# Jet-Pro SofStretch (inkjet heat transfer paper) vs Plotter Test - with pictures!



## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Okay, I've got my file set up, and tomorrow when I wake up I'm FINALLY going to do my test with Jet-Pro SofStretch and our plotter.

I'll take pics and explain the process I use fully for other people to learn the process of using inkjet transfers and a vinyl cutter to your advantage.

Then I'll do wash tests and post them in this thread. I'm going to wash what I transfer tomorrow in HOT water and dry on HIGH heat. I'm'a gonna put this paper through the ringers because I just KNOW not all customers follow care instructions!

I'd have waited to post this thread until I actually had something, but it seems I need the motivation to actually get this done.

Watch this space tomorrow (Saturday) for more!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Hi Chani! This is the post I've been waiting for and asking for! If I wasn't so darn tired tonight, I'm pretty sure the anticipation of your post tomorrow would keep me up all night!  Please don't wait until the wash tests are done to start posting on your experience cutting with the plotter and pressing! I just don't know if I can wait that long! LOL... 

OK, now that you know that I'm so eagerly anticipating this post, the pressure is REALLY on for you to follow through tomorrow!  

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Yes, it is! 

I also need to do my plotter vs IronAll for Darks test, but one thing at a time. I still need to come up with a suitable image for that test.

The test I'll do tomorrow will be a VERY complex cut and press. I'll be cutting a contour around letters and shapes to give as LITTLE blank transfer as possible, and using Magic Mask (which is necessary for transfers for lights anyway). We'll see how this paper handles those cuts. If it's going to flake, this is where it will do it. 

Don't worry, I'll take pics and post them as soon as I'm done transferring, then post wash tests as I do them.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

And now the moment several of you have been waiting for! 

(Rodney and mods, I guess I put this in the wrong forum...maybe it should be in the Vinyl Cutters forum, not Heat Transfers...up to you.  )

I just got done printing, cutting, weeding, and pressing my test shirt. 

This is the design I transfered using Jet-Pro SofStretch:










Notice that I created this design the right way, then IN MY SOFTWARE I mirrored it. The reason for this is mirroring your contour lines in your plotter software can have unexpected results, especially for a design that's cut in landscape.

The I printed this design (again, DON'T mirror in your printer setup...mirror it IN YOUR SOFTAWARE) with my C88+ with DURABrite pigment inks, then placed it on Magic Mask from Stahls.










Notice the space at the top of this page. I actually didn't need it for this one because of the Magic Mask, but for opaque transfers where you don't use a carrier sheet, it's necessary because of the space between your pinch rollers and your blade.

Then I loaded it in my plotter, putting the pinch rollers on the Magic Mask, not on the transfer. When loading your transfer, MAKE SURE you put your pinch rollers OUTSIDE of your registration marks, or you will get an error.

I cut at 25 cm/s and 140 gm downforce with a 60 degree blade.

Here are the contour curves:










Here's the cut and weeded design:










Then I pressed.

Something slightly unexpected happened when I pressed this shirt. I pressed it with the Magic Mask in place to hold all the individual elements of this transfer in their proper places. Well, when I lifted my heat press' upper platten and peeled the Magic Mask (remember to PEEL HOT), the backing paper of the JPSS styed in place! I went on a mad rush to peel all the individual elements' backing paper off. Thankfully I got it all off before it cooled too much. 

Here's the pressed shirt:










And a closeup:










My overall imressions are that I'm VERY impressed with this paper! It cut with absolutely NO problems. No flaking what-so-ever. It also weeded very easily.

You CAN feel the transfer on the shirt, but it's not offensive at all. We'll see how it feels once I wash this shirt.

You can BARELY see where the polymer ends and where the shirt begins, but only when you REALLY get up close to the design.

Okay, now I need to do wash tests! Remember, I'll be washing in HOT water and drying on HIGH heat. I also WON'T be turning it inside out.


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## amv101 (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Shirt looks good, nice design concept. I also tried Magic Mask and it seems to be useless. Seems good for regular vinyl tho.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Useless??? How so?

It was just a minor miscalculation on my part. I was thinking that the Magic Mask would lift off the JPSS backing paper. It didn't. It still worked well.

Without Magic Mask, this whole shirt wouldn't have been possible without a large polymer area.


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

That was a great presentation Chani, its a great testimony for the product so far and it shows the great capabilities of your Graphtec Ce5000-60!! (a lot of greats sorry)

R.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

I only use transfer mask when doing dark transfer paper (that needs to be laid down face up) and I need to keep the spacing. Since your design is mirrored, I am assuming you are using a light transfer paper. If so, I am not sure if you even need to use the transfer mask. The paper backing of the paper should keep the paper of the transfer paper with your graphic on it in placed and spaced out.

Of course, I might be missing something completely. I have heard that the SubliDark paper you print mirror image and the graphic actually goes through the polymer and faces forwarded after you press. But that is the only paper I have heard done this way.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Thanks, Roger. 

I just hope it helps someone.

You DO NOT need that large polymer window on your transfers, and cutting a design like this would have been very time-consuming with scissors or an Xacto knife. 

I hope it's everything you were hoping for, Melissa!


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*



DAGuide said:


> I only use transfer mask when doing dark transfer paper (that needs to be laid down face up) and I need to keep the spacing. Since your design is mirrored, I am assuming you are using a light transfer paper. If so, I am not sure if you even need to use the transfer mask. The paper backing of the paper should keep the paper of the transfer paper with your graphic on it in placed and spaced out.
> 
> Of course, I might be missing something completely. I have heard that the SubliDark paper you print mirror image and the graphic actually goes through the polymer and faces forwarded after you press. But that is the only paper I have heard done this way.


Huh. Well, I wasn't aware that the JPSS was able to weed like this. The IronAll for lights CANNOT be weeded without cutting through the backer.

Even I learned something with this! 

But...using the Magic Mask also allowed me to have a larger design on the 8.5x11 sheet, because your design needs to be completely within the reg marks and your pinch rollers need to be outside of your reg marks. 

