# SofStretch Coastal Paper Question



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi,

I wondering who's working with the new Coastal paper. I don't see good things for my sweatshirts with this paper. 80/20 blend. I see white between the ribbing. (the image is a little rough like lightsandpaper, I don't prefer that to the ironall.) Anyone having any issue like these? I'd like the white between ribbing to go away, and try to get the image softer. 

I prepressed 20 secs, pressed at 375, 30 seconds, med/high pressure, c88+ ink.

Stretched and repressed 6 secs.

Anyone else seeing anything like this? Is there a better way to press this?
Any advice, I'd be so grateful...


PS: Tests on 50/50 hw jerzees (I use that b/c ironall does not have a fade issue on those) went super dee duper - but the ironall test shirt I did side by side did great too, so no knocking the ironall on the above shirt for me. again, image sandpaper'y for sofstretch, did not change after wash much. Also did my usual 2nd test with warm water/med high heat dryer for 25 minutes and both did excellent again. no change. only difference was ironall shirt has light white fiber raising through image giving it a slight aged look. little bit.

more concerned how to use sofstretch on sweatshirts. may stick with ironall for them but I hope someone can give insight. thanks!!!!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I do not use the transfer paper but you can try the technique I use for pressing on heavy knit fabric material.

1) Lower the upper platten but do not lock it. Just enough to hold down the shirt.

2) Stretch the shirt (entire length of printed area) on its sides 
3) Lock down the upper platten and press for 2 to 3 seconds to keep the shirt stretched, remove wrinkle and moisture
4) Open the upper platten
5) Locate and position the transfer then press as you would normally do.
6) Post stretch the shirt after peeling the transfer
7) Cover the shirt with Teflon or parchment paper and press again for 5 seconds
8) Peel hot

What pre-stretching does is expose the material between ribs to improve transfer


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thank you, Luis. I very much appreciate your help. I really like your technique of stretching the shirt with the platen down, I'm going to try it that way, thanks.

I did stretch it side to side - but - before I laid it down for the prepress.

Do you think that is not as effective as stretching your way? I will have alot more to do tonight. I am going to try your way with drying it with the ribbing open.

I post stretched too, and repressed, I have a bad feeling.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Have not seen your garment, but my experience has been if there is ribbing, you will not get ink into the crevices..because it is not a liquid to flow down..so you will get the result you describe I think


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Charles nailed it. That is an issue with all ink jet transfer paper. It is not a liquid so it does not flow. Luis did a great job showing how to do it.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Sorry guys, newbie goof, it's not ribbed, it's just a Hanes sweatshirt. What I inaccurately called ribbing, is just regular mini tiny weaves. I started out with Avery paper doing this as a fun home thing. Then moved to the Ironall for selling, and I didn't see this with either of those papers with the same exact sweatshirts. Just the coastal paper is doing this. You know when you press a tee and stretch it after, have you ever had it where you can see the fabric pop out in slivers, then repress and that goes away (OR am I totally screwing this all up and that;s not normal either??!! haha-- i think), well, it's like that, except I can't get it to go away. sorry for the wrong terminology. I am starting in this the last 5 months and haven't studied about fabrics yet (want to-too busy) I owe it to myself to and to you guys so you don't graciously spend your time answering a question I asked incorrectly. so sorry...

I hope no one else has this problem, but if anyone has or can tell me more now that (I hope) I explained it better, I'd be so grateful....


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Sorry guys, newbie goof, it's not ribbed, it's just a Hanes sweatshirt. What I inaccurately called ribbing, is just regular mini tiny weaves. I started out with Avery paper doing this as a fun home thing. Then moved to the Ironall for selling, and I didn't see this with either of those papers with the same exact sweatshirts. Just the coastal paper is doing this. You know when you press a tee and stretch it after, have you ever had it where you can see the fabric pop out in slivers, then repress and that goes away (OR am I totally screwing this all up and that;s not normal either??!! haha-- i think), well, it's like that, except I can't get it to go away. sorry for the wrong terminology. I am starting in this the last 5 months and haven't studied about fabrics yet (want to-too busy) I owe it to myself to and to you guys so you don't graciously spend your time answering a question I asked incorrectly. so sorry...
> 
> I hope no one else has this problem, but if anyone has or can tell me more now that (I hope) I explained it better, I'd be so grateful....


However Kelly.. even an incorrect questions get us thinking about the answer and like trying to discover one thing you discover another. Had you not asked the question then an answer like LUIS had would not have happened. We learned from it.


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## LEO (Oct 10, 2006)

Odd thing...I did my first sweatshirts (50/50) with Jet pro SofStretch - last night and had EXACTLY the opposite results. With ironall... when you stretch the fabric- you see the white between the 'weave'... with the JPro... the image area retained the fabric looks and feel..less plastic-y look and JP was softer.
Amazing how results can vary.
I also did 375* for 30 secs... heavy pressure...no pre stretch.
LEO


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

LEO said:


> Odd thing...I did my first sweatshirts (50/50) with Jet pro SofStretch - last night and had EXACTLY the opposite results. With ironall... when you stretch the fabric- you see the white between the 'weave'... with the JPro... the image area retained the fabric looks and feel..less plastic-y look and JP was softer.
> Amazing how results can vary.
> I also did 375* for 30 secs... heavy pressure...no pre stretch.
> LEO


I know that if you take a transfer paper, any paper, and apply it to different substrates you will have different results. Same thing about photos. Print on different papers and you get different results. it is to be expected. The other thing is presses. I say I print at 375 and you say you did also. Then we check real temps and we find my press is actually 378 and yours is 368. Lots of things come in to play with the process. Variables are
fabric type
paper type
pre press time
press time
press temp
pressure
and probably about 10 other things..
People ask me here all the time how I got it right and they can't. Sometimes I don't. But for me that's how I learn.. and as I have said here a hundred times I try to pass it on to you.







Lou


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Yup, after reading Leo and Lou's responses, I am immediately going to switch to 50/50 sweatshirts to try to get Leo's result. For me - in my tests here - since my ink and press are constants in each test - it seems fabric content is producing the most varied results even with the different paper tests. Same paper - different shirts - the results run the gammut. Different paper - same shirts - not too much variance. Makes me thing fabric is hugely important. I like the sofstretch on the 50/50 t shirt, so my first attempt to fix this is to switch my sweatshirt to the same blend. Didn't test sofstretch on 100 cotton as I am out of unwashed test shirts at the moment.  Too many tests last week!

Thanks to all for the help and direction, it's invaluable!!! 

I will try to remember to post my new findings here after the switch - let you know if it worked.

About the prestretch prior to prepressing, what's everyone general feelings on that with sweatshirts?

Thanks!!!!!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

badalou said:


> However Kelly.. even an incorrect questions get us thinking about the answer and like trying to discover one thing you discover another. Had you not asked the question then an answer like LUIS had would not have happened. We learned from it.


 Too sweet, thanks, Lou...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I just looked at a shirt I did with Coastal paper and Epson c88+ ink.

It's possible the blue ink has smeared onto the sleeve. I do not know how, or any other way the ink could get there. It was perfect when it was finished. I took the other sleeve and rubbed it across the image (shirts ruined anyway) and the lightest blue shows up on the sleeve. SCARY! 

Did I do something wrong when I pressed this?

I stretched, prepressed, pressed 375 for 25 seconds (paper is small - afraid to really cook it), post stretched, repress 5 seconds.

The original smear is alot darker, I am wondering if it is a "drying" issue. Does that happen with heat transfers? Do they need to "dry" or cure to be set? Is there anyway to 'set' the color better?

Is ANY one experiencing anything like this with JPro SS? 

I'd love any thougths, comments or suggestions - I'm just too new to have any idea. Thanks so much!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LEO said:


> Odd thing...I did my first sweatshirts (50/50) with Jet pro SofStretch - last night and had EXACTLY the opposite results. LEO


 
Hi Leo,

May I ask you, please, what type of sweatshirt did you use? I'd love to have your results....
Thanks alot-
Kelly


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LEO said:


> Odd thing...I did my first sweatshirts (50/50) with Jet pro SofStretch - last night and had EXACTLY the opposite results. With ironall... when you stretch the fabric- you see the white between the 'weave'... with the JPro... the image area retained the fabric looks and feel..less plastic-y look and JP was softer.
> Amazing how results can vary.
> I also did 375* for 30 secs... heavy pressure...no pre stretch.
> LEO


 
I wonder, too, if batch to batch the paper might behave differently. I remember reading a thread where it was discovered later on some people receive different batches of Ironall and we're not sharing the glee...


