# Screenprinting Registration: tips/suggestions please?



## phillie5o3 (Dec 17, 2008)

okay, so i'm planning to do a three color screenprint for my t-shirt, but i'm worried about getting everything all aligned correctly and registered perfectly.

i read around the forums that a tip to help register your screen is to place your negative on the platen, and match up your registration marks (from all 3 screens) to it.


i have a negatives right now, but i used the registration marks from adobe photoshop, and i'm a little worried that i won't be able to see them through the screen to align it accurately since they're so thin and small.

any tips or suggestions on any registration tips?

thanks.


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## pukingdeserthobo (Jun 3, 2008)

make them bigger


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## phillie5o3 (Dec 17, 2008)

pukingdeserthobo said:


> make them bigger


thanks.. 

but any other tips for registration?


it's going to be my first time doing a multi-colored tee, so i don't want to have a lot of mistakes.


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## pukingdeserthobo (Jun 3, 2008)

its good to have them place in the middle. u can use a + sign that's pretty much it


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

Put the negative on the platen and register all the screens from it, but ignore the reg marks, just reg based on the design.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

phillie5o3 said:


> i used the registration marks from adobe photoshop, and i'm a little worried that i won't be able to see them through the screen to align it


Which ones are those again? If they're the small circles with all the lines going to a central point, those are fantastic for lining up accurately. You need to be careful at wash out to make sure you get them to expose correctly, but the small diagonal lines make it really easy to register *exactly* and not just in the ball park.


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## torodesigns (Jun 24, 2007)

Like MidWaste mentioned put down your design (the one with the most art in the sep)on the platen and line up your first color (which should be your lightest color). Once that color is lined up then remove the the artwork from the platen and stick a shirt on there make sure it is tacked down with adhesive. Then print the first color and flash it. Then line up your second color to the print, then the third with a flash between each. then you should have a pretty good registered print. The reg marks are really good to have but not totally necessary. They will on one hand help set up the job much more quicker.


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## n.signia (Nov 21, 2007)

use plus (+) signs to register on your films, use a 60 pt font on the plus signs.

tape your most inclusive film on the platen and then and register all the screens to it, at 60 pt font the mark will be very easy to see.

this way you can register your screens perfectly with out having to ink your screens first. this will save you alot of time.


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

midwaste said:


> Put the negative on the platen and register all the screens from it, but ignore the reg marks, just reg based on the design.


I agree. I've always lined up the negative to the screens and it hasn't failed me yet!


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## DanC922 (Jan 30, 2009)

I'm not quite understanding how you do this. How do you line up the screen with the negative on the platen accurately without using ink?


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## MeyersPrintShack (Jan 28, 2009)

You tape the negative to the platen. Then before you put ink on the screen, you lay the screen on top of the negative and line it up.Once it is lined up, tighten the screen.Then go to the next screen and repeat the process.Be certain to do a test print before printing your shirt.
Make certain that you are looking over the screen and not looking at an angle or it will never line up. hope that helps.


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

DanC922 said:


> I'm not quite understanding how you do this. How do you line up the screen with the negative on the platen accurately without using ink?


Tape all of your positives together as they would appear printed.

Tape them on the platen where you want the design to be. 

Place the first screen and align it by looking through the open areas of the stencil. You may need to move your positives to get them in the ballpark of your press registration capabilities.

Rinse and Repeat.


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

midwaste said:


> Tape all of your positives together as they would appear printed.


It probably would be easier to just have a positive/negative with your entire design on it (without separations). May save you the hassle of taping everything together and reduce the risk of something not lining up correctly because of a bad taping job.


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## n.signia (Nov 21, 2007)

just use the one film that is most emcompasing of the design and register all the screens to the reg marks.


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## Billyboy (Apr 25, 2006)

Solmu said:


> Which ones are those again? If they're the small circles with all the lines going to a central point, those are fantastic for lining up accurately. You need to be careful at wash out to make sure you get them to expose correctly, but the small diagonal lines make it really easy to register *exactly* and not just in the ball park.


Are those standard reg points for photoshop, if not do you put them in yourself? I'd like to be able to use them. Cheers!


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Billyboy said:


> Are those standard reg points for photoshop, if not do you put them in yourself?


I think they're standard Adobe - I definitely don't put them in myself. It's possible they're native to the printer, but I don't think so (pretty sure I've seen them on other people's work).

They're under the output menu.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

I just double checked Photoshop and Illustrator.

