# Oki c3400n and Image Clip



## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Ok, all you guru's out there....simple question (right!)...does ImageClip paper work in the Okidata c3400n? If so, how well? Any issues or problems? The 3400 seems to work so well with the DuraCotton and other papers, so am thinking of buying one. Any insight appreciated.

Thanks in advance


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

gbishop said:


> Ok, all you guru's out there....simple question (right!)...does ImageClip paper work in the Okidata c3400n? If so, how well? Any issues or problems? The 3400 seems to work so well with the DuraCotton and other papers, so am thinking of buying one. Any insight appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Imageclip imaging paper(red) does not have polymer coating so jamming is not an issue unlike Duracotton. Do not set the media way too heavy because it makes the fuser way too hot. It tends to damage the glossy surface of the Imaging paper (red). I use media setting of either Transparency or Heavy. I press the two papers at 210F for 10 seconds then peel hot. This is the critical part. Some vendor recommends 225F for 20 seconds. At this setting the polymer tends to be precooked which makes poor transfer of polymer/toner on the shirt. There is another member that uses C3400 that is why I know the printer works. I use C5200Ne which is an older model. I believe C5200Ne has the same engine as C3400.

It is a bit tricky at the beginning. Once you figure out the printer and press settings the rest is easy. You are going to love Imageclip. No polymer background issue. Even if there is a little bit of polymer in the unprinted area in the imaging paper(red) it does not show in the fabric. I have used it on light color shirts without any issue. Unlike Duracotton where white patch shows up in light color shirt after the first wash. The best paper I have ever used.

Here are some threads that you can read about pros and cons of Imageclip:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t19197.html

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t3801.html

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t5030.html

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t19864.html

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t22212.html

You can also use the forum's search engine and use Imageclip as the keyword.

So try it already. Get samples from one of the vendors.

Sorry about the long post. I just like to talk about Imageclip.

Good Luck.

Luis


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Luis,

Thanks, that's just what I wanted to know.

I have been using ImageClip in my B&W HP laser, so I am familiar with the pressing and all. We want to move up to weedless color. The 3400 appears to be one of the best with DuraCotton, so wanted to make sure it would also work with ImageClip, as I have quite a bit on hand.

Thanks for the temp/time info...I had been using 210 for 10 but had noticed that many of the suppliers recommend the 220-225 for 20 and was about to try that...so appreciate the heads up on that issue. I'll just stay with 210 for 10.

Again, thanks for the good info.  

George


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

I'm currently testing out Duracotton HT with my oki 3400 but I also ordered a pack of Imageclip to compare both.

Does Imageclip work well with colored shirts such as blue, grey, yellow, pink ect?

What kind of pressure do you use and Is it necessary to change pressure settings between the two steps?


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

I tried ImageClip with my new c3400n and it works well on gray and white....haven't tried other colors yet. It needs light pressure when pressing to the green text sheet, but needs HEAVY pressure for the pressing to the shirt.

Hope it helps.

George


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

meyerlanski said:


> I'm currently testing out Duracotton HT with my oki 3400 but I also ordered a pack of Imageclip to compare both.
> 
> Does Imageclip work well with colored shirts such as blue, grey, yellow, pink ect?
> 
> What kind of pressure do you use and Is it necessary to change pressure settings between the two steps?


yes imageclip works with *light colors* such as pink, blue yellows tan green gold,natural, and u can aso use it with black text or graphics on red, and lime green, orange


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> I'm currently testing out Duracotton HT with my oki 3400 but I also ordered a pack of Imageclip to compare both.
> 
> Does Imageclip work well with colored shirts such as blue, grey, yellow, pink ect?
> 
> What kind of pressure do you use and Is it necessary to change pressure settings between the two steps?


It works extremely well with the colors you mentioned. You need not worry about white box after the light colored shirt has been washed. Unlike Duracotton I red some posts about people having white box on light colored shirt issue after the shirt has been washed.

As to pressure, temp and time settings read my previous post.

Check these photos:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p127002-post4.html
http://lh6.google.com/lnfortun/RhMrcWYF2pI/AAAAAAAAACM/ZR5eYeYJ8oE/s800/Nukecon1a.jpg


Luis


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I forgot to mention. The other day I was printing on the imaging paper when the printer has been sitting idle for quite a while and the first sheet I printed came out smeared. Some how the fuser was not hot enough even though it says it was ready. I ran 10 blank bond paper to clean the fuser and then everything printed ok. So I made it ( printing on blank bond paper) part of my printing procedure before printing on the imaging paper just so I don't take anymore chances of ruining another imaging paper.

