# can anyone explain?



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

so I'm using heat transfers and I've applied many. I just had a couple shirts that I made for myself get screwed up

I pressed them and they looked good. I washed and dried them like normal but when I saw the the image looked like wrinkled skin and I could peel it off!

The temp is correct as is the time pressed. I'm wondering perhaps I didn't press the shirt first to take out moisture? Could that be it? Or do the transfers need to stored a certain way?

Any help would be great!

Mikey


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Are you using plastisol or inkjet transfers?


----------



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

plastisol transfer


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Is it white ink, by chance? I have had some do exactly what you are describing ... buckling and peeling after washing/drying. I tried higher heat, lower heat, higher dwell time, lower dwell time but nothing worked.

How old are these transfers?


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

p.s. Pre-pressing to get the moisture out didn't work, either.


----------



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

these transfers are about a month old if that and the colours were either brown or navy

:s

Rather confusing....


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Is it white ink, by chance? I have had some do exactly what you are describing ... buckling and peeling after washing/drying. I tried higher heat, lower heat, higher dwell time, lower dwell time but nothing worked.
> 
> How old are these transfers?


Hey Rhonda... 

Where were the transfers from? 

I had wrinkling after a wash like you guys describe, but it was with opaque inkjet heat transfer papers (Ironall Dk) and it turned out the shirt had additional shrinkage, but that doesn't sound like what's up here.... so I am wondering where the plastisols came from that you used. Thanks.


----------



## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hey Rhonda...
> 
> Where were the transfers from?
> 
> I had wrinkling after a wash like you guys describe, but it was with opaque inkjet heat transfer papers (Ironall Dk) and it turned out the shirt had additional shrinkage, but that doesn't sound like what's up here.... so I am wondering where the plastisols came from that you used. Thanks.


Yes, I would be curious where they came from also. I have seen this problem a couple of times but was not able to find out what caused it.


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

And it was plastisols, as well, Rick?


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hey Rhonda...
> 
> Where were the transfers from?
> 
> I had wrinkling after a wash like you guys describe, but it was with opaque inkjet heat transfer papers (Ironall Dk) and it turned out the shirt had additional shrinkage, but that doesn't sound like what's up here.... so I am wondering where the plastisols came from that you used. Thanks.


Ummm ... well, now that they are out of business I guess I can say that they were from Boo Z Warehouse and they were horrible from the get-go. This is white ink I'm talking about. I got a brown plastisol transfer from them and they weren't great – but at least it didn't peel after washing.


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

And I've also heard that white plastisol transfers have a shelf life of only a year ... so that's why I was asking him if they were white.


----------



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

hi guys

My transfers were from Versatrans and after I called them they said that it could have been that my press wasn't as hot as it read plus perhaps not enough pressure...

I adjusted both and so far so good


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Oh, I've heard people talk about Boo Z, maybe that is why they are out of biz now. I hadn't heard about the white ink having a shelf life, so thanks for that. 

I know you use JPSS, but do you use JPSS or plastisols for your designs, or both? If you use the plastisols, too, where do you get them?


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

withindustries said:


> hi guys
> 
> My transfers were from Versatrans and after I called them they said that it could have been that my press wasn't as hot as it read plus perhaps not enough pressure...
> 
> I adjusted both and so far so good


 
That's good news, Mike, and thanks for the update. Do you think you'll ever check the temp on your press to see what it is running at? Do you know how to do that?


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Glad you figured it out, Mikey. I always press at a higher temp than what the directions say.



Girlzndollz said:


> I know you use JPSS, but do you use JPSS or plastisols for your designs, or both? If you use the plastisols, too, where do you get them?


 At this point some are plastisol and some are inkjet, but I'm trying to move over to all plastisol. I use F&M mostly, but I have also used First Edition in the past.

Right now I'm out of JPSS and trying to decide if I should buy more or not.


----------



## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> And it was plastisols, as well, Rick?


They sure were Kelly, I wish I knew what caused it to happen


----------



## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> That's good news, Mike, and thanks for the update. Do you think you'll ever check the temp on your press to see what it is running at? Do you know how to do that?


Thats excellent news ... Also Kelly, when I saw this same thing happen it was not with garments I personally had done. But was shaken about plastisols when I saw the result ... not so shaken anymore LOL


----------



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

no I don't know how to tell the actual temp... Do u?

