# Sign Vinyl / Expert 24 help



## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

(please see video below..when i get to the letter Y you will see what im speaking about...) I have been cutting T SHIRT vinyl for a while now with no problems BUT- 
im cutting sign / sticker vinyl...tried 2 different brands. also tried multiple settings for : Blade, offsets, speed, and pressure. Im using an expert 24 with greatcut software and a fairly new blade. However no matter what design/ fonts/ or size of object i always have trouble weeding. Its like parts of the design are still connected to the scrap material. Its hard to describe and i havent found any answers on the forum yet. Any help is appreciated.


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## KB Graphics (Feb 26, 2007)

Check your cutting strip it may need to be replaced


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## ocmedia (Mar 26, 2012)

I use a Roland CX-500 and I have these problems sometimes as well.

Usually it is resolved for us with a technique... different for everyone. We simply cut guidelines with an exacto around the letter and peel out the rest, with a little more focus on the problem letter.

I have also found it is sometimes the "points" in the vector art. simplifying it to less points or defining the corner better helps on some letters.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

thnx ill try that. How long do they typically last?


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

@ocmedia. Thnx for the reply. However im having this problem with everything i print. sometimes a little better then others but went threw about 10 yrds today just trying different settings and stuff...and the letters/ designs still grab on.


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## KB Graphics (Feb 26, 2007)

It depend on how much vinyl you cut. I change mine every 6 months. Also a drop of oil in the blade holder helps


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

ok. ill add im using inkscape..dont know if this could be the issue. or if others have come across problems with it..EVERYTHING still works great for t shirt vinyl..its just this sign vinyl.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

also im using the stock blade (not sure of the size i think 45) and the vinyl is 3 mil. Is this ok to use?


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

I have an Expert 24...I cut heat press vinyl (Spectra Eco Film or Siser Easy Weed) and sign vinyl (Oracal 651, 751 or 631) using the same settings....
Pressure - 35
Speed - 50
And they work just fine......

Make sure you blade is so far inside the holder you can hardly see it.....If you run it across a scrap of sign vinyl and it cuts or is even visible on the backer it is too far out.....If your cut goes too deep in the vinyl it pushes the adhesive into the cut in the backer and makes it hard to weed.....


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## Fenrir (Mar 13, 2012)

I don't know about your specific setup, but many sign cutters have an "overcut" setting, where it will continue to cut the design a few mm or more ahead of the starting point to make sure it's cut out all the way. Another issue could be too much pressure. You want the blade to barely scratch the backing. If you start cutting into the backing it can squeeze the adhesive into the groove, thus making it harder to weed and harder to remove the transfer tape. Also, some people think that particular brands of vinyl are harder or easier to weed.

Instead of an x-acto knife afterward, it is easier to place rectangle cut-outs around areas you have trouble weeding, thus you can work on a little bit at a time instead of the whole design at once.

If all else fails you can reverse-weed after applying transfer tape, lift up and weed, then put back down onto the backing.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

@ Royster are you familiar with the setting that fenrir is speaking of? the overcut? if so where can i find it on our expert 24's?

I will try those settings royster however they seem far off from what has been working best for me... 
With t shirt vinyl im at pressure 60 / speed 40...
with sticker vinyl what has been working best is pressure 80 / speed 15


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Update- cleaned blade / changed strip. Still same problem -Tried settings listed above and it wouldnt cut through vinyl ( surface cuts)


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## Skidream37 (Mar 11, 2012)

I have had similar problems due to:

Size of job larger than material and the travel path will error out, leaving uncut edges
Insufficient RAM and missing data in buffer when spooled.
Missing or incorrect vector points.
 
Check the job size and material size on the plotter. Restart the computer and plotter to dump any memory issues. View the outlines and bits to make sure the cut path is correct. 

The staff at Sign Warehouse are pretty helpful.

PS, my plotter is 8 years old and has never seen a drop of oil near it. Dust, Oil and Adhesive don’t mix.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

both of the styles of vinyl i got were off ebay. this may be the problem but i did get 6 rolls..i doubt they all went bad. 1 brand is scotchprint / and the other just says American Mfg. calendered vinyl..


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Skidream37 said:


> I have had similar problems due to:
> 
> Size of job larger than material and the travel path will error out, leaving uncut edges
> Insufficient RAM and missing data in buffer when spooled.
> ...


thanks. i have shutdown both and rebooted. sizes on cutter match computer.


