# difference between dye sublimation ink and pigment sublimation ink



## Allan Balgley

Is there a difference between dye sublimation ink and pigment sublimation ink using it to sublimate on to coated brass
Thanks
Allan


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## IYFGraphics

Allan Balgley said:


> Is there a difference between dye sublimation ink and pigment sublimation ink using it to sublimate on to coated brass
> Thanks
> Allan


:welcome:We're glad to have you aboard!

That's a new one on me, I would think that it might be miss-stated, can you provide a link to the pigment sublimation ink.


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## charles95405

Pigment ink is a totally different ink from Sublimation. I am not aware of any pigment ink that will work for transfers to hard substrates. Sublimation is a process that in using special ink/paper your image is pressed under med pressure with heat. The heat turns the ink into a gas and the pressure forces the ink into either the polymer coating on hard surfaces and in garments, it bonds with the polyester fiber becoming a part of the garment. You must use 100% polyester garments, white or light pastel, for this process. Pigment ink is normally used to make transfers for garments...either light or dark...depending on the paper you use and the image sits ontop of the garment and is not bonded to the fibers

Do a search here for sublimation and pigment transfers....lots of info... for more on sublimation check out DyeSub.org - An educational site for dye sublimation and digital transfer printing.


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## rmreshub

charles95405 said:


> Pigment ink is a totally different ink from Sublimation. I am not aware of any pigment ink that will work for transfers to hard substrates. Sublimation is a process that in using special ink/paper your image is pressed under med pressure with heat. The heat turns the ink into a gas and the pressure forces the ink into either the polymer coating on hard surfaces and in garments, it bonds with the polyester fiber becoming a part of the garment. You must use 100% polyester garments, white or light pastel, for this process. Pigment ink is normally used to make transfers for garments...either light or dark...depending on the paper you use and the image sits ontop of the garment and is not bonded to the fibers
> 
> Do a search here for sublimation and pigment transfers....lots of info... for more on sublimation check out DyeSub.org - An educational site for dye sublimation and digital transfer printing.


I'm unsing pigment ink for A4 flag printer (EPSON Stylus Photo R230) and the printing quality is so poor. Should I change the ink to textile ink instead or is it because of photoshop design? Should I use corelDRAW 6? Pls help!!!


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## charles95405

what are you printing on? pigment ink is fine for printing on appropriate transfer paper or photo paper. if you are trying to print directly to a garment then use textile ink.... but this thread was about sublimation inks that is used to print on sublimation paper for transfer to polyester garments... again to emphasize... pigment dye ink is not the same as what is referred to as dye sublimation ink. if you are using sublimation ink you need the correct ICC profile for your ink and printer. if you are using the correct set up, the print will appear dull on the paper but will have great color when pressed


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## mgparrish

rmreshub said:


> I'm unsing pigment ink for A4 flag printer (EPSON Stylus Photo R230) and the printing quality is so poor. Should I change the ink to textile ink instead or is it because of photoshop design? Should I use corelDRAW 6? Pls help!!!


Adding on to Charles point that your materials are confused ... Corel Draw or Photoshop have nothing to do with your issues, assuming you set up correctly either program can make art for any media very well. You have a materials ink/paper selection problem, nothing to do with what art program you pick.


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## selanac

Also, many printers come with a standard Dye Ink. That is NOT Dye Sublimation. Dye Ink is mainly used for printing everyday jobs like reports, website stuff you want to save etc. Will it work on a Inkjet transfer? Yes, but it will wash out sooner. 

Pigment ink is usually printed on Inkjet printers. They use transfers like, 3g Opaque, and JPSS. 

Dye Sublimation, is printed using Dye Sub ink, and printed on Dye Sub paper. It's than pressed on 100% Polyester materials for soft surfaces, and Dye Sub coated material for Hard Surfaces. 

Your paper needs to specify which one.


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## rmreshub

charles95405 said:


> what are you printing on? pigment ink is fine for printing on appropriate transfer paper or photo paper. if you are trying to print directly to a garment then use textile ink.... but this thread was about sublimation inks that is used to print on sublimation paper for transfer to polyester garments... again to emphasize... pigment dye ink is not the same as what is referred to as dye sublimation ink. if you are using sublimation ink you need the correct ICC profile for your ink and printer. if you are using the correct set up, the print will appear dull on the paper but will have great color when pressed


Thanks for the advice! I print directly on the garment actually. I'll change to textile ink as suggested!


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## Doublecrunch

I'm wanting to print onto JetPro sofstretch will sublimation inks take or would I be better using dye based inks??


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## mgparrish

Doublecrunch said:


> I'm wanting to print onto JetPro sofstretch will sublimation inks take or would I be better using dye based inks??


Sublimation inks won't be any advantage over pigment inks on JPSS, don't use regular dye inks they will fade in the wash and also bleed out.


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## selanac

Double Crunch, you need Sublimation paper for Hard, Soft or Hybrid (both hard and soft surfaces) with Dye Sublimation Ink. You can print on DyeSub Store paper or other brands. Believe Amazon and ebay has it. 

Jetpro transfers works best with Pigment ink. Try Cobra ink. CobraInk.com They're a little more expensive, but well worth the outcome. If you want returning customers use this ink. They also have customer service which many other suppliers don't have.


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## Julie Clark

So it sounds to me like if you use sublimation ink and paper then you need to heat press them onto polyester clothing or it won't show up correctly. We have the sublimation ink with the CISS system and the sublimation paper. We have been transferring them onto shirts that are 90% cotton and 10% polyester and they are not showing up very bright and they fade in the wash. If I use pigment ink would it be better. Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Julie


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## mgparrish

Julie Clark said:


> So it sounds to me like if you use sublimation ink and paper then you need to heat press them onto polyester clothing or it won't show up correctly.
> *Yes*
> 
> We have the sublimation ink with the CISS system and the sublimation paper. We have been transferring them onto shirts that are 90% cotton and 10% polyester and they are not showing up very bright and they fade in the wash.
> 
> *To be expected.*
> 
> 
> If I use pigment ink would it be better.
> 
> *Yes.*
> 
> Any advice would be great.
> 
> *Papers like JPSS work better on white 50/50.*
> 
> Thanks
> Julie


 I marked up above.


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## selanac

Also it depends where you got your ink. Some Sublimation Inks are thinned out and don't work as well.


