# Coveyor Dryer for DTG ink curing



## bornover

Those of you using a conveyor dryer to cure DTG prints, could you pass along some insights and experiences, and what dryer you use? Please.

I am looking to purchase a dryer. I do not want to cure by heat press any longer if I don't have to.

My thoughts are that it will significantly help increase production (especially with multiple DTG machines), and be an easier operation for the people on the floor.


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## allamerican-aeoon

Mark,
Dryer is the good option for production but these days multi draw style drying cabinet is getting popular to large production companies. It all start from Italy Mfg 2.5 years ago. Kornit adopt this concept instead of huge gas dryer simple electric draw system. All future speedy printer will follow this trend. Exam: Kornit breeze will keep up with 2 draws. 
Let's say if you want to dry every shirts in 60 seconds on dark because no printer produce this fast yet. figure how many heat presses do we need? I figured 4-5 heats presses. My calculation(normal heat press needs 90sec + 90sec + double hit timing reload after release steams from ink + load/unload/walk = 240 seconds) but here can you see the production area picture? 4-5 heat press going on and people are running into each other and getting confused which one was first hit and which one is not. Think about utility bill. 1500W x 5 = 7500watts.
Keep adding heat press is not the best idea in my opinion. I see/agree where you are coming from.
Many and most future faster printers will have draw system to match out (my opinion only). I predict this few years back and worked on it but I could be wrong.

Belt Dryer vs Draw cabinet dryer.
1. Foot print (30"-48"-60" gas/electric dryer) 3'infeed 8'heat 2' outfeed 13' x width vs 4'x4' or 4x5 depends on mfg design.
2. Continue belt moving in heating area 4-7 minutes (depends on ink choice) vs Dry capacity of 30sec/light 60sec/dark.
3. open heat vs closed heat. waste heat. shop will be warm in winter time. Summer?
4. installation. shipping. rental space
5. price: 36" 8' heat chamber $10,000(?) ~ $25000 vs Italian company,Hirsh. HIX. AA have different price tags.


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## DAGuide

I am not a fan of the dryer cabinets... not from how they work, but the ergonomics of them. I have worked with one that the printer sat on top of it at a couple of shows. The problem I have with it is you do a lot of bending down to put the shirt into the drawer. If you did this all day long, your back is definitely going to feel it. If you go with one of the stand alone dryer cabinets that typically have more drawers, it can be challenging for some people (shorter guys and most girls) to load garment in the top drawers. The other thing is it definitely gets hot around the dryer cabinet because you are constantly opening and closing the drawers. So think about the location that you are going to put the dryer cabinet.

They do a pretty good job of moving air flow to help remove the moisture in the air - possibly even better than most of the conveyor dryers. They are also very good at drying the non-flat items (i.e. shoes, caps,...) that don't always fit through the entry / exit holes on a conveyor dryer. And of course they take up a lot less floor space as Peter stated.

If I was the O.P., I would make sure that if I only wanted to use a dryer to cure a garment... that it gives me the washability I want for the inks that I am using. I do know several people that have cured garments using a conveyor dryer and Dupont inks, but they all used a heat press afterwards to get the best washability. So go to a show and have your dtg manufacturer / ink manufacturer print a shirt and run it through the dryer you are considering purchasing. If you find out that you get the washability you desired, then that dryer becomes a possible option.

Good luck as you research this project.

Mark


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## equipmentzone

You should also take into account the cost of the electricity needed to run each specific type. Check the voltages and amps for each type and remember that you are likely to have them running continuously all day long. 

Harry
Equipment Zone


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## allamerican-aeoon

Mark
As always you always have many good points. 



