# Why does my emulsion keep blowing out?



## ladymare (Apr 4, 2013)

I've been doing heat transfer and vinyl stuff for YEARS now. Husband and I thought "what the hell" and wanted to give screen printing a go because we really have some good ideas that are too technical for vinyl. I think we spend about 3 months watching every youtube video we could find. We started out with a homemade kit and someone else burned my screens. We liked it. Now we've purchased a simple DIY kit from Ryonet and I've unsuccessfully tried to burn 3 screens now. I'm doing all of this in our bathroom as it's the darkest room in the house. I have no idea if I'm laying emulsion too thick, unevenly (looked even) or not curing for long enough. Kit says thin, even, 9 minutes at 12-15 inches. Did all of that and the one "s" blows out EVERY dang time. I had kinkos print my positive and had the guy get it as dark as he possibly could. 

(this is the hybrid emulsion from Ryonet)

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobis!


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## DNeeld (Sep 8, 2010)

Your emulsion needs to be exposed longer. Do a search for a step-wedge test, this will help you narrow down the time.


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

Did you take the glass off your exposure lamp, I'll take it it's the 500w halogen. If no that's your problem. The glass contains UV filters. Although exposure calculators are a ok tool a step wedge is 100x more useful as your using a film you produce and not out of a lab. I have seen wher some use a calculator and then use their own film and are still under exposed because film used in a calculator is clear and printed by a image setter so it not printed on a film with the coating. Inkjet films have coating which further cut down on UV light.

Your under exposed. When you blow out under exposed. When you can't wash out or hard to wash out overexposed or film too light. If your glass is on the fixture remove and retry. If not add a 1-2 min each time till you get a good exposure


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

It's possible that your screen is not evenly coated and your emulsion is thicker in that area. Thus, the exposure parameters for the main body of your screen may be fine, but the thicker emulsion areas do not get exposed properly. If you don't correct the thickness issue of the emulsion, then you may over expose the area that currently washes out in order to hold the image that you are now losing.

Since you are new to this, why don't you get some samples of capillary film? It is much easier to use and obtain quality screens when you haven't mastered the technique to coat screens with liquid emulsion.


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## ehas0430 (Dec 24, 2014)

Here are a few things you can try,

- Putting emulsion on both sides of the screen helps make a stronger stencil.

- use more water pressure, if you are using low pressure for a long period of time the emulsion starts to absorb water and wash away you need to hit it hard and fast what i usually do is when it is done burning immediately spray light water on both sides let it soak for about 30 seconds them blast it out.

- expose the screen longer, i did it in increments of 2 more minutes at a time until i found that sweet spot.

- make sure you are putting emulsion on evenly if you are putting to much on in certin spots and you need to keep blowing at it with water eventually it will just peel off.

- are you using cheap emulsion like the speedball brand stuff? try using like SAATI HU or Ryonet WBX Hybrid Emulsion they have are more water resistant then most.. atleast in my experiences they have been


also are you rubbing the screen with your fingers? you may be doing it to much or two hard if you are


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## ladymare (Apr 4, 2013)

Thank you all!!! Wow! I think most of my problem is getting it on evenly. Any tips for a more even application or just more practice? I'm coating both sides now as thin as I can get them. 

I'll look into the capillary sheets! I had seen them before but then I still wouldn't have practice applying emulsion. I guess I'll keep playing with it. I'm using water based inks right now to just play with. 

I ordered some more WR emulsion so I guess this weekend will be a lot of burning and reclaiming.


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

Sharp edge, hard pressure quicker stroke. I pefer the Saati Chem PHU it's thicker so a nice hard push 2/1 makes about a 20 micron stencil. Maybe a little thicker then most but it's what I pefer. The thicker the stencil the longer the exposure. As long as it even. Cap film gets expensive. I actually kinda make my own for thick stencils up to 100 micron. Coat a screen let dry then only coat the shirt side with a monster coater. 

A big mistake is tilting the the coater against the screen. I use the tilt to control the amount of emulsion that's applied. You will need to find your own technique.


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## ladymare (Apr 4, 2013)

Update: I finally had a successful screen this weekend. I am ridiculously proud of it. I found that sweet spot for how thick I've been applying my emulsion vs my bulb height vs exposure time. I tried two hand method for laying on emulsion as per some youtube videos and let me tell you about all the emulsion I had to clean up! So back to one hand. I exposed at 18 inches for 10 minutes 30 seconds (I've been slowly increasing this time since none have turned out yet) and it washed out beautifully. 

Finally got to screen some of my own shirts with an original design from start to finish. I couldn't be any prouder.


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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

Well done!
Congratulations!


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## joethesignguy (Aug 28, 2013)

this may help when washing out you screen use a soft sponge first squeeze water on the most expose side of screen wait then gently rub area of design wash with pressure washer stand back be gentle and dont get to close just enough to get it done never to much blow out area with air compressor or reverse vacume cleaner


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## davej42 (Sep 14, 2007)

One real issue is the printing of the films. If you are not having them printed with a black max type ink it just doesn't work well. I printed my positives on a Epson printer using Epson ink for 4 years and always had issues with washout and exposure until i added a black cartridge for printing positives.


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## DecalAvenue (Sep 4, 2014)

Good job.

Also if you continue having problems, you can try emulsion sheets, I think they can help you start, Im going to try them.


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## bishop1951 (Nov 2, 2012)

ladymare said:


> Update: I finally had a successful screen this weekend. I am ridiculously proud of it. I found that sweet spot for how thick I've been applying my emulsion vs my bulb height vs exposure time. I tried two hand method for laying on emulsion as per some youtube videos and let me tell you about all the emulsion I had to clean up! So back to one hand. I exposed at 18 inches for 10 minutes 30 seconds (I've been slowly increasing this time since none have turned out yet) and it washed out beautifully.
> 
> Finally got to screen some of my own shirts with an original design from start to finish. I couldn't be any prouder.


Congratulations on your accomplishment! Since I'm a "NEWBIE" at screenpring too, I know the feeling you are experiencing right now. Wishing you all the best in your future endeavors.

Blessings...


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

davej42 said:


> One real issue is the printing of the films. If you are not having them printed with a black max type ink it just doesn't work well. I printed my positives on a Epson printer using Epson ink for 4 years and always had issues with washout and exposure until i added a black cartridge for printing positives.


Since the OP was blowing out under exposure is the problem. If it wasn't wasing out then over exposure or film issues would be the problem. Not sure why you were having problems but Epsons Claria(dye based) and their pigment inks have some of the best UV blocking abilities. The only reason I buy other ink is due to price, and I print black from all channels out of all the screen printing inks I have tried which includes, Epson, Blackmaxx, Film Direct, ink 2 image, hotzone360, Cobra, and a few other I can't remember names of. The best to date is the ink 2 image for screen positives.


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