# NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98



## T-BOT

hey members, I thought i would share the news with you that is a New Transfer Paper for Color Lazer copy machines and Lazer Printers going to enter the market in the near future, or it may already have.

The owner of the company has informed us that with this new Transfer Paper Media it will print on shirts with no-need to cut around and delivers great results. 

I will be getting some samples this coming week myself.

Its about time.  

the company is:

AutoART Color Solutions Inc
Tel: 1.800.471-7103
647-724-4403 Toronto
716-304-1086 Niagara Falls / Buffalo NY
Website: www.autoart.ca, www.autoartusa.com


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

*Update on the NEW Duracotton 98 Transfer Paper.*


money back guarantee.  










my samples should be here anytime.  

more info: http://www.autoart.ca/


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## polomac

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

The old paper for fuser oil is still in the market. I tryed the paper and there is a palemer around the image.I did have to cut it is not like image clip. The new paper is like the old paper for the new laser printer with higher heat.you have to test it.
I'm suppose to receive some test samples of the new paper when it comes out.I've been waiting 7 monthes for the paper to come out and it's still in it's test process. Can't wait to try the new paper.


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## SciFiBri

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Hi
I talked to Ken Black, at AutoArt (the suppliers) and he gave me some more info. The new paper is an improvement so it is said, although I never used the old stuff. I have pressed an image he sent to me, will do a wash test tomorrow. As well, there will be a duradark paper, works the same, and a printing system for using white toner is being developed. The system requires two laser printers, one color and the other mono (the black toner in this one being replaced by white). I suppose the transfers are run through first one and then the other before pressing.
So, it might end up that we can use a system on dark items as well.
I have been using a Miracool paper with inkjet, and the idea for the duracotton is supposed to be the same: the toner/ink is put into the cotton, not just on top. It's not sublimation exactly since that involves the inks becoming a gas and then solid again - but the basic concept appears the same, to come close to sublimation on a natural fiber. And, the carrier is not very visible.
If I hear more, I'll report on it.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Still waiting for the samples too.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

...wow, 
Ken, the owner of the company delieved the sample transfer media paper to our Dowtown Toronto location. Same day delivery WITHIN 3 HOURS, thats great service.  ...i dont think its because Lucy wants to try the paper. lol

However, i will not see it untill tomorrow because im not in Toronto, one of the girls is coming over (150 km away) and she'll bring it with her for me. Nice Eh!  

can't wait to try it..... no trimming involved. I have to see it to believe it.


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## printchic

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

The America side of AutoArt can be found at;

http://www.autoartusa.com/

They have been supposed to release dark transfer paper for years....
http://www.autoartusa.com/Invisible_AutoART_DuraCotton_98/Transfer_to_Dark.html

Here's hoping they do this time i'm sure it would be a boost to those that use transfer paper.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

...just tested the transfer paper by drawing some lines with a Sharpie marker and heat pressed it on to 100% cotton jersey fabric. No trimming around the lines at all, applied the entire 8x11 sheet on the shirt. iT looks ok and feels soft. 
Need to test it with a lazer home printer. Will wash test it all later. 
So far so good.


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## incunabula

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

There was no outline at all?? It is hard for me to see the edges, photo is cropped a little tight for a whole sheet.
Is this stuff for real?!?!?! Anyone recommend a good laser? 
Thanks T-BOT


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## taurusndixie

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

T-Bot,
Can't wait to see your finished test on this new paper.
Thanks for keeping us informed.

I have emailed them for samples of this cotton transfer paper with no luck yet.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

hi guys, sorry about the cropped photo, here is another: 











so i purchase a New Laser Printer off the shelf yesterday at the Future Shop.

the sales guy there was extremely helpful.  

i got a HP LajerJet 2600n ($360 CND), its kind of big for my little desk though. Its working fine but im scared to try this new paper....(heard stories that the paper may stick to the inside of the printer and that will be the end of the printer  ).... 

i will try to build up my nerve. 

Any tips before i try it ?


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## binki

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



T-BOT said:


> i will try to build up my nerve.
> 
> Any tips before i try it ?


a prayer to the laser printer gods might help.  

From reading their web site the paper may jam when the printer is hot. One copy shouln't cause too much heat.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

ok, i prayed, closed my eyes and clicked Print. 

I loaded 2 sample sheets, printed 2 transfers, looks great. There was just a little black smuge on the graphic. Du-no why?

below shows a paper print on the left and the transfer on the right.


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## capecodcamper

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Did you ever get your samples? I am interested in laser transfer papers


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## incunabula

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Nice big pic of the printed shirt.. looks like the outline of the 8.5x11 paper can still be seen.. or are those straight lines from the heatpress? have you washed it yet? 

FYI from the autoart website:

 Printers tested include: HP 2550, HP 4500, Oki 3100, Alps, Minolta 24xx, Minolta 61xx, Tally 8006e, Tally 8008, Lexmark C510, Lexmark C720


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



incunabula said:


> Nice big pic of the printed shirt.. looks like the outline of the 8.5x11 paper can still be seen.. or are those straight lines from the heatpress? have you washed it yet?
> 
> FYI from the autoart website:
> 
> Printers tested include: HP 2550, HP 4500, Oki 3100, Alps, Minolta 24xx, Minolta 61xx, Tally 8006e, Tally 8008, Lexmark C510, Lexmark C720


will do all the washing later, still playing around with the off the shelf printer (its not on the list. ). 

...no trimming and looks a lot better than i thought it would. Can't really see the outline of the paper, you can sorta see where the rectangular paper pressed but im sure if i re-press it the wrinkles will go away. 

...i used a sample white scrap t-shirt and im not being too delicate with the testy-testy.  ...... can you imagine if the feel/look of it got better with every wash ?

... it feels great btw. Good job Ken.


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## incunabula

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

So there is no hand at all? I am still a little fuzzy on whether the dye is absorbed into the fabric or sits on top.

How is the washing? The site says that film/polymer will go away after the first wash,
"No unsightly cloudy transfer film nor polymer to scissor cut away, *wash away*." Can't wait to see it out of the dryer Maybe you could put a flashlight in between the shirt layers and take a pic or even just separate the shirt's front and back a few inches. 

Could this be the alternative to water-based screenprinting and curing.. and without the cleanup? Fingers crossed


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## taurusndixie

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

OK people, I am very confused here. Just received a email from bestimagesolutions.com
The dura cotton paper was discontinued in Jan. 2005.


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## studio67designs

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Hi T-Bot, 

I have been testing this paper for the last few months, and also had the opportunity to test the latest DuraCotton98 samples that Ken fowarded to me. 

With some tweaking of heat settings and pressure & dwell times, you can get some excellent results....The polymer outline should hardly if any be visible. 

I have been using this product with my sublimation set up and a high release paper with no problems - im getting very nice results....

The ' hand ' is soft even better after a cuples of washes. 


Cheers,

Nick


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

hi Nick,
nice so far, I've been printing them off my new off the shelf printer and ALSO printed them off a XEROX copy machine. So far they look good. No paper jams. 

I will be printing the transfers on cotton fabric soon. (kinda busy with some big plastisol jobs right now).

....like i said, i know verry little about digital transfers so im doing this from a Newbie stand, thats for sure.  

my boss had a look at my little test samples and he tells me that its amazing how only the ink goes on the shirt, no trimming. Well, he did look at it with a magnify glass and did see something there but i can't tell. 

Remember, my boss was making CLC transfers before it became a big buisness...in the early 90's, i was only a baby...lol. 

Here are some transfer ART/experiments he was involved with that sell for $ 40,000 each. :::: http://www.neonravenartgallery.com/carl/carl.html

will post as i do more print testing, washing etc.


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## Solmu

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



taurusndixie said:


> OK people, I am very confused here. Just received a email from bestimagesolutions.com
> The dura cotton paper was discontinued in Jan. 2005.


Having _Lake House_ flashbacks?


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## polomac

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

The paper wasn't dicountinued in jan 2005. Certain dealer weren't able to carry it.The old paper was for fuser oil copiers laser printers.The new paper if for none fuser oil copier printers laser.The only people that carry it you will find in the durocotton web page.U.S and Canadian dealers.Like any p[aper you will have to test it for the right setting i your printer and press.


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## taurusndixie

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Thanks for clearing that up. Still having trouble getting samples.

I have a epson c88, oki 3200, hp 4550n and a Alps. 
It would be SOOOO nice to have one paper fit all.

Thanks


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## SciFiBri

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Hello - thought that I would weigh in quickly;
I am printing up an order with the sheets, have been experimenting with settings, etc. Using an Oki 3200. Paper feeds in the multi-tray, normal settings, color looks great. Pressing at about 405 degrees, med-heavy pressure, for about 15 secs. too much hotter or longer and scorching is an issue. I had been having trouble peeling, but the higher temp solved that. The images look great, I have washed a test shirt twice and there is little fading. It works great! Good luck everyone!!


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## incunabula

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Thanks for the info SciFi.
Please let us know if you have had to trim your designs or found any white outlines where you didn't trim? Was there any visible white polymer transfer at all?
My sample is on the way.


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## badalou

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

I received some test paper yesterday and I think I could do a video on this as well. Interested? I don't have a laser printer but a friend does and I will go over with some designs and give it a try. I thought while I am at it I might as well video it. If it works I will be looking for a laser printer..


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## taurusndixie

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

T-BOT,
You use a wide format copier for transfers, right ? 
I have no idea of the quality using this method, especially photos. 
I need a wider print capability than a small sheet of regular paper. 
With all the options in printers today for transfers would you recommend I buy a new CLC for transfers, hats, cups,..etc.. or another printer ? How does the CLC compare with inkjets, laser dye sub toner for color ?

Which gives a better result, cotton, 50/50, or polyester with the CLC.
Looking forward to seeing your finished results using the dura cotton paper.

Thanks,

Don


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



taurusndixie said:


> T-BOT,
> You use a wide format copier for transfers, right ?
> I have no idea of the quality using this method, especially photos.
> I need a wider print capability than a small sheet of regular paper.
> With all the options in printers today for transfers would you recommend I buy a new CLC for transfers, hats, cups,..etc.. or another printer ? How does the CLC compare with inkjets, laser dye sub toner for color ?
> 
> Which gives a better result, cotton, 50/50, or polyester with the CLC.
> Looking forward to seeing your finished results using the dura cotton paper.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Don


Hi Don, 
In the past, we have only used CLC machines to make digital transfers, never used anything else like bubble jets etc. 

In the mid 90's we used a Kodak CLC with 11x17 Photo-Trans paper, made these by the truck load and yes need to trim the transfers before application.

Today, we use a Xerox CLC machine and 11x17 Xerox Transfer Paper, much like the Photo-Transfer paper.

We mainly make plastisol transfers. We use CLC transfers on 100% and Cotton/Poly blend T-Shirts etc. Mainly. They do print on other surfaces, plexi glass, cardboard etc....need to trim them.

Never had any major complaints with these CLC Transfers printed on shirts. Of couse they need to be treated more delicate in the wash (when not using opaque backings) than screen printed plastisol transfers.

As for the CLC finish, its great. Hi detail, good color etc... Xerox CLC are very good machines.

As for the NEW Dura-cotton paper, will be doing more testing.


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## binki

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

We ordered some of this paper to try out. Hopefully we can get some results posted as well. There seems to be a backlog of orders. Lucy started a landslide and they can't keep up!


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## jhughes656

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Will this type of paper work with only lazer printers? I am just startying out and bought a epson with duribrite ink. Will this ink work?
thanks
Jeff


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## binki

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

This is a laser printer paper.


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## periscope

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

I have been using a form of Duracotton paper ever since it came out several years ago. Duracotton 98 is by far the best so far. It can be used in any colour laser printer or copier, oil or oilless. Ken sent me some samples to try. I have a Lexmark C510 and it prints beautifully when set to Glossy mode. I understand other printer/copiers work well in Plain Paper setting. I use a Lancer pneumatic heat press set at 400 degrees, 70 lb pressure (med to heavy) and press for 14 sec. Peel right away. Ken had suggested less time (9 sec) but my press needed 14 sec. I pressed again with the teflon sheet for 10 sec as he suggested. There is no hand at all. I have washed a couple t-shirts a few times and the colours are still as sharp as the day I pressed them. I understand the paper will be available for sale shortly.

Don't be confused with Duracotton PRO. This is a previous effort meant for oil based older printers. It also can be used as a base for dye sub transfers imprinted to 100% cotton and it does a reasonable job in this application. I have experienced some initial "hand" but it softens up after a few washes. 

Ed
Periscope Promotions Inc.


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## bac

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

ThanX for the info, Ed. What about cutting around the image? Does a square patern show around the image if you do not cut around the art? It sounds like a great option for digital transfers.

... Brad


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## periscope

There is no need to cut around the edge at all. Just press and peel. You don't see anything other than the image itself.


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## incunabula

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Nice Ed. 

Well, we got a sliver of the new paper to test. 

Using Ed's tips the results have been impressive, though not perfect.

Was hoping for absolutely no white paper transfer. I have yet to achieve this.

Tried to take some pics, but no white borders could be seen. 

Hand is very slight.

Overall, a better alternative than Iron-All paper.

Is it worth investing in a color laser? For me it was.

G


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## Urban Project

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Does not make sense if the paper will jam when the printer is hot. Are we expected to do small jobs only.

So I understand some of the posts, this type of paper when pressed on will on press the design. So does this mean that all other types press the entire sheet.


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## mrstitch

Yesterday, I purchased the OKI 5400.
The resolution is great and it printed beautifully until I printed a transjet II paper in it and destroyed the fuser by melting the paper to it. 

I called OKI, told them the story and they're sending me a new fuser at no charge. Great service and the call center's in New Jersey and open on Saturday.

Well, I check the DuraCotton 98 (forgot company's name) website and they tested an OKI 5300 and said it doesn't work with their paper. Has anyone used the DuraCotton 98 on an OKI 5400? 

Thanks

Dean


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## binki

We received our paper and tried it out with a Minolta 3300 Magicolor and the results were pretty good. We pressed for 15 seconds at 400, waited a few seconds, peeled and repressed with a teflon sheet for about 10 seconds and peeled right away. 

Next up will be a wash test.


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## periscope

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

He is talking about a previous version of Duracotton. Duracotton 98 is new and on the market. I am having great results with it.


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## binki

I just tried out this paper as a pre-treatment to a dyesub transfer and the results are pretty good. I pressed the blank duracotton98 paper for 12 seconds at 385F and hot-peeled. 

I let the garment cool down and placed the dyesub transfer down, parchment paper and teflon and pressed for 45 seconds at 385F. There was a slight hand so I placed a teflon sheet on the image and pressed again for 5 seconds and hot-peeled and the image looks pretty good. 

I compared it to a dyesub on another 50/50 shirt and the results are a lot better. 

We did a wash test on our first transfer with the duracotton98 and there was no noticeable loss in color. 

This is really an outstanding product and is very versatile. I spoke with the distributor at length and he was telling me to try it out on wood. I have a wood plaque that I need to do, rather about 50 of them, so I will try it out and see how it comes out. Just a part of the never ending fun of printing on just about everything.


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## oldscot

What brand and model of laser printer are you using? Would be interested to know the wash results after about 10 washings.. I have also been testing the paper that was sent to me by Autoart (they have been great in their support ) Unforturately I have not had good wash results using a Minolta 2300DL altho I understand that a revised paper will have better wash results. with this and similiar models Thanks


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## cprvh

I would be careful about using any prep sheet for dye sub. All that I have tried have bled over time. It is always the magenta that is the culprit. Do some tests before commiting to any large jobs that could come back to haunt you.


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## T-BOT

quick note

hey everyone, im still on it with my tests. Its been crazy busy around here trying to get jobs out the door. Sorry.  

Im also trying to get my boss involved with these tests, but he is 150 km away at the shop.

Looks like this week comming we will be printing the home off the shelf lazer printer samples and the xerox copier samples on 100% cotton fabric.

Im learning alot about it, thanks.


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## mrstitch

oldscot said:


> What brand and model of laser printer are you using? Would be interested to know the wash results after about 10 washings.. I have also been testing the paper that was sent to me by Autoart (they have been great in their support ) Unforturately I have not had good wash results using a Minolta 2300DL altho I understand that a revised paper will have better wash results. with this and similiar models Thanks


I have the OKI 5400 and am still waiting for the Duracotton Paper. I think its a bit risky running it through the OKI, due to the heat of the fuser, but we'll see.


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## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



periscope said:


> I use a Lancer pneumatic heat press set at 400 degrees, 70 lb pressure (med to heavy) and press for 14 sec. Peel right away. Ken had suggested less time (9 sec) but my press needed 14 sec. I pressed again with the teflon sheet for 10 sec as he suggested. There is no hand at all. I have washed a couple t-shirts a few times and the colours are still as sharp as the day I pressed them.
> 
> Ed
> Periscope Promotions Inc.


..thanks for the settings info Ed.  I will try that.


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## ptsea

Hi all,

I am new to this T-Shirt transfer thing. I got quite a lot of sample transfer papers from various sources and the problem is that I can't don't really know where they came from. 

I am wondering if I have this DuraCotton 98 paper in my stack of papers. How can I identify this paper from other transfer paper ? Do the Autoart papers have some sort of marking at the backside ?

Also, I am looking for a laser paper for dark garments. Anyone have any recommendations ? I got this wierd dark paper with only a red and blue line going down through the center. Anyone knows where it comes from ?

Many Thanks
Jay


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## binki

I am using the minolta 3300 magicolor. We did have some paper jams from the upper tray. I haven't washed any of the shirts yet. The results are pretty good so far.


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## mrstitch

There aren't any markings on the back, but the front is bright and glossy like photo paper


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## mrstitch

I received the paper today and although the hand is nice, the colors, once pressed, came out muddy and not true. I believe this relates to my printer and not the paper as the pre-printed sample pressed well.

Does anyone use an OKI and could they suggest the settings used? I used the defaults settings.

Thanks


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## cprvh

I have an OKI 3200 which I have tried this paper in. The 3200 (all OKI's according to AutoArt) did not worked well with this paper. It is just the printer paper combo. The OKI's do not like glossy papers. They lay down stray toner on glossy papers. Any unprinted area of my test transfers were discolored. Ken @ AutoArt said he was working with OKI to develop a new print driver that would hopefully correct this problem. I think this is why the colors were not as bright as expected.


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## edwin 98

I am using a OKI 3200 and have printed and pressed 50 shirts without a problem. You must use the MP tray with Thick(heavy) paper setting. You are right the OKI does not like glossy paper unless you use the straight paper path.


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## periscope

AutoART has recgonized that Duracotton 98 may not work in the high temp (OKI and KM) printers and is developing a new paper just for these printers. It should be out in a few weeks.


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## edwin 98

Ed: I am sorry but the OKI 3200 in not a high temp fuser. It works fine if you remember to use the MP tray and a Straight Through Print Path. The MP tray must be set for Thick paper (earlier models say Heavy paper) Also we have had customers run on the HP 3550 without problem. AutoArt knows about all this if you want to give Ken a call and verify this info please co so. I think he will explain it all at AutoArt U in Jan.

Edwin


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## mrstitch

edwin 98 said:


> Ed: I am sorry but the OKI 3200 in not a high temp fuser. It works fine if you remember to use the MP tray and a Straight Through Print Path. The MP tray must be set for Thick paper (earlier models say Heavy paper) Also we have had customers run on the HP 3550 without problem. AutoArt knows about all this if you want to give Ken a call and verify this info please co so. I think he will explain it all at AutoArt U in Jan.
> 
> Edwin



I'm sorry.What is the MP tray? Have you had to do any color correction using the driver? My prints come out too dark when pressed.

Dean


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## binki

We use the Konica Minolta 3300 Magicolor and had a paper jam using the mp tray. I went back to the bulk feeder and it worked ok but I had a mess to clean up. 

Has anyone been able to get large format paper? 8.5X11 only goes so far.


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## edcruz

anybody knows how much is 1 piece of duracotton98 a4/a3 in your place ?


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## edwin 98

All DuraCotton 98 Pricing and information for the US is at www.dye-namic.com

Edwin


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## edcruz

ok thx Edwin~


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## steelpig

Hi folks, here in Cape Forgotten in the land Downunder, we cannot get a sample of this duracotton 98 for love nor money! We are relying on your good selves to test this product thouroughly, so that we can either proceed to buy a laser printer, or go ahead and buy an inkjet. I do not think I am the only one waiting with baited breath.

Hoping like crazy that this thread has not dried up yet.

Thanks in advance. Steelpig, in limbo land.


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## T-BOT

Hey Piggy.

I think the peeps (including myself) are busy making sales now. Today was the highest retail sales ever for me.


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## steelpig

T-BOT said:


> Hey Piggy.
> 
> I think the peeps (including myself) are busy making sales now. Today was the highest retail sales ever for me.


Hey, good for you. I'm in celebration mode as well. Got the heat press today. I pressed my first t-shirt. A very detailed mandelbrot set with lots of colour graduations. It worked just fine. Ya-hoo! as you say over there. That's it for me for the day. Consider me drunk and out of touch for the next 12 hours.

Cheers, The bright and bold Pig of Steel.


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## Marion

Hello Modes

Just confirming that I have sent a few sample sheets of DuraCotton 98. I organised this with your partner yesterday. Would welcome your feedback once you receive them.

Marion, Magic Image Transfer.






steelpig said:


> Hi folks, here in Cape Forgotten in the land Downunder, we cannot get a sample of this duracotton 98 for love nor money! We are relying on your good selves to test this product thouroughly, so that we can either proceed to buy a laser printer, or go ahead and buy an inkjet. I do not think I am the only one waiting with baited breath.
> 
> Hoping like crazy that this thread has not dried up yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance. Steelpig, in limbo land.


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## T-BOT

FINALLY.  

Spent a few hrs in my CSI room (dont tell my boss), tried and tried and but it was terrible print results. I followed Eds settings, tried every setting between 375-to-400, 10-25 seconds, nothing worked. I emaild KEN autoArt for help, i thought for sure it was the printer. KEN tells me to try it at 410, i did, again bad results. It was printing but it was leaving a light grey all around the text design, it was visible and the entire printed sheet/design on the fabric felt rough. So, i though that my printer must be dirty or something. By now im down to my last 2 test sheets.

This can't be ???? everything was going wrong, even ran out of magenta tonner or something, because the print colors were comming out weird. So tried it in Black.

What else can i try ?, 

*I tried it at 350-360F, pre-pressed for 10 sec, pressed the transfer for 12 sec., waited 1.5 sec. as ken suggested and peel, ....... and it work*  . No further re-presses with teflon. Im using an old manual Basix Press. I printed it on an "aa" Fine jersey knit fabric (i ran out of fabric too). 

I must say that the print looks good and im proud of my self since I know nothing about Digital transfers. The print feels like nothing is there, the text design took up the lenght of the paper sheet but the top and bottom there is a lot of blank space, no cutting around. Will toss it in the wash/dry tonight.

note at the top left hand side of the image the 320 pen writting, see the grey around it ? thats what i was getting with the full sheets.

*Have a look at my first Duracotton 98 perfect transfer.*  ...im out of paper.  

I think like with any other paper, you need to find the right settings, and hope they stay the same on rainy days.  



:::::EDIT: can you see the photo ok? my screen is kind of pale.


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## wifey tees

T Bot or any other expert, I am considering the following two laser printers to be able to use with the Duracotton 98 paper. Can you tell me which you feel would be the better of the two?

http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=512300&N=265649&An=browse

http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=102380&N=265651&An=browse

Any advise above what you've already posted would be greatly appreciated. This is uncharted territory for me but my husband is excited to try this wonderful paper in his business!!

