# Low Cure Plastisol Additive



## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

Anyone have experience using low cure additives for Plastisol on poly shirts. Does it work as well as the regular low cure inks?


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## Kenneth59 (Sep 28, 2013)

yes but go easy on the amount


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

Kenneth59 said:


> yes but go easy on the amount


Thanks. They were looking to see if anyone sold neon low cure ink at work and I mentioned that I had seen an additive for regular plastisol. They're afraid it won't hold up.


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

2020 PrintWorks said:


> Thanks. They were looking to see if anyone sold neon low cure ink at work and I mentioned that I had seen an additive for regular plastisol. They're afraid it won't hold up.


It holds up well as long as you mix correctly. I wouldn't mix brands myself as looking at MSDS years ago in noticed the international coatings and Excalibur inks had different chemical make up. I switched to Union Maxopake and never looked back which all cure at 300F.


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

That's cool. I never knew rutland cured at 300. They used to use that and union exclusively and then I guess they had an issue with the red bleeding into the white so they switched to wilflex.


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## jessica873 (Nov 27, 2014)

I was going to ask about low cure. I'm pretty new to screen printing myself as I do mostly DTG, but I have a setup from Ryonet with plastisol ink and it came with a low cure additive. So to be correct I can mix a little with the ink in my screen and use it on a tri blend shirt? Just wanted a little conformation that I'm on the right path.


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

That's the idea. It lowers the curing temp in order to stop dye migration. We mostly use one stroke and wilflex low cure inks and they work amazing. The one stroke actually cures around 260.


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## jessica873 (Nov 27, 2014)

2020 PrintWorks said:


> That's the idea. It lowers the curing temp in order to stop dye migration. We mostly use one stroke and wilflex low cure inks and they work amazing. The one stroke actually cures around 260.



For sure, Thank you.


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## TLK (Jan 15, 2013)

We use a really good Dye-blocking underbase that cures at 320degrees so you can just use regular plastisol on top without additives. Never have to worry about dye migration and we print polyester every week.


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## 2020 PrintWorks (Apr 22, 2011)

TLK said:


> We use a really good Dye-blocking underbase that cures at 320degrees so you can just use regular plastisol on top without additives. Never have to worry about dye migration and we print polyester every week.


Is it that black underbase that people use on sublimated shirts? That's actually a good alternative too. That stuff is really expensive but it would probably be cheaper than buy low cure inks in all the colors you might need.


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## TLK (Jan 15, 2013)

2020 PrintWorks said:


> Is it that black underbase that people use on sublimated shirts? That's actually a good alternative too. That stuff is really expensive but it would probably be cheaper than buy low cure inks in all the colors you might need.


No, it's a white dye-block plastisol from our supplier in the UK. We've tried loads of different brands but this was by far the best.


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## Greatzky (Jan 28, 2009)

sben763 said:


> It holds up well as long as you mix correctly. I wouldn't mix brands myself as looking at MSDS years ago in noticed the international coatings and Excalibur inks had different chemical make up. I switched to Union Maxopake and never looked back which all cure at 300F.


wish I had seen this sooner. added Excalibur LCA to some wilflex lava white and many other colors and just had a customer complain of the ink coming off in the wash. cured those at over 300 too when the LCA said it could be cured at 270. I even used a heat press for 20 seconds at 300 after already curing them through my dryer just for the flatter print and it still washed out. 

can't get ahead. like I have the time or cash to redo an order for a customer. FML.


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