# Heat press questions. Please help: transfers not pressing properly



## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hello there,
May I first say what a great forum this is....well done!
My questions below have most likely been asked 1000 times, (and answered 1000 times) but as I'm a complete novice and not the brightest crayon in the box, I'd be really grateful if someone could give me simple answers to the following.
I lost my husband before Xmas '06 and, not wanting to go on a pension, came up with the idea of printing T-shirts at home, mostly for 'something to do', but also because my daughter can sell them at her local weekend markets.
Sooooo.....I ordered and received a heap of transfers from Proworld (hope I'm not breaking any forum rules by mentioning this company, it's just so you'll know what type of transfers I'm using). I've also ordered a lot of 100% cotton T's. And I bought a Roxcell (clamshell?) 38cm x 38cm heatpress. Now, the heatpress doesn't come with clear instructions, ie "The temperature range for baking the mental (do they mean "metal"?) board normally is 170-200C, time: 20-40 seconds; temperature for baking the procelain board normally is 200-220C, time: 120-150 seconds, and the temperature for baking the fabric normally is 120-140C, time: 5-10 seconds.
What does all this mean, please?
I've been trying different temperatures, different pressures, and different times.
The optimum seems to be to preheat the garment (double thickness) for 5 seconds at 180C, then 20 seconds for the transfer.....hot peel. To save wasting full transfers, I've cut some up into small pieces, dotted the pieces over old T-shirts, and the above method works well, but when I heatpress a full transfer onto a good T-shirt, disaster!!!! Only about half of it takes.
Where am I going wrong? Is it only a matter of trial and error?
I'm tearing my hair out.  
Any comments and/or suggestions will be welcomed.
Thankyou very much.
Sophie


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## Jasonda (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: Heat press questions. Please help: pro world transfers not pressing properly*

Hi Sophie,

Sorry to hear you are having trouble.

Did you receive any pressing instructions from Proworld?

What do your "disaster" prints look like? Do they seem too melted, or are they not attaching properly?


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: Heat press questions. Please help: pro world transfers not pressing properly*

Hey,
Just for the record. I do not recall typing "pro world transfers not pressing properly" in my header.......in fact I know I never typed that.
My problems have nothing whatsoever to do with Proworld. The transfers are terrific. I'm the problem through inexperience.


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## cookster (May 10, 2006)

*Re: Heat press questions. Please help: pro world transfers not pressing properly*

Sophie, Is it the same section that sticks to the shirt when you press a full transfer. (Left side/Right side) If so you may want to check the temp. of your platen with a heat gun as it sounds like your platen may not be heating evenly.


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## Mr.4ColorProcess (Dec 5, 2005)

*Re: Heat press questions. Please help: pro world transfers not pressing properly*

Sophie, let me quote you then answer some questions for you.

"The temperature range for baking the mental (do they mean "metal"?) board normally is 170-200C, time: 20-40 seconds; temperature for baking the procelain board normally is 200-220C, time: 120-150 seconds, and the temperature for baking the fabric normally is 120-140C, time: 5-10 seconds.
What does all this mean, please?"

*Mental* is supposed to read 'METAL' -- and those are the following instructions
*Procelain* is supposed to read 'PORCELAIN' and those are the following instructions.
And the last are the instructions for fabric.

I don't know if your heat press reads in Celsius of Fahrenheit. But here's a conversion link for you to play with: 
Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter

You need to contact your transfer manufacturer and find out what the specific pressing instructions are for your heat transfers. Many times, certain designs transfer at different settings. For instance, one white design might transfer at 365 degrees, 7 seconds @ 65psi. Then another design, maybe a different colored design might transfer better at 375 degrees, blah blah blah... You need to find the specific instructions for your specific order.

Hope that helps,

-- Jim


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: Heat press questions. Please help: pro world transfers not pressing properly*



Sophie2006 said:


> Hey,
> Just for the record. I do not recall typing "pro world transfers not pressing properly" in my header.......in fact I know I never typed that.
> My problems have nothing whatsoever to do with Proworld. The transfers are terrific. I'm the problem through inexperience.



