# Heavy-Duty Cleaning Fluid for DTG



## Sunro

At the risk of sounding awfully naive, is anyone aware of what is in the heavy-duty cleaning fluids sold or recommended by various DTG printer manufacturers?

I am a firm believer in using lots of the stuff daily to keep our print head and capping station super clean. This philosophy has served us well so far. The fluid we use seems to be very effective.

However, it isn't exactly cheap! I was wondering if it's possible to make our own, if the ingredients are readily available. We're using Dupont inks, which necessitate the need to be watchful in keeping the printer components clean.


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## DAGuide

There is this stuff - DTG Inks - DTG Clog Protection Solution But this does not go through the print head. It only goes into the capping station. It is too thick to go through the print head I believe.

I know other people have used a special type of Windex or even Simple Green. If you do a search on Windex, you should find a post that tells you the correct one to get as the other type has some stuff that is bad for your printer. I believe Sunnydayz or Mistelwoods was the one that posted it, but I could be wrong.


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## zhenjie

I've used ammonia diluted with distilled water for capping station cleans.


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## Sunro

I've chatted with a couple of people on the phone about this topic as well, and they recommended a dilute solution of Simple Green, in light of the fact that Windex has changed its formula to include wax. Zhenjie suggests an ammonia/water solution, which would be closer to the original Windex and is likely ok too.

I'm going to grab a small bottle of Simple Green when I get the chance, and try something like a 50-50 mix with distilled water, (or perhaps even weaker than that ... suggestions anyone??)

Thanks to all for contributing their thoughts.


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## PRIMJET

Sunro said:


> I've chatted with a couple of people on the phone about this topic as well, and they recommended a dilute solution of Simple Green, in light of the fact that Windex has changed its formula to include wax. Zhenjie suggests an ammonia/water solution, which would be closer to the original Windex and is likely ok too.
> 
> I'm going to grab a small bottle of Simple Green when I get the chance, and try something like a 50-50 mix with distilled water, (or perhaps even weaker than that ... suggestions anyone??)
> 
> Thanks to all for contributing their thoughts.


To clean capping Ok but head no. A good cleaning flush is not only cleaning the head but also applied a protective film which increase the lifespan of the head.
If You use a small EPSON a USD100 is not so important that a Dupont Textile plotter with head at USD 3000 each
To produce a very good flush You need several components and chemical apparatus like mixer, very precise weight,etc and components are sold by 200kg drum ,so if You buy 10 liters flush/month it's better to follow.
Do not forgot that is hazardous to produce chemical products home and with no chemical notion


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## sodrisc

thanks for the info primjet, but not all of us have $3K printheads, my current whole dtg cost me £75 so im very interested in a homebrew cleaning solution. I have also just bought some simple green, sounds like what i have been looking for, thanks for the tip


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## PRIMJET

sodrisc said:


> thanks for the info primjet, but not all of us have $3K printheads, my current whole dtg cost me £75 so im very interested in a homebrew cleaning solution. I have also just bought some simple green, sounds like what i have been looking for, thanks for the tip


OK but avoid ammoniac in piezo head, better use in place urea


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## sodrisc

funny you should say that but i have been playing about with Thiourea dioxide on a side shoot project, its the same as urea isnt it ? around how many gramms per litre would you recommend ?


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## Naga

sodrisc said:


> funny you should say that but i have been playing about with Thiourea dioxide on a side shoot project, its the same as urea isnt it ? around how many gramms per litre would you recommend ?


Oh no, Thiourea dioxide is a dangerous product. Urea is almost harmless.


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## PRIMJET

sodrisc said:


> funny you should say that but i have been playing about with Thiourea dioxide on a side shoot project, its the same as urea isnt it ? around how many gramms per litre would you recommend ?


Not a lot about 2 to 3% is enough but ask for good urea, fully transparent like water and no strong smell


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## sodrisc

alright excuse my ignorance but isnt plain old urea just pee? are you by chance extracting any from me at the moment or are you seriously suggesting i pee in some distilled water and stick it through my printer ?

