# Big Embroidering Problem



## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

Recently I just bought a Brother se400 just to do some simple embroidering for my clothing line. I was going to do just blank shirts with a tiny icon of my company on the chest pocket area. Well I gave it a go today and well it looks horrible. I even tryd some of the stock designs the machine has and even those look horrible.

I embroidered a shirt first and then started doing it on a wash rag to practice but it didnt get any better. 

First is the stock design
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116202&stc=1&d=1414440120

Then my logo
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116210&stc=1&d=1414440120

and this is what my logo should actually look like
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116218&stc=1&d=1414440120


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## simcap (Feb 13, 2014)

Did you get it digitised or do it yourself?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

You are using a hoop and stabilizer, right?


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

simcap said:


> Did you get it digitised or do it yourself?


I did the digitizing in embird. Which it wasnt perfectly the same shapes but it should have at least filled better than what it did.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

splathead said:


> You are using a hoop and stabilizer, right?


I did use a hoop but I didnt use stabilizer. I'm thinking that might have been my problem?


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## simcap (Feb 13, 2014)

As asked above, did you use stabiliser? If so, how many sheets? Also, I find how ever small/easy you think the image is, it always looks better done by a professional. What does the other side look like? Is it also a mess?


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## simcap (Feb 13, 2014)

Also did you use a satin stitch?


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

No offense but even with the appropriate stabilizer, I think that file will stitch terribly. Nowhere near enough density, the underlay isn't even under the top stitching. Then again, that's how we all learn 

And yes, the first time I tried to digitize something, it looked pretty close to that so don't think I'm beating up on you 

The logo itself will be very difficult to reproduce in thread - the 'split ends' will be virtually impossible to reproduce. You 'might' have a 'chance' with 60 weight but even then I'm not convinced.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

I did not use stabilizer. And I know getting it done by a professional would look better but the price to embroider 1 batch of shirts came out to be close to $300 So I figured why not invest that into the machine and teach myself.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

tfalk said:


> No offense but even with the appropriate stabilizer, I think that file will stitch terribly. Nowhere near enough density, the underlay isn't even under the top stitching. Then again, that's how we all learn
> 
> And yes, the first time I tried to digitize something, it looked pretty close to that so don't think I'm beating up on you
> 
> The logo itself will be very difficult to reproduce in thread - the 'split ends' will be virtually impossible to reproduce. You 'might' have a 'chance' with 60 weight but even then I'm not convinced.


Do you know any tutorials or anything to teach me how to digitize properly? or even a site where I can pay someone a cheap price to digitalize it for me? The way I did it was simply outline the LA and then just hit generate stitches. Also I know I wont be able to get the design to look just like that the split ends would be hard to duplicate I just need a simple LA logo which I have others with all smooth edges.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

I was using PE-Design when I first started so I googled PE-Design tutorials, found a site that looked promising, bought their tutorials and went from there. If you want to learn 'hands-on' another way is to take something that you know stitches well, watch how it stitches, then try to recreate it as close as possible.

I do not use Embird but I've seen enough posts on forums to believe that there are hundreds of tutorials available for it. I'm pretty sure there is also a yahoo group for it. There are plenty of cheap digitizers that usually troll this board, I'd be very surprised if you haven't been spammed by at least one of them by now.

You could also post something on this site in the referrals forum or browse there for digitizers... If I had the time, I'd take a stab at it but I'm swamped at the moment.


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## Imagine It Vinyl (Aug 28, 2013)

Spend the $15-$20 and have it professionally digitized!


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

tfalk said:


> I was using PE-Design when I first started so I googled PE-Design tutorials, found a site that looked promising, bought their tutorials and went from there. If you want to learn 'hands-on' another way is to take something that you know stitches well, watch how it stitches, then try to recreate it as close as possible.
> 
> I do not use Embird but I've seen enough posts on forums to believe that there are hundreds of tutorials available for it. I'm pretty sure there is also a yahoo group for it. There are plenty of cheap digitizers that usually troll this board, I'd be very surprised if you haven't been spammed by at least one of them by now.
> 
> You could also post something on this site in the referrals forum or browse there for digitizers... If I had the time, I'd take a stab at it but I'm swamped at the moment.