Hey Sophie, that would have been me  Sometimes it's necessary to edit the title of the thread so that members scanning the forums have a better idea of whether or not they can answer the question inside.

I've fixed the title so it doesn't mention pro world, but I did it to help you get answers to your question  I've found that sometimes the more accurate the title, the better responses you'll receive.

Let us know if the tips above are of any help or if you still have further questions.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

relax Sophie.  

Make sure your equip. is working properly (there are a lot of topics here on the board).

Then yes. test, test, test.... it takes a little time to get the flow.

It does get confusing when trying various typs of transfers all at the saame time. Perhaps start with one type (like cold peels), master that, make your own setting notes and move on to the next transfer type.

You will be fine.


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## John S (Sep 9, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> ...temperature for baking the fabric normally is 120-140C, time: 5-10 seconds.
> What does all this mean, please?
> I've been trying different temperatures, different pressures, and different times.
> The optimum seems to be to preheat the garment (double thickness) for 5 seconds at 180C, then 20 seconds for the transfer.....hot peel. To save wasting full transfers, I've cut some up into small pieces, dotted the pieces over old T-shirts, and the above method works well, but when I heatpress a full transfer onto a good T-shirt, disaster!!!! Only about half of it takes.


I wonder if your shirts have a lot of moisture in them. Your test shirts are getting several full pressings, which would dry them out and make the transfers stick. Then when you go to a new shirt, the 5 seconds might not be enough to get all the water out. 

Try a new shirt, press it for 5 seconds, open the press and lay a drinking glass on it's side in the middle of the T-shirt and look for fog on the glass. (I use a perfect transfer tool, which is a large sheet of clear plastic. I lay it on the hot shirt and if it fogs up, I press it again. Some times I have to press a shirt 2 or 3 full cycles to get all the water out!)

Sorry I don't have the time/temp/pressure for your transfers. Maybe someone will post the formula they use for their brand and that will help you get close enough to get some good shirts.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi Jasonda, Bob and Jim for your informative replies.
Proworld's instructions for almost all the transfers (they're all rather large transfers, by the way), are to preheat 7 seconds (OK), then press for 8-10 seconds at 385 Fahrenheit. This, to my mind is around 190-200 Celsius? The heatpress is in Celsius degrees.
I think it's rather even heating because when I dot pieces of transfers all around the scrap T-shirts (top, middle, bottom and sides) they all come out perfect, but when I try a full transfer, either the top, middle or bottom comes off clear.
Also, I don't know where the heatgun thingy comes in, but there's one in the garage.......
Also, haven't a clue about the psi. The pressure is decided by a knob at the back of the machine, and I have it as tight as I can, but if it's too tight then I just can't lift the handle at the end of the specified time, and panic like mad!
Oh, will I get it right in the end? Do I just need to keep practising? Sick of wasting good transfers.
Many thanks,
Sophie


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hey Rodney,
I thought I was dreaming things when I saw that header, but now I understand.......thankyou.
Yes, the tips are great and are helping me sort the chaff from the wheat, so to speak.
Concerning Proworld, I was most happy with their service and delivery time (only about 10 days from the US to Australia). I can't find any other transfer companies (or t-shirt companies, apart from the one I used) that ship to Australia.
As for further problems, don't think I mentioned the clamshell has a thick rubber/vinyl heatmat, but I wouldn't dare put the T-shirt on the metal plate.
Probably I just need someone with experience to advise me the optimum temperature and timing to achieve an 'overall' great effect.
Cheers,
Sophie


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Sophie2006 said:


> Also, I don't know where the heatgun thingy comes in, but there's one in the garage.......


You probably don't want to take to your heat press with a heat gun - the other poster actually meant to say an IR thermometer rather than a heat gun.


