# Color Laser Printer vs Inkjet for printing heat transfers?



## nsane

Hello everyone.

As i see everybody use inkjet printer, and thats interesting, because here (Hungary) the laser printers are more popupar, could you help me to find out why?

In the forums the most recomended printer is Epson 1280 that is 299$ MSRP, and average ink cost is 0.50$/print.

In my country the most recommended printer is Ricoh - Aficio SP C410DN that is 1560$ MSRP, and ink cost is flat rate: 0.17$/colored A4 print, 0.02$/black A4 print. (you dont have to buy ink at all, ricoh guys are coming, and change the cartridges, do maintainance, etc for free - the service is included in the print price)

And the most popular heat transfer paper is FOREVER (http://www.forever-ots.com/cgi-bin/index.pl?lang=1)
Papers price:
FOREVER 5 STAR (for laser) = 0.72$/A4 sheet
FOREVER Ink Jet (for inkjet) = 2.1$/A4 sheet

As you see the printer itself is far more expensive than the inkjet one, but than every additional cost (paper/ink) is cheaper. About quality? I have no idea which is better, i had no chance to compare laser/inkjet print results yet. Did you?


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## T-BOT

Hi, 
i can tell you that digital transfer tech has bloomed in the last 10 years. We still have an old KODAK color Lazer copy machine (xerox with the Kodak name) in the back, this one cost us about $ 50k. and we used PHOTO-TRans 11X17 paper by the truck load back then.....it still works too. 

Acctually, KODAK was giving away a heat press with any purchase or lease of their Lazer color copy machines at the time. This is one of the reasons why all the photo copy places that leased color lazer equip. started making custom t-shirts too..... this hurt most sectors of imprint industry and some even had to close up shop since you could go to KINKOS to make your shirts, for example. 

As for jet printers, i think there are a lot of members here that use them... some one will step into this thread soon and give you more info i'm sure.


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## printchic

Hi Nane,

I've been doing heat transfers since 1996 and have tested all types of Laser Transfer paper. A friend i met on the net at the same time was testing inkjet transfers. We both did extensive wash tests, etc. and eventually it was determined that the "inkjet" transfers held up better "after washing".

Now she was using special archival inks not OEM inks.

Fast forward to now and people are starting to use Laser printers also for transfers as some have found transfer paper that does a good job after washing.

You will have to try different transfer papers to see what works best for you. As you said the Ricoh printers have always been recommended so you have the right equipment you just need to find a suitable transfer paper that works well. Meaning after you wash it how does it hold up. Now the manufacturer gives washing directions but most t-shirt companies say the customer will not follow those directions so they wash it in "extreme" conditions "hot water" and "hot dryer" to see how the design hold up. It's really up to you to determine what your "wash requirements" will be.


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## imageman

Personally, i dont like laser transfers,the earlier ones i tried few years back were not very impressive after washing.The technology may have improved since then.


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## nsane

Resoltuion:
The ricoh laser printers resolution: 1200x1200dpi, while Epson is 5760x720dpi (WTF?!?)

Colors:
I have no idea 

Ink costs:
Correct me if im wrong, but i calculated this:
Epson 1280 uses 6colors, each cartridge cost 30$, and in average every cartridge has 10,000page lifetime at 5% coverage. I think a photo could be not 5 but 50% coverage, so 10,000pages reduced to 1000page. So... 6 cartridge = 6x30$ = 180$ divided to 1000 prints = 0.18$/page.

Druability (of the transfer):
I think i'll do some tests with 2 shirts, a black and a white one. I'll put a laser and an inkjet print on them an wash them several times at 30C degree, and not turned inside out (i was everything this was) and later i'll post my test results here. I'll be using FOREVER foils, because thats the only one that i could get at the moment.


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## Lucratif $t.

i definately want to know how that test turns out! keep us posted. IM debating between laser and inkjet rightnow too. I need something wide, long and fast.. and ofcourse good quality!


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## RedEye

check out www.atttransfer.com in regards to laser dye sub. It has come a long way. I currently own a Oki and i have done some inkjet in the past. The Oki is great. It does run a close 2nd behind a good inkjet. But from someone who knows nothing about tshirts, they really like the laser prints. (i tested this on my parents, they know nothing and didn't know what i was showing them, but they said they really liked it).


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## Solmu

RedEye said:


> i tested this on my parents


No offense, but you can't really truly _test_ anything on parents.

Whether they're prone to criticism or to praise, they're rarely objective.


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## RedEye

Solmu said:


> No offense, but you can't really truly _test_ anything on parents.
> 
> Whether they're prone to criticism or to praise, they're rarely objective.


no offense taken...but my parents tell me how it is...if it looked like ****, they would of told me.


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## taurusndixie

Hey Steve from signforums, this is taurusndixie. Say your Mom and Dad would tell you if your work looked like crap, ? That is funny. We all need parents like that.
Seriously, I don't want the quality of my shirt prints to be a close second, but the best desktop, durable print possible. But I guess in life we are always after something a little better.

