# free press plans



## bobbob1982 (Apr 7, 2008)

Just emailed another member some pics of my homemade press should be on the forum soon


----------



## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

Here's a .pdf file of the file that was sent to me, complete with photos of his press and description of how it works. If it doesn't open automatically, you may need to download the free Acrobat Reader from Adobe.


----------



## Boomerbabe (Sep 5, 2009)

The Bob Marley print is awesome. What size mesh did you use?


----------



## bobbob1982 (Apr 7, 2008)

I used a 77t mesh think it works out at 196 in us conversion


----------



## gotshirts2ink (Nov 12, 2009)

am I missing something Where are the plans?
all I saw was a link on how you made the shirt with the press


----------



## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

I'm not the author, but the press, such that it is, is simply a shirtboard with a metal bar about where a frame clamp would normally go, with a centered upright stud that registers the frame via a metal tab that's offset from the center so one edge engages the stud. The two bolts in the frame(s) butt up against the metal bar, and can adjust the frame inward, outward, and skew. There's not really much more to show than what's obvious in the first few photos as far as plans go. Pretty simple, actually. For someone with no money, rather than build a crappy wooden carousel press, I can see where this would be a workable alternative.


----------



## bigluelok (Aug 10, 2007)

that bob marley print is awesome.


----------



## jsf (Aug 4, 2009)

Nicely done!  Cheers!


----------



## Genocide (Apr 1, 2010)

Is the plattens are removable?


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

That looks like a perfect small footprint solution. I've been trying to find a good set of pictures or plans for that style of setup. Seems like such a simple way to go. So many small tweaks that could make that work even better, if possible.

Hey, it's my first post. Glad to be here.


----------



## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

I had run across a website showing a table printing machine made and sold by a company in Peru, I believe, that showed detail about how the frames interfaced with the table, and how the micros worked. It was very simple, and something that could be done easily on the cheap, and replicated professionally by someone with some basic welding skills. At first, I though it was set up on sawhorses, but that was part of the whole press. It's not unlike some of the particle board stuff you see sold on the internet, but the way the frame works with the table, and the micros is simpler and looks to be pretty accurate. Flashing prints for dark shirts would be an issue, but for wet-on-wet printing, a cheap, easy, and accurate set up.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

I think I saw that one or one similar on Youtube. It had a rectangular pipe as a stop? Those guys were rockin' that machine. It looked like it could easily be adapted to a small run setup.

If only I could read and speak Spanish or Philipino. Dagnab it.


----------



## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

Here's a quick schematic of how it worked as I remember. You're looking down at it from the top, there's an "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to intersect the Left/Right "micro", and the frame butts up against the two "Front/Back/Skew" "micros at the top as well. The micros are all attached to a piece of square tube stock, or a piece of wood and t-nuts could be used. The "Micro" bolts all should have locknuts to keep the bolts from moving once registration was achieved. The shirtboard is underneath, and I have to assume that off-contact is probably achieved with shims attached to the screen frame underneath and rest on the shirtboard. Needless to say, registration will also depend on consistently pushing and holding the screen up against all three micros, but the guys I've seen in the videos really move along snapping those boys in there.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

Right on. That looks simple enough. It's my next project. I saw one where they had put the micros on the bottom edge and then pulled towards them. That may work in a smaller artistic setting where you aren't trying for top speed. It would also make it so you don't have to slop ink all over your shirt to keep it in place. Or at least I wouldn't. Those guys seemed pretty clean considering the speed they were going. At that speed I would probably have it in my hair as well as my shirt.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Here is a basic illustration of how a frame is registered on a line table system. The black outline, called a guide rail, is usually a steel angular bar about 1-1/2" on both sides. The gray on the middle of the guide rail is called a registration stop or stopper. The illustration shows a 4-5" nail but often, they are screwed onto the quide rail to allow for micro adjustment. The bluish "T" on the frame is the "T" guide, centering guide or the vertical registration. Just think of a "T" bracket or a "L" corner bracket. Film positives are pre-aligned for this to work but some, like me, use an adjustable guide for micro-registration. This is the first contact point for a line table registration system.

