# Any ideas on how to remove "locked" emulsion?



## ERDU88 (Feb 18, 2010)

I have a bunch of screens the the emulsion has locked onto. does anyone have any ideas of the best way to remove the locked emulsion?? i have tried aci-tone but it does not work

thanks


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## hdem (Mar 1, 2008)

Yes, a razor blade to cut out the mesh works great! Take the frame to someone who can remesh it for half the cost of buying a new frame and mesh. There is no other way. The strongest pressure washer in the world won't break the emulsion after it's been locked onto the screen if you left emulsion remover to dry on the mesh.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

ERDU88 said:


> I have a bunch of screens the the emulsion has locked onto. does anyone have any ideas of the best way to remove the locked emulsion?? i have tried aci-tone but it does not work


Strong solvents don't break down stencils because they are designed to resist solvents.

Sensitizers cross-link when exposed to UV energy, which makes the stencil insoluble. Stencil remover chemically breaks the cross-links. 

You should try blasting the stencil with high pressure water (the the car wash). This is the principle HydroBlaster taught us in the 1980's. Just pressure will blast even hardened stencil from the mesh. It certainly helps if you have tight mesh that resist the pulsing of the pump.


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## drunkswithapress (Jan 15, 2009)

I don't know what you use to remove the emulsion but i use household bleach. I've had some screens like this and the only thing i have found to work was to take the screens to the car wash, pour on some bleach, smoke a cigarette, scrub with a soft bristle brush, and hit it with the car wash sprayer. worked great for me.


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## INKFREAK (Jul 24, 2008)

Hey kids, listen to Richard. He's THE expert. I'am not kidding.Never have used bleach,just stencil remover and a powerwasher.I have never had a problem,even with locked in emulsion.


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## JeridHill (Feb 8, 2006)

I agree, the only way to remove it at this point is a high pressure washer. Years ago I had the same thing happen to one of my screens. I used a 3000 psi pressure washer and it took forever. But it did remove it. Not sure if it was worth the time though.


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## drunkswithapress (Jan 15, 2009)

yeah, i'm no pro, just a ghetto punk kid (30 yrs. old) who likes to screen print. just thought i would offer up what i do, and what helped me.


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## INKFREAK (Jul 24, 2008)

Not bashing you Brandon.Trying to save you kids from having a chemical fest.For 35$ you can get a concentrated stencil remover that makes 5 gallons of stencil remover that will last forever for most people unless your doing a large quantity of screens.You can even water it down more and it still works.I always tell people on the forum to go to the car wash because buying a electric powerwasher is out of the budget.But you need that power to get all the chemicals and residue out of the mesh.Your print is only as good as your screen. Cool?


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## drunkswithapress (Jan 15, 2009)

no hate, not here. I've only ever used bleach. i see your point. I have 13 screens i need to reclaim completely, not looking forward to it. just trying to help. yes, we agree on the car wash.


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## Tj Ryonet Tech (Jul 28, 2008)

I agree with Richard. High pressure is the saving grace at this point. An outdoor car wash works wonders. You don't want to do it too often but it works.


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## gerry (Oct 4, 2006)

I had a screen that was locked in and left it on a shelf for prob a year...one day i was washing with haze remover and thought i'd throw some on the old screen. After i powerwashed it it came out like new, so I agree about the high pressure wash.


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## T.Roberson (Dec 19, 2010)

You know that there are so many pro screem prnters on t-shirt forum that you would think that someone coud give you a straight answer on how to remove lock in emulsion. Well i have about 20 plus screens that are that way my self. My shop get's pretty Hot here in the summer. last 4 weeks have been well over 100 and i had to do some all over prints today and i went to wash my screens and and holy cow i have tried everything even called a friend of mine he said bleach and that is all he has ever used. I called him back and told him he was dreaming this is not going anywhere. They make a haze rover that is a thick paste and i have used it . but don't let it stay on long because it will rip the screens just like a cat got a hold of it. Is there a forsure answer well so far i have not seen one. xtremeinkz.com


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: Any ideas on how to remove "locked" stencil?*



T.Roberson said:


> You know that there are so many pro screem prnters on t-shirt forum that you would think that someone coud give you a straight answer on how to remove lock in emulsion.
> 
> Well i have about 20 plus screens that are that way my self.
> 
> ...


As a self proclaimed "pro screen maker" I ask you to please re-read Post #3.

There is no reason for textile ink printers to use 'caustic' haze removers that have any kind of a time limit because they attack the mesh, plus the fumes & splatter are dangerous. They operate by chemically attacking everything they come into contact with and can't tell stencil from mesh.

Your experience with household bleach doesn't need an explanation.

*Homework*
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t2786.html#post475759

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t75691.html#post450850

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t161030.html#post959368

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t9140.html#post60019

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t115976.html#post681209

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t116040.html#post681418

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/plastisol-ink-screen-printing/t115897.html#post684183


Please reply if you need more links.


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## T.Roberson (Dec 19, 2010)

*Re: Any ideas on how to remove "locked" stencil?*



RichardGreaves said:


> As a self proclaimed "pro screen maker" I ask you to please re-read Post #3.
> 
> There is no reason for textile ink printers to use 'caustic' haze removers that have any kind of a time limit because they attack the mesh, plus the fumes & splatter are dangerous. They operate by chemically attacking everything they come into contact with and can't tell stencil from mesh.
> 
> ...


 So what was the final answer? Just like i said..zillion reason how and not.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm confused by how you're distracted by zillions how and not - I think I was very clear. 

Please re-read Post #3, unless you're suggesting I know a better way to correct the situation you got yourself into, but I'm keeping it a secret to frustrate you.

The homework I suggested is to demonstrate that you are at the end of a long line of screen makers training themselves. How's that working for you?

"You should try blasting the stencil with high pressure water (the the car wash). This is the principle HydroBlaster taught us in the 1980's. Just water pressure with no chemicals will blast even hardened stencil from the mesh. It certainly helps if you have tight mesh that can resist the pulsing of the pump."


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## gerryppg (Jan 29, 2010)

Or if these are wood frames, buy another. You can get 20x24 wood frames as low as $12.00 each. To me not worth the time to mess with.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Gerry, where can you get a wood screen for $12.00?


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## gerryppg (Jan 29, 2010)

Pocono screen will run specials on Ebay for a dozen wood 20x24 110 or 158 mesh for right around $12.00 ea. The mesh is tight and they are really nice wood frames. I prefer aluminum but these wood frames are a great value


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