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## Ayra

selanac said:


> Also, many printers come with a standard Dye Ink. That is NOT Dye Sublimation. Dye Ink is mainly used for printing everyday jobs like reports, website stuff you want to save etc. Will it work on a Inkjet transfer? Yes, but it will wash out sooner.
> 
> Pigment ink is usually printed on Inkjet printers. They use transfers like, 3g Opaque, and JPSS.
> 
> Dye Sublimation, is printed using Dye Sub ink, and printed on Dye Sub paper. It's than pressed on 100% Polyester materials for soft surfaces, and Dye Sub coated material for Hard Surfaces.
> 
> Your paper needs to specify which one.



How could I print onto cotton or hessian with sublimation ink?
Do I need to coated the cotton or hessian fabric at first.

With regard the hard material that need to be coated at first - can i do it by myself simply bringing a coat of coating material?


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## adriatic

Ayra said:


> How could I print onto cotton or hessian with sublimation ink?
> Do I need to coated the cotton or hessian fabric at first.
> 
> With regard the hard material that need to be coated at first - can i do it by myself simply bringing a coat of coating material?


Not necessarily

You may use some Hybrid print system. In this case we have sublimation ink transfer on sponge


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## Ayra

And how do I use that hybrid system?
What system is that?


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## adriatic

Ayra said:


> And how do I use that hybrid system?
> What system is that?


You take first an Hybrid system kit. It i A + B +c component system

A component is sublimation ink
B component is verified smudge free Photo quality transfer paper
C component is suitable Developer in powder verified that it works with A + B component and SPONGE.

If these component are not verified then you can have a lot of troubles
For instance
1. The printout would not be PHOTO quality because of interbreeding of sublimation ink on un suitable transfer paper.
2. For the same reason on some competitive systems you need to pull out PICA wheels on you printer, Because you will get these mark on your paper
3. The Developer in Powder also should be verified for SPONGE. Otherwise it would not hold a second on sponge when you wash a dish. Or you will burn a sponge in hat press. So these properties of Developer are very critical.

May there are some other problem but I can not think out of some other reason why this kit so important as one package.

Sometime it important to select a suitable printer because if you like to use color or dark sponge you need to take some suitable RIP and be able to over saturate the print. Or you should be able print twice on the same paper without a shift.

And some printers can that and some can not. And also some competitive Hybrid product are complete useless in this case because their print is not smudge free.

So it is highly advisable that you firs ask for samples before you bay something like that and comer the results from two or more vendors. But if the canon send you or refuse to send you their or your samples printed with this system the you knew that you will have above problems with this product.


Once again you must ask your vendor firs for printed samples. Because is Hybrid Print concept is new and people like to steel the concept or idea not knowing all technical details, because it sound so good that they started advertising campaign. And now the are hanging in the air and they are not able to supply you with samples because they do not have A+B+C+D+E working chain.


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## Ayra

Thank you *adriatic*
I try now to set up a sublimation system....
I already S Ph Epson 1500w
I have a CISS and a set of sublimation ink (dye) for it.
I have ordered sublimation paper 

My plan is to print onto cushions and other fabric material and I have found ready cushions covers suitable for sublimation print, but......
I want to have the freedom to print onto EVERYTHING, so that I asked if there is a way to prepare in advance this EVERYTHING for printing (well - as long as it fits in the heat-press).

So What is *A component *"Hybrid system"? Is the system I have described above hybrid?
What is *B component* "verified smudge free Photo quality transfer paper"? Does the paper they advertise as Sublimation paper would do the job?
And at last What is *C component* "suitable Developer in powder verified that it works with A and B" You totally lost me here. 

I am wondering if I do need to add something else to the system I already have (but didn't set up yet) in order to increase the variety of things I can print on. 
When the paper come I will experiment how to work with it and what I can print on, but now I need an advice if I need to order something else.....

Regards
A


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## adriatic

Ayra said:


> Thank you *adriatic*
> I try now to set up a sublimation system....
> I already S Ph Epson 1500w
> I have a CISS and a set of sublimation ink (dye) for it.
> I have ordered sublimation paper
> 
> My plan is to print onto cushions and other fabric material and I have found ready cushions covers suitable for sublimation print, but......
> I want to have the freedom to print onto EVERYTHING, so that I asked if there is a way to prepare in advance this EVERYTHING for printing (well - as long as it fits in the heat-press).
> 
> So What is *A component *"Hybrid system"? Is the system I have described above hybrid?
> What is *B component* "verified smudge free Photo quality transfer paper"? Does the paper they advertise as Sublimation paper would do the job?
> And at last What is *C component* "suitable Developer in powder verified that it works with A and B" You totally lost me here.
> 
> I am wondering if I do need to add something else to the system I already have (but didn't set up yet) in order to increase the variety of things I can print on.
> When the paper come I will experiment how to work with it and what I can print on, but now I need an advice if I need to order something else.....
> 
> Regards
> A


A == Sublimation Ink
B == Sublimation paper
C == Sublimation Powder
D == Inkjet printer
E == Driver or ICC profile or RIP Softer

If all these A + B + C + D + E ares verified by your vendor then you will get optimal result. If one link in this chain is in question the whole chain is useless. Or you will not be satisfied with result and you would not knew which link A B C D E is responsible for that.

Therefore it is important that you first ask for samples printed on some verified A +B+C+D +E chain. Than you can later on your own risk and on your own time cost try to verify some other link in this chain. And you would be able to see a difference and justify why some should verify every particular link in this chain.

In fact this is almost the same process you can find in any laser printers. But in this case we are using inkjet ink as charge agent for forming a image. And you fuse a image on substrate by heat press. If you change one link in your laser charging system like suitable toner voltage or fusing temperature or fusing time or fusing paper or foil your laser need to go at service to be verified and adjusted.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> You take first an Hybrid system kit. It i A + B +c component system
> 
> A component is sublimation ink
> B component is verified smudge free Photo quality transfer paper
> C component is suitable Developer in powder verified that it works with A + B component and SPONGE.
> 
> If these component are not verified then you can have a lot of troubles
> For instance
> 1. The printout would not be PHOTO quality because of interbreeding of sublimation ink on un suitable transfer paper.
> 2. For the same reason on some competitive systems you need to pull out PICA wheels on you printer, Because you will get these mark on your paper
> 3. The Developer in Powder also should be verified for SPONGE. Otherwise it would not hold a second on sponge when you wash a dish. Or you will burn a sponge in hat press. So these properties of Developer are very critical.
> 
> May there are some other problem but I can not think out of some other reason why this kit so important as one package.
> 
> Sometime it important to select a suitable printer because if you like to use color or dark sponge you need to take some suitable RIP and be able to over saturate the print. Or you should be able print twice on the same paper without a shift.
> 
> And some printers can that and some can not. And also some competitive Hybrid product are complete useless in this case because their print is not smudge free.
> 
> So it is highly advisable that you firs ask for samples before you bay something like that and comer the results from two or more vendors. But if the canon send you or refuse to send you their or your samples printed with this system the you knew that you will have above problems with this product.
> 
> 
> Once again you must ask your vendor firs for printed samples. Because is Hybrid Print concept is new and people like to steel the concept or idea not knowing all technical details, because it sound so good that they started advertising campaign. And now the are hanging in the air and they are not able to supply you with samples because they do not have A+B+C+D+E working chain.