The 2 small yellow circles at the end of the frame (on the side where the "T" guide is are simply eyescrews. We normally use #8-10 eyescrews. The two screws are adjusted up or down for horizontal alignment and represents the 2nd and 3rd contact points to complete the 3 point registration system of a typical line table system. 

Some discussion can also be found here http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing-equipment/t123221.html


----------



## chard (Oct 14, 2008)

tpitman said:


> Here's a quick schematic of how it worked as I remember. You're looking down at it from the top, there's an "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to intersect the Left/Right "micro", and the frame butts up against the two "Front/Back/Skew" "micros at the top as well. The micros are all attached to a piece of square tube stock, or a piece of wood and t-nuts could be used. The "Micro" bolts all should have locknuts to keep the bolts from moving once registration was achieved. The shirtboard is underneath, and I have to assume that off-contact is probably achieved with shims attached to the screen frame underneath and rest on the shirtboard. Needless to say, registration will also depend on consistently pushing and holding the screen up against all three micros, but the guys I've seen in the videos really move along snapping those boys in there.


its better if you switch places of the "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to the Left/Right "micro"..in that way you can adjust the screens individually and have more room for errors during pre-press preaparation..


----------



## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

Good catch. I was trying to remember how they worked, so in my sketch is kind of bass-ackwards. BroJames videos show the way you describe. The bracket screen attachment with the micros incorporated would also allow the use of retensionable frames without buggering them up.


----------



## chard (Oct 14, 2008)

i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
YouTube - baroanthology's Channel


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

chard said:


> i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
> YouTube - baroanthology's Channel


 
Would you mind posting a picture of your setup. It looked like you only have the middle adjustment, what are you using for the other adjustments/micros?

Also, who sings the frog song?


----------



## bern (Feb 14, 2007)

chard said:


> i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
> YouTube - baroanthology's Channel


Chard just watched all the Vids on youtube , they are great , wow you guys really are getting impressive results . bobbob1982 the Bob Marley blows me away . Thanks for posting guys , great info


----------



## jsf (Aug 4, 2009)

Adding results with these cheap setup... check also some of my prints, some basic spots and some processed... http://www.t-shirtforums.com/members/jsf-albums-screen-printing-some-our-works.html


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

[media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U60pB3icbc&feature=related[/media]
Watch a 75lpi print here (not mine)
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing-equipment/t123221-2.html#post743531


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

That's awesome. That setup is great. I started getting mine setup, once I got started it went together pretty smoothly. Haven't tried it yet. Here's hoping it works as planned.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

That's quick. Do let us know how things go. No reason why it shouldn't work.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

I just converted my single DIY single press, so I suppose you could say it is in the prototype stage at this point. If it works as hoped, then I will do it out of steel and add a couple of plattens. I'm trying to come up with a side adjustment on one side to help keep it steady. Though I'm going to try printing with it this weekend as is and see if it is even needed.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

This is one of my desktop press. The 4 different platens on the right are bolted on the press on the left








It looks a little different now.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

Thanks for the picture. What is the total width of your setup and plattens? The removeable platten is the next thing I need to perfect. A couple of L brackets and eye screws should work great.

I ended up putting small L brackets on the end of my frames which added a few inches of width and stability, then a simple L bracket in the middle with a bolt and a tall large L bracket as my stop. Haven't had a chance to print yet, hopefully in the next few days.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

Ten pallet Table set-up plan


----------



## Genocide (Apr 1, 2010)

Bai sanoshirts!  lamats sa pag share ana bai. kay afterkong maka ipon2 nako kay
mag long table ko. mao na imo current set up karon? pwede


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

Thank-you very much. That will help a lot. Now I just neeed to find room in the garage.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

VinylHanger said:


> Thanks for the picture. What is the total width of your setup and plattens?...


