# Just picked up an epson 4800 on a good deal - what are the downsides of dye sublimation?



## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

hey guys, first off, if anyone who has posted previously to help me, thank you!! i did a few things that were suggested and made a bid difference. so you wont believe it but i picked up an epson 4800 on craigslist for $100.!!! thats right, $100.!!! it had an error message 0001001D. i researched it and found that that only ment something was dirty. i did a few thing i found on the forum and on what to do and did it and the error message went away. unfortunatly i dont have any ink with it so i cant test it. but i am thinking of going dye sub with it and just keep me 3000 for the screen printing stuff. i have read that dye sub isnt for everyone. what is it that is bad? i see all good things that you can do with it except print on dark clothes. so what are the bad things? if anyone has any input on this please let me know before i spend the 1000. for ink for this printer. thanks again!!


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Before you go out and spend money on dye sub ink you may be ahead of the game to find some generic 4800 ink cartridges and see if even prints. Head could be clogged to th epoint of no return


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

Those machines are easy to bring back to life so this is what I would recommend and it wouldprobably cost less than $1000.00 so here you go. 1: get yourself a bulk system, this is a set of refillable cartridges so a one time purchase you can fill it with flush and ink up the machine to clean the lines and test the printhead. 
2: get a color management software I would recommend Wasatch you can run 1 setting at CMYK for your dye sub and 3 channels of clear 1 channel of Film dye or Pigment photo black for your film output. 
3: get yourself good quality dye sub inks so you don't have clogging issues . 

Now go out and do your homework you can get a full blown setup for less than 1K that most pay over 4K for. Good luck


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> hey guys, first off, if anyone who has posted previously to help me, thank you!! i did a few things that were suggested and made a bid difference. so you wont believe it but i picked up an epson 4800 on craigslist for $100.!!! thats right, $100.!!! it had an error message 0001001D. i researched it and found that that only ment something was dirty. i did a few thing i found on the forum and on what to do and did it and the error message went away. unfortunatly i dont have any ink with it so i cant test it. but i am thinking of going dye sub with it and just keep me 3000 for the screen printing stuff. i have read that dye sub isnt for everyone. what is it that is bad? i see all good things that you can do with it except print on dark clothes. so what are the bad things? if anyone has any input on this please let me know before i spend the 1000. for ink for this printer. thanks again!!





Riderz Ready said:


> Before you go out and spend money on dye sub ink you may be ahead of the game to find some generic 4800 ink cartridges and see if even prints. Head could be clogged to th epoint of no return


To add to Riderz point ... once having the generic inks installed there is a "super head clean" mode that can be found deep in the front panel settings that offer an advanced and $$ heavy cleanings at different levels of ink purge. That is if you are having unresolving banding that normal head cleans cannot resolve.

It's in the manual of how to do it. I have a similar printer (4880) that has that feature as well, thankfully I haven't needed to do it. There is a limited amount of times the printer allows you to use it, maybe 150 x something like that.

As Riderz points out, use the basic inks first.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

thanks for everyones advice. i am going to start doing more research now. what is that software you are talking about pablo?? i have accurip but i am guessing that isnt something that you need for dye sub. do you know any good CHEAP places to get regular ink? i am a little ahead of the game, i have a magenta a light magenta that he sent with it. is there not a way to print with these printers without haveing all the ink slots full. these two inks are close to full but on the computer it says they are empty. i hope that isnt something that something wrong with the printer. any thoughts on that??


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

Pvasquez said:


> Those machines are easy to bring back to life so this is what I would recommend and it wouldprobably cost less than $1000.00 so here you go. 1: get yourself a bulk system, this is a set of refillable cartridges so a one time purchase you can fill it with flush and ink up the machine to clean the lines and test the printhead.
> 2: get a color management software I would recommend Wasatch you can run 1 setting at CMYK for your dye sub and 3 channels of clear 1 channel of Film dye or Pigment photo black for your film output.
> 3: get yourself good quality dye sub inks so you don't have clogging issues .
> 
> Now go out and do your homework you can get a full blown setup for less than 1K that most pay over 4K for. Good luck


i just posted but had a couple more quick questions for you. what is the clear you are talking about? what is its purpose? so i can run dye sub and regular on the same machine?? man, that would be awsome then i could get rid of this 3000!!


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> i just posted but had a couple more quick questions for you. what is the clear you are talking about? what is its purpose? so i can run dye sub and regular on the same machine?? man, that would be awsome then i could get rid of this 3000!!


