# Ink fade after wash



## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

Hello-

I printed a shirt on a 50/50 cotton/polyester blend and the shirt looked ok after a wash. Then i printed on a 100% cotton shirt and it faded very much so. Has anyone else had this issue? 
What is this about curing ink? Ive read that versatex needs a fxxer but i use the speedball fabric ink. i just hang them to dry. is it still necessary for me to cure the ink? (heat gun?)

I am planning to work on clothing design for a while and cannot have such significant fade. Plz advise. Thks

-fELBSY


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

Speedball BLOWS. Toss it. Do yourself a favor and research proper plastisol. You are screenprinting, yes? You are in the wrong section with this post. But, yes, you need to cure your ink, the best solution being a conveyor dryer set to an exact temperature. Most plastisol cures at 320 - 350 degrees.


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

I heard the cleanup for plastisol is a process. Right now i just wash the ink off in a slop sink. can i do that for plastisol or there chemicals involved?


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

I use a soy additive by Franmar. Takes the plastisol off easy-breezy and it's safe for a regular drain.


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

I do not have access to a converyor dryer, would a heat gun or blow dryer work? im doing this myself in my basement. i appreciate the help


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

People use heat-guns but I wouldn't recommend it since you can get even coverage or *exactly* the temperature you need. Blow dryer doesn't get got enough.

If you don't cure it properly you risk it under or over curing, resulting in the print either washing out or cracking, or both. The cheaper median would be a flash dryer...


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

fELBSY said:


> Hello-
> 
> I printed a shirt on a 50/50 cotton/polyester blend and the shirt looked ok after a wash. Then i printed on a 100% cotton shirt and it faded very much so. Has anyone else had this issue?
> What is this about curing ink? Ive read that versatex needs a fxxer but i use the speedball fabric ink. i just hang them to dry. is it still necessary for me to cure the ink? (heat gun?)
> ...


I have a flash brand new never used $650.00 Us plus $100.00 for shipping to the US. Pm me if your interested. Heres some details:

The 18x18" flash gives you a full larger curing capacity as well as a possible quicker flash time between colors. The 18x18" flash features a 1800 watt element which is one of the most aggressive elements on the market makes heating even. 
- 900-1800 watt heating elements
- Full 18" X 18" heat opening
- 24" X 19" overall measurement
- 360-degree level swivel head
- 90 degree up swivel head
- Adjustable height floor stand (from 30" to 40")
- Switch control 900W or 1800W
- Attachment 2 fans, increase 20% -30% efficiency
and very even heating.
- Voltage 120 - Standard voltage.- Amps 17
- Breaker Size 20 Amp
- 5 Year Limited Warranty


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

That sounds like what i need, except i am doing this in my basement in my spare time, and as such- have limited space and funds. im going to have to stick with speedball ink for now. Ill just have to really gob the ink on to counteract fading.


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

Won't work.


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

This is frustrating. 

All i want to do is create tshirts for me and my friends as a hobby, not some big business. Is the only way to use plastisol inks and an expensive drying machine???


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## txjake (Dec 2, 2008)

You can also cure plastisol in your kitchen oven. Most plastisol has to reach a temp of 320-350 to cure... I understand that about 45 seconds to 1 minute in an oven set at 450 will do the trick.

Curing is the big issue. Regardless of what type of ink you use, read up on the curing requirements and make sure it happens. People do this as a hobby all the time... but hobby or profession, quality matters.

Good luck to you


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

Pretty sure the Mona Lisa wasn't done with a toothbrush. Having the right tools is always important.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

txjake said:


> You can also cure plastisol in your kitchen oven. Most plastisol has to reach a temp of 320-350 to cure... I understand that about 45 seconds to 1 minute in an oven set at 450 will do the trick.
> 
> Curing is the big issue. Regardless of what type of ink you use, read up on the curing requirements and make sure it happens. People do this as a hobby all the time... but hobby or profession, quality matters.
> 
> Good luck to you


I would be interested to see how many shirts you burn trying that out.


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## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

fELBSY said:


> That sounds like what i need, except i am doing this in my basement in my spare time, and as such- have limited space and funds. im going to have to stick with speedball ink for now. Ill just have to really gob the ink on to counteract fading.