Thanks again,

Melissa


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## T-BOT

hi Melissa,
to be honest with you, no idea. Your best bet is to contact Ken the guy that invented this paper.

When i first heard about this paper, i was curious about it. Asked on the board for advice on what printer to buy, did not get a response. I was exited to try the paper, went to the Future Shop and purchased one off the shelf. It looks like the HP one you posted but i think its a different model. 

I really dont like it, its too big and noisy and it does not go with the decor.  

Also, im in the same boat as you, du-no much about digital transfers because i do not make too many these days. The guys at the shop have a Xerox Color Lazer copier, we use Xerox Transfer paper 11x17 and a No Name opaque backing material for darks. This machine is what we use to make digital transfer when we need to and also use it for other purposes, art print outs, films etc....

So, not much help. Sorry. 
Do contact Ken and perhaps get the One he uses, i think its a konic or something like that.

The transfer i did manage to make does look and feel good with no trimming. 

cheers.


----------



## wifey tees

Thanks for the quick reply. Does Ken post on this board? I skimmed back through this thread and didn't see anything that looked like a post from the inventor of the paper. Would you mind pointing me in the direction of an email for Ken or perhaps his screen name on the board so I can PM him?

Also, would you suggest using the laser printer manner to do images on mouse pads?

Thanks again for the help!!

Melissa


----------



## T-BOT

I dont think Ken is on the board, but this is his website: http://www.autoart.ca/

as for the using Color Laser Copier (CLC) Transfers for mouse pads, have not tried it with this paper nor have we made one in 5 years,  

but yes, back in the 90's we made them by the truck load around x-mas for a bunch of retail chains, we were like a photo developing hub type operation.  lol 

The retailers would take orders for the mouse pads, they would put the order in envelops (like the photo develop source out places.), the truck would drive around town and pick them up and deliver the next day...something like that. 

sorry for making this post all about me.......just had a dejavu.  

Yes, CLC transfer are/were ideal for mouse pads.

There is also a nice fellow here by the name of Josh that sells CLC paper I think. He may be a good resource too.  ....bestblanks.com may sell it too.


----------



## wifey tees

I've contacted Josh and visited his website but I don't see the Duracotton 98 available on his site. Does he sell it under another name or is it something I'll need to speak with him to purchase do you think?

Thanks for the tips. I owe you!!!


----------



## T-BOT

wifey tees said:


> I've contacted Josh and visited his website but I don't see the Duracotton 98 available on his site. Does he sell it under another name or is it something I'll need to speak with him to purchase do you think?
> 
> Thanks for the tips. I owe you!!!


Please Melissa, you owe me nothing.  
I dont know the details ???? you best ask him yourself.

cheers.


----------



## Mystic

wifey tees said:


> I've contacted Josh and visited his website but I don't see the Duracotton 98 available on his site. Does he sell it under another name or is it something I'll need to speak with him to purchase do you think?
> 
> Thanks for the tips. I owe you!!!


We contacted Paul at this website for our paper, http://www.dye-namic.com/, reached him by phone. Paul is great and got our order out the next day! 
Hope this helps.


----------



## edwin 98

To get DuraCotton 98 you have to go to either www.dye-namic.com or www.periscopepromotions.com/ They are resellers.

Edwin


----------



## steelpig

Marion said:


> Hello Modes
> 
> Just confirming that I have sent a few sample sheets of DuraCotton 98. I organised this with your partner yesterday. Would welcome your feedback once you receive them.
> 
> Marion, Magic Image Transfer.


Hi Marion, welcome aboard. Testing like mad up here. Having some stupendous failures, (our silly mistakes), and some great results. No blank bit of cotton material is safe in this house. Looking forward to receiving the samples you sent, and will post results in this forum. (Cheaper than phoning Melbourne!) Ain't technology grand!

Cheers, Modes


----------



## steelpig

T-BOT said:


> FINALLY.
> 
> *I tried it at 350-360F, pre-pressed for 10 sec, pressed the transfer for 12 sec., waited 1.5 sec. as ken suggested and peel, ....... and it work*  . No further re-presses with teflon. Im using an old manual Basix Press. I printed it on an "aa" Fine jersey knit fabric


Hi Lucy, much appreciated. Sounds like the bees knees. Are you involved with the beta testing of the duracotton 98 for darks?

Seems to be a bit of bad press around for Ken. Hope he proves them all wrong!

Thanks again for giving us a great start.

Modes. (alias, the Pig of Steel)


----------



## Mystic

*Hey Lucy,

My husband and I have been trying out the Duracotten 98 on a Oki 5200 and are having the issue of the gray box. Talked to Ken about it and it is our printer that is the issue. With the transfer that you got to work you used the HP 2600? Did you get any paper jams when you tried it out? Have you tried any more of the Duracotten on this printer and if so how did those turn out? Would appreciate your thoughts on this as we are considering getting the HP2600 since our Oki does not work with the duracotten 98.

Thanks 
Mystic *


----------



## T-BOT

hi mystic,

no paper jams, i was scared at first to feed the paper thru it because it was a new printer, all new to me and the paper Ken gave me was a different size than the regular paper 8.5x11. I printed at least 20 pages and used them all up. I think the grey was because i was pressing for too long with too much heat. 

I know when i do that with my Xerox CLC paper, the same end result happens, more or less. But im not 100% sure.

As for my advice on the printer to use, i guess you would need a printer that can handle some *volume with consistancy*. Thats something i have not done with the printer or paper. 

Perhaps ask Ken what printer he recommends. 

btw. Ask me about Kodak or Xerox CLC Transfer printing and i can tell you all about it, since my boss has teached me a lot and i have graduated to Digital CLC Transfer paper media Junior Expert level recently.  lol


----------



## Mystic

Lucy,

Thanks for the quick response. The grey issue that we are encountering is because our printer actually puts out this fume and puts it on the paper. So when we go to transfer it, the grey gets transfered as well also Ken does not give a direct recommendation for a printer. We have heard that Lexmark is a good one to try due to their lower fuser temperature that they have. So I think we are going to go the Lexmark route, once we get it and more paper we will let you know how it works out. 

Thanks Again
Mystic


----------



## goodtease

Hello Guys,
I am new to this heat transfer world and I have been talking with Ken and HP about color laser printers. Ken told me that he has had other people use the HP 3500 color laser jet. This is the older version of the new HP 3600. I called HP and finally got someone to tell me that the fusing temperature of the HP 3600 and 3800 are 374 degrees. So I take it that the Duracotton 98 can handle this temperature. Anyone else have any input on Color Lasers? 

By the way T-Bot....would CLC be a better option instead of printing with a laser?


----------



## T-BOT

goodtease said:


> Hello Guys,
> I am new to this heat transfer world and I have been talking with Ken and HP about color laser printers. Ken told me that he has had other people use the HP 3500 color laser jet. This is the older version of the new HP 3600. I called HP and finally got someone to tell me that the fusing temperature of the HP 3600 and 3800 are 374 degrees. So I take it that the Duracotton 98 can handle this temperature. Anyone else have any input on Color Lasers?
> 
> By the way T-Bot....would CLC be a better option instead of printing with a laser?


Color Lazer Copy (CLC) machines is what we use for the odd photo transfer these days (not really what we do anymore). I sneeked some thru the Xerox Lazer copier and it printed fine. The problem i had was getting it to look good on the shirt due to my application errors...i believe.

The reason i started this thread was because i was curious to learn more about this paper that can be used via CLC and off the self Lazer Printers to produce results that have never been achieved before (no trimming etc.).

Personally i think Ken is on to something here. I guess the challenge now is to show that this paper media can be consistant with some Off the shelf lazer printers and CLC machines. No dought in my mind that the finished printed result can verry good. 

As for using IT with the CLC machines. I think when companies like Xerox switch to this new paper and brand it with their own Name, thats where the real success for the product will come to light. In all probabillity it will happen, with this paper or some other.... in the future days to come of digital iron on transfer paper media. That I Believe.


----------



## mrstitch

I'm pleased to hear about the HP fuser tempurature. I recently purchased the OKI 5500 and today, the Duracotton stuck to the fuser. I did eventually clean the fuser, but it put a real dent in production. I'm returning the OKI and getting a printer with a lower fuser temp. I prefer a lesser quality image (the oki's is fantastic) than risk ruining another fuser. Has anyone used other paper with an OKI?


----------



## goodtease

Mrstitch,

Well I am suppose to get some samples of the duracotton98 material...maybe tomorrow. I was at CompUSA and the sales rep told me to bring it in and test it on the floor model before I buy it....on the HP 3600n and the new Epson Color Laser All-in-one. So I will let you know if I have to run out of the store really quickly if it sticks to the fuser.....lol.

On another note....does anyone know if this stuff works on mugs? I saw some mugs for a CLC transfer and was thinking this could work...anyone tried it?

oh and another question....is a vinyl cutter necessary? I figure if I bought one of those I really wouldn't have to worry about anything....does anyone know if it cuts exactly around any text?


----------



## Solmu

goodtease said:


> I was at CompUSA and the sales rep told me to bring it in and test it on the floor model before I buy it....


Wow, he's game!


----------



## binki

> On another note....does anyone know if this stuff works on mugs? I saw some mugs for a CLC transfer and was thinking this could work...anyone tried it?


I tried it on a junk mug and the results were not bad. I don't have any recommendations for time/temp. I just did one for 2 minutes at 400F. I did have some problems peeling. I am going to try it on wood. I did get some advice for wood to prepress for a few seconds and then to press for 60 seconds.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi:
This is Ken at AutoART!
Firstly, I would like to thank everyone for their interest in and support for DuraCotton 98 heat transfers. 
We have been observing your comments. As such, we have been listening and learning. We will be adding additional papers to the DuraCotton 98 offering to address specific issues and expand the opportunities for profitable pressing. Those opportunities are quickly materializing into tangible products.
Secondly, I would like to comment on specific concerns, issues, ... that have been brought to this 'round table' for discussion:
a) using DuraCotton 98, we have never noticed any (magenta) bleeding associated with the inkjet sublimation of 100% cotton. One of our distributors has washed this process approximately 50 times with no such comments.
Again, to the best of our knowledge, all brands of sublimation ink work equally well with DuraCotton 98. The secret is to use virtually 100% inkjet sublimation release paper (see INSTRUCTIONS on our website for Sublimation Transfer). Many papers do not release virtually 100% of the ink - we consider such results to be totally unacceptable.
b) DuraCotton 98 has strengths and weaknesses (jamming in the very latest and hotest lasers and copiers). On Monday or Tuesday of next week, we begin testing an updated version of DuraCotton 98 for the latest non-fuser oil equipment. Ultimately, we will end up with two papers, including the current version.
We have developed a five page email - for those that request such (it will in time be posted to our website) - addressing Recommended Printers and Copiers, Printing TIPS TRICKS, KM Printing TIPS TRICKS, Pressing TIPS TRICKS, and WASH TIPS TRICKS.
Doing it this way, allows us to update with the latest issues and solutions. Many individuals have been already emailed - the files are in Wordpad format.
c) "DuraCotton 98" consistency as it relates to toner left on the paper:
At AutoART, we do NOT believe this to be a paper issue but rather a heat press issue. 
Our paper is very demanding in terms of temperature requirements - other papers are much more forgiving. Way back, when we originally tested the paper, we had similar results. We tested and tested - we tried virtually every possible heat press setting, we tried different heat presses. Ultimately, we found that if the real temperature was at or above 400 F / 205 C degrees, all the toner released, the paper almost fell off the shirt (no tugging of the shirt) as the peel was nice and easy (sort of equivalent to cutting warm butter). 
It is real easy to set the temperature for 400 F / 205 C and think that it never ever fluctuates. But, almost all the time, the true temperature is below, often significantly below the target. With heat presses, the thermostat turns on the heat and turns it off. When off, the temperature falls quickly below 400 F / 205 C. That is when the paper does not release easily.
As well, many heat presses have cold spots between the heating coils. Of course, the heat press manufacturers will differ here. But when the heat is off, these spots quickly drop the temp below the target. Bingo, we have release issues.
At the Charlotte Show, mid-October 2006, we had a brand new heat press in the booth. We set the temp to just over 400 F / 205 C. At times, the transfers were perfect, at times the shirts were scorching and at times the transfer paper would simply not come off the shirt - all at the same temp. setting. One could say it was fluctuating hydro - in time, we realized it was the fluctuating temp of heat press. Ultimately, we cranked up the temp (to have that little green light on when pressing) and reduced the time - no scorching, perfect press and no toner left. 
At one point during the show, the thermostat was reading something like 360 F degrees. We took a pen and hit the thermostat - the temp jumped 50 F degrees - on a brand name new press. How can anyone anticipate great transfer results with such inaccurate heat press readings!!!!
Ok, why are our papers so demanding relative to the competition's? Our chemistry is non-toxic polyester-based (most transfers use a totally different base), our papers are set up for high fusing temps (most papers are for low temp fuser oil type equipment), our papers are ONE-STEP, ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting (invisible when pressed correctly) ZERO Cracking, ... (which no other transfer in the world to our knowledge is able to offer). To achieve all of these features and benefits, we had to give on the flexibility side of the equation.
d) Does DuraCotton 98 work on mugs, tiles etc.
Yes on coated mugs, tiles, metal, etc
Yes on wood
Yes on plastic
We are working on Uncoated mugs, metals
In summary, quoting Lucy: "I think like with any other paper, you need to find the right (heat press) settings"
have a great one
Ken
ps back to hibernation (product development)


----------



## edcruz

wow !! keep up the good work. !!


----------



## cprvh

Thank you for the update Ken! I believe you have something here. Like all new products, it takes a while to get the kinks out. Keep up the good work...I for one have high hopes!


----------



## goodtease

Hello Again,

Ken I got the samples! So I went into a computer store and actually tested the paper on some Laserjets. The first test was actually on an Epson Aculaser CX11NF Color Laser All in One Printer. I actually photo copied it on this one and it did a great job on the copy. This copier/laser seems to run cooler than the HP. Did a great job....so now all I have to do is wait for my press to arrive so i can test how it looks and feels on a tshirt. BUT the good thing is that it DIDN't fuse to the printer.

The next one was a HP 2605dn laserjet. I loaded in the Duracotton98 and presto...it came out. So again it didn't melt. However, I think this printer runs almost to the threshhold of the paper. It came out pretty curved and also it had I guess you would call bubbling?? But I will press this one too next week when I get my press. But again this didn't fuse to the printer. So it could possibly work...

My question is....are toners different in the sense that once they are pressed do they have different durability?

Is HP color laser toner more durable then say an Oki or Canon, Or Epson?

Anyone have any experience?


----------



## mrstitch

I'll chime in here.
I just returned my Oki 5500 for the HP 2605. 
The first print with Duracotton paper was smugged, but the following print improved. The colors appeared brownish, not giving me the deep blacks I was expecting, like I received on one lucky print using the Oki. Ken, who is very helpful, suggested converting black to Spot color, but I'm not sure how or where that is done- anyone? I'm using Corel 11 in case its there.


----------



## edwin 98

I received a Call asking how to convert to RGB colors using Corel. I have found that by:

Going to Window (across the top) select Color Palettes and then default RGB.

that I am able to do this without a problem

Edwin 98


----------



## T-BOT

::::UPDATE.

washed it 2 times.
machine wash and dry at low temp.
a very slight tiny fade on the black text.
nothing is visable around the black text.

the grey around the 320 writting is almost not noticeable now but feels a little rought.

The text it self feels soft.

i think the fabric itself is now pilling. Little fuzzy tiny fabric textures.


----------



## goodtease

well i got my Geo Knight Digital Combo press the other day and hooked it up....freakin thing weighs a ton...I got the stand too....another freakin ton...so together it was heavy...thank god for wheels. Anyways, I set the temp to 400 degrees and set the timer for 20 seconds. 

First I tried the HP Colorlaser print that I did on the duracotton sample. Just like i had imaged....I had a little bit of a grey haze window...so didn't turn out to good. Tried 2 copies.

next I tried the Epson Aculaser print. Same duracotton98. Made a laser copy using the Epson Aculaser. Heat pressed at 400 for 20 seconds. Came out great. A little bit of a window...but barely. I figure this will go out with the first wash. Also tried the sample that Paul sent me and that came out great too.

So all in all I think the Epson's new All in one Color Laser seems like a good option. I will let you guys know how the wash test goes...


----------



## wifey tees

I just bought the HP 2600N today. I'll be ordering some Duracotton 98 tomorrow. Ken sent me some samples (Thanks Ken!!) and we are excited to try it out. Anyone feel like telling me how they feel about the HP 2600N and Duracotton 98?

Side note: Thank you to Ken who took time out his busy day to help me on the phone and send me resources. I really, really, really appreciate it Ken. You're one of a kind.


----------



## mrstitch

I printed a few of the Duracottons on my new HP2605 today. With small prints, the image was fine, but full page prints did not peel smoothly. I raised the temp to 425, but still had that problem. I;ve only printed 6 or 7 times with the HP, but each time, I noticed an uneven application of ink; sometimes a streak or a missing spot or two. This was with the plain paper setting. I then read Ken's notes and tried printing with the light glossy paper setting and the print came out perfect. I've yet to print it though.


----------



## mrstitch

Edwin,

Thanks for the tip about Corel.

Just what I needed to know.

Dean


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Lucy:

I appreciate your latest comments re: DuraCotton 98 heat transfers.

You pressed at 360 F degrees - no wonder the results are totally unacceptable!

Here’s the explanation:

1. pressing your shirt at 360 F degrees, the DuraCotton 98 polymer did not melt; the HP toner did not melt - in fact, the polymer and toner did not bond together, the toner is exposed to washing and the toner is washing out. The image may totally washout. 

I suspect your shirt will not pass the AutoART Challenge (see: http://www.autoartusa.com/DuraCotton_98_Heat_Transfers,_S/Challenge.html )


2. at 360 F degrees, the DuraCotton 98 polymer did not melt and did not penetrate into and lock onto the cotton. The polymer is effectively left on the topside of the target shirt where it has feel (exactly as you reported).

The above confirms users need to follow the INSTRUCTIONS and then adjust (slightly) to their own equipment. We pressed in excess of 5000 images to develop these settings.

“More about DuraCotton 98 Heat Transfer Paper Info” explains how the DuraCotton 98 polymer, toner and cotton melt and lock together under the surface of the shirt. See: http://www.autoartusa.com/DuraCotton_98_Heat_Transfers,_S/DuraCotton_98_Info.html

3. Lucy - again I volunteer to travel 1.5 hours each way (3 hours round trip) to help your organization ‘figure out’ DuraCotton 98. 

have a great one!

Ken

PS With a big hug to Dean, thank you for defining how to print with the HP 26xx series - *light glossy paper setting*

PSS Today’s email brought happiness - very positive results from a Lexmark C500 user - *special paper*


----------



## T-BOT

T-BOT said:


> ::::UPDATE.
> 
> washed it 2 times.
> machine wash and dry at low temp.
> a very slight tiny fade on the black text.
> nothing is visable around the black text.
> 
> the grey around the 320 writting is almost not noticeable now but feels a little rought.
> 
> The text it self feels soft.
> 
> i think the fabric itself is now pilling. Little fuzzy tiny fabric textures.


ken, the actual post is a possitive one. Have a look at the photo again.


----------



## mrstitch

I printed a dozen fullsize prints today. The light glossy paper setting on the Hp2605 is the right setting for me. I'm still experimenting with the heat press settings. I own an Insta and printed at its near maximum temp of 425. It did peel better than at 400, but I worry about scorching the fabric. I do have a teflon sheet, but am concerned that not enough heat will transfer to make peeling easy. My transfers produce a slight gray tint on an area where no ink was printed on the paper. Ken- can you explain this?

Thanks!

Dean


----------



## DyeRex06

Hi Dean,

HP-2605 should NOT be producing ANY shadow effect. I tested the ones that I managed to print before returning mine, and they look great.

Try running a few plain paper sheets through, on heavy paper setting to clear any loose toner from jams, ect.

PS: how do you like your InstaGraph press ? We're in the market for a new press and are currently considering a HotTronix. I spoke to InstraGraph, and they seem to be really big on quality. I like that, but don't know any that has one, if they like it, how it compares to others mechanically and comfort of use wise.

PSS: I posted a thread on HP as to some voltage issues I discovered in my investigations as to the trouble some have had with HP's.

It's a T-Shirt Kinda World Out There....

Paul


----------



## jugurei

Does anyone know if the TransferDark paper from AutoART website is available for sale or they are still researching ? I am looking for a set of equipment (printer, ink and paper) for transferring to dark/all coloured shirts and the TransferDark seems to offer the best solution. Any other companies offering the same technology for transferring into dark shirts without cutting ? 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## mrstitch

DyeRex06 said:


> Hi Dean,
> 
> HP-2605 should NOT be producing ANY shadow effect. I tested the ones that I managed to print before returning mine, and they look great.
> 
> Try running a few plain paper sheets through, on heavy paper setting to clear any loose toner from jams, ect.
> 
> PS: how do you like your InstaGraph press ? We're in the market for a new press and are currently considering a HotTronix. I spoke to InstraGraph, and they seem to be really big on quality. I like that, but don't know any that has one, if they like it, how it compares to others mechanically and comfort of use wise.
> 
> PSS: I posted a thread on HP as to some voltage issues I discovered in my investigations as to the trouble some have had with HP's.
> 
> It's a T-Shirt Kinda World Out There....
> 
> Paul


 Hi Paul:
The gray tint on the t-shirt was not due to any debris from the fuser, but I'm considering it may be related to the temperature of the HP fuser and or the length of time the press was closed for- approx 15 seconds.
When I bought the Insta 6 months ago, I wanted the best unit available with no bells and whistles A few people I respect in the industry recommended them for their durability and consistent temperature. Two colleagues of mine have been using them daily for 15 years without a problem. To me, it’s just a $1,500 iron. I worked with someone who had a Hotronix ,the one with the digital readout, and it seemed to serve him fine.


----------



## goodtease

Mrstitch,

I tried the HP printers in CompUSA. And all the HP 2600 and 3600 made a grey tint due to the heat. I think the fuser is too hot for the duracotton98. The new Espon Aculaser all in one worked really well. So far so good with the pressing and the washing. Slight fading but really not that bad. I think the 2600n was the printer I used and it left a nice big grey window when I pressed it with the same settings as the Epson. Just thought I would let you know.

regards,

Anthony


----------



## studio67designs

T-BOT said:


> ken, the actual post is a possitive one. Have a look at the photo again.


Hi Lucy - 

The piling you see will go away after a few washes and the color vibrancy will actually improve ( actually it's always there ) but slightly masked by the inital piling...

I have pressed about 30 shirts that i have placed in the wash maybe 6 or seven times now and the washability results are great ! 

For Geo Knight heat press users the ideal temp that seems to work great for me is 385 degrees. Im using sublimation inks with great results.

I believe Ken is still tweaking the TransferDark technology as we speak so im sure he will post a note on here when it is ready for some feedback from users...

Season's Greetings to all of you ! 