Yeah I had a few people message me about digitizing. But I have also been looking online and a lot of forums all lead to fiverr where people do it for 5-10$ Thinking about going that route


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

How about this. Will this be a better logo for embroidering? 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116346&stc=1&d=1414526713


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

That version would ABSOLUTELY be a better option... what size are you looking for?


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## marzatplay (May 25, 2014)

1. Get a pro digitizer to do it. Not fiver. This is only a one time cost and an investment into your business.

2. The second logo is easier to digitize and embroider.

3. What you call stabolizer, I call backing. On left chest logos I use 2 layers of medium weight cut away backing.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

tfalk said:


> That version would ABSOLUTELY be a better option... what size are you looking for?


very small its just going to be a small spot on the chest pocket area. probably about 1.5 tall and 1.2 wide maybe smaller


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

marzatplay said:


> 1. Get a pro digitizer to do it. Not fiver. This is only a one time cost and an investment into your business.
> 
> 2. The second logo is easier to digitize and embroider.
> 
> 3. What you call stabolizer, I call backing. On left chest logos I use 2 layers of medium weight cut away backing.


Well the one guy on fiver is a professional. and his portfolio shows it. The only reason I was thinking fiver is so far everyone else wants to charge 20$ but none of them care about the size fiver. for something smaller than 1.5 by 1.5 its only 5$ thats why I was thinking that might not be a bad idea. and note taken on the backing. I will be going and getting some of this tomorrow. What type of thread would you recomend and bobbin


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## marzatplay (May 25, 2014)

Isacord or Madeira thread and Coates bobbins.


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## selzler (Apr 4, 2007)

You can try any one you want $5 great price if it don't workout then rethink and use some one that charges more and can do it right seen a lot of these cheep designs and customers are mad when what they bought sew out bad then they are willing to pay us for a good setup.


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## drdoct (Jul 26, 2011)

So you just tried to auto digitize it in Embird? yeah that doesn't work too well. Especially on fonts like that. It's the same with vinyl. Those distressed fonts or sketched types don't work out much. Especially when it's small. Needle, thread, and lockstiches take up space. My first Embroidery machine (that started the whole thing) was a brother 280d. The low end Brother machines are really home use. Not great stitching or clean. I moved up to a Husqvarna and it was much nicer looking in the results. With that machine you always want to use stabilizer or backing. It doesn't have to be name brand. A medium weight cutaway should work fine. Always hoop it and the shirt. It keeps the shirt moving with the machine. Even the smallest wrong move and it'll look bad. Keep doing throwaways until you get it down. These machines are slow but everyone has to start somewhere. Good luck on your line. If you need help feel free to pm me.


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## saidigitizinguk (Jul 7, 2014)

hi,

try this one i think there is density problem in you digitizing
i did and attached check this one

thanks


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

selzler said:


> You can try any one you want $5 great price if it don't workout then rethink and use some one that charges more and can do it right seen a lot of these cheep designs and customers are mad when what they bought sew out bad then they are willing to pay us for a good setup.


Well im back..... I went and got medium weight stabalizer. I use 1 piece when I did this embroidering. Also I went to a local embroidering store and the lady digitized it for me. I ran it and didnt like how it looked so I went back and she made some changes but to me it still doesnt look good. Can you guys tell me if its the digitization making it look like this or my own error some how!!!

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119074&stc=1&d=1415750752

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119082&stc=1&d=1415750752


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## TenMileThreads (Nov 11, 2014)

Lightsaliveappar said:


> Well im back..... I went and got medium weight stabalizer. I use 1 piece when I did this embroidering. Also I went to a local embroidering store and the lady digitized it for me. I ran it and didnt like how it looked so I went back and she made some changes but to me it still doesnt look good. Can you guys tell me if its the digitization making it look like this or my own error some how!!!
> 
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119074&stc=1&d=1415750752
> 
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119082&stc=1&d=1415750752


Could be your bobbin tension making it look that way. But, if you send me the file she digitized i can try to look at it. I'm not a professional but thats not really the most intricate logo.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

TenMileThreads said:


> Could be your bobbin tension making it look that way. But, if you send me the file she digitized i can try to look at it. I'm not a professional but thats not really the most intricate logo.