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

I guess I have never used over cut because I did not know it existed....And if it does in Great Cut, I have not found it yet...


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

i was looking also..cant find it.


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

Apparently it is not on the Expert 24.....It is on their higher up models like a Puma and Jaguar....


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

royster13 said:


> Apparently it is not on the Expert 24.....It is on their higher up models like a Puma and Jaguar....


any other suggestions?


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## coolbeansgifts (May 24, 2010)

I really have had good luck with Cleancut blades. These blades cost a little more,but a worth every penny.Theses blade seem a little tougher,and last longer, than the stock blades that came with my Expert 24.
I use Oracal 651 outdoor Vinyl and 631 wall vinyl and I could really tell the difference weeding Oracal, compared to the cheaper vinyl ,inwhich I bought to start with.

Good Luck


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## Joto Paper (Feb 12, 2007)

Yup Overcut function not in the expert. In the pPuma, the overcut option is actually on the machine itself, not in the software GreatCuts.


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## Skidream37 (Mar 11, 2012)

Just a thought, but have you eliminated hardware vers. software? Try a different layout orientation or mirror image to see if the problem follows the job or to see if it is the plotter and or material. Reduce the size and orientation until you figure it out to save on wasted material. Or better yet, load some roll paper and put in a pen to see. Sounds like the cutter is lifting on that one cut point if all the other cuts are working. I don't think it is the material.

As silly as it seems. I had a problem with Corel and Vector files when doing some Sublimation. One number would not print. It showed up on the print view but wouldn't send it to the printer. I had to close the file, reopen it and retype the number and it went to the printer. I know, two different worlds but stranger things have happened.

Try the hardware elimination.


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

Expert pro has the overcut function also


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Skidream37 said:


> Just a thought, but have you eliminated hardware vers. software? Try a different layout orientation or mirror image to see if the problem follows the job or to see if it is the plotter and or material. Reduce the size and orientation until you figure it out to save on wasted material. Or better yet, load some roll paper and put in a pen to see. Sounds like the cutter is lifting on that one cut point if all the other cuts are working. I don't think it is the material.
> 
> As silly as it seems. I had a problem with Corel and Vector files when doing some Sublimation. One number would not print. It showed up on the print view but wouldn't send it to the printer. I had to close the file, reopen it and retype the number and it went to the printer. I know, two different worlds but stranger things have happened.
> 
> Try the hardware elimination.


I will try to mirror the image tomorrow and see what it does... good sugestion


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

plan b said:


> Expert pro has the overcut function also


do you think that this is the problem? the fact that it doesnt have the overcut feature


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

nope,,, compensate by offset,, only really helps cutting heavy material


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## Fenrir (Mar 13, 2012)

I would definitely try changing your vinyl. If you have a Hobby Lobby in your area you _might_ be able to find some Oracal 651 in the scrapbooking section with the Cricut and other mini craft cutter supplies. It will not be the Cricut brand, Hobby Lobby has other brands of vinyl sheets in the same area. The Cricut brand is Oracal 631 (removable) which you might also try using, but it's thicker and feels different than normal sign vinyl. Bring a 40% coupon off their website since craft vinyl has a hilariously large markup. You can tell which one is Oracal because it'll still have the grid and ORACAL 651 INTERMEDIATE CAL printed on it. That way you can test it by buying a sheet or two and then you can go buy rolls if that turns out to be the problem. In any case, I wouldn't use that vinyl you have on anything good (like a car!), only on temporary outdoor signs, _maybe_ on a permanent indoor sign but don't be surprised if it shrinks, bunches up, peels, or flat out falls off.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

alright guys i tried mirror too...still same problem.. ill keep trying stuff. any more idea please send them


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## Blue92 (Oct 8, 2010)

Is the blade scoring the backing at all? 

I've found that if depth and pressure are set correctly you'll be able to see an indent in the backing but it should not be actually cutting into the backing.


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## Skidream37 (Mar 11, 2012)

It has to be something in the design. It's not the material or the cutter because it is one area on the design and it follows one path regardless of travel direction and placement. Did you look at the path in wireframes? It acts like it is missing points in the path that tells the cuter there is a path to follow. This stuff is based on some pretty simple paths that the cutter follows. I use VE LXi Expert so I'm not familiar with Expert 24. But a path is a path in any language? I sure would like to take a look at the wireframe view on the points and path. It's almost starting to become personal.... Add a path or try to write a new path to close the fill area?


