# License plate sublimation



## CustomScreen (May 3, 2007)

I ordered some blank aluminum license plates from *Onesource Coil Coaters* i've had a go at sublimating them but the image seems to look cracked, i am pressing them at 200c (400f) for about 40 seconds, i haven't tried yet but i think if i pre press them it might not happen as i've added bits on to one i had all ready pressed an image on to and the added part seems to be perfect, does anyone have and tips on pressing plates or know what my problems is and how to solve it.

thanks


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## TMPRO (Feb 28, 2007)

Hello,

Trying to picture what you mean by cracked. I can't think of anything that would make it looked cracked. However, 40 seconds seems way to short a time to me. I do most metals for at least 1 minute. 

I just looked up an ebay auction for that company and they suggest 65 seconds at 375 f. Because of the low temp they suggest it leads me to believe it might be a soft coating. In this case I would try what they suggest and maybe even up the time a little but at 375f not 400f.

If this does not help you might try to upload a picture of the problem area so we can see what it looks like.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

CustomScreen said:


> I ordered some blank aluminum license plates from *Onesource Coil Coaters*


I am assuming this company is in New Zealand - where you are located. I have never heard of them in the US. I am not really sure why your's came out cracked and I don't want to infer that this company has bad products. But, you need to be kinda careful where you get your sublimation blanks. If the polyester coating is not applied even and with enough, your sublimation will not come out correctly. Most of the time the prints will have some bad spots - not usually cracked. I would call Onesource and ask them with the idea time, temperature and pressure is for that product. I would also let them know that you are experiencing cracking. They might have just gotten a bad batch of product from their supplier and it is not their fault. Either way, I would start off with asking them for assistance. 

Best wishes.

Mark


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## CustomScreen (May 3, 2007)

Thanks for your help guys i will give it a try later, i can't find any suppliers of sublimation products in new zealand, oncsource is in florida Onesource Coil Coaters, LLC. Home Page TMPRO found some instructions for me i couldn't find any on the wesite, i will try a couple and post some photos of the results.

thanks


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

I don't like dye sub for any product that is exposed to sun. Dysub is not UV friendly and will fade too soon for me


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## CustomScreen (May 3, 2007)

Here in New Zealand we are only aloud to use official plates on the road (ones made by the goverment) the ones i make are for show cars, so they are only used indoors or for a show in place of the original plates.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Chris...this for for the frame for the plate...do you not have a frame for you lic. or are you like the UK with rather large plates?


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## CustomScreen (May 3, 2007)

CustomScreen said:


> Here in New Zealand we are only aloud to use official plates on the road (ones made by the goverment) the ones i make are for show cars, so they are only used indoors or for a show in place of the original plates.



The plates i have for sublimation are USA size since most are for US show cars, i haven't got any frames for them.


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## pking76 (Aug 11, 2007)

Hello all,

I am new to the world of sublimation. I tried to sublimate my first license plate and it didn't work. I am using an epson c88 printer w/ dura brite ink cartridges, true pix classic transfer paper, heat press on 400F for 40 sec. The tag comes out yellowish and the image is still on the paper. Am I not supposed to use the ink that comes with the printer? I do have the bottled ink for the bulk ink system. I appreciate the feedback...

Shun


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

Hi, PKING76,,, you can't sublimate with durabrite inks,, those are pigment inks not sublimation inks,,,, you need to get set up with sub inks ,,,,

R.


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## pking76 (Aug 11, 2007)

ok guys. questions. I have changed the cartridges in my epson c88 to the ink refill system. the computer keeps telling me that the printer doesnt recognize cartridges and use epson cartridges. I cant get the red light to go off. I have tried every thing from reinstalling the ink refill system and turning off the printer to reset chips--nothing works. Do you think the printer head is damaged?


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

you should have a fly out warning telling you that its not the correct carts,, you should be able to continue,,, have you pressed the trash can button on you c 88,, if you have more problems badalou here on the forum worked for epson he has the info for you I am sure..

R.


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## TooGoob (Jul 20, 2007)

charles95405 said:


> I don't like dye sub for any product that is exposed to sun. Dysub is not UV friendly and will fade too soon for me


This is not a problem if you use an overcoat spray like "Frog Juice". The inks are not fading actually but rather evaporating.

Sublimation inks react to a low temperature like 75 degrees and up. For instance, I could make a sublimation print, lay it on top of a substrate and wait a week at 75 degrees and a faint image has transfered. We use higher temps to get the job done faster. So sealing the finished product will minimize the evaporation process.

I have tested tiles using this spray and so far it has been in a field with direct sunlight for 1 year 3 months and no sign of fading. I did leave one spot on the tile with no coating and it looks like a red stain.


