# lining up sheets



## bshop84 (Aug 2, 2012)

Ok I'm having serious issues trying to line up the artwork after printing the first color. Every time I try to re-align the sheet it never lines up correctly. I'm just curious, what do most of you use as indicators to line up the sheets after going through the conveyor when printing the next color?


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## larry (Mar 6, 2007)

bshop84 said:


> Ok I'm having serious issues trying to line up the artwork after printing the first color. Every time I try to re-align the sheet it never lines up correctly. I'm just curious, what do most of you use as indicators to line up the sheets after going through the conveyor when printing the next color?


Bishop 84,
There are plastic tabs to use. You place them in 3 corners. Try to burn your screens in the same place each time. You may call me by phone if you need more help 1-727-573-5997

[email protected]


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## bshop84 (Aug 2, 2012)

Is there a certain guideline for cooldown time between prints? I already have the transfer sheets pre-shrunk, but they still bend/curl a little bit straight out of the dryer.


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

When we printed transfers, we printed on a clear acrylic vacuum platen. Taped the positive down and had a light below so we could better see placement on successive colors.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Chuck, so you used a light box?


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

In effect, yes although they were not integrated. We hung a small worklight beneath the platen, which was a clear acrylic vacuum platen, fitted for our manual printer.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

I don't understand why Bshop84 has to register transfers? 

Is he or she buying each color on separate sheets instead of buying them complete on one sheet?


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

He's printing his own multi-color transfers.


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## brandedclothing (Feb 17, 2010)

I'm a little confused too. Why not print all of the colors before taking them off the platen? Is this for plastisol transfers?


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

Transfer paper is non-absorbent. If you print wet-wet-on with plastisol ink on transfer paper, the inks will smudge. Each color needs to be printed and partially cured so that each succeeding color can be printed cleanly. the continual heat can cause paper shrinkage and mis-registration. Wet-on-wet garment printing works because the garments are absorbent.
If you are still not convinced, try printing a piece of metal, corogated plastic, glass, wax paper...some similar slick surface substrate.


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## brandedclothing (Feb 17, 2010)

I know you can't print wet on wet. But we print plastisol transfers all the time and just flash in between each color. I usually just flash the paper first to shrink it then print away. In fact we're printing some transfers at the moment in this method.


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## bshop84 (Aug 2, 2012)

brandedclothing said:


> I know you can't print wet on wet. But we print plastisol transfers all the time and just flash in between each color. I usually just flash the paper first to shrink it then print away. In fact we're printing some transfers at the moment in this method.



I'm just starting out, so I only have a 1-station, 4-color press. I use my old 1-station, 1-color press platen to flash/cure with a flash dryer and temp gun. Unfortunately I wouldn't have enough cooldown time between prints and my platen would get way too hot. Also, because it's only a 4-color, I can print the first 4 colors on all the transfer sheets, then change the screens and print another 2-4 colors (or more) by re-aligning the sheets.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Sounds like a lot of work. I'd just print 4 colors or less, and outsource the rest until you buy a bigger press.

You mean, 4 color, 1 station right?


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

Bshop, 2 things, first you need a system so sheets go on exactly the same each time. I've always used three tabs as was mentioned earlier. Second you need registration marks and learn how to register a multicolor job. Check the screenprint forum for tons of posts on how.

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