# Starting a vlog documenting my beginning in screenprinting



## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey guys my name is Kan Jones. I'm new to this forum and screen printing in general. Ive been researching for the past 2 months and have finally gathered enough equipment and material to start printing. I figured the easiest way to get help along the way and contribute to others who find themselves in this learning curve would be to video document my successes and fails on the path to becoming a screen printer.

I've started a youtube page and will be putting up videos along with questions about technique along with things that just stump me in general. Ive got several questions burning in my head right now and they will be asked as soon as these first few videos go up.

Im definitely excited and looking forward to the input you guys have. I have spent alot of hours reading what people in this community have to offer in terms of info and love the atmosphere of respect and good info.


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## jennGO (Mar 11, 2014)

Post the link I want to watch


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey Jennifer! the first couple of links will be up tomorrow morning. I'll be adding them to this thread as i go along. Thanks for the interest. I'm excited for this.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Alright guys so here is my introduction video. Just introducing myself and showing the materials Ill be using. 
Also I plan on printing on Next Level 3600 premium 100% cotton t-shirts for anyone wondering. Starting with black shirts and possibly red.

feed back is appreciated and needed lol. Thanks 

https://youtu.be/loEMBrAJEME


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Showing my press and wondering if anyone can help identify that brand or model. I picked it up off of craigslist for $300 bucks. Its older and seems pretty sturdy. Im just not 100% sure what I should be checking for. 

https://youtu.be/R6tA0F5_M2o


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Here is my 2nd attempt at filling a screen. 

I do have a question about the cleaning process. As you'll see in the video there is the ghost image in the screen from my first image. I used red plastisol ink on that screen and clean it with the ink remover then the emulsion remover and hit it with the simple green after all that to degrease and the image remains. 

Can anyone point me int he direction of how to get rid of this or is it not that big of a problem?

https://youtu.be/3U-1yqaxVus


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## tcrowder (Apr 27, 2006)

ThinkNSay said:


> Here is my 2nd attempt at filling a screen.
> 
> I do have a question about the cleaning process. As you'll see in the video there is the ghost image in the screen from my first image. I used red plastisol ink on that screen and clean it with the ink remover then the emulsion remover and hit it with the simple green after all that to degrease and the image remains.
> 
> ...


T-Shirt Forums - Search Results for removing ghost images


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## krikster (Aug 8, 2013)

The video with you emulsifying(check spelling) the screens....You need to start slowing up and sawing the emulsion off before you get that far to the top. You will never use that part to print with so no need for you to have it go up that far.

You will thank yourself once you have to go and clean that stuff to reclaim the screen.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

tcrowder said:


> T-Shirt Forums - Search Results for removing ghost images



Terry Thanks for the point in the right direction


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

krikster said:


> The video with you emulsifying(check spelling) the screens....You need to start slowing up and sawing the emulsion off before you get that far to the top. You will never use that part to print with so no need for you to have it go up that far.
> 
> You will thank yourself once you have to go and clean that stuff to reclaim the screen.



Thanks for the feedback... Do you think maybe half the speed I was going would be better pacing?


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## krikster (Aug 8, 2013)

ThinkNSay said:


> Thanks for the feedback... Do you think maybe half the speed I was going would be better pacing?


Not really, that is about how fast I go. I have seen people do it way faster. I am not a fan of going faster just so I make sure it is all coated the first 2 swipes.


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## ParrotPrinting (Feb 23, 2015)

your speed was ok but Kirk's right about going so far up the screen


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

ok cool, I will definitely stop a little sooner. Im always down for less clean up lol


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## uptownfusion (Aug 14, 2007)

nice videos...what kind of camera did you use


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## wellsjc2 (Nov 19, 2012)

Good luck man!!


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

uptownfusion said:


> nice videos...what kind of camera did you use


Thanks. Im using a Canon 5D Mark II. Im a freelance videographer also so Ive got a bunch of gear that Im trying so hard to not pull out. I want these videos to be straight to the point lol and not my normal lets make it look cool.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

So i have an update. I checked on my screens after about 20 hours dry time. They were dry to the touch so i burned my image under my DIY light table. everything went fine until it was tine to rinse out the screen. I used my shower so the pressure wasnt crazy hard. The image had some problems towards the bottom. The emulsion was coming off around the bottom. Im thinking that because my garage is so cold (probably mid 40's) that the emulsion didnt properly dry. I'll post the video up in the a.m. to show what it looked like. Tomorrow I plan on washing them out and using a cardboard box as a temporary drying station and bring them in the house to dry.

In the meantime Im going to search the forum and see who else may have ran into this problem before and what they did as corrective measures. If anyone has a link they think would help and want to drop its more than welcome. Besides that Im off into search mode.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Hey Kan, Keep it up man. I started similar to you and now have a better grasp on everything lol. I subscribed to your channel so I'll be watching all your progress.

As far as the bubbles in your emulsion, that should be fine. I get bubbles sometimes, but as long as your coating steady and on both sides the bubbles won't effect anything.

I also agree with everyone on how far up you are coating. If you notice how far away the emulsion is on the sides. Try and start and stop the emulsion on the top and bottom about the same distance from the frame as the sides. Realistically you only need emulsion where the image will be. The rest could be tape or block out or something like that.

