# Repost: How do you print on Jerseys?



## fhulgzz (Dec 1, 2014)

Hello I'm sorry for my first post, I used our language there.

Here, I translated it to english.

What paint to use on Jersey (basketball uniform). Please recommend me a virgo brand cause I think it is better than tulco.

I have tried using virgo superwhite, now here comes the numbers. I cut out a paper as my stencil because I will only print a specific number once in every shirt. Then the result is lighter so I need to apply a 2nd coat. After 2nd coating the result is good.

Now the problem is I can't easily remove the paper because it sticks to the screen. I need to wash the screen with water to remove all the remaining paper which consume a lot of time and waste of water and also the paint. Then after a few prints I cannot use the screen anymore cause there are a lot of paints in it that cannot be remove and some parts of the papers.

What should I do about this when it comes to printing numbers?

What kind of virgo paint to use that will give a thicker print in just 1 coat only? (How about VNT Rubberized?) I haven't tried this paint cause it is expensive and I'm just starting.

Thanks in advance. Any reply will be much appreciated.

-f


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## fhulgzz (Dec 1, 2014)

up for this..


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## slacker27 (Oct 2, 2011)

sorry I am not familiar with that brand of ink. All the white inks I use I have to do 2 strokes. As far as thicker deposits, I would double coat my screen with emulsion. Thicker coat of emulsion = more ink.


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## fhulgzz (Dec 1, 2014)

slacker27 said:


> sorry I am not familiar with that brand of ink. All the white inks I use I have to do 2 strokes. As far as thicker deposits, I would double coat my screen with emulsion. Thicker coat of emulsion = more ink.


Finally I've got reply. Thanks mate.

Ah its a philippine brand of ink that is why you're not familiar with it.

How did you double coat your screen?
You mean, after the first coating dried up, you coat it again then let it dry and then the exposure process will follow?

I was thinking of this idea too but what was on my mind is thicker emulsion will wash out but I think I am wrong?


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## slacker27 (Oct 2, 2011)

I coat one side, flip it over coat the other. Then I flip it once more and do the same. Emulsion will take longer to dry as it will be twice as thick. If you leave it to dry for a day it should be good depending on your storage of them. Making sure your the part of your screen that touches the shirt is facing down.

You can also try the following:
You can also use lower mesh count for more ink deposit. Problem is detail of design might be affected if it has high detail and you may not have a lower mesh.
You can raise your off contact as well. But I find I just smudge my image to much ink
You can also hit then flash cure it with a heat gun or flash dryer and hit it again. <---this way will give your white a brighter white.<----My favorite method
White Ink is thicker so you might have to put a LITTLE more pressure when you stroke it than the other colors
Good luck! I've been helped a lot on this forum, so it feels good to be able to help other fellow printers


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## slacker27 (Oct 2, 2011)

Also at least for me. The first pass always sucks looks faded, I flash then second pass Im like WOW!


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## fhulgzz (Dec 1, 2014)

Oh I see, that is what I did too. Coat 1 side then flip it over, coat the other side.

So using paper as a stencil is not advisable right? You know what I did is used one screen only for numbering. I think that is a stupid idea. After printing the first number, I remove the paper then put another paper for another number.

I get it now, I really need to 2nd coat for better result and I need to use emulsion and 1 screen for each design not 1 screen for all designs. Oh man I really missed up.

Thanks for the help mate, I really appreciate it.

-f


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## slacker27 (Oct 2, 2011)

I've never tried paper stencil, from what I understand you can only use one paper stencil and then throw it away. Don't re use the same paper stencil. Wax paper works good if using your own stencil.


For me the way I do numbers is a pain in the butt! I bought 4 screens of 110 mesh count. Burned numbers on them having the 1 and 2 on separate screens (since you use those numbers in 10s and 20s). I never wash those out I keep them. To be honest it sucks and it takes a long time. So I charge a lot more for numbers so even though it sucks because I make good money I don't mind .

What press are you using? Line table?


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## slacker27 (Oct 2, 2011)

Heat Transfer Numbers, Letters & Designs | Stahls'

I've heard good things about these guys. They have stencils and transfers as well.

I'm sure you can get some good info in there.

If you have a heat press, transfers might be better for you if you can find them or have them shipped to you.


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## fhulgzz (Dec 1, 2014)

Yes paper is good only for single use, I was thinking of using acetate or other non-absorbant papers.

I do not have a line table yet, Im just doing the manual, totally manual. Put the screen on the shirt and align every print. But I am planning to build a wooden printing press a four colors maybe.

Alright mate, thanks for all your replies. Im going to see the links you gave.


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