# Stencil Film



## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

Anybody used direct stencil film to make their screens? I was looking for an alternative for applying emulsion on screens and came across 
Ulano CDF/QT-50 direct stencil film and the Ulano knife cut stencil film. I bought the knife cut film but did not have much success so I wanted to know of any experiences or pros & cons of the direct stencil film before I bought any.
Any info. would be greatly appreciated.


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

I use the Ulano CDF-5 all the time. I've never used the QT version or the knife cut. The CDF-5 is great. I never use liquid emulsion. The film is more expensive, but it's worth it for me for the ease of use, quickness of creating a screen, and the better quality stencils.

If you do buy some ask the rep to make sure it's not past the expiration date. I was recently given an old box and it was terrible. They replaced it with another old box. And then the Ulano rep finally got me a fresh box, and it worked great. The film is so rarely used that some suppliers don't keep their stock fresh. I think if more people tried it, there would be a lot more people using it.


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## cookiesa (Feb 27, 2008)

Is this similar to the Riso screen?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I use the knife cut film and cut it on my plotter. You apply it to the screen with the adheasion fluid. I use water based inks with it. I am not sure about the direct and indirect emulsion films that adhear with water. I am going to try those films next when I get an exposure set- up.


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

cookiesa said:


> Is this similar to the Riso screen?


Never heard of a Riso screen.


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## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I use the knife cut film and cut it on my plotter. You apply it to the screen with the adheasion fluid. I use water based inks with it. I am not sure about the direct and indirect emulsion films that adhear with water. I am going to try those films next when I get an exposure set- up.


I've tried the knife cut film but I could not make it work. I would apply it according to the instruction but would get too many air bubbles or after drying the stincile would crack with lots of pinholes, but I think I see that my problem was that I wasn't using the adheasion fluid. Thing is, I don't want to buy the fluid and have simular results.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I use laq. thinner to remove the stencil because it is cheap compared to the adheasion fluid. I think laq. thinner would apply the film. You should put a solid surface under the film to keep it tight against the screen. I dont get any bubbles and have no problems other than those two chemicals.


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## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I use laq. thinner to remove the stencil because it is cheap compared to the adheasion fluid. I think laq. thinner would apply the film. You should put a solid surface under the film to keep it tight against the screen. I dont get any bubbles and have no problems other than those two chemicals.


Yeah, I need to keep try different surfaces and expirimenting with it. I'll try the laq. thinner. Thanks!


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

mgarcia16 said:


> Yeah, I need to keep try different surfaces and expirimenting with it. I'll try the laq. thinner. Thanks!


How did you apply the film initially?

I tape it to the screen, flip everything over onto a piece of glass and start dabbing the adheasion fluid on slowly. It works every time.


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## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> How did you apply the film initially?
> 
> I tape it to the screen, flip everything over onto a piece of glass and start dabbing the adheasion fluid on slowly. It works every time.


I've been using the instructions from the Ulano web site "Position the prepared screen squeegee side up, over the film. Saturate a sponge with water. Move the sponge slowly in one stroke over the mesh from the squeegee side. Slightly overlap the strokes until the entire surface is adhered" , but I would either apply too much water or not enough.


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## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

One thing I forgot to mention is I'm using the ULANOCUT AMBA and I see you are using the Ulano STA-SHARP S3S.


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> How did you apply the film initially?
> 
> I tape it to the screen, flip everything over onto a piece of glass and start dabbing the adheasion fluid on slowly. It works every time.


That looks like a difficult weeding job.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

mgarcia16 said:


> I've been using the instructions from the Ulano web site "Position the prepared screen squeegee side up, over the film. Saturate a sponge with water. Move the sponge slowly in one stroke over the mesh from the squeegee side. Slightly overlap the strokes until the entire surface is adhered" , but I would either apply too much water or not enough.


OK...you are using the capillary film.  Forget about solvents for application or removal. Your film is activated by water.

Is it a knife cut film or an diazo emulsion film. Are you burning the screen?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

pshawny said:


> That looks like a difficult weeding job.


It really isnt that bad. Remember it is backwards from weeding a decal. You are removing the large areas of film as the details stay in place. You do have to pay attention but the film weeds very well.


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## mgarcia16 (Dec 31, 2007)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> OK...you are using the capillary film. Forget about solvents for application or removal. Your film is activated by water.
> 
> Is it a knife cut film or an diazo emulsion film. Are you burning the screen?