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> The original smear is alot darker, I am wondering if it is a "drying" issue. Does that happen with heat transfers? Do they need to "dry" or cure to be set? Is there anyway to 'set' the color better?


First let me say that I haven't NOT used the SofStretch yet. However, I usually print the transfer (any brand being used), and let it dry about 10-15 minutes before cutting and pressing. I have even heard others say they leave their press open and put the sheet on the bottom platen for a minute or so to "set" the ink before pressing. How long did you wait between printing and pressing?

Maybe you should press the whole 30 seconds instead of 25 to make sure you're getting enough heat and pressure?

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but trying to help anyway. I will be trying out the new SofStretch tonight (hopefully!). Will report on my experience tomorrow...

Melissa


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thank you, Luis. I very much appreciate your help. I really like your technique of stretching the shirt with the platen down, I'm going to try it that way, thanks.
> 
> I did stretch it side to side - but - before I laid it down for the prepress.
> 
> ...


The purpose of not locking the press is to allow the fabric to stretch when pulled on its sides. When the shirt is stretched the with upper platten down (not locked) the weight of the platten will keep the fabric from returning to its original shape. In addition when the press is locked to press for 2 to 3 seconds the heat on shirt will cause the fabric to remain stretched after the press is opened.


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## LEO (Oct 10, 2006)

I use Jerzees 8oz 50/50 sweatshirts. I have used both Magic mix archival ink and Translution ink with the JetProSS paper.
LEO


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> . You know when you press a tee and stretch it after, have you ever had it where you can see the fabric pop out in slivers, then repress and that goes away (OR am I totally screwing this all up and that;s not normal either??!! haha-- i think), well, it's like that, except I can't get it to go away.


Fiber do lift up when the transfer is peeled. It is more so with 100% cotton compared to poly blend. As you have stated repressing makes it go away which is the way I would have done. Before I repress I would push down the fibers with my palm towards the corner from where the peel was started then repress.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks so much, Melissa, and you're definitely a help - getting my wheels turning, you know?

I'm sorry my mind is swirling at the moment, I can't honestly answer how long it dried before I pressed. Generally I try let them air dry at least 15 -20, I usually like to try for a few hours, but in a pinch, I have sat them under press. If you ever have this happen, will you let me know?

Coastals a little funny to see after printing. For me - it prints vibrant and beautiful and as it dries - it fades and fades a tiny bit worse when heat dried (to my now failing eyes, so take that for what it's worth - haha) but it didn't affect the final product - the color came back as vibrant as when I printed it. It was kind of neat b/c it was a nice surprise. 

Melissa - I for one will be all ears (eyes) waiting to hear how it went. Best of luck, hope it goes great and you get fabulous results that make you smile! 

I'll try to dry for longer and press the full 30, thanks for pointing me there! 
I hope it works and I will also return if it works. 

good luck tomorrow!!!! Kelly


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> Fiber do lift up when the transfer is peeled. It is more so with 100% cotton compared to poly blend. As you have stated repressing makes it go away which is the way I would have done. Before I repress I would push down the fibers with my palm towards the corner from where the peel was started then repress.


Wow, thank you Luis! That is an awesome tip I will start using tomorrow! Have a great night, thanks again.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LEO said:


> I use Jerzees 8oz 50/50 sweatshirts. I have used both Magic mix archival ink and Translution ink with the JetProSS paper.
> LEO


Thank you so much for sharing. May I ask you, when you did the sweatshirt you were speaking of in your post, which ink were you using? Also, may I ask, which ink you personally like better with sofstretch and the Jerzee SS? PS: Which costs you less?  

Hope you don't mind any of my questions, and thank you so much!


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> I just looked at a shirt I did with Coastal paper and Epson c88+ ink.
> 
> It's possible the blue ink has smeared onto the sleeve. I do not know how, or any other way the ink could get there. It was perfect when it was finished. I took the other sleeve and rubbed it across the image (shirts ruined anyway) and the lightest blue shows up on the sleeve. SCARY!
> 
> ...


hi kelly, im not sure but i think maybe i had a similar problem. i have made a few tests with the coastal jetpro sofstretch and one of my main problems was that after washing the shirts, i got smeared colors from the trasnsfer to the fabric outside the transfer. after printing the transfers, i waited long enough before printing to the shirt(at least 30 minutes) so i dont think that was the problem. i also waited at least 24 hours before washing and washed with cold water, so it shouldnt have happen. dont know what the reason for that, i thought maybe something with printing the transfer but that should not make a difference.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

shane said:


> hi kelly, im not sure but i think maybe i had a similar problem. i have made a few tests with the coastal jetpro sofstretch and one of my main problems was that after washing the shirts, i got smeared colors from the trasnsfer to the fabric outside the transfer. after printing the transfers, i waited long enough before printing to the shirt(at least 30 minutes) so i dont think that was the problem. i also waited at least 24 hours before washing and washed with cold water, so it shouldnt have happen. dont know what the reason for that, i thought maybe something with printing the transfer but that should not make a difference.


Shane, did you use dye ink in your printer, or did you use pigment ink? Before I bought the C88 (durabrite pigment ink), I used HP printer with dye inks, and that's exactly what happened to a few shirts I washed.

Melissa


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Shane, did you use dye ink in your printer, or did you use pigment ink? Before I bought the C88 (durabrite pigment ink), I used HP printer with dye inks, and that's exactly what happened to a few shirts I washed.
> 
> Melissa


 
hi Mellisa
im not really sure, i use HP printer and i have asked coastal about printer and ink before i bought the papers and they said it works with every printer and ink. but i guess that should be the problem. i have to check that. thanks


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

charles95405 said:


> Have not seen your garment, but my experience has been if there is ribbing, you will not get ink into the crevices..because it is not a liquid to flow down..so you will get the result you describe I think


 
_Charles,_ you got a _black shirt_.... congratulations...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> hi kelly, im not sure but i think maybe i had a similar problem. i have made a few tests with the coastal jetpro sofstretch and one of my main problems was that after washing the shirts, i got smeared colors from the trasnsfer to the fabric outside the transfer. after printing the transfers, i waited long enough before printing to the shirt(at least 30 minutes) so i dont think that was the problem. i also waited at least 24 hours before washing and washed with cold water, so it shouldnt have happen. dont know what the reason for that, i thought maybe something with printing the transfer but that should not make a difference.


 
Thanks for writing, Shane. I thought maybe Smurfs were coming back and hiding in my office. 

I kept looking over at it, wondering.... did I put a freshly printed transfer near it while the ink was wet and when shuffling stuff around - did they touch? 

But I know that is not the case. I'm fishing - because I don't want it to be the paper, I want this paper to work and be what it is supposed to be, but smearing means - no good, and no way can I work with this paper. 

Do you have any idea how the ink traveled? I know when I saw it, it sent a shiver down my spine - because I don't know how - so how can I stop it in the future. 

If you get any more smears or figure out why - will you please keep in touch about that? There's no way I'd like this to happen in the customers house.

Mine smeared before the wash - and yours smeared after......

I know I rubbed the sleeve across the image and ink rubbed off onto to it, very faintly, and that was many hours after pressing. 

OK, sorry that happened to you, but maybe now we can help each other. I have not used Coastal much since then as it's no good with my 80/20 sweatshirts - I need to try the 50/50 blend. I use it on the 50/50 tees with no problem.

Scott, what material did you transfer onto that had the smearing?
Thanks, Kelly


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> hi Mellisa
> im not really sure, i use HP printer and i have asked coastal about printer and ink before i bought the papers and they said it works with every printer and ink. but i guess that should be the problem. i have to check that. thanks


 
But guys, I have the same exact problem and I use the c88+.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> _Charles,_ you got a _black shirt_.... congratulations...


Makes you look so slim.. Oh wait.. you are slim.. and tall.. I guess we will be Mutt and Jeff at the show.. (I know, a lot of people don't know who they were.)


