# I want to print Plastisol Heat Transfers



## javierfdez7

Hello:
Although I have more than 15 years of experience in Screen Printing on t-shirts, I want to start making Plastisol Heat Transfers, and I really don't know where to start, so here is a few questions for you guys:

1) Which Ink brand has the best quality of Plastisol Inks for transfers, ( I understand that this is different ink, not the same for direct printing.)

2) What is the best Transfer Paper for plastisol inks? I will like to have both, glossy and mate finish.

3) Do I have to use Powder adhesive? or is there a "Screenable" adhesive?

My specialty is 4 color process, and I want to do the same, but on heat transfers.

I will appreciate any help from you.
Thank you.


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## Jasonda

This article might be helpful:

http://www.unionink.com/articles/transfer.html


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## sgrant26

You should also check with the Lancer group in North Dakota. They help you decide what the best inks and paper should be used for your procedure.


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## wormil

We just jumped in and started printing them with the Union ink we used for t-shirts. This was over a decade ago and I don't remember the paper. We did use an adhesive powder. It wasn't as big a deal as it seemed, it just took some experimentation. Keep track of what you do and make sure to test the shirts thoroughly before committing to customer orders.


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## cybtec

I finally worked out Plastisol transfers. 
I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED. 
I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
You will need the adhesive power too.
Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash. 
Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
This works for me, hope it helps.


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## Iprint04

cybtec said:


> I finally worked out Plastisol transfers.
> I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
> I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED.
> I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
> So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
> First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
> I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
> You will need the adhesive power too.
> Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash.
> Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
> This works for me, hope it helps.


 
sorry for bumping this thread.i just started pressing plastisol transfers and i would like to know if i still need to cure it or not anymore?if i do,can i cure it with another series of pressing?some edges were peeled off after peeling of the transfer paper and smudges from my first presses were a bit of a downer.

also im pressing at 385 deg* with high pressure for 10 seconds and some inks arent fully transferred from the paper to the shirt from a hot split.am i doing anything wrong?btw im using a hotronix auto open 16x20 press and im sure the temp and pressure read are pretty accurate.

i hope someone would be able to give me some pointers on these issues.


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## thutch15

Iprint04 said:


> sorry for bumping this thread.i just started pressing plastisol transfers and i would like to know if i still need to cure it or not anymore?if i do,can i cure it with another series of pressing?some edges were peeled off after peeling of the transfer paper and smudges from my first presses were a bit of a downer.
> 
> also im pressing at 385 deg* with high pressure for 10 seconds and some inks arent fully transferred from the paper to the shirt from a hot split.am i doing anything wrong?btw im using a hotronix auto open 16x20 press and im sure the temp and pressure read are pretty accurate.
> 
> i hope someone would be able to give me some pointers on these issues.


What temp are you curing the transfers at? You only want to flash the transfer and not cure it at the normal 300-320 temp. It will get its final cure when you press it on the shirt.


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## Iprint04

thutch15 said:


> What temp are you curing the transfers at? You only want to flash the transfer and not cure it at the normal 300-320 temp. It will get its final cure when you press it on the shirt.


 im not really making these transfers.i bought it from starline pacific.so does that mean i dont need to cure it at all after pressing?

thanks in advance


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## thutch15

Iprint04 said:


> im not really making these transfers.i bought it from starline pacific.so does that mean i dont need to cure it at all after pressing?
> 
> thanks in advance


No you dont have to cure a shirt after the transfer is pressed on. The curing happens during the pressing.


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## cybtec

I've never had any success with hotsplit, I got the same result as you. I only use HotPeel. I've been told that if you use the plastisol ink made for transfers then cold peel and hotsplit will work, but I've learn, NEVER TAKE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ANYONE THAT HASN'T ACTUALLY DID IT THEMSELVES!


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## Iprint04

thutch15 said:


> No you dont have to cure a shirt after the transfer is pressed on. The curing happens during the pressing.


thanks for the answer that definitely makes sense.also if you could also point out the difference between hot split and hot peel that would be very helpful as well.

@cybtec - i feel you bro.but these transfers were actually on their walls as demo products.i was amazed actually so i gave it a try 'til i hit a bottom today with these ones.i will get myself a temp gun soon to check my platen's temp just to make sure they are really at around 380 to 385 degrees.i have a suspicion though that maybe my pressure reader isnt that accurate at all.since its really easy to press at high pressure which is at 9 unless hotronix' are made just like that.


