# Crystallizing from pre treatment



## Reflective (Jun 29, 2015)

So, 

we have a Epson F2000 DTG and everytime we go to print the job, the colors look good, but part of the print is not coming out like it should, it looks like its peeling, i will include a picture on what i mean. We have 80 shirts to print for this job and i don't need them looking how they do. It's crystalized on the red of the flag...I don't know if it has to do with the way i am pre treating the shirt or maybe the pressure or amout of heat im using....

If anyone can give me some pointers on what to do , i'd gladly appriciate it. 

Thanks.

David

Picture of messed up Print...It is a screenshot
http://puu.sh/iHqSA/f1a8e57be4.jpg


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## COPEM CUSTOMS (Apr 14, 2015)

What kind of shirts are you using? Pretreat brand, method and cure times? There can be multiple reasons for this so we'll have to narrow it down.


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## Reflective (Jun 29, 2015)

COPEM CUSTOMS said:


> What kind of shirts are you using? Pretreat brand, method and cure times? There can be multiple reasons for this so we'll have to narrow it down.


Haynes Nano, Ring spun , and it only happens on Black shirts, We pre treat with 30 grams of pre treat and when we go to cure it , we go 10 seconds down then flip the paper then 10 seconds down flip the paper then 40 seconds down and after that there's usually no crystallization, but when we put the print on the shirt, and then dry it for 60 seconds at 350 degrees we get crystallization.


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## COPEM CUSTOMS (Apr 14, 2015)

Reflective said:


> Haynes Nano, Ring spun , and it only happens on Black shirts, We pre treat with 30 grams of pre treat and when we go to cure it , we go 10 seconds down then flip the paper then 10 seconds down flip the paper then 40 seconds down and after that there's usually no crystallization, but when we put the print on the shirt, and then dry it for 60 seconds at 350 degrees we get crystallization.


I recently started DTG method & was having almost exact same problem (I use automatic Speedtreater from equipment zone). Went through 100's of test tees (literally!!) & countless hours researching and playing with settings. FINALLY figured out it that-in MY case-it was due to length of time & temp i was drying the PT! I USED to: 
-PRESS 30 SEC - HEAVY PRESSURE
-LINT/BRUSH
-PT setting 45
-AIR DRY COMPLETELY OR NO LESS THAN 5 min
-NON SILICONE BASED PT COVER SHEET ON TOP
-PRESS 45 SECS AT 350 -MED/HEAVY PRESSURE
-PRINT

NOW I
-PREPRESS 30 SECS - HEAVY PRESSURE
-LINT/BRUSH
-MOVE TO HEAT PRESS **WHILE STILL WET w\ PT**
-NON SILICONE BASED PT COVER SHEET ON TOP
-PRESS *NO MORE THAN 35 SECS* AT *330* -MED/HEAVY PRESSURE
-PRINT 

VOILA! Huuuuuuuuuuuge difference!! So for me, what changes I made that fixed it was
-NOT ALLOWING PT TO DRY ON SHIRT B4 PRESSING W/ HEAT PRESS
-DROPPING TEMP TO 330
-LOWERING PRESS TIME TO 35 SECS

Try doing same and see if same changes happen to work for you. Hope so! Let me know how it goes. Good Liuck!


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## COPEM CUSTOMS (Apr 14, 2015)

ALSO - forgot to mention I have heard several times in this forum that Teflon and silicone based PR sheets not recommended for pressing PT (also heard it works just fine for some) sheets AND that you should NOT remove/shift cover sheet AT ALL when drying the PT until you are finished pressing because this tends to lift fibers in fabric and may actually remove semi dried pt from shirt I'm some areas.. I've never done it since it read it on several posts here before I started, so can't tell you for sure if that's true or not.


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