# t-shirt lines - the inkjet printed transfer looks cracked



## soulethal (Sep 4, 2006)

when i barely stretch my t-shirt, or wear it for a couple of hours after it's been pressed, i am able to see the t-shirt lines. the transfer looks cracked. could it be the ink or paper.
i have an epson c86. and i use alpha green line light transfer paper.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

I'm not an expert with transfers like some here, hopefully some one will chime in...my experience is that all of the papers crack, I have yet to find one that doesn’t, now others will states different, but I have tried all the recommend brands, temp, time, ink, pressure, they all crack, now if you are doing some swap meet t-shirts, or some random prints for friends the paper is ok, if your selling retail, don’t even bother, I only use plastisol......sorry guys that’s MY experience, I'm sure others will be different...good luck!

 
Mike

PGCC


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

are you guys serious ?
what, you dont like the cracking ?
You know, if it dosen't crack its not an authentic digital transfer.  lol ....just kiddin'

I'm also not an expert but I have used Xerox CLC and their transfer paper media, along with a NO-name brand opaque backing and these transfers do not crack. They are heavy and weigh down the shirt but feel smooth. For what it is, it works.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

Lucy is correct, I was speaking on light transfers, yes I have used opaque papers that did not crack.

MIke

PGCC


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

PGCC said:


> Lucy is correct, I was speaking on light transfers, yes I have used opaque papers that did not crack.
> 
> MIke
> 
> PGCC


Light transfers meaning the ones that are made for WHITE or close to it shirt colors guys. Just in case some are wondering what is being said here.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

I use transfer paper from www.bestblanks.com I have used a bunch of others and this works the best for me - also very important is to stretch the transfer after you press it when it is still hot this will give it a soft feel and will help it from cracking later - I was having the same problem until someone on this board told me to do this - I give it a good pull when its hot and it seems to work great - what kind of ink are you using?


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

Yes I'm speaking on the paper for light color shirts..

yanaga - thanks for that tip, I will try it, hopefully it works... I really want it NOT to crack.

Mike

PGCC


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## John S (Sep 9, 2006)

Check out the videos by badalou. He shows the stretching technique.

Don't stretch to far/hard, but while it is still very hot.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

Thanks... and this technique works for light trans paper for light shirts?

And stops it from cracking?

Mike


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

PGCC said:


> Thanks... and this technique works for light trans paper for light shirts?
> 
> And stops it from cracking?


That's what Lou says 

Check out about 2:18 into this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuQZmtHb3no


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## mrtoad (Oct 20, 2006)

John S said:


> Check out the videos by badalou. He shows the stretching technique.
> 
> Don't stretch to far/hard, but while it is still very hot.


Is that for all papers or just Iron All? I am using TransJet II.

Thanks,
Mike


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## John S (Sep 9, 2006)

I use TransJet II and IW JetII from imprintables.com


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## Buechee (Dec 22, 2005)

I think lou said trans jet II was cool to use. He's used a lot and can tell you all about paper.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

OK lets get our fact straight. I did say transjet II was cool to use.. But did I say cool or did I say my second choice over Iron All. Because Iron All does not crack. It stretches. The problem with iron all is availability. A lot of the distributors keep running out. So then if I do not have Iron All then it is defiantly Transjet II


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## mrtoad (Oct 20, 2006)

Lou,

Should I stretch TransJet II the same what though you stretched the Iron All in your video? I currently have about 40 sheets so that is what I will be using and unsure if I need/should be stretching it after applying.

Thanks,
Mike



badalou said:


> OK lets get our fact straight. I did say transjet II was cool to use.. But did I say cool or did I say my second choice over Iron All. Because Iron All does not crack. It stretches. The problem with iron all is availability. A lot of the distributors keep running out. So then if I do not have Iron All then it is defiantly Transjet II


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## mrtoad (Oct 20, 2006)

John S said:


> I use TransJet II and IW JetII from imprintables.com


Are they the same papers?


