# how to apply heat seal backing on patches? - Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers



## embroiderit

_I'm SOOO glad I found this forum!!!

Here's my story:
I just bought a heat press to try my hand at patches that can be
sold as iron on's for a few local youth organizations, etc.

So I'll have the heat press, then I make a patch, and then I'm
lost! YIKES!!

I know that patches can be heat sealed on things, like aprons..etc. I guess my questions is; onces the patch is stitched, what and how to you apply the heat seal backing? 

I've seen the heat seal blank patches and don't quite understand how the heat seal material will hold after you have stitched over 50% or 80% of that patch.

Am I understanding right when I'm thinking that the heat seal
has to be applied after the stitching? If so, how is that done? And what material exactly should I be looking for to give the patches a heat seal backing? 

Guess I should have found all this out before I bought my press, but better late then never  

Thanks for any insight!!!
Ruth
EMBROIDER-IT_


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## Rodney

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

I haven't done patches, but from what I understand, the stitching is on one side of the patch and the heat seal backing is on the other side (the back).

So when you press it to the shirt, the stitched/embroidered side would be face up and the sticky/heat seal backing side would be touching the shirt.

When you bring the heat press down, the backing would adhere to the shirt.


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## embroiderit

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

Thanks Rodney....

What I was trying to figure out was when & how the heat seal material is applied. I've done patches without the heat seal and that's easy...but if it is stitched with the heat seal already on the patch I'm wondering how it would hold with all the stitches covering the heat seal material. 

I just figure that the companies that make 1,000's of patches for customers, they must have a way to attach the heat seal after the stitching is done.....If that makes sense. My press arrives this week so hopefully I'll be able to find out what kind of material I need and how to apply it.

Thanks much,

Ruth
EMBROIDER-IT


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## Rodney

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*



embroiderit said:


> Thanks Rodney....
> 
> What I was trying to figure out was when & how the heat seal material is applied. I've done patches without the heat seal and that's easy...but if it is stitched with the heat seal already on the patch I'm wondering how it would hold with all the stitches covering the heat seal material.
> 
> I just figure that the companies that make 1,000's of patches for customers, they must have a way to attach the heat seal after the stitching is done.....If that makes sense. My press arrives this week so hopefully I'll be able to find out what kind of material I need and how to apply it.
> 
> Thanks much,
> 
> Ruth
> EMBROIDER-IT


OOOOOOHh...so you're actually making the patches and you need to figure out how to apply the heat seal backing to the patches.

Let me move this thread to the embroidery section...maybe other embroiderers might have some leads.

I was thinking you were trying to figure out how to PRESS the heat seal to the shirt. My bad


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## selzler

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

The patches with heat seal on them work just fine. When you heat them they even hold your embroidery in place the glue melts thur to the shirt or cap that you are doing. And if you make your own patches you can buy patch glue on rolles and aply it with a heat press. Then to your garment.


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## vctradingcubao

Check out this thread Ruth, hope it helps.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/embroidery/t11337.html?highlight=DOUBLE+ADHESIVE+SHEETS


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## embroiderit

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*



selzler said:


> The patches with heat seal on them work just fine. When you heat them they even hold your embroidery in place the glue melts thur to the shirt or cap that you are doing. And if you make your own patches you can buy patch glue on rolles and aply it with a heat press. Then to your garment.


So I guess the adhesive will hold even through the stitches!

Oh my gosh! Thank you sooo much! I've been scouring the net for days trying to find this info!!! 

Thanks,

Ruth
EMBROIDER-IT


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## embroiderit

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*



selzler said:


> The patches with heat seal on them work just fine. When you heat them they even hold your embroidery in place the glue melts thur to the shirt or cap that you are doing. And if you make your own patches you can buy patch glue on rolles and aply it with a heat press. Then to your garment.


Thanks Byron! That post was awsome! So I guess embroidered patches with heat seal applied will actually hold even when the entire patch has been embroidered...YEAH! That really made it totally clear! 

