# JPSS on Grey



## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Just a quick question here. I'm hoping someone can help me out. 

Does the JPSS leave a noticeable residue on the ash grey cotton tees? 

I have a design I need to print on grey cotton tees but the design is not suitable for vinyl. I've used iron-all before and found that it leaves a noticeable residue on greys and I don't having to explain to customers that it will go away after wash. So, I'm looking for suitable alternatives.

Thanks in advance.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

yes it will you will need to trim.


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Thanks David. I appreciate the info.

Yes, I plan to trim. It's just that the design has a ton of thin lines and very small intricate details within the design where the shirt will show through. It's not a candidate for cad-cutting and weeding. 

I haven't tried the JPSS before and have read many of the threads about it here, but didn't find any specific reference to it's use on grey. 

Thanks again for the response.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

give me about 20 min and I will show you what it looks like and I will not trim so you can see 100 percent cotton


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Here you go it is on cotton and did not trim hope this helps.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

mzmadmax said:


> Just a quick question here. I'm hoping someone can help me out.
> 
> Does the JPSS leave a noticeable residue on the ash grey cotton tees?
> 
> ...


I was under the impression that you were using *Imageclip.* Is there a reason why you are going to inkjet transfer paper?


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

mrdavid, thank you very much!!! That is so very kind of you.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. That definitely answers my questions and now I know EXACTLY what to expect. I've found grey to be strange color to work with at times, and I'm never quite sure beforehand when "light" papers and processes will work with it. 

Thanks again!


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> I was under the impression that you were using *Imageclip.* Is there a reason why you are going to inkjet transfer paper?


Hey Luis,

How are you!

Yes, I do still use imageclip with my laser, but I am also still set up for inkjet transfers, dye sub and cad-cut vinyl as well. 

This particular job could be between 100 - 300 shirts, printed front and back. If I can avoid it, I'd prefer not to have the extra press step and press temp change that I'd have to do with Imageclip. And as I stated before, the design is not suitable for cad-cut or plastisol without modifications. And the artist is very resistant to making the changes that would make it compatible. So I'm just investigating available options before I meet with him to present my final recommendations and pricing.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Maxine where in MI can I ask am here in Lansing


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## stuffnthingz (Oct 1, 2007)

Maxine, since you have a laser printer, have you tried DuraCotton HT? I have had success with it on ash grey sweatshirts. I have similar art to yours with a box border and I just trim with a paper cutter very close to the edge and it comes out fine. I have even used DC HT with borderless (see my second pic). I do prefer the perfection of Image Clip with a dark image on the grey, but with that many to do, ack, what a pain to do it in 2 steps. Let me dig for a picture of something I have on Ash using DCHT and post it. it will just be a few minutes...










and here is my logo on the hood showing a borderless cutout you can barely see the edge:


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

mrdavid said:


> Maxine where in MI can I ask am here in Lansing


Hey, I'm only about an hour southeast of you in Novi. 

Howdy Neighbor!


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Maxine 
I will have some new paper that I would like to send it to you to try it is for ink jet printer sud dye or pigment ink I dont know if it would work for you but it dont hurt to try pm your adress and I can mail it out if you like


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Everett,

Thank you very much!!!

That print does looks impressive on the grey. I do believe my client would find that print acceptable.

How have you found the DuracottonHT to hold up in the wash?

I ordered a 25 sheet test pack of the DuracottonHT about a year ago. But I was never able to get it dialed in to achieve a proper print and press. I'm using an Oki 5500 printer. I had meant to go back and try again, but never really had time.

I think I still have a few sheets left. I'll see if I can find them and give it another try. Do you know if the paper is the same or if they have made any changes to recently?


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

mrdavid said:


> Maxine
> I will have some new paper that I would like to send it to you to try it is for ink jet printer sud dye or pigment ink I dont know if it would work for you but it dont hurt to try pm your adress and I can mail it out if you like


Sure, I'd love to try it! Thank you.

PM sent.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

mrdavid said:


> Here you go it is on cotton and did not trim hope this helps.


Hiya David,

Is that design just supposed to be the black box and skull? That box looks terrible compared to pressing on white shirts and not trimming. Is that what I am seeing? Thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

mzmadmax said:


> Hey Luis,
> 
> How are you!
> 
> ...


Hi Maxine,

I am fine thank you.