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## cookster (May 10, 2006)

Lewis, Thanks for clearing up my statement as that is exactly what I was talking about was the IR thermometer. It will telll you if your platen is heating up the same temp that you sent your dial at and also if there are cold spots on your platen. Sorry for the confusion SOPHIE as I also cut sign vinyl and we use a heat gun for snowmobiles to make the vinyl stick better.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

385-400 F (240.44C) for 10 seconds. 8 seconds if on dark apparel assuming all your transfers are hot-split or hot peel. Peel the prints right away from corner to corner in a steady motion. Pre-press is different for everyone. Our climate is very humid and I pre-press for at least 20 seconds.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks guys for all your help.
240 Celsius???? Ok then, I'm about to give it a burl.
It's a dry heat here so I'll just leave the pre-heating to 5-7 seconds, ok?
Now Lewis, I happily notice you're from Melbourne. 
I'm only 300ks. up the Freeway.
Do you know of a good quality T-shirt supplier in Melbourne, or aren't I supposed to ask this?
Here goes with the 240 degree pressing......will let you know.
Cheers, Sophie


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

OK, it's the puff transfers that are the problem.
The hot peels work well, whether at 240, 230, 220 or 210 degrees celsius, on medium pressure, but the puffs are abyssmal.
Any hints, or do I just not buy puffs anymore?
Many thanks,
Sophie


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Less pressure


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> OK, it's the puff transfers that are the problem.
> Any hints, or do I just not buy puffs anymore?
> Many thanks,
> Sophie


puffs are usually at 375F, 3-6 seconds, med-hi pressure and quick hot peel.

with some puffs, the paper even peels itself off sometimes as the INK puffs up like a pizza and pushes the paper off when you open the press.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Well, thankyou all SO much!
Had a good session yesterday and today.
Some perfect, some not so perfect with all types, but I should've guessed it wouldn't work out A1 from the word go, should I?
Believe it or not, the big transfers worked out the best (on light fabrics).
So I'm getting the hang of it and am quite proud of my results.
Now, my next question (and hopefully my last as I know I'm testing your patience  ......
Is there any way I can delete the imperfect transfers so I can re-use the T's, please?
Cheers and a million thankyous,
Sophie.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

One more thing you can try that's worked well for me...

Preheat your lower platen before you get started. Cotton (esp dark) shirts have a lot of moisture and tend to suck the heat out of the press. Prepress longer and make sure you don't have steam coming off your shirts before you apply the transfer.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks for all your hints, friends.
I'm still having a few dismal failures but all in all feel I'm getting the hang of it.
Think a large part of my failures was leaving it too long before peeling, but the transfers were just so hot. Yesterday I watched an online short video and the man doing it made it look so easy. I noticed as soon as he lifted the clamshell he peeled the backing paper straight off.
Unfortunately I lost the plot yesterday with COLD peels........aaaaaghhhh....
they barely stuck to the garments, but I'm patiently peeling those transfers off so I can reuse the T.
Am still waiting on a caselot of T's to arrive from America (they're on their way, 'apparently'), so will fill in today ordering more transfers.
Talk about an expensive hobby!!!!
Cheers to all,
Sophie


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## Mr.4ColorProcess (Dec 5, 2005)

Another trick that I've had to use before, is using a cloth to gently rub the back of the transfer paper just after pressing -- and then start your hot-peel. Sometimes that helps, for whatever reason, the design to transfer off of the paper completely.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks Jimmy,
Do you mean to rub for hot-peel or cold-peel?
I know you know what you're talking about, but my instructions say to rub only cold-peels. I notice the cold-peels are a different texture to the hot-peels....a sort of vinyl feel, and I just can't seem to get the hang of 'em - they peel right off the t-shirt.
That man on the video I watched yesterday just ripped the (large) transfers straight off in 2 seconds and they all came out beautifully - I could've killed him 
Also, does anyone know (hopefully this'll be one of my last questions!) who, besides Proworld, produces/sells stock transfers please?
Boo-z have got some lovely ones but I don't think they ship to Australia?
I don't think there's anyone in Oz. who does them, but maybe someone has a few ideas?
Proworld's been terrific, but I'd just like to shop around and see what else there is.
Look forward to any ideas. You're a great forum.
Sophie


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

hi guys,
thank you so much about the tips in transfering hot peel from proworld. i got a good transfer now, i follow the instruction 210-240'celcius and meduim-heavy pressure.it easy to peel it off but i observe that the ink also goes to the back of the shirt and some small shirt is becoming light brown. do i need to lower my temperature or just lower my pressure. i press for about 10sec.


