# How do I remove plastisol inks from screen?



## staplethumb

I have been printing with acrylic ink for posters for a few months now, and just received my order of plastisol inks to do some t-shirts! Now I am realizing that plastisol doesn't just clean up with water. I want to be using one screen for multiple stencils (with multiple colors), and therefore would like to clean out all ink between colors (without damaging the stencil). How do I clean up plastisol ink out of my screen? I have a power washer, and am using black, white, and gold, triangle plastisol inks. -Thanks for any help.


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## Reddawgs

I use Citra Paste just spray it on the screen wipe down with a shop rag and spray with water and all the ink is gone but the image is still there.

Greg


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## Steelheader100

I use Chemical Consultants Inc. (CCI) screen wash if I'm cleaning on press for an ink change. Spray on and wipe with rag. If I'm going to have the screen in the washout booth I use Easiway systems plastisolv 820. Spray it on scrub and rinse with water.


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## tman07

Fran Mar has soybean based cleaners, and they are great.

I would say you could simply use paint thinner, but someone might get on me for not being environmentally correct.


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## adawg2252

Ulano also makes a chemical called Citrus Screen Opener. Its made so you can quickly wipe out ink for a color change with no damage to the stencil (especially emulsions that aren't solvent resistant). Smell isn't that bad either. 

I've used it as an ink wash and a color change/screen wash. Works great.


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## kpargoiip4

tman07 said:


> Fran Mar has soybean based cleaners, and they are great.
> 
> I would say you could simply use paint thinner, but someone might get on me for not being environmentally correct.


I use paint thinner, with special plastisol cleaners will the ink come off "easier" or "not as easy"? I will buy a hybrid car before I make my life harder with more difficult plastisol cleanup


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## caelkuhlman

I'm new to this. The soy based plastisol ink remover I was given sure seems a lot like vegetable oil to me. Has anyone ever just tried that?


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## jeffie

Hey we use rinowash 210 dip scrubee scrub pressurewash...$32/gal 100ish screens/gal. most of my reasurash into this shows that screenwash ia proplene gycol & ether...want to try and make my own as we use 30-40 gal/year ...proplene gycol is the envrinomentaly frendly car antifreese...cant seem to find a source for ether..anyone else try to make their own...let me know ...jeff


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## tpitman

Depending on your emulsion, if you use paint thinner, you may very well lock in the emulsion to the mesh. Many of the pure photopolymers do not like to be cleaned up with hot solvents like paint thinner, and in fact I don't use screen wash from Sunrise because while the emulsion will clean out, it comes off all gummy instead of breaking down and washing away. I use Easisolv 820 for color changes or screen cleanup before it goes to the washout room. The Franmar chemicals work well also, and while they have a soy base, there is other stuff in there, so I would be surprised if straight vegetable oil would clean the ink out of a screen (although it probably wouldn't hurt to try). Generally speaking, the products made specifically for screenprinting work the best, and in the long haul, are the most economical. Cleanup with some mineral spirits you have sitting around in a can will get the job done quickly, but if the emulsion becomes locked in the replacement cost of the screen will make it "somewhat" more expensive.


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## FoyerClothing

we use goo gone, because it can easily be bought at any home store, which is great because we always seem to run out of supplies on the weekends


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## maneverfix

simply use KEROSIn, it is cheap and best





staplethumb said:


> I have been printing with acrylic ink for posters for a few months now, and just received my order of plastisol inks to do some t-shirts! Now I am realizing that plastisol doesn't just clean up with water. I want to be using one screen for multiple stencils (with multiple colors), and therefore would like to clean out all ink between colors (without damaging the stencil). How do I clean up plastisol ink out of my screen? I have a power washer, and am using black, white, and gold, triangle plastisol inks. -Thanks for any help.


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## mickheike

Use turpentine.


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## jmlampert23

i use easiways 820 press wash.


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## buy4now1

FoyerClothing said:


> we use goo gone, because it can easily be bought at any home store, which is great because we always seem to run out of supplies on the weekends


 when you use goo gone, does it spray on and wipe off ? does it affect the emulsion?


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## jmlampert23

i would be careful. even though it might now have an immidiate effect on the mesh of your screens goo gone will probably break it down. i would try to stick with the industry designed cleaners such as the easiway 820 or even use paint thinner.


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## greymatterdesign

I have the same problem too, does anybody know where to buy kerosene cleaner or turpentine? 
The plastisol ink I got is from silkscreeningsupply.com, and their ink remover need to work with spot cleaning gun >''<.(should have do more research before i bought the ink). is there any remover can work along? 

btw, the "water based ink" i got from them, can't be washed off just by water, need some sort of cleaner too.. so check twice before you place the order with them.....