Thanks,

Ruth
EMBROIDER-IT


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## NovaFoil

In case anyone needed the information, the machine used to make the edge of the badges is made by Merrow®- International Home. It's the MG-3U. Basically, from what I gather its like an overlock machine but with a stitch that is made for badges.
They go for about $2,600.00 USD. The company I work for is buying one of these. I'm always looking for more information about badge-making as I will be asked to make them it seems 
I'm still looking for what types of materials they are stitched on. I'm guessing we can embroider them on 65%/35% poly/cotton. It's the backing I'm not sure about because you said that the adhesive backing is put there if the client requests it. What is used if we just want to sew them on to garments? We have two types of backing here, white flimsy and black that is a little more ridgid. They are both cut-aways. But when we embroider on the black one, it still doesnt seem ridgid enough. There is also some iron-on white backing that is more ridgid... so we iron 2-3 layers of this on the back of the material and that seems to do the trick.
I'm just thinking there must be layer of material that we only have to put one layer of. My intention was to use the biggest hoop we have, rack up the material with the backing ironed on to it and make about 30 badges with just a run stitch contour, then cut them all on the run stitch and then pass them individually on the Merrow machine.

Wow.. you'd think I was writing a book..

Thanks

NovaFoil


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## splathead

I kinda got lost in a couple of posts here, and I am not sure if it was made clear or not; but the iron-on glue material is applied to patches/labels after they are made. Not before they are embroidered.


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## unityembroidery

embroiderit said:


> _I'm SOOO glad I found this forum!!!
> 
> Here's my story:
> I just bought a heat press to try my hand at patches that can be
> sold as iron on's for a few local youth organizations, etc.
> 
> So I'll have the heat press, then I make a patch, and then I'm
> lost! YIKES!!
> 
> I know that patches can be heat sealed on things, like aprons..etc. I guess my questions is; onces the patch is stitched, what and how to you apply the heat seal backing?
> 
> I've seen the heat seal blank patches and don't quite understand how the heat seal material will hold after you have stitched over 50% or 80% of that patch.
> 
> Am I understanding right when I'm thinking that the heat seal
> has to be applied after the stitching? If so, how is that done? And what material exactly should I be looking for to give the patches a heat seal backing?
> 
> Guess I should have found all this out before I bought my press, but better late then never
> 
> Thanks for any insight!!!
> Ruth
> EMBROIDER-IT_


Hi Ruth,
I was looking at the solutions but I am still in the dark. I was given a sample of peel away backing that is suppose to let me embroider a design and make a heat press patch. Is this what you did? I have the same concern about the stiches cover the whole back and how do you heat press it? Do I hoop with the backing on or do I remove it after? OR is it suppose to be added after the patch is embroidered. Hope you can help me.

Bob


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## BML Builder

The way we make them is like Novafoil said, we use a large frame and embroider several of the patches with a running stitch around the patches. Then we cut out the individual patches, we apply the adhesive backing, then sew the merrow stitches around the patches. This way the embroidery is done on the material of the patch and the adhesive covers the stitches and the merrow stitch covers the edges of the patch and the adhesive. I hope you understand what I am talking about and this answers your questions.


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## vctradingcubao

BML Builder said:


> ... then sew the merrow stitches around the patches. ...


May I ask what brand and model is your Merrow machine and how much does it cost?


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## gemais

We have a special paper that is heat pressed onto the back of the badge after it is stitched out. There is two pieces of the paper. You cut the excess paper from around the badge then the customer peels off the backing and heat presses onto the garment. Dont ask me how the glue inbetween the two pieces of parchment like paper dosnt melt away but it works. I buy it at a normal fabric supply store.