Basically before you do anything you want to clean the lines, dampers, and print head. What you will do is purchase a Flush (cleaning solution) and a No color ink (clear ink not cleaner) you will put the machine in transport mode first this will drain any and all ink in the lines. Then you fill your bulk system with the flush and ink it up, do one power cleaning while you have the flush in the bulk system and using the Epson utility run a nozzle check using waterproof film so you can inspect and see how the nozzles look like. If everything is printing, great, if not let the machine stand for 24 hours and run another power clean, if now your good then you remove the bulk system and put the machine into transport mode again. Draining your flush from the bulk system and putting the dye sub, pigment, no color, or pigment in the slots you will run then ink it up. A rip will allow you to control your channel selection so if you really wanted to you can run what is known as custom dual CMYK so yes you can run one side for dye sub and then the other side for photos or comps and film. The no color ink will only be used if there are channels you don't want to run color in so you don't overheat the head and saves you money.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

Pvasquez said:


> Basically before you do anything you want to clean the lines, dampers, and print head. What you will do is purchase a Flush (cleaning solution) and a No color ink (clear ink not cleaner) you will put the machine in transport mode first this will drain any and all ink in the lines. Then you fill your bulk system with the flush and ink it up, do one power cleaning while you have the flush in the bulk system and using the Epson utility run a nozzle check using waterproof film so you can inspect and see how the nozzles look like. If everything is printing, great, if not let the machine stand for 24 hours and run another power clean, if now your good then you remove the bulk system and put the machine into transport mode again. Draining your flush from the bulk system and putting the dye sub, pigment, no color, or pigment in the slots you will run then ink it up. A rip will allow you to control your channel selection so if you really wanted to you can run what is known as custom dual CMYK so yes you can run one side for dye sub and then the other side for photos or comps and film. The no color ink will only be used if there are channels you don't want to run color in so you don't overheat the head and saves you money.


that sounds like the way to go. i guess i can find out how to do all the transport mode and stuff from the book. any suggestions on places to buy the bulk cartridges??


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

i am looking at the Wasatch website but all i see is softrip, is that what i am looking for? i mean to run the different inks at the same time from the printer?


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> i am looking at the Wasatch website but all i see is softrip, is that what i am looking for? i mean to run the different inks at the same time from the printer?


There is also

MultiRIP Hybrid Dual Ink RIP Software - Epson Digital Printers

Dual mode, sublimation and pigment inks at the same time. They have a demo version so you can try before you buy. If you are not doing silk screens there is a "lite" version to save money.

Michael


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

mgparrish said:


> Highly suggest you make sure you can get a good nozzle check before you buy _any_ software.
> 
> Since you bought a used printer, and in the case it doesn't give you a good print, you may end up buying something you can't use and be forced into paying $2K for a new printer like a 4880 if you want to use the software.
> 
> Don't put the horse before the cart.


Totally agree. Baby steps, a bulk ink system and flush is way cheaper than a full set of aftermarket color inks to see if it's going to work and the same system will work for the 4000/4800/4880 so it won't be a waste of money, just need to know how to modify it, and I can help with that. 

One more thing Wasatch would be able to run upto 4 printers so it can run this machine even if you only have one good channel for film and the 3000 at the same time so the software is not a waste either way.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Pvasquez said:


> Totally agree. Baby steps, a bulk ink system and flush is way cheaper than a full set of aftermarket color inks to see if it's going to work and the same system will work for the 4000/4800/4880 so it won't be a waste of money, just need to know how to modify it, and I can help with that.
> 
> One more thing Wasatch would be able to run upto 4 printers so it can run this machine even if you only have one good channel for film and the 3000 at the same time so the software is not a waste either way.


I agree, however, you are still making an assumption that he is willing to buy a $2K printer if the used printer he bought doesn't work so that he can use the software on a different model.

Using one channel for film? Possible, but not wise. Much better to buy any cheapy Epson printer for that, than use a partially defective larger printer, unless the requirement is to have films up to 17 inches wide.

When you refer to "bulk system" he may be confused on that point. Not to be confused with a CIS like used on a smaller format, refillable aftermarket carts are the "bulk system" on 4000/4800/4880. 

Many prefilled 3rd party carts are refillable BTW.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

It looks like I can get ink and all for a pretty reasonable price. I am looking at all the software and it looks like multirip hybrid is what I need. Is there a color separation by Wasatch?


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> It looks like I can get ink and all for a pretty reasonable price. I am looking at all the software and it looks like multirip hybrid is what I need. Is there a color separation by Wasatch?


