# Heat pressing & transfer problems



## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

I'm hoping that someone might be able to help me out. 

I have finally got all my equipment together and today for the first time I tried a transfer on lights.

Printing and transfering was not a problem but i realised that the press as leaving a pale yellow sqaure on the t-shirt like when you leave an iron on for too long. The transfer paper instructed a 200c heating with 18 second press. Is this too higher a setting or could i go down to 130c and increase the press time to say 25 seconds. Saying this though, do i need to use greaseproof paper or a teflon. I'll be honest, i did buy a cheap heat press but only because of budget and the guy has had a good feedback on the products he sells.

So, do i 

lower the temp and increase the press time
use grease proof paper
get a teflon
any other method setting?
I am happy with the transfer itself, just the markings I am concerned about unless it washes off but I dont really want to wash every garment I press before I post them.

Any help would be appreciated


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## diane143 (Nov 17, 2006)

What kind of paper are you using?

What color shirt?

Have you washed it to see if the marking would come out?


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

hi Diane,

I am using jetstream paper and onto white t-shirt.

The paper dont seem to be problem, it seems to be the heat on the shirt for the length of time unless you think the settings are wrong. (am I right in thinking that this would happen on dark shirts like black, red?)

To be very very honest I am a complete newbie to this apart from the basic iron on transfer.

Fingers crossed I will get this right. took me a while to sork out the ink issues.

Many thanks


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

pardon my typos, must have heat pressed my fingers together lol


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## diane143 (Nov 17, 2006)

I have not used Jetstream so someone else will have to chime in on that.

But I have seen yellowing on whites which could be too much heat.

OR it could be the paper.

Red shirts to funny things but the mark goes away as they cool.

We'll help ya figure it out!


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks Dianne.

Its not really the paper that seems to be the problem, its the shirt itself. I have a 40x40 plate and an A4 sheet in it dont fill the plate, so when i press the print onto the shirt (transfer paper) the print seems fine but all around the outside of the image you can see the yellow/light tan burn.

I must admit though, i have forgotten about re-pressing but i think this would have burnt the shirt a bit more.

I dont know if it makes a difference but I am using 100% cotton shirts.


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## diane143 (Nov 17, 2006)

I use 100% cotton most of the time. Are you sure the temp gauge on the press is correct? Could be it's reading higher than it is set for. It does sound like it's scorching especially if it's not washing out.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

diane143 said:


> Could be it's reading higher than it is set for. It does sound like it's scorching especially if it's not washing out.


I have thought this, is there a way i can test the actual temperature coming of the plate or do i have to trust the reading?


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## diane143 (Nov 17, 2006)

Many use a laser temp gun. I used to but found it wasn't 100% accurate either. 

I ended up getting one of these and recalibrating the press, which I didn't realize I could do till then!
Geo Knight & Co Inc - Heat Presses Heat Press Machines Heat Press Machinery

I know my old press was nowhere near accurate! This one was about 16 degrees off till I recalibrated it. Which, depending on the temp you need for your paper, may be enough to kill a shirt.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Crumbs, I think i got myself a lemon


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Amor, did you read my other post to you in the other thread? What you are having is common when the shirts is scorching. Cotton does scorche around'ish 400, somewhere near it, and with the paper I use, jetprosofstretch, we press at 375 degrees for 30 seconds. That is a long and hot dwell time. I would only press at this temp and time with my teflon. Convert the numbers I just gave you and compare to what you are pressing for.

Also, it is possible your machine is running hot, like mentioned above by Diane. It is not a big deal, and if it is, you just find out how far off it is and adjust for it accordingly. Just verify the temp, find a sensor on Ebay or at a local tool shop, and adjust accordingly.

To find out if you are getting even heat across the platen, cut up a full size design into 9 squares, spread them out over a shirt or scrap fabric that is cotton and check that each image transfers similarly. Then you know your platen is conducting heat evenly.

A machine that runs high is not a lemon, one that doesn't heat at all is.

Just remember, cotton does in fact scorch, so telfon, or silicone sheet (from kitchen store) may be all you need. Silicone absorbs a little heat I hear from someone who uses one, so just expect it to reduce your press temp on the image. 

A little tweaking and you will be fine, don't give up, and don't worry, all is good!


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> A little tweaking and you will be fine, don't give up, and don't worry, all is good!