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> I'm fishing - because I don't want it to be the paper, I want this paper to work and be what it is supposed to be, but smearing means - no good, and no way can I work with this paper.
> 
> Do you have any idea how the ink traveled? I know when I saw it, it sent a shiver down my spine - because I don't know how - so how can I stop it in the future.


hi kelly
i know what you mean, i also really wanted this paper to work especially after i read so many great things about it in the forum, but it doesnt work for me either. now im really confused about the reason for this problem. i thought it is the printer or the ink cause otherwise i did everything ok, but if you use the c88 then maybe its not. or maybe it is. i will have to make some more tests and will let you know if there is any progress. the smearing was most noticeable with the blue and red in my designs. and it was bad.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

SHANE here is link that LOU has posted Pigment vs dye ink.. Why? this may give you some help


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

thanks david, ill have to make some tests with it. hopefully it will solve the problem.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

badalou said:


> Makes you look so slim.. Oh wait.. you are slim.. and tall.. I guess we will be Mutt and Jeff at the show.. (I know, a lot of people don't know who they were.)


 
Ahhahaha, Lou. I DO!! I had two friends, one was 5'5" and the other guy was 6'8" - what do you think we called them? Thanks for bringing the back up! That was.... holy cow - 25 years ago!! _What's happening to me?_


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> thanks david, ill have to make some tests with it. hopefully it will solve the problem.


 
But, Shane, what ink is in your HP? There's pigment ink in my c88+.

I sadly suspect the paper, and for me, it was the blue and it was also bad.

So what kind of ink is in your printer and what fabric were you pressing onto?

I don't seem to have any trouble with the 50/50 poly (I'm kind of hoping this can be narrowed down to at least one fabric).


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

kelly, im not sure what the ink is. it is supposed to be pigmented but i saw that the cartridge is not an original one. so i have to replace it to an original hp cartridge which supposed to be pigmented ink and according to hp should be good for transfer paper. the shirts i use are 100% cotton tshirts. i will keep you updated.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> kelly, im not sure what the ink is. it is supposed to be pigmented but i saw that the cartridge is not an original one. so i have to replace it to an original hp cartridge which supposed to be pigmented ink and according to hp should be good for transfer paper. the shirts i use are 100% cotton tshirts. i will keep you updated.


 
The shirt that smeared on me is also 100% cotton....

Please do keep me posted, I appreciate it - Hopefully, we can't reproduce it! 

Was it only the one shirt so far or have other 100 cottons done it too?


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

i tried only with the brand i use which is 100% cotton. i tested about 5 sofstretch transfers and also ironall and about 5 more different types of papers. all were printed with the same printer, same ink, and printed on the same shirt. only the sofstretch had the smear after washing. it was on all 5 shirts with the sofstretch.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> i tried only with the brand i use which is 100% cotton. i tested about 5 sofstretch transfers and also ironall and about 5 more different types of papers. all were printed with the same printer, same ink, and printed on the same shirt. only the sofstretch had the smear after washing. it was on all 5 shirts with the sofstretch.


 
WOWWWWWW! 5 for 5!!! ewwww, I think I will try a 100% cotton test shirt.

Is anyone else out there using Jetpro Sofstretch with 100% cotton?

If yes, what printer, ink, and brand shirt and what's your result, if you please?

Thanks so much!!!


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I have never had A problem Jetpro Sofstretch I use it on 100 percent cotton,50percent hemp 50 percent cotton and Bamboo I use Epson C88+ with Durabrite I use all kind of Tees-Shirts


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

mrdavid said:


> I have never had A problem Jetpro Sofstretch I use it on 100 percent cotton,50percent hemp 50 percent cotton and Bamboo I use Epson C88+ with Durabrite I use all kind of Tees-Shirts


Great, this is good to know.

Please if you use sofstretch - keep the comments coming... 

Thanks. 

It could be just Shane and me, and that would be great.

Sometimes short batches are problematic (if it is the paper and not something else) but not products overall, so let's see if we can't get a bunch of experiences posted, good and not so good so we can see what's happening overall.... okay?


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

shane said:


> hi Mellisa
> im not really sure, i use HP printer and i have asked coastal about printer and ink before i bought the papers and they said it works with every printer and ink. but i guess that should be the problem. i have to check that. thanks


Hi Shane,

I know they say that the paper should work with most printer and inks, and that's true -- it will print on the paper. The problem is that DYE INK isn't fit to work with transfers because it's water soluble, where pigment ink is water resistant. Badalou posted a test of dye ink printed on paper, and put in water, and pigment ink printed and put in water, and you'll see what the difference is.

HP inks are dye ink. Someone said that HP's new ink, Vivera, may possibly be pigment, but I don't know if that's true. You'll need to research that to find out the truth. What I DO know, is that I have used HP inks along with Alpha Supply's Double Green paper, and at first I didn't have a problem, but after the 2nd wash or so, the red in the design ran. That's what happens with dye ink.

If you're working with a generic cartridge, I HIGHLY DOUBT it's pigment ink. In fact most ink out there is dye ink. With your problem, I would highly suspect it's the ink, and not the paper that the root of the problem.

As far as Kelly's incident with the paper, I cannot explain that. Her incident occurred before washing, so I tend to think it was because of another reason. However, if you're going to rule out the cause (either paper or ink), you'll have to switch to pigment inks and try it again to rule something out, and find out the culprit.

Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> As far as Kelly's incident with the paper, I cannot explain that. Her incident occurred before washing, so I tend to think it was because of another reason. However, if you're going to rule out the cause (either paper or ink), you'll have to switch to pigment inks and try it again to rule something out, and find out the culprit.
> 
> Melissa


Right on, Melissa, if Shane's using dye ink, we're at square one. The only thing the same is 100% and coastal paper.

Is anyone else using pigment ink with Coastal and getting ink smears on the shirt outside the image area?

Thanks...


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

im looking at buying the epson printer for my transfer papers. as i saw here, everyone recommends the c88 but i cant find any here(in israel). there is c79,c91,c110. do you know if they are as good as the c88?


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Shane check and see if they use Durabrite ink this is what A lot of us start with and I think the c79 is the same as c88 but not sure


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

hi david
thanks for your answer. they do use durabrite ink.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> im looking at buying the epson printer for my transfer papers. as i saw here, everyone recommends the c88 but i cant find any here(in israel). there is c79,c91,c110. do you know if they are as good as the c88?


 
Charles put a link in another thread somewhere with a website to check which model number converts to what overseas.

Someone was asking about a c90. It was last week. If you search c90, it should come up and you can find the link.  

That's if you want to do that, b/c if this one has pigment ink, you are set. It probably would only be worth double checking if it will take a CIS system - if you're already sure about that, you should be set.

Hey Shane, if you have any problems after you switch, will you let me know? We'll be be using the same ink and paper after that.... thanks, and good luck!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Okay, Shane, I did the search for 'c90' and its the first thread that comes up - "can i use a c90...."


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Go to the Epson site and click on the area/country you are in and then check to see what models Epson is selling.. I think the C90 and C88+ are just about the same as is the C110 and C120..I think..

Shane does not say where he is located so I can't get more specific...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

charles95405 said:


> Go to the Epson site and click on the area/country you are in and then check to see what models Epson is selling.. I think the C90 and C88+ are just about the same as is the C110 and C120..I think..
> 
> Shane does not say where he is located so I can't get more specific...


Hiya Charles, _you star shines so bright on the black shirt_.. Shane's in Isreal..


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

charles95405 said:


> Go to the Epson site and click on the area/country you are in and then check to see what models Epson is selling.. I think the C90 and C88+ are just about the same as is the C110 and C120..I think..
> 
> Shane does not say where he is located so I can't get more specific...


The c88 is the c90. This is how epson makes their unit. There are a lot of countries that have power difference then ours. so they need to do this.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

shane said:


> im looking at buying the epson printer for my transfer papers. as i saw here, everyone recommends the c88 but i cant find any here(in israel). there is c79,c91,c110. do you know if they are as good as the c88?


 
Dear Shane,

Lou and Charles have given you the info you need to compare the above models.

Good luck!
Kelly

As far as if they are as good as the c88, someone would have to chime on that...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

badalou said:


> The c88 is the c90. This is how epson makes their unit. There are a lot of countries that have power difference then ours. so they need to do this.


Hiya Lou,

Shane's looking for a comparison of the c88 along side of the c79, c91, c110. 

Charles said the c110 is the equivilant of the c120.

Would it be right to tell Shane then that the c88 and its equivilants use 4 colors and - (help me out here) - doesn't the c110/c120 use 6 colors of ink? 

Shane, is this what you want to know? Things like that? Are you asking which is actually the c88 of those model numbers??


