# Plastisol Transfers - why COLD PEEL ?



## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

sorry if this has been asked before here. Can someone explain WHY ? 

Why do you buy/use COLD Peel plastisol transfers to print on dark shirts ?

Why would some transfer manufacturers or screen printers make the plastisol transfers COLD peel ONLY, to apply on dark shirts ? is it because of the equipment, inks etc. they use ? 

Why NOT use HOT peel transfers to apply on dark shirts ?

What makes a HOT peel or COLD peel plastisol transfer different when printing them on dark shirts.

Curious to hear your views. Transfer users, Transfer makers and Screen printers.

thanks.



..after intensive research/learning on the this board, these are my final questions relating to plastisol Transfers.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I agree...opaque hot peels work everytime for me. The only coldpeel transfer I have is a highly glossy butterfly with shimmering inks in it. The transfer looks great and I can only surmise its because of the inks and gloss that makes it a cold peel. I dont think if I were ordering custom transfer I would want cold peel normally.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I agree...opaque hot peels work everytime for me. The only coldpeel transfer I have is a highly glossy butterfly with shimmering inks in it. The transfer looks great and I can only surmise its because of the inks and gloss that makes it a cold peel. I dont think if I were ordering custom transfer I would want cold peel normally.


thanks David.

I wish I could get a little more feedback from other users, transfer makers and screen printers on the board.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

On one test I did with a cold peel plastisol transfer I noticed that if I tried to pull it up before it cooled down some of the ink would be pulled up with it. But when I waited for them to cool the inks stayed. I think they harden a bit so that is why they work. I think the inks are thicker than say a hot split transfer. Let not confuse opaque hot peel from opaque plastisol transfers they are two different things.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

badalou said:


> On one test I did with a cold peel plastisol transfer I noticed that if I tried to pull it up before it cooled down some of the ink would be pulled up with it. But when I waited for them to cool the inks stayed. I think they harden a bit so that is why they work. I think the inks are thicker than say a hot split transfer.


Thanks for the User End Input Lou.

When you do the COLD peel, did you find that there was Ink left on the Transfer paper after application ?

I have tested this it out with Glitter Inks where COLD peel is a must and I have concluded that for a perfect application results you need to rub with a cloth as it cools. Have you thry this with your Cold Peel Plastisol Transfers ?

With Hot Split/Peel Transfers there is no difference as thickness goes. They can be made just as Opque as Cold peel. 

Also, have you tried the Thick COLD peel pastisol transfers you are using (with or with out the so called Crystals) printed on Stretchy Fabric ? when you stretch the fabric, Do they Crack ? 

I appreciated the feed back Lou.
Almost finished here, with my research to do with plastisol.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Yes ther was paint still on the paper. have not tried to do the strechy test as I saw your test and going to stay away from ribbed material with that. did not do anything with the rub a cloth thing.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

badalou said:


> Yes ther was paint still on the paper. have not tried to do the strechy test as I saw your test and going to stay away from ribbed material with that. did not do anything with the rub a cloth thing.


i found that if you rub it as it cools you get more ink OFF the tansfer paper and on the shirt. It also makes the finished printed Transfer feel smoother and even, not bumpy. With COLD peel plastisol transfers.

Try it out Lou. "The Rub a Dub"  

Any feed back from transfer makers or screen printers that also make Plastisol Transfers ?


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

I can comment on first-editions transfers, because that is what I use. The cold peel with adhesive crystals is the way to go. The adhesive makes the ink stick the shirt perfectly every time. 

With hot peel, some of the ink is left on the paper, and is trickier to use than cold peel. With hot peel, the exact temp is more inportant. The adhesive makes it less of a science. It just works perfectly every time. for .10 its well worth the extra money, to avoid aggrivation.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

jdr8271 said:


> I can comment on first-editions transfers, because that is what I use. The cold peel with adhesive crystals is the way to go. The adhesive makes the ink stick the shirt perfectly every time.
> 
> With hot peel, some of the ink is left on the paper, and is trickier to use than cold peel. With hot peel, the exact temp is more inportant. The adhesive makes it less of a science. It just works perfectly every time. for .10 its well worth the extra money, to avoid aggrivation.


