# Help! Want dye sublimation t-shirt similar to Soft L'ink



## rivals (Jul 31, 2009)

Hello All! I have been combing the globe for a tshirt with the same type of construction as the discontinued Hanes Soft L'ink with the poly outside and cotton inside. Mainly because my customers complain that Vapor and Rivers End's polyester white shirts are too thin. (I am new to this forum so I hope I can state this out there!Forgive me!) Don't get me wrong, I love the those shirts, but they only work for my customer if I dye sub the whole shirt to cover up the transparency of their product. Does ANYONE have NEW info on someone carrying a thicker product or Poly outside/cotton inside t-shirt? I can only find one place and it is outside of US. Bummer. Haven't heard back from them on whether they import to US, so I am assuming not. GOTTA BE SOMEONE OUT THERE!!!!!


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## jpkevin (Oct 22, 2007)

This is not answering your questions exactly, so I appoligize. Have you tried the Vapor Basic T in the November White color. It is an off white color so that it seems thicker, and people seem to like that.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Vapor Apparal has what you need


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

skdave said:


> Vapor Apparal has what you need


I don't think you read his/her post.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Check out the post about doing dye sublimation on a 50/50 shirt using dye sub inks and chromoblast paper.


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## rivals (Jul 31, 2009)

Yes, thanks for pointing that out Brice. They are not answering my question. I have an account with Vapor Apparel and I like it for all over dye subbing, but I really want a thicker white t-shirt and was looking for one with poly outside and cotton inside. I understand November white is less transparent, but they want thicker when I just do a chest and back print. They don't want to see their bras or chest through the shirt!! Anyone else have ideas???


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## rivals (Jul 31, 2009)

Yeah, not what I was looking for and I have heard that from reading other posts about the november white. Thanks for trying


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

The soft link shirts are no longer made and as for as I know there are no other similar shirts made


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

rivals said:


> Hello All! I have been combing the globe for a tshirt with the same type of construction as the discontinued Hanes Soft L'ink with the poly outside and cotton inside. Mainly because my customers complain that Vapor and Rivers End's polyester white shirts are too thin. (I am new to this forum so I hope I can state this out there!Forgive me!) Don't get me wrong, I love the those shirts, but they only work for my customer if I dye sub the whole shirt to cover up the transparency of their product. Does ANYONE have NEW info on someone carrying a thicker product or Poly outside/cotton inside t-shirt? I can only find one place and it is outside of US. Bummer. Haven't heard back from them on whether they import to US, so I am assuming not. GOTTA BE SOMEONE OUT THERE!!!!!


The reason you are not finding another vendor for cotton inside and poly outside ...

Youth Soft L'ink™ T-Shirt (DISCONTINUED ITEMS)

"The revolutionary fabric is engineered specifically for use with sublimation transfer printing and is made from a *patent-pending* two-sided fabric that combines a 100% micro-polyester outer shell with a 100% ring-spun cotton interior."

It would take me some time to see if the patent grant was issued, I would have to search the USPTO database since I don't have an issue number, but good chance they were issued that patent.


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## Reich Supply Co (Oct 13, 2009)

In addition to what Riderz Ready said......there is also a specific paper available that you can print on with dye sub ink and transfer to 50/50 or 100% cotton white shirts.....if you dont need a moisture wicking shirt, this is a solution. It has the color "pop" of sublimation and lauders well....


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

Reich Supply Co said:


> In addition to what Riderz Ready said......there is also a specific paper available that you can print on with dye sub ink and transfer to 50/50 or 100% cotton white shirts.....if you dont need a moisture wicking shirt, this is a solution. It has the color "pop" of sublimation and lauders well....


Details please. Riderz Ready said use chloraplast paper... Not sure Sawgrass will bless that method.


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## Reich Supply Co (Oct 13, 2009)

The product is called R-Trans and it works very similar to Chromablast ink on Chromablast paper, but you use dye-sub ink and R-Trans paper. This way you can tackle full color 50/50 or 100% cotton fabric without a dedicated Chromablast system.


