# Dryer time/temp question



## WFOAssassin (Nov 2, 2019)

I am new and am learning every day. This is my first post however I have been anonymously stalking the forum for a while. Thanks for all the help! I have had a few small jobs but I want to get it just right before I start really cranking it up.... I have an imminent order of 100 shirts because I was convinced (and convinced them) I could do it... I can and will but I have a few questions first. 

How long does the ink need to be at or around 320 degrees? Not including low cure inks, etc. 

I have a little older Vastex DB-30, single phase, electric dryer. I can adjust height of the element and speed of the belt. The guy I got it from, who I trust, said to leave the element and adjust speed to "12." I feel like I am moving the belt too fast and not curing them all the way OR when I slow it down they "burn," all the moisture is removed and they rip easy if that makes sense. 

I should probably slow the belt and raise the element but I want to make sure. I have heard anywhere from 60 sec at 320 degrees to as long as it its the 320 mark all the way through, no matter how long it even 1 second, its good. I have recently bought the heat test strips to help me determine the exact temp as I do this but I want to make sure I hit the right speed. 

Right now I can reach temps over 450 on the garment which I think is horrible. I either speed it up too fast or slow it down too much.Thanks in advance.


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## reximages (Apr 3, 2010)

20 seconds or a few more seconds at 340 degrees and about 2.5 inches above the garment in the tunnel should do the trick.
I have slowed the belt to the point where the garment is under the heat element in the tunnel for about 32 seconds and the surface temp of the garment/plastisol image is around 365 degrees. My tunnel has an 18" x 24" heating element. The dryer is a Vastex Econred 1. It was purchased new in 2015.
The images on my jobs have been passing the stretch test.
I just did a white plastisol on Black T-shirts this afternoon.


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## WFOAssassin (Nov 2, 2019)

I guess the issue I have is the element heats up well over 500 degrees, my heat gun reads "HI" so the surface of the garment goes way above 350 and into the 400 range. The element is maybe 3in above now but can go up to 6-8in I think. But 20sec at 340 is a good starting point to figure out the right settings. Thanks.


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## reximages (Apr 3, 2010)

The heat setting reads digital at 690 and we get the desired end result...with the settings described in my previous post.


I have had to replace the relay switch in the control box twice since we bought the dryer. If the relay switch is burned out the heating element will soar to over 1000 degrees on our dryer, which means that it is time to replace the relay switch. 



Does your machine have an issue with staying on the same temperature that you set it at?


You don't want to go over 400 degrees on the surface temp of the shirts coming through the dryer.


We got our relay switch part from Grainger for about $20, and, it is easy to install.


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## WFOAssassin (Nov 2, 2019)

There is no temperature setting on the dryer. It goes on and off.


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## RMS SPORTSMAN (Nov 11, 2019)

If you're working with plastisol ink then all you need is for the ink (not the garment) to reach 320.. 20 seconds will do the trick. Sometimes the dryer reading itself is not always exact. You can pick up a temp gun. Try to get one with the lazers. This will make it much easier for aim at the ink while approaching the middle/end of the belt. Also you can pick up the heat tabs that you can place directly onto the shirt before sending it down the convoy belt. These will change color to let you know if the ink is properly cured. Hope this was helpful..
Another good idea is to tell your customers not the wash or dry but garment for at least Forty-Eight Hours after it being printed.. (wash inside out too) this will prevent the ink from washing out. 👍🏻 Good luck


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