My standard platen is 16"x19" for 20x24" frames. I have a 16x16" platen for my 18x20 frames. The frame usually extend beyond the platen on the printer's side so you can use your body (stomach/pelvic area usually) to push the frame against the guide rail just to stabilize the frame especially if you use the pull stroke. There is no need though if your ink is viscous and if you use a gentle pull stroke.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

I finally had a chance to print a couple shirts. My daughter had a design she wanted printed so I showed her how to burn a screen and then I tried out the new table system. What a breeze. I like how solid it feels. A few more minor adjustments and I think we're ready to rock. It is so simple and yet such a useable system. Thanks to everyone who gave advice and posted pictures. It worked so well my daughter is wanting to do some herself.

Now to build a 4 platten setup I can hang on the wall when not in use. Can't wait.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

VinylHanger said:


> I finally had a chance to print a couple shirts. My daughter had a design she wanted printed so I showed her how to burn a screen and then I tried out the new table system. What a breeze. I like how solid it feels. A few more minor adjustments and I think we're ready to rock. It is so simple and yet such a useable system. Thanks to everyone who gave advice and posted pictures. It worked so well my daughter is wanting to do some herself.
> 
> Now to build a 4 platten setup I can hang on the wall when not in use. Can't wait.


You may try my 6 platen table top plan. It's only 50" long and 38" wide just enough to put over the standard casual dining table. See attached


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

Thank-you. That will give me a good place to start. My setup runs along a wall, so I need to have the plattens all on one side. Your plan does look like it will be pretty light weight though, and I may use the frame design on mine.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

There is also a collapsible bracket available at most DIY shops here which you can explore.


----------



## brotherpiano (Aug 18, 2010)

Very elegant design sanoshirts. Many thanks - I'll be building this soon.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Not just elegant. They're also versatile, proven and dirt cheap


----------



## brotherpiano (Aug 18, 2010)

heh, I just finished dry fitting all the pieces together and it looks great. 

I ended up laminating a bunch of poplar into 1 1/2" to make my lengths of wood - I hate warpage. I was going to use a high preassure lamanite on the mdf, but decided to simply shallack the hell out of it. Is there any reason I should not be using shellack to seal the top and bottom against warping? I know it is not as durable this way, but figured it'll cut 60-70$ from the cost.

Thanks again, I'll be starting a thread, "What TSF taught this upstart." soon where I'll be posting photos of a complete DIY shop and business model based largely from what information I've culled from these hallowed forums.


----------



## brotherpiano (Aug 18, 2010)

PS: mdf is a bugger to screw into and create a strong hold. Are you using some sort of threaded insert on the bottom side? That's how I was planning on attaching them.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

brotherpiano said:


> Very elegant design sanoshirts. Many thanks - I'll be building this soon.


Thanks brotherpiano, I'm glad you like to build based on the plan. I haven't had the time to build it yet. You may post some pictures if you finish building it for others to see how the finished project looks.


----------



## brotherpiano (Aug 18, 2010)

Will do, I'm taking process photos as well.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

brotherpiano said:


> PS: mdf is a bugger to screw into and create a strong hold. Are you using some sort of threaded insert on the bottom side? That's how I was planning on attaching them.


You may use liquid nail, just make sure both surface is rough to hold the liquid nail. If you don't want to use liquid nail, MDF is very difficult to screw specially that it's thick, you may drill a hole in the MDF, the hole should be tight enough to hold the thread of the screw.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

brotherpiano said:


> heh, I just finished dry fitting all the pieces together and it looks great.
> 
> I ended up laminating a bunch of poplar into 1 1/2" to make my lengths of wood - I hate warpage. I was going to use a high preassure lamanite on the mdf, but decided to simply shallack the hell out of it. Is there any reason I should not be using shellack to seal the top and bottom against warping? I know it is not as durable this way, but figured it'll cut 60-70$ from the cost.
> 
> Thanks again, I'll be starting a thread, "What TSF taught this upstart." soon where I'll be posting photos of a complete DIY shop and business model based largely from what information I've culled from these hallowed forums.