I hope you are right GirlznDolls. I have spent a few months looking at this and it is something i ant to get into considering that I have had 7 years in graphic desining and printing.

I was only wondering if i had a lemon becuase it did smoke heavily at one time (while it was open/not pressing) and when I move the swing or close the platen the temp drops quickly and then raises again once released, sometimes to a higher temp...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Smoking has a tendency to make me nervous, but some people have said they've seen a 'vapor' when pressing. I have no idea. I do pre-press my shirts to get the moisture out, you have to really so they are dry when you are transferring the image, maybe this is why it's different, I have no clue.

Here is a link to a thread dedicated to Ebay presses. Folks are gathering their models and feedback in this thread. Maybe you can join them:http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t36141.html#post210939

If you are wondering about your model, maybe you will find it in there and see other people's experience with it, or problems they had and solved, or not, but let's look on the upside and suppose your machine will be fine. Gotta run, good luck!


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Just verify the temp, find a sensor on Ebay or at a local tool shop, and adjust accordingly.


Is there a particular type of sensor i should look out for and how would i adjust it? Are you talking about a sensor that i can use like a temp cocontrol or a sensor that just reads the actual temperature. Sorry for sounding dumn but this is where i am hopeless and dont have a clue but your patience is welcomed and i do appreciate your time as well as everyone elses.

Many thanks


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Amor365 said:


> Is there a particular type of sensor i should look out for


No, just one that does the job and is in your budget.



> and how would i adjust it?


Regarding adjusting the temperature on your press. If your press is set for 375 degrees, and the heat sensor measures your press at 385 degrees, your press is running too hot by 10 degrees. When you want to press at 375 degrees, only turn your press up to 365 degrees.

With your heat sensor, you will be able to verify if it is in fact reaching 375 when you set the temp for 365.

(I'm sorry, I think in degrees, but it's just the theory we're talking here.)



> a sensor that just reads the actual temperature.


Just like a thermometer that reads a fever temp. For your press, one that is a heat sensor gun that you point at the upper platen and read the temp is the best scenario.



> Sorry for sounding dumn but this is where i am hopeless and dont have a clue but your patience is welcomed and i do appreciate your time


Don't worry, there are no dumb questions, only dumb answers, hahahahaa, okay, just a little late humor for me there. You are welcome, don't worry about it, but please think about buying some sort of teflon or silicone or parchment paper first, it may be the cheaper solution, and if it solves it, you won't need to buy the gun as well, unless you want to. Personally, I like the teflon, but it's what I'm used to using and the heat flows right through, unlike the silicone I hear, sucks up some of the heat.

PS: When you lower your platen to press, it is normal for the temp to take a slight drop as the shirt itself and the lower platen are absorbing some of the heat.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> PS: When you lower your platen to press, it is normal for the temp to take a slight drop as the shirt itself and the lower platen are absorbing some of the heat.


Thats good to know.

I have orded a heat gun as recomended by you but i will also buy a teflon tomorrow and try it out. I still think it is overheating anyway and i figure that if i get a teflon and press at 380 but the actual temperature is say 410 then this may still cause a problem and i wont know what the temp is when pressing.

I will keep you posted on how i get on.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I press on 100 percent cotton at 375 to 400 and I have never scorched A shirt and I do not use teflon sheet


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

mrdavid said:


> I press on 100 percent cotton at 375 to 400 and I have never scorched A shirt and I do not use teflon sheet


lol that is good news but dont mmake me feel any better. I think it is the temp on my platen though. I have ordered a heat sensor and i will try out the teflon later after trying out greaseproof paper.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Good luck, Amor.

It sounds to me like Kelly may be right. Your press is most likely running a little hot.

The smoking concerns me, too. Did it just do it the once?

Once you get your thermometer, you should be able to work out your issues and be up and running! 

One last question...what brand and trype of shirts are you using? Where are you getting them from? That might make a difference, too...we use Gildan Ultra Cotton 2000 100% cotton shirts and have never had a problem with scorching, even at 375F (190.6C). So your press might be just fine, but you'll know once you get your temperature gauge.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I never pressed without my teflon, so I don't know if anything would have scorched or not. I did read it is a good idea to use it to prevent any scorching, so I just started off that way. My press came with two teflon sheets, but as a person who always likes to prevent any issues, I would have gotten them anyway. Lou presses like crazy and I don't think he uses teflon either. I thought about not because of that, but I am not a lucky person sometimes, and if it will go wrong, it will probably be with me.