Second thing, I think you can get better prices if you find a supplier other than ryonet. They have a lot of stuff and are geared towards the beginner. But they do seem to be the highest on prices. This Google search shows a few suppliers in Portland. I personally use Midwest Sign & Screen Printing. They carry Union ink which I love. The other one was RC supply company. They carry Saati products which I love to use also.

As far as your screen test. How long did you burn the screen for?? I have heard that with the 500-watt work light, depending on mesh and coating, it could be as long as 30 min. It sounds like it may have been underexposed. But it could be that it was to cold also. I don't know how that would effect the screen actually. Also, what kind of emulsion are you using? Is it a photopolymer or Diazo?? You would really benefit from a Photopolymer if you don't already have one. They burn way faster then a Diazo. I personally use Saatichem PHU emulsion. That is what I would recommend if you switch.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Jeron thanks for the input man and also for subscribing! 

Right before i pulled the trigger on the ryonet stuff I was on Ebay about to pull the trigger on few gallons of union ink. That's great to know. I do plan on trying out different inks as soon as I get the mechanics down. I want to find which works best with what materials and so on as I get more into textile printing. Im going to check those outfits you mentioned as soon as I finish up in here.

Also my light is a 250 watt shop light. I had it going for 20 mins because my very first screen (the one shown was my 2nd attempt) that I burned in my apartment bathroom worked with those times. I didnt factor in the temp difference from inside to outside. The emulsion is a Diazo. I went with it because I had mainly saw it being used. I will get my hands on some photopolymer and do some side by side tests. Im definitely interested in seeing them in comparison to one another.

Man thanks again for your input and feedback!


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Here are the videos for my screen burning setup along with the aftermath of my failed screen wash.

screen burning
https://youtu.be/vazrLc83a_I

Failed screen 
https://youtu.be/n1seUU7LCig

The burn seems to have went ok but again I think the 20 hours I let the emulsion dry wasnt long enough under the low temperature conditions of my garage. Im going to look at a make shift dry unit for in the house until I can get around to building one.


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## datafry (May 21, 2014)

I'm not sure on temps, but I was having wash out like that and I found I had way to thick of a coat of emulsion. I now use the smaller edge of the screen coater. Also I found if you angle the coater back (not let the flat end of the plastic sides lay flat on the screen) helps some also. I'm new also and for me this has been the hardest part to get down.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

I actually just got thru replying to Dan on my youtube page regarding using the sharp side along with flipping the screen when I coat the opposite side. Great tip, I will be using testing it out tonight when I recoat my screens. Thanks Kevin


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## salgonzalez (Oct 21, 2015)

Quick tip, there are 2 sides to your scoop coater. A "sharp" side and a round side. Since you don't have hat drying cabinet setup yet try and make the coat as thin as possible. Make sure to use the Sharp side.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

I only use the round side. It puts more emulsion on then the sharp side. You have to remember thought that whether you're using the sharp or round side pressure is what controls the amount of emulsion being applied. I was putting to much on when I first started and was having exposing problems and washout. I talked to my local supplier and he told me to use the round side, but I needed to push harder against the screen mesh with the coater. He said it will feel like I'm going to bust through the other side of the screen, but I needed more pressure. So I tried it and it was way better. You don't need to press super hard, but I think you probably need more pressure. I let the sides of the coater touch the screen. That is what they are for.

Second is you should wash out on the print side. There is the ink side and then the print side of the screen. you coat the print side first, then coat the ink side. then the screen dries with the ink side up. That whole process forces the majority of the emulsion to go to the print side of the screen. So if your exposure isn't exactly right washing from the ink side you risk blowing out the stencil because it's not as thick. You can save a underexposed screen just by washing out on the print side. you can wet both sides and should, but only go at it with any kind of pressure on the print side until you get your exposure figure out.

I think you are way underexposed. Most people I hear are using a 500-watt halogen with photopolymer and are sitting at around 20-30 min. With diazo you will be even longer than that. Diazo vs Photo takes about double the time from what I've read. I have only used photo so can't say to much about Diazo.

Photopolymer not only exposes faster it also lasts longer. It has a shelf life of about 1 year. where diazo is usually around 4-6 weeks. You also don't have to mix it with stuff. It is ready to use right out of the can. I would try out the Saatichem PHU Emulsion. It is what I use and it's a Photopolymer. You should be able to get it from that local supplier I mentioned. They had it listed on their website.


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## ParrotPrinting (Feb 23, 2015)

There are a few good emulsions out there kan I use Ulano QTX and it works fine.....I would recommend a Photopolymer and bump it up to a 500 watt bulb at the very least. Ryonet having a bit higher prices than others has an excellent customer service experience....when I started I used them till I got more knowledge under my belt. I now use a few different suppliers depending on what I'm buying. As far as the thickness of emulsion goes you will want a good EOM (emulsion over mesh) not the thinnest you can get. do some more research on youtube and you'll find out what I mean.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

I had a feeling the 250watt may have been a little under powered. I'll be a home depot tomorrow to grab a light and some wood for the drying rack. Just got done researching a build I want to do. Photopolymer seems like the way to go if it cures faster and lasts longer. Just got off the RC screen site and they've got some of my money coming to them next go around. For now Ill just plan on burning the screen longer until I find a sweet spot. 

