# Using vinyl for stencils and glass etching



## Cutting_Edge (Jun 30, 2006)

*Evening*

*Using vinyl for stencils and glass etching......this is cool!!!*

*Just did pilsner glasses and beer mugs....boy, the guys are loving these!!*

*Etched mirror coasters......*

*You folks have to try this....Armor Etch is easy stuff to work with and the worst part is trying to find the glasses that are appropriate for it.*
*Dollar Stores are great for wine glasses and found some great beer mugs.....*

*Margaret*


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## gerry (Oct 4, 2006)

Good for you ... I paint 1 shot sign enamel into them before you take the mask off for a good, durable colour effect.
...cheers...
-g-


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## cervantez (Mar 22, 2008)

going to try this what type of vinyl? seems it might be kind of tough getting off glass. just wondering thanks


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## dim116 (Nov 27, 2006)

I'm interested in this. Can you give more information on this process with the armour etch.
Put up some pictures if you can.

Lar


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Its very simple cut your stencil,, what ever you want to be etched, have that weeded out,, stick on without creases or bubbles on to what you want, etched, apply the etching cream follow directions,, and take the vinyl off,, and your done,, 

You can also use vinyl for screen printing,, apply it to the screen and ink away,,,,

sandy jo


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

A decent cutter and some vinyl can open up other avenues of decorations.

If you're doing some intricate designs on glasses it might be easier to weed the design after you stick the vinyl on the glass.


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## Cutting_Edge (Jun 30, 2006)

cervantez said:


> going to try this what type of vinyl? seems it might be kind of tough getting off glass. just wondering thanks


I use what ever vinyl I have laying around.....
After applying the Armor Etch and I let it sit around 8 minutes....I wash it off w/ quite warm water......the water helps to take the vinyl off and have never had a problem getting what ever is left off the glass......

Margaret
Cutting Edge


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

its not hard, it is ok,, because of the water wash,,
sandyjo


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

etching cream is great, but try the etching liquid.

it's even more spectacular when used on wine bottles, for example.


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

etching liquid? I'm sure you could do some nice circular designs.
However please make sure you wear some safety glasses.


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## Monte Carlo (Jul 11, 2006)

Where do you get the paste or liquid?


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

you can get etching cream at any craft store,, 
ben franklin, micheals,jo ann fabric,
SAndy jo


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

EtchAll has the cream and the liquid, also.
i don't know the adress, sorry, tru to google
good luck!

ino, you are right about safety precautions


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## AzEtchWorks (Oct 4, 2009)

I was going through old threads and ran across this one. I have been using vinyl to etch glass for a few years now, works great. Lat year I ventured into sublimation. and now I have people asking about screen printed t-shirts... I have been researching this and have spent some time in a shirt shop helping out so I understand the whole process but am curious about using the vinyl masks for the screens... That is an amazing idea and would save a ton on costs of emulsions, red out's and chemicals for cleaning the screens not to mention the cost of the ink and vellum to print the image prior to exposing it. 

Do you now anyone who uses the vinyl masks for screen printing? I am just curious if you would apply the vinyl to the top or bottom of the screen and if the residues from the ink will loosen the vinyl from the screen. 

Thanks so much... 
Kenna Conover
Az Etch Works


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## essen48183 (Sep 25, 2009)

I take regular 24" wide sign vinyl cut (mirrored) and weeded and mask applied and backing removed and lay it on the platen where I want it to print. I chuck a 280 screen in the press and spray some tack on the shirt side (dye sub tack from conde... just because I had it laying around and my first try the vinyl fell off of a 110 screen that was not sprayed) I press the screen down on it and squeegee it. I sometimes print another one not mirrored with the design enlarged 1/8 to 1/4and eyeball it to the top of the screen to aid in easier cleanup. It is quick for a one color order without alot of detail. I've not done it for orders over 30 - but it had no signs of giving up on that order of 30.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

cut the vinyl mirrored, apply it on the back of the screen.
good for 30-40 pieces of one colour design, one pass, not much detailes.


