# Profile Problems - WF-7110 & Cobra Inks



## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

Hi Everyone,

I've got a WF-7110 and Cobra Ink CIS set up and have been playing around with profiles for the last week. I'm excited to start offering sublimation. Problem is with printer profiles, maybe. I'm using Photoshop CS6 on a Mac. I also have a PC. My printer is refurbished direct from Epson.

I've tried probably about 30 different combinations to no avail. I pressed some. Others I could tell wouldn't work. My first problem was that white was printing out as yellow or cream. It mostly happens on the Premium Polyester shirt Matte profile. I tried changing my source (sRGB, Adobe 1998) but that didn't work. The polyester clothing plain paper setting was getting decent, but the blacks weren't dark enough (see pic #1). I tried on Photoshop CS6 on Mac, Corel Draw X7 on PC. Corel seems to have made things worse. The black wouldn't print at all(pic #2)! All the other colors looked great. I switched back to my Mac and the black was still very faded, or light (pic #1). 

I've attached a picture of the settings, both of what I used to get pic #3 to look like it did, and then the one setting where white comes out as yellow. I've also reset the preferences in Photoshop hoping that would work, but nothing.

What could it be? Printer? CIS installation? Profiles? Any help or guidance is much appreciated!


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## Ryan2420 (Dec 12, 2014)

Hello. I had the same problem with CIS. I found that Premium Presentation Paper on High Quality and choosing aluminum presentation as the profile works perfect for polyester sublimation. Before you print the image, make sure to save it, then reopen the file. You will see that the colors change as suppose to when using the profile. Make sure you use RGB color pallete.


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## ModernTreasures (Jul 9, 2014)

Probably your best bet is to call Richard at Cobra. I was having problems and had walked me right through it..


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

Found my problem. Read a thread on here that said yo you premium matte paper option in the print settings area of Photoshop. Once I changed it to ultra premium glossy everything was fantastic. I found I like the ultra aluminum profile best for my profile. I did a more colorful shirt and it was a little saturated, so I'll have to play around some more. Super excited to be on the right track though. Excited to get my mugs and try my mug press next!


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

Sstraley01 said:


> Probably your best bet is to call Richard at Cobra. I was having problems and had walked me right through it..


I have actually tried to text back and forth with Richard at Cobra, and his response to almost all of my questions was to watch the video. I am using Photoshop for most of my printing, and his video does not show how to set it up in Photoshop specifically so I was having some problems. I was able to eventually figure out all of the steps, especially what exactly the text about each file was for and how to use it. I am still having problems getting black blacks on aluminum dog tags, using the ICC profile provided by Cobra. I am new to sublimation, so I am not sure if you get significantly different results from different vendors products. I have gotten a few really black dog tags on a few that are white on one side, but not able to get the same results on tags with white on both sides. I am not sure exactly what I am doing wrong, but I do know that I am going through quite a bit of inventory trying to figure this out. Aloha


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## lvprinting (Sep 23, 2014)

There is a video on using ICC profiles in Photoshop on the Cobra ICC profiles website page. I watched it myself last week.

Sent from my SM-G900T using T-Shirt Forums


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

lvprinting said:


> There is a video on using ICC profiles in Photoshop on the Cobra ICC profiles website page. I watched it myself last week.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900T using T-Shirt Forums


Well then that is new to me. I purchased the CIS kit from them and the video that came with the kit did not show Photoshop, only Corel Draw. Is the video you watched for the Artisan 1430? Does it matter what printer you have when learning to install and choose the ICC profiles? When I checked there was only one video for the Epson Artisan 1430, and it did not have the Photoshop instructions. Anyhow, I have figured out that it is not the installing of the profiles that is my problem, but more the fine tuning of it, if that is possible, for the different substrates that I am pressing.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I am having the same issues, Epson updated their driver and I can't print reds, Richard has a new profile but that prints everything Brown. Business took a serious hit I know that.


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## superninja098 (Feb 24, 2015)

samconst said:


> I am having the same issues, Epson updated their driver and I can't print reds, Richard has a new profile but that prints everything Brown. Business took a serious hit I know that.


Delete the printer and install the drivers from the Epson website, they're dated 03/24/2014. Mine updated recently as well, but I found they don't update drivers listed on their website as fast.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

superninja098 said:


> Delete the printer and install the drivers from the Epson website, they're dated 03/24/2014. Mine updated recently as well, but I found they don't update drivers listed on their website as fast.


