# Questions that have arisen from my first heat transfer?? (pics included)



## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

I am printing my own designs and transferring those designs onto babies bibs.

Please find attached pictures of some that I made yesterday. I am overall pretty happy but have a few questions.

I made the image myself in Illustrator.

I printed onto JPSS paper using an Epson WF-2010 printer with pigment ink.

The bibs you see are 100% cotton, I have found that printing on a high quality print mode with plain paper selected as the media has given me the best results so far. I've tried playing around with other settings, and have tried printing onto 100% poly bibs as well but the quality on this bib was the poorest of all. I am till waiting for some 50/50 bibs to arrive so I can test on those.

Ok here's my first problem. Maybe it isn't a problem who knows... I don't own a heat press (yet). 

I am not sure if I need one but already I have seen it's hard trying to re-create the same finish each time by using just a home iron. It's impossible to tell how much pressure I am putting on each part of the design, and indeed it's impossible to tell if the iron is hot enough or even too hot!

My results have been good though, which leads me to believe possibly with more practice I could make this work with just an iron. I've made sure I have this set to cotton and press with heavy pressure for 30 seconds.

I pre-iron the bib to remove moisture and to make sure there are no wrinkles, I then use a Lint roll to remove any unwanted fibres/dirt. Once I peeled the backing off the transfer I stretch the bib in a few directions. I haven't yet tried placing some kraft paper over the image once the backing has been removed and then ironing again, but I will try this as I have heard it helps the transfer set into the fabric.

No matter how long I press the transfer for, whether I apply lots or little pressure. Whether I have set the image to print in high or normal mode. When I remove the backing from the transfer there it always some of the image/ink left on the backing???

I just want to know if this is normal? I mean the transfer looks great on the bib, but why so much residue left on the backing of the transfer?

Every video I've seen there is never anything left on the backing paper once removed?

Any feedback welcome?

Cheers.


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## RobertTSS (Dec 4, 2009)

These papers soak up a lot of ink thus you will have some residue. The transfers looks great thus it appears to be working as intended. What setting are you printing on? Card stock, photograph etc? 



matesdesign said:


> I am printing my own designs and transferring those designs onto babies bibs.
> 
> Please find attached pictures of some that I made yesterday. I am overall pretty happy but have a few questions.
> 
> ...


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

RobertTSS said:


> These papers soak up a lot of ink thus you will have some residue. The transfers looks great thus it appears to be working as intended. What setting are you printing on? Card stock, photograph etc?


Ok thanks that's very helpful to know that these papers soak up some of the ink. Just wanted someone in the know to tell me if it was to be expected or not. 

In regards to what settings I am printing on.

I've been playing around with all sorts to be honest. From high quality and photo paper to normal quality and plain paper. Plus a mix of both.

I think so far the ones that have come out best have been by setting the printer to high quality but selecting plain paper as the media. I'm sure I'll learn/find out more as I go along.


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

If you are only doing babies bibs have you thought about trying sublimation, the images may be more durable and production costs may be less.


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

Also with a heat press you may be able to produce 3-4 bibs at a time(depending on platen size) and you will be able to reproduce the same results for each bib.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> If you are only doing babies bibs have you thought about trying sublimation, the images may be more durable and production costs may be less.


I haven't thought about sublimation no. I don't even have any reasons why I haven't either.. I think I just came across heat transfers/pigment inks etc and decided that sounded like it would work for what I wanted to do. I did spend a lot of time however researching how much this would cost me to produce each bib. I think I've got it pretty cheap already, considering the smaller quantities I'm working with (about £1 per bib) so I would be surprised if I could get it much cheaper. Plus I can obviously fit multiple designs on a single sheet of JPSS paper. 

I think I'll stick with my current method for now as I would like to see how that goes but thank you for giving me food for thought


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> Also with a heat press you may be able to produce 3-4 bibs at a time(depending on platen size) and you will be able to reproduce the same results for each bib.


Yes this is what really attracts me. Being able to produce the same result each time is really important to me and I know I'm not going to be able to get that using just a home iron.