What vendors are you talking about that supplies printed samples for this "Hybrid Print" concept?

You have been posting here on and off since 2013 pitching this stuff, and I have yet to see any one else in this business offering any kind of system like this.

So are you providing the samples?

You say this is "new" but your posts going back to 2013 indicate basically the same thing.


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> What vendors are you talking about that supplies printed samples for this "Hybrid Print" concept?
> 
> You have been posting here on and off since 2013 pitching this stuff, and I have yet to see any one else in this business offering any kind of system like this.
> 
> So are you providing the samples?
> 
> You say this is "new" but your posts going back to 2013 indicate basically the same thing.


Sorry this is technical corner not marketing So we need to keep on with these rules. So look after help with a Google and Facebook or >Tiny-eye<

If you do ave any other different question, just ask.

Right now I have purchased some kitchen or furniture duster or kitchen cloth. If you are interested we can try this sublimation transfer on this woolly material .

I do not have absolute any idea how it would work out with this technology. 

But you must agree that that would be a great marketing give away product. Evey housekeeper like to use it. Specially if they get it for free.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Sorry this is technical corner not marketing So we need to keep on with these rules. So look after help with a Google and Facebook or >Tiny-eye<


In that case the topic is " difference between dye sublimation ink and pigment sublimation ink".

But I get how this works, but you are still self promoting here claiming to be showing off your product "technically" but without really doing any direct sales in this thread.

I guess that is "code" for me to send you a private message and you'll tell me where I can buy this stuff from you?


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> In that case the topic is " difference between dye sublimation ink and pigment sublimation ink".
> 
> But I get how this works, but you are still self promoting here claiming to be showing off your product "technically" but without really doing any direct sales in this thread.
> 
> I guess that is "code" for me to send you a private message and you'll tell me where I can buy this stuff from you?


There is a great difference between pigment dye and sublimation ink.

Tu understand a difference just imagine you do have an brush with each of these ink. And you make a mark on the paper with each brush. You will get certain color on paper.

But if you do the next pass over previous sing. In a case of Dye ink you will get double density. But in a case of good pigment or sublimation ink you would not see any significant color density, unless you do have pure saturated pigment ink. The same is with sublimation ink on the first sight.

But after sublimation the effect would be the same as with a dye. There fore some people are calling sublimation ink dye sublimation ink while this in fact pigment ink. But there is one more thing dye ink is transparent ink. And sublimated printout is also transparent and therefore these printout are not suitable on color or dark material. But if you build up few layers of pigment ink you do not get color build up but you get covering power. And these inks are suitable for printing on color or dark in some way.

If you understood that that you may understand why we do have a great advantage with this Hybrid print Sublimation process.

Simply because now pigment in sublimation ink is not trow-en a way like in all other sublimation application. It stay in developer and at the same moment with sublimation colorize developer. So you do have at that same moment the best part of dye and pigment ink effect.

Just take a look at out sample at previews threat about sublimation on cotton. You can clearly see that effect but until now you did not knew why.

If you understood all that than you can understand that in this case you can not use ordinary sublimation paper in Hybrid print sublimation process because on normal sublimation paper subčiamtion pigment stay on sublimation transfer throw a way paper.

Why all component should be adjusted and verified

OK?


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> There is a great difference between pigment dye and sublimation ink.
> 
> Tu understand a difference just imagine you do have an brush with each of these ink. And you make a mark on the paper with each brush. You will get certain color on paper.
> 
> But if you do the next pass over previous sing. In a case of Dye ink you will get double density. But in a case of good pigment or sublimation ink you would not see any significant color density, unless you do have pure saturated pigment ink. The same is with sublimation ink on the first sight.
> 
> But after sublimation the effect would be the same as with a dye. There fore some people are calling sublimation ink dye sublimation ink while this in fact pigment ink. But there is one more thing dye ink is transparent ink. And sublimated printout is also transparent and therefore these printout are not suitable on color or dark material. But if you build up few layers of pigment ink you do not get color build up but you get covering power. And these inks are suitable for printing on color or dark in some way.
> 
> If you understood that that you may understand why we do have a great advantage with this *Hybrid print Sublimation process*.
> 
> Simply because now pigment in sublimation ink is not trow-en a way like in all other sublimation application. It stay in developer and at the same moment with sublimation colorize developer. So you do have at that same moment the best part of dye and pigment ink effect.
> 
> Just take a look at out sample at previews threat about sublimation on cotton. You can clearly see that effect but until now you did not knew why.
> 
> OK?


But you are still self promoting your wares here. This thread is about the difference between sublimation and pigment inks. No matter how you describe or answer the original topic you still find a way to "walk it back" to your product.

Suggest you pay for some ad space like other vendors do here.

We would not have much of a good user forum if every vendor came in and promoted their products in such a way inserting their specific products unsolicited into these threads.

This really is not fair to the other vendors who pay for advertising here.


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## Ayra

adriatic said:


> A == Sublimation Ink
> B == Sublimation paper
> C == Sublimation Powder
> D == Inkjet printer
> E == Driver or ICC profile or RIP Softer
> 
> If all these A + B + C + D + E ares verified by your vendor then you will get optimal result. If one link in this chain is in question the whole chain is useless. Or you will not be satisfied with result and you would not knew which link A B C D E is responsible for that.
> 
> Therefore it is important that you first ask for samples printed on some verified A +B+C+D +E chain. Than you can later on your own risk and on your own time cost try to verify some other link in this chain. And you would be able to see a difference and justify why some should verify every particular link in this chain.
> 
> In fact this is almost the same process you can find in any laser printers. But in this case we are using inkjet ink as charge agent for forming a image. And you fuse a image on substrate by heat press. If you change one link in your laser charging system like suitable toner voltage or fusing temperature or fusing time or fusing paper or foil your laser need to go at service to be verified and adjusted.