Nick


----------



## T-BOT

goodtease said:


> Mrstitch,
> 
> I tried the HP printers in CompUSA. And all the HP 2600 and 3600 made a grey tint due to the heat. I think the fuser is too hot for the duracotton98. The new Espon Aculaser all in one worked really well. So far so good with the pressing and the washing. Slight fading but really not that bad. I think the 2600n was the printer I used and it left a nice big grey window when I pressed it with the same settings as the Epson. Just thought I would let you know.
> 
> regards,
> 
> Anthony


I think thats the HP printer I have, I did not notice any grey on the transfer sheets, but that may explain why I was not able to get perfect results. I did manage to get 1 print to work good ( the one i pressed at low temp. 360F ), all other pressings left the grey on the fabric. 

thanks for the update on that Anthony, Im still learning about it.
Keep it comming since I too Im curious how to achieve consistant results and what the best printer is to work together with this paper. The one i did manage to get it to work feels great, no trimming and holding up great in the wash. bUt im a little puzzeled. Consistancy is important i think.


----------



## T-BOT

studio67designs said:


> Hi Lucy -
> 
> The piling you see will go away after a few washes and the color vibrancy will actually improve ( actually it's always there ) but slightly masked by the inital piling...
> 
> Nick


Hi Nick, Im not concerned with the pilling.
Pilling is normal with most cotton fabrics after you wash it a few times. Thats what makes cotton a great fabric, the pilling is just part of it.

I was impressed and proud of myself how great the darn thing looks and feels. No complaints there.


----------



## sodrisc

we have some duracotton on the way for testing, we also need to buy a colour laser as the inkjet we use is on its last legs. we can only really stretch to a budget one and almost plumped for the HP2600, but reading the above worrys me a little. Any other budget printer available in the UK someone can recommend for use with this stuff?


----------



## edwin 98

We bought a Lexmark C500n and it works wonderfully. I do not think the HP 2600 will work. We had to return ours because of Jams. Before we did HP technical service told us the the printer was sensitive to power fluctions. He said to remove the power filter and try again. We did and then returned the printer. I know that the HP 3550 works because we used one to print over 100 shirt samples. There is a post saying that there are other HP printers that use the same fuser tempature as the 3550. Look back and read it I do not know if it is true.

Edwin


----------



## Mystic

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98 HELP*

HELP!!!

Hello All,

Just purchased a Lexmark C500N and we are having some issues with paper jamming. We read what Paul said in regards to his C500 but not working for us. 
We have tried the Special Paper Setting, the transparency setting and plain paper setting, on all 3 we got paper jams. Since the Lexmark does not have a manual tray we are wondering who else has the C500 and has tried it with the DuraCotten and what settings you have used for it. Any input on this would be great. 
We also tried and HP Series, we did not get any paper jams with it but we did get a gray box, not all the ink coming off the paper AND the quality was just not there in regards to the picture that we want. 
Once again Thanks for any input.

Mystic


----------



## edwin 98

I just found out that the HP 2605 has a light Glossey setting for the paper. I use a MAC and the HP 2600 we bought did not have that setting. I am sorry for any problems I may have caused by not explaining what equipment I use that is different from others on this forum. 

Edwin


----------



## mrstitch

That's alright Ed. I am still vexed with the gray tint. If I print just a plain sheet, it prints gray. I've used every cleaning method suggested by HP, but I'm stuck having to trim every transfer. I'm getting frustrated because this is my second printer (Oki 5500 and HP 2605) and although the image is nice on the garment, the trimming does not make this practical.
Any suggestions? Ken?
Thanks


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dean:
We have not encountered such on the HP 2605. We are tracking a resolution to overcome the issue - we are in contact with HP. We will respond asap.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## edwin 98

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98 HELP*

Dear Misty: I have called Lexmark about the problem you are having with the C500n. According to Lexmark the specifications for the C500n and the C510n are the same. They both should handle glossy paper without a problem. The C510n has a glossy setting in the driver and the C500n does not. Lexmark hardware people say it is a driver problem not a hardware problem as the C510n jams in anyother setting. I have talked to a supervisor and he has promised me to call me today and let met know what they are going to do about this issue.

Edwin


----------



## Mystic

Hello Edwin,

Thank you so much for your help. We have been trying out different settings and were having the same issues. I appreciate you calling them and hopefully we can find the right setting for us. 
Once again THANKS!!!

Mystic


----------



## T-BOT

dont know if this helps you peeps, but on the HP 2600n I had no paper jams. I printed about 15 transfers. I think my problem was the grey/apply setting. 

More info on this Jam thing would be great to help others choosing a printer etc.


----------



## grumpster

It would seem that the high gloss on the paper is causing the problem. Some how it is causing static to build up on the paper causing the grey fog. I've tried running a couple diffrent high gloss photo papers through it and got the same problem. Matte paper worked just fine though. My printer (Oki) isn't intended as a photo printer and does not have a photo or high gloss setting on it. The duracotton 98 is a high gloss paper. Hopefully they will come out with a version that is less shinny. I'd be willing to bet that would solve the grey fog issue.


----------



## edwin 98

Mistic: I just got off the phone with Lexmark. They are upgrading my complaint to there 3rd level supervisors. The software people tried to get fancy with me and say the specs were different the hardware guy that was on the conference call read the specs and said that it did read the same when I told them both that the C510 has a glossy setting in the driver that worked the software guy said "it is not my problem" the hardware guy said he is taking it up the the 3rd level for resulition.

Edwin


----------



## mrstitch

DJ-
Interesting idea about static buildup. I ran matte paper and didn't see any gray tint. The gray on Duracotton does have the appearance of "static" particles, but why doesn't the same paper gray on other laser printers that accept glossy paper? 
Today, I could print no more than three in succession. After that, the ink on the paper would run and the paper would stick together. Could this be due to the fuser temperature?


----------



## grumpster

Some other printers are having problems as well. I know of a number of members here and on other forums that are having problems with HP's and Lexmarks as well. I'm no expert, but I'd guess the diffrence is that some printers are designed more for photo papers (usually glossy) and others aren't. My 5200 isn't designed as a "photo" printer and doesn't have a glossy photo paper setting. 

Intrestingly enough I did think of something else. Transperancy's, though transperant are also reflective. On a hunch I tried running one through that way. I managed to get one through before jamming. It did however reduce the fog quite a bit, but not totally. This does tend to confirm that the reflection of the surface of the Duracotton 98 does affect the fog problems with Oki's and other printers. The lowest paper weight setting for transperancys is medium so I couldn't reduce the heat of the fuser.

Possibly a glossy paper setting in the print drivers "might" solve the problems. Best solution though is for the people that make Duracotton 98 to reforumliate it to be less shinny. Granted, that would cost them a bit, but what is all the talk about problems with it in this and other forums costing them? I'm sure a lot of people (almost everyone with an Oki) that didn't jump the gun and buy it right away (like me) won't because of the problems with the fog that we're having.


----------



## edcruz

which printer is best for a3 printing ? bcoz i am planning to take it to a printing shop to print the a3 size as i do not have a3 laser printer. i want to research so that i do not jam their printers ! ^_^


----------



## edwin 98

Lexmark has decided to send out a hardware/software specialist to look at the promlems. He will be here Monday and we will see where we go from there. If anyone call Lexmark and complains make you tell them that the paper works with the C510 because of the glossey setting in the driver.

Edwin


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Dean:

HP has provided some information but not enough. We have not forgotten about you. As soon as possible and as soon as we have the complete story from HP, we will be back to you with their recommendations.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Edcruz:

We have run numerous DuraCotton 98 sheets on copiers - at Kinkos, Staples and in testing. Just stay away from the latest (and hotest) equipment.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

We, at AutoART, appreciate there are some issues with DuraCotton 98 when it comes to printing on the latest (and hotest) color laser printers and copiers. In particular, Lexmark and HP are communicating with us these days.

If the stars align on our behalf, we hope to introduce at Imprint Canada Trade Show, Toronto, Jan 19, 20 (PC XTRA booth) two - three new products. One of these new products will resolve the above issues.

We appreciate the suggestions of DJ down in Texas. We have forwarded such to our coater and he is researching. 

We will be back with tangible answers asap!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## T-BOT

As a side note, You have achieved alot Ken, the paper does feel soft, no trimming and no cracking when i stretch it a little. So, keep at it. We understand that what you are doing is a big job in making the paper work with the gazzillion printers on the market. Thanks for taking the digital paper media a step beyond.


----------



## goodtease

Hello all,

Has anyone here used the Konica Minolta Magicolor printers with the Duracotton98? I was reading on their website that the fusing temperature is lower than normal lasers....they didn't say the exact temp...but I just wanted to see if anyone is using these printers. I was looking at the Magicolor 5430DL or the 2500 serious. Let me know ! I really need to buy a laser ASAP!

Anthony


----------



## binki

goodtease said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Has anyone here used the Konica Minolta Magicolor printers with the Duracotton98? I was reading on their website that the fusing temperature is lower than normal lasers....they didn't say the exact temp...but I just wanted to see if anyone is using these printers. I was looking at the Magicolor 5430DL or the 2500 serious. Let me know ! I really need to buy a laser ASAP!
> 
> Anthony


Yes. We have the KM3300 magicolor. We did get a paper jam from the multi-tray but no problems with the bulk feeder. We have run about 20 pages thru the printer so far.


----------



## goodtease

ok,

I just got off the phone with a great technical support guy over at Minolta. I asked him about the fusing temperature of the following printers. 
The Magicolo 2550 runs between 385 F to 400 F.
The Magicolor 3300 runs at 338 F to 365 F
The Magicolor 5430 runs at 380 F
The Magicolor 7450 runs at 343 F - this is the best one but cost $2999

So if the Duracotton works within these temperatures I will get one of these.

Anthony


----------



## grumpster

My oki 5200 has a serious fog problem so I can's print directly on it. Tried using it as a prep sheet on 50/50 and 100% cotton and got no better results than with hottee. The images especially on the cotton have almost totally washed out after only 2 washes. With a direct print and press it seems to hold up for at least 2 washes, but with the fog issue I can't use it. 

I tried using the transparency setting thinking that was the only setting that would address the reflection problem at all and did get some though not complete improvement once I managed to get it through the printer, but had a serious jamming problem with that setting. 

Any hopes of getting new print drivers anytime soon from Oki for the 5200?


----------



## DuraCotton98

DJ

We have been in discussion with OKI for a few months now. They asked for a DuraCotton 98 MSDS which we have provided. Informally one person at Oki has proposed a new driver but progress is very slow.

Based on the results to date, your best solution is likely to wait until we release 2 - 3 new products. These new products are targeted for the Imprint Canada Show, Jan 19, 20. One of these should address the issues you are experiencing.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## grumpster

Will I be able to receive any credit for the paper that I have already purchased? If this new paper is less shinny and resolves my fog issue I'd like to give it a try. Other than the fog I like the paper. Unfortunately the fog is a killer.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Of course, return the paper to the distributor from whom you purchased.

Personally, I would wait a few days. We are awaiting a response from HP and it would be interesting to 'test' their recommendations.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## edwin 98

Hi everybocy: I am sorry I was unable to see the Hardware/Software specialist from Lexmark. My wife broke a tooth and I had to run her to a denist where she had oral surgery. I jus got back and I will call the Tech for an appointment for Tue.

Edwin


----------



## steelpig

goodtease said:


> ok,
> 
> I just got off the phone with a great technical support guy over at Minolta.
> Anthony


Hi Anthony. I thought you were having great success with your Epson Aculaser? (See post 100) I admit, we took a chance and bought an Epson Aculaser C2600n, with mixed results. Finally sorted out problems using another paper, but when I tried printing on a test sheet of Duracotton98, it jammed and melted like it had been through hell and back.

I figure there may be a humidity issue here. What humidity do you have in NY at the moment?

Has any one else had any problems with a new Epson?

Any hints welcome at this time. Modes Blue.


----------



## Solmu

steelpig said:


> I figure there may be a humidity issue here. What humidity do you have in NY at the moment?


I'm guessing the humidity of NY winter doesn't compare much to the humidity of Queensland summer


----------



## grumpster

Check your paper weight setting on your printer. If it's set for too heavy of a paper it will melt the Duracotton 98 everytime. On my Oki, I set it for normal weight, with another paper I have to set it for heavy. Needless to say, when I switch back and forth between papers like that, I'm either melting the Duracotton 98 or not fuseing the toner with the other paper once in a while when I forget to change the setting.


----------



## sraider

Ed, did you see the specialist from lexmark?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Compliments of the Season!

The following info is a secret - we do not want the competition to know - so please keep this quiet:

We have received verbal confirmation, that a paper built along the lines of DuraCotton 98, targeted specifically at NON-OIL laser printers and copiers, should be in our hands for mid January. This paper should resolve the issues, associated with jamming, experienced on non-oil equipment. DuraCotton 98 will NOT be discontinued.

As with DuraCotton 98, the forthcoming paper will be ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, etc. 

Formal announcements etc will be forthcoming (and more product is just around the corner)!

Happy Holidays everyone!

Ken


----------



## PT Studios

man... I'm dying to try this stuff out... I should as Santa for a laser printer for Christmas.....


----------



## edwin 98

Dear Sraider: The Lemark Specialist just left my office. He said the C510 Glossy mode lowers the temp of the fuser. He said that Lexmark Driver software for the C500 does not lower the fuser temp. I have a call in for the supervisor who sent the tech out to my office. I saw DuraCotton 98's reply and I hope we do not have to wait for the new paper to use our C500.

Edwin


----------



## oldscot

Have been doing some testing with our Lexmark C500N. Some people have been able to use the "Special Paper" setting and getting good prints. When we used this setting we got a really nice paper jam that took about an hour to clear. When we used the first thick paper setting (there are three) we go good prints. In the event that you have a paper jam in the unit you must clean it out thoroughly or it will jam again. If anyone needs information on clearing out a paper jam with this printer, let me know as it is very easy to damage the fuser unit ($240.00 with shipping) I was able to purchase a C500n printer for $278.00 and they paid the shipping.


----------



## oldscot

I just replied to another message about this situation with the Laxmark C500 so bear with me if I repeat myself. For me the "special paper" setting caused a lot of toner to stick to the fuser unit and caused a massive paper jam. (I think that there is a difference in how each unit is set up at the factory so this setting mayl work on some machines) I was able to get some good prints using the first of the three thick paper settings. In order for this to work, the fuser unit needs to be clean with no toner stuck to it if you have had a previous paper jam . It may be necessary to remove the fuser unit and carefully wipe the stuck toner from the orange roller and the plastic cover that rubs against the orange roller. If you carefully remove the top cover from the fuser unit you can turn the little plastic gear which will in turn rotate the rollers and allow you to wipe them clean with an old sock or something soft. Don"t poke anything into the rollers or you can damage the $240.00 (with shipping) fuser unit.


----------



## steelpig

grumpster said:


> Check your paper weight setting on your printer. If it's set for too heavy of a paper it will melt the Duracotton 98 everytime.


Thanks DJ. I used the plain paper setting. However, with only 2 sheets left to play with, I decided to wait for the results of Ken's new offerings in January.


----------



## edwin 98

Re: Lexmark C500. 
When the Tech was here today after he jamed he ran a sheet of plain paper thru the machine and when it jamed he cleared it and then ran 4 more sheets of plain paper. By the 2 sheet the paper was clear on the back side.

Edwin


----------



## Mystic

oldscot said:


> Have been doing some testing with our Lexmark C500N. Some people have been able to use the "Special Paper" setting and getting good prints. When we used this setting we got a really nice paper jam that took about an hour to clear. When we used the first thick paper setting (there are three) we go good prints. In the event that you have a paper jam in the unit you must clean it out thoroughly or it will jam again. If anyone needs information on clearing out a paper jam with this printer, let me know as it is very easy to damage the fuser unit ($240.00 with shipping) I was able to purchase a C500n printer for $278.00 and they paid the shipping.



Thanks Old Scot for the information on the cleaning of the fuser. We had several paper jams and tried several different settings. We are going to double check our fuser, give it a cleaning and try the first of the heavy settings. We are also waiting with baited breath to see this new paper as we also have an Oki. We got the Oki to work beautifully with the DuraCotten but when we pressed it we got the grey. So we want the beautiful picture of the Oki but without the grey box lol. Once again thanks for the info.
Mystic


----------



## oldscot

Am I confused. Ran several prints thru the c500 the last day or so and got great prints using the first of the three heavy settings. This morning ran another sheet thru at the same settings and it came thru without jamming with the same good printing but this time the sheet was slightly crinkled, just enough to make it impossible to press as some of the lettering was chipped and scratched. Inspection of the fuser rollers showed them to be still clean and uncontaminated. I would still try this setting if you have not done so as it may be that results will vary slightly from machine to machine.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi OldScot:

It is important to have the paper in the (paper) tray straight and snug end to end and side to side.

If not, the paper will likely come out 'crinkled'.

This issue can occur with all printers, copiers and papers.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## oldscot

Hello Ken, how are you doing? Did double check that the paper was in the tray straight and snug end to end and side to side and it did come out crinkled again.
Did run another another brand of A4 under yours and while the Duracotton98 came out crinkled the other A4 sheet underneath came out perfect. Am still confused.


----------



## oldscot

Hello Ken.As I indicated to you in my e-mail, we think we know why the prints ran yesterday were so good and the ones we ran today crinkled. the crinkled samples were ran on several old sample sheets you had kindly provided quite a while ago and I believe they may have been slightly curled which could have caused the problem. The good prints were made on some more recently provided samples that had been sealed up in a plastic bag.How important it is for users of all papers including yours to seal the papers up and prevent them from being subjected to moisture etc.


----------



## T-BOT

oldscot said:


> The good prints were made on some more recently provided samples that had been sealed up in a plastic bag.How important it is for users of all papers including yours to seal the papers up and prevent them from being subjected to moisture etc.


thats a good point. I know about that because the Xerox paper we use is always inside a sealed bag. Im surprised no one mentioned that, for this paper and other lazer papers.


----------



## SciFiBri

Hi everyone - really useful thread
I also have the problem with the grey box, using a new Oki 3000 series. I have sent an email to Oki looking for possible settings for glossy paper since I have 200 sheets of the current stuff. We're lucky in that most of our designs do not use words, have a square box for ease of trimming. Text +Image are getting done with Miracool right now. I did have some pressing issues, and so did a check on our press temp with a tool I borrowed from my mechanic - it was in some cases 50 degrees F. cooler than it was supposed to be! Granted, it's a Hix Swingman so not the most expensive press, but too bad it's that far off. We checked it at several spots on the platten, and several different temps and found the variation to move between 25 and 55 degrees cooler than indicated. So, to get a solid 400 degrees I set the thermostat at 435 and pressed a bit longer. Time to check some other threads about the best heat presses.


----------



## grumpster

SciFiBri said:


> Hi everyone - really useful thread
> I did have some pressing issues, and so did a check on our press temp with a tool I borrowed from my mechanic - it was in some cases 50 degrees F. cooler than it was supposed to be!


If you used a IR non contact thermometer that you just point at the press you won't get accurate readings. The only way to get an accurate reading is with a contact pyrometer that is pressed against the press against the press to get a accurate tempature.


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

grumpster said:


> If you used a IR non contact thermometer that you just point at the press you won't get accurate readings. The only way to get an accurate reading is with a contact pyrometer that is pressed against the press against the press to get a accurate tempature.


How do you figure that? All the IR thermometers I've looked at have a +/- rating of one degree. Is that not accurate enough?


----------



## SciFiBri

Hi
I did use a contact thermometer. Stick-type with digital read-out. Put it in icewater first to check accuracy, right on the button at 32 degrees F. Left it on the platten for about 5 or 6 seconds until the temp quit climbing and then recorded that temp, and the area.
I actually used both types of thermos, and the non-contact "gun" registered, oh, about 175 degrees F. COLD! Thermostat set on 400 deg. F. stick registered 353 deg. or so, gun gave me a reading of 250 deg. F. 
I say me, but my mechanic was actually doing most of the readings so I figure the tools were used properly. 
Crazy deal this! Explains some other pressing problems I have had with other papers, too.
Anybody done similar tests?


----------



## goodtease

I was wondering if anyone else has used the newer lexmark color laser printers. I know C500 is having issues, the C510 works well but hard to actually find that printer new......so has anyone used the C530dn, C532n or any of the NEW c series of Color Lasers?

I would really like to know since I am still in a holding pattern with the duracotton98....

I have washed a sample that I did 3 times now...still holding up. 

Anthony


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

SciFiBri said:


> Hi
> I did use a contact thermometer. Stick-type with digital read-out. Put it in icewater first to check accuracy, right on the button at 32 degrees F. Left it on the platten for about 5 or 6 seconds until the temp quit climbing and then recorded that temp, and the area.
> I actually used both types of thermos, and the non-contact "gun" registered, oh, about 175 degrees F. COLD! Thermostat set on 400 deg. F. stick registered 353 deg. or so, gun gave me a reading of 250 deg. F.
> I say me, but my mechanic was actually doing most of the readings so I figure the tools were used properly.
> Crazy deal this! Explains some other pressing problems I have had with other papers, too.
> Anybody done similar tests?


Don't ever assume anybody knows what they're doing! What experience does your mechanic have at reading temps from a heat press??

If you are not aiming perpendicular (or reasonably close to) to the platen you will likely get inaccurate readings. My readings were WAY off until I straightened up my act. Remember, you are measuring radiated heat. You have to be in the path of the radiation in order for it to work. Your target also has to be within the field of view.


----------



## SciFiBri

The tool I used is designed to measure the exact surface temperature of automobile parts, mainly engine and exhaust surfaces. It has two sensors which are placed in direct contact with the heated surface, and then held there. It is not rocket science, you know? Add the fact that the platen on my swing-away model is very accessible, my conclusion is the readings I get are a pretty accurate reflection of the platen temp . As well, I know that Ken Black submitted a post where they had tested a new, more expensive press and found that the readings varied as well. 
And, my mechanic was particular about getting the proper angle for both tests, which is why we propped the press at and angle to swing open the platten and have a straight shot at it.


----------



## Lnfortun

mrstitch said:


> I'm pleased to hear about the HP fuser tempurature. I recently purchased the OKI 5500 and today, the Duracotton stuck to the fuser. I did eventually clean the fuser, but it put a real dent in production. I'm returning the OKI and getting a printer with a lower fuser temp. I prefer a lesser quality image (the oki's is fantastic) than risk ruining another fuser. Has anyone used other paper with an OKI?


I own a C5200Ne. I have used Hottee, Airwaves Supreme Elite, Coastal Business' Elite (maybe the same as Airwaves), JBLGraphics Spectra-Laser (maybe same as Airwaves) and Forever Universal transfer papers. I did have jammimg issues when I first used the printer with Hottee and Coastal brands until I figured out the settings. Most manufacturers recommend to use from medium to ultra heavy paper weight but what worked for me was card stock setting.

All the paper I tried had vibrant color, no fog effect and soft hand except Forever Universal BUTTTT they all leave a light to very noticeable dark gray polymer window.

Duracotton 98 sounds promising from what I read in this thread and what I have seen in the samples in AutoArts Website. I sure would like to get a hold of some samples even if I have to pay for them. I have heard of good reviews with the original Duracotton formulation and I think the manufacturer is on to something good again with Duracotton 98.

Right now my Oki is on standy until a new transfer paper comes along. Hope not for very long. The manufacturer of the thermal wax ink printer I have been using has discontinued the ink.

Luis


----------



## edwin 98

Luis: Send me an e-mail [email protected] and I will send you samples. Include your name, Co. name, Address, and phone number.