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Skidream37 said:


> It has to be something in the design. It's not the material or the cutter because it is one area on the design and it follows one path regardless of travel direction and placement. Did you look at the path in wireframes? It acts like it is missing points in the path that tells the cuter there is a path to follow. This stuff is based on some pretty simple paths that the cutter follows. I use VE LXi Expert so I'm not familiar with Expert 24. But a path is a path in any language? I sure would like to take a look at the wireframe view on the points and path. It's almost starting to become personal.... Add a path or try to write a new path to close the fill area?


This was my first concern as well. However when i cut the same design on t shirt vinyl it cuts the full letter out.


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## Skidream37 (Mar 11, 2012)

OK, The cutter doesn't know the difference between Vinyl or Heat materials. And the missing path only is on mirror image on Heat material, reguardless of placement or size on the cutter and material. If it was the cutter and or blade, the problem would follow the position not the letter. Therefore, it leads back to the path? Stumped... While it may be a long shot, but are all the other paths cut at even depth? What does the depth look like in the problem area? Just scratched or fully lifted off the path? Send an email over to Sign Warehouse and see if they can help. And put the response up on the post. I would like to know.


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## Fenrir (Mar 13, 2012)

I still suggest giving up on that junk vinyl it came with and getting something decent. Especially since you just said that it works fine on your fabric vinyl. I know I sound like an Oracal salesman when I keep recommending it but I've found both from experience and from this and other forums, that 651 is pretty much the _only_ calendered vinyl that isn't junk. 751/851/951 are better for permanent fleet graphics on vehicles and work on irregular survaces/rivets.

What I believe happens on cheap vinyl is that the adhesive is so gooey and liquid that after you cut, it seeps back into the cut line and basically glues the vinyl back together, so when you try to weed you lift up everything instead. This is not, however, just a trait of cheap vinyl, I have seen people complain about more expensive, cast vinyl being hard to weed. I have also seen people say they feel the Oracal is _harder_ to weed than whatever brand they were using. But those names you listed that came with the cutter definitely sound "very generic".


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## coolbeansgifts (May 24, 2010)

You said you have been doing tshirt vinyl for a while and you just started trying to do the sign vinyl. I started off weeding the sign vinyl and then later did the tshirt vinyl. I found the tshirt vinyl a lot easier to weed,so don't expect it to be as easy as tshirt vinyl to weed. 

Also I know you said you tried different pressure settings,but I do set the pressure up when going to sign vinyl.I am using 65-70 on tshirt vinyl and anywhere from 90 to 100 in sign vinyl,however my blade has been in awhile. 

Like I said earlier I bought cheap vinyl to start and the went to Oracal 651 and this old county boy aint going back to cheap vinyl.Besides for quality mid grade vinyl its not that exspensive.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Skidream37 said:


> OK, The cutter doesn't know the difference between Vinyl or Heat materials. And the missing path only is on mirror image on Heat material, reguardless of placement or size on the cutter and material. If it was the cutter and or blade, the problem would follow the position not the letter. Therefore, it leads back to the path? Stumped... While it may be a long shot, but are all the other paths cut at even depth? What does the depth look like in the problem area? Just scratched or fully lifted off the path? Send an email over to Sign Warehouse and see if they can help. And put the response up on the post. I would like to know.


 thanks everyone for taking time to respond. Over the next few days i will be trying a few things.
1. New blade (45) and purchasing a 60
2. checking whats going on at the problem points to report back to skidream
3. possibly trying to get my hands on some different sticker vinyl. (maybe see what the local crafts store carries)
once again thank you all for your help and i will report back.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Stuffy said:


> With t shirt vinyl im at pressure 60 / speed 40...
> with sticker vinyl what has been working best is pressure 80 / speed 15


Your sticker vinyl pressure is way to high you should be at 20-25 and speed should stay the same.

Your blade should be at .50 or 0 

Go to sort with simulation in great cut press play and watch the simulation of your cut. If you look at the area that's causing problems you will know in the simulation it will start to jerk if you can't tell slow it down

Also look for nodes in your artwork select outline view in great cut and zoom in to your design it should have clean crisp lines look directly at the problem area again for problems

Do a test cut always


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Another thing when switching back and forth between different vinyl look at your blade holder tip for loose pieces of vinyl getting stuck.

Press the button to extend the blade and remove debris


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

dazzabling said:


> Your sticker vinyl pressure is way to high you should be at 20-25 and speed should stay the same.
> 
> Your blade should be at .50 or 0
> 
> ...