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## 2STRONG (Oct 17, 2007)

Ok guy's and girls i just saw this thread and now im scared. im in the process of making some shirts with the jetpro softstretch i will be using the c88 with pigment ink, gildan 6.1oz 100% white shirt. and it is going to be clipart with santa and three bears with lots of red. so i hope i have no fading or smearing problems. after reading all the post i will probably print the transfers today and wait till tomorrow to print them. i will keep you posted on any problems that i have. does anyone have any suggestion before i start. maybe i will post pics as i go through my process.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

2STRONG said:


> Ok guy's and girls i just saw this thread and now im scared. im in the process of making some shirts with the jetpro softstretch i will be using the c88 with pigment ink, gildan 6.1oz 100% white shirt. and it is going to be clipart with santa and three bears with lots of red. so i hope i have no fading or smearing problems. after reading all the post i will probably print the transfers today and wait till tomorrow to print them. i will keep you posted on any problems that i have. does anyone have any suggestion before i start. maybe i will post pics as i go through my process.


 
Say: "_ohhhhhmmmm" ....think positive thoughts.....become one with your printer...._

Haha, seriously, not a clue, Manny, but - really - I don't expect you should have any problem as it seems fairly isolated. BUT, I will be waiting to hear your results.

Good luck!!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Say: "_ohhhhhmmmm" ....think positive thoughts.....become one with your printer...._
> 
> Haha, seriously, not a clue, Manny, but - really - I don't expect you should have any problem as it seems fairly isolated. BUT, I will be waiting to hear your results.
> 
> Good luck!!


Just follow the instructions....... and prey..


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

charles95405 said:


> Go to the Epson site and click on the area/country you are in and then check to see what models Epson is selling.. I think the C90 and C88+ are just about the same as is the C110 and C120..I think..
> 
> Shane does not say where he is located so I can't get more specific...


Here is a shortcut link: Buy Epson Printers, Scanners, All-In-Ones from the Official Epson Store - Epson America, Inc.. Then click on Ink Jet Printers link. This gets you there faster. I have been visiting the site and printers are selling really fast especially the C88+. If any body is in the market for C88+ and C120 the printers are selling for $69.99 and $79.99 respectivley right now.


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

ok, first of all thank you so much guys for all this help.
i made some checks and this is what i got: epson sells c79,c91 and c110 in israel. all of them have 4 ink cartridges and according to their photos they dont look like the c88 but they do use durabrite ink so i guess they should all be ok. i have also contacted epson here in israel and asked about c88 or another model which will be good for printing on tshirt transfer papers. they didnt know the c88 and said they dont have a printer for printing the tshirt transfers but will have one in a few weeks, c1100 or something like that. that was strange but i think the person i talked to just had no idea.
anyway, as i currently own 2 hp printers, i think i will first get the vivera ink for hp printers which supposed to be pigmented ink and try it and then maybe buy the epson. i will update you with any results i have, especially you kelly. 
can someone tell me what is 'bulk ink system'? i saw it on some of the threads. is it the same as CIS?


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## 2STRONG (Oct 17, 2007)

shane said:


> ok, first of all thank you so much guys for all this help.
> i made some checks and this is what i got: epson sells c79,c91 and c110 in israel. all of them have 4 ink cartridges and according to their photos they dont look like the c88 but they do use durabrite ink so i guess they should all be ok. i have also contacted epson here in israel and asked about c88 or another model which will be good for printing on tshirt transfer papers. they didnt know the c88 and said they dont have a printer for printing the tshirt transfers but will have one in a few weeks, c1100 or something like that. that was strange but i think the person i talked to just had no idea.
> anyway, as i currently own 2 hp printers, i think i will first get the vivera ink for hp printers which supposed to be pigmented ink and try it and then maybe buy the epson. i will update you with any results i have, especially you kelly.
> can someone tell me what is 'bulk ink system'? i saw it on some of the threads. is it the same as CIS?


yes they are both the same which allows you to cut your cost in ink and not have to change your cartiges every couple days.


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## cutvinylimprint (Sep 25, 2007)

I just washed my first one with the Jetpro Sofstretch and I was worried but it came out just fine!!!!!! Cold water wash plenty of soap (I get clothes pretty soiled from work) And it came out looking as it did when I printed it!!!!!

HP Deskjet 5940 with HP Vivera Ink!!!!! 375deg heavy pressure for 30 seconds!!!! Hope this helps someone!!!!!!


Thanks Scott.


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## markallan (Dec 18, 2007)

Hey all,

I've been a reader of this post for a LOOONG time, but finally signed up today. Every move I make in the business I research well on this forum before taking the next step. As a result, I bought a quality press, got myself an Epson C88 with Durabrite, purchased Lou's T-Square-It, and use Gildan 1301s. The most recent decision I made was to switch from Canada Transfer paper to SofStretch. It's easily twice the price, but it doesn't have the cracking and flaking problem that plagues Canada Transfer paper, and it doens't feel "crispy" on the shirt.

But it's not perfect yet. I have spent the last week trying to get the variables right with the SofStretch paper. My observations have led to a lot of frustration, a lot of failed attempts, and a lot of wasted ink and paper. Is this normal when switching paper? My design is just black text in bold Arial font across the chest. Simple right? But here are some of the problems I've had as I play with the temperature, pressure and time:

1) the transfer peels off gummy and faded (underdone?)
2) the transfer peels off like a slice of crispy bacon still stuck to the paper, not at all on the shirt (overdone?)
3) the transfer comes off almost perfectly one the left side, but gummy on the right side, and the design is only eight inches wide (WTF?)
4) it comes of perfectly like butter, but then I notice tiny spots sticking up like little scabs waiting to be peeled off

I'm frustrated because the instructions for the paper as explained by Coastal don't seem at all accurate for me. 
a) The temperature I need is over 390, and 
b) I have had to use such hard pressure that I can barely pop the lid, and 
c) 30 seconds is the bare minimum, but if I leave if for too long, the transparent part of the transfer around the lettering turns brown.

It's tough when you never know how it's gonna work out. I've wanted to just quit so many times. Those five seconds of peeling off the hot transfer always feel like an hour as it's just a tossup whether or not I screwed up yet another shirt. Even if I lift up one side and see that it's perfect, I can't get excited, cuz by the time I get to the other side it may be ruined. I hold my breath the whole time. But when it does work out it's so beautiful I want to scream with joy.

All that said, does anyone have any technical advice given the details I've provided? I know we're all pretty new with SofStretch, so with all of our heads together I may just be able to figure this out with better than 50% chances at success. What are your experiences with the gumminess or the crispy bacon results or the time/pressure/temperature? Why are the results so inconsistent? I would love to get to the point where I can breathe when I peel the transfer away.

Mark


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

markallan said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I've been a reader of this post for a LOOONG time, but finally signed up today. Every move I make in the business I research well on this forum before taking the next step. As a result, I bought a quality press, got myself an Epson C88 with Durabrite, purchased Lou's T-Square-It, and use Gildan 1301s. The most recent decision I made was to switch from Canada Transfer paper to SofStretch. It's easily twice the price, but it doesn't have the cracking and flaking problem that plagues Canada Transfer paper, and it doens't feel "crispy" on the shirt.
> 
> ...


wow mark, I feel bad. I followed the instruction and got a perfect prints. I have yet to have a problem with this paper. Are you pre pressing the shirt. Also pre heat your lower pad before pressing. Are you applying an even pressure with your press? I wish I could see what you are doing to help.







Lou


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## cutvinylimprint (Sep 25, 2007)

Mark,

I believe my paper says 375 degrees for 30 seconds.. What temp do you have your press at? And even though it may say 375 is it really 375? I have a handheld temp gun for mine and I had to raise mine a little about 5-7 deg. to get mine up to around 375.. I am also using heavy to holy crap is this thing going to close pressure. And I have not had one mess up yet!!!

just tryin' to help..

Scott.


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## markallan (Dec 18, 2007)

badalou said:


> Are you pre pressing the shirt. Also pre heat your lower pad before pressing. Are you applying an even pressure with your press?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Lou,

Hmmm... Yes I am pre-pressing the shirt, but two things you said made me curious. How do you "pre heat the lower pad"? It's rubber and the instructions say to never close the press on the bottom pad (DUH!). So what do you mean by this? Close it with a teflon sheet between?

