# When printing I get smeared edges on print. Please advice



## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

I tried several designs and I get same result for all, I am sure its either my technique of printing or mesh size. I use 156 Mesh on dark garment to print white plastisol ink (RYONET). First print was ok, (white screen was clean) then ink started getting on the edges. What could it be? as mesh is 156 I am hitting with 3 prints at least. Flood stroke gently then print. Please see images too.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

What type of press are you using?


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## ShirlandDesign (Nov 29, 2009)

Just a guess really, but go to a 110, check your off contact and work hard to maintain a consistent squeegee angle. 

p.s. let us know what you come up with


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

I am using VASTEX V-2000 really good press. Off contacts are good. Screen is not touching garment. How many times can I run squeegee. Is there any limit, point where ink gets so saturated is smears around the print. I have one 110 screen and it did the same.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Once your ink is smeared under the screen its gonna show up on the next shirt even if your pull is perfect. If your doing a flood pass are you lifting screen up a little. If you flood with screen down in opposite direction your printing, it could stretch screen mesh in other direction a little and cause some blur.


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## ShirlandDesign (Nov 29, 2009)

What kind of squeegees are you using and are they sharp?


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

If your press is tight I'd guess your mesh is loose. You should be able to print/ flash/ print as many times as you want to. Also be sure you either push or pull the squeegee, but don't do both. And either 110 or 156 should work fine


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

It does look like a push/pull combo, like the mesh is being stretch in different directions. I doubt the screen was moving in the clamp if you got the same issue with 2 dif. screens. I'm use to watching some ones technique when diagnosing.


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

Are you flashing between strokes?


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## drscotty14 (Mar 23, 2011)

flood your screen up off the shirt. 
do not push and pull to print, pick one. 
make sure mesh is not loose. 
off contact may be too high (only needs to be a quarter thickness off contact)
you might be pressing too hard on a push stroke making the screen stretch.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Thank you for all your response, Squeegee is not sharp Its just a regular one, I print with 45 degree angle. I pull to flood and Push to print only from one side. I am flooding with not to strong. Now started experimenting with 110 mesh. I do not flash at all, Just print several times. 2 or 3 times on 110 mesh.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Also how should I clean that smeared ink, with SCREEN OPENER or with GREENWAY textile ink cleaner. 
Thanks


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

paata01 said:


> Also how should I clean that smeared ink, with SCREEN OPENER or with GREENWAY textile ink cleaner.
> Thanks


You should be able to buff it off with a dry rag (use a piece of a T-shirt.)


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## veetwincowboy (Mar 14, 2015)

It looks like a loose mesh to me, either way I would print it off on some newsprint about 5 or 6 times instead of wiping the screen, you can get your sharpness back without leaving ink residue to transfer to another shirt...


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Please see attached.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Screens are brand new, I do not think mesh is loose, got them from RYONET. If I print two times and lift up screen them put it again, could it smear ink.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Brand new blade Ink looks like it could use a little reducer, not much is hanging onto the blade.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Should be able to lift screen as many times as you want. make sure everything is nice and tight.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

veetwincowboy said:


> It looks like a loose mesh to me, either way I would print it off on some newsprint about 5 or 6 times instead of wiping the screen, you can get your sharpness back without leaving ink residue to transfer to another shirt...


Screens are brand new, I don't think mesh is the problem. Sometimes I print twice then lift up screen and put it back to run more prints, can I smear inks on the sides. Off contact seems to be ok.
Thanks


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

By tight I mean clamp/s and shirt board. Make sure the screen or board is not moving a hair between passes.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Printor said:


> By tight I mean clamp/s and shirt board. Make sure the screen or board is not moving a hair between passes.


Thanks, I will check that too.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Friend of mine told me I should flash on every print. Once I run squeegee he said I should Flash and print again. Does it really need flashing every time I run squeegee.?


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Don't flash until you have a good smooth print. down in the fabric n all, weather it takes one pass or 10. If it looks rough it will dry rough. quality of first print before flashing will usually determine the quality of finished print.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Printor said:


> Don't flash until you have a good smooth print. down in the fabric n all, weather it takes one pass or 10. If it looks rough it will dry rough. quality of first print before flashing will usually determine the quality of finished print.


