# Monster Hard Cleanup for Plastisol Printing



## AbbieRoad (Feb 24, 2007)

Ack! Ok, still semi new to screenprinting, I've been doing it almost a year as a hobby. 

I've been using water based inks since day 1, and cleanup could not be easier. (except I haven't found an easy way to remove the haze without the harsh lye chemicals)

So I tried plastisol ink over the weekend. I made about 30 shirts with TexSource Cotton White Opaque
My first impressions:
It was super thick, like peanut butter, and pretty hard to spread, but I could get over that part....the part I couldn't stand was cleanup.

I scraped as much ink off the screen as I could, then I took the screen out back to cleanup with the pressure washer attachment on my hose, it's pretty strong. I used simple green, pressure washer, and scrubbing to clean the screen. It *did* clean, but the emulsion ended up coming off as well in spots, so I ended up just reclaiming the whole thing then and there.

I just don't get why everyone says waterbased is so hard! Plastisol was a nightmare! I might as well have been printing with pine sap and glitter, cause it would have been easier to clean out of the screen!
What am I doing wrong?!


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## aplusbowling (Dec 6, 2007)

You need to use an ink wash to remove the plastisol ink. The ink wash will degrade the ink.

This is the stuff I use and it works great. After scraping as much ink off the screen with the spatula, I'll take my squeegee and go over the screen a couple of times to get just about every bit of ink. After using the squeegee, I'll spary the screen with the ink wash and wipe down with a paper towel. Sometimes I might need to spray the open stencil area some more, but generally not.

PW-305 Press Wash - 195-8120


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## AbbieRoad (Feb 24, 2007)

really? no water or anything, just the spray and a paper towel? 

is the sticky peanut butter consistency a normal thing? 

Thanks!


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## aplusbowling (Dec 6, 2007)

From my experience, plastisol ink is generally thicker in consistency than waterbased ink.

Never had to use any water for my cleanup. One trick that I do when taping the edges of my screen is to actually tape quite a bit of the screen off. I'll stay about 3 inches from any side of my design and tape off the rest. After using the spatula and squeegee to remove as much ink as possible, I'll remove the tape and have a much smaller area to clean.


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

aplusbowling said:


> You need to use an ink wash to remove the plastisol ink. The ink wash will degrade the ink.
> 
> This is the stuff I use and it works great. After scraping as much ink off the screen with the spatula, I'll take my squeegee and go over the screen a couple of times to get just about every bit of ink. After using the squeegee, I'll spary the screen with the ink wash and wipe down with a paper towel. Sometimes I might need to spray the open stencil area some more, but generally not.
> 
> PW-305 Press Wash - 195-8120


This. I could not freaking believe how easy cleanup with press wash. I did the same thing, heavy spray, different cleaners, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, acetone, you name it.

Get some PW305 or some other press wash, you will be amazed.


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

AbbieRoad said:


> really? no water or anything, just the spray and a paper towel?
> 
> is the sticky peanut butter consistency a normal thing?
> 
> Thanks!


Super opaque whites are the thickest plastisols. The opaque low-bleed white I have (also from Lawson) is easily twice as thick as black or navy blue, or any color I have worked with.
I ordered some non-low-bleed white, as I have primarily been doing 100% cotton, its not supposed to be nearly as bad.


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## AbbieRoad (Feb 24, 2007)

midwaste said:


> Super opaque whites are the thickest plastisols. The opaque low-bleed white I have (also from Lawson) is easily twice as thick as black or navy blue, or any color I have worked with.
> I ordered some non-low-bleed white, as I have primarily been doing 100% cotton, its not supposed to be nearly as bad.


that's good to know, it was a big shock going from water based, which is really soft, easy to pour and move.... to this, which, like I said, might as well have been pine sap and glitter because it did not cleanup with out a major fight haha. 

I do have some brown plastisol, I'll try that, hopefully a bit easier to use!


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

Check the post out from aplusbowling too, I didnt see that. I cover all around the image with tape as well. Packing tape is cheaper than PW.


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## snarley (Feb 9, 2007)

Hi Abbie

Plastisol inks are very thixotropic which means that the ink will stiffen when not in use. When you stir or mix they will reduce slightly. you should always stir your ink before printing. If it is still to thick you can reduce the viscosity by adding a balanced reducer.