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## cottysgrl (Jan 10, 2007)

This is a good thread. I have a major event coming up and have ordered from Pro World some premade transfers. I have a hix 15 x 15 and am a newbie. But I have tried the iron all paper with me epson c88 (love both) and they come out fine, but the pro world ones, even following directions to the tee (no pun) either partially peel off or transfer but half the ink is still on the transfer. I have talked to pro world on the phone and gone over everything I do and they just think I am somehow doing it wrong or there is something wrong with the press. (2 weeks old) They also told me to take off the teflon cover on the bottom which I did to no avail. I never said this, but if I scan a transfer of theirs and print on the iron all it comes out perfect with the iron all instructions. Any ideas? I am in florida, so humidity may be an issue. But not seemingly with the iron all.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

It's not surprising that you're not getting the same results. Plastisol and IronAll are different types of transfers. They both transfer under different conditions. If you are getting good results with IronAll, the press is probably fine. 

For the plastisols -- what type of transfers are they? Cold/hot/split? What were the instructions the company gave you? Are you pre-pressing the shirts? Humidity has definitely been a factor for me. Pre-pressing for 5-10 seconds releases a LOT of steam -- especially for dark cotton shirts. Remember to give the press a minute to get back up to temperature if you see a lot of steam. I've also found that heating the lower platen helps. Just close it when the press gets hot for 20-30 seconds.


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## cottysgrl (Jan 10, 2007)

Thanks for the tip. These are all hot presses on light fabric. I didn't want to push my luck in the beginning. All basically the same instructions, pre press for 7 seconds at 385 (I found a little higher worked somewhat better) then transfer for 8-10 seconds. Again, I sometimes had to do it twice or a little longer for it even to come out at all on the shirt. Should I not be using the teflon cover on the bottom? Does this affect the heat platen temp? Any help is appreciated I am panicking at this stage with two weeks left for a big event that will kick off my biz and I want everything to look good, but it is a very specialized event. Thanks for all your help!


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## cottysgrl (Jan 10, 2007)

ps I used to live in Huntington Beach, miss is terribly.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

cottysgrl said:


> Thanks for the tip. These are all hot presses on light fabric. I didn't want to push my luck in the beginning. All basically the same instructions, pre press for 7 seconds at 385 (I found a little higher worked somewhat better) then transfer for 8-10 seconds. Again, I sometimes had to do it twice or a little longer for it even to come out at all on the shirt. Should I not be using the teflon cover on the bottom? Does this affect the heat platen temp? Any help is appreciated I am panicking at this stage with two weeks left for a big event that will kick off my biz and I want everything to look good, but it is a very specialized event. Thanks for all your help!


Can you post a pic of the transfer you are having trouble with? Are you seeing ink on the paper and thinking that you arent doing it correctly? Do the actual results look ok? Are the transfers hot-peel or hot-split? Hot split transfers will split the ink and leave ink on the paper. Pro-World sell both hot-peel and hot-split.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

cottysgrl said:


> ps I used to live in Huntington Beach, miss is terribly.


Oh, and it misses you too! It rained last night and the sky is really blue today. You know, that winter blue that only comes out when the smog has been flushed down the sewers. The mountains are fluffy white to boot!

Ok, back to the pressing. It sounds like you might not be putting enough pressure. The teflon pad underneath really shouldn't have anything to do with it. How are you judging the pressure?


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

cottysgrl said:


> This is a good thread. I have a major event coming up and have ordered from Pro World some premade transfers. I have a hix 15 x 15 and am a newbie. But I have tried the iron all paper with me epson c88 (love both) and they come out fine, but the pro world ones, even following directions to the tee (no pun) either partially peel off or transfer but half the ink is still on the transfer. I have talked to pro world on the phone and gone over everything I do and they just think I am somehow doing it wrong or there is something wrong with the press. (2 weeks old) They also told me to take off the teflon cover on the bottom which I did to no avail. I never said this, but if I scan a transfer of theirs and print on the iron all it comes out perfect with the iron all instructions. Any ideas? I am in florida, so humidity may be an issue. But not seemingly with the iron all.