**alright i was going to edit this (instant posters regret) but i have to ask lol**


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## PRIMJET

sodrisc said:


> alright excuse my ignorance but isnt plain old urea just pee? are you by chance extracting any from me at the moment or are you seriously suggesting i pee in some distilled water and stick it through my printer ?
> 
> **alright i was going to edit this (instant posters regret) but i have to ask lol**


You can find several kinds of urea
 click for details​








Search for: *UREA* IUPAC Nameurea CAS Number57-13-6 Chemical FormulaCH4N2O








*UREA, Urea (8CI,9CI), Urea (JP14/USP), Urea ammonium nitrate solution, Urea perhydrate, Urea solution, Urea [JAN], Urea, homopolymer, Urea-13C, Ureacin-10 lotion, Ureacin-20, Ureacin-40 Creme, Ureaphil, Ureophil, Urepeal, Urepeal L, Urepearl, Urevert, Varioform II
What You need is not the urea used as fertilizer but a liquid urea which is transparent like water
*


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## TJet3Pro

HD Cleaner from american supply in my capping station keeps things tidy


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## sodrisc

PRIMJET said:


> You can find several kinds of urea
> 
> click for details​
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search for: *UREA* IUPAC Nameurea CAS Number57-13-6 Chemical FormulaCH4N2O
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UREA, Urea (8CI,9CI), Urea (JP14/USP), Urea ammonium nitrate solution, Urea perhydrate, Urea solution, Urea [JAN], Urea, homopolymer, Urea-13C, Ureacin-10 lotion, Ureacin-20, Ureacin-40 Creme, Ureaphil, Ureophil, Urepeal, Urepeal L, Urepearl, Urevert, Varioform II*
> *What You need is not the urea used as fertilizer but a liquid urea which is transparent like water*


i realised my error soon after posting and checking wiki, it was just your comment about clear and cloudy, smelly, i wasnt sure if you meant the commercial stuff or the difference between a early morning or just drunk lots of water pee, thansk for clearing that up


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## sodrisc

i have been using simple green for the last week to clean the head/capping station etc.... it works very well, im using 20ml of undiluted simple green per 500ml of distilled water, any more than that tends to froth to much for my liking while cleaning.


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## Sunro

sodrisc said:


> i have been using simple green for the last week to clean the head/capping station etc.... it works very well, im using 20ml of undiluted simple green per 500ml of distilled water, any more than that tends to froth to much for my liking while cleaning.


This has become a rather interesting thread (peeing on the printhead notwithstanding  ). Have you observed any negative side effects of Simple Green yet?

I have been looking at the various products offered by the makers of Simple Green, and the ones that seem most interesting are the variants made for pressure washing. They are listed as non-corrosive and non-acidic, two properties I would think are important when using to clean a print head.

The 20ml/500ml dilution would indicate it is enormously cheaper than HD Cleaner but I wonder if it would be harmful if used to power clean a 4880, not just clean the capping station and outside of the head?

The 'Aircraft' version of Simple Green is designed for use where it can come in contact with rubber, vinyl and metal items, but I haven't found a local supplier.

Under normal domestic use, it is necessary to rinse the stuff away after cleaning, so I wonder if there might be a build-up of cleaner residue after a while? Of course, the same might be true of HD Cleaner too. What none of us likely knows is whether or not there is any chemical interaction between Simple Green and ink components that might cause trouble in the long term.

Does anyone know what is in these various versions of the product? The only info I have found simply states it's non-toxic and biodegradable. Curious minds want to know


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## Sunro

Did a little more reading, and something important came to light ... the standard household version of Simple Green should not be used on aluminum surfaces.

Although I expect that any aluminum parts in the ink delivery chain of a DTG printer are anodized for protection against water damage, this caution bears watching. The 'Aircraft' version most likely avoids this issue (of course!).

For that matter, are there any aluminum components in an Epson ink system?


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## sodrisc

thats a little worrying...... but since i have been using simple green to clean the head/capping station i havent had to run cleans of cleaning fluid in the carts at all yet, i do run a couple of head cleans after application so i guess thats getting rid of any excess left on there ?


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## Sunro

sodrisc said:


> thats a little worrying......


Yes, that's why I'd like to locate some of the 'Aircraft' grade Simple Green, because it should be formulated to not affect aluminum. I'm not certain that the advertised 'non-corrosive' and 'non-acidic' properties of the 'Pressure Wash' variants would qualify, so I need to dig a bit further.

With regard to our cleaning schedule (BlazerPro) we religiously clean the heads at least twice per day, even on days we don't do any printing. On days when we do a lot of printing, the capping station is cleaned at least once partway thru the day. We have found that anything less can occasionally lead to clogged nozzles simply because the head tends to dry out a bit despite a good capping station seal. Our little print shop has tightly controlled temperature and humidity, which should help (and it makes working there quite pleasant).