I did that on Friday, but will try again.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

samconst said:


> I did that on Friday, but will try again.


Still the same, I am doing mugs. I have no red! Help anyone?

The new Profile Richard made it worse.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> Still the same, I am doing mugs. I have no red! Help anyone?
> 
> The new Profile Richard made it worse.


 In your previous post a few up from here you mentioned Epson changed their driver.

That should have zero to do with your color. If you are setup correctly then your graphic application should be set to manage color, not the Epson driver. 

If fact in the Epson driver it should be set to "No Color Management"

What are you set to ? See the attached.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

mgparrish said:


> In your previous post a few up from here you mentioned Epson changed their driver.
> 
> That should have zero to do with your color. If you are setup correctly then your graphic application should be set to manage color, not the Epson driver.
> 
> ...


That seem like when it started, when I set my colors like that it turns my red grey. When I get time I will play with it and take pics. Thank you


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> That seem like when it started, when I set my colors like that it turns my red grey. When I get time I will play with it and take pics. Thank you


 
If you update your Epson driver it would likely revert back to defaults, so you must go back in and check all your settings and fix them.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

mgparrish said:


> If you update your Epson driver it would likely revert back to defaults, so you must go back in and check all your settings and fix them.


Yes I am very aware of that and have set everything according to Richards Video. Even tried the new profile he sent to me on Saturday.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> Yes I am very aware of that and have set everything according to Richards Video. Even tried the new profile he sent to me on Saturday.


I still think you have another issue going on. If you have turned off color managment in the Epson driver (as you should) then it should have nothing to do with your color issues. 

That's the whole point of having that setting, you control your color with your graphic app which applies the profile before the printer even sees the file.

I have the original driver on disk I can zip and send you. Did you also update firmware too? That might not be able to roll back.

Also, why don't you post your screen shots of:


1. Document color managment. (color workspace)
2. Print Preview panel
3. Epson driver settings.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

That was my plan, I have also. I did that but I have to go deeper. There turds in the Reg and folder that kept settings after the install. When I get time I need clean it up. I also have a fresh computer. Will keep all posted. And thank you


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

Not sure you can see this that good being on plain paper. This is what I am up against. Just a not when all this started new epson driver but also it was saying I was running low on ink. I think it was the first time it started pumping ink from the reserve tanks on the side. Maybe bad ink was shipped with the printer?? Note the first yellow, you can barely see it.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> Not sure you can see this that good being on plain paper. This is what I am up against. Just a not when all this started new epson driver but also it was saying I was running low on ink. I think it was the first time it started pumping ink from the reserve tanks on the side. Maybe bad ink was shipped with the printer?? Note the first yellow, you can barely see it.


Epson driver is OK, can you post your profile setting from your print preview?

Also, that paper with the color circles, it's just printed paper it appears, so I can't tell those colors until you actually heat transfer ....


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I will get you my profile setting from your my print preview this evening. I think i know what screen you are talking about. Also attached is a printed mug. Last week before I started having a problem the Pink part use to be a DEEP RED! I am using the same settings, nothing changed there but the color that that you see on this mug.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

As you see, it is like a hot pink. Should be a deep red. Also the problem only seems to be with Red.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> As you see, it is like a hot pink. Should be a deep red. Also the problem only seems to be with Red.


The black looked good on the mug so I think your temp/dwell was OK, but for color troubleshooting best to use a simple substrate like poly cloth that is cheap from Walmart or use some FRP or poly coated white AL. Mugs are more critical to get all the color correct so best to use something simple (and cheaper) to confirm that your color managment is correct first.

Also, you haven't mentioned what your graphic app is and your source colors are RGB?

Best to use a good test file to judge your color setup, Cobra has one on their site but this is the one I use ...

http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.zip

To use this your document color work space should be Adobe RGB 1998.

It has all the different variations of fleshtones, spot colors gradients etc. Using your own art files for your testing doesn't allow the entire profile to be seen all at once, and you also assume that your file doesn't have some problem, either with the embedded profile or your color selections. The PDI target file is a known good perfect color file.

The idea is that you start out with a graphic that is known good. Once you are finally setup correctly you can also use the target file again if suddenly your colors get whacked again and you can use your transferred poly cloth or flat FRP etc as a reference. 

Just print and press another target file and compare what you had before using the same file and settings, if everything is OK they should both look the same or very very close.

It is also a good file if you want to compare differences in profiles if you have more than 1, or to set different paper types and compare by printing and pressing on poly cloth and examining side by side.

