# Curing Water Based Ink in Home Oven



## sdickerson (Jan 28, 2010)

Ok, I've searched these forums up and down looking for an answer. I've read countless threads about curing water based inks which all seem to turn to curing plastisol. So I'm breaking down and starting a thread.

I'm looking for anyone with experience in curing water based inks in a home oven. I've seen everything from 500˚ for 30 seconds to 200˚ for 5 mins. I understand that all the water must be evaporated before the cure can take place.

I'm using Enviro Water Based Opaque White Ink from Ryonet and curing with a heat gun which can take a long time on a large print. 

I have an electric oven with a variable temp broiler as well as a convection setting to circulate the air within the oven. 

Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to buy a conveyor dryer anytime in the near future. 

Thanks in advance! I look forward to learning a lot more here on T-Shirt Forums.


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## Uncle John (Mar 11, 2007)

Water based ink is just that, if you put it on a coat hanger and let it air dry your done.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Uncle John said:


> Water based ink is just that, if you put it on a coat hanger and let it air dry your done.


The 301 Enviro-Series ink must be cured for 2.5 to 3 minutes at 300 to 320 degrees F under typical infrared heat.


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## Uncle John (Mar 11, 2007)

Richard, all I'm saying is when the ink is dry it won't wash out. John


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## Guest (Feb 14, 2010)

i would be afraid of fire. i cure mine with a cheap heat press i got off ebay. works great with plastisol too!


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Uncle John said:


> Richard, all I'm saying is when the ink is dry it won't wash out. John


All I'm saying is I don't agree. The spec says heat the ink to cure it.

He's not using an ink with an epoxizer or catalyst that will air dry like Union Ink Aerotex.
Aerotex Water-Based Textile Inks


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## sdickerson (Jan 28, 2010)

Uncle John said:


> Richard, all I'm saying is when the ink is dry it won't wash out. John


First off thanks for the reply. 

I printed a test shirt with several prints some of which I allowed to air dry for five days and other prints that I cured using a heat gun. I washed the shirt and as expected the air dried prints washed right out leaving only an outline of the original print while the heat cured prints held fast. 

I understand that some water based inks have an additive that can be mixed in to allow for air drying but the current ink I'm using does not. 

Thanks again for all the quick replies but still looking for that answer!


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## Uncle John (Mar 11, 2007)

OK, I guess all inks are differant.


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## rudi (Mar 7, 2007)

Uncle John said:


> Water based ink is just that, if you put it on a coat hanger and let it air dry your done.


Ha ha, if only it was that easy.


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## inkwerks (Jun 29, 2008)

Are you eating out of that oven? That should be the question. The ink is going to off gas and be deposited all over your oven. So your next meal might taste a little funky.


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## mattgmann (Feb 2, 2010)

I can attest that improperly cured water based inks will wash out.

Try union aerotex ink. I've had success with it. It has a catalyst you can add for air drying. I Normally hit it with a heat gun for a few seconds so it doesn't smudge, then hang on a rack to dry.

Using a home oven sucks and is a pain in the ***. The aerotex ink isn't the best ink ever, but it's still quite good, and is easy to cure.


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## tjolley2000 (Sep 23, 2010)

I am looking to see if anyone can comment on using a standard (plastisol) curing oven on water based ink prints... I would like to dabble in water base as it is a big trend right now, but I don't want to drop the $$$ on an infrared curing oven at the moment. Also, when using water based or discharge, do you ever need to flash? I have a professional blackbody oven and a flash unit, neither infrared. Any help?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Curing Water Based Ink with Infra Red panels*



tjolley2000 said:


> I am looking to see if anyone can comment on using a standard (plastisol) curing oven on water based ink prints...
> 
> I would like to dabble in water base as it is a big trend right now, but I don't want to drop the $$$ on an infrared curing oven at the moment.
> 
> ...


*I assume* you have a BBC Industries oven and flash unit made in Pacific, MO, west of Saint Louis. They use their own "Black Body" brand infra red panels. Black Body/BBC Industries Inc.

Textile ink resins require heat to fuse them to your garments. Plastisol is 100% solids - nothing evaporates - so what you print is what what you get. 

Water-based inks are 80% liquids, so your final print is 20% of the ink you actually printed. When you decide to work with water-based inks, you quickly study and learn that every part of the process is more work, and takes longer.

Evaporating all that liquid *AND THEN* heating the resin to 300F takes much more time than heating plastisol ink to 300F.

Heat is heat. Your ink doesn't know the source, but convection DRYERS remove moisture better than OVENS that only use Infra Red panels.

*Homework*
Flashing http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t115808.html#post679783

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t114704.html#post673597 Read the whole thread.


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## boavidamaria (Jan 6, 2014)

sdickerson said:


> First off thanks for the reply.
> 
> I printed a test shirt with several prints some of which I allowed to air dry for five days and other prints that I cured using a heat gun. I washed the shirt and as expected the air dried prints washed right out leaving only an outline of the original print while the heat cured prints held fast.
> 
> ...


hello,
this was quite long ago, so you probably have some answer now, but anyway, just in case, i've tested home oven to cure water based inks, and so far it's what works best for me:

- after screen printed and air dried, you put the fabric(s) in a well closed aluminum foil package - shining size outside!
- you put the oven to 180º, wait that the oven actually reaches that temperature (usually a light turns off as a warning), then turn it off;
- put the aluminum packages in, close the door, and count 15min;
- then take them out - once you open the aluminum, you see all the steam coming out of the fabric - so you know the water is finally leaving!
- repeat the steps if you have a big amount of fabric. (usually i make 15min, open the foil, change position of the fabric + 15min, just to be sure)

i hope this helps!
maria


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## StinkEye Dave (Jan 27, 2012)

boavidamaria said:


> hello,
> this was quite long ago, so you probably have some answer now, but anyway, just in case, i've tested home oven to cure water based inks, and so far it's what works best for me:
> 
> - after screen printed and air dried, you put the fabric(s) in a well closed aluminum foil package - shining size outside!
> ...


I found this post by looking back for advice, others will too and the advice above is definitely not to be followed! Foil packages? 15 mins?! I'm surprised your tees came out in one piece and your print will definitely be over cured, that is 5 times the recommendation.

If using your oven air dry for 24-48 hours or dry with heat gun then oven at relevant temperature, say 160c for 3 mins (I gave mine 4 before it passed wash test). No foil parcel (Especially if you think there's still water in the ink), just place on heat proof/baking paper.


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