# Question for those who have Dye Sub w/ Laser and Inkjet



## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

I just started dye subing with a Oki5200 and ATI toners. I outsource my Inkjet transfers that i need that are larger then what the Oki can supply me.

Is the difference in inkjet and laser suppose to be this great in color??? It is printed on the same type of shirt Jerzees 21m.
This is the exact same file printed with my Oki. The inkjet one was printed from a Epson 9600.

Oki (toner savings on)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c346/rynxprs/100_0675.jpg

Oki (toner savings off)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c346/rynxprs/100_0677.jpg

Inkjet
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c346/rynxprs/100_0676.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c346/rynxprs/100_0674.jpg


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

Well after Talking to AL at ATI, we worked it all out and my prints are much nicer now.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Glad to hear you got the problem sorted out; sorry we couldn't help you out this time around.


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

No problem.....Thanks!


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## grumpster (Sep 12, 2006)

Well........what was the solution?


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## monsta imports (Nov 30, 2006)

Also what are your shirts made out of? They look like cotton?


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

solution was just fine tuning the pressing requirements and print setup.

The shirts are Jerzees 29m polyester shirts that feel like cotton.


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## monsta imports (Nov 30, 2006)

Interesting I did not know such product was made. I wonder if they sell those in Australia?


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## machine27 (Dec 27, 2006)

RedEye said:


> solution was just fine tuning the pressing requirements and print setup.
> 
> The shirts are Jerzees 29m polyester shirts that feel like cotton.


RedEye, 
hi, couldn't see the pix-maybe there not posted anymore? anyway, i just got the same setup, but haven't been happy at all with my results. used the Hottee
first, but kept getting the grey around the image. then Al sent me some release 
paper with this white liquid that I had to roll on with a hi density roller, -not working at all. better without the white stuff. but I'm still getting the grey around the image. also the colors are dull. reds are brick red, etc. any hints would be
appreciated. thanks.
jimmy


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## rickcaspari (Oct 25, 2006)

RedEye said:


> solution was just fine tuning the pressing requirements and print setup.
> 
> The shirts are Jerzees 29m polyester shirts that feel like cotton.


Jerzees 29m are 50/50 blend correct?


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

rickcaspari said:


> Jerzees 29m are 50/50 blend correct?


I mistyped...I meant to type Jerzees 21m is what I use.

21m are 100% polyester.


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

machine27 said:


> RedEye,
> hi, couldn't see the pix-maybe there not posted anymore? anyway, i just got the same setup, but haven't been happy at all with my results. used the Hottee
> first, but kept getting the grey around the image. then Al sent me some release
> paper with this white liquid that I had to roll on with a hi density roller, -not working at all. better without the white stuff. but I'm still getting the grey around the image. also the colors are dull. reds are brick red, etc. any hints would be
> ...


 
I moved the pics...sorry about that. But I printed them on Jerzess 21m and I didn't get a grey box using the polyester transfer paper.


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## dzine (Aug 14, 2006)

Hi RedEye...

I came upon the ATI website, and then searched the forum to see if anyone else was using their toners.

Have you tested the white toner they are showing on their website?

Here's the link for everyone:
White Sublimation Laser Toner!

Looks very interesting! I am still in the market for which laser printer to buy, so I'm not at the point of experimenting yet. 

I'm going to post another thread to see if anyone else has tried this technology yet, but I would appreciate hearing what you have experienced with ATI as of now.


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## mystysue (Aug 27, 2006)

I have the okidata 5200 laser and got the white toner. We have a sign, banner, digital printing and promo items store. Altho i have had the white toner for about 3 weeks, we have been so busy that i have not had the time to dedicate to even trying it out yet.. Now if those dang customers would give me a moments peace, i could play some ..rof


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## grumpster (Sep 12, 2006)

RedEye said:


> I moved the pics...sorry about that. But I printed them on Jerzess 21m and I didn't get a grey box using the polyester transfer paper.



I have had the toner and paper for a few weeks not but I am still waiting on the drums. I can't wait to play with it my self. If your considering getting to the white toner and getting a printer for it be sure that your printer will work with it. As of right now, there are only a couple of printers that their providing carts and drums for. You can pick up a Oki 5200 at pcnation.com for about $215.00. It's not in their normal inventory but you can find it by searching their site for "okidata 5200" At that price I bought 3 of them. One for normal use, one for dye-sub, and one for the white toner. 

