# Iron All For darks..



## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Hi, gang.. well I just found out New Milford is sending me some samples of the new iron All for darks. looking forward to trying it and of course this will require a video. And remember I do an honest assessment of the product. Even though I am getting the Roland cutter from them as a prize I never ever let that stop me from giving you guys the facts. Several others here have order samples as well and I expect they also will give their assessment of the new product. can't wait to try it. This could change a lot of thing in the way we do dark products and may help increase business. Lou


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

Thanks Lou. I'll be holding my breath.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

I have also ordered some samples...had a long discussion with John, the owner and from that conversation, I am hoping to learn some more.. will keep you posted on my results - good, bad, or indifferent


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## perrolocodesigns (Oct 24, 2006)

Thanks for AGAIN taking one for the tem Lou.

We really do appreciate you.


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

looking foward to this, my IronAll turned up yesterday from New Milford, I pressed my first Tee last night and was amazed ! I followed the tips on Lous IronAll youtube vid instead of thier guide which was to press for 30 seconds ? I feel 30 secs would have totally nuked the t-shirt so I stuck with 350 at 16 secs....anyway Im gonna be posting here lots now and Im closley watching this thread as getting into dark cotton printing is the next step for me, thanks for all the good info people !!


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## kingtee (May 6, 2007)

whats verdict on iron-all dark from new milford


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## VolleyChick (Apr 25, 2006)

Does the transfer have the flakes like the light ones do?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

VolleyChick said:


> Does the transfer have the flakes like the light ones do?


I don't think it is the same type of paper. They call it iron All for darks because it does wjhat iron all does anf that is stretch and I believe the product does not crack. That is about all that compares to the iron all for lights. But when I see it and test it I will let you know as well as others here.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

anxiously awaiting any updates on how this paper does.

Thanks
Mark


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Should be coming any day now./


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Lou !!!! can you provide some comments on the DuraCotton(lights) versus the New IronALL(light)...

...and yes I see you are going to do an evaluation of the IronAll for darks... I can't wait. Am I correct in assuming this is full color so we may use it for photos and multicolored art. My stuff is not conducive to color separation thus screen imprints are not possible.

Throw in a few words as to the difference in 'washability' as compared to the CLC/CLP transfers... I see claims that no or little loss of color result if the correct toners are used because the ink is married to the fiber versus inkjet simply 'painting' the fiber. ...but I also hear that when photos are in question the inkjet gives better results as to detail and resolution.

I am about to make my intial purchase... and DARKs are a + for me! ...and I need to know if I go laser of inkjet or both and which printers to stay away from.

Thank you immensely.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

prometheus said:


> Thanks Lou. I'll be holding my breath.


Lou ... I ... am ... still ... holding ... my ... breath! (The face on my avatar is going to turn blue soon)


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

1/2 the time I am not sure if I am comparing apples to oranges.
I interpret Lou's comment that "...could change a lot of thing in the way we do dark products ..." as: the new IronAll for Darks to be the long awaited answer to print full color on dark garments as white ink ready printers do with the DTG method... am I correct? anyone?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> Lou !!!! can you provide some comments on the DuraCotton(lights) versus the New IronALL(light)...
> 
> ...and yes I see you are going to do an evaluation of the IronAll for darks... I can't wait. Am I correct in assuming this is full color so we may use it for photos and multicolored art. My stuff is not conducive to color separation thus screen imprints are not possible.
> 
> ...


I can't compare to laser as I do not do laser prints. I got my paper and quickly unwrapped it and took a good look at the paper. The first thing is.. there is no flacking. This is a different type of paper. the next thing I did was to make a small tare and pull the backing off a little. then I pulled the vinyl and it S T R E T C H E D>>>> and then went back to shape. That was great. Now on Friday i will do a full color print and then do a wash test. can't wait..


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## VolleyChick (Apr 25, 2006)

Yay, no flakes! Thanks for the update, can't wait to see your results.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Thanks lou, keep us informed. ..... JB


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## jxh112 (Jan 20, 2007)

ooooh i cant waiiit for this


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

This I gotta know about!


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

NicMartel said:


> Lou !!!! can you provide some comments on the DuraCotton(lights) versus the New IronALL(light)...
> 
> ...and yes I see you are going to do an evaluation of the IronAll for darks... I can't wait. Am I correct in assuming this is full color so we may use it for photos and multicolored art. My stuff is not conducive to color separation thus screen imprints are not possible.
> 
> ...


 I try the duracottonHT and they are almost the same with ironall but ironall fade on first wash. Still i'm using ironall with heat transfer ink for better result. I also found out that there is a new printer called Ricoh Gelsprinter, When i read the process its kind of combination of pigment and dyebase ink process. You can search GELSPRINTER process. I will let you know if this printer is great in IRONALL. I gonna buy this printer next week...


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Video almost completed. wife just gave me the shirt out of dryer. very little if any fading. No cracking. hand is fairly soft. I have to shoot final part and edit and then it goes to youtube.. I am impressed. hope you guys are. But this is my test. You may get different results. Hope everyone likes the video. Lou


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Lou....can we assume that when the shirt came off the press it looked/felt good..better that other opaques


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Lou slipped on a banana peel as he was putting on the jewel prize T-Shirt his wife was handing him, and was knocked unconscious... he was rushed to the emergency room and the intern scissored the shirt str8 thru the middle effectively ruining the transfer... thus expect some delay... lol <-- going delirious from the anxiety of the wait!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> Lou slipped on a banana peel as he was putting on the jewel prize T-Shirt his wife was handing him, and was knocked unconscious... he was rushed to the emergency room and the intern scissored the shirt str8 thru the middle effectively ruining the transfer... thus expect some delay... lol <-- going delirious from the anxiety of the wait!


Want to know what happens when you talk too much.. Your video gets too big for Youtube. So I am doing some reshooting this morning.. UGH! 
I was very happy with the results of the test as you will see when i post the video. The transfer is thin so it has very little hand. The colors fades slightly but not bad and absoulty no cracking. I think it looks good. Well time to set up the camera and get working.


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

wow your a cool guy for posting all this great info....Im getting my popcorn ready !


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## HannahKate (Jun 17, 2007)

We also tried the new paper yesterday with good results. The only challenge we encountered was when we attempted to cut it. It doesn't cut like regular transfer paper because of the material it is made from. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to cut such a thin stretchy material? 

I am looking forward to seeing Lou's video. Thanks everybody!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

jamos said:


> wow your a cool guy for posting all this great info....Im getting my popcorn ready !


Yes I am.. LOL


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

HannahKate said:


> We also tried the new paper yesterday with good results. The only challenge we encountered was when we attempted to cut it. It doesn't cut like regular transfer paper because of the material it is made from. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to cut such a thin stretchy material?
> 
> I am looking forward to seeing Lou's video. Thanks everybody!


I hope your not trying to cut it after you take off the back? Also what type of designs are you doing. I think this type of paper (opaque) is really only good for a boxed type print unless you have a plotter/cutter like the Roland that can cut the design. In my video I use a rotary trimmer and that gave me straight cuts.


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## chriscass (Dec 26, 2006)

Hello Everyone, 

I just stumbled on this thread and thought that I would provide some imput as well. I've used New Milford Photo paper for about a 10 months and my I honestly have had a lot of repeat customers because they love the quality of the photos. (Especially on white tees).

I will keep an eye out for your results Lou, because if the new dark paper is anything like the results that I've seen on whites. I'm ordering that too!

I have never had any returns or complaints. (Thank Goodness!)


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## HannahKate (Jun 17, 2007)

badalou said:


> Yes I am.. LOL


We have tried it with box-type designs and they came out really well. We usually trim with a paper cutter or craft shears but found it difficult to cut this paper with it. We will look into a rotary cutter. Thanks so much for your response and for the video. We enjoyed watching it and as always, learned a lot.

Ronni​


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Not being negative... just matter of fact.
Thank you Lou, you are invaluable.
The IronAll for dark just looks like an improved stretchable raincoat !
I could hear the 'hand' scream on Badalou's video!
It has it's place in the vastly complex arena of garment imprinting.
It has it's place in the eye of the buyer.
I may use it sparingly... as the guy standing in front of my event booth may be the unplugued Prince of Saxony as well as Spanky.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> Not being negative... just matter of fact.
> Thank you Lou, you are invaluable.
> The IronAll for dark just looks like an improved stretchable raincoat !
> I could hear the 'hand' scream on Badalou's video!
> ...


So I guess you have used it other wise how could you comment. The hand as a matter of fact is very light.Especially comparred to other opaque transfers. Raincoat?? I wore the shirt all day yesterday and kept commenting to my wife how good it felt. It is notiron all for light so there is a hand feel. But there is a hand feel on vinyl and screen printing as well. And it does have its place in the garment imprinting.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

No Lou... have not directly used it... TOO new... but I have worn the full gammon of all the latest and greatest of these types of Heat Transfers and I no longer let the hype talk as loud... so, yes good sir, I hope I can comment. I am not confrontational, just jovial and 'unminced' in my words. My old T-Shirts that were imprinted using these methods tend to remain in the drawer more than worn... so I speak of personal experience... and my ear is keen enough to pick up on the sound your hand made, and the way the fabric was folding where the design is... thus your video is excellent! I am able to save myself the pain of testing thanks to your efforts... and indeed as I said I may use the IronAll for darks... Dang ! Lou... I CAN comment... I respect you for all you do.


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## chriscass (Dec 26, 2006)

Wow!!! ????? 

Lou, thanks for the video. The demonstration was perfect you captured it all. 
I certainly can't speak for others, but my market segment would certainly enjoy
the new flexibility and added benefits of this product. I can't wait to use it.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> No Lou... have not directly used it... TOO new... but I have worn the full gammon of all the latest and greatest of these types of Heat Transfers and I no longer let the hype talk as loud... so, yes good sir, I hope I can comment. I am not confrontational, just jovial and 'unminced' in my words. My old T-Shirts that were imprinted using these methods tend to remain in the drawer more than worn... so I speak of personal experience... and my ear is keen enough to pick up on the sound your hand made, and the way the fabric was folding where the design is... thus your video is excellent! I am able to save myself the pain of testing thanks to your efforts... and indeed as I said I may use the IronAll for darks... Dang ! Lou... I CAN comment... I respect you for all you do.


Aye.. bright Sir you do well with your comments as I too have left those thickly wears hanging and gathering dust in the darkest end of the closet. And you comments tho seem harsh were not received as so. But let me steer you the fact that tho it seemed the shirt was more of the same. I am respectfully delivering this to let you know that they will not be hanging near the other outcast of the opaque shirts. gee that was fun.. 







Lou


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

Wheeeew! Finally the video has arrived. Thanks Lou. I'll have to order some samples and do some testing. The thing that intersts me more, would be seeing how it does after a few repeated washes. That's where I have seen some opaques break down. But once again, thanks for your hard work and great effort.