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

Chani said:


> One last question...what brand and trype of shirts are you using? Where are you getting them from? That might make a difference, too...


Yes and where did you stored the shirt before heat press. I noticed one time the same with a certain white shirt. The area of the heat press platen arround the paper turns into a light yellow.

Since it was not caused by the paper I tried to adjust the temperature and dwell time a little lower. 

Later however after washing a shirt the yellowed area became white again and was no longer visible so I thought that the temperature, dwell time and even the pressure is not the only factor what counts but also where the shirts where stored just before pressing because some time later I found that washing was not required to avoid the yellowing of the platen area.

I assume that the fabric was stored in a wet area and becomes extremely dry after heat press and therefore it shows a yellow shining. If I sprayed a little water onto that area the yellow was gone.

It may or may not the same problem you have but worth to try out I think.
BTW: it could also explain the smoking...

Jan


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Chani said:


> The smoking concerns me, too. Did it just do it the once?


I tried again today and it didnt smoke this time at all. But saying this i remember that I did grease the joints lightly as it was a little too firm and that could have been the reason.i contacted the seller and he said that it could smoke for a while but soon stop once in use. He also advised me to use a teflon. I have one coming to me from some robbing pros. cant believ the £7.99 postage charge for a teflon and they are based in the UK like me.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Chani said:


> Good luck, Amor.
> 
> 
> One last question...what brand and trype of shirts are you using?


I am currently using Fruit of the Loom and its 100% cotton.

I got them from a guy that was selling up his old stock as he stopped selling t-shirts on eBay.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Jokofix said:


> Yes and where did you stored the shirt before heat press.


I have only had the shirts for a couple of weeks now but always kept in the box it came in, however it has been cold and windy here so maybe a draft overnight as it was kept in the hallway untill recently.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Yeah, some people make all their money on shipping. 7.99 Pounds just for a 1oz teflong sheet?!? That's true highway robbery!

The smoke still scares me, and them saying that it might smoke at first scares me even more, but if it's not doing it anymore...

Good luck! I hope the teflon sheet works for you to prevent scorching!


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## jomark_ph (Feb 12, 2008)

im having problems with peeling.can someone help me?im using Transjet paper.look at the results.please advise me guys.thanks.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

*Scorch all gone*

OMG that looks bad, how are you pressing, what pressure, temp and time are you doing it for?


The badly scorched t i had yesterday was washed today after the 24hr curing and the yellow scorched stain has washed off and the transfer still looks good. So not all is lost but i still think that a teflon is the way to go as I cant wash all garments before sending. This will make them second hand and also time consuming.


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

*Re: Scorch all gone*



Amor365 said:


> The badly scorched t i had yesterday was washed today after the 24hr curing and the yellow scorched stain has washed off and the transfer still looks good. So not all is lost but i still think that a teflon is the way to go as I cant wash all garments before sending. This will make them second hand and also time consuming.


I don't think it is the missing teflon what not means you should not use it. The teflon sheet will avoid sticking to the platen.

The real reason is for the bad scorched effect in your case is an very wet t-shirt, high humidity or something like that. Once pressed the area of the platen will become extremely more dry as the surroundings. That make looking it as yellowing. No need to wash but spray some water onto the yellow area including the print and see if the color of the shirt becomes equal.

Store the t-shirts in a dry room for some time and you will probably not face this problem anymore.

Hope this helps.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

jomark_ph said:


> im having problems with peeling.can someone help me?im using Transjet paper.look at the results.please advise me guys.thanks.


 



Hey Jomark,

Same questions:
1. what temp? 
2. How long?
2a: What do the directions with you paper recommend?
3. How much pressure?
4. What printer and ink?
5. What shirt is that, mfg and fabric type?
6. What press do you have?
7.Also, are you sure you printed on the correct side of the paper. Don't laugh, it has happened to most of us at some point. 

