# Half tone Colors in Photoshop and Illustrator



## kenfuji

I noticed there were some questions on halftone colors and how to create them while doing some searching around, so I figured I'll create a thread for those still new to PS and wanting to know an easy way to make a half tone layer.

For this tutorial i used Photoshop CS, but it should be pretty much all the same or similar for other version of PS

-first i created a layer with the gradiant box to convert to a halftone.

the process is pretty simple:
In PS go to *filters > Pixelate > Color Halftone*
In Illustrator it will be *Effects > Pixelate > Color Halftone*











now choose your variables for the halftone options










now you should see an image similar to the one below either in rgb or cmyk










Since we want it to be black & white for our screens unclick 2 colors for rgb and unclick cyan, magenta and yellow for CMYK










You should get something like the image above.
now you can print it out and get it ready to expose your first halftone screen 

*Additional stuff:*
When applying the filter you can adjust the radius of the halftone to get a finer pattern. also depending on the dpi of the artwork and the detail and type of your screen you should be able to get some nice result. For illustrator you want to use the Effect tools instead of filters unless you want to rasterize your work.

It's a pretty basic tutorial, but i figured it might help some folks out who are still learning the in's and outs of usins PS and illustrator.

hope someone finds it helpful.


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## Rodney

Thanks for the nice tutorial, Ken!


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## Fluid

If you have a PS printer or rip software all you need to do is specify the dot size, shape and angle in the print engine. This is very useful info if you do not have a PS printer. Great job.


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## kenfuji

np, glad you guys liked my first write up


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## MotoskinGraphix

Nice Work!


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## AddVenture

right on! i always love seeing something i hadn'd known before.

hey, ken, i tried this effect in illustrator and i can't seem to get it to stay vector. i did it through the effects and not the filters like you said. is there something i'm missing?


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## kenfuji

the vector shape and lines you have should stay a vector. the only thing that changes is the gradiant pattern or spot of color to a half tone pattern. if you want the halftones as vectorized patter, the only thing i can think is to use the trace tool or manually trace in a different layer.


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## Vtec44

Nice tutorial!


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## benthiam

Cool tutorial!


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## BEatMaKeR

Is there a rule of thumb for applying this effect to 300dpi images such as max radius pixels, line screen settings per colors, etc?


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## Dickiejones33

good tutorial!


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## TehCatt

very good tutorial. i was gonna post a new topic about half tones but this answered all of my questions.


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## bluboy26

Thanx man - great tutorial. I use photoshop to manipulate my graphix but end up spending hours getting everything just perfect.

Much love homies

Martin


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## JeridHill

The only problem is, you don't have control of your frequency, like a 45 dot per square inch, etc. This is the type of halftoning that I can't figure out when using photoshop.

There is another way to apply halftones to your images and be able to control it when using photoshop. There is a tutorial somewhere on these boards for it.


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## tpitman

To output halftones directly from Illustrator (or Corel, for that matter), you'll either need a RIP, a postscript printer, or use Ghostscript.

Here's how in Photoshop:

1. If you're working with 4-color, duplicate your file, open the duplicate, make sure the layers are flattened, then select Split Channels. This will give you a file for each of the four colors as grayscale.

2. Select one of the 4 files, and in the Image menu at the top, select Mode, and then Bitmap. You'll get a dialog box asking a method to convert, and you'll select Halftone. Press Okay, and you'll get another dialog box where you can specify your screen angle, lines per inch, and dot shape. Make your choices and save the file. Additionally, once you know what screen angle, dot shape and linescreen you want to use for that particular color, you can record an action for each separation and just play it for that color after you split the channels . . . pretty much push-button halftone seps the next time you need to make halftones. You need an action for each color since the screen angle will change for each one, unless you're doing spot color or simulated process. You'll need to make additional action sets for different linescreens (45, 50, 55, etc.) if you use different ones for any reason.


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## dedenfite

great article 
this very usefull for me thank's bro


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## nrmetson

cool I've been looking for this effect for a while


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## TGL23

where can i edit the colors for halftones in illustrator?... i get change them around but i can never seem to get just an original black and white


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## Ujudgnme2

I hope my quest makes sense:

I have created a screen in class last year and the printed tshirt looks like a painting.

We did something wrong.

Playing with the 45 dots per line and 100 dots per line, what does it mean? how does it associate with the actual printing of the tshirt?

