# Need a digitizer to make my 2 color logo 3D/puff



## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

Does anyone know how to digitize my "2 color" logo in 3d? Everyone does it in 1 color but the most experienced people dont even know how to do it in 2 colors. I need help!!!!


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

bigdog0628 said:


> Does anyone know how to digitize my "2 color" logo in 3d? Everyone does it in 1 color but the most experienced people dont even know how to do it in 2 colors. I need help!!!!


Rambo, We need to "see" what you are talking about, and know the particulars of this situation. 2 and 3 color "foam" designs have been done before, but this does not mean it's possible to do in all situations or with "your" particular logo. Details please.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

zoom_monster said:


> Rambo, We need to "see" what you are talking about, and know the particulars of this situation. 2 and 3 color "foam" designs have been done before, but this does not mean it's possible to do in all situations or with "your" particular logo. Details please.


 click on my logo to see the color red and white that I want 3d


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## Louie2010 (Feb 26, 2010)

When you say 3d, do you mean puff style embroidery?


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

However to make it 3d.... But I only kno
w puff 3d...


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

You did not specify a size. I will assume that this is going on a finished cap on the front. At a max 2.2" tall, the white bands in the neck are well under a mm thick. If you try to sew a satin that thin, you might as well not put foam under it because the pressor foot will not let it rebound. I explain to people that you need about 3 to 4mm to make it worth the time and expense. Another problem you will get with this type of design is that a simple satin will not work, so you will (the digitizer) have to decide where to break the design up. A tatami can work, but it tamps down the foam more. You either have to use more foam (thicker) with the dangers of that or settle for a lower "puff". Tatami fill on a finished cap is difficult. When this is done in large production, It's best done on pannels and with a machine that has the pressor foots raised and calibrated.


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## Louie2010 (Feb 26, 2010)

I have never done any puff embroidery myself, but I believe it not only takes specialized digitizing, but you also have to embroidery it differently using a special puff foam in order for it to look 3d.

Maybe someone here that is experienced with puff embroidery will be able to give you more specifics.


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## Louie2010 (Feb 26, 2010)

Looks like someone with experience has answered.


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

The design needs to be digitized as a Puff design. The embroidery machine also needs to be set up for Puff. When I sew Puff designs I remove all upper thread tension and almost all lower tension. The design has to be a satin stitch and the density needs to be set to .20mm. Use an outline stabilizing stitch with no other stabilizing stitch. Your design can be done in Puff but the red will have to be broken into several different objects.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

So do yall know a digitizer who can do this for me?


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

I can do it I just need to know the size of the logo


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

I PM'ed you to further discuss. I have not found anyone yet that can do it!


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## skits (Jun 24, 2009)

We can do this for you but will be charged for.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

I know . I will pay for just as long as it is correct. Thanks


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## skits (Jun 24, 2009)

Ok charge will be $10.00.
If you wish to proceed you can go onto our site and fill out the order form and then make payment.
We dont do any work without payment.


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## bungy (Aug 24, 2006)

For those just joining this discussion, you can catch up here --> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/embroidery/t151877.html

From the other thread, posted by bigdog0628 back on May 11


bigdog0628 said:


> I saw a hat the other day with 3 different colors in the 3d embroidery and looked amazing!! It was done by Richardson hats so I know it can be done.... I just need a digitizer that knows what i need!!!


I asked for a link to this hat you saw on May 13

Today is Aug 02...and still no link.

Can't help if you don't reply.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

Sorry about not getting a link back to you. I will send you a design of mulitcolor 3d embroidery.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

here are a couple of different ones ive found:

SRH 3D Gradient Spade Hat - Casual - Motorcycle Superstore
http://hatnpatch.com/zencart/index.phpmain_page=product_info&products_id=6776
PTS20C | Richardsoncap.com
500s5 | Richardsoncap.com


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

I would actually pay $50 to whoever can digitize this correctly. Email me at [email protected]. The design in going to be 2.75 inches wide and proportional in height.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

zoom_monster said:


> You did not specify a size. I will assume that this is going on a finished cap on the front. At a max 2.2" tall, the white bands in the neck are well under a mm thick. If you try to sew a satin that thin, you might as well not put foam under it because the pressor foot will not let it rebound. I explain to people that you need about 3 to 4mm to make it worth the time and expense. Another problem you will get with this type of design is that a simple satin will not work, so you will (the digitizer) have to decide where to break the design up. A tatami can work, but it tamps down the foam more. You either have to use more foam (thicker) with the dangers of that or settle for a lower "puff". Tatami fill on a finished cap is difficult. When this is done in large production, It's best done on pannels and with a machine that has the pressor foots raised and calibrated.


 This is how I would break it up. As I mentioned, the thinner the satin gets, the more the foam is tamped down.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

Why did you make the white part so big?


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

bigdog0628 said:


> Why did you make the white part so big?


Rambo, 
Part of the "art" of digitizing is engineering the elements of the embroidery to fit the process. Because an embroidery needle is .75mm thick and thread is .2 to .4, it is futile to digitize a section that will "break down" without taking that into consideration. The area that you are speaking off is already well below the threshold for puff embroidery (see my previous post). If you look at the links that you posted, there are no separate puff elements thinner than about 4mm... and on the parts that are sewn on top of puff elements, there is a reduction of the loft. This is just the way it is. 

Another consideration that is taken into account is pull compensation. If I digitize an element to be exactly 2mm wide..... guess what? when you sew it on fabric, the tension of the thread will cinch it thinner without fail. So when you see any simulation it will show thicker than what will eventually sew-out. When you shoot at a target XXX yards away you must account for gravity and the wind. For embroidery it's the same, if you want things to match up, you have to shoot wide to fit the process.


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## bigdog0628 (May 3, 2011)

so is there a way I can contact you better to discuss and pay you to digitize for me?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

:: edited thread TITLE to be more descriptive and moved to a more appropriate section of the forum  ::​
:: Service request post moved to the proper Service Referrals/Recommendations section of the forum. Read more here  ::​


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

bigdog0628 said:


> so is there a way I can contact you better to discuss and pay you to digitize for me?


If you click on the link in their signature, you'll find their contact info on their website. 

Same is true for the other members who have tried to help out


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## bungy (Aug 24, 2006)

bigdog0628 said:


> here are a couple of different ones ive found:
> 
> SRH 3D Gradient Spade Hat - Casual - Motorcycle Superstore
> http://hatnpatch.com/zencart/index.phpmain_page=product_info&products_id=6776
> ...


Thanks for the links.
They all look like they were done as flats, meaning they were stitched before the cap was assembled (peak sewn to crown). This makes the job easier for a start, less registration issues than trying to do this on a finished cap.

Not saying it can't be done, just becomes a bit more challenging.

However, the biggest issue I see with your design, is the large red area you want to cover with the body of the bird. That could present challenges when using foam to get the 3-D look.
I would look at doing it in segments, similar to how the yellow area was done on this cap


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