# Printing on ribbed tank tops



## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

Hi,

I was just wondering what size mesh people are using to print on 2x1 ribbed tank tops. I've been trying to use 195 mesh, but the valleys get messed up unless I press super hard. Then it eventually bleeds and looks sloppy. Should I be using 110 mesh with less detailed art? Can I fill in the valley areas with a base and then use a higher mesh for detailed work? Also, how much do i stretch the tank top over the palette?

Any information will help. Thank you.


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## Matto (Sep 28, 2007)

I did some of those. Dont stretch them or the print will be off when the shirt relaxes. As for the valleys I did not try to fill them I just did my print as usual. I can honestly say I didnt care for the look but the customer liked it.


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## neato (Mar 21, 2006)

Matto said:


> Dont stretch them or the print will be off when the shirt relaxes.


The problem with that is the print will look stretched once the shirt is worn. I always let my customers decide, most of the time, they'd rather have them printed while stretched so they look a little closer to normal when worn. It's a matter of opinion though.

These tanks just aren't made for printing, but it seems like everyone wants them printed. You're right Matto, the print never looks great on these.


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

neato said:


> The problem with that is the print will look stretched once the shirt is worn. I always let my customers decide, most of the time, they'd rather have them printed while stretched so they look a little closer to normal when worn. It's a matter of opinion though.
> 
> These tanks just aren't made for printing, but it seems like everyone wants them printed. You're right Matto, the print never looks great on these.



Thanks for your response. What size mesh were you guys using? I guess I just have to practice more and keep trying till it looks decent.


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## tman07 (Nov 14, 2007)

Just as important as the mesh count, are you using a stretch additive with your ink?

Wilflex has a stretch additive for that ribbed fabric. 

I use a 140 or 160 with that additive, and it seems to go on pretty well.


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

tman07 said:


> Just as important as the mesh count, are you using a stretch additive with your ink?
> 
> Wilflex has a stretch additive for that ribbed fabric.
> 
> I use a 140 or 160 with that additive, and it seems to go on pretty well.


How much additive do you add and does that change the amount of time it goes through the dryer?

Thanks.


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## tman07 (Nov 14, 2007)

It is a curable additive, so it does not affect cure time. I mix almost 50% additive to ink, 
I would check with Wilflex for exact details.


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## JDM (Feb 24, 2007)

50% seems like a lot of additive. i would stick to 10-15%. also additives will affect your cure times a little especially when flashing.


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## JDM (Feb 24, 2007)

i use 110-123 mesh on ribbed tees and try to keep the art basic. you do need to get the ink down in the fabric by pushing a lil harder that usual or by double stroking. this will help seal the ribs so it doesn't crack when stretched. just make sure you have a screen with good tension and print flash print if you get bleeding that is caused by there not being enough ink on the shirt. if bleeding happens during curing than you need to switch to a low bleed ink like union's 1070 diamond white. hope this helps.


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## tman07 (Nov 14, 2007)

So Justin, you don't use a stretch additive with ribbed material? 

And by the way, the Wilflex stretch additive is a curable base, it doesn't extend the cure time and the directions say 50% mix, and it doesn't affect opacity.


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

Thanks for the responses. I think I will use a lower mesh and use a little additive.


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## staned (Feb 25, 2007)

use water base on ribs and your prints will look and feel great. send me your address and i'll mail you a 2x1 boy beater with matsui ink loaded on it, a huge design with no hand. you can't believe how much ink is "in" this shirt with no bleed through to the back or effect on the stretch. this job turned out so nice that yesterday i mailed one to the ink distributor (westix) and the apparel manufacture (next level). you know, i think i'm starting to get the hang of this and it feels good. something will come along and knock me down a peg or two, but for now it's great to have mastered a process that can really be a selling point. no hand stan


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## staned (Feb 25, 2007)

test, test, is this thing on?


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

staned said:


> test, test, is this thing on?


I have to get my hands on waterbase first. Will probably have to test later cause i have other jobs to do. I'm super busy with my own clothing line, clients designs, and more jobs. The ribbed test will come when i get spare time again. I will let you guys know when the time comes. I appreciate all the help and time spent here.

Thanks again!


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## VernNY (Jan 31, 2009)

staned said:


> use water base on ribs and your prints will look and feel great. send me your address and i'll mail you a 2x1 boy beater with matsui ink loaded on it, a huge design with no hand. you can't believe how much ink is "in" this shirt with no bleed through to the back or effect on the stretch. this job turned out so nice that yesterday i mailed one to the ink distributor (westix) and the apparel manufacture (next level). you know, i think i'm starting to get the hang of this and it feels good. something will come along and knock me down a peg or two, but for now it's great to have mastered a process that can really be a selling point. no hand stan



Staned. What kind of press are you using? I work on a manual, and I'm wondering if there is any hope of me getting results as good as what you describe.


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## miktoxic (Feb 21, 2008)

just bumping this because i'm doing this for a bunch of girls who work in a salon.

they don't order a big quantity of shirts which is good because i've found that using heat applied vinyl works a lot better than trying to screen print.


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

Thanks Tim.



miktoxic said:


> just bumping this because i'm doing this for a bunch of girls who work in a salon.
> 
> they don't order a big quantity of shirts which is good because i've found that using heat applied vinyl works a lot better than trying to screen print.


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## ncpawprinter (Nov 27, 2012)

Thanks for all of the info. I'm working on an order for a client right now that are ribbed tanks for body builders. The print is simple, just words, but I've printed on this type of shirt before with poor resorts using plastisol. I'll try waterbased and stretch to see what works best.


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## kraze (Dec 7, 2007)

Hey Shawn,

I was told waterbase is easier to use. I didn't use waterbase because I didn't have a dryer equipped for it. I could've ran it twice thru my dryer but I didn't want the tanks to shrink. Good luck and let us know how it goes.


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## ncpawprinter (Nov 27, 2012)

kraze said:


> Hey Shawn,
> 
> I was told waterbase is easier to use. I didn't use waterbase because I didn't have a dryer equipped for it. I could've ran it twice thru my dryer but I didn't want the tanks to shrink. Good luck and let us know how it goes.


Will do, thanks.


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## SarahConnor (Mar 22, 2015)

Does the 200 that is stamped onto speedball frames mean 200-count mesh? 
I'm going to be using those on some ribbed tanks. A Burning Man group wants them to look foxy and for the sunny weather.  
They realize the limitations and jankiness of the prints.


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## miktoxic (Feb 21, 2008)

SarahConnor said:


> Does the 200 that is stamped onto speedball frames mean 200-count mesh?
> I'm going to be using those on some ribbed tanks. A Burning Man group wants them to look foxy and for the sunny weather.
> They realize the limitations and jankiness of the prints.


yes that means 200 mesh count. remember a lot of the small tight fit girl's tees are going to be hard to put on a regular 14 x 16 pallet, in fact the s and xs are painfully tight on the pallet which mean you're printing on fabric that is stretched so tight that when you pull it off it looks like a mess. invest in a youth pallet.


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