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## elcielo (Jan 20, 2012)

You're doing all right, Sean, and I like your designs. Keep on keepin' on.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

elcielo said:


> You're doing all right, Sean, and I like your designs. Keep on keepin' on.


Thank you. Just trying to knuckle down now and work on a handful of designs


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Made another design which I'm pretty happy with, melted chocolate  Tried one with a yellow gradient background but preferred the dripping chocolate text on it's own. Worth noting that I'm now getting a much fuller looking transfer now that I've changed the print settings, I have now set the paper to EPSON MATTE and the print quality to HIGH.

Really starting to encounter problems using just a home iron. I had been just pressing for 30 or so seconds but I recently noticed that JPSS say to press for 90 seconds if using a home iron? Seems quite a big jump..

I have ruined so many bibs though by using an iron as the image sometimes won't stay in place as I move the iron over the transfer, plus as the garment is so small it's hard to move the iron about without it hitting the edges of the bib. I've stepped up my search for a suitable heat press.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

OK so I picked up some Kraft paper from the Royal Mail online shop. 

Look what happened below???

I'm sure I must of done something wrong as the transfer has burnt onto the kraft paper and then peeled it off from the bib?

I ironed the garment to remove moisture etc. Placed the transfer face down and using heavy pressure heated with an iron for a good 30 odd seconds. I then peeled the backing off the transfer and stretched the garment a little (all good at this point). I then placed a bit of the kraft paper back over the image and pressed for a further 7 seconds or so, then as I took the kraft paper off I could tell it had burnt a bit and then it tore a lot of the transfer off from the bib?

This isn't quite the matte finish I was hoping to achieve by using this kraft paper to help set the image into the garment?


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

Kraft paper is OK if you are just knocking up a couple of images for yourself, if you are selling the products stick with branded papers, more expensive but by far superior results.

I think that a decent heat press and transfer paper will solve any problems.

A word of caution, try and steer clear of the cheap heat presses on ebay, try to find a decent branded s/h one rather than a new cheapie one.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> Kraft paper is OK if you are just knocking up a couple of images for yourself, if you are selling the products stick with branded papers, more expensive but by far superior results.
> 
> I think that a decent heat press and transfer paper will solve any problems.
> 
> A word of caution, try and steer clear of the cheap heat presses on ebay, try to find a decent branded s/h one rather than a new cheapie one.


I've been using Jet Pro Soft Stretch paper. I thought that was generally considered to be one of the best transfer papers?

I was using the kraft paper to help set the image into the garment after it had been pressed. I heard it leaves the image with a matte finish? If not, can you recommend what I should be re-pressing with?

Thanks for the heads up on the heat presses, I've been looking on ebay and almost jumped in and bought one... Going to hold out for a second hand branded one I think whether it's on ebay or elsewhere.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

matesdesign said:


> I've been using Jet Pro Soft Stretch paper. I thought that was generally considered to be one of the best transfer papers?
> 
> I was using the kraft paper to help set the image into the garment after it had been pressed. I heard it leaves the image with a matte finish? If not, can you recommend what I should be re-pressing with?
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the heat presses, I've been looking on ebay and almost jumped in and bought one... Going to hold out for a second hand branded one I think whether it's on ebay or elsewhere.


Use parchment paper. Get it from grocery store.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Lnfortun said:


> Use parchment paper. Get it from grocery store.


Thanks I'll pick some up.

Just to check. Should I put the parchment paper over the transfer during my main press? Or do I just put it over the transfer once the backing has been peeled off??

Or should I do both?

I'm off to check out a second hand (although advertised as brand new) PixMax heat press tonight


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

Use a teflon sheet, it will last for years.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> Use a teflon sheet, it will last for years.


Thank you. Teflon sheet leaves a shiny finish right? Ok so if I were to use a teflon sheet do I use this for the whole pressing process or just the re-press part??


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

matesdesign said:


> Thank you. Teflon sheet leaves a shiny finish right? Ok so if I were to use a teflon sheet do I use this for the whole pressing process or just the re-press part??