Just checking b/c your image looks so odd. I don't use tranjet, I use jetprosofstretch, but with JP, I have not encountered anything like you have there. I was part of a test group for a Chinese paper that was mainly for Dye-sub, and we were trying to see if it would work with pigment ink, and what you have there looks like my results from my testing. Thanks.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Good luck, Amor, I'll be looking forward to hearing how it turns out for you.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Thaanks kelly, I think i have it under control now and just waiting for the teflon to arrive and the heat sensor (think i may have wasted my money until i tried out the teflon but its a useful tool to have regardless).

I will post an update when i have mastered the beast lol


All i need now is to wrk out what images i will be doing. I have so many just dont know what to do. Leave it to the buyer to decide and squeeze some stock images and my own desings in the options or just have my stock images. This area is beginning to look a little grey now


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## jomark_ph (Feb 12, 2008)

Same questions:
1. what temp? 
2. How long?
2a: What do the directions with you paper recommend?
3. How much pressure?
4. What printer and ink?
5. What shirt is that, mfg and fabric type?
6. What press do you have?
7.Also, are you sure you printed on the correct side of the paper. Don't laugh, it has happened to most of us at some point. 


Hi kelly,

I am using Transjet and the directions were 190C 15-20sec medium press.I have used 190C,18sec. medium press here.Epson c90 with sublimation ink for my printer.I think i've printed on the right side of the paper..i had mistakenly printed at the wrong side before and the transfer looked so faded. I have used 60/40 shirt (that's what the saleslady said.there's nothing at the label). My heat press machine was those form china.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Jomark,

Wouldn't you know I saw you in the other thread for self weeding paper. I saw you there after I wrote to you here. Your results were much better than mine. Now I am wondering if you used dye-sub with that image. That Chinese self weed paper recommend it, and we were experimenting to see if the pigments would work. Anyway.....

Transjet is a pigment ink paper. If you are using dye-sub ink, you need dye-sub papers. Pigment inks 'melt' into the fabric, dye-sub converts to 'gas' under heat and 'dyes' the fibers. You need to use the correct paper for each process. Hope this helps. PS: These are what I mean:Sublimation Supplies - Sublimation Paper


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## jomark_ph (Feb 12, 2008)

Thanks Kelly!I'll use pigment ink next time. I called ROQ's brother to ask for JPSS paper but they are out of stock right now.I want to try that too.Any suggestion for that particular paper?


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## jomark_ph (Feb 12, 2008)

i've printed it using sublimation ink with the Transjet. i think its a perfect transfer..or maybe i just got lucky. I've done this before reading your post kelly,for my next try i'll use the pigment ink with the Transjet.Thanks kelly for the suggestion.higly appreciate it!



















Below was printed using sublimation ink with the self weeding paper.not too lucky this time.its 8.5x11.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I'm never one to say "this is the way it's always been done." That's just what I've always been told regarding papers, and TJ is listed on Coastal's website under the inkjet section for pigment ink, not in the sublimination dye section.

"Trying new things" is why we tested the Chinese paper with pigment ink - even tho it recommends dye-sub. 

In your situation, if the wash tests prove the products work together, then it works.

I am testing Jetpro with Canon dye ink. That combo should show that the dye ink will wash out, but, my first test is showing no color loss at all. I'll continue to wash it to check its progress, but if it works, it'll be new ground for JPSS. Other folks are testing Claria dye ink, and that is working with 3 different papers, and should wash out, but it is not. We are all experimenting, looks like you are, too!!!

To find JPSS at a great price, here is a link, it is from ROQ, he really is great!:Transfer Paper - Transfer Papers for Ink Jet - JET-PRO SofStretch (Powered by CubeCart)


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## jomark_ph (Feb 12, 2008)

thanks kelly! i'll post again the shirt after the wash test. honestly, its not experimenting with the sublimation ink for Transjet ..i actually didnt know what's the right stuff to use but i hope it does work somehow..


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

*good luck amor, it looks like your good to go now *


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Wow this topic has proven to be more popular than I imagined. Good to know and thanks for adding.

I have nowgotmy teflon sheet but it still scorches the shirt though not as bad as before. 

My friend was telling me that I am pressing my transfer for too long but the packet says to press for 18 seconds at 200 celcius.

Is this too strong and too long? This may be the reason why it scorches. What do you think?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Amor,

What paper do you use, again, and can you convert the 200c to degrees for us?


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Amor,
> 
> What paper do you use, again, and can you convert the 200c to degrees for us?


