# Sublimation on Polyester Fabric with Polyurethane Backing



## xixstar (Jan 25, 2011)

I am looking for information on using sublimation and heat press technology to print on polyester fabric that has a polyurethane film on the opposite side (note that I'm trying to print on the fabric side, not shiny side). My concern is that the heat will melt or damage the polyurethane layer and that the final result is durable.

I make cloth diapers that are made with PUL (polyurethane lined) fabric and am looking for new ways to add embellishments to them. It needs to be a durable finish because these items are washed frequently, sometimes daily, in hot water and dried on high-heat in the dryer as well. The PUL fabric was originally designed to be autoclave safe but my limited research shows that to be at temperatures around 160F and several youtube videos mentioned setting/pressing at temperatures over 300F (I realize that can vary). 

I was talking with my mother about buying an embroidery machine (she has an embroidery machine business, many states away) and she recommended I look into heat press (and this forum) instead. I'm just trying to see if this is a possible venture or not. Otherwise, it's back to the drawing board for purchasing an embroidery machine. 

Thank you.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

you may have to try a test...the material has to take 400F for a minute or so... Don't know about polyurethane


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## JYA (Jun 2, 2008)

xixstar said:


> I am looking for information on using sublimation and heat press technology to print on polyester fabric that has a polyurethane film on the opposite side (note that I'm trying to print on the fabric side, not shiny side). My concern is that the heat will melt or damage the polyurethane layer and that the final result is durable.
> 
> I make cloth diapers that are made with PUL (polyurethane lined) fabric and am looking for new ways to add embellishments to them. It needs to be a durable finish because these items are washed frequently, sometimes daily, in hot water and dried on high-heat in the dryer as well. The PUL fabric was originally designed to be autoclave safe but my limited research shows that to be at temperatures around 160F and several youtube videos mentioned setting/pressing at temperatures over 300F (I realize that can vary).
> 
> ...


Hey Karen! The PVC backing will begin to melt. You can try putting a teflon sheet underneath it in the hope that it doesn't melt everywhere. It will be VERY hot when you pull it out and retains heat for a much longer period of time than 600D Poly without a backing.

Good luck!


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## xixstar (Jan 25, 2011)

JYA said:


> Hey Karen! The PVC backing will begin to melt. You can try putting a teflon sheet underneath it in the hope that it doesn't melt everywhere. It will be VERY hot when you pull it out and retains heat for a much longer period of time than 600D Poly without a backing.
> 
> Good luck!


Thank you for the feedback. Looks like I'll go back to the embroidery machine then. That is too bad because we were also entertaining the idea of helping our oldest daughter pursue a t-shirt business since she got a screen print kit and we thought that printing transfers would be easier to manage than screen printing and figured it'd be a nice 'two birds, one stone' option.


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## JYA (Jun 2, 2008)

I'm not saying not to try it. Test one out and see for yourself.


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## lavina (May 3, 2016)

JYA said:


> Hey Karen! The PVC backing will begin to melt. You can try putting a teflon sheet underneath it in the hope that it doesn't melt everywhere. It will be VERY hot when you pull it out and retains heat for a much longer period of time than 600D Poly without a backing.
> 
> Good luck!


Hey Jya and Karen,
I have tried doing a sublimation print on a 1000D poly with PVC backing (poly-side up) (at 210 C) and it did indeed melt and shrink giving the surface a few 'puckered scars'. 
My question is could you do a sublimation print on a polyester with Polyurethane backing, PU side up? Would it melt?
Thanks in advance!


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## JYA (Jun 2, 2008)

Yes.

We're using non-coated 600D, however, you should hot knife cut it so the edges don't fray. We usually back this with another material to give it strength.

There are plenty of strong warp knit polys that you can use in place of the 600D, and, they print MUCH better than the 600D. Top Value (Erica), Berger (Chris), DigiFab (Marty), Fisher (Ali) all have them.

Here are two photos of bags we've done with the DigiFab 7.5oz warp knit:


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