# printing on a nylon mesh jersey



## pioneer (Mar 7, 2007)

I was wondering what is the best way to screen print a logo on a nylon football jersey? Also what mesh screen is best, the jersey is royal blue with white letters and a football helmet.

Thanks Rob


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## SilkscreenQueen (Apr 7, 2007)

We'd use direct print nylon ink from International Coatings with the catalyst and a finer mesh screen like 125.


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## Bill Hood (Apr 11, 2007)

The trick is to print on the surface of the garment and not deep into the mesh. Use good tension on an open mesh with a light touch!


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

your palettes will get ink due tot he mesh jerseys. We stock 11X17 paper. Spray tack to palette and print the design as normal. remove the paper and replace wit a new sheet for each garment.

This all depends on the size of the mesh as the smaller mesh doesnt seem to be that big of an issue


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## Bill Hood (Apr 11, 2007)

Fluid said:


> your palettes will get ink due tot he mesh jerseys. We stock 11X17 paper. Spray tack to palette and print the design as normal. remove the paper and replace wit a new sheet for each garment.
> 
> This all depends on the size of the mesh as the smaller mesh doesnt seem to be that big of an issue


My point was and still is that you will not get ink on your platens if you print on the surface of the shirt. The ink will only transfer to the top surface of the shirt, i.e. not the openings. You will need screens with the correct amount of tension and the correct off content. Again, if you have the right tools and use them properly, there is no need for bandaids and fixes. Why go to expense of buying paper, spray tacking it to the platens, and then removing the paper with the platens, using a new sheet for each garment.

This may be fine for someone with more money and time to waste but won't fly in the real world of production and making money, which I believe is the whole point of being in this business.


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## neato (Mar 21, 2006)

Bill Hood said:


> My point was and still is that you will not get ink on your platens if you print on the surface of the shirt. The ink will only transfer to the top surface of the shirt, i.e. not the openings. You will need screens with the correct amount of tension and the correct off content. Again, if you have the right tools and use them properly, there is no need for bandaids and fixes. Why go to expense of buying paper, spray tacking it to the platens, and then removing the paper with the platens, using a new sheet for each garment.
> 
> This may be fine for someone with more money and time to waste but won't fly in the real world of production and making money, which I believe is the whole point of being in this business.


Real world conditions also say that sometimes printing on the surface with white ink isn't going to happen, especially the first time experimenting with ink/mesh. 

Fluid is right about the paper. I do that as well. It works fine for mesh with larger holes. And again, if the holes are small enough, it's not even an issue. It will take some experimenting.

Jerseys are much easier to print on than you might initially think. I've always been happy with the way they turn out.


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

Bill I have had my own shop for 10 years and I produce quite a bit of prints daily. Obviously printing on the garment is the best option, heck thats what we're supposed to do. unfortunately most do not print correctly. I can go in almost any manual and automatic shop and will see imprints on the platens from the printers printing way too hard. I gave a real world tip that works, is only adding may 15 sec per shirt if that.
You have to crawl before you can walk. Its easy to say do it this way as its the correct way. I serious doubt you did everything by the book, to a T and perfectly starting out or trying a new process

"if you have the right tools". This is a huge statement a most do not have the right tools. They are using home made equipment, old press, warped wooden screens. many variable will come into play. My method fits the bill perfectly and will not effect profits on numbers per hour.


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## pioneer (Mar 7, 2007)

Thanks everyone. Richard i will try your way. I'm new to all this. What is the best paper to use? and do you run the paper in the drier or take it off before you cure it?

thanks Rob


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## KEB (Jun 29, 2006)

Another alternative would be to use a cad material that is designed for use on nylon mesh, and cut the logos using a cutter and then heat apply them to the jersey. Or, find a custom transfer company that will print transfers for you that can go on nylon mesh. It might seem like it will cost more, but in the long run, think of all the time you'll be saving.


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## pioneer (Mar 7, 2007)

thanks I have to print 150 jerseys. I have a heat press I think screen printing is the way to go for this run 

Thanks again 
Rob


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## Fluid (Jun 20, 2005)

We use regular cheap copy paper. lightly mist the palette with spray tack to hold the paper in place, mist tack agan for the jersey to stay in palace and print like you normally do. As Bill mentioned its best to lay the ink n the shirt and not pound into the garment/jersey holes. The paper will help to keep the production speed up, yet you will want to learn to control the variables so you will not have to use paper in the future. After a lot of this type of printing you'll get the hang of it


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## teezecrost (May 9, 2007)

Bill Hood said:


> My point was and still is that you will not get ink on your platens if you print on the surface of the shirt. The ink will only transfer to the top surface of the shirt, i.e. not the openings. You will need screens with the correct amount of tension and the correct off content.


Hey, everyone. I recently did my 1st run of polyester mesh basketball jerseys. I really wanted to use Bill's advice and just print to the surface of the jersey, but I had to resort to sticking down transfer sheets, which was totally annoying.

I was using a 160 mesh for my underbase (recently retensioned roller frame) with a good amount of off-contact (was getting no sticking issues), and I tried a variety of ink consistencies, thinning in stages. I did 1 flood stroke, and then a 45 degree pull stroke, and then usually another pull stroke or more vertical pull stroke to clear the screen. 

No matter what I did, the only thing that would completely fill the knit was a hard pull stroke. unfortunately, this would always fill at least some of the jersey mesh holes, at which point I might as well just fill them all for consistency and a smooth finished graphic.

Anyone have any advice? Could it be my squeegees? I've provided a close-up shot below. Thanks for any input!


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## teezecrost (May 9, 2007)

Nobody? Should I repost in a fresh post maybe?


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

Here is what I do. Apply waterbase adhesive to platen. Then print flash print. Don't over flash here is the key. Apply any other top colors. Slowly lift from the bottom at a 45 degree and the holes are left on platen. Then I flash the platen take a vinyl squeegee scrap the ink and re flash. It takes extra time and I am Very seriously considering quitting printing these jerseys. I get request all the time because mine have 99% of the mesh open and everyone's eles look like your pic. I have converted everyone here locally to solid jerseys. I may just raise the prices so I am making the same amount if I were doing a large run of shirts. I still make ok money but I can make a lot more doing other garments.


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