# Cobra Ink, License Plates, and Chromaluxe Panels



## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

I just started doing license plates a few weeks ago with mixed results. A couple of weeks ago, I bought four Chromaluxe panels, and ruined two. THIS IS DUE TO MY BEING NEW TO DYE-SUB PRINTING, NOT THE FAULT OF EITHER MANUFACTURER.

Anyway, the good news is, I figured out what I was doing wrong, and after some experimentation, I have some points to share.

The first license plate came out bad. It had a "mottled" effect on it. I called Richard at Cobra Ink and he suggested leaving on the protective film and printing for 4 minutes. It worked great for the most part, but if there was a bubble or trapped piece of dust between the film and the plate, it showed up as a light spot. 

My first attempt at using the Chromaluxe panel came out with the same results. Mottled, if the film was removed, spotted if left on. (It's a larger panel and more chance of debris being trapped.)

So, with some reading and experimentation, here's what I've learned. From the Conde site, the instructions clearly state to put the license plate FACEDOWN, with the transfer facing up. In other words, heat it from the back. I tried this at 400 deg. for 75 seconds and it comes out beautiful. At first, I used the Prospray adhesive, but found I was getting dust trapped on it, (My fault for taking too much time trying to align the plate on the transfer.) so now, I use the tape. Much better results for me.

Also at Conde's site are the instructions for the Chromaluxe panels. 400 deg. for 90 seconds. Again, heat these from the backside. A problem with this method and the aluminum, is moisture trapped during pressing. I wait a while for the ink to dry and place the transfer in the press, LEFT OPEN, for a couple of minutes to aid drying. I also use a few pages of newspaper on the bottom so I close the press on it for about 10 seconds to make sure it too, is dry.

I haven't had a chance to do more Chromaluxe panels yet. I ordered more from Conde, and they are on the truck "Out for delivery" as I write this. I'll be doing some tonight.

I talked with Tobe Hall at Universal Woods, as they produce the Chromaluxe panels. He was very helpful and offered to print one of the photos on a panel for me to see what it should look like. I sent him a copy file of the photo below. The first copy I made looked like crap - mottled. But the second came out fairly well, with a line down the left side where the protective film peeled during pressing. 

I know this has been a long-winded post, but I hope anyone using Cobra Inks and thinking about license plates or other aluminum substrates will get some benefit from my trials and errors.











dan


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Totally lost - are you saying you are printing with the protective film on the item? Makes zero sense to me but who knows. On any glossy substrate like plates, muggs, etc using spray or even tacky paper will effect the print quality. 

As an FYI - we spent way way more than I ever want to remember on mistakes when we first started. It is part of the process. The more time you spend at it the fewer mistakes.

Continued success.


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

Riderz Ready said:


> Totally lost - are you saying you are printing with the protective film on the item? Makes zero sense to me but who knows. On any glossy substrate like plates, muggs, etc using spray or even tacky paper will effect the print quality.


Yes, it will print very nicely right through the protective film. However, little blemishes will show up. The vapor goes through it with no effect on the color as far as I an see.

I don't know that the spray affected the color, but the time I spent getting it all straight, allowed particles to stick to the transfer paper. Tape works just fine.

dan


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

I have been doing sublimation since 1997 and have NEVER heard of leaving the protective film on...makes no sense. I always remove the film..it is only there to protect the surface. I get good color and images. Also I use sawgrass gel inks. I know, I know many are using other inks.. So I pay more but charge accordingly...customer is happy and so am I.


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## coolbeansgifts (May 24, 2010)

Hmmm I saw some of your first license plates you posted and they were awesome. I have been doing sublimation only about a year and half now ,but I have never left the protective film on the product. I have put it under the heat press a couple of seconds so the film would come off easier to keep from scratch the corners while trying to remove the film.

I like the Chromaluxe products ,because they just about always come out great, as do most unisub products. I have had plenty of redos though on other items such as tiles.
The thing about leaving the protective film on the item confuses the heck out of me also.