DAGuide said:


> I am not a fan of the dryer cabinets... not from how they work, but the ergonomics of them. I have worked with one that the printer sat on top of it at a couple of shows. The problem I have with it is you do a lot of bending down to put the shirt into the drawer.
> On Kornit unit only. However you can use table to raise up is option.
> If you did this all day long, your back is definitely going to feel it. If you go with one of the stand alone dryer cabinets that typically have more drawers, it can be challenging for some people (shorter guys and most girls) to load garment in the top drawers.
> Highest draw is 4.5 feet high and lowest is 26 inch from the ground while desk is 30" high.
> The other thing is it definitely gets hot around the dryer cabinet because you are constantly opening and closing the drawers.
> When users open a draw there are valve cut off that air flow to minimize hot air waste. And good insulation will create less heat to the room than one heat press. No burning also by heat press. No heat press mark
> So think about the location that you are going to put the dryer cabinet.
> Closest to the printer
> 
> They do a pretty good job of moving air flow to help remove the moisture in the air - possibly even better than most of the conveyor dryers. They are also very good at drying the non-flat items (i.e. shoes, caps,...) that don't always fit through the entry / exit holes on a conveyor dryer. And of course they take up a lot less floor space as Peter stated.
> Application of drying items is unlimited. canvas. tile. plastic. leather ----etc. Your imaginations.
> Space and distance to walk is lot closer than a dryer.
> 
> If I was the O.P., I would make sure that if I only wanted to use a dryer to cure a garment... that it gives me the washability I want for the inks that I am using. I do know several people that have cured garments using a conveyor dryer and Dupont inks, but they all used a heat press afterwards to get the best washability.
> If draw dryer need re-press with heat press. All mfg should not sell at all. On belt dryer I heard that also. AA did wash test for months and find out there are no different between them. Only thing different is smooth surface vs screen print look only.
> So go to a show and have your dtg manufacturer / ink manufacturer print a shirt and run it through the dryer you are considering purchasing. If you find out that you get the washability you desired, then that dryer becomes a possible option.
> That is the best way. We run this dryer at shows and we gave to attendees for sample. Yet no one said it washed out.
> 
> Good luck as you research this project.
> Research always pays you back.


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## allamerican-aeoon

equipmentzone said:


> You should also take into account the cost of the electricity needed to run each specific type. Check the voltages and amps for each type and remember that you are likely to have them running continuously all day long.


Another good point.
Heat press: require many people to keep up fast production.
Dryer: Someone has to stay at the end of dryer check damage and receive instead of leave box at the end and wait for fill up. Often get jammed.
Cabinet: As you load and unload you can check every time.
Utility cost:
I don't know about other state. PA 1kwh commercial 110v is 7 cents.
Heat press is 1500 watts so it means 7x1.5= 10.5 cents per hour.
If you use 220V 1ph wattage will go down 1/2 it will become 750watts. If you use 3ph it will even go lower. Utility company has lower rate on 220V and more on 3ph.
2000 watts (idle)- 3000 watts(peak) is typical cabinet draw dryer required. Each one should calculate with their local rate. I am sure on less wasting heat than dryer and many heat presses will make utility cost lower than any out there. Think about 6 heat press going in your room and belt dryer running same. HOT! you will never find a worker unless winter time when business is slow.
Also smoke from belt dryer is killer! heat press has some but not bad as Belt dryer. Cabinet 99% go out with vent (4").
Unfortunately this will not fit to one DTG owners.


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## bornover

DAGuide said:


> ...If I was the O.P., I would make sure that if I only wanted to use a dryer to cure a garment... that it gives me the washability I want for the inks that I am using. I do know several people that have cured garments using a conveyor dryer and Dupont inks, but they all used a heat press afterwards to get the best washability. ...


That is news to me. I thought there were people using the conveyor dryers exclusively for curing DTG prints. Having the dryer and heat presses on sounds energy inefficient to me. And more possible equipment problems because more equipment is involved. Does not sound like a simpler better operation to me. I am looking for a simple, productive and cost effective drying operation (with ultimately a quality product).

Another requirement I failed to mention is that the drying operation has to pull double duty; DTG and screen print curing.

Is what I am after not reality yet?


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## DAGuide

Mark,

I have been in a lot of shops and seen a wide range of what some people find acceptable. Only you and your customers know what is acceptable for your products. I am not trying to sell you one way or another, just telling you to make sure that the results using the same equipment / inks are acceptable before you make the investment. For some users, they required a short time in the heat press to get all the moisture out of the ink depending on what resolutions they were printing. Here is another thread where you have people talking about what they do with a conveyor - http://www.t-shirtforums.com/dtg-brand/t130716.html. Better to be safe than sorry in my opinion.