Also, how would I know whether or not I'm applying "even pressure"? The "dollar bill test" on all sides? If the pressure were NOT even, how would I even fix that?

'Feeling like there are rays of hope...

Mark


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

badalou said:


> wow mark, I feel bad. I followed the instruction and got a perfect prints. I have yet to have a problem with this paper. Are you pre pressing the shirt. Also pre heat your lower pad before pressing. Are you applying an even pressure with your press? I wish I could see what you are doing to help.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Hey, maybe Mark could make a YouTube video for Lou - that's be a switch!

And seriously, if you could Mark, maybe Lou could help you better. If you are losing over 50% stock (ouch) it might be worth doing if you are capable of it.

I'm not, I'd need the YouTube for dummies book, but I did go through so much paper and ink when I got my coastal paper, I thought I would be out of ink by the time I got to make a shirt. Color setting are so different from ironall. With ironall, I have one setting for lights, one for dark.

With coastal, I ended up with different settings for different designs to get the tones correct. 

Good luck everyone, happy holidays!


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## 2STRONG (Oct 17, 2007)

i had my first experiance with the jetpro softatretch and am very happy with it i used as dirested 375 heat med to heavy pressure 30 sec press time here sre my results the first image is the printed transfer which i waited over night before i printed it. the second picture is right after i peeled the transfered off the final picture is 1 wash and 1 dry. i washed as anyone would was so i could see what would happen because you everyone will not follow washing instructions. washed on whites setting with detergent no bleach and dryed in dryer with some towles (did not want to wait till they were done ) i was suprised by the result the color held pretty good. no problem well maybe one i had a scratch on the bear face but that might have been from the towels because i did not see that when i pulled it out of the washer.


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## markallan (Dec 18, 2007)

I hate to place so much pressure on Lou, but maybe he _could _help me. I'm just trying to broadcast some of the issues I'm having with this new Sofstretch. Like I said, when it works, it's the best thing ever. And sometimes I practice on extra fabric and it works three times in a row, and then I go to make a shirt for a customer on a good t-shirt and it suddenly doesn't work. 

This makes me think I need to be prepping the shirt differently, or that the thermo display on my press isn't working properly and not showing that it's overheating, or maybe I'm using too much pressure (is there such a thing?)... sigh. When I use grade 12 finite math to think of all the possible permutations of things that could be going wrong, it's a wonder anybody ever gets it RIGHT!

I'm gonna stick with Sofstretch because it's so much better ON the shirt than any other transfer paper I've seen. And it CAN'T be the paper's fault. I just wonder how close I'm gonna have to get to putting myself out of business before I get consistent results.

Mark


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I have done over 200 now and this is what I do 
1.perheat the press for 20 min to 375
2.use med to heavy pressure 
3.perpress the shirts for 5 sec 
4.and press for 30 sec then I stretch it in all over
the press that I use is *Geo Knight 9 x 12 Digital Swinger JetPress *


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I all so use 100 percent cotton,50 percent hemp 50 cotton and Bamboo shirts and have had no problems yet knock on wood


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

mrdavid said:


> I have done over 200 now and this is what I do
> 1.perheat the press for 20 min to 375
> 2.use med to heavy pressure
> 3.perpress the shirts for 5 sec
> ...


And that is what I do. There seems to be alot of issues with the paper. i am going to contact Kieth at coastal and see if he will put me in contact with neenah. he told me they wanted to interview me for something.. I think I made their sales go up.. But you know me.. If there are problems with different batches then we need to know.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

badalou said:


> And that is what I do. There seems to be a lot of issues with the paper. i am going to contact Kieth at coastal and see if he will put me in contact with neenah. he told me they wanted to interview me for something.. I think I made their sales go up.. But you know me.. If there are problems with different batches then we need to know.


I talked to Kieth this morning about issues with the paper. They have had some calls and the result of some of the problems is, from their prospective and the manufacture, is there is just not enough heat applied. Now we all know that each of us have a press and some are old, some are new and some are small and I never trusted my temp. on my old Geo Knight 9 x 12. If your getting great results as I am then leave it alone but if your not getting the paper to stick or it is sticking in some parts and not others then we think, Kieth and myself, that it is heat problem or a heat distribution problem. Here is a test. Make a test design. Cut into 9 pieces, like a tic tac toe board. Place a test shirt (Old) and make sure your press is at the highest heat noted on the instructions. Place each piece on the shirt 3 up across 3 middle across and 3 bottom across. Press and peel. See if each come off as it is supposed to. If not then you in fact may have a problem with one of the heat elements in your press. I am not saying this will solve your problem but it can help in determining if there is a problem. Lou


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Was asked to do a sweatshirt for my brother-in-law. Since I decided to try out the new Jet Pro SofStretch, I printed it out first, then did 10 other shirts with stock transfers. Since I have not done a sweatshirt before, I decided to press the SofStretch transfer on a 100% Gildan 6/1 oz. t-shirt -- that way, if I had a problem, I knew the problem wasn't the substrate, and must be the transfer.

I pressed for approx. 30 seconds (had forgotten to adjust timer on press before closing the press, and was scrambling to do it while it was already pressing!) at 375 and firm pressure. IT CAME OUT GREAT!!

Even though I know it should be trimmed, I did not, just to see what it would come out like. Well, just like the IronAll, you can barely even see that there's anything on the shirt. With the design I had, it just would've taken a lot of time to trim the image out, and I didn't think a light white box around the design would really detract from it. With the IronAll, after washing many times, I have to really squint to see where the white box is, so don't know if it's really worth spending valuable sleeping time cutting them out! LOL...

Anyway, from the one shirt that I did, I think the new Jet Pro SofStretch is a keeper! Guess I'm lucky that I got a good batch, or that my Mighty Press is brand new... Will let you know what happens when I put it on a sweatshirt.

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Sorry -- the purpose of my telling you that I printed out the transfer, pressed 10 shirts, and then pressed the SofStretch transfer onto a shirt -- was that maybe your press needs to be good and hot before trying to press the shirt?

Also, my purpose was that I did not have to leave the shirt overnight to let the ink dry or anything like that. I even used text/photo ink settings in Epson Print options.

Melissa


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

will my Geo Knight 9 x 12 is used and I have check the heat on it with heat gun and so I now what temp is that is why I dont think I have any problems with Jet Pro SofStretch I love this new paper and hope to keep useing it I have had very good luck with it and I dont trim as close as I did with other paper and some of the shirts that I have done have very good color to them some have stains on them now from work but I have washed now over 15 times was telling A friend About the washing and he said that He could not tell that they have been washed that many times and thought the pic was still very nice Now I am getting up to start my Business so hope that others can do this


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Sorry -- the purpose of my telling you that I printed out the transfer, pressed 10 shirts, and then pressed the SofStretch transfer onto a shirt -- was that maybe your press needs to be good and hot before trying to press the shirt?
> 
> Also, my purpose was that I did not have to leave the shirt overnight to let the ink dry or anything like that. I even used text/photo ink settings in Epson Print options.
> 
> Melissa


Folks please heed.. my new friend Melissa has a sleeping disorder and she can't seem to stop.. I think she needs to get some rest.. This is taking over here life.. Of course I am saying this at 1 am because I can't sleep thinking about the project I am working on.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

mrdavid said:


> will my Geo Knight 9 x 12 is used and I have check the heat on it with heat gun and so I now what temp is that is why I dont think I have any problems with Jet Pro SofStretch I love this new paper and hope to keep useing it I have had very good luck with it and I dont trim as close as I did with other paper and some of the shirts that I have done have very good color to them some have stains on them now from work but I have washed now over 15 times was telling A friend About the washing and he said that He could not tell that they have been washed that many times and thought the pic was still very nice Now I am getting up to start my Business so hope that others can do this


Nice going Can you show us some pictures of the shirt after the 15 washes?


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

here is one of the pictures this was the frist pic I did Lou you seen this when I frist did it now I did not wash in cold only in hot and dry with heat and used Detergent with Bleach all for one stuff 15 washs and this is what it looks like now I will show the other one when I get it out today hope this will help and let people know that this is very good paper like I said on other posts in the form that I have done my home work and had spend lot of time and money on transfer paper and Tees-Shirts in the last 6 to 8 weeks and so I will stay with this Jet Pro SofStretch for now thanks to Lou who let me know about this paper from the very start


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

badalou said:


> Folks please heed.. my new friend Melissa has a sleeping disorder and she can't seem to stop.. I think she needs to get some rest.. This is taking over here life.. Of course I am saying this at 1 am because I can't sleep thinking about the project I am working on.