In another thread, I mentioned that we were having real problems with possibly non-genuine or old white ink, and it has taken a significant amount of time for this to clear up. We are going to be much more careful in that regard as well. I'm hoping that a diluted Simple Green solution could be a decent but less expensive 'de-clogger' for situations like that.


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## jaxsterapparel

I found a source for good "aircraft" grade simple green.

and I converted the ounces in relation to the mix that was suggested earlier in this thread.

.68 oz of simple green to 17 oz of distilled water.

OR

.8 oz of simple green to 20 oz of distilled water. (Soda bottle)

*Basically a 1/25 ratio per ounce.*

I hope this helps. I am eager to try this verses the $80 for 1 liter.


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## Sunro

Thanks for the link to the Simple Green reseller. Too bad I can't easily get the stuff shipped into Canada (shipping costs more than the product, and liquids can be problematic unless really well packed).

In the mean time, we have discovered that the latest batch of HD cleaner from US Screen seems different ... rather oily and thick, and it foams easily. In conversation with the support folks, it was suggested that we dilute the HD fluid 30% with distilled water and add a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to increase its effectiveness. So far this has not caused any problems, although its tendency to foam up is a bit annoying.


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## sunnydayz

I did also notice that the cleaning solution that Mesa now sells for the dtg's, the pink stuff, is really foamy. I am not sure what is up with that, but it really foams alot. When they had the clear cleaner, it never foamed.


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## Stitch-Up

So, here we are, 2 years on from the last post in the discussion on Simple Green.

Any conclusions? Does anyone use this for cleaning DTG lines & prinheads? If so, what's your mixture?

John


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## Sunro

It's interesting this thread should wake up again 2 years later.

We have continued to use the expensive HD cleaner because there are too many unanswered questions regarding SimpleGreen to risk damaging our printer.

We stopped adding isopropyl alcohol to the mixture because there have been suggestions elsewhere that it can damage the rubber seal on the capping station. We have no proof of this, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

We still religiously clean the head and capping station seal often during a busy day, and at least once per day when not printing (including weekends). Lately business has been quite good, so keeping the printer busy and clean is paying off. Over the past 3+ years we have found that the harder you work the Blazer, the better it performs. Part of that may be due to serious attention to maintenance and cleanliness.

Now, if only someone would come up with a good bagged-ink conversion kit (Mod-1 style) for the 4880, we'd be in even better shape.


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## Stitch-Up

I'm certain there's an alternative we could mix ourselves and save a substantial amount of do$h.

When I purchased my Neoflex system I also purchased a Jet Genie Inkjet Head Cleaner - a bit of insurance against the inevitable ink clogs. However, I have to say I've not experienced any clogging.

[MEDIA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkea2711o_Q[/MEDIA]

I received an email from the inventor of the Jet Genie today when I suggested creating a cleaning mix including *isopropanol.* This is his reply:

"
DO NOT use alcohol!!!! You’ll ruin the print head AND the Jet Genie"


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## Sunro

THANKS FOR YOUR POSTING!

You have confirmed what others have suggested could be a problem. Luckily our only use of isopropanol was a *very* low percentage of the mixture, and we stopped using it months ago, so it would appear we've dodged a bullet.

Which makes me wonder ... does SimpleGreen contain even small amounts of alcohol? And is it made with either distilled or ultra-filtered water? Tiny insoluble particulates in any cleaning solution could conceivably lodge in the nozzles.

And forget about the suggestion made some time ago of using Windex ... it's very alkaline and contains a wax to make surfaces look shiny. Just lovely.


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## binki

DTGInks.com sells CPS, Clog Protection Solution, for the capping station. We use it on our DTG Kiosk II and our 1280 dyesub.


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## TahoeTomahawk

We no longer use Simple Green, it delaminated a few of our print heads after continuous use.

What to use really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are looking for a cleaning for the capping station, wiper blade etc, then it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you clean the area daily. You can use windex, pure amonia, a combo of the two, or cut with distilled water. 

If you are leaving fluid in the capping station, use the Dupont Flushing solution in your capping station as opposed to windex, ammonia or simple green.
A few of my print heads became delaminated using simple green, and ammonia based cleaners can do the same. 

When using Bagged ink from Belquette, we found we don't even have to let the print head 'soak' overnight in the capping station anymore. We just clean it down with windex and when the print head is docked, turn the printer off. No auto-head cleans needed so it saves on waste ink as well.
Our humidity is on average 30% and the Belquette bags still perform amazing. Even leaving it for an entire weekend sitting in a dry but clean capping station will be ok.