I still can not understand what powder this meant to be (C according to the above text) and how and when you use it.

As far as I know the proses is simple
1 Print image with sublimation printer onto sublimation paper (mirrored) 
2. transfer the image onto the surface you want using a heat press (middle pressure and hight temperature)... 
The service have to be polyester or another synthetic material.

When and how do you use the powder?

A


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## adriatic

Ayra said:


> I still can not understand what powder this meant to be (C according to the above text) and how and when you use it.
> 
> As far as I know the proses is simple
> 1 Print image with sublimation printer onto sublimation paper (mirrored)
> 2. transfer the image onto the surface you want using a heat press (middle pressure and hight temperature)...
> The service have to be polyester or another synthetic material.
> 
> When and how do you use the powder?
> 
> A


 Because you want to print on any material. If that material is not synthetic receptor for sublimation vapors, these vapors can not anchor itself on anything and these color information finish in the air.

But in this case you bring a suitable anchor for sublimation vapors only where you want it. If you use some polymer transfer paper you transfer that anchor all the way it is your paper size. But in the case of Hybrid print for sublimation on white and light T shirt you do have 100% self weeding effect. And that is why these print out are so soft hand.


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## Ayra

adriatic said:


> Because you want to print on any material. If that material is not synthetic receptor for sublimation vapors, these vapors can not anchor itself on anything and these color information finish in the air.
> 
> But in this case you bring a suitable anchor for sublimation vapors only where you want it. If you use some polymer transfer paper you transfer that anchor all the way it is your paper size. But in the case of Hybrid print for sublimation on white and light T shirt you do have 100% self weeding effect. And that is why these print out are so soft hand.


Does it means that ones I transfer onto the transfer paper (or any other suitable one) the powder to anchor the vapors 
and the second time you transfer the vapors itself?


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## Ayra

adriatic said:


> Because you want to print on any material. If that material is not synthetic receptor for sublimation vapors, these vapors can not anchor itself on anything and these color information finish in the air.
> 
> But in this case you bring a suitable anchor for sublimation vapors only where you want it. If you use some polymer transfer paper you transfer that anchor all the way it is your paper size. But in the case of Hybrid print for sublimation on white and light T shirt you do have 100% self weeding effect. And that is why these print out are so soft hand.


Does it means that ones I transfer onto the transfer paper (or any other suitable one) the powder to anchor the vapors 
and the second time you transfer the vapors itself?


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## GordonM

For those of us in the US, and selling product that is intended for children 12 and under, the technical details of how this works is irrelevant. We're back to an unknown material in this "powder," and unless it has been independently tested and certified, a garment made with it cannot be legally sold for products meant for children. That's a HUGE market to lose.

The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) | CPSC.gov

This looks similar to the two-step laser toner transfer process that is a major PITA, and very expensive. These papers use a powder that is transferred and annealed to the shirt. The transfer adheres where toner was deposited on the first transfer sheet. 

I never did try applying sub dye to the white mask left on the shirt, but theoretically they could develop a transferrable dry powder that is intended for subbing. The question becomes, can such a product be sold with A) appropriate CPSIA certification, and B), at a per-shirt cost that doesn't make it cheaper and less time consuming to just farm out the work to a local DTG house.

I *love* emerging technology that tackles old problems, but in this case, a YouTube video could be useful in addressing the questions about how labor intensive this process is.


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## adriatic

GordonM said:


> For those of us in the US, and selling product that is intended for children 12 and under, the technical details of how this works is irrelevant. We're back to an unknown material in this "powder," and unless it has been independently tested and certified, a garment made with it cannot be legally sold for products meant for children. That's a HUGE market to lose.
> 
> The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) | CPSC.gov
> 
> This looks similar to the two-step laser toner transfer process that is a major PITA, and very expensive. These papers use a powder that is transferred and annealed to the shirt. The transfer adheres where toner was deposited on the first transfer sheet.
> 
> I never did try applying sub dye to the white mask left on the shirt, but theoretically they could develop a transferrable dry powder that is intended for subbing. The question becomes, can such a product be sold with A) appropriate CPSIA certification, and B), at a per-shirt cost that doesn't make it cheaper and less time consuming to just farm out the work to a local DTG house.
> 
> I *love* emerging technology that tackles old problems, but in this case, a YouTube video could be useful in addressing the questions about how labor intensive this process is.


No problem
In that case you print on different transfer paper with verified and certified DTG ink. And you got the same effect like printing with DTG device. 

Do you want an image as a proof ?

Are these DTG inks and impregnation staff certified enough?

But in that case we are talking about something that is not called sublimation.


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## mgparrish

GordonM said:


> For those of us in the US, and selling product that is intended for children 12 and under, the technical details of how this works is irrelevant. We're back to an unknown material in this "powder," and unless it has been independently tested and certified, a garment made with it cannot be legally sold for products meant for children. That's a HUGE market to lose.
> 
> The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) | CPSC.gov
> 
> This looks similar to the two-step laser toner transfer process that is a major PITA, and very expensive. These papers use a powder that is transferred and annealed to the shirt. The transfer adheres where toner was deposited on the first transfer sheet.
> 
> I never did try applying sub dye to the white mask left on the shirt, but theoretically they could develop a transferrable dry powder that is intended for subbing. The question becomes, can such a product be sold with A) appropriate CPSIA certification, and B), at a per-shirt cost that doesn't make it cheaper and less time consuming to just farm out the work to a local DTG house.
> 
> I *love* emerging technology that tackles old problems, but in this case, a YouTube video could be useful in addressing the questions about how labor intensive this process is.


In addition to the regulation you mentioned there are also flammability standards which apply to adult t-shirts as well specifically 

http://gsi.nist.gov/global/docs/apparel_guide.pdf

starting at page 12 ...