I still prefer to do it this way for this paper, but it's good to know that you CAN weed this paper.  Just another advantage of Jet-Pro SofStretch!

But...other than the Magic Mask, everything else remains the same. 

Now I need to do a test with IronAll for Darks.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Maybe we are talking about two different things. I know some distributors call two different things Magic Mask. If it is a hard carrier sheet that goes under the piece of transfer paper (not on top of it), then your way is correct. If you are using a transfer mask that goes on top of the printed transfer, than you should only need to put the mask on for dark papers. It is also hard because there are so many types of transfer paper that are private labeled under different names.

The best way to determine if a paper is weedable is to take a scrap piece and try to tear it very slowly. If you are able to separate the polymer from the backing, then it is weedable and you should not need a carrier sheet (unless you want to expand your cuttable area as mentioned above). If you can't separate them, then you can use the carrier sheet. I have seen one non-weedable paper that the backing came off with the carrier sheet. Did you use a new sheet of carrier or was it one that some of the tack was wearing down on?


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Here is a good thought I came up with while doing laundry. I have one of the fancy high speed, energy efficient washers and I have to use detergent with the little "HE" logo on the bottle. How cool would it be to have a logo for weedable transfer paper that you don't need carrier mask for? Then the manufacturers / distributors could put that logo on the papers that it would apply. That would make life so much easier for everyone. Might need a company like Roland with some real power to help push this through. But I like the concept.


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## amv101 (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

It seems Magic Mask works good as a carrier sheet, or a backing sheet for cutting through a whole piece of paper, where the paper isnt 2 ply, or weedable. But for an actual transfer mask, I cant seem to get it to "stick" to any of my opaque papers, and in the past 3 weeks I have tried about 5 different brands. The masking tape material, transfer mask, seems to work much better, for this purpose.

And if the paper is weedable, 2 ply, you can cut some strips of construction paper, tape them to the edges, and that would work too.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Yup, the tape method would work, too, for extending your sheet size for your pinch rollers, but it's much easier to just slap your transfer down on a carrier sheet like Magic Mask. 

And, yes, Mark, this Magic Mask is a carrier sheet that goes UNDER your transfer when you're cutting it. It also works as transfer tape for opaques, too. I've used it both ways. 

amv101, what I did for the opaque transfer I did a while back was to cut the transfer, then apply the Magic Mask to the whole sheet before weeding. Then I peeled the backing sheet off, then weeded the design areas, and that seemed to work well for me. You don't use it like sign vinyl transfer tape where it lifts just your design off. It's similar, but not exact.


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## amv101 (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*



Chani said:


> Yup, the tape method would work, too, for extending your sheet size for your pinch rollers, but it's much easier to just slap your transfer down on a carrier sheet like Magic Mask.
> 
> And, yes, Mark, this Magic Mask is a carrier sheet that goes UNDER your transfer when you're cutting it. It also works as transfer tape for opaques, too. I've used it both ways.
> 
> amv101, what I did for the opaque transfer I did a while back was to cut the transfer, then apply the Magic Mask to the whole sheet before weeding. Then I peeled the backing sheet off, then weeded the design areas, and that seemed to work well for me. You don't use it like sign vinyl transfer tape where it lifts just your design off. It's similar, but not exact.


Yah I tried to do the same thing, like a reverse weed, but the paper i used left white specs on the magic mask, where the weeded areas are. And those spots transfered to the garment. Not to mention the transfer mask is cheaper and seems to work. I also switched the brand of transfer paper and it seems all good now


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Great post Chani! This was helpful, and you get a good job of explaining it. Maybe this might put you in the running for M.H.M or at least the title "Female Lou" (without the gotee I hope  )


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Hahaha! 

Yeah, I think I'll shave my gotee if I win that title.  

And thanks!  I just hope it was informative. A few people have been asking me for this for a while, and I just needed to get it done.

I'm contracting my dad to do the wash tests. I don't want to have to pay $2.75 to wash and dry this shirt for 15 washes. 

Next is my IronAll for Darks test. Hopefully I'll get to that in the next week or so. I'd use this design, but you can't have the drop shadow effect on a black shirt. At least, not like this one is.  I'll come up with something.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Chani, my friend, EXCELLENT JOB!!! It was everything and more that I've been waiting for! Good to know that the plotter will work with JPSS paper!

As far as the wash tests, I'm interested to see how it goes. I have done a few shirts with JPSS, but apparently, they're so cherished, that they don't get worn/washed often! LOL... One was for my brother-in-law whom I saw this afternoon. He said he completely forgot that it was a "man-made shirt" and just threw it right-side-out in their commercial washers with hot water and then in the commercial dryer, also on hot. (Those machines are responsible for ruining a lot of his clothes because of the intense heat) He said he realized what he had done after his wash was finished, and checked it in a panic -- but the shirt was in perfect condition! Said the colors were still great too! It was good to know.

So, since the whole plotter thing is new to me, it was interesting to read about the Magic Mask and the transfer tape. Long story short, would you HAVE to use the Magic Mask with the JPSS or can you just cut and weed it (although the print would have to be smaller from what I understand, right?) without using MM or the tape?

You use the Craft Robo PRO, right? Could I do the same type of thing with just the Craft Robo? I'm running into a slight lack-of-funds problem since my husband was just laid off, but my birthday IS coming next month!  

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS!! I would nominate you for the MHM designation when it comes to your expertise with cutters/plotters, that's for sure! I'm looking forward to hearing about your IronAll for Darks test next! It's just a shame we don't have all this on video! Guess this is something else for you to consider!  

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Thank you, Melissa. 

I did do one wash today. I added this shirt to a load with five old pairs of bluejeans.

The color faded a little, but it's still pretty acceptable.

It lost almost all of it's texture on the shirt. I can't feel the transition from the design to shirt, and I can BARELY feel a difference between the center of the design and the t-shirt itself. 

Like I said, it faded some, but I have a feeling that the color that IS there now is locked in and won't wash out anymore in subsequent washes. At least, not substantially.

One problem. I could barely see the edge of the transfer at the edges of the dropshadow before I washed this shirt, but now it's pretty apparent. I'm not sure if some of the ink migrated or what, but I think I'll avoid dropshadows from now on.