I use for both, [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57olbvZSUzU[/media]


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> I use for both, [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57olbvZSUzU[/media]


Thank you.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

matesdesign said:


> Thanks I'll pick some up.
> 
> Just to check. Should I put the parchment paper over the transfer during my main press? Or do I just put it over the transfer once the backing has been peeled off??
> 
> ...


Word of caution. Teflon will pickup faint of ink/polymer. It will transfer on the next shirt and ruin it. I had that problem so I quit using Teflon for repressing the image. You can use it for pressing to removing moisture and wrinkle or over the parchment when pressing the transfer or repressing the image covered with parchment. However it will reduce some of the heat applied to the transfer. I use parchment paper until it starts to scorch or picks up some ink/polymer.


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

Lnfortun said:


> Word of caution. Teflon will pickup faint of ink/polymer. It will transfer on the next shirt and ruin it. I had that problem so I quit using Teflon for repressing the image. You can use it for pressing to removing moisture and wrinkle or over the parchment when pressing the transfer or repressing the image covered with parchment. However it will reduce some of the heat applied to the transfer. I use parchment paper until it starts to scorch or picks up some ink/polymer.


If that was happening, sounds like your ink was not taking properly, once the ink is transferred no residual should come off, that means that there is a possibility of the transfer smudging or washing out when washed, plus if any ink does find its way onto the teflon sheet it will just wipe off as the ink molecules cannot bond with the teflon.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> If that was happening, sounds like your ink was not taking properly, once the ink is transferred no residual should come off, that means that there is a possibility of the transfer smudging or washing out when washed, plus if any ink does find its way onto the teflon sheet it will just wipe off as the ink molecules cannot bond with the teflon.


To be honest I think I've read so much about different types of paper, teflon, kraft, parchment, silicone... that now I've no idea what to do when it comes to properly heat pressing my designs 

One person says use this, another says use that, another says don't use either but I should use this.

I'm sure 99% of people just whack the garment down, set the temp and press, then they're done. Simple! 

Yet here I am worrying about the type of paper I should be covering my transfer with, should I be re-pressing with the same paper, or even now I'm thinking should I be using heat transfers at all! Maybe there is something better/simpler I should be using..

Anyway I've got a heat press now, I picked up a second hand (all be it new and unused) PixMax heat press last night, looks very industrial!  I look forward to trying it out, hope it's a big step up from a home iron!


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## diveuk (Aug 14, 2013)

matesdesign said:


> To be honest I think I've read so much about different types of paper, teflon, kraft, parchment, silicone... that now I've no idea what to do when it comes to properly heat pressing my designs
> 
> One person says use this, another says use that, another says don't use either but I should use this.
> 
> ...


All you problems will now disappear now you have a decent press, experiment with different papers/techniques, stick with what works for you.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

diveuk said:


> All you problems will now disappear now you have a decent press, experiment with different papers/techniques, stick with what works for you.


Yeah there's going to be a ton of testing/playing around I'm going to have to do to get my product to a point that I'm happy with. I guess that's half the fun as well!

I think I just want to be at the point where I know that all I have to do is set the press at 190 Celsius, press for 30 seconds, then re-press with whatever paper and be done. One less thing to think/worry about.

Then I can concentrate on my designs/new web site/buying stock etc....

Basically I want to run before I can walk!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

diveuk said:


> If that was happening, sounds like your ink was not taking properly, once the ink is transferred no residual should come off, that means that there is a possibility of the transfer smudging or washing out when washed, plus if any ink does find its way onto the teflon sheet it will just wipe off as the ink molecules cannot bond with the teflon.


I think I know all about the inks and outs of heat pressing heat transfer. I only been doing heat transfer since 1990. Believe me I have my share of testing, trial and error. Wasted some transfer and garments up to the point that I am happy of what works and what to avoid.

I know that ink/polymer can be wiped off. Why take a risk and do another extra step when you can just press with parchment covering the image peel it then move on.