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

I pressed, I stretch, it still cracks, no luck on my side..

Mike

PGCC


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

PGCC said:


> I pressed, I stretch, it still cracks, no luck on my side..
> 
> Mike
> 
> PGCC


 
what type of knit was it? did you stretch it side to side or up and down ?


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## soulethal (Sep 4, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> what type of knit was it? did you stretch it side to side or up and down ?


i use AAA t-shirts


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

soulethal said:


> i use AAA t-shirts


those are a jersey knit, they do have a little stretch to them. 
Has anyone tryed these transfers on non-stretch linen for example ?


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## taurusndixie (Aug 6, 2006)

It seems to me that t shirts are not tightly woven like a dress shirt. Should you take a blank tee and stretch it you will see between the loosely woven threads. When a ink transfer is placed on this T shirt, it will appear cracked when stretched, because what you are seeing is the same seperation of the loosely woven threads.

Am I wrong ? Is cracking prints nothing more than what I have described above ?

Happy Pressing,

Don


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

taurusndixie said:


> Is cracking prints nothing more than what I have described above ?


More or less (or at least that's one way; there are others), but unlike the shirt the print still looks cracked when returned to a relaxed state, so ideally you want it to stretch with the fabric.


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## Buechee (Dec 22, 2005)

PGCC said:


> Lucy is correct, I was speaking on light transfers, yes I have used opaque papers that did not crack.
> 
> MIke
> 
> PGCC


Can you use opaque on lights? I would think, so why not just use that and you have one paper for light and dark. Most plastisols I buy are like that. Just wondering.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Buechee said:


> Can you use opaque on lights? I would think, so why not just use that and you have one paper for light and dark.


Because you'd have to cut more with the opaque, and it has a much heavier hand (which most people don't like). I also thought the majority of people actually have more problems with cracking with opaque paper than light (but I may be wrong about that).


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## Buechee (Dec 22, 2005)

so what really is a good paper? It seems that no one can really say. Some seem to think the miracool is it, but if it cracks like to rest, why bother?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> so what really is a good paper? It seems that no one can really say.


I think that about sums it up  There's no universal "good" or perfect paper for all people or all purposes. 



> Some seem to think the miracool is it, but if it cracks like to rest, why bother?


Some people get miracool to work just fine without cracks and without problems, others have a harder time with it.

Some people prefer the ease of use of transjet II and have been using it fine and selling it without problems or complaints. Others prefer to use a different brand.

Just keep trying the different papers until you find the one that YOU can call a "good paper". Then at least you'll have it defined for yourself


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## yummymom007 (Dec 10, 2006)

I haven't heard much about the Duracotton98 lately so I wonder are those that are testing it saying its not a good substitute for screenprinting. What is the verdict?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> I haven't heard much about the Duracotton98 lately so I wonder are those that are testing it saying its not a good substitute for screenprinting. What is the verdict?


You may want to follow up in the Duracotton thread here to see if there are any updates. I know there have been some photos and experiences posted there. 

I don't know that it was ever supposed to be a "substitute" for screenprinting, just an improved heat transfer paper for laser printers.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

After buying all brands and testing, I have come to the conclusion that all light paper cracks, that’s just the way it is, stretching did help a bit, but not much.

I know Lou states his does not, but I bet if he sent me a shirt and I pull it.... it will crack, see some people look at the transfer and stretch it just a bit and say its fine wont crack, I take a transfer and really pull it so it cracks, I do retail so I expect a higher quality product, a lot of what’s out there in retail do crack, (I went to Walmart and cracked like 50 tees, just checking them) so I know other clothing lines don’t care about the quality, but if your serious, then light transfers are junk...plastisol is what I swear by...

I do use opaque transfers for lights that don’t crack, but like it was mentioned above the hand is heavy....I have only 2 designs that this paper is used on based on them being boxed pictures.....