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## pking76 (Aug 11, 2007)

Can anyone suggest a company that has good pricing on sub inks? Sub cartridges, or 100-200 ml bottles of sub inks?


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

for sub ink...where are you located...in US you will have to buy from a sawgrass distributor...either sublijet or artianium or from TOG who is in a lawsuit with Sawgrass...all others have shut down. If you are out of US..be careful as there some really poor 'sublimation' inks that dont work. go with the ones that work...when you buy cheap...often you get cheap!


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## TooGoob (Jul 20, 2007)

pking76 said:


> Can anyone suggest a company that has good pricing on sub inks? Sub cartridges, or 100-200 ml bottles of sub inks?


...hmmmm, good pricing on sub inks? Is'nt that like saying "Military Intelegence"?  

ArTainium is a little cheaper but requires full color magament in your graphics program to use the ICC profile. Sublijet is a bit more expensive but allows any program to be used (slightly duller result).

Either is a good choice.


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## pking76 (Aug 11, 2007)

What is the ICC profile? I have seen this many times but am unsure what this means. 


Also, is the epson stylus D88 similar to Epson C88. I notice that printers and cartridges from the united Kingdom are labeled D88. What is the difference?


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I use Artanium with Photoshop, Corel X3 and Illustrator with outstanding results. As for the license plate cracking issue...are you removing the plastic protective film before sublimating? The aluminum plates I get from Conde have a protective film.


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## TMPRO (Feb 28, 2007)

pking76 said:


> What is the ICC profile? I have seen this many times but am unsure what this means.


ICC Stands for International Color Consortium. This is a profile that your graphic software uses to try and product the best color based on the graphic type, printer type and ink type. If you use an epson printer with epson inks the epson driver has it's own ICC driver built in and you do nothing. However Sublimation ink colors are very different from OEM inks and so they need a different ICC profile to let the printer and program know how to make the color come out right.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Muhahhahhahhahahh! rrc62(Ross)...

That protective film is indeed thin and nearly invisible... 
Sorry, it got a giggle out of me...

TooGoob(Roy)
I would hate to be washing my expensive Hanes Soft L'Ink sublimely sublimated brand new T-shirt and have forgotten to turn the hot hot hot on my washer knowing I keep my water heater at 110...


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

There is an inkjetcarts.us claiming 70% less cost on inks... that supposedly competes toe to toe with Epson inks, and the subimation inks are also represented as excellent, so why buy Artenium? or Sublijet? or even TOG... is that one of those traps?

Huhh! now I am asking you to bash... no no no no... just say if you would use it or not! Now if you have tried it and it 'sucked', say so!


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

ummm! I just had a thought...

I have not done any scientific testing to corrobarate this thinking, but the temperature outside never goes far if often beyond 98.2... umm now u know where I am going.

Would not a sublimated Tee be in horrible danger while worn? Yeah! no doubt there is surface temp, radiated temp, and reflective temp on metals(cars) and that would make a difference ...and the design being on the opposite of the shirt side that is in contact with the skin also creates a layer of insulation.

blah blah... just a thought? [98.2 - 75 = 23+- degrees!]

Moral: wear your favorite best cotton Tee, if visiting Death Valley.


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## Supporterstuff (Oct 25, 2007)

We press metal at 205c for 65 secs and we place the sublimated side face down so it sits on the sheet rather than face up like most other blanks. If it is face up we find we get a slight mottling effect but nothing serious.
It certainly does sound the only plausible reason for cracking is the plastic protective coating film being left on and until rcc62 mentioned it didn't even cross my mind. Most that print alu have probably made the same mistake once.


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## CustomScreen (May 3, 2007)

thanks for all the suggestions, there isn't any plastic coating on the plates i have, i fixed the problem by pre pressing the plates, seems to do the trick, i'm gona have a go at doing them upside down with out pre pressing, thanks again


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## skyweb54 (Aug 14, 2008)

how does one price license plates and other sublimated items? pricing items i can sublimate seems to be my nemisis these days.


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## JYA (Jun 2, 2008)

skyweb54 said:


> how does one price license plates and other sublimated items? pricing items i can sublimate seems to be my nemisis these days.


I'd start out by finding out my TRUE cost of the printed plate, which is the cost of the blank plate + shipping + transfer (ink/paper) + labor + overhead, etc.

Next, I'd search a bit to see what others are selling plates for, and between the two of these, you should have a start on where your pricing should be.

From there, don't leave money on the table. You need to come up with a selling price that also takes into consideration on what the market accepts. If your total cost is $4.00 for a printed plate and others in your area are charging $15-16, then why sell for $10? Consumers may view this as "why is his/hers so much cheaper?"

FYI, autoplates.com is at $15.75 each based on a 12 plate minimum. I don't sell these, so, I don't know the costs, but, looks like there is some nice money to be made in this item.


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