# Wilcom emb files saved as dst files is a disaster



## 34Ford (Mar 19, 2010)

Since I am starting out in this venture I have found that Wilcom emb files I spend so much time creating look fantastic on the computer.
However, when it is saved to a dst files it goes to hell. 

So here I am having to go back thru them repairing the mess.

I have a Happy HDC2 which uses TAP files, well creating them in Wilcom is unusable, so that is out.

So, whats the purpose of a great emb file when there is no machine that can load it?

Seems a dst file editing program from the get go would be better.

-end of rant.-


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## naldopr (Feb 11, 2016)

In which way the dst file is mess up?


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

Are you SAVING them as .DST files or EXPORTING them as .DST files?

I've created a bunch using Hatch that I've exported as .PES or .DST had had no issues with them.


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## 34Ford (Mar 19, 2010)

Ok, just tried the exporting of a Tajima dst and a Happy tap instead of just saving and they are still not the quality the original emb file. Jagged corners, added run stitches, broken fills.

Here is the difference.


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## digidana (Jun 20, 2016)

the best way to do it, is to create an emb file, save the emb file, then when you're finished do a 'file' 'save as' to a dst to take to the machine. if you need any edits after the fact, edit the emb file, then, again, save as the dst to take to your machine. always only make edits to the emb file. 

wilcom is actually the best i've seen as far as having an editable dst file. when i read a dst into my old software, it used to read in every satin, and fill, as a running stitch. you couldn't edit objects at all.


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## roggie (Jan 5, 2017)

I think your problem lies elsewhere. I assume you open the saved .dst back in Wilcom and it looks wonky. So did mine before my Wilcom instructor told me how to open them.

When you 'Import embroidery', you have to click on the options on the right lower side of the small window. A smaller window opens and there you have to UNCHECK 'Object / outlines'. 

This means you will have each stitch on its own and no objects to edit. 

Keep in mind that .dst files are not suitable for major editing/resizing. Sooner you come to terms with that, the better.  I only change single stitches and add trims to old designs that were made before my time in various other programs. Just do what someone before me recommended - always edit .emb file.


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## Express D (Mar 21, 2014)

34Ford said:


> Ok, just tried the exporting of a Tajima dst and a Happy tap instead of just saving and they are still not the quality the original emb file. Jagged corners, added run stitches, broken fills.
> 
> Here is the difference.


The problem lies because you are opening the dst file and editing it. NEVER EDIT A DST FILE WHICH IS RULE NO.1!!!

DST file is stitch data only!!! whereas the EMB file is the native file which has a lot more info such as the nodemarks you create when creating the design. THE DST FILE DOES NOT SAVE ANY NODE MARKS.

So to keep it simple, when creating a new design, first create it on wilcom and save it as an EMB file. Keep resaving the file till its ready to stitch. When its ready to stitch, you need to save it as a dst file (the only purpose being is that the machine is not able to read an EMB file, apart from that DO NOT USE THE DST FILE FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE!!). Once you have used the dst file to stitch it out, if the sample is file, then you are good but if you need to edit the design, then you need to go back onto your computer and open the EMB file (NOT THE DST FILE), edit the EMB file and resave into a dst file again and repeat till satisfied.

I hope I have explained myself clear to solve your issue. Goodluck!!


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## LTPEMB (Jul 10, 2015)

What Express D said. If you new to digitizing than this is one of the most important lessons to learn. 

OUTLINE file vs. Stitch file. Any and all files that you EDIT should be EMB files. If the design didn't come out the way you like during sewout go back to the original EMB file and export or save as a brand new DST or whatever file type for your machine. 

As for programs for editing raw DST files... they exsist but get use to moving one stitch at a time cause that is how dst editing works.


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## 34Ford (Mar 19, 2010)

roggie said:


> I think your problem lies elsewhere. I assume you open the saved .dst back in Wilcom and it looks wonky. So did mine before my Wilcom instructor told me how to open them.
> 
> When you 'Import embroidery', you have to click on the options on the right lower side of the small window. A smaller window opens and there you have to UNCHECK 'Object / outlines'.
> 
> This means you will have each stitch on its own and no objects to edit.


Well that does make a difference in loading. Its like it combines all the stitches for that one letter.


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## 34Ford (Mar 19, 2010)

I got so much to learn.

Here is something that bugged me yesterday while putting this text onto some tote bags whenever it got to the last e in Tribe, it would jump to the bottom of the a in Dance and do a tie in.
What the?

I can get it to remove that by highlighting that "a" then in Underlay uncheck First underlay, or Second Underlay, and then rechecking them and that tie end is gone.


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## Express D (Mar 21, 2014)

34Ford said:


> I got so much to learn.
> 
> Here is something that bugged me yesterday while putting this text onto some tote bags whenever it got to the last e in Tribe, it would jump to the bottom of the a in Dance and do a tie in.
> What the?
> ...


Thats because you inserted "Tribe" before it finished the final stitch on "e" of Dance. When you undo and redo it automatically readjusts.

Always make sure when digitizing that you have returned to the end of design before continuing otherwise you will be inserting the stitches inbetween the design.


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## digidana (Jun 20, 2016)

are you sure the design is centered? typically the red box and + are in the same spot. your tie off could be a "return to center" code. make sure your "auto start/end" button is selected. its just to the left of the redraw button. looks like a little yellow square with a 45 degree green and red line. i'm still learning wilcom (i used a different software for 20 years), but this could be a problem in my old software.

also make sure there isn't a random stitch in that spot after the E in tribe in your "color-object list". it could have gotten out of sequence somehow.


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## roggie (Jan 5, 2017)

34Ford said:


> Well that does make a difference in loading. Its like it combines all the stitches for that one letter.


It combines objects of same color and makes it as one object I think. I only edit .dst when I have no other choice, no other files of the same design, and when the changes are minimal (stitch out of place here, not tieing off and/or trimming there..). Apart from that, I leave them the hell alone  I rather make a design from scratch than change the old one. Less time consuming in the end, and the result is always better.
@digidana: Usually (almost always to be precise) in my designs the cross and the red box aren't in the same position. It actually doesn't matter, as the box just represents the center point of the canvas (0,0 on x and y axis), and my configuration of start/end looks like this (see photo). With this, I don't ever have to worry about the design not starting out from the centre.


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