Thanks for the user end input Jon.

I have tested Hot Split/Peel Plastisol transfers and no ink is left on the paper and they too work every time. ( i can send you some of the samples i tryed if you want).

I guess my question is, why would companies like firstchoice and other transfer makers make them as Cold Peel and Not Hot Peel plastisol transfers ? is it the inks, equip., technique ?????

Since I know nothing about these "Crystals" beyond what David said and others. 
Do the crystals keep the transfer from Cracking when Stretched on RIB fabrics ?

Below are the samples of Hot Split/Peel Plastisol Transfers I tested.

copyright sickonsin.com



















some technical input from transfer makers or screen printers would be greatly appreciated since i cant understand why some many make them as COLD peel and NOT hot peel. (i know wildside makes them).


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> some technical input from transfer makers or screen printers would be greatly appreciated since i cant understand why some many make them as COLD peel and NOT hot peel


It could be that you're the only plastisol transfer printer on the forums, Lucy 

I guess a different question could be, why do some make them HOT peel and NOT cold peel. Does it really matter as long as the end transfer works?


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Rodney said:


> It could be that you're the only plastisol transfer printer on the forums, Lucy
> 
> I guess a different question could be, why do some make them HOT peel and NOT cold peel. Does it really matter as long as the end transfer works?


I guess you are right, no it dosent matter they basically look and feel the same, accept that hot split/peel apply alot quicker (4 times faster than cold peel) and hold up with the Stretch test.

If the process involved is the same (since no one has posted otherwise), why not make them as Hot Split/Peel Plastisol Transfers ?

may be someone will come along and explain why.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> I guess you are right, no it dosent matter they basically look and feel the same, accept that hot split/peel apply alot quicker (4 times faster than cold peel) and hold up with the Stretch test.


Just curious. Is the stretch test based on a real-world need? I don't see customers ever needing to stretch the t-shirts like that. Most plastisol will have some give to it if cured correctly (enough give for normal and abnormal wear and mis sizing). Even on ribbed fabrics.



> If the process involved is the same (since no one has posted otherwise), why not make them as Hot Split/Peel Plastisol Transfers ?


Not sure about this one, but maybe another plastisol transfer printer will come along and see this post and explain why they prefer one over the other. 

Maybe somebody could invite the folks from first-edition, who Jon said do the cold peel, to the forums


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

My hot-split transfers always leave ink on the paper...thats the whole point isnt it? The inks split during the transfer process. They work very well...never really had much learning curve pressing them either. The cold peel tansfer I described works as well but the feel of the print is very different than say screen printing or hot-split images. I think the wash care is different as well. My girlfriend liked the image...we tried it and it sold so we order them.


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

> My hot-split transfers always leave ink on the paper...thats the whole point isnt it? The inks split during the transfer process. They work very well...never really had much learning curve pressing them either. The cold peel tansfer I described works as well but the feel of the print is very different than say screen printing or hot-split images. I think the wash care is different as well. My girlfriend liked the image...we tried it and it sold so we order them.


Personally, I have not had good success with the hot peel plasticol transfers that I have used. Im not sure why. I have followed the instructions exactly, but all the ink doesnt transfer. The cold peel has always worked better for me.

The hot peel has a softer and stickier feel than the cold peel, whcih feels a little harder.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I think maybe hot-peel and hot-split plastisol transfers could be a different monkey altogether. Hot-split, splits the ink...and on the used transfer paper there is always an image left. I press medium pressure at 370-380 degrees for 8-10 seconds and it works perfect every time. Out of maybe 200 recent pressings of maybe 5 different companys stock images I had 2 less than perfect results. Like Lucy said....fast is what I dig about em...dont even think between pressings or wait on the press temp to be exact...just go go go.


