# Printing neon pink on black shirts



## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

Hey guys, really learned a lot on this forum. I needed some tips before I get started. I really need input, so give any details you think will help. I'm printing on 50/50 Gildan black shirt with Ryonet Hot Pink ink. I am going to make 2 screens, so I can lay a white under base. I previously tried it without the under base and had terrible results. This has been by far my most frustrating order and now I'm down to a tight deadline. So thanks for any input and advice, no tip is too small.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

underbase is definitely needed for a vibrant neon color on darks (neon inks tend to have allot of transparency to them).
make sure to choke your underbase slightly


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

Ya I read I needed to choke it down at least a couple of pixels. Any tips on getting the transparencies and frames all lined up exactly the same. I'm a little freaked out about that part.


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## embroicoinc (Nov 11, 2008)

we just printed a crazy neon green/yellow on black with no underbase, requires a little patience and ingenuity what we did was set up 1 screen and mix 2 sets of ink, first is your neon with white ink mixed in and a touch of puff, then in the other glob of ink use a touch of white and a touch of puff as well, print your first whiter ink and flash if needed print & flash again, whenever you squeegee last make sure you clear the screen then use the neon color ink and print again, pass through the dryer, should look killer! takes a little extra time but the results are beautiful, we did a front center chest and back below the collar on black t's


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

I have 110 screens, will they work.?


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## embroicoinc (Nov 11, 2008)

depends on your design, if it is all solid with no halftones they should be fine, if you have all kinds of fine lines and halftones then you would want to go 230 or 305 depending, we primarily print on 156 but everyone here has their won preference


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## BRTdesign (Sep 19, 2010)

The Hot Pink from RYONET shouldnt need and white underbase because I think its opaque but maybe not but a white underbase would help a lot and would pop of the shirt! the RyOpaque ink from ryonet dont need any underbase on dark(black) shirts hope this helps!


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

If not the under base then what was my problem. Just seemed that enough ink was getting through and the shirts were inconsistent. Either it all looked faded or different parts did each time. I just want to go the safest route and get this done. Thanks for all of the input. Really taking it all in.


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## BRTdesign (Sep 19, 2010)

Maybe your squeegee pressure is not consistent that could be it! also making a lower squeegee angle this will lay down more in on your t's Hope this helps!


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## embroicoinc (Nov 11, 2008)

the ink is translucent so whatever your underbase looks like is what the finished pink will look like, so if your white base is not 100% solid bright white then your pink wont be either


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## missswissinc (Feb 21, 2012)

to help line up 2 screens we usually put some (+) signs in the corners. we would print the first color like today I'm doing a 4 h job. I would print the black and keep the (+) open. print and flash till somewhat tacky. bring the next screen down and move it till it aligns up with the (+) signs. that is why they said choke the underbase abit incase your not totally lined up correctly. I have done a another 2 color job and didn't have problems once I lined up the (+) signs.


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

If your printing on 50/50 you gotta be really careful about how hot the shirts get. Based on what you described it sounds like you got them too hot which causes dye migration. Try to keep the ink between 325 and 330. A white underbase will help. I would even go as far as hit flash hitting the white base before printing pink.


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

Thanks again for all of the tips. I am going to give it a shot tomorrow and will let you all know what works. Great advice and thanks again.


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## latitude42 (Sep 26, 2007)

Check to make sure your off contact is the same all round the screen....


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## TshirtStan (May 4, 2008)

I have printed several times with Hot Neon Pink and never used an underbase. Of course it was P / F / P and it worked fine. It wasn't ryonet ink....it was Union Ink...but the Neon pink is basically white ink and I treated it that way. I hope you find your answer with possibly your technique.


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## porkchopharry (Mar 4, 2012)

True neon pink is pretty transparent I believe or at least the stuff I have is. 

Do you need TRUE hot pink? I switched from Ryonets IC neon pink to One Stroke Ink's Colormax brite pink and WOW. No underbase. Very close match to the traditional hot pink. I also noticed the Ryonet hot pink faded after a few washes. 

Call One Stroke Ink and ask for Steve Anderson, they can mix you up a special batch at no additional cost. Tell him what you need. You probably want a Hybrid Brite Pink Colormax, will work on cotton and 50/50 which is what I have ver smooth and creamy and easy to print. I also have a true UV pink from them that glows in black light that is really opaque on dark shirts, it's more red though.

Anyway call Steve, tell him exactly what you need and he'll make a recommendation. Tell him Andrew in LA sent you. I don't get anything out of it, just like their stuff and like to help him out. 

One thing they are more expensive than Ryonet, probably about $60 if all you need is a quart. But, you will love the time you save without having to burn another screen. Time is money. Ask for some samples too. Their Hybrid White kicks ***!


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## screeningdude (Nov 15, 2011)

Darold31 said:


> Hey guys, really learned a lot on this forum. I needed some tips before I get started. I really need input, so give any details you think will help. I'm printing on 50/50 Gildan black shirt with Ryonet Hot Pink ink. I am going to make 2 screens, so I can lay a white under base. I previously tried it without the under base and had terrible results. This has been by far my most frustrating order and now I'm down to a tight deadline. So thanks for any input and advice, no tip is too small.


There are opaque fluorescent inks that do not require an underbase. If you are not using an opaque fluorescent ink then you do need a white underbase since the inks are translucent. Check with you ink manufacturer. . there are 2 types of fluorescent ink. . . some suppliers don't have a clue.


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## cbaldwin (Feb 3, 2012)

Union Ink's Aurora pink is awesome as a p/f/p on darks. No underbase needed.


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

I agree. I use Union also, but when printing on 50/50 or 100% poly you gotta be really careful with your temps.


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

Just wanted to say thanks again. I'm rolling through the shirts now. I'll post details later, so the next noobie will have this post to help. The advice was much appreciated.


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## Darold31 (Jul 11, 2012)

So here is what I did:

Did 2 coats of emulsion on my screen. Flood screen and 2 swipes. Flash. Then flood and 2 swipes. Flash and done. I did lower my squeegee angle a lot and I took time to make sure my board wasn't to hot after my 1st flash, before I did my last print. I made sure to clear my screen after every 25 shirts or so. Not sure how much of this was right, but the results were perfect. The ink showed up nice and bright.


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