I'll take pics tomorrow when the lighting conditions are the same.

As for IronAll for Darks...I'm on my third sheet with no luck so far, but I'm not giving up!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

'migrated' huh? Wow, I'll be interested to see the photos. I'm actually impressed that your gray shadow actually STAYED gray -- with the Epson ink carts, mine turned GREEN after pressing! Had a lot of problems with the yellow pervading everything in sight too! Just switched to refillable carts with heat transfer ink, but having problems getting them to work... ugggh! I think I've run into every problem possible in this industry, and I'm still a newbie! The learning curve is quite steep...

Thanks again Chani! Sorry to hear about the IronAll for Darks, but if ANYONE can figure it out, you can!  

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Thanks, Melissa! 

Actually, the grey DID turn green, but it didn't come through in the pics all that well. But that cleared up in the wash, too. It's grey now. 

I need to look back at the IronAll for Darks thread to see what someone else used for their plotter settings, but I'm not going to follow those particular settings...well, not at first, anyway.

I'll keep everyone updated on that, and if I get it I'll post a thread.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*



Chani said:


> Thanks, Melissa!
> 
> Actually, the grey DID turn green, but it didn't come through in the pics all that well. But that cleared up in the wash, too. It's grey now.
> 
> ...


If I remember correctly (and I doubt I will because I don't know too much about plotters), they said 45 degree blade, cutting at 50 or 60 pounds? Does that sound even remotely close? Like I said, I don't know ANYTHING about cutting...


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Chani -- just thought of something. Maybe you had a little fading because you printed, cut, pressed and washed right away instead of waiting 24 hours? I read that some where -- not to wash for 24 hours after...

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*



Chani said:


> Actually, the grey DID turn green, but it didn't come through in the pics all that well. But that cleared up in the wash, too. It's grey now.


I've got a problem with that, though -- how do you give a customer their shirt and say, "I know it LOOKS green now, but once you wash it, it will be GRAY?"


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

That IS a problem...you don't want to sell something to a customer and tell them that "it will look right when you wash it." Not good business.

So before I offer any shirts for sale I'll be buying a bulk ink system with inkjet transfer inks meant to withstand the high temperatures of pressing.

And you got me there. I washed well before a full 24 hours, so I won't post a picture of that shirt. I'll make another one, let it sit for 24 hours, and wash that. Thank you. I'm not perfect, y'know.  Maybe there won't be as much fading, either. 

And after second thought, I'll start where that other person did with their plotter settings and work from there. The thing that I don't think ever got answered there was if anyone had done a COMPLEX cut with IronAll instead of just a box or circle. I could be wrong, tho.

Anyway, I can't do those tests today. I'm too busy today. 

I also forgot one thing in my original post here, and I'll go back and edit it: I used a 60 degree blade on the JPSS.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Hi Chani I wait 24 hours before washing and I have no problem with fading I have shirt that I will post it has been washed now 25 times


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

Yeah, wasn't it you that posted your 15-wash test? I was very impressed! I just want to see it for myself.  It's not that I don't trust others. I just need to do my own tests. 

If you could post your 25-wash test, I'd be greatful! 

Thanks!


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

yes it was me when Lou frist talk about it I got some and liked it after checking other papers this was the one I stay with now ok I will do later I am going to show the original pic and the shirt as will


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

That would be great! If I didn't live in an apartment building with expensive wash and dry cycles I'd do the same thing. As it is I need to have my dad do it at his house (with MY old washer and dryer from when I did own a home, no less  ).


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I noticed something with the transfer I did today...

The last one I did, when I pressed it, the grey areas turned a little green (known problem with DURABrite inks), but with the one that I PRINTED yesterday and PRESSED today, the ink didn't turn...

When I washed the other one the grey areas went grey again, but it's pretty hard to tell a customer that the colors will correct themselves when you wash it.

Has anyone else come up with this result?

BTW, is it more important to wait 24 hours after you PRINT your transfer before you wash it, or 24 hours after you PRESS it?


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Chani 24 hours after you press it then wash and I have shirts thet never went back to grey stayed green I did 150 shirts and it stayed green now I have ty do 70 more and hope the will trun out green LOL


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

That's what I thought. 24 hours after pressing. But I did find it interesting that the grey didn't turn green on this one.

I know you said that these transfers are worth using in a commercial setting, but I'm still waiting to see what this shirt will look like on Thursday when I wash it before I make my final decision.

While the shirt that I washed a few hours after pressing still looks nice, it did fade a bit, so I need to see the 24 hour shirt for myself. I'm hoping I get the same result that you did. 

That said, if I do decide to use these commercially, I'll be getting a CIS with heat-pressing inks. The DURABrite inks just don't seem to be up to the task.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Chani dont buy cheap when it comes CIS get good one I just learned the hard way I am going to get one like Lou has I think that would be the best way to go I just spent $56.00 dolors becouse in middle of A job LOL


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Oh, don't worry. I'll get a quality CIS and use top-notch inks.

I'll wait until I get a wide(r)-format printer so that I can do 11x17 transfers before I buy a CIS. I don't want to waste the money on one for my C88+.

I'd like to get an Epson 1400 and a good CIS for that, but I'm not sure where I'd go for it yet. I'll find out when I'm closer to buying.  I'm leaning toward the 1400 because it's only $275 for a refurb through Epson where an 1800 is $350.

If there's another printer I should be looking at I'll definitely listen.


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## pitifulnewbie (Jan 30, 2008)

Can someone explain to me, slowly, what Chani did?

My view on this is...

Design a graphic
Invert the graphic using the software
Print it out on a NORMAL (household) printer, but onto JetProSoftStretch transfer paper, and using some fancy ink.
Cut the excess transfer paper from around the design (Chani used a plotter but a hobby enthusiast could cut around by hand)
Place the design directly onto the shirt
Put some sort of sheet between the transfer and the heat press plate
Press 

Am I missing something? By the way, I don't mean to sound grouchy, it's first thing in the morning and I am a newbie!
I just want to be able to press my own designs with as little fuss as possible.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

pitifulnewbie said:


> Design a graphic


Yep.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Invert the graphic using the software


Yep.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Print it out on a NORMAL (household) printer, but onto JetProSoftStretch transfer paper, and using some fancy ink.