Thanks for keeping us informed


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## RedEye

taurusndixie said:


> Hey Steve from signforums, this is taurusndixie. Say your Mom and Dad would tell you if your work looked like crap, ? That is funny. We all need parents like that.
> Seriously, I don't want the quality of my shirt prints to be a close second, but the best desktop, durable print possible. But I guess in life we are always after something a little better.
> 
> Thanks for keeping us informed


 yea i'm not 12 anymore....that ashtray I made is now ugly. 

Seriously...i run alot by my parents, from logos, to tshirts designs, to decals. I should of seen how many logos i went through when i first got started that they turned their nose up at. 

You are going to never been down with the laser. With inkjet, if you take the weekend off, you'll come in with partially clogged nozels (yes i'm exaggerating). Do you loose some quality to substitue with lower cost per transfer with great results....yes some. But just with everythign else....there are pros and there are cons to everything.


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## gabbythepriest

*Re: Inkjet Printer vs. Laser Printer*

Hello,
Since you're printing in multicolor, inkjet would be a better choice for you. They have better color and are much cheaper than color lasers. 

pickyguide.com/computers_and_software/inkjet_printers_guide.html
This guide can help you get started.


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## testingoki

RedEye said:


> check out Automatic Transfer, Inc. - Sublimation Transfer Inks and Heat Transfer Papers in regards to laser dye sub. It has come a long way. I currently own a Oki and i have done some inkjet in the past. The Oki is great. It does run a close 2nd behind a good inkjet. But from someone who knows nothing about tshirts, they really like the laser prints. (i tested this on my parents, they know nothing and didn't know what i was showing them, but they said they really liked it).


RedEye,
What type of transfer paper are you using with your Oki. Which Oki do you use for the transfers? I'm using a c7500 with techniprint paper and having a terrible time with my transfers.

Have a great day,
Sue


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## Magenta

I'm using an OKi c5600 with magictouch TTC and OBM paper.

I'm having problem with OBM papers as they leave a white outline after plotting which is very visible on black t-shirt.

This flaw is not seen on TTC with white coloured t-shirt, anyone has any experiences ?


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## deniseg

HI i have used both inkjet and laser my printer was a Epson with Durabrite inks the prints i got out where very good, however very expensive  i switched to OKI5600 which is none oily and Duracotton HT and not looked back  i have done wash test and the col kept better with the laser then the epson although the epson started off a little better.Now as to my DK shirts i use Laser Opaque 1 from coastal i found them to be soft,almost no hand and wash well, colours stay bright.I wash at 30 with normal wash powder but not always inside out and dry on hot, I don't think in general the public wash very carefully either


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## deniseg

Magenta said:


> I'm using an OKi c5600 with magictouch TTC and OBM paper.
> 
> I'm having problem with OBM papers as they leave a white outline after plotting which is very visible on black t-shirt.
> 
> This flaw is not seen on TTC with white coloured t-shirt, anyone has any experiences ?


sorry i don't have a plotter i cut by hand so can make sure i have no white showing


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## Magenta

deniseg said:


> HI i have used both inkjet and laser my printer was a Epson with Durabrite inks the prints i got out where very good, however very expensive  i switched to OKI5600 which is none oily and Duracotton HT and not looked back  i have done wash test and the col kept better with the laser then the epson although the epson started off a little better.Now as to my DK shirts i use Laser Opaque 1 from coastal i found them to be soft,almost no hand and wash well, colours stay bright.I wash at 30 with normal wash powder but not always inside out and dry on hot, I don't think in general the public wash very carefully either


Do you have an issue with using Laser Opaque 1 on black t-shirt ?

The white underlining media can be seen as an outline very clearly on darker coloured t-shirt. 

I was wondering how can this flaw be reduced.


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## Magenta

deniseg said:


> sorry i don't have a plotter i cut by hand so can make sure i have no white showing


Are you refering to TTC or OBM ? because I've tried cutting with hand but the white lining can still be seen by the side.


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## deniseg

Magenta said:


> Do you have an issue with using Laser Opaque 1 on black t-shirt ?
> 
> The white underlining media can be seen as an outline very clearly on darker coloured t-shirt.
> 
> I was wondering how can this flaw be
> 
> reduced.


 I trim by hand if there is a small bit inbetween the design that needs to be trimmed i use a scarple knife to cut it away i never have trouble with the white showing another angle it to put it onto a coloured back ground that will blen with the design and shirt


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## LiveAloha

With the laser printing does it require using a Plotter?


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## deniseg

LiveAloha said:


> With the laser printing does it require using a Plotter?


not unless you want to use 1 it depends on the type of design u use  if its very curly whirly or needs a lot of weeding that may be your best bet  I don't use 1 with my laser printer i cut by hand,but my designs are easy cut  hope this helps


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## handiangler

would like to know which is better, Laser vs Inkjet? With laser can I use OEM toners?
I have been using a Epson 1280 till I'm getting blue lines about every .02 inches apart.
The Utility patter print great ... But when I print a image .... I have blue lines in it.