It's a knife cut film applied with water, but it is not too friendly with detailed layouts and it is tricky to apply. Too much water and I ruin the stencil & creates pinholes, too little water & it gets air pockets & and it cracks. I haven't been able to make a screen with it yet, but I'll keep on trying. I think I'm also going to try the one you are using and the direct emulsion film. I'll call my supplier and see if they could send me some samples.
Thanks


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Make sure the screen is degreased and roughened up a little with a brush.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: Knife Cut Stencil Film*



mgarcia16 said:


> I've tried the knife cut film but I could not make it work. I would apply it according to the instruction but would get too many air bubbles or after drying the stincile would crack with lots of pinholes, but I think I see that my problem was that I wasn't using the adheasion fluid. Thing is, I don't want to buy the fluid and have simular results.


Sta-Sharp S3S Green Knifecut Film is water resistant, so you use blended adhering fluid to attach it to the mesh after cutting and weeding.
Sta-Sharp Knife Cut Film Screen Making Products

UlanoCUT Green is a solvent resistant knife cut film adhered with water.
UlanoCUT Green or Amba water adhering - solvent resisting Knife Cut Films

Alas, UlanoCUT Amba was discontinued in December of 2007. I think you will like UlanoCUT Green better anyway.

Capillary Film is described in a video I have posted on the Ulano web site Support page.
Support Menu of Screen Making Products


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: Knife Cut Stencil Film*



RichardGreaves said:


> Sta-Sharp S3S Green Knifecut Film is water resistant, so you use blended adhering fluid to attach it to the mesh after cutting and peeling.
> Sta-Sharp Knife Cut Film Screen Making Products
> http://www.ulano.com/knifecut/ulanocut.htm


After cutting and weeding. I peel it after it is applied to the screen. I think just a typo Richard.


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## uniwear (Sep 24, 2007)

rhino screen is the product you are referring to and is avaialble in the US and UK. The product works well and is a great alternative to making up a traditional screen no mess no harsh chemicals etc. we recommend you degrease your screen before use or jet the thing like mad. test and see is the answer


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## uniwear (Sep 24, 2007)

mgarcia16 said:


> Anybody used direct stencil film to make their screens? I was looking for an alternative for applying emulsion on screens and came across
> Ulano CDF/QT-50 direct stencil film and the Ulano knife cut stencil film. I bought the knife cut film but did not have much success so I wanted to know of any experiences or pros & cons of the direct stencil film before I bought any.
> Any info. would be greatly appreciated.



try rhinoc screen the no fuss way to make a screen


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*RhinoScreen Dry Laser Printed Stencil Film*

Gordon is suggesting the new laser printed stencil material system from RhinoTech and Neenah 
Paper called *RhinoScreen Dry Stencil Film*. No liquid chemicals or water are used to adhere the stencil to the mesh. You do need a laser printer and a heat press - it doesn't transfer dependably with a hand iron.

You first transfer the laser toner print to a special Neenah Paper film with a heat press, then transfer the image to your screen mesh with a heat press for 60 seconds at 315°F using heavy pressure. 

Procedure steps photos and pricing
RhinoTech, Inc. - RhinoScreen Dry Stencil Film


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## craftysansan (Apr 3, 2011)

try vinyl


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## craftysansan (Apr 3, 2011)

Ulano Green cuts easy i have used it on my cricut


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

I'm trying to find Ulanocut Green in smaller widths than 40 inches. Anybody know of a supplier that has 24" or 30" wide?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Ulanocut Green custom widths*



Decal_Designs said:


> I'm trying to find Ulanocut Green in smaller widths than 40 inches.
> 
> Anybody know of a supplier that has 24" or 30" wide?



_The factory sizes for Ulanocut Green are:_
UC213 40" X 300"
UC313 44" X 300"
UC513 52" X 300"
UlanoCUT Green water adhering - solvent resisting Knife Cut Film


52" cut in half is 21", but you need 24".

Contact the Ulano factory advice on who they MIGHT cut smaller widths for because you want to reduce waste.

Exact size, custom cut sheets gets you the freshest, flattest, factory cut film possible and may work for your need.

Ulano Corporation NY
110 3rd Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11217 USA
800-221-0616
T: +718-237-4700
F: +718-802-1119 
[email protected]


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

Thank you Greaves

21" would work on the plotter too, but it would be a lot more convienient if I didn't have to cut down a huge roll. Shipping costs would be a lot less too if they offered a 24" width, which would suit almost everybody making t-shirts with the stuff. But I will call Ulano and ask more about the custom cut sheets.

I'm looking into this more, because I was trying my hand at using Oracal 651 sign vinyl for short runs instead of emulsion. The big drawback for me using sign vinyl is that you can't do any kind of press wash during a wet on wet run, and after a while the ink build up on the 2nd, 3rd etc screens starts to mess with quality. 651 is fine for single color runs of maybe a 100 or less, but multi-color is not fun at all.

Press wash can be used on Ulanocut Green right? It would also make color changes easier.
Also, am I correct in assuming the cut is mirrored and the Ulanocut is applied shirt side?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Decal_Designs said:


> Press wash can be used on Ulanocut Green right? It would also make color changes easier.
> 
> Also, am I correct in assuming the cut is mirrored and the Ulanocut is applied shirt side?