Luis


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> I You need not worry about white box after the light colored shirt has been washed.



Is there a box before it is washed?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

AustinJeff said:


> Is there a box before it is washed?


The pink shirt in the photo was not washed when I posted it. As you can see there is no box.

The Natural shirt was washed 4 times when the photo was posted. It has been through the wash 16 times to date and it looks the same as the day it was pressed. Very little fade.

That is the beauty of Imageclip, no box before and after wash.

Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Hey Luis, Thanks for the tips.. I also do the same thing as you mentionned - Running 10 blank papers through the printer to heat it up and I haven't had any problems with toner smearing..

I just ordered a pack of imageclip papers to try out. The thing that is making me lean towards Duracotton though is the price between both papers at this point.. 
I'm from Canada and was only able to find one supplier of ImageClip papers but each sheet costs $1.20 plus taxes and shipping costs. the Duracotton only costs $0.75 cents taxes included!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> Hey Luis, Thanks for the tips.. I also do the same thing as you mentionned - Running 10 blank papers through the printer to heat it up and I haven't had any problems with toner smearing..
> 
> I just ordered a pack of imageclip papers to try out. The thing that is making me lean towards Duracotton though is the price between both papers at this point..
> I'm from Canada and was only able to find one supplier of ImageClip papers but each sheet costs $1.20 plus taxes and shipping costs. the Duracotton only costs $0.75 cents taxes included!


Hi Meyerlanksi,

That's a shame that you have to pay that much per sheet. We can get Imageclip in the US for $0.63 at 100 qty. and it gets better for large volume. The price that you are paying is almost the price for 11 X 17 sheets.

Here is the site of a vendor that has the lowest price:

Photo-Trans® ImageClip™ Order Page

I wonder if it is going to be cheaper if you order from this company after considering import duty, shipping cost and currency exchange value.

Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Thanks for the link, I'll give them a call to see if they ship to Canada and how much it will cost with shipping. As for duty fees - I think if the product was made from the US there is no charge but I'll have to double check that too..

I should be getting the pack I ordered some time today or tomorrow. I'll report back with my results and compare both Duracotton HT with Image clip!

I have read that Imageclip doesn't work well with gradient fade type effects, is that true? And can all colors get transfered properly or are there limitations with that as well?


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

meyerlanski said:


> Thanks for the link, I'll give them a call to see if they ship to Canada and how much it will cost with shipping. As for duty fees - I think if the product was made from the US there is no charge but I'll have to double check that too..
> 
> I should be getting the pack I ordered some time today or tomorrow. I'll report back with my results and compare both Duracotton HT with Image clip!
> 
> I have read that Imageclip doesn't work well with gradient fade type effects, is that true? And can all colors get transfered properly or are there limitations with that as well?


hey,
the only thing about fades is u have to have your sats darker, i have never really had a problem with fades or gradients. i do them all the time in my designs. that's part of what makes imageclip special u can do that. and also i your fades r say like red yellow blue. don't choose the lightest of those colors choose the median between those and it looks amazing.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> Thanks for the link, I'll give them a call to see if they ship to Canada and how much it will cost with shipping. As for duty fees - I think if the product was made from the US there is no charge but I'll have to double check that too..
> 
> I should be getting the pack I ordered some time today or tomorrow. I'll report back with my results and compare both Duracotton HT with Image clip!
> 
> I have read that Imageclip doesn't work well with gradient fade type effects, is that true? And can all colors get transfered properly or are there limitations with that as well?


Well if you look at the photo (from previous post) with natural colored shirt the image (Nukecon) is full of gradient fade. There are all kinds of light colors and they turned as viewed on the monitor.

I tried pressing a couple of photos. The print turned out not too badly. I think there is room for improvement with some tweaking. One turned out a little darker than the original and the other have too much saturation. I think photos can be done with imageclip.

See attached photos. What do you think?

Luis


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

I think I agree. 

How much did you bump up the saturation on the one print?