I see 100 creates more dots, but but does this mean when I print I will have more detail or does 45 give more detail?




tpitman said:


> To output halftones directly from Illustrator (or Corel, for that matter), you'll either need a RIP, a postscript printer, or use Ghostscript.
> 
> Here's how in Photoshop:
> 
> 1. If you're working with 4-color, duplicate your file, open the duplicate, make sure the layers are flattened, then select Split Channels. This will give you a file for each of the four colors as grayscale.
> 
> 2. Select one of the 4 files, and in the Image menu at the top, select Mode, and then Bitmap. You'll get a dialog box asking a method to convert, and you'll select Halftone. Press Okay, and you'll get another dialog box where you can specify your screen angle, lines per inch, and dot shape. Make your choices and save the file. Additionally, once you know what screen angle, dot shape and linescreen you want to use for that particular color, you can record an action for each separation and just play it for that color after you split the channels . . . pretty much push-button halftone seps the next time you need to make halftones. You need an action for each color since the screen angle will change for each one, unless you're doing spot color or simulated process. You'll need to make additional action sets for different linescreens (45, 50, 55, etc.) if you use different ones for any reason.


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## tpitman

100 lines per inch will give you more detail than 45 lines per inch, but the maximum you'll ever likely print on a t-shirt might be 65 lines on an automatic press, and 55 on a manual. The 45 line per inch halftone is easier to manage, both in developing the screen and on press, though the halftone dots will be a little more noticable. The shirt material tends to soften the impact of the dot anyway. 50 lines per inch yields a nice print. Your exposure unit will also play a part in linescreen selection, as well as mesh count. You should have a vacuum blanket on your exposure unit if you're doing halftones to hold the best halftone dot definition.


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## DougieN13

Thankyou helped lots


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## tartoosh

thanks being very usful


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## ino

Thanks for the tutorial, just keep them rolling.


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## Bill Hood

Actually, you can use the same angle on all colors, regardless of the number of colors. Most screenprinters use an angle of 22-degrees and never have a problem with moire.


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## tpitman

Bill Hood said:


> Actually, you can use the same angle on all colors, regardless of the number of colors. Most screenprinters use an angle of 22-degrees and never have a problem with moire.


You're correct for single color halftones or simulated process, but for 4-color process the angles need to be different to get the overlap of dots, although I read on one of these forums someone claims to use 75 degrees for all 4 colors and prints successfully. There are discussions elsewhere on this forum and over at screenprinters.net that debate different angle combinations that work.


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## cta2008

anyone have a tutorial usint corel?


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## Rodney

cta2008 said:


> anyone have a tutorial usint corel?


I think you can find some in google (or the forums) if you search for *halftones in coreldraw* tutorial


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## Tmacker

Thanks for the tip!!
Nicely done


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## Blue_Fairy_Quest

I just wanted to say Thanks for the information. Know I wont be second guessing if I am doing it right. I have been avoiding doing halftones but with this formula you have help me take another step forward. Thank you and Blessings,
Sandy


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## PositiveDave

Dots from Photoshop are BAD.
They will give tone jumps and encourage drying-in of screens.
Here's an article on the subject:
Halftone Dots, a guide to their use and choice: GoArticles.com


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## fajaryayat

i love halftone 
thanks


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## abcdrs

Nice tutorial Ken..
Keep posting...


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## heathernew09

I decided it worked best for me to use the effect just like advised uptop and then Object/expand appearance, then livetrace with the color option (choosing the minimum amount of colors and expanding them. The downside is that I had to manually pluck the extra color from the gradient/half that I didn't want after it was vectored because I was going for one color but with a wacom it doesn't take that much time.


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## Bill Hood

tpitman said:


> You're correct for single color halftones or simulated process, but for 4-color process the angles need to be different to get the overlap of dots, although I read on one of these forums someone claims to use 75 degrees for all 4 colors and prints successfully. There are discussions elsewhere on this forum and over at screenprinters.net that debate different angle combinations that work.


Tom, you may want to rethink that the angles need to be different. There is no basis for this statement other than perhaps you read it somewhere. This is the reason there are so many myths in this industry.

The Internet is a fickle thing. Anyone can make a statement and it begins to spread like wildfire and pretty soon everyone believes it to be true. It is always best to make statements that you have some practical experience with. Why not simply try outputting a sample 4-color process job with all angles set to 22.5 degrees and see the results yourself. 