Hi Cottysgrl,
Expect a lot of failures. I'm not saying this to dishearten you in any way, but as a newie to this addictive hobby, I find I have 2 failures to every success. Amazingly, the best are the big, complicated-looking transfers. They make it all look soooooo easy on the video demonstrations, don't they? I have the pressure as tight as I can manage, but someone suggested I stand on a chair for more leverage or put the heatpress in a lower position. I, too, thought of scanning the stock transfers and printing them out on transfer paper, but by the time I weighed up the costs ($24 for 10 A4 sheets), and the huge amount of ink it eats up, have decided to just keep to the transfers. Try Art Brands LLC. - Homepage for other transfers......they have some great deals on 'retired' transfers. No, I don't work for them or anything, but a forum member recommended them to me.
Best of luck,
Sophie


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Sophie, two failures to each success says you are doing it wrong. Obviously you have way more pressure than needed and whoever told you to stand on a chair for more leverage is a complete idiot. The idea to expect failures isnt the way to go about printing stock transfers by Airwaves, X-it, Impulse, Wildside and marketed by Pro-world and others. You might try with a pressure just heavy enough to lock down the platon and a temp around 400 for 10 seconds. Try 8 seconds for black shirts. You might also try a pre-press of 10 seconds for whites and at least 20 seconds for darks...especially heavyweight tees.

Post a pic of the transfer you are having problems with so we can take a look.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> Try Art Brands LLC. - Homepage for other transfers......they have some great deals on 'retired' transfers. No, I don't work for them or anything, but a forum member recommended them to me.
> Best of luck,
> Sophie


thanks for the link Sophie, yet another re-seller of transfers by Airwaves and others...

One thing to consider when buying stock transfers either direct from the source Catalog brand or from their re-sellers, is that you need to mark up your transfer cost times 5 at retail level. This will allow the extra expense for t-shirt screw-ups and store displays etc. 

It does take a little time to get good at it in order to minimize the screw-ups. 

As for making duplicates of stock transfers, please remember that artistis made the transfers, they did not come from no-where.  

stay with it and have fun.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi David and Lucy,
Thankyou for your input.
I took pics. of 2 'failures' but the 'putor won't let me upload them (pop-up blocker!).
Basically what happens is either the transfer doesn't stick (ie you can sort of peel it off) or only half prints onto the tee.....ie, one half is perfect and the other half is just not there or very faded - so I think I'm either tearing the backing off too fast or not fast enough! The worst are the cold-peel ones, they look and feel like plastic/thin vinyl, and just peel off the tee.
Still I'm not giving up because the successes are wonderful.
As for the stock transfer companies, some don't ship to Australia, and, as far as I'm aware (may well be wrong) Australia doesn't have any such companies.
Someone may be able to put me right on this point?
Same goes for blank tees.
Cheers, Sophie


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## cottysgrl (Jan 10, 2007)

Hey guys, been practicing. The humidity has been high here lately and the glass on the shirt trick works great. These are all hot peels and I did talk to Pro World again and they said they would redo them for me and show me they can be done. The one that came out the best, was of course, for me personally! I was very proud of that one. Heat, pressure )how to guage exactly?) pre press all so very important. I know you guys keep saying that! My biggest issue was one that has a picture of a dog with words one the sides of the picture. All 4 of the transfers failed to print the words, but the dog came out great. I even turned the t shirt side ways on one for pressure. Can I add the words later to save the shirt? Some of the ink did come off , can I take it off and just leave the pic? Thanks for all the help.
85 today, humid. Not a good day to make shirts.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi Donna,
Glad to hear you're getting better at it. I take a great interest in all the hints and clues and find they help a lot. I've learned not to worry toooooo much about pressure. Now I only have it as high as I can comfortably lift.
I had a lot of successes yesterday (but still a few failures) with my Proworld transfers, although I, like you, can't seem to get the hang of dog/cat transfers with writing at the bottom, sides, etc. like the "Beach Bums" one.
Yesterday though I followed one forum-member's hint and pre-pressed until no steam was visible, whether it was for 7 seconds or 17 seconds. Then I let the temperature re-set itself up to 200Celsius and print for exactly 10 seconds. I've found the secret is not to be afraid to quickly lift the cover and peel, very, very quickly. I was peeling slowly, thinking that if I peeled quickly, I'd rip the ink off. I also lay the T/singlet top sideways on the plate, so I can tuck the bottom of it underneath the plate, hold that with my left hand and very quickly peel with my right hand. I peel from bottom left-hand corner straight up and across. Had great success with the transfer with various dogs and "Dogs are special friends" written below, ditto with the cats' one showing their emotions, native American ones, Christian ones, biker ones, etc. My failures were the big Cobra and Rattler ones......don't know where I'm going wrong there, but half the snakes' scales were left behind!
Another clue I've picked up by myself is to thoroughly clean the underside of the lid/cover before starting a session.
Please let me know how you're getting on, as it's nice to hear from people suffering "first time blues", so to speak.
Cheers, Sophie