Sometimes mistake happens and forgets to wipe the Teflon when one is in a pinch to get big order done in time for delivery.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Just a little update - I've had my heat press for 1 week now. It's GREAT!! What a difference it makes 

I've just been plugging away making designs, playing with the heat press, working out how best to take product pictures (LIGHT BOX/TENT ANYONE??) and working on my web site etc

A couple of things I've noticed, as the designs, and therefore the transfers I'm using are quite small. The paper actually starts to curl up under the heat of the platen whilst I'm trying to line it up on the bib. I guess this is a problem with using a clamshell heat press.

I would like some advice on re-pressing?

For the first few presses I did with my new press I just pressed at 190c for 30 seconds and pulled the backing off the transfer right away. Everything looked great.

However I've since picked up a small Teflon sheet, so for the last few presses I've been using this to cover my transfer, and then also use it to repress my transfer once the backing has been peeled off. I haven't noticed the glossy finish it's supposed to give, which is fine by me.

Couple of questions? How long after peeling the backing off the transfer should I wait before re-pressing? I've been doing it almost straight away, and for how long should I re-press?? Just looking to see what others are doing to see if I'm way off the mark or not. I've been re-pressing for about 5-7 seconds I guess. Although I did notice that one of my images had slightly ghosted onto the Teflon sheet?? Perhaps I pressed for to long. There was no loss of quality on the garment though (that I could notice).

Also, Teflon conducts some of the heat from the platen right? So should I increase the temp of the press to accomdate this loss of heat?

As always, thanks for the help.

Sean.


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

matesdesign said:


> Just a little update - I've had my heat press for 1 week now. It's GREAT!! What a difference it makes
> 
> I've just been plugging away making designs, playing with the heat press, working out how best to take product pictures (LIGHT BOX/TENT ANYONE??) and working on my web site etc
> 
> ...


Hi. 

As for the paper curling, I get the same problem so bought some heat tape and used a couple of small pieces to hold it in place whilst heat pressing 😀...this stuff:

http://bit.ly/1g9TcJw

As for re-pressing, I repress immediately after peeling the paper for about 5 seconds.

I don't use teflon, I use baking paper from Asda! I found the image sometimes transferred to the teflon so I use baking paper instead. Use it once or twice then chuck it away. Costs about £1 for 10 metres.

I did have a sheet of teflon, but ended up taping it onto my bottom platen with the heat tape I mentioned...helps items slide easily on and off. Don't think you need to up the temperature. If what you are doing is working, why change?

All the best mate...hope this helps 😉


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Teflon should keep the transfer from curling. Since you are covering the transfer when pressing the sheet should keep the transfer flat. Now that you are aware that ghosting happens make sure to wipe it clean before using it to repress the transfer. I still think you should use parchment paper just to be on the safe side.


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

Lnfortun said:


> Teflon should keep the transfer from curling. Since you are covering the transfer when pressing the sheet should keep the transfer flat. Now that you are aware that ghosting happens make sure to wipe it clean before using it to repress the transfer. I still think you should use parchment paper just to be on the safe side.


Good point about the teflon holding it in place. Problem I had was before I used to put the teflon on top of the transfer whilst on the heat press, whilst I was lining up and centralising the paper, the paper curled, and the paper was moving when I placed the teflon on top of it. The tape cured this problem.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

MAXDesign said:


> Hi.
> 
> As for the paper curling, I get the same problem so bought some heat tape and used a couple of small pieces to hold it in place whilst heat pressing 😀...this stuff:
> 
> ...


Think I will pick some of that tape up. 

Found the baking paper in asda?

http://http://groceries.asda.com/asda-webstore/landing/home.shtml#!product/910000045220

Seems like I'm doing it about right then, by repressing immediately after peeling for about 5 seconds 

And yeah, guess if it's working there's little point in adjusting the temperature. 

I do have another question though (surprise surprise!). 