 
Hi Kelly,

200 celcius is about 400f. The paper i am using (might get a different brand next time) is jetstream (or i think it is, not at home right now) but my friend says he does it at 250 celcius for 8 seconds. Could it be that i just have rubbish paper that needs more heat and maybe it is for irons only and not pressers.....


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Leatherneck said:


> *good luck amor, it looks like your good to go now *


Thanks Leatherneck I hope you are right


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

200 C is 392 F to be exact


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Amor365 said:


> Hi Kelly,
> 
> 200 celcius is about 400f. The paper i am using (might get a different brand next time) is jetstream (or i think it is, not at home right now) but my friend says he does it at 250 celcius for 8 seconds. Could it be that i just have rubbish paper that needs more heat and maybe it is for irons only and not pressers.....


It looks like your paper can be used with an iron or a heat press. 

Sometimes you do have to adjust the directions to make it work for you. Alot of folks here read the recommended directions and then toss them. 

Jetpro happens to work perfectly when following the directions. But I do not follow Ironall Darks printed directions.

If you are using the teflon and it is reducing the scorching, I would say it is because it is protecting your fabric from the heat. 

It's up to you, Amor, which way to experiment next, maybe lower the dwell time and increase the pressure a bit to offset the reduced time. Try to change only one variable at a time. 

Are you double checking that the seams aren't preventing the image area from pressing? A piece of cardboard (non corrugated) or a mouse pad will lift the area higher than the seams and ensure the image transfers with enough pressure. Just checking, I don't know if we talked about that yet.

Have you thought about trying your friends settings? Do you have a scrap shirt/pieces that you can experiment with? 

Usually a bit of tweaking and you can find a good temp, time and pressure for most of these papers.

You know which paper I recommend.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

It may be none of my business, but it sounds to me like your press is running hot.

I routinely press mousepads at high pressure, 390 F and for 30-35 seconds with absolutely no scorching...

Your friend pressing at 250 C or approx. 500 F didn't sound right to me either! Way too high...

BTW, hand-held irons can't reach temps like these.

My suggestion is to try decreasing your temp and bumping up the dwell time by a few seconds if any. Another suggestion is to get a digital laser thermometer so you will know at what temp your press _really is_...

Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hey Melissa, how are you today? The Jetstream paper Amor uses recommends for a press 200c/18 seconds, and for hand ironing - it's a whopping 210c.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Funny, I thought irons only went up to about 400 degrees... Anyway, those temps of 200 c for 18 seconds is nothing that should scorch. Like I said, I used 390 for 30 seconds on high pressure, and didn't have a problem...

Melissa


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

Amor, did you ever tried the trick, spraying some water on the shirt after you have print? I still think that the area which was between the platen is much dryer as the unprinted area. spray a little water and it should take away the yellow shining.

Let us know if it works.

Jan


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

angelic_endeavor said:


> My suggestion is to try decreasing your temp and bumping up the dwell time by a few seconds if any. Another suggestion is to get a digital laser thermometer so you will know at what temp your press _really is_...


I have a heat gun coming from the USA but it hasnt arrived as yet so cant really tell till then. I think i have worked it out but need to know the temp for sure.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Jokofix said:


> Amor, did you ever tried the trick, spraying some water on the shirt after you have print? I still think that the area which was between the platen is much dryer as the unprinted area. spray a little water and it should take away the yellow shining.
> 
> Let us know if it works.
> 
> Jan


Hi,

I had tried that but all it di was leave a yellow staine once it dried. The images are comning out right now and i done one today that i sold which didnt scorch. I pressed at medium for 9 seconds at 180c. I had a small image to press at the front too but for some reason that was a struggle and the logo seemed to not stick properly.

Anyway, once my heat temp gun arrives i will have a more accurate measure of the temp. Problem is that i could only find these in the USA and i am in the UK which means a long delivery time and a hefty shipping fee. Almost cost as much as the gun.

Paulo


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

When it did not worked out with wetting the printed area then it must be indeed the temperature in combination with dwell time and pressure. It seems to me however that you have solved it for now with your last print. 

It is now a matter of getting it always the same what is not a big deal once you have measured the real temp.

Good luck and happy printing
Jan


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Amor365 said:


> The images are comning out right now and i done one today that i sold which didnt scorch. I pressed at medium for 9 seconds at 180c


Hey, Amor... good for you, am happy for you.