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## Sunro

Good info ... thanks!! Now I'm glad we didn't try SimpleGreen or an ammonia solution.

All we need is a reliable conversion kit for Belquette bagged ink on a 4880 and we're golden


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## threadmasters

Can you tell the process how to use the DTG Clog Protection Solution...there arent any procedures on how to use it and I can't seem to get an answer...


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## threadmasters

Accodding to the msds sheet from Dupont cleaning solution is 80-98% water (distilled im sure) and 2-20% Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol (this one is considered toxic) Both chemicals are availabe on ebay...Has anyone attempted to make their own cleaning solution...Doesnt really seem too difficult...


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## Stitch-Up

I produced something similar:


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## threadmasters

I thought you werent suppose to put alcohol on the equipment (would dry it out)?


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## DAGuide

I am all for saving money when it is a smart move, but I have gotta to ask (in a non-threaten way)... is this a smart move? Form my perspective, cleaning fluid is pretty cheap from most places and there is not much difference between them (outside there is a heavy duty formula and the standard formula for the Epson printers). I also know from my experience that most dtg users don't go through that much cleaning fluids unless they decide to run cleaning fluid through all their ink lines (like an oil change on a car - which I recommend periodically). 

If you agree with the statements above, the risk vs. reward analysis would be the following:
- Reward - save some costs (but remember I have to buy the chemicals and pay for shipping if I get them from eBay)
- Risk - spend some of my own time making it (i.e. labor expense), risk the chance that the formula was not done correctly and the potential that my print head could delaminate (causing me to have to buy a new print head). 

Did I miss anything? The only factor I see that might encourage someone to make their own is if they don't have readily access to a supplier of this (i.e. shipping costs to high, not enough competition,...).

I am not totally against doing things like this, but I think everyone should really consider this before going down this route. Just some things to consider.

Mark


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## Stitch-Up

If I was in the US Mark, I'd no doubt agree with you. Here in the UK, the DTG marketplace is much smaller and therefore competition too. The result - prices are higher than in the US.

A typical price for 5ltrs of cleaning solution is £70 or $110. Perhaps you can understand why it's appealing to mix fluid that's 95% (maybe), water + other cheap ingredients ourselves? Of course you have to add 20% tax & delivery costs to that!!!

Windex seems to be a common product in the US - it's not available in the UK.

John


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## threadmasters

The cleaning solution is between 40 and 80 usd a liter...so its rather expensive, especially to flush your system, which may take approx a liter if you have white ink and want a complete purge of your system.


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## DAGuide

John,

I understand your situation and hope that your situation changes as dtg printing because more popular. This is why I mentioned if you did not have access to a regular supply of this. I just want to make sure that when people read this thread they are aware of the pros / cons and apply their own analysis based on their situation. For anyone in the United States, I personally have a hard time recommending that they should undertake this process. If you use too much of one chemical, it is very easy to cause more expense than you would save.

As for flushing the system, most printers do not require a full liter of cleaning fluid to do this and I know several companies that dilute it down with distilled water. Just need to figure out what works for you based on the inks you use.

Mark


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## ywane

i think windex or simple green use detergent too..its isoprophil alchohol save to use for printhead


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## erich

the following formula will work perfect.

5L DI (De-ionised) Water, Type E-11 electronic grade (D5127-90)
250ml Isopropyl
25ml dishwashing liquid

Jerry
DTG Digital


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## Chicken Spit

TahoeTomahawk said:


> We no longer use Simple Green, it delaminated a few of our print heads after continuous use.
> 
> What to use really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are looking for a cleaning for the capping station, wiper blade etc, then it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you clean the area daily. You can use windex, pure amonia, a combo of the two, or cut with distilled water.
> 
> If you are leaving fluid in the capping station, use the Dupont Flushing solution in your capping station as opposed to windex, ammonia or simple green.
> A few of my print heads became delaminated using simple green, and ammonia based cleaners can do the same.
> 
> When using Bagged ink from Belquette, we found we don't even have to let the print head 'soak' overnight in the capping station anymore. We just clean it down with windex and when the print head is docked, turn the printer off. No auto-head cleans needed so it saves on waste ink as well.
> Our humidity is on average 30% and the Belquette bags still perform amazing. Even leaving it for an entire weekend sitting in a dry but clean capping station will be ok.


