# My 2nd newb posting...Transfers and Ink



## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

I was going to get into creating my own transfers using an inkjet printer. What is pigment ink and how is it different from anything else. I wanted to get the bulk system for the Epson printer but I am not sure what type of ink to get.

Also, I randomly know a person that has done T-shirts. He tells me to not even bother with inkjet transfers as they aren't worth my time at all.

What does the quality of the shirt with an inkjet transfer look like? I don't want it to suck.

As you can see, I am totally new. I am not looking to make a whole lot of money off it, but doing it as a hobby that I could possibly make money off of later on.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Liquidslap.

Inkjet transfers are the cheapest to get into, but the quality has improved in the very very recent time b/c of Jetprosofstretch paper. It stretches with the shirt, so cracking is virtually a thing of the past. The color retention is great, especially, I find, on 50/50 blends. It has a soft feel that blends away after a wash or two, so the plasicky feel of yesterday is gone. That is for light shirts.

For darks, there's still Ironall Dark. Same thing, stretchy, great color retention, but has a heavier hand/feel.

Some feel JPSS is the first professional inkjet paper ready for commercial use. I always say, test it and decide if it's something you want to put your name on.

I put mine on it, but I did my tests on a few different tees and choose the one I thought made a great product.

Pigment ink is water resistant ink. It will not wash out like dye ink that is in most inkjets. 

When it comes to filling your bulk system, there are a few great inks out there. There are existing threads discussing the various inks and their virtues. People have their favorites. Just make sure the printer you get can handle a bulk system. I made that mistake getting the cx8400. I loved the SD card slot and scanner, but didn't realize at first (newbie mistake) that it won't take a bulk system. It went back and home came a c88+, which I actually got refurb'd at Epson for $40 ship'd to me.

I hope this helps. Best regards.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

That was extremely helpful. I certainly appreciate your time. Thanks alot


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

You're welcome.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Very nice and complete explanation, Kelly!


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

ok where do I get this Jetprosofstretch paper? I just did a Google search to find out where to purchase and I came up with nothing but this message board.

2nd question, anyone here use Bestblanks.com for their papers or bulk ink?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Much appreciated compliment, Chani.

LS, JP is available at Coastal Business supply and New Milford Paper. They are both preferred vendors here on the forum. You can find a link to each through here. Check for their discounts under "view offers". 

Coastal's list price is lower, but discounts and shipping specials and sales coupons mean I check the price of both when I am ready to order. New Milford Paper carries the ironall dark. So if going for both, the single shipping charge may make the diff.

Either way, those are the two suppliers. I believe that are it at this time.

I had just read a thread the other day whereas someone bought a c88+ for $29 at a Staples. They are clearing out due to discontinued, replaced by the c120. It was marked $49 but rung $29. Great news if you are looking for one. If you get the c88 or c120, remember to go to the color settings and pull yellow way back to -10 or -20. This may not make sense now, but remember it, they are notorious for very heavy yellow in the prints until you pull the yellow back. I also kick magenta and cyan up 5. Added that for kicks. Well, good luck to ya. Let us know how you make out sometime. Best regards.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Nevermind my question about where to find the paper. I didn't realize that Jetprosofstretch is not technically supposed to be ran all together like that.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Oh, I don't use bestblanks b/c I use JPSS and Ironall dark.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Liquidslap said:


> Nevermind my question about where to find the paper. I didn't realize that Jetprosofstretch is not technically supposed to be ran all together like that.


 
What?? After all that typing?? J/K.

But now you still know where to get it. Don't get sucker in by similar names either. One fella thought JetDark was JPSS for darks. There's no dark paper yet, but for lights: Coastal and New Milford.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> What?? After all that typing?? J/K.
> 
> But now you still know where to get it. Don't get sucker in by similar names either. One fella thought JetDark was JPSS for darks. There's no dark paper yet, but for lights: Coastal and New Milford.


I'm sorry, you must have been typing while I was typing my admission of ignorance towards the lingo.

Thanks for the info on that printer. I am going to head to staples tomorrow to see if they have any c88+'s left.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LOL, I didn't mean anything, I was joking.

I am also thinking Best Buy, Circuit City, any of them that carry it might be looking to dump them. I have one, but it's great, maybe for later on if this one goes. I did see the cx8400 on sale once recently at $59.00 Best buy. I want that one back, plus the c88. If you find one, will you update the thread? Thanks. Take care. The puppy on your shirt is cute. As you can see, I have a black labby on mine.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> LOL, I didn't mean anything, I was joking.
> 
> I am also thinking Best Buy, Circuit City, any of them that carry it might be looking to dump them. I have one, but it's great, maybe for later on if this one goes. I did see the cx8400 on sale once recently at $59.00 Best buy. I want that one back, plus the c88. If you find one, will you update the thread? Thanks. Take care. The puppy on your shirt is cute. As you can see, I have a black labby on mine.


Ok if I get the Epson, would you recommend a bulk ink printing system like one over at Bestblanks.com (or something similar since you don't really use Best Blanks)?


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## Heavenllfather (Feb 22, 2008)

Hello this is Tim and I would like to say that I use inkjet paper alot and to me I don't see any problem with it. It all depends on the quanity of paper that you use. So if you like the inkjet use it just do some reach search on the different type of paper out there! I founded a inkjet paper that I really like and people that have seen how it looks on a shirt loves it. I wish you all the blessing in your business and may the Good Lord Bless You.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Tim, welcome to the forum. God bless you, too and thanks for that.


Liquidslap, I don't have one yet, I haven't hurdled that cost factor. I can't advise other than to say I've seen different inks and systems preferred, and without first hand experience and knowledge to compare, I'd say start where I will. Search the threads for that system. When you start reading, the info will come out of nowhere as folks are great about sharing their experiences. If someone likes it, you'll see either everyone else does, too, or folks will say what they like and why.

I hope you find a great bulk system because I do know I've read how some are a hassle. All the best to ya.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

jpss is the way to go for light colored shirts! i am planning on getting my bulk system soon  i too plan on using jpss for light colored shirts and the iron all dark for darks. i have tested some of the other papers before i found this forum and the others just didn't really work out for me. transfer paper in general is a good way to start out, i made some shirts for a mayoral candidate here in town and he loved them .. not to mention he was elected too  good luck in your new venture!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I agree, Rick. JPSS and ID. I have read a post where someone posted what they save in ink cost with the bulk system and it is riduculous how much cheaper bulk is to own, once you pay the price of admission, which is actually looking small compared to a few cartridges. I also know someone who went refill carts, b/c its cheaper to start than bulk. 