They have both the standard crosshairs (which do work pretty well) and the optical illusion style circle I mentioned. You'll find them (along with a bunch of other printer's crop marks, etc.) under output in the print menu.

I've got the same results from different printers, so I'm going to assume they're not printer native.

Thinner registration marks are harder to wash out, but they're also easier to line up.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

Phillie, don't ignore the registration marks. You'll register your screens much faster and more accurately with the marks. Personally I prefer my registration marks in an *L* shape, two top and bottom centered on the design, the third mark on the bottom right corner.


tape your key film to the platen, usually this is the black but not always.
clamp your screens loosely and beginning with the first color lower each screen onto the platen.
align the registrations marks
tighten, recheck, readjust, recheck, etc., tightening the clamps will often nudge the screen a tiny bit, this is where microregistration comes in handy.
raise the screen and move to the next.
after registering all screens move back to the first screen and check registration again, moving through all the screens. Keep doing this until all the screens are holding registration.
remove the film and print a test image. remember to tape off the registration marks before printing shirts.


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## EastBayScreen (Mar 23, 2007)

I never print straight from Photoshop. Always import into Illustrator with spot channels. Much easier placement of registration marks, and layout on film sheet/roll than in photoshop. I prefer reggie marks across entire top and bottom of design, quarter inch circles with a crosshair. That way, if you're off on one axis by a bit, you can tell from the whole line. Matter of fact, two straight lines on top and side of artwork would serve as well. Always use the marks and not the artwork, it will fool you sometimes.

Set and print first or last color. (underbase or outline/key color) Tape over entire design with clear packing tape. Line up second color. Print. Off a bit? Wipe the ink off the tape and try again. Repeat.


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## ekim (Oct 29, 2008)

Any tips if you were to try doing this one a one color set up?
Has anyone tried registering each screen and marking where they clamped it?
Planning on buying a silk screening kit, probably starting off with a one color press, and wanted to try laying down two colors on a print.


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

ekim said:


> Any tips if you were to try doing this one a one color set up?
> Has anyone tried registering each screen and marking where they clamped it?
> Planning on buying a silk screening kit, probably starting off with a one color press, and wanted to try laying down two colors on a print.


there are a set of videos on youtube by a guy called youtees that shows a lot of what you need to know about registering your screen and he also has a website ( Home Page ) where he sells a very affordable setup for screen printing in a very limited space on a limited budget. His youtube videos show you many ways to get good results with minimum cash outlay. Good luvk.
Terry


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## tshirtgirl214 (Aug 4, 2009)

phillie5o3 said:


> thanks..
> 
> but any other tips for registration?
> 
> ...


 
I use a pre registration board to line up my screens and it works great. You just create a board for whatever size screen you have and then register from there. I designed my board in corel draw. I could send you the layout but you must have a large printer to print it.If you want it just let me know


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## brainmap (Mar 15, 2010)

n.signia said:


> use plus (+) signs to register on your films, use a 60 pt font on the plus signs.
> 
> tape your most inclusive film on the platen and then and register all the screens to it, at 60 pt font the mark will be very easy to see.
> 
> this way you can register your screens perfectly with out having to ink your screens first. this will save you alot of time.



very useful, thanks


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## Scramfam (Sep 20, 2009)

Dudes. This is a HUGE help. I've been trial and error-ing it on my first two multi-color jobs. I've been trying to register by running my first color, flashing it, then trying to line up my second. Using the positive is genius and takes the anxiety out of the three-color job I'm getting the courage up for right now. Thanks.


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## JimGilbert (Jul 9, 2010)

The way I have come to do it is:

1) Set up one screen to be placed correctly on the shirt (centered and squared). The one with the most design is best. Print that pattern onto a scrap shirt (not a pelon).
2) Tape over that print with clear packing tape. Drying is not necessary.
3) Align second screen. I don't use registration marks. Be sure to look from directly above the screen. Tighten screen. Use micro's to fine-tune if you have them, or loosen just enough to tap with a small hammer and fine-tune.
4) Print this color onto the tape. Check the alignment and wipe the ink off of the tape.
5) Adjust the alignment and print again. Repeat 3) and 4) until you have it right.
6) Repeat 3) and 4) for all additional colors.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

JimGilbert said:


> The way I have come to do it is:


Why would you go through all this effort when you could simply use the positive.


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## JimGilbert (Jul 9, 2010)

wormil said:


> Why would you go through all this effort when you could simply use the positive.


