# White Ink Not Smooth and Not covering Well



## PipCharlieDesign (Jun 3, 2017)

Hi Everyone- I'm new and discouraged! Help. When Printing white today, I'm getting thick mounds of white ink. It looks like its leaving a texture and is really thick. Is it the off contact? Even when I print flash print it seems not to be covering well in all areas. I have to hit it like 3 or 4 times to get an opaque coverage. I am using a high opacity white ink. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Angie


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## hotrod937 (Nov 15, 2013)

Screen printing is technically very difficult. Screen printing white ink seems to add 50 percent more difficulty. There are probably 100 little things. Tiny situations that if one is just a hair off it can mess up the printing process and fight you all the way. For what what stand out to me is good ink. I use ink from a large reputable company and understanding what ink you are using. Such as different solid contents and low bleed no bleed inks. What their cure temps and durations are and the like.

Next we will talk about screens. What ink is hard to work with because it has to be opaque on black or dark garmets. To do this they use more solids than other inks. This makes it think and hard to work with. So in order to make a good print you must start with a proper mesh screen. 110 to 155 is what I use and rarely 086 mesh. Next is when coating the screen. Use the thick side of your applicator. It should have a thin and a thick side. I coat the back side first and then coat the top side and let them dry (in a dark room of course) level and top side up so the emulsion settles to the bottom which will create a small trough for the ink to flood into. Some people do a 1 coat top 2 coat bottom but I never do. 

Now that you have your screen perfectly exposed and spayed out and understand your exact brand and type of ink and it's properties, we will talk about set up. Your screen must be very tight and with in spec. A tension gauge is used at the screen print supply house to stretch and make your screens. I use aluminum frame ones because they are only a few bucks more. 

Moving on. Setting your off contact is key here, I go high for white. Like 2 or 3 quarters stacked high or more. Because of this you must have a squeegee that has a very sharp edge and correct durometer hardness. I use yellow 80 duro. Also when putting your rubber in your handle you must make absolute certain that your installed rubber edge is flat. Place it on a flat piece of metal or glass and make sure it's not got light coming though. This will shadow your prints and let ink pass beyond your stencil. 

Next make sure your ink is stirred, agitated and aerated before use. This loosens it up and makes it print better sooner. I take out enough for a job and put it in a pint container and stir the crap out of it before I start the job while the oven is heating up.

Next is technique. I flood the screen then push the ink somewhat hard, even and fast across the design. This takes some muscle memory and practice. I usually do two passes then flash this hit once more around and cure. Hope this all helps. If you are having issues try and find the one little thing that is messing you up and learn from it right then because every mess up takes time and money.


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