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## drunkswithapress

I have to throw in my opinion... I use plastisol ink, mainly Union Ink. I also use Ulano QTX emulsion and Mineral Spirits to clean the ink off, and bleach to reclaim the screens. When i bought my first press it came with mineral spirits, i've used it ever since with out a problem. Cleaning ink off of a screen is a pain in the *** anyway. I've read that if you let the reclaimer/mineral spirits/ whatever you use DRY on the screen then there is a chance that it will lock the emulsion. Your power washer show help muscle it out. I've had some old screens with dried ink/emulsion and took them to the car wash with the advice i got from here, and they cleaned out pretty nice... I'm a novice but i wanted to share my input. hope this helps.


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## screenman53

since 1993 I've used and recommended ICC Chemicals, Cincinnati, OH. None better product, no problems with compatability or enviroment. If you are serious about your business and quality, they will help you through the whole process. I have recommended them countless times and everyone was satisfied.
Their phone 1-800-543-2075


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## Cumblidge

I see the answer as kerosene, paint thinner, turpentine,and goo gone to name a few. Has anyone used these chemicals long term and was the experience positive. I don't like being tied to one company for a chemical I can buy at Menards or somewhere else local.


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## screenman53

Yes you can go cheap. I used Mineral spirits (napatha) back in the '70's & early 80's. I also used acetone to get out the ghost images. You can get these at Wal-Mart. Use a hand spray bottle for the Mineral Spirits. Poke a small hole in the quart acetone can top to squirt it on two rags then you rub from both sides on the image.

But the hassel of scrubbing with paper towels and having acetone burn your hands was just not worth it.
If you are a hobbyist, this will work. You must get all the oil residue off the screen for the emulsion to stick. A degreaser (non- sudsing soap) must be used to prep the screen for coating. Providing emulsion is what you use for screen making

ICC will come to your shop and show you procedures and products to make your life easier. You are not obligated to continue to purchase from them if you don't want to. You speak of "obligation" like there would be a contract. It is not that way. ICC has been around for 20+ years and I don't see them going anywhere.

I checked your supply company and I found this site for your cleaning supplies. since you trust them for your inks, go with their cleaners.
Enviro Green Chemical Kit (QTS)

Hope this helps


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## BroJames

Cumblidge said:


> I see the answer as kerosene, paint thinner, turpentine,and goo gone to name a few. Has anyone used these chemicals long term and was the experience positive. I don't like being tied to one company for a chemical I can buy at Menards or somewhere else local.


I have not tried plastisol yet but every commercial printer here seems to use kerosene which is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to remove plastisol ink from screens. I believe I have read somewhere (earlier), from 2 separate sources(one of which is right here at http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t23439.html), that vegetable oil can be used to clean screens from plastisol ink. Does anybody have more information on this?


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## nativeera

just use paint thinner - mineral spirits.. and no you won't lock your emulsion into the screen either... its quick and easy


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## 73eyes

Ignoring environmental consequences, mineral spirits and turpentine, etc.. can be pretty nasty to inhale over time. I'm using the soy based Franmar bean-e-doo and strip-e-doo cleaners from one stop apparel. They seem to be about the same cost as other screenprinting-specific chemicals I've purchased in the past, and work as good if not better.


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## BroJames

73eyes said:


> Ignoring environmental consequences, mineral spirits and turpentine, etc.. can be pretty nasty to inhale over time. I'm using the soy based Franmar bean-e-doo and strip-e-doo cleaners from one stop apparel. They seem to be about the same cost as other screenprinting-specific chemicals I've purchased in the past, and work as good if not better.


Environmental and health hazards and even if they're not their odor are simply offending or irritating to most.

What are Franmar bean-e-doo and strip-e-doo cleaners marketed for?


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## RichardGreaves

Plastisol is like salad dressing - It's practically harmless

Scrape un-used ink back into the bucket
Pull tape off the frame
Wipe ink residue with a *dry* rag or towel
Minimal mist spray with mild solvent - like cleaning a non-absorbent window
Wipe ink residue with a *dry* rag or towel 
You shouldn't even be able to see what color ink you used
You only needed 2-3 squirts of solvent


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## BroJames

RichardGreaves said:


> Plastisol is like salad dressing - It's practically harmless
> 
> Scrape un-used ink back into the bucket
> Pull tape off the frame
> Wipe ink residue with a *dry* rag or towel
> Minimal mist spray with mild solvent - like cleaning a non-absorbent window
> Wipe ink residue with a *dry* rag or towel
> You shouldn't even be able to see what color ink you used
> You only needed 2-3 squirts of solvent


I hope you will bear with regarding plastisol inks as I am seriosyly considering trying them. In fact I may buy a few colors tomorros or early next week.

