# Epson Artisan 1430 and CISS problems.



## Eie8631 (Jan 12, 2016)

Hello. I'm a sublimation newbie. I just purchased an Epson Artisan 1430. I also purchased the XPRO IV series True Color SUBLIMATION INK T79 Ciss Continuous Ink Supply System for Epson Artisan 1430, 1400 Printers (For Sublimation printing only)
From INKXPRO.COM

I followed ALL of the instructions for installation on both the printer and the CISS, even primed all the inks. I printed my first sample from Silhoette and it was horrible. Too red, lots of lines and bands. I dont currently have adobe Illustrator or Photoshop. I did 2 head cleanings and a nozzle check. There are breaks in 2 seperate colors. Not sure where to go from here. I was told that this CISS system does not require a color profile. I don't know what to do. Help!!?? I tried to attach a pic but I couldn't get it to work.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

I will share a couple of thoughts. 

First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.

Second thought, you cannot print from the silhouette software with a color profile so you are going to be out of luck there. I assume you are using it because you want to do a print and cut? If not then it is just a test? If you are trying to do a print and cut, there really is no reason to with sublimation. Only the ink transfers so you won't end up with a 8.5 x 11 white space with a print in the middle. If you are just doing it to test, do not expect the colors to be right. You will have to either buy Photoshop or Corel or download Gimp for *FREE*. Gimp is super powerful for a free graphics package and you can use color profiles. I have never done it so I cannot promise the outcome will be what you want but it is going to be better than what you get from anything that does not do profiles like Silhouette. 

Next, what you see on paper is not what you will see on your final press. It will look faded and the colors will look all wrong. Do not judge the print until you have pressed it. 

Next, is your printer set up correctly? In your printer setup, you need to choose Premium Presentation Matte Paper, and set quality to Photo. Once you can print with profiles, you want to turn color management to ICM and Off. That will make sense once you see it. 

Next, if you are getting voids in your nozzle checks, you probably still have air in the system. If it is a new setup, there should be no dried ink in the print head so I would not expect that to be a problem. Try priming your cartridges again. You may have to do many head cleanings to get it flush out correctly. Another option is to buy Printer Jockey which allows you to flush individual channels. If you go this route, be careful not to set the flush to anything over 720dpi or it will make an inky mess of your printer. I use this all the time on my Eco-solvent setup but have rarely had to use it on my dye sub process. 

And last, I have profiles for the 1430 and can send them to you if you need them. They are not for your inks but they will more than likely work.


----------



## itscody (Mar 26, 2016)

I was using the 1430 and a ciss setup. Wasted so much money trying to get things right. I gave up and bought a sg800 setup. Since very little waste and finally recouping some of my initial loss.


----------



## Nitrox73 (Apr 27, 2015)

I bought a 1430 with Cobra dye sub ink. I'm on my last leg with it. We've been through all their settings, color profiles, and videos. I've wasted a ton of money for half-*** results. None of our colors come out even close.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

I am personally not a fan of CIS. I had one on my eco-solvent printer and it caused me lots of grief with air in the lines. Eventually the Cyan clogged completely in the line and the rest of them got super brittle. I took them out and went to refillables and never looked back. When I went purchased my sub setup, I went straight to refillables and have not had any problems with it. I use an Epson 1400 with Chinese inks and the Cobra profiles.


----------



## itscody (Mar 26, 2016)

I haven't seen many people post good results with ciss. I'm glad I did a way with it.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

One of the very first things I did when I got my system set up was take a bunch of poly cloth called peachskin that takes color very well. I printed the same small image with every profile selection and pressed it onto a piece of the peachskin. I figured out pretty quickly that some of the profiles were way off and the others were really close. So I selected one that was close for me and I use it for everything. I never change regardless of the substrate. In hindsight I wish I ha used one of those color profiling images you can find on the google box but my method worked for me. I am not doing fine reproduction work and close enough works for me. If it ever came down to needing perfect colors or skin tones, I might change my methods but for now I can do everything I need to do with the one profile. 

Like many others, I printed several sheets stressing over how bad the prints looked until I realized that I had to press them to see real results. I am sure this is something that catches many first-timers and although not likely the case for some of you above, every time I read of a new setup not producing the expected colors, that is one of the first things I wonder about. Are they actually pressing or just looking at the prints?