Rick, do you know what system you might go with?


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> I agree, Rick. JPSS and ID. I have read a post where someone posted what they save in ink cost with the bulk system and it is riduculous how much cheaper bulk is to own, once you pay the price of admission, which is actually looking small compared to a few cartridges. I also know someone who went refill carts, b/c its cheaper to start than bulk.
> 
> Rick, do you know what system you might go with?


Yeah the price tag to buy the initial system is like 200 bucks but you get so much ink for that price. It has to be 10 times or more ink than a standard cartridge. The refills don't cost near as much. I am just wondering about how long such inks will last though...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lou posted his number. 2000? I'd have to double check, but it's up there. The ink lasts a long time. I think I've seen 24 months on some. Yeah, great stuff. I don't really think $200 is that much, but I think when I was pricing them, it was $350 for everything. But prices change and from being on the forum, I'd find out from here where to go for the best system. I'm not very familiar with all the specs and numbers but will be once I take the plunge, but I haven't seen anything bad about them. The only bad thing was diving in without the volume to justify the expense. Love this place, obviously. Too many posts too soon. Oh well....


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

I have been looking around kelly but haven't really had the time to "look" at them if you know what I mean is there one you might suggest? Also what are your thoughts on the heat transfer inks offered by ink supply?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I'm with you guys. I'd have to venture out there along with you. I haven't started the look but I make mental notes when I read the threads. I've seen names like Everlast and Magic Mix, but honestly, I'd probably hunt down Lou's posts and start my research from there out.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

I feel the same way. Lou for me is like the jedi master . I always knew I wanted to do t shirts but never really knew how to do t shirts until I stumbled across one of his videos. I'll do some research on inks and let you know what I find.... although I have heard that the heat transfer inks do not discolor when heat is applied to them at all


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I have heard about discoloring when folks use the durabrite, but I don't have any problem at all. 

As far as the bulk inks, I've read about problems from clogging, blobbing ink on paper, banding. Having to keep levels at a certain high or else, air bubbles. It seems like finding the right system just takes research to find which one to roll the dice on. Seemed printers make a difference as well. I did go with the c88+ with bulk system plans down the road. I followed Lou's recommendation there, but also saw alot of folks follow him to and report back as happy campers.

Hopefully we'll be one's, too. What kind of printer are you running, Rick?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Liquidslap said:


> Thanks for the info on that printer. I am going to head to staples tomorrow to see if they have any c88+'s left.


Hi Liquidslap-

Just wondering if you were able to find a c88? If you don't find one, what printer are you going to be running, do you know yet? Best regards.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

I had a kodak 5100 all in one, but I have purchased a c88+ and was aiming for the bulk system to compliment it.... I am a lou follower also  can you tell lol


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## flattop (Nov 7, 2007)

I bought the 1280 with the bulk system from alpha supply about a year ago i don't like it. its so unpredictable now i use my cx700 and my 1280 & all that magic ink just sit there


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

flattop said:


> I bought the 1280 with the bulk system from alpha supply about a year ago i don't like it. its so unpredictable now i use my cx700 and my 1280 & all that magic ink just sit there


This is the combo I keep reading about as the pits 1280+mm. sorry to hear.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Liquidslap-
> 
> Just wondering if you were able to find a c88? If you don't find one, what printer are you going to be running, do you know yet? Best regards.


I haven't had a chance to get out there yet. I am hoping to get out there tonight to see what I can get. Hopefully someone will have the c88+


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Leatherneck said:


> I have been looking around kelly but haven't really had the time to "look" at them if you know what I mean is there one you might suggest? Also what are your thoughts on the heat transfer inks offered by ink supply?


Leatherneck, just wanted to give you my opinion on the inksupply.com heat transfer ink... AWESOME!!!!!!! For details, please see my thread, "Durabrite vs. Inksupply.com heat transfer ink -- Durabrite, you're FIRED!" For pictures and details, see my tests with inksupply.com heat transfer ink, inkjetcarts.us refillable cartridges and Jet Pro SofStretch, which are posted in David's thread about Transfer Paper Testing. You'll see that I had ABSOLUTELY NO COLOR SHIFTING WHATSOEVER! With Durabrite ink, gray (which is a composite color) areas of my design printed gray, but when pressed, turned green! This happened on NUMEROUS occasions! I just couldn't justify paying the big price for Durabrite, and then having to tell my customers, "I know it LOOKS green, but once you wash it, it SHOULD turn back to gray..." Sorry, that just didn't fly with me! I have to be HAPPY with the product I'm handing over to my customers...

I have washed my daughter's sweatshirt (done with inksupply.com heat transfer ink and JPSS) probably 6 times or so now, and it's still holding up beautifully! Oh, one thing to note, is I found the black heat transfer ink to be MUCH DARKER than Durabrite. It's a rich, true black, and I just couldn't be happier!

Another thing to note, is that I was told that inkjetcarts.us is now carrying a new line of ink, which is supposedly from the same manufacturer as inksupply.com, but is 10-40% cheaper in price. Now I have have to admit that I have not purchased nor tried this ink, so I can't endorse it, or testify that it is true. However, I was told this by "someone in-the-know"...

By the way, I wanted to say that CIS' are great, and lower your printing price to only pennies a page. I, personally, did not take that route, not because of the price of the CIS, but because I do not have the volume necessary for such a unit. It's important that you print with it EVERYDAY, or you will have clogged heads, and a variety of printing problems. Since I only print once a week at time, that definitely is not for me. From what I understand that is NOT true with refillable cartridges, which is why I went with them. By the way, my refillable carts were only $16 -- yes, $16 -- and the ink was $80. Considering the Durabrite cartridges were $66 a set for I believe 5 ml of ink in each (that's ONE TEASPOON), and I paid $96 for the carts, and four 4 OUNCE bottles of ink (each cart holds around 13 ml), I figured out that I will save $400+ in the long run!! I did have the numbers figured out exactly, but have forgotten it now! 

