# Removing glue left by twill letters.



## Maineman (May 8, 2007)

I tried to post this but I messed up. So I'll try again.

I heatpressed some white twill letters onto a dark polyester jersey as the first step before sewing them onto the shirt. 1 of the letters pulled away from the jersey as I pulled the platen away. Yeah, I'm new to this process , as you can tell.

The letter left a white outline that is noticeably larger then the letter itself. I need to remove this outline before I can reseat the letter. I'm told that Methylene Chloride (maybe misspelled) can be used for this purpose but I don't have that chemical nor do I have instructions on how to proceed. 

Does anyone have any suggestions? I have to have this garment ready for tomorrow afternoon...no pressure here! 

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## htt117 (Aug 31, 2006)

Not sure about ypour process. We use a spray adhesive or we buy precut twill from Stahls. In eight case, we just stick it to the garment and then embroidery around and through it. We don't use the heat press, so I am not really sure how the adhesive would react to heat and pressure.

Methylene chloride is a solvet that can be purchased at most paint stores. The problem is, it also removes ink from many garments. Test it before you really flood the garment with it. A little air from the back side will somnetimes help lift off a softened product.

Stahls has some decent instruction with their tackle twill products. You should be able to view them on-line.

Jim


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## Maineman (May 8, 2007)

htt117 said:


> Not sure about ypour process. We use a spray adhesive or we buy precut twill from Stahls. In eight case, we just stick it to the garment and then embroidery around and through it. We don't use the heat press, so I am not really sure how the adhesive would react to heat and pressure.
> 
> Methylene chloride is a solvet that can be purchased at most paint stores. The problem is, it also removes ink from many garments. Test it before you really flood the garment with it. A little air from the back side will somnetimes help lift off a softened product.
> 
> ...


Wow! What a fast reply! I didn't want to create a bad impression about Stahls products which we are very pleased to use so I didn't mention them in my post. 

But these twill numbers are a product of Stahls...as used in the NHL Kits. I ordered a set for a customer, not realizing at the time that the kit needed to be sewn as we mistakenly believed we needed only to heatpress the letters/numbers. 

Since the twill comes with glue on them, we thought we could simply press them on, which worked well except for this one letter. We do not do embroidery, yet. So that's how we got ourselves into this issue. Called Stahls but they couldn't get us the chemical in time as it has to be shipped by ground. 

We'll check out the local paint store and will test the garment as you suggested.

Thank you so much.


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## Maineman (May 8, 2007)

This is a message of thanks to Jim. Jim, I used the Methylene Chloride, apparently it's used as a wood floor stripper in the wood floor refinishing industry.

As suggested, I first tested for color fastness in a hidden area of the jersey.

It worked like a charm! I used Q-Tips to apply and scrub the areas and after a couple of minutes the glue was removed. The chemical did not leave a stain, odor or other indication of it's use on the Jersey. 

I reset the errent letter and all went well from there. 

Thanks again.


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## KenS (Apr 27, 2007)

The twill from Stahls is meant to be stitched also. If you dont, after awhile the edges will fray. That is unless it is cut by a laser...... Stahls uses a water jet. The packing/order slip that came with it should state on there some where that it was cut with a water jet.

htt117... you dont seal the twill to the garment? You dont have a problems with the applique puckering away from the fabric?


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## htt117 (Aug 31, 2006)

Most of the twill designs that we do have extensive embroidery through the twill, not just the satin stitch around the outside edge. For example, we have a solid color twill area shaped like a banner. Stitching includes the border around the outside and something like "Cascade Challengers" on the twill area. Often a few stars or baseballs embroidered around the lettering. As long as we are hooped tight to begin with, we have not seen a problem.

It might be different if we were doing something like 10 inch numbers on hockey jerseys where there is a lot of unsupported area between the embroidered edges. We haven't really done that, so I have no experience with it.

Jim


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## Fabcare (Dec 18, 2007)

I also had the problem with glue residue on a hockey jersey. We tried the Methylene Chloride. It seems to start loosening the glue but we can't get it all off. We don't want to scrub too hard and start weakening the jersey. Any suggestions? Thanks.


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## Maineman (May 8, 2007)

Fabcare said:


> I also had the problem with glue residue on a hockey jersey. We tried the Methylene Chloride. It seems to start loosening the glue but we can't get it all off. We don't want to scrub too hard and start weakening the jersey. Any suggestions? Thanks.


 
Methylene Chloride. It's used as a wood floor stripper in the wood floor refinishing industry. Ask for wood floor stripper and look at the contents to find one with M.C. It's available at most Home Stores ie Home depot, Lowes etc.

Regarding the methylene Ch., did you try on both sides of the jersey? It does take time to do this so patience is required. Try warming the area of the jersey with a hair dryer then apply the chemical and see if you get better results. NOTE: METHYLENE CHLORIDE IS FLAMABLE... be sure NOT to open the can before you've warmed up the fabric. Hopefully the warm fabric will help get the glue off.

Lastly STAHLS now makes a chemical for this specific use though they advise using it within a day or so for maximum benefit.


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## Fabcare (Dec 18, 2007)

Thank you Maineman for your quick response. We tried your suggestions but it did not change the outcome. The procedure probably works on most glues but apparently not on this kind. I did contact Stahls and they suggested I use *Dichloromethane *which after doing a little research is the same as *Methylene Chloride* so for now we're going to have to classify this fix as *BUSTED! *Thanks again and have a Merry Christmas!


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## st258 (Mar 14, 2008)

I use old tees that I have messed up to wipe the hot surface. It works right then. I don't know about chemicals. When I'm unsure of my wiping, I put a a teflon sheet to cover the whole printing area of the machine, do a 1 second press, and this gets it off, and I then wipe off the teflon, then wipe with the old shirt again. This forum thing is pretty great. I've haven't done a whole lot of business, but obviously a lot of people have, and know their stuff.
Smitty


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## texemb (Dec 2, 2005)

Have been doing custom applique for about 3 years now. It's a major part of my business.

I just purchased a Roland GX-24 to cut my own twill cause I was spending so much at Stahls.

Have never had a problem with puckering on the twill when it is sewn down. One thing I do different than most is to apply a full satin stitch rather than zig-zag to make the twill stay down. 

I've never seen puckering on the twill. Does the layout stitch not lay out with the twill?


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## st258 (Mar 14, 2008)

"I've never seen puckering on the twill. Does the layout stitch not lay out with the twill?"
I do noy understand what you are saying.
Zigzag stitch is what is required in my sewing. A straight stitch works on background letters, when I mess up applying the leters.
I am thinking of trying something, new to me, of using the straight stitch, as it would save sewing time and thread. The trick is offering something in a local market, that is right, and seems right to the customer at the same time. Time will tell, if I am successful.
Smitty


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