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## Agotlib (Mar 10, 2006)

I am currently working with first-edition and was told if I want to print on dark shirts, they will need to make my transfers into a cold peel; otherwise the colors won't come through.

I hope this helps.

Aimee

PS - Can anyone tell me if they have experienced plastisol transfer cracking?
Is it too much heat/pressure?


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Agotlib said:


> I am currently working with first-edition and was told if I want to print on dark shirts, they will need to make my transfers into a cold peel; otherwise the colors won't come through.
> 
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Aimee


Aimee, thanks for the user end feedback.
Your comment is one of the reasons why I started this thread.
I honestly dont know why some companies would tell you that: 

"print on dark shirts, they will need to make my transfers into a cold peel; otherwise the colors won't come through"

You can get the same end result with hot peel transfer, have a look at my test example early on the thread.

so im begining to wonder why Cold Peel Plastisol transfers even exist.

One reason may be that in the event you need to print a 14x19 transfer as a 2 step on a 15x15 press, cold peel would make it easier then hot peel.

but beyond that, i have found no other explanation yet for the use of COLD peel transfers. 

Are they cheaper to make ?


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

> but beyond that, i have found no other explanation yet for the use of COLD peel transfers.


Because some people only buy the cold peel...like me


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## Agotlib (Mar 10, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> Are they cheaper to make ?


No, they are not. It costs 10 cents more per sheet.

I worked with Howards Sportswear before this, and they did my transfers in a hot peel and it worked really well with dark colors. The only reason I'm not going back to them is because of pricing. They are way too high and I have too many colors.

Hmm..Now you got me thinking...

Aimee


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

thanks everyone.

I Have learned a lot from your input.


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## Twinge (Apr 26, 2005)

I would wager a guess and say that it has to do with the inks the companies use; e.g. different companies use different inks, and have different "formulas" for what works for hot or cold transfers, how well they look on what colors, etc. I don't know for certain, though.

I'll note that the plastisol transfers that I've used from SMG are hot-peel and don't leave ink on the paper. They look fine on dark shirts, though we have had some problems with cracking after several (40+) washes, so I'll have to look at the adhesive crystal stuff and see if that works better.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Thanks Twinge. 

Again, thank you very much for all your help everyone.


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## htt117 (Aug 31, 2006)

Rodney said:


> Just curious. Is the stretch test based on a real-world need? I don't see customers ever needing to stretch the t-shirts like that. Most plastisol will have some give to it if cured correctly (enough give for normal and abnormal wear and mis sizing). Even on ribbed fabrics.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

> They look OK but you can't expect them to hold up for long.


Actually, you should be able to expect a plasticol transfer for to hold up for a pretty long time. Nothing is forever, but it should last pretty darn near that if done properly.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

jdr8271 said:


> htt117 said:
> 
> 
> > For the bachelorette party, one-time-use items, we do some transfers. They look OK but you can't expect them to hold up for long.
> ...


I think he'd be talking about digital transfers rather than plastisol transfers, since it'd be a short print-run short turn around item.


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## htt117 (Aug 31, 2006)

You are right. We are a traditional store front and we do these "custom" tees as a novelty. Most are digital prints using a C88+ epson printer, Transfer Jet II paper and Durabrite inks. A couple of washings on a baby ribbed tee will be too much, but that is not a problem for this particular use.

Even the Plastisol numbers have failed much sooner on ribbed materials than on traditional ring spun or jersey knit materials. These are the hot peel stock numbers from transfer express.

We tend to swallow our pride and offer a full range of products depending on our customers quality requirements (Read that as How much does he want to pay) We do digital picture transfers for the lowest end customers who want a novelty shirt (40th birthday, Anniversary party any special event sometimes even for family reunions, shirts for a scholl event or trade fair, church youth group outing etc.) We will go to First Edition or Transfer Express for a full color photo transfer if the need is for a longer lasting product. We can digitize and embroider something that is meant to be a display or more permanent gift. I guess it really comes down to matching customer's desires and wallets.

