# The Most Ingenius Screen Stretching Method



## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

This has got to be the best DIY stretcher and the most ingenious screen stretching method. It is the method "discovered" by *John Bernardino (or JCBernardino* here at TSF).

[MEDIA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anUijycx60M&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/MEDIA]
A reasonably thick layer of Bondy, a local brand of contact cement which is less viscous than the more popular Rugby brand and does not have the stinking smell of Rugby, is spread across the frame using a flat and hard plastic "spreader". ​ 







​I use a paint stripper spatula which I believe can also be used here. 

After an estimated 10 minutes drying time, the mesh is first adhered on 2 adjoining sides of the frame. A spreader is used to push the mesh against the dried contact cement. 

The 3rd side of the mesh is then clamped onto the stretcher and stretched to the desired tension estimated by the frame's resistance. The spreader is again used to push the mesh against the dried or dry to the touch contact cement for an instant adhesion. The fourth side is stretched and adhered in the same way.
_
I have been using bondy for more than a year now and it has a stronger bonding property than most contact cement._


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

I'm gonna have to give that a try. My own DIY stretcher works, but the setup process is a pain.

My only concern with this is: Does it produce an evenly tensioned screen? The mesh is fixed along 2 sides so can't really be evenly stretched along the outer edges. Only one way to find out!


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I used to do it that way too but instead of a clamping system I use nails to hold the mesh. I really like the idea because the mesh would trear a little in areas with higher tension. These are usually towards the sides. However, I am unable to find nails small enough to hold the mesh properly. 1" finishing nails are too big.

Anyway, as far as I can determine the tension is fairly even. But even if it is not, as maybe measured by a tension meter, I don't think that it really matters unless your printing requirements is for an absolutely even tension. Many of us really do not need that. Most of opur print jobs do not require that. Still, a perfectly even tension would be nice though.

But as you aptly posted "Only one way to find out!". Just one thing, the regular contact cement won't do the job. I also use *"bondy"* for wood or aluminum mesh but I apply the adhesive after the mesh is on the frame and this method requires a longer setting time. The method used by JCBernardino requires only 10 minutes or so for the contact cement to dry.

I have also tried *"sure-bond"* but I prefer bondy. These are the more expensive contact cement and are more viscous than regular contact cement. They also do not have the stinking smell.

I currently use a roller frame to stretch and that too is more painstaking process compared to this so I may dump the roller frame. My next stretching should be a few more months from now.

Good luck and hope you find a suitable contact cement.


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

I've been using cyanoacrylate glue with activator spray for my screens so far. The fumes turn my brains into paste after a while though.


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## colorfinger (Mar 30, 2009)

Nice... Ever thought of using one of those aluminum adjustable frames as a tensioner and then bonding like this? At least you could ensure even tension that way.

Thanks for the tips... gets the brain waving.

Bob ?;O)


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

i use a diamond chase retensionable/roller frame although i used to use a similar method(to the above) as posted in the "poor man's stretcher" thread. As usual, all methods have their pros and cons. The main advantage of this is the cost, ease and simplicity. When stretching multiple frames, this simple method also has a speed benefit.


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## BoydRiver (Aug 12, 2008)

Interesting.
I wonder what name Bondy is sold under in the U.K.
Anybody with any idea's please?


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

Awesome DIY, I'm interested too in to the cement, have you gotten to the point of remeshing any old ones yet? i.e. does the mesh peel off OK, or is it a sanding off kinda adhesive? Anyone have the info on "Bondy"? Didn't see anything close to an adhesive when I googled "bondy cement"
But just so you all know, apparently, Bondy is a city in France. And you can buy cement there. 

FWIW, I finally got into the program of transferring auto mesh to manual statics-- work hardened and tensioned, gotta love it.


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## orion001 (Jul 29, 2009)

BoydRiver said:


> Interesting.
> I wonder what name Bondy is sold under in the U.K.
> Anybody with any idea's please?



bondy is just a brand name for contact cement.


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

orion001 said:


> bondy is just a brand name for contact cement.


Most contact cements (that I've seen, and I work for a company that sells a few) require both surfaces to be coated and allowed to dry before bonding though. I've not seen anything that works the way this Bondy stuff does.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

i also would be interested in where to find this bondy. that does look like an awesome way to do it. love it


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## Gilligan (Dec 11, 2009)

Great find/share as always Angel!


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## orion001 (Jul 29, 2009)

PhilR said:


> Most contact cements (that I've seen, and I work for a company that sells a few) require both surfaces to be coated and allowed to dry before bonding though. I've not seen anything that works the way this Bondy stuff does.



in the instructions on using bondy you should also coat both sides with it.i use a different brand named rugby it has the same instructions to coat both sides then dry. but when we stretch screens we just stretch the mesh over the screen first then apply contact cement then let it dry for a few minutes then remove the excess mesh.


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## happyprint (Sep 29, 2011)

in indonesia we use AICA AIBON glue for re meshing (it's yellow glue) smell strong, even some bum here sniff it to get drunk ,maybe similar with bondy..