Hope this helps!  
Melissa


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Leatherneck, just wanted to give you my opinion on the inksupply.com heat transfer ink... AWESOME!!!!!!! For details, please see my thread, "Durabrite vs. Inksupply.com heat transfer ink -- Durabrite, you're FIRED!" For pictures and details, see my tests with inksupply.com heat transfer ink, inkjetcarts.us refillable cartridges and Jet Pro SofStretch, which are posted in David's thread about Transfer Paper Testing. You'll see that I had ABSOLUTELY NO COLOR SHIFTING WHATSOEVER! With Durabrite ink, gray (which is a composite color) areas of my design printed gray, but when pressed, turned green! This happened on NUMEROUS occasions! I just couldn't justify paying the big price for Durabrite, and then having to tell my customers, "I know it LOOKS green, but once you wash it, it SHOULD turn back to gray..." Sorry, that just didn't fly with me! I have to be HAPPY with the product I'm handing over to my customers...
> 
> I have washed my daughter's sweatshirt (done with inksupply.com heat transfer ink and JPSS) probably 6 times or so now, and it's still holding up beautifully! Oh, one thing to note, is I found the black heat transfer ink to be MUCH DARKER than Durabrite. It's a rich, true black, and I just couldn't be happier!
> 
> ...


*Melissa, wow thank you for the great information. I did read your thread about the heat transfer inks and found it to be quite educational. I will be printing each day so figure the CIS will be a good investment for me to look into. I have read quite a few of your threads and posts and been very impressed with your knowledge in this field. I will give the heat transfer inks a go and see how they work for me . 400.00+ savings in the long run who can beat that? I thank you again for your great post  *


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Melissa, miss you around here lately. That's hopefully 2 good signs: no ink problems, and you are busy with jobs. (I hope!)

I am in between like you are, I think after reading your post, I may just go that route as well. PS: I know who I am calling to find out if she is home when I set mine up! 

Do you have any idea how long this supply will last, or too early to tell? How do you think refills will go? Easy? 

Hope you are having a good weekend!
Kelly


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

So I went out to look for the c88+. Unfortunately no one has it stocked anymore. You can still buy it from Circuit City's website, but it's 80 dollars plus shipping there.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Ohhhh, that's alot. Epson has them for the same, $79. But at least Epson has a first time website purchase discount of 10%. I found it by googling, but I still say, too high. I wonder if they'll have more refurb's anytime soon.

10 percent off, code fs4h. For now.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Leatherneck said:


> *Melissa, wow thank you for the great information. I did read your thread about the heat transfer inks and found it to be quite educational. I will be printing each day so figure the CIS will be a good investment for me to look into. I have read quite a few of your threads and posts and been very impressed with your knowledge in this field. I will give the heat transfer inks a go and see how they work for me . 400.00+ savings in the long run who can beat that? I thank you again for your great post  *


Oh, shucks... you're making me blush!  I'm sure you're have just as much success with the heat transfer ink as I did -- I couldn't be happier that I made the switch.

I was having a problem with photos too -- I took days cleaning up an image that was scanned, enlarged, and then scanned again (you can just imagine what a mess it was). I had to erase areas, draw them back in pixel by pixel, then desaturate the photo (color was way too intense). Well, when it was finally time to create the shirt, I was using Durabrite then, and after the transfer was printed, everyone looked yellow and orange -- even my Irish, pale friend in the photo was yellow, and her Colombian step-daughters were orange! I just couldn't understand it!! That, of course, was before I knew about making color adjustments in the advanced printer settings... Durabrite just screwed up everything I had worked on for days!! Every print I made (with or without color correction) had yellow remaining on the release paper. None of that is true with the heat transfer ink. I don't see ANY yellow whatsoever on the release paper, and there is absolutely no adjustments that have to be made. I did a photo collage t-shirt recently, and all the skin tones are exact to the image. I was like, "Wow... this is great! No yellowing on photos!!!!!"

From what I've heard, the problematic ink is the yellow. That's the one making all the color-shifting problems, and causing us to make color corrections. Just thought you might want to know this.

Anyway, if you'll be printing everyday, then a CIS is definitely the best idea for you. The prints will be WAY cheaper. I know Lou uses Coastal Business' CIS because they offer superb customer service and support, and that's important when running your business. CIS not working = no printing = no $$$ Not only does Coastal offer the 5% off for Forum members, but their customer service and support are awesome. They've done right by me, and I'll give them all the business I can because of it!

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Melissa, miss you around here lately. That's hopefully 2 good signs: no ink problems, and you are busy with jobs. (I hope!)
> 
> I am in between like you are, I think after reading your post, I may just go that route as well. PS: I know who I am calling to find out if she is home when I set mine up!
> 
> ...


Hi Kelly! Been real busy lately, so I can't stay on all day like I'd like to!  Between my birthday, my niece's birthday and hubby's birthday all in one week, plus cousin giving birth last weekend, best friend giving birth next weekend, PLUS super busy at work all week, I'm exhausted!  I do have a few jobs waiting, and unfortunately, unless I give up a few hours of the 5 hours I normally get a night, don't know when I'm gonna get them out! Yikes!

I don't know how long the ink supply will last. I guess that depends on the size on the prints you're doing, as well as whether if they're full prints, text, etc. I still had all colors but the black from the Durabrite I got with the printer maybe 4 months ago, so who knows, but I can tell you that 4 oz. of ink is a hell of a lot more than the 5 ml someone said is in a Durabrite cart. 5 ml is only a TEASPOON, when 4 oz. is a HALF CUP. In addition to the quantity you're getting for just a little more money (Durabrite cart is $14.99 vs. $20 for inksupply.com 4 oz bottle), its the QUALITY that's really got me floored.

I understand that you have not had the problem with the Durabrite ink, and I'm really glad you haven't -- I just worry that when you need to get another yellow cart, you will. I don't know if they changed the formulation or what, but it's hard to understand why so many of us have had problems, yet others haven't... Have you used gray in any of your designs? I'm curious if yours would turn green too. What about photos -- I know you're making the color adjustments -- so I assume you've had yellow people too at one time...

Any time you need help, you can certainly call me! It's only a small investment for the refillable carts and the ink, and it will yield A LOT. Only thing is, you'll have to talk to hubby, I was too chicken to do it myself, and the instructions were so cryptic, it was my job to try to figure them out while he actually did the filling! Just let me know when we can be of service to you...

Melissa


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks, Melissa, you're a good pal.  I'll be checking to make sure you are free, and printing your posts from when you did yours. It sounded downright frustrating.

I did have to pull back on the yellow, I also increased magenta, and depending on the image, cyan as well. Of course, my settings change entirely when I change paper. The same image on Ironall dark, Ironall, and JPSS have a different setting for each. That was fun. I just try to write down the rough formula. 

