# embroidery backing



## buehrle (Jan 14, 2008)

ok so i started my machine tonight without any backing on the hoop but caught it after a few stitches, i backed it up and rather than re-hooping (feeling lazy) i just slid a piece in and started it up. it came out fine. so to all you pro's out there do i need to hoop my backing or did i just get lucky ? i am using tear away if it matters.


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

You got lucky! Always hoop.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

You got lucky. You can do it that way but the results will be unpredictable. Better to hoop.


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## FatKat Printz (Dec 26, 2008)

I agree, Luck!! Always use backing I suggest fast frames if you want something quick. They can't be used on all projects but they are really good for those quick jobs.


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## AndTees (Jul 6, 2009)

It's actually the backing that should move the garment... once a few stitches are down, the garment is just along for the ride. You'd be better off to hoop the backing and float the item.


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## todie (May 29, 2009)

Pure luck!


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## scuba_steve2699 (Nov 15, 2006)

another one for the luck!


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## muneca (Sep 30, 2008)

hey, does anyone know how to stitch on patent leather w/out the backing?


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## FatKat Printz (Dec 26, 2008)

I use solvy on top and bottom or tear away for leather.


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## leisure (Mar 3, 2007)

FatKat Printz said:


> I agree, Luck!! Always use backing I suggest fast frames if you want something quick. They can't be used on all projects but they are really good for those quick jobs.


Not trying to sound stupid but how do you float the item????


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## buehrle (Jan 14, 2008)

thanks. well lucky is my middle name. let me ask you why i have to hoop it if it gets sewn to the garment ? won't it just slide around and get attached with it ? is it just that it has to be tight ?


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## baldrick (Sep 24, 2007)

leisure said:


> Not trying to sound stupid but how do you float the item????


Hoop your stabiliser and lay your garment/piece over the top, spray tack can help if needed but the first few stitches and some carefully placed crocodile clips will help.
useful if you`re doing something like thick sweaters or horse blankets.
Baldrick.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

buehrle said:


> thanks. well lucky is my middle name. let me ask you why i have to hoop it if it gets sewn to the garment ? won't it just slide around and get attached with it ? is it just that it has to be tight ?


Better results if it is hooped together with the garment. Needs to be tight and smooth.


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## todie (May 29, 2009)

buehrle it's gonna sound stupid but it's the best way I know to explain it (excuse me if it's not clear, I'm french so...):
I'm gonna compare the fabric to a trampoline & the needle would be the person who jumps on it.

*If your fabric is stiff (like twill):* it's like a child jumping on a trampoline made to support adult weight...the movement of the needle won't make your fabric "jump" too much so your lucky guy technic might work.
*If your fabric is stretchy or lightweight (like...most of them):* it's like an adult trying to jump on a kid's trampoline. If the adult is really small & jumps lightly (little design not too dense-like a redwork) the trampoline might hold on. Au contraire, if the adult is overweight and jumps with all his strength (a normal fill design) than the trampoline will break...unless you put a table or something under (the backing). If you don't hoop the backing it would be like you put a wood board under the trampoline, that's not helping at all!

Was it understandable?


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## todie (May 29, 2009)

I forgot: if you want to make sure everything is tight enough you can tap gently on your fabric. If it's tight enough it's gonna sound like a tambourine.

So your trampoline should play a little "tambourine music" to excuse itself for not letting your needle have fun jumping.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

Look at it this way. *You are actually embroidering the backing *since it is the most stable of the two materials. It just so happens that your material is in between the backing and the thread.


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

Hooped backing stabilizes the embroidered item especially if you have older hoops that can loosen slightly during the end run of a long running design.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

todie said:


> buehrle it's gonna sound stupid but it's the best way I know to explain it (excuse me if it's not clear, I'm french so...):
> I'm gonna compare the fabric to a trampoline & the needle would be the person who jumps on it.
> 
> *If your fabric is stiff (like twill):* it's like a child jumping on a trampoline made to support adult weight...the movement of the needle won't make your fabric "jump" too much so your lucky guy technic might work.
> ...


This is the best explanation I have ever read. Thanks so much for posting.


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## buehrle (Jan 14, 2008)

got it. but i think i was just called fat ! i always hooped it before just didn't really know why or if it mattered. it was always the " that's how it's always been" kind of thing. thanks.


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## Prinsz (Oct 6, 2008)

ha ha great writing there frenchy


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## todie (May 29, 2009)

I do my best!


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## Prinsz (Oct 6, 2008)

Yep it was very understandable


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## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

For what it's worth....I rarely hoop my backing. It's a total waste of stabilizer.


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## buehrle (Jan 14, 2008)

hmmmm. some do some don't. if the backing is not tight is it just as bad as not hooping ? sometimes my backing is not tight but i have never had a problem. i use a babylock emp6, not to fancy i know but i don't need a multi head for the stuff i'm doing. what about a hat hoop when it is only clamped at the brim ? thanks guys.


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

When hooped correctly backing should be tight against the fabric. Depending on the fabric, not using backing can cause poor registration, "pullouts" and holes. Baseball style hats don't always need backing especially if they have buckram but by taking up additional space, backing can reduce needle breaking when embroidering hats.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

buehrle said:


> hmmmm. some do some don't. if the backing is not tight is it just as bad as not hooping ? sometimes my backing is not tight but i have never had a problem. i use a babylock emp6, not to fancy i know but i don't need a multi head for the stuff i'm doing. what about a hat hoop when it is only clamped at the brim ? thanks guys.



If you use a hoopmaster for hooping, you NEVER have to worry about your backing not being tight like it SHOULD be. It is worth the investment. I use it for EVERYTHING that I don't use my fast frames for.


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## customclothe (Jul 5, 2012)

buehrle said:


> ok so i started my machine tonight without any backing on the hoop but caught it after a few stitches, i backed it up and rather than re-hooping (feeling lazy) i just slid a piece in and started it up. it came out fine. so to all you pro's out there do i need to hoop my backing or did i just get lucky ? i am using tear away if it matters.


Yikes! You are lucky, buddy! The first time I tried that I didn't hoop and whoopdewhoop. Don't you have sticky stabilizer or just something to hold it into place?


________________
custom clothing since 2006
and embroidery designs


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

Given that the fabric you are embroidering doesn't need too much stabilization since you are using tear away rather than cutaway then you are more likely to be okay. If the fabric is stable and not particularly affecting by stitching (doesn't stretch) and the design isn't too detailed or long-running then you can get away with that. But, hooping is much safer and will produce better results. If there is any potential for shifting while the design is running you'll have registration problems (and possibly a lost garment) if the item isn't properly stabilized.


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

unless it's a hat. hats don't need backing unless it's on the wool/cotton part by itself.


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

Sometimes adding backing to hats with buckram can help take up unwanted space if the hats don't fit your frame.


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