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## cybtec

Hotsplit does something like a 70/30 split, 70% transfers ands 30% stays on the paper, hot peel dumps all the ink onto the t-shirt.


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## MISCREENS

cybtec said:


> I finally worked out Plastisol transfers.
> I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
> I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED.
> I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
> So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
> First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
> I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
> You will need the adhesive power too.
> Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash.
> Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
> This works for me, hope it helps.


When you say don't flash. But then cure but don't over cure at what degrees do you recommend? Also will these transfer sheets work on polyester?


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## jayeasy

I use the "french paper", (T-75) but I only do 1 color's at the moment. I use 110 mesh for prints that will go on dark garments, and 160 mesh for prints that will go on light. Coat the screens 1-1, use the rounder side of your scoop coater on the print side.. After the print, coat with adhesive, shake off excess, then run through the dryer on a much faster setting (I like the temp around 200 but not too much higher). 

On the heat press, I press firm for 30 seconds. You can hot split the french paper but for higher opacity on darks I cold peel. Be sure to flick the paper to get rid of any stray adhesive crystals as a clump will show on dark shirts. 

I haven't done any fine detail prints using this method, or tried multiple colors yet, but I know it can be done, just watch this video of a 9-color transfer being printed: pretty good stuff!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQNH41_9i2Q[/media]


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## jayeasy

MISCREENS said:


> When you say don't flash. But then cure but don't over cure at what degrees do you recommend? Also will these transfer sheets work on polyester?


100% poly is a pain because of dye migration, but if you print transfers with low bleed inks my guess is it should be okay? Don't quote me on that though.


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## infopub

I have been doing my own transfers for the last few months, I LOVE IT!!! I don't think I will ever direct print on a shirt again. So far, I have only done single colors. I want to try a multi-color job. Do you also use the powder adhesive on multi-color jobs or is there a printable adhesive?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Dan


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## valleyboy_1

Hey guys, thought I jump in to add a little more to this topic just to get some insights. So much to say I don't know where to begin. Anyhow, I've been looking at making my own plastisol transfers. Starting with a 1 color. Because the transfers have to have adhesive powder to work, I've been trying to figure out a way to automate the process of applying adhesive powder, as well as direct print onto the transfer paper. I came across two pieces of equipment. One is a chinese made table top mini screen printer automatic press, and the other is a thermography machine. The mini screen printer is small enough to automatically direct print plastisol transfers, and the thermography machine has a conveyor and which the transfers can be ran through the powder and if you remove the heating element that comes with the machine, and put a flash dryer over it, you can flash gel your transfers and there's also a fan that allows for cooling the transfers. I will attach videos and website address to the machines I've discovered. Let me know what you guys think.

Mini screen printer
Mini Vacuum Flat Screen Printer , New Style

Thermography machine
Sunraise thermographers provide quality machines for over 30 years!!

mini screen printer video
Mini Flat Screen Printer with Vacuum Table, New Style - YouTube

powder applicator for transfers
Sunraise. Inc. Tabletop Thermographer - YouTube


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## valleyboy_1

Table Top Demo 1 - YouTube
here's another video of the tabletop thermography machine. Again, we can remove the heater on there and put a flash dryer over it for gel plastisol transfers, what do you guys think of this process instead of a conveyor dryer?


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## wormil

valleyboy_1 said:


> Because the transfers have to have adhesive powder to work,


Transfers work fine without powder which just allows you to press at a lower temperature.


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## valleyboy_1

Seems like everyone is recommending the powder...


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## infopub

valleyboy_1 said:


> Seems like everyone is recommending the powder...


I haven't tried it without the powder yet, however I have a transfer job already setup on my press, next week when I get time, I am going to print about a half dozen without the powder just to test and see how it works.

Currently I am using the UltraStrip 3000 Transfer paper from Ace and I get 100% transfer of the ink with the powder. I think a couple of months ago, I had one that didn't transfer completely and that is out of about 500 sheets. By the way, I am using the same plastisol ink that I use for screen printing directly to shirts.

The thing I need right now is a Vacuum Platen, I was real bummed out to learn that PWNCNC.com was no longer in business. I refuse to pay $600.00 for one, I have been planning to try my hand at building one, but I just AM NOT that good with stuff like that.

After I do my test I will post the results.