At those settings i get surface cuts. How do i set te blade to those settings? I mean i know how to adjust the blade. But it can be turned fully around so how do you know exactly where to place. Forgive me i know its a stupid question.


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

The blade should be just barely extending from the bottom of the holder.....I have mine set so short that if I run it across a piece of vinyl it does not leave a mark of any sort on the backer.....


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

royster13 said:


> The blade should be just barely extending from the bottom of the holder.....I have mine set so short that if I run it across a piece of vinyl it does not leave a mark of any sort on the backer.....


I understand. But i imagine the further the blade is in the holder. Then you would need more pressure to cut. So if my pressure is to high. Wouldnt my blade need to come out/ down more?


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

The extent to which the blade is extended has little or no bearing on the pressure.....The carriage assembly compensates for a short blade by coming down farther.....And at the same time it senses the pressure and limits it at the setting selected.....


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## Skidream37 (Mar 11, 2012)

I concur, 60 seems rather high. My plotter has a slide adjustment and I’m set to 25%. I also agree with the missing nodes or path. Over pressure would cut into the backing on sign vinyl and tend to lift corners and detailed cuts. Nor would it only be on one particular path, but scattered on the entire project. I have trouble accepting the material theory because it is only on one path. Heat transfer is much easier to cut and weed so I still stick to a missing path if the blade is lifting on a particular path. When I look at the picture, everything looks good except the one path. I don’t see a problem with material, blade or plotter. Oracal is the most widely used product and I use it. I tend to stick with Hot Mark or First Mark for transfers. But I’m no expert. Just know what works for me.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

I have an Expert 24 and it cuts fine.

If it's cutting t-shirt vinyl fine, then it isn't the file. Which leaves the vinyl, pressure, offset, speed and cutting strip. The offset is based on the blade angle, a 45 degree blade should be at .25. I use the same speed and pressure on both Duracal, Oracal, and Spectra Eco: pressure 66, speed 35 and get no scoring of the backing. I could probably turn the speed up but I just leave it. My blade just barely protrudes, you can just feel it across your fingerprint ridges.

My guess is the vinyl is crap. Get some decent vinyl and give it a try.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Stuffy said:


> At those settings i get surface cuts. How do i set the blade to those settings? I mean i know how to adjust the blade. But it can be turned fully around so how do you know exactly where to place. Forgive me i know its a stupid question.


Do you have this blade holder?? It should have numbers on it. 

Simply turn the blade holder to 0 (test cut) half (test cut)

Use your downforce to adjust to the vinyl. 

Does the sticker vinyl have a paper backing??


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

dazzabling said:


> Do you have this blade holder?? It should have numbers on it.
> 
> Simply turn the blade holder to 0 (test cut) half (test cut)
> 
> ...


that is the correct blade holder/ and the sticker vinyl does have a backing. ive adjusted pressure so that it barely leaves a mark in the backing..i can set it at 0...problem is it spends fully around- even until the dot is hidden. (so you cannot line it up with the number settings) . dont know if that makes since or not. but waiting on new vinyl and new blades still.


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

Do not worry about the numbers on the blade holder......Not even sure why they are there.....The only thing that matters is how "little" your blade is extended......


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

royster13 said:


> Do not worry about the numbers on the blade holder......Not even sure why they are there.....The only thing that matters is how "little" your blade is extended......


I agree but its start point


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Problem Solved. Ok this was a little crazy so im posting in case others have issues with the expert 24. So i ordered new vinyl(oracel that was reccomended) an i got new blades, and tried different software. None of that worked. So i started tinkering with the expert 24. This is what i found. The blade holder is a little loose inside the housing ( not sure of correct terminology). So i took some tape and wrapped it around the blade holder. Then placed it back in the housing. Went back to original blade and original vinyl. Everythings working great! Thanks for all who tried helping. Hope this helps someone else. Also if someone else has an expert 24 please let me know if there is some type of spacer, or rubber fitting/ gasket that is typically there that i maybe lost.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Stuffy said:


> Problem Solved. Ok this was a little crazy so im posting in case others have issues with the expert 24. So i ordered new vinyl(oracel that was reccomended) an i got new blades, and tried different software. None of that worked. So i started tinkering with the expert 24. This is what i found. The blade holder is a little loose inside the housing ( not sure of correct terminology). So i took some tape and wrapped it around the blade holder. Then placed it back in the housing. Went back to original blade and original vinyl. Everythings working great! Thanks for all who tried helping. Hope this helps someone else. Also if someone else has an expert 24 please let me know if there is some type of spacer, or rubber fitting/ gasket that is typically there that i maybe lost.