I'm thin/king on the OkI 8800 ...
Any suggestions be appreciated.....
doug


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## stuffnthingz

I use the Oki 5800. I will tell you it is not perfect, but it is a good printer. I did a big job and printed over 30 transfers before I noticed a blue line/2 blue lines alternating through the prints. I ended up swapping out the cartridge/drum to an extra (its a long story, but I have 2 sets of cartridge/drums) yellow drum and voila, problem fixed. Now the question is what would I have done to fix the problem If the problem started and I did not have extra components lying around? I have priced replacement CMYK and it is WELL over what I paid for the printer when it comes time to replace them. The est prints is 2k per for the standard toner and 5k if you get the larger size toner. I have printed at least a 1k if not 1.5k by now with only that one problem with the streaks.

Photo quality is ok to good, I find that the tone is a bit to peachy. I print the photos on mouspads and they come out spectacular using Duracotton HT. I have yet to print a photo on a T-shirt. My niche's don't call for that at all.

the 8800 is the large footprint and will be GREAT for larger transfers. I have not had a call for anything big yet, but I am now limited to the smaller footprint anyways.

I use the 88 and like it as well, but boy oh boy is it slow. The colors on it are pretty cold in tone compared to the Oki colors.

Quick update: I paid $327 for my 5800, I see the 8800 is like $2k... ouch!


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## Phantom

Well, guys/ladies I'm kind of new here. I run a digital print shop (Xerox laser printers), and am branching out into Tees. I have a heat press that should be in in about a week. I will experiment with the laser transfer papers when the press comes in. For anyone who has transfers that work with the Xerox EA toner, and if you have the volume, you can lease the machines from Xerox on a click charge basis of about 8 cents an image in color, and about 1 cent and image in black and white (usually 12x18 is what I normally print on when making books). Lease fees are in addition to "click charges" and vary depending upon what machine you get and if you get a finisher for printed items (folder, stapler). Xerox will be happy to discuss lease fees with you. What you get for your money is free toner, consumables, and fast maintenance. When I call in, they usually get back to me within an hour to schedule a service call which is usually the next day. Xerox keeps a usage history on their customers. They use this history to anticipate supply usage and will make sure you have back up supplies of toner and consumables so you won't have down time. I use sooo much toner, I can't figure out how they make money off of me. The unit I use prints at up to 2400 DPI. I can't wait to see what it will do on a shirt. I hope some of you find this information helpful.


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## melbyj71

There is a place close to me that is using a Xeroc Docucolor 12 to print their laser transfers. They are in a high profile strip mall (moved in when it was brand new, across from a new WalMart Supercenter). The laser transfer business is approximatly 85% of what they do! They have been in it now for 2 years and every time I have ever been in there it has been BUSY! Wish I knew what paper they were using!


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## Phantom

I have my heat press in and will be doing some experiments on it this week. I have two types of paper in and will let you know the results. Like I said before, if you don't have the volume, the lease fees will KILL you on a Xerox. If this works, I could maybe start an online service for transfers for folks who don't have access to one of these machines or for those who don't want to pay the high fees the Kinko's type places charge. I normally charge $0.50 to $0.60 for 11x17 to 12x18 color prints on 80# cover stock. Considering the copy places charge from $1.49 to $3.50, I think this is a bargain. I will have to find out the paper costs, but if they print all right, I don't see why I couldn't do them in any quantity large or small and adjust the costs for the transfer paper.


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## jge

If you print volumes, nothing beats a laser (especially if it's an expensive colour laser, as their toners last much longer and cost less than cheap low end machines). Personally I use a Toshiba - have done 450,000 prints over 3 years, and including toner and maintenance, has cost me just over $ 0.03 per print. 

The best quality laser transfer paper I have found so far is the Forever Classic Plus (which I have to buy from my opposition - I wouldn't buy it if I could find something else with the same durability and ease of printing)....


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## deniseg

Phantom said:


> I have my heat press in and will be doing some experiments on it this week. I have two types of paper in and will let you know the results. Like I said before, if you don't have the volume, the lease fees will KILL you on a Xerox. If this works, I could maybe start an online service for transfers for folks who don't have access to one of these machines or for those who don't want to pay the high fees the Kinko's type places charge. I normally charge $0.50 to $0.60 for 11x17 to 12x18 color prints on 80# cover stock. Considering the copy places charge from $1.49 to $3.50, I think this is a bargain. I will have to find out the paper costs, but if they print all right, I don't see why I couldn't do them in any quantity large or small and adjust the costs for the transfer paper.


what kind of paper are you thinking of using I have been using Duracotton and love it but its expensive for me to get in UK as have to have it posted from Canada due to the fact we use A4 and USA uses letter  
Also anyone using Laser for Dks ? if so what do u use


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## VisibleScars

Does anyone have reccos for "clipped" transfer paper (i.e. the kind that only transfers where the graphics have printed on)? I have heard of a couple out there for whites, such as Paropy CL Trimfree for Laser printers, or Image Clip for Laser. Are any available for Inkjet as well? Thanks in advance.