I read somewhere else about someone using a thermography machine for heat transfers. I have a buddy that had one, I think I will check with him and see if he still has it. I would check the heater and see how hot it gets, It might be hot enough the melt the adhesive powder, if my buddy still has his I am going to see if he will sell it to me and I will let you know if it works for me.

As for the automatic press, if i remember correctly it will only do 7" X 11" and that wouldn't be large enough for my needs.

Thanks
Danny


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## rence12

I just started doing DYI transfers, and from these threads, I saw where people are using, parchment paper, first I gel the ink using a flash dryer, then pre heat the shirt, press transfer med to heavy pressure, 375 degrees , 20 secs , and hot peel , when all is cool , I notice that I'm able to pick the ink off with my finger nail, not easy to peel, but nevertheless I can Peel it , is this normal ? I doesn't peel but I can somewhat pick or scratch the ink off


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## wormil

rence, 20 seconds is a long time. You should be down around 10. This may help.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/plastisol-transfers/t176601.html


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## rence12

Thanks ill give a try


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## BoydRiver

I am currently researching doing transfers using a one colour set up, is anyone using a heat press to partially cure the transfers please?


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## angippp

BoydRiver said:


> I am currently researching doing transfers using a one colour set up, is anyone using a heat press to partially cure the transfers please?


yes that's how i do it, screen print the transfer, put it on the heat press platen, screen the next transfer, once that's done the first transfer has jelled, repeat.


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## BoydRiver

angippp said:


> yes that's how i do it, screen print the transfer, put it on the heat press platen, screen the next transfer, once that's done the first transfer has jelled, repeat.


Thanks,
what gap do you leave please between the platen and the heat plate?
Oh and welcome to the forum.


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## angippp

I have a swing press and leave it open, so around 3" i think - and thanks


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## BoydRiver

I have a g.kight swing away, so thanks.


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## infopub

On the peeling issue, check your gel temp with a laser thermometer, you might be over curing it. If you get it to hot during the gel phase it wont stick to the shirt good. Watch the video below on you tube. This guy goes thru the whole process giving temps and all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDnZs4M_5Tk&list=PL-JQ8WtNCgpB0kdLFtVKU0k7uWaVyhRle

I follow this guys instructions to the letter and my transfers turn out perfect. I highly recommend that you get the premium transfer paper, it works great. Below is a link for where I get mine.

UltraStrip 3000 Hot Peel Paper

$10.00 for 100 sheets and it is worth every penny. I have learned over the years, you can cost yourself a lot of time and money trying to save money with shortcuts and not using the proper equipment and supplies.

I hope this helps, I do all my shirts with transfers now. I just got a contract job for 100 shirts with full back and a left chest design and i am doing it with transfers.

Thanks
Danny


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## BoydRiver

Thanks Danny, I will check out the video and the paper and see if I can get it here in the UK.

It is interesting that you do all your shirts via transfer, I had thought that transfers were used to press, say your 100 shirts, individually over time. Like a t-shirt shop in the high street does where the customer has a choice of designs.

I think I see where you coming from though, if you make a mistake printing on a piece of paper, you haven't ruined a shirt.


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## angippp

BoydRiver said:


> Thanks Danny, I will check out the video and the paper and see if I can get it here in the UK.


Boyd, Tescos greese proof paper £1.50 for 15 meters.


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## BoydRiver

angippp said:


> Boyd, Tescos greese proof paper £1.50 for 15 meters.


Seriously? Does that give you a cold peel or a hot peel please?


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## angippp

yep seriously, I let it cool till warm, but you can hot peel it ( or is it split peel?) straight from the press.

here is an example, using the reverse side for a more matt finish http://sdrv.ms/11dbwGw


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## infopub

BoydRiver said:


> Thanks Danny, I will check out the video and the paper and see if I can get it here in the UK.
> 
> It is interesting that you do all your shirts via transfer, I had thought that transfers were used to press, say your 100 shirts, individually over time. Like a t-shirt shop in the high street does where the customer has a choice of designs.
> 
> I think I see where you coming from though, if you make a mistake printing on a piece of paper, you haven't ruined a shirt.


Sorry Boyd, i didn't realize you are in the UK. The paper I use feels like it has a light silicone treatment. I get 100% transfer with it. It cost like .10 for a 12.5" X 14" sheet, and I love the way it works.

