# Suggestions for Polyester Shirts?



## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

Having the typical frustrations of heat pressing on Polyester. Generally always happens on any but I like the Sport Tek posicharge but usually have scortching marks where the platen area leaves a glossy square.

Yes, I've lowered the temp. This will happen even at around 250 which tells me maybe it's just this shirt. I can't go lower than that.

I'll try again with some poly pillows maybe or less time but I'm feeling like it's a lost cause.

Anyone know of a polyester shirt that can take the heat better?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

You shouldn't be having issues at temperatures below 300. Even on Sport Tek black shirts. We routinely use them. 

But if you are using vinyl, then a teflon pillow is a must. Also light pressure.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

splathead said:


> You shouldn't be having issues at temperatures below 300. Even on Sport Tek black shirts. We routinely use them.
> 
> But if you are using vinyl, then a teflon pillow is a must. Also light pressure.


Why am I having issues? Low pressure at 285 is still doing it at only 8 seconds of heat. I've checked the temp is accurate as well.

Why is it happening still? Using transfer express ultra stretch applies at 290. Should I use a teflon cover? Can you tell me more about your process?


splathead said:


> You shouldn't be having issues at temperatures below 300. Even on Sport Tek black shirts. We routinely use them.
> 
> But if you are using vinyl, then a teflon pillow is a must. Also light pressure.


It's starting to really bum me out because I can't imagine I'm doing anything that I could be doing better.

I don't know how I'm supposed to fix this..


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

splathead said:


> You shouldn't be having issues at temperatures below 300. Even on Sport Tek black shirts. We routinely use them.
> 
> But if you are using vinyl, then a teflon pillow is a must. Also light pressure.


My God I pressed at 280 for 1 second still scortching what in the actual fffing fff.

This is driving me mad. I hate this so much.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Don't use a teflon cover. Use a teflon pillow - it will dissapate those hard edges. Use parchment paper for a cover. In a pinch you can get some at the supermarket.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> My God I pressed at 280 for 1 second still scortching what in the actual fffing fff.


Obviously you need to verify the temperature.
I bet the thermocouple is defective and the temperature goes up to 450F when the safety thermostat is opening.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> Obviously you need to verify the temperature.
> I bet the thermocouple is defective and the temperature goes up to 450F when the safety thermostat is opening.


It's about 15 degrees hotter than the indicator says according to my IR thermometer. You think it's getting hotter as it is pressed?


splathead said:


> Don't use a teflon cover. Use a teflon pillow - it will dissapate those hard edges. Use parchment paper for a cover. In a pinch you can get some at the supermarket.


Ordered one it will arrive today. I'll get some parchment paper as well. Why does this help?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> You think it's getting hotter as it is pressed?





PolyPains said:


> I pressed at 280 for 1 second still scortching


Getting hotter in one second?
Not possible, but getting scorch marks at 280F is also very odd.
If the really are scorch marks, the temperature has to be much higher.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

TABOB said:


> If the really are scorch marks, the temperature has to be much higher.


A lot of people think they are scorch marks but it is really more like a press shine. Like back in the day when people actually ironed their clothes and some garments would come out shiny.

The hotter the temperature, the more prevalent the shine. Some teflon cover sheets exacerbates the issue. As I mentioned earlier, I find parchment paper helps tremendously.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> Getting hotter in one second?
> Not possible, but getting scorch marks at 280F is also very odd.
> If the really are scorch marks, the temperature has to be much higher.


Well I'm not sure, you get mixed ideas of what is what but my description: it's a glossy shiny area that was the exact size of the platen. So what's happening? Is it flattening the fibers and making it look shiny or is the heat melting it a little bit?


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

splathead said:


> A lot of people think they are scorch marks but it is really more like a press shine. Like back in the day when people actually ironed their clothes and some garments would come out shiny.
> 
> The hotter the temperature, the more prevalent the shine. Some teflon cover sheets exacerbates the issue. As I mentioned earlier, I find parchment paper helps tremendously.