After January 26, 2011, every manufacturer of a *non-children’s* product (and the private labeler of
such product, if such product bears a private label) is subject to CPSC regulations pertaining to:
• Carpets and rugs (16 CFR Parts 1630 and 1631)
• Vinyl plastic film (16 CFR Part 1611)
• *Wearing apparel* (16 CFR Part 1610) 

16 CFR 1610 – Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles

The childrens legislation took effect first in 2008

"Children’s Apparel and Sleepwear Only
The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (“CPSIA”) enacted in 2008 regulates specific substances in children’s products, including children’s apparel and sleepwear. The CPSIA sets limits for lead content and phthalates in children’s products. A children’s product is defined as a consumer product designed or intended primarily for children age 12 years or younger.

With respect to children’s apparel, Section 101(a) of the CPSIA restricts children’s products, including children’s apparel and sleepwear, to a lead content limit of 100 parts per million (ppm). In addition, the use of paint or surface coating on children’s apparel and sleepwear must not exceed a lead content limit of 90 ppm.

Additionally, Section 108 of CPSIA states that children’s toys and child care articles cannot contain more that 0.1% of six phthalates (e.g., DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DIDP, and DnOP). 
Page | 12

Although children’s clothing does not need to be certified to this requirement, children’s sleepwear or bibs intended for children age 3 years or younger and any children’s textile product that is intended for use in play must be certified.

*MP added note : T-shirts are deemed "sleepware"
*

Certificates and Mandatory Third-Party Testing 

Section 102 of the CPSIA requires every manufacturer or importer of all consumer products that are subject to a consumer product safety rule enforced by the CPSC to issue a certificate stating that the product complies with the applicable standard, regulation, or ban. 

The certificate must accompany the product and be furnished to the retailer or distributor. Section 102 also requires the manufacturers or importers of children’s products (products intended for children age 12 years or younger) to certify that the products comply with all relevant product safety standards by issuing a children’s product certificate supported by tests performed by a CPSC-accepted third-party testing laboratory that has been accredited. CPSC also has regulations pertaining to certificates of compliance; they can be found at 16 CFR 1110."


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> No problem
> In that case you print on different transfer paper with verified and certified DTG ink. And you got the same effect like printing with DTG device.
> 
> Do you want an image as a proof ?
> 
> Are these DTG inks and impregnation staff certified enough?
> 
> But in that case we are talking about something that is not called sublimation.


This regulation Gordon mentioned and the other I mentioned is not specific to the type of decoration. 

Do you have a cert for your material as applied onto a article of clothing? 

If not then yourself and anyone else using your product are subject to huge lawsuits and fines if you are not complaint, in the USA that is.

I don't have the foreign info handy, but rest assured the EU and Canada are always more strict in product regulations.


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> This regulation Gordon mentioned and the other I mentioned is not specific to the type of decoration.
> 
> Do you have a cert for your material as applied onto a article of clothing?
> 
> If not then yourself and anyone else using your product are subject to huge lawsuits and fines if you are not complaint, in the USA that is.
> 
> I don't have the foreign info handy, but rest assured the EU and Canada are always more strict in product regulations.


What if you are using USA produced and certified materials.

For instance 
You take USA produced or certified sublimation T Shirt. Mill it to 100 um powder. 
You take USA produced and certified food grade adhesive in powder.
You take USA produced cosmetic and pharmaceutical certified anti static powder used for babies. 
You take USA produced or certified deodorant in powder

Is than this powder good enough, safe and certified?

Or you buy a kit with USA made DTG ink + USA made pre treatment liquid for garamount + USA made transfer parer. And made a transfer to T shirt

What is a difference?

Is this just typical bogeyman issue? 
As I said somewhere before: when someones interest are affected than the craws or hawks are flying around scarecrow.


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## sindhu g n

hi

Pigment does not dissolve completely. It is more like a flour and water mixture. Because of this, dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers. But the dye will re-dissolve and the ink will flow across the paper if drops of water hit the paper.

ye-based inks tend to be cheaper and water soluble, explaining why dye inks are more likely to smear. Dye ink generally takes more time to dry and results can be poor if a drop of water hit a page.

A pigment is a dry, powdery substance that must be mixed with a liquid like water to leave behind black, white or color. We don't need to get too detailed in the science of pigment ink, but it will suffice to say that the pigment is not necessarily water soluble, but it may remain suspended in the liquid.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> What if you are using USA produced and certified materials.
> 
> For instance
> You take USA produced or certified sublimation T Shirt. Mill it to 100 um powder.
> You take USA produced and certified food grade adhesive in powder.
> You take USA produced cosmetic and pharmaceutical certified anti static powder used for babies.
> You take USA produced or certified deodorant in powder
> 
> Is than this powder good enough, safe and certified?
> 
> Or you buy a kit with USA made DTG ink + USA made pre treatment liquid for garamount + USA made transfer parer. And made a transfer to T shirt
> 
> What is a difference?
> 
> Is this just typical bogeyman issue?
> As I said somewhere before: when someones interest are affected than the craws or hawks are flying around scarecrow.


You are completely missing the point. Read the spec, I posted it.

I cannot begin to address your questions, they are irrational. So I'll state it again in simple terms.

Did you have your process tested and did it pass for hazardous substances and flammability?


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## mgparrish

sindhu g n said:


> hi
> 
> Pigment does not dissolve completely. It is more like a flour and water mixture. Because of this, dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers. But the dye will re-dissolve and the ink will flow across the paper if drops of water hit the paper.
> 
> ye-based inks tend to be cheaper and water soluble, explaining why dye inks are more likely to smear. Dye ink generally takes more time to dry and results can be poor if a drop of water hit a page.
> 
> A pigment is a dry, powdery substance that must be mixed with a liquid like water to leave behind black, white or color. We don't need to get too detailed in the science of pigment ink, but it will suffice to say that the pigment is not necessarily water soluble, but it may remain suspended in the liquid.


Excellent explanation.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> What if you are using USA produced and certified materials.
> 
> For instance
> You take USA produced or certified sublimation T Shirt. Mill it to 100 um powder.
> You take USA produced and certified food grade adhesive in powder.
> You take USA produced cosmetic and pharmaceutical certified anti static powder used for babies.
> You take USA produced or certified deodorant in powder
> 
> Is than this powder good enough, safe and certified?
> 
> Or you buy a kit with USA made DTG ink + USA made pre treatment liquid for garamount + USA made transfer parer. And made a transfer to T shirt
> 
> What is a difference?
> 
> Is this just typical bogeyman issue?
> *As I said somewhere before: when someones interest are affected than the craws or hawks are flying around scarecrow*.


Let's be clear. I have no other interest in this except the truth.

I do not sell _any_ imprinting supplies or systems.