1. A supplier has told me that I better have good ventilation because the fumes during the curing process can be harmful. But their office has a dirty kitchen and they print there and cure right in their airconditioned office. They did told me that plastisol inks used in other countries are more environmental friendly but printers here find them too expensive. To your knowledge, are these old plastisol safe or is the supplier being overly cautious? Videos in youtube seems that many printers cure plastisl inks in regular room envoironment and some seem to be in close air conditioned rooms.

Recently, I met another supplier who told me that the fumes are carcinogenic so I must have very good ventilation during curing.

2. What mild absorbent do you use. Here, most printers use kerosene which I cannot use as neighbors are likely to complain. I learned varsol has a milder odor but the Varsol 3040 here is used for mixing ink. Would you happen to know if this Varsol 3040 is the type of varsol used as kerosene alternative?

3. I have also heard of something called curable reducer used as an alternative to kerosene. Would you also happen to have some info on this?

4. Lastly, how about vegetable oil? Do they really work and what type?

Sorry for so many questions but hope you can provide some answers. Thanks.







y do yse heatgun in their shop which


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## RichardGreaves

Plastisols are 100% solids - *nothing evaporates*. What fumes? Ask this supplier to be very specific. Carcinogenic? If you want noxious fumes print some discharge ink.

Both water-base and plastisol inks need to reach about 300 degrees F to completely cure. 80% of water-based ink needs to evaporate before the solids can be bonded with heat - Just like plastisol.

I suggest that those mystery fumes are from the shirts.

If there are fumes - you should vent. If you are cooking and don't like the smell, what would you do?

Slow evaporating kerosene is combustible and used for jet fuel. If Varsol 3040 is used to mix ink, it will blend with it and can act like a detergent/lubricant. 

VARSOL is the trademark for the Exxon line of low odor mineral spirits and Stoddard solvent. It's most valuable trait is low odor without sacrificing solvent power.

*Curable reducer*
Curable reducer will 'reduce' the viscosity of the ink. Plastisol is made of a careful mix of plasticizer + pigment + resin. If you add only plasticizer - viscosity will change drastically, and if you disturb the component ratios, the ink may never cure. Too much plasticizer, and the resin can't absorb it all when the ink is heated. Curable reducer is a blended combination of PVC resin + plasticizer that will cure with the ink.

When you buy ink, look on the specification sheet and buy some suggested clean up chemical to compare to your home brew experiments. 

Ask around. I'm sure you can borrow 10 grams of vegetable oil to test as a cleanup detergent. How would get the vegetable oil out of the screen after cleaning?


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## BroJames

RichardGreaves said:


> Plastisols are 100% solids - *nothing evaporates*. What fumes? Ask this supplier to be very specific. Carcinogenic? If you want noxious fumes print some discharge ink.
> 
> Both water-base and plastisol inks need to reach about 300 degrees F to completely cure. 80% of water-based ink needs to evaporate before the solids can be bonded with heat - Just like plastisol.
> 
> I suggest that those mystery fumes are from the shirts.
> 
> If there are fumes - you should vent. If you are cooking and don't like the smell, what would you do?
> 
> Slow evaporating kerosene is combustible and used for jet fuel. If Varsol 3040 is used to mix ink, it will blend with it and can act like a detergent/lubricant.
> 
> VARSOL is the trademark for the Exxon line of low odor mineral spirits and Stoddard solvent. It's most valuable trait is low odor without sacrificing solvent power.
> 
> *Curable reducer*
> Curable reducer will 'reduce' the viscosity of the ink. Plastisol is made of a careful mix of plasticizer + pigment + resin. If you add only plasticizer - viscosity will change drastically, and if you disturb the component ratios, the ink may never cure. Too much plasticizer, and the resin can't absorb it all when the ink is heated. Curable reducer is a blended combination of PVC resin + plasticizer that will cure with the ink.
> 
> When you buy ink, look on the specification sheet and buy some suggested clean up chemical to compare to your home brew experiments.
> 
> Ask around. I'm sure you can borrow 10 grams of vegetable oil to test as a cleanup detergent. How would get the vegetable oil out of the screen after cleaning?