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## AzEtchWorks (Oct 4, 2009)

essen48183 said:


> I take regular 24" wide sign vinyl cut (mirrored) and weeded and mask applied and backing removed and lay it on the platen where I want it to print. I chuck a 280 screen in the press and spray some tack on the shirt side (dye sub tack from conde... just because I had it laying around and my first try the vinyl fell off of a 110 screen that was not sprayed) I press the screen down on it and squeegee it. I sometimes print another one not mirrored with the design enlarged 1/8 to 1/4and eyeball it to the top of the screen to aid in easier cleanup. It is quick for a one color order without alot of detail. I've not done it for orders over 30 - but it had no signs of giving up on that order of 30.



It has been several months since I have posted this and I greatly appreciate your response... I purchased the screen printing equipment about a month ago, and it's all set up in the shop now.. I had a few orders for screen printing prior to the equipment arriving so to save some time I did the vinyl mask thing as you had mentioned.. 
However,,, it didn't have the results I had hoped for. I noticed that I did forget the mention of using the pro spray from conde (that is where I get all my sublimation supplies from)... after a couple of shirts, the image stated to get fuzzy around the edges so I cleaned the back of the screen... and the insides of the vinyl letters came loose so I ended up having to burn screens.... 

1. would the off contact have caused the fuzzy appearance to start with? 
2. would the pro spray have helped it from coming loose with the screen clean that I used on the back to clean it? 

Thanks so much for any advice on this... I can't wait for this to become second nature to me like the sublimation has over time.... 

Kenna Conover


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## essen48183 (Sep 25, 2009)

I don't think I've had fuzzy shirt images ever when doing this. I can't be sure as to why. If I had to guess, I'd check squeegee angle also as a suspect. maybe you are forcing too much ink in with too low of an angle (more than the well formed by the stencil) in and it is squirting out the sides? I also flood stroke a little less when doing these... by habit... maybe that is why?

You can't do fine details with it, in the case where there are small letters and stuff, the spray is to assist that from falling off. Any cleaners or rubbing on the back of the screen would be a no-no. The ink breaks down the adhesive already without rubbing it. That is why there is a limit of about 30 shirts, 50 if you are real fast and there aren't small details. 

to be perfectly honest... In the last few months, I haven't done this. I upgraded my exposure unit and got a dip tank, so now it is quicker just to burn and clean a screen.


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## catdog (Nov 26, 2010)

I think the us of vinyl on the screen for printing those 3 youth small shirts that need the print resized is a great thought. I'll try this next time.


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## artie11236 (Feb 25, 2011)

New to this forum, so HELLO ALL.
I etch glass by sand blasting, find it better than the chemical also able to do plastics.
Use a Silhouette SD cutter to cut stencils and use contact paper, it is cheap (less then $200.00).
Bought a air eraser from Harbor Freight Tools cost $19.00, use sand blast material from Michaels hobby store cost approx., $8.00, bought a compressor from pawn shop for $75.00 (Home depot has them on sale often for about $70.00), made a cabinet from a large plastic container (56 gal.) from Home Depot, cut a square in top and taped a piece of glass (10X12 from Home Depot less than $2.00), cut hole in side of container and put a sleeve from a sweat shirt in it too keep material inside. Fairly reasonable in costs to do work. Find it so much better than chemical. Do wine bottles, glasses, plastic photo frames, mirrors the versatility is endless.


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## rayas55 (Nov 1, 2009)

artie11236 said:


> New to this forum, so HELLO ALL.
> I etch glass by sand blasting, find it better than the chemical also able to do plastics.
> Use a Silhouette SD cutter to cut stencils and use contact paper, it is cheap (less then $200.00).
> Bought a air eraser from Harbor Freight Tools cost $19.00, use sand blast material from Michaels hobby store cost approx., $8.00, bought a compressor from pawn shop for $75.00 (Home depot has them on sale often for about $70.00), made a cabinet from a large plastic container (56 gal.) from Home Depot, cut a square in top and taped a piece of glass (10X12 from Home Depot less than $2.00), cut hole in side of container and put a sleeve from a sweat shirt in it too keep material inside. Fairly reasonable in costs to do work. Find it so much better than chemical. Do wine bottles, glasses, plastic photo frames, mirrors the versatility is endless.


Hello,
What size compressor did you buy? I saw some you tube videos on how to make the cabinet and some of them mentioned putting a weather strip around the door of the cabinet, is the weather strip really needed? 
Thank you


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