Kind of. Not any printer will do. The best kind use "Pigment" inks. A lot of Epson brand printers use pigment ink, but not all. Durabrite is a common Epson ink. I believe that some HPs might use pigment.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Cut the excess transfer paper from around the design (Chani used a plotter but a hobby enthusiast could cut around by hand)


True, but the main point of this thread was to focus on the use a plotter and her results with it.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Place the design directly onto the shirt


Yep.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Put some sort of sheet between the transfer and the heat press plate


You could, don't have to, but it doesn't hurt.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Press


Yep.


pitifulnewbie said:


> Am I missing something?


Nope.


pitifulnewbie said:


> By the way, I don't mean to sound grouchy, it's first thing in the morning and I am a newbie!


That's no excuse.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Yep, Robert got it right. 

One another note, I finally got quarters to do laundry yesterday and washed the second shirt that I pressed. This time I waited for at least 24 hours, and the result was MORE than acceptable! Less fading (tho there was a TINY bit), and the ink didn't run, so the drop shadow looks good. 

Again, I went against the directions deliberately and washed it in HOT water and dried on HIGH heat. Not all of your customers are going to follow wash instructions. 

Coming from a skeptic, I give this paper two thumbs up! (wait, is that term trademarked.   )

I also realized that I REALLY wasn't thinking when I washed the first one...that running ink may not have been from the transfer at all. We also washed a brand-new navy blue sweatshirt with that load. That may have been the problem with the drop shadow on the last one.


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## pitifulnewbie (Jan 30, 2008)

Thanks to Robert and Chani.

Also, can you recommend a 'hobby' press to me?
I don't want to pay loads of money for a machine that I intend to use sparingly and only for small(ish) t-shirt designs.

I am based in the UK, so I am not really looking to import a press due to monstrous postage costs i would imagine.

All I shall be doing is buying a press, buying some JPSS transfer paper, buying some pigment ink, and then getting a few different colour shirts (30) to play with.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I wish I there was a "hobby" press that I could recommend. You might want to check the thread about buying a "Cheap" heat press, but I think all of those are from American companies. 

One press I would recommend that you NOT get is the WOODEN heat press. Yes, it's cheap, and yes, it's cheap, but you won't be happy with that one if you get it. I'm sorry, I don't remember what it's called, but if you see a wood heat press, DON'T BUY IT!

Sorry I can't help you more.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

I have a Hix 15" swing arm that is good. I don't know if you can only get them here. The 15" is not a bad size, but I would not go any smaller (9x12). One option is to go to t-shirt shops in your area and see if they want to sell a used one.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

hi Chani I will have the new paper on monday SELF WEEDING HEAT TRANSFER PAPER would like to know if you would like to test some can send some to you for free think it would be better if more then one person does the testing PM me if you would like to thanks


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

pitifulnewbie said:


> Cut the excess transfer paper from around the design (Chani used a plotter but a hobby enthusiast could cut around by hand)


Hi, and welcome. Actually, the point of the thread is Chani's use of the plotter to cut and weed light transfer paper, Jet Pro SofStretch. You see, many inkjet transfer papers used to have to be cut by hand because they would flake and crumble in a plotter. Cutting by hand, as you mentioned, is OK, however with some transfer papers, you can still see where the paper ends on the shirt, AND another (and the biggest) problem is that weeding out blank areas such as in text (empty space in the letter D, let's say, can only be removed with an exacto knife).

Chani's testing and ability to successfully cut and weed the best paper out there right now, Jet Pro SofStretch, is a revelation that many of us have been waiting for! Thanks so much, Chani!!!

As far as what press to get and equipment to purchase, there is a TON of information on the boards. The best way for you to make that decision is to READ, READ, READ and then post a thread if you have a specific question. These questions are usually asked over and over again by newbies so there will be plenty of information here. I am also relatively new (one year doing garment decoration), but you'll find that by reading up, the learning curve won't be quite so steep. Of course, the BEST way to learn is by doing... You'll learn REAL FAST that way! LOL 

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> One another note, I finally got quarters to do laundry yesterday and washed the second shirt that I pressed. This time I waited for at least 24 hours, and the result was MORE than acceptable! Less fading (tho there was a TINY bit), and the ink didn't run, so the drop shadow looks good.


Good to know I was right -- the fading was caused by laundering prior to the 24 hour period. Excellent!



> Again, I went against the directions deliberately and washed it in HOT water and dried on HIGH heat. Not all of your customers are going to follow wash instructions.


I created a sweatshirt for my brother-in-law for Christmas. He did the same exact thing -- ripped the shirt off, threw it in the laundry and then washed in hot water, right-side-out, in a commercial washer. Then he threw it in a HOT commercial dryer too. I saw him last weekend, and he said, "Oh! I washed that shirt you made me the other day <starting to chuckle> and totally forgot that I was supposed to wash that shirt inside out! <Laughing harder> I was doing whites so the water was on hot, and the dryer was too! Good thing you make good shirts -- it still looks perfect!!" When I asked if it faded at all, he said, "No -- it looks exactly the same as when you gave it to me!" Since he's a total fuss-pot about his clothes, and really beats them up with the commercial washer and dryers, I took this as a good sign! I'll be using the JPSS for a job next week, and I'm pretty confident it will hold up...

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Thanks, Melissa! Yes, coming from someone who has read so many threads about heat transfer paper and how they really shouldn't be used commercially other than for samples really had me scared. Then I hear about this paper.

The purpose of this thread, yes, was to use this paper on a vinyl cutter, but secondary to that, I wanted to see if it was commercially viable. After these tests I wouldn't have a problem buying a shirt made with this paper! As long as Pigment inks were used, that is. 