LOL, Lou -- talk about the pot calling the kettle black! You were up at 1 a.m.?!? 

Unfortunately, I have to admit that I had a lot of shirts to get done this week (16 in all), and between work, taking care of my daughter, and Christmas chores, I've only been starting at midnight! Sleep -- what's that?!? I did get 9 hours -- of course that is *a total* of all the sleep I got in the last 3 nights combined, but that's OK, right?!

Yes, I have to admit that these stock transfers really had me perplexed, and I HATE that! I'm _*so*_ glad I finally figured it out. Next... to tackle the notorious tote bag problem!!! 

Lou, don't stay up thinking or worrying about the new project. Everyone on the Forum knows your simple formula:

Lou + New Endeavor (INeedTees.com, TeeSquareIt, TeePadIt, etc.) = *SUCCESS!*

A simple equation!  

Feliz Navidad mi nuevo amigo! (not bad for High School Spanish - 20 years ago!)
Melissa


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

ok, so i bought the vivera ink for my hp printer and as you all predicted, it solved my problems with the colors smearing on the fabric. so now i can start working with the transfers(only for light shirts for now). the only problem now is that im not sure which paper to go on. i had mixed results. i have tried about 8-10 different papers so im now a bit confused. the ironall gave better results than the jetpro sofstretch after one wash, both with colors and feel and i also have one paper from Conde which gave very good results after the first wash. thanks for all your help


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

shane said:


> ok, so i bought the vivera ink for my hp printer and as you all predicted, it solved my problems with the colors smearing on the fabric. so now i can start working with the transfers(only for light shirts for now). the only problem now is that im not sure which paper to go on. i had mixed results. i have tried about 8-10 different papers so im now a bit confused. the ironall gave better results than the jetpro sofstretch after one wash, both with colors and feel and i also have one paper from Conde which gave very good results after the first wash. thanks for all your help


You got better results from Iron All then jet pro???? after washing.. That seems strange. Seems everyone else, including me have it the other way around.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I got great results from the Ironall and JetProSS. Equal results I'd have to say, but the hand on the ironall was nicer. To start, I could toss a coin both were so good. But.... I think the real proof in the pudding for me will be longevity. Holding power of the image in the fabric. 

Hope everyone has a nice Christmas. Best wishes!

PS: Melissa, the re-bound is a nightmare!! After 3-4 hours sleep for two or three months, all I want to do is sleep 16 hrs a day now that the rush is through - haha - good luck, I hope that doesn't happen to you!! 

If you can post your sweatshirt results, Melissa, I for one will be most interested to know how it goes and what blend and brand sweatshirt you use. Thanks!


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

badalou said:


> You got better results from Iron All then jet pro???? after washing.. That seems strange. Seems everyone else, including me have it the other way around.


well, that is what i got. sorry for not being like all the others...
colors came better, feeling came better on 2 different kinds of shirts: 1 regular tshirt and 1 ribbed womens tshirt.


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

badalou said:


> You got better results from Iron All then jet pro???? after washing.. That seems strange. Seems everyone else, including me have it the other way around.


i see kelly also says she got about the same results with both papers and the ironall had a better feel. so im not alone.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Here are the shirts they both been washed 15 times the one with kids washed in hot and dry with heat. The other with letters was washed in cold water and dry with no heat I did this with soft stretch paper as of right now I will stay with soft stretch paper all the others have not stand up with washing and you cant feel the pics it is part of the shirts


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Oh, I feel like I have to add this to my post: the results I mention where I had equal beginning results from Ironall and JPSS is on the 50/50 Jerzees tee I use.

This tee was selected because the ironall performed the best on this particular tee after I tested the ironall on about 8 different tee brands and blends.

The Ironall was performing nicely next to JPSS, but on the best tee it tested best on. If I was to continue to use this tee, it would come down to how it washed later on. 

On other tees and blends, it may not be that way. With JPSS, I am looking forward to being able to expand my choice of tees beyond the Jerzee. I didn't prefer the Jerzee, but got the best performance out of the Ironall with it. I would like to use different tees, and hope I can do that with the JP.

On my 80/20 Swtshirts, the JPSS did horribly for me. But Leo, I think it was Leo, had fabulous results on his 50/50 Swtshirts, so that's my next experiment. 

Have a happy holidays everyone!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

shane said:


> well, that is what i got. sorry for not being like all the others...
> colors came better, feeling came better on 2 different kinds of shirts: 1 regular tshirt and 1 ribbed womens tshirt.


Shane, that is OK.. if that is what you got then that is what you got. I am not talking about feeling. i am talking longevity of the shirt in washing. What were your results there?


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## shane (Mar 28, 2007)

badalou said:


> Shane, that is OK.. if that is what you got then that is what you got. I am not talking about feeling. i am talking longevity of the shirt in washing. What were your results there?


hi lou
the ironall gave better results both on the regular 100% cotton tshirt and the women ribbed 100% cotton tshirt. the colors stayed almost perfect after one wash while the sofstretch faded a little bit. again, i only made one wash so i dont know what will happen with more and the sofstretch also gave good results. maybe it has something to do with the tshirts i use. i made the applications exactly according to the instructions and it went smoothly with all the papers.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> I got great results from the Ironall and JetProSS. Equal results I'd have to say, but the hand on the ironall was nicer. To start, I could toss a coin both were so good. But.... I think the real proof in the pudding for me will be longevity. Holding power of the image in the fabric.
> 
> Hope everyone has a nice Christmas. Best wishes!
> 
> ...


Hi Kelly! Hope you had a GREAT Christmas!! OK, bought Gildan Ultra 9 oz. 50/50 sweatshirts -- they're bright white, heavy and excellent quality. OK, pressed two sweatshirts -- one that I told you about for my BIL, and one for my husband of his classic car. The SoftStretch performed beautifully! I carefully looked for white in the "ribbing" like the problem you had, but nothing. Just perfect! The only thing I notice with the SoftStretch is that when peeling, it's a little gummy, and the micro-fibers of the material (?) kind of pull up with the peeling and it looks a little "fuzzy" for lack of a better term. I was tempted to give it a second press, just to lay it down a little, but didn't have a teflon sheet (only parchment paper) so I just stretched the shirt a little in each direction, and then kind of "patted" the transferred area a little. Looks perfect! If I find time, I will photograph my husband's sweatshirt as best I can...

I am LOVING the SoftStretch! I'm NOT loving the OEM Durabrite cartridges though, since the printing turned out GREEN again instead of gray (on both shirts!), and this time, it didn't change back! Anyway, how can you print a shirt and tell someone, "I know this looks green, but give it a few days, and it will look gray..." YOU CAN'T! So now I am researching 3rd party inks. Humpf! It never seems to end! I'm always researching something, or trying to get something to work! Sounds like my golf game... 

Hope all is well! Wishing you a happy holiday season!

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> PS: Melissa, the re-bound is a nightmare!! After 3-4 hours sleep for two or three months, all I want to do is sleep 16 hrs a day now that the rush is through - haha - good luck, I hope that doesn't happen to you!!


Forgot to mention that the re-bound really kicked my butt! I was SOOOO sleepy on Christmas Day, I had a hard time keeping my eyes open. Yesterday, I took the day off from work, which was good because I was practically in a coma after being so tired and having company Christmas Day! Wish I would've had off today too, but I guess you can't ask for everything, right?  

Melissa


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

> I am LOVING the SoftStretch! I'm NOT loving the OEM Durabrite cartridges though, since the printing turned out GREEN again instead of gray (on both shirts!),


Melissa,

Have you tried turning down the yellow ink channel on the C88 print setup? I've had this problem before with the yellow as it reacts with the heat on the Durabrite inks. You may have to turn it down to -15. It is in the advanced section of the print setup.