I haven't had colors shift either. I do use the plain paper setting, and you said you found out that's true black, not a composite, so I stick with that one. I'm not having troubles, so I'm not changing a thing. I've read the troubles, I don't want them.  

Hope you have a good night. You have alot of celebrating to do. I hope there's even more good news on the horizon, very soon.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Awesome! thanks again Melissa .. sounds like the heat transfer inks are definately the way to go. Kelly is right it sounds like you have quite alot to be celebrating right now, that's a good thing  I'm headed over to the coastal business site to check out the CIS and hopefully will be placing an order for heat transfer inks very soon.. thanks again*


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Leatherneck said:


> *Awesome! thanks again Melissa .. sounds like the heat transfer inks are definately the way to go. Kelly is right it sounds like you have quite alot to be celebrating right now, that's a good thing  I'm headed over to the coastal business site to check out the CIS and hopefully will be placing an order for heat transfer inks very soon.. thanks again*


You're very welcome! I'm sure you'll be happy with it, once you get the CIS and the HT inks up and running! Then you'll be printing like crazy, just like me  

Melissa


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

angelic_endeavor said:


> You're very welcome! I'm sure you'll be happy with it, once you get the CIS and the HT inks up and running! Then you'll be printing like crazy, just like me
> 
> Melissa


 * Oh I will definately be the mad printer lol... then have to set aside one day to cut and trim and file then back to printing at the speed of sound lol... I can't wait to get the CIS and heat trans inks rockin and rollin.*


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Leatherneck said:


> *Oh I will definately be the mad printer lol... then have to set aside one day to cut and trim and file then back to printing at the speed of sound lol... I can't wait to get the CIS and heat trans inks rockin and rollin.*


Oh yeah! Like you said the only problem is the trimming! I have been considering purchasing a cutter myself now that Chani has been able to cut the JPSS with it -- only problem is that I have no experience, and no one to show me how to use it  I wish Chani lived closer to NY... Hoping to see one in action at the ISS Show in Atlantic City next weekend! I only hope that I can refrain myself from buying it right on the spot, especially since hubby hasn't found a new job yet!  

Melissa


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Oh yeah! Like you said the only problem is the trimming! I have been considering purchasing a cutter myself now that Chani has been able to cut the JPSS with it -- only problem is that I have no experience, and no one to show me how to use it  I wish Chani lived closer to NY... Hoping to see one in action at the ISS Show in Atlantic City next weekend! I only hope that I can refrain myself from buying it right on the spot, especially since hubby hasn't found a new job yet!
> 
> Melissa


*boy Melissa do i understand lol. It gets old sitting here feeling like i am cutting out paper dolls lol... i too have been thinking about a plotter but like you have noone near me to show me how to use it properly. i have absolutely no experience with them. yeah, i'll send you good mojo to restrain from buying one right on the spot  *


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thanks, Melissa, you're a good pal.


 Thanks, Kelly -- I think you're a good pal too!

Hey, did I hear that you are going to the ISS Show in Atlantic City? I got soooo excited when I saw that -- hubby and I will be there on Saturday only (only hotels available were dives) Is this your first show too?

I'll be needing to make a purchase of JPSS very soon -- do you think Coastal will be offering it at a discount for show attendees? They're having Lou do a demonstration, and he's bringing some shirts that were washed multiple times to show how well they hold up. I told him I'd bring a few if he'd like! PM me and let me know when you'll be there and where we could possibly meet up!  

I'm hoping hubby will have a job by the time we go to the show... I have my eye on a cutter (even though I've never even seen one before, let alone KNOW anyone who knows how to operate one!) and am hoping to see one in action before I jump into buying one.

Talk to you later!
Melissa


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## T shirt guy (Jan 8, 2008)

For real quality (and this is just cuz I am old school) Make a four color press, get some screens and ink and print your own for long runs. Short runs and one offs go the above route.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Melissa and Rick:

I'd never even seen a video of a plotter run before we got ours. Yes, it helped that Mark has been running them for about 12 years, but to be perfectly honest, it's VERY easy to pick up.  I was REALLY nervous at first, but after my first couple of cuts I felt like I was an expert at it. 

Then, very soon afterward, I was experimenting on my own, and I taught myself contour cutting (I hadn't even read the user manual by that time  ). Yes, I made a few mistakes, but who doesn't? (Don't answer that  )

There's a lot of support here on the T-Shirt Forums no matter what plotter you end up with (but of course I'm going to recommend a Graphtec  ), so you can't really go wrong as long as you buy a reputable machine. 

If you do purchase one, be sure to let me know what you got!


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Chani said:


> Melissa and Rick:
> 
> I'd never even seen a video of a plotter run before we got ours. Yes, it helped that Mark has been running them for about 12 years, but to be perfectly honest, it's VERY easy to pick up.  I was REALLY nervous at first, but after my first couple of cuts I felt like I was an expert at it.
> 
> ...


*Well chani, I do plan on checking them out as I am not edward scissorhands  .. The support of this forum is amazing and I'm sure I could find help here always  ... is there a certain graphtec you would suggest for a rookie?*


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Chani said:


> Melissa and Rick:
> 
> I'd never even seen a video of a plotter run before we got ours. Yes, it helped that Mark has been running them for about 12 years, but to be perfectly honest, it's VERY easy to pick up.  I was REALLY nervous at first, but after my first couple of cuts I felt like I was an expert at it.
> 
> ...


What's a plotter and how much does it cost?


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Nevermind my last question. I just found a bunch of videos on Youtube showing how to use one. Now I just have to see how much one of these puppies cost. Judging by the technology, looks to be about a grand.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

This reminds me! I'm supposed to call another member to help him set his up! I need to do that!!!  Sorry, Dodank! 

Of course I recommend a Graphtec, but to be honest, you'd be just as happy with a GX-24, but I still suggest getting a stand for it.

As for Graphtecs, if you think you might like to cut vinyl for signs any time in the future, get the CE5000-60 24" plotter. If you only plan on cutting apparel vinyl and contour cutting inkjet transfers, get the CE5000-40 CraftROBO Pro. 

Both of them have the ARMS (Automatic Registration Mark Sensor) for contour cutting.

Essentially they're the same machine, but one is slightly smaller than the other.