As for using the dryer for both dtg and screen printing, it should not be an issue. Most of the dryers I know that work with dtg printing can be used for both waterbased and plastisol screen print inks by making some adjustments to the dryer (i.e. belt speed, height of elements,...).

Good luck with your research!

Mark


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## bornover

Thanks for the link Mark. I had seen that one but the real info is a year old now. I was hoping people that are using conveyor dryers to cure DTG prints would offer some insights and experiences along with exactly what dryers they are using now.

Peter, the digital drawer dryer is only DTG ink curing, not good for screen prints, correct? And I can find only one brand, Adelco?


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## Pvasquez

We currently run 3 digital machines and really just use a dryer to cure, using an M&R Radicure 36" with the 4th panel. Although it is a bit of an energy hog it cures the ink no problems running at 710 Deg F @ 2 ft per minute. one person can keep up with loading machines and stacking but with two it's a bit easier.


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## allamerican-aeoon

Adelco: is it Italian company? I forget the name. I saw his dryer at EU show. HIX followed. UK company followed. They both are in bed with Kornit. go to hirshinternational.com hixcorp.com richmondgraphic.com. All American, we only married with multi NeoFlex users. I want to try to contact Anajet M and DTG M that will be a good match. I show to Matt in Brother already at the show.
Screen Print? I never try this because AA did not make Sahara6 for that purpose. Waterbase ink100% will do. Plastisol? not sure until test and wash hundreds of times before announce.
And these unit are much cheaper than 5-6 heat presses (I am not talking about Made in China one)


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## allamerican-aeoon

Pvasquez said:


> We currently run 3 digital machines and really just use a dryer to cure, using an M&R Radicure 36" with the 4th panel. Although it is a bit of an energy hog it cures the ink no problems running at 710 Deg F @ 2 ft per minute. one person can keep up with loading machines and stacking but with two it's a bit easier.


That is great to know! How about smokes coming out from end zone?
Speed 2' per minute = your each heat chamber is 24"(18" heat pannel)x 4 = 8 feet long + 1' in+ 1' out frame. That is pretty big dryer. Infeed belt 3'? outfeed belt 3'? What is foot print? 
So shirts will stay in heat chamber be 5 minutes . 120"/24"speed = 5min.
I thought you are reseller never knew you are printer too. Any of your customers have no issue on that? Or is that a one of your customers?


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## bornover

Thank you Peter. What is the Sahara6? I can't find it on your website.

As always, I get a kick out of how Peter finds a way to knock his competition, "They both are in bed with Kornit". Solid professional working relationships that keep companies in business and employing people in this economy does not sound like that bad of a thing to me. Don't worry Peter, I want one of your Neoflex machines over the others right now.

But lets not let this thread move off topic. What Pablo posted is exactly what I was hoping for. Others?


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## FatKat Printz

bornover said:


> Thank you Peter. What is the Sahara6? I can't find it on your website.


SaharaSix DTG shirt drier « All American Manufacturing & Supply Co.

Sahara 6

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t147982-8.html

I have seen this in action its very quiet and really doesn't take up that much room. Perfect for those with limited space


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## Pvasquez

allamerican said:


> That is great to know! How about smokes coming out from end zone?
> Speed 2' per minute = your each heat chamber is 24"(18" heat pannel)x 4 = 8 feet long + 1' in+ 1' out frame. That is pretty big dryer. Infeed belt 3'? outfeed belt 3'? What is foot print?
> So shirts will stay in heat chamber be 5 minutes . 120"/24"speed = 5min.
> I thought you are reseller never knew you are printer too. Any of your customers have no issue on that? Or is that a one of your customers?


We only do it as a service for the trade so only for our customers that are in the business of apparel decorating so current customers have an advantage of not turning down potential profits until they can see a value of purchasing a machine. So we are not direct competition. We also allow them to use the equipment when they have the time to analyze costs etc. 
Getting back to topic the dryer is not small it's got 6' of heat so at that speed the shirt is in the tunnel for 3 minutes but on a 36" belt your never really backed up. As far as smoke yes you will have smoke but with the proper ventilation it's a non issue. We had the little EconoMax D 3 with the 24" belt we ran at 800 deg but it was closer to 1' per minute in a 4' tunnel and that was a bit of a bottle neck but with one machine it worked pretty good.