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## Alan (Jul 7, 2007)

I'm excited Lou! Sounds like one more step in the right direction. Here's my big question mark... How's it do in an optical cutter? If this works out, it could be the most used paper in my shop, I'm ALWAYS having to do dark shirts.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Alan said:


> I'm excited Lou! Sounds like one more step in the right direction. Here's my big question mark... How's it do in an optical cutter? If this works out, it could be the most used paper in my shop, I'm ALWAYS having to do dark shirts.


Have not got my Roland yet but I can assure you I will try it when it comes. Lou


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Would like to share my test.

The inkjet color lost its vibrancy and looked washout. I used Epson CX5000 with pigmented ink. The laser color maintained its vibrancy. I used Oki C5200Ne. May have over cooked the inkjet at 375F for 25 seconds and medium pressure. When I pressed the laser transfer I did lower the pressure from medium to in between light and medium pressure and dwell time from 25 to 10 seconds. Not sure if it would make a difference for inkjet with new settings. I ruined two of the transfers when I was trying the laser printer. Both transfers started with the same vibrancy but the inkjet did not turnout as good as the laser. I hand trim both transfers. I do have a vinyl cutter but it does not have an optical registration option.

Sorry if the image looks familiar. I use the image as a standard for all my evaluations. I have not wash the shirts yet. That will be next.

I am planning to get a CraftRobo if Lou's test with the cutter is successful.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

Thanks for the post Luis. So you are using the same paper for both Laser and Inkjet? If so, this is a great post showing side by side comparisons.

How was the feel and stretchability for you?


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## moondane (Nov 27, 2006)

Lou & Luis,
Thanks very much for your time & comments. Lou, The video is great! 
Judy in NH


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> Would like to share my test.
> 
> The inkjet color lost its vibrancy and looked washout. I used Epson CX5000 with pigmented ink. The laser color maintained its vibrancy. I used Oki C5200Ne. May have over cooked the inkjet at 375F for 25 seconds and medium pressure. When I pressed the laser transfer I did lower the pressure from medium to in between light and medium pressure and dwell time from 25 to 10 seconds. Not sure if it would make a difference for inkjet with new settings. I ruined two of the transfers when I was trying the laser printer. Both transfers started with the same vibrancy but the inkjet did not turnout as good as the laser. I hand trim both transfers. I do have a vinyl cutter but it does not have an optical registration option.
> 
> ...


You are right about the transfer dulling up after the press. Mine did the same. I guess that is going to be on the negitive side. It still looks good unless you are comparing it side by side. Which you would'nt be. I did my print at the text/photo mode. I will try it at full photo (More Ink) and see if it looks better. I am still satisfied with the results. The other nagative thing is the price. A bit on the high side for now. I would hope this comes down.


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## Robin (Aug 28, 2006)

Thanks Lou, that was great!!


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

...point me to the posting that states the price... would u. Thank you.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> ...point me to the posting that states the price... would u. Thank you.


Here it is. Iron-ALL Transfer Paper, Transfer Paper for all Fabrics | New Milford Photo

Lou hope you don't mind my answering.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

badalou said:


> You are right about the transfer dulling up after the press. Mine did the same. I guess that is going to be on the negitive side. It still looks good unless you are comparing it side by side. Which you would'nt be. I did my print at the text/photo mode. I will try it at full photo (More Ink) and see if it looks better. I am still satisfied with the results. The other nagative thing is the price. A bit on the high side for now. I would hope this comes down.


I did mine using the "Premium Presentation Paper Matte" paper type and it defaulted to best photo. It took a long time printing in that mode. One thing I noticed is the ink was smearing a bit while I was trimming it. Will the transfer being moist when pressed cause the washout look? You are right as long as they are not compared side by side it actually looks good. As a matter of fact I am wearing it right now. I'd say it is not bad at all.

I just found out today that Colorstarink also carries the translution version which is the same product with different brand name. I was told by Todd Hochard via email that their price is extremely competitive. He did not elaborate. Not sure if it means cheaper by a large amount. The last time I was in their website I did not see anything about translution opaque. So, I don't know what their price is compared to newmilfordphoto.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

prometheus said:


> Thanks for the post Luis. So you are using the same paper for both Laser and Inkjet? If so, this is a great post showing side by side comparisons.
> 
> How was the feel and stretchability for you?


Yes I am using the same paper for both printers. Stretchability wise it's just like in the video. No cracking when stretched in any direction and it always go back to its original shape. The image feels smooth, no raised edge but the hand feels like plastic not bad though. I can make a fold and run my nails as hard as I can to keep it folded and it does not crack nor scratch the surface. The fold disappears when released. It has a matte finish. I like it compared to other brands I have tested. Some cracked and peeled the first time it is thrown in the dryer. Some became semi transparent after it is pressed.

Have to do wash test yet. My first impression is it well last several washes. I am going to try hot water wash also.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> I did mine using the "Premium Presentation Paper Matte" paper type and it defaulted to best photo. It took a long time printing in that mode. One thing I noticed is the ink was smearing a bit while I was trimming it. Will the transfer being moist when pressed cause the washout look? You are right as long as they are not compared side by side it actually looks good. As a matter of fact I am wearing it right now. I'd say it is not bad at all.
> 
> I just found out today that Colorstarink also carries the translution version which is the same product with different brand name. I was told by Todd Hochard via email that their price is extremely competitive. He did not elaborate. Not sure if it means cheaper by a large amount. The last time I was in their website I did not see anything about translution opaque. So, I don't know what their price is compared to newmilfordphoto.


Stands to reason. They both get their paper from the same source. I guess you can see the handwriting on the wall as others folow the lead.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

badalou said:


> Stands to reason. They both get their paper from the same source. I guess you can see the handwriting on the wall as others folow the lead.


Just been in Colorstarink's site and still no sign of translucent opaque. Do you think with few vendors coming on board will eventually lower the price?


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Luis,

What settings are you using on your OKI printer when you print the transfer?

George


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> Just been in Colorstarink's site and still no sign of translucent opaque. Do you think with few vendors coming on board will eventually lower the price?


I would bet that they will be jumping on board. as far as price goes I can't answer. it looks like an expensive product to make. i would hope that it does. If there is compition then most likley it will drop. It is so new a product. I am going to call Coastal this morning and see what they say..


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## Predator (Jul 9, 2007)

Luis, issnt this paper supposed to be used for inkjet printers?


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## newmilfordphoto (Sep 5, 2006)

Hey everyone,

I usually stay off the boards so it does not seem like i'm shilling for my own company...i put the products out there and let the customers tell me what is good and bad. I heard from a few people that the they like our new iron all dark but i's a bit pricey...and i must agree...it's killing me since i try to be very aggressive on pricing.

I am working hard to get the cost down and in turn the retail price. It took a great deal of money to develop this paper...and since we're still in the early stages of release...my costs are still high.

If you don't get our newsletter...we are offering a discount on the paper for a limited time. Use coupon code percent25 when checking out to get a 25% discount on the paper.

paper can be found here

newmilfordphoto.com/iron-all-dark.html

keep the reviews coming in so we can further refine the paper

thanks
kathy laperch
New Milford Photo


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

I was really happy with the news letter Kathy, I used the shipping code which really bumps up my costs, I just used it to buy some IronAll dark.


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## cherrymomma (Nov 16, 2006)

Hey there, Kathy! Could you tell us now long the coupon will be effective? I ordered a sample the other day, so I'm hoping I'll be able to use the coupon when it's gotten here and I've had a chance to do a few tests. Thanks!


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## newmilfordphoto (Sep 5, 2006)

october 1 but let me know and we'll keep it open for you


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## Kazyg (Aug 19, 2007)

Just ordered some samples and I look forward to trying these out!
This post lit a fire under my ***. 
Thanks for the video Lou!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Kazyg said:


> Just ordered some samples and I look forward to trying these out!
> This post lit a fire under my ***.
> Thanks for the video Lou!


You are welcomed.


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## Ezekiel33Graphic (Jan 23, 2007)

newmilfordphoto said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I usually stay off the boards so it does not seem like i'm shilling for my own company...i put the products out there and let the customers tell me what is good and bad. I heard from a few people that the they like our new iron all dark but i's a bit pricey...and i must agree...it's killing me since i try to be very aggressive on pricing.
> 
> ...


I finally recieved my Ironall for darks today & was excited to try it out. I used an Epson c88+ to print the transfers. All 5 example papers I recieved jammed in my printer. I first tried plain paper/bright white & used the fine setting (which I prefer to use). I tried this twice. I then used plain paper/bright white & used normal setting (once). I then tried Matte paper-Heavyweight & photo setting (once). I decided I better try a Ironall transfer for lights next, since I had only one dark transfer left, just to make sure my printer was working. The Ironall for lights went through without any problems ( I used plain paper/bright white & fine setting). So, I decided to try my last dark transfer & used Premium Glossy photo paper & the photo setting. The Ironall for darks transfer paper is pretty flimsy & I am sure that is probably the reason it was jamming. Maybe they can make the backing a little more sturdy? Anyways, I was excited to try this new paper & I wish I had a better report.......


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

d .... mmmmm it! that shoots my plan to shredddddssss!!!

I was to work off the C88+ too and Ironall for darks was my potential option...

I hope someone will be able to point you to the culprit factor and this gets resolved... in the mean time I hold my order for my equipment...

Thank you for the posting.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> d .... mmmmm it! that shoots my plan to shredddddssss!!!
> 
> I was to work off the C88+ too and Ironall for darks was my potential option...
> 
> ...


I disagree on the thickness of the paper. it is thicker then iron all for lights. why it jammed in your printer I do not know. I have a c88+ and it went trough very smooth. I did several sheets.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Badalou meant to quote Posting #58 from Ezekiel33Graphic... I think.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

gbishop said:


> Luis,
> 
> What settings are you using on your OKI printer when you print the transfer?
> 
> George


George,

Just posted the settings with lengthy comments here http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t28972.html

Hope it works for you.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Predator said:


> Luis, issnt this paper supposed to be used for inkjet printers?


Yap. But I tested it anyway in my laser printer and it worked at least once. Also newmilfordphoto did the same experiment and it worked for them. I have different settings than they have though.

Well you saw the comparison photo or did you not? As the saying goes "The proof is in the pudding." or something like that  . Laser toner looked way better than inkjet ink. The feel and stretchability are the same.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

newmilfordphoto said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I usually stay off the boards so it does not seem like i'm shilling for my own company...i put the products out there and let the customers tell me what is good and bad. I heard from a few people that the they like our new iron all dark but i's a bit pricey...and i must agree...it's killing me since i try to be very aggressive on pricing.
> 
> ...