John


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

treadhead said:


> Melissa,
> 
> Have you tried turning down the yellow ink channel on the C88 print setup? I've had this problem before with the yellow as it reacts with the heat on the Durabrite inks. You may have to turn it down to -15. It is in the advanced section of the print setup.
> 
> John


Hi John, yes, I have adjusted the yellow down previously. It became apparent that I was having a problem when printing photos, and everyone looked yellow. I remembered reading about this on the forum and adjusted yellow -20, magenta and cyan +5. However, I never realized that black was a problem too, until just recently. Did a largely black design, and was surprised when it turned dark green after pressing. I forgot about that, and recently did a t-shirt with a large amount of gray text and red graphics. I didn't mess with the color adjustment, and it looked olive green when pressed, but then turned gray a few days later. Trying to stop that from happening again, this time doing a sweatshirt, I adjusted the color to yellow-20 magenta and cyan +5, and the lettering came out purple on the printed transfer. I could handle the green better than the purple, so I scrapped that transfer, and re-printed with all values at 0. It came out olive green, but this time, the color did not go back to being gray. Since it was for my brother-in-law, and the other sweatshirt was for my husband (I put a gray squiggle behind his Javelin), I wasn't panicked about the color shift, BUT I really don't want to waste a lot of ink trying to find the right color adjustment, ya know?

It just seems easier and less time-consuming to buy a 3rd party ink, and refill the cartridges, which is way cheaper in the long run anyway. I'm just aggrevated that I bought the Epson for the Durabrite ink, and now THAT doesn't work out either! I feel like I keep buying stuff, hoping this will be the solution, and then THAT turns sour, ya know?

Melissa


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Hi John, yes, I have adjusted the yellow down previously. It became apparent that I was having a problem when printing photos, and everyone looked yellow. I remembered reading about this on the forum and adjusted yellow -20, magenta and cyan +5. However, I never realized that black was a problem too, until just recently. Did a largely black design, and was surprised when it turned dark green after pressing. I forgot about that, and recently did a t-shirt with a large amount of gray text and red graphics. I didn't mess with the color adjustment, and it looked olive green when pressed, but then turned gray a few days later. Trying to stop that from happening again, this time doing a sweatshirt, I adjusted the color to yellow-20 magenta and cyan +5, and the lettering came out purple on the printed transfer. I could handle the green better than the purple, so I scrapped that transfer, and re-printed with all values at 0. It came out olive green, but this time, the color did not go back to being gray. Since it was for my brother-in-law, and the other sweatshirt was for my husband (I put a gray squiggle behind his Javelin), I wasn't panicked about the color shift, BUT I really don't want to waste a lot of ink trying to find the right color adjustment, ya know?
> 
> It just seems easier and less time-consuming to buy a 3rd party ink, and refill the cartridges, which is way cheaper in the long run anyway. I'm just aggrevated that I bought the Epson for the Durabrite ink, and now THAT doesn't work out either! I feel like I keep buying stuff, hoping this will be the solution, and then THAT turns sour, ya know?
> 
> Melissa


Ha! I feel your pain Melissa... 

It sounds like the black is a process black perhaps and not printing using the black ink cartridge?? Have you checked that in your design??


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Hi Kelly! Hope you had a GREAT Christmas!! OK, bought Gildan Ultra 9 oz. 50/50 sweatshirts -- they're bright white, heavy and excellent quality. OK, pressed two sweatshirts -- one that I told you about for my BIL, and one for my husband of his classic car. The SoftStretch performed beautifully! I carefully looked for white in the "ribbing" like the problem you had, but nothing. Just perfect! The only thing I notice with the SoftStretch is that when peeling, it's a little gummy, and the micro-fibers of the material (?) kind of pull up with the peeling and it looks a little "fuzzy" for lack of a better term. I was tempted to give it a second press, just to lay it down a little, but didn't have a teflon sheet (only parchment paper) so I just stretched the shirt a little in each direction, and then kind of "patted" the transferred area a little. Looks perfect! If I find time, I will photograph my husband's sweatshirt as best I can...
> 
> I am LOVING the SoftStretch! I'm NOT loving the OEM Durabrite cartridges though, since the printing turned out GREEN again instead of gray (on both shirts!), and this time, it didn't change back! Anyway, how can you print a shirt and tell someone, "I know this looks green, but give it a few days, and it will look gray..." YOU CAN'T! So now I am researching 3rd party inks. Humpf! It never seems to end! I'm always researching something, or trying to get something to work! Sounds like my golf game...
> 
> ...


Hi Melissa -  

What a great update, thanks so much. I will write down that swtshirt and try it. I like Gildans. I'm getting good feedback on the LSTee as well as the Swtshirts (I did them with ironall.) 

Did you get to do a wash test yet? I'm always curious about those. The wash tests for SS went very well, so I'm guessing yours will, too, and I hope they do. I hope your BIL liked the swtshirt  .

I also find that when I am peeling the SS it feels like it's really attached to the shirt. I've read other people have gotten it to peel like butter, like the ironall. I've had a few peel off like that, but can't figure out what I did different. In threads along the way, I think others have said it had to do with longer dwell time and heavy pressure. I have to re-read up on that. 

That is great news about no white showing in between the weave. Leo didn't have any either. I think I am the only one so far, so it's either me or my swtshirt. 

I really hope the problem with your ink resolves. It sounds like it's been plaguing you. Has it happened from the beginning? Sometimes, I wonder if a machine just comes off the line wrong. If it's happened from the start, maybe you should think of swapping it with a new one from whereever you bought it from. I think Lou said he went through a few printers when he tried a new one (can't remember exactly what he said.) 

I have taken a Christmas break (I want to move as fast as a slug now that I am not under pressure!  ), but I agree with you completely. It seems I am always trying to refine the supplies to get the right combination for things to just go smoothly and then I can just go on with it. I don't look forward to getting back in the ring, but I'll end up there again.  

Hope you had and are having still a wonderful holiday, and thanks for the well wishes, too. If you have any wash news on your husbands, would love to hear it. Hope your day off was wonderful!!!

All the best,
Kelly


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Hey Kelly ~ your posts are always so bright, happy and encouraging! Thanks so much for being such a "ray of light" here on the Forums! I always enjoy hearing from you!

I did a TON of reading up on the ink problem, and unfortunately, it's not a bad printer -- that would be just TOO easy! No, it's the formulation of the Durabrite ink which just isn't made to hold up to all that heat. I think it's a problem with the black as well as a problem with the yellow. Now I have to look into which 3rd party ink to go with, and there are so many choices, it's mind boggling! Right now I'm thinking of going with pre-filled, refillable cartridges to avoid the initial setup which also sounds confusing for a newbie like me -- but at least I won't have to worry about the color shifting after working so hard at creating the design!

It's just frustrating because that first I bought the JP12 hobby press, and it had a bad thermostat, and wound up upgrading to the Mighty Press 15 x 15. Then, I had a problem with the paper cracking and having a heavy hand, so I bought the IronAll. That solved the cracking and the hand problem, but it faded. So, I bought the C88+ with the Durabrite ink hoping for better permanence and washability. Then JPSS came out, and I bought that to solve the fading problem with the IronAll, and discovered the ink problem! Bought the stock transfers and totes, and that didn't work out at all (but I still haven't given up on that yet!). Uuugghh. Sometimes I just wish I could get past all this crap so I could just "get down to business" like I'd like to! I do understand, though, that everything good takes time to learn, and this is a skill that's taking time to hone as well.

Even though the JPSS is a bit sticky upon peeling (and I remember Lou saying so both on the Forum and on the YouTube video), I still love it. I did use really high pressure and pressed for at least 31 seconds plus time to open the press. Unfortunately, all of my JPSS creations are still new and cherished so they haven't gotten the wash test yet, but I am hoping they'll wash nicely. I'm hoping this paper is everything I was hoping it was! As for the sweatshirts, I got them from S&S Activewear, and I was very happy with the entire experience! S&S was great, and delivered pretty quickly, and the sweatshirt quality is awesome -- they're thick, soft and have an expensive feel for only $3 or so! I specifically bought the 50/50 because of the problem you had with your sweats  I'll look up the item number and let you know so you can order them too, although I don't know if they have kids or doll sizes...

It was "back to work" today, and I don't mean doing shirts, so I guess I better get to bed! Glad to hear that the pressure is off of you!!! Feels good, right? I remember when I was selling books on Ebay, I was SOOOOO happy when all my orders got to their destinations by Christmas, and I could finally sit back and relax a little. Nothing like it, and you certainly deserve it, girly! So sit back, relax and enjoy a cold one!  (Isn't that how the commercial goes?)

All of my best to you this Holiday Season, and every day!
Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Melissa and thank you, you're a sweetheart. Please let me know how it goes with the ink, I'll have my fingers crossed for you. I can relate to your tale of how one thing leads to another with problem solving. I think we have the same printer, but I don't think I have the problem with the black/green ink. Is it that my eyes don't see it? Is that pretty normal for durabrite ink? 