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

good news you are coming along Sophie. 

it is easy and looks it too before you buy all the stuff.  
but it does take some playing with and getting use to the press etc...

When I first started, I used a big 16x20....I was scared of it. Yeekkks!

keep posting as you play. This will help others.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks Lucy for your support and encouragement.

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!!! Another day of mixed successes/failures. Please help!
If you look up Proworld transfers, please see A8705D and A10167D. They are the huge failures, every time. It seems that blue writing won't take, nor the snakie ones. I don't like snakes at the best of times, but this is just ridiculous.
One more question for you patient people, please. After I pre-press for 7 seconds or until there's no more steam, do I lay the transfer straight onto the T-shirt/singlet or wait until the buzzer goes off again to do it?
Where am I going wrong?
Cheers, Sophie


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

This a reply from another thread re: plastisol transfers, but I'm re-posting this again.




...Based on my experience using different plastisol transfers (I use ProWorld), when you test a transfer and it came out wrong the first time, and I know I have all the right settings, try pressing it a little longer, say 2-4 secs.

I have attached some transfers I did last night.

Ice Skull

ProWorld settings:
385 - medium - 9-10 sec ---> image didn't transfer completely

My settings:
385 - heavy - 12 sec ---> beautiful transfer

Don't Be Nosey

ProWorld settings:
385 - medium - 9-10 sec ---> image didn't transfer completely

My settings:
385 - heavy - 12 sec ---> unbelievably beautiful



Try to press the transfers a little longer. Maybe it'll work.


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## cottysgrl (Jan 10, 2007)

I see the difference. Same problem that I was having. I guess you just have to expect the waste until you get it right with temp and pressure. Seems like you shouldn't have to when you are paying for them though! Even harder when you are just starting out and don't have lots to spare for more transfers. Everyones help is very much appreciated. I pressed about ten shirts yesterday and all but one came out perfectly! I also washed another mess up cuz I like the shirt so much and was able to peel off the transfer while the shirt was still wet. It has a little outlining here and there but if I get a big transfer ( haha) I can cover that up and still use the shirt. Boy my wardrobe sure has grown and I don't even like pugs!


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks for that hint, Azvel.
I have a cupboard full of failures, so will turn them inside out today and practice your method with those tricky transfers.
Cheers, Sophie


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Sophie, minimize the failures -- cut up your transfers into fourths or eighths until you figure it out. You can make them last a lot longer that way.

Edit: 

Oh, and be sure to use a teflon sheet to protect your press if you do!


