# Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White



## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

Hello everyone, I was wondering if it is possible to a proper cure with Union's Plasticharge White using just a flash dryer. Union's website states that the ink need to be at 320 deg. for at least 90 seconds. I don't have a conveyor dryer and it would only be for a small run of 24 shirts. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

The flash works fine, just raise it up a little, and maybe put a fan blowing on it on low speed. Your pallets will get very hot. Also, It seems to cure just fine at around 45 secs. If you have a heat press, it works the best of all, but is slow.


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## Yo' Daddy (Aug 17, 2007)

Hey,

Yes, I used to do that before I got a belt dryer. It's hard to do production runs with it though - your platens got so friggin' hot!

Cheers.


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

Thanks for the tip. I will have to wait after the weekend to try it out. I didn't get the ZFS Discharge Agent (DSPP-9ZFS) (I didn't know I had to buy separately). Also can you use the Union Plasticharge Additive (DSPCH-9070) to any type of ink, as well as color? Thanks!


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

you can mix the base w/ any plastisol, from what I understand. I've only had problems w/ reds, they turn either pinkish or orangeish and is hard to correct it. Pure pigment might be the best way on that.


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

macmiller said:


> you can mix the base w/ any plastisol, from what I understand. I've only had problems w/ reds, they turn either pinkish or orangeish and is hard to correct it. Pure pigment might be the best way on that.



That's really good to know. Now do I use a emulsion that suited for water based inks? I'm not sure because its part water based and part plastisol. Right now I use Lawson SBQ 500 emulsion. Also will the ink dry up my screen like a water based ink would? Thanks in advance.


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

it will dry up, do a thick flood after each print. i'm in the middle of a 210 pc order with a large (15"x21") print. 

also, it will break the stencil down. using ulano qt discharge it lasted for about 95 shirts, figuring each one had 2 or 3 pulls each. i'm waiting on the screen to dry to re-shoot it, that's why i'm here!!!

i normally use qx1 w/ no problems for about 60-80 prints. i plan on getting some hardner to prevent breakdown.


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## denck (Apr 7, 2009)

you dont neeed to cure the plastisol ink for 90 seconds.If you read the webpage Union Inks states that the ink needs to cure at 330 deg. In a conveyer over this process will normaly take 20 seconds. Buy a Temp gun and record the temp under the flash and see how long it takes the ink to reach 330 deg.


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

I did a short run of Matsui discharge on Ulano QX-1, 22 shirts. By the time I was done, there was pretty much no emulsion left on the squeegee side of the screen at all. I could have gotten more shirts out of it, but it blew off when I cleaned it.
I flooded the screen each time, and didn't have any problems with it drying in the mesh.
Also, I cured them all in a regular kitchen oven (that is not used for cooking) with LOTS of ventilation. I wouldn't cure them on your platens. If you are going to use a flash, just put the shirts on something else besides your platens and let the flash work while you print.

FWIW, I am about 99% sure that Lawson SBQ-500 is Ulano QTX and SBQ-510 is QX-1. I have SBQ-510 and QX-1 and I can't tell a difference.


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

denck said:


> you dont neeed to cure the plastisol ink for 90 seconds.If you read the webpage Union Inks states that the ink needs to cure at 330 deg. In a conveyer over this process will normaly take 20 seconds. Buy a Temp gun and record the temp under the flash and see how long it takes the ink to reach 330 deg.


I know that is the case with regular plastisol ink, but is it still the same with "Plasticharge Ink"? I could of sworn the website said at least 90 seconds to a get a proper discharge.


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## tman07 (Nov 14, 2007)

Back in the good old days when I cured my shirts using a flash panel, I would take the shirt off the shirt board after printing, and place it on another board so my shirt board wouldn't get so hot.
Then I would load a new shirt and print it. By then the shirt that I was curing was finished and my was able to maximize my time better.


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

snackdaddy185 said:


> I know that is the case with regular plastisol ink, but is it still the same with "Plasticharge Ink"? I could of sworn the website said at least 90 seconds to a get a proper discharge.


 i think he meant regular plastisol. plasticharge is longer but not 90 sec, more like 45-60. depending on the mesh, a lower mesh just puts more in and takes longer to fully discharge it. a heat press will do it in 15-20 sec, but kills production speeds, trust me!!


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

macmiller said:


> i think he meant regular plastisol. plasticharge is longer but not 90 sec, more like 45-60. depending on the mesh, a lower mesh just puts more in and takes longer to fully discharge it. a heat press will do it in 15-20 sec, but kills production speeds, trust me!!


I may try to use a heat press just to make sure it is properly cured, (production speed is not really a factor since I am only doing 24 shirts). What heat setting did you set your heat press to? Thanks!


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

what works well for me is almost no pressure to keep it soft. 325 degrees for15 seconds is long enough, but 30 gets more of the smell out.


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

macmiller said:


> what works well for me is almost no pressure to keep it soft. 325 degrees for15 seconds is long enough, but 30 gets more of the smell out.


Have you done any discharge/plastisol combo prints using these heat press settings?


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

midwaste said:


> Have you done any discharge/plastisol combo prints using these heat press settings?


no, but i don't see any problems. but speaking of plasitsol/plasticharge combos, i've had better luck flashing the discharge first, then the plastisol after that. you can do wet on wet, but the edges are sharper if you flash it just long enough to be dry to the touch, not enough to fully discharge. that is my way around for getting good reds for right now.


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