# DIY Water-based Palette Adhesive



## mkochsch (May 22, 2007)

I've been experimenting at making my own homemade do it yourself palette adhesive for screen printing.

Mix:
- 1 part Weldbond Glue (polyvinyl acetate or PVAc white glue) to,
- 1 part "RV" or "plumber's" Antifreeze (i.e. non-toxic propylene glycol)
Note: DO NOT use car radiator antifreeze which is ethylene glycol and is considered toxic.

Apply a thin coat to a palette using a brush or roller. Allow to evaporate. Drying can be sped up with heat gun, hair dryer, or flash cure. "Dry" in this case means "tacky" and not wet or dry really. Because of the propylene glycol the solution will not set but will remain tacky for a long time. Cleans up with water. Can be replenished once or twice by wiping or spraying with water.

Alternative mixes:

Less tacky mix:
2 parts Weldbond
1 part Propylene Glycol

More tacky mix:
1 part Weldbond
2 parts Propylene Glycol


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## ole Jobe (Jun 16, 2009)

Seems like a hassle when you can get a gallon of tek-bond for about 20 bucks that will last forever. i have been using for about two years and bucket is still almost full. God Bless.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

I agree. I got a pint of the pro-bond to try and I can see it lasting a very long time. 12 bucks or so. The more I print on it, the better it sticks. 

I would be afraid of chemicals in the anti-freeze or weldbond getting on my shirts, or leaving an allergic surface for customers.


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## mkochsch (May 22, 2007)

A hassle for some this may very well be true. However, the cheapest I can get palette adhesive where I live (way up north) is about $30 a pint plus tax. And a pint is more than I need in a year. I pull fine art prints and tees.
If you read an MSDS on water-based palette adhesives it's only composed of the two chemicals I mentioned, repackaged and sold to screen printers as "palette adhesive". So, you're not getting any more or less VOCs (which are very low to start with) when you mix your own. If you want to play it really safe you can use food grade propylene glycol and do one better. In the spirit of DIY (in which this post was made) one can make small amounts from existing sources for less than half cost of buying more than one needs. Not for everybody, but maybe for those who don't want to be beholden to a screen printing supplier and who are interested in a fundamental understanding of materials they use.
~m


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Thanks Michael. I'm sure many people will find your post rewarding. I'm going to check the price of Tek-bond, and Pro-bond and see what they go for here in NJ. 

I haven't found too many places, and the one supplier I do have is a little expensive. 

I like finding do it yourself methods. 

Do you have any ideals for Screen Wash and Dehazers?


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## mrvixx (Jan 13, 2009)

I always wondered if elmers school glue and water would work


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## mkochsch (May 22, 2007)

For cleaning screens I'm a big fan of d-limonene. It can be found as the primary constituent in products like CitraSolv, Orange TKO (which I mop my floors with incidentally) and Goo Gone. It's made from orange peels. It's by far the lesser of many evils when compared to petroleum-based solvents. I don't really trust odourless mineral spirits (OMS), it's still evaporates, you just can't smell it. I wear gloves when I use d-limonene as it can quickly strip all the oils off your hands and dry out skin and finger tips, and in my climate that equals cracked skin.


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## mkochsch (May 22, 2007)

mrvixx said:


> I always wondered if elmers school glue and water would work


The problem with just watering glue down is that it will eventually dry hard, thin but hard. You want sticky. The P.Glycol acts as a retarder in the glue, once the water flashes off.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Good too know.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 16, 2010)

mkochsch said:


> A hassle for some this may very well be true. However, the cheapest I can get palette adhesive where I live (way up north) is about $30 a pint plus tax. And a pint is more than I need in a year. I pull fine art prints and tees.
> If you read an MSDS on water-based palette adhesives it's only composed of the two chemicals I mentioned, repackaged and sold to screen printers as "palette adhesive". So, you're not getting any more or less VOCs (which are very low to start with) when you mix your own. If you want to play it really safe you can use food grade propylene glycol and do one better. In the spirit of DIY (in which this post was made) one can make small amounts from existing sources for less than half cost of buying more than one needs. Not for everybody, but maybe for those who don't want to be beholden to a screen printing supplier and who are interested in a fundamental understanding of materials they use.
> ~m


 
I am a big DIY'er and definitely understand the fun and usefulness of making the things you use. So don't take me the wrong way. I think it is cool, but just prefer to buy some things.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

So what's the benefit of Orange TKO? It looks like it's expensive too. Do you use it cause it's less harmful? Also, does it work as a DeHazer or Screen Cleaner?


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## Gilligan (Dec 11, 2009)

Funny I was just thinking about this last night when I was in my shop and I looked at my bottle of watered down textac. Good to know what is in it, the wife will be pleased.

I'm always interested in what alternatives are out there for cleaning screens and such. It's not like screen printing companies hire chemist to do this work... I'm sure they are mostly just re-purposing other chemical concoctions. I know a buddy of mine gets barrels of a "simple green" type of concentrate for his company to wash parts and such. He will give me gallon that will last me forever he said. If I know what chemicals are in these products I can probably find them available from guys like this for basically free since they buy such large quantities of it. Sometimes, you have to love the oil field.


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## Taophyc (Aug 30, 2021)

mkochsch said:


> I've been experimenting at making my own homemade do it yourself palette adhesive for screen printing.
> 
> Mix:
> 
> ...


This is really helpful here in Nigeria where such finished products is not allowed to be imported. Thanks


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