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## zoom_monster

bornover said:


> Another requirement I failed to mention is that the drying operation has to pull double duty; DTG and screen print curing.
> 
> Is what I am after not reality yet?


Mark, If you are curing waterbased inks then this may be an option, but curing plastisol and DTG would be way different and would be a bottleneck for the screen print operation, unless we're talking about a big high capacity unit. Dryers that cure waterbased ink have to be vented, be longer and/or slower than a machine that would be used for plastisol.


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## Pvasquez

bornover said:


> Another requirement I failed to mention is that the drying operation has to pull double duty; DTG and screen print curing.
> 
> Is what I am after not reality yet?


I missed this part I will let you know from my personal R&D the reason why I'm going so slow in the dryer is only for dark shirts, I have found that the white is the real issue when drying in a conveyor dryer not the colors so you can speed it up and adjust heat but it's how long the white really needs to maintain that 330-350 deg. Unlike plastisol where all you really need is to hit 320 and done you really don't want to run them side by side unless you get a split belt where you can run 1 temp two speeds, unless your screen printing all day then this would probably be too big of a cost for a 48" electric or 38" gas dryer. One last tip some garments won't be good in a dryer as the preTreat will discolor the shirt such as charcoal etc. Due to the heat. Havent really got a good time for these but doing them on a transfer machine so you will still need the transfer machine on some goods. hope this helps but 90% of what we do the dryer is fine. When I run across a shirt that discolors we put it on our notes for future similar production runs. 
At the end of the day it will run double duty but not at the same time. Hope this helps.


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## bornover

That info helps very much Pablo. I have had problems with pretreat discoloring using a heat press on many garments already. 

I don't have the volume yet to worry about needing to run screen prints and DTG prints through the same dryer at the same time. My goal is one piece of equipment that can do both types of drying for now.


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## equipmentzone

bornover said:


> That info helps very much Pablo. I have had problems with pretreat discoloring using a heat press on many garments already.
> 
> I don't have the volume yet to worry about needing to run screen prints and DTG prints through the same dryer at the same time. My goal is one piece of equipment that can do both types of drying for now.




As with everything in both screen printing and direct-to-garment printing, just make sure you do wash tests to make sure you are getting good drying results.

Harry
Equipment Zone

_


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## bornover

Yes, your preaching to the choir Harry. Do you mention that because you think drying DTG prints with a conveyor dryer will not produce the washfastness needed?


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## allamerican-aeoon

In order to achieve dtg garment drying dryer must have lots of air circulation. Air is more important than radiant heat. Gas dryer is more popular to Kornit. So hot air takes moisture away from ink fastest as they can. Just mini electric 24" 10' will never cut it (will do but slower than a heat press). In case that was the dryer you were thought about.
It is so strange that most dtg ink makes so much smoke when use dryer while heat press process has little. Anybody knows? Also wonder against health? Plastisol is 100% bad I think. Same as burning plastic. However we selling both


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## Pvasquez

allamerican said:


> In order to achieve dtg garment drying dryer must have lots of air circulation. Air is more important than radiant heat. Gas dryer is more popular to Kornit. So hot air takes moisture away from ink fastest as they can. Just mini electric 24" 10' will never cut it (will do but slower than a heat press). In case that was the dryer you were thought about.
> It is so strange that most dtg ink makes so much smoke when use dryer while heat press process has little. Anybody knows? Also wonder against health? Plastisol is 100% bad I think. Same as burning plastic. However we selling both


And the cloud of smoke when you first lift the heat press standing over it that hits your face is safe? I think your cabinet is really a good idea if it's enclosed and well vented same with a conveyor dryer if you have a vent at the end that takes all that smoke away minimizing personal exposure. 
Your right about the air and that's probably why I had to run the smaller dryer so slow. Faster speed more heat would not resolve the washing issues as when we lowered the temp and slowed it down. The Radicure sends air straight down to the belt achieving what a gas dryer will do. 
But answer this for me because I can't make sence of a test that I did. I flashed the print using a standard flasher set at 800 deg about 4 inches from the print for 15 seconds remove the flash for about 5-10 seconds flashed again as before and had no washout issue but I can't seem to duplicate this in the dryer. I do this when I don't want to turn on the dryer for a small run. Wierd has anyone tried something similar? I'm going to be doing some test with a quartz flasher soon but this really shouldn't work as there is zero air flow.