But if you take a look at my contour path, you'll notice that I did not cut the centers of letters. I was pretty confident that this would not be noticed, and I was right. You really cannot tell on the actual shirt.  I also did leave about a sixteenth of an inch around letters and the design. Again, you can't tell. But if you were to leave the paper in-tact and just pressed a rectangle around this design, you WOULD notice that. I saw a picture of another design here on these forums that was just letters and drop shadows. The design looked great! BUT, you could also see the polymer box around the whole design, even in the picture.

David, I'd be happy to test out that paper! I'll send you my details in a PM. Thanks!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> But if you take a look at my contour path, you'll notice that I did not cut the centers of letters. I was pretty confident that this would not be noticed, and I was right. You really cannot tell on the actual shirt.


I DID notice  -- but I noticed it in the picture of the reversed design BEFORE it was pressed. -- I COULD NOT see it on the shirt. Why didn't you try to cut out the text? I'm curious...

I really don't find the uncut area to be TOO noticeable most of the time, and seems to improve a little with washing. I almost always trim around the image, but there have been designs (only done for family) that I just left the entire sheet, just to see what it looked like, and it really wasn't that bad. Of course, if I were making the shirt for a customer, then I'd be more concerned about it.

I, too, have found the JPSS to be good enough for commercial use. I will certainly be using it for t-shirt orders going forward.

Good luck with your experiment with the self-weeding paper -- I can't wait to hear about it! This might just be enough to get you that M.H.M. designation 

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

LOL! Thanks! 

The reason you see it on the pre-pressed design after it's been cut is because that's the backing sheet, which is white. 

And the reason I didn't cut them out, which would have been just as easy on the plotter itself, is to save a little time in weeding the design for something I felt wasn't necessary in the first place.  If you have an order for a couple hundred shirts, any time you can save is good. 

On another note, while this is a two-ply paper, I actually find it easier to line up on the shirt when pressing if I cut through the whole sheet and weed it. It's pretty tough to see the design through the backing sheet.

I suppose if I have absolutely everything centered horizontally I could just go by the edges of the paper... Yeah, I might do that.

Just thinking out loud. 

On yet another note...I'm waiting for replies in another thread, but I may have found the answer to my dreams! A PIGMENT CIS for my Canon i9900 printer! 11x17 transfers here I come!  (crossing fingers)


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

Could anyone be so kind as to tell me who sells this paper, and the cost of it.

Many thanks in advance.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Sure!

It's available at one of our forum sponsors, Coastal Business Supplies. They also offer a discount to forum members, which you can find under "View Offers" on the left of your screen here. Scroll down past the sponsor descriptions to view the offers.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Pics of the wash! Pics of the wash! Pics of the wash!


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

LOL!

The shirt that I'm having my dad wash is still over there. It's been washed 4 times so far and still looks great!

I'll get pics as soon as I think to bring a camera over there.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Go to dad's! Go to dad's! Go to dad's!

Haha, sorry.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Patience, young Padawan. 

I'll try to get pics in the next couple days.


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## temoaztech (Jan 21, 2007)

i can do that logo with my c88+ print it with regular heat tranfer material for white ts and cut it with my roland gx 24 with optical sensor and countour cut it and have the same result.with no mask tape used at all.maybe your way it will work for darks ts.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

With HPSS, yes, you can do this without the Magic Mask if your design fits on your transfer paper while leaving room for your pinch rollers on your plotter. 

I actually did this test BEFORE I realized that JPSS was a 2-ply transfer paper. If this were IronAll, for instance, you would NEED a carrier sheet like Magic Mask.

Even with JPSS I prefer to cut all the way through the paper and weed that because it's easier and faster for me to line my transfer up, but you're right, with JPSS, you can just cut through the polymer and weed that.


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## temoaztech (Jan 21, 2007)

ya well the image will not be mirror it will be on face up on the magic mask tape do u think it will have the same result but for dark ts have u done a test with jet pro material for dark colors i was thinking in ordering from costal suppliers their material and from stahls the magic mask tape contour cut and see if the print will not stick om the tape when u put it on the shirt,thanks for your input always seen to have a hard time when i do dark ts with detail very hard to line up.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

why not use Viny for darks l


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I think you might be misunderstanding what I did with this. The magic mask in this case went UNDER the JPSS, not on top of it, so I did print in mirror. Then I put the backer of the transfer on the Magic Mas, not on the face side. Then I cut all the way through the transfer, then pressed.

With opaques you DO need to use a carrier sheet OVER your design and then lift it off your backer before you press, but in this case it was under the transfer.

I hope I explained that well enough...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

temoaztech said:


> have u done a test with jet pro material for dark colors


At this time, there is only Jetpro for lights. If I've missed a news flash, I would be thrilled if JP for darks came out.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> At this time, there is only Jetpro for lights. If I've missed a news flash, I would be thrilled if JP for darks came out.



Forgive me if I am confused... but isnt this JP for darks? 

JET DARK Transfer Paper - 8 1/2" x 11" (50 sheets) Click for Discounts - 11-MJD


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Doug,

The paper in your link is for darks. 

The link title says JetDark, which is not Jetpro. Jetpro's whole name is Jetprosofstretch. While there are papers for darks, when Jetpro does come out with the dark version it would (hopefully) be stretchy, like the light, and would hopefully be a 'stretchy' alternative to Ironall for darks.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Coastal certainly makes it seem like its the same stuff as sofstretch only for darks.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Both of them are made my Neenah Paper, but Jet-Pro is different from JetDark, as Kelly said.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

uuuuuuugh!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Well, I was hoping for better news, I was hoping I was unaware of the arrival.

I am full of anticipation, I can't wait to see what they come out with, considering the way JP light beatout Ironall.

I'm sure when it's on it's way, or near, there will be a big fanfare that'll be hard to miss here. Kind of feels like waiting for Christmas.

Chani, thanks for all of your research here. I want to read the thread from the start. I'm afraid I'll want a cutter after I read your thread here.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

AdamnSmith said:


> uuuuuuugh!