No sorry, it's just a rip software for color management, you mentioned that you have separation software on another thread, is that right? If so all you would do is add a printer from your art computer and it sends the seps to the rip, the rip takes that info and sends to the printer. It's a really nice flow. If it's a color comp then you add another printer to your art computer and send it that way or save the file and then open it in the rip then print it.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

mgparrish said:


> I agree, however, you are still making an assumption that he is willing to buy a $2K printer if the used printer he bought doesn't work so that he can use the software on a different model.


 yeah, that would be tragic if i bought the software and couldnt use it. thankfully they do have a free trial i can try before i decide to purchase. 



mgparrish said:


> Using one channel for film? Possible, but not wise. Much better to buy any cheapy Epson printer for that, than use a partially defective larger printer, unless the requirement is to have films up to 17 inches wide.


so if the printer is fully functional, is it not your recomendation to use it for both, sub and printing films for screens?


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

mgparrish said:


> I agree, however, you are still making an assumption that he is willing to buy a $2K printer if the used printer he bought doesn't work so that he can use the software on a different model.
> 
> Using one channel for film? Possible, but not wise. Much better to buy any cheapy Epson printer for that, than use a partially defective larger printer, unless the requirement is to have films up to 17 inches wide.
> 
> ...


I'm not trying to hurt the OP in any way, I'm just trying to get him to get this printer back to life in the most economically way possible. Yes you can probably buy a set of color inks for what $35.00 ea at best? That's $280.00 for COLOR. The same $ amount would get you refill system and FLUSH and you don't need to mess with a Syringe that's a total mess on 4800 carts, you use a funnel for the bulk system nice and clean. Then buy your inks that you want not something that you don't need. I hope I don't sound rood on this, that's not my intention, I have many of these printers out there that are dedicated for film output running Wasatch and one channel of black, and yes it is well worth it considering that it's faster than most little 1100, 1400 etc. and cleaner to run that's for sure. Again it's just a suggestion.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> yeah, that would be tragic if i bought the software and couldnt use it. thankfully they do have a free trial i can try before i decide to purchase.
> 
> *You could use it fully but would have to buy another printer if your used printer you bought is not 100% working. Most larger format Epsons can be "recovered" if the heads are clogged or repaired (for a price).*
> 
> ...


If your used printer is not recoverable, or too expensive to make it so, I don't recommend you buy a 4880 for sublimation, I have one and use it for pigment art prints and photos.

The 4880 prints great, one issue is that even if you disable all the "auto nozzle" and "auto head clean" functions in your printer front panel control, you will still end up with occasional "auto head cleans". 

What happens is you can have a perfect nozzle check, Epson, in their infinite wisdom will still force the head clean _even if you don't need it_. Often _after _the head clean now your nozzle check is NG, even if it was OK before, now it isn't, so you gotta clean again, do nozzle checks again etc ... $$$ with sub ink or Epson's OEM inks.

It's not just my specific 4880 that does this, many 4880 users even using Epson's inks complain about this. Keeps Epson CEO's rich.

WIth the 4880 you cannot buy the cheaper sublimation inks like you can with the >42 inch printers (unless you "cheat"), and unless you need up to 17 inches wide, a WF1100 is faster and does not steal your inks.

RIPS are nice, but you can buy 2 WF1100's, one for pigments, one for sublimation and 2 nice CIS systems for less that the cost of the RIP alone.

You can make transfers, pigments and sublimation without a RIP, a RIP has nice features and such, but not necessary to be sucessful.

With sublimation, either go really cheap and get a "disposable" WF1100, or really expensive and get a Epson 9XXX >42 so you can get cheap "legal" sub inks (if your production volumes justifies it) then buy a RIP for that.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Pvasquez said:


> I'm not trying to hurt the OP in any way, I'm just trying to get him to get this printer back to life in the most economically way possible. Yes you can probably buy a set of color inks for what $35.00 ea at best? That's $280.00 for COLOR. The same $ amount would get you refill system and FLUSH and you don't need to mess with a Syringe that's a total mess on 4800 carts, you use a funnel for the bulk system nice and clean. Then buy your inks that you want not something that you don't need. I hope I don't sound rood on this, that's not my intention, I have many of these printers out there that are dedicated for film output running Wasatch and one channel of black, and yes it is well worth it *considering that it's faster than most little 1100, 1400 etc. and cleaner to run that's for sure.* Again it's just a suggestion.


I use funnel fill refillable 330 mL carts on the 4880, that is my "bulk system".

