# Marks on moisture wick, left from heat press



## bonkrat (Oct 22, 2010)

I recently pressed some plastisol transfers onto columbia blue, 100% polyester moisture wick shirts. I used a pad (to avoid buttons) and covered with a teflon sheet. I pre-pressed a few seconds to get rid of wrinkles, and followed pressing directions exacty (time, temp, pressure). There is a lighter "box", or "sheen" where the pad was. I called the transfer company and they told me that this should "shake out" after washing. The customer claims that it has not, and when the shirts get wet, (baseball rainout), the mark is very evident. Would it be possible to re-press the entire shirt to make it more even? If so, how do I avoid the buttons? The shirt is a 2-button baseball jersey. The customer is asking for new jerseys - although he wants a different color, and a slightly different design on the front. Not sure if he's just being picky because he didn't order what he wanted the first time, or if the marks are really that bad.


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## franktheprinter (Oct 5, 2008)

bonkrat said:


> I recently pressed some plastisol transfers onto columbia blue, 100% polyester moisture wick shirts. I used a pad (to avoid buttons) and covered with a teflon sheet. I pre-pressed a few seconds to get rid of wrinkles, and followed pressing directions exacty (time, temp, pressure). There is a lighter "box", or "sheen" where the pad was. I called the transfer company and they told me that this should "shake out" after washing. The customer claims that it has not, and when the shirts get wet, (baseball rainout), the mark is very evident. Would it be possible to re-press the entire shirt to make it more even? If so, how do I avoid the buttons? The shirt is a 2-button baseball jersey. The customer is asking for new jerseys - although he wants a different color, and a slightly different design on the front. Not sure if he's just being picky because he didn't order what he wanted the first time, or if the marks are really that bad.


Hmmmm....i would try afew things...first when you prepressed did you get that "sheen" (the teflon sheet itself can leave a light box around certain fabrics...i would try pressing using your method but without applying a transfer to see if its the teflon sheeting) Also, are you applying a plastisol transfer?
because digital transfers will definitely leave a "box"
where applied. I definitely would print/wash test one to see
for yourself what your customer is seeing before
determining if he's being overly picky....if you are able to contact the garmet supplier i'd ask them if the garmet is a "printable" garmet (some sport garmets are treated chemically for added resistance
to wear and those can negatively affect your print)


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## bonkrat (Oct 22, 2010)

I pre-pressed the shirt (from Augusta) using the teflon sheet and no pad underneath. When I pressed the plastisol transfer on, I used the pad and teflon. The "box" is from the pad - there was no sheen until I pressed the transfer. I adjusted the pressure when I added the pad, but maybe I needed to reduce the pressure even more? Any thoughts on pressing the entire shirt again to possibly "even out" the mark?? I honestly didn't notice the flaw until customer pointed it out to me. I will replace the shirts, if needed, but wondered if there is any way to save them. Thanks so much for your help!


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## Heatpressinc (May 19, 2012)

Can you send pictures? You can get custom silicon pads the size of your transfer so the rest of the garment won't get hit because it will be below the heat. If you have a 15x15 heat press take out the lower 15x15 pad and you can get a 10x10 silicon pad so it will only press in the 10x10 area that is raised to the heat platen.


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

What supplier did the transfer come from?.....What temperature did you press at?...Different suppliers have transfers that apply at higher or lower temperatures....


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## Hegemone (Oct 18, 2011)

This a well known issue and cannot be avoided all you can really hope to do is limit the amount of the shirt that makes contact with the press. Transfers require a level of heat that slightly melts the fibers and presses them flat. Hence the sheen. You would have to make sure your plastisol is a low temp athletic ink made especially for poly. The lower the temp and the lower the pressure required the better. On this job I would say your outta luck. You will likely need to give a discount or offer to redo the shirts correctly a discount would likely cost you the least amount. It's too bad that the representative told you that that kind of mark would shake out. I am yet to see that after a full Polly is marked. 

I personally would have pressed one. Saw the mark and tried to wash it to see for myself. Then I would have explained the situation to the client so they knew that what they were getting had that and that it wasn't a surprise to them. If they said no then you send back all the transfer and demand your money back. If the client accepts or accepts with a discount your still ahead of the game if your margins were decent. Sometimes you have to be humble and admit what is beyond your current capabilities and either farm the work or help the client find an alternative solution.

If your supplier said they were good for full poly and you followed their instructions I would ask for your money back. They will likely say they won't do anything since you already pressed them all. But you owe it to yourself to ask. Also avoid doing biz with them again if they aren't being honest or helpful.

My two cents toss them in a well and make a wish.


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## bonkrat (Oct 22, 2010)

Thanks everyone. I got the transfers from Transfer Express, and I did let them know the shirt color and type of fabric when I ordered. I pressed according to instructions ( 5 seconds at 350, I beieve).I was told this would "shake out 9 times out of ten" - guess I was lucky 10! The rep did tell me to try lowering the temp next time. I'll chalk this one up to inexperience. I guess I thought the mark would fade as it cooled, like it does w/ heat curing when I screenprint.
I am having new shirts reprinted, and the players on the team want to buy the first ones at a discounted price, (so they must not have been toooo bad). I won't make much, but won't really be losing anything but time. Thanks again for your help!