The mistakes is one reason I do transfers. Another is I think it is easier to print on paper than shirts. I'm not as healthy as I used to be and seems like I can print transfer easier. Doesn't seem to kill my back as bad.

When I was trying to learn to do transfers, I searched everywhere for information and couldn't find much that was easy to understand. That video helped me more than anything.

I just added a nice aluminum vacuum pallet to my press. Picked it up on Ebay new and with the vacuum pump for $350.00, haven't had the time to use it yet, that will help a lot. I was just using the tacky stuff on my pallet and it tends to get on the back of the transfers and if you're not careful it gets on your press and causes a mess.

Hope I was able to help.
Danny


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## infopub

angippp said:


> yep seriously, I let it cool till warm, but you can hot peel it ( or is it split peel?) straight from the press.
> 
> here is an example, using the reverse side for a more matt finish http://sdrv.ms/11dbwGw


Nice shirt, looks really good. I'm not familiar with "_grease proof paper" _is that like Wax paper?


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## angippp

hi Danny, ive looked this up before and I think your waxed paper has actual wax coating that can melt on the press, we dont have it in the uk, 
this is greaseproof paper Greaseproof paper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## BoydRiver

infopub said:


> Sorry Boyd, i didn't realize you are in the UK.
> 
> Danny


Hi Danny, Greaseproof paper. Ask your mum or your wife or someone that lines pans that go in the oven when they are cooking.
That's the stuff.
Thanks for pointing out I hadn't said where I was, I added mto my location in the usercp. Thanks.

Angi, nice shirt got any others, being a one colour press owner, was it hard to do two colours please?


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## angippp

hi ya, thanks, im new to screen printing so dont have that much to show. 
The beauty of transfers is that you only need a one colour press, just do your first colour, gell, then line up your second screen etc, and do your next colour. i print the full design on paper, stick down to the patten, then as the paper is transparent you can see where i needs to sit.


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## valleyboy_1

Yes it's true you can get by with a one station press, but I rather buy a really good heat press, pay to have my designs done for me professionally, and take them on the road with me and count $$$$$. Like Bryon McCane said, "Gotta make that money man, it's still the same, steady runnin them things wildddddddd"


Blood, Sweat, and Vinyl Cutters!


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## BoydRiver

angippp said:


> hi ya, thanks, im new to screen printing so dont have that much to show.
> The beauty of transfers is that you only need a one colour press, just do your first colour, gell, then line up your second screen etc, and do your next colour. i print the full design on paper, stick down to the patten, then as the paper is transparent you can see where i needs to sit.


Thanks...............................................


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## BoydRiver

valleyboy_1 said:


> Yes it's true you can get by with a one station press, but I rather buy a really good heat press, pay to have my designs done for me professionally, and take them on the road with me and count $$$$$. Like Bryon McCane said, "Gotta make that money man, it's still the same, steady runnin them things wildddddddd"
> 
> 
> Blood, Sweat, and Vinyl Cutters!


Cheers bud, I fancy that. I just have to practice first to get to your level.


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## infopub

OK I got you now, it's like parchment paper used for baking. I had 2 years of commercial foods training but never heard it called greaseproof paper. I have heard of others using parchment, never tried it myself.

I actually have a four station 6 color press, but only use 1 station and very seldom use more than one print head. I have actually though about getting rid of my press and getting a one color one station just to save the space. I would love to have a once color automatic but couldn't afford it.

Two color transfers seem like they would be simple to do. I already use thick card stock to get all my transfers in the same position of the sheets, that would keep everything in registration, especially now that i have the vacuum platen. I am going to have to try a two color.


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## angippp

Hi Danny, no its not quite like baking parchment, baking parchment has some absorbency so can stick to the ink while pressing. 

I suppose it could be used for hot split transfers, but when ive tried to cold peel it Ive had to wet the paper to get it of with some inks. Greaseproof feels like it has a silicon coating, but as you can see from its wiki page its just how its finished


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## infopub

OK guys, though I would post my test results. I finally tested the transfers without using the powder adhesive tonight and they turned out perfect, used the same plastisol that I used for printing directly to garments. Pressed at 350 for 10 seconds with pressure of 8 on the Hotronix Fusion. I think it is the quality of the paper that makes the difference. This paper has something like a silicon treatment which gives a 100% transfer of the ink. I am about to print 100 transfers for an order, I am going to do them without the powder.

