# Blending paint (fading)



## cposch (Apr 20, 2006)

Is there a previous thread on how to do this?

Or, could someone help explain to me how to do this ..thank you!

Basically, I want to do an image and have red ..fade into orange.. and orange fade into yellow... 

I've seen this done, but just not exactly sure how to do it. I am going to be using acrylics.

THANK YOU


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

I think it would be done using halftones.


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

what software are you using?

* CorelDRAW*
Create your object. Open the Fountain Fill Dialog (F11) & Choose Custom Click in the middle of the blend to add a new color point. Add your color and bam

If using PMS spot colors it will separate in the advanced options for you.


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## cposch (Apr 20, 2006)

Thanks guys.
Yes, I am using halftones in my original image i will burn onto the screen.

However, when I silkscreen the paint, I want it to fade...like this:

http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger/5245/1457/1600/163866/DECblendedplastisolb.png


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

create the art like I posted above. essentially the seps/films will look like this.

Your example looks to be only a 2 color red to yellow or a more Red Orange to yellow. The colors mix getting the orange in the middle


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## cposch (Apr 20, 2006)

Ahhhhhh.... yes. THANK you.

I also took a screenprinting class last year and i saw some of the people taking their paint, on the screen, and using only one screen... the mixed/blended the paint to create this same effect without using two screens. It was like they put the two separate colored paints down on the screen, and then squiguied back and forth to create the blended effect.

Are you familiar with how they did this? Its escaping my memory somewhat.. Thanks.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

It's called a split fountain (and probably lots of other things, but that's one I've heard it referred to as). It's not hard to do, but depending on the length of your print run you might not be getting quite the effect you want after a while.

You just place the two colours on the screen and print as per normal - they blend together more or less automatically. It works well for things like sunsets (that don't need to be perfectly consistent), but not very well for even gradients (if you want a perfect gradient on lettering for example).


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

we do this for a coupel of clients trying to save money.
Depending on how much control over the belnd you want Its best to use a spoon and use a small amount of ink. Engouh to do a samll number of shirts. after a couple of shirts. Possible a doz or so the inks start getting muddy. replacing the dirty ink is easier as you only used small amounts.

Priting on an Automatic is easier as the flood bars and squeegees helpt o keep the ink in the same place.

We actually have one client that we blend 8 colors - Rainbow Pride


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## cposch (Apr 20, 2006)

sweet guys... thanks!
i am just doing a run of about 40 shirts.. its fine.. im a small shop and these are all my own clothes that i make so its all good.. 

thanks again


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

Glad we could help  Post a pic of your shirt when printed. Would love to check it out


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## brainswho (Mar 31, 2008)

I love printing blends... did two this week. You can do them with as many colors as you like. Like others have said, you probably can't get it to last long, but if you are careful and use small amounts of each color at a time(spoons, mentioned above, are perfect), you can easily do 100 shirts without the colors getting too muddy. Takes an even stroke though, especially when flooding. 

However, if you don't care how cleanly your inks blend, you can pretty much go crazy. Just pay attention to how your colors will mix, unless you like brown. Feel free to change the colors you are blending even while you're printing. I guess it would probably be smart to stick with the same brand of ink the whole time, I'm not sure how compatible the different brands are. I've done this kind of blend with Wilflex plastisol and Nazdar waterbase (seperately) and they both work great.


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## amp267 (Oct 11, 2006)

Fluid said:


> create the art like I posted above. essentially the seps/films will look like this.
> 
> Your example looks to be only a 2 color red to yellow or a more Red Orange to yellow. The colors mix getting the orange in the middle


IM TRYING TO ACHIEVE THIS LOOK WITH BLACK FADED TO WHITE. I HAVE FASTRIP. WHAT SETTING WOULD YOU RECOMEND DPI 45, 55, 65. OR DIFFERENT. WHAT MESH COUNT ON SCREEN SHOULD I USE. I WILL BE PRINTING A WHITE UNDERBASE.I WANT THE BLEND AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE, WITHOUT SHOWING TO MANY HALFTONE DOTS. ITS A MANUAL PRESS. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED.


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Hey sorry to revive this old thread about split fountain, but I figured it might be better than starting a new one about the same topic since maybe people in this thread have gained a lot of experience over the years trying this method. Basically after trying this on a couple different designs I have to ask how do you avoid the hardline between the colors and get more of a blend? When I have done it I get this "hard line" between the colors rather than an actual blend. I am using Matsui water based RC colors. Should I maybe overlap the inks more when I am putting them on the screen before flooding? Also, is it possible to get "squiggly" lines of different colors over another color by drizzling ink directly on the design after laying down a color and then just printing? I guess I can just go ahead and try it, but I figured I'd ask while waiting for more shirts to arrive. Thanks.


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## Bernzomatic (May 3, 2012)

InnerLoop said:


> Hey sorry to revive this old thread about split fountain, but I figured it might be better than starting a new one about the same topic since maybe people in this thread have gained a lot of experience over the years trying this method. Basically after trying this on a couple different designs I have to ask how do you avoid the hardline between the colors and get more of a blend? When I have done it I get this "hard line" between the colors rather than an actual blend. I am using Matsui water based RC colors. Should I maybe overlap the inks more when I am putting them on the screen before flooding? Also, is it possible to get "squiggly" lines of different colors over another color by drizzling ink directly on the design after laying down a color and then just printing? I guess I can just go ahead and try it, but I figured I'd ask while waiting for more shirts to arrive. Thanks.


I did a few mix prints with waterbased and noticed that the first print or 2 had more of a "hard line" and that it wasn't until a few more prints when the ink was able to mix a little more that it looked like more of a smooth transition


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Hey Bernzomatic, thanks for the reply. I noticed this too when I did a second print using this method. Unfortunately I'm usually only do single prints. The second print definitely came out more blended than the first with less of the hard line. I guess maybe what I can do if I am trying this method with only single prints is to first print on a few sheets of paper to get the ink blended first. Nrext time I try this method I will do that and see if it helps. Thanks again for the helpful reply.


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## Bernzomatic (May 3, 2012)

No problem! If you're only doing 1 print at a time usually, then yes I'd say it's probably a good idea to print a couple test prints on a test pellon or old t-shirt to get the fade nice and smooth before doing a final print.

Good luck!


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