What's the deal with ironing, or indeed just putting the bib in the heat press a day or so after the image has been transferred? I'm getting to the point where I want to take proper photos of my product. So I want the bib as flat and wrinkle/crease free as possible. Is it ok to give it a quick 5 second burst under the heat press to iron it??? I don't want to ruin the image/transfer by doing this.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Lnfortun said:


> Teflon should keep the transfer from curling. Since you are covering the transfer when pressing the sheet should keep the transfer flat. Now that you are aware that ghosting happens make sure to wipe it clean before using it to repress the transfer. I still think you should use parchment paper just to be on the safe side.


Is parchment the same as Kraft paper? I tried kraft paper but it burnt and my image peeled away from the bib and some of it ended up sticking to the kraft paper  

This result has made me not really want to use kraft paper again to be honest, although I must of been using it wrong previously to get such a poor result!

Do you use parchment paper for both the main press and the re-press then??

Cheers,

Sean.


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

Can't see there being a problem repressing the next day...just make sure you cover the design with baking paper. This is what I use:









I only use it after pressing the design to set the image. 

Are you using a teflon pillow to raise the area you're pressing onto?


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

MAXDesign said:


> Can't see there being a problem repressing the next day...just make sure you cover the design with baking paper. This is what I use:
> 
> View attachment 77881
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pic, I'll grab some tomorrow 

I'll try only using this baking paper for the repress part. 

On the bottom plate of the press there is a squashy, hard rubbery feeling red foam thing? About half an inch thick. That's what I place all my bibs on, that might be the Teflon pillow? Doesn't feel like Teflon though, bibs don't slip and slide on it.


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

matesdesign said:


> Thanks for the pic, I'll grab some tomorrow
> 
> I'll try only using this baking paper for the repress part.
> 
> On the bottom plate of the press there is a squashy, hard rubbery feeling red foam thing? About half an inch thick. That's what I place all my bibs on, that might be the Teflon pillow? Doesn't feel like Teflon though, bibs don't slip and slide on it.


A teflon pillow is a separate teflon coated pillow which is slipped inside the garment to raise the height so the printed area is raised above any seams on the garment. Maybe you don't need to do this with your bibs?... 

Looking at your earlier posts, did you ever buy any refillable pigment cartridges?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

matesdesign said:


> Is parchment the same as Kraft paper? I tried kraft paper but it burnt and my image peeled away from the bib and some of it ended up sticking to the kraft paper
> 
> This result has made me not really want to use kraft paper again to be honest, although I must of been using it wrong previously to get such a poor result!
> 
> ...


Kraft paper is not the same as parchment paper. Kraft paper will leave residue as you have found out already. Parchment paper is silicon imptegnated paper that is used for baking liner so that the food does not stick on the pan. It does not leave residue. It will keep the ink/polymer from sticking to it. Eventulally the silicon coating will burn off and pick up ink/polymer. I use it until it starts to scorch or picking up ink/polymer. 

I use teflon to cover the shirt when prepressing to remove wrinkle and moisture for fabric that is senstive to scorching. But never used it to repress the image after I ruined shirts due ghostig. You can use teflon over parchment paper during repress. Parchment paper is available in bakery supply or grocery store.

Teflon came about when vinyl transfer was at its infancy. During the 90's vinyl transfer was sold percut without carrier. Teflon sheet was used to cover the precut vinyl to prevent the vinyl transfer from sticking on the upper platen. The carrier of the modern vinyl serves that purpose. 

The precut vinyl were expensive. When the vinyl with carrier became available I purchased two vinyl cutters and gave all the precut vinyl that was $500.00 to my niece who was just starting out. Those were time consuming to use. You have to lay each piece and align on the shirt. The parts that are not used will be sitting around collecting dust, the adhesive will dry out and end up in the trash can. 

Teflon is also used for sublimation transfer to prevent the shirt from scorching because sublimation transfer requies very high temp and longer pressing time than polymer transfer.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

matesdesign said:


> Thanks for the pic, I'll grab some tomorrow
> 
> I'll try only using this baking paper for the repress part.
> 
> On the bottom plate of the press there is a squashy, hard rubbery feeling red foam thing? About half an inch thick. That's what I place all my bibs on, that might be the Teflon pillow? Doesn't feel like Teflon though, bibs don't slip and slide on it.