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## Lnfortun

There is Imageclip for inkjet for lights.


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## nellietjh

I could sure use some advise. I was hoping to do laser transfers for my shirts but I tried Digi-Trans and Image Clip with my Xerox Phaser 7760 and found out very quickly that it doesn't work... ruined my fuser, in fact.

Could some of you provide specific info on laser printers that work well with transfers, as well as the best kinds of transfers you have used? I seem to be beating my head against the wall trying to figure out what toner for is oil/non-oil based, etc! I would really prefer laser to inkjet, as the inkjet I have seems to intermittently blip ink drops, ruining my transfers. Screenprinting isn't an option for me at the moment so I am hoping that laser is the way to go. I did read through this forum but some of the info is a bit old and I wanted to get the most current info that I can. 

Thanks a million for your assistance!


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## deniseg

Hi there
Well i have an OKI A4 printer and just ordered a new Oki 810n A3 printer I love them I use Duracotton paper which leaves no hand and print's so clear it looks like a photo You can get the paper from AutoArt look up their web site it will give you a list of printer's that are good for thier paper.I have used inkjet printer's when I first started but didn't like the result so switched to laser and never looked back.
Hope this helps and good luck/
Denise


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## silly

deniseg said:


> Hi there
> Well i have an OKI A4 printer and just ordered a new Oki 810n A3 printer I love them I use Duracotton paper which leaves no hand and print's so clear it looks like a photo You can get the paper from AutoArt look up their web site it will give you a list of printer's that are good for thier paper.I have used inkjet printer's when I first started but didn't like the result so switched to laser and never looked back.
> Hope this helps and good luck/
> Denise


Denise, thanks for your thoughts. I'm having the same dilemma, Inkjet or Laser. I just read on this forum where a guy used inkjet, then laser and thought inkjet was better. Haha. I would imagine laser would be better. What are your reasons for choosing laser? Who do you buy your paper from? Thanks so much.


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## deniseg

silly said:


> Denise, thanks for your thoughts. I'm having the same dilemma, Inkjet or Laser. I just read on this forum where a guy used inkjet, then laser and thought inkjet was better. Haha. I would imagine laser would be better. What are your reasons for choosing laser? Who do you buy your paper from? Thanks so much.


Just to add a note i started off with Epson inkjet had to use Durobrite ink as u need a dye ink so can't use the cheaper ink and although there is a good paper for inkjet I found the ink far to expensive so that was why I switched to a Laser Printer and not looked back


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## DEMBROIDERY

Denise:

Can you be more specific on the vendors for your papers and ink on dark and light color t-shirts.

Thank you


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## jean518

You need pigment ink for inkjet transfers not dye based. I switched to non epson inks and have never looked back.


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## silly

jean518 said:


> You need pigment ink for inkjet transfers not dye based. I switched to non epson inks and have never looked back.


Hello Jean, who do you buy your non espon inks from? and how do you buy them? Bulk feed system, individual carts...

thanks!


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## jean518

I have the refillable cartridges from Ron Luk at efillink.com.


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## deniseg

DEMBROIDERY said:


> Denise:
> 
> Can you be more specific on the vendors for your papers and ink on dark and light color t-shirts.
> 
> Thank you


I get my paper from AutoArt for lts and for dk from Magic cut.
AutoArt is in USA and Magic cut is in Grt Britian although I think they have a company in USA also. Hope this helps


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## MarieT

deniseg said:


> I get my paper from AutoArt for lts and for dk from Magic cut.
> AutoArt is in USA and Magic cut is in Grt Britian although I think they have a company in USA also. Hope this helps


I know this thread is about 3 months old but found it very helpful information. Thanks to those who contributed generously!

I would like to know more about how this laser printing does on dark shirts? I too have used an Epson inkjet with Durabrite inks and the transfer paper i used left a thick print/alot of hand, and was just too stiff for my liking. How does the laser printing compared to this? Also what kind of transfer paper would you suggest for this laser printer for printing on dark shirts?


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## BroJames

MarieT said:


> I know this thread is about 3 months old but found it very helpful information. Thanks to those who contributed generously!
> 
> I would like to know more about how this laser printing does on dark shirts? I too have used an Epson inkjet with Durabrite inks and the transfer paper i used left a thick print/alot of hand, and was just too stiff for my liking. How does the laser printing compared to this? Also what kind of transfer paper would you suggest for this laser printer for printing on dark shirts?


That's a gross understatement. This thread was started on August of 2006 or nearly 5 years ago.

There are various types of paper and some are "thicker" than others. It feels like a thin sheet of smooth paper.


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## Ducks

Hi.