There's always the smaller CraftROBO CC200-20, but to be honest, that's more of a hobby machine, and if you can afford it, get the larger CR Pro.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

Chani said:


> This reminds me! I'm supposed to call another member to help him set his up! I need to do that!!!  Sorry, Dodank!
> 
> Of course I recommend a Graphtec, but to be honest, you'd be just as happy with a GX-24, but I still suggest getting a stand for it.
> 
> ...


*thanks chani, i'll head over to graphtec right quick and check it out  i appreciate your knowledge*


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

eBay Store - USCutter: 24 -25 Vinyl Cutters, PCUT Vinyl Cutters - Value, Vinyl Cutting Supplies I know every one tells you not to buy from EBAY but there is lot of people that have gotten there vinyl cutter from this company I just got one will have next week piad $400 with shipping


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

mrdavid said:


> eBay Store - USCutter: 24 -25 Vinyl Cutters, PCUT Vinyl Cutters - Value, Vinyl Cutting Supplies I know every one tells you not to buy from EBAY but there is lot of people that have gotten there vinyl cutter from this company I just got one will have next week piad $400 with shipping


Let us know how that works out for you.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I hope it works out for you, David! 

I forgot, you didn't get the Laserpoint, did you? Just remember that you won't be able to contour cut transfers with a plotter that doesn't have a registration mark sensor. 

But there's still so much that you can do with vinyl, flock, glitter, metallics, plastisol sheets...and it's fun! 

Okay, weeding isn't all that fun, but I LOVE watching our machine cut!


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Chani said:


> I hope it works out for you, David!
> 
> I forgot, you didn't get the Laserpoint, did you? Just remember that you won't be able to contour cut transfers with a plotter that doesn't have a registration mark sensor.
> 
> ...


Chani,

What are contour cut transfers? And what kind of cuts can you do with the plotter that Dave is looking at?


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

ok I dont like dark transfer paper that is out there I think it is all crap but that is me so now with vinyl cutter I can do what I need to on dark shirts I have lost $800 in the last month becouse I will not use dark transfer paper and yes I was told by other members to get the Pcutter now I can save and get better next time and I have spent lot of money today so I could set up one room for doing every thing I have room upstairs set up but printer is down stairs so now i can set upstairs and do it all and even talk to you guys here nice thing about laptop LOL


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

mrdavid said:


> ok I dont like dark transfer paper that is out there I think it is all crap but that is me so now with vinyl cutter I can do what I need to on dark shirts I have lost $800 in the last month becouse I will not use dark transfer paper and yes I was told by other members to get the Pcutter now I can save and get better next time and I have spent lot of money today so I could set up one room for doing every thing I have room upstairs set up but printer is down stairs so now i can set upstairs and do it all and even talk to you guys here nice thing about laptop LOL


 
No more 50 yard dash?? 

Good news!

Now you'll have to watch the sweets! You won't be getting as much exercise.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Kelly not me dont like to much sweets will I know I can make back the money in the next month or two then I will put I have to do over 1000 shirts the flee markets are going to be open soon and I have some friends that want shirts so they can sell I get about $7.00 per shirt so that not to bad and I am going to be moving more north here in MI getting out of the city like small towns not citys LOL


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

David, let us know how you like the cutter. I'd seen a few members posts about that brand, and I've been to their website too, checking them out. I'm very tempted to get a cutter for doing darks (have never purchased opaque paper because of everyone's dissatisfaction with them, even with the IronAll dark), and would also like to get into the glitter -- little girls LOVE glitter -- OK, even big girls like me love glitter too!  

I'm only hesitating because I'm not using software (at the moment) that can be used for the cutter, AND I have never even seen one in action, and no one to show my how to use it, so I have a feeling if I do buy it, it might be collecting dust... I'm hoping to get a little "education" at the ISS Show next week, though.

Having your input on this cutter, would certainly be a plus -- although I'm kind of inclined to go with Chani's recommendation the Craft Robo Pro, just because I think their warranty would probably be more solid.

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

As far as doing the "50 yard dash", I sometimes have to do the same, even though I have the new PC, L shaped desk, supplies, TSquareIt and the press all in my basement office. In my case, I have to do "the dash" when I need to make some type of formatting revision on my design at the last minute, because the new PC doesn't have the software I use to create my designs on it -- that's on the PC in the dining room  

I put the file on my jump drive, and take it to the basement, only to find that my background color is too light, that text is misaligned, etc., and I have to go running back up to the dining room to fix it, save it to the jump drive again, etc.!

I'm also getting my exercise -- although I must not be doing too much business, as shown in my derierre! LOL

Melissa


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani, just got a chance to read the posts on the cutter from yesterday. I know what you mean about being "nervous" when trying something new. When I first starting doing shirts, I'd get so nervous that between the heat of the press and my nerves, I'd be trembling and sweating bullets! I'm actually just starting to get confident enough that I'm relaxing about it -- stupid huh?  

I'm sure that if I watch enough YouTube videos, and with your support, I can figure this thing out. I just need to see it in action. Believe it or not, it's the MAIN reason why I am going to the ISS Show!

First I think I need to get that Corel Draw program... Can I just create my design in another program, saving it in a certain file extension (such as a jpg or a png), and then open it in Corel Draw, and use that for the cutter, or will I need to "convert" it somehow? Can the cutter use PhotoShop? Sorry, I just need to figure out what I need to get before the cutter...

Looks like hubby might be getting two job offers this week, and I'm already starting to plan my shopping! LOL

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Liquidslap said:


> Chani,
> 
> What are contour cut transfers? And what kind of cuts can you do with the plotter that Dave is looking at?


Hi Johnny, 

Contour Cutting transfers means taking an inkjet or laser transfer that's been printed on your printer with registration marks, loading it into your plotter, and trimming your transfers automatically, instead of by hand with scissors or a hobby knife. 

Otherwise the PCut should be able to do just about everything else that any other plotter can do, like vinyl, flock, glitter (  ), and palstisol sheets (screen printing ink in sheet form on a backer that you can cut with your plotter).

I'm not sure if it will do Tackle Twill, but most people aren't going to need that, anyway.


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Chani said:


> Hi Johnny,
> 
> Contour Cutting transfers means taking an inkjet or laser transfer that's been printed on your printer with registration marks, loading it into your plotter, and trimming your transfers automatically, instead of by hand with scissors or a hobby knife.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks alot for the explanation. I just love these forums. I have been reading for like 2 weeks now.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Chani, just got a chance to read the posts on the cutter from yesterday. I know what you mean about being "nervous" when trying something new. When I first starting doing shirts, I'd get so nervous that between the heat of the press and my nerves, I'd be trembling and sweating bullets! I'm actually just starting to get confident enough that I'm relaxing about it -- stupid huh?
> 
> I'm sure that if I watch enough YouTube videos, and with your support, I can figure this thing out. I just need to see it in action. Believe it or not, it's the MAIN reason why I am going to the ISS Show!
> 
> ...