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Well if you look at the photo (from previous post) with natural colored shirt the image (Nukecon) is full of gradient fade. There are all kinds of light colors and they turned as viewed on the monitor.
> 
> I tried pressing a couple of photos. The print turned out not too badly. I think there is room for improvement with some tweaking. One turned out a little darker than the original and the other have too much saturation. I think photos can be done with imageclip.
> 
> ...


i love the baby, it looks perfect to me. but elvis well he has sunburn. anyhow i did found this out with photos on image clip DONOT INCREASE THE SAT AND ALWAYS PRINT ON PAPER FIRST. SOMETHIMES U HAVE TO LIGHTEN SOME IMAGES. but other than that i have done nice photo shirts with them if the priginal photo is good. oh and another thing if u put borders around your photos it gives them more depth. it can be just a thin border don't have to be nothing fancy.


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

mzmadmax said:


> I think I agree.
> 
> How much did you bump up the saturation on the one print?


i do sometimes thirty, or 50 it just depends on the depth and look u want.. print on paper first then tweak it.


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Thanks much for the saturation info. I'm working right now on some prints for a rush order needed tomorrow and I'm testing different tweaks. I'll try to get pics posted tomorrow.

My very first test with ImageClip was one of a photo. It came out great and I was hooked. Of course I pressed that one before I was told it wasn't really for use on photos.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

mzmadmax said:


> I think I agree.
> 
> How much did you bump up the saturation on the one print?


The print was an scan image and I did enhance it several times to make it as close to the original when it is meant to be printed on paper and not on heat transfer paper. Transfer paper is another story. I realize it now that just like any transfer paper the dot gain gets higher when the polymer is melted which causes the pixels to migrate to its neighbor. That causes the image to get dark and more saturated after it has been pressed in the garment.

I use to lower the saturation a lot that the image looks pale on the transfer and make the image 10% to 20% lighter with the old transfer paper product that I was using. Especially photo.

Luis


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> That is the beauty of Imageclip, no box before and after wash.


Luis,

Thanks for all the info on Imageclip that you have supplied in this thread and others. You have convinced me to give it a try again. I got a few sample sheets a while back, but I was put off by the 2 pressings. I thought Duracotton was going to be the way to go, but I can't seem to get it to work without leaving a box. Heck, the printed sample that I was sent from the distributor even had a box. The developer himself talked about having to do hundreds of pressing to get the right settings. No thanks. Plus, now I have a second press, so that will make Imageclip MUCH more convenient than before.

Thanks again.


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Thaks for the sample images, they look great if you ask me! 

So if I understand correctly, the saturation has to be turned up to +30-50 when printing both photos and graphic designs!? That is a lot of toner cost per sheet isn't it?

One clarification on gradient fades - what about fades that are for example black and fade to 0 opacity with nothing in the background (fades to nothing), Does the paper pick up most of the fade?

I should be getting my paper today, can't wait to try it!


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

meyerlanski said:


> Thaks for the sample images, they look great if you ask me!
> 
> So if I understand correctly, the saturation has to be turned up to +30-50 when printing both photos and graphic designs!? That is a lot of toner cost per sheet isn't it?
> 
> ...


no that is not correct. when u r doing photos and text DONOT SAT. ONLY SAT WHEN U DO TEXT AND GRAPHIC, NOT PHOTOS. MOST OF THE TIME ON TEXT AND GRAPHIC U DON'T HAVE TO ALWAYS SAT, JUST ON GRDIENTS. ON THE GRAD FADE BLACK TO 0 U WILL HAVE BALCK PKUS WHATEVER SHIRT COLOR U R USING.


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Thanks for clarifying dodank!


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

OK so I tested 2 sheets so far and am having problems after first press..

2 things - 
First: After the first press the polymer gets transfered onto the red sheet OK but it also transfers on a lot of the unprinted areas! What am I doing wrong?
I have very light pressure ans temp is at 310 f. for 10 sec.

Second: I had one positive attemp but there was a small circlular area in the middle that didn't get transfered. I had to do the inital press twice in order to not get any polymer on the unprinted areas.. Once was at extremely light pressure for 12 seconds and the other was at slightly harder pressure but still very light..

Sor far, Duracotton is winning me over but I would really like to figure this out to truly test both out.

My big problem now is that the majority of my attempts failed due to polymer transfering onto unprinted areas of the sheet. Even with light or very light pressure..


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

It sounds like your temps, times and pressure are off. Your first step should be for 10 seconds at 210 - 225 F with light pressure. Peel hot.