Anyone still here?

I know this is old thread,but im starting heat transfer shirt business and do people still think laser is better?

I heard Epson inkjets with Durabrite pigment inks is rly good choice.What you guys think?

They hold up washing and not fade in firsts washes.

If i go with laser,do i need to buy some special toner to it ?

Or what about if i go with some Epson like 1400 and get CIS system to it,can i still use cotton shirts or are those inks only for Polyester shirts ?

If i understand this right.Cis system inks are outside the printer and those are sublimation inks?

so then i need sublimation paper too?

Pls help me.


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## deniseg

Ducks said:


> Hi.
> 
> Anyone still here?
> 
> I know this is old thread,but im starting heat transfer shirt business and do people still think laser is better?
> 
> I heard Epson inkjets with Durabrite pigment inks is rly good choice.What you guys think?
> 
> They hold up washing and not fade in firsts washes.
> 
> If i go with laser,do i need to buy some special toner to it ?
> 
> Or what about if i go with some Epson like 1400 and get CIS system to it,can i still use cotton shirts or are those inks only for Polyester shirts ?
> 
> If i understand this right.Cis system inks are outside the printer and those are sublimation inks?
> 
> so then i need sublimation paper too?
> 
> 
> Pls help me.[/quote
> 
> Hi
> I started with Epsom with durabrite and yes they do stand up to washing well and last but boy are they expensive and slow to print so I switched to OKI laser print and never looked back,no u don't need a special toner but I do keep to the OKI inks.The only change I have made since changing to a Laser printer is to get a A3 instead of the A4 I would say which ever way you go if doing T-shirts if you can get a A3 printer even if you start off with using A4. Hope this helps and good luck
> ps I can print 50/50 all cotton and poly


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## deniseg

MarieT said:


> I know this thread is about 3 months old but found it very helpful information. Thanks to those who contributed generously!
> 
> I would like to know more about how this laser printing does on dark shirts? I too have used an Epson inkjet with Durabrite inks and the transfer paper i used left a thick print/alot of hand, and was just too stiff for my liking. How does the laser printing compared to this? Also what kind of transfer paper would you suggest for this laser printer for printing on dark shirts?


just as an update i still haven't found a really good paper for me as they still have a heavy feel however I have seen Magic Touch WOW paper and it's very good lol I'ts just that I can't seem to get it to work they think it may be my press but I can't see that so I have given up and use a grafic cutter to do some of my designs and going to look at the new small Roland Cutter/printer to see that will work for me.
I have been very pleased with my laser printer and would never go back to a inkjet.


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## Ducks

deniseg said:


> Ducks said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi.
> 
> Anyone still here?
> 
> I know this is old thread,but im starting heat transfer shirt business and do people still think laser is better?
> 
> I heard Epson inkjets with Durabrite pigment inks is rly good choice.What you guys think?
> 
> They hold up washing and not fade in firsts washes.
> 
> If i go with laser,do i need to buy some special toner to it ?
> 
> Or what about if i go with some Epson like 1400 and get CIS system to it,can i still use cotton shirts or are those inks only for Polyester shirts ?
> 
> If i understand this right.Cis system inks are outside the printer and those are sublimation inks?
> 
> so then i need sublimation paper too?
> 
> 
> Pls help me.[/quote
> 
> Hi
> I started with Epsom with durabrite and yes they do stand up to washing well and last but boy are they expensive and slow to print so I switched to OKI laser print and never looked back,no u don't need a special toner but I do keep to the OKI inks.The only change I have made since changing to a Laser printer is to get a A3 instead of the A4 I would say which ever way you go if doing T-shirts if you can get a A3 printer even if you start off with using A4. Hope this helps and good luck
> ps I can print 50/50 all cotton and poly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much.yea im getting A3 epson with durabrite ink snice they dont cost so much in finland.laser toners are waay more expensive but they last a lot longer but still inks are cheaper in long run.
> 
> This was so helpful.
> I just want to get started with decent equipment.
Click to expand...


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## BroJames

Ducks said:


> deniseg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much.yea im getting A3 epson with durabrite ink snice they dont cost so much in finland.laser toners are waay more expensive but they last a lot longer but still inks are cheaper in long run.
> 
> This was so helpful.
> I just want to get started with decent equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the comparative costing but some claim that laser toners are cheaper in the long run.
Click to expand...


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## deniseg

BroJames said:


> Ducks said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the comparative costing but some claim that laser toners are cheaper in the long run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would agree with that having 1st run with inkjet
Click to expand...


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## showtime9023

What transfer paper would be recomended for an inkjet printer? I am getting ready to purchase a printer and am leaning towards laser only because I can't seem to find weedless paper for an inkjet.