Once you have your profile set good then you should also look at "swatching" in a vector program if you are not doing much photo work, and doing designs like the mug you show. 

You can dial in colors easily with swatches if you are in a vector program like Corel Draw.

If you want an easy to use screen capture program to post your screen shots the free version of Gadwin printscreen works well, and there is no adware or junk installed.

The Screen Capture Utility

http://www.gadwin.com/download/PrintScreen_Setup.zip


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

The thing is I am using the same paper I used last week before I had this problem last week. Coastal has great paper also. What I discovered was as soon as I moved away from Richards profile I get my red back. Just not as deep as it use to be. I am using Colormatch RGB! Other profiles are fine just not the one's from Cobra. This is strange


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> The thing is I am using the same paper I used last week before I had this problem last week. Coastal has great paper also. What I discovered was as soon as I moved away from Richards profile I get my red back. Just not as deep as it use to be. I am using Colormatch RGB! Other profiles are fine just not the one's from Cobra. This is strange


When I mentioned paper types this could include different brands _and_ different paper type settings (matte, plain, etc) settings in the Epson driver. This is not really related to your reds being off, just a mention of setting up in general.

You need to use a known good test photo and post here your graphic app settings and results transferred onto something (ie poly fabric) in order to help you better.

Are you on MAC? Why are you using Colormatch RGB?

No one I know sublimating uses Colormatch RGB as their color workspace.

Should be either Adobe RGB or sRGB. Most photos are in sRGB that others may give you, or some will be in the wider gamut Adobe RGB 1998.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I use the matte paper on High, like Richard suggested. I just picked the first setting then did a print preview and I was red so I tried it. Was just trying to get my deep red back. All other colors are fine that I can tell. I will try the two you was talking about this afternoon.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> I use the matte paper on High, like Richard suggested. I just picked the first setting then did a print preview and I was red so I tried it. Was just trying to get my deep red back. All other colors are fine that I can tell. I will try the two you was talking about this afternoon.


I think you are missing my points, your paper settings will only give you more or less_ saturation_. The _hue_ or _tint_ of your red is your problem, you are not setup correctly in terms of color management.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I am so sorry, I was doing two things at once and I missed the bottom half of that post! I will surely try and it and keep back to you! You have been a great help. Thank you


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

Oh and I use Adobe illustrator, I have Coral but not that good with it


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

Okay I darken the red but have yet to test it. I am still unsure I have my settings correct. Attached are a series of screen shots. Thank you for that program, also what paper would you suggest I use to print your test graphic?

Thank you for all your help,


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> Okay I darken the red but have yet to test it. I am still unsure I have my settings correct. Attached are a series of screen shots. Thank you for that program, also what paper would you suggest I use to print your test graphic?
> 
> Thank you for all your help,


OK your settings are incorrect, you are not selecting the Cobra profile in your Print settings screen. You have Adobe RGB 1998 there. I'm not sure if you are using RGB or not for your color fills, if not I attached a screen shot for that. 

_Desktop sublimation without a RIP use RGB colors only.
_
Note there are profiles used for different things.

1. Document profile (embedded ICC)
2. Workspace profile
3. Printer profile
4. Device profile (camera, scanner, etc).

The document or embedded profile is what exists inside your file so that the system can know what color space it uses. I honor the document profile when it comes in the graphic app so that when it is imported it isn't changed. "Honor thy profile" as it is said. I may change it later after I bring it in if it is a profile that is not sRGB or Adobe RGB 1998.

A good tutorial on that concept can be found at the link below. Note that the tutorial is for Photoshop, but AI's color management is virtual identical. The concepts are the same.

Assign Versus Convert to Profile Photoshop Color Management Tutorial AssignConvert CS6 CS5 CS4 CS3 CS2 PS 13 12 11 10

In our case of sublimation we use a special profile (from Cobra) to fix the ink colors, that is the printer profile and it is set in this case in the color management section of the print panel. It corrects the sublimation colors.

The workspace profile is just what the default workspace "container" is set to. If I were to compose from scratch that would be the default color space When my art is saved that becomes the document profile and what would be seen by the next program to open it, my program or someone else's program.

When I open a file then the settings for "Color Management Polices" "Profile Mis-matches" can change the workspace to the document profile if I choose. I "honor the profile" and then the workspace will become that of the documents embedded profile.

Having said all that ...