Great to hear!!!! How long have you had the cutter? the blade holder may be under warranty but not 100% sure. Otherwise, a new one is around $100.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

dazzabling said:


> Great to hear!!!! How long have you had the cutter? the blade holder may be under warranty but not 100% sure. Otherwise, a new one is around $100.


Thanks didnt even think of that. Less then 8 months old. And i believe they have 2yr warranty.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

If you joined gcc club you get an additional 3 months.


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## Blue92 (Oct 8, 2010)

Stuffy said:


> ..........The blade holder is a little loose inside the housing ( not sure of correct terminology).........


If the Expert 24 cutting head is like the Expert 24 LX then the blade holder should not be loose. 

Any chance the lip or guide ring on the blade holder is sitting on the blade holder latch and not down in the groove inside the latch where it should be?


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## jasonsmith (Mar 30, 2011)

royster13 said:


> I have an Expert 24...I cut heat press vinyl (Spectra Eco Film or Siser Easy Weed) and sign vinyl (Oracal 651, 751 or 631) using the same settings....
> Pressure - 35
> Speed - 50
> And they work just fine......
> ...


I didn't know you weren't supposed to see visible lines in the backing from the blade. I just thought you didn't want it cutting through the backing.

I usually have the pressure at 60. But will have to try 35 and see what that does. 

I've got my blade less than half a credit card thickness.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

jasonsmith said:


> I didn't know you weren't supposed to see visible lines in the backing from the blade. I just thought you didn't want it cutting through the backing.
> 
> I usually have the pressure at 60. But will have to try 35 and see what that does.
> 
> I've got my blade less than half a credit card thickness.


for me personally jason i set my blade less then credit card as well. however anything below 60 wont do the job.


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## Stuffy (Aug 2, 2011)

Blue92 said:


> If the Expert 24 cutting head is like the Expert 24 LX then the blade holder should not be loose.
> 
> Any chance the lip or guide ring on the blade holder is sitting on the blade holder latch and not down in the groove inside the latch where it should be?


sorry im not familiar with all the parts. all i can tell you is that i slip the blade holder into the housing using the groove that is provided. i dont see any spacers/ or washers or o rings that should make it a tighter fit. But mine was definitely loose.


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## jasonsmith (Mar 30, 2011)

coolbeansgifts said:


> I really have had good luck with Cleancut blades. These blades cost a little more,but a worth every penny.Theses blade seem a little tougher,and last longer, than the stock blades that came with my Expert 24.
> I use Oracal 651 outdoor Vinyl and 631 wall vinyl and I could really tell the difference weeding Oracal, compared to the cheaper vinyl ,inwhich I bought to start with.
> 
> Good Luck


How well does that 651 (calendered) hold up outside? I was thinking of going with 751 (cast) for window decals.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Stuffy said:


> Thanks didnt even think of that. Less then 8 months old. And i believe they have 2yr warranty.


Expert has one year warranty.. but again join GCC Club for additional 3 months. 

GCC CLUB - Laser Engraving, Cutting, Marking, Vinyl Cutter and Inkjet Printer


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

jasonsmith said:


> I didn't know you weren't supposed to see visible lines in the backing from the blade. I just thought you didn't want it cutting through the backing.
> 
> I usually have the pressure at 60. But will have to try 35 and see what that does.
> 
> I've got my blade less than half a credit card thickness.


If you see any kind of mark in the backer, that means the blade is pushing adhesive into the cut....A little adhesive is not much of a problem but there is no need for it....But if the mark is too deep it make vinyl harder to remover from backer....


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## Blue92 (Oct 8, 2010)

jasonsmith said:


> I didn't know you weren't supposed to see visible lines in the backing from the blade. I just thought you didn't want it cutting through the backing.


I like to see just a slight impression on the backing from the blade. Most sign vinyls I cut using 35 - 45 for the down force with an Expert 24 LX.

I set the blade so it is barely out of the housing. Less than the 1/2 credit card normally referred to.


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## Jbanuelos85 (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey Everyone,

I'm starting to have the same issue, Im using a new 45 degree roland blade, sticking out half the thickness of a credit card at about 50 downforce on the vlcd monitor. Im trying to cut lettering about 1/4 of an inch thick and when i go to weed the text, half or more of it is still stuck to the excess vinyl. I had dazzabling help me all day today and we could not figure out the issue.