That sounds like the thing that is happening. I've been seeing same results with or without teflon so that's a lost cause but let me try the parchment paper again because I could probably test that more. I also got the teflon pillow.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Well I'm not sure, you get mixed ideas of what is what but my description: it's a glossy shiny area that was the exact size of the platen. So what's happening? Is it flattening the fibers and making it look shiny or is the heat melting it a little bit?


OK... these are not scorch marks.
Some fabrics will do this, and the only way around it is pressing the whole shirt.
Try pressing the whole shirt for a few seconds, section by section after decorating it.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> OK... these are not scorch marks.
> Some fabrics will do this, and the only way around it is pressing the whole shirt.
> Try pressing the whole shirt for a few seconds, section by section after decorating it.


So essentially just creating this effect on the entire shirt? That's a disappointing solution but I can try it. That's the idea, though, right?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> So essentially just creating this effect on the entire shirt?


That's the only way for some fabrics.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> That's the only way for some fabrics.


But there must be polyester shirts that don't have this issue. I'm looking for that. Some say this issue doesn't happen to them on the exact same shirts so I'm trying to see what the method is. I just got some teflon pillows so we'll see what that does. What do you think it will do?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Some say this issue doesn't happen to them on the exact same shirts so I'm trying to see what the method is.


I'm not familiar with this particular shirt, so I don't know. 
I just know some fabrics do discolor even with low heat. It does happen to some cotton shirts too.
Normally the discoloration is not permanent and will go away once the shirt is washed.



PolyPains said:


> I just got some teflon pillows so we'll see what that does. What do you think it will do?


These prevent the paper edge parks. They will not help with the shiny box.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> I'm not familiar with this particular shirt, so I don't know.
> I just know some fabrics do discolor even with low heat. It does happen to some cotton shirts too.
> Normally the discoloration is not permanent and will go away once the shirt is washed.
> 
> ...


This shiny box is so frustrating haha. Is there another idea out there to avoid this?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> This shiny box is so frustrating haha. Is there another idea out there to avoid this?


For many shirts using low heat transfers (at 280F) will do it.
Some vinyls will can be applied at 250F... so you can try this as well.
If you get a shiny box at 250F, then just forget about it... use another shirt.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> For many shirts using low heat transfers (at 280F) will do it.
> Some vinyls will can be applied at 250F... so you can try this as well.
> If you get a shiny box at 250F, then just forget about it... use another shirt.


Any tips on shirts to try that at least you've had success with or someone has? I just want to know if these sport tek ones are a lost cause or if someone has figured something out.

I might try getting a more expensive hotronix Heatpress but I don't necessarily think my results will be better. I've backed off pressure a lot and temp a lot as well on my generic but pretty nice heat press.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Any tips on shirts to try that at least you've had success with or someone has?


I don't normally do polyester shirts and when I do I always use the ones intended for decoration.
All the brands I've used so far(Gildan, FOTL, AWDis and a few others) work well.



PolyPains said:


> I just want to know if these sport tek ones are a lost cause or if someone has figured something out.


Try pressing one (no transfer needed) at 250F for 20 seconds and see if you get the shiny box.
If you still get a shiny box, then the only ways to decorate these shirts are embroidery, applique, or 2 component cold curing ink.


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## BrendaPhoto (Jan 6, 2017)

PolyPains said:


> Having the typical frustrations of heat pressing on Polyester. Generally always happens on any but I like the Sport Tek posicharge but usually have scortching marks where the platen area leaves a glossy square.
> 
> Yes, I've lowered the temp. This will happen even at around 250 which tells me maybe it's just this shirt. I can't go lower than that.
> 
> ...