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

Riderz Ready said:


> Check out the post about doing dye sublimation on a 50/50 shirt using dye sub inks and chromoblast paper.


Are you referring to this thread? http://www.t-shirtforums.com/dye-sublimation/t157013.html


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

Reich Supply Co said:


> The product is called R-Trans and it works very similar to Chromablast ink on Chromablast paper, but you use dye-sub ink and R-Trans paper. This way you can tackle full color 50/50 or 100% cotton fabric without a dedicated Chromablast system.


Do you need to cut out the design? IE will it leave a box? The posts above suggest chromablast paper leaves a box. Will R-Trans? Is R-Trans compatible with Sawgrass inks and it's powerdriver? Perhaps there's am ICC driver for it? Not sure how you add new profiles to powerdriver.


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## Reich Supply Co (Oct 13, 2009)

The paper does need to be trimmed, any cotton tranfer paper needs a coating on it to bond the ink to cotton...

R-trans does work great w the PowerDriver and Sawgrass inks, a bit better than Chromablast paper and dye sub inks. The blacks in an image turn almost brown after washing the garment a few times in all my tests using Chromablast paper and Dye sub ink. R-Trans holds up better....

The ChromaBlast thead is correct in all posts, it can be done, and is a solution....but R-Trans paper is cheaper per sheet and gives better results.


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

Reich Supply Co said:


> R-trans does work great w the PowerDriver and Sawgrass inks, a bit better than Chromablast paper and dye sub inks. The blacks in an image turn almost brown after washing the garment a few times in all my tests using Chromablast paper and Dye sub ink. R-Trans holds up better....


What do you use for the paper profile. My version of powerdriver only seems to support a limited number of paper types. Is there a way to add additional paper types to powerdriver?


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## Reich Supply Co (Oct 13, 2009)

You have a Ricoh by the sounds of it...."picking paper type"....

I usually use the QC Pro paper type, but any of them should work. This is not a supported Sawgrass paper, so you wont have an R-Trans option in the PowerDriver.....


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## brice (Mar 10, 2010)

Printed a few 50/50 white shirts purchased 6 months or so ago so they were all of 1.50 each. Sub ink on sub paper is really dull/faded. Just washed them now. They are drying. I don't see sublimation on 50/50 as being acceptable with this dull an image as a result, unless you want a washed out look with no hand.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

brice said:


> Printed a few 50/50 white shirts purchased 6 months or so ago so they were all of 1.50 each. Sub ink on sub paper is really dull/faded. Just washed them now. They are drying. I don't see sublimation on 50/50 as being acceptable with this dull an image as a result, unless you want a washed out look with no hand.


Some are reporting good results on "burnout" shirts. Apparently the "burnout" process is removing the cotton from the 50/50 shirts leaving only poly fibers mostly.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Mike,
Does r trans paper come in wide format 54"?


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

mgparrish said:


> Some are reporting good results on "burnout" shirts. Apparently the "burnout" process is removing the cotton from the 50/50 shirts leaving only poly fibers mostly.


We tried this on a couple premade shirts and even bulk fabric and the ones we tested on had horrible results. Not sure if the burn out market is as big as it was a few years ago but curios if anyone finds one that will work with good results.


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## LB (Jul 25, 2009)

Reich Supply Co said:


> *The paper does need to be trimmed, any cotton tranfer paper needs a coating on it to bond the ink to cotton...*
> 
> R-trans does work great w the PowerDriver and Sawgrass inks, a bit better than Chromablast paper and dye sub inks. The blacks in an image turn almost brown after washing the garment a few times in all my tests using Chromablast paper and Dye sub ink. R-Trans holds up better....
> 
> The ChromaBlast thead is correct in all posts, it can be done, and is a solution....but R-Trans paper is cheaper per sheet and gives better results.


As I am the one that started the Chromoblast thread, I believe I stated that I tore the edges of the Chromoblast paper. It is a very soft paper and tears very easy making that an easy thing to do.