Thank you very much for the replies. 

The fumes they refer to is from the curing of plastisol(PVC). I have not yet observed plastisol ink being cured but a staff told me that the "odor" is tolerable because they print and cure only 1-2 samples at a time at their office. Both 2 suppliers told me you can smell something.

I am really not sure what they know about the type of plastisols being used here but usually, when top people(and not regular staff) from a supplier told you the fumes are dangerous I think one should follow their suggestions first then ask questions later which is what I am doing. *They do advice a good ventilation system.*

_About a month ago, I have already googled for information regarding plastisol inks and its dangers. Aside from a few allergic reactions there is really no solid information regarding toxicity. *Maybe the plastisol inks here is different as one supplier mentioned that environmentally friendly plastisol are too expensive for local printers. And maybe the type of shirts we normally use here contributes to the fumes. *_

Again, thanks for your replies and they are enlightening. But one more thing, what is the *mild solvent *that you use?


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## RichardGreaves

OK, let me put it a different way. There are NO fumes from the curing of plastisol (PVC).

In 1973, Don Pettry, (who is credited with developing plastisol ink for sportswear), wrote an article for the Technical Guidebooks of the SGIA. I grabbed the opening paragraphs:



_Technical Guidebook article I02, updated to article 1722 sgia.org 1973_
*100 Percent Solids Plastisol Inks*
Don Pettry Flexible Products Co., Inc.

One of the most difficult ideas to get across to screen printers is how a liquid material can be 100 percent total solids. Perhaps this terminology is taking some liberties with our language; however, let me explain further.

Vinyl plastisol textile inks are produced by thoroughly and intimately blending vinyl chloride dispersion resins with various combinations of high boiling organic solvents (plasticizers), along with pigments, heat and light stabilizers, surfactants, fillers or extenders, plus a few other specialized ingredients.

The dry ingredients are kept in suspension due to their extreme lightness and the heavy viscous nature of the liquid ingredients.

When the screened ink is subjected to heat of any origin or type, the resin particles will soften and swell, absorbing the liquids which surround them until all the liquids have been absorbed and the resin particles are completely swollen and melted together, forming a homogeneous film.

This generally occurs when the ink film reaches 149°C to 163°C (300°F to 325°F). Since all of the liquid ingredients boil at 204°C (400°F) or higher, no volatilization will take place during the curing process. This is basically why we refer to the process as “curing” the ink rather than “drying” it. Drying implies the presence of volatile solvents with a subsequent loss of weight and/or yield when the film becomes continuous.

With this in mind, some of the advantages of 100 percent solids inks are more apparent: 


 None of these inks are “red labeled” and can be stored in any portion of your plant.
When the inks are cured, no harmful or hazardous volatile solvents are being generated in the work area. This is an extremely important consideration in view of the concern OSHA has manifested in the working person and his environment.
 Shelf stability is of very little concern, providing the material is stored in moderate to cool temperatures (less than 32°C <90°F>). I recently talked with a man in California who opened a five gallon pail of this type of ink that was seven years old, and the material screened fine and was completely usable after hand stirring.
 This type of ink can be left in a screen for days on end with no ill effects. No hardening or thickening will occur because *nothing is evaporating or flashing off.*


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## BroJames

Thanks again. The information is very encouraging. I will try plastisol soon and see what are these fumes are they talking about. As to cleaning agents, I guess I have some testing to do.


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## RichardGreaves

*Screen Printing Associations & Suppliers*

There are lots of posts from printers in The Philippines in: Asia - T-Shirt Forums

Let us know what plastisol you decided to try.

ASGA Asia Screen Printing & Graphic Imaging Association
www.asganet.com

Screenprinting & Imaging Graphic Association of the Philippines
c/o G-Graphics Sales Corp.
#52 San Rafael St. Bgy. Plainview
Mandaluyong City, 1550
632-531-0781
F: 632-531-7182
[email protected]

M. ENRIQUEZ ART SUPPLY INCORPORATED
1 2/F Robin Theater Building
1541 43 C.M. Recto Avenue Sta. Cruz 
1000 Manila Metro Manila
+63(2)7115160

NESTOR DISTRIBUTORS
1819 Dominga Street
PASAY CITY, 1300
PHILIPINES
63 2404 1686

Printwork Sales Inc.
Unit 1 #1022 E.Rodriguez Sr. Ave, Brgy Mariana, Quezon City 1112, MNL
p: (02)-7278430 f: (02)-7229798
PRINTWORK SALES, INCORPORATED