All good stuff guys thanks for taking the time out to give me some pointers based of your own experiences.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Yeah I always try and support my local supliers. Depending on the place and people they could help you learn also. I have a place here locally that the owner has taught me almost more then I've learned here. He has screen printed his whole life and then started a supply company. He was the one that told me about more pressure applying emulsion. Getting a good relationship with people like that is invaluable if you ask me.


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## tippy (May 27, 2014)

I don't do screen printing, so can't offer any advise, but I wanted to pop in here and say I love that you are documenting your learning process. Don't get discouraged by minor setbacks - Screen printing is an art, and like all artistic endeavours, it takes time to perfect it. 

Keep up the great work.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey Tippy thanks, that big of you to take a sec and share some nice words of encouragement. I remember learning the art of editing videos and the time it took to get to a comfortable level. But I'm all in with most things I do and now everyone can watch the roller coaster of me learning lol.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

jeron said:


> Yeah I always try and support my local supliers. Depending on the place and people they could help you learn also. I have a place here locally that the owner has taught me almost more then I've learned here. He has screen printed his whole life and then started a supply company. He was the one that told me about more pressure applying emulsion. Getting a good relationship with people like that is invaluable if you ask me.


I agree that creating relationships with skilled persons in the arena you enter is invaluable. I hope to be able to come across someone locally with the patience to explain or just answer some of my head scratch questions. I'm sure it'll happen.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Alright so last night I recoated my screens after washing and degreasing them. On 1 screen I did have a small patch of emulsion close to the edge of the screen that would not come out after many attempts I gave up. Its close enough to the edge to never effect an image.

I used the sharp edge of the scoop coater and stayed away from the edges of the screen. I feel I got a better coat than I did originally. 

I used the box my screens shipped in an placed holes on each side for airflow along with a fan and placed in a room in my apt. I'll see after work if I have success.

https://youtu.be/yxlNsr_F4Ag


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

How are you washing out your screens? Are you using a pressure washer? If not that would help get all the emulsion of. When I started I didn't have one and just used a garden hose sprayer. I had a few screens i couldn't get clean. I took them to one of those self serve Car washes and used those pressure washers and the emulsion came right off.

I'm glad the sharp edge worked for you. Don't be afraid of the round edge though. I think you just needed more pressure when applying. The thicker the emulsion the more ink you put on the shirt in one pass. You can build up the emulsion with the sharp edge just takes more coats. 

I do a 1/1 coat with the round edge and that's what I use most of the time. But your getting there. I feel like coating a screen and figuring out your burn times is the biggest hurdle and learning curve to a new printer. I mean the entire screen printing process relies on a good screen first and foremost!!


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Good morning Jeron. I had to rely on a stream of tub water. I had bought a garden hose sprayer which worked my first go around but the apts took the car wash station water hose due to the cold weather. The self serve carwash is a great idea. Ive got one close that will suffice until i can figure a permanent solution. 

The sharp edge worked and I noticed on my round edge there is a slight chip along the edge. That was creating a line during application. I'll have to get my hands on one that is intact here soon. I did a double coat on the screen with the sharp side to create a thicker deposit for the burn.

Just curious how long would you say it took you to catch your groove with coating?


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Hey man, yeah a pressure washer will take those spots right out considering you weren't using one originally. I would still washout like you have been and only go to the car wash with one's you can't get clean. I only had problems with maybe 1 out of 10 screens I did. That will save you a little money on the car wash. 

I probably went through about 20 screens before I talked to the guy about more pressure during coating. But after that my 1st or 2nd one was decent and usable. By no means perfect but I could burn an image and print with it. By about my 15th-20th screen I would say they were getting way more consistent. 

Your first screen that you burned in the video looked good, you just needed to burn it longer I think. That's why it was coming off. I don't think it had much to do with your coating. If you coat to thick it takes longer to dry, and longer to burn. Pushing harder with the coater doesn't put as much on, whether it be sharp side or round. That's why I mentioned it to you.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Letting the screens dry in the house seems to have been a success. I burned the screens in my bathroom and left them under the light for for 35 mins this time. Rinsed them out in the shower.

After I put dinner together I'll be headed out to the garage to attempt to put some white paint on a black test tee. Video will follow. Wish me luck

Also below is the design I created and what its supposed to look like... I added the laurels after. Its a shirt for me to wear on some of my video shoots while filming.


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## krikster (Aug 8, 2013)

Nice looking work bro! Seems you got it under control for the most part.like the laurel touch now that t isn't so plain looking like before.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Looks good. That is a wide design!! 

Sent from my SM-N920T using T-Shirt Forums


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Last night I took to the garage ready to show my press what I'm made of... which is mostly carbon and water. I set up and made my first attempt at this design. I went with straight plastisol white ink no ryocharge. 

This is the result: https://youtu.be/wGhZgNWusN8

I need to figure out my pressure, along with the angle for flooding the screen. It looks like I'm doing it exactly as the videos I watch but it has yet to work the same way. it's a little frustrating as shown with my heavy breathing in video haha... Im wondering if the ink was too cold also. There are a few ponits of uneven ink deposits. Im thinking my design is too wide for the screen so the edges are not being hit like the center is. On a good note the plastisol cured well with the heat press at 356 degrees for 15 secs in my cold garage

fire away guys and let me know what you think.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Your design is to wide for that screen. That was my first thought when I posted yesterday, but waited till you tried printing.