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## jhoop371

Hi Scott, I am pretty new to the bizz..I recently purchased an Epson WF7010 with the CISS system (inkjet) from cobra ink..love the ciss system! cheap ink IMO. I use the jet pro soft paper for lights and the 3g/opaque for darks. Really like the hand of the JPS. I use the cameo cutter to cut out detailed images so as to not have the leftover glue. I know there is weedless paper, havent heard much about it tho, with the cameo you don't need weedless


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## showtime9023

Thank you jhoop. I will research the cutter you mentioned. There is just so much info out there it can be overwhelming to us newbies. I think I hold a full time job just to backup a potential bad purchase. I'll get there. Thanks for the info.

Scott


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## mike9

do laser printers require "trimming"? with light transfer paper on inkjet for example anything not printed on teh paper will leave a white box that you need to cut.

also i only see laser printers with widths up to 8.5" which imo does not cut it for xl t-shirts.


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## Lnfortun

mike9 said:


> do laser printers require "trimming"? with light transfer paper on inkjet for example anything not printed on teh paper will leave a white box that you need to cut.
> 
> also i only see laser printers with widths up to 8.5" which imo does not cut it for xl t-shirts.


Imageclip Laser Light is a 2 step self weeding transfer that does not require trimming.


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## BroJames

Hi Luis. It's been a while.

The local distributor of imageclip recommended fuji printers but I heard there is some problem such that they do not sell nor recommend fuji anymore. Which reminds me to try see if OKI is available here.

Any suggestion to minimize cracking?


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## Lnfortun

BroJames said:


> Hi Luis. It's been a while.
> 
> The local distributor of imageclip recommended fuji printers but I heard there is some problem such that they do not sell nor recommend fuji anymore. Which reminds me to try see if OKI is available here.
> 
> Any suggestion to minimize cracking?


What causes cracking with any type of transfer is the materials between the knit ribs are not exposed to the polymer of the transfer when the transfer is pressed. Pressing with very heavy pressure, pre-stretching, post stretching and post pressing with parchment paper for 6 to 10 seconds are necessary to become successful in minimizing cracking with Imageclip Laser Light or other transfer paper.

I have a swing away press that I use the weight of the upper platen to help keep the shirt from returning back to its relaxed state when I pre-stretch the shirt. If you have a clamp press you can use corrugted cardboard and or with Teflon pillow to keep the shirt stretched as descirbed below.

I use the the steps below which can be applied also with other brand of transfers:

1) Lay the shirt on the lower patten.
2) Lower the upper platen without locking down the press but keeps its weight on the shirt.
3) Stretch the sides of the length of the clamped part of the shirt.
4) Lock the upper platen for 5 seconds to remove wrinkle, moisture and keep the shirt stretched and prevent from going back to relaxed form.
5) Open the press.
6) Locate and press the transfer for recommended time, temp and pressure (in this case Imageclip settings are 15s, 375F and very heavy pressure)
7) Pick the shirt by the shoulders.
8) Wave it in the air for 6s to let the polymer set.
9) Lay the shirt back on the lower platen.
10) Press for 5s to 6s.
11) Open the press.
12) Peel the transfer diagonally with smooth motion while keeping the transfer close to the lower platen to prevent the fibers from lifting up.
13) Stretch the shirt on all sides while hot.
14) Cover the shirt with parchment paper. Never use Teflon sheet otherwise you will have ghosting on the next shirt.
15) Press for 6s to 10s.
16) Remove the parchment paper.
17) Remove the shirt and again stretch the shirt on all sides while hot.

On ribbed knit shirt or other shirt that is narrower than the press platen, which cannot be stretched while the lower platen is on top of the shirt, I use corrugated cardboard that is wider (Wide enough to expose the material between knit ribs) than the shirt to keep the shirt stretched while it is pressed. I insert the cardboard inside the shirt. Then I insert a Teflon pillow (can be substituted with high temp foam or thick silicon baking cookie sheet) between the side of the shirt where transfer will be applied and the cardboard. I press the bundle and the transfer using the steps above except step 3. Lastly remove the inserts.

With infant and youth size shirt I use large Teflon pillow that is big enough to stretch the shirt and do away with corrugated cardboard.


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## GordonM

Some EXCELLENT advice Luis. Terrific post!


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## hussainz

Lnfortun said:


> What causes cracking with any type of transfer is the materials between the knit ribs are not exposed to the polymer of the transfer when the transfer is pressed. Pressing with very heavy pressure, pre-stretching, post stretching and post pressing with parchment paper for 6 to 10 seconds are necessary to become successful in minimizing cracking with Imageclip Laser Light or other transfer paper.
> 
> I have a swing away press that I use the weight of the upper platen to help keep the shirt from returning back to its relaxed state when I pre-stretch the shirt. If you have a clamp press you can use corrugted cardboard and or with Teflon pillow to keep the shirt stretched as descirbed below.
> 
> I use the the steps below which can be applied also with other brand of transfers:
> 
> 1) Lay the shirt on the lower patten.
> 2) Lower the upper platen without locking down the press but keeps its weight on the shirt.
> 3) Stretch the sides of the length of the clamped part of the shirt.
> 4) Lock the upper platen for 5 seconds to remove wrinkle, moisture and keep the shirt stretched and prevent from going back to relaxed form.
> 5) Open the press.
> 6) Locate and press the transfer for recommended time, temp and pressure (in this case Imageclip settings are 15s, 375F and very heavy pressure)
> 7) Pick the shirt by the shoulders.
> 8) Wave it in the air for 6s to let the polymer set.
> 9) Lay the shirt back on the lower platen.
> 10) Press for 5s to 6s.
> 11) Open the press.
> 12) Peel the transfer diagonally with smooth motion while keeping the transfer close to the lower platen to prevent the fibers from lifting up.
> 13) Stretch the shirt on all sides while hot.
> 14) Cover the shirt with parchment paper. Never use Teflon sheet otherwise you will have ghosting on the next shirt.
> 15) Press for 6s to 10s.
> 16) Remove the parchment paper.
> 17) Remove the shirt and again stretch the shirt on all sides while hot.
> 
> On ribbed knit shirt or other shirt that is narrower than the press platen, which cannot be stretched while the lower platen is on top of the shirt, I use corrugated cardboard that is wider (Wide enough to expose the material between knit ribs) than the shirt to keep the shirt stretched while it is pressed. I insert the cardboard inside the shirt. Then I insert a Teflon pillow (can be substituted with high temp foam or thick silicon baking cookie sheet) between the side of the shirt where transfer will be applied and the cardboard. I press the bundle and the transfer using the steps above except step 3. Lastly remove the inserts.
> 
> With infant and youth size shirt I use large Teflon pillow that is big enough to stretch the shirt and do away with corrugated cardboard.


 
Hi Lnfortun,
hi everybody,

from searching and reading articals am confused.

which is better inkjet or lasser ?
what are the best printer?
what is the best paper?

some says laser & some inkjet!!
some says oki! epson! richo!
some says proworld paper! 3g opeque! and the list goes more !!!

any answers pleas, ASAP


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## zackman2091

I know this page is super old but i would like some incite. I first started looking at any printer that used pigment ink cause people said it didnt fade (Epson Artisan 1430, or HP OfficeJet Pro 8610). Now i dont know where to look for a good laser printer with pigment ink. If anyone could give me specific models of good laser printers that would be awesome.


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## Lnfortun

Laser toner is pigmented polymer powder. The pigment is what gives the toner color. If is dry pigment as compared to inkjet wet pigment. I have an obsolete C5200Ne that I bought in the 90's and it is still working. I even use compatible toner in it. I had changed drums, toner cartridges and lately the fuser. Knock on wood I still have a very descent printer. 

For me any Okidata color laser printer would be good candidate. It is just a matter of what you can afford. Some Okidata color laser printers are made specifically for heat transfers. They have preset setup that is made for specific heat transfer. There are also Okidata printers with white toner. Very pricey. 

I still am an avid fan of Imageclip laser light because it is truly self weeding. It is easy to use and durable. Those so called single step self weeding laser transfer for light flakes off, cracks and fades after wash. The self weeding part is hit and miss.


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## zackman2091

I am trying to keep my cost down as of now cause i have to buy the press, printer, and cutter. Which oki specific would you choose on a limited budget, that would still perform well. 

We will probably consider upgrading down the road but right now we just want to get the products out there.


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## Lnfortun

zackman2091 said:


> I am trying to keep my cost down as of now cause i have to buy the press, printer, and cutter. Which oki specific would you choose on a limited budget, that would still perform well.
> 
> We will probably consider upgrading down the road but right now we just want to get the products out there.


Lots of members swear by OKI C610. I don't own one I am going by what others say. You have to search the forum for more positive or negative feedback. You can buy low end OKI C331 but that just it is low end. It does not look like it is heavy duty. Besides the toner has very low capacity. When it is time to change toner and drum set you can probably buy a new printer with cost of the consumables. Laser printers are no different than inkjet printers. They lure you in with low price of the printer then hit you with the consumables. Shop around for the price of the consumables for the model you are considering before you buy the printer. So don't go too cheap.


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## zackman2091

Lnfortun said:


> zackman2091 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying to keep my cost down as of now cause i have to buy the press, printer, and cutter. Which oki specific would you choose on a limited budget, that would still perform well.
> 
> We will probably consider upgrading down the road but right now we just want to get the products out there.
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of members swear by OKI C610. I don't own one I am going by what others say. You have to search the forum for more positive or negative feedback. You can buy low end OKI C331 but that just it is low end. It does not look like it is heavy duty. Besides the toner has very capacity. When it is time to change toner and drum set you can probably buy a new printer with cost of the consumables. Laser printers are no different than inkjet printers. They lure you in with low price of the printer then hit you with the consumables. Shop around for the price of the consumables for the model you are considering before you buy the printer. So don't go too cheap.
Click to expand...




zackman2091 said:


> I know this page is super old but i would like some incite. I first started looking at any printer that used pigment ink cause people said it didnt fade (Epson Artisan 1430, or HP OfficeJet Pro 8610). Now i dont know where to look for a good laser printer with pigment ink. If anyone could give me specific models of good laser printers that would be awesome.