 
Sorry, Doug.  But think of it this way, we're all in the same boat.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

There's also a JetLight, if that makes things any better (prolly not  )

I'm sure they called JPSS Jet-Pro because it's the first truly professional-quality paper that they've produced.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Chani said:


> There's also a JetLight, if that makes things any better (prolly not  )


Right again. I know other folks have papers that they use and truly enjoy, but I'm only interested in the JPSS, and Ironall Dark, untill JP makes my day!! I love the stretch, and it's Lou endorsed, so I'm there.



chani said:


> I'm sure they called JPSS Jet-Pro because it's the first truly professional-quality paper that they've produced.


Could be! Or they wanted to imply it. If it wasn't their original intention, the reception they've received could certainly allow them to tout it as their original intention. 

Outside of that slightly gritty hand, I'm very happy, very. That is the general concensus I see on the boards as well. It's a great thing.   

I think I'm going to make an: "I (heart) Jetpro" shirt!


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I just realized something. I need to do more tests, but I believe I had a problem with one shirt that I did BECAUSE I cut all the way through the backer using this method. I may need to cut just through the polymer and leave the backer in-tact.

More tests to come!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Hmmmm.... that's interesting -- could be! Again, I wait with baited breath! LOL  

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Sorry, everyone. I didn't have a chance to do my tests this weekend. 

I promise I'll get back to this as soon as I can!

But I just got a MAJOR surprise in the mail! The labels for our first larger t-shirt order (with custom labels!), so we need to get those shirts relabelled ASAP.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

*whoohoo chani, suprises are always good  that's awesome. i'll try to contain my anticipation for the coming test results *


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## 109935 (Apr 14, 2007)

Does Anyone Know Of A Sofstretch
Supplier In Australia? I Have Sent Two Emails To Coastal Re Pricing And Supply But Have Had No Answer.
I Cannot Think Of A Stranger Way Of Doing Busines Than Not Replying To
Potential Customers.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

109935 said:


> Does Anyone Know Of A Sofstretch
> Supplier In Australia? I Have Sent Two Emails To Coastal Re Pricing And Supply But Have Had No Answer.
> I Cannot Think Of A Stranger Way Of Doing Busines Than Not Replying To
> Potential Customers.


Don't know of a supplier in Australia, but New Milford Photo (US) has it and they ship internationally.

Iron On Transfer Paper, T Shirt Transfer Paper | New Milford Photo

There's a rate calculator on the FAQ page.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Chani, what settings do you put the cutter on in order to prevent the paper from cutting caught? LFor instance... when I cut regular printer paper, the machine doesnt hold the paper in place that well which causes a few messed up cuts.

Also, how do you keep the machine from cutting it's self ? Like.. the plastic beneath the transfer, my machine is getting a groove on there.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Doug,

I actually used Magic Mask when I was cutting. It stabilizes the paper a little, and prevents the plotter from cutting into itself. 

I believe with the Magic Mask I used a setting of 17gf and 20cm/s. But from now on I won't be cutting all the way through the backer paper. For that I'll use 30gf and 20cm/s.


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## gbishop (Mar 30, 2007)

Great thread Chani! Thanks for the great info and pics. Looking forward to more posts on this.

George


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Chani said:


> Hi Doug,
> 
> I actually used Magic Mask when I was cutting. It stabilizes the paper a little, and prevents the plotter from cutting into itself.
> 
> I believe with the Magic Mask I used a setting of 17gf and 20cm/s. But from now on I won't be cutting all the way through the backer paper. For that I'll use 30gf and 20cm/s.



Nevermind, the cutter is back to where it was. I guess I figured with the one cut it did on the phone with tech support that it would be healed.


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## flattop (Nov 7, 2007)

what happened with the wash test?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Oops...I completely forgot. Sorry.

I'll get pictures this weekend of that shirt. I think it's been washed about 10 times or so now.


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## AdamnSmith (Dec 10, 2007)

Get on it Chani!! lol


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Good to "see" you again, Chani! It's been a while since I've seen you on the Forum -- was hoping it was because you were busy with work, or taking a nice vacation, rather than being sick or something...

I've been swamped between my "real" job, my daughter's birthday party preparations, researching Summer Camps and after school programs for the Fall, Hubby starting new job, etc., so I haven't been on much myself.

Just wanted to say "Hi!" and "Have a wonderful Easter!"

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Meliessa,

Yeah, unfortunately I wasn't around because I was sick and had personal problems. 

But in your case, it's great that you're busy with your family and job! 

Now I'm busy with the plotter tests that I'm conducting.  So I'll still be a little scarce on parts of these forums, but I'll be around! 

Wash test pics will come either today or tomorrow.


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## forereal (Mar 14, 2008)

Could someone tell me what would happen if you printed this design on a light gray or yellow shirt. Would the white polymer be clearly visible in the parts that were not cut out?


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> Hi Meliessa,
> 
> Yeah, unfortunately I wasn't around because I was sick and had personal problems.


Wow, sorry to hear that. Hope it wasn't anything too serious... 



> But in your case, it's great that you're busy with your family and job!


Yes, I guess you could consider it "good stress", but still stress none-the-same...



> Now I'm busy with the plotter tests that I'm conducting.  So I'll still be a little scarce on parts of these forums, but I'll be around!


Yippee! I can't _*wait*_ for more plotter tests!! More, more, MORE!!  Had to tell you that I went to the ISS Show in the terrential, flooding rains, and 70-80 mph winds just to see a plotter in action and to ask questions about them because of your posts!! And after all that, they never even turned one on! ACCCKKK! The guy I spoke to at Roland knew all about you, and mentioned you by name... Guess you didn't know you were famous, huh?  



> Wash test pics will come either today or tomorrow.


Waiting once again... but I don't mind -- they're ALWAYS worth the wait!  

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

OMG! That's AWESOME!  Thank you for letting me know! 

I'm blushing now. 

Okay, I'll get pics of that shirt tonite. I forgot to yesterday when I was over there. 

I'm sorry you didn't even get to see one run, tho, especially after all of that! 

I'll have plenty of videos soon. I posted my first one today...plotter noise comparison. At least you can see them run in that one.


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## kburke3113 (Mar 25, 2008)

Chani,
Great post! Thanks for all your hard work!!I am new to cutting & transfers-I have a roland GX24-I always wondered what the big piece of plastic was for. Am I to assume that this is a carrier? Would this replace magic mask? 

