# Appropriate heatpress size for tshirt print



## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Ok,
I know the answer to the question "whats the best...." that's not what I need.

I am only printing A4 (legal - ish) sized images onto the front or back of t-shirts. The target customer base (UK equestrian market) usually deals in XS, S,M and L sizes and 85% female garments.

Now I'm happy to pay a good price for a Stahl press so that I can guarantee edge to edge temp control for the biggest of prints and general build quality. But do I really need anything bigger than a 28x38 cm (12x15 inch) press? The difference is double the price for the 15x15...

Am I missing any other reason to go BIG?

Cheers

SK


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Come on guys... it's been 17 minutes,
I was hoping to pull the trigger on this enterprise in the next 9-15 months so I was expecting an answer a little sooner....


Sorry, I was bored....

SK


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## akar (Jul 1, 2011)

Only if you want to expand your market to do hoodies, mens shirts and other things requiring a large image. It's better to have and not need than to need and not have...


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## dougie54 (Jul 28, 2010)

I first thought that too. But I realized after I got into screen printing that I was going to some vinyl on shirts and uniforms. I bit the bullet and bought an air fusion Hotronics on a stand. It is a 16 X 20 area and it has paid for itself in having a large work area and being able to dress the shirt.


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## idonaldson (Sep 29, 2008)

Buy the small one, make money and then buy a larger one when the same audience would like apparel to match the other. Then you will soon see, the market for a used press is limited, and you might not have room for two presses. The Stahls presses provide the even temperature and they last a very long time.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

idonaldson said:


> Then you will soon see, the market for a used press is limited.


Ahh see I was hoping that would be the kicker- selling the decent smaller one and getting a good return.... 

Ok, so it's all about flexability and adaptability in your market segment then? That's ok, at least I've not left anything out and can get on with making an informed decision..

Cheers all


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## EricDeem (May 7, 2011)

Buy the best/largest heat press your budget allows. 16x20 auto clam would be recommendation. Stick with either Stahls or GeoKnight presses.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Dekay317 said:


> Buy the best/largest heat press your budget allows. 16x20 auto clam would be recommendation. Stick with either Stahls or GeoKnight presses.


 Preaching to the converted there!

I WOULD ALWAYS AGREE WITH THE ABOVE. Buy once, buy best..

BUT...

I have 5 designs I want to market over 3 styles of shirt. I'm limiting the market to create desire etc and focus the business.. 

£500/$800 which is the difference between the two press sizes is a helluva lotta blank stock or ink.....

Any thoughts or am I really wide of the mark? Cheers though Dekay, sage advice....


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## jennGO (Mar 11, 2014)

I have an 11x15 and I already want a bigger press. I enlarge my designs for 2XL and I can barely fit the design on there. Can't sell 3XLs because I know they won't fit. I've been selling a lot of 2XLs lately...

Bigger is better. 

Look at the resale value to console yourself. Find out how much you can recoup if you crash and burn


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## TeeBird100 (Apr 13, 2015)

I started with an 15x15 as it let me get going quickly and cheaply. It will be a backup or overflow heat press once we hit our first cash flow number and get the 16x20 GK press. 

Starting on a budget, limiting some of ones exposure, is not a bad move. But you need to have a plan for getting to where you have long term reliable equipment.


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## gatorGRAFIX (Mar 11, 2015)

Buying a heat press is like buying a muscle car with a factory hot rod motor in it. The bigger you can get the better off you are!

I have two 16"X20" GeoKnight DK20A auto clamshell heat presses that I bought from EquipmentZone for my DTG, airbrush t-shirts and vinyl cut stuff. I couldn't be happier. "One hit, that's it".


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## akar (Jul 1, 2011)

We have a 16x20 air automatic press and a small, 12x12 press. We almost always use the larger press, even for kids shirts because the heat is more even and its easier to use. I'm really glad that we have that larger press because I can always say, "Yes. We can do that." I agree with those who suggest a 16x20. It's able to do everything and will pay for itself in no time. Thinking in terms of ROI it makes much more sense to get something that will turn over more jobs. IMHO the small press is very limited, the large one opens doors...