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

coolbeansgifts said:


> Hmmm I saw some of your first license plates you posted and they were awesome. I have been doing sublimation only about a year and half now ,but I have never left the protective film on the product. I have put it under the heat press a couple of seconds so the film would come off easier to keep from scratch the corners while trying to remove the film.
> 
> I like the Chromaluxe products ,because they just about always come out great, as do most unisub products. I have had plenty of redos though on other items such as tiles.
> The thing about leaving the protective film on the item confuses the heck out of me also.


 
My first plate came out really crappy and since I bought the ink, paper, and plates, from Cobra, I called Richard and told him about it. He's the one who suggested leaving the film on and using a longer press time. All of my plates have come out great since, with the exception of a couple with tiny (almost totally unnoticable) specks of grit or dust on them. 

These were done transfer face-down - plate face-up. Now I do them reversed and remove the film.

I finally got my shipment of Chromaluxe (about five minutes ago) and have a photo I want to print using the "new to me" method.

I'll post a photo as soon as it's done.


dan


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

I have been sublimating for a few years and do Chromaluxe panels, Sublislate and other products and my advise would be:
1. Don't ask Richard at Cobra how to sublimate, he's a great guy but he sells ink and printers, he doesn't sublimate.
2. never use newspaper in a heat press.
3. never leave the protective film on blank products


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

texasjack49 said:


> I have been sublimating for a few years and do Chromaluxe panels, Sublislate and other products and my advise would be:
> 1. Don't ask Richard at Cobra how to sublimate, he's a great guy but he sells ink and printers, he doesn't sublimate.


Actually, he does. And you can look at the plates I've done and see for yourself, his method works.



> 2. never use newspaper in a heat press.


According to Tobe Hall of Universal Woods Inc., it won't hurt. In fact, a video produced by Sawgrass, reccomends newspaper, however it is without print. No ill effects so far.


> 3. never leave the protective film on blank products


Again, it works.

dan


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Call me foolish but I just had to try this leaving the film on. Not sure why the difference but when I left the film on the license plate the paper fused to the plate and I could not remove it.

Hey if it works for you what the heck but I am pretty sure you are the single person who does it this way.


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

Riderz Ready said:


> Call me foolish but I just had to try this leaving the film on. Not sure why the difference but when I left the film on the license plate the paper fused to the plate and I could not remove it.
> 
> Hey if it works for you what the heck but I am pretty sure you are the single person who does it this way.


How long did you press it? Richard said 4 minutes, but I found 3 1/2 better for my press. This is heat applied to transfer with plate facing up. (Transfer facing down)

The thing is, I don't do it this way anymore. I do it as described in the original post.


BTW - it takes a bit to peel it off, but the film comes off with the paper.
dan


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

Here's my first try doing it the right way. 











dan


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Riderz Ready said:


> Totally lost - are you saying you are printing with the protective film on the item? Makes zero sense to me but who knows. On any glossy substrate like plates, muggs, etc using spray or even tacky paper will effect the print quality.
> 
> As an FYI - we spent way way more than I ever want to remember on mistakes when we first started. It is part of the process. The more time you spend at it the fewer mistakes.
> 
> Continued success.


When I was looking to go with laser sub toner most of them told me to leave the plastic on as it stops any excess toner from going thru and muddling up the image.

I have seen a couple of videos were they press the dye sub inkjet thru the plastic too. I read why but can't recall now. I wanna say helps with excess off gassing but I can't really recall been awhile. I will try to find the links about it.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

DaytonaDan said:


> Actually, he does. And you can look at the plates I've done and see for yourself, his method works.
> According to Tobe Hall of Universal Woods Inc., it won't hurt. In fact, a video produced by Sawgrass, reccomends newspaper, however it is without print. No ill effects so far.
> Again, it works.
> dan


 Last time I talked to Richard a few months ago he said he does not sublimate, maybe that has changed or I misunderstood him.
You originally said "newspaper",that could cause someone to ruin product following that advise. "without print" is a very important omission. Most of us use uncoated white butcher paper which is basically the same thing. I'm printing very high resolution color photos on 16 X 20 Chromaluxe panels and getting great results with brilliant colors with the protective film off. I would still recommend that anyone who wants a really high quality panel to take the film off. Of course, if I see panels better than mine done with the film on, I will switch in a heartbeat.