I have an order for tees where a parochial school had a contest and the winner's picture is going to be put on the tees. It's a simple circle heart and cross, 3 colors and I originally was going to cut in vinyl, but since I'm new trying to decide how to cut it, but now that I'm hearing about the JPSS maybe thats the way i should go?


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Karen,

Thanks! 

I'm not sure which plastic you're talking about. Did it come with your GX-24? If it's clear and has a sticky side, then yes, it's a carrier. 

But here's the thing...there are two ways of going about cutting JPSS. WITH a carrier, and without. It was mentioned earlier in this thread that you don't actually need to use a carrier with JPSS because it's already two-ply. I didn't realize that when I started this thread.  So you can set your machine to a low downforce like 30g, use a 60 degree blade, and cut through just the polymer, weed that, and press! 

Actually, I've used a carrier ONCE with this GX-24 that I have here, but I made sure that my pinch rollers were on the paper I was cutting, not on the carrier as I would with my CE5000-60. The GX-24 won't find the registration marks if your rollers aren't on the paper itself.

Also, make sure that the bottom edge of your paper is lined up against the bottom edge of your carrier if you do want to use a carrier with JPSS.

Another thing to note...if you'd like to cut all the way through the backer, you'll need to use a 60 degree blade. If you bought your GX-24 from Imprintables, it should have come with one.

Good luck!


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## b1aze5 (Mar 28, 2008)

this is very educational.... thanks


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## recrisp (Oct 25, 2007)

Chani said:


> Hi Meliessa,
> Wash test pics will come either today or tomorrow.


Hi Chani,

I'm not rushing you, 'cause I know you have a life too, but this is just a friendly reminder, I know I can't be the only one to be watching thing. 

*Thank you* by the way for ALL of this, I know that you spent a lot of time, and it's appreciated too.

(I hope that you're not sick again or things aren't going to good)

Maybe we all ought to get together and buy you an apartment washer/dryer...
Would that help? heheh

Randy


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

LOL! Yes! That would help a LOT! 

Not that we'd have anywhere to put it. 

Sorry, again, my dad had it in the wash again when I was going to take that pic, then I forgot again. I'll have Mark remind me to bring our camera over there again for this.


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## onipse6 (Jun 8, 2007)

*Re: Jet-Pro SofStretch vs Plotter Test*

may i know what the magic mask is? where can i buy it? thanks


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Carlos,

Magic Mask and TTD Mask are clear plastic sheets that have a sticky side to them. You use them when you have a single-ply media that you want to cut on a plotter, like most inkjet transfers for light fabrics or tackle twill.

Magic Mask is available at Stahls, Imprintables Warehouse, and Beacon. TTD Mask (which has been recommended to me) is available at Imprintables Warehouse.


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## onipse6 (Jun 8, 2007)

Hi Chani,

Thank you very much for the info.


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## pegasus69 (Jul 31, 2007)

I just saw a new product on the shelf at Wal-Mart. Avery now has "stretch" t-shirt transfer paper!

I feel like they are trying to make it possible for just anyone to do their own custom shirts and not need us "professionals".


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

It's still using a hand iron, not a heat press and also, there's the fade factor that Avery won't address regarding the proper ink... The worst it will do is reinforce the image of a low quality product using heat transfers... it's a shame...


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> It's still using a hand iron, not a heat press and also, there's the fade factor that Avery won't address regarding the proper ink... The worst it will do is reinforce the image of a low quality product using heat transfers... it's a shame...


I agree with you Kelly. It is a shame that such products will only reinforce the image to the consumer that heat transfers are the same substandard products they once were. When I first started looking into this business I checked out the transfer papers @ places like wal-mart and what I found nearly changed my thoughts on doing this for profit. I am so glad I was able to find the higher grade materials such as jetprosofstrech and iron all to produce a quality transfer.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

pegasus69 said:


> I just saw a new product on the shelf at Wal-Mart. Avery now has "stretch" t-shirt transfer paper!
> 
> I feel like they are trying to make it possible for just anyone to do their own custom shirts and not need us "professionals".


Then look at it as a way of saying "What can I offer that person, that they can't do on their own." Such as quickly heat pressing a bunch of shirts, that would take them a long time to hand iron, etc.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Yeah, I agree, Rick... I did start out with stuff for my own use with the Avery, and wanted to make a better product because folks were asking me to make stuff for them... and that sent me on the hunt to learn all I could about the process... which lead me here - the the t-shirtforums! I got very lucky to find this forum so fast... I first found Josh on Youtube, then Lou, and found Lou here while looking through posts... and figured I must have hit paydirt... lucky girl... 

Hey Robert... good way to keep up marketing with the changing times, that's a good "pitch"... I would also think a sample shirt of Avery next to a sample shirt of JPSS should also do the trick to inform potential customers of the vast difference in product... it would convince me!


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Yeah, I agree, Rick... I did start out with stuff for my own use with the Avery, and wanted to make a better product because folks were asking me to make stuff for them... and that sent me on the hunt to learn all I could about the process... which lead me here - the the t-shirtforums! I got very lucky to find this forum so fast... I first found Josh on Youtube, then Lou, and found Lou here while looking through posts... and figured I must have hit paydirt... lucky girl...
> 
> Hey Robert... good way to keep up marketing with the changing times, that's a good "pitch"... I would also think a sample shirt of Avery next to a sample shirt of JPSS should also do the trick to inform potential customers of the vast difference in product... it would convince me!


Absolutely Kelly, that is pretty similar to the route I took. After sampling some of the on shelf product I knew instantly this was not going to work for me like that. I went to youtube simply looking for a video to "learn" from  ... Well, as you probably know I found one of Lou's videos and that led me here. The rest as they say is history... I'm so glad I found this forum it has helped me grow in knowledge so quick. I did like Robert's take on marketing .. excellent Robert  And Kelly you are 1000 % correct placing a piece of that off shelf transfer up against some jpss would convince me of the difference immediately.


