# How To Line Your Image Up So It Is Straight?



## sweetbaby (Jul 8, 2008)

Does anyone have any tips on how to line your image up so it is straight before heat pressing it? 

My shirts keep coming out just a little bit crooked, not sure how to get them totally straight. 

Thanks!


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## plan b (Feb 21, 2007)

You need to look at Heat press Essentials thats the best tool for the job


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

So people learn to do it by eye, some people use a tool like the teesquareit or the perfect transfers tool


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I use a Fringe Cut (Part number JT-789) by June Taylor. It's intended purpose is for making fringe blankets, scarves, etc, but it is lined and numbered, just like other tools for alignment. I work in youth and found other tools too large for use with my smaller items. With this product, I can use it for adult shirts as well as the small ones. I picked it up at Walmart for $11.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Here is a pic of it, and this price is pretty good, too.
June Tailor Rulers Fringe Cut 6"x 24" Product Detail -- CreateForLess


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## bogie (Dec 24, 2007)

Which is faster? The t-square or the perfect transfers dealie?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

bogie said:


> Which is faster? The t-square or the perfect transfers dealie?


I think it depends on the person. It's like asking, which is better, Mac or PC  Some prefer one, some prefer the other.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

I sunk my heat press into one of my work benches, I then drew lines on the table for each size shirt and a few extra for those odd shirts as well. When I layout the shirt I line it up with the lines on the table and of course the press is square with this as well. I then use a straight edge for vertical alignment. They come out just about perfect, but no two shirts are exact anyway so it's close enough to perfect.


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## Robin (Aug 28, 2006)

if you dont already have a center line down the shirt, give it a quick press folded in half length ways. 

...find the center of your transfer. I always just bend it back on itself, match up my ends, and pinch the center lines at the top and bottom of the transfer.

...match your center line to your center lines on the transfer

Easy Peasy. Works every time!


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I use the Teesquareit for all my alignments. I have found it to be a great tool and has increased my productivity a lot. I have 3 of them ,1 for each press. I have never used any other alignment tool. .... JB


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Better make sure your transfer is cut straight, boy i have gotten some crooked transfers lately, one whole bunch I had to recut..
I use the t-square and love it, and the logo it, 
I have not tried the others. 
Sandy JO


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## inkables (May 27, 2008)

I recently purchased the teesquareit to use on some softball jerseys to align a logo on the front. It worked great for us!


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## bogie (Dec 24, 2007)

Design Tip:

Design your stuff so that it doesn't have to be perfectly straight - Put text at angles, curve it, etc... 

This is easy to do with plastisols, but a PITA for printed xfers...


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

R1Lover said:


> I sunk my heat press into one of my work benches, I then drew lines...


You will be my hero if you post some pictures of this.


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## CUSTOM UK (Jun 28, 2008)

*I recently invested in one of Lou's teesquare devices. Took a little getting used to, but it has helped to get good alignment.*


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## victorysign (Apr 22, 2008)

R1Lover said:


> I sunk my heat press into one of my work benches, I then drew lines on the table for each size shirt and a few extra for those odd shirts as well. When I layout the shirt I line it up with the lines on the table and of course the press is square with this as well. I then use a straight edge for vertical alignment. They come out just about perfect, but no two shirts are exact anyway so it's close enough to perfect.


What a GREAT idea! I too would love to see pictures!


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Here are the pictures requested.

































You can see the laser I use on this one to line up left to right.  









wormil said:


> You will be my hero if you post some pictures of this.


OK 

This is my first press so I only have an 11x15, but I have a feeling I will be upgrading soon. When I made this setup I allowed for a 16x20 as well.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

A couple more


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## Progeny (Jul 28, 2007)

I wish someone would make a flat t-shirt shaped platen with short arms and a little neck to put the shirt on, then attach it too the press for pressing. 

I was thinking of getting one cut from perspex or similar smooth plastic that would take the heat.

Or does someone already do this.


