# Things I have learned about the different types of heat transfers. I'd like to share



## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Hi there. I am very new to transfers but I have been part of the forums for a few months. Basically I have been experimenting with things and I want to share with others. Hopefully I can make this an on-going thread and maybe help others learn too.

I have no idea how this will turn out. So Im not promoting or demoting any products. I guess we will find out together how this all works. 

First I'd like to thank Chani for helping answer about a million questions for me.

I'd also like to thank Josh Ellsworth from Imprintables Warehouse for sending me samples of the IW INKJET for DARKS, the Eco film, Cut II, Suede (flock), Megatallic, Reflect, Neon and more. This guy is extremely nice and it was a very pleasant experience contacting him/them.


*Avery Inkjet Transfers
*I knew this wasnt my best option but I had just gotten my heatpress and I wanted to know how it worked. I happened to have some Avery Inkjet Transfers laying around so I used them.

They did not transfer solid. It was difficut to guess the heat temp and whether or not it was hot/cold peel due to lack of instructions on the package. I have nothing more to say than that about this transfer. Here are some pictures. This is after 1-2 washes but it hasnt changed at all from when i first pressed it.
*Grease got on the shirt so ignore that ugly black smudge on there.

Here are the results:



























*
Jet Pro Sofstretch
*I watched this video by Lou on the Sofstretch and figured that was a good option. 
I like this material. I know we've all seen it in action but I figured I would put it in here to show anyways. I will be doing wash tests to show it's lifespan.
So far it has been washed once and other than a slight amount of runniness (only on the orange), it looks good. Im not even sure anyone would notice it but me - since i've spent so much time with it.

Results:









*
Solid Black JetPro Sofstretch
*I decided to do a solid black image with JPSS. I dont like how it came out. This photo has a black shirt next to the image to show you what solid black looks like compared to the image I pressed. As you can see it is slightly faint. Not as bold as I would have liked it to be.
What I learned - if I do any one color solids, to use vinyl (or something else I havent tried yet.. Possibly this "plasticol" people talk about).

Image:










*JPSS vs IW inkjet for DARKS
*I know comparing JPSS to a DARK transfer doesnt make sense. But I dont mean it as in they are battling. I mean it as "How IW inkjet looks... (using jpss to compare it with)." Hopefully this will make sense after a few washes.

One thing about the IW INKJET for DARKS.. I grabbed this stuff and stretch it.. Pulled like a bat outta hell... Ok.. not that hard.. but I pulled it out to stretch it... While I was pulling you could see some "cracks" but as soon as you let go, it reformed. So it doesnt actually BREAK.. but it does stretch. I liked how the "pull" test went. Basically after I let go, it went back to how it was.

the JPSS:









The IW inkjet for DARKS:









A side shot of IW inkjet for DARKS:




































* Im really wondering how this will hold up after washing. I will be updating this to show everyone.
** Something i learned with the last image. Always let your image bleed further than where your plotter will be cutting. I wound up with white edges!! Duh...

*MEGAtallic*
oh what fun stuff! This is shiny/glittery vinyl. Would be very good for girl's designs. It was easy to work with and easy to weed. I am unsure how it will hold up to washing but I am eager to find out.

*I cut very thin lines so I am wondering how the wash will hold up considering this factor. I would think if you have thinner lines it would detach easier from the garment. I guess we will find out.
** Something I learned - It takes a LONG time to weed something with so many cuts. Haha.






























*SPECTRA SUPER SUEDE (formerly flock)
*This is some fun stuff too! First off, Im not a huge fan of green.. but this green is beautiful. The suede feel is nice. I want to cuddle up in it. This was very easy to work with. I had no issues at all.
When I weeded it, the mylar backing had some residue of flockiness on it. I wondered if that would stick to the shirt when I pressed it. The answer is no. I really like this stuff. It feels nice and it's thick.. It does it's job, but doesnt buldge out of the garment. I tried to take shots to show that.

Shots -


















* I hope this holds up to the wash. I really like it.


*JPSS on BLACK??
*So, instead of JUST trying to put images on a shirt, I am also trying to figure out ways to get artsy with this process. I wondered what would happen if you were to print on JPSS and press it to a garment. I knew it wouldnt be opaque, but maybe it would give a really cool ghosting effect.

What I gathered is, you CAN see a ghosting effect. I dont know how this will hold up in the wash. It could just be the waxy stuff from the paper and it could completely disappear with one wash. Who knows. But we'll find out soon enough!

This image was a very light blue that was printed and cut from JPSS:









Side angle:










After looking at this I wondered if I had used to light of a color of ink. I decided to print some DARKER colors and see how those worked out.

The 3 boxes on the left were HOT PEELED... the 3 boxes on the right were COLD PEELED:


















And here is the colors I used in illustrator:










---
Sorry if my writing is off. I am tired and eager to go sit down with my girl and watch some TV before sleepy time.
I hope people understand what I was trying to do with each section and hopefully this will teach us all something. Maybe someone has wondered what happens if you put JPSS on DARK but didnt want to waste the transfer/garment.

Either way, I will update this again once I wash.

If you have any questions about my ramblings feel free to ask. I will clear it up. haha.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

This was a great informative post Doug. Thanks for even showing people what it looks like if you use a regular transfer on a black shirt. One question: I noticed on the IW for darks that in one shot it looks faded and in another it looks quite brite, what was it closer to?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

Great post, Doug!  Thank you for posting this!

I wouldn't worry too much about the Megatallic. It should stay on wash after wash. The only time people really seem to have an issue with vinly peeling is if it comes to any sharp points, but even then, I have shirts that have been washed over and over and over with sharp points and I haven't had any problems with them (My Circle of Stars design, for instance).

Actually, I'm kinda jealous...you stole my thread idea!  But you did things that I never would have thought of (JPSS on darks).

Thank you again!


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

One thing I juste rememberd to ask: Did you hand cut the darks or contour cut?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

He contour cut them on his Graphtec CraftROBO Pro. 

He was finally able to get it working with Specialty's help. I'd all but given up on it.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

very nice informative post Doug


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## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

What a bunch of great stuff thank you very much and it does kinda help me out with the question on the jpss on other colored shirts. I am still going to do some of my own experaments on other light shirts and once I do I will post them in here instad of the other thread that I have started!


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



> One question: I noticed on the IW for darks that in one shot it looks faded and in another it looks quite brite, what was it closer to?


I assume you refer to the Angel blue guy. I guess it would be closer to the "faded" one. But to the transfer's respect, it came out of the printer like that. I am trying to figure out how to make the printer print as bright and brilliant as the images on my screen. It prints kind of dull and I dont like it! ha.