Just my experience...Lou send me a shirt, I'll even pay for it...

MIke

PGCC


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> I take a transfer and really pull it so it cracks


isn't this beyond what a normal customer would do in everyday wear and tear/washing?


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## Jussto (Oct 1, 2006)

Mike...

I did you test transjet2?...because I just ordered some and if what you say is true then this is really going to suck for me...if this is the case for all transfers on light tshirts then whats the point in doing transfers on light shirts if they are going to crack?... Im just starting out and I dont want customers complaining about the quality...is anyone else having the same problem as Mike?…or has been successful selling light /white t-shirts on transjet2 or any other paper?


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Rodney said:


> isn't this beyond what a normal customer would do in everyday wear and tear/washing?


yes it is beyond normal wear and tear.

Normal wear meaning printed on tight jersey knits, they wont crack to badly because there is not much stretch in the fabric. I'm talking basic t-shirts.

But, the fact of the matter is that a large market sector are women and men that prefer to wear fitted shirts meaning rib knits and so on. So, when a girl/lady or man wears these shirts, it stretches enough to crack the prints in a short time.

But again, this stretch knits cracking issue is also a problem with your basic Plastisol transfer.

add on: the best way to rank the quality of any transfer, it to gently use your thumb and try to scrape off the print and see what happens.


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## Jussto (Oct 1, 2006)

Lucy**

can you tell me more about how Plastisol transfer works if you dont mind...I'm hearing so many things in these threads in not sure which direction I should go now?...and I do want a quality product.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

"isn't this beyond what a normal customer would do in everyday wear and tear/washing? "

Thats right, so if it stands up to my test it will be fine in retail, I know the buyer wont do this, this is my way, not saying its correct, but this is my test, I take plastisol and stretch it over my knee, no cracks....best quality in the world..

Jussto - I have tried this paper, I do stand by what I posted, I made a boy beater...(girls wife beater) for a friend, looked so good, she put it on, cracked right over the chest, just like Lucy said.....

Mike

PGCC


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Jussto said:


> Lucy**
> 
> can you tell me more about how Plastisol transfer works if you dont mind...I'm hearing so many things in these threads in not sure which direction I should go now?...and I do want a quality product.


hi.

it all depends on your artwork and on the finish end result you need. 
Plastisol may or may not be what you need. It depends. 

As for plastisol transfers, a lot can be achieved today. They are simple to apply.

The best is to contact some of the plastisol transfer makers recommended on the board, tell them what you are planning to do and ask them to send you samples of the transfer type you need.

If you give me some details about your project i may be able to offer more help. 

I do need to take my kid to Karate lesson in 1/2 hr or so, but I'll back.


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## Jussto (Oct 1, 2006)

Mike

where do you get your plastisol tranfers done?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

Justto said:


> can you tell me more about how Plastisol transfer works if you dont mind...I'm hearing so many things in these threads in not sure which direction I should go now?


Plastisol transfers, put simply, are screen printing inks (plastisol) put on heat transfer (release) paper.

So instead of screen printing on a t-shirt, the screen printer prints on release paper. They then send that release paper to you and you use a heat press to press the design on the shirt.

But I don't want to veer this thread too much off the topic of inkjet printed transfers  You can read all about how plastisol transfers work by doing a forum search for plastisol transfers and reading through the threads (scan the past thread titles for relevant info). There are definitions, videos, pictures, etc.



justto said:


> or has been successful selling light /white t-shirts on transjet2 or any other paper?


there are several people on this forum that are selling t-shirts printed with transjet II paper with no problems. Although they may not be reading this particular thread (yet), if you search the forums for transjet, you'll see posts where people have used it successfully on their sites.

Like Mike said, the super stretch test is just his particular test of quality. It may not be in line with what everyone else needs or wants. I think once you try a few papers and do your own tests, you may be able to find a paper that works for you and your needs.



