# Sublimating Performance Polyester



## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

This is a continuation of another thread about color shifting. After I fixed that problem and tried to press the sublimation transfers, I discovered that they were cooking my material. I'm positive that this is a temperature/dwell time issue.

I've attached some pictures so you see what I'm talking about. Note the difference in sheen and how the texture is flattened in the circle compared to the outside.

The pictures are of a Zorrel Z500 performance shirt cooked at 385 degrees for 40 seconds using sublijet IQ ink and accuplot paper. I used a cork trivet under the shirt to isolate the press area with light pressure. I got similar results with a Vapor performance shirt.

The material is not your mother's polyester -- in fact, I picked up some of that stuff at the fabric store and it sublimated fine with no shine or press marks visible! Material spun to resemble t-shirt cotton (regular vapor tees) did ok as well. This stuff is spun and woven so that the fibers form capillary tubes and wick moisture away from the body. This guys thesis goes into the gory details. 

I think what's happening is that I'm squishing the air out and fusing the small fibers together -- effectively destroying the very properties I wanted out of the material.

To boot, I'm on my own as I got this reply from the manufacturer:



> Got your e-mail regarding the sublimation issues that you had written to Eric/Matt
> about. Unfortunately it has been a very long time since we did any kind of
> sublimation.
> 
> I currently do not have anyone (including myself) to help you or give any kind of technical help with regards to this matter.


Uh Oh!

The plan -

Others here have run into similar problems and they have suggested to try teflon pillows to reduce the edge marks from the press and to lower the temperature. Since I'm learning that 'lower temperature' can mean almost anything, more experimentation is in order.

I have ordered pillows and have done some preliminary testing with lower temps (340ish). The results were promising but there was still some shine. I'm awaiting more black ink before I try again. Yeah, I blew through a full cartridge of ink. Yeah, this little foray has already cost me over $200 (printer, inks, material, paper).

Can anybody point me to the temperatures that the individual dyes sublimate at? I remember running across this but I can't find the link.


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## cprvh (Jan 23, 2006)

Most dyes will sublimation as low as 325°F. You will of course need to increase the dwell time. Use light pressure as well. Most of the time we just simply let the platten rest on the shirt to prevent press marks.

Cut up the shirt you have and experiement on every possible piece.


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## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

Hi Jose,

I'm printing on Vapor Apparel too - at 200 degrees Centigrade for a minute on medium to light pressure.

You are right - Vapor Basic is easier to press because it doesn't shine.
I often press pink, blue and red Micro Performance inside-out to avoid shine. Teflon sheet is a good idea, or piece of fabric with similar texture to cover your print. 

I haven't printed on Zorrel, but I did print on similar type of t-shirts and it looks to me that your pressure is a little too high. Also, if you need to elevate printing area instead of cork try using something softer like a mouse pad, folded fabric or silicon pad.

Good luck experimenting! I'm sure you'll find a combination of settings that will work perfectly for you!


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Sadly, I think I'm going to have to abandon sublimation for this material. I just cannot keep the material from cooking. Even 15s @340 is causing it to flatten out... with almost NO pressure! Sigh. I'm actually kind of worried that I won't be able to even press transfers reliably on it. I'm going to give the teflon pillows a shot and if it doesn't help matters, I'm out. I may try again if I can find another material that can handle the heat better.

I've got an tilted platen with a -4 degree cold spot right in the middle (I measured with a laser thermometer) to further complicate matters. It's causing unevenness in the sublimation process. I will post some pics tomrrow of 3 transfers done at the same time - one on the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom of the press. Very noticeable difference in color saturation. The difference in pressure is also causing blacker blacks near the bottom. 

So, to recap... I've found it almost impossible to sublimate on the Zorrel Z500 and Z800 performance tees. Note, these are NOT their regular tees. I got the most consistent results and the most vibrant colors pressing with very, very light pressure for 40 secs @370 degrees. The colors really popped. Unfortunately, the heat and pressure collapse the fabric into what resembles a grilled cheese sandwich in texture. Not good.


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## cprvh (Jan 23, 2006)

Jose,

You are using Accuplot, correct? Have you tried a high release paper such as Textprint? If you do not have it on hand, send me an email.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Ron -

Thanks for the head's up on the Texprint. I tried some last night and got much better results. Still not perfect but I'm encouraged that I can get this stuff dialed in.

I was able to significantly reduce the pressure and temperature and still get decent transfers. No messy ghosting either. What a difference!


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

Note that sawgrass does not recommend the TexPrint paper. I found that I needed to use the Epson driver to print the transfer. otherwise the blacks ran all over the place.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

I couldn't get the sawgrass driver to work right so I've been using the epson one. I didn't have to change anything after the paper change and the colors looked ok.


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## cprvh (Jan 23, 2006)

binki said:


> Note that sawgrass does not recommend the TexPrint paper. I found that I needed to use the Epson driver to print the transfer. otherwise the blacks ran all over the place.


That is exactly how you sell more ink!!!


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

I've had some success using a little different methods than described here, so I figured I'd share. I just finished a job of about 20 softball jerseys using the Vapor Performance 4.4 oz shirts. I'm using the Sawgrass PowerDriver XG-8, a R1800 bulk ink system, and TexPrint paper.

I originally had a terrible time with the shine and paper lines. I resolved the shine by using a Teflon pillow and VERY light pressure at 390 for 40 sec. I had to tilt my pallet to get it to work with my clamshell press.

But then the problem I could not resolve was paper lines left where the edge of the paper was being pressed on the shirt. No matter what I tried, I could not get rid of them. Then I realized, if I can't stop them, I would just not let any edges get pressed. So I went to a paper size of 13x18, and used a 12x14 Teflon pillow under the shirt. So there are no edges between the pillow and the press. It has worked great. I was very happy with how the shirts turned out.


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## Eastdsm (Mar 10, 2007)

On your performance T's and the shine/flattening, have you tried washing the material? I haven't fully tested this but I made a few shirts for myself using Jerzee's MOVE poly performance T. I notice a fair amount of flattening/shine when I press them, but the ones I have at home that I've washed a couple of times I have never thought twice about it being messed up. I will check when I get home but I'm wondering if the shrinking that occurs when it washes helps to cure some of this?

Chase


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

I have not seen any difference after washing the garments. Polyester does not shrink much at all, if any. The shine usually comes from the polyester fibers being damaged, and washing doesn't fix it, which what I've seen.


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