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## zoom_monster

bornover said:


> Yes, your preaching to the choir Harry. Do you mention that because you think drying DTG prints with a conveyor dryer will not produce the washfastness needed?


There is no reason why a conveyor will not work, It's just that all moisture has to be gone for the temp to go above 213 F. Ink cures when the polymers reach a target. Never heard what specific temp that is with DTG ink. 



allamerican said:


> ".....Plastisol is 100% bad I think. Same as burning plastic. However we selling both


Peter, you should probably ask your attorrney
In reality, Cured plastisol is quite benign, it's the stuff that gets down the drain, to the landfill and is not fully cured on shirts that is toxic.


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## allamerican-aeoon

It is fun part of forum. Dryer-different dryers-tests-health-toxic-beer. 
Screen printing really does carry environmental and health issues.
Emulsion, Emulsion remover, screen cleaner, spot remover(so bad), haze remover, screen cleaner, left over ink and all above wash out into drain. Waste so much waters! (bathtub full for each screen. I feel really bad for this. My screen maker (we used to provide screen making service)had big issues with his hand skin. I told him wear the rubber glove over and over but he never listened. Gargles are must. OSHA: As long as business documented and notice to workers then all free to keep doing it. Eye wash system near. Gargles. First aid. Filter system before drain (no inspections).  worry about many years later on earth.
Anyway back to our talk. 
Heat only by Flash cure and Quz will work as same as heat press does not have air. dtg ink has no temp' to reach. Ink's all water got to go by heat or by hot air. They are only way to get rid of waters. all water out then it cured. Not by temp like those plastics. But high temp maybe has good chance to change color of the ink. I am so full from grill time to take a nap. How about we add hot air to grill? cook faster? taste better? anyone want to test?
Cheers & beers!


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## allamerican-aeoon

I was keep thinking, should we wear the gas mask?


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## zoom_monster

allamerican said:


> It is fun part of forum. Dryer-different dryers-tests-health-toxic-beer.


 
And "gargles"? I know what you are saying Peter, but your Philly accent makes it hilarious.....*


Peter, Also if there is no "cure" temp for ink, how come if I dry to touch and do not use heatpress the washabilty is not optimal.

No dis-respect to ESL or PA residents intended


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## allamerican-aeoon

hahahha. I am over beered now. it helps get worse than what I can. Goggle!!!! not Google!!!
Cheers! Beers are on me always.


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## Deepriver

When we first got our Brother GT41 four years ago, we used a heat press. We then purchased an M&R Econo D 3 (3 panel) electric dryer with 2' belt. We found that if we turn the belt speed all the way down ithe garment will travel thru the 45" heat chamber in about two minutes with a temperature of 335 degrees (checked with donut temperature gauge - not the dryer setting which shows 700+). Then, after the order is finished, we run them thru the M&R Sprint gas dryer (used for regular screen printing) for one minute in the heat chamber at about 310 degrees. That has insured a good cure for us and we did a ton of wash tests comparing different settings and processes against DTG prints cured with the heat transfer press. Knowing what we know now, we would have opted to go with a small electric dryer with forced air which might work without having to run them back thru our gas dryer. From what we've learned, it is the time in the chamber more than the temperature.


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## bornover

Thanks Doug, very good info.


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## stevegamble

FatKat Printz said:


> SaharaSix DTG shirt drier « All American Manufacturing & Supply Co.
> 
> Sahara 6
> 
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t147982-8.html
> 
> I have seen this in action its very quiet and really doesn't take up that much room. Perfect for those with limited space


I am trying to find the exact specs on this.
Exact dimensions
Exact amperage needed.
and aprox. weight.

AND.. has anyone tried it yet ?

The only way I would print with Dupont ink is with a drier, not multiple presses.
Anyone ??


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## stevegamble

*The R-Jet 440F DTG tunnel Dryer. From Resolute, with Dupont Ink.*

Specially designed for curing waterbased inkjet textile inks and pre treatment. This unique tunnel dryer not only gives superior durability in the wash it boosts production for medium to large DTG companies. 