> He contour cut them on his Graphtec CraftROBO Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Chani is right. I did cut it with the Graphtex CraftRobo Pro. 
I think Specialty-Graphics, Graphtec and my patience is what got this machine going!

I did, however, cut the JPSS squares that went on the black with scissors.  sc


I'm glad people like the post. I was worried my wild rambling style of writing would confuse people. ha. I will do a wash tonight and some more pictures Within the next 24 hourish


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

Excellent post! Very informative!

How do you like the Craft ROBOPro?

Melissa


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## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

One ? About The Cutters, After You Use The Cutter To Cut The Image Out Say Lettering Do You Stll Have To Line Them Up Like If You Cut Them Out By Hand, And When You Peel Yhe Backing Off (for Darks)?


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

Oh yeah, just wanted to give you a little food for thought... In your test with the black design on JPSS: I'm thinking that the problem with the ink not being super dark (and comparable with the darkness of the black shirt) is probably the ink you're using, and not the JPSS. Have you considered this as a possibility?

What ink are you using? Durabrite?

I've noticed that the Durabrite black, is not a deep, rich black -- and for that very reason I call it a "faux black". When I switched to heat transfer ink and refillable carts, I instantly noticed a BIG difference in the density of the black -- it is WAY deeper and richer than the Durabrite...

Melissa


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



dragonfly0006 said:


> One ? About The Cutters, After You Use The Cutter To Cut The Image Out Say Lettering Do You Stll Have To Line Them Up Like If You Cut Them Out By Hand, And When You Peel Yhe Backing Off (for Darks)?


Some people use "magic mask" you would put your trasnfer on a sheet of magic mask, then put it in your plotter, cut the lines, weed away the excess transfer, and then lay the whole magic mask or whatever you use, on the heatpress.

* Personally, I got some magic mask and I dislike it so far. I pressed one garment with it, and it curled up from the heat and now that it's slightly, very slighty, curved the CraftRobo Pro (cutter) wont read registration marks on it. It needs to be totally flat to read them.

I will be doing more tests with Magic Mask but so far for me its a thumbs WAY DOWN!

Other users like Chani love Magic Mask. So, it's all in how you work it I suppose.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



angelic_endeavor said:


> Oh yeah, just wanted to give you a little food for thought... In your test with the black design on JPSS: I'm thinking that the problem with the ink not being super dark (and comparable with the darkness of the black shirt) is probably the ink you're using, and not the JPSS. Have you considered this as a possibility?
> 
> What ink are you using? Durabrite?
> 
> ...


I am using Durabrite. Sucks because everyone recommended it, and once I got it, now it's not the recommendable thing! haha.

So what exactly would I need to get? I have an Epson CX7400.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Wow, I have used Avery paper, and my results printed exactly the same as Ironall light and the Jetpro sofstretch. 

The problem with Avery is not how it transfers, but how it holds up in the wash later on and the heavy hand it has that doesn't go away.

I've printed black on my Jetprosofstretch and have gotten darker than that example, but never a true black. I think it is because this ink is designed for photography use, and the white shirts with the weave tend to "pale" the black. When I look at the designs, I can see the 'white' between the weaves coming through, diluting the black. I use Durabrite ink, but I am a lucky one - I don't have any of the color shifting or problems with the black that I read about and know some of our friends went through.

I absolutely love the photos of the vinyls. If there was ever a thread to show me how nice they look this one is it. And Doug, I know you are new to your cutter and to the vinyls. It wouldn't mean as much seeing the results if they were coming from a pro. You inspire other newbs to vinyl to think it is possible to get beautiful results right from the beginning.

For that, I thank you.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



AdamnSmith said:


> I am using Durabrite. Sucks because everyone recommended it, and once I got it, now it's not the recommendable thing! haha.


LOL... I know EXACTLY what you mean. I went from using HP Photosmart printer to the Epson C88+ because Epsons use pigment ink, and that's what I was told was needed for doing shirts. Then the colors started to shift after being pressed -- ex: what was gray when printed, turned olive green after being pressed! I made the switch to refillable carts (instead of a CIS because I don't do enough printing and would have problems with clogging) and heat transfer ink, AND I AM SO GLAD I DID! Refillable carts were from inkjetcarts.us and heat transfer ink was from inksupply.com. Of course after I spent $80 on the ink from inksupply.com, now inkjetcarts.us offers THE VERY SAME INK, FROM THE SAME MFR. (according to them) for $46! I went to their site, and they do have a set of refillable carts, ink, etc. as a set for your printer. Here's the link: Refillable inkjet cartridge, refillable ink cartridges, ultrachrome printer inks

For only $53 you'll have the carts and enough ink, that you'll save over $400 compared to the Durabrite, AND you'll love the deep black. Much darker than Durabrite.

Anyway, sorry if I am giving you too much food for thought!  I just KNEW when I saw the photo that you were using Durabrite... their black really sucks.

Oh yeah, to finish my story: after getting the new carts and ink, now everyone is testing on JPSS and finding out that dye ink works OK with that after all! Uuuuugghhh! You mean I spent all that money for the printer, the Durabrite ink, the refill carts AND the heat transfer ink, and I could've stayed with the HP printer all along?!? LOL! Acccckkkk!

Melissa

.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



angelic_endeavor said:


> Oh yeah, to finish my story: after getting the new carts and ink, now everyone is testing on JPSS and finding out that dye ink works OK with that after all! Uuuuugghhh! You mean I spent all that money for the printer, the Durabrite ink, the refill carts AND the heat transfer ink, and I could've stayed with the HP printer all along?!? LOL! Acccckkkk! Melissa.


Haha, poor Melissa. None of us knew, but you've been in this position before. I think we both just ordered Ironall light when Jetpro arrived on the scene. I still have my stash of Ironall light.

The Claria ink is touted as "water resistant" ink. It has worked on Conde paper for Jan/jberte without fading.

I tried Canon regular dye ink with JetproSS, water soluable ink, and it did not fade after two washes now, no changes.

Canon dye ink will not last if someone wants to use Ironall dark or similar paper, there will still be an issue.

Now, Ivancuriel is going to test Ironall Dark with Claria ink and wash it a bunch of times.

I know you already have the carts, but it'll just be good to know for the sake of knowing, and who knows if one day we will move up in printer size, it would be nice to know if the Claria is a "wonder" "do all" kind of water resistant ink that will eliminate the need to switch to pigments in the 1400's etc.

Ivan is now using Claria compatible bulk inks and he is having color shifting, he's working on that, but so far no fade issues.