Saint Patrick Commercial, Incorporated
199 Ermin Garcia Street
Cubao, Metro Manila, Philippines
2 911 0039

Tulco Screen Printing Supply
7-B Aurora Blvd
Quezon City, PHILIPPINES
1113
TULCO Screen Printing Supply

Union Inks & Graphics Philipines, Inc.
Whse. E, Dona Irenea St.
Ireneville Subdivision
Dr. A Santos Ave.
Paranaque City, 1700
Metro Manila
Phone: 63 2 247 0651
Fax: 63 2 247 0655
[email protected]


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## BroJames

Thanks for the trouble of providing the list. The list is outdated and inaccurate. Just thought of updating you or anybody who might be interested.

the asganet.com site is listed as an attack site.

Enriquez is more of a hobby shop and I get all my supplies from them many many years ago when printing is only a hobby. Commercial screen printers generally do not buy from them.

Graphics Sales Corp.does not sell inks but used to print shirts.

Saint Patrick Commercial is a distributor of stabilo highlighter pen plus a few other non screen printing products.

Nestor Distributors carry mostly plastisol ink and they have the varsol I am looking for.

Tulco, Printworks & Union Ink are also legitimate screen suppliers but the tel number of the later is already invalid. Their number on my list is 8200638.


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## edisback2010

scrape out the ink out of the screen and just use mineral spirit. There are other chemicals that are non toxic, be careful.


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## micromaui-closed

I read from this 'forum' that plastisol ink does not dry- but has to be cured at 325. Well I left it on my screens for 2 days now I cannot get it off my screens. I use mineral sprits and it will soon (after many passes) dissolve the plastisol. All I Can y is clean the screens soon after using. use mineral spirits. if they indeed do 'kill' your screens then you can report this to the establishment. as for now, no one seems to know the answer- but scare everyone else to doing what they do. be a HERO! destroy a screen or save the world!


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## BroJames

micromaui said:


> I read from this 'forum' that plastisol ink does not dry- but has to be cured at 325. Well I left it on my screens for 2 days now I cannot get it off my screens. I use mineral sprits and it will soon (after many passes) dissolve the plastisol. All I Can y is clean the screens soon after using. use mineral spirits. if they indeed do 'kill' your screens then you can report this to the establishment. as for now, no one seems to know the answer- but scare everyone else to doing what they do. be a HERO! destroy a screen or save the world!


Can't say if some plastisols are like that - but I'll go for the no. 

I've used a number of plastisol brands with some a little more viscous than others. I sometimes left plastisols on the screen for days or weeks. One time even for 2 months or so. They kind off gel a little over time but all came off quite easily with kerosene or varsol.


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## williekid

i use odorless paint thinner only because i get it free by the 5 gal.


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## RichardGreaves

micromaui,

I think something else is happening. Plastisol needs a strong chemical like "free paint thinner", or heat to cure it. It can naturally age & thicken over many years, but you should be suspicious about plastisol? that sticks in the screen. 

A scraper of any kind will put 95% of plastisol back in the bucket, then a dry rag will get another 4% out of the screen. When you look at the screen you shouldn't even see what color the ink was. Now lightly spray mineral spirits in the screen and wipe the residue off the stencil like it was a window.


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## kc6789

Awesome Orange cleaner from Dollar Tree. I just started using it. Sooooooooo AWESOME!!!


Sent from my iPhone using TShirtForums


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## Blackwater

kc6789 said:


> Awesome Orange cleaner from Dollar Tree. I just started using it. Sooooooooo AWESOME!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using TShirtForums


I use this cleaner at my paintball field to clean my bunkers. It works great. I will have to try it on my screens.
Thanks for the tip!


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## selanac

This looks like an old post, but I went out and bought some LA's Awesome Orange Cleaner. It says it has Ethynol in it. 

It didn't work as well as Mineral Spirits, but it did work. I was surprised. I actually thought the last two posters might have made a mistake and meant to say Water Soluble ink. However, it did work, I just used alot and a little elbow greese.

They have another brand that says, As Seen on TV. Since they're only $1.00 each I bought that too. Haven't tried it yet. 

Now that I can get the Plastisol Ink off, I need to master the screen printing with it. It just seems to dry really fast. 

Even the Water Soluble ink I use dries fast, but at least I can wash the screen and start over. How do big shops make some many perfect looking t-shirts if the ink keeps drying? Anyone have ideas?

I use Plastisol with 110 mesh screens. One color ink in most cases. 