Gemais


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## HolmPatches

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

The answers are not completely accurate. When you buy commercial patches with an iron-on backing, the glue melts & may spread, DEPENDING ON THE MANUAFACTURE as all are NOT identical.
If you are adding a Merrow border, the stem may block a large area of the patch covering the glue & that area will NOT lay flat or iron on. This is ESPCIALLY true if the area of the merrowed stem (end) is at a point of the patch (the patch isn't square or round but a shiled with a small area at the bottom, for example).
To your exact question, if U embroider a blank, even if it already has an iron-on backing, it is best to add another backing over the original backing since U covered possibly a large area with stitches. This contradicts what someone else said. Again, some glues are better than others. Also, soome glues are thicker tha others.
So U need to add another iron-on backing. Easy. But iron-on film, place the patch upseid down on the t-shirt iron bed (U already have teflon there), place the plastic iron-on film on top, place another pc of teflon over the film, press with a hot (400° is good, 350° may work) iron for 5 seconds, lift platen. Pull out the teflon, pull thge upper layer off, now U have plastic surrounding the patch. You usually can tear the plastic away but U may have to cut it or trim it. Clean the teflon. If they are 3" patches, U can get 12 to a typical iron bed.


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## tqd95wn

Patches can be created without a Merrow machine. Go here for instructions: [media]http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/pdf/pr1276.pdf[/media]


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## Buxxer

how do you do it


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## tyra70058

embroiderit said:


> _I'm SOOO glad I found this forum!!!_
> 
> _Here's my story:_
> _I just bought a heat press to try my hand at patches that can be_
> _sold as iron on's for a few local youth organizations, etc._
> 
> _So I'll have the heat press, then I make a patch, and then I'm_
> _lost! YIKES!!_
> 
> _I know that patches can be heat sealed on things, like aprons..etc. I guess my questions is; onces the patch is stitched, what and how to you apply the heat seal backing? _
> 
> _I've seen the heat seal blank patches and don't quite understand how the heat seal material will hold after you have stitched over 50% or 80% of that patch._
> 
> _Am I understanding right when I'm thinking that the heat seal_
> _has to be applied after the stitching? If so, how is that done? And what material exactly should I be looking for to give the patches a heat seal backing? _
> 
> _Guess I should have found all this out before I bought my press, but better late then never  _
> 
> _Thanks for any insight!!!_
> _Ruth_
> _EMBROIDER-IT_


Hi there Ruth, can you please tell me What brand & size heating machine did you purchase for your patches?


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## tyra70058

Hi there Ruth, can you please tell me What brand & size heating machine did you purchase for your patches?


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## HolmPatches

Applying an iron-on backing to patches:
This works on any size machine. If you have a cap iron, you can only do one at a time. If you have a t-shirt iron (13 x 13 or whatever), you can do 9-12-15 at a time.

The bed need to be covered with teflon or foil.
Lay the patch(es) face down on the bed.
Lay the iron-on film over the back of the patches.
Lay teflon (foil) over the film.
Set the temperature to around 350-400°.
Bring the platen of the iron (heating element) down for about 6 seconds.
Pull the platen back up. The patch(es) might be stuck to the upper foil/teflon. Pull them off which usually is a clean cut for the patches too.
Hot knife or trim with scissors the edge of the patches.
Clean the excess glue off of the teflon/foil which is on the iron bed.

The patches, if they have a Merrow border, usually tear clean & fast. If the iron-on film has cooled, it possible the patches will not tea fast & must be trimmed with scissors or hot knifed.

This works for small quantities which is clearly what you are doing.


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## mrshill

Ok, so where do I get this Hot knife. What type or brand is good for doing this type of thing.


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## kdtan71

My questions is what type of heat seal backing do you use for iron on patches and where do you get it. I've check with imprintableswarehouse.com and stahls and they don't have it. 

If you look at a back of a patch the heat seal is put on after you do the embroidery that way you have a very clean and professional looking patch. 

Help on what product to use and where to get it.


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## EnMartian

There are two types of heat seal backing, high melt backing which should be sealed with a heat press for best results and low melt backing, which can be sealed with an iron. I'm thinking iron on patches would be made with low melt. 

EnMart does not currently offer heat seal backing through our store, but we are sourcing it out right now and should have it soon. If you want to be notified when it is available, please DM me and I'll be glad to add you to the notification list.


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## blibby53

Colman and company has materials for patches.