Thanks for all you do with the re-fill carts. It's great info and a great savings for everyone to learn about. Have a nice weekend.


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## Jerome Jumpoff (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



Girlzndollz said:


> Haha, poor Melissa. None of us knew, but you've been in this position before. I think we both just ordered Ironall light when Jetpro arrived on the scene. I still have my stash of Ironall light.
> 
> The Claria ink is touted as "water resistant" ink. It has worked on Conde paper for Jan/jberte without fading.
> 
> ...


Im lookin forward to seeing Ivans post on Claria inks with Ironall transfers for darks.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

One thing to remember is that times change. For the most part, Pigment WAS the way to go, maybe with the new papers that is changing.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

PART II

I washed the shirts and I am here to update you all. My girl washed these with cold cold, with some detergent. Then I dried them just as I would my clothes... [Im a guy, so i just put it to 55 mins and call it a day].. There were some towels in the dryer with the shirts.


*Avery Inkjet Transfer
*Nothing really changed with this one. I would like to say that last time I left out the fact that when I tried the "stretch out the image" tactic on the garment, this trasnfer broke and cracked. I did it so much while demonstrating to people that it's cracked in every place it can. But that's old news.

Here are pics:



















*JetPro Sofstretch
*No change in this one. It didnt run, it didnt appear to have faded. I'd say it's right where it was the last time we checked.

Images:



















*Solid Black JetPro Sofstretch
*I really didnt notice a difference with this either. really the only reason I included it to begin with was to say I wouldve used a different method for this in the future [vinyl].

Image:










*JPSS vs IW Inkjet for DARKS
*Both of these look the same as when I put them into the wash. I really notice no different after it's first wash. My girlfriend tried picking at one of the transfers [the red Devil guy] and she couldnt pick it off. Not saying if she sat there for an hour that it wouldnt budge. Hmm.. Maybe I will have her try that after the tenth wash or so. She wonders about how they will hold up to wear and tear. I will wear these around on the weekend or after work. I cant really afford to walk around town wearing a shirt with so many designs! people will think im a looney toon.

Here are the pics, so far so good:



























*
MEGAtallic
*Oooh, the fun one. I am impressed. The image is fine. Nothing changed. The thin lines held up well. I just tried to pick at it, and I couldnt get it off. I think it feels nice too. I mean, it's not bulky and awkward. 
Anyways, this is pretty cool it didnt phaze it. I was a little worried. But its fine!

Images:



















*SPECTRA SUPER SUEDE (formerly flock)
*We have a difference. I didn't notice it until my girlfriend pointed it out and she noticed it very quickly. The green of the flock got darker. How much darker? I dont know.. hard to say really. It's definately darker. Its not like pitch black [though some of the pics my seem pretty dark] but it is for sure a few shades darker. Still a very nice material. it held up well in the wash. Picking at it, seems like if I really wanted to I could get a hold on it and possibly YANK it off of there.. but i dont want to try and Im not even sure that would work. Let's get through the wash tests first.

I love it, still feels cozy, still stuck on there really well. Just a few shades darker. Also, keep in mind this is the green. Maybe other colors do not get darker. I really dont know. Plus I only have the green samples 

images:


















*
JPSS on BLACK??
*Well, this is interesting. If I had to place my guess, I'd say this is easier to see than it was before the wash. I really like what Im seeing here. This opens a lot of opportunities in my opinion.
The swirly design seems more prominate.It feels a little waxy though. There could just be wax (or whatever the transfer is made out of) on there.

The boxes are more colorful in my opinion than they were last night. Still some of the 'waxy' feel on the COLD PEELED sides... less waxiness on the HOT PEEL side... the colors look better on the HOT PEEL side too... the cold peel has a white tint over them (from the waxy stuff).

I think this is neat. I wonder if more washes will take that waxy stuff off or if it's stuck there for good...

Images:



















*GROUP SHOT
*I know some of the pictures look like they are different lighting condition than others... Okay, so im not a professional garment photographer!

here is a few shots with a couple pressed images all next to eachother so you can see how they contrast against eachother.

Images:



















Well, that wraps it up for PART II.
I didnt notice very much difference in the clothing after one wash.
I will toss these in randomly with other loads through out the week. I will wash it FOUR more times on whatever settings the load they go with needs...

I will take pictures after that, that will mean FIVE washes will have happend on the next update.

After that I will HOT WASh them.. Overdry them.. Kick them around.. Maybe shoot at them. I will take some more pics then.

Thats my plans so far.. Until next time!


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Thanks for doing this. Great post!!!


AdamnSmith said:


>



Adam, in the transfer above you mentioned in the first post that the orange was 'runny'. Did you notice this on the transfer immediately after you printed it, or did it bleed in the wash? 




AdamnSmith said:


> After that I will HOT WASh them.. Overdry them.. Kick them around.. Maybe shoot at them. I will take some more pics then.


I wondered when somebody would perform a buck shot test.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

Thanks for the update. I'm surprised that the colors on the black shirt showed up as much as they did. I would love to see a "shot" test.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Thanks for doing this. Great post!!!
> 
> Adam, in the transfer above you mentioned in the first post that the orange was 'runny'. Did you notice this on the transfer immediately after you printed it, or did it bleed in the wash?
> 
> ...


I guess I cannot say for SURE but I do think it occured in the wash. I will make another 'Tacoma Stars' logo and see exactly when it does it. I have two of the logos on there and I believe they both did it. I will check tonight and let you know. Maybt eh orange is weaker than the other colors or something. heh


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I noticed on my Ironall, when I trimmed the design down to the color (on light) the ink would transfer just outside of the release paper as well. When I trim the image with a very narrow polymer edge left, the ink doesn't do that, it stays in place under the release paper? Was your image trimmed directly to the ink? Have you noticed this at all? 

Also, with the black shirt, did you put the design through the plotter? I don't see a 'box'. Thanks.

Here's a link to where Ivan says he is going to try Claria with the Ironall Dark so you can follow:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t42290-2.html#post256440


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> I noticed on my Ironall, when I trimmed the design down to the color (on light) the ink would transfer just outside of the release paper as well. When I trim the image with a very narrow polymer edge left, the ink doesn't do that, it stays in place under the release paper? Was your image trimmed directly to the ink? Have you noticed this at all?
> 
> Also, with the black shirt, did you put the design through the plotter? I don't see a 'box'. Thanks.
> 
> ...


No, the orange "bleeder" wasnt trimmed down to each letter. I just cut the basic chunk of the design out.