I am only an end user of such products.


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> You are completely missing the point. Read the spec, I posted it.
> 
> I cannot begin to address your questions, they are irrational. So I'll state it again in simple terms.
> 
> Did you have your process tested and did it pass for hazardous substances and flammability?


No necessarily 

as I said you before because this process anyway would not be available on your market since DTG inkjet manufacturers interest are so dominant that is would be a waste of time and money.

But if you develop a similar process for dark garamount that needs DTG inks than we will be listening a different story.

The world is very similar does not mater where do you come from.

Right or Wrong ?


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> No necessarily
> 
> as I said you before because this process anyway would not be available on your market since DTG inkjet manufacturers interest are so dominant that is would be a waste of time and money.
> 
> But if you develop a similar process for dark garamount that needs DTG inks than we will be listening a different story.
> 
> The world is very similar does not mater where do you come from.
> 
> Right or Wrong ?


That is not true. DTG manufacturers here are not that dominant that we don't have alternate methods. I use alternate methods aside from DTG so I know first hand your statement is not true.

In fact most imprinters are not DTG users.


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> That is not true. DTG manufacturers here are not that dominant that we don't have alternate methods. I use alternate methods aside from DTG so I know first hand your statement is not true.
> 
> In fact most imprinters are not DTG users.


Is this alternate method certified on above issues?


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Is this alternate method certified on above issues?


Absolutely


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> Absolutely


Can you give us some link with this certificate for review. Please


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Is this alternate method certified on above issues?



http://www.neenah.com/technical/heattransfer/pdf/Neenah%20Green.pdf


PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION
All of our Heat Transfer Papers are CPSIA certified to meet the lead and phthalate requirements.

Our products are made without the use of formaldehyde, poly-vinyl chloride, bisphenyl A, organotins and perfluoroctane sulfonic acids (PFO’s). Contact us for specific information regarding these and other chemicals of interest. Neenah Paper’s Director of Product Safety
and Environment is educated on the most current and pending legislative and government requirements. These services are available to you and your customers to investigate and answer questions.
For more information on the company's sustainability initiatives, visit the Neenah Green web site for more information, Neenah Green Eco-Friendly Paper Products & Resources | Neenah Paper


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Can you give us some link with this certificate for review. Please


Now let's see your's


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> [media]http://www.neenah.com/technical/heattransfer/pdf/Neenah%20Green.pdf[/media]
> 
> 
> PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION
> All of our Heat Transfer Papers are CPSIA certified to meet the lead and phthalate requirements.
> 
> Our products are made without the use of formaldehyde, poly-vinyl chloride, bisphenyl A, organotins and perfluoroctane sulfonic acids (PFO’s). Contact us for specific information regarding these and other chemicals of interest. Neenah Paper’s Director of Product Safety
> and Environment is educated on the most current and pending legislative and government requirements. These services are available to you and your customers to investigate and answer questions.
> For more information on the company's sustainability initiatives, visit the Neenah Green web site for more information, Neenah Green Eco-Friendly Paper Products & Resources | Neenah Paper


Sorry but I do see here an great marketing jungle for ordinary consumers. That is just developed for the same reasons. 

Nothing more than 

Transfer paper we are using is a throw a way product. It is not integrated in garamount polymer transfer paper. Or part of it that is integrated is manufactured by Akzonobel and is absolutely passive used mainly in cosmetics. 
So for your paper you would need to have MSDS and CAS No for particular polymer in use. Than we can look after its healthy issues with this particular polymer. And compare it to some other product.
If you are serious about this issue 

But I am afraid these data is confidential and not publicly available.

So this is as I said standard bogyman principle.

Same it goes at your pigment inks. If we want to hair splinting: Do you have that certificate for it as well.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Sorry but I do see here an great marketing jungle for ordinary consumers. That is just developed for the same reasons.
> 
> Nothing more than
> 
> Transfer paper we are using is a throw a way product. It is not integrated in garamount polymer transfer paper. Or part of it that is integrated is manufactured by Aznobel and is absolutely passive used mainly in cosmetics.
> So for your paper you would need to have MSDS and CAS No for particular polymer in use. Than we can look after its healthy issues with this particular polymer. And compare it to some other product.
> If you are serious about this issue
> 
> But I am afraid these data is confidential and not publicly available.
> 
> So this is as I said standard bogyman principle.
> 
> Same it goes at your pigment inks. If we want to hair splinting: Do you have that certificate for it as well.


Aging you dodge questions then throw things back to me.

READ THE SPEC AND LEARN !!!! Our inks are exempt.

https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/1500.91


(d) The following materials do not exceed the lead content limits undersection 101(a) of the CPSIA provided that these materials have neither been treated or adulterated with the addition of materials that could result in the addition of lead into the product or material:

(1) Precious gemstones: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald.
(2) Semiprecious gemstones and other minerals, provided that the mineral or material is not based on lead or lead compounds and is not associated in nature with any mineral based on lead or lead compounds (excluding any mineral that is based on lead or lead compounds including, but not limited to, the following: aragonite, bayldonite, boleite, cerussite, crocoite, galena, linarite, mimetite, phosgenite, vanadinite, and wulfenite).
(3) Natural or cultured pearls.
(4) Wood.
(5) Paper and similar materials made from wood or other cellulosic fiber, including, but not limited to, paperboard, linerboard and medium, and coatings on such paper which become part of the substrate.
*(6) CMYK process printing inks (excluding spot colors, other inks that are not used in CMYK process, inks that do not become part of the substrate under16 CFR part 1303, and inks used in after-treatment applications, including screen prints, transfers, decals, or other prints).*
(7) Textiles (excluding after-treatment applications, including screen prints, transfers, decals, or other prints) consisting of:
(i) Natural fibers (dyed or undyed) including, but not limited to, cotton, kapok, flax, linen, jute, ramie, hemp, kenaf, bamboo, coir, sisal, silk, wool (sheep), alpaca, llama, goat (mohair, cashmere), rabbit (angora), camel, horse, yak, vicuna, qiviut, guanaco;
(ii) Manufactured fibers (dyed or undyed) including, but not limited to, rayon, azlon, lyocell, acetate, triacetate, rubber, polyester, olefin, nylon, acrylic, modacrylic, aramid, spandex.
(8) Other plant-derived and animal-derived materials including, but notlimited to, animal glue, bee's wax, seeds, nut shells, flowers, bone, sea shell, coral, amber, feathers, fur, leather.