AI is not meant for cheap desktop printer output, it is designed for commercial printers which are largely postscript devices. 

You can get by if you are just doing line art and mostly vector work using AI, but if you want accurate color on photos on a desktop printer AI won't work accurately. _It won't print RGB color test files accurately no matter what you set to. That includes the PDI target file I sent you._

Even using my 8 color "pro" printer 4880 with Epson OEM pigment inks it will not print photos correctly, there is no setting or combinations of settings that can fix that.

For sublimating without a RIP or Powerdriver then Corel Draw works better in terms of more accurate color with cheap desktop printers.

I have AI in CS6 and use it for sending art out to professional print companies or to convert files given me, but for sublimation and photo work I use CD and PS. I would like to divorce CD and only use but AI but I can't. AI is a better program overall, and less buggy, but it is what it is printing to non postscript printers.

Both Adobe and Epson advise against using AI without a RIP or postscript device.

If you are only doing vector and only want to use AI then swatching is your best practice. See the webpage here and you can download RGB swatches there as well.

http://www.multirip.com/colormanagement.html

Once you are setup as good as you can suggest to print and press some color swatches. If you have some chipped or otherwise defect mugs but can be pressed otherwise you can use those for your swatch references in addition to using poly fabric.



See the attached screens for AI.


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

Sorry it took so long getting back, I did most of what you said but I cannot use the Cobra profiles. Throws my color way out of wack on both my computers. Just learning to cope. I know Cobra is one of the best but I regret buying this printer


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

samconst said:


> Sorry it took so long getting back, I did most of what you said but I cannot use the Cobra profiles. Throws my color way out of wack on both my computers. Just learning to cope. I know Cobra is one of the best but I regret buying this printer


Going back to what I said about AI.

Color issues in AI with desktop printers are not correctable without a RIP. this is not just a Cobra sublimation issues, it happens with OEM inks and Artanium inks I used to use. 

Sawgrass Powerdriver might work better since it is a printer driver "middleman". But it won't work well with Cobra inks of course.

I have a 8 color pro 4880 printer and when using Epson OEM pigment inks in it before I switched to Cobra's pigments I could never get correct accurate color using bitmaps/photos in AI.

Here is what Epson states on the subject ..

Support & Downloads - Epson Stylus Photo PX710W - Epson

"I want to print from postscript-heavy applications such as InDesign, *Illustrator* and Quark Xpress. Do I need a RIP or Postscript printer driver?

Epson inkjet printers are RGB devices, designed to process and print RGB data from other RGB devices and applications.You will require a Postscript printer driver or 'RIP' in order to print CMYK data or have access to all printing features when using Postscript-heavy applications such as InDesign and QuarkXPress. Even printing basic files from such applications can result in print quality issues, so for documents that don't contain Postscript data we recommend printing from a standard office suite or word processing software.

If you're printing photos, why not try the photo printing software supplied with your printer or another photo processing application."

Here is what Adobe states on the subject ...

https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/kb/troubleshoot-problems-printing-non-postscript.html

"Adobe Illustrator is optimized for PostScript printing. In fact, many of the Illustrator advanced features can only be described using the PostScript page description language. Non PostScript printers (for example, Hewlett-Packard LaserJets, Canon BubbleJets, or Epson Stylus) use printer description languages that are not full programming languages (for example, PCL or QuickDraw) and are unable to describe all of the objects and attributes in Illustrator artwork. Most non PostScript printers rely on display information, host computer resources, and proprietary printer drivers to relay print information to the printer.

When you print from Illustrator to a non PostScript printer, objects may not print, or may print incorrectly. The behavior may vary with different printers and with different versions of the printer software."

I have AI as it is included in Creative Suite. I would prefer to be able to use that vs. Corel Draw, but I can't use it for any accurate color output on my non-postscript printers I have, regular inks or sub inks.

It's not a question of dialing in settings in AI, I can get very good color sublimating or regular printing in Photoshop and Corel, which are really designed to work better on non-postscript printers.

If you prefer to compose in AI you might try to export out in tiff format and then and use a program like Photoshop to print, make sure you embed a RGB profile when you export, such as Adobe RGB 1998.

The other thing is that if you use swatches like shown in the link I provided then there should be no problem to get accurate color within the gamut capability of your inks, you are really forcing the issue this way. 

You use known reference colors that are heat transfered in advance so you know where the colors end up based on RGB numbers. Think of it like "coloring by numbers" like you were using a kids painting kit. 