I was wondering if my Flash Dryer was too hot, and heating up the Platen & t-shirt. The other day I didn't even use the flash dryer, and the ink was drying too fast.

I used a chemical in the Water Soluble Ink to keep it from drying. It helped a little. 

Also used a Curable Reducer for the Plastisol.


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## mnhim001

Anyone ever used this stuff to clean plastisol off their screens? Would it mess up the screen in the long run?

Citristrip 1 qt. Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel - QCG73801T at The Home Depot


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## selanac

I've never used it. 

How about trying it and letting us know. 

Happy Thanks Giving.


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## tpitman

Seems kind of extreme to use paint stripper to remove plastisol.


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## RichardGreaves

*Why pay 4 times the cost of mineral spirits?*



mnhim001 said:


> Anyone ever used this stuff to clean plastisol off their screens? Would it mess up the screen in the long run?
> 
> Citristrip 1 qt. Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel - QCG73801T at The Home Depot


N-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone is used to attack *dried *oil-based paint that is stuck to wood.

You can buy a *gallon* of Home Depot SKU # 520113 Mineral Spirits for less than a *quart *of Citristrip. 10 minutes calling oil companies and you will find less expensive sources of mineral spirits in your county.


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## selanac

Isn't Mineral Spirits the same as Paint Thinner?


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## RichardGreaves

selanac said:


> Isn't Mineral Spirits the same as Paint Thinner?


What* is* paint thinner?

Mineral spirits *is* a generic name for one of the first chlorinated dry cleaning solvents invented by Stoddard, that weren't flammable. It has a specific CAS number (Chemical Abstract Service) number. 

Yes, mineral spirits can be used as a paint thinner, but things like nitro-cellulose lacquer thinners are much stronger and prevent a different reaction with the resins in a paint and don't mix well with plastisol inks.

Oils based resins react with oxygen in air when the solvent is gone, but lacquers are prevented from cross-linking by their solvent.


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## BroJames

selanac said:


> This looks like an old post, but I went out and bought some LA's Awesome Orange Cleaner. It says it has Ethynol in it.
> 
> It didn't work as well as Mineral Spirits, but it did work. I was surprised. I actually thought the last two posters might have made a mistake and meant to say Water Soluble ink. However, it did work, I just used alot and a little elbow greese.
> 
> They have another brand that says, As Seen on TV. Since they're only $1.00 each I bought that too. Haven't tried it yet.
> 
> Now that I can get the Plastisol Ink off, I need to master the screen printing with it. It just seems to dry really fast.
> 
> Even the Water Soluble ink I use dries fast, but at least I can wash the screen and start over. How do big shops make some many perfect looking t-shirts if the ink keeps drying? Anyone have ideas?
> 
> I use Plastisol with 110 mesh screens. One color ink in most cases.
> 
> I was wondering if my Flash Dryer was too hot, and heating up the Platen & t-shirt. The other day I didn't even use the flash dryer, and the ink was drying too fast.
> 
> I used a chemical in the Water Soluble Ink to keep it from drying. It helped a little.
> 
> Also used a Curable Reducer for the Plastisol.


Household cooking oil works too although you need more oil and more elbow grease. I am not sure if the type of oil matters (for example corn oil, palm oil, etc).

Like Greaves posted, you should be suspicious of plastisol sticking to screens (or drying fast). Just a few days ago, I cleaned plastisol left on screens for several months. Excess plastisol has been scrapped but the residue left of the screen. Most came off like flakes but some "thicker" areas hardened a bit but have not dried.

Regular water soluble inks or waterbase inks does dry fast and you can't print colored jobs with them on rotary press. But there are medium to long drying waterbase inks which can be used on rotary presses. Matsui has waterbase inks that won't dry on your screen for days. 

Plastisol on 110 mesh seems like a pretty thick coat. If you still need to add curable reducers maybe your plastisol is a little different. What is the brand of plastisol you are using? Plastisol drying, especially "_too fast_" and the need to add some "_chemical in the Water Soluble Ink to keep it from drying_", seems a little mysterious.


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## tpitman

I think what makes plastisol sort of bind up sometimes is when the oil in it leaches out, often into masking tape left on a screen. You'll notice it also when you use an old shirt or anything absorbent to mop up a good quantity. The blob will thicken quite noticeably.


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## RichardGreaves

selanac,
I only just saw your initial post from September.

Ethynol is a corn based alcohol solvent. Alcohols mix well with water and evaporate fast but they tend to break down some rubbers or plastics which usually makes them sticky, not the slippery _shampoo_ effect you want to clean screens. 