CPSIA: Implications for Decorators | Printwear

Specialty ink systems

Certain specialty textile ink systems *may effectively act like dyes*, such as those that are absorbed into the fabric and bond with the fabric substrate, effectively acting like a dye (i.e. discharge and sublimation inks). *CPSC staff treats such textile ink systems as a “dye-like ink.”*

In such a case, the garment would likely be treated as a dyed textile and *would not be subject to any testing* for lead in paint or for total lead content. (See 16 CFR §1500.91.) Again, each case may vary, depending on the type of ink system used and the individual characteristics of the print and substrate.


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> Aging you dodge questions then throw things back to me.
> 
> READ THE SPEC AND LEARN !!!! Our inks are exempt.
> 
> https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/1500.91
> 
> 
> (d) The following materials do not exceed the lead content limits undersection 101(a) of the CPSIA provided that these materials have neither been treated or adulterated with the addition of materials that could result in the addition of lead into the product or material:
> 
> (1) Precious gemstones: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald.
> (2) Semiprecious gemstones and other minerals, provided that the mineral or material is not based on lead or lead compounds and is not associated in nature with any mineral based on lead or lead compounds (excluding any mineral that is based on lead or lead compounds including, but not limited to, the following: aragonite, bayldonite, boleite, cerussite, crocoite, galena, linarite, mimetite, phosgenite, vanadinite, and wulfenite).
> (3) Natural or cultured pearls.
> (4) Wood.
> (5) Paper and similar materials made from wood or other cellulosic fiber, including, but not limited to, paperboard, linerboard and medium, and coatings on such paper which become part of the substrate.
> *(6) CMYK process printing inks (excluding spot colors, other inks that are not used in CMYK process, inks that do not become part of the substrate under16 CFR part 1303, and inks used in after-treatment applications, including screen prints, transfers, decals, or other prints).*
> (7) Textiles (excluding after-treatment applications, including screen prints, transfers, decals, or other prints) consisting of:
> (i) Natural fibers (dyed or undyed) including, but not limited to, cotton, kapok, flax, linen, jute, ramie, hemp, kenaf, bamboo, coir, sisal, silk, wool (sheep), alpaca, llama, goat (mohair, cashmere), rabbit (angora), camel, horse, yak, vicuna, qiviut, guanaco;
> (ii) Manufactured fibers (dyed or undyed) including, but not limited to, rayon, azlon, lyocell, acetate, triacetate, rubber, polyester, olefin, nylon, acrylic, modacrylic, aramid, spandex.
> (8) Other plant-derived and animal-derived materials including, but notlimited to, animal glue, bee's wax, seeds, nut shells, flowers, bone, sea shell, coral, amber, feathers, fur, leather.
> 
> 
> CPSIA: Implications for Decorators | Printwear
> 
> Specialty ink systems
> 
> Certain specialty textile ink systems *may effectively act like dyes*, such as those that are absorbed into the fabric and bond with the fabric substrate, effectively acting like a dye (i.e. discharge and sublimation inks). *CPSC staff treats such textile ink systems as a “dye-like ink.”*
> 
> In such a case, the garment would likely be treated as a dyed textile and *would not be subject to any testing* for lead in paint or for total lead content. (See 16 CFR §1500.91.) Again, each case may vary, depending on the type of ink system used and the individual characteristics of the print and substrate.


Great

So I do have one more question

Are Dupont s DTG inks lead free and certified or not

Just simple answer after all this jungle please.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Great
> 
> So I do have one more question
> 
> Are Dupont s DTG inks lead free and certified or not
> 
> Just simple answer after all this jungle please.


I don't know and I don't care. If I used them (or DTG) then I would care, or if they were _self-promoting_ their product here I would ask. I would refer you to them to answer that question. I would presume they are or meet the exemption I posted above.

_But this has nothing to do with YOUR lack of a cert for the product you are promoting here._


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## adriatic

mgparrish said:


> I don't know and I don't care. If I used them (or DTG) then I would care, or if they were _self-promoting_ their product here I would ask. I would refer you to them to answer that question. I would presume they are or meet the exemption I posted above.
> 
> _But this has nothing to do with YOUR lack of a cert for the product you are promoting here._


Sorry I am not able to test transfer paper you are promoting here. But if you can send me just one sample for testing, we can made an fair test with pigment polymer ink on these three papers.

I think that would be interesting un biased comparison

We have Chromablast transfer paper + Your polymer and Hybrid Print Transfer paper. All printed on the same printer in TWO PASS with the same pigment ink. Even we can compare same thing done on Canon and Epson engine

Than we can made comparison with DTG Epson ink and HP Latex ink transferred on garaount

What do you think?

Are you interested ?

And we can publish our finding on this forum.


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## mgparrish

adriatic said:


> Sorry I am not able to test transfer paper you are promoting here. But if you can send me just one sample for testing, we can made an fair test with pigment polymer ink on these three papers.
> 
> I think that would be interesting un biased comparison
> 
> We have Chromablast transfer paper + Your polymer and Hybrid Print Transfer paper. All printed on the same printer in TWO PASS with the same pigment ink. Even we can compare same thing done on Canon and Epson engine
> 
> Than we can made comparison with DTG Epson ink and HP Latex ink transferred on garaount
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> Are you interested ?
> 
> And we can publish our finding on this forum.


I'm not promoting anything.

I'm stating what I use:

1. Gives the same or better result. I see surface flaws on some of your photos, I don't have those.

2. Has no hand after washing

3. Is simple to apply, your process clearly isn't. Therefore it is not as economical. Time = money

4. Is CPSIA compliant

Number 3 and 4 are deal breakers to me if you can't have those 2.

Sublimating 100% poly (or near 100%) tshirts is really a great process. 

For t-shirts with substantial cotton content _sublimation_ makes no sense when there is a non sublimation process available that gives nearly as good results. 

Coating, prepping, or otherwise treating non-polyester t-shirts to accept sublimation dyes is really a _fools errand_. It only makes sense if there was no other way to decorate non poly material, but those other ways do exist.

Many transfer papers can sublimate, so if one must do this then "prepping" for sublimation with a regular CPSIA compliant ink jet transfer paper is possible. Having said that this only makes sense if one wishes to keep one printer only and keep sublimation ink in it.

Jumping thru all these hoops to prepare a t-shirt you can't make money that way.