It is nice to rest. I have a retail store and schools to supply, and they're closed for Christmas, yeah, very nice break! I found Ebay to be very time consuming when I did it. I think Lou used to sell his totes on Ebay and progressed onto other ventures and away from that. For me, it was alot of work for very little return. I don't see myself ever venturing into this biz as far as Lou (wow), but I really enjoy this. I am going to hang around here to learn more from the pro's here, but am moving on to develope the other biz in my life. It's way more simple. 

Why is the durabrite ink doing that to your colors? Is that pretty standard for the ink to do that? Is it happening to mine and I don't really notice it? Should I check more closely? Thanks, Melissa, sorry to sound kind of dumb about it, but I definitely got curious after you said durabrite ink can't take high heat. Does that mean mine too? Everyone's eyes are different, and mine took a turn for the worse this year - lucky me! When you find an ink that works well with the JPSS, will you let me know? I wonder if all inks are created equally when it comes to putting them on SS, or if some work better than others with the paper? Uh-oh, Melissa, sounds like testing ahead...... I hope "first shot" is how it turns out!! So many variables, so little time and money!!! Wishing you the best of luck- 

Thanks so much for all the great info in your post, I really appreciate it. I will look up SSactive and see if I can get an A/C. Thanks for being so awesome!

Best regards,
Kelly


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> Is that pretty normal for durabrite ink?


From my personal experience, it happened right from the beginning -- from what I've read on two different forums, yes as well. Search this Forum and the Yahoo Group under "color shift" and you'll see what I mean. Black turns green, and yellow turns green -- maybe the black isn't just pure black ink, but rather a composite of colors and it contains the yellow? That's why everyone says to go to the advanced printer section and adjust yellow to -15 and cyan and magenta both to +5. Except with the gray, it came out purple with those settings. To me it's ridiculous to have to play with the advanced settings with every design!



> It is nice to rest... I found Ebay to be very time consuming when I did it. For me, it was alot of work for very little return.


I agree wholeheartedly. A lot of work and at times 30% in fee expense between Ebay fees, PayPal fees, etc. Haven't sold for over 9 months on Ebay, and hate to go back, but still have an inventory of books, and are hoping to cross-sell with the shirts... As much as I hate to admit it, it can be a very good way to get your stuff seen by the buying public...



> I don't see myself ever venturing into this biz as far as Lou (wow), but I really enjoy this.


 Me too, but don't have the time to get into it as much as Lou. Unfortunately, I don't think the shirt biz is going to give me the salary/benefits of my full-time job -- which is a shame, because I really love doing the shirts!



> I am going to hang around here to learn more from the pro's here, but am moving on to develop the other biz in my life. It's way more simple.


 Agreed!  



> Is it happening to mine and I don't really notice it? Should I check more closely?


 Quite possibly. Having switched from a HP Photosmart to the Epson, I noticed a big difference in the coloring, right away. With Epson, black has a greenish cast before pressing, and big time after pressing. Photos of people appeared yellow. People in yellow dresses? Disasterous: couldn't see where the skin started and the dress ended! I would carefully check your prints in bright sunlight, because indoor lighting can already have a yellow cast.



> When you find an ink that works well with the JPSS, will you let me know?


 Absolutely! All of my experiences/testing is now part of the public record! LOL 

By the way, just found my invoice for the sweatshirts -- they are Gildan Ultra Blend Crewneck Sweatshirt 12000. The website is ssactivewear.com.

All my best,
Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I know, wouldn't it be awesome if the shirts did the trick to bring in the money? Some people here are doing just that, though. I can't seem to get beyond 'testing' to make a real go of it. 

But it is definitely fun and definitely brings happiness to each person who receives the garment. People love their shirts, doing this now, it's so funny to realize how much they really do. I'm not a clothes horse myself, I've become aware of it watching the kids. Anything to keep 'bringing on those smiles'. Life's too short and can be rough at times, so why not bring as much happiness to the table as possible. 

I do adjust the advanced settings in the c88. I do agree that I don't want to. I have seen the yellow, which was horrible b4 adjusting. I often wish I could save the settings under different names. One day, maybe. 

The yellow was even worse on my Canon pixma (b4 I learned here about pigment, thank you TSF). 

On the c88, in addition to adjusting the yellow - I also adjust the bright, contrast and saturation. The black was not dark enough or compelling enough next to the actual photo. 

For ironall light, I use 0 bright, +2 contrast, 0 sat, 0 cyan, +5 magenta, -10 yellow. 

But ironall dark I use -3 Bright, 0 contrast, +3 sat, +5 cyan, +5 magenta, -10 yellow. 

I leave a bit of yellow in because when I take it out, the skin tone becomes to harsh, I like it on the warm side. Maybe b/c I am adjusting the brights contrasts and saturations, it's working together that -10 yellow is okay for me. I have no idea.

Now SS has totally different settings for the same images on the light paper. One image becomes -3 bright, +3 contrast, +0 sat, +5 cyan, +5 mag, -10 yellow. 

That's why I feel like a mad scientist in here sometimes. I (just like everyone else who's testing) am using alot of ink and paper to adjust the colors. I started cutting the sheets half and printing 2x3's to check the colors. Flip 'em over and send them through again the other way just to check color. Wasting slowed down when I started doing that, but still... makes ya bite your nails when you see the sheets end up in the trash.

Hope work goes fast. Thanks for the numbers on the swtshirt. Have a great day-
Kelly


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Hi Kelly,

I definitely agree on the "bringing people happiness". I never understood how much people LOVE their shirts until I gave all of my daughter's Teachers, Assistant Teachers, School Aides, etc. shirts for Christmas. WOW! People were thrilled -- even with just stock transfers! Blew my mind, and made my daughter sooooo happy!

Wow, I can't believe the amount of adjusting you have to do with your images!! LOL, and I thought I was doing a lot! I can see adjusting the brightness, contrast, saturation, etc., especially when your design includes a photo. I actually do that through my program before I even print, and I always tend to make the photos a little brighter, anticipating that they'll darken when printed and pressed. However, all of that "color adjustment" because of the "color shifting" is making me nuts! I'll probably try to take a low-cost way out of this, trying pre-filled refillable cartridges with heat transfer pigment ink before jumping to any conclusions, that's for sure (only $40). I've had to do so much "testing" and purchasing of new equipment and materials, that I just can't afford to buy a high-end CIS system and Everlast inks at the moment (over $300). What's the worst that can happen? The ink will clog my printer? That can happen with any ink with any CIS! I will, however, go with a website that has gotten good comments on both this Forum and the Yahoo Boards... 

Well, gotta go, but will check back later. Have a great night!
Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hey Melissa,

I love the ways you use the shirts to take care of the "to do" lists. Awesome, I'm going to find a way to do that in my life, too. I think I'll PM you for a little side convo.....

Am I allowed to ask what supplier and ink you decided to go with?

I've always been interested in the heat pigment ink. Sometimes, there's smoke when I open the press, and I wonder if my shirt or ink is cooking...???. Maybe I should be scared, but it hasn't occurred to me yet! 

I know I've been ready to throw in the towel over the color adjustments, thinking I'll never get them to look good. So I can't imagine what it's been like for you with adding color shifting in addition to that. I don't think I could have gotten through it. 

I hope the heat pigment inks are the answer for you. 

I love the price you mentioned in your post above. Where would I go to find that?

I don't want to invest in a CIS until I have the volume to justify the cost. I didn't realize any of the systems could possibly clog the print nozzles/heads.....more learning!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Kelly, will photograph hubby's shirt tomorrow, and hopefully get it up on this tread so you can see the JPSS in action and the excellent quality sweats  You'll also see the "color shift" because I put a gray "swish" behind the design, and unfortunately, it's still green  

Will PM you with more, so we don't take up the whole thread, LOL... Gotta get the "Little Angel" to bed first, though. Talk to you soon if I don't fall asleep in the bed with her!

Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hello Everyone, I received an email from NMP, and I posted it here, but deleted it as the coupon code may start to float the net. If you did not receive the email with the coupon code directly from NMP, please call them for it or PM me and I will pass it on to you. The coupon code is for free ground shipping for the month of january for Sofstretch light paper.

Have a great day! 
*HOT OFF T*​


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