> Problem is that i could only find these in the USA and i am in the UK which means a long delivery time and a hefty shipping fee. Almost cost as much as the gun. Paulo


annnnd, sorry to hear this. Hopefully it'll pay for itself in unscorched shirts and less loss of inventory -- on the bright side anyway. Still great to hear you've got some success under your belt. I'll stay tuned in to see if you post your press temp findings. Have a nice weekend, best regards.


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## twincedars (Mar 7, 2008)

the heat causes this but it will go away once the shirt cools


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

twincedars said:


> the heat causes this but it will go away once the shirt cools


The scorch marks havent gone once cooled, they only go when you wash them. I tried spaying water but it just gathered the yellow substance to look like a dried wet patch (if you know what i mean).

However, i do think that my paper dont help much. It might well be a cheapo and mainly only made for irons as the green logo must turn orange so that it indicates that the transfer is ready. Can anyone tell me of a good paper to use but at a good cost as I am very low on funds now. The craft robo i got is very good and although the instructions were not user friendly I did work it out very easily. 

So much of it is pretty well worked out just scorching issues (fingers crossed it is worked out now) and paper quality. Fingers crossed, it wont be long now.

By the way, despite the small logo problem I had, the guy was really impressed with the t i made for him and has told me that he will want 20 golf shirts done for summer, so that 1 order for the future already  Makes it worth while now. Just need a few more like that  

Thanks for all your help, i really appreciate it as i want to succeed and not flop and quit like my friend did in a short time. I will keep you posted once the sensor arrives and I have worked out the calculations.

Paulo

P.s. sorry one last question. I know the dark paper get peeled off and face up on the press but is there any other method I should do such as place a special kind of paper on the transfer before the teflon or will it not stick/stain the teflon? Many thanks....


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Amor,

The dark paper usually comes with a kind of paper that is like parchement paper to put over the top of the image, under the teflon. If it didn't come with it, get a roll of baking/parchment paper and use that, it should be okay.

You know we think of Jetpro as the best paper for light transfers. Tshirtsupplies.com will ship international, you just have to email them. They're prices are so low, it is worth paying the shipping. I don't know how much for shipping, but with low retail price on the JP, I assume they will be fair on the shipping. If you check them out, will you let me know if they are fair in International shipping? Thanks so much.

Best regards, and have a nice weekend.

PS: I will send you a few pieces of JP if you want to try it. Just PM your address.


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## im4given (Feb 29, 2008)

Hi, I'm a newbie also, and was wondering if you are using a teflon sheet over your shirt and transfer when you press. I am debating as to buy the teflon sheets myself. All my equipment is in the mail. Best wishes to you.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi loriann 
lot people here do use them I dont use one I feel that transfer stay on better and I dont have to press second time I do use baking/parchment paper if I have to but I have only used this 10 times out of 900 transfers and yes you will have to clean the press after you are done for the day


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi jan just order some of your dark paper going to test it and post it on the new transfer paper I will be off the web untel next week end that is when I will be connocted back up so I will have some time to play with it and give some feed back good or bad hope you will not mind


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

im4given said:


> Hi, I'm a newbie also, and was wondering if you are using a teflon sheet over your shirt and transfer when you press. I am debating as to buy the teflon sheets myself. All my equipment is in the mail. Best wishes to you.


 
Welcome to the forum.

You are able to press without a teflon sheet when doing pigment heat transfers. Some folks do use the parchment/baking paper, or even Silpat style silicone sheets. I do use the teflon because it keeps my upper platen clean from ink, it is a preventive measure to avoid scorching, and I like the finish doing the second press gives to my shirts.

You don't have to do a second press, but after the first press, I remove the release paper - take my shirt off the platen - give it a gentle stretch and re-position it - and re-press with the teflon on top. I have great success with my transfers, so I'm not going to change anything. 

I did find a nice 16x20 teflon sheet for $12.50 a day or two ago. This link is to a website that is by a member here named Roger, planb, is his ID. Nice guy, very helpful. Here's a link to him if you do want the teflon, and can't find it cheaper than at Roger's. Good luck to you. 

Teflon sheet


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks Kelly will do. I'll send you a few sheets of my light and dark paper and see what you think. Like i said earlier, the guy was impressed with the quality but with me being mr. perfect (lol) i was not happy ot at least with the front logo, back was pretty good.