I'm sure there is a perfect size and amount you would like - but you have to compete with the 75+ years experience Ulano has making films.

60 seconds with a hack saw and a 52" roll turns into 2 21" rolls.

Consider custom cut sheets. You only have to order 50 sheets and it comes direct from the factory.

*Cleanup*
UlanoCUT Green is a solvent resistant knife cut film adhered with water so you want to use solvent based inks and cleanup chemicals. Water will reclaim the mesh.

*Cutting*
I assume solvents would attack your vinyl adhesive. Unlike vinyl film, you cut Ulanocut Green "right reading", weed, adhere to wet mesh and peel the backing once it has dried & adhered.

You want to apply *ALL stencils* to the "shirt side" (bottom) of the screen - NEVER on the ink side.


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

RichardGreaves said:


> ...*Cutting*
> I assume solvents would attack your vinyl adhesive. Unlike vinyl film, you cut Ulanocut Green "right reading", weed, adhere to wet mesh and peel the backing once it has dried & adhered.
> 
> You want to apply *ALL stencils* to the "shirt side" (bottom) of the screen - NEVER on the ink side.


Cut Right Reading, Gotcha. Glad I asked. The instructions on the Ulano site were not clear on that. Thanks!


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Knife cut stencil film cutting instructions*



Decal_Designs said:


> The instructions on the Ulano site were not clear on that.


You would only make that mistake once.


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## Zacharyallott (Jul 8, 2012)

Recently got some Ulano Sta-Sharp S3S, I'm having trouble adhering it to the screen. I'm using a Lacquer Thinner rather then the Ulano Adhering liquid, and following the directions, passing over the screen with the thinner with a lightly soaked rag etc. but the Sta-Sharp just isn't bonding onto the screen. Is it possible that my mesh count is too small? Or that I might have to degrease/clean my screen more? Or possibly that my Lacquer Thinner is fast evaporating enough?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Adhering Ulano Sta-Sharp S3S knife cut film*



Zacharyallott said:


> Recently got some Ulano Sta-Sharp S3S, I'm having trouble adhering it to the screen.
> 
> I'm using a Lacquer Thinner rather then the Ulano Adhering liquid, and following the directions, passing over the screen with the thinner with a lightly soaked rag etc. but the Sta-Sharp just isn't bonding onto the screen.
> 
> ...


*Adhering Of Stencil Film*s
*ALL *adhering of *ALL *films, requires the temporary dissolving of the film, (not so much that it actually leaves the coating, but softens it) then, when the solvent evaporates, the film is bonded to the mesh. 

This is also how you dissolve your knife cut stencil and reclaim the mesh when you don't want the design anymore.

The degree of softening, determines the amount of film that will embed itself in the mesh.

How you press on the film will influence the penetration of the film into the mesh.

If the film gets very soft, the film can penetrate and anchor deeper in the mesh.

*Ulano Adhering liquid* is a specific blend of mystery solvents Ulano doesn't want you to know the formula to. The materials and rules of conduct in a shop have changed progressively since Joe Ulano invented Sta-Sharp in the 1940s. As the raw materials changed, so did the adhering fluid.

*There is no formula for lacquer thinner*
Your can of lacquer thinner is also a mystery product made of unknown products, designed as an additive or cleanup solvent to work on EVERY generic nitro-cellulose lacquer product sold at the hardware, rather than a solvent designed to adhere a specific film to polyester mesh. 

I know you wanted to save money or perhaps someone clever suggested you use something other than what the instructions told you. You're looking for any solution, but the advice you got isn't working.

Sounds like your lacquer thinner isn't softening the film *or *it could be cross-linking the film and now it won't dissolve and won't stick.

*Got Stale?*
Yes, perhaps you got stale film, but no one can determine if is still usable until it is tested with the solvent it was designed to work with.

*Mesh*
You didn't tell us what mesh you used but, the film doesn't know which mesh you are adhering it to. It will stick to any mesh. There is more surface area on higher mesh counts, but I think that's a distraction because you say it isn't sticking.

*Clean, Dry Mesh*
To check if your mesh is clean, *pour *water on the mesh and see if it forms a smooooooooth sheet of water across the mesh. If the water sheets, it's clean.

If you're using a commercial bathroom cleaner, they add a nice smell (that lovely fresh lemon scent). That's an oil, left on the mesh. Oil is not what you want on your mesh before adhering film.

Always use the recommended chemical, then start experimenting with alternatives so you can compare them to establishment products everybody knows works.


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## Zacharyallott (Jul 8, 2012)

*Re: Adhering Ulano Sta-Sharp S3S knife cut film*

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.


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