Edwin


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

SciFiBri said:


> The tool I used is designed to measure the exact surface temperature of automobile parts, mainly engine and exhaust surfaces. It has two sensors which are placed in direct contact with the heated surface, and then held there. It is not rocket science, you know? Add the fact that the platen on my swing-away model is very accessible, my conclusion is the readings I get are a pretty accurate reflection of the platen temp . As well, I know that Ken Black submitted a post where they had tested a new, more expensive press and found that the readings varied as well.
> And, my mechanic was particular about getting the proper angle for both tests, which is why we propped the press at and angle to swing open the platten and have a straight shot at it.


That's very odd. Maybe you have a defective gun or the batteries were old? Some units are only accurate to 2-300 degrees as well.

These things are very, very accurate. I don't dispute your measurements but I have a hard time accepting your statement that they are inaccurate.


----------



## goodtease

Hello everyone.....I was on the phone today with a technical rep from Lexmark...he told me that the NEW Lexmark c530dn printers run at 358 degrees F and that it has a glossy mode on it. Also the c532n runs at the same temperature too. So I take it that these will work with the Duracotton98 right now. He said it is the same as the C510 which I think Edwin you said you guys have been running with no problem....right?

I really need to get a printer....just wanted to see any last thoughts....if not I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and order the c530dn....and test for myself. Hopefully someone can chime in so I won't burn 500 bucks for no reason....

THanks guys!

Anthony


----------



## edwin 98

Goodtease: Yes, we have been running the Lexmark C510n in glossy mode using DuraCotton 98. The results are good for a postscrip printer. If either the C530n Or the C532n is not a postscript printer the color is better according to my son.
Edwin


----------



## goodtease

Does anyone have a PHOTO of a Duracotton98 made tshirt that has been through ALOT of washing and abuse?? If so could you post it? I am just trying to see the durability.

Thanks guys!


----------



## goodtease

well I just ordered the Lexmark c530dn duplex printer color laser.....so I will let everyone know if it jams up.....Hopefully it will work as well as the c510!!!! If things don't go well....I will be starting a Fuser relief fund shortly there after....


----------



## goodtease

No body has photos of Duracotton98 prints they have done and washed many times??


----------



## edwin 98

Goodease: I have several of the ready to scan and post but with the holidays I have not had the chanch to do it. I will try to get it done by Tuesday.

Edwin


----------



## dzine

goodtease said:


> well I just ordered the Lexmark c530dn duplex printer color laser.....so I will let everyone know if it jams up.....Hopefully it will work as well as the c510!!!! If things don't go well....I will be starting a Fuser relief fund shortly there after....


Tony, I bet there's a lot of us waiting to hear what you think of the Lexmark you've ordered! I've been crazy myself, trying to figure out which CLP to buy. 
I think it's hard for anyone to nail down a preference, as every trans paper most likely presents it own issues. 

What made you come down to this decision? I'm curious. I bet you're too anxious to receive it! 

I've had a lot of personal issues w/HP products in the past with other applications, so I would steer away from them. Yet, I have a client who recently purchased 2 CLP's for her business (not sure what model) and the printing is beautiful on regular paper. Even so, she has had to get service on them both in the 2 months she's had them! 

I've recently added heat trans to my business, so following this thread is great...trying to make an informed decision on which printer to buy is difficult! Best of luck to you!


----------



## goodtease

Thanks Edwin,

I have a potentially big order of custom tshirts and was hoping to be able to pull that off with Duracotton98. They are just for staff tshirts but they will have to be durable...since they will be working with kids and most likely have to wash these alot. The logo is about 5 colors...so hopefully this will be the best solution.


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

*No Go with Samsung CLP-600N*

I picked up this printer for $300 after rebates & discounts. Some were able to get it for $250 but the manager at Staples wouldn't let me stack coupons. Grr...

Anyway, just want to report that this printer is *not *compatible with the Duracotton98 paper. I was able to get 2 sheets out of it. On the 3rd (and every attempt thereafter) the paper melted and stuck to the fuser. I believe the problem is due to the paper not releasing on its way out and rolling around a second time (at least it's trying to) on the fuser. Made a godawful mess.

Fortunately printing 3-4 regular sheets (and having them all stick to the fuser) cleared up the residue and the 5th or so sheet would feed through. It took another couple to print a sheet completely free of gunk.

I tried all of the settings in the driver to see if one would lower the fuser temp with no luck. 

I'm majorly bummed as I was hoping this would eliminate the need to use the Miracool paper. That stuff is a pain in the butt!


----------



## StackemHard

Hello everyone:

I was just wondering when they will make a paper like this for Ink jet Printers????? Or i am seriously outdated and new laser transfers are the way to go?????


----------



## DuraCotton98

Happy New Year everyone!

Today, we received the beta samples for DuraCotton98 HT (high temp) for *NON-OIL color laser printers and copiers *(white, light fabric colors).

We anticipate showing at Imprint Canada (Toronto) Jan 19, 20 2007. If beta results are excellent, then a limited quantity will be available (sales following the show) before inventory arrives. 

Actually, we are planning on introducing three (3) new DuraCotton98 papers during the show.

But first, many tests need to be undertaken. Then we can answer questions - until then, we would only be guessing (not good for anyone). At this time, we do NOT have samples.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## goodtease

Moo Spot

Yeah ALL the Samsungs run too hot. I checked with the manufacturer....but I am getting my Lexmark 530dn next tuesday...so I will update everyone on the outcome. 

Anthony


----------



## goodtease

Dzine,

I can't wait to get it either. But I spoke in length with Lexmark regarding the fusing temperatures of this and the Lexmark c510 and also the settings that are available on the new models. The C530dn is a duplex printer so it can print on both sides.....this is for some other things I do...but it also has a higher resolution than most of the other laser printers. 

The fusing temperature in Glossy Mode is only on the c530dn, C532n, and C534dn, and C534n are the ones that have the Glossy Mode. The C500n does not have a glossy mode which is probably why some people had problems with this model.

So if this tech guy was correct...this model should have no problems with the Duracotton98....also it does legal without an adapter 

Anthony


----------



## periscope

Duracotton 98 can be used as a base for ink jet transfers, especially high release paper. You just use a blank sheet apply at 400 degrees for about 9 sec, peel hot, apply ink jet transfer using same time as you normally would - 50 sec or so. Please email if you have any more questions re this.


----------



## periscope

Lexmark C510 has the Glossy mode.


----------



## StackemHard

OK I'm probabally beating a dead horse here but i want to know if Duracotton 98 will be available for Ink Jet Printers in the near future???

KEN???????????????????????


----------



## StackemHard

I have no problem getting a new laser printer if needs be to use the paper but i like my ink jet printers. I like being able to refill my carttridges when ever i want and just the ease of that is a big factor in me wanting to keep my Ink Jet.


----------



## T-BOT

StackemHard said:


> I have no problem getting a new laser printer if needs be to use the paper but i like my ink jet printers. I like being able to refill my carttridges when ever i want and just the ease of that is a big factor in me wanting to keep my Ink Jet.


well yeah. If you have current jobs to do use what you have. I for one am not stopping production on all ends to accomodate any new paper media or equipment. New products should be phased in when the right time comes as you need them. Is this the right time for you ? thats the question. 

....more on topic.

Can anyone put together a list of the printers that work best with this paper and post it here ? 

thanks, Im a knob with tech printer stuff.


----------



## dzine

goodtease said:


> Dzine,
> 
> I can't wait to get it either. But I spoke in length with Lexmark regarding the fusing temperatures of this and the Lexmark c510 and also the settings that are available on the new models. The C530dn is a duplex printer so it can print on both sides.....this is for some other things I do...but it also has a higher resolution than most of the other laser printers.
> 
> The fusing temperature in Glossy Mode is only on the c530dn, C532n, and C534dn, and C534n are the ones that have the Glossy Mode. The C500n does not have a glossy mode which is probably why some people had problems with this model.
> 
> So if this tech guy was correct...this model should have no problems with the Duracotton98....also it does legal without an adapter
> 
> Anthony


Ok..it's 7am Wednesday morning...did you get the printer yet? WELL???
Just kidding!

I have a friend whose brother works for Lexmark, perhahps I should ask his opinion too...though I don't even know what he does for the company. But your testings will be a great benefit for all of us. 

Thank you for your response, I appreciate it! Looking forward to what you think of the printer over all.


----------



## susan

DuraCotton98 said:


> Happy New Year everyone!
> 
> We anticipate showing at Imprint Canada (Toronto) Jan 19, 20 2007.


Ken
Do you have a link for more informaiton on this show? I would be interested in attending.

Susan R
Smiths Falls, ON


----------



## edwin 98

StackemHard said:


> OK I'm probabally beating a dead horse here but i want to know if Duracotton 98 will be available for Ink Jet Printers in the near future???
> 
> KEN???????????????????????


DuraCotton 98 will never work as a release paper for ink jet printers. It is now used as a 2 step process on 100% cotton. 

Edwin


----------



## edwin 98

susan said:


> Ken
> Do you have a link for more informaiton on this show? I would be interested in attending.
> 
> Susan R
> Smiths Falls, ON


I can answer that. The link is www.imprintcanada.com

Edwin


----------



## susan

edwin 98 said:


> I can answer that. The link is Imprint Canada
> 
> Edwin


Thank you Edwin, I am looking at the site now.

Susan R


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

StackemHard said:


> I have no problem getting a new laser printer if needs be to use the paper but i like my ink jet printers. I like being able to refill my carttridges when ever i want and just the ease of that is a big factor in me wanting to keep my Ink Jet.


You really think that refilling cartridges is easier than swapping out a toner cart? 

The whole point of using a laser is that it's a LOT cheaper and less of a hassle than inkjets (over the long haul). The implied promise here is that you fill up a tray with paper, hit print and poof, out come your transfers with no fuss. I personally don't see how people use ironall/miracool paper in a production environment. The stuff is a royal pain to use.


----------



## PT Studios

I'm still confused on this whole situation... can you use the laser papers with dark shirts? Do you have to have special toner for the laser printer? Is there a laser printer that actually works 90% of the time with the Durocotton98? I have been following this thread and I have visited the website... but, it all still sounds a little iffy to me.

Love the website by the way Moo Spot LOL!


----------



## StackemHard

I see your point. Ok then will someone please tell me what Laser printer is having the best results with the Duracotton 98 paper and I am going to go get it and start printing my shirts. Anyone Use the paper on their printer and not have any problems????


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

PT Studios said:


> I'm still confused on this whole situation... can you use the laser papers with dark shirts? Do you have to have special toner for the laser printer? Is there a laser printer that actually works 90% of the time with the Durocotton98? I have been following this thread and I have visited the website... but, it all still sounds a little iffy to me.


This paper is for light shirts. It accomplishes the same end result as regular transfer paper (ironall, miracool, etc). The difference is that is uses toner instead of ink. How the coating bonds to the fabric and holds the ink/toner is different too. In a nutshell, you print on the coated side. When you press it, the coating melts a little, bonds to the fabric and seals in the goodness (i.e. ink particles/toner). 

You can use it on dark shirts, but it wouldn't look very good -- inks darken so you have to start with a light/white color to have good contrast. 

You do not have to use special toner. But as of right now you have to use a laser printer that doesn't heat up the fuser too much. Not sure what the magic temp is or which ones work. I know mine doesn't. 



> Love the website by the way Moo Spot LOL!


 Heh. Haven't had time to do anything with it yet. It's just Mojo showing off his moo spots (along with a very concerned look).


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

StackemHard said:


> I see your point. Ok then will someone please tell me what Laser printer is having the best results with the Duracotton 98 paper and I am going to go get it and start printing my shirts. Anyone Use the paper on their printer and not have any problems????


I doubt anybody here (except the maker) has tried this on more than one or two printers so you're unlikely to get this answered. Read through the posts again and pick out the success stories. You can even contribute by compiling them for us! 

You can start at Post #19. It has a successful setup description.


----------



## T-BOT

Also what makes this paper different and interesting is the claim of no trimming involved. 

As for printing on Black shirts i think its only a matter of time before WHITE toner comes into play. .....long over due mind you. Why is that anyone?


----------



## PT Studios

Ok.. what about.. like a pink shirt with black text? Or just colored shirts with text, no necessarily black shirts?


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

T-BOT said:


> Also what makes this paper different and interesting is the claim of no trimming involved.


The sample fabric I got with my pack of paper definitely had a box around the image. I was surprised to see it since I was expecting none. Is the no trimming claim holding up?



T-BOT said:


> As for printing on Black shirts i think its only a matter of time before WHITE toner comes into play. .....long over due mind you. Why is that anyone?


It's that pesky WHITE paper's fault. I mean, if we had just standardized on BLACK paper from the beginning, white toner would have been the standard.


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

PT Studios said:


> Ok.. what about.. like a pink shirt with black text? Or just colored shirts with text, no necessarily black shirts?


Same rules as inkjet transfers apply. If the printing is darker than the fabric, it will show. It will all depend on the color of the shirt and what you're trying to print. Black text on a pink shirt will show up fine. Pink on black... not so much.


----------



## PT Studios

right.. i see...


----------



## StackemHard

You told me to comnpile the findings and going though all the posts i found all the printers that were actually tested. Here are my findings and the results of those tests.


*T-Bot *- Hp laserJet 2600N - the Paper worked great in the printer according to thread.

*SciFiBri *- Using an Oki 3200. Paper feeds in the multi-tray, normal settings, color looks great. Pressing at about 405 degrees, med-heavy pressure, for about 15 secs. too much hotter or longer and scorching is an issue. I had been having trouble peeling, but the higher temp solved that. The images look great, I have washed a test shirt twice and there is little fading. It works great!

*Periscope* - I have a Lexmark C510 and it prints beautifully when set to Glossy mode. 

*Binki *- We received our paper and tried it out with a Minolta 3300 Magicolor and the results were pretty good.We did have some paper jams from the upper tray.

*Edwin98* - I am using a OKI 3200 and have printed and pressed 50 shirts without a problem. You must use the MP tray with Thick(heavy) paper setting.
We bought a Lexmark C500n and it works wonderfully.
I know that the HP 3550 works because we used one to print over 100 shirt samples.

*Mystic *- I have been trying out the Duracotten 98 on a Oki 5200 and are having the issue of the gray box.
Just purchased a Lexmark C500N and we are having some issues with paper jamming.

*Mrstitch* - I recently purchased the OKI 5500 and today, the Duracotton stuck to the fuser. 
HP2605 today. With small prints, the image was fine, but full page prints did not peel smoothly. I raised the temp to 425, but still had that problem. I then read Ken's notes and tried printing with the light glossy paper setting and the print came out perfect.

*Goodtease* -The first test was actually on an Epson Aculaser CX11NF Color Laser All in One Printer. I actually photo copied it on this one and it did a great job on the copy.
The next one was a HP 2605dn laserjet. I loaded in the Duracotton98 and presto...it came out. So again it didn't melt. However, I think this printer runs almost to the threshhold of the paper. It came out pretty curved and also it had I guess you would call bubbling??


----------



## Rodney

Wow, thanks for the summary Nicholas! I was getting confused with the different printers as well.

So it seems like the Oki 3200, Hp laserJet 2600N work for sure?


----------



## StackemHard

Thats pretty much what i found doing my research and the other printer that looks promising is the Epson 500 series!


----------



## edcruz

i've got 2 questions:
(1) Any of you guys printed A3 size duracotton98?
do you print it yourself or in some printing shops ?

(2) How much you paid for the duracotton98 a4/a3 per piece or 100 pack.

thx~


----------



## grumpster

Rodney said:


> Wow, thanks for the summary Nicholas! I was getting confused with the different printers as well.
> 
> So it seems like the Oki 3200, Hp laserJet 2600N work for sure?


The 3200 and 5200 have the same print engine. I haven't had any problems with jamming (except for user error) but, I do have the grey fog problem with my 5200. I know of one guy that hasn't had a problem with his OKI for some time then the problem started coming up. I think it's a crap shoot with the Oki's with this paper. As I understand it, it's the gloss on the paper that is causing the problem with with the grey fog on the 5200's. Hopefully, the next version has less gloss and will work better. Other than the fog problem, I like the paper. I can use it with good results on full coverage images, but not on anything with white edges due to the fog. Trimming is, at least in my case, still required. Thank goodness for my Roland.


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

AFAIK there's only one place to get it from in the states. Prices are here.


----------



## edwin 98

To All: After the First Jam on the OKI 3200 I started getting the gray around the image area. I contacted OKI and was tolk that was normal for their printers. I complained and asked why if it was normal why was it not on their web site. IT NOW IS See: http://www.okidata.com/mkt/downloads/OKIMediaFAQ.pdf. I hope that the new DuraCotton 98 HT being introduced at the Imprint Canada Show will work in my OKI 3200.

Edwin


----------



## edwin 98

Moo Spot Prints said:


> The sample fabric I got with my pack of paper definitely had a box around the image. I was surprised to see it since I was expecting none. Is the no trimming claim holding up?



Please accept my apologies - no sample should leave our facilities with an edge. Obviously, our quality was not up to speed that day. Like everyone out there, we make mistakes, and in the case of DuraCotton 98 when you make this mistake, the solution is easy. Please place the sample from us in the heat press (400 F degrees), place a sheet of teflon over the image and press for 3 seconds. HOT PEEL. 

The fabric sample is likely smaller than the teflon sheet - position a corner of the fabric outside the teflon. This will make it easier - without burning your fingers - to HOT PEEL.

Presto: your sample is now without edges.

Edwin


----------



## goodtease

Hello Everyone,

Well my Lexmark C530dn was delayed so it won't be here until next tuesday...  AHHHHH! Anyways, I will do some prints with the duracotton98 and post the photos.....have a high resolution camera..unless it melts to the fuser...which I will also post anyways...lol. But if all goes well then I will be wearing some of these at the Imprint Canada Show  Maybe saying " I use Duracotton98" haha....can I get a commission for that?

Anthony..


----------



## Gbeats

Ok, well I just got my sample of Duracotton 98 it arrived very fast I must say and my thoughts are you can still see the box it's noticeable and the colors are not that bright I will be washing tonight and tomorrow so I will keep you posted. This is the sample that came with my sample pack all I did was read the direction and press. The box is still less visible than any other that I have seen but visible none the less.


----------



## hammered

I was wondering if this has been tested on a thermal wax laser printer yet. Ive been looking at a Samsung CLP 300. Seem like a great printer. Just no need if the main reason Im buying a laser doesnt work. 

Thanks.


----------



## T-BOT

hammered said:


> I was wondering if this has been tested on a thermal wax laser printer yet. Thanks.


is that some other type of printer ?
sorry, i'm a printer tech knob.


----------



## hammered

So was I til I decided to get a laser to do transfers. Its one of what I understand to be two toner types. Samsung makes the CLP300 but not knowing if its capable to print the 98 papers. It would be nice since its low priced and super quiet.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi:

I would like to address the "colors are not that bright" comment (post #200) made by Gbeats.

DuraCotton98 does not impact color brightness. 

Color brightness is easily controlled by three (3) user-adjustable elements:

1. create all images etc (including bitmaps) in RGB, NOT cmyk colors.

2. reduce toner density.

Today, printer manufacturers configure their printers to look great on white paper. That means - heavy toner deposits. Heavy toner deposits cause dull looking graphics and heavy washout on t-shirts etc (many transfer brands). Heavy toner deposits also use more toner (costing you money).

Toner density can be controlled on many printers via either softwear or hardware settings. Postscript (c) printers also tend to print heavy density - I have heard the toner density of Postscript (c) printers can be controlled by some softwares (but certainly not with Corel).

If you are unable to control toner density with your equipment (and software) then consider Paint Shop Pro and adjust the Gamma.

Your objective is to reduce the toner printed onto DuraCotton98.

3. the third and least effecitve method to control density is via brighness and color saturation - preferably at the printer level (requires non-Postscript printer).

You may need to test each method, maybe even combine two or three methods, before jumping into to heavy production. These adjustments are quick, easy and one-time (be sure to save your settings).


Regarding "you can still see the box it's noticeable". When pressed as per the instructions on the AutoART website, you should not see the 'box'.

Please note: that if you can see the 'box', then DuraCotton98 is not pressed correctly. Incorrect pressing can impact the wash results.

have a great one!

Ken

ps these and other issues will be addressed on AutoART's revised website - with additional (new) DuraCotton98 products - following the Imprint Canada Show Jan 19, 20


----------



## edwin 98

Gbeats said:


> Ok, well I just got my sample of Duracotton 98 it arrived very fast I must say and my thoughts are you can still see the box it's noticeable and the colors are not that bright I will be washing tonight and tomorrow so I will keep you posted. This is the sample that came with my sample pack all I did was read the direction and press. The box is still less visible than any other that I have seen but visible none the less.


GBeats: Please read my response to Mo Sports Prints Number 198 on this thread. I think it will solve your problem. Also, Please, check out the latest insturctions at www.autoartusa.com

Edwin


----------



## hammered

To the 98 guys, does the paper work with thermal wax laser toner? Im looking at a great printer (cost, size and low noise great) and would want to spend the money if its not going to work with this paper.
The printer is the Sansung CLP300
Thanks


----------



## tonyholes

I use Duracotton98 pretty often. I have done over 125 shirts with these transfers. I use a HP 2600N and other than the light grayish background the transfers are excellent. So I have to cut out my images still. Hopefully that will change with all the development taking place. Based on this thread alone I feel confident that this product will only get better. 

Once the image is cut out and applied they look great. Even after they are washed over and over. 

I used the following setting and things work great. I have an old non digital Hix press. My temp shows around 410 degrees with fairly heavy pressure for 20-22 seconds. They peel very easily if peeled immediately. If not peeled immediately just reheat and then peel right away. 

If hand is felt just used the teflon sheet and reheat for about 6-10 more seconds. 

I am a very satisfied customer but I am looking forward to the future improvements.


----------



## Gbeats

OK after I washed Duracotton 98 I was not happy image didn't look that good as for pressing I used the sample that came with my sample pack that was already printed and I followed the directions and I don't like the results for me I will just stick to inkjet you getting a better look and just as good of a wash. The hand on duracotton was very nice but image quality is just not what I thought it would be.


----------



## alex63

Could you post some pics Gbeats?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave:

Regarding the Samsung CLP-300 and your comments, I have not found anything that says it is a thermal ribbon printer. In fact, the Samsung.com website describes as follows: "features the same exclusive NO NOIS print engine that's in our profesional series of color laser printers, for quiet operation and simple toner changes."

Rather than attempt to locate the fusing temp of the CLP-300, I will say:
1. The forthcoming DuraCotton98 HT should eleiminate melting and jamming issues in virtually all NON-OIL color laser printers and copiers.
2. Testing has began and so far, results are very encouraging. 

We will be introducing this paper at Imprint Canada, Jan 19, 20 and then it will shortly after be launched on our website. We are launching three - perhaps four new DuraCotton98 papers at the Show.

Of course, it remains very critical to all to properly test before commencing production. What we achieve in the lab may differ from what you actually attain in your shop.

With regard to thermal ribbon printers, I have reports that DuraCotton98 is working extremely well with the now-discountinued Alps.

have a great one!

Ken

ps for Oki users, *too* early test results have NO gray overcoat printed with DuraCotton98 HT.


----------



## goodtease

Alright Guys,

I got my Lexmark C530dn. It doesn't jam! It works great on the Glossy setting and I have been using the manual feeder in the front. I have printed about 10 sheets so far...so far so good.

The only thing is I can't seem to get the prints to have "no window" so if you guys have any suggestions on how to press it let me know. I have been doing it at 410 for 20 secs. 