----------



## itscody (Mar 26, 2016)

Sacman said:


> One of the very first things I did when I got my system set up was take a bunch of poly cloth called peachskin that takes color very well. I printed the same small image with every profile selection and pressed it onto a piece of the peachskin. I figured out pretty quickly that some of the profiles were way off and the others were really close. So I selected one that was close for me and I use it for everything. I never change regardless of the substrate. In hindsight I wish I ha used one of those color profiling images you can find on the google box but my method worked for me. I am not doing fine reproduction work and close enough works for me. If it ever came down to needing perfect colors or skin tones, I might change my methods but for now I can do everything I need to do with the one profile.
> 
> Like many others, I printed several sheets stressing over how bad the prints looked until I realized that I had to press them to see real results. I am sure this is something that catches many first-timers and although not likely the case for some of you above, every time I read of a new setup not producing the expected colors, that is one of the first things I wonder about. Are they actually pressing or just looking at the prints?


I also wasn't pressing at first. I use Mac. So for the ciss system I purchased. They didn't have a icc profile that was supported at the time. I wasn't able to get results even somewhat close when pressed.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

One more thought to share with the OP. I forget about this since it has been so long, but make sure you remove the vent caps from your CIS tanks. If you don't you will never get proper ink flow to the cartridges. I'm sure this was in the setup instructions but just in case. If you do not remove the vent caps, the system is effectively vacuum locked and will not flow.


----------



## Eie8631 (Jan 12, 2016)

Thank you so much for all that great information! As far as silhouette, I was hoping to do some design printing from there but I'm not too hopefull as it hasn't gone too well so far. I plan on purchasing either photoshop or adobe illustrator but I'm hesitant now after spending so much on these inks and CIS system and it not working too great so far. I would definately love that icc if you wouldn't mind sharing! Thank you so much. If I can get these inks to print half decent, I would like to use them and then change to sublijet or cobra if I need to. Where is a good place for blank tees Affordable yet with a soft feel.


----------



## Eie8631 (Jan 12, 2016)

Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...



I would love those profiles if you wouldn't mind sharing. I'm so anxious to get this to work for me. Another question.... what would you recommend I use for practice printing? I've used a couple of shirts but this is gonna get expensive quick.. lol


----------



## Eie8631 (Jan 12, 2016)

Sacman said:


> I am personally not a fan of CIS. I had one on my eco-solvent printer and it caused me lots of grief with air in the lines. Eventually the Cyan clogged completely in the line and the rest of them got super brittle. I took them out and went to refillables and never looked back. When I went purchased my sub setup, I went straight to refillables and have not had any problems with it. I use an Epson 1400 with Chinese inks and the Cobra profiles.


Where did you buy your refillables?


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

PM your email address and I will send you the profiles via email. 

I got the cartridges off of eBay. This is the exact item and seller : Refillable Ink Cartridges Empty 79 for Epson Stylus Photo 1400 1410 1430 Printer | eBay

You don't have to buy new ink if you go this route, just use a syringe to pull ink out of the tanks you already have. If you go to refillables, don't forget to pull the vent plug!!!

Go to the Gimp link I posted earlier. It is completely free and while not quite as powerful as Photoshop, it is amazing for what you pay which is nothing. You can use color profiles with it just look it up. I tested it that day and while I didn't do a print comparison, I was able to set up the profiles. 

For testing, find a fabric store and buy some fabric. I use a material called Peachskin which is 100% poly and takes color very well. You can also get Satin. All satin is 100% poly and it takes color very well but typically has a shine to it that may not exactly mimic a t-shirt. You can do small prints or larger ones, it's your choice. What I did was load a piece of paper and print an image using one setup. Reload the same paper and move the image and print with another setup etc... I only wasted a couple of pieces of paper this way. Using fabric this way will get you really close and at least help you decide which profile works with fabric in general. Like I said earlier, I chose one profile and use it for everything. Maybe not the best way but hasn't caused me any grief so far.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> PM your email address and I will send you the profiles via email.
> 
> I got the cartridges off of eBay. This is the exact item and seller : Refillable Ink Cartridges Empty 79 for Epson Stylus Photo 1400 1410 1430 Printer | eBay
> 
> ...


From looking at your eBay link. it looks like your 1400 uses the same carts as my Epson Stylus Photo P50.

BTW what color Peachskin fabric you you use for your tests? Seems like this fabric is fairly expensive. Wouldn't it be cheaper to use a blank t-shirt for tests?