Kathy,

Not to change the subject I got your email (PM) about the laser printer settings. However, I have tried that before I emailed you. That was the settings on my first attempt which had fusing problem. The reason I emailed you is to find out if you have a better settings than I have that worked for me. As shown in the comparison photo. It turned out that you have entirely different than I have. I know each printer has its own little quirks. Just posted the setting earlier. 

I wish I did not run out of transfer. I would have better proof that the settings I have really works. Maybe I just got lucky. Hopefully somebody will pick up on the settings that I have and let everybody know whether it works or not.

Thanks for replying though and coming up with this product. Its great. Still has not done wash test but I am positive it will be ok.

Care to comment? http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t28972.html. Hope it doesn't bore you.


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## EB (May 9, 2006)

I know there had been a few comments about the stretchyness of the new Iron All for darks and that it can be tricky to cut. 

That said, has anyone been able to test cut with a vinyl cutter that can read registration marks. Lou, I believe you are still waiting on your Roland, but how about anyone else. I would think someone out there has a Roland or Graphtec and some of this new paper to test out.  

I don't have a vinyl cutter just yet or I would do some testing. I look forward to seeing whether or not this new paper is cuttable via a vinyl cutter. I see a huge need for this new paper if in fact contour cutting will work.

Cheers,
Eric


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

EB said:


> I know there had been a few comments about the stretchyness of the new Iron All for darks and that it can be tricky to cut.
> 
> That said, has anyone been able to test cut with a vinyl cutter that can read registration marks. Lou, I believe you are still waiting on your Roland, but how about anyone else. I would think someone out there has a Roland or Graphtec and some of this new paper to test out.
> 
> ...


Waiting, waiting, waiting for my cutter... After I learn a few things then i will see how to do it but I am sure others with more experence with the roland will do it first.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I should be getting my samples very soon (another referral for Lou!  ) and I'll try contour cutting a complex design with it.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

HannahKate said:


> We also tried the new paper yesterday with good results. The only challenge we encountered was when we attempted to cut it. It doesn't cut like regular transfer paper because of the material it is made from. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to cut such a thin stretchy material?
> 
> I am looking forward to seeing Lou's video. Thanks everybody!


I got a suggestion for you if you have a cutter with optical registration. Use a carrier sheet.

1) Print the un-mirrored image with registration marks on the opaque material
2) Place the opaque face down on the carrier sheet
3) Place the composition on a light table with carrier sheet down
4) Precisely trace the registration marks, with straight edge and very fine felt tip pen (must be black), on the paper backing
5) Mirror the trace/contour line in the file that you are going to use to cut in the plotter/cutter
6) Load the file to the plotter
7) Load the composition in the cutter
8) Adjust the pressure so that the blade will cut through the paper backing and the opaque material
9) Let the cutter find the registration marks
10) Start cutting.
11) Weed the excess material
12) Remove the backing paper
13) Press the compositon on the shirt
Two options when pressing because the carrier sheet may permanently bond to the opaque material:
13a) Peel the opaque material from the carrier sheet
- Place the material on the shirt facing up
- Cover the opaque with parchment paper
- Press with instructed dell time, temp and pressure
- Peel hot or cold
or 
13b) Pace the composition on the shirt with opaque adhessive facning down
- Press with instructed dwell time, temp and pressure
- Peel cold or hot

Do a test with carrier sheet. Cut a piece of carrier sheet. Place a piece of scrap opaque facing down on the adhessive side of the carrier sheet. Take a scrap shirt. Press the compostion on the shirt. Peel hot or cold , which ever is best. If the carrier did not bond permanently on the opaque then use option 13b.

I used 10 seconds for dwell time and between light and medium pressure when I pressed the transfer that was printed with color laser printer and it maintained the color vibrancy compared to inkjet using 10 seconds and medium pressure that color became washed out ( muted). 

Having the opaque material sandwiched between the carrier sheet and the paper backing might be enough to prevent the opaque material for tearing.

I do have a vinyl cutter but it does have optical registration option. So I have not attempted cutting the material.

If my suggestions work for you then I will go ahead and buy one with optical registration even the cheapy model of RoboCraft.

Please let us know the result if you try my suggestions.

My 2 cents.

Thank you.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Or:

With _opaque_ papers, cutting them on a vinyl cutter is VERY easy. You DON'T need a carrier sheet. Just set your downforce to a very low value (I use 30 grams). Then, just peel your transfer off of the built-in carrier sheet.

But if you have a complex, multi-element design you WOULD use a carrier sheet, but only AFTER you cut your design. Once you've cut your design (but not weeded yet), place the carrier sheet over the FACE side of your transfer. Then peel the backer off and weed your design.

That's what I did with this design: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t26701.html

But if you're cutting a transfer for lights, you DO need a carrier before you cut.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Chani said:


> Or:
> 
> With _opaque_ papers, cutting them on a vinyl cutter is VERY easy. You DON'T need a carrier sheet. Just set your downforce to a very low value (I use 30 grams). Then, just peel your transfer off of the built-in carrier sheet.
> 
> ...


It seems that HannahKate is having problem cutting the material because of its flexibility that is why I suggested the carrier sheet. I thought that it might help improve in cutting it if it is sandwich between carrier sheet and paper backing.

Have you tried cutting the Ironall for dark with your process?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

No, not yet. I haven't gotten my samples yet.

I don't know...maybe you DO need some sort of carrier for this new paper. We'll see. But for most, no, you don't need one.


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## electricroo (Sep 19, 2007)

I bought a sample pack and gave it a few tests. Is seems to hold up great, but only have one strange issue. Using an Epson C88+ and pgmented ink, it seems that the black comes out very faded. Tried different printer settings, and different press timing, but the same result. Don't have this problem with Jet Dark or some of the others I have tried. Just for fun I printed one out on my Canon printer which uses dye based ink. Same thing, the black is really faded after pressing. Other colors look OK.


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> It seems that HannahKate is having problem cutting the material because of its flexibility that is why I suggested the carrier sheet. I thought that it might help improve in cutting it if it is sandwich between carrier sheet and paper backing.
> 
> Have you tried cutting the Ironall for dark with your process?


I have tried cutting the iron all dark. Not good so far. Roland GX 24 set at 100 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 150 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 200 grams.. paper just stretches and rips . So detailed cutting is out. Maybe large images will work but we don't use large images here.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

has anyone tried the OBM x.x from MagicTouch ? it does cut well in the Craft ROBO... but is the imprint result adequate?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Gordo said:


> I have tried cutting the iron all dark. Not good so far. Roland GX 24 set at 100 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 150 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 200 grams.. paper just stretches and rips . So detailed cutting is out. Maybe large images will work but we don't use large images here.


Did you try the sandwich gimmick I suggested?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Gordo said:


> I have tried cutting the iron all dark. Not good so far. Roland GX 24 set at 100 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 150 grams ..no cut at all. Set at 200 grams.. paper just stretches and rips . So detailed cutting is out. Maybe large images will work but we don't use large images here.


It is what I stated in my video. Opaque transfers are really designed for more square cuts. I had no problem cutting with my rotary cutter and scissors. I have not got my Cutter yet but it being delivered on Monday (Finally)Also I would apply to a cool shirt becuse if you place the transfer on a hot shirt the vinyl starts to attach its self and when you go to align it as I did with my tool the transfer got stuck and would not move easily. You can actually see that in my video.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I don't completely agree with that statement. I haven't gotten my IronAll for Darks samples yet, but I really like how my example of a complex cut with opaque transfers turned out. It might be different with this paper, tho.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Chani said:


> I don't completely agree with that statement. I haven't gotten my IronAll for Darks samples yet, but I really like how my example of a complex cut with opaque transfers turned out. It might be different with this paper, tho.


I don't disagree. I was talking more about doing it by hand. As I am waiting (still) for my cutter which is due to arrive Monday then I will try it that way. I think anyone that is doing complex cuts by hand with opaque paper is not going to get a good cut. With the cutter I would hope it works better. Lou


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Did you try the sandwich gimmick I suggested?


Hi Inforfun
I am not quite sure that I want to place a carrier sheet on top of the transfer paper to create a sandwich effect for cutting. Is this carier sheet you speak of something like magic mask? An adhesive backed carrier sheet? If so, then how do you get the carrier sheet off of the transfer? Will it not be cut out the exact same size and shape as the transfer? Do I then have to transfer with the carrier on the transfer? With no extra edge of carrier how do I peel it off of the transfer? Sorry if these questions seem ridiculous, I am just trying to picture how this process you speak of would work. Look forward to your reply!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Gordo said:


> Hi Inforfun
> I am not quite sure that I want to place a carrier sheet on top of the transfer paper to create a sandwich effect for cutting. Is this carier sheet you speak of something like magic mask? An adhesive backed carrier sheet? If so, then how do you get the carrier sheet off of the transfer? Will it not be cut out the exact same size and shape as the transfer? Do I then have to transfer with the carrier on the transfer? With no extra edge of carrier how do I peel it off of the transfer? Sorry if these questions seem ridiculous, I am just trying to picture how this process you speak of would work. Look forward to your reply!


The carrier sheet I am talking about is the clear mylar that has adhesive. I beleive it is the same material used as backing material for vinyl sheets. So my guess is it can be pressed with the opaque material underneath it. You do not cut the carrier sheet. Chad has shown it done in his demo video. It is mainly used to hold the opaque material in place. Hopefully with its adhesive and the paper backing will prevent the opaque material from tearing when it is being cut. The cut is suppose to be on the paper backing side all the way through the opaque material but not the carrier sheet. Then weed the excess materials. If you read back my idea, I suggested not to press it with the opaque if sticking is going to be a problem. I did mention two pressing options. If you don't think this is not doable I am ok with that. I do have a vinyl cutter. The problem is mine do not have optical registration option. So my idea is directed to members who have vinyl cutter with optical registration that are willing to try. It is just merely a suggestion.

I think I am going to try it with my vinyl cutter regardless of optical registration. Just to see if the opaque material can be cut that way.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Just been to Specialty Graphics Supply site to look for information regarding cutting stretchy vinyl. They recommend 60 degrees blade.


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## gothicaleigh (Jun 16, 2007)

Can we get this in rolls?

Or are they planning on releasing it in rolls?

(I would imagine that would help the cost a bit; The per page price adds a pretty high cost to shirts that are going to be viewed, and rightly so, as "just transfers").


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

the paper is available ONLY in sheets..doubt they will be doing rolls. Or so I was told in conversation with the source of the paper..as you know this is sold under several names...

huuumm....maybe I should add to that... then again...maybe not


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Just been to Specialty Graphics Supply site to look for information regarding cutting stretchy vinyl. They recommend 60 degrees blade.


Ok Success at last in cutting iron all dark with my roland gx 24. The 60 degree blade works great. Force of 60 grams ....Thanks K!!