My new vacuum platen worked like w**res dream  OH MAN I love it, wish I had bought one years ago, it would have saved me a bunch of pain.

I just closed my store front and moved everything back to my garage and basement. I have been really busy lately, but when I get time I will be doing some new stuff, multi-color transfers and I will post pics and results. Hope to hear more about you guys experiences. I have learned a lot from the people on this and other forums, it is great when we share knowledge, it just makes us all better.

Did anyone ever try using a heat press for curing the ink after printing? I would be interested in the results. I have a second older heat press I could use. I think it would speed up my production. I can never get my transfers to stack coming off the end of the conveyer dryer, they end up all over the floor. Its a pain in the A** running back and forth.

Thanks
Danny


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## angippp

agree 100% on results depending on paper used, i cure my transfers under an open swing press, print 1 move under press, print next, take out first transfer , repeat.


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## rence12

I used parchment paper and when doing more than 1 color , it's a Lil tricky as the paper will shrink and wrinkle which can sometimes making it a Lil hard when applying the second color, I've even tried preheating the paper prior also 
I started using adhesive powder too, which seem to work better, I know that I got some advice to to shorten my curing time on the press to 10 seconds haven't tried it yet.but what temp are you guys using when doing it without adhesive powder, just curious ? He's a simple 2 color I did it came out ok .


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## rence12

Here's a 1 color I did


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## infopub

rence12 said:


> I used parchment paper and when doing more than 1 color , it's a Lil tricky as the paper will shrink and wrinkle which can sometimes making it a Lil hard when applying the second color, I've even tried preheating the paper prior also
> I started using adhesive powder too, which seem to work better, I know that I got some advice to to shorten my curing time on the press to 10 seconds haven't tried it yet.but what temp are you guys using when doing it without adhesive powder, just curious ? He's a simple 2 color I did it came out ok .


Hey Rence, Shirt looks really good. I hope my first two color turns out that well. I press my transfers at 350 with or without powder.


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## rence12

Thank you , but let me add that I had Lil problems when doing a cure to get between the first and second color, it seemed like even though It felt gelled , laying the white on top of the red It wasn't gelled enough therefore the white wouldn't coat well sometimes, and again with parchment paper it would wrinkle between colors, but again I was gelling with a heat gun, ( as I don't have a conveyor dryer) so I'm gonna preheat the paper first as others mentioned, and then use my flash dryer to gel , Ill see what happens


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## cowboylife

I am doing some transfers for an upcoming event and I have a question for John.... in your experience with the hot peel (which is what I will be doing), and you use 2 color do you have to flash between the colors? 

Thanks,
Rhonda


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## royster13

cowboylife said:


> I am doing some transfers for an upcoming event and I have a question for John.... in your experience with the hot peel (which is what I will be doing), and you use 2 color do you have to flash between the colors?
> 
> Thanks,
> Rhonda


I am sorry to say this sounds like a "recipe for disaster"......

Making plastisol transfers is a skill that takes time to acquire......Yet you are going to try and make your own for an upcoming event....Why would you take a chance like this versus buying them from a vendor who has years and sometimes decades of experience printing transfers?.....

Sorry to be rude but I just do not get it....


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## cowboylife

My transfers are one color (some with rhinestones)and they have turned out fine, they transfer nice but I only use the hot peel. I am just thinking of doing a couple that are 2 color as well. 

Thanks,
Rhonda


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## BoydRiver

Royster, I can see your point about Rhonda moving up a gear so close to an event without doing some practice. As for suggesting people should buy transfers from established vendors, yes I understand that it might be preferable to do so if one needed a high quantity in a short time.
However, these same vendors were once novices at transfer making and I think that's the point of the questions in the thread. So I get her question.

Rhonda, If the event is really close I would echo Roysters suggestion that maybe looking at getting them done by a vendor might fill a gap (depending on costs of course).
I don't know the answer to your question but this video might be of interest to you as it was to me when thinking about making more than one colour.
Of course some may have already seen it so my apologies if you have.
Plastisol Transfer 9 color - YouTube


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## angippp

Not seen that one, but a link on the side is what got me to try transfers using grease proof paper - hes actually using wax paper, id forgotten that when answering the paper question earlier 
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAX6PVo3NWg[/media]


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## infopub

royster13 said:


> I am sorry to say this sounds like a "recipe for disaster"......
> 
> Making plastisol transfers is a skill that takes time to acquire......Yet you are going to try and make your own for an upcoming event....Why would you take a chance like this versus buying them from a vendor who has years and sometimes decades of experience printing transfers?.....
> 
> Sorry to be rude but I just do not get it....