"but it did work"; and so will gasoline; which also mixes well with Ethynol.

As I wrote before, if it seems that plastisol 'dries in the screen', something's reacted with it, not aging or drying.

You didn't share what ink or curing method you use. Water-based - water soluble inks must balance between drying in the screen slowly, yet dry quickly once the print is made and you want to stack your shirts. Commercial shops use large driers to dry and cure, and staff to keep things moving. Commercial water-based inks usually have a retarder in their additives range to slow drying in the screen, but will tag along with water vapor as it leaves the ink film.

You co-mingled plastisol and water-base info in this question post about plastisol cleanup, but when it comes to flashing; infra-red panels don't evaporate water very well. 

Everyone knows that "it works", with enough time, but the philosophy of flashing is to take plastisol up and not exceed 210 F; to gel the ink, not cure it. If you cure the base it's physically impossible for the layers to bond and cure - Laundry and abrasion will deteriorate the print.

Your problem with spikes of base, sticking through the color has to do with the surface texture, not boiling.

Last but not least, in the words of the great ink salesman Jeff Proctor, "110 mesh is the Model-T of the t-shirt business". As you learn to use finer, thinner, higher tension mesh, lower off-contact and stiffer squeegee blades, your prints will improve.


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## selanac

Ken,

I had to go back and read the post you were talking about. 

I was actually talking about both Plastisol, and water base. They both seem to dry in the screen. I believe I tried using a Retarder in the Water base, and the other chemical for Plastisol, and they both helped a little. 

I've since learned to keep a water bottle near by when using a water base ink, and also wipe the bottle of the screen. Also tried different stroke methods

Are you saying to lower the Off contact to screen print? I lowered my Off Contact to about a penny. 

My four color was new, and didn't have very good installation instructions. When I put the piece on the shaft that holds the four arms on, it didn't show a ring that goes over the shaft. 

So basically, I should have taken the ring off the shaft. Put the bottom base piece that holds the Arms on. Put the ring over that to screw into the shaft and hold it on. 

Due to that mess. The press wouldn't register. So after looking at other presses online I could see there was a ring on top of the bottom piece. So I went back to the shop and pulled the base off, and sure enough the ring was underneath. Everything then registered and my screen printing improved about 80 percent. 

This was long so I hope I didn't confuse you.

Thank you for the Tips!


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## BroJames

selanac said:


> ...I was actually talking about both Plastisol, and water base. They both seem to dry in the screen. I believe I tried using a Retarder in the Water base, and the other chemical for Plastisol, and they both helped a little.
> 
> I've since learned to keep a water bottle near by when using a water base ink, and also wipe the bottle of the screen. Also tried different stroke methods...


I am really curious about your plastisol drying right on the screen. Do you have a brand?

wipe the bottle of the screen? Have you tried using a spray bottle?


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## selanac

BroJames said:


> I am really curious about your plastisol drying right on the screen. Do you have a brand?
> 
> wipe the bottle of the screen? Have you tried using a spray bottle?


Oops, should have read, wipe the Bottom of the screen. 

I can't remember the name of the Ink. It has a Red White and Blue Labeling, and the company is based in NJ. That's the Plastisol ink I'm talking about.

Also may have been an issue where the press was right next to the conveyor dryer. Had the Flash on one side, and the Conveyor on the other sandwiching the press in the middle.

I now use the 4 color which is on the other side of the flash so not experiencing that problem.


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## shirtsari

I use Excalibur plastisol ink from Lancer group and my Ivory soap and water work fine to remove the ink. Just use lots of soap. I am sure you may be able to use just about any soap. I am not sure if soap and water works for other brands of plastisol in but it is worth a try. Believe it or not the Excalibur inks appear to really love soap and water.

I live with a few people and I am sure they would complain about solvent odors.

I use Textil DW as my emulsion at the moment.


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## shirtsari

If your "Plastisol" ink is drying in the screen it may actually be a solvent based ink. Here in Toronto ASC365 sells a "PVC" ink. They said it was for t-shirts but I think it is actually a solvent based ink for printing on plastic. It will work for shirts but it air dries and becomes very hard.

Does anyone else uses ASC365 PVC inks? If so what do you think.
url: www.asc365.com
in Toronto


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## tpitman

shirtsari said:


> I use Excalibur plastisol ink from Lancer group and my Ivory soap and water work fine to remove the ink. Just use lots of soap. I am sure you may be able to use just about any soap. I am not sure if soap and water works for other brands of plastisol in but it is worth a try. I use Textil DW as my emulsion at the moment.