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## Kazyg (Aug 19, 2007)

Gordo, 
Did you end up having to use a carrier sheet/mat or top sheet, anything else? Or just the iron all dark and the 60 degree blade?
Thanks for posting that it worked for you!
~ Carol


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Gordo said:


> Ok Success at last in cutting iron all dark with my roland gx 24. The 60 degree blade works great. Force of 60 grams ....Thanks K!!


Good deal. Not sure but you are welcome I think 'cause I am not K.


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

Hi Carol
I did Not use a carrier sheet, just the iron all and a 60 degree blade.

Gordo



Kazyg said:


> Gordo,
> Did you end up having to use a carrier sheet/mat or top sheet, anything else? Or just the iron all dark and the 60 degree blade?
> Thanks for posting that it worked for you!
> ~ Carol


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

Hey Luis
Sorry about the "K" thing. I got a bit confused... again

Gordo




lnfortun said:


> Good deal. Not sure but you are welcome I think 'cause I am not K.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Gordo said:


> Hey Luis
> Sorry about the "K" thing. I got a bit confused... again
> 
> Gordo


Got it. Now on to pressing and washing part. Please let us know your findings.

Thanks.


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## rags16 (Jun 12, 2007)

How does it compare to plastisol? Also, can you recommend a good ink that will work well with this paper...less fading?


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

I ordrreed some iron all for darks last week. I just got the delivery today UPS. I bought 25 sheets to try them out. Cost me $46.88. plus $15.26 for shipping. A lot of money ,but I figured I would suck it up. Then the UPS driver charges us another$37.77 at our door. So I just paid about $4.00 per sheet. Needless to say I am angry. I didnt pay anything for my 100 sheets of iron all for lites. Ecept the $79.00 for the cost of the sheets. What the hec am I supposed to do with $4.00 sheets of paper? Any suggestions.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

The one thing I don't understand is why youhad to pay and extra $37.77 to the UPS man.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

I am with Robert...why the extra....I would sure call the company to see if in fact they did prepay...hope you saved the shipping label..then next would be to UPS regional center to ask why...somebody got about 37 plus of your dollars that they should not have!


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## go10go4 (Oct 3, 2007)

For those who have tried the IronAll dark, what happens if you don't image cut and allow the entire sheet to transfer. Is the dreaded rectangle extremely obvious, does it have a hand, is it relatively clear or white in tone, etc.?


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## chuckybelly (Oct 15, 2007)

badalou said:


> Hi, gang.. well I just found out New Milford is sending me some samples of the new iron All for darks. looking forward to trying it and of course this will require a video. And remember I do an honest assessment of the product. Even though I am getting the Roland cutter from them as a prize I never ever let that stop me from giving you guys the facts. Several others here have order samples as well and I expect they also will give their assessment of the new product. can't wait to try it. This could change a lot of thing in the way we do dark products and may help increase business. Lou


 sounds good


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

$37.77 is what UPS charged me to broker it. I`m 5 minutes away from th US border. Canada.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rags16 said:


> How does it compare to plastisol? Also, can you recommend a good ink that will work well with this paper...less fading?


I used both inkjet pigment ink and laser toner. The laser color is vibrant compared to the inkjet which looked washed out. Both shirts are starting to fade and showing signs that it will be cracking after few more washes. They do not look bad yet but they both show tell tale sign that cracking is eminent. Both shirts were washed and thrown in the dryer 3 times so far. Still have plastic feel to them but softer than most I have tried.

I would think dye sub ink will hold up better since it likes to bond on poly material.

It be interesting to hear results from other users. Anyone?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

majesticmind said:


> $37.77 is what UPS charged me to broker it. I`m 5 minutes away from th US border. Canada.


You left that part out. They should have given you the total amount before you ordered so you would know. $4.00 a sheet is way too much.


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## Gordo (Feb 24, 2007)

majesticmind said:


> $37.77 is what UPS charged me to broker it. I`m 5 minutes away from th US border. Canada.


I too am located in Canada and here's what I do and suggest you might want to do.. Get in touch with John at Newmilford and he will ship the paper through USPS with a low dollar amount on the invoice. Usually gets through customs without duties or taxes and the postal service does not have a brokerage fee. So you only pay for the paper. The trick here is you have to speak directly to John and not order online.
Hope this helps!


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## polomac (Jun 27, 2006)

If you live in Canada there is no need to buy the paper in the u.s and pay the nasty UPS extra fee. Starlinpacific carries the paper. Sthal's Canada has it. These paper are the same only under there brand name. Like all the other papers like it with each company brand name.


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## polomac (Jun 27, 2006)

I should of mention that is for the light garments. The dark garments are being tested by these companies and other canadian companies. If you do need the Dark heat transfer. It is best to use usps and let the shipper write gift on the order not to pay extra fees.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

polomac said:


> If you live in Canada there is no need to buy the paper in the u.s and pay the nasty UPS extra fee. Starlinpacific carries the paper. Sthal's Canada has it. These paper are the same only under there brand name. Like all the other papers like it with each company brand name.


Stsarline chatges well over $100 for iron all for lite as opposed to $79 from newmilford, the reason starline told me they charge so much is because THEY developed the paper themsevles.

And I did talk to John on the phone the first time i ordered and it didnt cost anything to ship. The online ordering system tells me the price plus shipping but not the extra $37.77.

I guess i`ll see if they respond to me or not. I will still buy from newmilford , it is the best deal and paper.I just wont UPS it i`ll have it mailed to me.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Not sure that Starlinpacific developed the paper. I am told by representatives of Hyatt Inovative Solutions that they are the developer... I had some talks with a representative there regarding distributorship, but I declined to do so. I do believe the opaque is better than most out there, it is not at level that I am happy to offer to customers. Until a better transfer comes along, I will continue to outsource to DTG if plastisol wont work


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

I agree with Charles..


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

badalou said:


> I agree with Charles..


Lou? What do you agree with? That Hyatt developed the paper? Or that it is the best opaque? Or that it isnt good enough for your customers?

I didnt beleive the response from Starline. There has been just to much info around here that says Kathy at newmilford got this ball rolling. Does everybody say they where first?

And good news. Between John at newmilford helping with the cost of a future shipment and UPS giving me a one time discount The extra money I paid has dropped enough that I feel much better about the whole thing.

Today UPS sent me a message that somebody is sending me another package from the US. I didnt ask for anything to be sent UPS or pay for the package or shipping.(probably a sample) But if this driver shows up and gives me a bill of 30 or 40 dollars for brokering it I am going to freak!Or maybe I will just stay calm and refuse the package.

Any way, the Iron All for Lites is freakin incredible. And with it being Halloween I am swamped for crazy looking shirts. I had a request late last nite for a shirt that says BAY CITY ROLLERS in plaid. Try that with my screen printing, I think not! The shirt came out perfect. Customer came and grabbed it about an hour ago and was very impressed. Defintly a new repeat customer. He will like it even more after he washes it and sees how soft it gets.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Majesticminds~ I share your love of the IronAll transfers! I had been using a different paper (from a site Sponsor), and although the color vibrancy was incredible, it cracked terribly. I've only done a few of the IronAll/Everlast transfers, and I am TOTALLY in love with them! I wasn't as precise in trimming them, and left a good sized, unprinted border around the image, but after it was washed, it was incredibly hard to see! The tees are so soft, and after washing a few times, there's just about no hand at all - even on 5.5 oz tees!

OK, for complete disclosure, I should say that the transfers I printed were done with an HP Photosmart (dye inks). I know, I know, for best washability, I should use an Epson with durabrite inks -- I just bought the Epson C88+ and I will be using that going forward -- I promise!

*OK, that said, I did a 100% cotton shirt LS shirt, and a 50/50 ss t-shirt. After washing, the 50/50 retained the colors much better. Why? With both done with the same dye inks, I'm at a loss... Anyone able to shed some light on this? Should I be buying 50/50 instead of 100% cotton going forward, even with the C88+?*

Melissa


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Daring to make the obvious suggestion... I could be wrong. If the dye ink has any similarity to the dye sub inks, perhaps the 50 part(polyester) got 'sublimated'?

Long shot I am sure.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Oh, one more question about the Everlast paper. I've done maybe 5 shirts with it so far, and there still seems to be quite a bit of ink left on the paper after peeling. Why? Not enough pressure? Not enough dwell time? Should there by any ink left on the paper at all?

Thanks!
Melissa


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

NicMartel said:


> Daring to make the obvious suggestion... I could be wrong. If the dye ink has any similarity to the dye sub inks, perhaps the 50 part(polyester) got 'sublimated'?
> 
> Long shot I am sure.


I would say they are not the same at all. Sublimation inks are totally different. That is why there is patent on the product. However you may be right as to the dye ink working better on 50/50 then 100% cotton.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Oh, one more question about the Everlast paper. I've done maybe 5 shirts with it so far, and there still seems to be quite a bit of ink left on the paper after peeling. Why? Not enough pressure? Not enough dwell time? Should there by any ink left on the paper at all?
> 
> Thanks!
> Melissa


There will be some left. Also what printing process are you using.. photo? best photo? More ink is not recommended. I use on the c88+ photo/text.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

badalou said:


> There will be some left. Also what printing process are you using.. photo? best photo? More ink is not recommended. I use on the c88+ photo/text.


Every Supplier that sells evrlast/ironall/supersoft/etc.. recommened photo to us
I am going to take your suggestion and try the same image using diferent settings, wash um and see. i use a few c88+.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

The way that iron all is made makes the ink hard to dry fast on the paper. Unlike photo paper or plain paper. So you actually have a build up of ink on top of the paper not in the paper like photo or paper. If you notice that there is wet ink when you print. Never stack right away also. I usually dry my print under my press to get them dry. But again I never use best photo. Also the different printers may say photo and best photo then i would use photo not best photo. My printer says text/photo so that is what I use. Lou


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## Skinbus (Jul 2, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Majesticminds~ I share your love of the IronAll transfers! I had been using a different paper (from a site Sponsor), and although the color vibrancy was incredible, it cracked terribly. I've only done a few of the IronAll/Everlast transfers, and I am TOTALLY in love with them! I wasn't as precise in trimming them, and left a good sized, unprinted border around the image, but after it was washed, it was incredibly hard to see! The tees are so soft, and after washing a few times, there's just about no hand at all - even on 5.5 oz tees!
> 
> OK, for complete disclosure, I should say that the transfers I printed were done with an HP Photosmart (dye inks). I know, I know, for best washability, I should use an Epson with durabrite inks -- I just bought the Epson C88+ and I will be using that going forward -- I promise!
> 
> ...


 Personally I use nothing but 50/50 & they're working great. Also using C88+. I love em' more for the fact that there's very little ironing needed unlike 100% cotton. (Blankshirts.com..great prices & quality. Be Well.