Curing a dark shirt printed with white ink every 45 seconds your heatpress bottle neck is gone. Seeing is believing this unique curing method for the direct to garment digital market. 

Air Circulation with powered extraction gives depth curing without surface burning.
Instant change from ink to pre treatment curing with no wait time.
Adjustable height for hoodies and thicker garments.
Detaches from legs for installation through standard door entries.
The best durability in the wash available for DTG printing.
The wait might? Be over!


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## 23spiderman

when printing with white ink, the "heatpress bottle neck" is NOT an issue. you have plenty of time to cure your shirts with one heat press when printing an average sized design with white ink. with 2 heat presses, you will stay ahead of the smaller prints.

not sure of the costs, but how does 2 heat presses compare to this dryer in terms of cost and power consumption? and, i've found that you need the heavy pressure to cure the pretreat to get a nice smooth print surface.


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## zoom_monster

Unless you plan on the capacity to do 50-100 shirts per hour and use that capacity day in and day out, It may not be worth the expense and upkeep of a belt dryer. Belt dryers that can efficiently cure water based ink tend to be more expensive to buy as well as to run. This is why most will be gas/electric as apposed to just electric. They have to be vented to the outside (more startup cost). Sean brings up a good point. Curing pretreat is fine with a convection dryer, but you still need to press for 20 seconds or so just before you print, to lay down the fabric.

For the lease payment and operation costs, it might be more cost effective to have multiple presses. For the cost of a Gas dryer, you could hire an employee and afford multiple presses which could be brought online as needed.

I would try to get the electrical/ gas specs for the dryer you like, then go to someone at your utility company to give you an estimate on the average monthly cost.


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## stevegamble

For me and possibly others?
Their is a few reasons to consider a curing method other than Heat Press.

1- I have a swing a way pneumatic DK20S 16x20 press.
You should have a auto clam I would think so you don't have to run for the press when it pops up 1 inch.
So,, I have to Buy something.

I find the DTG prints from Brother/Anajet/Neo with that flat rubber feel (heat trasfer feel) really kind of cheap feeling. vs our Kornit oven cured genuine/traditional screen print feel.
90% of our customer survey picks the Kornit for this reason.

2- In considering a Neoflex for the larger print area (can do sweat pant legs) or a 17x17 print on that XXXL tee shirt.. How do you cure that in a 16x20 press.?
Or do you all have 20x25 auto clam presses?

Also some say the hand is softer when oven cured (kornit sample here is the softest) and they say the colours are brighter? I do not have ability to compare that.

I am sure I could find other reasons, but all in all I keep coming up with reasons to consider buying a Oven type cure device vs a 16x20 DK w/ twin shuttle platen for loading up ahead over 2,300.00 or a 20x25 press if we buy a Neo for oversized prints??

then I would think a drawer type unit with venting to outside our print room or building(easy for us) We build our own building. Would heat up our room a Lot less than a big ol' heat press beside me for hours?

Any thoughts on this.?
I have been in the heat pressing business for couple years, BUT I have ZERO DTG experience and look for help here on this forum from you guys who have been printing and curing.

then the issue of Ink?
Some inks are better cured by specific methods ?? Dupont inks vs Brother or Kornit or new Mpower inks ?
They all cure at diffrerent time and temp with the heat press.
I wonder about durability with each ink type and curing method.
this would also influence how we commit to a brand of ink/printer type.

ps.
I have been washing all our samples from different printers and inks.
They ALL have been Very good with durability, washability.
few small cracks now on the Anajets, they rest are prefect.
warm washing, not inside out,..just wash and dry with my jeans etc..