Being new to screenprinting I will admit that I don't know a lot, but your comment comes across as rude. How about explaining how it is better to use the positive? I don't see how it could be easier than what I do, which is very easy for me.... but am more than willing to learn.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

JimGilbert said:


> How about explaining how it is better to use the positive?


Scroll up, I already explained it.


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## SnapGraphics (Dec 21, 2010)

I purchased the pre-registration template from Ryonet. It is very easy to use. You simply place the film upside down on the template line it up place tape on the corners sticky side up under the edges of the film and place the screen on top of the template. 

Pre Registration Template Transparency or Board


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## JimGilbert (Jul 9, 2010)

wormil said:


> Scroll up, I already explained it.


First, I apologize for saying your comment was rude. It was a bad day and I was very frustrated at the time. Sorry.

After re-reading your post about how you do it, I really don't see much difference between your way and mine and think that your way is more involved than mine. But as they say "to each their own".


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

JimGilbert said:


> ...your way is more involved than mine. But as they say "to each their own".


Try it, it isn't.


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## JimGilbert (Jul 9, 2010)

What I do is to align the first screen with the permanent marks on the platen, then using the taped-over test print of that screen I align the other screen(s). First I align the 2nd screen to the taped-over print then put some ink on the screen and print over the tape. I can then wipe off the tape, micro-tune and print again as needed. Since it is rare to have the 2nd etc screens aligned perfectly right away I find that the taped-over method works great. Much better than doing several test prints for me.

I really don't see it being any easier to tape the film down and align to that first. I re-read your earlier post but maybe I am missing something?


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Ok sorry to revive an old thread, but I figured its better than starting a whole new one when there is so much good information here. 

I understand now how you get the negatives onto your screens to burn them. What I am wondering is after you have burned them using any of these different methods mentioned above, how do you get them re-aligned on the press for printing? Do you draw pencil lines where the screens are clamped to the press and then reclamp the screens using those lines or is there some other way that I am missing. Sorry if I am not being clear. I just got a multi-color press and have yet to actually attempt a multi-color print.


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## jeannekay (Mar 19, 2012)

I typically draw a middle line on my platen and get all the screens lined up to that. Then my first trial run I register the screens after I do each color. So I'll do the first color and flash dry it, then bring my next screen down and line it up exactly where it needs to be (I can see the first print through the screen.) my press has a joystick to move the screens around so it may be different for those that don't have that.


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. Ok, I've got the middle line drawn down my platen, but in order to line up the screens to that middle line do you draw a line down the middle of your screens too? Or are you just eyeballing that part?


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

InnerLoop said:


> Thanks for the reply. Ok, I've got the middle line drawn down my platen, but in order to line up the screens to that middle line do you draw a line down the middle of your screens too? Or are you just eyeballing that part?


Use the registration marks burned on the screen.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using T-Shirt Forums


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Ok so are you placing a registration mark on the designs that lines up with the center line drawn on the platen?


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

InnerLoop said:


> Ok so are you placing a registration mark on the designs that lines up with the center line drawn on the platen?


Yes. Here is an exaggerated sample.


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Great, Thank you very much for that!


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## poker (May 27, 2009)

Learn about trapping and use it when applicable.


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## InnerLoop (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks, I've been reading up and watching videos about that and other techniques, trying to learn


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

JimGilbert said:


> What I do is to align the first screen with the permanent marks on the platen, then using the taped-over test print of that screen I align the other screen(s). First I align the 2nd screen to the taped-over print then put some ink on the screen and print over the tape. I can then wipe off the tape, micro-tune and print again as needed. Since it is rare to have the 2nd etc screens aligned perfectly right away I find that the taped-over method works great. Much better than doing several test prints for me.
> 
> I really don't see it being any easier to tape the film down and align to that first. I re-read your earlier post but maybe I am missing something?


My way is exactly like your way except no wasted shirt, no printing just for alignment, no cleaning between screens. Just register to the film and you're done. Do one test print to confirm. I used to work with a guy who registered screens in a way similar to yours and it took much longer. The reason I had to check and recheck was because I was printing on an old Riley Hopkins that was prone to move out of registration when you tightened the clamps; once good though it stayed good. If you have a method that works for you then that's great but I see no reason to toss a shirt just for registration.


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## Krulikon (Mar 18, 2016)

And what when I have registered screens on first platen and it isn't working on the rest?


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

The other platens are out of alignment with the first.


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