I did this when Richard Greaves first proposed this angle at a meeting at Kings Fish House years ago and it worked, not just for me but for the other 5 people at the table, as well.

If more people would actually do what they talk of, we'd have far less confusion in this industry and the industry would start growing again, as it did before the Internet.


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## sben763

Did Bill just wake up.... Responding to a almost 4 year old post....I know Bill is considered a knowlageable person in the industry but he seems to be stuck on doing things as industry standards. I not saying this not always a good thing but if everyone always followed the rules we definitely wouldn't have some of the cool techniques and equipment in use today. If just starting out its best to stick to the rules until you learn how to break them.


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## Bill Hood

sben763 said:


> Did Bill just wake up.... Responding to a almost 4 year old post....I know Bill is considered a knowlageable person in the industry but he seems to be stuck on doing things as industry standards. I not saying this not always a good thing but if everyone always followed the rules we definitely wouldn't have some of the cool techniques and equipment in use today. If just starting out its best to stick to the rules until you learn how to break them.


Hmmm... "just woke up" seems to be the basis of your discussion. We do follow rules, learning from the rules and then we move forward, i.e. wake up and create innovations of the existent premises to make the world a better place. No?

There must be some basis for innovation, correct?

Yes, the post was years old, but incorrect. Should we allow incorrect thought to continue to exist and spread disease or should we attempt to cure the disease at some point?


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## sben763

Bill Hood said:


> Hmmm... "just woke up" seems to be the basis of your discussion. We do follow rules, learning from the rules and then we move forward, i.e. wake up and create innovations of the existent premises to make the world a better place. No?
> 
> There must be some basis for innovation, correct?
> 
> Yes, the post was years old, but incorrect. Should we allow incorrect thought to continue to exist and spread disease or should we attempt to cure the disease at some point?


Bill no disrespect was intended was more of a laugh. Although 1 of the reasons I thought I poke a little bit is you have said on several post in at least 2 diffrent threads that quality printer don't hang around the forums which to me is insulting not only to me but any other member that has posted here. Oh yea by the way not the first time posted to a year or older post. 

The whole point of my post was yes you can use the standard 22.5 angle and get quality prints but I personally have found changing the angles can be the edge you need to be that extra a shop needs over the shop down the road. So thinking outside the ink bucket may be just what someone needs to do to become a better shop. 

Happy Holidays to ALL


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## Bill Hood

sben763 said:


> Bill no disrespect was intended was more of a laugh. Although 1 of the reasons I thought I poke a little bit is you have said on several post in at least 2 diffrent threads that quality printer don't hang around the forums which to me is insulting not only to me but any other member that has posted here. Oh yea by the way not the first time posted to a year or older post.
> 
> The whole point of my post was yes you can use the standard 22.5 angle and get quality prints but I personally have found changing the angles can be the edge you need to be that extra a shop needs over the shop down the road. So thinking outside the ink bucket may be just what someone needs to do to become a better shop.


Point made. While we do not agree, it is par for the future of innovation, no?


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## sben763

Bill Hood said:


> Point made. While we do not agree, it is par for the future of innovation, no?


Yes sir. If everyone always agreed and followed rules to the t...we still be wearing nothing or animal skins. Bill have a great weekend.


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## chewbacca

hi, i've been screen printing for almost a year now, doing 1-4 color designs, but now i want to tackle half tones. this how to is great, but i'm still a little confused. i have a black and white image that i want to half tone and print over a white oval to recreate the image as best as possible. i open the image (i'm using PS cs5, by the way), go to the filter, now here is my first issue: i keep reading about lines per inch, etc.., but the box asks for max radius and angles. i read 22.5 is a good angle, but it won't let me use the .5, so say 25?, and the max radius? when i mess with that the dots get huge and it barely looks like the image. then i uncheck 2 in rgb so its b&w, but it doesn't change the pic much in the end. am i missing something?