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## 23spiderman

you have to know your customers and what they want and are willing to pay for. i have never EVER been asked to print larger than my 16x20 heat press size. most customers ask to print as big as i can, and when i tell them my print area, they are ok with that. the ability to print larger with the Neo is a nice advantage, but it takes much longer and uses more ink, so you must ensure that you are making a profit on those larger prints. it may not be preferred, but you can heat press the shirt in 2 steps if the design is bigger than your area.

for white ink printing, you need the heavy pressure from the heat press to give you that smooth printing surface. i've done this by hanging my shirts to dry, but i will say that the results are more consistent when i press the pretreat into the shirt. 

there is no point comparing the Kornit with the other brands if you aren't buying a Kornit. they use their own inks and pretreat, and there is no way to compare them. other than to say, the DuPont inks with Epson heads provide the most vibrant, detailed prints from what i've seen. and i don't get the rubbery feel on my shirts. one of my DTG shirts has a transfer "feel", but i used a solid white underbase when i could have used a white gradient underbase and had a much better print.

the auto clams are nice, but not necessary. your swing away will work just fine, but you'll need to pay attention so that you don't scorch a shirt. my auto clam doesn't pop up on it's own anymore, so i have to make sure i remember whether or not there's a shirt there. it's just part of the process.

i have used my conveyor oven before (while screen printing), but i always finish the shirt under the heat press. it costs much more to run my oven than it does my 2 heat presses, and my heat press cure times are much faster than the oven would be.


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## stevegamble

OK, Forget the Kornit.

But on other threads, Brother and others agree that IR cured prints are both more vibrant in colour and much softer hand.

Although if Vibrancy is really important it seems Dupont has that covered.
the softer hand without the rubbery feel of heavy white would be very nice.
ALL my black shirt samples have that.

I thought curing with a press was to be light pressure only,, barely touch the shirt?
or depnds on ink. Or depnds on white underbase.

I don't know about costing lot's more, as the digi cure box by Lawsons is $4k vs $2K for each (good)press.
and the digi box is 120V 1800 watts- 2000 watts.
and can have 240 volt option.
also claiming quick cures in this box, and the exterior remains cool to the touch keeping the room, environment cooler as the heat is exhausted elswhere.

Options are their, I was curious why the heatpress, but if it is for pressure and speed, I can see that.
Lot's to consider.


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## 23spiderman

i guess you could get by without it, but you already have one...

you can get a new GeoKnight 16x20 for around $1,100. i don't know anything about the Digi Dry box, but that's a different animal from a conveyor dryor. have you looked at All American's drying box? i know it holds multiple shirts.

i have crunchy, plastic feeling screen prints. all of my DTG prints are soft and not rubbery. it depends on how you apply the white underbase. a thick solid white underbase would be rubbery, but it's not necessary and not as durable and a proper gradient white underbase.


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## stevegamble

I am in Canada, Geo Knight a little more here, tax , delivery etc.. over $2k
I have a swing away now, and worry about over cure if i am up front with customer and press is finished? oops.. fire in the hole.

The only prints I have are samples from Ana, Neo, Brother, Kornit.
All are rubbery, excpet the Kornit is lighter and softer.
I though hard, but the price is just a bit high and the feedback for service and reliability is a bit lower than I hoped for.

The fact that their is such a learning curve to get a file to a shirt with tweek this or that, "dial in" your settings etc.. then the NeoripPro everyone talks about it getting a "good print" Even from a Newbie. Just loading the file, sizing it and Print.
..and a "Stunning print" if you tweek / play with it.
Others have to print mutilple tests and tweeking is a must it seems to get the colours and correct amt of white etc..

The 3 minute cure of Duponts, and the rubbery feel is what led me to desire to try a Box IR cure or ask if others are doing that with success.

Yes, I am waiting for feedback from End users on the AA Sahara 6 once it is released for sale.
I hear it will be soon.
3 phase, 15amp, 240 volt would work for us. power wise.

Just to see if it is superior print feel and appearance?


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## Resolute DTG

stevegamble said:


> *The R-Jet 440F DTG tunnel Dryer. From Resolute, with Dupont Ink.*
> 
> Specially designed for curing waterbased inkjet textile inks and pre treatment. This unique tunnel dryer not only gives superior durability in the wash it boosts production for medium to large DTG companies.
> 
> Curing a dark shirt printed with white ink every 45 seconds your heatpress bottle neck is gone. Seeing is believing this unique curing method for the direct to garment digital market.
> 
> Air Circulation with powered extraction gives depth curing without surface burning.
> Instant change from ink to pre treatment curing with no wait time.
> Adjustable height for hoodies and thicker garments.
> Detaches from legs for installation through standard door entries.
> The best durability in the wash available for DTG printing.
> The wait might? Be over!