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## Skinbus (Jul 2, 2007)

badalou said:


> The way that iron all is made makes the ink hard to dry fast on the paper. Unlike photo paper or plain paper. So you actually have a build up of ink on top of the paper not in the paper like photo or paper. If you notice that there is wet ink when you print. Never stack right away also. I usually dry my print under my press to get them dry. But again I never use best photo. Also the different printers may say photo and best photo then i would use photo not best photo. My printer says text/photo so that is what I use. Lou


 
Regarding iron-all for darks..Unless there is a special tool for cutting this paper I really don't care for it. It's fine if you're cutting straight lines but my designs are very shapely. Cutting this stuff is like cutting chewing gum. Any suggestions? ANYBODY?


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## Skinbus (Jul 2, 2007)

On "dye sub inks".. Aren't these inks for a totally different process? For non-porous items like mugs & other hard surfaces?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Skinbus said:


> On "dye sub inks".. Aren't these inks for a totally different process? For non-porous items like mugs & other hard surfaces?


Yes, 2 different subjects. However you can use on poly irts. Most people that use sub ink complain about the expense of the process.. Me I would go with Plastisol first.(For shirts)


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

you can use dye sub on 100% polyester shirts, white/ash or some pastels from vaporapparel It will not work well with 50/50 blend as the dye sub ink does not adhere to cotton...it will wash out


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

badalou said:


> The way that iron all is made makes the ink hard to dry fast on the paper. Unlike photo paper or plain paper. So you actually have a build up of ink on top of the paper not in the paper like photo or paper. If you notice that there is wet ink when you print. Never stack right away also. I usually dry my print under my press to get them dry. But again I never use best photo. Also the different printers may say photo and best photo then i would use photo not best photo. My printer says text/photo so that is what I use. Lou


I tried photo and the image on the shirts is a little sharper than best photo. I think the ink bleeds just slightly with best photo because of the extra amount laid on the paper. So i do like photo better and i am going to use less ink. Thanks for the suggestion lou. Always willing to try something new.

I tested a blue grid for darks. opaque. Beautiful images , very plasticy though. Completly destroyed after one wash. Garbage paper. I tried some paper with a couple blue lines down the back of it. Completly stuck to the shirt, wont come off for nothing, completly wrecked. Also tried a paper that had the companies greenish disclaimer on the back, i wont name the company, but it stuck to the shirt also, i tried a few others to test opaues , all have the same instructions and they worked very good. We will see after the wash test. The best opaque i have used so far is the cheapest crap i have. I got it from a Chinese guy in Toronto for free (100 sheets) cause i bought some ink from him. It is very thick but it stays fairly solid and can be stretched well without cracking. But after washing it still looks exactly the same. No name on the product, just a blank package. So far the best use i have found for opaques is denim. Unlike a t shirt denim does resally stretch much and the opaque adheres to the material really good.

I just attende a halloween p[arty last nite with my wife. The organization putting the party on orderd screen printed shirts from us for door prizes. Simple black shirts with a picture of calvin peeing on their logo(white plastoisol ink). We also brought some Iron all for lites with some awesome halloween pics. Gave um a wash to soften them up. They were the talk of the nite. I am swamped once again for oreders. People could not beleive thart we could produce such a crisp full color, soft handed print and one off`s to boot for such a fair price. 

In conclusion so far.

Whites and lites and caps=Iron All
Black and colors=Screen print
Denim, cd cases, mouse pads, totes etc..= thick opaque
Mugs, collectors plates and team jerseys 100%polyester=dye sublimation

Maybe i`ll get to the Iron all for darks tonight and test it on a black shirt.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

> In conclusion so far.
> 
> Whites and lites and caps=Iron All
> Black and colors=Screen print
> ...


That works for me.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Skinbus said:


> Regarding iron-all for darks..Unless there is a special tool for cutting this paper I really don't care for it. It's fine if you're cutting straight lines but my designs are very shapely. Cutting this stuff is like cutting chewing gum. Any suggestions? ANYBODY?


Somebody in this thread claimed he was successful in cutting the opaque material. You must have missed it.

Here is the link: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p178795-post84.html


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

badalou said:


> There will be some left. Also what printing process are you using.. photo? best photo? More ink is not recommended. I use on the c88+ photo/text.


Even though I was printing just text and no photo this time (I guess there's a first time for everything), I remembered you saying use the Text/Photo option, so that's what I did.

Thanks for clearing up the fact that not all of the ink is going to transfer to the shirt, and that some will show on the paper backing that is peeled. 

(Lou, could you help me further by responding to the email I sent you? I could really use your guidance. Thanks!)

Melissa


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## gothicaleigh (Jun 16, 2007)

We ordered the Iron All for darks from NewMillford a while back, but just got around to trying it yesterday on a cotton Gildan hoodie. The design was a US flag print (printed on my Epson 7800) that then had a US Border Patrol logo cut from it (on my Roland GX-24). It was a fairly detailed design and even using a 60 degree blade, the corners did not cut properly and had to be separated by hand using an X-acto knife and tweezers.

So after my first test it seems that the paper does transfer very well, but cutting may cause problems on anything besides straight lines and long sweeping curves.








Also, are there ICC profiles for this transfer paper available? I used an Epson matte profile in my Colorburst RIP software that I felt was similar, but this paper has a deep grain in it that doesn't match any of my papers exactly. Nevertheless, the print turned out good, but being anal about such things I always like to be assured that I can't be doing any better.


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## Skinbus (Jul 2, 2007)

badalou said:


> Yes, 2 different subjects. However you can use on poly irts. Most people that use sub ink complain about the expense of the process.. Me I would go with Plastisol first.(For shirts)


I've heard of plastisol numerous times but have no knowledge of the process. Where can I read some info on it, & how costly is it compared to transfers? I'm using iron-all light & dark but am having difficulty cutting anything but straight lines with the dark. Thanx, Mike.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

mike..do a search on the forum for Plastisol. Rodney has a good thread ...very informative..

In short plastisol is screen printing on transfer paper that you press on your garment. Prices vary from company to company and complexity and number of colors involved


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Skinbus said:


> Where can I read some info on it


http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t20402.html


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

So we tried our first test of the Iron all darks today. We used a rainbow gradient to get all the colors in. paper cut well with a rotary cutter. peeled well. Printed well. Washed well when we looked at it before the dryer. After the dryer we have a few scattered spots that are missing ink. No rhyme or reason as to why this tiny spot or that one. But quite a few of em. Same ink we use on all our prints. We are going to give it a few more washes before we decide if we are willing to sell shirts with this transfer on it. Still plasticy. A dark transfer like the Iron all for lites would be a godsend. Screen printing one off`s just makes no sense.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Has anyone had any luck cutting intricate designs on IronAll for Darks yet on their plotters?

If so (or if not), what conditions did you cut under? What downforce and cutting speed?

As an example, we use 20 grams downforce and 20 cm/sec speed for JetDark paper.

Would bringing your plotter to a near crawl help? Or Speeding it up to it's maximum?

Just thought I'd ask...


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

Chani said:


> Has anyone had any luck cutting intricate designs on IronAll for Darks yet on their plotters?
> 
> If so (or if not), what conditions did you cut under? What downforce and cutting speed?
> 
> ...


Chani..

I think somebody reported success at 60 grams of force with a 60 degree blade.

I'll trying finding the post to double check....

John


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Thanks! If you could post a link to that thread, I'd be greatful.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

treadhead said:


> Chani..
> 
> I think somebody reported success at 60 grams of force with a 60 degree blade.
> 
> ...


It is in post #84. Here it is: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p178795-post84.html


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Thanks!

Sorry, I hadn't been following this thread for a while, I guess I missed that.

Sorry. 

Thanks again!


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> It is in post #84. Here it is: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p178795-post84.html


Thanks Luis!

I found it but couldn't figure out how to post a link to another post....


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

In the upper right-hand corner of each post is a number and (permalink).

Right-click on one of those to copy the link, and paste it into your post. 

I suggest copying the (permalink) link, because it directs people to that post in context, while clicking on the number gives in isolated post.

Thanks again!


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

Chani said:


> In the upper right-hand corner of each post is a number and (permalink).
> 
> Right-click on one of those to copy the link, and paste it into your post.
> 
> ...


Ok...thanks!!

Do I select Copy Shortcut??


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Chani said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Sorry, I hadn't been following this thread for a while, I guess I missed that.
> 
> ...


Please let us know your result. I am still debating whether I should buy CraftRobo Pro.

Thanks.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Yes.

Okay, I remember reading that post now, but I also remember reading the post that someone had trouble with intricate designs on that setting.

Any luck with anything intricate?

Also, I asked for (and even offered to buy) samples of this paper from New Millford, but they never sent them to me.

I definitely don't want to pay for an entire package of this paper if it won't work for me...

I guess I'll ask again...


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Please let us know your result. I am still debating whether I should buy CraftRobo Pro.
> 
> Thanks.


If I can ever get my hands on samples, I'll let you know. 

Anyone care to sell me a few sheets? PayPal at the ready. 

As for the CR Pro...I HIGHLY suggest it. If we really start using a lot of transfers I'm going to get one just for those. For now our CE5000-60 (the CR Pro's big brother) will have to do.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Chani said:


> Yes.
> 
> Okay, I remember reading that post now, but I also remember reading the post that someone had trouble with intricate designs on that setting.
> 
> ...


You can buy a sample package of 5 pcs. That is how I got my samples. The package sizes are listed in the website. You can also opt to send it by USPS.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Ah...that must be new. They didn't have that when I asked.

Thanks!

[edit] Or I just missed it  [/edit]


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Chani said:


> Ah...that must be new. They didn't have that when I asked.
> 
> Thanks!


As far as I can tell they have a program for sample with pay in all their heat transfer product except the equipment, ink product etc. of course. After all the company's motto is "Try the milk before buying the Cow" (clever).


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## Heidisp (Nov 12, 2007)

I ordered a pack of their opaque like badalou used in his video. I can't wait for it to get here for me to try.


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## JinxxD (Dec 6, 2007)

Hey

I want to get some ironALL to try, but before I do, can anyone tell me how lasting the ironALL for darks is ... how many washes it can take before it fades or flakes.

Thanks guys

x


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

JinxxD said:


> Hey
> 
> I want to get some ironALL to try, but before I do, can anyone tell me how lasting the ironALL for darks is ... how many washes it can take before it fades or flakes.
> 
> ...


Iron all does not flake after it is on the shirt. But it can before you apply. Now the new SofStretch available from coastal does not. Now Iron all over time wash out.. you can say ade but it really washing out. Sofstretch maty also butr from my wash test it is very slow to do so. It is new and the test shirts have onlu been washed 5 tis and seem to be hold up very well. Lou


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Lou when you are talking about Sofstretch I have washed my first shirt now 10 times and only thing is fiber showing and making it look faded used cheap shirt on the first one or the 100 percent cotton is just do this but the pic is holding up good


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## JinxxD (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks lou

Id like to get one of the stretch ones, so which would you recomend me to get? the ironALL or the softstretch from coastal/.

x


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

JinxxD said:


> Thanks lou
> 
> Id like to get one of the stretch ones, so which would you recomend me to get? the ironALL or the softstretch from coastal/.
> 
> x


For lights sofstretch for darks iron all for darks.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

badalou said:


> For lights sofstretch for darks iron all for darks.


