# Can someone please walk me through 3D embroidery



## Patches (Oct 13, 2008)

Hi all.. I'm using Wilcom65, and I think I have an idea of how to create the 3d puffy embroidery, when I try for the first time tomorrow.. My guess is that I'll learn through trial and error, one way or another but I'd like some opinions and maybe a walk through from a seasoned veteran..

I have craft foam, and I plan on doing this on to some hats!

For some reason I can never get the '3D' button the give me the option to push it in Wilcom on my projects, it's always greyed out!? Anyone know why this would be..

For manual 3D I believe I set the thread to (.20) as oposed to (.40) in density, then I believe place the foam on the hat...

Do the needles cut the foam for me? Does anyone have pictures, or a video they can share on how this is done?
Thanks
Adrian


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## jwininger (Sep 18, 2008)

From what i know, yes the needles do cut the foam for the most part. Also make sure you use the right color foam to match as closely to the thread as possible. After you finish take a lighter or hair dryer and it will get rid of alot of the foam that is sticking out. Also you can take a needle or bobby pin and push the foam in underneath the threads if its showing.. Good Luck


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## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

Adrian,
No secret to it. Puff embroidery is done with satin stitches. Density is always set at twice the normal as you mentioned. As Jeff said, use the same color foam as the thread, and you should get a pretty neat job. If any foam is left, a hair dryer will do the trick. Unless you know how to digitize, it would be easier to buy a pre-made alphabet already done for puff embroidery. Embroidery Library Projects will show you how it works and they also have alphabets for sale if that is what you need.


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

Adrian, Not sure about the 3D button (mal)function but maybe it's an optional feature in your software, though I'm not a Wilcom user.

I have tried this before (and failed) it's not really easy to do this double-density-satin stitches. I noted that the satin stitches should go over all part of the foam but on the outside only, otherwise you'll cut the foam in some parts where you don't want them. After hours of failure, I ended up subbing out the digitizing outside. I'd surely want to hear about your progress here as I might try this again if I get some free time. Good luck!


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## Madrod (Jun 27, 2007)

i do 3d all the time when i digitize i at least double the stitch count. i use a hold down stitch down the center of the design. also i do not use underlay and let the needle cut the foam. when its done i use a heat gun to shrink the foam and suck any foam nubs in. the hair dryer didnt give me enough heat. also dont forget to cap any ends so the foam gets cut in those areas. hope this helps a little.


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## dj3sports (Jun 12, 2008)

When sewing 3d you also wanna make sure you keep the speed lower on the machine. It may take longer but less needle breaks. Trail and error is the best way to figure out the stitching. The color of the foam doesnt really matter, but i usually just use white or black foam from hobby lobby. You may also wanna tape the foam to the hat until the designs starts then your fingers arent near it. Good luck and remeber slow is smooth


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## BML Builder (Jul 8, 2008)

I don't know about the Wilcom program, but my 3D button on my Melco is not for sewing the puff designs with the foam, but just for showing the design sewn out and not just the design stitches or colors. There is not a button for creating the puff designs, you just have to do as others have said just use a satin stitch at double the density and stitches. I also use a little bit of temporary adhesive spray to hold the foam down on the material before it starts sewing. I too just use the craft foam from Walmart or a craft store. And as long as you have double the stitches and use the heat gun or a 1875 watt hair dryer or higher you do not need the specific color of foam to match the thread. 

Marilyn


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## vintageemb (Aug 6, 2012)

To keep the foam from sticking out of the ends is easier then doing the hair dryer thing. In your design add small "corks" at each end. If your stitches are horizontal add a small row of vertical stitch at the ends. Put these stitches under the normal horizontal stitches to hide them.


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## nalob (Jun 23, 2011)

Also make sure you loosen up the tensions on your thread.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

You realize this thread is from 3 1/2 years ago?


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## inobu (Dec 29, 2010)

LOL.......


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## nalob (Jun 23, 2011)

Lol. Didn't notice just seen it on the recent posts.


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## Jcrrep (Nov 21, 2013)

Madrod said:


> i do 3d all the time when i digitize i at least double the stitch count. i use a hold down stitch down the center of the design. also i do not use underlay and let the needle cut the foam. when its done i use a heat gun to shrink the foam and suck any foam nubs in. the hair dryer didnt give me enough heat. also dont forget to cap any ends so the foam gets cut in those areas. hope this helps a little.


Will work with any alphabet? 
What about the center line on each letter?


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## cmdslick (Apr 4, 2007)

The only aspect to digitizing that is different from normal embroidery is to use end caps. A small satin stitch placed perpendicular to the first satin stitch and under it at the end of the stitches to perforate and cover the end where it would normally be open. Hope that helps.


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## PCFM (Sep 17, 2014)

Hi Everyone,

There are some relevant information about embroidery 3D Foam (PUFF).

There is a video and also a sample file to download.

Take your designs to the next level with 3D Foam!

I hope it's going to help you...


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

tfalk said:


> You realize this thread is from 3 1/2 years ago?


Up to 5 years old now....


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## enewbold (Oct 17, 2010)

I received a "bad link" notofication when I tried to visit the page referenced in the previous message.

Ed in Columbus, OH


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