There are two types of reducers, the older version is based on a liquid plasticiser and is clear and oily. if you add to much the ink won't cure because there is to much plasticizer for the resin in the ink to absorb.

The best reducer is a balanced or curable reducer. It has both resin and plasticizer and will not affect the balance of the ink while lowering the viscosity or making it thinner.

There are other factors involved like screen mesh count, ink color, garment color. When printing light colored shirts, the ink should be smooth and creamy. For dark colored shirts and athletic prints it should be thicker.

Before reducing the ink check its consistency by stirring it first, if it is still to thick mix in a small amount of balanced reducer. the best way is to have a mixing board rather than try to mix the whole container. place your ink on the board stir it good and if necessary add the reducer. You can also do this on the print screen if your overall image will allow it.

Ink that is reduced slightly will flow through the screen and be easier to print and will result in sharper prints with good ink penetration. 

This is just few things of many when you get into other additives and types of speciality inks you will have other things to contend with. All of this becomes much easier as you progress in this field.

I hope this is of some help and good luck in your screen printing.

Bill m


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## AbbieRoad (Feb 24, 2007)

Wow, ok, I followed all your advice last night when I printed, taped off a ton more than I had been doing (I had originally only taped off the corners/edges) and then when cleanup time came, I didn't use ANY water, just simple green & paper towels. It worked great! I couldn't believe it! I have the screen wash you guys recommended on order too. 

It never occurred to me to clean something without water, I must have just over looked that part of the process! Thanks so much!

Abbie


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## supergerms (Jul 8, 2008)

Hi all,
Ah i have the same problem cleaning up with plastisols and i've tried a rub in chemical which was rubbish, and these press washes or screen openers sound fantastic, but i live in Australia and its crazy expensive to ship any of them over (if you can that is). Happen to know any thing in Aus, or and Aus printers be able to help me out?
cheers
- Michael


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## mrtshirtmaker (Nov 26, 2007)

*Chemical Equivalents*

Silly question, the "screen cleaner" stuff that I get from Ryonet has a citrus smell to it. It smells almost like Goo Gone. . .is it the same stuff?

The PW305 says it has a mild citus smell. . . is it basically Goo Gone ?

In "How to Print T-Shirts for Fun and Profit", it says that most specialty cleaners that you buy from silkscreen suppliers are the same chemicals that you can buy at any hardware store, for much cheaper. I'd like to see a list of chemical equivalents . . . and here peoples experience with using these chemicals.

I may post this as a new topic if it does not get many posts.

Thanks !

-mrtshirtmaker


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## Drandon (Mar 14, 2008)

The best ink and emulsion degradients I have used are the Franmar, soy-based chemicals. I'm not "green". I don't hug plant life. I just love the product. Franmar Chemical - Environmentally Friendly Cleaners and Removers


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## nxsprint (Oct 13, 2009)

Any other cleaners for plastisol ink that are available anthe hardware store?


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## 13Graphics (Jul 20, 2009)

I don't think press wash, and goo gone are the same. Smell the same yes, but goo gone is thicker, and yellow-orange. Press wash is very thin and clear. 

Besides, at $25/gallon press wash is cheaper anyway.


When I clean screens (which I hate doing) I get as much off with scoops as possible, then squeegee the hell out of it with a pellon under it. The squeegee gets 95+% of the ink, then I clean up with press wash and paper towels. I'm thinking about setting up one of my airbrushes to use as a continuous spray to washout dirty screens. I could catch the dirty stuff, and reuse it after the ink settles to the bottom.


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

I too use Franmar products and love it. Less harsh smell than the press wash I used from Ryonet.


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## Cflparanormal (Apr 23, 2014)

the simple green brand of citrus cleaner/degreaser works and smells just like press wash but is a lot cheaper and available at local auto parts and grocery store..


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## dudefor20 (Feb 25, 2008)

plastisol is a oil based ink. Water is not the answer. Use a ink degradatant to wipe/scrubb it down, then spray it off. Paint thinner mixed with mineral water is a cheap combination that works


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## dudefor20 (Feb 25, 2008)

30/70 mix when doing that


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