I have both a 4880 and WF1100, the 4000/4800/4880 is *not* faster, and wastes more ink, the WF1100 *prints more reliably*, and the WF1100 is *$1875* dollars cheaper ... that's for sure. 


Beyond that, a RIP slows down the printer compared to it's OEM configuration.

Yes flushing can waste ink, but I do recall he has inks already installed, just use the Epson "super head clean" if regular head cleaning fails, then think about using headcleaning fluids or other solutions last resort.


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

mgparrish said:


> I have both a 4880 and WF1100, the 4000/4800/4880 is *not* faster, and wastes more ink, and the WF1100 is *$1875* dollars cheaper.
> 
> Beyond that, a RIP slows down the printer compared to it's OEM configuration.
> 
> Yes flushing can waste ink, but I do recall he has inks already installed, just use the Epson "super head clean" if regular head cleaning fails, then think about using headcleaning fluids or other solutions last resort.


What resolution are you running your 4880? What is your setup for both printers? Aftermarket ink is pennies on the 4800 compared to the 1100. You have a maintenance tank that catches the ink instead of a pad under the printer like the 1100. This will translate to not having to replace the printer when on the 1100 you will have ink spilling out at a later time. The 1100 is a good printer for most but hey for the price he got that unit for looks like it's worth trying to get it back to life. 

And yes the OP is out of ink so there will be an investment to make one way or another. I'm not trying to argue with you. With no ink to test it what would be your first move? knowing that you wanted to try to use it for dye sub and film output. What's your advise? Buy a complete set of OEM inks to find out if it works? That would cost $552.00 for a set of Epson 110ml carts. 

Again I'm not arguing with you this forum is to help, are my suggestions not helpful in your eyes?


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

I marked up in your comments.



Pvasquez said:


> What resolution are you running your 4880? What is your setup for both printers?
> 
> *Depends on the media. I have tested both side by side in all print modes the 4880 is not faster! Had the 4880 now about 3 years and the WF1100 about 1 1/2 years or so.*
> 
> ...


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

Mgparrish
I think at the end of the day what's important is that we both agree. I think there are two totally diffrent applications here where your using your 4880 for what it's main purpose is for and the OP is using it for a tshirt printing company, currently has an Epson 3000, so yes 17" wide is important. The 4800 is basically an upgrade if it works out. 

Happy Easter the wife is wondering why I'm on my phone so much lol.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Pvasquez said:


> Mgparrish
> I think at the end of the day what's important is that we both agree. I think there are two totally diffrent applications here where your using your 4880 for what it's main purpose is for and the OP is using it for a tshirt printing company, currently has an Epson 3000, so yes 17" wide is important. The 4800 is basically an upgrade if it works out.
> 
> Happy Easter the wife is wondering why I'm on my phone so much lol.


A lot of people bought the Epson 3000 "back in the day" as the 1280 was junk and 6 colors, not necessarily because they needed 17 inches wide. The 980s and such I believe were phased out of when the 1280 came around.

In many cases the intended application was a _reliable heat transfer printer_, not so much for the width. Having the extra width was a "plus", but usually not the gating item. But yes, _some_ people need 17 inch heat transfer.

There were "bulk systems" on the 1280 but the 3000 was only 4 colors and had large carts.

So, the big question is does he need really need 17 inch width for films and heat transfers? Then a 4880 makes sense.

If not, then buying a $2K 4880 (because he can't revive his used 4800 printer economically) for heat transfer application needs careful thought.

Happy Easter to you as well. Now go back and enjoy it with your wife ...


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

Pvasquez said:


> No sorry, it's just a rip software for color management, you mentioned that you have separation software on another thread, is that right?


yeah i do have two color sep softwares. i have t-seps and separation studio. i really dont know how to use separation studio yet and since there isnt hardly any tutorials on it, im struggling with it. anyways, you havent mentioned which software i should be looking at for that. there is so many out from them i dont know which one to look at for this project.


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> yeah i do have two color sep softwares. i have t-seps and separation studio. i really dont know how to use separation studio yet and since there isnt hardly any tutorials on it, im struggling with it. anyways, you havent mentioned which software i should be looking at for that. there is so many out from them i dont know which one to look at for this project.