I'll PM you now.

Thanks again.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

*One maybe big problem solved...*

There is something that i didnt mention before and that is that the scorch was in patches and not across the whole platen.

I had realised that the swing arm holding the heat platen lifted up at almost an inch when i closed the press. Then i realised that t he platten slid back at least a 1/4 of an inch if not more. So this could be part of the reason why i was scorching the tees with uneven heat and patches.

Today i examined it and thought damn this and stripped it right down to its skeleton and in pieces. I couldnt believe how basic a heat press really is. I got myself longer bolts to replace the ones that were in the swing arm to the base and placed two metal plates under the base so that it kept the supporting beam up against the base nice and tight with the new bolts. I then adjusted the bracket that held heat platen so that the pressure was more even. After this I replaced everything to their original homes and hey presto! the press dont lift anymore or the platen slide back. 

I do still get a slight lift but only 1/8 of an inch which is far better than before. Also the press and heat seems to be even now as i delibrately scorched an old shirt to see if there was any difference, and good news, it scorched evenly across the shirt.

Lol, I know this might be boring but I thought I would share my good discovery and method of adjustment plus the not so complicated build of a press.

Ummm well thanks for listening to my story but obviously the heat problem isnt sorted yet but will be very soon and then I will be good to go.  Yahooooooo!


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

Is this the first time you act as a renaissance man? My compliment because this may help solving your problem a bit easier.

In this case I would still try once more spraying the fabric with water (but direct after print if it is still HOT)

Wel done.

Jan


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks Jan,

It is still not perfect but allot better than before. I had spoken to my father inlaw and he said that we could even spot weld the bar under the base to the base to strengthen it even more so next weekend I will be going round to his house to get it done. I have also realised that if all fails that I can get rid of the base and bolt the whole lot down onto a heavy duty desk so all is not lost.

*"Is this the first time you act as a renaissance man?" *Lol, this is all very new to me and sometimes things are made to be the way they are but I have learnt allot in the last couple of weeks or so from this forum and also feel more confident to experiment.

Paulo


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Just an update with the heat press scorching issue i have had lately.

Well the non contact heat sensor finally arrived today from the USA and found it very easy to use. The heat press was actaully running too hot. Instead of 200 celcius it was running at 235celcius so i guess that i need to set the temp at 165-170. However, one part of the of the platen did read correctly at 200 celcius which is the back part of the plate and at the center. Is this normal?

Well I have a small order to do now so fingers crossed it will all go well and i will try your tip Jan with the water spray.

Fingers crossed, al will go well and thanks for your help and advice guys, much appreciated...

Paulo


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

your press has problems your heat needs to be the same on the whole top part or you will have same problems needs to be even


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

Paulo, mrdavid is right, there is indeed something not very OK with the press however you may solve the yellowing effect by lower the temperature. Other problem may come up.

I would set the temperature somewhere in the middle of the difference you have measured so that the heat you measure 
will be around 210-215 or something.
Then transfer something on a piece of cloth using the whole or most area of the platen.
use an image with an equal color coverage in the whole area
Watch carefully if you can peel off the support paper from the cloth with the same ease in the whole area.
Finally you can take this piece of cloth to do a couple or a bunch of wash cycles to compare.
What you may find out from this test is:
Stretch the fabric after transfer to see if the inks penetrating into the fabric everywhere equally. (You may see small white spots in certain areas looks alike the fabric shines through)
Wash ability can also be affected in certain areas.
Last but not least you'll find out the best usable area from your press in particular with that certain temperature
Q: Is that a new press and can you not contact your supplier for this issue?

Hope this helps keep you running)

Jan


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Yes, if you can contact your seller, that would be the best.

What brand press is it again? If it's not heating evenly, it sounds like the heating elements aren't working properly, or it's a cheap, ebay-type press. These are the types of problems you will encounter with cheaper presses.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hey Paulo,

If you don't have a warranty on your press, well, you'll have to figure out what to do about that.

Adding onto Jan's advice -- if you follow that - a good way to see if you can find a happy medium to keep pressing successfully until you are able to work it out the uneven heat issue - is to cut up a full sheet transfer into squares that you can spread out on a test shirt, and gage the outcome of pressing in the different areas.

Today is your day, at least for samples, so all is not lost. Sorry to hear of the heat variance.


