# Sewing Contractors - what is the process for getting a custom t-shirt (cut and sew)



## neto45 (Nov 25, 2010)

So basically i'm starting a new clothing line, in the ranks of alternative/ American apparel. What i need help in is basically knowing what i have to do after i get my logo and the exact measurments for The tee. Do i just draw it out and send it to sewing contractors? or do i sew it and then send it? and which are good sewing contractors... 

thanks for the help...


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## michellefanfan (Oct 26, 2009)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

Hi mate,

you don't have to draw it out for the style, send the measurements to your ideal contractors would be fine. What's the logo? to be printed or embroidered? let them know the position+finished size in the t-shirt to be printed or embroidered would be fine. But you have to draw out the logo image w/ high resolution for them to print or digitize.

Just send your logo file+measurements would be enough, let your contractor do the rest work for you, ask them to sew a sample out for your approval, and make a clear explanation to them what's your demand before they do any job for you. 

Good luck!

Bill


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## The Youngin (Nov 26, 2007)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

Shoot me a call, I work with some of the top sewers in the country. The only reason I say to call is because I don't exactly understand what you are asking for and I think that it would be easier to discuss it over the phone. I also think we could easily explain the process to you. Please clarify, I am not a sewing company, just an advocate for a few, but do not want to send you to them without you understanding the lingo and what you are looking to accomplish. 

Shoot me a call,
Jason
4083987255


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*



> I also think we could easily explain the process to you. Please clarify, I am not a sewing company, just an advocate for a few, but do not want to send you to them without you understanding the lingo and what you are looking to accomplish.


It also helps if you can explain the process here. That way, when it's 3AM and someone else with a similar question comes across this post in their research, they can learn by reading without having to call anyone 

Feel free to share the lingo here and any recommended sewing contractors.


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## The Youngin (Nov 26, 2007)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

Ok...
First off, the following are my opinions from past experiences. If anyone has a bad experience with ANYTHING that happens with my recommendations please realize that I have no control or vested stake at with these and intend only to help... I say this because I have had people get upset with my recommendations and take it personally against themselves....

The best Sew House I have ever had the pleasure to work with was SJ Private Label out of San Francisco. The guys there are truly some of the best in the world. Unlike many people they will cut the flats (or butterflies) for me, I transport them to my facility to print them, then they will sew the garment together in pretty much any engineered fashion so the prints fall in specific orientations. 

That being said the process of getting a cut and sew goes pretty much goes like this:

*1) Figure out what you want and need and can afford:
*

 Does your job really require a Cut and sew
Can the project be pulled off using a butterfly from a company like JS Apparel
Who do you want your garment to resemble. (Go the mall buy the garments that fit the way you like them)
Finalize the CONCEPT (not final art, just almost done
Establish a budget and minimum number of shirts you need
*2) Call your Cut and Sew House:
*

They will have a quick phone consultation with you to verify you have completed the upper
They will then prompt you to send them the garments you have bought, that meet your wishes.
*3) Send in your garments and get a Fit sample made:
*

To make a fit sample they unsew your purchased sample, make a pattern from it with the initial changes you asked for.
They will send you a sew out of this original and you will take notes on further changes you are looking to have made.
They will then make you a new pattern compensating for your changes. This most likely will be your final, they will send it you and wait for your approval or changes to repeat the process.
This costs an average of $850
They will give you a cost breakdown on what it costs to make the run
*4) Logistically plan the printing/sewing:
*

Figure out how many garments you will be ordering, pass that by both your printer and seamster
You will need to organize how the cuts will leave the sew house and how they will return.
*5) Sell your stuff

*Hope this was helpful, I will update it with more info soon... I'm a bit pressed for time lately...


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## neto45 (Nov 25, 2010)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

ok if it helps to be a little more explanatory. i want to design my own t shirts. not a print on already made tees, with my logo, specific material, and a specific fit that i want. is what you described above an example of the process/ route that i would take to make it happen?

also, what are "flats"?


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## The Youngin (Nov 26, 2007)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

That is the process to make it happen. The minimum at sj is 100 pieces. 

A flat is the material after they have cut it but before they sew it. It is the individual panels that make up a garment.

Jason


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## neto45 (Nov 25, 2010)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

This costs an average of $850 << why so much. and in regards to measurments do i need to find that or no? 

also i just want to re word what you're saying so i get it. all i have to do is get the shirt in the approximate fit that i want and send it to them with my logo, they will fix it to my specific fit and send it back to me for approval and then final making? is this what you're saying?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*



> This costs an average of $850 << why so much.


Probably because of the time, labor and skill involved. 

Getting your own blank garments made from scratch is not an inexpensive task. That's why it's usually larger companies with bigger budgets that do it 

The rest of us usually get our blanks from existing manufacturers and just relabel them with our own brand tags. There's a great variety of t-shirt blank styles and fits out there to choose from.


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## MarLai (Aug 14, 2008)

*Re: Sewing Contractors*

It wouldn't hurt to provide them with some basic measurements for your size range. I'm assuming you have some specific measurements in mind and that's why you are interested in going the cut & sew route?

At a minimum you should provide them with the lengths otherwise called HPS (high point shoulder length) and the chest widths (lay the shirt out flat and measure across from about 1" below the arm hole opening). The manufacturers pattern maker can then work with those measurements and the sample shirt that you have provided to create the "first" fit sample. I want to emphasize the word first because this can become a frustrating and time consuming process of going back and forth trying to achieve your desired fit. Shipping costs and fit sample costs will begin to mount, but who knows, maybe you will get lucky and they will nail it on the first try.

As Rodney mentioned above - this is not an inexpensive project. If SJ private label only requires a minimum of 100 units you might want to give them a shot because most manufacturers will require 300+.


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## MarLai (Aug 14, 2008)

Just an FYI - I quickly read over SJ Private Labels website and it looks like they will charge you $850.00 to make a single sample shirt - they will basically clone what you send them and will make the changes that you need. The problems is it's up to you to source the fabric, labels, etc and you are also repsonsible for providing them with patterns for the full size range, getting the markers made and all at your own expense.

Here's a quote from their site " 
1. Grading & marker: We direct you to a service that takes your pattern and grades it to the number of sizes you require (usually 4), then they produce production marker that is sent to us. You will now have your pattern computerized for future production. You pay service directly. Fabric: You supply all fabric and trim. We can make recommendations and help you source it.
Labels: You supply all labels; size, content, care and logo/name. We will make recommendations for labels to suit your needs 

There are many other ways of going about getting your shirts made - it doesn't need to be this complicated. You might want to check into some other manufacturers like TQM Apparel, JS Apparel, Intercontex, etc. These companies won't make you source your own fabric or hire your own pattern maker. Good luck to you.


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## The Youngin (Nov 26, 2007)

It sounded like he wanted to get myth measurements and send it out to a seeing contractor. JS is the easiest to get a roughly custom cut and relatively low minimum. The reason why I brought SJ up was because they only have a 100 piece min.
Jason


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## MarLai (Aug 14, 2008)

That's what I figured - in his initial post he asked for good sewing contractors and you gave him one but I think what he meant was a vertical manufacturer that can do it all for him.


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