I would not recommend getting just one and swapping out drums/carts all the time. Way to much of a PITA as well as risking damage to your drums. Get two printers if you want to do the white toner.


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## dzine (Aug 14, 2006)

Well, I'll be really curious to know what you both think of the white toner when you get to it....

As far as all that drum talk---cut it out, you're scaring me! Ha. (I obviously am not too familiar w/laser printers yet!) The past 2 years it just seems that everytime I turn around, I'm learning some new, off-the chart software, or messing around with either a new technology or machine. 

Do you ever think "I wish I just wish I drove a bus all day long?"
Ya, me neither! I think if my life ever gets less complicated, I will feel there's something wrong.


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## taurusndixie (Aug 6, 2006)

Hey everyone, interesting thread.
I too have the oki and color dyesub toners, 3 months and not yet setup. 
Before doing so I have been trying to find GOOD pics of this process on 50/50 shirts.
Seems a lot have bought and then sold their setups because the
colors were awful. Maybe that is the reason there seems to be more 
BAD pics of this process than good pics on line.

Anyone care to share GOOD pics of their work with the Oki and dyesub toners ?

Thanks,
Taurus


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## tim3560 (Jan 7, 2007)

RedEye, Where do you buy your Jerzees 21mm from?


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## mystysue (Aug 27, 2006)

I do the laser sub on 50/50 shirts all the time.. and for the most part love them.. I think its one of those things where you need to decide by looking at the design which way you will go. I do not at this time sell online.. I sell thur my sign and digital printing shop.. so ill have to take some pictures and will put them up..


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## RedEye (Aug 18, 2006)

Oki_rules said:


> I've been doing inkjet for years. I've had an oki sub laser for a year with mediocre results. I am ordering a colorstarink.com sub laser system this week based on the results that I've seen first hand. It's not based on the oki printer (which is half the problem). Colorstar Ink's system is based on the Konica Minolta 2530DL printer at 2400 dpi. I checked on this printer (it's a new model as compared to an "end of life" printer). I can get one at sam's club for about $250 plus tax. The results are night and day... the Colorstar Ink system produces vivid photographic results with none of the issues that I have with the Oki. I'm ordering it from colorstarink.com


 
i just read about this...and I am very excited about it. too bad i ust don't have the cash right now for it. i wasn't really impressed with the Oki results so I sold it.


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## Fred (Jan 17, 2007)

What type of setups is everyone using for their laser sublimation?

What size output do these printers have?


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## Fred (Jan 17, 2007)

No one has anything large than legal unless you send it in?


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## grumpster (Sep 12, 2006)

There's only a few wide format laser printer out there and even fewer that are supported by dye sub toner. The cost for the wide format printers is way high (2-3 k) and when you add the cost of the toner it makes for quite a initial investment. 

I use my Oki 5200 with great results on graphics, lettering, logos and such. The laser is much faster and way less hassle than ink jet and has zero dry time. When I'm looking for photo realistic images or wide format, I go over to my dye sub ink jet or pigment ink jet depending on what fabric I'm working with. Dye sub inks for polys and pigment inks with iron-all for the 50/50's and cottons. 

I also exclusively use dye sub ink jet for ceramics, metals and other hard goods. I think that on hard goods, especially ceramics that the dye sub ink jet looks better than the laser dye sub. In short, I use both and both have major advantages. 

If you only get one system, then the ink jet is probably the way to go. If you know that you don't need wide format and your printing graphics and not photos, then your better off with laser. If you don't know what images you'll be printing then start out with ink jet and add laser later if it makes since.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

mystysue said:


> I do the laser sub on 50/50 shirts all the time.. and for the most part love them.. I think its one of those things where you need to decide by looking at the design which way you will go. I do not at this time sell online.. I sell thur my sign and digital printing shop.. so ill have to take some pictures and will put them up..


 
Sueeeeeee! How are you, Sue? I miss you, Sue. I hope you find this message:

Dear Sue...

This white toner looks very interesting to me. I didn't know it existed until Sunny posted a link to this thread. 

Sue, how do you like the 50/50 shirts? Do they last? Are they soft?

Have you done any 100% cotton shirts with this process?

Do you use different printers and keep one for white? How does this work? 

I know you are busy, I hope you are making alot of good dough! 

If you get a chance to update this, I'd be so happy! 

If anyone else has info to add on this process, I thank you, too! Have a great night.


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