Thank you for the advice, I will try that way.


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## ShirlandDesign (Nov 29, 2009)

> quality of first print before flashing will usually determine the quality of finished print.


That's an interesting point. he first ten feet of road you cut with a bulldozer sets how smooth the rest of the cut is.


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## abetterimage (Sep 8, 2007)

Peter, I'm hoping that since this thread is over 2 months old that you solved your problem. I've had this trouble occasionally in the past and found these causes:
1) Tightness of press. I moved from an old Brown to a new Vastex and that went away forever. You've got a great press, so that's not likely the issue if it's set up correctly.
2) Loose screen mesh and/or push/pull on flood and stroke. Sounds like that's not your problem.
3) Improper flood. Ever since attending a seminar with Charlie Taublieb, I flood stroke at almost 90*, kind of scraping across the screen, leaving it almost clean except for the open screen areas. This fills the screen but doesn't force any extra ink down into the screen on your flood. If you have downward pressure on your flood you could be pushing ink through the screen when flooding.
4) Too much stroke pressure - whether pushing or pulling. I push, and have forced ink under the screen using too much pressure. You have to "dial it in" as a printer. A sharp squeegee and tight screens does not take a heavy hand to get the ink through onto the shirt. Your goal should be the lightest stroke that gets ink on the shirt.

Too much off contact can cause problems if you're doing multiple strokes because the screen tends to snap back and pull the ink with it which could smear the next time the screen is brought down.

Another problem can be thick material, such as sweatshirts, which has a "give" to it as your squeegee passes. Using the right pressure and making sure you have plenty of tackiness on your platen help prevent this. We often spray web spray between EVERY sweatshirt to help prevent this.

Hope some of this helps you, or others reading this post. If you could post your solution it would be great.


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## nekkron99 (Jan 14, 2015)

I know it's old, but just in case someone new has come to the thread with the same issue... Nobody has mentioned spray tack. It's possible the shirt is moving underneath. I've had this happen a few times when the tack wasn't tacky enough.


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## acmescreen123 (Mar 24, 2014)

one of my printers had the same problem. he was using too much pressure with too many passes in each print. the problem was fixed with flood, print (same direction) flash, flood, print. All squeegee passes in the same direction.


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## Bartok Spinelly (Jan 15, 2014)

nekkron99 said:


> I know it's old, but just in case someone new has come to the thread with the same issue... Nobody has mentioned spray tack. It's possible the shirt is moving underneath. I've had this happen a few times when the tack wasn't tacky enough.


I was having a similar issue on my auto. I would load the shirt on well tacked boards, and get smear on the end of the print/stroke.
Try smoothing the shirt or whatever you are printing down to the platen
before printing. Don't use your first pass with the squeegee to stick the shirt to the platen.


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## BobMotep (Jan 21, 2013)

> 4) Too much stroke pressure - whether pushing or pulling. I push, and have forced ink under the screen using too much pressure. You have to "dial it in" as a printer. A sharp squeegee and tight screens does not take a heavy hand to get the ink through onto the shirt. Your goal should be the lightest stroke that gets ink on the shirt.


When training new printers this is the biggest issue, I tell them they are supposed to be screen printing, not screen mashing. I would suggest after flooding, just look under the screen before you print, you'll see if you forced ink out of the stencil before the print. If you drop your wrists, and use too much pressure, it will force the ink out of the stencil during the print. Both will give you the mushy smeared edges. Some Kiwo On Press cleaner will clean that right up. Mushy squeegees and loose screens can play into it, but I'm thinking it's technique more than anything. White ink is where you see this the most because some are like taffy and not very viscous so human nature is to force it and you get blown out edges.


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## paata01 (Aug 31, 2013)

Thank you everyone, I would not even get closer getting so much help in DTG section lol, I think we are having real good progress in printing, As mentioned it can be anything, one of my guys is almost shaking when passing squeegee on screen  White ink is most difficult, it its cold in the office, it gets so thick first few prints are almost force printed. I was looking for a golden rule for off contact, should I put two coins on the pallet to get best off contact? I also have VRS from Vastex, which also can be used for off contact. I took classes with RYONET, great guys a lot of knowledge, but it takes more experience than learning and doing right away.


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