This is my first post but I have been garment printing with Epson print heads for years....I can *guarantee* simple green will delaminate an Epson head Teflon or not. If you use simple green mix it at 25% green 75% purified water. Never let the solution sit in “on” Epson head for more than 30 min. Then this is a must….. flush all simple green out with purified water. You can let the water sit in the lines and head for days if needed, then repeat with 2 or 3 power cleanings of simple green. Then power clean with water until all green is out.

You can also pull the head out set it in small cup about 1/8th inch deep in green and use a syringe sucking only, do not push green solution thru the head. Except you can push water very lightly thru head, with head in front of a light source to see if all nozzles are shooting.


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## allamerican-aeoon

Just clean water? If heated touch hot minus will not hurt nothing. People love to spend money.
Did you ever think about heat up? 
Sometimes, no many times simple has answers.


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## Chicken Spit

allamerican said:


> Just clean water? If heated touch hot minus will not hurt nothing. People love to spend money.
> Did you ever think about heat up?
> Sometimes, no many times simple has answers.


I Agree hot water is the best way to start out with…But I was just tryin to say, If your set on using simple green it must be flushed soon. With white ink, hot water may not be enough to get all the nozzles, so if you use green don’t let it sit long. 
I use ½ boiling water and ½ cleaning solution as last resort. But that is the most expensive and last resort. But almost always works.
But hot water is best used first…and best for storing printer up for any length of time…


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## 23spiderman

i use Simple Green and it works like a charm. but i always flush with distilled water so the Simple Green never sits in the head. as soon as the clog is gone, distilled water goes in.


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## Chicken Spit

23spiderman said:


> i use Simple Green and it works like a charm. but i always flush with distilled water so the Simple Green never sits in the head. as soon as the clog is gone, distilled water goes in.


 I used to do the same thing but every time green goes thru a very small amount of the glue that laminates the head is removed. So after 30 or 40 cleanings it was enought to get two channels next to each other to combine each ones ink makin funny colors. But I also delaminated a head by puttin green in the capping station only. So I just gave up on green...buying to many heads. It is just cheaper for me to hot water flush, if that dont work I use 50/50 cleaning soulution to hot water. That usualy only happens when white ink is involved.

But I still know people that do just like you, but they are not cleaning as much as I do?

Thanks for the input!

But for me "The one good thing about repeating your mistakes is that you know when to cringe"


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## 23spiderman

i appreciate the info. i'll be sure to keep a close eye on my cleaning processes, and i agree with you regarding the hot water. i just didn't have the time to let the hot water work, as i had a job due the same day that i noticed my head was clogged.


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## ywane

the problem may caused different simple green,there is using amonia or not


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## spiderx1

A warm cleaning solution is far more effective. Windex can be used but it needs to be the original without additives. I.e. no wax. Dilute 50% distilled water. A good sub for commercial cleaning solution is 10% ethylene glycol, 10% propolyene glycol and 80% distilled water. These are by weight.


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## tcoger

The home made solution I was told about was windex, ammonia and vodka. Seems to work very well. I'll have to check the windex if they have changed the formula


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## vinyl signs

tcoger said:


> The home made solution I was told about was windex, ammonia and vodka. Seems to work very well. I'll have to check the windex if they have changed the formula


Is the Vodka for you?


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## tcoger

Sometimes I feel like it should be.


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## ywane

for the best result dont use the cleaning solution more than 30 minutes


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## zoom_monster

Vodka,
Why not use everclear?
seriously....... I've heard many warnings about isopropyl not being a good thing to use a lot of in the head. Not sure about methanol, but I've seen first hand what denatured alcohol will do to plexyglass and certain plastics. Simple green and Windex come in several formulations. My choice is warm distilled water with clear non-foaming ammonia added in (just a dash) just before you use it. It's cheap, it's easily sourced, it jets, and it's worked for me without issue for over a year.


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## ywane

thanks Z...what kind clear do you used, i think that use Isoprophyl alcohol too maybe just a little


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## JonWye

Sunro said:


> Now, if only someone would come up with a good bagged-ink conversion kit (Mod-1 style) for the 4880, we'd be in even better shape.


I'm working on one now. I've got a separate thread for it.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/direct-garment-dtg-inkjet-printing/t179531.html


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## JonWye

spiderx1 said:


> A warm cleaning solution is far more effective. Windex can be used but it needs to be the original without additives. I.e. no wax. Dilute 50% distilled water. A good sub for commercial cleaning solution is 10% ethylene glycol, 10% propolyene glycol and 80% distilled water. These are by weight.