When you print, the squeegee pushes the screen down to touch the shirt. Because your image is so close to the frame it's not able to do that on the outer edges as easily. That's why the 2 outer letters were giving you problems. If you were to shrink that design down it will print much better. My standard print size for adult is 12" wide. I also use 20x24 screens and the biggest I would go is probably 14 inches wide at the most, just so i don't have to fight anything. Even that is a little wide in my opinion. Plus my film printer only does 13x19 so i probably wouldn't do over that anyway. Not to say you can't print bigger it just starts adding in different problems you have to deal with. 

I'm sure you noticed you didn't have much room to work at the top of the screen also. You mentioned you were going to do a push stroke, but then did a pull. I'm guessing that's because you didn't have enough room at the top to start the push? I have only used a push stroke and I think it's easier. By shrinking your design and using an image size the screen can handle you'll have more room at the top to work with, and everything will print much easier. 

The ghost images I think was because you hit it so many times. But until you get a smaller image that you can hit once with decent coverage is hard to figure that part out.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Yes I think you are right Jeron, the proximity to the edge stopped my dream of the push stroke. I read up some more on it this a.m. and saw the problem with my design size. Its 15" wide. I had the prints made on 11 x 17" paper. Back to reclaiming my screen and shrinking down a bit lol..I think i'll take it down to 12 1/2 or 13" and see how that works. Good thing about this is I'll get to test that pressure washer at the car wash.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

I built a pretty rough version of a dry box and got 2.5 hour dry time on 2 screens using a Heater fan. Burned my screen last night with a 5 x 5 image just to start small then move to the bigger images. I'll post up results this evening. 

Diy box: https://youtu.be/twz3Ql35ieg


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Here's my second go at inking my print. The problem I ran into this time is that part of the image is not getting transferred. When looking at the screen all the emulsion is out of the image but it's as if the ink isnt making it thru these parts. I did multiple passes along with using on different parts of my test T shirt.

2nd inking- https://youtu.be/hvn8fDOOzD8

Any ideas on what my problem may be? Im kind of clueless.
Also, although not in this video I reclaimed the screen and burned the image again and it did a similar thing but on more of the image than the first time. I will attach photos of what Im talking about also. The 2 on the left where from the same screen. I tried to show what the screen looked like with ink in it so people can see where its not making it through.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Hey man looking good. Did you find printing easier with the smaller image??

So as far as your problem goes it could be 2 things. Emulsion blocking the screen or your not clearing the screen all the way.

As far as the emulsion blocking the screen. This can happen with an underexposed screen and water "bleeding" into the open image areas. If you have an underexposed screen, after washout the water can "melt" away the leftover emulsion and cause it to "bleed" into your open image area when drying. This can be clear and really difficult to see just by looking at it. But it leaves a barrier that your ink can't pass. To eliminate this get your exposure times down. If you have a screen that is exposed properly this shouldn't happen. But regardless you should dry the screen off as much as possible after you wash it out. Some people pat the screen down with newspaper. I, along with a lot of people, use a shop vac set to blow to blow the water off the screen. If you have a properly exposed screen it will just let the screen dry faster. But if your screen is underexposed it will reduce the risk of the emulsion creeping into your image.

As far as not clearing the screen all the way it could be a few things.

What is your off contact??

It looks like you need to do more print strokes. You have your flood stroke that fill/covers the image with ink. Then you have your print stroke that actually does the printing. I would suggest you do 1 flood stroke then do 2-3 print strokes. This will help the ink transfer to the shirt. Sometimes the ink stays in the screen but another print stroke will make it transfer.

Also, I would suggest doing a PFP (Print Flash Print) White ink on black shirts will almost always require a PFP. Sometimes the ink will only transfer so much because of stencil thickness. But flashing gives you basically a new surface to work with, and it will transfer more ink again. You will get closer to a one hit white, but it takes the right stencil thickness and print technique. Even then it can be difficult.

After watching your video, I would suggest you try this.

Set your off contact to 1/8"-1/4". I would go more rather than less for now. The screen needs to be able to pull up away from the shirt after the print. If it can't it won't transfer the ink as well.
Do 1 flood stroke, followed by 2-3 print strokes.
Raise the screen and flash the image.
Lower the screen and do another flood stroke and 2-3 print strokes.

Try that and see how your print comes out. Assuming your screen isn't blocked this should help your prints out.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Jeron you have come thru for me yet again! some really good info here. Yes the smaller image was much easier lol. I stroked 2 times on the white. Some of the other tests I did 3 to 4 strokes. The PFP method sounds like it could be a winner. I had thought about it but having someone relay it as an actual method has given me confidence in attempting it.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Yeah typically light colors on dark garments require a pfp of some sorts. Typically you do a white underbase, flash, then the top color. But since it's white you're doing you just do white both times. You would need to do similar stuff with any light color on a black or dark garment. Unless you are using opaque ink designed to go directly on dark colors.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

In the garage building some DIY platens. I needed bigger than what came with my press. I made them 18" wide and 21" long with a useable 18" x 18" surface. I also made a sleeve platen that's 4 1/2" wide and 21" long.

