# DTG Printing And Fibrillation on light color



## willkho (Aug 11, 2009)

Hi again all,

I'm running a dtg printer (viper) and have a problem with fibrillation after wash.

I don't have a problem with fibrillation when printing, I followed all the method such as use brush,etc etc and I managed to get a good print (thanks to this forum).

However, the fibrillation is quite terrible after the wash and only on light color or white.

I'm wondering any technique or method to stop the fibrillation after wash?

At the moment, I'm printing the white with 720 x 720 2 passess.

I believe I shouldn't go more since it will change/mismatch the color, right?

Please help. And Thanks in advance


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

What is your cure times, times, pressure settings?

Paper or teflon


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Also, could be the brand of shirt... type of cotton (ring spun, combed,...) as well. Try a different brand of garment and see if you get the same results.

Mark


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## willkho (Aug 11, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, C and Mark.

I used paper for light color/white tee.
The pressure is quite light, I think level 2 (Hotronix press), 170C/338F, 90seconds.

I don't really know about the cotton type, i will check it out.
Which one is better for DTG? Cotton or ring spun?


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

go to a ringspun shirt rather than combed cotton. 

pretreat

press heavy on the pretreat 

then print and it will be much better.


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## FatKat Printz (Dec 26, 2008)

willkho said:


> The pressure is quite light, I think level 2 (Hotronix press), 170C/338F, 90seconds.
> 
> I don't really know about the cotton type, i will check it out.
> Which one is better for DTG? Cotton or ring spun?


What kind of shirt is it?? 

Pre press for 10 seconds full pressure (let out humidity)

if you are pre-treating light shirts

Cure full pressure preferably with a Teflon Sheet for 60 seconds
to cure the pretreat 

After print :

- light pressure (no paper) make sure it doesn't touch the shirt

- 1st full pressure press w/ paper for 60 seconds
- 2nd full pressure press w/ paper for 60 seconds


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## willkho (Aug 11, 2009)

All right guys.

I decided to give ring spun tee a go.

I would to try Hanes/Gildan.

Any idea which brand better and which type should I get for each brand??


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

willkho said:


> All right guys.
> 
> I decided to give ring spun tee a go.
> 
> ...


Ring Spun is nice but if you want to save money, Gildan 2000/Anvil 979 6.10z are just fine. If you have customer who doesn't want to pay the Hanes and Gildan ring spun prices. Honestly, I don't prefer Hanes I feel its more of a brand name than a real quality shirt after the fact, meaning its nice after the print but the longevity isn't there as much as the other brands I have seen. 


Tultex ring spun from Tultex are affordable and print very well is more of a junior size shirt. If you are able I would just get 1 white and 1 color of the following:

Gildan 2000
Anvil 979
Gildan 6400 (Softstyle)
Anvil 980 (Combed Ring Spun)
Tultex 0202

Note, the weight difference so byte (bite) is very important to make sure the print is going to hold up. The byte is basically turning the shirt inside out and seeing the print (not dripping thru) but at least some detail to show that your pressure,print and pretreat is taking the print.


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## willkho (Aug 11, 2009)

dazzabling said:


> Note, the weight difference so byte (bite) is very important to make sure the print is going to hold up. The byte is basically turning the shirt inside out and seeing the print (not dripping thru) but at least some detail to show that your pressure,print and pretreat is taking the print.


Hi C,

Thanks for the info.
Can you please explain more about the byte/bite thingy?
Especially the inside out part.


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## dazzabling (Sep 21, 2011)

Basically, you would think if the color seeped through when turned inside out it would be a bad thing. I am not talking seeping through (soaking wet to where its hitting the back of the shirt) just the front inside. There should be some decent amount of design on the front inside. Since you are doing DTG, you want your shirt to take in the ink and the better the bite (fancier saying byte..lol) the more its gonna hold up in the wash, last longer and happier customers.

I thought it was crazy first time I hear it, but haven't testing several shirts, wash tests and customer feedback. The byte proved to be the best way to tell. Now, it is a skill and takes practice since you have to learn it on light colors and dark colors. But fibrillation really has nothing to do with the type of shirt you are using. 

Proper pretreat, proper pressures and proper ink (ink makes a huge difference) we have been able to DTG 6.1oz down to 4.5 oz ring spun, preshrunk, heavy cotton, ultra cotton, burnouts and fibrillation has never been a problem.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

AA shirts are the best for dtg printing.


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## mmoguls (Mar 9, 2009)

binki said:


> AA shirts are the best for dtg printing.


Don't you find the white ones way too "fuzzy"? Or do you press everything before you print?


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## willkho (Aug 11, 2009)

Hey again all,

I ordered some ring spun to test.

I'm wondering whether higher or lower GSM is better for light color DTG printing?


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

we pretreat everything we dtg print so for the American Apparel shirts, we pretreat with light pretreatment spray and the fibers lay down.


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## mmoguls (Mar 9, 2009)

binki said:


> we pretreat everything we dtg print so for the American Apparel shirts, we pretreat with light pretreatment spray and the fibers lay down.


 
How does that factor into your price per shirt? I find pre-treat adds 2 minutes to the time per shirt, per side. So pre-treating white on 40 shirts adds an hour plus, per side. How do you compensate for this? What do you charge on white shirts vs. color/darks? I'm contemplating using the light pre-treat also, but the time really goes up...

Thanks for your insight on this.


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