Changing topics slightly, Do the cold peel and hot peel materials perform differently when applied to mesh athletic jerseys. The hot peel numbers I use are prone to sinking into the holes or even adhering to the opposite side material with reversible jerseys. I put a teflon sheet inside to minimize this, but they still look less than perfect because of the hole pattern. Any suggestions?

I have aslo seen some "transfer" from the first number. I do one side of a reversible jersey. Turn it inside out and apply the second number. If the first number is left against the face of the shirt, I get some ink transfer onto that surface. If I increase time or temperature on the first number, the hole pattern is worse. Is this commen or am I missing something?

Jim


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

htt117 said:


> You are right. We are a traditional store front and we do these "custom" tees as a novelty. Most are digital prints using a C88+ epson printer, Transfer Jet II paper and Durabrite inks. A couple of washings on a baby ribbed tee will be too much, but that is not a problem for this particular use.
> 
> Even the Plastisol numbers have failed much sooner on ribbed materials than on traditional ring spun or jersey knit materials. These are the hot peel stock numbers from transfer express.
> 
> ...


Yes, you are way OFF topic.  
for mesh jerseys you need to use VINYL or other material transfer numbers etc.
Perhaps start a new thread so that some members can give you some tips etc..

This topic is not about digital transfers. Lets not get confused.

As for the stretch factor of plastisol transfers have a look at the photos early on posted.

Thanks for the user end input though.

Thanks everyone.


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## htt117 (Aug 31, 2006)

Title of the Thread is "Plastisol Transfers - Why Cold PeeL"

My question was about any difference in hot peel and cold peel Plastisol on polyester mesh jerseys. Directly on topic.

Your comment - as many of your previous ones have been - reflects a lack of experience. The jerseys I numbered came from a local soccer team. Their logo and names were imprinted at the manufacturer using hot peel type transfers. I have handled at least 6 other teams polyester or blend mesh jerseys that have been printed with differrent logos by at least three different companies, all using Plastisol transfers.

One of the major problems in any forum is people passing out information when they do not have the background to back-up their advice. Please contact Rodney if you have further comments about my posts and I will contact him about yours.

Jim


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## Twinge (Apr 26, 2005)

As far as the topic does go, though: I was expecting to see more of a difference in hot peel and cold peel as well. I'll toss out another theory as well that just came to mind - maybe hot peel didn't USED to work very well on darker shirts, so you'd want to go with cold peel for them in the past; but now ink technologies have advanced and they can do the job just as well? Don't know obviously, just a theory.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Twinge said:


> As far as the topic does go, though: I was expecting to see more of a difference in hot peel and cold peel as well. I'll toss out another theory as well that just came to mind - maybe hot peel didn't USED to work very well on darker shirts, so you'd want to go with cold peel for them in the past; but now ink technologies have advanced and they can do the job just as well? Don't know obviously, just a theory.


yep, you're on to something there.  

During the 90's and earlier (more or less), to print plastisol transfers on dark shirts you had to use COLD PEEL.

It could be something to do with the Inks/Equip./Technique etc.
But really, Hot peel for darks are used a lot our days "2006", I cant figure out why there are so few here that do use them, like Dave from MotoSkinGraphix uses them, you can make 200 shirts in 1/4 of the time. Most Brands I know use them with glue layer. NOT with the crystals glue "salt and pepper" style. 

Thanks for your Idea Twinge.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I get hot peel, simulated process(litho matt finish) and a couple cold peel all stock transfers. Favorite is hot peel for black or white shirts which is all we sell. The instructions do say a shorter dwell time on black shirts may produce a more opaque finish. All my dwell times for cold or hot are 8-12 seconds around 380 degrees. Those simulated process transfers from X-it are very nice. I wonder what they cost to produce and how the art needs to be rendered?

