# Have mixed information: need advice on printing transfers



## AzEtchWorks (Oct 4, 2009)

Hi All. 
I am a new equipment owner but not new to the industry. 
I recently purchased the Riley Hopkins 6/4 lowrider package. When comparing packages and info, I asked about hats. I was told that the best way to screen print hats is to print my own transfers and use a heat press that screen printing hats was somewhat difficult because of the seam in the middle of the hat... Made perfect sense to me... so they threw in a package of transfer paper for me. but no other information... as to the process, heat temp and transfer time or even if it was hot or cold peel... 
Not happy with the performance of the inks. I have been in touch with One Stroke Ink... my rep there tells me there is a special ink used for printing transfers and of course the use of the adhesion power... 
I call the company back that I got the paper from, I ask them and they tell me that NO it's the same ink that I have with my package.. just print it, use the powder, gel it and it's ready to go... (hot peel) In reading through this site I found a link to transfer printing instructions from International Coatings.. and in there it says that YES in fact that it is a different ink... Oddly enough when I peel off the labels of the inks that came with my equipment, they are in fact an International Coatings Ink... just doesn't tell me if it's the 500 series that is mentioned in the instructions from International Coatings... 
I don't know who to believe... I did a test run of some transfers yesterday... with very little luck. 
the transfer part was fine... but it's the printing part that was the problem.. I set the off contact basically to the platten as there isn't much thickness to the paper... I was using white ink I was able to print/flash/ print again and then use the power and then gel it... as it will be going on a dark garment... but the printing was all fussy and filled in just like it does when I am printing on shirts and the off contact is out of wack... I had just used this same screen on a run of shirts and didn't have this issue

Would anyone have any idea if I am using the wrong ink? should I put a test t-shirt on the platten and then adhere the transfer sheet to it to raise it up a bit? I used to have Pro World print my transfers prior to getting my own equipment so hot peels are not a new things for me. 
I apologize for the length of this, I just wanted to give all my info in hopes of someone pointing me in the right direction with this... 

Thanks in advance. 
Kenna


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## ole Jobe (Jun 16, 2009)

Ink: Some mfg. have special inks for transfers, some don't. I use mostly Wilflex, the same as I use for direct printing. Works fine. You just have to experiment to find something you like.
Time, temp, pressure: Since most plastisols cure at 320 F., your temperature needs to be set a little above. At 330 F. 10 seconds should allow sufficient time to cure. For 6 panel caps the pressure needs to be moderately heavy to force the ink into the seam.
No need to p/f/p on transfers. The edges will smear somewhat. One good coat of ink on a transfer will provide as good coverage as p/f/p direct print, especially if you do cold peel. Hot peel removes some of the ink with the paper. Most papers will work either way.
That's about all I know. You just have to practice a bit. God Bless.


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## AzEtchWorks (Oct 4, 2009)

Thanks for your input. I will just keep plugging away at this... at some point I will have to hit something right. I will maybe check into other inks as well. I really don't want to have to keep a stock pile of different type inks.. 
Thanks Again


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

What Jobe said. Both are true, you can use special inks or regular plastisol inks, with or without the powder. Transfers need some experimentation and then consistency.


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## tgoeltz (Aug 7, 2007)

I'm just starting to print transfers so I'm no expert, but....

1. p/f/p probably won't work. Lay down enough ink on one pass and then put them in the dryer. 80 mesh, although with a couple of inks I got by with 110. 

2. Watch your flooding. It doesn't take much ink to lay down a nice layer on paper. 

3. Watch your pressure. If you are using nicely tensioned frames it should not take much pressure. I'm using Newmans at 25n +. You mention that you are not using much off-contact, but if your tension is bad the mesh may not be releasing well. 

4. Make sure that you are not curing them in your dryer. Just dry to the touch.

5. Make sure that your paper is not shifting. Are you using a vacuum pallet?

6. I've only made soft-peel with no adhesive, but they go on well using 365-375 for 10-12 seconds.


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## AzEtchWorks (Oct 4, 2009)

Thank You so much for all the input. The flood and pressure makes sense and that could have been where the smudged areas came into play... Funny when I called tech support (more than once) not once did they mention a different mesh screen for this.... Been using 110... I will give the lower mesh a try today. 

Thanks Again


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