I suppose if you really wipe the screen down good with an old shirt or rags before taking to the washout sink soap will work, but you'd be better off using an ink degradent made for the job, followed by a degreaser. Takes hardly any of each to get the remaining ink residue out, and is likely much quicker. Best degradent I've used is EasySolve 701. Not cheap, but a light spray and a scrub to each side of the screen removes the ink film and, more importantly, most staining left by some ink. Rinse, and spray with some Simple Green from Home Depot, diluted about 10:1, scrub and rinse.


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## BroJames

shirtsari said:


> I use Excalibur plastisol ink from Lancer group and my Ivory soap and water work fine to remove the ink. Just use lots of soap. I am sure you may be able to use just about any soap. I am not sure if soap and water works for other brands of plastisol in but it is worth a try. I use Textil DW as my emulsion at the moment.


It may work for some or all plastisol inks but isn't it a bit tedious?


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## shirtsari

I just use Ivory soap (the soap brand is not important) and water. I use Excalibur plastisol ink and Textil DW as my emulsion. You don't have to scrub much if you first remove most of the ink and then use lots of soap.
The original question was how to remove the ink. Dehazing is a different story. But plain old soap and water will eliminate a lot of expense and odor. A lot of the people on this site seem to be teenagers and I don't think their parents will want solvents stinking up the house.


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## tpitman

You'd probably be better off with a degreaser like Simple Green either full strength, or cut maybe 50/50. It smells pretty good.


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## genova15

WE use Acetone.


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## selanac

We use LA's Awesome Orange Cleaner. That's the actual name and we get it from the Dollar Tree. Oh yeah, and it cost $1.00. Lol.


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## derakicksyou

i've just been using laquer thinner. doesn't mess with my screens or emultion, but christ does is stink. I need to switch up. I live with my brother & print recreationally in the basement, and his wife just had a kid. (i ventilate pretty good, but the house still stinks after a little laquer thinner gets used)


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## RichardGreaves

*Acetone is extreme for plastisol*



genova15 said:


> WE use Acetone.


If it works, it works, but for harmless plastisol ink, acetone is expensive overkill and will usually cause the plastisol PVC resin to dissolve and stain the mesh.

Take some time to read earlier posts 25, 27 & 29.

Be very careful. Plastisol like PVA or PVA/PVAC emulsions can react with strong vinyl solvent, or MEK, or acetone and part of the polyvinyl alcohol is "acetylized".

Most SBQ stencils don't have much solvent resistance and an UNDER exposed stencil will permanently harden in the mesh making it impossible to reclaim. That's what a stencil hardener does.

Acetone is dangerous because it's very flammable because it evaporates very fast and has a boiling point *less than gasoline* of 132F (56.1 C) and a flash point of 15 F (-9 C). 

Yes you read that right, more flammable than gasoline. I don't want more than 1 gallon of this stuff in the shop at any one time.


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## BroJames

I've also tried cooking oil and it does work. Not as cost efficient as kerosene or maybe other commercial screen washers (for plastisols).


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## cybrknite

Ok, I am not a professional shop, I work for one and have recently obtained a 2 station press. I run a haunted house and set up the press to make shirts for my volunteer actors. I was using Blacklight Green and ink dried in the screen and I could not remove it with anything I tried, mineral spirits, goop, detergent, WD 40, Break Cleaner, nothing, I was about to try to spray it out with pressure from a distance, but then I tried Goof Off, and it worked like a charm! The ink blew out and stencil is still in tact. I am off to buy several more cans! I'm doing this at home and using home remedies, so anyway, in case anyone has the same dilemma. Happy Printing!


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## twoody

Don't use paint thinner. Citra Paste or any cleaner will work fine but remember to cure your rags of ink when your done to a solid state.


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## tman07

Franmar DeHaze will work just as well as Goof Off - and probably half the cost


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## ParrotPrinting

Greaves I don't think he will ever believe you.......

Does anyone here have any experience with Union Ink. Type of hand, ease of use, durability, that sort of thing.......I've never used it but I have been given some and don't know anything about this particular brand.


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## Screen Medics

The technical people at Vastex (makers of the numbering presses) call for XYLOL exclusively for ink removal. It does not degrade the emulsion should you be saving the screen for a future order and cleans fast. It removes all of the ink.

We have used the same number screens for over 5 years without having to reclaim and reburn them.


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## ParrotPrinting

Thanks for the tip


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