# Black graphics print Brown



## gadgetsboy (Sep 1, 2009)

Hi
Forgive me if this is obvious but its driving me mad. It appears that i dont seem to be able to print black for sublimation. I am using Adobe Photoshop cs3, an epson 1270 with cis and rotech inks. if i print my images to the standard ink printer they look great but when sent to the sublimation inked printer all colours look perfect except black which comes out Brown everytime. I have a feeling from some posts i have read that i need an ISS profile but dont really understand what one is or were to get one from.


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## uncletee (Feb 25, 2007)

try using the black ink only setting in your printer, see what happens. you might have contaminated ink. good luck


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

If it's not the ink it maybe the colors or mode in your file. If your image is in CMYK mode then the color profile maybe using not enough black ink to produce the black color. You can check the values in photoshop using the info window.


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## conde tech (Nov 15, 2007)

Have you checked your settings? What substrate are you using and what temp/time/pressure are you using. Black is the hardest color to sublimate and the last color to sublimate. Most itme are pressed at 400 degrees. Check you heat press and make sure it reaches a true 400 degress. Using a laser gun is not good enough. I recommend a candy them.


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## raygold (Aug 13, 2009)

When you use the black color it ALLWAYS mix's with the yellow make sure you are not having problems with the yellow ink supply.
Good luck
AllaPS
Try RGB setting


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## oneeyedjack (Mar 7, 2007)

Like Red said check and make sure your not printing in CMYK as somehow in photoshop it got switched to CMYK and the blacks were coming out brown.

Gary


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## gadgetsboy (Sep 1, 2009)

Hi all and many thanks for your replys.

Uncletee- tried black & white profile when printing and black is perfect.

red514- tried printing the same graphic using rgb and cmyk profiles and the results are the same. dont really know what to look for in the info window

conde tech- im using sublisoft tshirts from hometogifts at 400deg (measures 396) for 80secs 

raygold- what problems am i checking for? i have tried emptying the yellow and black, flushing and refilling with new ink but all the same


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## raygold (Aug 13, 2009)

Hi
I only PRESS for 45 Seconds check my web page and look at the ladies T's it has printing on it in assorted colors you can see the black is black and believe or not that is useing Chinese ink at A$40 for 600 ml just over a pint

ARs Personalized Gifts, All gifts designed by you.

Thank you
Allan Williams


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## oneeyedjak (Feb 15, 2009)

80 secs would be to long for pressing.Try 55-60 secs light -medium pressure.


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## TexSub (Aug 27, 2007)

I agree. 80 sec way too long. Pressing too long can turn black into brownish black. Try the 50-60 seconds. Are you using Sawgrass inks? SG black inks are famous for changing color when pressed too long.


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## TJLewis (Jul 26, 2005)

gadgetsboy said:


> I have a feeling from some posts i have read that i need an ISS profile but dont really understand what one is or were to get one from.


Did you not get a profile with the inks? It's called an ICC profile and you'll need to be using one with Rotech inks to get the colours right.

Justin


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## gadgetsboy (Sep 1, 2009)

TJLewis said:


> Did you not get a profile with the inks? It's called an ICC profile and you'll need to be using one with Rotech inks to get the colours right.
> 
> Justin


Hi Justin 
no didnt. I thought that may be the problem. I have just tried pressing for 45secs and i have to agree the print looks much better and the colors fuller but the black is still brown. I then picked an image that was black and white and printed it using the normal profile and the print itself is noticably brown before pressing. Were would i get an ICC profile for Rotech inks?


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## TJLewis (Jul 26, 2005)

I may have a profile but it would be for the 1290, not sure what colour config yours is, is it a 6 colour printer? Otherwise, where did you get the inks from?

Justin


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## h2opromedia (May 18, 2009)

I've been messing with this a bit myself. My blacks aren't always truely black and get a bit brownish colored. 

I've been messing with my pressure setting on the press thinking that may be it.

I have noticed I get the best print and get the truest black color to press to the shirt by using the print setting of letting the printer choose the color profiles (color handling). I've tried CMYK, RGB and do not get as good of a black as when I let the printer choose the color profiles.

I am using CS3 too. Also on my print settings, there is a checkbox under the "scaled print size" settings area that says Match Print Colors. I noticed that I get a better print and more true to color print when that is unchecked.

I also put my paper type to - photo paper glossy and use best photo for the quality. Switching to photo paper glossy paper setting seemed to help me get better quality prints.

Hope this helps some! Curious to hear back because I am having same problem but my black is not really that bad, it is passable as black but sometimes I do get a dark brown tint.

Best Regards,
Ken


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## raygold (Aug 13, 2009)

gadgetsboy said:


> Hi
> Forgive me if this is obvious but its driving me mad. It appears that i dont seem to be able to print black for sublimation. I am using Adobe Photoshop cs3, an epson 1270 with cis and rotech inks. if i print my images to the standard ink printer they look great but when sent to the sublimation inked printer all colours look perfect except black which comes out Brown everytime. I have a feeling from some posts i have read that i need an ISS profile but dont really understand what one is or were to get one from.


