# Screen Printing on Vinyl Tire Cover, what ink?



## newc048 (Mar 17, 2014)

Hey everyone, I have a customer requesting to print his logo on vinyl spare tire covers. See link. 

Order a Plain Black Vinyl Tire Cover | Tire-Covers

How would you guys suggest printing those? I am not sure if screen printing or heat pressing vinyl on these. 

Can anyone share any advice on how to print these, which method would be better and instructions for the better method of the two?

Thanks!!


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## utaro (Jun 29, 2015)

screen printing sir, using vinyl inks, emulsion to be use on screen must be compatible with vinyl inks, use atleast 250mesh, or finer, squeegee must be polyurethane type


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## artlife (Jan 15, 2010)

this is the equivalent of making an outdoor sign. So screen print must be an ink with the longevity, durability and UV resistance required. Heat press I don't know the specs of your vinyl and its adhesive, but the manufacturer will have the information you need. I used to make large format backlight signs (hotels, etc) and we used 3M vinyl. I think they were good for at least 5 years. But 3M makes lots of different types so you'll have to research.


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## newc048 (Mar 17, 2014)

Thanks for the information! Do either of you have links/suggestions on what vinyl inks to use? As far as emulsion, will the inks work with Ryonets WBP emulsion that is supposed to work for both waterbase and plastisol. 

Thanks again!


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## artlife (Jan 15, 2010)

newc048 said:


> Thanks for the information! Do either of you have links/suggestions on what vinyl inks to use? As far as emulsion, will the inks work with Ryonets WBP emulsion that is supposed to work for both waterbase and plastisol.
> 
> Thanks again!


Your emulsion needs solvent resistance so something designed for plastisols will probably be fine. Vinyl inks I recommend NazDar. You can call them and ask them what ink to use (they have different types for different purposes). Unless you can find the chart online which shows which ink for which surface/purpose, but you need an outdoor ink. Easiest just to call them.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

NazDar is A brand that will make you look good. All their products are top of the line.


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## newc048 (Mar 17, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestion NazDar! I just sent them a message and looking forward to hearing back from them.

Anyone have any tips or tricks for printing on this kind of substrate? Up to this point I have only done clothing and a very little bit of fabric printing. I imagine overall the process is the same, just curious if there is any little tips or tricks anyone has for printing on this type of vinyl material.


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## artlife (Jan 15, 2010)

newc048 said:


> Thanks for the suggestion NazDar! I just sent them a message and looking forward to hearing back from them.
> 
> Anyone have any tips or tricks for printing on this kind of substrate? Up to this point I have only done clothing and a very little bit of fabric printing. I imagine overall the process is the same, just curious if there is any little tips or tricks anyone has for printing on this type of vinyl material.


Flat work with air-dry inks is quite different than plastisol. You'll need higher mesh screens (the ink is much thinner) generally 200-300. You'll need an appropriate screen wash, sometimes just "mineral spirits" will not adequately work with some inks. You need to be able to clean the screen while on the press without damaging it. It will also clean your squeegees. Different NazDar ink have different screen wash although they do have a "universal" that works with their 9700 series All Purpose ink, but for instance the 5500 series has its own screen wash.

This type of printing usually has to be "mistake free" because often what you are printing on cannot be cleaned and/or is irreplaceable. 
I preferred a harder squeegee (80 durometer) and you have to print faster since the ink will dry in the screen. After a print, gently flood the image area by pushing your ink backwards from the top back over the image towards to the bottom.

I'll also say that one wouldn't want to invest in the ink and screen wash just for one job. But some printers have an affinity for this type of work and are naturally good at it. So this may end up being a natural for you and the doorway to doing specialty printing.
On the flip side you can research using cut vinyl for this job as well. This place has an outdoor vinyl (and I'm sure there are other suppliers)
ThermoBANNER2 Heat Transfer Vinyl


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## logos unlimited (May 15, 2015)

You won't go wrong if you listen to Aficionado !