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## LB (Jul 25, 2009)

Reich Supply Co said:


> The product is called R-Trans and it works very similar to Chromablast ink on Chromablast paper, but you use dye-sub ink and R-Trans paper. This way you can tackle full color 50/50 or 100% cotton fabric without a dedicated Chromablast system.


Where does one go to purchase R-Trans paper?


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## rawbhaze (Jan 29, 2011)

LB said:


> Where does one go to purchase R-Trans paper?


You've been reading a sales pitch. You can buy it on his site which is conveniently linked in his sig.


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## LB (Jul 25, 2009)

rawbhaze said:


> You've been reading a sales pitch. You can buy it on his site which is conveniently linked in his sig.


Noooooo...tell me that ain't so


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## rawbhaze (Jan 29, 2011)

I'm with @riderzReady on the observation that burnout isn't nearly as popular as it once was.

I found that a heavyweight burnout shirt would sublimate with decent results. The only real issue is that the cheaper brands used the heavyweight shirts and skimped a little on the post burnout scrub and wash. It was common to have a little residue left where the poly and cotton fibers wove together. The residue is clear and you can't feel it- no way to easily detect it. This meant that the heat and pressure from sublimation would also activate the burnout chemical residue. When the burnout process is being done it is literally burning the cellulose fibers away. This leaves you with a "lovely" light brown box the size of your platen due to the cotton being scorched while sublimating. I would then have to scrub the area and wash the garment for it to be presentable. Too many extra steps to end up with a product whose style is available at a box store for $10, IMO.

However, I have had susccess with the burnout/sublimation combo in a different manner. I start with a normal poly-cotton blend garment. I then do the burnout process to a specific area. I use a product called Fiber Etch to do so. You can purchase the individual chemicals and mix yourself for cheaper but it's a PITA to only save a couple of bucks over a long print run. One other note- Fiber Etch calls for steam to activate it. I skip that and use a heat press with no problem.

Anyway, as an example let's just say that we are sublimating a heart. One approach is to contour the heart, say a quarter of it's size. This contour is made into a screen or other stencil. Screen the Fiber Etch. Align the transfer. Press at normal settings and activate both burnout and sublimation processes at the same time. Scrub the burnout and was the shirt. The sheerness of the burnout butted up against the (what we know to be) "faded" transfer makes the transfer look bolder. 

Another approach is to make the stencil the same size as the sublimated heart. This would mean burnout and sublimating as two different steps with the washing in between rather than after.

There is a whole lot of design possibilities with this concept and it's not something that can be found at a box store. It allows you to offer these products year 'round since only a small amount is removed. It appeals to those women who feel too exposed with an all over burnout shirt. They are often left feeling that they need to wear an undershirt (who wants to do that in the summer?) or not buying it to begin with. It's one of those things that designers are always on the hunt for- "How can I add perceived value for the cost of a nickel that will yield a dollar in return?"


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

This is what makes dye sub so cool - totally unique applications. Can you post a couples by chance? would love to see the end results.


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## rivals (Jul 31, 2009)

rawbhaze said:


> You've been reading a sales pitch. You can buy it on his site which is conveniently linked in his sig.



Just the newbie piping back in to what I started... but even if it's a sales pitch, has anyone tried it?? Maybe he would send a sample for people to try? I don't know, I'd like him to show it works. Wishful thinking maybe.

Anyway, thanks everyone for hitting this thread. Have learned a lot so far and I think these are all big issues for sublimators out there!

As for dye subbing on the 50/50 burnout t issues, I've had lots of luck and my customers love them. Very popular and no complaints. One thing I've personally noticed is that if you use fabric softener or a dryer sheet with them, it wears at the fabric and therefore fades the print much faster. Something customers might do to all of their clothes when they dry them. If I don't do that, it looks as good as I when I first printed it. Need a notice or note maybe when they buy them to not use dryer sheets. I know not all will follow through, but at least you warned them.


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## rawbhaze (Jan 29, 2011)

Riderz Ready said:


> This is what makes dye sub so cool - totally unique applications. Can you post a couples by chance? would love to see the end results.


Yeah, I will post some pics here shortly. I'll do a tutorial in a separate thread if there is interest.

