# Dye Sublimation Vs inkjet Transfer



## jackal

Hi folks

kinda new here as well in this business... 

Can somebody please list out the differences,positives n negatives of both these technologies.. which would help me decide on one of these..


cheers


----------



## Solmu

Dye sublimation transfers ink only. The ink becomes part of the garment itself. It is a superior print method.

*However* the ink costs more, the blanks cost more (and are more limiting in styles), and you need to use polyester (or other man made fibre) blanks, which a lot of customers don't like.

Neither can transfer well to dark fabrics, so that's not a difference as such.


----------



## DAGuide

For me, it comes down to what market I am selling to. I sell dye sub shirts starting out at $25 ($20 if I package it with some other stuff like a license plate, mouse pad,...). I has no hand (i.e. feel) to the print and will last longer than other decorating technique. Dye sub also works great on hard substrates (i.e. license plates, mugs, tiles,...). Heat transfers are a cost efficient way of doing short runs when multiple colors are involved. Your cost on blanks, ink and paper are much less expensive for heat transfers than dye sub. I can sell a white t-shirt for $10+ doing heat transfers and be fine. Heat transfers also have a heavier hand to the shirt. However, some markets really like to have a thick print on the shirt. Ultimately, it comes down to what is your target market and what type of products you want to sell.

Both processes are a good compliment with each other so you can provide a product all price ranges and substrates. Sawgrass has a system that allows you to split an Epson 4800 printer to do both dye sub (SubliJet IQ ink) and heat transfer (ChromaBlast ink) from one printer. In two weeks, there will be another product (called MultiRIP) that will allow you to use dye sub ink and a pigment ink as well to do just about anything in your shop (dye sub, screen printing film positives, heat transfers, photographs, invoices,...).

Hope this overview helps.


----------



## jackal

Solmu said:


> Neither can transfer well to dark fabrics, so that's not a difference as such.


i thought Dye-sub is not possible on dark fabric but heat transfer is...!!
am i getting anything wrong...???



DAGuide said:


> Both processes are a good compliment with each other so you can provide a product all price ranges and substrates. Sawgrass has a system that allows you to split an Epson 4800 printer to do both dye sub (SubliJet IQ ink) and heat transfer (ChromaBlast ink) from one printer. In two weeks, there will be another product (called MultiRIP) that will allow you to use dye sub ink and a pigment ink as well to do just about anything in your shop (dye sub, screen printing film positives, heat transfers, photographs, invoices,...).
> 
> Hope this overview helps.


Well nice info will see if it's possible to do that for me here...
a coupla more Q from the noobie..

Can any one tell me about the life of heat transfer prints?
how many washes do they last without cracking etc.

What difference do the hot-split & the cold-peel transfers have in quality

TIA


----------



## Solmu

jackal said:


> i thought Dye-sub is not possible on dark fabric but heat transfer is...!!
> am i getting anything wrong...???


 Neither can transfer *well* to dark fabrics. Using opaque transfer paper digital transfer can indeed transfer to dark fabric. Dye sublimation pretty much can't do dark fabrics - it can dye colours darker, so you might be able to do a black print on red for example, but basically dye sub needs to stick to lights.

So no, you're not getting anything wrong.

Plastisol transfers are better for dark fabrics, but since those are outsourced and all you need is the heat press and blank garments, it doesn't matter which system you are setup to do at home (either way you can use those if you are so inclined).


----------



## monsta imports

I have heard around the place that you can now buy polyester coated cotton tshirts for which you can do sublimation on to is this correct and if so where do I find some cheap ones in Australia?

Daniel


----------



## cprvh

Hanes SoftLinks are a built with plated fabric which is poly on the outside for dye reception and cotton inside for traditional t-shirt feel. Unfortunately, I do not believe there are any "cheap" poly shirts.


----------



## jackal

Solmu said:


> Plastisol transfers are better for dark fabrics, but since those are outsourced and all you need is the heat press and blank garments, it doesn't matter which system you are setup to do at home (either way you can use those if you are so inclined).


Ok got it..!!

What about the life of heat transfer prints... (assuming its done properly with all heat,pressure settings right)


----------



## Twinge

Solmu said:


> Dye sublimation pretty much can't do dark fabrics - it can dye colours darker, so you might be able to do a black print on red for example, but basically dye sub needs to stick to lights.


I think this is a semi-important difference though, and shouldn't be dismissed quite as readily. Normal heat transfers don't generally do to well on anything but white an ash (maybe a light yellow or natural); being able pt rint black on green or orange or red is certainly an advantage.




jackal said:


> What about the life of heat transfer prints... (assuming its done properly with all heat,pressure settings right)


Good. If you use good paper (not opaque) and ink and apply the transfer correctly, it will last a long time. It will probably not last quite as long as screen printing or vinyl, but it will last long enough for a professional quality product.


----------



## monsta imports

The main DIG I have with heat transfer at the moment is th trimming and the transfer left behind if not trimmed or places you can trim.
Dan


----------



## Solmu

Twinge said:


> I think this is a semi-important difference though, and shouldn't be dismissed quite as readily. Normal heat transfers don't generally do to well on anything but white an ash (maybe a light yellow or natural); being able pt rint black on green or orange or red is certainly an advantage.


I'm under the impression that while e.g. black on red technically works, it doesn't look the best.

Dye sublimation has absolutely no problem on light colours though (things like yellow, light blue, grey, pink, etc.) even at full colour, so at the least dye sub isn't restricted to just white and ash.


----------



## cprvh

We printed some pink shirts with a navy blue graphic that looked terrific!! I had my doubts, but they turned out really nice. The contrast was very appealing.


----------



## Twinge

Solmu said:


> I'm under the impression that while e.g. black on red technically works, it doesn't look the best.


Whereas I was more under the impression that it looked fine as long as it was a darker ink. I suppose actually ordering a sample from someone would probably solve such confusion, eh? (Though even easier would be if smoeone with direct experience could drop an answer here =)


----------



## Solmu

I have seen samples of black on red dye sublimation, but unfortunately I don't really remember too well how it looked  The specific red was quite dark, so there wasn't really a lot of contrast (probably not enough contrast). I guess the red garment you use could make a big difference (some reds are definitely too dark, but some may be light enough). I have samples on colours to hand though, which is why I can at least be sure that works.


----------



## D.Evo.

Well, one of my favourite T-shirts is actually Vapor micro-performance Mars-Red with a big black print of a jazz band. I think the print looks great and there is definitely enough contrast. 
I've just spent half-an-hour trying to take a picture of it, but looks like I'll have to play around with the setting on my camera some more or figure out alternative lighting before I post a photo  The fabric is silky and shiny, so the light seems to be bouncing off it and I don't get true colours and definition (on photos it's more like a grey print on an orange shirt).

I'd say you can get very good contrast on red - just, probably, not deep/dark red. I've printed some red swatches with dark green and navy letters - I don't think there was a big problem with contrast, but the ink colour was hardly recognisable, it was just dark and "muddy".

On pink t-shirts you can get great results.

Oh, and I'm not a big fan of Hanes SoftLink - they pill way too much!


----------



## suju

Hi 
I'm new to the business and ready to buy some equipment. But I'm a bit confused about the printers and inks. I want to be able to do heat transfers on t-shirts and also mugs. Should I buy two printers...one with pigment ink and one with sublimation ink? Is that what most people do?

thanks


----------

