# I hate you Pr-1000!!!



## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

I'm about to throw this thing out my window! the hat jig doesn't have enough clearance to make hats. i'm about to cut the plastic off.. . why in da hell would you sell a machine and not test it if it can make hats as listed on your advertising?!? where's my dremel saw.. . .


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## Knehmer (May 6, 2007)

I'm just finishing up 200 hats on mine. Try moving your design further towards the crown of the hat.


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

too late ^.^ i cut it. swiper is still in the way but i can do full designs on cap snapbacks now


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## Riph (Jan 11, 2011)

I'm curious, what part did you modify?

I have done thousands of caps on my PR-1000, but I will also say that it sometimes has limitations. Different kinds of caps each have their idiosyncrasies.

The machine has an auto threader, and accommodating it behind the needles means that the back of the needle case is angled more than you would see on a machine without a threader. Thus it can be hard to do certain caps, and it also limits the ability to get really close to the cap brim with your design. 

I would gladly give up the threader for more clearance behind the needle case!

For flat brim caps, one trick is to not use the brim holder. It was designed to hold curved brims that come off the cap at a downward angle. For a flat brim cap, just hoop it normally but don't put the brim in the brim holder. Close the brim holder (with nothing in it) and use a piece of tape to keep it closed. If it comes open while you are sewing, it will interfere and possibly jam the machine. When sewing, the cap brim will probably rub against the back of the needle case. and might even deform a little as the design gets down to the bottom. You can tolerate a bit of deformation, but it really depends on the design. Also, you can put a piece of tape across the cap brim to protect it if you need to. (Photo shows this method of hooping).

Back to your modification - did you carve away the plastic housing behind the needles?

If you could post some more descriptive info about your modification, I'd be very interested. I do a lot of caps, and I am always looking for improvements.


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

LOL! yes i did it. modified my pr-1000 to the pr-1200  

[media]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Rick_Jugo/fa821c67.jpg[/media]

still looks good from the front though without that plastic guard.

[media]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Rick_Jugo/a63457f6.jpg[/media]

the order i had was snapbacks and the mockup was this.

[media]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Rick_Jugo/69df002b.jpg[/media]

i really got tired of the bill hitting the plastic but the end result was pretty good ^^ thank you pr-1200!!! 

[media]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Rick_Jugo/214afc7e.jpg[/media]


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

ya ya. .. i know . .the "A" is off but not the machines fault


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## Riph (Jan 11, 2011)

Wow. 

Thanks for posting those pics. You have bigger cojones than i do!


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## A1WHITES (Nov 19, 2011)

Yes he does have big ones. If I had done that to our Enterprize I would be pushing up Daisies right now


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## Posylane (Mar 3, 2011)

You know you are a real business owner when you think nothing of taking a dremel to your $10k machine


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## ElizzaPG (Aug 26, 2014)

I was wondering if you could post photos? I just bought a pr-1000e and its really frustrating trying to do snapbacks. Im thinking of removing the plastic guard on the back as well.

I'd appreciate it.


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

ElizzaPG said:


> I was wondering if you could post photos? I just bought a pr-1000e and its really frustrating trying to do snapbacks. Im thinking of removing the plastic guard on the back as well.
> 
> I'd appreciate it.













one of the best thing I did after purchasing this machine. just make sure you dremel back panel abit where there's spaces. goodluck^^


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