The second press should be for 10 - 15 secs at 375 - 400 F with heavy pressure. Peel hot

I give ranges because I actually have two sets of instruction for pressing ImageClip. One set came with my paper and one set is from Neenah's website. I found that to be a good thing because that, coupled with the great advice from Infortun, gave me an idea of what ranges to try while dialing in the process for my equipment. 

The directions that came with my paper are:
ImageClip Heat Transfer Paper 8 1/2" x 11" (50 sheets) Click for Discounts *SPECIAL* - 11-imageclip

The directions from Neenah's website are:
Technical Products solutions - Photo-TransÂ® ImageClipâ„¢ - Neenah Paper Inc.

I still get stray tiny dots of polymer that transfer on the first press to the unprinted areas, but I can't or feel them on the shirt after the second pressing.

I hope this helps.


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

meyerlanski said:


> OK so I tested 2 sheets so far and am having problems after first press..
> 
> 2 things -
> First: After the first press the polymer gets transfered onto the red sheet OK but it also transfers on a lot of the unprinted areas! What am I doing wrong?
> ...


hello,
ok i have a manual press too. but on the first pressing i do med pressure.at 10 sec between 210 and 220. the second press. will be heavy pressure as far u can manage. do this at 400 dgrees. 10 sec. u will have to tweak your settings as u go because each press temp varies. once u tweak your settings.do what i did. i mark my press at the first pressing on my pressure nob with nail polish or something so everytime it's right. yes your pressure is too light on both steps.

let me know if u need anymore help. once u get it u will glad. i caught hell and had noone to tell me these things.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> OK so I tested 2 sheets so far and am having problems after first press..
> 
> 2 things -
> First: After the first press the polymer gets transfered onto the red sheet OK but it also transfers on a lot of the unprinted areas! What am I doing wrong?
> ...


Hi meyerlanski,

How are doing with your testing? The recommend temp is 210-225 for 10-20 seconds depending on the vendor's pressing instruction. Some speckle of polymer on the red paper is acceptable. Ideally there is no polymer but due to some varying conditions the result will vary from the norm. I have pressed transfers with polymer in the open area and it turned out great. Little specks will not show on the shirt. It is not like e.g. Duracotton where you have solid polymer covering the open area.

I always for the most part of my posts, if not all, make sure I mention about the polymer speck issue. So that any new user or tester will be aware of the polymer speck which really does not have any adverse effect in the final product.

I suggest that you lower the temp to recommended range and raise the pressure up till you get rid of polymer void on the printed space. There is a member that claims that he uses same temp and pressure for both pressing the two papers and pressing on the shirt. I tend to question that especially the temp part. But he claims it works for him.

It took some trying before I finally get the right setting. Except the very first sample I did. It came out perfect on a first shot. That is the photo that I have been showing around in several threads (Nukecon shirt).

Just think 2 tries is microscopic compared to Duracotton's claim of after 300 tries they finally found a setting for zero hand zero cutting. Imagine that. So try a few more. Give Imageclip a chance to prove its worth. I am sure you will love it once you get the right settings.

I also like to suggest you press those transfers that you call failures on a scrap shirt just to prove the little specks on open space is not an issue in the final result.

Good Luck.

Luis


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

AustinJeff said:


> Luis,
> 
> Thanks for all the info on Imageclip that you have supplied in this thread and others. You have convinced me to give it a try again. I got a few sample sheets a while back, but I was put off by the 2 pressings. I thought Duracotton was going to be the way to go, but I can't seem to get it to work without leaving a box. Heck, the printed sample that I was sent from the distributor even had a box. The developer himself talked about having to do hundreds of pressing to get the right settings. No thanks. Plus, now I have a second press, so that will make Imageclip MUCH more convenient than before.
> 
> Thanks again.


Hi AustinJeff,

You are welcome. I am toying with an idea about finding a way to work around the two different pressure and temp settings when pressing the transfer papers and pressing the transfer on the shirt.

I will let everybody know if it is a viable solution.

Good luck. Imageclip will try your patience during the setup process. Don't give up though. You are going to love imageclip once you figure out the right settings for your equipment.

Luis


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Luis,

I can vouch for not needing to change the pressure. Once I started tweaking my settings to optimize the polymer voids on the first press, I ended up using the same setting for both the first and second pressings. The thickness of the shirt makes it heavy pressure during the second press. But since the paper is thinner, it is actually a much lighter pressure for the first press at the same setting.

I'm using a Hix Swingman 20D press. I believe the other member who ended up using the same pressure setting is using a Hix press as well. So maybe it's something unique to Hix. I can't say, since this is the only heat press model that I have used.

