# How to have white background on polyester garment by sublimation



## creativeeyemedia (Jun 30, 2013)

I need to Print on 100% Polyester Hi Vis Vests. The image has light green colour which can't be seen on yellow background. The client wants now white background and then his logo printed over it.

Is there any way I can have white background with sublimation method on 100% Polyester?

THanks in advance.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

There is no white ink in dye sublimation. What about just regular screen printing with plastisol?


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

for safety vest you can use patches or twill transfers that are white. we use Thermoflex twill transfers white on a lot of extras like that. corral has the safety green color so you can match the background when you dye sublimation.

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## Imaginative (Aug 10, 2013)

I'd say to use a subli block vinyl, print your image onto that, cut and weed it as normal then press it on that way. I had to buy some when I was doing football and racing shirts. Stuff I used was from forever, was bloody expensive per sheet but it was good quality and hard wearing. Mind you, that was 7 years ago so chances are there are 1,000,001 similar products available now.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

jfisk3475 said:


> for safety vest you can use patches or twill transfers that are white. we use Thermoflex twill transfers white on a lot of extras like that. corral has the safety green color so you can match the background when you dye sublimation.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T679 using T-Shirt Forums


I recall maybe a week ago or so you mentioned using Thermoflex white twill since it can be subbed.

I forgot to ask how is the hand on it and washabilty ... any cracking issues after extended washing?

I'm not happy now with any of the Opaque solution for pigment inkjet, so looking at twill perhaps for all kind of shirts.

thx


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

I have not had as much success printing to Subliblock, but Subliflock (F not B) is acceptable. 

Laser Reproductions sells some printable polyester flock material by the sheet; most others sell by the roll, and it can get expensive unless you buy a full roll.

In my experience the edges of twill fray unless it's sewn down (or maybe treated with Fray-check or something similar). Maybe there's a product that doesn't require this, but I tried several and all could be washed maybe 4-5 times before showing signs of fraying. Maybe it also depends on the type of fabric it's pressed to.


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## nerdhaven (Jul 10, 2013)

You could use a laser sublimation transfer with white toner. Its a 1 step process, easiest way I know of. All the other ways are a 2 step process.


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

Laser really is not sublimation. It is a transfer. Sublimation is changing the color of the threads. Laser sits on top of fabric. 

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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

jfisk3475 said:


> Laser really is not sublimation. It is a transfer. Sublimation is changing the color of the threads. Laser sits on top of fabric.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T679 using T-Shirt Forums


There is laser sublimation, and it is true sublimation, I have a system. The white toner can be used with either regular toner or sub toner. The white toner would act as a sublimatable surface, but the white itself contains no sub dye. CMYK can be laser sub.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

GordonM said:


> I have not had as much success printing to Subliblock, but Subliflock (F not B) is acceptable.
> 
> Laser Reproductions sells some printable polyester flock material by the sheet; most others sell by the roll, and it can get expensive unless you buy a full roll.
> 
> In my experience the edges of twill fray unless it's sewn down (or maybe treated with Fray-check or something similar). Maybe there's a product that doesn't require this, but I tried several and all could be washed maybe 4-5 times before showing signs of fraying. Maybe it also depends on the type of fabric it's pressed to.


 
Thx, fraying would be a deal breaker for me.


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## wishes1 (Aug 15, 2011)

I think Subliflock would be your best bet


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## nerdhaven (Jul 10, 2013)

wishes1 said:


> I think Subliflock would be your best bet


With Subliflock do you have to make 2 transfers? 1 to apply the white, and then the second you have to align it to the white and apply the color?

If so, laser is better in my opinion. you coat the transfer with white toner, and heat press it just once to the garment. 

I could be wrong though.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

nerdhaven said:


> With Subliflock do you have to make 2 transfers? 1 to apply the white, and then the second you have to align it to the white and apply the color?


Subliflock is a white flock-like fabric made of 100% polyester. So it's like printing on any polyester fabric with sub inks. The main benefits are:

1. It is cuttable with a cutter/plotter

2. It has a fusible backing that turns it into an iron-on patch.

Some companies sell variations. Coastal's product includes a separate fusible backing.

You can create your own subbable fabrics if you need to vary the texture and thickness, and depending on how it's cut. Most any fabric store will carry a wide variety of Pellon interfacing fabrics that are white, 100% poly, and with varying types of fusible backing (or no fusing at all). All except the very thin fabrics can be cut with a plotter/cutter or a die cut machine. 

I use several Pellon varieties to make all-fabric coasters that cost about 10 cents each in materials. They are gang-printed on a large sheet, cut with an ordinary rotary paper cutter, and corner trimmed with a corner cutter. 

The same concept can be used for poly fabrics that are heat pressed onto a garment. The downside to all of this is that it's a thicker material than traditional inkjet or laser color transfers. Still, I use this fact to my advantage, making iron-on patches of things like fuzzy bears for decorating kid's items. 

The twill mentioned above would be quite thin, and would have no nap, unlike the flocks. It would be great if one were found that did not fray in the wash.


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

The twill feels like the shirt. A little stiff until washed a couple times. Call and get a sample from them. I have one that we washed 200 xs and image looks like new. It is like the ink jet trans but can be cut on cutter and is fabric so it blends in better and not look like a sheet of plastic. We buy cheep flipflops and put it on them. Cheaper than premade. Uses are unlimitted so far.

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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

jfisk3475 said:


> The twill feels like the shirt. A little stiff until washed a couple times. Call and get a sample from them. I have one that we washed 200 xs and image looks like new. It is like the ink jet trans but can be cut on cutter and is fabric so it blends in better and not look like a sheet of plastic. We buy cheep flipflops and put it on them. Cheaper than premade. Uses are unlimitted so far.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T679 using T-Shirt Forums


thx. Does that particular brand you use fray? I think I will still play with it though, for example, I might not do flip flops but can see other cases where it might provide some similar utility.


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

it does not but I do take precaution and melt the edges with a little flame. the first test ones I did I did not melt the edges and still looks like a fresh cut

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## Jason's_Place (Nov 1, 2009)

This is interesting..... You buy (a roll? a sheet?) of polyester twill, sublimate your design on it, countour cut with plotter, then heat set it? Do I have all of that right so far?


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

That is right. Make sure you use teflon under it when pressing so it dont stick to press. and print your registration marks on the fabric before you cut. and we buy it by the roll.

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## Jason's_Place (Nov 1, 2009)

I saw where someone said thermoflex is the brand. I would like to try some. I am guessing you would not do a vary large print with this method but just patches and such?


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## jfisk3475 (Jan 28, 2011)

15" wide. Make sure to get the twill. 

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