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

GILSAN said:


> BTW what color Peachskin fabric you you use for your tests? Seems like this fabric is fairly expensive. Wouldn't it be cheaper to use a blank t-shirt for tests?


I get the white and it is something like $10.00/yard but you can stack coupons at Joann's so I rarely pay more than about $5.00/yard. That is a whole lot easier to get and cut into manageable pieces than a 100% poly shirt is in my opinion.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> I get the white and it is something like $10.00/yard but you can stack coupons at Joann's so I rarely pay more than about $5.00/yard. That is a whole lot easier to get and cut into manageable pieces than a 100% poly shirt is in my opinion.


Oh I see, so you only test on poly material? Not on 100% cotton? What is the advantage?


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

I'm confused. Dye sub only works on polyester so of course I only use polyester and 100% polyester at that. Using a 100% cotton fabric to test profiles would be a complete waste of time. Arguably it will temporarily stain the fabric but cotton does not respond the same as poly so yeah ... I'm confused.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> I'm confused. Dye sub only works on polyester so of course I only use polyester and 100% polyester at that. Using a 100% cotton fabric to test profiles would be a complete waste of time. Arguably it will temporarily stain the fabric but cotton does not respond the same as poly so yeah ... I'm confused.


Sorry about that Wade. For some reason I was under the impression you where using it for t-shirts printing and thus the reason for mentioning cotton.

Besides Peachskin fabric and silk, are there any other materials you can recommend for Dye Sub tests?


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

Any kind of satin. Even cheap costume satin works and it is surprisingly cheap. The only drawback to typical satin is that it will have a high sheen to it. That make for super bright and vibrant prints but may set your expectations a little too high when you go to print on regular not shiny fabrics. 

There is a canvas that is 100% poly but it is fairly expensive and i can never find plain white in a fabric store. There are also some suiting materials that are 100% fabric but are often textured which I try to avoid for testing. The peachskin has so many advantages to it in that it is a clean white color with no texture and will take a print very well. 

What I have done is go into the fabric store and wander the aisles and look at anything that is white. I check it for texture and then look at the tag to see what it is made of. I have gotten pretty good at telling when something is poly or cotton. 

All fleece materials are poly but there is a problem associated with them that do not make them good test materials. Even the finest fleece has some nap to it which will be flattened when you press. This 'fluffiness' rarely gets 100 percent covered by ink so when you fluff it back out, it will look much more faded than you think because you will be seeing some of the white fibers as well. 

The only other one I can think of off hand is suede. There is a super fine white microsuede that you can get in fabric stores in white. It suffers the same as fleece though not as bad. There is another thread on here somewhere recently where we were talking about the problems with suede. 

There is one more fabric that I am sure of called microfiber. It is the material typically used in mens board shorts. This is usually only available on line and harder to find in pure white than in other colors. I have considered buying some to play around with and make myself some board shorts but haven't yet. 

I'm sure there are others but that is what I can think of right off.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Wow!... that's a lot of great info. Many thanks. Since I'd never heard about Peachskin Fabric until you mentioned it tonight, I have a problem at the moment; I have no idea what it's called in my own language. My English-Portuguese dictionary does not have that word, so I'm gonna have to do some research in translations, perhaps in Spanish or Italian and maybe it'll get me there.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

A little more digging on the google box shows that Peachskin is a sueded microfiber. The sueding is very fine though, not what you think of with normal suede material. 

Look up microfiber or its equivalent and see what pops. You might have to spell it in that weird Queens English way with the 'r' before the 'e' as in fibre.

Hope that helps except I'm afraid you are going to get a lot of results for those car washing towels.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> A little more digging on the google box shows that Peachskin is a sueded microfiber. The sueding is very fine though, not what you think of with normal suede material.
> 
> Look up microfiber or its equivalent and see what pops. You might have to spell it in that weird Queens English way with the 'r' before the 'e' as in fibre.
> 
> Hope that helps except I'm afraid you are going to get a lot of results for those car washing towels.


Thanks Wade... that additional info will probably help, but I'm gonna leave it for tomorrow as it's already after 4 in the morning here and my bed is calling for me. 

How time flies when one is learning new stuff!


