# I need advice on washing out screen. epic fails



## blackout1 (Jan 27, 2011)

Hey Guys, I need some advice on burning the image and also rinsing it out. I have done it a million times and watched countless videos but still having issues.


QUESTIONS:

When burning the image how long should I do it for? I'm using (1) 500W Flood Light about 12-16" away from screen.

Can you over-expose without issues? Like let it burn longer for a longer lasting stencil?

When rinsing what is the best procedure? I usually go to DIY Car washes and spray the screen from ink side through. Some times I have the emulsion start to peel off, or the fine detail gets blown away during rinsing. 

Does anyone rinse their screens off at home? Like in the bathtub? What do you use? IF i could figure this out, i'd be set. Thanks in advance


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## dial911forme (Sep 22, 2014)

First things first. Do an exposure test. I use my own from my printer with my art program and my separation software so that I can dial it in with MY setup. There are comercially available step wedge test but I like to use my own stuff so that my exposure times are dialed in exactly.

You can over expose a little for a tougher screen but you may have some detail loss. No big deal if your art dosn't contain much fine detail.

A properly exsposed screen shouldn't need lots of pressure to was out. Most of the time I use only a garden hose sprayer. But it also should hold up to some pressure with good exposure.


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## BreakingBadPrint (Mar 4, 2015)

Im having a similar problem. I have 480w in light source with a vacuum sealed exposure unit. I exposed for 9 minutes and washed out in my shower in cool water not to cold on the shirt side. Everything was pretty good coming out pretty quickly then the top just blew out and only near the top.


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## R03 (Apr 25, 2012)

Your Halogen light.. is the glass out of it? This will cause some issues if it's not. The glass is UV protection. You want that UV for your screen. 

How many coats of emulsion are you using?

yes you can over expose and the image won't wash out at all. How long are you exposing for? at 18 inches I exposed mine for 12 mins. 

Car wash pressure washers are way to strong to wash the screen out. The water hose or shower will work just fine.


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## BreakingBadPrint (Mar 4, 2015)

No the glass is on them. I'm using 2/1 coating 2 on the shIrt side. It's about 15 inches away. I just coated 2 more screens and i let them sit for 24 hours. In using the old shower head.


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## R03 (Apr 25, 2012)

BreakingBadPrint said:


> No the glass is on them. I'm using 2/1 coating 2 on the shIrt side. It's about 15 inches away. I just coated 2 more screens and i let them sit for 24 hours. In using the old shower head.



ok, you should try 12 mins. how long were you exposing for originally?


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## BreakingBadPrint (Mar 4, 2015)

I just tried 9 minutes and most of it was fine except for the top.


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## Jetstarz99 (Apr 30, 2016)

blackout1 said:


> Hey Guys, I need some advice on burning the image and also rinsing it out. I have done it a million times and watched countless videos but still having issues.
> 
> 
> QUESTIONS:
> ...


Star Date Dec 30 2018. 

After seeing the same problems over and over, I am commenting
for the benefit of future newbies.....anywhere in the universe.

Get a better light source!!!
Just because someone on youtube used a floodlight from
home depot, doesn't mean you should. If you do, consider removing
the glass shield, as others have mentioned, there is a good chance
it has UV blocking coatings.

I built my own exposure unit using 1000w metal-halide bulb, a
superior light source. I bought it from a greenhouse supply
store. That was 1994, I am still using it!!

A cheaper 400w would also work, but need longer exposure times.

Basically a table with glass top, a sheet metal reflector, a piece
of black neoprene and a weight piece of plywood.

I made a 3 point stop system so the screens go in the same place
every time. I taped reg marks to line up the film on the glass
same place every time.

I typically use sharp side of scoop coater, 2 coats shirt side, 1 coat
squeegee side. Dry horizontal, shirt side down.

Films have reg marks printed on them, tape to glass and place
screen, add foam inside screen and place the weighted plywood.

For a 'shutter' I have a piece of cardboard covering the sheet 
metal reflector. Pull it off to expose , put it back to end exposure.

I had planned on making an actual vacuum set up but never got
around to it.

I have done 1000's of screens, including process and simprocess halftones.

Regardless of how you expose, do a wedge step type test for your set
up. I used the sun for my first year!! Then winter came.....

I started with Diazo, but went to chromatech PL and never looked back. 

Photopolymers need no mixing (do stir for each use} expose fast
and have long shelf life, at least a year in cool conditions.

Feel free to respond and ask questions now or 10 years from now.

I was newbie back then, and am a new neewbie now as I just 
bought my first used auto.

The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask

Cheers


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## ics2017 (Mar 31, 2019)

I’d suggest following the instructions on your emulsion as a place to start. You can over expose. The consequences of over exposure vary based on the image. High detailed and cmyk process printing will suffer more than bold blocky spot color prints. The beat way to take control over the exposure process is get and exposure calculator and use it fine tune your process.
It’s a little piece of film that you put under the screen with your image your exposing, after you expose and wash out the image, it will tell how change your exposure time based on what washes out of the screen where you left the exposure calculator. It has different levels of darkness (black ink at different opacities) and will tell you to add or subtract time to your exposure length based on what level is left on the screen. I got mine from Ryonet


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