Any new thoughts or discoveries with regard to making your own cleaning mixture. I've started a thread about it where I am hoping DTG owners will chime in on what they know with regard to creating a cleaning solution that matches what dupont puts out.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/dtg-brand/t164079.html


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## adrenaline

The ligfht pink cleaning solution has no sub butaols in it and is very safe on print heads. When doing a flush it should be watered down with de mineralised water by 15:1. As a normal cleaning solution and for ptuin gito capping station is is very good for stopping the head clogs. Also after this goes through the pump assembley etc and i have pulled a few apart after it they are like new and the lines etc are very clean. It will actuall soften and slowly disolve the water base inks that are built up with damaging any other parts. Windex and alcahol please avoide it. As a test grab a new syreieng and put alchohlol in ti and leav then see how easy it is to pull after that? It firm s up alot as the rubber dries up more and hardens same as for windex. So just imagine what is happening to the pump assembley and the rubber seals o the capping station. To save money spend a bti and get the correct stuff. You will save on print heads etc in the end. For example my Viper is a early 2009 model and is only on its second print head. I have done alot of testing on the new cleaning solution and pulled aprt the capping station etc when repalced and it was so clean inside and all parts still moved freely. Know i have not doen a capping station replacement since the first service over 2 years ago. I only go through about 1lt of cleaning fluid every 2.5 months. I flush all out with samll bit of cleaning solution just enough to go into lines then H20 till clean a little wipe over all ruubbers etc with the cleaning solution and finally put the cleaning solution in the capping station before homing the print head after a days work, Probably use 15ml a day of it max. Cheap insurance


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## JonWye

What pink cleaning solution are you talking about. Your logic is sound, but you did not mention what you actually use. A homemade cleaning solution or an off-the-shelf one.


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## spiderx1

Throw a shrimp on the Barbie. Do not confuse alcohol with glycol. Glycols tend to keep things from evaporate slowly while alcohols evaporate rapidly. All in moderation. Word of caution. Putting a few drops in the capping station at night helps but filling the capping station can cause unwanted ink migration between channels or even empty your ink into the waste, all of it!!!!


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## adrenaline

The Fluid i use is the pink one of the shelf purchased


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## adrenaline

spiderx1 said:


> Throw a shrimp on the Barbie. Do not confuse alcohol with glycol. Glycols tend to keep things from evaporate slowly while alcohols evaporate rapidly. All in moderation. Word of caution. Putting a few drops in the capping station at night helps but filling the capping station can cause unwanted ink migration between channels or even empty your ink into the waste, all of it!!!!


Yes and i have heard of a few fully syphened inks containers before. If you are going to flood the you need to nlock of waste ink tank line and also ink lines, but turn machine off. I do this when going away for a week or so to save flushing machine and then when back 1 head clean and all is good. I just put wims on a seperate timer plug so it runs twice a day for 20 mins.


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## ywane

i only see green cleanning solution like neoflex and coolman, but i dont know whats to make colour green/pink or maybe from little ink


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## adrenaline

Two different products all together. Glycol is what they use to prime the new print heads so they last longer on the shelf without drying out so yes is has a very slow evap rate.


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## FulStory

Sunro said:


> At the risk of sounding awfully naive, is anyone aware of what is in the heavy-duty cleaning fluids sold or recommended by various DTG printer manufacturers?
> 
> I am a firm believer in using lots of the stuff daily to keep our print head and capping station super clean. This philosophy has served us well so far. The fluid we use seems to be very effective.
> 
> However, it isn't exactly cheap! I was wondering if it's possible to make our own, if the ingredients are readily available. We're using Dupont inks, which necessitate the need to be watchful in keeping the printer components clean.


so after all, which cleaning fluid you prefer? simple green?


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## FulStory

Simple Green Extreme Motorsport Cleaner

is this simple green suitable? LOL


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## deh4170

What % of alcohol are you using? Thank you.


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## deh4170

erich said:


> the following formula will work perfect.
> 
> 5L DI (De-ionised) Water, Type E-11 electronic grade (D5127-90)
> 250ml Isopropyl
> 25ml dishwashing liquid
> 
> Jerry
> DTG Digital


Jerry...what strength of Isopropyl are you using? Would any de-ionised water work or does it specifically need to be D5127-90? Thank you.


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