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> A little more digging on the google box shows that Peachskin is a sueded microfiber. The sueding is very fine though, not what you think of with normal suede material.
> 
> Look up microfiber or its equivalent and see what pops. You might have to spell it in that weird Queens English way with the 'r' before the 'e' as in fibre.
> 
> Hope that helps except I'm afraid you are going to get a lot of results for those car washing towels.


Would it by chance be the "Faux Suede microfiber cleaning cloth" used for cleaning camera lenses or eye glasses, as can be seen on this link at AliExpress?
http://pt.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-..._6&btsid=2b6103bf-c9ba-46ec-b374-f02e98b93f1c


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

That's interesting. In the picture it looks like the sueding is going to be too much but now that you mention it, this stuff is very similar to the little piece of material you get when you buy screen protectors for your phone. A little smoother than what it looks like in that picture.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

Maybe this is it:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/290T-polyester-taffeta/32544646904.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.13.lZvmub


----------



## itscody (Mar 26, 2016)

As true dye sub is only for polyester. I have printed on several 50/50 blends poly/cotton. With not bad results even after several washes. Also a few 100% cotton. No wash test yet. But the print color has been very light maybe due to using a darker red shirt tho.


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

I've done the same. I'm wearing none right now in fact. It is a 50/50 blend and a darker maroon color. The ink holds up quite nicely on the poly fibers. 100% cotton is going to wash out and fade very quickly if not in the first wash. I bought a gray shirt same brand and the tag said the same blend but the print washed out 99% after the first wash. What sucks is it left behind faint traces here and there so I can't really use it for anything else now.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

I read somewhere that the 50/50 have the poly on the outside and the cotton on the inside of the T-Shirts. Is this true?

Wade I found these other 2 links. What's your opinion?

Faux Suedette / Brushed Polyester Fabric
Faux Suedette / Brushed Polyester Fabric - 16 Colours - 150cm Wide | eBay

Or this: 
Silky Satin Fabric - 100% Polyester
Silky Satin Fabric - 100% Polyester - 27 Colours Available - 150cm Wide | eBay

Bear in mind that my goal is to print on ceramic Mugs and tiles, but want to test the colors on some sort of material/fabric so as not to waste mugs and tiles which are quite expensive due to shipping which doubles the costs to Madeira.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> Maybe this is it:
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/290T-polyester-taffeta/32544646904.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.13.lZvmub


Yes, I had seen that link before. The price is excellent, but... the shipping costs is €18. Way too much!


----------



## Sacman (Jan 20, 2014)

The first link will work but it is a true suede material meaning that it will look faded after it is pressed since some of the fibers will not get color since it is flattened in the press. Once you rub your hand over the fabric after pressing, your eye will blend the colored and non colored fibers together making it look faded. 

The second will absolutely work. The colors will transfer bright and vivid. Just keep in mind that it is satin with a high sheen so if you later press on a regular poly shirt, the colors won't be quite as shiny but it is great to test with.


----------



## GILSAN (Aug 17, 2014)

Sacman said:


> The first link will work but it is a true suede material meaning that it will look faded after it is pressed since some of the fibers will not get color since it is flattened in the press. Once you rub your hand over the fabric after pressing, your eye will blend the colored and non colored fibers together making it look faded.
> 
> The second will absolutely work. The colors will transfer bright and vivid. Just keep in mind that it is satin with a high sheen so if you later press on a regular poly shirt, the colors won't be quite as shiny but it is great to test with.


Thanks. I'll take your advice and get some satin fabric to be used as substitute substrate for testing color fidelity, before heat pressing my ceramic mugs and tiles.


----------



## Steve Scott (Dec 12, 2012)

Very thorough and helpful. Thank you!

Steve


------------------------------------


Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...


----------



## Steve Scott (Dec 12, 2012)

Thank you Sacman. I'm getting ready to buy a 1430, so your experience will be very helpful!

Steve


-------------------------------------------


Sacman said:


> I am personally not a fan of CIS. I had one on my eco-solvent printer and it caused me lots of grief with air in the lines. Eventually the Cyan clogged completely in the line and the rest of them got super brittle. I took them out and went to refillables and never looked back. When I went purchased my sub setup, I went straight to refillables and have not had any problems with it. I use an Epson 1400 with Chinese inks and the Cobra profiles.


----------



## Steve Scott (Dec 12, 2012)

Excellent reminder!