On the black shirt you asked if I put a design through the plotter. Which design? I believe all of the designs on the black were put through a plotter though. Except for the color squares of jpss on black.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

In my previous email, I was simply commiserating his remark about buying a printer that uses Durabrite ink (because that was what was recommended by Forum members) and then experiencing problems with that. I believe that this industry is continually changing -- sometimes for the good (being able to use dye ink with JPSS) and sometimes for the bad (Durabrite suddenly having color shifting). I have been and will be "riding this wave" that seems continuous in this industry.

I think anyone who has been in this industry more than a few weeks can attest to all the change -- but quite honestly, it's really all for the good because the products out there keep improving and making our shirts have greater longevity!  

Melissa


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

AdamnSmith said:


> I guess I cannot say for SURE but I do think it occured in the wash. I will make another 'Tacoma Stars' logo and see exactly when it does it. I have two of the logos on there and I believe they both did it. I will check tonight and let you know. Maybt eh orange is weaker than the other colors or something. heh


I was asking because I notice that any design I print that has red (or orange-red or reddish brown) in it will bleed when it's printed. I couldn't figure out if it's the ink or the paper. If you're experiencing the same thing, then it must be the JPSS.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

PART II.5


*SPECTRA ECO-FILM VS. SPECTRA CUT II
*So, I also got some Eco-Film and Cut 2 from Josh at Imprintables Warehouse. Figured I would throw them into the mix!

Spectra Eco-Film - I had no problem cutting, or applying this. Everything went smoothly.

Spectra Cut 2- josh warned me the cut 2 was more difficult to use. The instructions are much longer. Basically if you need to apply colors AND white, you have to press them at sperate times because white needs to be on for a few seconds longer and at a little higher temperature (3 secs longer at 9 degress hotter).
I didnt press any white.. Just some orange.

Some pieces of the vinyl are not pressed all the way, and parts of the vinyl did not stick to the garment.

Perhaps if I were to finess the temp and timing as well as pressure - maybe then it would work fine. but as it stands, a newb following directions will result in possible failure.

With this particular experiment , Spectra ECO-FILM is the victor.

Orange = Cut II
Red = Eco=Film

Images:


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## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

Thank you for everything, I still have not received our sample paper from coastal yet, (I called on tue.), I am stoked about trying it, hopefully it will be here tomorrow, I am itching to try it!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

AdamnSmith said:


> On the black shirt you asked if I put a design through the plotter. Which design?


Sorry, I was refering to the swirly one that showed up brighter (looked like that to me, too) after the wash. 

I was just wondering if that swirly one on the black shirt had been trimmed with the plotter. 

Was there ink color on that, or is the just the plain polymer of the JPSS? Thanks. 


I haven't had any of the colors run. If they sit in the washer, the papers all seem to say in the instructions that "the colors may bleed if left wet."  

I'm sorry, I can't remember but I think you said it did not sit in the washer, isn't that right?  

It would be nice to know what's going on. I would like to change my ink, but do not want to start having troubles like this.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I agree with Melissa, we've been lucky to see some great improvements in products lately (just waiting on the JPSS for darks now.)

I was only commenting on ink in this thread because while dye seems to work with JPSS for lights, if anyone uses Ironall dark, or something else for darks, the dye inks aren't tested with those papers yet. 

It'll be great to see the results of Ivan's tests, it would be nice to see a if the Claria works on that, too. One dye ink for both papers. That would be another new and wonderful developement in the IJ heat transfer world. Whoo hoo! It really is exciting. Keep the waves rolling!!


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> Sorry, I was refering to the swirly one that showed up brighter (looked like that to me, too) after the wash.
> 
> I was just wondering if that swirly one on the black shirt had been trimmed with the plotter.
> 
> ...


Swirly Design was cut with a plotter and had very light color ink on it. A very light blue. It was trimmed to the very edge of the color, didnt have an overhang of the transfer

The shirts did not sit in water in the wash. They just did the normal wash thing. haha.


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## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

I don't know what happened with the JPPS, It would not release properly, and turned out horrible I do not know what I did wrong? I followed the directions to the t and this is what happened...

























I also received everlast paper an loved it!!! It also streches!


















I also tried it on the darks, just to see if it would do the same thing as the JPSS that 
AdamnSmith provided for us! 
"AGAIN THIS IS WITH THE EVERLAST FOR WHITES"



















I will wash them tomorrow to see what happens 

Again I am sure I did something silly with the jpps but not sure 

Oh Lou, Coastal forgot the samples of the dark paper LOL So I called them and I should be getting it within the next few days hopefully!!


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

I'm on wash number 6 in case anyone is still watching this thread. I will return with updated pictures at wash number 10. I have noticed some change so far. Check back in soon!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

dragonfly0006 said:


> I don't know what happened with the JPPS, It would not release properly, and turned out horrible I do not know what I did wrong? I followed the directions to the t and this is what happened...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear that you had problems with the JPSS -- it's weird... I have used over 65 sheets so far, and haven't had a problem! Hmmm... just a thought -- was it the first shirt you did for the day? Perhaps your lower platen wasn't heated up enough prior to pressing?

The Everlast for lights that you used is called by many different names, but most commonly called IronAll. After using very plasticky, heavy handed transfer that cracked, the Everlast seemed terrific - it stretched, didn't crack, etc. HOWEVER, after using and testing, it fades CONSIDERABLY, AND since I do a lot of photo transfers, I also noticed that it's resolution isn't the greatest to begin with, and loses the resolution rapidly as the shirt is washed. I have a shirt I made my daughter last October, before the release of Jet Pro Sof Stretch, that had a photo of my daughter and my Dad on it. Well, you can barely even make out who the picture is of now, it's so muddy. Oh yeah, and it's EXTREMELY faded too. Sorry to kill your excitement over it!  

My recommendation is to do some presses on an empty press to get your lower platen good and hot, and try the JPSS again. Trust me -- it's the best paper out there, and my customers have been VERY satisfied with it's performance. My test prints have survived at least a dozen washes against all recommended washing instructions: right-side-out in hot water, having detergent rubbed directly into the transferred area, and dried on hot for 60 minutes each time. Each shirt has negligible fading and still looks great, although the shirts are starting to pill and the shirt fibers are starting to raise from all the washing, which can give the *mistaken* appearance of fading...

Anyway, good luck!  

Melissa


----------



## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

thanks a bunch I will giv it another go to see what happens!


----------



## Buechee (Dec 22, 2005)

Thank you for taking the time to post all of this. It is a great post. I hope that the new folks here find it. Heck, it help me some.