As for the temperature, I still have to crank it up for the second press. If there is a way to get around that part... well now, that would be just wonderful.


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Imageclip will try your patience during the setup process.


Is one part (first press or second press) harder to get right? Seems that it would be the first press. 

Is there any guidance available on _how_ to adjust the settings (i.e., crank up the heat to just below the point where it scorches the shirts, use the lightest pressure that will still transfer the image, etc.)


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

AustinJeff said:


> Is one part (first press or second press) harder to get right? Seems that it would be the first press.
> 
> Is there any guidance available on _how_ to adjust the settings (i.e., crank up the heat to just below the point where it scorches the shirts, use the lightest pressure that will still transfer the image, etc.)


It is the first pressing part that is a bit tricky to setup. I use the recommend temp of 210F and time for 10 seconds with light pressure then peel hot. Some polymer specks will stick to open area but don't be alarmed. It will not show on the garment. The second part's recommended temp is 400F for 10 seconds with heavy pressure then peel hot immediately.

Two members do the pressure setting than I do. They both claim that they use the same pressure for the first and second part and the process works.

Here is the link of the thread that has the post about the pressure:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t24324.html

Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

I tried almost 20 sheets with no luck! There is always a lot of polymer that sticks to open areas.. I tried your suggestion - pressing on scrap tshirt and was able to see the polymer patches, thats how much is being transfered in the open areas..
The funny thing is, when I tried pressing two blank sheets (unprinted) almost no poylemer got transfered over!

No idea at this point what it could be but I do know that I onlyhave 7 sheets left to test out!

Could it be the way I'm peeling or the way the paper is being fed into the printer? I read something about inserting the paper 'short grain first' what does that mean exactly?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> I tried almost 20 sheets with no luck! There is always a lot of polymer that sticks to open areas.. I tried your suggestion - pressing on scrap tshirt and was able to see the polymer patches, thats how much is being transfered in the open areas..
> The funny thing is, when I tried pressing two blank sheets (unprinted) almost no poylemer got transfered over!
> 
> No idea at this point what it could be but I do know that I onlyhave 7 sheets left to test out!
> ...


That tells me that the fuser in your printer is too hot. The glossy surface maybe is damaged and losses its ability to avoid the polymer to bond in the open area. Try using a different media setting. You know with the Oki printer the heavier the media weight the higher the printer compensates for the fuser temp. Try glossy media setting if your printer has it. Or even medium weight setting. I use transparency and I do get specks in the open area. Keep the papers on the lower platten while you are peeling so that they will not cool down in the process.

The link I posted earlier has a member saying that out of 40 that he pressed only one had specks. He claims he presses using the same pressure for the two stages. His handle is patchmaster. Try sending him personal message. Or post in that link about what you are experiencing. Dodank is antoher member that has very good success with Imageclip.

Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

The fuser being too hot could be the problem, your right. I was printing with heavy paper settings and on top of that I ran 10 sheets of blank paper to heat up the fuser (to make sure the fuser was hot enough for no smearing).. Do you run blank sheets as well?

I'll give it a try without heating up the fuser and setting the paper settings to a lighter weight, such as medium. If that doesn't work I'll try a lighter one.

I have an oki 3400 and there is no transparency paper type.. I can't recall all the settings off hand but I know for sure there is medium, heavy, Extra heavy, glossy (which is one of the hevier ones). I was using Heavy.

I'm determined to get this working! Will report back soon..


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> The fuser being too hot could be the problem, your right. I was printing with heavy paper settings and on top of that I ran 10 sheets of blank paper to heat up the fuser (to make sure the fuser was hot enough for no smearing).. Do you run blank sheets as well?
> 
> I'll give it a try without heating up the fuser and setting the paper settings to a lighter weight, such as medium. If that doesn't work I'll try a lighter one.
> 
> ...


Do not use medium setting I tried it and it did not fuse the toner. I had issue with transparency also. I am getting color shift and the printer is putting lesser toner since the the light has to go throw transparency media. I noticed this when I tried to print a saturated solid color. I noticed a big difference in color darkness between transparency and heavy settings. Sorry for misleading you and others. I do use transparency settings for full color graphics and photos. I will be switching to heavy setting even though I get excessive polymer in the open area but I have a way around it. I sent you a personal message that explains all that. I also replied to your questions.