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi Donna,
From the look of it, we're both slowly getting there? I pressed 22 yesterday and 18 are pretty good, some even perfect. I'll practice on old T's today following Azvel's advice. Could you tell me Donna if, when you've pre-pressed you lay the transfer on the T straightaway, or wait til the temperature buzzer goes off?
Cheers, Sophie


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks Jose.
I've tried that and it works wonderfully, but when I try the full transfer either a dog's tail or ear is missing, etc. Surprisingly enough, the very big Native American and biker ones never fail.
Oh, and please, please, tell me what a teflon sheet is, and where do you buy them? What's their purpose?
Cheers, Sophie


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

Sophie2006 said:


> Thanks Jose.
> I've tried that and it works wonderfully, but when I try the full transfer either a dog's tail or ear is missing, etc. Surprisingly enough, the very big Native American and biker ones never fail.
> Oh, and please, please, tell me what a teflon sheet is, and where do you buy them? What's their purpose?
> Cheers, Sophie


Hi Sophie, check out this post for more info on teflon sheets:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t11220.html


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> Thanks Jose.
> I've tried that and it works wonderfully, but when I try the full transfer either a dog's tail or ear is missing, etc. Surprisingly enough, the very big Native American and biker ones never fail.
> Oh, and please, please, tell me what a teflon sheet is, and where do you buy them? What's their purpose?
> Cheers, Sophie


Sophie, that could be a very important clue. When you were cutting them up, were you putting them always in the same spot? Are the parts that don't stick in the same general area? If so, you could have one of two things going on --

1. Your press is heating really unevenly. Get a non-contact thermometer and measure. No, it won't necessarily give you an accurate temperature (search for non-contact thermometer to find out why) but it will give you a relative measure of how even the heat distribution is.

2. Your platens may not be lining up properly and you have more pressure on one side than another. I had this with mine and was frustrated beyond belief. I was able to fix it with a couple of washers. Test with a piece of paper. With a cool press, close it and turn the pressure knob until you can *just* pull the paper out. Repeat on all 4 sides. If the resistance is about the same, it's level. If one side is totally loose... that could be the entire source of your problem. Your press may have a way to adjust the lower platen.

You can use a piece of paper instead of a teflon sheet since you're just testing.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks Rodney and Jose,
But you must remember, I'm a complete new addict to this game and still don't know what you're talking about. I THINK I've got even temp. on all sides because when I dot the cut-up transfers all over the shop (garment) they're just fine. It's just a few certain complete transfers that won't take.
Now, on a completely different line ..... I've practised with a few iron-all paper transfers today (because I'm out of T's, and almost out of Proworld transfers), which turned out beautifully....BUT (and there's always a but, isn't there?) they seem to have a cling-wrap finish to them. Is this normal, or should I just be using the iron, instead of the heat-press? In order to peel the transfers off the T's, I nearly burnt my fingers - they're that much hotter than plastisol transfers! But the end product is A1. Perhaps you should lower the temp. for iron-ons? And Oh Boy, is my colour ink-cartridge going down in the process!
Cheers,
Sophie


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## Jasonda (Aug 16, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> I've practised with a few iron-all paper transfers today (because I'm out of T's, and almost out of Proworld transfers), which turned out beautifully....BUT (and there's always a but, isn't there?) they seem to have a cling-wrap finish to them. Is this normal, or should I just be using the iron, instead of the heat-press?


Yes, that's normal. For best results you should trim around the design so that the clear "window" is in the shape of your design rather than the shape of the paper, it will be less noticable that way.

Also, the heat press is always going to give you better results than the iron, so stick with that.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks Jasonda,
I mucked around with the iron-on transfers yesterday and learnt (the hard way) not to preheat the garment before pressing!
Cheers, Sophie


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Azvel,
Please don't laugh (OK, laugh!), but I just had a terrible experience trying your method. I tightened up the pressure on my clamshell, set it at 195Celsius, put in a large transfer for 12 seconds, then couldn't lift it back up, so it baked for about 20 seconds while I frantically loosened the pressure enough to lift it up.......the transfer stuck to the top plate, so here I am, waiting for it to cool down enough so I can give it a thorough clean and start again - what a fiasco! But in the meantime, can I ask you if you preheat? I've found better results without preheating, but then again, I live in a very dry climate.
Another problem I was having was with red writing. After fiddling around a bit I've found that if I turn the transfer upside down (so the writing's at the top of the plate, rather than the bottom) I have terrific results.
Look forward to hearing from you re the preheating.
Cheers, Sophie


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> Azvel,
> But in the meantime, can I ask you if you preheat?


Yes, I preheat 5-8 sec. Not only you take off the moisture from garment, but you would also feel if the pressure is just right (not too tight or too light) for the next actual pressing of transfer.