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

Tape up your screens extra good where you might splatter ink for fast clean up, Nazdar will stick to your frames real good. Maybe get some sticker vinyl to practice printing some stickers with your biz logo or something on. It will be a real similar pull, to the tire covers, and much cheaper for testing. I like to reclaim screens right away for luck, If you don't clean perfecty it may get clogged for life. Good ink.


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## casperboy77 (May 20, 2009)

newc048 said:


> Hey everyone, I have a customer requesting to print his logo on vinyl spare tire covers. See link.
> 
> Order a Plain Black Vinyl Tire Cover | Tire-Covers
> 
> ...


Not to sound negative or anything but I personally would avoid the job unless you are talking mega money. I have used NazDar inks, they are great BUT... #1, they stink. #2, you MUST use the right emulsion or it will "lock" that emulsion into your screen. #3, you MUST use 200 mesh or higher! #4, you have to move VERY fast, the ink will clog the screen in seconds. #5, you need to have lots of room, all of those printed covers need to sit around and dry.

NazDar is great for what it can do. But it is messy, stinky and you got to move fast. You'll need thinner to clean you screen continually to.

One tip: I did make the mistake of using regular plastisol emulsion. It worked fine. But when I was done I let the screen sit over night with a lot of the ink on it (not pooled, I put that back in container) but lots of ink on the screen. The next day, I tried to clean it, ..... LoL!. I did saved the screen and still use it today. But the emulsion did lock in and the ink was really in the mesh. I tried everything. Here is what worked: Lacquer thinner from Home Depot, 91% alcohol from Wal-Mart and a bunch of those Mr. Clean magic erasers. The screen did clean perfectly with the mesh perfectly clean and haze free. But it took me hours. Most people would have just chucked the screen. So, yes you can save a screen if you do everything wrong with NazDar inks.

Good luck!. Personally, I would avoid the job unless there was a large quantity and big money involved.


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## newc048 (Mar 17, 2014)

casperboy77 said:


> Not to sound negative or anything but I personally would avoid the job unless you are talking mega money. I have used NazDar inks, they are great BUT... #1, they stink. #2, you MUST use the right emulsion or it will "lock" that emulsion into your screen. #3, you MUST use 200 mesh or higher! #4, you have to move VERY fast, the ink will clog the screen in seconds. #5, you need to have lots of room, all of those printed covers need to sit around and dry.
> 
> NazDar is great for what it can do. But it is messy, stinky and you got to move fast. You'll need thinner to clean you screen continually to.
> 
> ...


I greatly appreciate the info. This job is actually for a very close friend of mine and he understands the situation. I want to do this to not only help out a friend but also learn a bit more just for myself. I received samples of two inks from NazDar; GV112 White and S275 Super Opaque White. 

Currently I only have Ryonet WBP emulsion will that work? As far as cleaning, what is the best cleaner to use? I would be cleaning up right away after in hopes of avoiding any ink drying and locking in the screen. 

Thanks everyone!


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

You will have to check with the emulsion manufacture to see if it holds up to solvent ink.

I used Acetone to clean Nazdar inks. You have to be careful using strong chemicals on some emulsions as it will lock the screen.


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

The most common cause of emulsion locking up from solvents, is just the right combo of (seems ironic but) under exposed emulsion, and certain hot solvents. For me, over the years, I've had the most issues with 200s with colored mesh, not white. much more than 305s and I use more 305s than 200s. But that's just with my combo of variables. Screen opener seems to be one that can do that, smells and behaves like acetone. to bad cuz I love that stuff


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## artlife (Jan 15, 2010)

use a solvent screen wash made for vinyl inks. acetone evaporates too quickly. do things the right way you'll have less headaches. I wouldn't even try the S275. The GV series are easier to use. Nazdar makes a "universal" screen wash that, if I recall correctly, works with the GV series. we used GV series and 9700 series and I think used the same wash and reducer and retarder. the 5500 series has its own additives and wash.


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