I wasnt sure how to send you it so I just uploaded it to DropBox
here is the dst. file
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yfmwj8ne81vdvfi/la2.DST?dl=0


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

There's nothing wrong with that dst file. It should run just fine. Densities are pretty good for a knit shirt. The underlays are a little odd. On the top point of the A it could use an edgerun in addition to the double zigzag. In fact, I would add an edgerun underlay in the circle as well. And I'd add a touch more pull comp to all of the satins. 

I think on that material you also needed a topping. That would greatly improve the edge definition. 

Leave the design alone while you experiment. 

Run one with an additional piece of backing.
Make sure the material is taught but not stretched.
Run another with a topping like solvy.

And upload a picture of the backside so we can see the tensions better. Run a sample with a thread color that contrasts with the material and the bobbin thread, something like red or orange. Then put up a picture of the backside.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

Liberty said:


> There's nothing wrong with that dst file. It should run just fine. Densities are pretty good for a knit shirt. The underlays are a little odd. On the top point of the A it could use an edgerun in addition to the double zigzag. In fact, I would add an edgerun underlay in the circle as well. And I'd add a touch more pull comp to all of the satins.
> 
> I think on that material you also needed a topping. That would greatly improve the edge definition.
> 
> ...



alright so I went out and bought new thread this made a big difference on its own. But here is the front and back with new thread. 

Keep in mine the small grey spot on the right or the circle was my bad. the thread got stuck so the machine stopped.


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## TenMileThreads (Nov 11, 2014)

Lightsaliveappar said:


> alright so I went out and bought new thread this made a big difference on its own. But here is the front and back with new thread.
> 
> Keep in mine the small grey spot on the right or the circle was my bad. the thread got stuck so the machine stopped.


I opened the file and can't directly edit it but it looks just about perfect. Don't know why you're getting those threads sticking out on the sides. Try to lower the speed and tighten up the bobbin tension just a very little bit. 2 pieces of backing. Trial and error just tweak settings til it goes smooth. If that is metallic thread that could be the problem too.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

I stitched out the file you sent me on a piece of fleece and it's pretty much dead on. I think at this point you have a tension problem with your machine. The easiest way to set up the tension on the machine is to stitch out satin columns and adjust the bobbin and upper thread tension until you get almost perfect thirds - 1/3 upper, 1/3 bobbin, 1/3 upper going side to side. Another thing to try is a FOX test - the letters FOX test the pantograph in all directions... if you can get the tension correct for that, you should be OK for just about anything.

If you can't find these type of files, let me know and I can send them to you.


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## Lightsaliveappar (Jan 1, 2013)

tfalk said:


> I stitched out the file you sent me on a piece of fleece and it's pretty much dead on. I think at this point you have a tension problem with your machine. The easiest way to set up the tension on the machine is to stitch out satin columns and adjust the bobbin and upper thread tension until you get almost perfect thirds - 1/3 upper, 1/3 bobbin, 1/3 upper going side to side. Another thing to try is a FOX test - the letters FOX test the pantograph in all directions... if you can get the tension correct for that, you should be OK for just about anything.
> 
> If you can't find these type of files, let me know and I can send them to you.


if you could send them that would be great!


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

http://www.cobrapromotionsgroup.com/embfiles/fox1.dst is a single color fox test

http://www.cobrapromotionsgroup.com/embfiles/8needleHtest.dst is an 8 color H test - you can change them all to one color or just stitch them in sequence


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## mwilliams0763 (Feb 18, 2013)

I use Wilcom Digitizing software and I use Happy Embroidery machines and to do your logo is going to be touchy because of the fleece material (that's what it looks like anyway). Use a minimum of 2-3 layers of cut away stabilizer and if you use fleece then you need the dissolveable stabilizer. That lettering is going to be tough anyway to get a quality look but it can be done. You can add a fill stitch on the bottom in case you want to use those exact lettering and it will look much better but you will need to put a circle or square, etc. around it to make it look professional.


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## kokgi (Jun 3, 2008)

For best embroidery result, Do always that: Put double backing. If pique fabric use heavy double backing and hoop tight. Also on thin or polyester fabric use double heavy backing.ALWAYS HOOP FABRIC REAL DRUM TIGHT. Good luck


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