Every bit about this business scared the **** out of me.  Not only the first time I ran a plotter, but also lining up designs on our heat press (I bought a TeeSquareIt right away, so I always had a good tool for lining vinyl up).

To be honest, I was afraid that I'd start a fire the first time I put a shirt on our press! 

What program are you designing in right now? If it's Photoshop, you will need another program like CorelDRAW or Illustrator (I personally suggest Corel, but I have both). You can then take your photoshop files directly into Corel (you don't need to save them as a bitmap), set up your contour paths, add your registration marks, and cut it. 

Or, you could even start designing in CorelDRAW, and you're one step closer! 

You can't cut directly from Photoshop, unfortunately. Plotters only read vector information, so you would need a program like Corel or Illy.

Okay, here's one thing I'll give Roland GX-24's from the start...you can import a raster file into their software, and it will automatically set up cut paths for you. With the graphtec you'd need to do it manually (or use the help of PowerTrace).

There. I said it. 

Have fun at the show! Get them to show you everything they can!  Hopefully there will be a Graphtec there for you to look at, but don't count on it. Graphtec concentrates on the sign business. But maybe one of their dealers will be there and you'll be able to see a CR Pro in action. 

Congratulations (hopefully!) on your husband's job offers!


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Liquidslap said:


> Hey thanks alot for the explanation. I just love these forums. I have been reading for like 2 weeks now.


No problem. 

That's what I'm here for! 

Well, and to soak up all the information I can.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

(inclined to go with Chani's recommendation the Craft Robo Pro,)

please remember that it is for crafts and I did look at them becouse I had to get all the other and needed to cut 24 inch I can do sign ,cars screen print,T-shirts and lot more and I have 1 year warranty and I did have one sold it before I moved back to MI I did not know that I could do T-shirts I used it for 3 years and sold it for what I paid for it


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

If all you're going to do is use it for t-shirts (no signs), the the CR Pro is a good, professional machine. Especially if you want to contour cut transfers.  The CR Pro is the same machine as the Graphtec CE5000-60, only a little smaller. 

The one that I don't suggest anyone buy generally, is the CraftROBO CC200-20. Now THAT is a hobby machine.

If you're not planning on cutting inkjet transfers, I'm sure the PCut, Copam, etc, are fine machine, especially for the price!

As a matter of fact, we originally planned on buying one the the cheaper plotters. I'm happy we went the way we did now that I know how to contour cut transfers, but if we didn't do that at all, then one of the lower priced machines is most likely just fine.

Actually, I'll be testing a Copam, GX-24, and our CE5000-60 side-by-side soon!


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## Liquidslap (Feb 12, 2008)

Chani said:


> If all you're going to do is use it for t-shirts (no signs), the the CR Pro is a good, professional machine. Especially if you want to contour cut transfers.  The CR Pro is the same machine as the Graphtec CE5000-60, only a little smaller.
> 
> The one that I don't suggest anyone buy generally, is the CraftROBO CC200-20. Now THAT is a hobby machine.
> 
> ...


If you could please, explain what you mean by "hobby machine". Does that mean it really isn't for high volume? Or does it just not do larger sized jobs..


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

I guess it can mean different thing to different people. When I'm talking about a hobby machine, I'm talking about its construction and not being for high-volume work. Some people may consider the CR Pro 15" plotter a hobby machine because it won't cut 24", and therefore isn't really good for signs.

The Graphtec CraftROBO CC200-20 8.5" cutter and the Roland Stika models are built using lesser quality parts, and just aren't up to the task of cutting all day every day.

The Graphtec CraftROBO Pro CE5000-40, the Graphtec CE5000-60, and the Roland GX-24 use Servo motors, which are more accurate, and more durable, generally, while the hobby machines use stepper motors.

Also, some of the hobby machines will only accept full-width media (tho there's a way around that). The cheap CraftROBO (not Pro) also has a very strange and frustrating blade system from what I've read.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure where to put the PCut and Copam plotters. Based off of user reviews here, I'd put them in the more professional category. And, David, I have absolutely nothing against them.  We even considered getting one ourselves.  You can't beat the price!!!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> Every bit about this business scared the **** out of me.  Not only the first time I ran a plotter, but also lining up designs on our heat press (I bought a TeeSquareIt right away, so I always had a good tool for lining vinyl up).
> 
> To be honest, I was afraid that I'd start a fire the first time I put a shirt on our press!
> 
> ...


Aaccckkk! Just wrote a LONG post back to you, and got "Page Cannot Be Displayed"!!!!!!!! I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS!!! When am I ever going to learn to copy my posts before hitting the Submit Reply button?!?!?!?

Anyway, in a nutshell, my post said: I actually use a combination of software to create my designs. They are primarily photo based, so I use Fireworks MX to "cut out" the backgrounds, and do the clean up work. I use PrintMaster to do the Text Art, and then layer then in PowerPoint, since that's what I use at work... I know I need to learn CorelDraw, but most of my work come spontaneously, and I know it will take time to learn that software.

Based upon your post, since most of my work is photo-based (therefore raster), perhaps I should be concentrating on the GX-24, since it will cut a raster based design easily. Then, I wouldn't have to learn CorelDraw so quickly, and would be able to start using it right away.

I intend to really pick the brains of ANY company showing the cutters. Since I've never seen one in action, I happy with that. Once I have a little more knowledge about them, I'm sure I'll be a little more descriminating about their features, etc. Right now, I just have to be a sponge and soak up all the information I can, so when I do make my purchase, it will be easier for me to learn this...

Can I use a raster image, and have PowerTrace figure out the cutting path for me? Is this easily done, or is it a pain in the ***? Is PowerTrace a software specific to the cutter, or is it a function of CorelDraw? I did see that CorelDraw had a function that it will take an raster image, then you trace it, and it converts it to a vector image... Is that a time-consuming and painful process, or is it relatively simple? I had seen one of your posts that said you routinely do this for customers that provide raster images, and the other Forum member was shocked that you would do so much...