Are you using Celsius or Fahrenheit? 200 celsius is 392 Fahrenheit which is too hot for Sport Tek and most other polyester shirts.
I press anywhere from 350 to 375 for my Sublimation on polyester shirts. Jerzees 21M, UltraClub, Badger, Augusta, Gilden 420, ...... Very light pressure, vapor sponge underneath.
Have fully found that 2 to 3 cover sheets stops the scorching. Do a lot of testing on each type of shirt with all of that and keep your notes and photos. Every freaking poly shirt style is different, lol.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

BrendaPhoto said:


> Are you using Celsius or Fahrenheit? 200 celsius is 392 Fahrenheit which is too hot for Sport Tek and most other polyester shirts.
> I press anywhere from 350 to 375 for my Sublimation on polyester shirts. Jerzees 21M, UltraClub, Badger, Augusta, Gilden 420, ...... Very light pressure, vapor sponge underneath.
> Have fully found that 2 to 3 cover sheets stops the scorching. Do a lot of testing on each type of shirt with all of that and keep your notes and photos. Every freaking poly shirt style is different, lol.


Definitely not mixing up F and C.

Extra cover sheets, huh? I just ordered some kinda flexible silicone heat pad that stahl's sells for this kinda thing. Hope it does something. 


Vapor sponge? I never sublimated anything so is this stuff specific to that?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Extra cover sheets, huh? I just ordered some kinda flexible silicone heat pad that stahl's sells for this kinda thing. Hope it does something.


If the shiny box is under the transfer paper, none of these will help.
Adding layers on top of the transfer requires increase in temperature and press time.

One thing you could try is steaming the shirt after the transfer application. 
Sometimes the discoloration is just due to the moisture loss and steaming the fabric will restore it.
It's basically the opposite of "pressing the whole garment"... instead of removing the moisture you are adding it back.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> If the shiny box is under the transfer paper, none of these will help.
> Adding layers on top of the transfer requires increase in temperature and press time.
> 
> One thing you could try is steaming the shirt after the transfer application.
> ...


Clever, I'll try this. Other reasons it happens? Complete mystery to me. Somewhere said it might be flattening the tube like structure of the polyester fibers.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> If the shiny box is under the transfer paper, none of these will help.
> Adding layers on top of the transfer requires increase in temperature and press time.
> 
> One thing you could try is steaming the shirt after the transfer application.
> ...


Wait but why would this work when washing doesn't?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Wait but why would this work when washing doesn't?


It will not.
It's just a method for avoiding having to wash the shirt. It works only when moisture is the issue.



PolyPains said:


> Somewhere said it might be flattening the tube like structure of the polyester fibers.


That's basically melting the fibers, which is what happens to some polyester fabrics, but at 250F this should not really happen.
Unless of course the fabric has been coated with something more heat sensitive.


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## vinyllady (Feb 18, 2019)

TABOB said:


> Obviously you need to verify the temperature.
> I bet the thermocouple is defective and the temperature goes up to 450F when the safety thermostat is opening.


This was going to be my suggestion. It sounds as if your temperature is off.


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## abetterimage (Sep 8, 2007)

We've found 2 things to help alleviate the "shiny" effect of pressing poly garments. 1) The pillow below, as many have mentioned. 2) A blank T-Shirt above spread over the whole platen area. When doing many shirts (like names/numbers on sports jerseys) I will wrap the t-shirt under the heat platen and attach it with magnets on the top side. I add a few seconds to the time to be sure it reaches the right temp.


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## abetterimage (Sep 8, 2007)

BTW, that's a single layer of T-Shirt, NOT the whole shirt - a cut up one so it's a single layer.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

vinyllady said:


> This was going to be my suggestion. It sounds as if your temperature is off.


Is everyone just ignoring my post that mentioned IR thermometer calibration? And the fact I still went way down in temp and still have the issue? You guys think my IR gun is reading about 250 as well as my press and it's still off?

I guess it's just not off so these responses are just glossing over the details I thought I was clear about. Sorry but I'm frustrated hearing this again because it keeps getting brought up and I keep saying this isn't possible.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

abetterimage said:


> We've found 2 things to help alleviate the "shiny" effect of pressing poly garments. 1) The pillow below, as many have mentioned. 2) A blank T-Shirt above spread over the whole platen area. When doing many shirts (like names/numbers on sports jerseys) I will wrap the t-shirt under the heat platen and attach it with magnets on the top side. I add a few seconds to the time to be sure it reaches the right temp.