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## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

Hey guys! Just wanted to let you know I tried the JPSS again tonight, It turned out beautiful!!! The directions said 375 for 30 sec. and it did not turn out the best for me so I tried 350 for 20 sec. and presto it was like a whole different paper for me! I would like to thank all of you for your input , and to the endless hours of reading the threads on here!


To all the newbs, (like me ) Read as much as you can when you can, if I wouldn't have I wouldn't of know just to set back temp and set time or therefore increase it! I would have just bagged the idea all together(JPSS) If I wouldn't have tried to play around with it! Then I would have missed out on a great paper! 



I will do the wash test tomorrow and post up the result! 
Again much thanks!!


----------



## Dsigned (Aug 14, 2007)

Dragonfly, how did you cut the skull & cross bones? by hand or machine?


----------



## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

By hand...for now any way!!!LOL 


Sorry guys was a tid bit busy last night to post up the new pic's I will try tonight!


----------



## shopaholic12 (May 10, 2008)

plastisol really is the best to use if you're just starting out


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

dragonfly0006 said:


> Hey guys! Just wanted to let you know I tried the JPSS again tonight, It turned out beautiful!!! The directions said 375 for 30 sec. and it did not turn out the best for me so I tried 350 for 20 sec. and presto it was like a whole different paper for me! I would like to thank all of you for your input , and to the endless hours of reading the threads on here!
> 
> 
> To all the newbs, (like me ) Read as much as you can when you can, if I wouldn't have I wouldn't of know just to set back temp and set time or therefore increase it! I would have just bagged the idea all together(JPSS) If I wouldn't have tried to play around with it! Then I would have missed out on a great paper!
> ...


 
...just wondering what was the difference between the 375° press and the 350°??...what did each look like,feel like??

are you still pressing at 350 20sec?

what heat press do you use?
What inks do you use?

sorry for all of the questions.... I hope you dont mind...


----------



## dragonfly0006 (Jan 23, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> ...just wondering what was the difference between the 375° press and the 350°??...what did each look like,feel like??
> 
> are you still pressing at 350 20sec?
> 
> ...


the prob, I had was that the paper got to hot and bubbled and half went on the garment and the other half stayed on the paper, they both had a smooth hand but if you read on you will understand y I turned the haet down. yes I am still pressing at any were between 350 to 360, I am not sure what the name of my press is I will find out and let you know, I currently use the paper ranches own personal ink! no I do not mind at all (?) that is how you learn and grow!!!


----------



## HHGobi (May 11, 2008)

Thanks for your illustrations - very imformative! Have you tried Jet Dark (JPSS for lights--Jet Dark for darks)? Any good results?

Thanks,


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

HHGobi said:


> Thanks for your illustrations - very imformative! Have you tried Jet Dark (JPSS for lights--Jet Dark for darks)? Any good results?
> 
> Thanks,


JPSS IS AWESOME!!! AND.......

I LOVE ALPHA GOLD FOR DARKS!

I did 2 test presses on a black shirt :
1. Alpha Gold for darks
2.Ironall for darks

Alpha Gold beat Ironall hands down!!!

Alpha gold had VERY bright colors and had a nice feel .
Ironall looked faded out right off of the press!..although it did have a nice feel too.

I have been washing both of them EVERY TIME I do a wash and so far, neither has cracked...BUT
Ironall for darks shirt FADED even more !!!
A LOT MORE!!!

ALPHA GOLD FOR DARKS HAS NOT FADED AT ALL!!!!! WOW!!! AND NO CRACKING!!!!!!!!!
And even the "feel" has gotten better!

I was so amazed that I ordered 100 sheets!!!

I posted pictures here on the forum somewhere.... I need to find the link and then I will post it here.....


----------



## HHGobi (May 11, 2008)

Thank you for answering. I'll have to look up Alpha Gold. It's amazing I haven't been able to find anyone w/comments re JET DARK! tho everyone loves the JPSS. I'm ready to buy paper....have used the Coastal InkJet Opaque for darks. Would love to feel confident on buying. Thanks.


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

The thread is titled "Ironall dark fading"

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t42818.html


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

HHGobi said:


> Thank you for answering. I'll have to look up Alpha Gold. It's amazing I haven't been able to find anyone w/comments re JET DARK! tho everyone loves the JPSS. I'm ready to buy paper....have used the Coastal InkJet Opaque for darks. Would love to feel confident on buying. Thanks.


I do believe I have some Jet Dark samples.
I need to try them!

I have been so busy loving ALPHA GOLD DARK that I have neglected my Jet Dark!
oops!

You can get AGFD at Alpha supply company
their web address is... transfer business . com 
Heat transfer paper, tutorials and heat presses to start a business

I love that site! It has so much great info!
And JACK is wonderful!
He will spend time with you on the phone if you need help!

hope this has helped you in some way.....


here are a few more good threads...

Durabrite vs. Inksupply.com HT ink -- Durabrite, You're Fired!
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39125.html

New "Cheap" Heat Press Arriving Today
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t36141.html

Testing New Transfer Paper
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39332.html


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

HHGobi said:


> Thank you for answering. I'll have to look up Alpha Gold. It's amazing I haven't been able to find anyone w/comments re JET DARK! tho everyone loves the JPSS. I'm ready to buy paper....have used the Coastal InkJet Opaque for darks. Would love to feel confident on buying. Thanks.


Dear HH, 

Something about your post makes me wonder if you have the impression Jet Dark is JPSS in a dark version. Just in case, and excuse me please if you are already aware of it, JPSS for lights does not have a dark version yet. Jet Dark is just a dark paper, nothing to do with JPSS. 

I have seen this confusion with that paper once before. I did see your question in the other thread as well... I have not tried Jet Dark. I use Ironall Dark, but so far, the only other paper I would sample is the Alpha Gold based on Mrs. Bacon's findings, bc she's has tested both side by side, and she is familiar with the virtues of Ironall Dark, so she knows what she is looking for. (Thank you again Mrs. Bacon - for the update .)

Again, pls forgive me if you already knew this regarding Jet Dark, best regards, Kelly


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Dear HH,
> 
> Something about your post makes me wonder if you have the impression Jet Dark is JPSS in a dark version. Just in case, and excuse me please if you are already aware of it, JPSS for lights does not have a dark version yet. Jet Dark is just a dark paper, nothing to do with JPSS.
> 
> ...


you are so welcome kelly!!! 
I want to like IAFD...... but too many problems so far..... Again... I heard it was a VERY BIG bad batch!yuck!
So I am hoping that "they" get it fixed and I can try it again and like it... like so many others do!(I guess they received their IAFD before the "bad batch" came out! LOL)
oh well. 