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

Blue92 said:


> I like to see just a slight impression on the backing from the blade. Most sign vinyls I cut using 35 - 45 for the down force with an Expert 24 LX.
> 
> I set the blade so it is barely out of the housing. Less than the 1/2 credit card normally referred to.


I don't know who came up with the half of credit card distance thing but if you want to do it correctly then you put your blade next to the edge of the material you are cutting and adjust it until it just kisses the backing. Its imperative that the blade is seated all the way in the holder.

Put the blade back in and make sure it is in the carriage assembly right, I have had numerous people have it on top of the assembly and not installed where it should be.. post a pic up and we can see if it is correct.

The machine has to be level even if its on a stand,, also make sure the cut strip has no bad marks or grooves in it,, if it does replace it,, and last make sure the material is free to feed and not pulling against the roll. These are the most common things to look for.


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## Jbanuelos85 (Jan 1, 2012)

I went ahead and verified that the cutter is level and also that the bladeholder is properly installed. The cutting strip was replaced a few weeks ago and currently has no damage that i can see.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

plan b said:


> I don't know who came up with the half of credit card distance thing


I believe it came from the Stahls folks but I found it to be too deep on my Expert. I adjusted the blade until I can just feel with the ridges on my fingers and it was perfect.


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## Blue92 (Oct 8, 2010)

wormil said:


> I believe it came from the Stahls folks but I found it to be too deep on my Expert. I adjusted the blade until I can just feel with the ridges on my fingers and it was perfect.


I believe you are correct as to the source. 

As I said above I have the blade set less than the 1/2 credit card. I'd say maybe 1/64" or less sticking out.

I check it by doing the drag test on sign vinyl when removing and re-installing or changing the blade.


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## Jbanuelos85 (Jan 1, 2012)

Ok, i got my cutter working better now, i went ahead and took your advice and but the blade holder next to the material and just measured to where it was touching the backing material. I also adjusted the pressure to find what would work best for cutting my design. 

In order to weed the small letters i applied the adhesive layer and reversed weeded the small letters as the adhesive layer has a stronger backing.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

good to hear.. glad you got it working


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## Jbanuelos85 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thank you dazzabling! As always you are awesome and went above and beyond! I plan to purchase a gcc cutter stand very soon and will reach out to you when im ready!


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Jbanuelos85 said:


> Thank you dazzabling! As always you are awesome and went above and beyond! I plan to purchase a gcc cutter stand very soon and will reach out to you when im ready!


You are very welcome!


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## ranger648 (Apr 3, 2012)

KB Graphics said:


> It depend on how much vinyl you cut. I change mine every 6 months. Also a drop of oil in the blade holder helps


I use inkscape also that shouldnt be the issue but one time I did have to go into the knife cutting properties of the cutter and change the setting there. Dont know if this helps but it has worked for me for over a year and only had to change the blade once. also make sure you are using a 45degree blade and not a 60 that helps also. if this does not help let me know and will pm you my phone number and see if I can help


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## Fenrir (Mar 13, 2012)

What brand of vinyl are you using? Some are harder to weed than others. But small letters tend to be annoying no matter how good your settings and supplies are. Create 'weed boxes' around difficult areas so you can weed them first, use a blunted toothpick (poke your desk with it a few times) or other soft item (tablet stylus?) to hold the letters down while weeding.


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## jasonsmith (Mar 30, 2011)

wormil said:


> I believe it came from the Stahls folks but I found it to be too deep on my Expert. I adjusted the blade until I can just feel with the ridges on my fingers and it was perfect.


What "number" is it at on your blade holder?


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## jasonsmith (Mar 30, 2011)

royster13 said:


> If you see any kind of mark in the backer, that means the blade is pushing adhesive into the cut....A little adhesive is not much of a problem but there is no need for it....But if the mark is too deep it make vinyl harder to remover from backer....


The problem I had is the Expert doesn't have an overcut feature. So, when weeding. The small letters at times like to pull up when weeding. And they pull up at the point where the blade starts/stops. So, I think the vinyl just doesn't get cut 100% at times which makes it a pain to weed.

I asked GCC to include the overcut feature into the VLCD.

What I've done that helps some is I adjust the starting node say to the left for all the objects. Then I weed from right to left and that helps some. As if I was to weed from left to right, alot of the letters would try to lift up. So you want to start weeding at the opposite side of the starting node.


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