Royster

Have you ever personally tried to print transfers? At one time I believed people like you were right. I kept watching videos etc and decided to try it for myself, I have been printing transfers for myself for over a year. I just finished a job of 100 pieces, had a left chest and a full back. No problem at all. If you watch the videos on you tube that I posted a link for it gives the temps. Follow the instructions and you shouldn't have a problem.


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## royster13

infopub said:


> Royster
> 
> Have you ever personally tried to print transfers? At one time I believed people like you were right. I kept watching videos etc and decided to try it for myself, I have been printing transfers for myself for over a year. I just finished a job of 100 pieces, had a left chest and a full back. No problem at all. If you watch the videos on you tube that I posted a link for it gives the temps. Follow the instructions and you shouldn't have a problem.


Been years since I made any myself (or screen printed myself)......And these days I can buy them so "cheap" I can not justify printing my own...


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## infopub

F & M is about the cheapest at .15 each (NO GANGING) single image only, then you add the 20.00 setup and the shipping and you are at $55.00 for 100 transfers. I just did 100 gang sheet transfers 2 different images and the cost was about $30.00, so I saved myself about $80.00. I guess its all in preference. I'm all about keeping my money for myself.


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## rence12

I know one thing for sure, if your going to do a DIY vacuum press MAKE SURE IT'S FLAT AND LEVEL, AND SMOOTH, I'm gonna try and buy from Dowling they have a $50 set up ( 1 time Per project ) and then you can put your design on whatever size sheet they have a for example 13x23 and I can fit sometimes up to 7 images like my BTA shirt I posted above ( color) and for 25 sheets it'll cost me a Lil over $125 and I can get enough to make about 175 shirts ( 2 color). What I was told by a rep


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## rence12

Wow just read your reply on FM I'm going to check them out thanks


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## cowboylife

what is the website for these guys?


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## royster13

What guys?.....


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## rence12

Are you referring to FM, im not sure but if you google 
*F&M Expressions, *

you should be able to find them
theres also www.[B]dowling[/B]graphics.com


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## wormil

As someone who has both printed and bought transfers, give yourself plenty of time for practice. To answer the question, we ran transfers through the dryer between colors, I suppose a flash could also work but I've never tried it. Transfers are great but when they go wrong it's almost always catastopically. Even companies with years of experience screw them up from time to time.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using T-Shirt Forums


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## rence12

Man I thought I had it figured out , my 1 color transfer so far are doing well , it's my 2 color I'm having problems with , here's what I'm doing ( oh I'm using parchment paper, but I do have transfer paper from ryonet, I just haven't used it yet) 
So first I print the blue , them get until dry to touch, then I print my second which is white, and use the powder. Now some I do a light cure and some I didn't after the powder.
Now I set my press to 375 press for 10 secs, peeled and it seemed to be ok , then I get a call from grandma to say that my grandson was sad because one his letters started peeling off,
So this morning before work I went in the garage printed a shirt and it seemed to transfer ok , so just for the heck of it I put a piece of parchment paper to heat it again ( same print ) and a Lil of the blue showed on the paper , so just for the heck of it i pressed it again and this time nothing came off . And clue ???? T what I doing wrong


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## royster13

How are you curing them?......It is vital to cure them evenly across the surface for just the right amount of time......A second or two too little or too much and you have problems.....


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## rence12

Well if your referring to the final cure its with a heat press, as far gelling I'm using a heat gun , but. Do have a flash dryer,


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## rence12

Could it be that I'm not gelling long enough or too long, cause as I mentioned just for the heck after I did a transfer, I put a piece a piece of parchment paper and th first time some of the ink came of and the second time NO ink came off, hers a pic


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## royster13

rence12 said:


> Well if your referring to the final cure its with a heat press, as far gelling I'm using a heat gun , but. Do have a flash dryer,


I do not make my own transfers.....Stopping printing my own in 1980 and have been happy to outsource ever since....

As far as your methods, good luck!.......When you attempt to do something that requires a lot of accuracy and you are not using the proper tools for the job....So the end result will always be inconsistent.....