BUT FOR NOW... my love affair with ALPHA GOLD continues on...... 


Oh , kelly,,,,I now wish that I was rich and could afford a DTG machine!!!
Take a look on youtube at the Anajet!!!
I am going to go to a *FREE Intro to Direct-to-Garment (DTG)* Workshop hosted by Anajet!!! (this friday the 16th)
hopefully my hubby can do a video and i can post!!!
Well, _MAYBE_ I will by one.... it's only (screaming) 15,000 DOLLARS!!!!!!!! 
LOL!!!!!!


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

kelly,
can you imagine .....
A $15,000 Anajet sitting next to my 240.00 "cheap" heat press....
NOW THAT WOULD BE FUNNY!!!!!
LOL


----------



## HHGobi (May 11, 2008)

Thank you for very much your response. I've been reading this one and other threads, and it's now that I understand that they aren't related (wish they were). 

I've used the Coastal Inkjet Opaque Transfer Paper (blue grid on back) on darks before but not tried anything else. Colors printed great. I've got to fill an order and hoped to find a softer reliable paper for darks, but time is running out. Can't afford to make a mistake on this one!

So, thank you very much again....will keep trying!


----------



## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Okay, I'd love to check out Alpha Gold, but at $75 for 25 sheets of 11x17... do they offer samples?


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

ashamutt said:


> kelly,
> can you imagine .....
> A $15,000 Anajet sitting next to my 240.00 "cheap" heat press....
> NOW THAT WOULD BE FUNNY!!!!!
> LOL


 
LOL, Mrs. Bacon, that would be funny!! 
I see you with a DTG one day, I do!
(PS: I hear Anajet was going to start, or already was, offering refurb'd dtg's for - like - $3-4K. lol - could come with a warranty... who knows... lol.. my epson is a re-furb... got no probs with it... haha, not even clogging. ) Anyway, thought I'd get you going with the tidbit, haha, have a great night!


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Chani said:


> Okay, I'd love to check out Alpha Gold, but at $75 for 25 sheets of 11x17... do they offer samples?


Yeah, that is high to take a dive in without trying the "water". I know what you mean, Chani.

But I looked at the pricing overall, and if this paper is as good or better than Ironall Dark, that is cheaper than Ironall Dark is...

Ironall Dark is really such an expensive paper, and the other darks are cheaper bc, well, they aren't Ironall. If Alpha Gold is as good or better, then I think I'd actually be saving money and be able to put out a product at least as good, if not better according to Mrs. Bacon. 

But I'd like a sample before laying down a chunk of change like that, too.

Nothing beats doing your own wash tests. You really get an eyeful.


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

HHGobi said:


> Thank you for very much your response. I've been reading this one and other threads, and it's now that I understand that they aren't related (wish they were).
> 
> I've used the Coastal Inkjet Opaque Transfer Paper (blue grid on back) on darks before but not tried anything else. Colors printed great. I've got to fill an order and hoped to find a softer reliable paper for darks, but time is running out. Can't afford to make a mistake on this one!
> 
> So, thank you very much again....will keep trying!


oh , I'm sorry! please forgive.
I just thought you might like some good reading about, inks, paper and so forth.
...and picts of my wash tests for AGFD vs. IAFD.
I didnt mean any confusion. sorry again.

My blue grid dark peeled! 
I am so happy it was a gift to a friend and not a sale!!!

ALPHA GOLD ALL THE WAY FOR ME!!!


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Chani said:


> Okay, I'd love to check out Alpha Gold, but at $75 for 25 sheets of 11x17... do they offer samples?


oh, yes!
That's how i came across it!
I ordered samples from costal, new milford, tshirtsupplies and alpha supply company.

.....had about 23 shirts do do before a mosaic conference(for my friends)and that's when I found out about about the BAD batch of IAFD!!!! my fault though...I waited 'til the last minute...the NIGHT BEFORE!!!!! 
Anyway, out of all of the samples, AGFD has been the only one to hold up and not fade,crack or peel.
...and I am still testing it ...EVERY time I do a load of darks ...in the wash it goes!!(along with the test shirt pressed with the "bad" batch of IAFD.)
AGFD has held up like a champ!

Just call Jack at alpha supply co. and tell him your situation and what you would like in a sample pack.... he is very nice and will work with you!!

and...AGFD is less expensive than IAFD.
IAFD will run about 2.00 per sheet!
AGFD will run between 1.10-1.50 per sheet.
That's the 8.5x11 of course.
The 11x17 is the "same" price per SQ inch......


----------



## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

That's true. I forgot that IronAll Dark was $2.00 a sheet for 8.5x11, so you're right, it's much cheaper than that paper.

I'll call them for samples. 

Thanks!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Chani said:


> That's true. I forgot that IronAll Dark was $2.00 a sheet for 8.5x11, so you're right, it's much cheaper than that paper.
> 
> I'll call them for samples.
> 
> Thanks!


...you are so welcome!
I am so glad to help! 

Tell Jack (@Alphasupplyco) that you saw his company&AGFD on the T-forums and I think he might give you a discount.... I am not positive about this ...but "I think" this is true.

I will post some new pictures of the wash tests tomorrow.


----------



## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> ...you are so welcome!
> I am so glad to help!
> 
> Tell Jack (@Alphasupplyco) that you saw his company&AGFD on the T-forums and I think he might give you a discount.... I am not positive about this ...but "I think" this is true.
> ...


Looks like I am going to have to order some samples of Alpha Gold  .. also looking forward to your pics mrs bacon.


----------



## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

> My blue grid dark peeled!
> I am so happy it was a gift to a friend and not a sale!!!


Dois this paper come with blue lines on the back if so I can send out samples out I have 5 boxs of this


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

mrdavid said:


> Dois this paper come with blue lines on the back if so I can send out samples out I have 5 boxs of this


Thanks so much and you are sweet to offer But i don't understand ....?
The *BLUE GRID FOR DARKS WAS HORRIBLE* PAPER!!!(not yelling)
It peeled after only a couple of washes!
It pressed nice and the color was good but IT PEELED EVERY TIME!!! YUCK!
(maybe a bad batch like IAFD???)

*The ALPHA GOLD FOR DARKS HAS BEEN THE ONLY PAPER that has held up so far......*
*Again...no fading , no cracking , no peeling!!!!!!!!! AWESOME,......so far*.
(and it "feels" better after washing)

Anyway..... more picts coming soon.... my camera battery is charging as We speak/write!