I used a 3/4" thick 2' x 4' sheet of melamine with white facing from Home depot and the brackets off my other platens. Had them cut em up at HD and made the angle cuts at home. I dont have a flash dryer so they seem like a viable option until i reach the point of needing to upgrading. 

Hope someone finds it useful. I'll have video up soon of them


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Looks good, I made all my own platens also. I used the same exact material, and they have worked well. Even using them with a flash they will last fine as long as your careful. 

Suggestion though, sand the edges a lot. You want them nice and round and as smooth at you can get them. Especially on the front where you load shirts. 

I just upgraded to aluminum and love them. But for the money and just starting out, your on the right track.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

jeron said:


> Looks good, I made all my own platens also. I used the same exact material, and they have worked well. Even using them with a flash they will last fine as long as your careful.
> 
> Suggestion though, sand the edges a lot. You want them nice and round and as smooth at you can get them. Especially on the front where you load shirts.
> 
> I just upgraded to aluminum and love them. But for the money and just starting out, your on the right track.


Yes that was the first thing I did was sand those edges. They are smooth around the contour now. Im gonna make another set 20 x 20 for my bigger prints. think im going to pull the trigger on 2 larger screens also so i can get those 17" prints done. 

Can I ask what the advantages you see with the aluminum?


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Over time the wood will warp from the heat of a flash drier. Making your print surface uneven, and possibly causing printing problems. Aluminum won't warp. Plus they have a rubber top so it's a little bit nicer surface to print on. They are expensive but worth the investment when you get to that point.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hi guys, Ive been MIA for a couple of weeks but I'm back. I ran into a problem with my screens. I coated them with emulsion and placed them in the dry rack. When I went to check on them last night after being in for a day the screens looked like the attached photo. I used the thin side of the coater and only made one pass on each side. I'm confused right now. Any input would be immensely helpful.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Not level? Or a Huge fan blowing 80 mph. are you racks perfectly level? If you don't have enough air in between screens it can make them start to tack up a lot slower than ideal and cause weird things to happen. add on.... took another look at the pic, maybe coated way thicker on that side. While your getting use to coating, Maybe do 1 nice thick pass, then tip the scoop back a bit and do 1 crisp kinda scrape/clean up pass . then do the same on the other side. better to have a thin good consistant thickness while mastering your exposure times, and then work on getting thicker emulsion later.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Yeah you have way to much emulsion. That's what mine looked like until my local supplier talked to me about my coating pressure. 

My guess is you're still not pushing hard enough. At least that was my problem when i was putting to much on. 

Your not trying to coat the screen with emulsion. You're actually trying to push the emulsion through the mesh. That's why you do the ink side last, because realistically you should be pushing the emulsion to the opposite side.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Printor said:


> Not level? Or a Huge fan blowing 80 mph. are you racks perfectly level? If you don't have enough air in between screens it can make them start to tack up a lot slower than ideal and cause weird things to happen. add on.... took another look at the pic, maybe coated way thicker on that side. While your getting use to coating, Maybe do 1 nice thick pass, then tip the scoop back a bit and do 1 crisp kinda scrape/clean up pass . then do the same on the other side. better to have a thin good consistant thickness while mastering your exposure times, and then work on getting thicker emulsion later.



I believe the leveling is good and this time I didnt have the fan going which i did the first time I had this happen so I figured without it I wouldn't run into this and POW! I got it even worse this time with no fan blowing lol. Im going to go at it again and record it this time to show exactly what I'm doing. Thanks for the feedback


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

jeron said:


> Yeah you have way to much emulsion. That's what mine looked like until my local supplier talked to me about my coating pressure.
> 
> My guess is you're still not pushing hard enough. At least that was my problem when i was putting to much on.
> 
> Your not trying to coat the screen with emulsion. You're actually trying to push the emulsion through the mesh. That's why you do the ink side last, because realistically you should be pushing the emulsion to the opposite side.


Reading the part about not trying to coat and trying to push emulsion through the screen just made it click as far as understanding the concept. I dont think Ive heard it stated like that before. Like I was telling Printor I'm going to record this next go around to show how I'm applying and placing the screens in the cab. As usual bro I appreciate your input


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Yeah, Gotta master all your own variables, what coater, what kind of emulsion, what temperatures, what kind of humidity. Takes practice, you'll get it. I can tell ya got the feava. I spent 19 years coating screens right on the coast, Then I moved up to the mountains, and the air is sooooo dry up here, I had to learn how to coat all over again. so dry the emulsion wants to instantly tac up on the end caps and stick. I gotta move like the flash till I'm done. When I hear there's rain coming, I try to reclaim a lot of screens cuz with a little bit of humidity I can coat better.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

ThinkNSay said:


> Reading the part about not trying to coat and trying to push emulsion through the screen just made it click as far as understanding the concept. I dont think Ive heard it stated like that before. Like I was telling Printor I'm going to record this next go around to show how I'm applying and placing the screens in the cab. As usual bro I appreciate your input


Yeah, I did this image to show you what the emulsion is doing. If you notice in the red circles you will see that the round edge can push the emulsion through the screen easier than the sharp side. The sharp side more scrapes the emulsion across the screen vs push it though. That's why the round edge will put more emulsion on.