But the printer works. So I guess that is what everyone was waiting for. So the Lexmark C530 series will work if you want to run out and get one.

Regards,

Anthony


----------



## edcruz

how much you got it for? c530 series are quite expensive.


----------



## Lnfortun

Sounds like the c530 model havie a big difference spec. wise as c510. Some 
member claims that c510 do not present any window. Sort of defeat the
purpose of having the benefit of the "No Window" using Duracotton 98. 
Or is there a solution using different printing and pressing technique using
c530?


----------



## edwin 98

Reply to goodtease: Anthony after talking to you on the phone I think what you are calling a window is the indentation made by the paper when you are pressing. You told me that there is no color on the window. If this is the only problem all you have to do is pull the shirt in both directions and the window will disappear. 

Also in the conversation I noticed you not using the latest instructions on how to press the DuraCotton 98 Transfer. Here are the instructions if you need more detailed please, go to DuraCotton 98 Heat Transfers, Sublimation Transfers, Transfer Cotton, Cotton t-shirt transfers

DuraCotton 98 INSTRUCTIONS:
TRANSFER COTTON or POLYCOTTON

One-Step Heat Pressing

Regular Color Laser Printer / Color Copier

1. Print 'read-wrong' to shinny side of DuraCotton 98
2. Do NOT pre-heat the target fabric
3. Press for 9 or more seconds, 400 F / 205 C or more degrees, medium + or more pressure. Settings vary by heat press and operator - be sure to thoroughly test before commencing production. Delay peel 1.5 seconds then peel diagonally quickly and steadily.
If there is a slight hand or roughness, overlay with Teflon (c) and press for 2 - 3 seconds. Hot Peel. To overcome hand or roughness - test increasing press temperature - some presses may require 5 - 15 F / 3 - 7 C degrees more temp. Increasing pressure also helps. Also try increasing time up to 15 seconds. Settings vary with equipment and operator.
If scorching of fabric occurs, overlay Teflon (c) during initial pressing.

I hope these thing correct the window you are seeing.

EDWIN 98


----------



## hyunokjoo

To: AutoArt guys and anyone who uses Duracotton98

What a great product it is! 
Duracotton98 is really awesome and it is now my #1 choice for all kinds of transfer paper.

However I have some question still being answered.
For me, I live in Korea and I use Xerox 4350 CLP (I think this machine is only available in Asia and it prints up to A3 size.)

There's no problem on printing Duracotton98 in this Xerox machine but I see paper window on the shirts whenever I press it.

I use manual press and its temp and time are set exactly on 230C and 18sec each. Below this temp and time, I can't even peel the paper on shirts, so this is minimum requirement for my press.

I tried teflon sheet and changed time and temp according to instruction but still no luck.

Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi OK JOO:

Thank you for the comments!

Try taking your temperature up another 5 C degrees. The Asian heat presses tend to have inaccurate temperature readings. Given that DuraCotton98 does not release below 230, I think you are right on the lower edge of acceptability. Crank up the temp, bring down your time to 12 - 14 seconds, (hot) peel in about 1.5 seconds.

Be sure to read above comments #214 from Edwin 98.

Good Luck!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## goodtease

edcruz said:


> how much you got it for? c530 series are quite expensive.


Edcruz,

Yah this printer cost with shipping about $618 dollars. But this is the duplex version. I bought it off the Best Buy Business website. They tend to have everything in stock. But I don't think you have to get the duplex.

Just an update. The Duracotton works great.....but with my Roland cutter. I still can't seem to get the window to disappear. I mean it is faint...but it drives me nuts since I want it to have absolutely NO window.

I am about to try some other methods and I am going to Imprint Canada this weekend...so I hope to gain some knowledge!


Ok Joo - Just wanted to say hello to my korean brother...lol. Well I am a whitewashed korean in nyc. 

Anthony


----------



## sraider

Anyone know anything about the Lexmark C532n printer??


----------



## PT Studios

I can't wait to hear all about the Imprint Canada show... I wish I could go.. just a little too far away... maybe next year.


----------



## goodtease

Ok Guys,

Just an update to try and figure out this faint window thing. So this is what I did.....I got a piece of the duracotton98 that had not been printed on and pressed it at 400 degrees and for 20 seconds. This was to see if I could see a window if I just did a blank sheet... Results? I had no window. Then I ran the duracotton98 through the LExmark 530dn with my logo....and printed it. I got a window. So conclusion is that when I run the duracotton98 through the printer I get a grey film....AHHHHHHHH!!! I tried all different settings and just started running blanks though the laser and the best setting was actually just on Plain paper setting...that seemed to be the LEAST greyish.

So conclusion is that no matter what if the printer is a little hotter then you get the grey window. I am thinking this is just due to the heat created by the fuser...

I was told by lexmark that this is exactly the same as the C510.....so I am not sure why I am getting the window.

I tried Glossy mode.
I tried thick stock mode
I tried plain paper setting - this worked the best with the least amount of grey tint.

Is there some setting I am missing?

I am using Adobe illustrator CS2 and the files are in RGB mode with the settings for the color on default with Illustrator.

So if anyone has ANY ideas if there is a way to possibly get rid of the Grey window then please let me know!!

At least I haven't had the paper melt to the fuser. If I use the duracotton98 with the Roland cutter the results are great...but I really don't feel like cutting everything. To much time 

Thanks guys!

Anthony


----------



## taurusndixie

This thread is getting a lot of attention. 
So, I might as well chime in to.

Has anyone tried the Okidata 3200, OEM toners with the duracotton paper ?
Does it leave a box or melt the paper to the fuser ?

Or has this been posted already ?

Thanks,

Don


----------



## edwin 98

I have a OKI 3200 and it worked for over 100 prints then I started to get gray dots in the non image areas. This problem has finally been posted on the OKI web site under the FAQ's. We have used the DuraCotton 98 HT with the OKI 5800 and it worked very well. When I get back from the Imprint Canada Show I will have samples of the DuraCotton 98 HT and I will run it through me OKI 3200 (Plain Toner) and I will let the forum know how it worked.

edwin


----------



## roxy923

Hello everyone! I am looking to print on 100% cotton shirts. Can I use this paper with Epson 1280 and sublimation dyes? Or does it have to be a laser printer?


----------



## Lnfortun

This is not a solution but maybe what could be happening in your printer.
The following was published by Okdiata regarding gray backgrounding. I know
Okidata is an entirely different breed of color laser printer. This what Okidata
have to say:

"Q2.	Why do you get gray background?
A2.	Gray background usually is associated with media that is very smooth or glossy. Some heavier card stock may also exhibit gray background. The toner transfer function is an electrostatic process requiring precise control of the voltage charging between the media and toner. Some media types, as above, disrupt this preciseness or add stray charges that cause unwanted toner particles to transfer to the media surface.

Q3.	Can we print on glossy media?
A3.	Basically yes, but because of possible background issues, we recommend that a small quantity of the media tried to see if it meets the customer’s needs. "

That being said I am puzzled as to why some printer model works with Duractton 98 if glossy media is the reason for gray backgrounding. The 
pre-printed sample of Duractton 98 I have tried was the testimonial that
Duracotton works with the right printer. No window, softhand, no cracking
and the color is vibrant. Now for me the big question is what printer to buy?

I own an Okidata C5200Ne and the majority of heat transfer I have tried have
gray background. Right now I have yet to use my printer to print tshirts. It is 
just not acceptable.

Waiting and hoping that the new Duracotton 98 HT would be the magic bullet
so to speek. That way I can put my Oki to work and not become a wasted
investment. Otherwise I would be looking for a different printer that will work
with Duracotton.


----------



## Lnfortun

edcruz said:


> how much you got it for? c530 series are quite expensive.


Here are a couple of links. One the home page for all kinds of printer and the other is the link for C530dn pricing. Don't look like it is quite expensive. Question is the does it print without a gray patch?

Actually it is cheaper than the price I paid for Okidata C5200Ne.

Home page:
http://search.superwarehouse.com/?

C530dn Page:
http://search.superwarehouse.com/?query=lexmark+c530


Luis


----------



## txmxikn

Any updates? How did the release of the new transfer paper at the trade show go? I'm new to all this and need to get me a good printer. After reading this thread I'm thinking of now going with a Laser printer. Hope to hear more good feedback about this paper.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Good Morning!

The Imprint Canada Trade Show allowed us to introduce three new papers: DuraCotton SUB (inkjet sublimation), DuraCotton OIL (fuser-oil based color laser printers and copiers) and DuraCotton _HT_ (non-oil color laser printers and copiers).

Notice: we have dropped '98' from our paper branding (just too much to say, especially at a show).

We printed hard for two days on an Oki 5500 - *no paper jams *and *no gray overcast*. Actually, we jammed twice when we mistakenly attempted to use DuraCotton OIL in the Oki.

There are four components to a great transfer (see the AutoART website for full details). The toner is one and the toner greatly influences the wash results.

Many people who stopped by the booth yesterday and today are washing like crazy. It will be interesting to learn of the wash results. So please do not run out and purchase a printer yet to use with the new DuraCotton HT paper. We all need to learn which printer (toner) washes best.

I will say that several show visiters thought that we were printing inkjet sublimation onto 100% polyester. The Oki prints and transfers on 100% cotton were equal to or better in color and vibrancy than sublimation on polyester. The color brought many browsers into our booth and converted them into very interested testers.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## binki

roxy923 said:


> Hello everyone! I am looking to print on 100% cotton shirts. Can I use this paper with Epson 1280 and sublimation dyes? Or does it have to be a laser printer?


Not with the laser paper. Take a look at a post below on the introduction of a dyesub paper.


----------



## edwin 98

binki said:


> Not with the laser paper. Take a look at a post below on the introduction of a dyesub paper.


Binki and Roxie 923: The new DuraCotton Sub is made as a 2 step transfer to 100% Cotton and 50/50 and all polycottons using ink jet sublimation. The first part is pressing DuraCotton Sub for 3 Seconds at 400 degrees F onto the shirt then taking your normal ink jet sub transfer and printing over the top of where the DuraCotton Sub was pressed. Use your normal ink jet sub release paper with the same time and pressure you would use pressing a poly shirt.
go to http://www.autoartusa.com for more information on the new papers

Edwin 98


----------



## Lnfortun

edwin 98 said:


> I have a OKI 3200 and it worked for over 100 prints then I started to get gray dots in the non image areas. This problem has finally been posted on the OKI web site under the FAQ's. We have used the DuraCotton 98 HT with the OKI 5800 and it worked very well. When I get back from the Imprint Canada Show I will have samples of the DuraCotton 98 HT and I will run it through me OKI 3200 (Plain Toner) and I will let the forum know how it worked.
> 
> edwin


Hi Edwin,

Did you have the chance to try out Duracotton HT on your C3200? I know you are busy. Just anxious to hear the result. Can't wait to start printing with my Okidata.


----------



## hyunokjoo

any new update for TransferDark? I was thinking you would introduce new TransferDark product at Imprint Canada Show.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Yes, we had hoped to show off the DuraCotton TransferDarks at Imprint Canada. Unfortunately, there just was not enough time to optimize the results.

DuraCotton TransferDarks is coming. A release date is not yet selected.

Our intention is to offer the WHITE toner at 'NO CHARGE' (there will be conditions which user-testers must agree to). The 'NO CHARGE' offering will continue through our user beta testing phase.

We will announce the offering here on the T-ShirtForums.com and our websites. 

have a great one!

Ken

ps please do not ask questions about TransferDarks until it is announced / released. Time spent answering questions will delay the release date.


----------



## edwin 98

lnfortun said:


> Hi Edwin,
> 
> Did you have the chance to try out Duracotton HT on your C3200? I know you are busy. Just anxious to hear the result. Can't wait to start printing with my Okidata.


I had a canch to print using the OKI 3200. The gray disappeared with DuraCotton HT. Due To a problem I have not had a canch to press the printed results. I will do so today.

Edwin 98


----------



## DuraCotton98

To Oki Users:

Based on very preliminary testing, DuraCotton HT may have resolved the issue of the gray overcast. We are expanding the number of testers.

We took an Oki 3200 that was definitely printing the overcast with DuraCotton 98. We then printed DuraCotton HT on that same printer. We pressed the results (as you need to press to white fabric to see the gray).

There was NO gray surrounding the color graphic on the white cotton.

The results are preliminary and not conclusive yet.

These results parallel those on Oki 5500 and 5800 models - both printed without gray.

We have yet to hear from Anthony and what occured when he printed DuraCotton HT with his Lexmark. 

have a great one!

Ken

ps with thanks to Edwin 98


----------



## goodtease

Well Ken,

Guess what?? I just got done with printing on my Lexmark C530dn....and.........NO GREY WINDOW!!!!! Yahoo!!

so result...

NO GREY WINDOW
Pressed at 395 on a Geo Knight Digital Combo at 395 for 20 seconds
on an american apparel classic girl tshirt. And it came out much better.

I printed on the lexmark using the manual feed and the Glossy mode. I only had 2 sheets of paper so that is all I could test. But if you guys want to send more I can run like 20 sheets through my printer to see if it continues without a window  

In conclusion the Lexmark C530dn works.

Thanks guys. Sorry I couldn't make the meeting but you know I had some better business to take care of  

Anthony


----------



## Lnfortun

DuraCotton98 said:


> To Oki Users:
> 
> Based on very preliminary testing, DuraCotton HT may have resolved the issue of the gray overcast. We are expanding the number of testers.
> 
> We took an Oki 3200 that was definitely printing the overcast with DuraCotton 98. We then printed DuraCotton HT on that same printer. We pressed the results (as you need to press to white fabric to see the gray).
> 
> There was NO gray surrounding the color graphic on the white cotton.
> 
> The results are preliminary and not conclusive yet.
> 
> These results parallel those on Oki 5500 and 5800 models - both printed without gray.
> 
> We have yet to hear from Anthony and what occured when he printed DuraCotton HT with his Lexmark.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken
> 
> ps with thanks to Edwin 98


The phrase in your post "We are expanding the number of testers." caught my eyes. Can I be one of the testers? Or at least get some preliminary reIease of sample papers. I own a C5200Ne which is very popular in TansferSolution Forum. This printer of mine is definitely a gray patch generator. I am very interested if HT will resolve my problem. That way I can move on with printing garments again.

Thank you.


----------



## mrstitch

Ken,
Well, for those of you who may remember, I purchased the OKI 5500 exclusively for the Dura Cotton 98 and due to numerous problems of fuser melting paper, gray overcast, etc, I returned that great printer and bought the HP 2605n, but now I'm only using Techniprint from Coastal. I would still like to return to the Duracotton, but the HT version and give you my experience if you need a beta tester for that printer.


----------



## edwin 98

All OKI users:
I used an OKI 3200 that was printing the gray box around the image when I was using DuraCotton 98. I printed using all the different settings for paper. I then pressed the samples on a white tee shirt using a Hotronics Press at 400 degrees F for 19 sceonds. I pealed the transfer and repressed using a teflon sheet for 3 seconds. I did not have the gray box around the image. Just to make sure I printed a DuraCotton 98 sheet and pressed that the same way. After the pressing cooled I had the gray area.
The best setting on the OKI for HT I found for pressing is medium or heavy paper. The one thing I know is every printer and press are different so check what your equipment will do using DuraCotton 98

Edwin 98


----------



## dtomme

Please help a noobie ... does anyone _(Ken?--you seem to be the go-to guy for DuraCotton)_ know if *DuraCotton transfers* will work on a *Xerox Phaser*? I'm in a high school classroom and I seriously doubt that the school will spring for a new laser printer but I REALLY want to try this product. We've been doing crappy inkjet transfers and this sounds SO much better...I would love for my students to be able to use them...

thx-Debra


----------



## DuraCotton98

dtomme said:


> Please help a noobie ... does anyone _(Ken?--you seem to be the go-to guy for DuraCotton)_ know if *DuraCotton transfers* will work on a *Xerox Phaser*? I'm in a high school classroom and I seriously doubt that the school will spring for a new laser printer but I REALLY want to try this product. We've been doing crappy inkjet transfers and this sounds SO much better...I would love for my students to be able to use them...
> 
> thx-Debra


Hi Debra:

Is your Phaser oil or non-oil? / How old is it (in case you do not know)

We will arrange sample paper for you to test

If non-oil, we must await for our DuraCotton HT inventory to arrive - our initial 1200 sheets did not go very far - about 2 weeks.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## dtomme

Ken-
I have called Xerox to check on the Phaser--it's non-oil and the printer is pretty new...about a year old. Can I contact the company (is that you?) to have a sample sent?
Debra


----------



## DuraCotton98

dtomme said:


> Ken-
> I have called Xerox to check on the Phaser--it's non-oil and the printer is pretty new...about a year old. Can I contact the company (is that you?) to have a sample sent?
> Debra


Hi Debra:

Please visit DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers - Transfer Cotton, Sublimate Cotton , select DISTRIBUTORS link and then choose the one closest to you. They will arrange verything for you.

have a good one!

Ken


----------



## goodtease

Ken did you see my post regarding the Lexmark?


----------



## Rodney

I almost bought a laser printer yesterday, but I wasn't sure which one would be compatible 

An inkjet is like $100 and a laser was around $250-$300 (not much more when you think about it).


----------



## DuraCotton98

goodtease said:


> Ken did you see my post regarding the Lexmark?


Sorry Anthony:

I was dancing in the streets with happiness!

have a great one!

Ken

twas a pleasure to meet you!


----------



## nadiboy

Im am considering using duracotton transfer paper. Anyone know how this process compares to DTG printing in terms of quality of the final product? For printing on white only.

Thanks.

Polu


----------



## SciFiBri

Hey
Haven't submitted for a while - life gets busy.
Hey Ken - if you need another tester for HT I have an OKI3200n which I also had the grey box with. Let us know when the paper comes, too. I still have a slug of the Duracotton 98, it'll have to wait for square box images.
Thanks


----------



## vctradingcubao

DuraCotton98 said:


> Good Morning!
> 
> The Imprint Canada Trade Show allowed us to introduce three new papers: DuraCotton SUB (inkjet sublimation), DuraCotton OIL (fuser-oil based color laser printers and copiers) and DuraCotton _HT_ (non-oil color laser printers and copiers).
> 
> Ken


Hey Ken! I'm using a Canon CLC1100. I beleive this one is a fuser oil type, and would like to test your DuraCotton OIL if you can send some samples. I'm in the Philippines and could apply to be your reseller here, especially now that you are about to release the DuraCotton for Dark SHIRTS. I could PM you my address if that's OK.


----------



## Law Dog

Who is selling the new DuraCotton HT? Or what is (and where to get) the 2nd best choice of transfer paper for laser printer onto 100% cotton? 

Thanks, Mark


----------



## periscope

I am a distributor for Duracotton papers. I have plenty of Duracotton 98 but am still waiting for the Duracotton HT. It should be here next week.


----------



## T-BOT

Law Dog said:


> Who is selling the new DuraCotton HT? Or what is (and where to get) the 2nd best choice of transfer paper for laser printer onto 100% cotton?
> 
> Thanks, Mark


WOW!!! lots new on this topic since my Maxing out time off the boad.

Try Ken at his website. There should be a list of distributors there.


woops, late post.

thanks for the info.

Can't wait to try the new Paper also.


----------



## edwin 98

Law Dog said:


> Who is selling the new DuraCotton HT? Or what is (and where to get) the 2nd best choice of transfer paper for laser printer onto 100% cotton?
> 
> Thanks, Mark


Mark: In the USA the only DuraCotton Reseller at present is Dye-Namic Images, LLC. Their web site is www.dye-namic.com

Edwin


----------



## CoolTech

Hello everyone!

I am an Oki C3200 user, and I am very interested in the HT paper. Is it out yet...

OMG, I feel like an addict who needs a fix... really bad. Lol


----------



## edwin 98

CoolTech said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am an Oki C3200 user, and I am very interested in the HT paper. Is it out yet...
> 
> OMG, I feel like an addict who needs a fix... really bad. Lol


Dye-namic Images, LLC will have DuraCotton HT by the end of Next week.

Web Site: www.dye-namic.com

Edwin


----------



## racinggrafx

I would love to start using duracotton 98, so a question for the experts, which is the least expensive color laser that will give me the best results?


----------



## DuraCotton98

racinggrafx said:


> I would love to start using duracotton 98, so a question for the experts, which is the least expensive color laser that will give me the best results?


Hi Jacky:

I am not sure what the least-cost laser printer is to run DuraCotton98. Printer prices vary by the 'hour' and geography. 

The Oki 5500 / 5800 print exceptional quality before and after washing. Use DuraCotton HT to avoid grey overcast on prints.

There are other printers priced lower that work wonderful - I have yet to see any beat the quality of the Oki's.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Jacky:
> 
> I am not sure what the least-cost laser printer is to run DuraCotton98. Printer prices vary by the 'hour' and geography.
> 
> The Oki 5500 / 5800 print exceptional quality before and after washing. Use DuraCotton HT to avoid grey overcast on prints.
> 
> There are other printers priced lower that work wonderful - I have yet to see any beat the quality of the Oki's.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


Jacky:

I have heard that the Samsung 300 color laser is working with DuraCotton HT. That has yet to be confirmed. I understand the Samsung sells for a few dollars only.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## taurusndixie

I would appreciate pics of transfers generated by this great paper, especially flesh tones.
I have a new oki and dyesub I was going to sell, but could change my mind if I knew
this paper would produce good skin tones.

Anyone ?

Thanks,

Don


----------



## edwin 98

taurusndixie said:


> I would appreciate pics of transfers generated by this great paper, especially flesh tones.
> I have a new oki and dyesub I was going to sell, but could change my mind if I knew
> this paper would produce good skin tones.
> 
> Anyone ?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Don


Don: DuraCotton HT is used both with Dyesub toners and Regular toners. The color profiles are different for them. Since, I use Regular toner my color profile is what the printer maker has in his driver. I have been told that if you use Dyesub toner you must run a special profile. I would suggest you go to www.dye-namic.com/ go to the contact page and request a free 2 sheet sample. I know they will send it to you and you can try the paper in your printer using your Dyesub toner. I know flesh tones work with DuraCotton HT on the OKI 3200 useing regular toner.

Edwin


----------



## DuraCotton98

taurusndixie said:


> I would appreciate pics of transfers generated by this great paper, especially flesh tones.
> I have a new oki and dyesub I was going to sell, but could change my mind if I knew
> this paper would produce good skin tones.
> 
> Anyone ?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Don


 
Hi Don:

Attached is a file printed on an Oki 5800 using regular OEM, printed on DuraCotton HT and pressed to 100% cotton (no pre-heat, 14 seconds, 400 F, 3/4 pressure on a lower-end manual press; peeled and overlaid with Teflon (c) for 3-4 seconds, hot peeled).

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## taurusndixie

Ken, thanks for the pic. Finally someone on all these message boards has portrait prints 
from a Oki printer. Colors look great ! Do you use any prep spray ? 
As I mentioned, I have the new Oki, but have not installed the dye toners yet. If dura cotton ,HT paper and OEM toners produce such great results why would I want to work with dyesub, 
unless dye sub produces a longer lasting print ?

Does the Oki 5800 produce higher DPI than the 3200 ?

Gotta order some of the HT paper.

Thanks Ken,


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Don:

Spray not required - just DuraCotton HT and Oki OEM toner - and a shirt, of course!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## CoolTech

Ken that image looks great! (drooling for HT!)

Has anyone used HT for mugs, or other promotional items?


----------



## PT Studios

I would also be very interested in what else this paper works on...