I have done an order over 60 pieces front and back and it was not really that time consuming. I would do it anytime regardless of quantity. As you know with imageclip you need not worry about polymer window compared to other transfer papers that exists nowadays. Except sublimation of course.

Another alternative would be the self weeding inkjet transfer paper made in China that David is currently testing. I noticed he already made an offer.


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## stuffnthingz (Oct 1, 2007)

Maxine, I use an Okidata 5800 with a Geo Knight 16 x 20. I found Image Clip to be MUCH more difficult to figure out than Image Clip, which still is a bit difficult for me to use. I have used DC since December, so am not sure if there have been any changes. I use the heaviest pressure, at 400 for 20 seconds and then follow up with a quick 10 sec press with teflon. When I first start I press empty to warm the bottom platen. 

I have shirts that have been washed over and over, there is no hand after one wash and after a few the print has an aged softened look, but the color is still good, not faded looking. In another thread I posted some pics of various papers and think one had a DC image after 7 washes, I will dig it up.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

yes the black box is part of the pic was working on this with dye sud when I seen that some one wanted to see what JPSS would look like not trim on grey shirt so I had every thing set up just did it with JPSS and cotton shirt I would never use JPSS like this just for test


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thank you, David. I would not use JPSS on grey without trimming or adding a background from looking at that pic. It looks like the background is darker than the shirt color. I can go without trimming on a white shirt. On white, it is hardly perceivable, but on gray, much different. I always wondered, so thanks for the pic.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

This is very cool. 

I was just about to post a new thread asking how JPSS worked on ash gray t-shirts, but I figured I'd try my own advice and I used the search box at the top of the page  I typed in JPSS ash and I found this great thread.

Thanks mrdavid for posting the picture of how it turned out. That looks just like when I tried ironall on ash gray t-shirts. I wasn't impressed with the result.

Does everybody get this same result when trying JPSS on ash gray t-shirts, or is there some trick to making it work?

Even inside the black border, the shirt looks discolored in an odd way.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I believe Chani cuts JPSS, with vinyl cutter and weed out the excess, for light shirt. She has a thread about cutting JPSS with pictures.


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

Here is a t-shirt from a job that I'm working on right now. It's a mixture of vinyl text and an image printed on JPSS. I trimmed all the way around the design. It looks pretty good to me


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

pshawny said:


> Here is a t-shirt from a job that I'm working on right now. It's a mixture of vinyl text and an image printed on JPSS. I trimmed all the way around the design. It looks pretty good to me


That is a nicely done shirt. Did you use vinyl cutter to trim around the image? How close did you trim it? What is the make and model of vinyl cutter?

Thanks.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

pshawny said:


> Here is a t-shirt from a job that I'm working on right now. It's a mixture of vinyl text and an image printed on JPSS. I trimmed all the way around the design. It looks pretty good to me


Thanks for the pics! Those photos look good, but if there was any whitespace in the truck graphic, I wonder how it would look 

If you had the text and the truck graphic all done with JPSS is what I would be talking about. Using two different transfer methods wouldn't work for what I wanted to do.


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> That is a nicely done shirt. Did you use vinyl cutter to trim around the image? How close did you trim it? What is the make and model of vinyl cutter?
> 
> Thanks.


 Thanks! I trimmed it by hand. I used my US Cutter for the vinyl. It's a laserpoint model, but I haven't figured out the contour cutting yet.


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

Rodney said:


> Thanks for the pics! Those photos look good, but if there was any whitespace in the truck graphic, I wonder how it would look
> 
> If you had the text and the truck graphic all done with JPSS is what I would be talking about. Using two different transfer methods wouldn't work for what I wanted to do.


I see what you're saying. I think it would be noticeable, but have never tried it to find out. 

If I mess up a shirt today I will sacrifice it to the transfer testing gods & find out.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hiya David,
> 
> Is that design just supposed to be the black box and skull? That box looks terrible compared to pressing on white shirts and not trimming. Is that what I am seeing? Thanks.


That is also "gray" shirt rather then "ash gray"


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

I haven't tried this yet but do you get the same result using light colors such as light blue, light yellow, light pink, etc.?


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## ambitious (Oct 29, 2007)

treadhead said:


> I haven't tried this yet but do you get the same result using light colors such as light blue, light yellow, light pink, etc.?


Good question, i would love to see the results on this.