Well the only one that I have is Wasatch so you have two choices. 1: Wasatch desktop edition, with this one there are going to be two codes you will request when you purchase you will be able to run cmyk for dye sub, cmyk for heat transfers if you want, and one channel black for film output using basic postscript screens for halftones. You will also be able to setup one queue for your 3000 so you have all 4 print queues setup for different purposes all you have to do is load the proper media. 
2: Wasatch SPDE has the rosettes so you won't get the annoying warning every time you setup for film output. You can always upgrade to this within the first couple of months for the price difference if you decide to get the lower grade one. You would still request some special codes to run custom dual CMYK basically this allows you to setup this printer as a left side CMYK and a right side CMYK. 

If you don't want to setup this unit for heat transfers and just dye sub then you would not invest in the cmyk pigment inks just get the film black and no color ink.
I did a bit of research on the multi rip and could not find a price so I don't know comparison but Wasatch is PC based as that one. Hope this helps


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

ok so after reading everyones posts again i should answer a few questions that people have. i would like to keep the 17" format. infact i wouldnt mind having more i want to design all over t's eventually when i get it down and am able to do ANYTHING! i just posted one of my last attempts on one of my other posts. anyways, i cant get my 3000 to print 17" wide. it wont feed the paper. i can get it to do 15" but thats it. i would like to be able to do both with one printer, heat transfer and stuff for screen printing. i was assured by the guy i got the printer from that the head was in perfect shape, the main reason he sold it was his repair man wanted to charge him 400 dollars just to look at the printer because of the error. i do have 2 ink cartridges still. i cant seem to get it to print with just the two though. is it possible to test print with just the two?? if i try to print something that is magenta which is the colors that i have, light and regular? happy easter guys and thanks for all the help.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

wait, i ment dye sub, not heat transfer. or is that the same thing??


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> wait, i ment dye sub, not heat transfer. or is that the same thing??


No it's not the same, it's just an option if you want it. You want to setup dye sub for white poly garments, white poly soft fabrics and white hard goods, using a heat press, that's dye sub 

Heat transfers are like printing on a coating for light color garments, and a white printable media that you heat press on dark shirts. It's a cool option to have but I would then recommend a cutter with an optical eye for registration but we are getting off subject.

So eliminate pigment inks and replace with no color ink and film dye black.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> wait, i ment dye sub, not heat transfer. or is that the same thing??


Chucky,

The Multi-rip Hybrid "light" mode is for both sublimation heat transfer and pigment inks including heat transfer. Both "modes" can be "heat transfer". 

You can do pigment heat transfers for 50/50 or 100% cotton tshirts on 4 of the carts, then do sublimation with the other 4 carts in the 8 color printer. Pigment transfers can have hand and a "window" outline in the background. 

I do both pigment and sublimation heat transfer, but having both options is desirable IMO.

Depending on the pigment ink heat transfer paper this may or may not be a problem, especially if you are doing a solid geometry transfer without open white space. Light colors are more of a problem for the "window" problem. But the Tshirts are cheaper and more varity using pigment transfers.

MultiRip "Light" you cannot do films.

The MultiRip Full version Hybrid lets you do sublimation, pigments prints (including pigment transfers), and films. So really this is a 3 mode option, but more expensive.

If you need 17 inch then it needs to be a 4880 or better, there is a cheaper 17 inch Epson model (38XX) but software and ink support for heat transfer is limited.

Suggest to crunch your numbers on your ink usage, buying a more expensive >42 inch printer may be cheaper in the long run due to sub ink costs being much cheaper on the >42 due to Sawgrass licensing.


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

ok, you have given me loads of good information. i will be making the investment to get this printer going real soon. just started new job in the oilfield so should have the money to get me rolling again soon. look for me to be ordering from you soon. thanks again.


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> ok, you have given me loads of good information. i will be making the investment to get this printer going real soon. just started new job in the oilfield so should have the money to get me rolling again soon. look for me to be ordering from you soon. thanks again.


Stay safe bud...


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

so one more quick question. i know that i need to get one set of the big cartridges for the inks. but, do i need to get a full different set to run the cleaner through? or do you just clean the cartridges out after you run the cleaner through them and put the ink in them??


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

211chucky said:


> so one more quick question. i know that i need to get one set of the big cartridges for the inks. but, do i need to get a full different set to run the cleaner through? or do you just clean the cartridges out after you run the cleaner through them and put the ink in them??


Using the same set will work just fine. After you flush just drain them as best you can back into the original flush liter so you can use this for cleaning the squeegee or putting some in the capping station for ink breakdown etc. Do not wash them, just put the ink that you will run in them and go. That simple, pretty cool huh? No need to purchase an extra set .. On another note you will get a resetter so everytime the unit thinks it's low on ink all you do is reset the cartridge and it's like new.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Pvasquez said:


> Using the same set will work just fine. After you flush just drain them as best you can back into the original flush liter so you can use this for cleaning the squeegee or putting some in the capping station for ink breakdown etc. Do not wash them, just put the ink that you will run in them and go. That simple, pretty cool huh? No need to purchase an extra set .. On another note you will get a resetter so everytime the unit thinks it's low on ink all you do is reset the cartridge and it's like new.