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## Jokofix (Aug 8, 2007)

I agree with the pieces of transfers around the platen but Paulo, for this one of a time test do not be to frugal!
Reason I say that is because I have seen presses where they most likely once have tried to transfer an image to a boiling ball or similar object.
The platen where totally hollow if you believe me or not I guess the test described as before will give you some indications why the temp difference is a fact.

Jan


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Cutting the pieces up isn't to be frugal, or to save money on transfer sheets.

Cutting the pieces and placing them around the platen is to test how each part of the platten is pressing - in comparison to the other sections.

If Amor finds a time and temp that he has successful wash tests on all 12 pieces, hopeuflly he found out he can press at that time and temp -- and his entire design will be okay. 

If he finds there are certain times and temps that some of the pieces did not transfer well, or if he had a failure in the area of the back part where the temp is low, he knows he can't use that time and temp because part of his transfer will fail in that area.

The cutting into sections is to see how well the different areas are transfering, and to try to find a time and temp that transfers successfully in all of the different areas.

Otherwise, like someone said, if he can't find a time /temp that will work for all the pieces, he'll have to avoid the one area that is too low if he can do that. No worries, I know some people cut transfers to save money, but this method is to test how the different areas press when compared to each other.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Otherwise, like someone said, if he can't find a time /temp that will work for all the pieces, he'll have to avoid the one area that is too low if he can do that. No worries, I know some people cut transfers to save money, but this method is to test how the different areas press when compared to each other.


I had thought of this and now set my tempt to 170-175 celcius but before pressing i checked the platten temp and it read something like 180-184 so the difference is not too much, I have also pressed the transfer for 18 seconds as recomended and no scorching at all at any part of the press plus the platten is quite large, i think it is something like 40x40cm. that cooloer part at the back of the platten is only a small area, not s large as it sounds and i have moved the non contact lazer around the platten and it must be about 5cm at the back center that is the coolest.

I have made a few shirts now and so far no complaints but what Jan and MrDavid have said has got me wondering now if i should do a few more wash tests.

Though saying this, I must admit that I am not all that impressed with the papers I am using, the lights seem to be ok but the darks seem to crack faintly when stretched, think I will need to change these as I dont really fancy any comebacks or complaints on this area. I am expecting a couple of samples soon so fingers crossed


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Paulo 
you may let it warm up for one hour that should get the temp even if you run temp low it should work just let it warm up and when pressing wait 5 mins for the next shirt


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

David, 
I have done that as i thought it was standard. Before i start to print the images I turn the press on and it must be ready for a good 5 -10 minutes before i press my garments. I did buy a cheaper model and had a few issues with it where the arm was that hold the platten was lifting, running hot and so on, but now i know the actual temperature and had modified the machine so it is now very strong, can take very high and even pressures, just that one spot that is cooler. To start with I am now happy but would be buying an upgrade if things go well. I mentioned in one of my other posts that this is my 3rd business venture and unlike the 1st 2 i dont want to spend a huge amount of money testing the market, if all fails then I only lost a bit. LOL after all this is how i ended up in debt so this time round I am cautious though maybe I have learnt something about buying cheaper presses. Like my signature says, _"you can never learn from perfection, only from your mistakes"_ 

Lets hope i have hit the right industry this time round.

Thanks for your help and advice with your concerns, much appreciated.

Paulo


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I sure hope you can find a happy medium for your press temp that will prevent scorching and also give you good presses. 

Once you start making some money in this business, if you find that you enjoy it, you can later upgrade to a name-brand press that will give you good readings on temperature.

Just don't let your press frustrate you into quitting this business. Who knows...you may be able to find a good deal on a used name-brand press, too! That way you can get a good press at a decent price. Check ebay or Craig's List from time to time (I believe Craig's List has a London section), and you may find an incredible deal! 

No matter what happens, when you're able to buy a quality press, you'll be able to make any shirt you want, even if it's just for you. 

Good luck! I love your problem solving abilities!


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

Chani said:


> Good luck! I love your problem solving abilities!


Lol Chani, I enjoyed solving these problems that might make me sound like an anorak (not sure how you spell this) but it was interesting to see how it works, strip it down and rebuild it after re-enforcing.

Lol, if anything, i could buy a load of cheap heat presses, amend them and sell them on. Hmmm thats an idea....


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