Sometimes an e-mail or call to the transfer manufacturer is helpful to get the exact setting for a particular stock transfer (i.e. Impulse wear, Airwaves, Wildside, etc.). Mostly, Pro-World has this "generalized settings" for puff, process light, opaque, etc. I have done this once, but I have to research who did the transfer.

Hope it will work out for you one day.


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## T2 (Oct 31, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> Thanks Jose.
> 
> Oh, and please, please, tell me what a teflon sheet is, and where do you buy them? What's their purpose?
> Cheers, Sophie


Hi Sophie - I'm in oz too and got mine at Stahls' (stahlspacific website). theyre around $20 for 48x48cms


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi Teri and all,
Unfortunately we don't have a Stahls in Oz, but I'm making do with a sheet of all-purpose baking paper (not the greaseproof type), although I mainly use it to protect the top porcelain (teflon?) plate from stuff-ups.
This is starting to sound like Bridget Jones' Diary, but I had a wonderful day yesterday......20 pressings and 19 are perfect. Only failure (again....sigh!) was a puff transfer. Are puffs difficult, or is it just me?
Just received another 400 or so transfers from Proworld and Art Brands today, so back into it tomorrow Big Time. 
And this is a stupid question I know, but ever since I've been heat-pressing, my hands have become very dry, scaly and itchy. I've got dry skin anyway, but my daughter pointed out to me it's only been happening since I bought the heat-press. It's not really a problem, but do others find that heat-pressing really dries your hands out?
Cheers, Sophie


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## T2 (Oct 31, 2006)

Sophie2006 said:


> Hi Teri and all,
> Unfortunately we don't have a Stahls in Oz,


Hi 
I don't know if i'm supposed to post websites but if so, Stahl's in Oz is near Sydney (Hornsby) at Stahls' Pacific - they were very quick to post out samples (after an email enquiry), and they do have teflon pads, pillows and papers etc.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Sophie2006 said:


> reevsy said:
> 
> 
> > I'm in oz too and got mine at Stahls' (stahlspacific website)
> ...


I'm sure they'd be surprised to hear that: Stahls' Pacific


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## stitchesnstuff (Jan 24, 2007)

Sophie2006 As for puff transfers I seem to get better results with more pressure.


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

Now I'm embarrassed. I've honestly never heard of Stahl's in Oz.
Will check out their website. Thanks for that.
And thanks also Julie for your hint re the puffs. Will give them another tryout today.
Cheers, Sophie


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## Sophie2006 (Feb 13, 2007)

*Update from a newie.....*

Hi all,
Well, some good and not-so-good news.
I sent 200 printed T's to my daughter (she's a born saleswoman) in Queensland for a tryout at her local market. She reported there were only 6 stalls and she sold 12 T's, which equated to around 1 in 10 people buying. Surprisingly, the ones that sold were ones I never thought would, like "Dropped on my head as a child", etc. But there's a big biker show up there in a few weeks, so maybe she'll do a bit better there - well, hopefully she will. 
Then my 2-month old heatpress blew up!!! Don't laugh! When I turned it on it made loud banging noises and started smoking where you plug it in. A girlfriend was here at the time and she's not a fast mover, but man did she fly to the other side of the kitchen in no time flat when that happened. Anyway, the company sent me a replacement machine and I've had to reset temperature, pressure, etc. But with this machine, I'm finding (once again) that any writing on transfers is faded, red colours are faded and there's a teeny spot right in the middle of every transfer that just doesn't take at all, ie it's left on the transfer - only about 1/2 inch and sometimes it doesn't show, but it's a nuisance anyway.
Now for a HUGE problem. Artbrands have beautiful transfers called "ultra trans". They have a sticky-like backing on them and every result is a dismal failure.
Any advice along these lines will be welcomed with open arms.
Oh, and to any other newies on this forum ..... I've received lots of orders for kids' T's, rompers and singlets. I went for the bigger ones, but it's the baby ones that sell best. 
Hope I haven't bored you all too much with this diary update!!!!
Cheers, Sophie


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