Vector programs this method is fairly easy since each object it is easy to change object fill properties by setting RGB value numbers. Looks like much of your work is vector based.


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## HandyImpressions (Mar 25, 2015)

Can't you just take files from AI and import them into PS and print from there?


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I have both PS and Corel, just don't know it as well. I guess when time permits I am going to have to force myself to use them. As always Richard along with you guys have been a great help. I'm old school and takes things longer to sink in. 

I am nowhere near ready to give up, I an convinced the biggest problem is user error.


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## Armystarks31 (Mar 2, 2017)

Hey guys I recently purchased wf7110 pigmentation ink printer from cobra my colors are completely off I've installed they're profiles but the colors suck when pressed to shirt blacks are faded grey what to do next I can't sell this stuff...please help


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

Armystarks31 said:


> Hey guys I recently purchased wf7110 pigmentation ink printer from cobra my colors are completely off I've installed they're profiles but the colors suck when pressed to shirt blacks are faded grey what to do next I can't sell this stuff...please help


In almost every instance one is not using the ICC profile correctly. I recommend getting the newest profile and making sure you set it up properly. 

I recently learned Epson started hiding a setting in most new printers. It is a box that must be checked that states allow applications to perform ICM color matching. Without checking this box you can do everything else correctly including choosing the no color management within the printer dialog and it still doesn't work properly with ICC profile. I know on the 1430 it's in the maintenance tab then click speed and progress. 

I am not currently doing heat transfers or sublimation but I do use profiles for photo printing and canvas paper/pigment inks and without checking the box the colors are off.


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## Armystarks31 (Mar 2, 2017)

Ok I will look that up thanks


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

sben763 said:


> In almost every instance one is not using the ICC profile correctly. I recommend getting the newest profile and making sure you set it up properly.
> 
> I recently learned Epson started hiding a setting in most new printers. It is a box that must be checked that states allow applications to perform ICM color matching. Without checking this box you can do everything else correctly including choosing the no color management within the printer dialog and it still doesn't work properly with ICC profile. I know on the 1430 it's in the maintenance tab then click speed and progress.
> 
> I am not currently doing heat transfers or sublimation but I do use profiles for photo printing and canvas paper/pigment inks and without checking the box the colors are off.


Very good point, if you don't disable color management in the Epson driver then you have the graphic app managing color and going thru an ICC then the printer driver runs it through another profile embedded in the driver.

So you end up printing with a "double profile".


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## Armystarks31 (Mar 2, 2017)

I've looked over the printer and tried everything you guys recommended maybe I'm not seeing the icc setup


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Armystarks31 said:


> I've looked over the printer and tried everything you guys recommended maybe I'm not seeing the icc setup


Please advise on what you are using for your graphics program.

Also, there is a readme.txt or similar file Cobra provides to tell you which profile is for what substrate and the respective "quality", "paper type" and paper brand to use.

Your Epson settings to turn off color management in the driver is attached here. These screens are from a guide for Corel Draw I made but are only the section for the Epson driver so it will work for any graphics app.

You should get some white 100% polyester fabric (sold in rolls) at Walmart or JoAnn fabric for your testing. The fabric is cheap and saves you from using up so many blanks.

I recommend this file for your testing, it is a perfect test photo and doesn't need adjusting, best not to use random artwork for your initial setup.

http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.zip


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## Armystarks31 (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks in advance ... I'm using Ai with my mac I've followed the setup routine with cobra ink cp650 pigmentation ink ...the paper I'm using is paropy light transfer paper I have opaque also I've tried every profile that cobra has sent and I've notice the colors have changed on each different profile not one laid the correct amount ink and the blacks continue to seem very light ...I will go thru the setup again and make sure the setting are right but thank you all for the help ....


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

mgparrish said:


> Very good point, if you don't disable color management in the Epson driver then you have the graphic app managing color and going thru an ICC then the printer driver runs it through another profile embedded in the driver.
> 
> So you end up printing with a "double profile".


Does the 7110 have the speed and progress box in the maintenance tab? I used the 1400 for sublimation, canvas, heat transfer and never a problem. Used 3 printers. Got the 1430 and for months I couldn't get anything to print properly. Sawgrass, cobra, the place I get my pigment and canvas that provides a ICC for their ink and paper couldn't get it help to get it to print correct. I was looking around on day found that box and now the canvas prints perfect. I'm going to get new sublimation ink as it went bad so I can't test sublimation.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Armystarks31 said:


> Thanks in advance ... I'm using Ai with my mac I've followed the setup routine with cobra ink cp650 pigmentation ink ...the paper I'm using is paropy light transfer paper I have opaque also I've tried every profile that cobra has sent and I've notice the colors have changed on each different profile not one laid the correct amount ink and the blacks continue to seem very light ...I will go thru the setup again and make sure the setting are right but thank you all for the help ....