Shellack is fine as long as it's from an aerosol spray. You have to spray it so that your platten is smooth and plain. Applying them using paint brush may cause roughness of your platten and it may affect your print. And also make sure you apply it thick to seal the MDF completely. As you know, MDF easily swell when in contact with water or moisture.


----------



## brotherpiano (Aug 18, 2010)

AroWhat? heh, I'm old-school. Brush, sand, brush, sand, etc... followed by a THICK coat that will level out. The problem with fixing it with liquid nails is it's forever and I want them to accommodate different sizes as I need them. I'll probably end up using threaded inserts made for particle board or some sort of plate that will allow me to attach the mdf at a few places spaced wider than the 1.5in allows. Meh, it's just a matter of digging around the hardware store and seeing what they have that'll do the trick.


----------



## sanoshirts (Sep 17, 2007)

You don't have to sand the platen, just spray it. I mean you have to sand the part MDF that will contact the wood.
But you're right, the platens should be detachable.
I know what you think, and I think it will work great.


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

brotherpiano said:


> AroWhat? heh, I'm old-school. Brush, sand, brush, sand, etc... followed by a THICK coat that will level out. The problem with fixing it with liquid nails is it's forever and I want them to accommodate different sizes as I need them. I'll probably end up using threaded inserts made for particle board or some sort of plate that will allow me to attach the mdf at a few places spaced wider than the 1.5in allows. Meh, it's just a matter of digging around the hardware store and seeing what they have that'll do the trick.


aerosols are pressurized canisters


----------



## bweavernh (Jun 26, 2008)

Gives me a few great ideas.


----------



## shasta (Oct 26, 2008)

Came here to check out the press plans but me also found the print and have been looking for such tips for a long time.You are talented bro looking forward to great tips from you and other screeprinters here to.


----------



## jsf (Aug 4, 2009)

shasta said:


> Came here to check out the press plans but me also found the print and have been looking for such tips for a long time.You are talented bro looking forward to great tips from you and other screeprinters here to.



Good luck to you Sir! 

This forum have lots of info and resources where you can get yourself listing some stuffs before you make your decision...


----------



## shasta (Oct 26, 2008)

jsf said:


> Good luck to you Sir!
> 
> This forum have lots of info and resources where you can get yourself listing some stuffs before you make your decision...




Cheers bro!!!


----------



## tahoia (Jun 21, 2012)

tpitman said:


> Here's a .pdf file of the file that was sent to me, complete with photos of his press and description of how it works. If it doesn't open automatically, you may need to download the free Acrobat Reader from Adobe.


Thank you for sharing the line table plans..i am definant building one today.my only thing is the center stopper on the screen and how i can make it centered. Hey thanks again!


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

tahoia said:


> Thank you for sharing the line table plans..i am definant building one today.my only thing is the center stopper on the screen and how i can make it centered. Hey thanks again!


I am not sure what you mean but you measure them and place them in the same position on each screen. You also need to pre-align or pre-register your images using these registration guides before doing the actual exposure.


----------



## nclive02 (Jul 8, 2012)

ty you have helped me out .


----------



## gpoy66 (Oct 30, 2012)

gud day new lang po ako sa screen printing..sir angel san ba pwede maka kuha ng pdf or mga measurements ng line tabe?


----------



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/asia/t126699-2.html#post747411

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t120878-3.html#post753513


----------



## notorioustees (Mar 6, 2009)

tpitman said:


> Here's a .pdf file of the file that was sent to me, complete with photos of his press and description of how it works. If it doesn't open automatically, you may need to download the free Acrobat Reader from Adobe.