I am getting big complaints from customers about the ironall shirts i sold. Image is completley going to disappear within a year. I have seen some of the shirts after a half dozen washes and it is bad,very bad. I just ordered some softstretch today from coastal. iam wondering, how much better is it Lou? Is it going to wash out on me too? or just fade a bit?


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

im using the d88 standard epson Inks with my ironAll dark and although I have got the pressing to look real nice, the ink is pretty much gone after 3 or 4 washes, not very good.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

majesticmind said:


> I am getting big complaints from customers about the ironall shirts i sold. Image is completley going to disappear within a year. I have seen some of the shirts after a half dozen washes and it is bad,very bad. I just ordered some softstretch today from coastal. iam wondering, how much better is it Lou? Is it going to wash out on me too? or just fade a bit?


I can't tell you the number of times I have told you folks. Iron All has limited uses.It will wash out over time (Not fade, that is what pictures do.) If you don't tell your client the facts of using a product that will do this then you are only going to hurt yourself. I tell all my clients the facts. I have a school that wants 30 shirts with 30 different pictures. I told them the only way I was to do this was with commercial grade heat transfer paper made on an inkjet printer and the picture will wash out over time. I will be using Jet-Pro SofStretch as they are going on white shirts. The design will last longer then Iron ALL. They understood. The shirts are for an event and it is a one time deal.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

majesticmind said:


> I am getting big complaints from customers about the ironall shirts i sold. Image is completley going to disappear within a year. I have seen some of the shirts after a half dozen washes and it is bad,very bad. I just ordered some softstretch today from coastal. iam wondering, how much better is it Lou? Is it going to wash out on me too? or just fade a bit?


Dan I am dumbfounded. My impression from all the posts from Lou was that Ironall is a fine product. Now you speak of 12 washes showing really poor performance. Are you sure that nothing in the process you used to do those shirts might be the problem? Have you rechecked everything? This is important to me, because I need much better quality than that. I may have to realign my thinking that Ironall is indeed in the cheap transfers arena. 12 washes/1 year is definitely weak. Please confirm that perhaps you may have had a problem with temperature or pressure that skipped you, or anything else, (I hope).
Thank you.


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

NicMartel said:


> Dan I am dumbfounded. My impression from all the posts from Lou was that Ironall is a fine product. Now you speak of 12 washes showing really poor performance. Are you sure that nothing in the process you used to do those shirts might be the problem? Have you rechecked everything? This is important to me, because I need much better quality than that. I may have to realign my thinking that Ironall is indeed in the cheap transfers arena. 12 washes/1 year is definitely weak. Please confirm that perhaps you may have had a problem with temperature or pressure that skipped you, or anything else, (I hope).
> Thank you.


I use a very mild non bio detergent on cold wash inside out and the prints were seriously crappy and washed out after 3 washes, however when I have sold these shirts I have made my customers fully aware of the products limited use, its really ideal for quick fix promotional work. As i stated above im using stock epson d88 (c88+) inks


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

NicMartel said:


> Dan I am dumbfounded. My impression from all the posts from Lou was that Ironall is a fine product. Now you speak of 12 washes showing really poor performance. Are you sure that nothing in the process you used to do those shirts might be the problem? Have you rechecked everything? This is important to me, because I need much better quality than that. I may have to realign my thinking that Ironall is indeed in the cheap transfers arena. 12 washes/1 year is definitely weak. Please confirm that perhaps you may have had a problem with temperature or pressure that skipped you, or anything else, (I hope).
> Thank you.


That is half a dozenn not 12 washes. The print was done properly. And even Lou just said that it does not just fade it comes right off over time. He knows moore than I do. I guess the stuff from coastal will to but over time. I have some shirts I ddid for myself and my son that have stood up to repeated washings though. Now after discussing it with my wife , we noticed one diference. The shirts where we are getting comp[laints were done with epson inks. The others were done with an ink that i buy from the same place i get my sublimation ink. And so far i dont see any fading or loss of image. Only after the first wash. But not any more loss after that. One of the pryer posts said that the epson d88 ink lost the image too. I am going to put some of my personal shirts through the ringer a few times obver and over and see if the ink i am using now is making a big diference or if its just my wishful thinking.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

I will let you know if the new ink we have been using is staying on the shirt. I am curious to know if Lou uses the standard epson inks on iron all lites when he noticed image loss. What kind of ink do you use Lou? the ink iam using does not even have a brand name on it just like my sublimation ink. just blank bottles. $10 for a 100ml bottle and $50 for a ml bottle of sublimation ink.No name.China.Man we just did a show on the weekend and i hope the stuff we did holds up with the new ink cause our shirts will make it all over the place as the show from people from many areas.but like any other business it all a learning process. But i would prefer to learn from somebody elses mistaks inasted of my own. not always the case though.,


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Ok *Dan*, 1/2 dozen(even worse, lol)

I had meant to mention ink as I know it makes a huge difference what inks are used. I am glad to hear that this may be the problem. As you mentioned I too prefer to learn from others mistakes especially now on the onset.

Hopefully you can nail it and replace the shirts with new ones printed with the correct ink. You may lose a bit of money, but it should solidify your reputation.
I am very appreciative of your posts.

I happen to have read *James*' post after yours and had noticed he was using an OEM ink, and I suspected that was trouble too.

Thank you both. I will keep an eye for future posts.


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## RocknRoePromo (Aug 18, 2007)

I need help...in many ways lol. Anyway, I used the ironall dark transfers on a black t-shirt. I put a black background behind the image and when I pressed it the black part came out like a faded black. I used an epson c88+ with durabrite inks, pressed med pressure at 375 degrees for 25 secs. I'm sure it's not the black ink because when I use the ironall light transfers the black comes out perfect. Anyone know what I did wrong or have a suggestion on how I can fix it so the black comes out black? Thanks.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

OK.. Iron All (New stuff sold under different names) has limited uses. I keep hearing the term fade. It does not fade it loses its color after numerous washes. I have shirts that have been washed 50 times and I have shirts that have been washed 10 times. (remember I am talking about IRON ALL, not Iron all for darks. I have also shirts from the first iron all that you can see the design after washing and wearing for over a year. It may not be as great as it was. The standard ink is epson ink (durabrite) not anything from China. I also have shirts printed with Everlast pigment inks from Coastal. I pre press for about 5 seconds. I press at med to heavy at 375. for 15-20 seconds That's it no secrets. There are things that can affect the print I think.. fabric type as cotton vs 50 /50. I have a shirt ash in color that has held up well and another that is white where the picture is almost gone. Most of what I tell and show here is the initial test. what it looks like. I can't keep washing and showing. But the other members have done a great job doing this. Now Iron All for darks is remember a vinyl. it sits on top of the fabric not in the fabric as iron all. Any color distortion will be caused by washing over time. Remember it is not plastisol ink. It is ink unlike ink plastisol. When I was a demo rep for Epson. I would place a picture in a glass of water for 4 hours during my demo time. I never had one picture lose its color. Can't say that about dye inks. OK.. now Jet Pro Sofstretch is not from the people. I did do a print as I have posted and have now done 5 washes of the shirt. 100% cotton, white.. The picture is holding up and looks the same as it did after the first wash. I think that is great but, and there is alway a but.. will it hold up after 20 washes. ????? OK all that said I don't sell the paper. I say what I say based on the information at the time. I never want to do a mis service to all of you by giving you the impression that anything I show will not at sometime give you a problem.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

badalou said:


> OK.. Iron All (New stuff sold under different names) has limited uses. I keep hearing the term fade. It does not fade it loses its color after numerous washes. I have shirts that have been washed 50 times and I have shirts that have been washed 10 times. (remember I am talking about IRON ALL, not Iron all for darks. I have also shirts from the first iron all that you can see the design after washing and wearing for over a year. It may not be as great as it was. The standard ink is epson ink (durabrite) not anything from China. I also have shirts printed with Everlast pigment inks from Coastal. I pre press for about 5 seconds. I press at med to heavy at 375. for 15-20 seconds That's it no secrets. There are things that can affect the print I think.. fabric type as cotton vs 50 /50. I have a shirt ash in color that has held up well and another that is white where the picture is almost gone. Most of what I tell and show here is the initial test. what it looks like. I can't keep washing and showing. But the other members have done a great job doing this. Now Iron All for darks is remember a vinyl. it sits on top of the fabric not in the fabric as iron all. Any color distortion will be caused by washing over time. Remember it is not plastisol ink. It is ink unlike ink plastisol. When I was a demo rep for Epson. I would place a picture in a glass of water for 4 hours during my demo time. I never had one picture lose its color. Can't say that about dye inks. OK.. now Jet Pro Sofstretch is not from the people. I did do a print as I have posted and have now done 5 washes of the shirt. 100% cotton, white.. The picture is holding up and looks the same as it did after the first wash. I think that is great but, and there is alway a but.. will it hold up after 20 washes. ????? OK all that said I don't sell the paper. I say what I say based on the information at the time. I never want to do a mis service to all of you by giving you the impression that anything I show will not at sometime give you a problem.


Lou thanks again. I dont think anybody here has ever been done a mis service by you. Your experience and willingness to share it has helped us all.


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

RocknRoePromo said:


> I need help...in many ways lol. Anyway, I used the ironall dark transfers on a black t-shirt. I put a black background behind the image and when I pressed it the black part came out like a faded black. I used an epson c88+ with durabrite inks, pressed med pressure at 375 degrees for 25 secs. I'm sure it's not the black ink because when I use the ironall light transfers the black comes out perfect. Anyone know what I did wrong or have a suggestion on how I can fix it so the black comes out black? Thanks.


I find 25 seconds is much to long, I press mine at that temperature for 14 seconds at a medim pressure and the black stays solid, I had trouble with black fading untill i reduced the time, I would experiment with your times.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Lou if it wasn,t for you I would have never got into the Tees-shirt Business I have all ready made my money back I appreciate every thing you Have done here and you have showed me A lot with your videos and I have had A lot of ups and downs with my learning experience this is what makes me better person and keep up doing what you do becouse it shows that there is new things to learn from each others


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## transfer fun (Aug 17, 2006)

RocknRoePromo said:


> I need help...in many ways lol. Anyway, I used the ironall dark transfers on a black t-shirt. I put a black background behind the image and when I pressed it the black part came out like a faded black. I used an epson c88+ with durabrite inks, pressed med pressure at 375 degrees for 25 secs. I'm sure it's not the black ink because when I use the ironall light transfers the black comes out perfect. Anyone know what I did wrong or have a suggestion on how I can fix it so the black comes out black? Thanks.