You need to cover the bottom platen with teflon sheet to prevent it from staining or scorching. Or stain the bib from the rubber when it gets soiled. There is a sepcial teflon jacket for that purpose. I just lay a Teflon sheet over it.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

MAXDesign said:


> A teflon pillow is a separate teflon coated pillow which is slipped inside the garment to raise the height so the printed area is raised above any seams on the garment. Maybe you don't need to do this with your bibs?...
> 
> Looking at your earlier posts, did you ever buy any refillable pigment cartridges?


Just googled teflon pillows. They seem to be used for putting inside shirts and t-shirts etc to raise an area. My bibs are just one piece, well, actually they're two sheets of cotton sewn together. But there's nowhere for me to insert anything like a teflon pillow. Unless I place it underneath the bib to raise it up? The bib does have seams around the outside but they're fairly flat and lightweight, not sure they're obtrusive enough to affect the pressure being applied to the bib. 

Regarding the pigment ink I bought XL replacement compatible pigment ink cartridges. I forget the name of the company I bought them from (it's in my other thread) they were very helpful, English based company. Chucked in a free XL pigment black cartridge to. I haven't used them yet though as the inks that came with the printer are still going strong.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Lnfortun said:


> You need to cover the bottom platen with teflon sheet to prevent it from staining or scorching. Or stain the bib from the rubber when it gets soiled. There is a sepcial teflon jacket for that purpose. I just lay a Teflon sheet over it.


Thanks. I think I'll use the teflon sheet I have then to cover the bottom plate as I can't see myself using it anymore for anything to do with the top plate. 

I'm going to pick up some baking paper today and will try using that instead to cover my transfers when pressing. 

Do you use parchment paper (baking paper) to cover the transfer during both the main press and the repress then?


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

matesdesign said:


> Thanks. I think I'll use the teflon sheet I have then to cover the bottom plate as I can't see myself using it anymore for anything to do with the top plate.
> 
> I'm going to pick up some baking paper today and will try using that instead to cover my transfers when pressing.
> 
> Do you use parchment paper (baking paper) to cover the transfer during both the main press and the repress then?


I only use the baking paper during the repress. I don't lay anything on top of the transfer on the main press, but I don't suppose it would hurt to do so. Might try using it on the first press on my next design as the heat tape I mentioned can be a little bit tough to remove after pressing...using the baking paper may help this?...good luck. Keep us posted on your results


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

matesdesign said:


> Thanks. I think I'll use the teflon sheet I have then to cover the bottom plate as I can't see myself using it anymore for anything to do with the top plate.
> 
> I'm going to pick up some baking paper today and will try using that instead to cover my transfers when pressing.
> 
> Do you use parchment paper (baking paper) to cover the transfer during both the main press and the repress then?


I use Teflon over the transfer if it is curling up or the fabric is sensitive to scorching. The parchment paper is too light to keep the transfer lay flat. The parchment will curl up also at the start maybe 2 or 3 times due to its shape from the roll then it will stay flat.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

MAXDesign said:


> I only use the baking paper during the repress. I don't lay anything on top of the transfer on the main press, but I don't suppose it would hurt to do so. Might try using it on the first press on my next design as the heat tape I mentioned can be a little bit tough to remove after pressing...using the baking paper may help this?...good luck. Keep us posted on your results


I use very narrow Teflon tape sometimes. It is very easy to remove and reusable. It is available from Stalhs.

This UK Stalhs vendor might carry it: The Heat Press, Textile Vinyls and Heat Transfer Experts - Target Transfers


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Here is the link in UK: http://www.targettransfers.com/d/AC10/General-Accessories


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## zbchildsheart (Jan 29, 2014)

Agree with Lnfortun, parchment paper would be best. Use it and teflon sheet all the time. Gives a really smooth finish.


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## ryanmontgomery (Mar 7, 2014)

Can I be a cheeky sod and ask where you are getting your blank bibs please??