----------



## DuraCotton98

PT Studios said:


> I would also be very interested in what else this paper works on...


 
To date, we have not tried mugs - I have fear of the dishwasher. Duracotton HT is working on 100% cotton, polycotton blends, 100% polyester, uncoated wood and plastics, engravers metal.... twill, canvas, fleece, ..... tiles which do not go through the dishwasher should be fine (though I have yet to try).

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## CoolTech

hmmm then, perhaps a mug glazer may be needed. A small price to pay for sublimation/or better quality at such a low cost to image


----------



## taurusndixie

So, printing with OEM toners using the HT paper is like printing shirts with a Epson using durabrite inks, which the ink is deposited on top.
Printing with DYE TONERS using HT paper fuses the toner into the shirt, not on top.

Ken, it might be helpful to post the pros and cons of OEM toner vs DYE sub toner using HT paper. I for one would like to know what advatages one method has over the other and if the
expensive dye sub toner is really worth it.


thanks,

Don


----------



## DuraCotton98

CoolTech said:


> hmmm then, perhaps a mug glazer may be needed. A small price to pay for sublimation/or better quality at such a low cost to image


 
Jim:

That sounds like an idea that could work. Of course, the ideal would be to use uncoated mugs. Both coated and uncoated should be tested.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

taurusndixie said:


> So, printing with OEM toners using the HT paper is like printing shirts with a Epson using durabrite inks, which the ink is deposited on top.
> Printing with DYE TONERS using HT paper fuses the toner into the shirt, not on top.
> 
> Ken, it might be helpful to post the pros and cons of OEM toner vs DYE sub toner using HT paper. I for one would like to know what advatages one method has over the other and if the
> expensive dye sub toner is really worth it.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Don


Hi Don:


Hi Don:

When printing with OEM toner and DuraCotton papers (HT, OIL, 98), the OEM polyester toners and DuraCotton polymer fuse together and penetrate into the cotton. DuraCotton is not on top - otherwise you would feel it. Being inside the cotton (versus on top), provides improved protection during washing etc as well as the ZERO Hand - some refer to the technology as 'sublimation-like' on cotton.

AutoART appreciates the market is 100% cotton (and polycotton), not 100% polyester shirts. We wanted something that meets the needs of our customers- fast, afforable, good quality (including color), and easy to sell (to your customers).

Though AutoART sold two different dye sublimation brands in the 1999 - 2005 time frame, and knew the toners inside and outsde (all the pros and cons), I am really not qualified to comment re dye sub toner today.

We selected Regular OEM toner for several reasons: 1. color vibrancy on cotton (when pressed with our papers) is 'sublimation-like' + better blacks; significant improved wash durability (see above) 2. color accuracy - printed and pressed - including color consistency from cartridge to cartridge 3. a highly competitive market for OEM toners including stock at the local discounter - our prospects and users love the idea of being able to price shop for printers & supplies / running down to the local store to pick up toner instantly (in order to finish that rush job); most OEM toner - printer manufacturers offer NO-Charge overnight replacement of leaking toner cartridges 4. based on calls incoming to us, approximately 50% of interested parties in DuraCotton also need to print brochures, invoices, .... and really desire to use one printer to do so. With OEM toner, that means just changing the paper 5. printer warranty is significant - running OEM toner obviously does not void warranties (DuraCotton is in the process of being certified by printer - copier manufactuers so our paper does not void warranties). 6. now, rather than have all the printer manufacturers 'gunning' to knock us down, each one around the world is trying to help us and our customer base. Oki Canada & US have been wonderful, Canon Australia is soon to test DuraCotton HT on the imagePRESS c1 (litho quality photocopier); others are lining up to help out - with our users and application(s). and 7. in the case of emergency (power out, ...), any user of DuraCotton papers can run over to the local copy shop for printing. 

Overall, I believe the transfer operator - you - wins when using OEM toner with OEM color profiles (color accuracy) - lower cost structures, improved quality, more sales for you.

I believe the customer has the right to select which printer he / she prefers, and where to purchase it. 

I believe in an open, competitive market - where we all share information for the benefit of all (eg TShirtForums.com).

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## PT Studios

WOW Ken.. thanks so much for that information... this sounds really exciting. I think if I was sure of the quality on a Samsung CLP-300 or maybe HP 2600N (both around $300 CAD) I'd be sold!


----------



## CoolTech

Is the OKI C3200 non-oil, or Oil?

Never mind... I found out... non-oil... duh!


----------



## T-BOT

thanks Ken,

I missed the Toronto Show.

How was the response for your products at the show ?


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

You can get the Samsung 600N for $300-$350 (US) right now. Not sure why it's being discontinued. Print output is great and it's pretty fast. I'm waiting for my HT to test.


----------



## John S

If your looking for a color copier, Staples.com is offering some killer deals this week. (instant savings + mail in rebates) (I'm assuming this is US only but I don't know)

Oki 5800 is $200 off!

Staples.com®. that was easy®.

They have a few other Oki's on sale as well.


----------



## Dave_S

Hi All,

I am looking into getting a new laser printer, i currently use an epson c900, I have been looking at the Oki 5600, as I seen the Duracotton HT works well on the Oki 5500, does anyone know (Ken maybe?) if the HT will work with the 5600 ok too?, has there been any testers?

Getting excited to try this HT paper............!!

regards

Dave
England, U.K


----------



## taurusndixie

If the HT paper will allow OEM toners to transfer INTO the shirt fibers, then this rivals dye sub. I have a small order I was going to send out for screen printing, could the HT paper be useful for this ? 

You will have my order for HT paper in the morning.

Thanks,

Don


----------



## DuraCotton98

taurusndixie said:


> If the HT paper will allow OEM toners to transfer INTO the shirt fibers, then this rivals dye sub. I have a small order I was going to send out for screen printing, could the HT paper be useful for this ?
> 
> You will have my order for HT paper in the morning.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Don


Don:

Thank you!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am looking into getting a new laser printer, i currently use an epson c900, I have been looking at the Oki 5600, as I seen the Duracotton HT works well on the Oki 5500, does anyone know (Ken maybe?) if the HT will work with the 5600 ok too?, has there been any testers?
> 
> Getting excited to try this HT paper............!!
> 
> regards
> 
> Dave
> England, U.K


Dave:

Last week, another fellow in the UK asked the identical question. We contacted OKI UK and today received a 'non-answer'. As such, I suggest you contact Oki support direct and ask if the fusing temp of the Oki 5600 is the same as the Oki 3400, 5500 and or 5800 / ask if the toner is the same as well. In preliminary testing Oki's new toner (3400, 5500, 5800) is standing up better than the previous models (eg Oki 3200, 5100, 5200). If so, then DuraCotton HT will work very well.

Here is the contact at Oki UK

Mark Gumbs
Principle Technical Engineer 
Oki Printing Solutions
550 Dundee Road 
Slough,Berkshire
SL1 4LE 
Tel:01753 819800
Fax:01753 819853
[email protected] 

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

T-BOT said:


> thanks Ken,
> 
> I missed the Toronto Show.
> 
> How was the response for your products at the show ?


Hi Lucy:

Back from Florida - tanned and smiling - eh!

Imprint Canada gave us the opportunity to 'show off' the outstanding pressed colors on cotton of the DuraCotton HT - Oki combination. When (many) inkjet sublimation users wondered how our laser color (on cotton) was so much better than their sublimation (on polyester), we had to explain the entire process (color laser, one-step on 100% cotton, huge time and cost advantages, ...). The resulting sales alone justified the show!

When the first person (prospect) into the booth (day one), bought the show Oki printer - DuraCotton HT bundle; when we negotiated paper quantities of 5000 per month, 1200 - 1500 sheets monthly in another case, when ....

have a great one!

Ken

ps while writing this, I received verbally some great news: 1) one of the laser - copier companies has approved the paper for certification 2) DuraCotton HT should be in stock next Tuesday / Wednesday for both the US and Canada.


----------



## Dave_S

Thanks Ken for your reply, I will contact him via email and let you know his response. 

Many thanks again

Dave


----------



## vlcnmstr

when you say it works on mugs, and tiles, etc...
Does that mean color laser mugs or sublimaiton mugs and products?
I have previously purchased laser mug paper elsewhere, and paid through the nose for it. As I have a color laser, I thought it easier to try and use that rather than ramp up (and pay out for) to a sublimation setup.
I would LOVE to find a laser paper that works with regular toner on sublimation items... Oh please oh please oh please 
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> when you say it works on mugs, and tiles, etc...
> Does that mean color laser mugs or sublimaiton mugs and products?
> I have previously purchased laser mug paper elsewhere, and paid through the nose for it. As I have a color laser, I thought it easier to try and use that rather than ramp up (and pay out for) to a sublimation setup.
> I would LOVE to find a laser paper that works with regular toner on sublimation items... Oh please oh please oh please
> djl


Hi DJL:

Please, please .... we have not tried mugs as per entry #265.

CoolTech had a great idea (#266 I believe) trying a glazer with mugs. 

We, at AutoART, have NOT tried mugs - laser or sublimation coated - and do NOT have any thoughts as to which mug (laser, sublimation coated or uncoated) would be better. We suggest you try all three - with and without a glazer. DuraCotton HT would likely be the better paper to test.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## vlcnmstr

*slight change of topic*

It's just a bit off topic but does anyone know of local to Los Angeles heat press suppliers? for caps? I can order one on line, but would prefer to buy and support a local business if I can. 
thanks
djl


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: slight change of topic*



vlcnmstr said:


> It's just a bit off topic but does anyone know of local to Los Angeles heat press suppliers? for caps? I can order one on line, but would prefer to buy and support a local business if I can.
> thanks
> djl


 

I've been to Los Angeles many times but I too do not know of 1. ???

.... (1990-2002 i think) there was a company there in LA but they closed up shop.


----------



## vlcnmstr

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi DJL:
> 
> Please, please .... we have not tried mugs as per entry #265.
> 
> CoolTech had a great idea (#266 I believe) trying a glazer with mugs.
> 
> We, at AutoART, have NOT tried mugs - laser or sublimation coated - and do NOT have any thoughts as to which mug (laser, sublimation coated or uncoated) would be better. We suggest you try all three - with and without a glazer. DuraCotton HT would likely be the better paper to test.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


I have found with laser to mug transfer that the regulr cheap sub mugs work better than the laser specific mugs. Saves me money and time by only needing one stock item that can be used for both.
Now when I test it if this paper works for both -- 'bob's your uncle'!
djl


----------



## Rodney

> It's just a bit off topic but does anyone know of local to Los Angeles heat press suppliers? for caps? I can order one on line, but would prefer to buy and support a local business if I can


Best to start a new topic for off topic questions like that  It will get you a better response.


----------



## Dave_S

Ken & all interested,

I just recieved an email from Tech at Oki U.K, his response was that the Oki 5600 fusing temperature is the SAME as the 3400 and 5800 models, and the toner is the same as the 3400 and 5800 models too............. good news....

regards

Dave

BTW, just been looking at the Oki 3300 too, anyone know about this model and duracotton HT?


----------



## PT Studios

Just a curious question... I've used light inkjet trasfers on grey shirts... looks pretty good.. as long as your image doesn't have any white in it. Has anyone tried the duracotton on colored fabric? Say if you just wanted to put a graphic (without white) or text on a grey shirt?


----------



## edwin 98

PT Studios said:


> Just a curious question... I've used light inkjet trasfers on grey shirts... looks pretty good.. as long as your image doesn't have any white in it. Has anyone tried the duracotton on colored fabric? Say if you just wanted to put a graphic (without white) or text on a grey shirt?


Jay: I have imprited about 50 Ash 100% cotton T-shirts without a problem. I have done it with the Oki 3200, the Lexmark C510 and the QMS 6100 all using DuraCotton products. for the Oki I needed DuraCotton HT. For everything else I have used DuraCotton Oil. I do have a customer who has used DuraCotton SUB 2 part product on ash shirts without a problem

Edwin 98


----------



## PT Studios

Very cool...


----------



## Starpride

Has anyone used the DuraCotton HT with a non-oil Xerox Phaser; preferably a 7700? I know earlier in the thread a teacher was curious and going to attempt using the paper but I didn't find any posting as to her results. Curious if anyone else has used this paper with these printers. My 7700 runs HOT and only one other paper has worked with mixed results.


----------



## PT Studios

Hey all.. I just read on another thread that AutoArt may be looking into a white laser toner for use on the DuraCotton... is this a possibility? I've never understood why a company hasn't jumped on this bandwagon ages ago... I understand the complexity. But what a great idea, make a printer and ink that would be suitable for the imprintables industry. Maybe a large company like Epson couldn't care less... but a small company could make a fortune!


----------



## Shantiman

HI, at the risk of sounding stupid: how good is duracotton ht (for oki) on darker t's : green, navy, charcoal and black. Is it just a matter of trimming the transfer or is this not needed? Also on these dark colors can i only print transfers that do not contain any whites? 

Other question. What software do you guys use to prepare the printer? uptill now i have only heard people about using corel is it possible to use Photoshop and are there specific plug-ins for Photoshop?

Thanks a bunch for helping out.


----------



## numski

Jay,
I saw a while back here White Sublimation Laser Toner! that there is white toner around. I don't know if this is what AutoArt is looking into or not, they may be coming up with another solution...

-mark


----------



## PT Studios

lol.. yup Mark I posted that one


----------



## harkonnen

Is the C5250N non-oil, or Oil

cheers harkonnen


----------



## CoolTech

Wow!
I did a quick print from an image I was working on to a white shirt.

This image was nothing special. I didn't even mess with coloring. I just wanted to see what DuraCottonHT would do... amazing!

I pressed the transfer, did a reheat (nice soft hand) and then pressed some vinyl around it.

I can't wait for my order to come. I am ready to run with this stuff!


----------



## Lnfortun

CoolTech said:


> Wow!
> I did a quick print from an image I was working on to a white shirt.
> 
> This image was nothing special. I didn't even mess with coloring. I just wanted to see what DuraCottonHT would do... amazing!
> 
> I pressed the transfer, did a reheat (nice soft hand) and then pressed some vinyl around it.
> 
> I can't wait for my order to come. I am ready to run with this stuff!


Mark,

Which printer are you using?


----------



## CoolTech

lnfortun said:


> Mark,
> 
> Which printer are you using?


Okidata C3200... That image was just thrown to the printer without any additional imaging


----------



## T-BOT

CoolTech said:


> Wow!
> I did a quick print from an image I was working on to a white shirt.
> 
> This image was nothing special. I didn't even mess with coloring. I just wanted to see what DuraCottonHT would do... amazing!
> 
> I pressed the transfer, did a reheat (nice soft hand) and then pressed some vinyl around it.
> 
> I can't wait for my order to come. I am ready to run with this stuff!


 

wow Jim, that is nice.

Thanks for posting an actual transfer printed. That helps.


----------



## Dave_S

Looks good...........

Any news on when the new HT paper is arriving for sale?

Dave_S


----------



## Lnfortun

CoolTech said:


> Okidata C3200... That image was just thrown to the printer without any additional imaging


Jim,

What media weight and paper type settings did use? I have tried two sample HT's in my Oki printer and they both jammed. I had set mine on heavy and transfarency.

Luis


----------



## edwin 98

Dave S.: DuraCotton HT should be ready to ship to US customers by the Feb. 27 or before.

Luis: If you are using a OKI 5500 we found out that you must warm up the fuser by running 4 or 5 sheets of plain paper through the printer before using DuraCotton HT. At the Imprint Canada show they only did this once when they first started the day. Also I beleive they used the Medium Paper Setting. 

Edwin 98


----------



## CoolTech

lnfortun said:


> Jim,
> 
> What media weight and paper type settings did use? I have tried two sample HT's in my Oki printer and they both jammed. I had set mine on heavy and transfarency.
> 
> Luis


Normal and normal.

no changes to anything other than using the media tray instead of tray 1

---
Added:
Okidata C3200


----------



## steelpig

Hi Ken, have you heard of anyone successfully passing a sheet of Duracotton HT through an Epson C2600?

Any info on that model re: your products, would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Modes


----------



## DuraCotton98

steelpig said:


> Hi Ken, have you heard of anyone successfully passing a sheet of Duracotton HT through an Epson C2600?
> 
> Any info on that model re: your products, would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Cheers, Modes


Hi Modes:

We are located in North America. If Epson has any color laser in this marketplace, I am not aware. Sorry but the paper will need to be tested offshore.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

OOOOOPPPPSS!

Let us catch this early. The correct setting on the Oki 5500 is TRANSPARENCY. The printer needs to be warm - print 5 to 6 plain paper sheets before DuraCotton HT - otherwise it jams. Once warm it prints perfectly without jamming.

The Oki 5800 (virtually the same as the 5500) prints in HEAVY 28 - 32 lb - and prints at 15 pages per minute. Again the printer needs to be warm (see above) before using DuraCotton HT.

In our view, the Oki 3400, 5500 and 5800 print better color than the previous models, and the color is washing with exceptional durability - better color than the Alps, and durability may exceed the Alps - (original) DuraCotton combination. 

have a great one!

Ken

Exceptional results to date are printed on the Okis and Ricoh latest devices.


----------



## periscope

Dave_S said:


> Looks good...........
> 
> Any news on when the new HT paper is arriving for sale?
> 
> Dave_S


 
Duracotton HT will be available in Canada by Feb 28. We will also ship to the UK.


----------



## Lnfortun

edwin 98 said:


> Dave S.: DuraCotton HT should be ready to ship to US customers by the Feb. 27 or before.
> 
> Luis: If you are using a OKI 5500 we found out that you must warm up the fuser by running 4 or 5 sheets of plain paper through the printer before using DuraCotton HT. At the Imprint Canada show they only did this once when they first started the day. Also I beleive they used the Medium Paper Setting.
> 
> Edwin 98


Edwin,

I own a C5200ne. I am a bit confused because the tips and tricks section in AutoArt for Okidata printers the instruction states to set the media weight to heavy and paper type to thick stock or transfarency. The instruction that came with sample mentioned to go to AutoArt website for printing instructions.

BTW the samples I used came from you and greatly appreciated that. However, I was so excited could not wait to try it and I jumped the gun, when I tried them using the instruction that was in AutoArt website. The result? Both papers jammed on thick stock or tranfarency settings. I know the the paper works. The sample print you sent with HT papers was printed with C3200 Oki. I think it is a matter of how I set my printer driver. If I could just get the right combination. No transfer to try again though. I have to wait until the sample quantity for sale is available on Feb 27.

Luis


----------



## Law Dog

OK guys, now I am really confused. Well ok so I have been from the start. Made up my mind to go with OKI printers but wanted a little more insight on the different models. I called and waited, and waited and waited ( you get the picture) and finally talked to David who told me "we do not reccommend our printers for heat transfers because they run to hot" explained to him that a lot of professional praise these machinesand he followed with "they all call and complain eventually about the melting." Any further insight...

Thanks, Mark


----------



## DuraCotton98

Law Dog said:


> OK guys, now I am really confused. Well ok so I have been from the start. Made up my mind to go with OKI printers but wanted a little more insight on the different models. I called and waited, and waited and waited ( you get the picture) and finally talked to David who told me "we do not reccommend our printers for heat transfers because they run to hot" explained to him that a lot of professional praise these machinesand he followed with "they all call and complain eventually about the melting." Any further insight...
> 
> Thanks, Mark


Hi Mark:

Let us try and address your confusion:

We - AutoART - have tested DuraCotton HT heat transfer papers in conjunction with Oki Canada. Has enough testing been done yet - no! We have commenced the process of formally having DuraCotton HT paper tested by Oki (head office) NJ. If approved, the paper would be certified by Oki and your printer warranty would be valid.

Traditionally, transfer paper is not approved by OEMs and the printer warranty is void. Considering the low price of printers today ($200 + US$) and the profitable business opportunity associated with printing transfers, warranty issues have not stopped owners - users from printing transfers.

DuraCotton HT was created to withstand the high fusing temperatures of the non-oil printers, copiers. To date, one printer-copier OEM company has verbally certified the paper. More testing is underway - another company will undergo preliminary evaluation commencing next or the following week. 

By now, our users and ourselves (including AutoART distributors) have printed thousands and thousands of DuraCotton transfers on the Oki printers. To date, we are not having any printer issues (to my knowledge) - with one exception: the Okis do print a gray overcast with DuraCotton 98 (and many competitors' brands of transfer paper). This issue is overcome when using DuraCotton HT paper.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## Law Dog

Thanks Ken , That was the answer I was hoping for. I really like the things I am hearing about the duracotton - oki combination. One more question if I may press my luck. Keep in mind I fully understand you have nothing to do with Okidata printers, However, is there any light you can shed on the differences between 3200, 3400, 5500, and 5800 printers. I know that they have different print speeds but they are all 1200 x 600 dpi so theoretically thay should all print the same or am I missing something???? Again I understand if you can't answer. (Anyone! Anyone! Beullar! Beullar!)

Thanks Mark


----------



## vlcnmstr

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Modes:
> 
> We are located in North America. If Epson has any color laser in this marketplace, I am not aware. Sorry but the paper will need to be tested offshore.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


I went to the epson store online (north america version) and found two epson color lasers listed for current sale.
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/consumer/consDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=58311372

might get you there, if not, just go to the "store" and search color laser.
hth
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi DJL:

You are a better person than I!

This information helps but does not give us the final answer. We do require someone to really do some heavy printing - to identify the correct paper setting etc and then verify the quality after several hundred, if not thousands of prints.

We will keep our eyes open - I am sure someone in Asia will be testing for us all.

have a great one!

Ken

ps I am aware our earlier DuraCotton papers did print in an Epson color laser perfectly.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Law Dog said:


> Thanks Ken , That was the answer I was hoping for. I really like the things I am hearing about the duracotton - oki combination. One more question if I may press my luck. Keep in mind I fully understand you have nothing to do with Okidata printers, However, is there any light you can shed on the differences between 3200, 3400, 5500, and 5800 printers. I know that they have different print speeds but they are all 1200 x 600 dpi so theoretically thay should all print the same or am I missing something???? Again I understand if you can't answer. (Anyone! Anyone! Beullar! Beullar!)
> 
> Thanks Mark


Hi Mark:

What are the differences for a transfer operator like yourself?

The Oki 3200 uses an older toner. On my desk is a shirt printed on a 3200 - the colors are good as are the wash results. I am very pleased - this shirt was printed at the Charlotte Printwear Show, Oct 2006. So it has been washed lots. We were able to print approx. 12 pages per minute using DuraCotton98. Today we would recommend DuraCotton HT to overcome the gray overcoat issue.

The 3400, 5500 and 5800 Okis are virtually the same printer with exceptions: 
a) the 3400 is single sheet feed from the MPT and the capacity of the toner cartridges is small - driving up the cost of toner per print (transfer)
b) the 5500 runs in TRANSPARENCY mode - approx. 2 pages per minute (letter / A4 size)
c) the 5800 runs at full engine speed - about 15 pages per minute - with DuraCotton HT.
The 5500 and 5800 models have available larger cartridges with more toner - reducing the cost per print (transfer).

The Oki (3400 / 5500 / 5800) - DuraCotton HT bundle has achieved 'Sublimation-like' vibrancy and 'Alps-like' lasting color under limited wash-testing to date.

For those of you unaware of the Alps: AutoART orignally bundled Alps with DuraTrans paper (we co-developed with Wyndstone) and then further improved the quality with the original DuraCotton. That combination of color outlasted the shirt.