Teflon pillow between garment and heat platen? I tried one and these pillows must suck. I had to triple the press time and it still wasn't hot enough to even activate the adhesive. I had to send it back. Any suggestions on others to try?

I'll try your shirt method. Cotton or what? Same deal just between shirt and platen?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

PolyPains said:


> Teflon pillow between garment and heat platen?


Umm, no. The pillow goes on the lower platen then the shirt is placed on top of it. The pillow only helps on hard edge marks. Parchment paper goes between upper platen and shirt.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

splathead said:


> Umm, no. The pillow goes on the lower platen then the shirt is placed on top of it. The pillow only helps on hard edge marks. Parchment paper goes between upper platen and shirt.


I see. And this would be in addition to the spongy rubber material that most presses use or in place of it?


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## abetterimage (Sep 8, 2007)

PolyPains said:


> And this would be in addition to the spongy rubber material that most presses use or in place of it?


Bottom to top: Spongy rubber platen material, teflon pillow (I stuff mine in a teflon platen cover to hold it in place), garment with vinyl being pressed, cotton t-shirt material, heat press heat platen (which I cover with a teflon sheet held on with magnets).
My Siser Easyweed vinyl time and temp calls for 305 degrees for 10 seconds. With the T-Shirt I usually go 12-15 seconds.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

PolyPains said:


> I see. And this would be in addition to the spongy rubber material that most presses use or in place of it?


This process does not require any dismantling of your press.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

abetterimage said:


> Bottom to top: Spongy rubber platen material, teflon pillow (I stuff mine in a teflon platen cover to hold it in place), garment with vinyl being pressed, cotton t-shirt material, heat press heat platen (which I cover with a teflon sheet held on with magnets).
> My Siser Easyweed vinyl time and temp calls for 305 degrees for 10 seconds. With the T-Shirt I usually go 12-15 seconds.


Ok I'll try this type of layered combo. No parchment paper? Cotton shirt instead or what are your thoughts?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Ok I'll try this type of layered combo. No parchment paper? Cotton shirt instead or what are your thoughts?


This is like chasing your tail.
You are getting shiny fabric underneath the transfer.
There is no way to solve this by placing things on top of it or bellow the shirt.

I do have an idea though... 
What happens if you press a piece of fabric on the shiny box, after the transfer has been applied?
It should theoretically reduce the shine.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> This is like chasing your tail.
> You are getting shiny fabric underneath the transfer.
> There is no way to solve this by placing things on top of it or bellow the shirt.
> 
> ...


I'll try this as well. But why would this work and the other ideas not? I get the shine both under the transfer and around it, as long as the platen made contact but sometimes it's less noticable under the transfer but not always.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> But why would this work and the other ideas not?


Direct contact with the fabric.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> Direct contact with the fabric.


Maybe I'm not following but I thought both are in direct contact.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

PolyPains said:


> Maybe I'm not following but I thought both are in direct contact.


How, when the transfer film is still in place?


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> How, when the transfer film is still in place?


Oh, right. I see more so what you mean then. I'll try all these variations at as low of a temp that seems to work tomorrow. Hopefully I have good news. Something has to show some kind of improvement. I'm still hoping these sport tek shirts can be done. I like them more than most I find.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

Tried the methods mentioned and I don't think I noticed any improvement in the end results.

Someone have different shirts to suggest? Please remember the goal here is to find a solution with athletic material. Going back to cotton poly isn't a solution, it's just a completely different idea.

Thank you.

So far been trying with these sporttek shirts and they are all having this issue.


