# Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up



## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

*Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up and bordnesting*

Hi all. Ok I am doing a 3 d puff A on 6 panel caps. Constant battle every time i do the puff. They are professionally digitized, The stitch out for flat front cap runs fine. Issues begin with the first 6 panel cap initially I have the walking stiches showing on the outside of my caps. THen for the second cap I get birdnesting in the middle of the design where the seam is. Then constant thread breaks. ALso broken needles. Have used sharps and ballpoints. Can any of you give me some tips on doing these hate to pass up the work. I have a toyota 830 expert and just had it serviced so that is not the problem. I am sure its OE (Operator error) I have Data Stitch Pro 2000 software. Thank you in advance. THe machine is adaquately oiled too../


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## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up and bordnesting*

1. What thickness of foam are you using?
2. Professionally digitized means very little, there is good and bad. A single edge underlay should be all you need, and it should be a density of about 2 .
3. For foam, it HAS to be center out since the density should be double of a normal letter and that will pull the fabric more.
4. Structured or unstructured? I'll tell you from experience that I hate unstructured. You have to have a thick stabilizer. I sometimes even use the cardboard insert as stabilizer 
5. You may have to loosen your tension. I've never had to, but I usually stick to 3-4mm foam.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

we use 80/12 sharp titanium coated for puff and slow down the sewing speed.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up and bordnesting*

Pictures of the result and a machine file ( for us to look at)would help. I've seen a lot of techniques that "Professionals" use, and they don't all work for me. You may want to adjust your tension and try a thicker needle as Binki suggested.


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up and bordnesting*

Thanks for all the help. i am using the 80/12 ball point and the sharp. Using 2 mm foam. I tried to tighten the tension and now i am shredding the thread at the needle eye. I also have no top thread under the cap. So tension is now too loose? I believe these are considered to be structured caps, they have the heavy layer inside. I have had issues with 2 separate puff letters on 6 panel caps. I am running very slow under 300 spm. I bought the designs from Central Mongrammiing. I will try to post pictures tomorrow.


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## sassystitches (Sep 16, 2010)

It has been my experience with puff that you need to loosen the tension slightly if anything. If you don't see top thread on the backside then you need to loosen your upper tensioners. When you said you adjusted the tension I am assuming you adjusted the upper thread tensioner and not the bobbin tensioner right?


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

sassystitches said:


> It has been my experience with puff that you need to loosen the tension slightly if anything. If you don't see top thread on the backside then you need to loosen your upper tensioners. When you said you adjusted the tension I am assuming you adjusted the upper thread tensioner and not the bobbin tensioner right?


yes you are correct i adjusted the top tension and left the bobbin as is


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## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is not lined up and bordnesting*

For 2mm foam , you shouldn't have to adjust tension at all. Do your standard I test pattern to get the tension correct and try that. Everyone has a preference, but I use 80/12 titanium ballpoint also(for almost everything). I usually sew caps at 1000 spm and seldom have a problem.


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## digitizewedo (Nov 2, 2010)

It sound like its not stitch from the center out, hats tend to PUSH in the direction there sewing, if the design doesnt compensate for this it will not sew out well, all designs for caps should be done from the center out, this is not true for flat surfaces. thats why it sew out ok flat.


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

that wass what I was wondering about also. I think I will have to open the file in my software for that but wont it ruin the design??


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## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

I'm not familiar with your program, but all editing software should allow you to move the order of lettering. I am assuming that each letter is separate of course. It does get a little harder if you have to break connecting lettering. Either way, it can be done, and will not affect the quality of the sewout. Again, it would help if you could post a picture of it so we could all get a better look. Those of us who do a lot of foam, have learned that it is tricky at times. One final thing to check that might throw it off is whether or not you are using adhesive to hold the foam down. I usually spray with temp adhesive and hold the foam down on the ends until it has it tacked down really well. Flagging of foam can cause the needle to deflect.


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

Additional issues now I get thread break errors when the thread is still in the needle.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

Thread break errors are caused by the machine NOT sensing the movement of the thread. Too much friction though the foam (not the right needle) or Too loose in the pretensioner that keeps the thread taught on the sensor(you may have loosend the top too much). The sensor on many machines is a small wheel or a tap bar. Follow the path and make sure you are calibrated. Do you have a file and a picture yet?


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff wont stitch correct*

trying to add pictures. Have a video I am trying to add too


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

HI Jim there is only one letter


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is giving me issues still*

I tried to use my software to make the file stitch from center out. However I cannot seem to figure out how to make the software allow me to change the design to stitch center out. I have data stitch datamaster plus software. here is the file. I have added the sti file. If any of you can tell me how to make the change I would be really thrilled...


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is giving me issues still*

Just sent you a PM. I cannot read a data stitch file. Need to see the machine file (original) that you are sending to the machine. Let me take a look an we'll see what you have.


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## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

*Re: Help my 3d puff on my caps is giving me issues still*

Was just answering as Z joined in. If you only have one letter, center out isn't important. What font and what size A is it? What we need to look at is the dst file you are using (dst is the industry standard). If you have another type of stitch file, we should be able to convert it to look at it. From looking at the first picture you posted, your tension still isn't correct. Make sure you have the 1/3 pattern on the back of an I to get it perfect. You can PM either Z or myself to help you through this.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

I cannot view the video.

For the most part the file seems semi sound..(density and end caps) though it’s not necessarily how I would do it. In looking at the picture where you can see the bobbin thread on the top, I can only guess that this is more a tension issue on the machine. When you sewed the outline first, how did that turn out? This may be a clue that it’s just that needle/color/thread path that needs adjusting.

I would start by re-setting the bobbin (drop test) then doing a FOX test to make sure that you have your “thirds”. Adjust the top knobs. If One needle is working better than another(try this file with the wrong colors), use that one as a guide. In fact if another needle is working better, I’d double check to make sure the eye and rotation of the needle in question is proper.

I don’t have time to run this tonight. The file is semi-literate , and the only real issue is the long underlay on the outline and the lack of bridging for the center piece of the “A”. I don’t think this would give you the issues that you are facing. Start at the top with your tensions and thread paths. If I have time later I’ll run and see what happens

ip


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

This is what I have found out through trial and error, and I am pretty new to embroidery. Check the original size of the digitized design. When I received my file, it was a little larger than what would fit on the hat, and I adjusted the size not knowing that I was not adjusting the thread count. This caused it to stitch out the same design using the same amount of stitches in a smaller area. What I did learn is that most software has a way to adjust the size of the design as well as adjusting the stitch count. Making sure that your tension is right on the bobbin and top thread is very important, but I found that it is no different than any other design that is stitched on any other type of material. Good Luck... Aloha


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## scrubber (Nov 6, 2007)

Thank you all very much. Multiple issues were going on. Thank you steve for redoing the design. My software has some errors in it. As for the 6 panel caps I fInally used sticky back foam and then taped a piece of solvy down and it ran much better. Though i did still break a few needles I am going to get some of the carbon needles in an earlier post.


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