# Issue with opaque chunk and rough texture prints



## 87rx7chick (Nov 7, 2015)

hi there! 

I am some what new to silk screen printing. Previously I was using green galaxy water based white, but recently switched to a full line of ryonet ryopaque inks including the white. I am having issues with "chunk" or the fact that its not releasing fully from the screen, and/or sometimes the first pass pulls up fibers on the shirt and causes them to stick up creating a rough print with the ink also not releasing well onto the shirt even after print flash print. 

things i have tried :
-reducing with curable reducer 15-20-25-30% and still its chunking on me
-very light initial single pass, flash, print, flash, print (helped)


any help would be appreciated. im printing through 156 mesh as recommended by ryonet for their ryopaque inks. i now think i should be printing though maybe 110 mesh but still, i should be able to print a nice print. the green galaxy white ink printed great but i dont like that ink because it cracks when shirts stretch (may be not cured well i was printing them before i had my good flash drier)

images of the issue:
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x380/acagama1/tshirt issues/20151010_133033.jpg~original

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x380/acagama1/tshirt issues/20151010_133003.jpg~original


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## dheadri (May 24, 2012)

Curable reducer I don't think will help with that problem. I have never really been a fan of ryonetts plastisol inks I prefer Rutland but anyways. I would try a underbase on the green you showed and for the white I like a nice underbase white one without any puff. Also I prefer to use a hard squeeze when printing white like a 80 duro that is just personal preference there it makes it easier to put the ink down and clear the screen for me on a print flash and seems to make a smoother ink deposit.


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## 87rx7chick (Nov 7, 2015)

thank you so much! yeah i dont really like ryonet ink right now ... they have so many videos and i decided to buy one pint of each ryopaque colors thinking it would be a great idea but well guess we live and learn. 

its like the ink is sticking inside the screen so i have to do a dry pass to push the rest of the ink through so it doesnt "chunk" or sticking to the screen and when i pull the screen up it sticks to screen so pulls up ink to create rough texture. 

chunk: heard from a video on ryonet. when the ink stays in the screen with out pressing through creating a chunky look on the shirt itself. 



dheadri said:


> Curable reducer I don't think will help with that problem. I have never really been a fan of ryonetts plastisol inks I prefer Rutland but anyways. I would try a underbase on the green you showed and for the white I like a nice underbase white one without any puff. Also I prefer to use a hard squeeze when printing white like a 80 duro that is just personal preference there it makes it easier to put the ink down and clear the screen for me on a print flash and seems to make a smoother ink deposit.


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

Wilflex has the best inks on the market. Other s may say differently and everyone has their own opinion yet Wilflex will always be on the forefront of innovation within our industry.

e used Wilflex and Rutland inks then went strictly Wilflex. Check out Wilflex PolyOne & Nazdar. I would suggest seeing about getting some samples yet already know you will be much happier with the inks. They aren't cheap though yet worth every penny.

The "Chunk" look like you need to adjust your off contact and or mesh tension. Both those prints should be easily done with #156 mesh. The lower you go with mesh thte more ink your dumping on the shirt. Pretty much going against the soft hand everyone is striving to achieve. 

The deurometer of your squeegee also plays a role.


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## 87rx7chick (Nov 7, 2015)

thank you very much. my off contact was about 1/8 above the shirt. you think that is plenty? im seriously thinking my ink is to sticky. like i said before. when i used water base green galaxy comet white (it came in a starter kit) i had none of these rough texture issues only issue i had was the white cracks on shirts (probably cure issue or crappy ink) i was using a heat gun then. now i use a lovely flash drier 

i dont mind pricey. i just want bad *** prints with none of this aweful texture problem. 




Fluid said:


> Wilflex has the best inks on the market. Other s may say differently and everyone has their own opinion yet Wilflex will always be on the forefront of innovation within our industry.
> 
> e used Wilflex and Rutland inks then went strictly Wilflex. Check out Wilflex PolyOne & Nazdar. I would suggest seeing about getting some samples yet already know you will be much happier with the inks. They aren't cheap though yet worth every penny.
> 
> ...


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

That first print, before flashing is critical. If the first print is rough when you flash it. the high spots are permanent and your only hope after that is to keep layering ink, trying to fill the low spots in like Bondo/filler. While you are fine tuning your technique, I'd thin your ink out however much you have to to get it through the screen with as many passes as you have to. make sure your ink is not to cold. When you flash, just flash until it's dry enough for the next layer of ink to stick, that way , the first layer is a little soft, and the squeegee pressure from the next print may iron the first print a little smoother. While your figuring this out, It's better to spend more time on more flashes and prints with thin ink(with a perfect end result) than to try the fastest way with poor quality.


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## dheadri (May 24, 2012)

I agree with most of what is said I like the Wilflex inks myself they are a great product. 
The last resort to fix what you have would be to smooth it out with a heat press and some parchment paper set the press to 320 and press the image flat again. If you use a teflon sheet it will make some shine to it. I also agree need to check the tension on the screens if the tension is low you may need more off contact but that will still leave you with a ruff finish. I use a roller frames in my shop just to keep the tension high but when I used static frames, I had them remeshed often gsg has a green screen program for 20x24 and larger you may check with your local supplier and see what they can offer as a trade out program like that. You bring in your old frames and they trade them out for remeshed on site so no wait time.


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