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## pstees (May 27, 2010)

BrendaPhoto said:


> Are you using Celsius or Fahrenheit? 200 celsius is 392 Fahrenheit which is too hot for Sport Tek and most other polyester shirts.
> I press anywhere from 350 to 375 for my Sublimation on polyester shirts. Jerzees 21M, UltraClub, Badger, Augusta, Gilden 420, ...... Very light pressure, vapor sponge underneath.
> Have fully found that 2 to 3 cover sheets stops the scorching. Do a lot of testing on each type of shirt with all of that and keep your notes and photos. Every freaking poly shirt style is different, lol.


Check into the flexible heat application pad - from Wellington House or Stahl's. Video below:





flexible application pad for heat press machine - Yahoo Video Search Results


The search engine that helps you find exactly what you're looking for. Find the most relevant information, video, images, and answers from all across the Web.




video.search.yahoo.com


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## jflores0002 (Jun 8, 2015)

This is what I do: First of all don't use IR thermometer to check the temp on your platen. The material of the platen throws off the actual temp reading on the IR thermometer. Just buy the temp test strips and place one on each corner and one in the middle of your lower platen or table. Second, don't use teflon sheets as they contribute to shiny box. I don't use parchment paper, I use the plain butcher paper that DOES NOT have the wax on one side. Use a piece that is bigger than your top platen. Use press pillow. The ones that are sold by people on line are pretty basic and cheap. I made my own using a piece of Hiwowsport High Temp Carbon Fiber welding protective blanket. Bought this on amazon. Place this over a piece of Phenolic plastic 0.125" thick. Also on amazon. This is to stiffen up the welding blanket. Encase this in teflon (Get out your sewing machine and sew the teflon into a sleeve). Trust me this makes a great pressing pillow and I have used mine quite often for over 5 years and still has not broken down like the cheap foam ones sold online. It will be super easy to insert this press pillow in between your tshirt. Use very little pressure. The settings I use for thick and thin poly shirts are 380 F for 40-45 seconds. This will not burn your shirt. immediately upon pressing remove your transfer and pillow and grab your shirt by the shoulders and give it a couple of shakes, enough to cause it to snap; kind of like when you snap towels from your dryer to remove any lint or what have you. This will remove any press marks left behind. Don't forget to tear the edges of the transfer paper before pressing in order to leave a soft border on the edges of your transfer.
Good Luck!


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

jflores0002 said:


> Don't forget to tear the edges of the transfer paper before pressing in order to leave a soft border on the edges of your transfer.


You have not read the previous comments obviously.
He's not doing sublimation...



jflores0002 said:


> Second, don't use teflon sheets as they contribute to shiny box. I don't use parchment paper, I use the plain butcher paper that DOES NOT have the wax on one side. Use a piece that is bigger than your top platen. Use press pillow.


Already covered as well.
He's getting a shiny box bellow the transfer carrier.
Adding things on top of the transfer or bellow the shirt makes zero difference.
Less heat and possibly a different type of carrier sheet are the only things that may help.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

pstees said:


> Check into the flexible heat application pad - from Wellington House or Stahl's. Video below:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just arrived yesterday. Will try soon.


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## PolyPains (Aug 21, 2021)

TABOB said:


> You have not read the previous comments obviously.
> He's not doing sublimation...
> 
> 
> ...


Is there a method someone else has that I can rely on to work? I'm not sure I got any help. Has anyone really figured this out or not? Why do they sell transfer material for poly if I can never figure out how to do this without the shiny marks? What am I doing differently?

This is such a stressful and depressing disappointment for me.

What is left to try?


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

PolyPains said:


> Is there a method someone else has that I can rely on to work? I'm not sure I got any help. Has anyone really figured this out or not? Why do they sell transfer material for poly if I can never figure out how to do this without the shiny marks? What am I doing differently?
> 
> This is such a stressful and depressing disappointment for me.
> 
> What is left to try?


I don't press on sport poly, but I understand that some of these are made with "hollow" fibers or fibers with a complex crossection so as to increase surface area for capillary action (wicking). Perhaps with sublimation one could lower the pressure enough to avoid squishing these fancy fibers into a shiny surface, but transfers require a bit more pressure, so it is likely inescapable in your scenario with this sort of fabric.


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