Hi Mark

Have you tried using "SAWGRASS POWER DRIVER" THERE IS QUITE A FEW SETTINGS IN IT YOU CAN PLAY AROUND WITH I FIND IT QUITE USEFULL, you can download it for free of SAWGRASS

Allan


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## gadgetsboy (Sep 1, 2009)

TJLewis said:


> I may have a profile but it would be for the 1290, not sure what colour config yours is, is it a 6 colour printer? Otherwise, where did you get the inks from?
> 
> Justin


Hi Justin
My printer is a 1290, dont know what made me type 1270  (i have sent PM with my email address if you dont mind sending the profile. I bought the printer and 1L of each ink from a friend who had started up and then very early on he injured himself in a car accident and could not continue. I also got a complete setup inc cutter/plotter heat press seperate cup press and a multitude of blanks. Raygold - I have downloaded S powerdriver and if the profile doesnt cure it i will have a play and see what it can do. Ken - will get back to you with the results of each case but maybee S powerdriver may be worth a try yourself

Mark


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

I use the ricoh gx-7000 and get rich blacks.
I can not get a dark blue tho. 
I have tried the powerdrive and icc and still no dark blue like I need. Black tho is great. Better than the prints I got from a outsource printed job on a Epson 44" printer.

I used a HIX temp thingy. Name escapes me and I have been pressing at about 360-365 for 55 secs and the blacks are great looking.

Good luck. This color thing has me going nuts myself.

Mark


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## raygold (Aug 13, 2009)

I was messing around this morning trying to get some specific shapes and fonts to do some subs. I finally tried plain old Microsoft Word and i couldn't believe it the prints turned out great, never thought of using it before. 

Allan


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

hmm I might try that for my blue problem.
Never thought if it either.

Thanks
Mark


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## mn shutterbug (Mar 19, 2009)

I had the same problem with mugs. My blacks were dark or blotchy brown. I found out that I was pressing for too long. A Conde tech informed that if pressed too long, the ink can start desublimating. Once I cut back on the time, the black came out almost perfect.


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## gadgetsboy (Sep 1, 2009)

Dont think thats my problem My blacks look Brown on the Paper before pressing. I am sure now that i just need a profile for the 1290 so if anyone has one i would appretiate them posting it or emailing it to gadgetsboy (AT) ntlworld.com


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## dt (Aug 12, 2007)

HI mark,

My black was brown before but i founded by coincidence a true black.

I'm mostly a corel user but i'm sure you can find it in illustrator i use now pantone S325-1 
I founded it in process color palette so try to use all black spot colot or PANTONE color palette or anything like it but not a custom color even if it's 0 0 0 100. 
I had your problem for 3 years and i tried everything even alingment of head nothing work and now
my black is black...

I hope it will work for you.


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## TJLewis (Jul 26, 2005)

Did you not get my emails gadgetsboy?


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## Mistyblu (Oct 21, 2007)

Hi I have this problem with mugs- 4 lines of text 2 are dark brown 2 are black? I press at 200 for 3.50 mins. I place the mug in the press the right way up and it is the top 2 lines that are dark brown the other 2 lines of text (towards bottom of mug) are black? Am I over or under pressing?


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## mn shutterbug (Mar 19, 2009)

Maggie, it sounds to me like your mugs aren't geometrically perfect. Have you tried putting a mug in the other way, and see if it's the same 2 lines? It just sounds like the pressure isn't the same all the way around the mug.


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## doichantran (Dec 13, 2009)

Hi, I having the same problem gadgetsboy. I using Epson R230 printer with CISS. My black also is brown and blue is too dark. I tried to adjust color management on printer setting, but printing performance still not good. If anyone know how to fix it. Pls. help us!


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## mn shutterbug (Mar 19, 2009)

Bee Tees, cut back on your sublimation time. If in the press too long, blacks will start to desublimate and turn back to brown. Too much press time is also probably the reason your blues are turning black. Black is the first color to start sublimating.


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## Rhinestones fun (Nov 4, 2009)

I agree, I've found that my mugs "desublimate too when I put in the press to long. They either turn brown or the text becomes very blurry. Only solves the problem if the color is brown after sublimating.

Only for powerdriver users, if I can't get a color that I want on the mug I normally use the color sure palette. I print a bunch of colors similar to the one I want, probably use about 10-20 step difference to print the custom palette. Then sublimate the palette to the mug, then choose the color that most resembles the one you want that is already sublimated on the mug and change the color in the file to the specific rgb value that is written below the color you choose on the mug.

Allan - if you could get better color with microsoft word, the reason for that is probably your graphic software (photoshop or CorelDraw) has the wrong color settings for sublimation. If it works in microsoft word, then you can probably replicate the same result by turning off color management in your graphics software as I don't think MS word has any color management capabilities.


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## BestBordados+ (Feb 26, 2010)

Hi Guys!

Look.. I use Mac, illustrator CS4 .. in RGB, the profile is RGB 1998 (or some thing like that) I dont use any ICC profile. i found that there are a difference when i print from photoshop and illustrator... i preffer the output when i use illustrator with the settings i wrote before.

I also use plain laser/inkjet printer bond paper.. and it works very good with textiles. My inks are from china.. my printer is an Epson R290 (latin american model i think) and i set black R:0 G:0 B:0

The prints always are like faded... but when sublimate the results are quite well..
I only have some problems with some especific logo colors... that some times dont match as good as is should... also using the same settings, ink and paper i do have some problems working with ceramic mugs... in that case.. the final output is not as sharp and gloss finish as i want.

Well i hope this help...
Best Regards!


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