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## rence12

I think your right I'm not having problems with my 1 color , so more than likely I'm going outside for nothing more that 1 color 
Thanks


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## rence12

Ha I meant for anything more than 1 color


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## infopub

rence12 said:


> Man I thought I had it figured out , my 1 color transfer so far are doing well , it's my 2 color I'm having problems with , here's what I'm doing ( oh I'm using parchment paper, but I do have transfer paper from ryonet, I just haven't used it yet)
> So first I print the blue , them get until dry to touch, then I print my second which is white, and use the powder. Now some I do a light cure and some I didn't after the powder.
> Now I set my press to 375 press for 10 secs, peeled and it seemed to be ok , then I get a call from grandma to say that my grandson was sad because one his letters started peeling off,
> So this morning before work I went in the garage printed a shirt and it seemed to transfer ok , so just for the heck of it I put a piece of parchment paper to heat it again ( same print ) and a Lil of the blue showed on the paper , so just for the heck of it i pressed it again and this time nothing came off . And clue ???? T what I doing wrong


Hey Rence, get yourself a laser thermometer and use your flash for all your curing, forget the heat gun. Use the laser to make sure your temp is correct. I haven't done more than one color but I do my one color this way except I use a conveyer dryer. Your flash dryer would do a better job and should at least give you consistent heat. If you are using powder you should cure after applying the powder. Your paper from Ryonet would probably give you a better print than the parchment.

The main thing, DON'T GIVE UP. You will get it right.


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## rence12

yeah thanks everyone for all the help , i love this forum. Funny the very first forum i joined , it was a music forum and i was typing in all upper case and almost got kicked off for yelling ha


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## BoydRiver

infopub said:


> Hey Rence, get yourself a laser thermometer and use your flash for all your curing, forget the heat gun. Use the laser to make sure your temp is correct. I haven't done more than one color but I do my one color this way except I use a conveyer dryer. Your flash dryer would do a better job and should at least give you consistent heat. If you are using powder you should cure after applying the powder. Your paper from Ryonet would probably give you a better print than the parchment.
> 
> The main thing, DON'T GIVE UP. You will get it right.


Bang On advice there.
Rence, If you are having the same probs with the Ryonet paper I would consider giving them a call and chatting it through with them they might have additional pointers.


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## rence12

I will thanks


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## valleyboy_1

okay, I will share with you all of the tools I've learned that one would need to have accurate results.

1. Powder applicator (thermography machine)
2. Flash Dryer (thermography machine as your powder application and conveyor, Flash for your Dryer)
3. Screen printing equipment for your printing (recommend automatic machines if your during large quantities)

I have attached an image of a powder applicator


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## infopub

Hey guys, what type of emulsion are you using for your screens? I am using Ulano EZ Film 30 micron. I am thinking that I need to use something a little thicker to give me a better ink deposit. My last batch of transfers were not as opaque as I would have liked.

Thanks in advance.


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## infopub

valleyboy_1 said:


> okay, I will share with you all of the tools I've learned that one would need to have accurate results.
> 
> 1. Powder applicator (thermography machine)
> 2. Flash Dryer (thermography machine as your powder application and conveyor, Flash for your Dryer)
> 3. Screen printing equipment for your printing (recommend automatic machines if your during large quantities)
> 
> I have attached an image of a powder applicator


I don't see the image.


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## angippp

dunno, its green and i get it off ebay


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## rence12

I use QTX Ulano good stuff


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## starchild

infopub said:


> Hey guys, what type of emulsion are you using for your screens? I am using Ulano EZ Film 30 micron. I am thinking that I need to use something a little thicker to give me a better ink deposit. My last batch of transfers were not as opaque as I would have liked.
> Thanks in advance.


Your ink deposit thickness is dictated by the mesh, not the stencil thickness. The stencil on the substrate side of the mesh is responsible for edge sharpness and print definition. (You'll just be introducing more print strokes to fill the damn you are thinking about creating).

Consider using a thinner thread diameter and a wider percentage open area for the mesh size you're currently using or go down in mesh size but still consider thinner thread and higher open area. This helps with ink transfer and coverage.

Your squeegee- type/angle/stroke is responsible for feeding the required volume of ink, that the mesh demands. Also, putting a coating (smooth) of emulsion on the squeegee side of the mesh helps meter the ink delivery of the squeegee.


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