# First print great, then screen clogs...



## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

Hey all. VERY new to this... took the Ryonet class, but other than that, this is my first day printing.

I have a design with fairly basic halftones; I tried burning it into a 230 and 305 mesh, and it seemed like the 305 had a little more detail, so I am using that screen. The stencil is in very good shape... no pinholes after a tad bit of touch up pen.

So the first print went really well... the ink is a bit thick, but I was able to get a solid coat down with a few swipes. I did the second print, and it was very faint, even after making a few more passes. I then noticed that the screen was extremely clogged.

I'm using Ryonet's black plastisol, straight out of the bucket.

A few questions:

1. Do I need to put some reducer in?

2. My off-contact is 1/8"... should I raise it?

3. Do I need to clean the mesh in any way, or should the ink clear out on its own once everything is in order?

Thanks!


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## HQCPSpecialTs (Sep 27, 2013)

How do you mean the screen is clogged? Are you flashing? It sounds like maybe your garment is still too hot from the flash when pressing your next color. I have never used ryonet, but I have never seen ink itself clog a screen.


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## steve1953 (Oct 29, 2014)

I don't usually recommend using a non curable reducer. Soft hand clear is a curable reducer that you can use as freely as you wish and may help.
Some plastisols are heavy bodied or thicker on purpose, intended to give a thick athletic look or to improve opacity. It's possible but unlikely that the 305 mesh is acting like a filter to screen out large particles. If the 200 mesh works then you know that is the problem. Also - less work is better so if one pull of the squeege on a 200 works then multiple pulls using a 305 is not necessarily better.


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## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

HQCPSpecialTs said:


> How do you mean the screen is clogged? Are you flashing? It sounds like maybe your garment is still too hot from the flash when pressing your next color. I have never used ryonet, but I have never seen ink itself clog a screen.


No flashing... it's a one color job.


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## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

By clogged, I mean that there is a lot of ink left over in the mesh after I run the squeegee over it after multiple tries, and instead of a solid black, which I got after the first try, the ink looks faded.


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## steve1953 (Oct 29, 2014)

Try a coarser mesh is my best suggestion.


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## rwshirts (Dec 5, 2007)

earwicker7 said:


> Hey all. VERY new to this... took the Ryonet class, but other than that, this is my first day printing.
> 
> I have a design with fairly basic halftones; I tried burning it into a 230 and 305 mesh, and it seemed like the 305 had a little more detail, so I am using that screen. The stencil is in very good shape... no pinholes after a tad bit of touch up pen.
> 
> ...


Are you sure it's plastisol ink and not a Ryonet water based ink? Ryonet seems to use a lot of water based inks. If it's WB ink, you have to flood the screen between printings, or it will set in the screens.


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## PatWibble (Mar 7, 2014)

Are you curing on the platen? Sounds like the platen is too hot, flashing the ink in the screen when you print the second shirt.


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## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

rwshirts said:


> Are you sure it's plastisol ink and not a Ryonet water based ink? Ryonet seems to use a lot of water based inks. If it's WB ink, you have to flood the screen between printings, or it will set in the screens.


100% sure it's plastisol... I'm not ready to take on water based yet.


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## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

PatWibble said:


> Are you curing on the platen? Sounds like the platen is too hot, flashing the ink in the screen when you print the second shirt.


I did cure on the platen, but a pretty substantial amount of time passed before I tried the second one... I'd say at least ten minutes.


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## PatWibble (Mar 7, 2014)

earwicker7 said:


> I did cure on the platen, but a pretty substantial amount of time passed before I tried the second one... I'd say at least ten minutes.


Was the screen over the flash unit when you were curing? There could be enough heat rising to do the damage.

It is always best to remove the shirt and cure on another surface ( you can flash first if you think it will make the shirt easier to handle when wet.


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## earwicker7 (Oct 27, 2014)

PatWibble said:


> Was the screen over the flash unit when you were curing? There could be enough heat rising to do the damage.


Good question... I honestly don't remember. I'll look out for this the next time.


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

You're working too hard. It's a b*tch to get a nice even print through such fine mesh, especially when you're just learning to print. I use 158 mesh for ALL my prints. Opaque ink, spot color, and halftones. The finest halftone dot I've used so far is 50 lpi but I'm going to experiment with going even higher on the 158. Don't be afraid to add a little curable reducer to your inks. Just a tiny bit will make it noticeably thinner, resulting in a softer feel and easier printing.

As you progress in your new career, you'll find that the easier you make your life the happier and more productive you'll be.


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

PatWibble said:


> Was the screen over the flash unit when you were curing?


LOL, the first week I was in business (12 years ago...) I accidentally positioned the flash over the screen that was in the down position on the pallet while I answered my phone. It immediately cured the ink and ruined the screen and the mesh.


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