# Printing 82% Nylon/18% Spandex Wrestling Singlets



## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

I've never printed Wrestling Singlets, but I guess I'm going to....and SOON!

They are Aisics brand Black Singlets *82% Nylon and 18% **Spandex. *

I stock all manner of plastisols and also Matsui 301 Waterbased inks. I also have used International Coatings 900 Catalyst W/plastisol for Nylons, (and should have a fresh batch of Catalyst today) but the garments I've actually printed weren't as stretchy as a singlet.

Instinctively, I don't think Waterbased Inks are right for this job, but I'm open to the idea. 

Oh, and shrinking in the Conveyer....is that going to bite me??? We replaced and reprinted a set of polyester Dri-fit once, customer claiming they shrank in our drier. Maybe so....

Stan


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## LegendsGraphics (Mar 15, 2010)

You need special inks for the nylon, with activators to compensate for the low temperature you are doing to run your oven at. Call Davis International or Nazdar Source One and ask them for the specifics.


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## Git-Bit (Oct 23, 2009)

Not positive, but I think most are dye sublimating those now.


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## papermama (Mar 6, 2010)

We have had some clients ask about these as well. Any good wholesale suppliers? 

Can't wait to hear what works for you!

Best,
Jephtha
Paper Mama


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## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

Stan, if the tops are light coloured you may want to look into sublimation. 
If you have a heat press on premises you should be able to order dye-sub transfers and press them yourself. 

Of course, the fabric would need to be tested before you do the lot, but with 18% Spandex the tops will be quite stretchy and if the design is dyed into the garment the print will look better and last longer than any other printing method. 
When we print on this type of fabric, we pre-shrink it before printing to avoid ghosting.


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

If you're doing black singlets, I'd stick with a high quality athletic plastisol with good elongation and a nylon additive. I do track stuff like this on a regular basis, and it's a SERIOUS pain, not only to print, but because of the unusually high cost of replacing any misprints...


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

I printed the job with wilflex plastisol and 25% stretch additive, through 156 mesh, double stroked, no flash..seemed OK. I tugged and yanked on the cured ink and it seemed to adhere. I did not do a wash test.


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## mromero29 (Jan 10, 2012)

Stan, our company prints athletic apparel everyday... I am confident with your approach of regular plastisol and stretch additive. The only thing I would have done different was to use a 110 screen (or 80), pre-flash the garment to allow it to shrink/move prior to the first stroke/flash(quick)/stroke. BTW, a few ink manufacturers produce athletic inks that are more opaque. An athletic ink and stretch additive works great for spandex.


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

Sounds good--did you measure before and after dryer to see if they drew up?

We usually run a quarter inch or so, which as I understand it is pretty good for a crappy IR dryer.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

ScreenFoo said:


> Sounds good--did you measure before and after dryer to see if they drew up?
> 
> We usually run a quarter inch or so, which as I understand it is pretty good for a crappy IR dryer.


Really? Why would a gas dryer shrink less?

Yes, I measured lengthwise (vertical) on an XL Singlet before and after curing. I measured from the end of one leg to the shortest measurement at the "cut-out" around the neck area, while on the belt. Then I measured on exit from the dryer, just before falling into the catch basket....but still pretty hot. All these singlets got a light flash after printing however, to avoid spoiling the image when unloading. They are so "springy" I couldn't get them unloaded without a rubber-band like effect.

The result?? It shrank okay, but only a tiny bit. Not nearly a quarter inch. An eighth inch would certainly cover it. 

I have several IR Temp guns, since I don't have a doughnut style temp sensor (too expensive for me) and the temp range while shot under the center of the last IR heating element didn't exceed 350 by much. Maybe 355... They were probably actually under heat around 60 seconds. 


Stan

Additional info:
My only dryer is a Harco (Brown Manufacturing) 11' conveyor infra-red with all brand new exhaust fans....just FYI. Chamber is 6 feet and that is REALLY a tight fit...to properly cure Waterbased Discharge!!! But it can be done. I do it every week. It's just like walking a tightrope, to get a complete cure on EVERY shirt, without scorching. That's why I have 3 IR temp guns at the output end of my conveyor. They all vary just a smidge and I am constantly studying to get the right speed/temp/airflow combination. We have a washer and dryer at the back end of the shop too, and we use it!


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

Stan Hoover said:


> Really? Why would a gas dryer shrink less?



Forced air, and lots of it.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

ScreenFoo said:


> Forced air, and lots of it.


Maybe I misunderstood you. Does a gas dryer *shrink* garments less than an Infrared Dryer was my specific question. You seemed to suggest that, right?


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, an IR dryer is only going to heat up the top of the garment and the top of the ink film, while a gas dryer heats the AIR, and circulates it.

It's kinda like the difference between a convection oven and a broiler. More of the mass of the garment heats evenly, instead of the top just "browning" 

All I know for sure though, is that the guy down the street with a huge gas dryer NEVER has scorching problems, while we babysit our IR dryer. I'm jealous.


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