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## bern (Feb 14, 2007)

Well done on that sunken press setup , great job . Using the laser alighnment is a great touch . I have been thinking of different ways also to make things easier but they are still only ideas with me . So it is great to see somebody who has put some thought into it and actually built a setup . You are officially a handyman guru .


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## reginammp62 (Jul 4, 2008)

R1Lover said:


> I sunk my heat press into one of my work benches, I then drew lines on the table for each size shirt and a few extra for those odd shirts as well. When I layout the shirt I line it up with the lines on the table and of course the press is square with this as well. I then use a straight edge for vertical alignment. They come out just about perfect, but no two shirts are exact anyway so it's close enough to perfect.


that's a cool idea to sink the machine into the workbench. Do you ever run into problems where you can't do a transfer in a certain an item due to the way the machine is positioned? I'm sure people do other things that t-shirts. Just curious.
-regina


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

reginammp62 said:


> that's a cool idea to sink the machine into the workbench. Do you ever run into problems where you can't do a transfer in a certain an item due to the way the machine is positioned? I'm sure people do other things that t-shirts. Just curious.
> -regina


Thanks everyone, to answer your question - I haven't ran into anything yet and can't think of anything that would not fit so far. If I do I can always remove two bolts and pick up the press out of the table. 

The laser is great as well for lining up multiple images on the same sheet.


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## billm75 (Feb 15, 2007)

I had thought of doing something real similar to this with my press, when/if I finally get my shop completed.

But I wasn't going to have the table wrap around the press, like you've done, I was only going to give it "wings" to either side for alignment. My only concern is reaching it with the table space in front of the press. Does that cause you any problems or at the very least, sore backs?  

Great job on that, and I think it looks great!


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Ya after about 50 shirts front and back my back was a little sore, but I think that is more from not using those muscles normally and after you get used to using them it's all good. When I get the 16x20 it will take up most of the space in the front though.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

I have a feeling there will be a small spike in laser level sales this weekend. The best ideas are always obvious once you see them. Well done.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

lol I think your right, to be honest I received this one over a year ago and never used it. I have a better one I use for other things, so this one was just sitting. I found a good use for it.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

R1Lover said:


> lol I think your right, to be honest I received this one over a year ago and never used it. I have a better one I use for other things, so this one was just sitting. I found a good use for it.


AWESOME set up!!!!!

Ok.....where can I get that laser thingy???

...and how much does it cost???


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

R1Lover said:


> I sunk my heat press into one of my work benches, I then drew lines on the table for each size shirt and a few extra for those odd shirts as well. When I layout the shirt I line it up with the lines on the table and of course the press is square with this as well. I then use a straight edge for vertical alignment. They come out just about perfect, but no two shirts are exact anyway so it's close enough to perfect.


That's fantabulous!


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

wow Thanks for sharing the pics. I think this was very innovative. .... JB


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Thanks everyone. 

Here is an image of the laser level I'm using and also a link to it. It's only 20.00 right now as it looks to be on sale too.  










LINK


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## spankthafunk (Apr 9, 2007)

great post!

that'd be sweet if you could give it some sort of crank shaft or hydraulic so that you could raise and lower the platen with a foot pedal or some kind of knob. maybe something like a desk chair that moves up and down? then it wouldnt matter what substrate you were printing on, you could raise and lower it to meet your needs.


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## franzzz1 (Jul 7, 2008)

Now you're thinking like an engineer, not a t-shirt printer...That is actually called recycling,making good use of something that would normally be tossed out. GREAT idea.


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## spankthafunk (Apr 9, 2007)

franzzz1 said:


> Now you're thinking like an engineer, not a t-shirt printer...That is actually called recycling,making good use of something that would normally be tossed out. GREAT idea.


haha well anything that makes my job easier is fine by me! I am truly amazed at some of the talent on this board and some of the things people have come up with, such as this. I meant to post my exposure unit/work table last night and forgot to. I'll get that up today. . .