Not sure what glossy will do to the transfer paper since I do not have that feature in my printer. At this point you may want to try it. I know Ken of Duracotton recommends glossy setting with some models of Oki printers to get zero cut zero hand with their paper.

I do run 10 sheets of blank paper before printing on the transfer. For some reason lately I've been having fusing problem on a fresh start.

Luis


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

hey guys, here's the link on imageclip on sale

Vinyl Cutters, heat presses, heat transfer material, transfer papers and heat printing supplies all at affordable prices.


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Hi Luis and ROQ,

I have been doing a lot of ImageClip transfers in the last couple of weeks. I have an OKI c3400n and have been getting good results. I run 5 blank sheets through to warm it up, then print my ImageClip transfers. Settings on the c3400n set to Heavy (105-120 gm2), multipurpose tray, High Quality (although Fine/Detail has worked well too), Advanced Color, Auto, True Black, Brightness +10. They print fine. 

I run into lots of polymer when I let the press heat up too much for the red/green press. I find if I set my press so it's about 210-214 F it works well. Also, I do the silicon sheet press for 4 seconds and they come out good. Too cool and there are lots of "holes" in the transfer where ink should transfer, but won't. Too hot and waaaayyyy to much speckling in unprinted areas.

Hope this helps.

George


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## mountaineerwv (Feb 6, 2007)

Hi George,
I use a C5500n and image clip. I use a little more pressure on the first press of green to red and helps to fill in the open spots. I like this paper alot. I get good results on caps & shirts. Earl


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

gbishop said:


> Hi Luis and ROQ,
> 
> I have been doing a lot of ImageClip transfers in the last couple of weeks. I have an OKI c3400n and have been getting good results. I run 5 blank sheets through to warm it up, then print my ImageClip transfers. Settings on the c3400n set to Heavy (105-120 gm2), multipurpose tray, High Quality (although Fine/Detail has worked well too), Advanced Color, Auto, True Black, Brightness +10. They print fine.
> 
> ...


With the new procedure of using silicon sheet I find that I do not have to race with time in peeling the two sheets apart. I have done it to almost to the point that the papers are luke warm as long as they are under the silicon sheet and still get a good clean polymer coverage. I agree with raisng the pressure. That helped prevent the empty spots for me. Setting the dwell time between 5 and 10 seconds also helps especially with light colors and eliminate empty spots also.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

MYDAMIT said:


> hey guys, here's the link on imageclip on sale
> 
> Vinyl Cutters, heat presses, heat transfer material, transfer papers and heat printing supplies all at affordable prices.


I checked the site and find under over stock sale.

I get about the same price from Transfer paper, heat transfer paper, inkjet transfer paper, t shirt transfer paper with free shipping for orders above $199.00. The price is for regular items they sell and not an over stock item.


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## teegirl (Nov 25, 2008)

I was told by the "experts" at one company that works with Neenah Paper who make Image clip as well as many other types of transfer paper that it is best to go to the print menu and media settings directly on the printer control panel and set media weight to ultra heavy, paper to card stock, and MPT paper size to tabloid. For those with the Oki 8600 this will prevent you having to press the online button every time you send a job to the printer. Other secrets: make sure the printer is plugged directly into the wall, and not plugged into a power strip that is shared with other devices. This will rob the printer of just enough power to possibly cause incomplete fusing of the toner, esp. with papers that really need a high temp., like Laser 1 Opaque. The temp. settings for the Image Clip should be around 211 for the first press at about 21 sec. with an extremely light pressure (1 - 2 at most). The printed image will become cloudy with the polymer backing. I have also done the transfers when the image is not cloudy but looks almost as if nothing happened when the two papers were pressed together, it still went onto a shirt just fine, only repeated washings will tell if there is a difference. Use a teflon sheet over the 2 papers when you do your first press to keep something hot over the papers until you peel them. I have found that you need to peel them quickly. Fold a corner of the top sheet over before pressing so you have something to grab. For the second press 400 at very heavy pressure. Peeling time doesn't matter as much here. Peel while hot and strtch the shirt a bit to allow the hot toner to get in between the fibers a bit. You will always see white when the shirts are stretched after applying these transfers. They do not have the coverage of screen printed transfers.
I have found that some lighter colors do not transfers well with the first pressing. I can't get light pinks and greys below about 40% of black to transfer well. That is, after the first press some of the toner in these colors sticks to the polymer sheet after the press. This is where the teflon sheet and very quick peel comes in. If you let the 2 sheets sit together just a second too long these colors will be incomplete when you do your final press to a shirt. I'm hoping that some of the above mentioned solutions from the "experts" will help to solve this problem. Maybe the lighter shades of red and black need that extra bit of heat to fuse better on the paper when printed? 