I think most sports team jerseys are done with vinyl. I think transfer express may offer both vinyl and plastisol for numbers but not sure.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Those simulated process transfers from X-it are very nice. I wonder what they cost to produce and how the art needs to be rendered?


Not sure how X-It makes them (I dont think Clarke will share that with you, may be, he is a nice Guy  Canadian too). 

David, are you talking about FULL color or SPOT color designs to print on all FABRIC colors ? (hot peel w/NO glitter inks.)

I may have an answer for you but need to know more...


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

hey, just realized another good reason to use COLD peel over HOT peel is when you are making collage type shirts. Yep, when you print on design over another. Buy doing cold peel with teflon, this will always leave the underneath design in good condition.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> Not sure how X-It makes them (I dont think Clarke will share that with you, may be, he is a nice Guy  Canadian too).
> 
> David, are you talking about FULL color or SPOT color designs to print on all FABRIC colors ? (hot peel w/NO glitter inks.)
> 
> I may have an answer for you but need to know more...


I am assuming they are matt finish litho transfers. they are full color and not spot. They have color blends and fine detail and shadows. Car transfers with some silly girl on them with a silly saying like high society or street demon...car show folks like them. The quality is outstanding on these hot peel transfers.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I am assuming they are matt finish litho transfers. they are full color and not spot. They have color blends and fine detail and shadows. Car transfers with some silly girl on them with a silly saying like high society or street demon...car show folks like them. The quality is outstanding on these hot peel transfers.


if I were to guess, it can may be done as a 4 color process with a little PUFF in the mix. Just a wild guess.  

I will go dig up the X-it catalog and have a look it.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> if I were to guess, it can may be done as a 4 color process with a little PUFF in the mix. Just a wild guess.
> 
> I will go dig up the X-it catalog and have a look it.


No puff...4 color simulated process matt finish litho transfers me thinks.


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## true genius (Jun 9, 2006)

How the heck do you get hot splits to look so crisp on dark colors? Mine sure don't look like this on darks? The shirt color really comes through.

First - Edition actually tells one (me anyway) that you need to double print the ink to get a crisper lighter ink color on darks. I don't really find that this makes too much of a difference for the extra cost and the ink actually bleeds a little. They charge an additional 1/2 price per color for their minimum order for double hot split. I do get a decent print on them. There price is also better than most, however, and their service is supurb. 

They also do not offer any adhesive for hot splits, only cold peels. I personally don't like the feel of cold peel, though the colors are much more crisp. 

T-Bot, would you PM me to give me info on where you got your hot splits - they look super crisp. I'd like the info to shop the prices.

Thanks!


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

true genius said:


> How the heck do you get hot splits to look so crisp on dark colors? Mine sure don't look like this on darks? The shirt color really comes through.
> 
> T-Bot, would you PM me to give me info on where you got your hot splits - they look super crisp. I'd like the info to shop the prices.
> 
> Thanks!


hi Tammy, will pm some info.

I find that every custom transfers job is different. One needs to account for various factors involved depending on what the client needs. The finish, on what garment they will be printing on and the Artwork detail.

So in order to give the client what they need and to ensure that quality and durability is great.... sometimes it will cost a little more but well worth it. Since you will be able to sleep at night knowing your prints are well done. 

This can be achieved with Hot peel transfers that are quick and easy to apply.


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> hi Tammy, will pm some info.
> 
> I find that every custom transfers job is different. One needs to account for various factors involved depending on what the client needs. The finish, on what garment they will be printing on and the Artwork detail.
> 
> ...


Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.

We picked up a job  that was previoiusly done by a screenprinter and need to simiulate as close as possible the look and feel. It will be a 4 color (red, orange, yellow, white) on a black Gildan Ultra shirt. I too am struggling with hot peel vs. cold peel from First Edition. 

Also, there is another job  coming up with 7 colors (including white) on a black shirt.