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## royster13 (Aug 14, 2007)

Plastisol transfers from F&M Expressions apply at 325 degrees....Also, some moisture wicking fabrics have a chemical treatment applied which can mess with heat pressing.....


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

What Mikel said. Once you get the shiny spots on poly they won't come out, pressing twice or ironing only make them worse. IIRC, TE told me at the ISS show that they recommend dropping the temp (325) and doubling the time (10 sec) for poly. It's the heat combined with pressure that cause it, but mostly heat.


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## jamerican352005 (Nov 1, 2008)

I had a customer have the same problem today. The high temps will damage 100% polyester. No way around that.....but today I got an idea and tried something. I grabbed a piece of cardboard and cut it slightly smaller than the size of the transfer. I grabbed a couple of messed up sweatshirts and wrapped it around the cardboard. I then placed this inside the garment in the exact location where the transfer would go. I wrapped the extra fabric around and behind the cardboard. Now the only fabric exposed is the print area. Place the transfer on the garment and print. The polyester is not scorched because none of it will touch the heated plate on your press! It is very important to make sure you wrap the cardboard. If you do not the cardboard will leave an impression in the plastisol. It is also important to make sure plenty of the transfer paper is longer than the folded garment. This will ensure that even when you press the garment it is still covered. I really hope this helps!


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## jamerican352005 (Nov 1, 2008)

Which hope it helps for the next job. I realize it doesn't help the current situation. My customer pressed the transfer at a lower temp then used Teflon to try to print longer without damaging the garment. The sheen from the Teflon was left on the shirt.


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## bachi123 (Sep 9, 2015)

what can you heat press and not leave any marks? Adidas says they recommend pressing at 302F. What product is out there that you won't (BURN) (SHEEN) (COOK) your shirts?


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## Tenback (Jan 9, 2016)

I know this is old, but I use a very low tech solution. I take a piece of embroidery backing (like you would use on a stretchy polo) and I make what was known back in the day as a pressing cloth... I put it over the transfer right before I lower the lid. It seems to help. Glad I paid attention to my grandma and mom when they were ironing....


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## UGTTABLV (Jan 19, 2016)

I'm having this problem right now with anything I hit on an order of Under Armour gear  I even bought a rubber Flexible Application Pad from Stahls and it STILL leaves the mark. I just don't know what to do.


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## bachi123 (Sep 9, 2015)

I found the solution, just press at lower temperature for longer times. Do not go over 250 degrees trust me it works. seems like everyone in this business are idiots. They have no idea about ruining shirts. So take my word, do not go over 250. Take your time and re press if needed, re pressing won't hurt.


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## danielbaker1 (Jan 20, 2016)

bachi123 said:


> I found the solution, just press at lower temperature for longer times. Do not go over 250 degrees trust me it works. seems like everyone in this business are idiots. They have no idea about ruining shirts. So take my word, do not go over 250. Take your time and re press if needed, re pressing won't hurt.


Hi Mike, How may seconds are you pressing at 250?

Thanks


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## Stefano (Aug 5, 2013)

bachi123 said:


> what can you heat press and not leave any marks? Adidas says they recommend pressing at 302F. What product is out there that you won't (BURN) (SHEEN) (COOK) your shirts?


Stahl's Premium Plus vinyl is stretchy and they claim you can apply it at 280 degrees. I'm putting that claim to the test this week.

Transfer Express has a print called Elastiprint that presses at 275 degrees.
See: http://www.stahlstv.com/transfer-express-five-market-ideas-to-grow-t-shirt

I would call then and say they should have recommended the Elastiprint formula when you told them what you were pressing. Then and ask for replacement transfers. It sounds like they gave you the Goof-Proof formulation.

So here's a question. You can't press 100% polyester at more than say, 320 degrees. Sublimation can be done only on polyester garments and requires about 390 degrees at 40 seconds or so. How does that work out? A glossy design from the melted polyester?


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## bachi123 (Sep 9, 2015)

Why would you press at temperatures over 300? That is asinine! Get with the program people.


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## Stefano (Aug 5, 2013)

bachi123 said:


> Why would you press at temperatures over 300? That is asinine! Get with the program people.


Uh, maybe because the formula you are using SPECIFIES a certain temperature? Or maybe you're sublimating a garment and the ink won't turn to gas at 300 degrees?


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

I use quite a lot of premium plus. I have good luck with it but I always post-press the white. I use it for name and numbers on cotton garments and do 330 for 12 seconds. With the colors I don't have to post-press, but when you do the white ensure it's not a "Hot" peel - let it cool for a couple seconds. With any of the other colors I can cleanly pull the carrier right off after press. I like it because it has a very soft hand and is stretchable.


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