I press the Ironall dark at 375 F for 10 seconds. No problems so far and I also notice increased opacity with less time.


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## jamos (Sep 5, 2007)

transfer fun said:


> I press the Ironall dark at 375 F for 10 seconds. No problems so far and I also notice increased opacity with less time.


 
exactly.... the instuctions that ironall dark ships with are pretty crazy


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## RocknRoePromo (Aug 18, 2007)

It's not that the black on the shirt is fading, it's that when I press it, it comes out looking like a faded black color instead of a solid black color. I tried pressing it at 10 secs like the instructions said, then 15 secs, then 25 secs and it was still looking the same after pressing. I guess I can try changing the pressure next, just wanted to see if there were any other suggestions. Thanks


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

transfer fun said:


> I press the Ironall dark at 375 F for 10 seconds. No problems so far and I also notice increased opacity with less time.


You know what I have the same experience. However, the color is wearing off after 4 washes. I did two shirts 1 pressed with inkjet ink and the other with laser toner (photo in post #38). I pressed the inkjet transfer per instruction and I noticed the color turned washed out (not vibrant) and the opaque became a little bit darker. So I decided to lower the dwell time to 10 seconds at low pressure when I pressed the laser version and the color was vibrant and the ironall for dark did not darken.

After washing the two shirts four times the color in the laser version was wearing off but the inkjet stayed pretty much the same before wash although it looked washed out when it was pressed.

So I think lowering the dwell time did not allow the toner to bond very well on the opaque material but the inkjet did which was pressed at a lot higher dwell time.


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

mrdavid said:


> Hi Lou if it wasn,t for you I would have never got into the Tees-shirt Business I have all ready made my money back I appreciate every thing you Have done here and you have showed me A lot with your videos and I have had A lot of ups and downs with my learning experience this is what makes me better person and keep up doing what you do becouse it shows that there is new things to learn from each others


I think Lou's been an inspiration to many on this forum. I too blame / credit D ) Lou for me getting into the custom side of the t-shirt business. LOL

We started with a heat press, transfer paper and plastisol transfers from First-Edition. We now do DTG, plastisol, heat transfers, vinyl, sublimation and have just hired a retired & bored screenprinter who is going to help us expand the screenprinting side of our business so we'll be able to do that inhouse eventually.

I for one am very grateful to Lou and the many other helpful people on this great forum!!

Hey Lou.....this Bud's for you!!!  

John


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

treadhead said:


> I think Lou's been an inspiration to many on this forum. I too blame / credit D ) Lou for me getting into the custom side of the t-shirt business. LOL
> 
> We started with a heat press, transfer paper and plastisol transfers from First-Edition. We now do DTG, plastisol, heat transfers, vinyl, sublimation and have just hired a retired & bored screenprinter who is going to help us expand the screenprinting side of our business so we'll be able to do that inhouse eventually.
> 
> ...


wow another Bud drinker.. Hey guys thanks.. Sometime people don't like the answers I give.. And I know sometimes people just don't get my since of humor..


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## Buechee (Dec 22, 2005)

Who else makes this paper? How did the iron all come out after a few washes Lou?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Buechee said:


> Who else makes this paper? How did the iron all come out after a few washes Lou?


mark, I am sorry I just do not know. There are many veribles about transfers and I hope to cover them in my new web site. It could be.. type of 1.material 2. heat press 3. Were the inks pigment? 4. washing temperature. (We wash cold water and tide.. I mean the wife does.. God for bid I should screw that up.) I have shirts that I did with the first iron all and they are in different stages. These shirts are over 1 year old and have been washed a minimum of 30 washes each. I am putting them below and I will see if I can find original pictures. The first one was done august , 2006 the first picture is how it looks today. I did the picturesfor this post. The second is how it looked before I washed it first time. The 3rd. Is how this shirt looked in August 2006 and the last is today. They have both washed out a bit but very readable. and this is the First iron all that had all the problems.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Buechee said:


> Who else makes this paper? How did the iron all come out after a few washes Lou?


quote=Buechee;204633]Who else makes this paper? How did the iron all come out after a few washes Lou?[/quote]It was invented by 2 Indian chemist. John at New Milford was one of the first to distribute the paper under the Iron All name. when the new paper came out I bought some transjet II paper from Coastal and made some test shirts. (it is what I do) I was very unhappy with the results of the transjet. I went to the ISS show and met with Kieth from Coastal and showed him the results of the paper. he was impressed. he said they were approched by the manufacturer about selling the paper as well. They did but under another name and soon a lot of people jumped on the bandwagon. I am more then sure the same will happen with Jet Pro. It is made by Neenah.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Skinbus said:


> Regarding iron-all for darks..Unless there is a special tool for cutting this paper I really don't care for it. It's fine if you're cutting straight lines but my designs are very shapely. Cutting this stuff is like cutting chewing gum. Any suggestions? ANYBODY?


Some high quality sewing/material scissors work great!
Go to a sewing/craft store... one that sells material.... go to the sewing machine department and ask to see the high quality sewing scissors. they can range anywhere from 30 bucks to 150 bucks!
but they are SHARP and cut GREAT!!!!
You might also use a small razor knife.?
you can find good sharp precision ones at the craft /art store as well.


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> You know what I have the same experience. However, the color is wearing off after 4 washes. I did two shirts 1 pressed with inkjet ink and the other with laser toner (photo in post #38). I pressed the inkjet transfer per instruction and I noticed the color turned washed out (not vibrant) and the opaque became a little bit darker. So I decided to lower the dwell time to 10 seconds at low pressure when I pressed the laser version and the color was vibrant and the ironall for dark did not darken.
> 
> After washing the two shirts four times the color in the laser version was wearing off but the inkjet stayed pretty much the same before wash although it looked washed out when it was pressed.
> 
> So I think lowering the dwell time did not allow the toner to bond very well on the opaque material but the inkjet did which was pressed at a lot higher dwell time.


I have the same result using C88+ and laser printer. But i like the result of C88+ after washing. I have little problem in printing this ironall dark in my C88+ it jammed to my printer. i print 5 sheets and only one sheet that is not jammed. I try the technique of IRONALL light ( pressing or straighting each of the side) but still jammed. Can you please tell me if what technique you used in this new IRONALL dark. thanks


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

MYDAMIT said:


> I have the same result using C88+ and laser printer. But i like the result of C88+ after washing. I have little problem in printing this ironall dark in my C88+ it jammed to my printer. i print 5 sheets and only one sheet that is not jammed. I try the technique of IRONALL light ( pressing or straighting each of the side) but still jammed. Can you please tell me if what technique you used in this new IRONALL dark. thanks


Ironall for dark is thicker than the light version. I used CX5000 Epson inkjet to print on the opaque transfer paper. There is a thick media adjustment with my printer that I change so that the transfer paper will go through the printer without jamming. It is meant for printing envelop. Check your user manual and look for setting on printing on envelop.


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

Ok i will try that...thanks!

Does anyone here used the forever dark or forever sublidark?SubliDark Sublimation Transfer Paper for Darks 8.5x11" 50 or 100 Packs


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

MYDAMIT said:


> Ok i will try that...thanks!
> 
> Does anyone here used the forever dark or forever sublidark?SubliDark Sublimation Transfer Paper for Darks 8.5x11" 50 or 100 Packs


 
Here is the result of my test with Forever Dark about 8 months ago: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attach...t-transfer-paper-other-questions-fscn0032.jpg

It was fine when washed in cold water and then hang dry. My wife made the mistake in throwing it in the dryer with the rest of the laundry once and it cracked and peeled horribly.

It has a glossy finish and felt like a raincoat. I am not sure if the company has made new changes since I tried it. So I don't know if it is better nowadays.

Do a search for Forever Dark and you will find the same opinion about the product. Some of these members that posted are European that has the product readily available to them. They would have first hand info if the product had any improvement made to it.


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

I saw the video of FOREVER sublidark and it printed mirror image and using sublimation ink. I think i will try thsi paper. I like the ironall but still problem in printing. What opaque paper are you using?I tried Laser Opaque 1( i didn't like the result). thanks Luis


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

MYDAMIT said:


> I saw the video of FOREVER sublidark and it printed mirror image and using sublimation ink. I think i will try thsi paper. I like the ironall but still problem in printing. What opaque paper are you using?I tried Laser Opaque 1( i didn't like the result). thanks Luis


I tried Ironall for dark but did not like the muted color with inkjet and the toner wears off in the laser version after few washes. I have not tried it ever since. I am holding my breath with what Neenah is up to. I heard the company is developing an Ironall look alike for dark that has similar property as Jetpro SofStrecth for light.

You can try my favorite. It is sold by Airwaves Inc. The material is made of tight weave 100% polyester fabric with self adhesive just like ironall for dark. It is thicker. It has matte finish and does not feel like a raincoat. It has softer hand than most I have tried. It can be printed with sublimation ink. You can directly print on it with inkjet. I tried printing pigment ink and the image looked good. I did not press it though. So I don't know how it is wash ability wise. My guess is it will wash off since the material is polyester. Actually if you print on it other than inkjet then it becomes a two process. You first prepress a preprinted transfer on it, trim it , peel the backing, lay it on the shirt and then do the final press and peel.

Here is the photo of the one I did with Imageclip:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachments/1846d1186297689-airwaves-opaque-imageclip-dscn0143web1.jpg

I did not do a good job when peeling the two sheets of Imageclip so there are some polymer specks pressed on the shirt as indicated by the arrows.

The shirt have been through wash at least eight times and it still looked as the day it was pressed. The edges frayed a little bit but it has not gotten any worse. No cracking or peeling. It stretches with the shirt but not as stretchy as Ironall for dark.

I suggest you call Airwaves and get some sample to try. Make sure you ask for the fabric opaque.


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## freestylezz (Oct 21, 2007)

Gordo said:


> Ok Success at last in cutting iron all dark with my roland gx 24. The 60 degree blade works great. Force of 60 grams ....Thanks K!!


hey Gordo, what process and materials are required to cut ironall dark with gx24
is it that easy to just buy gx24 and cut the ironall with it?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I guess now that I have a GX-24 here I should go ahead and get some more IronAll Dark and try it out on this machine, tho I don't know why it would be different than on our Graphtec.

Still, I'll give it a try.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Chani said:


> I guess now that I have a GX-24 here I should go ahead and get some more IronAll Dark and try it out on this machine, tho I don't know why it would be different than on our Graphtec.
> 
> Still, I'll give it a try.


Me too. I have yet to cut a transfer paper with mine and I have had it for months.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Once you do, I doubt you'll ever go back to hand-trimming.


