# Laser mugs question



## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi everyone


I have a Tektronix Phaser 740 color laser, with OEM toner, which I will use to transfer to mugs, using Mugs'n more transfer paper.
Now I have not seen many sites that offer mugs for laser printer, most of them say for sublimation inkjet only, and therefore I am limited to a few sources for mugs and only to 11oz mugs !
Am I missing something? Like not understanding completely the concept of sublimation? I do thing I understand the sublimation process, but do I need a mug with a different coating for laser and another for ink jet? or just different transfer paper? I did check dye-sub.org, also coastalbusiness has some information too, but still it is not clear to me. Should I switch to a C88+ with dye sub ink? 
I am new to this, and this forum has been of an incredible help to me.
Anyone using laser printer to transfer to mugs?


Thank you


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

I don't think you can use the OEM toner for dye sub mugs.

Hopefully someone else here will have a more in depth answer now that I've moved this thread to the dye sub forum.


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

Thanks Rodney... so I'll stop trying and failing in getting my mugs right.
I trashed about 14 or so already !!
I've been using my kitchen oven, an electric one, then I was told by a Coastal Business Supply that my wrap wasn't pressing well enough.
Yesterday I received a mug press I bought on ebay last week.
Still no luck. I will post later some pictures of my horror gallery (the mugs, of course).
Thank you for moving the thread...

Help Help ...

P.s there is another box of 36 mugs in my living room...besides the half empty box is in my office !!


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

marcelo...I have been doing dye sub for a long time...but only with inkjet. I am not aware of any color laser with OEM toner doing dye sub. I know of some who are using dye sub toner in their laser printers...but never OEM.

In short I am pretty sure you CANNOT do dye sub with the equipment listed.If I am wrong someone will pull my foot from my mouth

dye sub does require special ink/paper/polymer coated material (or polyester) to take the image.

with inkjets and I assume with lasers..your printed image is dull but when exposed to heat/pressure it will turn out great

Also I checked on your printer and my group is not aware it can be used for dye sub. 

The only source I know for dye sub toner for lasers is colorstarink.com and they only have toner carts for some Oki, Ricoh and Konica Minolta. and they cost around 300 per color...so..$1200 or so.

If you have further questions, email me


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Hello
Not sure if I am helping out or not. If I read and understood right
if your using OEM toner thats not sublimation. Thats laser to hardgoods. (not sure if there is a actual name for it)

I have been reading up on the hardgood papers and OEM toner myself on the DSSI forums.
(DSSI).

Most of them use the VersaTrans or JBL paper. The paper you have has never been mentioned by anyone doing the hardgoods in my research.
Oki lasers are the most popular ones it seems to be used for this type of work.

There are several suppliers listed in the threads of non sub coated mugs. However if your using OEM toner you should be able to use any non coated mug/tile/metal.

Good Luck
Mark


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

The Mugs n'More paper distributed by Coastal (and others) does claim to be designed for using OEM laser toner to transfer to special "laser mugs." I've never tried it myself, and this is the first review that I've heard.

As for finding other sources for these mugs, I've done a bit of searching and all the suppliers seem to be selling the same 11 oz mugs. Could be others, but I haven't found them.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Heres a mug that is suppose to be for laser OEM transfer.

Matte finish mugs for laser The Matte Finish is a glazed mug from China designed for use with OEM laser toners and special transfer sheets for hard goods. The actual dimensions are 11 oz mugs 3" diameter by 3 11/16", 13 oz mugs 3 1/4" diameter by 3 7/8" tall and 15 oz mugs are 3 1/8" by 4 1/2" tall. Please note that these mugs are not coated and not suitable for regular sublimation.

Dye Sublimation Products, Blank Imprintables and Accessories - Paramount Services

Good Luck
Mark


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

freebird1963 said:


> Heres a mug that is suppose to be for laser OEM transfer.


I'm pretty sure that's the same 11 oz mug the original poster was talking about.


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## cprvh (Jan 23, 2006)

Marcelo,

You are correct. The laser OEM and dye sublimation are two completely different processes. The mugs, ink/toners and papers are specific to each process and are not interchangable. You should have the correct mugs and paper. Are you post curing the mugs to harden the toner? What specific problem are you having?

Certain toners work better than others...I know a lot recommend the OKI's. I would give your suppliers a call and discuss your results. They should be able to point you in the right direction.


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

Thanks you all guys for your answers.
Actually I did print on the mugs with the OEM toner, the problem is that the edges won't get correctly done. I was going to try with a text only mug, but I didn't have time tonight.
With the mug wrap the toner, most of the time, won't transfer to the mug, now with the mug press it does, a Coastal rep told me laser mugs need more pressure than sub mugs.
It just got some kind of texture on the colors, like a random pattern, you can feel it, and is has nothing to do with the mug press, I'll keep trying and post the results.
The pink mug, if you look at it close, it look really nice, smooth, except for the edges. And it is not always in the same place.
Well, I TRULY appreciate your help guys.
Thank you.