Patches: Colman and Company - Discount Commercial Embroidery Supplies - Machine Embroidery Supplies Catalog

try this link to see what they have they have directions also. Barb


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## patchesintl

All of the information you need to know can be found at www.patchology.org


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## sjidohair

EVeryone that responded to this, thank you, I have wondered this for years,, 
Thanks a ton
Sandy Jo


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## FatKat Printz

www.colmanandcompany.com has a great patch making kit.. we use it all the time. It does take some practice but after you get the hang of it.. it works great and looks good too..


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## kdtan71

Hi Gary that's what I was planningon doing but you still need to cover the back of the patch after you do the embroidery. Thanks for everyone advice - it's all been taken care of that's to this fourm.


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## osbeckjs

I just started making patches and used felt for embroidering on and then applied a heat seal on the back with my press. Works great, no raveling and can cut right next to the embroidering.


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## lizziemaxine

osbeckjs said:


> I just started making patches and used felt for embroidering on and then applied a heat seal on the back with my press. Works great, no raveling and can cut right next to the embroidering.


Thanks for the info and welcome to the forums.


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## osbeckjs

Thanks. I am learning so much since joining.


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## osbeckjs

Thanks, I have learned so much here since joining.


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## Buechee

I don't recommend the backing. I sell patches that has it and put it on the ones I make. But I have a lot of people that come up to me at shows and want their patch sewn on after they have tried the iron-on way. 

I also saw that someone said something about a merrow machine for about $2600.00, a serger will do the same for about $300 to $400.


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## lizziemaxine

Buechee said:


> I also saw that someone said something about a merrow machine for about $2600.00, a serger will do the same for about $300 to $400.


I'm not sure but I think you left a zero off the price of a merrow machine - more like $26,000 than $2,600. And a good serger will cost around $1,000.


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## Buechee

I never said good one and your right I did leave a 0 off. But fact remains the same, it can be done for a lot less than $26,000.00 USD.


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## designconcepts

Let me hear that again  A serger will do the same as a merrowing machine? Does it do as heavy a satin border?


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## lizziemaxine

designconcepts said:


> Let me hear that again  A serger will do the same as a merrowing machine? Does it do as heavy a satin border?


I have never seen a serger that would finish an edge like a merrow machine.


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## vctradingcubao

lizziemaxine said:


> I have never seen a serger that would finish an edge like a merrow machine.


Same here..
I've seen the samples..even the converted China made "Edging machines"... it's even better not to put one (edging).. just use STEIL borders..
the original merrow machine is on a league of its own.


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## designconcepts

Hehe.......thanks. We have a serger but didn't know about it being capable of that. We'll stick with the embroidery machine.....


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## myfinishingtouch

Merrow MG-3U $2,600 new is about right though I bought ours used for $600. It is indestructible so I wouldn't worry about buying a used one.

The biggest problem with the Merrow machine is that it isn't easy to use. Practice, practice, practice. I've finally gotten to the point where I can do a circular patch well. I just did an order for 100 arched "2009" rocker patches for a motorcycle club. It definitely took a while to figure out how to turn the 90 degree corners and how to merrow the inside curve.

If you want a rock hard patch go buy some Stiffy fabric stiffener at Hobby Lobby. Don't saturate the patch or the liquid will soak all the way through to the front of the patch and make the embroidery look plastic on the front. I use a foam brush to put the Stiffy on and don't give it too much time to soak in. Then I put it in a 350 heat press until it stops steaming. We did a little over 100 Order of the Arrow service flaps and used 4 layers of heavyweight cutaway backing so I wasn't too worried about the Stiffy soaking all the way through the backing but with just one layer of backing I'd be concerned. Of cource, practice with a scrap patch if you have one to get a feel for how much Stiffy to use.

Then we use a plastic backing on the patches. Don't go crazy. Go to Home Depot and get some 3 mil thick drop clothes and heat press it for about 10 seconds at 350.


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## Olvert Ortega

Hi,.. this is Olvert and after reading the answers still not clear,.. double sided tape of curse will increase the price of the patch, but as you say I have been buying parches for some time now and the patches seems to have a melted plastic ( adhesive ) that is placed before embroider the outline!...
I found this but still confused ( this is the double sided tape mention before )..