Some refillable funnel fill carts, like mine, are autorest, no resetter needed, just depends on the 3rd party cart manufacturer.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> so one more quick question. i know that i need to get one set of the big cartridges for the inks. but, do i need to get a full different set to run the cleaner through? or do you just clean the cartridges out after you run the cleaner through them and put the ink in them??


Another point, if you buy the 4800 funnel fill carts those can be used in the 4880 in case you can't revive the used 4800 and have to buy a 4880.

You mentioned wanting to cover the entire shirt with printing? How big is your heat press? I have two 16 x 20's and even if your 3000 can only do 15 inches due to your printer problem, that is only 1 inch shy of the platen width of a lot of presses, unless you have or get one of those jumbo presses. 

Or you need to transfer in multiple passes if you want to cover most XL's tshirts and larger to print over most or all of the garment, without the "jumbo" press and/or a printer that can print wider than the XL or larger shirt.

Conde Systems has a video that shows how they do "all over" and no need to print, transfer, cut, and sew. Wider press and printer though.

http://www.dyetrans.com/allover-t-shirt-printing.php


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

i dont have a heat press yet. that will be one of the investments that i will be making with this adventure. i havent even started looking at them yet. is the 16" wide one the biggest they make other than the jumbo??


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> i dont have a heat press yet. that will be one of the investments that i will be making with this adventure. i havent even started looking at them yet. is the 16" wide one the biggest they make other than the jumbo??


Standard presses are 15 x 15 or 16 x 20. Most of the main manufacturers have bigger oversize as well.

Such as ...

Geo Knight & Co Inc - Heat Presses Heat Press Machines Heat Press Machinery

Since it is clear now that you are just starting out and no established business, suggest not to go crazy with your purchases until you get an established market, lot's of folks will sell you stuff, doesn't mean you can be sucessful just by having top end equipment and software. Start simple then move up from there as your business expands.

For tshirts most of us use a 16 x 20 press. If you want to do the "all over" thing, you can always have those contracted out at first using places like Conde Systems or find others on the forum here with the equipment. Once you have a market for such things then look at the higher end $$$ equipment. 

You can still transfer larger than 13 x 19 area using the smaller printer like the WF1100 printer I mentioned. You put more than 1 transfer on the shirt and press. You limitation is 13 x 19 for any solid shape when sublimating. I can still cover an entire shirt if I need, just no single solid shape bigger than 13 x 19. 

_*If you don't sublimate often a larger format printer like 4000 or 4880 is not a good idea, even if you get your 4000 going you can't let it sit idle, you will spend $$$ in sub ink just keeping the heads clear. If you do get the 4000 going you need to print often, having sales or not having sales. Sublimating with larger printers you should have a well established business and the volume of printing to justify the equipment.*_


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## 211chucky (Mar 23, 2010)

That sounds like some good advice. How often is printing often. If I print once a week is that enough?


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

211chucky said:


> That sounds like some good advice. How often is printing often. If I print once a week is that enough?


It all depends on your environment, humidty etc.

Printing only once a week will guarantee you spend a lot of money on both auto head cleans and required head cleans.

You can do nozzle checks every day or every other day to keep your print heads clear, but the Epson bandit is going to rob you and make Sawgrass a bit richer everytime you have to re-clean the heads due to a "auto" head clean that you likely didn't need in the first place. 

The 4X00 series of Epsons you can have a good nozzle and no banding, therefore no head cleaning is required, then out of nowhere Epson decides to clean those heads for you ... need it or not. 

You can turn off the "Auto-nozzle" and another "auto" option to reduce the number of "surprise" cleans in the front panel, but sometimes Epson decides to still do those auto head cleans anyway.

Sometimes that action will cause you have to poor nozzle checks (even if they were clear before) then you gotta force more head cleans to clear those out. Works that way with Epson's original inks, so using 3rd party sublimation inks the printer was not designed for makes it worse. 

If you printed a lot of transfers the one day you do decide to print, it would offset some of that ink waste cost, but if you do "onesie-twosies" .. only once a week .. the printer is thieving thug, more ink gets wasted thru the heads than goes on substrates..


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