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Been a while since I've posted in here. It's been a bit of a slog, but also a lot of fun to, and now our web site/online store is up and running and I'm starting to pull together a decent little range of products 

Since I picked up my heat press it cleared up pretty much any issues I was having with the heat transfer process.

Not sure if I'm allowed to post a link to my site so if not, let me know and I'll pull it from here. Not sure people will mind though considering I started off by using a home iron and a some of the cheapest heat transfer paper around! And now look at me  www.gagabibs.com


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

Really liking your website. Nice one 👍. Been watching your progress from the start and am impressed with where you've got to. Did notice a TINY spelling mistake on your website..."Using bright colours and funky, funny designs, we make baby bibs that are very unique and a whole lot of fun to!"...to should read "too". Just a quick question, are you putting anything under your bibs to print the designs onto to avoid the seams getting in the way?...also, do you have to cut the edges of the camera and gold chain designs to get them close to the seams?...once again, congrats!...


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

MAXDesign said:


> Really liking your website. Nice one 👍. Been watching your progress from the start and am impressed with where you've got to. Did notice a TINY spelling mistake on your website..."Using bright colours and funky, funny designs, we make baby bibs that are very unique and a whole lot of fun to!"...to should read "too". Just a quick question, are you putting anything under your bibs to print the designs onto to avoid the seams getting in the way?...also, do you have to cut the edges of the camera and gold chain designs to get them close to the seams?...once again, congrats!...


Thank you. I appreciate the positive feedback, especially from anyone here as this is where I first came for help when it was all just an idea I had. Thanks for spotting the mistake, I've corrected it 

I still have a few idea's for the site, and am constantly making new designs, but it's taking me quite a lot of time/work to get it to this stage. So I'm pretty happy with that, especially considering I work a full time job as well!

Regarding putting anything under the bib. I only put a Teflon sheet under the bib, although this obviously doesn't raise the bib up as it's wafer thin. I just use it as it makes sliding the bibs in and out a lot easier and I'm less likely to burn my knuckles on the top plate. The seams are pretty flat to be honest, I haven't had any problems pressing this way.

And yes, I have to cut the edges of the designs like the camera and the chain. I line them up pretty well in Illustrator first using an actual sized template of a bib I've made. Then just print, cut out, and press!


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## roboneill02 (Apr 16, 2014)

It is nice to know that you are making unique baby bibs. At the baby items industry many people or even just the mothers out there are looking forward of having a baby bibs with unique styles and designs. Can I ask you something and I hope you won't mind. What if there are mothers that would like to customize their baby bibs, will you let them?


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

roboneill02 said:


> It is nice to know that you are making unique baby bibs. At the baby items industry many people or even just the mothers out there are looking forward of having a baby bibs with unique styles and designs. Can I ask you something and I hope you won't mind. What if there are mothers that would like to customize their baby bibs, will you let them?


There's an option on the web site to 'personalise' your own bib. Anything from uploading completely your own design/text to bibs that are already pre-made but you can just add your own baby name. It's a bit basic but it does work.


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## roboneill02 (Apr 16, 2014)

Oh that's great! Thank you.


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## matesdesign (Feb 5, 2014)

Wow I started this thread almost 2 years ago, interesting reading back over my old posts. I feel like a heat transfer/heat pressing veteran now! I'm still making baby bibs and things are going really well with the web site and our Etsy store.

In fact apart from the plotter that I've just added to my equipment I've actually been using the same printer and press as when I started a couple of year ago.

Think I'll have a read through the forum and see what's new


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## Radiation72 (Jun 23, 2015)

matesdesign said:


> Wow I started this thread almost 2 years ago, interesting reading back over my old posts. I feel like a heat transfer/heat pressing veteran now! I'm still making baby bibs and things are going really well with the web site and our Etsy store.
> 
> In fact apart from the plotter that I've just added to my equipment I've actually been using the same printer and press as when I started a couple of year ago.
> 
> Think I'll have a read through the forum and see what's new


Good to read that you're still plugging away. Can I ask what ink your using with your printer? if it's a CISS, where did you get it from, are you using a color profile and what software are you using to print?


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