So essentially as long as I were to use the right transfer paper and pigment ink, an inkjet would do essentially the same quality and laser? Add ons seems close to the same for the OKI C610. I can get all 4 toners for about 120 and for say the HP printer it's 30 per ink

I appreciate the help. There is alot to learn going into this and I'm just starting.


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## fasttrackgraphix

I am wanting to get into doing t-shirts in addition to my vinyl sign shop. I want something similar to the PrismJet DTx that signwarehouse used to sell. It will do stickers and graphics for tshirts. Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## FaiCheung

Lnfortun said:


> Laser toner is pigmented polymer powder. The pigment is what gives the toner color. If is dry pigment as compared to inkjet wet pigment. I have an obsolete C5200Ne that I bought in the 90's and it is still working. I even use compatible toner in it. I had changed drums, toner cartridges and lately the fuser. Knock on wood I still have a very descent printer.
> 
> For me any Okidata color laser printer would be good candidate. It is just a matter of what you can afford. Some Okidata color laser printers are made specifically for heat transfers. They have preset setup that is made for specific heat transfer. There are also Okidata printers with white toner. Very pricey.
> 
> I still am an avid fan of Imageclip laser light because it is truly self weeding. It is easy to use and durable. Those so called single step self weeding laser transfer for light flakes off, cracks and fades after wash. The self weeding part is hit and miss.


Hi Luis,

I saw you talked about the Imageclip Laser light a lot. Is it also have one for Dark and is it also good? Moreover, are there any kind of Imageclip can be advised or no matter the brand is, it will be great?


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## Lnfortun

FaiCheung said:


> Hi Luis,
> 
> I saw you talked about the Imageclip Laser light a lot. Is it also have one for Dark and is it also good? Moreover, are there any kind of Imageclip can be advised or no matter the brand is, it will be great?


There is Imageclip Laser Dark but you need color laser printer with white toner or CMYK printer with interchangeable white and black toner/drum set for two pass printing to transfer white part of the image. However, the transfer is not as durable as Imageclip Laser light. There is also Forever Laser Dark No cut Low temp that is similar to Imageclip Laser dark. For CMYK Forever Flex Soft No cut for dark fabric. It only requires black toner.

Homepage - FOREVER White Toner Transfer
FOREVER - Heat Transfer Paper - Flex-Soft (No-Cut)

Stay away from single step self weeding transfer for light. It is hit and miss and not durable.

My suggestion is request free or buy sample quantity. Test it for quality and durability that way you are not out of a lot of money if it does not meet your expectation.


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## prathap

Color Laser Printer is preferable use epson printer


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## FaiCheung

Lnfortun said:


> There is Imageclip Laser Dark but you need color laser printer with white toner or CMYK printer with interchangeable white and black toner/drum set for two pass printing to transfer white part of the image. However, the transfer is not as durable as Imageclip Laser light. There is also Forever Laser Dark No cut Low temp that is similar to Imageclip Laser dark. For CMYK Forever Flex Soft No cut for dark fabric. It only requires black toner.
> 
> Homepage - FOREVER White Toner Transfer
> FOREVER - Heat Transfer Paper - Flex-Soft (No-Cut)
> 
> Stay away from single step self weeding transfer for light. It is hit and miss and not durable.
> 
> My suggestion is request free or buy sample quantity. Test it for quality and durability that way you are not out of a lot of money if it does not meet your expectation.


This is very useful information for me. Thanks a lot. However, seems there are not much printer with white toner and it is much expensive than the normal CMYK printer. Do you have some suggestion about the printer have white toner which many people are using?
If print with white toner, will the white background also be printed out? Any setting I need to made if I want to print some white area with the pattern?


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## Lnfortun

FaiCheung said:


> This is very useful information for me. Thanks a lot. However, seems there are not much printer with white toner and it is much expensive than the normal CMYK printer. Do you have some suggestion about the printer have white toner which many people are using?
> If print with white toner, will the white background also be printed out? Any setting I need to made if I want to print some white area with the pattern?


You have to remove the unwanted white background using Magic Eraser in Photoshop so that it is not printed as part of the image.

I don't own a printer with built in white toner so I cannot comment on that. However, I use Okidata C5200Ne CMYK printer which is obsolete but I can use it to print white art of a full color image buy substituting the black toner/drum set with translucent toner/drum set to flood over or print over the color image on second pass with transluscent toner. This allows the full color image including white part to transfer the opaque polymer from B sheet to A sheet when the two sheets are married. The result is weeded full color image on A sheet including white. When A sheet is pressed on the shirt then cool peeled the transferred image on the shirt is in full color with white.

The white or translucent toner is available from ATTTransfer.com


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