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## GordonM

In addition to CPSIA concerns, Neenah (to name just one) has several patents related to technology involving the release of meltable coating layers, which sounds suspiciously like this "powder" being talked about. Any similar product sold in the US would certainly come under the infringement microscope, and may not be available for long. Hard to build a business that way.

For Adriatic: if an end product fall under the scope of that law, any major brand name you can think of, selling in the US, will have certified their goods for CPSIA compliancy. But you misunderstand the implications. It is up to the *decorator* to ensure compliance in their own end product. This is most easily done by seeking out those raw material products that are already certified. 

Many of us sell decorated t-shirts that are obviously intended to be worn by children -- a size Child-Small is a giveaway to that! The juvenile market is a very large one, and to be useful in the US marketplace, products need to be certified. 

Granted, there are some shirt decorators that ignore the laws, aren't aware, or or don't care. But that doesn't erase the importance of following the regulations. For one thing, doing so allows us to grow our sales into markets where the commercial buyers will insist on reviewing all the paperwork. No certifications, no sale.

Transfer products can certainly be sold without certification. But then we need to be mindful if we use these for garments intended for children. With so many CPSIA-certified transfer products out there, why go with one that isn't?


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## inkjetparts

Sublimation ink is for polyester (synthetic fibers) and pigment ink is for cotton (natural fibers).


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## chinasubpaper

as far as i know, there's no pigment sublimation ink, only dye sublimation ink, i think you are talking about the dye sublimation ink and pigment ink ?


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## sindhu g n

Dye ink:
In Dye based ink Dye dissolves completely in water.saturation is good.Because of this, dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers. But the dye will re-dissolve and the ink will flow across the paper if drops of water hit the paper. For normal document printing photo paper, pvc card etc, dye ink is much bette.

pigment ink:

In pigment ink tiny pigment colored particles are responsible for coloring. pigment inks are more stable. IT offers more subtle color shading.it is good to use pigment inks because it is waterproof. For T-shirt printing on dark based / light based cotton materials with transfer papers,this method is good.


----------



## mgparrish

sindhu g n said:


> Dye ink:
> In Dye based ink Dye dissolves completely in water.saturation is good.Because of this, dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers. But the dye will re-dissolve and the ink will flow across the paper if drops of water hit the paper. For normal document printing photo paper, pvc card etc, dye ink is much bette.
> 
> pigment ink:
> 
> In pigment ink tiny pigment colored particles are responsible for coloring. pigment inks are more stable. IT offers more subtle color shading.it is good to use pigment inks because it is waterproof. For T-shirt printing on dark based / light based cotton materials with transfer papers,this method is good.


Very good and concise explanation!


----------



## DovePrint

GordonM said:


> In addition to CPSIA concerns, Neenah (to name just one) has several patents related to technology involving the release of meltable coating layers, which sounds suspiciously like this "powder" being talked about. Any similar product sold in the US would certainly come under the infringement microscope, and may not be available for long. Hard to build a business that way.
> 
> For Adriatic: if an end product fall under the scope of that law, any major brand name you can think of, selling in the US, will have certified their goods for CPSIA compliancy. But you misunderstand the implications. It is up to the *decorator* to ensure compliance in their own end product. This is most easily done by seeking out those raw material products that are already certified.
> 
> Many of us sell decorated t-shirts that are obviously intended to be worn by children -- a size Child-Small is a giveaway to that! The juvenile market is a very large one, and to be useful in the US marketplace, products need to be certified.
> 
> Granted, there are some shirt decorators that ignore the laws, aren't aware, or or don't care. But that doesn't erase the importance of following the regulations. For one thing, doing so allows us to grow our sales into markets where the commercial buyers will insist on reviewing all the paperwork. No certifications, no sale.
> 
> Transfer products can certainly be sold without certification. But then we need to be mindful if we use these for garments intended for children. With so many CPSIA-certified transfer products out there, why go with one that isn't?



Gordon,

I'm newly learning about CPSIA and hunting for a Small Batch Mfr solution that will readily allow me to CPC on my products. 

The priorities for me are to print & transfer full color, cotton/cotton-poly blend fabrics, light fabrics, and very small batches even down to "ones and twos" if needed. I'd love the solution to handle dark fabrics and other materials as "stretch" goals but meeting the priorities comes first.

I previously chose OKI white toner laser with Forever transfer and would have preferred to keep using it ... but by all appearances I seem to have days-old feedback from OKI that they're currently not testing or at least not certifying their textile-printing toner products. 

You mentioned "so many CPSIA-certified transfer products" in your post ... and I am currently actively searching to find a solution; preferably low capital investment system for Small Batch work to begin.

Any chance you could name some of them? If you'd be willing to, that would probably help me a great deal to avoid tons of wasted time checking into dead-ends.


----------



## sinGN

Hi,

Tiny particles of colored material is responsible for the color in pigment-ink. Pigment inks are comprised of tiny, encapsulated particles that sit on top of the paper, instead of being absorbed into a paper is fibers, which is what happens with dyes. printing on dark based / light based cotton materials with transfer papers, it is good to use pigment inks because it is waterproof.




The dye is responsible for the color in dye inks.dye-based inks are less stable than pigment ink.dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers.it is more economic compared to pigment ink.


----------



## mgparrish

sinGN said:


> Hi,
> 
> Tiny particles of colored material is responsible for the color in pigment-ink. Pigment inks are comprised of tiny, encapsulated particles that sit on top of the paper, instead of being absorbed into a paper is fibers, which is what happens with dyes. printing on dark based / light based cotton materials with transfer papers, it is good to use pigment inks because it is waterproof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dye is responsible for the color in dye inks.dye-based inks are less stable than pigment ink.dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers.it is more economic compared to pigment ink.


Your comment is accurate, however, we were discussing "dye sublimation" (disperse dye) ink and not the conventional "dye" inks common in many inkjets as you have described.

Dye sublimation inks also contain tiny solid particles much like pigment inks do.


----------



## sinGN

Hi,

Dye based ink has dye in the solution and The dye "particle" is made up of one molecule while the pigment particle is made up of numerous molecules bonded together by extremely stable chemical bonds, creating a significantly larger particle.surface area and volume of pigment aprticle is less and more resistance to the chemical attack.Dyes also have poor water and humidity fastness due to their water soluble nature. When printing on canvas with dye inks use of a top coat, like Bulldog Ultra, is recommended for water proofing.


----------