If you gob the ink on even thicker you will get ink that will not cure cause its too thick. It will be wet underneath.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

majesticmind said:


> I would be interested to see how many shirts you burn trying that out.


People have been using home ovens and homemade ovens/curing units for decades. They are slow but they work.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

fELBSY said:


> This is frustrating.
> 
> All i want to do is create tshirts for me and my friends as a hobby, not some big business. Is the only way to use plastisol inks and an expensive drying machine???


There are catalysts you can add to water based inks that will make them fully cure without a dryer. I can't give you specifics as I've only used plastisols but maybe someone can fill in the details.


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## txjake (Dec 2, 2008)

majesticmind said:


> I would be interested to see how many shirts you burn trying that out.


Haha.... there are a lot of graybeards from the old school on these boards. I drug my first squeegee back when Van Halen still had their original lead singer (before this year's reunion I mean...) I could also tell you how to effectively use duct tape, baling wire, WD40 and loose change to keep from shutting down production due to broken equipment lol

No.... using a kitchen oven would definitely not be the most efficient way to cure ink... but it will do a damn fine job when most other methods fail. And a young man on a tight budget who is trying to learn to screenprint is probably looking for some cheap alternatives that work... and I bet he already has a kitchen oven


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

My concern is that pesky ink-smoke that comes off, and the fibrous grey matter it leaves in fans and such... do you really want that around a food-safe area?


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## txjake (Dec 2, 2008)

cycocyco said:


> My concern is that pesky ink-smoke that comes off, and the fibrous grey matter it leaves in fans and such... do you really want that around a food-safe area?


It leaves an oaky aftertaste... way better than bell peppers 

I don't really know... never used my own oven. Just helped the guy across town do it a few times.

You're probably right though... I wouldn't think it'd be a good permanent thing to do. But it will get you through a job or two.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

cycocyco said:


> My concern is that pesky ink-smoke that comes off, and the fibrous grey matter it leaves in fans and such... do you really want that around a food-safe area?


From what I've read there is nothing harmful in the vapors although it is recommend that you have ventilation.
Isn't the grey stuff dust? Just like the grey stuff on every other fan?

I wouldn't use the oven in my kitchen nor would I print in my kitchen but there is nothing magical about conveyor dryers, they are better but other heat sources will cure plastisol.


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

Thanks for the info, a conventional oven is way too slow of a process for me. ill just continue using the water based ink i have and will eventually get a flash dryer. Cheapest i found was $300. anyone experiment with less fade on 50/50 blend as opposed to 100% cotton?


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

Well if you want speed then you'll have to splurge for a conveyor dryer. A flash isn't much faster, if any, than an oven.


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## fELBSY (Dec 20, 2008)

about how long does it take for a flash dryer to congeel the ink? im assuming flash dryers are eaiser than using an oven. plus, id imagie conveyors take up more space


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

Plastisol 'gels' at 120 - 150 degrees (allowing you to put another layer on it) and 'cures' at 320 - 350. You can gel in little time, 5 - 10 seconds, and curing depends on the heat of your dryer, and will change depending on your design, dryer, ambient temperature, etc etc etc. I cure an average t-shirt in about 30-40 seconds running through a dryer set at 360 - 400 degrees.


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## txjake (Dec 2, 2008)

I can only tell you regarding plastisol... when flashing between colors, it takes 10-15 seconds to gel the ink for a second coat or another color. Not sure how long to get the ink up to the required 33o degrees... maybe 25-30 seconds. I'm sure there would be some experimentation involved... like how close the element is to the shirts, etc.

There are some companies that manufacture table-top conveyor dryers... don't take up much space at all. Back about 10 years ago, I used a conveyor that was about 24 feet long... was a total dinosaur that ate electricity by the ton. Now I use one that's only about 5 feet long. It's just as fast and uses a fraction of the juice. 

It'd be worth thinkin' about


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## cycocyco (Mar 2, 2007)

If you are crafty, it'd be pretty easy to make a conveyor dryer. I'm sure there are designs out there. It's at its core just a motor, an element, and some knobs.


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