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## pegasus69 (Jul 31, 2007)

mrdavid said:


> Chani dont buy cheap when it comes CIS get good one I just learned the hard way I am going to get one like Lou has I think that would be the best way to go I just spent $56.00 dolors becouse in middle of A job LOL


What CIS does Lou use? Maybe I should be asking what would Lou use if he had a C88+ ?


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## pegasus69 (Jul 31, 2007)

What technique would I use to try this with my 15" STICKA?

I am going to be doing my first big order for my church's 125th anniversary. My thoughts were to use my C88+ to print out a large cross (full color) and caption line beneath it onto JPSS and somehow cut it on the STICKA. And then apply it to a light color shirt. Maybe light blue.

My sticka does not have an optical sensor (that I know of), so would I be able to precut the JPSS and then run it through the printer and then weed it? Assuming I could find a way to match them up with no registration marks?

Any thoughts would be helpful!


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## 109935 (Apr 14, 2007)

Hey Robert... good way to keep up marketing with the changing times, that's a good "pitch"... I would also think a sample shirt of Avery next to a sample shirt of JPSS should also do the trick to inform potential customers of the vast difference in product... it would convince me![/quote]
Great tip Kelly. Yesterday I was at a Sunday market where every man and his dog are selling tees with transfers. Some of course are quite good, some are atrocious. One stall holder I spoke to had two shirts side by side with the same image applied. The quality difference was obvious. Above the hanging shirts was a sign"SPOT THE DIFFERENCE?" It made people take notice and realise that there is a lot of crap out there with regard to materials used. The lady with the stall had a number of requests to do shirts to the customers' specs. Having seen the quality difference they did not even bother shopping around for a better price as it was only because the quality was in their face that they realised that all the other shirts did not just have different designs, but their materials vary so much. Very few customers even know there is a variety of materials available.
I mention this because that sign display increased her business by 30%.Given the ordinary quality of the others I have no reason to doubt her. Most of the increase is due to repeat business. As the lady said, the extra 45 cents cost was not a problem as the quality allows her to charge extra.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

pegasus69 said:


> What technique would I use to try this with my 15" STICKA?
> 
> I am going to be doing my first big order for my church's 125th anniversary. My thoughts were to use my C88+ to print out a large cross (full color) and caption line beneath it onto JPSS and somehow cut it on the STICKA. And then apply it to a light color shirt. Maybe light blue.
> 
> ...


It's complicated, but in a nutshell, you would create your registration marks around your artwork in CutStudio first (remember that this has to fit within the papers boundaries). Then you print your image on your paper (uncut), the printer wouldn't be able to print on it precut anyway. In CutStudio you would have to have a vector cutline to cut around you image. There are two ways to do this: 1. create it yourself 2. Use the program to create a cutline (to teach this is a whole other subject.) Then you would put the paper in your cutter (you need a special backing for this). Using the CutStudio, you manually align the registration marks. Then it will cut the image out. I forget, but I think Josh at Imprintables may have a video out ther showing how CutStudio works this. It is with a GX-24, which has the optical sensor, but you might see how the software works. 

If that sounds like too much work, someone has a service where they print and cut the design for you. I can't remember if it is Stahls or one of their companies.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Great post, Wayne, thank you. Real life situations are the best examples showing real money going into pockets. I've seen other members sometimes ask how they can show their printing is good quality to a customer. A great example is always, show two shirts, one freshly printed, and one washed 20 times so they customer knows what to expect out of the quality.

You know I've got that JPSS shirt I washed 11 times in warm water, beat it up in a high heat dryer 11 times, bleached it with 1 Cup of Bleach 7 times in a row (didn't even use pigment ink  I used regular Canon oem dye ink that is water soluable, so I should have by all rights pretty much ruined this shirt) but nothing happened. I used to use Ironall, from what I saw of the Ironall, I think JPSS is amazing to survive this test. Not only survive it, but to come out beautifully.

If I had a booth, I would display my beat on in the wash and bleached shirt looking perfect. Probably the other sellers will come to me to buy JPSS from me!! But they would have to pay so much for my secret weapon paper, they couldn't sell as low as me, hahahaa! Okay, I'm getting crazy now, but hey, it could happen.

Here's the pics of this shirt if anyone wants to see it and hasn't:
I'm always happy to cheer for JPSS and show it off:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t47868.html#post282700

Thanks again for sharing the great post, Wayne, and enjoy the pics.


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## 109935 (Apr 14, 2007)

Kelly I saw your results the other week with JPSS, great job. At the moment I am playing around with the DIY DTG and have not decided on a heat press. I am also doing a lot of time on stock images and art work so am in no big hurry. That being said, many weeks ago I sent a number of emails to Coastal requesting a price for JPSS and Iron All dark. I requested a price for 200 sheets of each including freight to Australia.Can you believe it_no reply? I have seen other suppliers mentioned in this forum so will contact them in due course. I cannot believe Coastal's lack of a reply. I know another member of this forum is using Soft Stretch and will perhaps contact them later. No agent in Australia apparently.
As for the sign display at the Sunday market, it cost next to nothing. Sometimes we just don't see the obvious. Cheers!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

No, I can't believe it. If I find a supplier out there to refer you to for international shipping, I'll post it in a Jetprosofstretch thread dealing with general info, not the plotter test, and send you a pm. Good luck with the designs.


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## smeatongrove (Feb 18, 2008)

Chani, Thanks very much for a fascinating, informative thread. However you didn't answer Melissa's much earlier question (Jan 27) about using the cheaper Craft Robo instead of the flash expensive cutter you used. I would ONLY need it to do what you've just done so beautifully in your test sample - no vinyl cutting at all. I'm aware of your general view of the Craft Robo but wonder if it might be suitable exclusively for weeding the Jet Pro transfers rather than hand cutting them? What's your view  Jack


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

AdamnSmith said:


> Forgive me if I am confused... but isnt this JP for darks?
> 
> JET DARK Transfer Paper - 8 1/2" x 11" (50 sheets) Click for Discounts - 11-MJD


Not jetPro Sofstretch


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## schenk (Jul 16, 2007)

how would you cut jpss on a roll? you cant use a backing like magic mask right?


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