We don't mention DuPont ink on our website !!!, but it will cure any waterbased digital textile ink. It is designed to cope with upwards of two printers, most of our customers have 4 so heatpress is not an option.

Yes the wait is over


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## stevegamble

allamerican said:


> Another good point.
> Heat press: require many people to keep up fast production.
> Dryer: Someone has to stay at the end of dryer check damage and receive instead of leave box at the end and wait for fill up. Often get jammed.
> Cabinet: As you load and unload you can check every time.
> Utility cost:
> I don't know about other state. PA 1kwh commercial 110v is 7 cents.
> Heat press is 1500 watts so it means 7x1.5= 10.5 cents per hour.
> If you use 220V 1ph wattage will go down 1/2 it will become 750watts. If you use 3ph it will even go lower. Utility company has lower rate on 220V and more on 3ph.
> 2000 watts (idle)- 3000 watts(peak) is typical cabinet draw dryer required. Each one should calculate with their local rate. I am sure on less wasting heat than dryer and many heat presses will make utility cost lower than any out there. Think about 6 heat press going in your room and belt dryer running same. HOT! you will never find a worker unless winter time when business is slow.
> Also smoke from belt dryer is killer! heat press has some but not bad as Belt dryer. *Cabinet 99% go out with vent (4").*
> Unfortunately this will not fit to one DTG owners.


That is a GREAT Benefit.
Not to mention people who test.. see softer prints, and brighter prints, and more traditional look feel.

I am Hoping to see these out in real world very soon.


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## Pvasquez

It's been a while since I posted but here is where I'm at with a conveyor dryer I since upgraded to a M&R Mini Sprint from electric Radicure D it's much faster cures are great at 340 9 ft per minute on white and twice on darks. The biggest benefit my electric bill dropped about 400$ month and my gas has averaged 50$ since may. What a difference this had made. If you can swing it and you have the work upgrade.


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## FatKat Printz

How are the washes after curing in the new dryer? Looking to upgrade but have always been told that water based inks need infrared and forced air to cure correctly.


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## Resolute DTG

FatKat Printz said:


> How are the washes after curing in the new dryer? Looking to upgrade but have always been told that water based inks need infrared and forced air to cure correctly.


You don't need infrared but you do need forced air, most dryers configured for dtg textile ink give much better durability in the wash.


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## Pvasquez

FatKat Printz said:


> How are the washes after curing in the new dryer? Looking to upgrade but have always been told that water based inks need infrared and forced air to cure correctly.


I have great results actually more consistent, before I would have a few that would come back because of the white ink pealing not sure if it was a dryer issue or treatment the only problem I saw was on darks with the new dryer was not to let it get too hot the ink would be crispy and crack but on the test that I ran when dialing it in ( both wash and feel ) where I have it set has been the best I know I can probably change the setting to be able to run darks once but this has given me the best results with running them twice and they don't have to be back to back I run them once, when the job is finished I just send them thru one more time. White shirts where never an issue with electric both have been pretty much the same but the only thing I have changed is I now pre-treat white shirts with the new white and light garment pretreat can yield a much brighter print it's night and day amazing how good it looks almost as bright as screen print and when you wash it you don't have fibrillation as you normally would colors stay bright as if it was just printed. I think the gas dryer helped this too but never pre-treated white shirts before I got the dryer.


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## FatKat Printz

I've been told whites look much better being cured by a dryer rather than heat press. Pretreating lights does greatly improve how they look so I'm sure between the two they look great. For darks I've been told run them through the dryer then heat press later for 30 secs just to get the hand softer.


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## Pvasquez

FatKat Printz said:


> I've been told whites look much better being cured by a dryer rather than heat press. Pretreating lights does greatly improve how they look so I'm sure between the two they look great. For darks I've been told run them through the dryer then heat press later for 30 secs just to get the hand softer.


Yeah the press gives it a softer hand but I generally won't do it no complaints thus far. Drying the white shirts in a dryer prevents any possible smudge when curing I'm sure you developed a way to prevent it that drove me up the wall before the dryer even came in to play.


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## tgutz1

What's the cost of the Sahara 6?


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