Anyone using Laser ! Opaque? I had huge problems with this paper on the Oki 8600. I called and wanted my money back, but I talked to 2 people who are the "experts" mentioned above for some solutions. My major problems were that the toner would not fuse after about 1.5 inches of printing. Green sloughed off and revealed the yellow under it, toner all over the paper,etc. Blacks and greys did OK. I also had toner flaking off and crackling when I tried to peel what had printed off the paper backing. The above mentioned settings helped prevent the flaking and crackling problem but there is still the sloughing of the toner and horrible waste of paper. I have been informed that a certain company that has pretty good support and Neenah Paper are in contact about the problems with this paper and the Oki 8600 in particular. There may be other Oki models involved. Customer testing is proceeding with a patch for the User 1 setting that will allow the printer to boost the temp. of the fuser just for this paper. Apparently they knew about the problem before they sold me the paper but sold it to me anyway, at least they didn't abandon me like the place I bought the printer from. Both companies hope to have a viable patch available shortly, so maybe my money isn't completely wasted.

Good Luck!

By the way, many thanks to Lnfortun and others for there awesome tips on using Image Clip. Lnfortun really allowed me to stop pulling my hair out and wanting to throw the printer away when I couldn't get this paper to work about a year ago.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Hi Teegirl,

Thank you for the compliments.

Regarding 8600 printer, are saying that the Ultra heavy and card stock settings with this printer is not hot enough compared to the lower models? Have tried printing 5 - 10 blank stanard laser papers to warm up the fuser?

I have red posts that ultra heavy, card stock and label media type also made the laser 1 opaque work. I have a couple of opaque paper with purple lines on the back. Is that what Laser 1 opaque have? If it is, I am going to try and print and press them.

You mentioned using Teflon to cover the papers when pressing them in first step. I found that using silicon baking sheet or mat (not the parchment paper) works better because it keeps the papers hot while keeping the polymer soft when peeling. It really minimizes the amount of polymer speckle in the open area. It also evens out the pressure on the papers. It also allows more time to peel and don't have to race for time to get a good polymer transfer.

I have yet to find a way though to make the very light and gradient colors to work . Although the very first sample I did that got me hooked came out great and the image have all kinds of light and gradient color. That is the Nukecon design on natural colored shirt. I pressed few more of that image and it always came out good. Go figure.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Teegirl,

This might help solve you Laser 1 opaque problem:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t69878.html


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## kblstyle (May 20, 2009)

I am currently really struggling with my press settings using imageclip. I'm getting speckled faded areas when I perform the wash test. It is getting better but it is not consistant yet. The image prints to the t-shirt flawlessly for the most part and I thibk I will be very happy with this product. I've found on my press 300 degrees light pressure for 7 seconds works best on step 1 and I bump it up to 400 degrees on step 2 with heavy pressure for 20 seconds. I use the "label" media type setting and normal print quality. When I press the red and green sheets together, I usually get a nicely even "white film coating" over the image, I wait at least 24 hours and perform the wash test, I sometimes I still get some fading which leads me to think either my saturation is off or my press settings. ANY SUGGESTIONS OF THINGS I SHOULD TRY???


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Keronda,

I've had very good luck with Image Clip using Lnfortun (Luis)'s suggested settings on my Oki 3400.
My printer settings are Heavy paper (28-32lb), Options - Fine/Detail, Color/Advanced Auto, Color Brightness -10 (minus 10). Make sure you run at LEAST 5 sheets of plain paper through the printer before your Image Clip. Then, press the red/green at 210 degrees, very light pressue for 10 seconds...open and immediately put a silpat (silicone) baking sheet over them and press for 5 seconds, then peel. Final print I use 400 degrees for 15 seconds with VERY HEAVY pressure. I have many shirts pressed this way and they still look good after many washes. Before you press the shirts, make sure you have washed them to remove any sizing in them...this makes a BIG difference in the quality of the pressing. I now wash all shirts as soon as I receive a batch and put them away for use.

Hope this helps.

George


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## kblstyle (May 20, 2009)

Will try these settings and will post outcome after wash test.
Thanks so much!


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