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## Keenworth (Jun 25, 2015)

Personally, I would recommend an A3 size heat press machine and a STAHL heat press machine has good quality.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

akar said:


> ... because the heat is more even and its easier to use....


Now this is what's concerning me, and why i'm asking.... Does even the better Stahl and GK's guarantee edge to edge heat that the cheaper ones don't? 

Ok, changing the goal posts a bit - and just me playing devils advocate...

If you could ONLY budget for a smaller BETTER press or a bigger INFERIOR press would we still go big?

cheers

SK


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## Keenworth (Jun 25, 2015)

Why you should invest of a good heat press machine?

1. Uneven heat distribution will cause your problems with cold spots.
2. Often times, you have to increase your temperature more than its standard temperature to compensate for lack of heating element.

But if you can manage just alright with cold spots and increasing temperature, then there's not much concerns with cheaper heat press machines.


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## gatorGRAFIX (Mar 11, 2015)

mediahound films said:


> Now this is what's concerning me, and why i'm asking.... Does even the better Stahl and GK's guarantee edge to edge heat that the cheaper ones don't?
> 
> Ok, changing the goal posts a bit - and just me playing devils advocate...
> 
> ...


Well, in this world I have found that most of the time even when you do your homework, you get what you pay for.


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## akar (Jul 1, 2011)

Personally, I would save up for the 16x20 press, or even borrow the "overage" because it will return your investment faster, last longer and open you up to jobs that you'd have to pass on with the smaller one. Once people find out you can make shirts then somebody, at some point, will want hoodies, 2X and 3X shirts, etc. Might as well get the right press the first time rather than struggle with a small press and then spend more money to get a bigger one in the future. The large press can do everything that the small press can do and more but the small press is very limiting.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

akar said:


> The large press can do everything that the small press can do and more but the small press is very limiting.


that's exactly what it boils down to, really, isn't it.... cheers akar, probably not what I WANTED to hear, but exactly what I NEEDED to hear...

SK


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## complnr (Mar 28, 2015)

if you are doing sublimation than the paper you use needs to be bigger than the press so you do not get paper lines on the shirt.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

complnr said:


> if you are doing sublimation than the paper you use needs to be bigger than the press so you do not get paper lines on the shirt.


confused now.... if I'm only doing A4 (8.5x11.5) images, then I need a SMALLER press to stop the paper edges showing? Or are you saying I need to print it on A3 paper and let it hang over the edge of a press smaller than the paper?

Doesn't the pressure used stop the paper marking?

SK


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## complnr (Mar 28, 2015)

I was using a 16x20 press and had paper lines on every shirt, they went to the 11x15 press and used 13x19 paper so the edges hang over.


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## EricDeem (May 7, 2011)

The other thing to consider is that you can always put a smaller lower platen on a 16x20 heat press but you can't really go the other way.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

complnr said:


> I was using a 16x20 press and had paper lines on every shirt, they went to the 11x15 press and used 13x19 paper so the edges hang over.


so is this this the only way to stop paper marks? Is an A4 printer useless for t shirt images?

SK


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## tippy (May 27, 2014)

mediahound films said:


> so is this this the only way to stop paper marks? Is an A4 printer useless for t shirt images?
> 
> SK


It is definitely the easiest way, but not necessarily the only way. 

My paper isn't larger than my press, and after LOTS of testing with different pressure and foam height, I am able to sub without leaving a mark on the shirts.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

tippy said:


> It is definitely the easiest way, but not necessarily the only way.


interesting.. is it the combination of time, pressure and heat or just pressure??

Thanks Tippy, what sizes of press\printer are you running? Or in general anyone... 

I can afford to go to a Stahl 15x15 and A3 printer but that will be my budget limit or I wont have any margin for blanks... and I'm gonna need to practice, ain't I.....!!


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## tippy (May 27, 2014)

I have a 15" x 15" press and the max paper size I can print is 11 x 17.