Just downloaded the pdf as I want to start a set up in the beginning of this year. Right now we subcontract our printing out, but i've been wanting to do in house for a long time now. Great thread!


----------



## humvee908 (Aug 2, 2012)

BroJames said:


> My standard platen is 16"x19" for 20x24" frames. I have a 16x16" platen for my 18x20 frames. The frame usually extend beyond the platen on the printer's side so you can use your body (stomach/pelvic area usually) to push the frame against the guide rail just to stabilize the frame especially if you use the pull stroke. There is no need though if your ink is viscous and if you use a gentle pull stroke.


 
Hi Sir BroJames, you might find that I asked you also somehow the same question in other thread, but I am just wondering really how the off contact can be placed specially in the case that you mentioned here that your screens are much bigger than the platens. Sorry but I've been thinking that off contact will be placed under the screen facing againts the platen....


----------



## Entity10 (Mar 31, 2013)

HI 
im GJ.. pinoy 

Just wana ask if ung budget ba na 5k php, kasya pag setup ng line table? kahit 4-6 na platens lng? wood sana..

thanks sa tutulong.

QC area ako..

[email protected]
09162461863/09194266200


----------



## chrisseht (Jun 8, 2013)

can you give me the exact measurements of the line table press including the platen and materials needed..........with images included thanks..........


----------



## gpoy66 (Oct 30, 2012)

Entity10 said:


> HI
> im GJ.. pinoy
> 
> Just wana ask if ung budget ba na 5k php, kasya pag setup ng line table? kahit 4-6 na platens lng? wood sana..
> ...




ok na yang budjet mo bro...yung sa akon 2k lang 8 platens na wood din...


----------



## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

Hello all,

Been lurking around the forum for a few months now and love the idea of the line press. The only thing I don't understand is how the off contact is dealt with? What if you wanted to print on a sweat shirt instead of a t-shirt. I see the question about off contact has been asked a few times now. Does anyone have any information to build this press with off contact adjustment? This forum has been a wealth of knowledge for me and I want to thank everyone. Looking forward to a reply.

Mike


----------



## adamajang (Jun 9, 2013)

Nice thread thanks guys

Sent from my ST17i using T-Shirt Forums


----------



## Novice Printer (Mar 15, 2015)

how did you do that? bob marley 2 color halftone? tnx


----------



## Novice Printer (Mar 15, 2015)

tpitman said:


> Here's a .pdf file of the file that was sent to me, complete with photos of his press and description of how it works. If it doesn't open automatically, you may need to download the free Acrobat Reader from Adobe.


how did you do the 2 color halftone of bob marley?
can I have the step by step?
tnx


----------



## jmedrano (Dec 20, 2015)

This is perfect. I will be building one after the beginning of the year.


----------



## bingo071284 (Feb 1, 2013)

wow its awesome..specially the bob marley...


----------



## cyclesurgeon (Sep 10, 2010)

macman29681 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Been lurking around the forum for a few months now and love the idea of the line press. The only thing I don't understand is how the off contact is dealt with? What if you wanted to print on a sweat shirt instead of a t-shirt. I see the question about off contact has been asked a few times now. Does anyone have any information to build this press with off contact adjustment? This forum has been a wealth of knowledge for me and I want to thank everyone. Looking forward to a reply.
> 
> Mike


Each screen has off contact attached. I use large washers that are about 3mm thick and rare earth magnets on the print side to keep them in place.


----------



## Kuya Deck (Feb 29, 2020)

Sir 
can you send me also the design or plan for the line table thanks


----------



## Kuya Deck (Feb 29, 2020)

Sir

could you email me the plans or design that you have [email protected]
thanks


----------



## cyclesurgeon (Sep 10, 2010)

Kuya Deck said:


> Sir
> 
> could you email me the plans or design that you have [email protected]
> thanks


You realize the original post is 10 years old...right?


----------