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## freestylezz (Oct 21, 2007)

is there any cheaper cutter? gx24 is too expensive for my budget right now. i only need to cut transfer paper instead of hand-trimming.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Uzii,

I'm just about to test out the new LaserPoint plotter from US Cutter. It will contour cut around your printed images. It costs $420 + shipping.

I haven't tried it out yet, so I'm not sure how well it will do, but if it works well I'll be able to recommend it.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

lnfortun said:


> I tried Ironall for dark but did not like the muted color with inkjet and the toner wears off in the laser version after few washes. I have not tried it ever since. I am holding my breath with what Neenah is up to. I heard the company is developing an Ironall look alike for dark that has similar property as Jetpro SofStrecth for light.
> 
> You can try my favorite. It is sold by Airwaves Inc. The material is made of tight weave 100% polyester fabric with self adhesive just like ironall for dark. It is thicker. It has matte finish and does not feel like a raincoat. It has softer hand than most I have tried. It can be printed with sublimation ink. You can directly print on it with inkjet. I tried printing pigment ink and the image looked good. I did not press it though. So I don't know how it is wash ability wise. My guess is it will wash off since the material is polyester. Actually if you print on it other than inkjet then it becomes a two process. You first prepress a preprinted transfer on it, trim it , peel the backing, lay it on the shirt and then do the final press and peel.
> 
> ...


what is the exact name of this paper??? 
thanks


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

lnfortun said:


> I tried Ironall for dark but did not like the muted color with inkjet and the toner wears off in the laser version after few washes. I have not tried it ever since. I am holding my breath with what Neenah is up to. I heard the company is developing an Ironall look alike for dark that has similar property as Jetpro SofStrecth for light.
> 
> You can try my favorite. It is sold by Airwaves Inc. The material is made of tight weave 100% polyester fabric with self adhesive just like ironall for dark. It is thicker. It has matte finish and does not feel like a raincoat. It has softer hand than most I have tried. It can be printed with sublimation ink. You can directly print on it with inkjet. I tried printing pigment ink and the image looked good. I did not press it though. So I don't know how it is wash ability wise. My guess is it will wash off since the material is polyester. Actually if you print on it other than inkjet then it becomes a two process. You first prepress a preprinted transfer on it, trim it , peel the backing, lay it on the shirt and then do the final press and peel.
> 
> ...


oh yes... i see it now ...FABRIC OPAQUE


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## freestylezz (Oct 21, 2007)

Chani said:


> Hi Uzii,
> 
> I'm just about to test out the new LaserPoint plotter from US Cutter. It will contour cut around your printed images. It costs $420 + shipping.
> 
> I haven't tried it out yet, so I'm not sure how well it will do, but if it works well I'll be able to recommend it.


thankx Chani... keep me updated on this cutter when u use it.


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## Tizz (Mar 8, 2008)

Chani said:


> Hi Uzii,
> 
> I'm just about to test out the new LaserPoint plotter from US Cutter. It will contour cut around your printed images. It costs $420 + shipping.
> 
> I haven't tried it out yet, so I'm not sure how well it will do, but if it works well I'll be able to recommend it.


Hi Chani,


I too am looking forward in hearing your feedback on this cutter.

Tizz


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## ivangeer (Jul 12, 2007)

I have been searching for this Carrier sheet. What type of paper is this ?? And where can i buy this ??

Ivan




Chani said:


> Or:
> 
> With _opaque_ papers, cutting them on a vinyl cutter is VERY easy. You DON'T need a carrier sheet. Just set your downforce to a very low value (I use 30 grams). Then, just peel your transfer off of the built-in carrier sheet.
> 
> ...


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Ivan,

You can buy Magic Mask at Imprintables Warehouse, Stahls, or Beacon Graphics.

Imprintables also carries a brand called TTD mask, which Josh Ellsworth from Imprintables has told me performs a little better than Magic Mask.

Good luck!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Hi Chani,

Did you have any luck cutting Ironall for dark? If you did I must have missed your post.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

No, not on our Graphtec.


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## gothicaleigh (Jun 16, 2007)

Gah.

Trying to print on the Iron All for darks paper, but something is going horribly wrong.

Has anyone run this paper through an Epson using K3 inks? What paper type do I set my RIP at? I've tried the Adhesive Vinyl paper setting in ColorBurst and the common 'Photo Quality Ink Jet Paper' setting in the Epson printer driver straight from Photoshop. Both bleed out into the paper and look smeared. Printed the design out on matte paper and it comes out perfect. Help!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

You are putting too much ink. Try using text & image setting in the printer driver. Use the plain paper setting.


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## freestylezz (Oct 21, 2007)

gothicaleigh said:


> Gah.
> 
> Trying to print on the Iron All for darks paper, but something is going horribly wrong.
> 
> Has anyone run this paper through an Epson using K3 inks? What paper type do I set my RIP at? I've tried the Adhesive Vinyl paper setting in ColorBurst and the common 'Photo Quality Ink Jet Paper' setting in the Epson printer driver straight from Photoshop. Both bleed out into the paper and look smeared. Printed the design out on matte paper and it comes out perfect. Help!



are you using CIS? ive had that problem when i placed the ink level higher than printer. the tubes need to be on the same plane as printer... hopefully it make sense


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Which Epson are you using Caleigh? I think both the boyz gave you good advice. Hope it helps.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

I guess I need to get on the ball and do a video on the everlast for darks. (Iron All for darks, same paper.) I have had no problems in printing with myc88+ or c120. I also did countour cutting with my Roland. Hope you guys a printing on th4 right side? But of course you are.. Lou


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I've printed on the wrong side. 

The ink never dried, it was my first clue, haha.
Then I felt really embarrassed in front of myself.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> I've printed on the wrong side.
> 
> The ink never dried, it was my first clue, haha.
> Then I felt really embarrassed in front of myself.


Don't feel bad.. I have as well.


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## gothicaleigh (Jun 16, 2007)

Lnfortun said:


> You are putting too much ink. Try using text & image setting in the printer driver. Use the plain paper setting.


I figured as much. The instructions that New Milford sends out with the paper suggest using 'Photo-Quality inkjet' as the paper setting on the larger Epsons listed, which is why I went with those.

I get less bleeding using the Epson driver's Plain Paper setting. Sharp detail still bleeds out too much, making crisp lines seems impossible with this paper.
Still, it's passable for a job that I need to have in the mail today. An even more irritating problem that has now emerged is the paper grain. There is a 'grain' to the paper that runs at about a 30 degree angle and using the Plain Paper setting it isn't filling the 'grain' evenly, so solid colors have an effect reminiscent of print banding. 



freestylezz said:


> are you using CIS? ive had that problem when i placed the ink level higher than printer. the tubes need to be on the same plane as printer... hopefully it make sense





Girlzndollz said:


> Which Epson are you using Caleigh?


It's an Epson 7800 running 8 color K3 (photo blacks installed). It has a built in CIS in the form of 220mL pressurized cartridges. 

The design prints perfectly on matte paper (the banding on the Ironall follows the grain, not the printhead), but has bleed using even the lightest settings on the IronAll paper. I can print to textured fine art papers and canvas without bleeding using this inkset, so I am beginning to think that the Ironall just will not take ink without it migrating to other fibers of the paper.



badalou said:


> Hope you guys a printing on th4 right side?


The white grainy side, not the waxy side. I too originally made the mistake of loading the wrong side up (forgivable I think seeing as the backing has a noticeably nicer surface than the paper itself). >:\

Extremely irritated that paper costing roughly $2 a sheet will not produce a high quality result. I should have just sublimated this job and been done with it. Unfortunately, I've already agreed to dark Ts and have run out of time to switch to another process now.

Are the holidays over yet? >.<


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

gothicaleigh said:


> I get less bleeding using the Epson driver's Plain Paper setting. Sharp detail still bleeds out too much, making crisp lines seems impossible with this paper.
> Still, it's passable for a job that I need to have in the mail today. An even more irritating problem that has now emerged is the paper grain. There is a 'grain' to the paper that runs at about a 30 degree angle and using the Plain Paper setting it isn't filling the 'grain' evenly, so solid colors have an effect reminiscent of print banding.
> 
> The design prints perfectly on matte paper (the banding on the Ironall follows the grain, not the printhead), but has bleed using even the lightest settings on the IronAll paper. I can print to textured fine art papers and canvas without bleeding using this inkset, so I am beginning to think that the Ironall just will not take ink without it migrating to other fibers of the paper.


I've heard of this problem before. I haven't had that issue, but my batch of Ironall Dk is from last winter, prior to the bad batches of Spring and Summer '08. It seems like the paper from around then had alot of issues, and one of the complaints was the one you list here. The paper has since been reformulated.

Sorry to hear of your troubles, sometimes that is a part of this process, sadly, the papers don't always act the same from batch to batch.


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## deighton (Jan 23, 2008)

I also have been bitten by the bad batch of IronAll, the strange thing is I have since bought another batch which I was told have been corrected and still the same problems. It printed nicely the first time I used a sheet but after doing my wash test, was horrible. Decided to try again and as mentioned previously by someone after printing the image has a grainy look to it.
I still do like it but just want them to get it right as I have to ship overseas and its very costly.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

deighton said:


> I also have been bitten by the bad batch of IronAll, the strange thing is I have since bought another batch which I was told have been corrected and still the same problems. It printed nicely the first time I used a sheet but after doing my wash test, was horrible. Decided to try again and as mentioned previously by someone after printing the image has a grainy look to it.
> I still do like it but just want them to get it right as I have to ship overseas and its very costly.


The thread is about Iron All For darks. Not Iron all. Is your problem with the dark or light.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

> The paper has since been reformulated.


I have been using this product for over a year and as for as I know in the year I have been using it it has not been reformulated. Where did this info come from. Iron All (Lights) was reformulated over a year ago as I introduced that to you all in my videos as well as here. Someone says it has recently been reformulated again but the samples I received recently look identical to the stuff I got a year ago. Lou


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## deighton (Jan 23, 2008)

Was referring to IronAll for Darks. Who do you purchase your IronAll for darks from Lou?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

deighton said:


> Was referring to IronAll for Darks. Who do you purchase your IronAll for darks from Lou?


 
Deighton, here is a list of places you can find Ironall Dark, or one of it's sister papers under other names used by other suppliers.

https://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t59419.html

To find even more suppliers on this paper, you may google Ironall Dark, or Everlast Dark, and you will get more suppliers in that return than what is in the list above.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

bob emb said:


> Hello All,
> 
> First time on the post. are your dark transfers weedable -meaning is your image just a total rectangle with the print inside or are there voids in the print where the shirt actually shows through. I tried something like wht you folks are using and did not care for the detail or quality.
> 
> ...


There is one Wow 7.1 but the price is very prohibitve. If I may ask what do you have to offer besides DTG in the form of opaque heat transfer paper?


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