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## rodsps (Mar 12, 2008)

I just did 2 orders of this type.
I intentionaly used Jerzees "birch" which is the lightest of the ash grays
It looked pretty good and you had to look close to see the polymer residue on the shirt
We did trim the design but by no means was it a close trim, just getting the bulk of scrap away.
I did prototypes first for each customer and both accepted the print.
I also just did 2 pink shirts with a red and tan design. the first shirt was a jerzee 50/50 and it looked ok but the other was a bella baby t and it showed the polymer pretty bad.
So I think the garment texture and composition have some to do with the results also.


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## mzmadmax (Nov 16, 2006)

Below are pictures of a small test logo printed on the sleeve of an ash colored Jerzees 50/50 Heavyweight Blend t-shirt. The transfer is hand cut. A small, uneven border was deliberately left to see how noticeable it would be.

Honestly... it's not that bad. It really shows up much, much more visible in the pictures than it does in person. 

It will be interesting to see if the border is still there after the first wash test.

I can see using this as a low cost alternative to those times where you just need the shirt for a one-time event like a race, or maybe to identify event staff, or for workers like a liquor store, construction or lawn care,or something where they just want a printed shirt and are not out to make an expensive fashion statement. 

Freestanding text might be problematic. But for a design with a definite border, if it were closely and evenly contour or hand cut, I doubt most people would question it. 

_ **Again, I mean "question it" for situations like I mentioned above. I doubt this is going to be the printed product that will sell like hotcakes and land your product on the cover of a fashion magazine, making you a rich, famous fashion tycoon.  

Then again... who would have thought so many folks would buy the pet rocks or raggedy torn up jeans. LOL!!!**
_ 
I will do a wash test in the next day or two and post those results as well.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Now that IS ash gray and the same results I get as well.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

You are right. It shows around the border but it is not bad enough unless you look at it real close. It can't be any worse than any transfer inkjet or laser print. The problem with pressing on grey is the darker colors of the shirts gets even darker with polymer pressed over it. It is even worse on 50/50. Like the grey shirt I use the darker color turns greenish even with the favorite laser transfer paper (Duracotton HT).


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> You are right. It shows around the border but it is not bad enough unless you look at it real close. It can't be any worse than any transfer inkjet or laser print. The problem with pressing on grey is the darker colors of the shirts gets even darker with polymer pressed over it. It is even worse on 50/50. Like the grey shirt I use the darker color turns greenish even with the favorite laser transfer paper (Duracotton HT).


I have had pretty good luck lightening the whole image about 10-15% and then it returns closer to normal when applied. With gray it works pretty well.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

R1Lover said:


> I have had pretty good luck lightening the whole image about 10-15% and then it returns closer to normal when applied. With gray it works pretty well.


I am not really too concerned about the print being darker. It is the polymer in the open area turning dark or greenish because of the streak color in the fabric. It would not be as bad if the shirt is solid ash but somehow there are some streaks of darker gray. Some brands has less and lighter. Others are darker with very light green shade like the one I use.


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

rodsps said:


> I just did 2 orders of this type.
> I intentionaly used Jerzees "birch" which is the lightest of the ash grays
> It looked pretty good and you had to look close to see the polymer residue on the shirt
> We did trim the design but by no means was it a close trim, just getting the bulk of scrap away.
> ...


Thanks for the info Rodney!!


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> I am not really too concerned about the print being darker. It is the polymer in the open area turning dark or greenish because of the streak color in the fabric. It would not be as bad if the shirt is solid ash but somehow there some streaks of darker gray. Some brands has less and lighter. Others are darker with very light green shade I the one I use.


yes I agree, I may have some good news later tonight though, I'm trying something new and will post up if it works.


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## ambitious (Oct 29, 2007)

Sounds good let us know.


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## photoblocks (Apr 30, 2008)

I just did 50 shirts with JPSS on gray didn't know about the yellowing until I finished. It was not a problem on the Hanes ash heavy 5.6oz ( very smooth and less heather then the other ashes) however it really showed up on the jerzey and fruit of the loom (which I really don't like now that I've pressed it). I thought maybe it was the temp or peel time. Is there a better paper for grays and light pinks etc to try? I'm very new at this.


Rodney said:


> This is very cool.
> 
> I was just about to post a new thread asking how JPSS worked on ash gray t-shirts, but I figured I'd try my own advice and I used the search box at the top of the page  I typed in JPSS ash and I found this great thread.
> 
> ...


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