And don't worry about plastisols... To me they r a god send! I love them and Versatrans does a great job at customer service too so that helps


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Rick, yeah, I usually hear awesome things about plastisols. I bet it was scary because they are supposed to be so great. That kind of wrinkling you may understand happening with a dark ht paper on a shirt that is not preshrunk, or one that is 100 cotton that is preshrunk, but had a little left to go. Do you have a plastisol that you like to use?


Hey Mike,
There are two ways. The most recommended way is to buy one of those non-contact IR guns from Harbor Freight. But, I hear depending on the surface of the press, that may not work. There are heat tape strips that test the temp. The guns cost about $30, and the heat tapes are a one time use, but supposedly work for all presses and are more accurate. (??) That's the word on the street. I think I saved one of the threads as a fav, hang on, let me look....

Yea, I saved it. Mark/DAGuide always has this info and it always escapes me, so glad I finally grabbed one of these posts. 

This thread is actually about the info I posted above, so now you can read it as it happened, here you go:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t57393.html#post340801


----------



## withindustries (Aug 2, 2007)

awesome... Thx


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Glad you figured it out, Mikey. I always press at a higher temp than what the directions say.
> 
> 
> At this point some are plastisol and some are inkjet, but I'm trying to move over to all plastisol. I use F&M mostly, but I have also used First Edition in the past.
> ...


 
Thanks, Rhonda. If you do go for more JPSS, tshirtsupplies.com is giving another 5% off their prices for signing up an account... and their prices already rock!


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

You're welcome, Mike.


----------



## Hwy101 (Sep 12, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Rick, yeah, I usually hear awesome things about plastisols. I bet it was scary because they are supposed to be so great. That kind of wrinkling you may understand happening with a dark ht paper on a shirt that is not preshrunk, or one that is 100 cotton that is preshrunk, but had a little left to go. Do you have a plastisol that you like to use?
> 
> 
> Hey Mike,
> ...



*Not all heat guns are created equal. As with anything, you get what you pay for. The harbor freight guns are ok but not particularly accurate.
I found out the hard way. I bought the harbor gun that was junk - off by 49 degrees!
I proceeded directly to Sears and bought the mid level FLUKE Model 561 IR gun. It measures heat from Aluminum, steel, liquid, porcelain, ceramic and teflon. Once my heat press was calibrated I no longer had any problem related to incorrect temperature applications. 
The Fluke is much more than the cheapies, but worth it in the long run.*


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thanks, Rhonda. If you do go for more JPSS, tshirtsupplies.com is giving another 5% off their prices for signing up an account... and their prices already rock!


Thanks! I have had them bookmarked for awhile now, but thanks for the heads up on the 5% off.



Hwy101 said:


> *The Fluke is much more than the cheapies, but worth it in the long run.*


*
*Why would anybody name their company (or product for that matter) "Fluke"? LOL* 
*


----------



## Flint54 (Oct 16, 2008)

Lowes, Home Depot and many stores of this type have an Electrical Department. Get a voltmeter but look for one on the shelf that has a temp probe/thermocouple included with it. These are very accurate & small additionally they should run around $20 US. Hope this helps.


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Thanks! I have had them bookmarked for awhile now, but thanks for the heads up on the 5% off.


That actually ends on October 24th... I didn't realize that is tomorrow...

I have to get my review of their site in, so I can be entered into the contest to win FREE JPSS... now what can beat that?? 





> Why would anybody name their company (or product for that matter) "Fluke"? LOL





> * *


LOL!



Thanks to both of the fellas for additional leads on finding other IR guns.


----------



## Gunslinger (Aug 3, 2007)

Hey Gang ... I am posting here, after spending a few days with new licensed transfers I wanted to add to our retail line-up. Pretty frustrating experience, as half of the transfers were originally from a company bought up by another (I wasn't aware of it) ... so, they were likely very old stock (or worse, a poorly run company). I could not get them to peel off (adjusting pressure, temp and time) cleanly ... all were hot peels of various styles (spot color, glitter, high definition, etc.).