Thanks for any information you can share....


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

treadhead said:


> Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.
> 
> We picked up a job  that was previoiusly done by a screenprinter and need to simiulate as close as possible the look and feel. It will be a 4 color (red, orange, yellow, white) on a black Gildan Ultra shirt. I too am struggling with hot peel vs. cold peel from First Edition.
> 
> ...


sure thing.

I think FE should also be able to do these jobs.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.


There are lots of suppliers listed in this thread that should help you out. Many of them have hot peel 

Lucy works for a transfer maker, so if you need more info about their services, feel free to contact them directly via email or PM.


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## GSG (Feb 5, 2007)

From my view the cold peel transfer is the first and the originator of printed transfers the cold peel transfer when completely cooled down you pull and apply its alot thicker and also alot more opaque but the draw backs are once applied and worn a bit it tends to crack. Hot Peel when you peel the backing off it actually splits the ink in two and gives more of a direct print look not as thick as a cold peel but isnt as opaque so when applying to a 50/50 shirt you might get a little bleed through so thats why there are two different types of plastisol printed transfers.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

GSG said:


> Hot Peel when you peel the backing off it actually splits the ink in two.


thanks for the info Brandon.

Spit meaning it leaves ink on the release paper after it is applied on the shirt ?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Hot split transfers split the ink layer. Hot peel transfers are like cold peel transfers except one is peeled hot and the other cold.

There are hot split transfers done with opaque ink and printing techniques that allow them to be printed on any color shirt with no bleed through.

Why cold peel at all...probably its where many plastisol transfer makers started and perfected the craft. I kind of see it as a safety net for custom order customers. The technique certainly isnt cutting edge transfer printing technology compared to some of the hot-split and hot-peel transfers we have used from the better known print houses. I also think price plays a role in trying to grab the low end market share meaning small order folks. The more established cutting edge printers have many more types of transfer techniques than the basic three mentioned. These companys have the money experience and equipment to push the new developments in plastisol production. They arent worried about the 25pc one color order...they have moved beyond that customer.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> These companys have the money experience and equipment to push the new developments in plastisol production. They arent worried about the 25pc one color order...they have moved beyond that customer.


 
It's NOT really the Low 25 pc. order. It's the time and effort it takes to create Plastisol Transfers that are really CUSTOM made for the client's needs.

to do with HoT PEEL/SPlit transfers.


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## GSG (Feb 5, 2007)

perfect explenation on plastisol transfers couldnt said it better myself bottom line hot peel is the only way too goo


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

GSG said:


> perfect explenation on plastisol transfers couldnt said it better myself bottom line hot peel is the only way too goo


glad you agree Hot Peels are do bomb.  

but

I do see COLD PEELS as safe way to sell plastisol transfer to the home user for sure. 

I don't Know of 1 single major brand that uses COLD PEEL our days. It's all Hot Peel and has been for a few years now.

Anyone making Hot Peel 4 color process Glitter transfers or are they still all COLD Peel ?


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

I have a question. I just recently placed in order with a certain company (don't know if i'm allowed to mention names) and they said since my design had thin line detail, i should go with crystal back/cold peel. I'm printing on black shirts only, and my designs are white with black outline. After i pressed my first shirt, using there directions, the image didn't fully stick to the shirt. so the next day i amped up the heat, and added more pressure, the image seems like it stuck way better, but on most of the image, the ends seem like if you pick and scratch at them, they start to peel off. How can i solve this problem? Should i amp up the heat and pressure even more? And by the way, i did the rub a dub technique after it was pressed as well. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MWK said:


> I have a question. .....on most of the image, the ends seem like if you pick and scratch at them, they start to peel off. How can i solve this problem?
> 
> SOMEONE PLEASE HELP


Hi Matt,

off the top, Im not an expert in the transfer biz cause i've been out of it for a little while now (the guy i did worked for retired...long story.) 

but, i don't think much more can be done now in your case. Considering you are using the correct application settings etc...and they continue to rub off as you scratch them with your thumb.

it sounds like the transfers you had made are just your *basic* plastisol transfers. Nothing wrong with that but it really depends on what finish look and quality you are aiming at. 