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## aishanj (Nov 17, 2011)

this is awesome


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

happyprint said:


> in indonesia we use AICA AIBON glue for re meshing (it's yellow glue) smell strong, even some bum here sniff it to get drunk ,maybe similar with bondy..


That should be contact cement like Rugby brand we have here. Rugby is a little more yellowish. Bondy is also contact cement but with 5% mustard oil as sniffing deterrent. It is also about 80% more expensive than Rugby and is less viscous.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

i found that glue, AICA AIBON, on google but cant find it for sale anywhere. anyone know of where to get it??


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I am not sure about finding AICA AIBON or Bondy for that purpose. These are low cost products that are unlikely to be exported or imported across continents or even just across oceans.

Try look for more expensive contact cement in your area(with low viscosity). Or use screen printing frame adhesives. Some are "specified" for aluminum and wood frames.


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

BroJames said:


> I am not sure about finding AICA AIBON or Bondy for that purpose. These are low cost products that are unlikely to be exported or imported across continents or even just across oceans.
> 
> Try look for more expensive contact cement in your area(with low viscosity). Or use screen printing frame adhesives. Some are "specified" for aluminum and wood frames.


I had a try using "Impact" contact adhesive. It worked, but a few days later the mesh had started pulling from the frame.  Shame, I was hoping for an alternative to cyanoacrylate glue. The fumes from that stuff are horrific.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I cannot use regular contact cement(that goes by the name of "Rugby" locally) indoors. You know by the "fumes" that ist is not good. But even if I put on an industrial gas mask I get teary eyes from the "fumes". However, I have used "Bondy" and "Surebond" a number of times indoor with hardly a problem. I think it is the 5% mustard but it can be for other reasons.

But as I said, "Bondy" is less viscous and more free flowing if you tilt the bottle. They are sold in bottles here. I do not know what _AICA AIBON_ or regular contact cement is made from but Bondy and Surebond are "*DUPONT NEOPRENE (Polychloroprene Polymer) **RUBBERBASED CONTACT CEMENT*".


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I just did some googling and it seems that there is an _AICA AIBON_ in India. They are marked marked 221 and comes in plastic container(*Saya Enterprises* B-9, RAMDUTT ENCLAVE, UTTAM NAGAR, New Delhi - 110059, India). 









Those in Indonesia are marked 601 (LEM PEREKAT SERBA GUNA OR *SYNTHETIC RUBBER ADHESIVES*) and come in cans(below).









Happyprint, can you post a picture of the AICA AIBON you are using?


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

i have looked everywhere here in the us and cant find any kind of glue similar to this. if anyone has any kind of glue that they have used for something like this in the us please let me know.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

BroJames said:


> I am not sure about finding AICA AIBON or Bondy for that purpose. These are low cost products that are unlikely to be exported or imported across continents or even just across oceans.
> 
> Try look for more expensive contact cement in your area(with low viscosity). Or use screen printing frame adhesives. Some are "specified" for aluminum and wood frames.


aww, i just seen your post angel. i will have to look into finding this kind of glue. i am not familiar with any kind of glue like this. i am guessing for this method of stretching the screens you would need a glue that dries instantly like a contact cement. i dont know, any suggestions would be awesome.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

even commercial frame adhesives do not dry immediately. You have to let dry before removing the stretcher.


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## happyprint (Sep 29, 2011)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

small AICA AIBON..price about 1 USD..i can glue for 4 screen frame..

today i see print shop use this to glue for alumunium frame also..


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I think positive alternatives would be liquid nails, DAP weld wood, 3M Fastbond. Are screen printing frame adhesives expensive in the US?


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

BroJames said:


> even commercial frame adhesives do not dry immediately. You have to let dry before removing the stretcher.


That's the reason I am curious about the bondy. It looks like it dries immediately which you would need for this method, right?


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

211chucky said:


> That's the reason I am curious about the bondy. It looks like it dries immediately which you would need for this method, right?


Contact adhesives generally don't dry that fast. I'm curious as to just how high the end tension achieved in the video actually was. I'm spoiled with having a Newman frame for stretching and I know that the contact adhesive I used wasn't strong enough for a really high tension screen.

To be honest if you need fast drying, very strong adhesive then I'd suggest looking for some variety of "Mitre Bond". This is a form of cyanoacrylate superglue aimed at woodworkers for making fast wood joints.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

or go with frame adhesives. Can you remove Mitre Bond for remeshing??


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

BroJames said:


> or go with frame adhesives. Can you remove Mitre Bond for remeshing??


Yeah fairly easily. It leaves a smooth hard residue which can be sanded down.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Specifically, I mean does Mitre Bond reacts to mineral spirits?


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

BroJames said:


> Specifically, I mean does Mitre Bond reacts to mineral spirits?


Not that I've noticed.


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## 34Ford (Mar 19, 2010)

I wonder if this would work?


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

If the claims on the label is true then it should work. I think it is worth trying. Frame adhesives themselves are contact cement.


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## PhilR (May 3, 2011)

Or maybe something like this:









This is an adhesive designed for repairing wetsuits and watersports gear.

The frame adhesive I recently bought is a 2-part formula, and cures to a very flexible, strong film. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the same stuff.


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