# tajima 12 needle problem



## danasouthall (Jun 25, 2007)

I have a Tajima 12 needle tmex c 1201. I would like to throw it out the window right now. It refuses to do hats. I have broke probably a case of needles today. It won't sew caps on any needle. I hit start and instantly it breaks the needle in the first five stitches. But then strangely enough, i was able to convince it to go--it sewed one cap perfectly. I put the next cap on? and needles break. I have adjusted the needle plate--adjusted the cap frame to be sure it is centered. It sews just fine on things OTHER than caps. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions? I have a TON of caps that need to be done. I have my other machine busy doing other things.....


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

Use a 80/12 needle and slow machine down to 600spm

Sent from my GT-N7000 using T-Shirt Forums


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## danasouthall (Jun 25, 2007)

Tried that too! I usually sew all my caps at 600. Any other ideas? I am desperate!


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

are you using your hat button that came with the jig? its a small button that you put over the hole where the needle strikes.


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## danasouthall (Jun 25, 2007)

Yes I always change it out when doing caps.


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## wonderchic (Aug 29, 2012)

This must be going around! I have fought with my Tajima all day! Even had to break down and call tech support. All because I couldn't get it to sew hats! Ugh. I wound up having to tear the bottom apart and reset the hook timing. I have done it a total of three times today. The secs tech guy gave me the best advice...to make sure when the needle is down as far as it will go to make sure that is when the hook is directly in the middle of the scarf of the needle.l.i marked it with a sharpie so I would know. That finally got it back into time and we ran threw the hats we had to get done today. 

I don't know if that advice will help but I rally hope you get yours sewing again. Nothing makes me quests my choice of careers than a day of fighting the machines. Good luck to ya...

And while you are messing with that rotary hook, be sure to check for scratches from your broken needles hitting it!!! Sand me off with a finger nail buffer!


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## cathyr (Feb 10, 2009)

I have a couple of questions. I run a 19 head tajima shop with a majority of it on hats. What type of hats were you running? What brand ( not size) of needles were you using? What type of stabilizer is in the hat? Maybe I can help.


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## customcaps (Mar 27, 2009)

for what u have done,
I'll check in the head has play...
if you have reset hook time, check the gap needle/hook, and try to give it some more gap to the setting.

Have you tried to steam the font of the cap? so the front of the cap is more flat?


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## danasouthall (Jun 25, 2007)

I read thru all the FAQ on tajimas website and found a couple of things To try. Not sure which one worked? Or maybe it was both if them....I adjusted my cap frame to be tighter as well as adjusted the way I had hooped the hat. I was able to compete that job that day. In regard to a Previous reply: I was running a structured hat--flex fit. I had used a tear away cap backing. I have noticed that unstructured hats dont seem to be a problem. Structured hats are the needle breakers for me. Could it be because the Structured" hats don't Lay as flat? I took a little longer getting them hooped but it seemed to work?


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## cathyr (Feb 10, 2009)

Flexfit hats take some patience. I use a foam backing with a peice of tearaway. I put the foam next to the hat and the tearaway on the outside. This eliminates the movement in the hat when the needle penetrates. The problem you are having can occur if the jump in the hat is combined with tensions that are too tight and needles that are not the best quality. Our shop has used many brands of needles over the years and find we prefer Schmetz (ball point 75-11). Make sure your top tensions are not so tight that they are adding stress to the needle.

We ran a job once using Madeira needles and out of twelve heads, the breakage was 2 heads per run. I threw them out, retensioned the machine and we had no more problems.

Also- it is important that your digitizer knows that the design is sewing on a hat.

I hate running flexfits- but unfortunately that is what the customer wants!


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## 23putts (Nov 15, 2007)

The only time my Barudan breaks needles is when I try to sew a design to low on a structured hat. I keep my designs limited to 46mm tall for this reason. Got 96 to do this morning...not looking forward to it.

The reason structured hats are such a problem is a combination of the stiff buckram in the two front panels and the excess material folded under the sweatband. It makes a void between the hat and needle plate. When the presser foot presses on the hat it closes the void between the hat/needle plate, which moves the hat and bends the needle enough to miss the needle plate hole...resulting in a broken needle.


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