Anyway, thanks for the advanced congrats on hubby's prospective job offers. He has a second interview this afternoon. I just hope that he winds up at a job that not only pays the bills, but some place that he's HAPPY working at. I've found from experience that it's the most important thing...

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

PowerTrace is a fuction of CorelDRAW.

What you can do with that is trance your bitmap, ungroup your traced objects, and weld them all together to create an outline for your plotter for follow. It's pretty simple. 

If you do go with CorelDRAW, it may take some getting used to, but it's a pretty user-friendly program.  Just be sure that you buy the right version. X4 won't work with any of the plotters out there yet. The plotter manufacturers haven't updated their drivers for X4 yet (as far as I know), but I'm sure they will soon.  X3 is available for about $150 on ebay right now for the full-functioning, retail box version and will do you just fine. 

Yes, the software that comes with the Roland will give you cutting paths for your bitmaps, but if you plan on doing any glitter or vinyl or flock, you will need a vector-based design program liek CorelDRAW or Illustrator. No bitmaps for vinyl. 

I didn't mean to scare you. Like I said, it's pretty easy, you just need to learn how to do it efficiently. 

Remember, less than a year ago I'd never even seen one of these machines run before. I was also struggling with Illustrator. Now with our Graphtec and CorelDRAW, I'm a cuttin' maniac!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> PowerTrace is a fuction of CorelDRAW. What you can do with that is trance your bitmap, ungroup your traced objects, and weld them all together to create an outline for your plotter for follow. It's pretty simple.


OK, that doesn't sound too bad. I know I will need vector images with vinyl (because it's not like you're printing a photo or anything raster based) and I eventually will need to vectorize my raster designs if I want to place a plastisol order, so I guess my first step is getting CorelDraw X3. Is there a significant different between the Professional Version and the Educational Version? I know the edu version is cheaper...

Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Yes and no. There are some educational versions that will not do macros (little scripts that make life easier), and some that will.

But the main diff is in it's license. You can not use the educational license for profit.

Just buy the commercial version for $150 on enay (be sure to get the full, boxed version, not OEM), and all will be good.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

angelic_endeavor said:


> OK, that doesn't sound too bad. I know I will need vector images with vinyl (because it's not like you're printing a photo or anything raster based) and I eventually will need to vectorize my raster designs if I want to place a plastisol order, so I guess my first step is getting CorelDraw X3. Is there a significant different between the Professional Version and the Educational Version? I know the edu version is cheaper...
> 
> Melissa


*wow melissa, congrats on hubby's job offers i just got a chance to read the posts i'm happy for you guys . i have seen the student versions of coreldraw x3 for cheaper as well and it seems someone told me they are limited in what they can do.... but if anyone knows any better i'd like to know as well  ..... looks like chani has already gotten the answer to my question... thanks chani, looks like the complete commercial version for me.*


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Melissa,

There is always inkscape.org to start messing with for free. I know learning takes some free time, but the tutorial is absolutely awesome, fast and easy. Once you get going with the basics there, you can download the free trial versions of Corel, since you won't be a complete noob, you can hopefully get some work done for free. Just a thought. I would go this route if I was to buy Corel. I am doing the learning in inkscape.

Some folks here actually just use inkscape, and function just fine, it depends only if you need more than inkscape can offer.

There is also vector magic. Vectormagic.com will take your bitmaps and covert them to vector for you. You only pay if you do a download. I went in there an uploaded a photo, and played around, it was super easy and very fun. Just read the tutorial and tips and tricks first, which takes all of five minutes. It was really cool. I didn't review it for use with vinyl, but David - MotoskinGraphic works in vinyl and he loves this program, and he says he has the other programs that are expensive and doesn't use them over vectormagic. Anyway, it's a very very cool program, and affordable as a per use basis for now, and is easy to use. I'm sending you the links where the folks rate it, you'll also see Charles in there. (If you sign up now, you get 4 free tokens to trade for downloads. After that, it's a pay per download. But for now, the first $50 you spend can be applied to a future desktop version they are going to put out. The online version will still stay available.) I'm deciding which way to take the business, since I do well where I am at in my market, I could leave it alone, but, I am too crazy in the head from all the fun, fun stuff I've read on this forum, and I also totally love glitter and metalics, for us, with the girls, they will go NUTZ, and so would I!!

Here's some threads on vector magic so you can see what the others are saying about it:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/graphics-design-help/t40258.html#post237012

and

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/graphics-design-help/t40599.html#post238778


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

There's only one problem with Vector Magic, or at least the free version that they used to offer...it creates little single-node (point) curves that would NEED to be cleared before you went to cut your graphic on a plotter. You can't see them unless you're in wireframe view, and sometimes only if you're zoomed in pretty far.

The problem is that these will be cut, so you'll have little tiny slices in your design.

Most of the time these wouldn't even be noticed, but they might look like little pinholes in your design on your shirt, and that could look a little unprofessional.

Otherwise I was very surprised and pleased with the results that I got with the file that I tried.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Chani said:


> There's only one problem with Vector Magic, or at least the free version that they used to offer...it creates little single-node (point) curves that would NEED to be cleared before you went to cut your graphic on a plotter. You can't see them unless you're in wireframe view, and sometimes only if you're zoomed in pretty far.
> 
> The problem is that these will be cut, so you'll have little tiny slices in your design.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Chani. I don't want to deal with this issue. No one over there mentioned any issues like this, maybe they are not using it for vinyl.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

For screenprinting and plastisol transfers it wouldn't matter in the slightest, but with vinyl it really does matter. They'd only be tiny little random slices, but they may make a difference.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Wow, good point -- thanks for the info! I'm a kind of "if you want something done right, you might as well do it yourself" type of person anyway, so I think I'd probably do it the CorelDraw way. You made it sound so simple! I hope it's really that easy...

Anyway, today is an exciting day -- waiting for hubby's "official" $$$ offer, and best friend went into labor this morning, when she was scheduled for a C on Saturday!

Happy day to everyone!
Melissa


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Wow! Double dose today!

I hope your hubby gets a great salary!

And congrats with your friend! I hope all goes well and mom and baby are healthy!


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

When you're creating contour cut curves for inkjet transfers for your plotter and all you have is a raster file, all you really need to do in CorelDRAW is vectorize the image using PowerTrace, reduce the trace to black and white within PowerTrace, remove the background color (and remove the background color from the entire image in your trace), and once it's been vectorized, all you need to do is select your newly vectorized pic (be sure not to select the original bitmap), ungroup all, and hit weld. If there are any interior cutouts it's up to you if you want to remove those or not. In that case, you'd break the curve apart, select the interior curves, delete them, and you're done. 