One thing to show you your pressure is a little wonky is to look at the image you posted that I added stuff to. If you notice where the arrows point. You can see that everywhere that is darker corresponds to the areas that are really drippy and have too much emulsion. Also, if you look at the area in the circle you will notice that you had really good and even pressure in that area. If you notice that anywhere on that screen that has a similar color as the area in the circle, you don't have the drippy problem and the screen looks decent. That is because it has the right amount of emulsion. Everywhere else has to much.

I would say you do a few test screens together just to see the difference. I would do 3 if you have them, doing low, medium, high pressure. With low pressure being the pressure you have been doing so far. Do a 1/1 coat on all 3 using the same side of the coater for all 3. That way you will be able to see exactly what changes your getting from just the pressure. More than that you need even pressure.

Also, I use one hand to hold the screen and one to hold the coater. But I have read that a lot of people lean the screen against the wall and use the coater with both hands. I've tried that method and probably will switch to that once I make some sort of screen holder. I had better control over the speed and pressure using 2 hands. 1 hand is definitely doable considering I have been doing that for years now, along with everyone else that still does it. Just something to think about trying.

Screen making is probably the biggest thing you will have to learn in this whole process. If you don't have a good quality screen then its really hard to "screen" print. Just keep at it, you'll eventually find your groove and it will be easier.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

I'm a one hander. I can't see not being able to change the angle of my screen when I set my scoop on the screen before my pass. If my scoops real full I have the screen pretty vert. and when it's real low, I start with the screen at quite an angle to get gravity to move the emulsion to the edge of scoop faster and stand it back up to pinch the emulsion of at the end of my pass.


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

Yeah, i do the same thing. But I figure if I just keep the emulsion full in the coater it should be good. I don't know. I just feel like I could get better screens and consistency with 2 hands. Not that I struggle, my screens are good, just trying to improve anything I can. I may not like it when I go to switch lol.

I have just read that some people can't, or really struggle using one hand. So just throwing it out as something to think about.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey Jeron whats up man! The images helped me to see exactly what you were saying about the bubbles forming at the end of those parts coated heavy/unevenly. I use 1 hand on the screen and 1 to coat. I want to definitely try with both hands because it seems more logical as far as an even spread. 
I have 3 screens so the method of testing out different pressures to find the correct pressure is something I can do this next go around. I've got to get to the car wash so I can pressure wash those screens clean and get back to it this weekend. Feel like a dunce with as much error I've come across in this trial and error process lol. But I know its a skill and like all other skills it takes time to harness and understand. You help make this thread a goldmine for myself and those who will follow looking for answers. 


Whats up Printor! Yeah man learning the art of video production was a similar experience and I've managed to turn that into the thing I'm known for among my peer groups so I'm positive this to will become a similar pathway. The variables involved for mastering a good screen are a necessary evil but once understood I know I'll be rock n rolling on thru. Thanks for the encouragement and feedback


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## JonDouglas (Sep 20, 2010)

I'm just getting here and I must say, great job so far man. If I had the means I would have documented my learning experience. Self taught through lots of videos and trial and error, but you're definitely on the right track and the right site. Some notes on your emulsion problems. I roll like Printor, one handed changing the angle of the screen as I go. Takes practice to find the right speed and pressure, but once you do screens coat smooth without too much of an edge bead. Poor screen tension or inconsistent tension will ruin your coat, no matter how well your technique is, so be wary of those craigslist screens. How sharp are the screen images after you burn? If it's a little fuzzy or soft on the edges consider a piece of glass to hold the positive tight against the screen.
That was a nice cheat with the 6 inch squeegee for the sides on that first print video, I've used it myself, got the job done and then I threw that warped platen away. If the shirt hadn't lifted you would have had a solid print. Here's another sorta cheat, to get by with your 20x24's, turn them sideways, and make a wide short platen, it will let you do shoulder to shoulder without buying bigger screens right away. Image size is something folks always want bigger, but you can only do so much without upgrades.
All in all, great job, especially with the videos! I really wish I could have done the same... Keep posting, I'll keep watching.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

For everyone that has been wondering, I will be picking up where I left off now that Ive handled some of the business of the winter months. New vid coming soon! In the mean time heres a link to some promo I did for my freelance Videography.

"The Shooter"


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

I had the same problem as you when I first started white on dark. Stringy, super thick, not transferring through the screen...
It was ryonet (international coatings) and it was apparently old. Got new ink from another ink manufacturer and every print came out great!
What ink are you using and how fresh is it?
Having the print resemble a sponge almost had me done with it all.
Email a few places for samples...if you tell them you are new, they may be more inclined to get some samples to you to try and get you to be a loyal customer!
Keep us posted 
Good stuff!!!


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Yes its been a bit frustrating. What I ended up doing was making some smaller designs with less blocky font to work on my stroke and understanding what works consistently before trying the big design again. I got pretty decent results. 

The white I'm was using is from Ryonet it's their comet white. Its about 6 months old (from when purchased it) with the smaller designs it worked well. Another thing I did was to use a 230 mesh on the smaller designs using a push stroke.That seemed to really work in my favor. Also had my off contact kind of high. like 2 quarters stacked on top of each other high.