NOTE:
I use ....
1. High Heat Transfer Pigment Ink(MIS &inkjetcarts ink)

2. Epson stylus C120 & c88+ printers

3. 50/50 shirts for opaque transfers(gildan,jerzees & hanes heavyweight)

4.100% cotton AND 50/50 shirts for JPSS

5. LAST BUT NOT LEAST....! MY "cheap" BUT WONDERFUL SO FAR SEIKI/SUNIE 15x15 HEAT PRESS!! 240.00 S&H included!!!WOW!



Again, thanks David for your sweet offer.


----------



## Glam (May 19, 2008)

Did you take the photos down? They are just red "x" boxes and I would love to see what they looked like to understand more of what you are saying.


----------



## tim3560 (Jan 7, 2007)

Yeah Doug, Do you know what happened to the pics?


----------



## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> The *BLUE GRID FOR DARKS WAS HORRIBLE* PAPER!!!(not yelling)
> It peeled after only a couple of washes!
> It pressed nice and the color was good but IT PEELED EVERY TIME!!! YUCK!


Interesting, it seems that results with the blue grid paper vary but are generally bad. My samples held their color very well and did not peel but they cracked terribly when I stretched them after five washes. If not for the cracking I would recommend this paper.


----------



## dr8ggnbomb (Mar 7, 2008)

Doug, thank you for the very useful information. Much appreciated!


----------



## mikalopa (Feb 24, 2008)

is there any way you can list the images on this thread... images do not show on my pc. maybe the links are broken


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Im sorry guys. I switched servers and that is why the pics are down. I have them still and I will come and fix the thread as well as take the new pics. Im sorry, its been a long time since Ive been on and it will still be some time before I can have the time to do all of it.

Thank you for checking with the thread still


----------



## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



angelic_endeavor said:


> Oh yeah, just wanted to give you a little food for thought... In your test with the black design on JPSS: I'm thinking that the problem with the ink not being super dark (and comparable with the darkness of the black shirt) is probably the ink you're using, and not the JPSS. Have you considered this as a possibility?
> 
> What ink are you using? Durabrite?
> 
> ...


Hi Melissa, I'm a newbie to this business. What brand of ink do you use?

Sam


----------



## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

AdamnSmith said:


> Hi there. I am very new to transfers but I have been part of the forums for a few months. Basically I have been experimenting with things and I want to share with others. Hopefully I can make this an on-going thread and maybe help others learn too.
> 
> I have no idea how this will turn out. So Im not promoting or demoting any products. I guess we will find out together how this all works.
> 
> ...


HI Doug,
I'm a newby too. Thank for sharing this info. Is it possible for me to contact you for advise if I problem? 

I'll be using Swingman, epson 1520 with ink from inkjetcarts.us and JPSS paper.


Sam


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



sam3510 said:


> Hi Melissa, I'm a newbie to this business. What brand of ink do you use?
> 
> Sam


 
Hiya Sam.. Melissa's a friend of mine, and I haven't seen her online in a while. I'd be happy to link you up to the post where Melissa shares her supplier info with us. Here you go:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t42573.html#post253040

Melissa put alot of research into her inks before she made her purchase. From her other posts, she is thrilled with her choice. Good luck to you.


----------



## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*

Thanks Kelly. Isn't technology great. All this information at your fingertip.
You rock.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks, Sam... and yeah... I am amazed all the time by the info available, and how help arrives from all parts of the globe on this site.


----------



## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

what happened to the images


----------



## huey59 (Jul 19, 2008)

Very interested in your experiences, but photos/graphics did not come through. Any advice?


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

This post is from AdamnSmith on June 24th. He says he'll re-post them, but it may be a while. Hopefully that means business is Good!! 



AdamnSmith said:


> Im sorry guys. I switched servers and that is why the pics are down. I have them still and I will come and fix the thread as well as take the new pics. Im sorry, its been a long time since Ive been on and it will still be some time before I can have the time to do all of it.
> 
> Thank you for checking with the thread still


----------



## MR8612 (Jul 23, 2008)

Hi Adam,

I love your thread but I cannot see the pictures, all I see are small boxes with red x's.

Thank you for the great advise.

Bruni


----------



## tereshirt (Apr 17, 2008)

Hello Doug and T-shirt forum members,

I went to the Printwear Show in Long Beach last week and became interested with Roland VP300 and the Chromablast Digital Color Imaging System for Epson printers. I like the Roland because it can produce graphics not only for t-shirts but can also use for making banners. With the Chromablast, I like how the ink sit on the 100% polyester shirt, the graphics also looks vibrant and it is smooth, but the guy said that I can only use polyester. 

My goal for now is to find a printer that can print photos or images to a transfer paper and I will heat press them on different type of t-shirts like cotton, 50/50, polyester, and onto sports jersey. What is the perfect combination of PRINTER-TRANSFER PAPER- INK - HEAT PRESS that will produce a vibrant graphics, the ink sits very well on the fabric like when you touch it you will not feel a roughness. 

Thank you so much in advance!


----------



## reginammp62 (Jul 4, 2008)

AdamnSmith said:


> Hi there. I am very new to transfers but I have been part of the forums for a few months. Basically I have been experimenting with things and I want to share with others. Hopefully I can make this an on-going thread and maybe help others learn too.
> 
> I have no idea how this will turn out. So Im not promoting or demoting any products. I guess we will find out together how this all works.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for this post. For some reason unfortunately I can't see your images? Only get an X in a box. Is anyone else having the same issue or just me (which wouldn't surprise me to be honest. 
-regina


----------



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

No, they are gone, Regina. A page or two back, Doug says he'll put them back eventually, but he said he's very busy - and it might be a while...


----------



## tereshirt (Apr 17, 2008)

reginammp62 said:


> Thanks for this post. For some reason unfortunately I can't see your images? Only get an X in a box. Is anyone else having the same issue or just me (which wouldn't surprise me to be honest.
> -regina


Hello, thank you for your reply, it is very informative! I cannot see the pics of the different transfer you posted. can you pls post them again with a working link or images? Thank you.


----------



## cuush.com (Apr 8, 2006)

> Possibly this "plasticol" people talk about


Yeah, if you're busy...don't bother with that.


----------



## reginammp62 (Jul 4, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> No, they are gone, Regina. A page or two back, Doug says he'll put them back eventually, but he said he's very busy - and it might be a while...