With 12 heavy laundry washes done, we are seeing 'Alps-like' lasting color. We are continuing to wash and upload images as we go. Currently 1 and 12 wash images are posted. Many 'industry-people' stop testing at 10 - 12 washes. We are continuing on. 

We tend to evaluate a printer or copier more in terms of great color, vibrancy and wash durability rather than resolution, pages per minute, printer prices, .... The Oki 3200, 3400, 5500 and 5800 feature excellent color accuracy and vibrancy - right out of the box - and what appears to be be incredible color wash durability. We do find the 3400, 5500 and 5800 to be slightly better than the 3200 in wash performance. All print without jamming using DuraCotton HT.

Hope that helps!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

lnfortun said:


> Edwin,
> 
> I own a C5200ne. I am a bit confused because the tips and tricks section in AutoArt for Okidata printers the instruction states to set the media weight to heavy and paper type to thick stock or transfarency. The instruction that came with sample mentioned to go to AutoArt website for printing instructions.
> 
> BTW the samples I used came from you and greatly appreciated that. However, I was so excited could not wait to try it and I jumped the gun, when I tried them using the instruction that was in AutoArt website. The result? Both papers jammed on thick stock or tranfarency settings. I know the the paper works. The sample print you sent with HT papers was printed with C3200 Oki. I think it is a matter of how I set my printer driver. If I could just get the right combination. No transfer to try again though. I have to wait until the sample quantity for sale is available on Feb 27.
> 
> Luis


Hi Luis:

Today a lady in Quebec tested DuraCotton HT on her Oki 5200. It worked beautiful. Her settings were as per Edwin 98 - 19 to 27 lb paper. The AutoART site now shows the same settings.

have a great one!

Ken

ps do 5 - 6 prints to warm up the printer before commencing with DuraCotton HT.


----------



## Lnfortun

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Luis:
> 
> Today a lady in Quebec tested DuraCotton HT on her Oki 5200. It worked beautiful. Her settings were as per Edwin 98 - 19 to 27 lb paper. The AutoART site now shows the same settings.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken
> 
> ps do 5 - 6 prints to warm up the printer before commencing with DuraCotton HT.


Hi Ken:

Thank you. I talked to Edwin about the setting of media weight after I ruined the 2 samples he sent me. I do not have HT to try again. Feb. 27 seems like forever. It has got to work with my printer. It works for others. My printer can't be unique.

BTW you did not mention the paper type. Is it bond, recycled, plain .... etc.? I can't remember what type Edwin told me.

I checked your website. I noticed you have the info in the paper settings page but it did not carry over to Oki tips and tricks page. That is where I looked first since my printer is an Oki.

Next time I will purchase the sample quantity come Feb. 27, that way I will have plenty to play with and know what to try settings wise.

Thanks again.

Luis


----------



## larry30000

HT printed & transferred perfect with my Konica Minolta Magicolor 2430DL.
After the first wash, had at least 50% fade  .


----------



## JonWye

Man, this becoming a long thread. 

Anyone tested Duracotton98 on a Konica Minolta BizHub 350, or something int he bizhub range. I have access to one at my office.


----------



## vlcnmstr

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98 an aside on ALPS*

I have an olde ALPS 5000. I was told that they were discontinued (soon after the store convinced me it was the "technology of the future!") and they stopped carrying supplies. so it sits waiting for only very special jobs (I print my business cards on it with marbled paper and the gold foil ribbon) and the occasional sublimation as I got a few of the sub ribbons before they stopped them.

Are supplies available? Probably should ask around but also what kind of paper transfer is used with it? The specs say coated papers will damage the ribbons and aren't these all coated papers?
thanks
djl
(who may just resurrect the old gal)


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98 an aside on ALPS*



vlcnmstr said:


> I have an olde ALPS 5000. I was told that they were discontinued (soon after the store convinced me it was the "technology of the future!") and they stopped carrying supplies.


You did make it out the door with the item, so they were somewhat correct... lol (sorry)


vlcnmstr said:


> so it sits waiting for only very special jobs (I print my business cards on it with marbled paper and the gold foil ribbon) and the occasional sublimation as I got a few of the sub ribbons before they stopped them.
> 
> Are supplies available? Probably should ask around but also what kind of paper transfer is used with it? The specs say coated papers will damage the ribbons and aren't these all coated papers?
> thanks
> djl
> (who may just resurrect the old gal)


Yes, all transfer papers are coated. My other business is computer repair, printer repair and networking... You have a boat anchor on your hands... Give her a decent burial.

Someone contacted me via PM and said they had a line on the OKI C3200 (new) for $199.00 . Perhaps they would be kind enough to post where that deal is possible. ???


----------



## DuraCotton98

larry30000 said:


> HT printed & transferred perfect with my Konica Minolta Magicolor 2430DL.
> After the first wash, had at least 50% fade  .


Hi:

The issue with KM printers and copiers is addressed on the AutoART website. Despite the fix, KM equipment is not recommended with DuraCotton papers - KM simply puts down too much toner for the paper to protect.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## larry30000

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi:
> 
> The issue with KM printers and copiers is addressed on the AutoART website. Despite the fix, KM equipment is not recommended with DuraCotton papers - KM simply puts down too much toner for the paper to protect.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


Big Ed told me basically the same thing. So your saying if there was less toner on the transfer it could work.


----------



## vlcnmstr

*HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*

hi,
got the sample of the HT today, and ran it through the printer. 
seems the toner "slipped"? in the attched photo the shiney areas show where the toner didn't stick, but it did deposit it down the sheet -- you should just see it near the bottom.

Is this too hot? too cold? should the printer be set for thicker paper?
Don't want to waste the second sheet til I get pointed in the right direction.

thanks
djl


----------



## CoolTech

That looks like it baked to the fuser, and came off the fuser on the next roll around.


----------



## T-BOT

larry30000 said:


> HT printed & transferred perfect with my Konica Minolta Magicolor 2430DL.
> After the first wash, had at least 50% fade  .


I think the Fade Hang up has always been a problem with digital transfers.

What we did when these digital photo transfers were being made by the truck load and delivered to mega chain retailers across north america was calibrate the toner/equip., adjust and clean the drums every 10,000 made, made sure the room hummidity was stable and pump up the toner release so you would end up with more of it on the shirt. 

that sure helped the fading, but still, digital transfer even today lack in comparison to plastisol for example.

....but who knows, all it takes is one guy/gal to come up with something new, then all will follow as they have since the early 90's with the Magic of Digital CLC/CLP.

here, have a look at a nice jumbo size transfer in the Government of Ontario Art Collection: Government of Ontario Art Collection: Einstein and Sitting Bull, [ca. 1991] - Carl Beam

Q: Are there any digital transfers being made today that do not fade, or as much as the one (HT) you printed on your home printer ? 
if so, can you post the companies that make them and what Brands use them ?

...curious how the HT compares to others at this point.


----------



## vlcnmstr

*Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*

ok, I found a new way to buy a printer......... so never mind the last post that printer is well, dead.

As it didn't work on plain paper, I set to thick paper.
THe transfer paper evidently doesn't like that as it jammed. real good.
REAL good. It wrapped around the drum and stuck. Permanently.

Ok, being the optimist, 
What's the best printer "now", to work with transfer paper? Either dura cotton or others?
I need regular printing of course and duplexing. My budget wasn't thinking of replacing the printer right now, but as it's the drum that is "factory screwed in" rather than one of the slide in (transfer or imaging) I am guessing it's more than the printer's worth to get fixed. As well, it was just about time to replace the cartridges of toner, so repairs plus toner-- might as well buy a new one these days for that price.

SO, what's reasonable and servicable?
argh, whimper,whimper.
djl


----------



## Solmu

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



vlcnmstr said:


> THe transfer paper evidently doesn't like that as it jammed. real good.
> REAL good. It wrapped around the drum and stuck. Permanently.


I still don't get how there can be so many of these stories, _and_ so many people eager to beta test a product that isn't ready for mass production.

Maybe if a paper keeps destroying people's printers it's not the printers that are at fault...


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: Printers*



Solmu said:


> I still don't get how there can be so many of these stories, _and_ so many people eager to beta test a product that isn't ready for mass production.
> 
> Maybe if a paper keeps destroying people's printers it's not the printers that are at fault...


 
But in this post and others people have done ok with the printing end.



larry30000 said:


> HT printed & transferred perfect with my Konica Minolta Magicolor 2430DL.
> After the first wash, had at least 50% fade  .





> I think the Fade Hang up has always been a problem with digital transfers.
> 
> What we did when these digital photo transfers were being made by the truck load and delivered to mega chain retailers across north america was calibrate the toner/equip., adjust and clean the drums every 10,000 made, made sure the room hummidity was stable and pump up the toner release so you would end up with more of it on the shirt.
> 
> that sure helped the fading, but still, digital transfer even today lack in comparison to plastisol for example.
> 
> ....but who knows, all it takes is one guy/gal to come up with something new, then all will follow as they have since the early 90's with the Magic of Digital CLC/CLP.
> 
> here, have a look at a nice jumbo size transfer in the Government of Ontario Art Collection: Government of Ontario Art Collection: Einstein and Sitting Bull, [ca. 1991] - Carl Beam
> 
> Q: Are there any digital transfers being made today that do not fade, or as much as the one (HT) you printed on your home printer ?
> if so, can you post the companies that make them and what Brands use them ?
> 
> ...curious how the HT compares to others at this point.


 
Is there Not a list of Printers that work well with this NEW paper ?

I would think that by having a printer performance list would indicate to users what printers are compatible.


----------



## Solmu

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



T-BOT said:


> But in this post and others people have done ok with the printing end.


There's definitely a lot of success stories / very happy people.

It just seems to have an awfully high rate of failure, and in this case failure doesn't just mean didn't work, it can mean "destroyed my equipment".


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



Solmu said:


> I still don't get how there can be so many of these stories, _and_ so many people eager to beta test a product that isn't ready for mass production.
> 
> Maybe if a paper keeps destroying people's printers it's not the printers that are at fault...


In the 328 responses on this thread, there are only a small few who are reporting bad experiences.

We don't even know what printer vlcnmstr is using. I don't recall any mention of that.

I know from experience that I have had to tear paper away from my CLP fuser and run clean paper through it 8-10 times to clean it after using "Tested" paper. This was done in order to clean the fuser enough to print a regular document. On the other hand, the two sheets of HT that I received printed and transferred without incident and look great on the substrates.

Mountain... Mole Hill. My opinion (and everyone knows what an opinion is worth) is that it is not the "product that isn't ready for mass production"... AS WITH ALL CLC/CLP paper, you need to test it on YOUR printer to be sure it will operate as expected. 

That said, I have 96 sheets of "Laser Tech (TM)" That will not run through my laser printer


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



Solmu said:


> There's definitely a lot of success stories / very happy people.
> 
> It just seems to have an awfully high rate of failure, and in this case failure doesn't just mean didn't work, it can mean "destroyed my equipment".


Only destroyed equipment becuase he did not remove the fuser (not the drum) soon enough to remove the residue. It may still be accomplished if the paper is removed, and a few sheets of regular paper are run through the printer to remove the residue left by the "melting"


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: Consistancy*



Solmu said:


> There's definitely a lot of success stories / very happy people.
> 
> It just seems to have an awfully high rate of failure, and in this case failure doesn't just mean didn't work, it can mean "destroyed my equipment".


Tell me about, I was exited, I went out and purchase an off the shelf printer to try it myself.....and let me tell you I was nervous to try it too. But I closed my eyes, what the heck, and tried it.

The problem is that I'm spoiled by our XEROX CLC and XEROX paper. It works everytime, big sheets 11x17, and you fill up the tray and out they come at the other end.

I guess XEROX is a brand....like I was asking before. dUH! ...now who actually make the Xerox paper I don't know.

As for the failiure part, I would say go with the CLP that members have posted success stories. The one I got is Big, Slow, and the paper comes out warpped like. Nothing like the XEROX...nice and straight.


But then again, DIGITAL transfers is not what I do for a living really....Plastisol remember ?


----------



## Solmu

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



CoolTech said:


> In the 328 responses on this thread, there are only a small few who are reporting bad experiences.


There are only a small few reporting good experiences too, most of the thread is questions and answers. I haven't bothered to go through and sort, but I'd estimate it's about 50/50 good experiences and bad.



CoolTech said:


> We don't even know what printer vlcnmstr is using. I don't recall any mention of that.


Maybe I have high standards, but I just don't feel like it matters. I don't think paper should be destroying your printer.



CoolTech said:


> Mountain... Mole Hill. My opinion (and everyone knows what an opinion is worth) is that it is not the "product that isn't ready for mass production"...


The product isn't ready for mass production, or it would be being produced, wouldn't still be under development, etc. I'm not just saying that because I personally don't think it's ready (though I don't), I'm saying that because it is still in its testing phase.



CoolTech said:


> AS WITH ALL CLC/CLP paper, you need to test it on YOUR printer to be sure it will operate as expected.


Sure, I'd just personally hope that when it doesn't work to a customer's satisfaction that would be because the colours weren't bright enough, or patchy, or etc. rather than because it destroyed your printer (vlcnmstr isn't the only person this has happened to). I wouldn't have thought equipment destruction was a standard thing to have to worry about in the CLC world, but given how unconcerned people seem to be about it maybe I'm the crazy one.


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhh*



Solmu said:


> There are only a small few reporting good experiences too, most of the thread is questions and answers. I haven't bothered to go through and sort, but I'd estimate it's about 50/50 good experiences and bad.


Estimations in a forum are on par with opinions.




Solmu said:


> Maybe I have high standards, but I just don't feel like it matters. I don't think paper should be destroying your printer.


Based on your opinion (and, we all know what opinions are worth), the printer is destroyed... In fact it is not.



Solmu said:


> The product isn't ready for mass production, or it would be being produced, wouldn't still be under development, etc. I'm not just saying that because I personally don't think it's ready (though I don't), I'm saying that because it is still in its testing phase.


Much like Microsoft's Vista, or Mac XII, or any number of other products that are on the virge of being released? Are you using Windows 98, or Mac X?



Solmu said:


> Sure, I'd just personally hope that when it doesn't work to a customer's satisfaction that would be because the colours weren't bright enough, or patchy, or etc. rather than because it destroyed your printer (vlcnmstr isn't the only person this has happened to). I wouldn't have thought equipment destruction was a standard thing to have to worry about in the CLC world, but given how unconcerned people seem to be about it maybe I'm the crazy one.


Maybe... Only time will tell


----------



## T-BOT

I still have faith that Ken (the inventor of this paper) is on to something. Its not an easy job breaking new ground claiming ZERO HAND, ZERO TRIMMING...etc.. this is a long step in CLC/CLP paper media.


----------



## vlcnmstr

it's the samsung color laser 500.
I opened the cover and found a sticker that says the temp is 356 F.
so, hope that helps someone.

As it's past warranty and either torn down or thrown out, I am going to take it apart and see if it can be salvaged. If not, trash gets picked up first of the week.....


----------



## vlcnmstr

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton98 argh update*

ok,
the roller is a bit worse for wear, chewed on the ends, hopefully it will power up and print. The transfer, after having fused on itself and cooling -- as I couldn't handle the very hot fuser -- was brittle, and fused layer to layer on itself, front to back. A phillips head screw driver and one of those "freebie" coupon cutter razors, the paper is off.
hold on, I will see if it works.

........
alright, minor success!!!
except for where there is a gouge in the roller which leaves a bit of a blur... and the fact the yellow toner is finally empty, it seems that the samsung it tougher than I thought.
so, not wanting to do this again -- is there a good but cheap laser that is known to work with the laser transfers that could be gotten and used soley for that?
Sorry to have "arghed" before-- but I saw my printing life pass before my eyes when it happened.
djl


----------



## harkonnen

*Re: Printers*



T-BOT said:


> Is there Not a list of Printers that work well with this NEW paper ?
> 
> I would think that by having a printer performance list would indicate to users what printers are compatible.


ok this sounds like a good idea, lets simplify things a bit, it works on this printer with these settings. it's a start.


----------



## Mystic

*Re: Printers*

Is there Not a list of Printers that work well with this NEW paper ?

I would think that by having a printer performance list would indicate to users what printers are compatible.[/quote]


If you go to Dye-Namic.com then you will see the list of printers that they have tested with this paper and instructions on how to use the printers. 

Here is some info they had on the website.

Laser Printers Tested and Working with Invisible AutoART DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers: 

HP 2600, 2605, 3550. 4500, (some will use oil others HT) 
Oki 3100, 3200, 5150, 5200, 5500, 5800 (all HT) 
Alps 5000 HT 
Minolta 61xx Oil 
Tally 8006e (Oil), 8008e (HT) 
Lexmark C510 (Gloss Mode Oil) C530 (Gloss Mode HT), C532 (Gloss Mode HT), C720, 
Brothers 26xxCN (Oil), Brothers 27xxCN (HT) All Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is THICK STOCK / THICK PAPER
All NON Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is PLAIN PAPER or Transparency​ We have found that the same printer will work in one area of the US and not another.​Hope this helps!


----------



## vlcnmstr

well, I tried transfering the one transfer I did get printed (the one with the slided (sp?) toner) onto some plain muslin rather than a good shirt.
It transfered fine, good peel, but there is a definite hand/plastic box from the entire page. I re pressed it with the teflon sheet as suggested, and there is still a complete stiffness of hand in the fabric. Perhaps as it is plain cotton not a knit, it behaves different.
Does anyone else have experience with plain goods aside from the knits?


----------



## AbbieRoad

Does anyone know if you would be able to take the pictures and your designs to a place like office max or Staples and have them print it on their machines? (or any commercial printer you know of)
I know you can bring your own cardstock to those places and they'll print on it for you ........

Would that work?

Thanks
Abbie


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: Printers*



Mystic said:


> *LIST OF PRINTERS THAT HAVE BEEN REPORTED TO USE WITH THE PAPER*
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Here is some info they had on the website.
> 
> Laser Printers Tested and Working with Invisible AutoART DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers:
> 
> *HP 2600, 2605, 3550. 4500, (some will use oil others HT) *
> *Oki 3100, 3200, 5150, 5200, 5500, 5800 (all HT) *
> *Alps 5000 HT *
> *Minolta 61xx Oil *
> *Tally 8006e (Oil), 8008e (HT) *
> *Lexmark C510 (Gloss Mode Oil) C530 (Gloss Mode HT), C532 (Gloss Mode HT), C720, *
> 
> *Brothers 26xxCN (Oil), Brothers 27xxCN (HT)*All Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is THICK STOCK / THICK PAPER​
> All NON Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is PLAIN PAPER or Transparency​
> We have found that the same printer will work in one area of the US and not another.​Hope this helps!


 

Thanks Mystic.


----------



## PT Studios

For all those watching this thread as closely as I am check out their website. It might just be new to me I haven't been to the AutoArt site in a couple of weeks but, it appears to be updated with some sample pics and such. Go now, yes right now, no no no don't go look at something else go to th... hey hey HEY!


----------



## edwin 98

AbbieRoad said:


> Does anyone know if you would be able to take the pictures and your designs to a place like office max or Staples and have them print it on their machines? (or any commercial printer you know of)
> I know you can bring your own cardstock to those places and they'll print on it for you ........
> 
> Would that work?
> 
> Thanks
> Abbie


Abbie: We have taken things to Kinko's and used both their Xerox DocUcolor 12 with DuraCotton oil and their Xerox DocUcolor 250 with DuraCotton HT. The prints are good and the Pressing of the images are great. The wash tests on the DocUcolor 12 is good and on the DocUcolor 250 it is wonderful. You have to play with the contrast, Brightness & Saturation a little to get the best wash results.

Edwin


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*



vlcnmstr said:


> hi,
> got the sample of the HT today, and ran it through the printer.
> seems the toner "slipped"? in the attched photo the shiney areas show where the toner didn't stick, but it did deposit it down the sheet -- you should just see it near the bottom.
> 
> Is this too hot? too cold? should the printer be set for thicker paper?
> Don't want to waste the second sheet til I get pointed in the right direction.
> 
> thanks
> djl


Hi DJL:

Did you touch the toner after fusing? Was it loose or scratch off easily? If so, then more time in the fusing process is required - go to a thicker stock.

I see nothing to indicate that anything is wrong with the fuser. It does NOT appear damaged.

Which printer do you have? What paper setting did you use? Did you go to the AutoART site and check Paper Settings?

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Lucy:

DuraCotton HT is washing with exceptional lasting color. Based on what we have seen to date, it is highly likely the color will be outlasting the cotton - just like we used to have with the Alps.

Of course, one needs the right printer / copier toner to use with DuraCotton HT. Check the autoART website for recommended printers - copiers.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: Consistancy*



T-BOT said:


> Tell me about, I was exited, I went out and purchase an off the shelf printer to try it myself.....and let me tell you I was nervous to try it too. But I closed my eyes, what the heck, and tried it.
> 
> The problem is that I'm spoiled by our XEROX CLC and XEROX paper. It works everytime, big sheets 11x17, and you fill up the tray and out they come at the other end.
> 
> I guess XEROX is a brand....like I was asking before. dUH! ...now who actually make the Xerox paper I don't know.
> 
> As for the failiure part, I would say go with the CLP that members have posted success stories. The one I got is Big, Slow, and the paper comes out warpped like. Nothing like the XEROX...nice and straight.
> 
> 
> But then again, DIGITAL transfers is not what I do for a living really....Plastisol remember ?


 
Hi Lucy:

If memory serves me correctly, you have DuraCotton 98 paper. You need DuraCotton HT to withstand the higher fusing temp of your printer.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## edwin 98

*Re: Consistancy*



T-BOT said:


> Tell me about, I was exited, I went out and purchase an off the shelf printer to try it myself.....and let me tell you I was nervous to try it too. But I closed my eyes, what the heck, and tried it.
> 
> The problem is that I'm spoiled by our XEROX CLC and XEROX paper. It works everytime, big sheets 11x17, and you fill up the tray and out they come at the other end.
> 
> I guess XEROX is a brand....like I was asking before. dUH! ...now who actually make the Xerox paper I don't know.
> 
> As for the failiure part, I would say go with the CLP that members have posted success stories. The one I got is Big, Slow, and the paper comes out warpped like. Nothing like the XEROX...nice and straight.
> 
> 
> But then again, DIGITAL transfers is not what I do for a living really....Plastisol remember ?


Lucy:We have taken things to Kinko's and used both their Xerox DocUcolor 12 with DuraCotton oil and their Xerox DocUcolor 250 with DuraCotton HT. The prints are good and the Pressing of the images are great. The wash tests on the DocUcolor 12 is good and on the DocUcolor 250 it is wonderful. You have to play with the contrast, Brightness & Saturation a little to get the best wash results. Both of these CLC's use 11 X 17 or A3 Paper.

Edwin


----------



## vlcnmstr

*Re: HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi DJL:
> 
> Did you touch the toner after fusing? Was it loose or scratch off easily? If so, then more time in the fusing process is required - go to a thicker stock.
> 
> I see nothing to indicate that anything is wrong with the fuser. It does NOT appear damaged.
> 
> Which printer do you have? What paper setting did you use? Did you go to the AutoART site and check Paper Settings?
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


 
hi,
no, I didn't touch the toner or scratch it off-- if you look at the picture I posted you can see the "shiny parts" where there is no toner (i guess it's shiny because of the flash reflecting on the bare paper). The same "toner parts" are somehow deposited further down the paper near the bottom. All the toner seems to be well stuck to the paper, and it transfered wonderfully, leaving only a small amount on the paper when done. as my other posts indicate though, when the thick paper setting was used, it was a disaster for the printer and took several hours to take it apart and clean it to a point where it can be used again. The sticker insid the printer says "caution 356 degrees (F)" so I am guessing that's the fuser temp.
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi DJL:

Today, someone called who has a Samsung 510 - with a duplexer - but I suspect identical to your 500 when it comes to transfers. We have agreed to test the printer on either Wednesday or Thursday. We will test both 98 and HT DuraCotton heat transfer papers. We will play with settings. We will let you know the results.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

Samsung 600N works. Normal paper settings. I only had 2 sheets to play with but they both printed just fine. 