Here are the smaller designs in photo form


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

So had an attempt at doing an exposure test to get my times down to the exact minutes since I started using a 500 watt shop light and got rid of the 250 watt. Started at 8 mins and worked up to 18. Then in typical rookie fashion walked outside in the beautiful sunlight to rinse the screen with the apartment car wash hose. Not taking into account that the sun was hardening my emulsion as my screen sat waiting for me to get the hose prepped lol... Well long story short none of my image would wash out  So after I reclaim this screen I'll try again


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Almost forgot also had a successful run of my "netflix and chill" shirts.
Registration was on point and the wash tests worked also. I just need to find a true red because the choices from Ryonet opaque reds are too orangy


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

If you spray the screen with water, out of a spray bottle before you take it outside, that will stop the exposure process. Never tried it personally but from what I've read it works. Just need to get the screen wet. 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Ok Im going to do some googling on that tip. Thanks Jeron. Hope things are good on your side man


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

So my update for the week are here.

1) I had to purchase some more emulsion from Ryonet and went with the dual cure for both Plastisol and WB inks. Ive got 2 screens drying right now and will test exposure times out on them with a template I downloaded from Anthem screen printing. Ryonet was great and also let me get a sample pint of their black plastisol to test out! its really easy to use compared to the comet white I had been using up to this point. 

2) Ran about a 10 shirt batch with the black ink. Prints came out pretty good. Still need to get my stroke more consistent for even coverage every time. Some prints ink seemed a bit thicker but after 10 secs in the heat press they looked alot better and smooth. I actually liked the lighter ink deposits because the artwork was a distressed look so it worked out

3) I had my 2nd hand bought (230 mesh) screen rip on me while putting emulsion on it and my 23 x 31 156 mesh screen had not wanted to cooperate. I must have done something wrong because the emulsion thats in the photo will not come out. Ive taken it to the carwash twice now to get the blast treatment for it. No matter how much emulsion remover i use its a no go so Im thinking I may have gotten screen lock. If this screen looks like something anyone can troubleshoot let me know or if i should just get rid of it let me know too. 

4) I found a table and I plan on putting a 30 x 30 sheet on top and make it into a table for lining up my registration for screens. Ill update as I get more refined with my idea


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

Yea man it looks like you let the emulsion remover dry. If you put emulsion remover on emulsion, and it dries...that's it! It's locked and almost impossible to get out. You can try some emulsion remover (I've heard bleach works too) on those spots and scrub with a scrubby pad or a medium bristle brush and see if you can agitate it out. Unfortunately, you may have to just cut the screen out and send it out to be re-meshed.
The that worked looks good though!
WACTH OUT FOR THAT DANG SUN LOL!!!


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

So yesterday I exposed a screen with the new emulsion using my old exposure time of 12.5 minutes and found out that didnt work. So this morning I used the exposure test from Anthem and found out my best time window is 9 minutes under a 500 watt halogen with Ryonets (RYONET WBP DUAL CURE WATER BASED PLASTISOL HYBRID EMULSION)
I started at 6 mins and worked up to 16 mins.

I will burn my image tonight with this newly gained knowledge and see how it goes.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Yes the sun is def not an ally in this case! Ive already counted it as a learning experience and will now be searching for local rescreening here in Portland.

Thanks a lot too for the feedback on the work that I was able to complete. The feeling of victory after a string of fails feels great lol


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

I do some screen stretching but the shipping would probably be more then what I would charge you for the stretching. 
But you're learning and that's all that matters


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## jeron (Jul 16, 2012)

With you just starting you could look into Newman's, or another stretchable frame. I wish I would have started with them vs statics. But I now have a load of statics that just sit and do nothing, not to mention the money I spent on them I could have put elsewhere. 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## wavegold (Dec 8, 2014)

Kan, I noticed when you expose that you didn't have anything blocking the light after it goes through the emulsion. I use a black cloth on the ink side of my screen. I do this so that light doesn't bounce off anything (the wood) and back onto my screen. This happened to me and it caused my lines to be "fuzzy" and not as sharp. 
I wanted better exposures so I built a 1000 watt metal halide unit. The bulb and ballast were about $100 shipped. The glass was $70 but I traded out some work for that. The frame and body were 2x4 and plywood from home depot. The wiring and on/off switch was another $50 from home depot. I haven't finished the vacuum top but I'm burning great screens now in 40-50 seconds depending on mesh. It changed everything for me. 
Have you ever thought about starting a clothing line or some sort of accessory line for photographers and videographers? Those dudes spend $$ on accessories and there isn't anyone marketing to the urban/street photographers.... Just an idea.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey WaveGold I am glad you pointed that detail out about the backing. Since the original I have started placing a black foam core under the frame and an uncoated sheet of glass on top of image. 
I was able to dial my burn time at 9mins for a nice clean washout.