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.

Something to ponder?

I've been doing OEM toner tiles and mugs for some time and have never had to buy special mugs or tiles. I have on occasion used the sublimation mugs but, that was a time crunch situation and was all I had on hand.

I buy "uncoated" mugs and my tiles come from Lowes.

The edge situation I can only relate to pressure differences to the outer edges of your press. I use wraps personaly. Didn't help much did I?

Bill


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

patchmaster said:


> Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.


Yeah, I come to realize that the wrap is not pressing evenly, or because of the edges of that particular kind of mug (manufacturer) and there is not much I can do, I guess, except not to print colors all the way up to the edges.



patchmaster said:


> Didn't help much did I?


 Of course you did help me ! thank you and to all those who spent their time 
answering clueless people like me.


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## Ernie (Nov 2, 2007)

patchmaster said:


> Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.
> 
> Something to ponder?
> 
> ...


Bill,

Mind sharing which printer and which transfer paper you are using for oem laser toner mugs and tiles?

Ernie


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## cochise (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: Laser mugs success*

I use paper produced by "The Magic Touch USA". They have the best laser paper on the market and I have printed hunderds of mugs and other "hard" items using their paper. The site also contains a "compatibility check" where you can ebter your laser mfg and model number. The system will tell you exactly what paper to use for the toners in your printer.

The member with the unprinted edge issue, increase the pressure, don't print any closer than 3/8" top and bottom of the mug. I have to use spacers to CENTER the mug, 15 or 11 ounce in my Hotronix press. Using a sleve of Teflon between the presses rubber element and the mug helps a little also.

Ken


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: Laser mugs success*



cochise said:


> I use paper produced by "The Magic Touch USA". They have the best laser paper on the market and I have printed hunderds of mugs and other "hard" items using their paper. The site also contains a "compatibility check" where you can ebter your laser mfg and model number. The system will tell you exactly what paper to use for the toners in your printer.
> 
> The member with the unprinted edge issue, increase the pressure, don't print any closer than 3/8" top and bottom of the mug. I have to use spacers to CENTER the mug, 15 or 11 ounce in my Hotronix press. Using a sleve of Teflon between the presses rubber element and the mug helps a little also.
> 
> Ken


Thank you for your input.
I was having some (just some) success trying a lower temperature in my press, and the colors now look much better.
To add to the confusion, Coastal Business web site states that the paper, Mugs n' More have to be pressed at 250F for 120 seconds, then the instructions that come with Mugs 'n More says 400F for 180 seconds.

I think 250 for 120 seconds work Ok.


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## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: Laser mugs success*

The 400 deg. temp would be for dyesub transfers and would probably be way too hot for laser transfers. I have used the Versatrans paper and my temperature for tiles and magnets is 250. The edges are extremely tricky and take a lot of trial and error to get right. I have found that I have to let it cool and be very careful when peeling the paper on the edges. Some people have even tried wetting the paper . In case you are interested Duracotton has a paper they claim will work with coated mugs and laser OEM toner. It may be worth checking into.


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: Laser mugs success*



BRC said:


> The 400 deg. temp would be for dyesub transfers and would probably be way too hot for laser transfers. I have used the Versatrans paper and my temperature for tiles and magnets is 250. The edges are extremely tricky and take a lot of trial and error to get right. I have found that I have to let it cool and be very careful when peeling the paper on the edges. Some people have even tried wetting the paper . In case you are interested Duracotton has a paper they claim will work with coated mugs and laser OEM toner. It may be worth checking into.



You are right, I tried at 250 and it seems to work.


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

Today I told to a Coastal Business rep about the discrepancy I found about the Mug 'n more paper info in their web site and in the instructions that came with Mugs 'n More package.
In the web site it stated that the mug press has to be set at 250F for 120 sec. and in the instruction sheet it says mug press 400F for 180 sec.
After I told her about this, I received an email with new instructions from the manufacturer: 250F for 50 sec.
I'll try some mugs tonight.


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## Th3j3rk (Nov 9, 2010)

I have a whole bunch of Sublimation coated mugs just sitting here collecting dust.. will the mugs n more laser transfer paper work on these mugs..? I also have a D3 mug press that i haven't even used yet.. everything was given to me.. i found that sublimation ink was too expensive and for t-shirts i use some laser self weeding paper and JPSS for my inkjet printer. If this paper works for sublimation coated mugs that would be great.. does anyone have any pictures of this paper on sublimation coated mugs that they can post please.. because i'd really like to use these mugs i have!!!


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