I don't use Mac but I do have AI, PS and Corel Draw.

I have never ever been able to get good colors in AI with either pigment inks or sublimation.

After doing research years back I learned from both Adobe and Epson that AI is designed for CMYK Postscript output and has unpredictable results when printing to a Non-Postscript printer or when not using a RIP software that can handle CMYK input. We work in RGB and those Cobra profiles are RGB profiles.

What happens is that while ink jets may have CMYK carts they are still expecting RGB input, and the the CMYK conversion is done automatically without any intervention.

Using both pigment and sublimation RGB profiles in either PS or Corel Draw I can get good color, but using the same test file (like I linked to) no matter what I did in AI it is off color always. So I never use AI unless I am getting AI or EPS files from a customer and I convert them to a format that Corel Draw likes. Or if I am sending out for commercial printing output I sometimes send files from AI.

https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/kb/troubleshoot-problems-printing-non-postscript.html

****************************************
"Adobe Illustrator is optimized for PostScript printing. In fact, many of the Illustrator advanced features can only be described using the PostScript page description language. Non PostScript printers (for example, Hewlett-Packard LaserJets, Canon BubbleJets, or Epson Stylus) use printer description languages that are not full programming languages (for example, PCL or QuickDraw) and are unable to describe all of the objects and attributes in Illustrator artwork. Most non PostScript printers rely on display information, host computer resources, and proprietary printer drivers to relay print information to the printer.

When you print from Illustrator to a non PostScript printer, objects may not print, or may print incorrectly. The behavior may vary with different printers and with different versions of the printer software. "
**********************************

https://www.epson.co.uk/viewcon/corporatesite/products/mainunits/faq/4398/59

***********************************
"I want to print from postscript-heavy applications such as InDesign, *Illustrator* and Quark Xpress. Do I need a RIP or Postscript printer driver?

RELATES TO:
Postscript printing
CYMK printing
DTP, Proofing
EXPLANATION:

Epson inkjet printers are RGB devices, designed to process and print RGB data from other RGB devices and applications.You will require a Postscript printer driver or 'RIP' in order to print CMYK data or have access to all printing features when using Postscript-heavy applications such as InDesign and QuarkXPress. Even printing basic files from such applications can result in *print quality issues*, so for documents that don't contain Postscript data we recommend printing from a standard office suite or word processing software.

If you're printing photos, why not try the photo printing software supplied with your printer or another photo processing application.

If you are trying to print CMYK data, an alternative is to convert the file(s) to a standard format - for photos we recommend a JPG or TIFF (RGB encoded) file which the printer will be able to print."
**************************************

There is a lot more on this subject if you search from others in the industry.

If you have another graphic app like PS or Corel Draw if you keep the AI workspace and objects in RGB and then export out in a RGB bitmap format like .tif you can try to print from PS with the file you exported out in RGB tif format. This allows you to avoid the non-postscript printer to directly print from AI.


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## Armystarks31 (Mar 2, 2017)

Wow thank you a lot of info and I do have photoshop I'm gonna study more of what you said still learning everyday ...thank you for the advice


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

sben763 said:


> Does the 7110 have the speed and progress box in the maintenance tab? I used the 1400 for sublimation, canvas, heat transfer and never a problem. Used 3 printers. Got the 1430 and for months I couldn't get anything to print properly. Sawgrass, cobra, the place I get my pigment and canvas that provides a ICC for their ink and paper couldn't get it help to get it to print correct. I was looking around on day found that box and now the canvas prints perfect. I'm going to get new sublimation ink as it went bad so I can't test sublimation.


Yes the 7110 has the "High Speed" option, as do most Epsons.

See the attached ... 

Sometimes turning it off solves problems.


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## lilsuz (Oct 16, 2007)

mgparrish,

Thank you for all of the time and care you put into answering questions!


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## samconst (Feb 23, 2007)

I am ready to toss mine in the trash, not worth the time or money! Most likely no good anyway, we have not used it in over a year. Constant color problems. 
I have a few Sawgrass Virtuoso's, cost a little more to print but well worth it.


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