I was actually researching MH light burn units with the vacuum seal the last 2 days. I used to have about 4 ballasts and MH 1000 watt lights around from old projects but now am left with none. I've got a couple of plans printed out and will get around to trying to put together a unit by summer. Especially since I've been looking into halftone prints! 
That idea about marketing towards urban/street photographers is pretty genius! I definitely have a slight following here locally and know others who would love some rough around the edges gear. Thanks for that gem! Gonna really put some thought into that idea


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

So I've got another update. I rigged up a makeshift flash unit for my press with a quartz ceiling heater and some 2 X 4's mounted to the wall. I'm going to have to play around with the height because it 7 inches above its talking about 60 seconds which is still quicker than the heat gun but I def think I can go down another inch or 2. I tested it on a white shirt with 0 problems with scorching.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Updates

I've been getting steady results with ink lay down since taping 2 (sometimes 3 depending on off contact needed) Popsicle sticks together and keeping it at the top of my platen where the screen frame meets to create an even off contact. 
The reason I have to do this is that I've noticed all of the screens (on each arm) dip down on the right side by 1/8". That's where a lot of my issues with ink sticking to screen after stroke. 
Yes I know I'll need to purchase a new press that's holds the screen properly but for now this is my work around.

I have had some success with white (on smaller logo type prints so far) by thinning it out with some reducer. Almost night and day difference. I've managed to get some quality prints done along with establishing an account with a local apparel wholesaler to acquire tee n things.

I've got a site launched:
www.TheIXBrand.com 
with some of my basic 1 color designs. I've been creating a cool buzz for shirts so far and am definitely enjoying this learning while getting paid process! Lol

Today I built a preregistration light box to help me setup screens for burning. I'm going to have the top clear sheet of plexiglass mark with pocket placement for left and right chest along with the outlines of all 3 platen sizes I currently have. It will work for my 20 X 24 frames pretty well it seems. 

Hope everyone else out there are getting sharper at their chosen craft or hobby. Hope you guys have a great weekend


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Images of preregistration box


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Here's the preregistration box in garage


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## GTP30 (Dec 18, 2015)

Good stuff, looks like you're moving right along.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

Thanks! Yes it's gotten easier with the practice. Now I think I'm ready to start the 2 and possibly 3 color images. Gonna test some out in this next weeks time. I'll post updates afterwards.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

One more update in my diy build for the garage. I attempted to make a hat platen for 6 panel hats. I'm just waiting on the surgical tubing strap to arrive to complete it. I bought the plans from stavros71 on YouTube. I had to make a few tweaks to get the hat flat but think I've got it down good. I'll test it this weekend.

Also built a smaller cabinet for drying/storing screens. Height wise it will be a lot better for sitting my heat press on top of with out needing to be at an awkward angle up high. Things are coming together in my little garage. Now I just need to figure out how to get consistent results with whites ink


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

As promised here are the test results.
The logo was for a shirt pocket so it's big for the hat but I just wanted to test it before I burned a screen and all that. With a couple more tweaks I think I'll be 100% happy until I can get my hands on the real thing.


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## anubhavtees (Oct 19, 2015)

What is the wattage of that space heater?


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

anubhavtees said:


> What is the wattage of that space heater?


its 1500 watts. heres the amazon link 

Quartz Heater


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

I made a couple of adjustments to the hat platen and got some pretty good results. Tell me what you guys think!

s/n the summer hat was a screen issue not printing issue. the font was too fine and didnt washout properly but i still ran the test to see coverage on hat.


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## ThinkNSay (Oct 6, 2015)

some more hats....


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

ThinkNSay said:


> Thanks. Im using a Canon 5D Mark II. Im a freelance videographer also so Ive got a bunch of gear that Im trying so hard to not pull out. I want these videos to be straight to the point lol and not my normal lets make it look cool.


Nice cameras. I've got two, one converted to IR. And I don't take them out to play often enough 

You've been busy this past year 

Printing white and thick opaque inks was a trial for me, too. A few thoughts on that topic, in case you are still working on it:

Keep white ink (any opaque thick ink) in the house where it will stay reasonably warm. It handles much better when warm (not HOT, or course, as that would speed drying in screen or start to gel the ink).
If you're using a push stroke, make extra sure that you skew the squeegee a bit so that the leading edge is not exactly parallel to the weave of the screen--and even more important--not parallel to any major lines near the front edge of the design. The squeegee tends to dig in and stumble over such lines which throws off the beginning of your stroke, and also tends to mess up the print. 
When I had a Silver press, I got better results with no off contact. Now that I have a Vastex V2000, I get better results with a little off contact. If your press is sturdy and tight, a bit of off contact is probably the way to go ... if it ain't, then off contact may just make it easier for **** to move around ... YMMV
When I started with opaque inks, I only had 156 mesh and it was winter and cold in my shop. I had trouble getting even and complete coverage, and tended to end up with the ink way too heavy on the shirt. I've had much better luck with 200 mesh (though 180 might be optimum ... never tried one) and Stroke/Stroke/Flash/Stroke/Flash/Stroke for white. Other opaque colors can generally skip the last stroke.


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

ThinkNSay said:


> Yes that was the first thing I did was sand those edges. They are smooth around the contour now. Im gonna make another set 20 x 20 for my bigger prints. think im going to pull the trigger on 2 larger screens also so i can get those 17" prints done.
> 
> Can I ask what the advantages you see with the aluminum?


I too used the same stuff from HD to make some platens when I had the Silver press. It works fine. I would suggest painting the edges so it doesn't soak up water or solvents when you are cleaning ink and tac off of it.


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