After burning the back of my hand, I was ready to chew out the supplier. No, I won't state who it is here, or by any PM or e-mail ... I will deal with them and the issue of this particular stock, on my own. However, I did find a solution after some trial and error, if you run across older stock (which I have gathered can happen with any stock transfer supplier, so it can come up with any of the large stock transfer houses ... even ones "recommended"):

1. Keep the recommended time the same. (though, you might use less with the following adjustments) ... increasing the time has no effect.
2. Increase the pressure to heavy, heavy, heavy ... as far as you can go clamping it down.
3. Jack up the heat, baby ... as much as 75 or more degrees above the recommended. (the instructions I had were 375-400 ... I had to get it up to 475, before they peeled off nice)

It's real simple, if it doesn't peel off like butter in one smooth stroke ... it ain't hot enough. So, try increasing the heat press at 25 degree increments, until you find the sweet spot without scorching the garment (initial discoloration is normal for brights, and will fade back to normal after cooling) or burning the ink (colors dull). You'll get a lot of steam and stink from the plastisol off these old stock transfers, but at least you'll be able to salvage them.

I would have liked to have done some videos with regard to this, but the lighting down in the basement where I work won't do for video. I'd take pictures, but I don't want to disrespect the vendor (unless Rodney is willing to put a disclaimer). While I don't fault transfer vendors for selling old stock ... I would like to suggest that they check date and test (quarterly, semi-annually, annually, etc.) for shelf life, and adjust the supplied recommended instructions to clients.

Hope this helps ...


----------



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Thanks Michael. I have some older custom plastisol transfers that I didn't store properly (nobody to blame but myself) so I have to really crank up the heat to get them to work. I believe the instructions call for 275º but I have to press at 375º.


----------



## Gunslinger (Aug 3, 2007)

LOL, it was one of your posts that got me down the right path ... we _were_ going to return them all!

The only ones that are still giving me problems are 4 transfers with heavy white ink. Too hot, and the white ink crackles ... too little, and the other color ink won't come off cleanly. Testing these to find a sweet spot, is costing me time and money ... ARGH!!!


----------



## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thanks, Rhonda. If you do go for more JPSS, tshirtsupplies.com is giving another 5% off their prices for signing up an account... and their prices already rock!


Of course if someone was to compare pricing they may find better pricing someplace else.


----------



## garris (Nov 25, 2009)

Well I don't. How do you check the temp?


----------



## garris (Nov 25, 2009)

Gunslinger said:


> It's real simple, if it doesn't peel off like butter in one smooth stroke ... it ain't hot enough.


 Does storing transfers in a cold warehouse before applying affect the transfer? All of a sudden, I'm having problems and I'm wondering if it is because of the sudden cold weather. (My t-shirt operation along with the supplies are in an unheated warehouse.)

Dale


----------



## jamerican352005 (Nov 1, 2008)

With plastisol heat transfers pressure and temp is the key. If you are going to do alot of business with a plastisol supplier we highly suggest getting an air press. An air press will ensure that you have at least 60psi that is a MUST with transfers.

Weather is a factor as well! Make sure to keep your transfers at room temp and in bags to keep from scratching the image on the prints. If you store transfers properly you can use any color EXCEPT white for months to come. A previous person said they had heard white is only good for a year. This is true   Sometimes you can get white to print after a year but most of the time if you have a set of white prints that have been on the shelf for awhile they may not work. I asked our ink supplier why this is so and he told me because the white ink doesn't have all the added ingredients like the color ink.

Your prints should stay on after you wash them. It is always a good idea to do exactly what you did and contact the company that made your prints.  You will find in this industry alot of companies will bend over backwards to keep you happy. Not to mention they appreicate the negative feedback as well as the positive because it helps them keep their company up to par! So kudos for you for contacting the company and working out the problem!!


----------



## seaygraphics (Jan 8, 2010)

queerrep said:


> Ummm ... well, now that they are out of business I guess I can say that they were from Boo Z Warehouse and they were horrible from the get-go. This is white ink I'm talking about. I got a brown plastisol transfer from them and they weren't great – but at least it didn't peel after washing.


I can tell you without a doubt exactly what the problem was with those prints. Boo Z buys their inks from One Stroke Inks, and they have a ink series 382 which is supposed to be a high opaque version of their 380 ink series, we ran into this problem a few years ago when they changed owners. They are adding "blow" which is a puff agent to the ink to try to give it enhanced opacity, but the problem is when you add a puff agent to the ink and don't have a adhesive on the back side of the print to help it adhere to the shirt it just repels right off the shirt when you wash it. Puff inks MUST have adhesive to hold them to the shirts. They need to stop marketing that 382 series, or do the proper thing and add more pigment instead of the puff agent.


----------