Time, temperature and pressure are the 3 variables. You need to find the perfect combination for everything you print flawlessly. Also, not all sublimation/polyester t-shirts are the same. Some brands are much more forgiving. The 'silky' shirts require tinkering with the 3 variables as well as placing your tongue in the corner of your mouth just the right way. The 'cotton feel' shirts (usually) don't require proper tongue placement.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Right ok,

So lets assume you have an image that is rectangular and coloured to the borders...

If I cut the paper to the boarder will there still be a paper mark or should it blend in with the image?
Is this a tried and tested method or not used because of x,y,z reasons...??

Cheers, am meeting my blank supplier for some trials next week and will be talking printers and presses too..

Thanks for all the help chaps and chapesses...

SK


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## tippy (May 27, 2014)

Do a youtube search for "sublimation foam". The trick to eliminating paper edge marks is to have the paper larger than the foam.

I suppose you could cut the paper to the exact size and shape of the image. The edges would be pressed into the fabric, but the dye would cause distraction so you may not notice the press line. I don't know....I haven't tried this.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Cheers Tipp i'll search that out...

Looks like i'll be going down the A3 printer and 15x15 press route anyway but any lessons learned is great...
SK


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

Interesting films on sub foam... Google search shows ads for Vapour foam, ONLY for Vapour apparel... so it can't be used with other garments?

Have found a thread on UK suppliers of 12mm silicone sponge as it appears you can't get Vapor foam over here!

SK


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## tippy (May 27, 2014)

You can use the Vapor foam with any apparel brand. 

Any foam that can take the heat will work. I got mine at a local Foam Shop but they also have it at fabric stores. The stuff I use is 13 mm thick.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

tippy said:


> You can use the Vapor foam with any apparel brand.
> 
> Any foam that can take the heat will work. I got mine at a local Foam Shop but they also have it at fabric stores. The stuff I use is 13 mm thick.


cheers for that... i'll get onto it as soon as the kit starts arriving.... really appreciate that pointer!

SK


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## akar (Jul 1, 2011)

We always use Vapor foam. With the foam you don't have to print on large pieces of paper. Sometimes we even tear the paper around the image so that it doesn't have any straight lines to leave that "creased" look (like when we're doing left chest prints).


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

akar said:


> We always use Vapor foam. With the foam you don't have to print on large pieces of paper. Sometimes we even tear the paper around the image so that it doesn't have any straight lines to leave that "creased" look (like when we're doing left chest prints).


 Yeah, I saw that talked about in the Sawgrass/Conde youtube video on 5 common problems....

Now I've seen both dressing the t-shirt over the lower platen and putting the foam IN the tshirt and also just laying the tshirt OVER the foam... whats everyones' preference?

SK


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## Kevb (Apr 29, 2014)

mediahound films said:


> Yeah, I saw that talked about in the Sawgrass/Conde youtube video on 5 common problems....
> 
> Now I've seen both dressing the t-shirt over the lower platen and putting the foam IN the tshirt and also just laying the tshirt OVER the foam... whats everyones' preference?
> 
> SK


I can thread (dress) shirts over my 15x15 press. After adjusting the pressure for the foam, I like to put the foam underneath the lower platen teflon cover. That holds the foam in place so that I can keep pressing without moving the foam each time. If you can't thread, I would put the foam in between the layers of the shirt, to avoid creasing and possible ink bleed onto the lower layer. Good luck!


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## akar (Jul 1, 2011)

Shirts that are large enough to fit over the platen we put over the platen. Once we have the "spot" for the foam we tape it down from underneath with heat tape then carefully place each shirt on the platen. Small shirts (even though we have a small press) we usually still use the big press and just put the foam in the desired spot - which is much more time consuming than having the foam in place on the platen. We just do whatever works best for the job we're doing at the time.


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## mediahound films (Jun 9, 2015)

So horses for courses then... makes sense...

Interesting thread, so thanks for all the fantastic advice..

SK


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