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## coolbeansgifts (May 24, 2010)

One thing about it ya do some good photos Dan;However,3 1/2 to 4 mins seems like a long time for license plates and aluminum panels.Metal heats up real fast....seems like I never did them over a minute or so maybe 1 1/2 min or so. 

One thing I have learned," in the last year or so" , some of these old sublimation heads know what they are talking about and I am really thankful for that.Some of these guys post have saved me some headaches.


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## DaytonaDan (Jul 12, 2011)

coolbeansgifts said:


> One thing about it ya do some good photos Dan;However,3 1/2 to 4 mins seems like a long time for license plates and aluminum panels.Metal heats up real fast....seems like I never did them over a minute or so maybe 1 1/2 min or so.
> 
> One thing I have learned," in the last year or so" , some of these old sublimation heads know what they are talking about and I am really thankful for that.Some of these guys post have saved me some headaches.


Thank you. Always nice to hear someone appreciates your work.

Please, everyone, I'm not reccomending leaving the film on the plates. After I did the first one and ruined it, Richard told me how he did it. I did about 10-12 that way with good results. HOWEVER, now I'm doing it according to the instructions on the Conde site, and as you can see, (above) the results are better.

I think a lot of people skim over the posts and mis-read or skip parts of the post. Somewhere, something gets lost in translation. 

BTW - I didn't mean to imply Richard does sublimation for a living, but he does do it. If nothing else, he does it to create ICC profiles. But he told me he does license plates, and the 4 minute/400 degrees/film on, is the way he does it.

dan


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

charles95405 said:


> I have been doing sublimation since 1997 and have NEVER heard of leaving the protective film on...makes no sense. I always remove the film..it is only there to protect the surface. I get good color and images. Also I use sawgrass gel inks. I know, I know many are using other inks.. So I pay more but charge accordingly...customer is happy and so am I.


Charles, for inkjet sublimation you are correct, you should always remove the protective film.

There is a reason for keeping the protective film on during transfer and is standard practice for laser sublimation, especially the older magnetic toners. The lasers have backgrounding due to stray toner and this can appear in the open white areas that don't get transfered. So it's not for protecting the surface.

Since you have only sublimating since 1997 and likely haven't used laser sublimation, then explains why you have never heard of it.

Anyway, it's irrevelant and trivia since you are correct, don't do it (don't keep the protective film on) for ink jet.

But as a point of history here is a link that explains the reason for laser sublimating thru protective film.

See #3 in the web page link below

Full Color Laser Sublimation: Color Laser Sublimation Cartridges for the gold and silver trophy metal used in awards

"3. Some products, like the Unisub® coaster to the right, come with a plastic film on the item. There is no backgrounding at all on the coaster because the image was transferred through the film and the film blocked it. After cooling, the laser paper and film were peeled off, just like you would do with regular sublimation metal."


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

DaytonaDan said:


> I just started doing license plates a few weeks ago with mixed results. A couple of weeks ago, I bought four Chromaluxe panels, and ruined two. THIS IS DUE TO MY BEING NEW TO DYE-SUB PRINTING, NOT THE FAULT OF EITHER MANUFACTURER.
> 
> Anyway, the good news is, I figured out what I was doing wrong, and after some experimentation, I have some points to share.
> 
> ...


 

Dan I made some mark up in post above. I haven't done Chromalux panels but I have done a lot of dog tags smaller ID items, and Unisub metal before, the Unisub dog tags are the same stuff, just smaller area.


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## Red Earth (Jan 10, 2008)

Redundant comment but I too have left the protective plastic on. OK, truth is I have forgotten to take it off. Right after the "oh [email protected]#$!" moment I found that it does indeed sublimate just fine. It was quite a surprise and I don't do it on purpose, but I didn't have to throw it across the room either.


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