PGCC said:


> Thats right, so if it stands up to my test it will be fine in retail, I know the buyer wont do this, this is my way, not saying its correct, but this is my test, I take plastisol and stretch it over my knee, no cracks....best quality in the world..


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## Jussto (Oct 1, 2006)

-Thanks Rodney


i believe I should also test this for myself and look into Plastisol transfers
 as well


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

"Like Mike said, the super stretch test is just his particular test of quality. It may not be in line with what everyone else needs or wants. I think once you try a few papers and do your own tests, you may be able to find a paper that works for you and your needs."

Thats the most important statement here...try it on our own, I'm giving you the method I use, I'm super pickey, and my customers are also, we sell high end $100 US a hoodie, now if you paid that price and it cracked, you'd be pissed, I need all my customers to be happy whatever it takes, everyone's standard is different.

I get my plastisol from spot 98..

MIke


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> I'm super pickey, and my customers are also, we sell high end $100 US a hoodie, now if you paid that price and it cracked, you'd be pissed,


That's another good point. The actual use of the transfer. On a $100 hoody, there's no way I'd use an inkjet transfer. I don't think that all inkjet transfers will crack, but (depending on the design) I think the best quality will come from either a plastisol transfer or a vinyl transfer.

For a $15-$20 t-shirt, an inkjet transfer will work. Especially for a multicolor photo type image. I've seen lots of t-shirts printed this way that didn't after wearing and washing several times.

But, if you have a $15-$20 white t-shirt and your design is just a one color (black) image, you have to think about all the options available to you. You *could* do an inkjet transfer, but you would probably get better quality out of a vinyl transfer or a plastisol transfer.

For a $15-$20 (talking retail price) BLACK t-shirt with a one color white design, I don't know that I'd even consider an inkjet transfer. Sure, there are opaque transfer papers that can work for printing white on black shirts, but again, there are better options out there for a single color design on a black shirt (like vinyl transfers or plastisol).

Lots of things to consider


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Rodney said:


> Lots of things to consider


that is it.

if you are considering selling to the one offs market with photo type designs with lots of colors, digital transfers are a good way to go. 

So you want the best quality possible for such ? just print them on the tightest jersey knit t-shirts you can find and there you have it (along with good quality transfers) , a good product for that specific market.

In this market, clients sort of know by now they are not getting screen printed goods, and the ones that don't, you simply explain to the customer what they are getting.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

PGCC said:


> (I went to Walmart and cracked like 50 tees, just checking them)




Hahahaha. I'd think that was horrible if it wasn't Walmart. Do retailers see you coming and lock up their doors?


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

Rodney said:


> isn't this beyond what a normal customer would do in everyday wear and tear/washing?


It's pushing it a lot of the time, but on the other hand some customers are more well endowed than others... in which case the shirt will definitely experience exactly that much stress.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> Hey, dont knock it.


I'm not sure it's a good idea to advocate going into stores and destroying merchandise for the purpose of testing


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## taurusndixie (Aug 6, 2006)

Seems to me what some call cracking many time is actually the loosely woven fabric seperating when pulled hard. So, if the fabric is maintained in a stretching fashion as it is pressed then the ink would be distributed better between the frabric. The picture in the computer would have to be stretched a little to compensate. Now, trick is to figure a way to hold the shirt in a slightly stretched position on the press.

Now, anyone know if a dyesub print shows fiber seperating when stretched as a injet print does ?

Don


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

taurusndixie said:


> Seems to me what some call cracking many time is actually the loosely woven fabric seperating when pulled hard.


Not really: do that once and it won't look the same when returned to a relaxed state.



taurusndixie said:


> Now, anyone know if a dyesub print shows fiber seperating when stretched as a injet print does ?


I've dye sublimated lycra: it has very good stretchability. It looks _slightly_ faded when stretched to the extreme, but basically it works very well.


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## PGCC (Oct 10, 2006)

I dont do the "real hard pull" at Walmart, just the a little 2 thumb pull, they still crack....


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