Thanks, I'm always inclined to believe is my own warped mind playing tricks on my or this dell just laughing at me again! 
-regina


----------



## flyingfig (May 28, 2008)

thanks adam great post...unfortunately none of the pics were there so prob didnt get the full effect...am assuming the jpss on dark did not work..but would love to have seen all your pics. cheers and thanks again. kate


----------



## flyingfig (May 28, 2008)

*Re: Things I have learned.. I'd like to share*



angelic_endeavor said:


> LOL... I know EXACTLY what you mean. I went from using HP Photosmart printer to the Epson C88+ because Epsons use pigment ink, and that's what I was told was needed for doing shirts. Then the colors started to shift after being pressed -- ex: what was gray when printed, turned olive green after being pressed! I made the switch to refillable carts (instead of a CIS because I don't do enough printing and would have problems with clogging) and heat transfer ink, AND I AM SO GLAD I DID! Refillable carts were from inkjetcarts.us and heat transfer ink was from inksupply.com. Of course after I spent $80 on the ink from inksupply.com, now inkjetcarts.us offers THE VERY SAME INK, FROM THE SAME MFR. (according to them) for $46! I went to their site, and they do have a set of refillable carts, ink, etc. as a set for your printer. Here's the link: Refillable inkjet cartridge, refillable ink cartridges, ultrachrome printer inks
> 
> For only $53 you'll have the carts and enough ink, that you'll save over $400 compared to the Durabrite, AND you'll love the deep black. Much darker than Durabrite.
> 
> ...


Hi Melissa thanks for this post lots to think about as just starting out and have not yet gone down the 'upgrade my printer' path from my regular HP printer...am thinking then that i may not have to yet! but just to use the suggested inks....is that right??? also link did not open just wondering was there a name i can google and look up that way? good on you and thanks again. kate


----------



## bargaincrusader (Feb 23, 2008)

Where are the results?


----------



## assalychris (Aug 27, 2008)

Hello,
This post looks very informative, unfortunately there are no pictures 
If someone has them, would you please post them.
Thanks


----------



## cbell442 (Oct 20, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> *The ALPHA GOLD FOR DARKS HAS BEEN THE ONLY PAPER that has held up so far......*
> *Again...no fading , no cracking , no peeling!!!!!!!!! AWESOME,......so far*.
> (and it "feels" better after washing)
> 
> ...


What temp do you use on 50/50 shirts with the Alpha Gold?

I tried Alpha Gold on a royal blue 50/50 & had a problem with the transfer becoming fairly transparent & the blue shirt showing through. I realized that I hadn't let the press cool down from lowering the temp (directions state 360 for 50/50), so I did another one & it wasn't as bad, but there was still some royal blue showing through. I called Alpha Supply & was told that they no longer recommend it for 50/50. Since you have had success with 50/50, do you have any tips?


----------



## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

cbell442 said:


> What temp do you use on 50/50 shirts with the Alpha Gold?


*well, I have been using 100% cotton as of late.....no orders for the 50/50.*
*...but when I do press 50/50 I use med pressure and a temp of about 345°. AND , press for about 22 seconds.*
*(medium pressure for me is about a #4.5 on my hotronix draw press.)*



cbell442 said:


> I tried Alpha Gold on a royal blue 50/50 & had a problem with the transfer becoming fairly transparent & the blue shirt showing through. I realized that I hadn't let the press cool down from lowering the temp (directions state 360 for 50/50), so I did another one & it wasn't as bad, but there was still some royal blue showing through. I called Alpha Supply & was told that they no longer recommend it for 50/50. Since you have had success with 50/50, do you have any tips?


First tip......

1. Buy a "Thermometer / Pyrometer" to make sure your press is running at the correct temp!
I got mine from Ebay...
Atkins Digital Surface Thermometer / Pyrometer
Atkins Digital Surface Thermometer / Pyrometer - eBay (item 290270808145 end time Nov-01-08 09:02:31 PDT)

(...it cost me about 25.00 plus 9.99 S&H)
(if you can afford a more expensive one, get it.........if not, this one works great!)

Tip 2. 
Print out a "test" sheet and cut it up into 4 or 6 pieces.
Then take a scrap shirt(of the same kind that you will be pressing) and do "test" presses. 
When you get a "test" press that looks good and adheres properly, write down what temp, pressure and time were used.
Usually when I get paper "see-through" it is because I have the pressure set too high and have pressed too long!
(also, make sure that all moisture is removed from the shirt BEFORE pressing your transfer......a quick pre-press of about 5-8 seconds should do the trick)


Tip 3
Keep your paper SEALED!!! 
I use 10x12 inch ziplock bags that I purchase through ebay.
100 for under 20.00!
(I use 4mil, but 2mil will work fine too, and they are only 11.00 for 100)


TIP 4
Know your opaque paper! 

Neenah paper makes Jet-Opaque paper.(alpha gold)
Here is a link to their site and all the heat transfer paper that they manufacture.
Neenah Paper Technical - Heat Transfer - Abrasives & Medical Packaging
Click on the "Jet-Opaque" link and it will give some tips on how to get a nice transfer.

Also , here is a link to a thread about the 4 different kinds of OPAQUE paper.......and a lot of the different names that each one goes by.
(that way you can check different prices!) 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t62815.html


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## cbell442 (Oct 20, 2008)

Thanks for the tips. I'm a newbie to heat transfers & was doing tests to learn the process when I saw this problem but didn't think about pressure. I'll do more tests & hopefully find a good result.

Also, thanks for the link for the reasonably priced temp probe. I put a bid on it. I have a Mighty Press Lite, which doesn't have a thermometer, so it is hard to know when the temp is correct without watching the thermostat light when I lower it.

I love this forum. It's so nice to be able to learn from those that have "been there, done that". I should have known better, but when I decided to get a heat press, I didn't realize there were so many variables (e.g. different brands of paper giving various results, time, temp, shirt material, shirt manufacturer, ink, etc.). This forum has helped save me so much time & money since I've been able to learn from reading instead of trial & error.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

...glad I could be of some help!

So many here have helped me too!!! 

And although it looks like there are 1000's of papers out there for inkjet use.....most are all the same paper with different names! LOL
(4 different opaque's and about 6 different lights)
(I found this out the hard way....and lots of money spent!)

A "paper matching tool" will be out there SOON.....hopefully within the next 2 months!!!


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## Larry B (Sep 24, 2010)

The sunni presses run HOT and have cold spots too. With a quality press blue grid id perfect paper.


ashamutt said:


> Thanks so much and you are sweet to offer But i don't understand ....?
> The *BLUE GRID FOR DARKS WAS HORRIBLE* PAPER!!!(not yelling)
> It peeled after only a couple of washes!
> It pressed nice and the color was good but IT PEELED EVERY TIME!!! YUCK!
> ...


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