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## tpitman

What you need to do is convert the image to grayscale (Mode/Grayscale). Then Mode/Bitmap wherein you'll make several choices in the subsequent dialog boxes. First, select Halftone Screen in the Method menu, then select your angle/frequency/dot shape, and save the file with a new name so you can go back to the original if you need to. Print this file to your printer, or you can place it in CorelDraw or Illustrator to add vector images or text.
Otherwise, in CS5 Photoshop, Adobe dropped the options in the print dialog box wherein you could adjust screen angles/frequency/shape to output the grayscale files directly to the printer. If you use Ghostscript, find a Postscript printer driver that will accommodate the size of your film, select that driver in the print dialog box, then print to file, or as a pdf. If you have InDesign or Illustrator, you can place the grayscale image in either, then make the halftone selections in the print dialog box and print to a postscript device/Ghostscript/RIP.


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## tpitman

And to Bill's point about not needing different screen angles, yes, he's correct (as are others). There is, however, the possibility of an effect known a strobing which can become apparent if there is misregistration, wherein you'll what appears to be lines running through the image on a diagonal matching the screen angle. A former member of this forum who no longer posts, and who regrettably deleted his posts, had a good explanation along with photos describing this phenomenon.
For what it's worth, I usually print at 22.5 degrees, which now seems to be the new norm.


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## TYGERON

tpitman said:


> A former member of this forum who no longer posts, and who regrettably deleted his posts, had a good explanation along with photos describing this phenomenon.
> For what it's worth, I usually print at 22.5 degrees, which now seems to be the new norm.


I gotta try the 22.5 thing more. Did it once and wasn't feeling it. Need to take some play time!

And the poster you mentioned I remember from waaaay early on. Phenomenal stuff. Did a Dalai Lama print, right? What happened to him?


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## tpitman

Yup. Fred. Had a shop just north of Atlanta. He posted for awhile on a couple of other forums. Knew postscript inside and out. I think just about all he did was process color, and his business model was based on that, if I'm not mistaken.
Now, not to muddle things, but what I'd like to figure out with some consistency is doing stochastic process color, which again, if I'm not mistaken, is essentially dithered halftones vs. screened halftones. It's done, but not discussed much, even in an offset printing environment. The advantages are you eliminate moire, and dot gain in the sense that tint percentages change as the dot's swell up. I started putzing around with it about a year and a half ago, got busy, moved, and so it goes. From what I've read, a 200 dpi image reproduces at something like the equivalent of 65 lpi and holds the lighter end of tints better, since if you can hold one dot, you can hold them all, vs screened halftones where many of us start to lose halftone dots as we get lighter than 10% or so. A 200 dpi dot can be held on 305 mesh. I'll have to start putzing around with it again when the dust settles down. Just finished a large (for me) job I do this time every year.
Needless to say, anyone with some knowledge about this is encouraged to pipe up.


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## amdivoff

i just found this halftone plugin for Illustrator! wow looks super nice

Phantasm CS Designer version 2


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## tpitman

amdivoff said:


> i just found this halftone plugin for Illustrator! wow looks super nice
> 
> Phantasm CS Designer version 2


I've got that. The halftone feature is kinda sorta okay . . . the edges aren't always clean where the halftone meets the path.

I haven't had a need for the curves feature, but it's something I can see some utility for.


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## Quantum Leap

Ken, you're a genius. I can't believe you're the only person who knows this!! Or at least only person who can explain it!! I think my dot sizes were all the same size because I was selecting 45 for all my angles. What should I select to get varying size dots? How does that work. How do you know what 45, 85, 180, etc...where will that fall in the image?


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## Quantum Leap

I'm having trouble....my screen printer guy tells me that the film I gave him to print this 1 color design won't work w/ his 230, 130, 105, or whatever screens. He says I won't get that nice faded edge when he applies the ink on the shirts. He did a print for me & the edges don't fade nicely like I had before. He says I need to have bigger dots so the screen mesh will handle the task...& I'll have a nice fade around the edges. The white ink on black shirt will fade nicely around the perimeter of the square. I've tried everything: Filter-pixelate-color halftone, then I type in 5, or 6, or 8, or 10...but I can't get the dots or 1/2 tone dots. He says the edges, perimeter of the square is too smooth & needs to have 'bigger dots,' so the screen will make a nice fade....how do you do it? I can't find how to upload my picture so you can see it!!!! Thee's no option for me to click my image in the body of this damn note!!!


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## tpitman

Aside from the advice I gave you on your other post, why not have your screenprinter output the films the way he wants them since you don't know how and you're in a hurry for some reason?


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## RunClothing

Is this process for cmyk ? Also how many screens is that process for 3? I want to make a one color screen/halftone


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## PMCPrinting

Thanks so much. This was great.


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