If you do want to leave a tiny little window around your image (useful for teeny tiny lines because a plotter will only be so accurate), you can select your new contour, use the Outline tool, Break the Contour Group apart, delete the original curve, and you're done. 

Just a few clicks once you're used to it.


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> I hope your hubby gets a great salary!


Me too! The more he makes, the less my money has to go toward bills -- so I can buy CorelDraw AND a new plotter  



> And congrats with your friend! I hope all goes well and mom and baby are healthy!


 Thanks - should be hearing something soon - at noon they were getting ready to do epidural...

M


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Chani said:


> remove the background color (and remove the background color from the entire image in your trace)


OK, do I need to make the background transparent, or does white=no background, since it's been converted to black and white? Making it transparent is no problem, since I do that all the time with Fireworks MX... If that's the case, then I will leave the raster image in .png format, instead of .jpg



> In that case, you'd break the curve apart, select the interior curves, delete them, and you're done.


Are these instructions to GET RID OF the interior curve cut-outs? What would be the advantage of NOT doing interior cut-outs? I'm assuming an example of "interior cut outs" would be the spaces out of text that are on the inside of the design, no?

[/quote]If you do want to leave a tiny little window around your image (useful for teeny tiny lines because a plotter will only be so accurate)... [/quote] Exactly how close to the design will the PowerTrace mark for cutting? I usually leave about 1/8" around design, but maybe it'll be OK to cut it closer than that? I understand what you mean about the exactability of the cutting...

Your instructions don't sound too complicated, and I am getting psyched about purchasing the CorelDraw! I promise I will try to figure it out myself before calling you and yelling, "Help! I can't figure this f***ing thing out!!" LOL 

M


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> Wow, good point -- thanks for the info! I'm a kind of "if you want something done right, you might as well do it yourself" type of person anyway, so I think I'd probably do it the CorelDraw way. You made it sound so simple! I hope it's really that easy...
> 
> Anyway, today is an exciting day -- waiting for hubby's "official" $$$ offer, and best friend went into labor this morning, when she was scheduled for a C on Saturday!
> 
> ...


 
Wow, waiting on TWO big deliveries. Hoping all are happy and healthy at the end of the day.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

angelic_endeavor said:


> OK, do I need to make the background transparent, or does white=no background, since it's been converted to black and white? Making it transparent is no problem, since I do that all the time with Fireworks MX... If that's the case, then I will leave the raster image in .png format, instead of .jpg


White is fine, but I'd remove whatever you want your actual transfer to be from the background if it's a photo.  Clear is okay, too.  You may need to play with it a little if you have gradients in your design. What I would do in your raster program is completely saturate your image or bring your contrast up all the way. But make sure the bounds of your image are the same, so you can just replace one with the others in CorelDRAW once you have it vectorized. 



angelic_endeavor said:


> Are these instructions to GET RID OF the interior curve cut-outs? What would be the advantage of NOT doing interior cut-outs? I'm assuming an example of "interior cut outs" would be the spaces out of text that are on the inside of the design, no?


Yes, sorry, that's to get rid of the interior cutouts.

The advantage on transfers for lights is that there is less weeding involved, and once your garment is washed with JPSS, you don't really notice the polymer in the centers of letters, etc. Less weeding = less time = more transfers = more money! 

For opaque transfers you would leave all of these centers in (I mean, you wouldn't remove the cut curves, and you WOULD weed those areas).



angelic_endeavor said:


> Exactly how close to the design will the PowerTrace mark for cutting? I usually leave about 1/8" around design, but maybe it'll be OK to cut it closer than that? I understand what you mean about the exactability of the cutting...


Your trace in PowerTrace will be almost exactly on the borders of your design. For most things this would be okay, but if you have thin lines, you'd want a little more, and then you'd use the outline tool. 



angelic_endeavor said:


> Your instructions don't sound too complicated, and I am getting psyched about purchasing the CorelDraw! I promise I will try to figure it out myself before calling you and yelling, "Help! I can't figure this f***ing thing out!!" LOL
> 
> M


It really isn't very difficult once you get the hang of it. You might struggle a little at first, since you don't have ANY experience with CorelDRAW. Do you have any experience with Illustrator or Inkscape? Names change, but for the most part concepts stay the same. 

I'm here if you ever need me!


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## angelic_endeavor (Sep 19, 2007)

Thanks, Chani -- you're the best! 

M


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

If you're buying just 50 sheets, this is a good deal. 

But...and I hate to say this, but if you're buying 100 sheets, it's still a better deal elsewhere.

But as Kelly pointed out earlier, if you're buying IronAll Dark at the same time you'll prolly save money going to New Milford. 

I'm a little upset with NMP, tho. They seem to have raised their regular prices on JPSS even more by a couple of dollars.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

You're right. 

Not trying to argue.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

To avoid duplicate posting - if you want to find Jet Pro or Ironall dark on sale follow this link:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t41299.html#post244245


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

that is ripe off I am not paying $50 for 50 sheets JPSS when I can get it cheaper


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

It is 29% off, that makes it $35. plus they carry Ironall dark, which makes it 29% off Ironall dark for those, like me, who order both.

For my typical order of 

JPSS 100 sheets
Ironall dark 50 sheet

I save $35 instead of buying from Coastal and NewMilford seperately.

You see? For some, this is a good deal indeed. Plus the rest of the store is also 29% off. I've ordered photo paper from them, too. And shipping is free over $150, so these prices will go even lower yet.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Ya you know how I feel about dark paper that is why I get JPSS at Coastal Business Supplies becouse I would never use Ironall dark I had samples and it did not look or feel very good BUT that is just me


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

mrdavid said:


> Ya you know how I feel about dark paper that is why I get JPSS at Coastal Business Supplies becouse I would never use Ironall dark I had samples and it did not look or feel very good BUT that is just me


 
Yeah, I forgot, but that info isn't to upset folks who don't get the true benefit, that info is for folks like me that can clean up with a good sale like this. 

They carry other stuff, I can't get into the site right now, but everything is 29% off. I don't like the everyday price of JPSS there, but when combined like this, the bigger package becomes a sweet deal. One shipping charge, and with a big enough order, no shipping charge. My usual is a few bucks from free, so I just pop something else in that I can use.

I am adding a new shirt to your test thread tomorrow.


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