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

I read this thread earlier and thought it was a good idea. Problem is I move my press around. Solution and expansion on a great idea. Make it so it is a standalone piece that fits around the press snugly and then put like 1/2" stripes on the extensions and they change color like banding as they get further away from the platen of my heat press. I really like the laser guide down the center. Don't know if that could be improved on. Maybe a multi color laser so it doesn't get lost on a red shirt ?


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

Good point on the red shirts.... it does show up though, just not as much contrast. I just bought another one too for the horizontal alignment for larger orders, this way there is no guess work, set the shirt setup the lasers once and that's it. 

I have a new press coming soon so I will have to make some adjustments to this setup, but will post up when I do.


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## stuffnthingz (Oct 1, 2007)

love the lines on the table idea. I have my press bolted to a small table that has wheels. Now I am thinking I could get two hinged table extensions like the ones sold at camping world for RVs and I can bolt a vertical board on each side to mount these on. Oooo, now my brain is going into overdrive. I see a weekend project coming up. Thanks all!

Right now for centering I use the Tsquareit which works dandy, but I think the lines on the table could speed up larger jobs and the laser level is just awesome. Very clever people post on this board!


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I do the centerline on the tee during the moisture removal and just fold and pinch the transfers. It really is so simple and fast.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I do the centerline on the tee during the moisture removal and just fold and pinch the transfers. It really is so simple and fast.


That's a nice trick as well, Trying to use a square just takes too much time imo, it's much faster with some guidance lines or a centerline.


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

Actually, guidance lines AND the laser center line. The laser is to help with locating the transfer so you can press it repeatedly in the same spot or just to locate them to start with. I also like the idea of a second one perpendicular to the center one.


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Guys, But when you prepress the center line is gone,, from prepressing, Please tell me your trick, 
Thanks
Sandy Jo


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

The laser will return in the same position as soon as you open the press up Repeatable and accuracy.


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

DTFuqua said:


> Actually, guidance lines AND the laser center line. The laser is to help with locating the transfer so you can press it repeatedly in the same spot or just to locate them to start with. I also like the idea of a second one perpendicular to the center one.


I use it for both single shirts and larger orders, it's more helpful on doing more then one shirts so you know for sure they are all the same. 

I am adding a second one as well.


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

Today has been a good day. I learned about a new direction that will ultimately be the best way I can see to line things up short of having a robot do it for you. Thank you all.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sjidohair said:


> Guys, But when you prepress the center line is gone,, from prepressing, Please tell me your trick,
> Thanks
> Sandy Jo


I guess you would press the center line in and pre-press at the same time?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> I guess you would press the center line in and pre-press at the same time?


That's what I was imagining, too. Fold in half and pre-press... ??


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Yes, especially the whites...just press the centerline when doing your pre-press. My black shirts tend to hold a ton of moisture here in Houston. I will sometimes do a quick moisture press and then the cernterline press.


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

thanks david,,

sandy Jo


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

bogie said:


> Design Tip:
> 
> Design your stuff so that it doesn't have to be perfectly straight - Put text at angles, curve it, etc...
> 
> This is easy to do with plastisols, but a PITA for printed xfers...


Most jobs are not designer type of tees they are designs for schools and businesses and organizations. They require you to place the designs squarely and centered.


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## gulfcoastcajun (Jul 13, 2019)

You should make them... I'd buy one..


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## JynxDezyns (Mar 7, 2019)

I use a very simple method using a set square against the side of the platten. I've marked one arm of the set square it in the middle to denote the centre of the platten and i've also made another mark on the other arm of the set square that I align with the bottom of the platten which then gives me the correct distance from the collar.

Every design I do I create a 1mm thick box around the design which also functions as the weeding box. I then make a 1mm gap in that box top & bottom at dead centre and also top & bottom at each end. I leave weeding of the box until last but before I remove it I place a black dot with a sharpie on the back of the vinyl backing in each of the 1mm gaps in the box. I then use these dots to align the vinyl with my set square. This method overcomes the issues with vinyl edges that aren't cut to square and also designs that have nothing to use for alignment within them. It also, in some circumstances, facilitates alignment of different colours of vinyl that aren't layered so that they can be aligned with each other and pressed at the same time.


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