I have some pics and links from other sources for the time being and to give everyone an idea of the grand scheme of things. All of them are either artists or crafters (or one in the same at their skill level) so, generally speaking, the equipment is not on par with what we have access to and the steps haven't been streamlined for production. It can be done which is why I'm offering to do the tutorial.

Actually I'll just create the new thread now rather than post it here and further hijack the thread.



rivals said:


> Just the newbie piping back in to what I started... but even if it's a sales pitch, has anyone tried it?? Maybe he would send a sample for people to try? I don't know, I'd like him to show it works. Wishful thinking maybe.


I'm not dismissing what @Reich Supply Co claims, just pointing out the source of the testimony. I am trying to get a sample but I think I might see... is that smoke in the distance? Is that a burning bridge? 



rivals said:


> As for dye subbing on the 50/50 burnout t issues, I've had lots of luck and my customers love them. Very popular and no complaints. One thing I've personally noticed is that if you use fabric softener or a dryer sheet with them, it wears at the fabric and therefore fades the print much faster.


My reply is assuming that you are referring to sub ink on sub paper without any additives to help the ink bind to the cotton.

First, congratulations on getting over the hurdle! I'm glad that you are having success with it and hope you continue to do so. Are you using vintage designs?

I think your observation of fading due to softener and dryer sheets is coincidental. The ink that was pressed to the cotton fibers was washed away during the agitation cycle of the first laundering. The image that remains is the sublimated ink/dye and is not exposed to the softener and sheets.

Softeners and dryer sheets primarily consist of various lubricants that coat the surface of your laundry to give them the "soft" (it's actually slick) feel and eliminate static. Some softeners are better than others for different types of fibers but none harm any fibers. Specialized softeners are used by dye and finishing houses. Some dry cleaners may have them available as well. They aren't something that you'll find in a box store. The fabric softeners that the vast majority of us buy are "all-in-one" type of formulas.

Polyester doesn't fray and is somewhat elastic-y where as cotton does fray and shrinks over time. Gets kind of a fuzzy or hairy look to it. My speculation is that the fading that you are seeing is from the cotton fibers becoming frayed and mushrooming out over the polyester fibers. Keep in mind that I'm talking about at a microscopic level. As time goes on and the shirt experiences natural wear/tear and laundering, the cotton continues to deteriorate and further "fade" the image.

You can test my theory and if I'm correct you'll end up with a solution to fix the problem should you get any complaints in the future. Unfortunately I don't know of a way to prevent it all together. You'll need to get a hold of a fabric shaver if you don't already have one. Here's a link to one as an example of what to look for:
Amazon.com: Remington RPFS-100 Fuzz Away Fabric Shaver: Health & Personal Care

You run the shaver over the garment and it removes the cotton fuzzies that, in theory, are covering the non-fuzzied polyester fibers. Here's a before and after photo:









Let me know how it turns out. If you don't want to do it for whatever reason then send me a sample and I will.


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## h2opromedia (May 18, 2009)

Let me know if you find anything........I am having the same issues. I have been in LOVE with the Hanes Softlink shirts because of the thickness and quality. I have started moving into Vapor Apparel basic t's and they are a bit thin and see through. 

I found some on the internet from San Mar called Sport Tek.....kinda more sporty than loose fitting.

Also have been on a mission to find ladies tank tops (spaghetti strap or regular) for sublimation. No luck.

If we could only sublimate to 100% cotton......everything would be alright!!!


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

R trans I think is a total sales pitch. I would only spend what I could afford to lose....JMO


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

Who has ideas about reasons why Hanes Printables®*discontinued Soft L’ink™ T-Shirts which seem to be so popular and strongly supported by Sawgrass?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

$$$ - although something may be popular in dye sub the dye sub market is a not even a pimple on the butt of a company like Hanes. Companies do not stop making products that are profitable. Personally I think the shirt became more popular after it was discontinued than it ever was while it was available. If it was that popular and able to be made at a price point the market would bare a company like Vapor would have remade it.