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## myfinishingtouch

When you get the 3 mil dropcloth at Home Depot and heat press it onto the back of the patch this is to cover the back of the patch. All of hte patches you buy that have that plasticy back are made this way. Nothing fancy...just mysterious until you know the secret.


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## mrshill

Hope this is not a crazy quesition but what do you use to cover up the patch so that the plastic wont stick to the platens?

I go this stuff that is like fabric that has adhesive on both sides


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## designconcepts

I believe this "plastic" is the adhesive? The sheets should be paper-backed on one side, the glue side obviously placed down on the back of the patch. Then the teflon sheet between the patch and the heat 'plate' and it should be good to go.  Any glue that leaks out easily wipes off from the teflon and the platen.

If the adhesive isn't paper backed, perhaps a wax paper might serve instead?


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## vctradingcubao

designconcepts said:


> I believe this "plastic" is the adhesive? The sheets should be paper-backed on one side, the glue side obviously placed down on the back of the patch. Then the teflon sheet between the patch and the heat 'plate' and it should be good to go.  Any glue that leaks out easily wipes off from the teflon and the platen.
> 
> If the adhesive isn't paper backed, perhaps a wax paper might serve instead?


Yes, correct,


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## davidd808

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

hi , i saw one of you replies...and was wondering where i can buy patch glue,heat seal on a roll.. do you have a company name?? i embroidery my own patches but not sure how to tack down other than embroidering it down.. I dont know where to buy the heat seal adhesive on a roll...

thanks..
David


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## kdtan71

I was the one inquiry about making patches. I never made the patches after all.


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## davidd808

*Re: Heat press for embroidered patches & transfers*

Hi, i was wondering where i can buy the double sided adhesive to place on my patches after i have produced them.. Does anyone =have a company name..

thanks...


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## propsuper

Ck with gunold usa


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## blibby53

Here is a link for someone that sells the heat seal for patches.

Heat Seal Roll - 19" X 10 Yards: Colman and Company - Discount Commercial Embroidery Supplies - Machine Embroidery Supplies Catalog

Barb


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## tcrowder

davidd808 said:


> wher to buy the double sided adhesive to apply to the back of the patch... any suggestions or contacts...
> 
> thanks...


Heat Seal Roll - 19" X 10 Yards: Colman and Company - Discount Commercial Embroidery Supplies - Machine Embroidery Supplies Catalog
Or try the entire kit:
Patch Kit - White: Colman and Company - Discount Commercial Embroidery Supplies - Machine Embroidery Supplies Catalog

PATCH / BADGE INSTRUCTIONS 
Step 1 >> Create your design with a few things in mind. 
- Should have a satin running stitch as a border, wider is better than narrow. 
- Can also go borderless or have a border, but be cut out just outside the border. 
- Keep border and shape of patch smooth for easier cutting. 
-Selected Patch Material will be your background color - no stitches needed. 
Step 2 >> Hoop Patch Material. You can use 'topping' if desired or a TearAway backing, but I do not like to use the TearAway since it adds another layer to cut through. 
Step 3 >> Sew out patch/badge design. Tear off any TearAway backing if used and remove all traces of 'topping' if used. 
Step 4 >> Un-hoop and trim off excess Patch Material, keep all patches together if sewn out as a group. 
Step 5 >> Attach Patch Material to Heat Seal product... 
- Place Patch Material face down on Heat Press or table if using iron. 
- Place Heat Seal material face down on top of sewn out patches with paper side up. 
- Patch Material has hot melt adhesive on backside so use Teflon sheet. 
- Heat at 320-350 degrees for 25-30 seconds. Using 40 psi of pressure or significant hand pressure for iron with no steam. 
- Flip this bundle over and heat press all over again, because twice is nice. 
Step 6 >> Roughly cut out individual sealed patches removing excess patch/seal material, leaving a half inch or so of material surrounding stitch border. 
Step 7 >> Heat up Hot Knife with Universal Tip for 20 minutes, use safety stand. 
Step 8 >> Finely cut out individual patch/badge with Hot Knife... 
- Place individual patch face-up on smooth GLASS surface, begin running hot Universal Tip along edge of patch directly next to satin stitch. 
- Hand speed/pressure will cause patch to be cut & sealed, leaving a finished patch. 
- Use damp cloth as a wipe-off station for hot tip if residue appears. 
- Practice using hand pressure and speed of tool movement to guide you. 