Perhaps try some altermatives, like re-press with a teflon sheet. That should get the loose ends of your graphic transfer to stick. 


footnote:

Most transfers makers can offer you the basic or other types that usually involve some additional work. Like adding the good old *GLUE*  or expert screen burning for high detail graphics (thin lines etc.) 

just to name a few companies that for sure can do this work are, people like Airwaves, The wildside, and yes transfer express and others can achieve great transfers that are quick and easy to apply and ARE 5 star quality. 

here is a sample of a small 3" wide logo with a thin tiny black line outline that prints on all color shirts and perfect every time.

[media]http://www.spot98.net/custom/img/1-RED-STRIPE-500.jpg[/media]

another, but its larger : 

[media]http://www.spot98.net/custom/img/1-SPOT98HD-500.jpg[/media]



to make a long post short, i'm sorry to say but the transfers you had done are not the best quality. 


...sorry 

give the re-press a try with the teflon for a fix... it should work. But you will need to COLD PEEL with the teflon. Let me warn you that re-pressing with teflon will (in most cases) make the finished printed graphic plastisol transfer more *glossy*...shinny like....until you wash it


god bless.



:


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

Thanx for that info, and links. i'll jot those down. I think i'll try re-pressing with the teflon sheets first. I kinda had an idea i mite need to do that. Man why can't every company do 5 star work, what's with this half assen?


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

Oh and i'll upload a pic of the shirt tomorrow, i'm tired now and going to bed, i've been up for almost 24 hours now, and i need to recharge  thanx again


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

MWK said:


> Oh and i'll upload a pic of the shirt tomorrow, i'm tired now and going to bed, i've been up for almost 24 hours now, and i need to recharge  thanx again


matt, this is Lou, your mentor.. Give me a call. Did you pre press the shirt?


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

Of course , and pre-heated the bottom pallete, but janette got ahold of me, and said maybe i didn't heat the bottom pallete ENOUGH. and they also brought up the topic of why they did 2 colors instead of one, they said that some of the lines in my design were thin, and that if they did white only, it was going to be possible that the white bled together. and that's what i figured when they suggested the 2 color. where can i get ahold of some of those teflon sheets, so i can press them again.


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

Here's a pic of my shirt, bad quality i know, but my camera wouldn't let me take a clean close up picture.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

MWK said:


> Of course , and pre-heated the bottom pallete, but janette got ahold of me, and said maybe i didn't heat the bottom pallete ENOUGH. and they also brought up the topic of why they did 2 colors instead of one, they said that some of the lines in my design were thin, and that if they did white only, it was going to be possible that the white bled together. and that's what i figured when they suggested the 2 color. where can i get ahold of some of those teflon sheets, so i can press them again.


I talked to Ace for you (Dave) and that is what he told me as well. I will PM you on the teflon. Lou


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

yeah she told me that dave asked her to call me, cuz you had called and was wondering, thanks for that.


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## MWK (Aug 2, 2008)

Alright!!! Thanks again Lou, just got my EZ off, cleaned my pallet like a charm, no more crystal outline  and what a great LOW price on those teflon sheets, cheapest i've came into contact with! Now i can get back to pressin like a madman


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Ooohhh...preheating the bottom platon is just a stupid excuse. If you do a moisture removal you are fine. The print either works or it doesnt and if it doesnt its the manufactures problem. Dont settle for mistakes because they happen all the time. A custom ordered transfer in plastisol should press perfectly...if it doesnt and you know what you are doing...they screwed up period!!!!


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## ExpressiveForce (Sep 22, 2016)

I wonder if the concern is that the end user will either not peel the paper fast enough or that they may burn there hand if they do.


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