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

@Signature Series. Thank you for your comment. 
But did Vapor actually remade it?
Since Soft L’ink™ T-Shirts discontinued, 8 years passed. What is current replacement for Soft L’ink?


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

don't believe a true dye sub ever came out


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

charles95405 said:


> don't believe a true dye sub ever came out


What is a true dye sub ?


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

we were talking about soft link and I wasn't clear....don't believe another true soft link type came out


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

Do not know about US, but in Europe one can find several versions of cotton inside/polyester outside T-shirts. Not sure how they are different from "true soft link" because never saw it. Do you believe, that "true soft link" was really good?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

I believe the quality and feel of poly shirts has improved to the point it is very difficult to tell the difference between a quality poly shirt and a cotton shirt. The market would seem to be pretty small today for a hybrid as people who want cotton want cotton.


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

Could it be that not only poly shirts quality improved, but modern two-side T-shirts now also much better then its soft link prototype?


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Signature Series said:


> I believe the quality and feel of poly shirts has improved to the point it is very difficult to tell the difference between a quality poly shirt and a cotton shirt. The market would seem to be pretty small today for a hybrid as people who want cotton want cotton.


One thing nice about the SoftL'ink was that they were thicker and not see through.

I haven't tried all the performance tshirt out there but the ones I tried were very thin, which makes sense if you are trying to evap moisture.

Many ladies don't like the brands I have sold because they are somewhat see thru ... which is OK by me ... but some had to wear sports bras with them.

The downside of SoftL'ink is that there is no added value being a performance tshirt, as they are not. I think regular sublimation t-shirts that are "wicking" one can explain the the upcharge to a customer as an added value.

SoftL'ink also tended to not have any permanent heat press lines. But of course those making cut and sew don't have that issue.


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## BrendaPhoto (Jan 6, 2017)

I find my Soft Link shirts on Ebay.. They are out there!


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

I found a vintage Soft-Link tee. It is extremely thick, and there is no indication on label where cotton is. Inside, outside or in the middle. Only mentioned that it has 15% of cotton (see the label). Is this the T-shirt discussed in this thread?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

Lungge said:


> I found a vintage Soft-Link tee. It is extremely thick, and there is no indication on label where cotton is. Inside, outside or in the middle. Only mentioned that it has 15% of cotton (see the label). Is this the T-shirt discussed in this thread?


That is the shirt. The concept was to offer a cotton feel (cotton on the inside) yet have the print quality of dye sub. The other big selling point at that time was the thickness. Many people, especially a decade ago, complain about the opacity if dye sub/active wear. Kind of fun to see how over the past decade poly has gone from a four letter word to a higher end fabric whereas cotton now is becoming a "VCR" at least in the active wear market.


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

cotton now is becoming a "VCR" at least in the active wear market.[/QUOTE said:


> Thanks for the info. But, I did not quite understand what "VCR" stands for, because English is not my native. I know that it can mean "video cassette recorder" but you mean hardly that .


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## BrendaPhoto (Jan 6, 2017)

Ebay has lots of SoftLink shirts for sale. Really.


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## Lungge (Apr 2, 2017)

BrendaPhoto said:


> Ebay has lots of SoftLink shirts for sale. Really.


Really? They were discontinued many years ago. Actually, my sample is long sleeve and as thick as hoodies. And I was informed that Softlink used only one fabric grade. 

By the way, who can explain me what "VCR" means in above post?


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## BrendaPhoto (Jan 6, 2017)

I guess buy all you can! I know it does not answer the long term need of a replacement.. but every t-shirt maker, supplier keeps changing their shirts anyways. If I like it.. it is gone the next year.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...t+shirts.TRS0&_nkw=softlink+t+shirts&_sacat=0


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## Nula (Sep 20, 2017)

Lungge said:


> Who has ideas about reasons why Hanes Printables®*discontinued Soft L’ink™ T-Shirts which seem to be so popular and strongly supported by Sawgrass?


I was told it was because the factory sewed a massive order up with the fabric inside out. They did not discern that only one side was sublimatable. Don't know if it's true or not. I have a few rolls of Soft L'Ink fabric, but not enough to go into blank production with.


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