Finished Patch/Badge can be applied directly to garment with heat or sewn on. If heated, use 350-370 degrees for 20-25 seconds. You are done! 

** Helpful hint is to heat patch/badge briefly on top-side of garment for proper placement then to turn garment inside-out and apply heat to back-side of patch so heat is directly applied to Heat Seal side of patch/badge.


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## davidd808

thanks for the tip...will the hot knife cut my satin stitch that i have as the border if i am not careful...


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## dan-ann

I just sent for Colemans trial kit. question - I would like to make the patches and sell them for people to apply them selves. Will they be successfull putting them on with a regular iron?


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## designconcepts

davidd808 said:


> thanks for the tip...will the hot knife cut my satin stitch that i have as the border if i am not careful...


Yes.  A steady hand is needed, and at my rate it takes a while for each patch. A hot knife would probably be my last choice, [for me] it's definitely the hardest.


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## designconcepts

dan-ann said:


> I just sent for Colemans trial kit. question - I would like to make the patches and sell them for people to apply them selves. Will they be successfull putting them on with a regular iron?


That's what it's made for --


> Heat Seal Roll can then give the end-user the choice to iron-on or heat-press the patch to the garment or become a 'sew-on'.


Taken from one of Colman's heat seal product pages. But even still I think sewing on (along with gluing -- ironing on would probably require longer dwell time for the lower temp.?) would be the best option.


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## dan-ann

Thanks - I realize it said you could use an iron but a lot say that and they don't last - thought maybe some one had personal experience with just using an iron. Will try it out when it comes


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## lizziemaxine

dan-ann said:


> Thanks - I realize it said you could use an iron but a lot say that and they don't last - thought maybe some one had personal experience with just using an iron. Will try it out when it comes


I think there will always be someone whose patch doesn't stay attached and there isn't much you can do about it. You have no way of knowing if the person applying the patch at home is doing it correctly - hot enough iron, enough pressure, enough time. I always tell the customer that to insure that the patch will stay on it needs to be stitched down.


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## CUSTOM UK

Stick on patches aren't 100 percent foolproof. Even things like spending too long in a tumble dryer can be enough to cause the patch to come loose, if it's been poorly applied. It is always advisable to suggest to the customer to put in a couple of securing stitches, although that does negate the idea of a stick on patch. 

Sadly a standard serger will *not* do the same job as a merrow machine that has been adapted for patches. I spent hours trying to get a standard serger to do the job, but the results just look amateur and are inconsistent. A merrow machine for patches is a purpose made machine to create professional results using a unigue specialised stitch and there is no cheap alternative to that.

Hot knives are ok for small batches but get tedious for larger production runs. With many materials you also get some fumes from the cutting process, so make sure you work in a well ventilated area.

Patches can be incredibly time consuming and are not as lucrative as other product lines.


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## Ruby MHarvey

Thanks for the info, I was thinking a serger would work I just need to play with mine, I have a good one that I paid over 500.00 for it, but that was years ago I try to take care of it.


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## Ruby MHarvey

Thanks great video


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## bwest

I saw the patch embroidery material Coleman and Company carries...does anyone know of other suppliers of that same patch fabric (the fabric eliminates the need to add so much fill to a design)?


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## tfalk

If you are going to stitch the edges, you can use pretty much any pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) backed twill. If you don't stitch the edges, the twill will fray when you wash it. I haven't used the stuff from Colman, it looks pretty expensive at $29/yard.


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## 135367

There are several products you can use.
1. Patch Magic - no heat needed. Used a lot for Boy Scout patches.
2. Products like Steam A Seam. Many varieties 
3. Google Patch Adhesives - I looked at websites a few years ago and they sell patch stuff.

Good Luck.


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