------------------------------------------


Sacman said:


> One more thought to share with the OP. I forget about this since it has been so long, but make sure you remove the vent caps from your CIS tanks. If you don't you will never get proper ink flow to the cartridges. I'm sure this was in the setup instructions but just in case. If you do not remove the vent caps, the system is effectively vacuum locked and will not flow.


----------



## Steve Scott (Dec 12, 2012)

Hi Julie,

PhotoShop and Adobe Illustrator are VERY different types of applications. PhotoShop is a bitmap image editor, and Adobe Illustrator is just that... a vector based illustration program. I use two older sets of programs that work well... PhotoPlus and DrawPlus from Serif.com on sale for very little; and an older version of Corel Suite that has both types of applications, that I bought used on Craigslist for $5! Love it.

Good luck!

Steve


----------------------------------


Eie8631 said:


> Thank you so much for all that great information! As far as silhouette, I was hoping to do some design printing from there but I'm not too hopefull as it hasn't gone too well so far. I plan on purchasing either photoshop or adobe illustrator but I'm hesitant now after spending so much on these inks and CIS system and it not working too great so far. I would definately love that icc if you wouldn't mind sharing! Thank you so much. If I can get these inks to print half decent, I would like to use them and then change to sublijet or cobra if I need to. Where is a good place for blank tees Affordable yet with a soft feel.


----------



## Stuart21 (Mar 9, 2011)

CISS on the L1800 & L1300 is great. (CISS by Epson) Tubes resist ecosolvent ink, never had a problem with air. 

With 3rd party CISS, ecosolvent ink sucks the plasticiser out of the PVC tubes, ruins the ink, then the tubes break.

You might have to get creative to obtain an L1800 if you are in the US of A.


----------



## datkidmagic (Mar 23, 2017)

Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...


can i have those profiles too


----------



## pbtoothman83 (Jan 24, 2018)

Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...








Would you be willing to share those color profiles with me? I'm getting ready to get a couple epson 1430's. one for solvent ink and one for Dye sub..


----------



## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

pbtoothman83 said:


> Would you be willing to share those color profiles with me? I'm getting ready to get a couple epson 1430's. one for solvent ink and one for Dye sub..


Profiles are ink-based. Not printer based. 

Your solvent ink provider would have the profile, as well as your dye sub provider. They will be different.


----------



## MadeDesigns (Feb 19, 2013)

Eie8631 said:


> Hello. I'm a sublimation newbie. .... I printed my first sample from Silhoette and it was horrible. Too red, lots of lines and bands. .... I did 2 head cleanings and a nozzle check. There are breaks in 2 seperate colors. Not sure where to go from here. ...... Help!!?? .


First make sure all the air is removed from your CIS. They should be little rubber covers above the cartridges remove one then using a syringe remove all the air that is in the CIS. Always have your hands lower than the tanks that way the air will stay out of the cartridges. 

Second make sure the tanks rest even with or lower than the actual cartridges in the printer. If they tanks are higher than the cartridges it will cause them to flood inside your printhead. 

Third if all else fails install original Factory cartridges are similar and do test runs to make sure your print head is not clogged. 

Color profiles are only needed when the output does not match the screen. When you are explaining is uneven ink flow. Watch a couple videos make sure your CIS matches theirs


here is my epson wf7110 with subli ciss.
https://youtu.be/qKt4nT6zR5I


----------



## staciek (May 14, 2018)

Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...


Hi, I saw your response to the previous poster having trouble with correct color rendition with epson artisan 1430 and CISS. I have the same. I am not printing sublimation, just regular archival ink. I have no clue about color profiles, etc. just know that my prints are off. I have tried printing from both silhouette and photoshop. I would appreciate any info or color profiles that may help. I have searched the web for info, but can't make heads or tails of it. I'm trying to print on printable inkjet transfer paper for dark fabric specifically, but the problem exists no matter what I print on. Specifically for my current project, blacks are printing blue. 

Thank you for any help you can offer. 
Stacie


----------



## dennywalsh017 (1 mo ago)

Sacman said:


> I will share a couple of thoughts.
> 
> First, whether you need a color profile or not is not determined by the CIS. You have two choices when it comes to color profiles, use one or don't do sublimation. I am only partly joking. It is possible to not use a color profile but you would then have to do major color adjustment on your images to get the correct final output.
> 
> ...


Hello im interested in getting the profiled aswell if you still have them thanks


----------



## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

dennywalsh017 said:


> Hello im interested in getting the profiled aswell if you still have them thanks


try these


----------