Pressing them was another matter altogether. I ended up with a goopy mess. I'm waiting for more paper to experiment some more and try to figure out what I did wrong. I've pressed the 98 paper without issues. I suspect it has to do with the higher melting temp for the HT. Maybe my press wasn't hot enough?

Btw, can we start a separate thread for the HT paper? This one's getting to be obnoxious to wade through!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Moo Spot Prints said:


> Samsung 600N works. Normal paper settings. I only had 2 sheets to play with but they both printed just fine.
> 
> Pressing them was another matter altogether. I ended up with a goopy mess. I'm waiting for more paper to experiment some more and try to figure out what I did wrong. I've pressed the 98 paper without issues. I suspect it has to do with the higher melting temp for the HT. Maybe my press wasn't hot enough?
> 
> Btw, can we start a separate thread for the HT paper? This one's getting to be obnoxious to wade through!


Hi Jose:

Based on your words, sounds to me that your heat press was cool when you went to heat press. DuraCotton 98 and DuraCotton HT press virtually the same - in fact, HT likely presses slightly easier. 

So, just up your heat press about 5 F / 3 C degrees.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## vlcnmstr

from what I understand the samsung 500 and 510 are virtually the same, I guess they ironed a few 'wrinkles' out with that incarnation. They take the same toner cartridges which is good as they discontinued the 500 as soon as the 510 came out.
The 510 I have also has duplex. It is actually a great machine and the one thing I liked about it from the start was that the print was matte -- not that shiny gloss that I associate with laser prints vs inkjet. Much easier to read and no glare. I just hope I can use it for transfer work.

To everyone else here, I am open to options for favorite paper for a laser you might have if for some reason HT doesn't work..
thanks 
djl


----------



## vallcom

Recieved samples of Duracotton HT yesterday. My printer is an OKI 5200. Adjusted pressure to Extra Heavy, set color to fine, selected RBG, ran paper with no trouble. Transferred at 400 degrees for 12 seconds onto white, light green and a light blue shirt. After washing noticed a faint border around image on the light blue and light green shirt. I am satisfied this will wash out. Autoart is confident even this slight border can be worked out. I am very confident in Autoart. Even if this cannot be corrected, this is still the best paper to hit the market ever.


----------



## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> from what I understand the samsung 500 and 510 are virtually the same, I guess they ironed a few 'wrinkles' out with that incarnation. They take the same toner cartridges which is good as they discontinued the 500 as soon as the 510 came out.
> The 510 I have also has duplex. It is actually a great machine and the one thing I liked about it from the start was that the print was matte -- not that shiny gloss that I associate with laser prints vs inkjet. Much easier to read and no glare. I just hope I can use it for transfer work.
> 
> To everyone else here, I am open to options for favorite paper for a laser you might have if for some reason HT doesn't work..
> thanks
> djl


Hi DJL:

It appears as though there are several owners of the Samsung 500 / 510 printer models wanting to print DuraCotton HT transfers.

Thank you!

Yesterday, I phoned the nearby fellow with a 510 to arrange a time for testing - he and I had previously agreed to such. The phone number was correct along with the business name, address and contact name. But the fellow, that I had earlier spoken to, did not exist.

I emailed him and await his response.

Late yesterday, an owner of a Samsung 500 phoned - he has paper on order, will test and let us all know of his results.

I apologize for the delay - we will get the right answer asap.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## vallcom

*Re: HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*

I believe you need to switch to a heavier mode in your printer. I had the same trouble on medium setting and even heavy setting but when I switched to extra heavy mode the problem dissapeared. Hope this helps.


----------



## CoolTech

Any word on shipping release?


----------



## edwin 98

Yes, we are Shipping Today. We have Oil, SUB (All US sizes).
And HT (8 1/2 X 11 & 11 X 17) 

Edwin


----------



## CoolTech

edwin 98 said:


> Yes, we are Shipping Today. We have Oil, SUB (All US sizes).
> And HT (8 1/2 X 11 & 11 X 17)[/URL]
> 
> Edwin


Excellent! I have designs waiting for it!


----------



## vlcnmstr

*Re: HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*



vallcom said:


> I believe you need to switch to a heavier mode in your printer. I had the same trouble on medium setting and even heavy setting but when I switched to extra heavy mode the problem dissapeared. Hope this helps.


No, that's where the problem occurred.
When it was on plain paper, it printed almost prefectly except for an area where a portion of the image printed further down the page (per posted fotos earlier).
When I set the machine to thicker paper DISASTER. it melted to the roller and took four hours to remove, disassembling the printer where I am sure no one was meant to go. Thicker paper is NOT the way to go for setting on the samsung.
djl


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: Printers*



Mystic said:


> If you go to Dye-Namic.com then you will see the list of printers that they have tested with this paper and instructions on how to use the printers.
> 
> Here is some info they had on the website.
> 
> Laser Printers Tested and Working with Invisible AutoART DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers:
> 
> HP 2600, 2605, 3550. 4500, (some will use oil others HT)
> Oki 3100, 3200, 5150, 5200, 5500, 5800 (all HT)
> Alps 5000 HT
> Minolta 61xx Oil
> Tally 8006e (Oil), 8008e (HT)
> Lexmark C510 (Gloss Mode Oil) C530 (Gloss Mode HT), C532 (Gloss Mode HT), C720,
> 
> Brothers 26xxCN (Oil), Brothers 27xxCN (HT)All Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is THICK STOCK / THICK PAPER​
> All NON Fuser Oil based, all brands - common paper setting is PLAIN PAPER or Transparency​
> We have found that the same printer will work in one area of the US and not another.​Hope this helps!


 

Anyone Know the about more or less Price ranges for these Printers.... as a quick reference for anyone looking to purchase a new printer ?

are they all $ 200 - $ 500 ?


----------



## idaone

Hi to the Group...New to here and very interested in the DuraCotton process. It sounds very good since I have the Oki 5800. Can someone tell me who to contact on this product?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Ida:

A good place to start would be the AutoART website (see entry #1 for website address - note phone numbers have changed and they are listed on the AutoART site - top header), then select Distributors. From there contact the distributors in your country. More distributors in the US have been added though they are not yet completely listed)

Personnally, I have printed on the Oki 5800 with great results - 15 pages per minute output at the highest quality. While on the AutoART website, check the Paper Settings under Instructions.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## vallcom

*Re: HT and the samsung-- what should I change? DuraCotton98*

If you will, please inform us when and if you do find the problem. Thanks in advance.


----------



## vlcnmstr

I suppose if I had 800US to set aside for a new oki5800 I would love the prints too, but I have to see what I can do with the laser I have before I can justify any new machines.


----------



## Lnfortun

vallcom said:


> Recieved samples of Duracotton HT yesterday. My printer is an OKI 5200. Adjusted pressure to Extra Heavy, set color to fine, selected RBG, ran paper with no trouble. Transferred at 400 degrees for 12 seconds onto white, light green and a light blue shirt. After washing noticed a faint border around image on the light blue and light green shirt. I am satisfied this will wash out. Autoart is confident even this slight border can be worked out. I am very confident in Autoart. Even if this cannot be corrected, this is still the best paper to hit the market ever.


I am surpised the HT paper did not jam. I have a C5200 and the paper jammed in the setting you mentioned. Edwin recommended that I set the media weight to medium and plain paper type. I did not have anymore sample paper so I was not able to verify if the settings he recommended works. Evidently those are the settings he used to print the pre-printed samples in his C3200 printer. The pre-printed sample is the proof that those settings worked.

I tried the transfer paper from the package marked oil fuser and it went through the printer fine. But the printed garment had a gray background. So I am confused.

Luis


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Luis:

The fusing temperatures of identical printers can vary - that is why it is so important to test each printer and select the most appropriate settings for that specific printer. This variation of fusing temps happens with all brands.

We have also learned that the Oki printers need to be warm - print 5 - 6 papges onto plain paper when you turn on the printer - before using DuraCotton HT heat transfer paper.

With the Oki printers, a gray overcoat of toner is printed and only appears when pressed if you use DuraCotton 98 or DuraCotton OIL. DuraCotton HT was in part designed to overcome this issue. If you read back in the T-ShirtForums, DuraCotton 98 thread, all of the above information is there in more detail. 

Hope the above helps!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## thrivers

did anybody used the duracotton sublimation paper? is it true that you still need another transfer paper (sublimation) so that you'll get the promised results (no hand ,etc) ?


----------



## thrivers

can i use duracotton for inkjet printer like epson 88+ w/ durabrite ink?


----------



## edwin 98

thrivers said:


> can i use duracotton for inkjet printer like epson 88+ w/ durabrite ink?



I am sorry but DuraCotton SUB is a 2 part sublimation process. DuraCotton 98 Will NOT work in any ink jet printer. For More information on DuraCotton SUB see [the website]


----------



## Dave_S

Recieved my shipment of Duracotton HT and Duracotton SUB today.... I have only tested one sheet of each at present, using an Epson C900 CLP in the HEAVY setting the one sheet I tried printed beautifully with no jams. Extremely vibrant colours.....I cut up the paper and test pressed at different temps ranging from 195c to 205c (and times varying from 14 to 18 seconds, medium pressure), @ 195c it was still producing a visible polymer window and a hand, @ 205c it was considerably less, but still there, i'm sure it only needs a bit of tweaking.... I will start a wash test tomorrow... overall with the test piece I am very happy......
I also tried the Duracotton SUB paper, this too looks promising, I use Rotech inks, followed the instructions on Kens site and worked fine, although the blacks turned out very dark grey, not completely black, but close!, again, i think just needs a little tweaking, there was a very slight window where the paper was pressed, but zero hand, the paper outline I think will wash out during the first wash.... but overall I am very pleased with the results. 
I cannot comment on a long print run, as most of my work are single T-Shirt orders. Hope this helps.
Seems to be working fine on the Epson C900, but obviously more testing needed.

regards

Dave_S


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> Recieved my shipment of Duracotton HT and Duracotton SUB today.... I have only tested one sheet of each at present, using an Epson C900 CLP in the HEAVY setting the one sheet I tried printed beautifully with no jams. Extremely vibrant colours.....I cut up the paper and test pressed at different temps ranging from 195c to 205c (and times varying from 14 to 18 seconds, medium pressure), @ 195c it was still producing a visible polymer window and a hand, @ 205c it was considerably less, but still there, i'm sure it only needs a bit of tweaking.... I will start a wash test tomorrow... overall with the test piece I am very happy......
> I also tried the Duracotton SUB paper, this too looks promising, I use Rotech inks, followed the instructions on Kens site and worked fine, although the blacks turned out very dark grey, not completely black, but close!, again, i think just needs a little tweaking, there was a very slight window where the paper was pressed, but zero hand, the paper outline I think will wash out during the first wash.... but overall I am very pleased with the results.
> I cannot comment on a long print run, as most of my work are single T-Shirt orders. Hope this helps.
> Seems to be working fine on the Epson C900, but obviously more testing needed.
> 
> regards
> 
> Dave_S


Hi Dave:

Try pressing at 210 C - based on your comments that 205 was better than 195 - I suspect you still need a bit more temp to eliminate the polymer border. After you peel, try a sheet of teflon (c) for 3 - 4 seconds at the same temp. As well, I would likely increase the pressure a bit up to 3/4's from medium.

Thanks for testing the Epson C900 and letting everyone know the results.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## Solmu

DuraCotton98 said:


> We have also learned that the Oki printers need to be warm - print 5 - 6 papges onto plain paper when you turn on the printer


This might be a stupid question, but does that mean you need to run five or six blank sheets through to warm up the rollers, or five or six actual prints onto plain paper to get the toner moving (so to speak)?


----------



## CoolTech

Solmu said:


> This might be a stupid question, but does that mean you need to run five or six blank sheets through to warm up the rollers, or five or six actual prints onto plain paper to get the toner moving (so to speak)?


It has been clear in the past postings that any 5-6 sheets will do. The idea is to get the fuser up to heat


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> Recieved my shipment of Duracotton HT and Duracotton SUB today.... I have only tested one sheet of each at present, using an Epson C900 CLP in the HEAVY setting the one sheet I tried printed beautifully with no jams. Extremely vibrant colours.....I cut up the paper and test pressed at different temps ranging from 195c to 205c (and times varying from 14 to 18 seconds, medium pressure), @ 195c it was still producing a visible polymer window and a hand, @ 205c it was considerably less, but still there, i'm sure it only needs a bit of tweaking.... I will start a wash test tomorrow... overall with the test piece I am very happy......
> I also tried the Duracotton SUB paper, this too looks promising, I use Rotech inks, followed the instructions on Kens site and worked fine, although the blacks turned out very dark grey, not completely black, but close!, again, i think just needs a little tweaking, there was a very slight window where the paper was pressed, but zero hand, the paper outline I think will wash out during the first wash.... but overall I am very pleased with the results.
> I cannot comment on a long print run, as most of my work are single T-Shirt orders. Hope this helps.
> Seems to be working fine on the Epson C900, but obviously more testing needed.
> 
> regards
> 
> Dave_S


Dave:

Colors are determined by the printer and inks / toners of your choice. Inkjet sublimation (Rotech inks in your case) do not produce strong black-blacks. The DuraCotton SUB paper presses what it 'sees' - dark grey instead of black colors associated with sublimation ink.

This point is very evident when using OEM toner based printers and copiers. The blacks are strong black when heat pressed with DuraCotton papers.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## T-BOT

do lazer BLACK's turn out more Black if you calibrate at 100% for all CMYB ?...when printing Black only.


----------



## harleyrider11

Just wanted to add that I have been testing the duracotton HT with a HP Color Laserjet 1500L. Test have come out from the first ok missng some of the color after transfering @ 400 degree for 10 sec, print setting was plain paper, next transparent paper, same temp and time, not good, next on heavy paper ran five sheet prior to printing transfer. transfer color deep, rich excellent. transfered @ 400, for 20 sec, came out almost perfect. Still treaking, this was for shirts. Had a slight hint of a frame around the outside of design.
Next I tried to do two different style of hats. one the old fashion foam front hat and a heavier hat similar to the American Needle brand.
printed 5 or 6 before actual transfer, heavy paper setting, pressed @ 400 for 20 sec. Foam hat came out great, only thing is maybe a little long press time it put a shinny band around the design, the Heavier hat, same settings, Great transfer, with a hint of shadow around the design. still testing.

If someone can explain the shadow around the desing weather it is on a hat or shirt, that would be great.
Bubba


----------



## BrewCityGraphics

I purchased the Samsung CLP-510 to use with this transfer paper as it was $180 w/ coupon and free shipping from overstock.com. I was having issues printing on the paper; toner not bonding in certain print modes and sticking to fuser in all other print modes. After speaking with Ken, I contacted Samsung. Per Samsung, the CLP-510 does not support glossy paper (mfg code for transfer paper). I asked if the printer changes speed or temperature to control the print job and the technician said the temperature changes; although, I don’t completely believe he knew that for sure. I then asked, even though you don’t support glossy paper, which printer paper type setting is in-between Plain Paper (toner didn't bond) and Thick (stuck to fuser), and he could not answer. So much for tech support. Regarding jams though, I did find two screws to remove a cover that allowed me to gain access to the rollers easy enough to remove jams without damaging the fuser; the fuser doesn't have a release per tech support. Then on to my conquest. I tried all paper settings for the printer/paper; Plain Paper, Thick, Thin, Bond, Colored, Card Stock, Labels, Transparency, Envelope, Preprinted, Cotton and Recycled Paper. The print job would jam on all but the Plain Paper, Thin and Transparency modes, however, when it printed after printing 1/3rd of the page the toner did not bond to the paper. After some frustration I decided to try it in duplex and print on the second pass thinking it might heat the toner/fuser/paper up enough. Surprisingly, the job did print better, but not satisfactory. The full image was on the page now, but pieces of the filling of the image were missing towards the bottom of the page. I decided to press the image anyway, but not all toner transferred as it should have. Thus, I am concluding that this printer does not support the DuraCotton HT transfer paper. I will be buying an OKI printer to try to get this to work next.


----------



## vlcnmstr

*printer for HT -- best?*

I am begining to get the idea that while I love the paper output of my samsung, I may need another printer too, for transfers. 
so,
If I am reading the posts right, sounds like for the HT I should be getting a oki3400? -- they're on sale near me so I may be able to get one relatively inexpensively. Then too, I might have won the lotto tonight, I have to find my tickets and see.....!


----------



## Dave_S

Thanks Ken for your advice on the temp withthe HT paper and the Rotech Dye sub inks and the Duracotton SUB paper, I will still do some tweaking as I am sure I could get it better!!. Continue with the good work......first impressions this stuff is really great

Cheers Ken

Dave_S


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: printer for HT -- best?*



vlcnmstr said:


> I am begining to get the idea that while I love the paper output of my samsung, I may need another printer too, for transfers.
> so,
> If I am reading the posts right, sounds like for the HT I should be getting a oki3400? -- they're on sale near me so I may be able to get one relatively inexpensively. Then too, I might have won the lotto tonight, I have to find my tickets and see.....!


Hi:

Just a few points to remember when buying the Oki printers:
1. The Oki 3400 is single sheet fed (mpt) and uses smaller toner cartridges (the cost of toner per print is higher).
2. The Oki 5500 prints DuraCotton HT in transparency mode (mpt). That means a button must be pushed between each print. Large toner cartridges are available - toner cost per print is lower.
3. The Oki 5800 prints at engine speed (mpt) - approx. 15 pages per minute (no buttons to push) and the larger toner cartridges are available - toner cost per print is lower.

Hope the above info helps you make a good business decision

have a great one!

Ken


ps mpt - multi-purpose tray


----------



## DuraCotton98

BrewCityGraphics said:


> I purchased the Samsung CLP-510 to use with this transfer paper as it was $180 w/ coupon and free shipping from overstock.com. I was having issues printing on the paper; toner not bonding in certain print modes and sticking to fuser in all other print modes. After speaking with Ken, I contacted Samsung. Per Samsung, the CLP-510 does not support glossy paper (mfg code for transfer paper). I asked if the printer changes speed or temperature to control the print job and the technician said the temperature changes; although, I don’t completely believe he knew that for sure. I then asked, even though you don’t support glossy paper, which printer paper type setting is in-between Plain Paper (toner didn't bond) and Thick (stuck to fuser), and he could not answer. So much for tech support. Regarding jams though, I did find two screws to remove a cover that allowed me to gain access to the rollers easy enough to remove jams without damaging the fuser; the fuser doesn't have a release per tech support. Then on to my conquest. I tried all paper settings for the printer/paper; Plain Paper, Thick, Thin, Bond, Colored, Card Stock, Labels, Transparency, Envelope, Preprinted, Cotton and Recycled Paper. The print job would jam on all but the Plain Paper, Thin and Transparency modes, however, when it printed after printing 1/3rd of the page the toner did not bond to the paper. After some frustration I decided to try it in duplex and print on the second pass thinking it might heat the toner/fuser/paper up enough. Surprisingly, the job did print better, but not satisfactory. The full image was on the page now, but pieces of the filling of the image were missing towards the bottom of the page. I decided to press the image anyway, but not all toner transferred as it should have. Thus, I am concluding that this printer does not support the DuraCotton HT transfer paper. I will be buying an OKI printer to try to get this to work next.


Jeremy:

Wow!

How can we thank you!

You work and resulting documentation is of great value to the Samsung users!

Thank you!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## Shantiman

Could someone tell me if the OKI 3200 is a suitable printer smoothly runs the duracotton ht ?


----------



## DuraCotton98

T-BOT said:


> do lazer BLACK's turn out more Black if you calibrate at 100% for all CMYB ?...when printing Black only.


Lucy:

With most laser printers, the blackest black is printed and pressed using RGB colors. R = 0, G = 0, B = 0.

As earlier posted, AutoART strongly recommends the best colors are printed and pressed using the RGB color model.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## Shantiman

Sorry correction its the OKI3300n


----------



## DuraCotton98

Shantiman said:


> Could someone tell me if the OKI 3200 is a suitable printer smoothly runs the duracotton ht ?


YES!

It works extremely well

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

harleyrider11 said:


> Just wanted to add that I have been testing the duracotton HT with a HP Color Laserjet 1500L. Test have come out from the first ok missng some of the color after transfering @ 400 degree for 10 sec, print setting was plain paper, next transparent paper, same temp and time, not good, next on heavy paper ran five sheet prior to printing transfer. transfer color deep, rich excellent. transfered @ 400, for 20 sec, came out almost perfect. Still treaking, this was for shirts. Had a slight hint of a frame around the outside of design.
> Next I tried to do two different style of hats. one the old fashion foam front hat and a heavier hat similar to the American Needle brand.
> printed 5 or 6 before actual transfer, heavy paper setting, pressed @ 400 for 20 sec. Foam hat came out great, only thing is maybe a little long press time it put a shinny band around the design, the Heavier hat, same settings, Great transfer, with a hint of shadow around the design. still testing.
> 
> If someone can explain the shadow around the desing weather it is on a hat or shirt, that would be great.
> Bubba


Bubba:

Could you please explain your situation again?

It sounds as though you are seeing a grey overcoat, outside the image area after pressing. Is that true?

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## harleyrider11

Ken what causes shadowing around the design?? TO much heat? To long of press time??


----------



## DuraCotton98

harleyrider11 said:


> Ken what causes shadowing around the design?? TO much heat? To long of press time??


Hi Bob:

"Shadowing around the design' - that is a definition I require clarified.

If, that word is 'IF', the description is equivalent to a grey overcast on the polymer outside the image area after heat pressing, then we encountered that initially with the Oki 3200 and DuraCotton98. We overcame that issue with DuraCotton HT.

As way of an aside, many prospects / users think the HT stands for High Temp (something I have encouraged). HT really means High Tech. In other words, creating DuraCotton HT required much more than simply increasing the fusing temp of the paper. 

If the issue has re-surfaced with this HP, then we will attempt to provide a 'fix' with the next DuraCotton paper now in development. That is solely a promise to try to fix. For competitive reasons, I will not venture into the purpose of the forthcoming new DuraCotton paper.

The issue is not caused by the paper nor by heat pressing but rather by the technology of the printer.

In the short run, if the issue persists and IF the issue is truly grey overcast, then I would recommend a different printer.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## CoolTech

Shantiman said:


> Sorry correction its the OKI3300n


Yes, it does

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t14003.html

Sorry, caught it before the correction was made


----------



## BrewCityGraphics

Amazon.com has the C5200N for $248.21 refurbished with free shipping. However, CoastalBusiness.com will match Amazon.com's price with the C5200NE they sell (same printer per OKI; one sold at retail outlets, and the other at the OKI online store). However, with CoastalBusiness.com note the following:

These Refurbished Okidata C5200 NE Color Laser Printers are a great buy. They have been inspected and have passed the strictest quality checks before we brought them into our inventory. All of the printers we have in stock have LESS than 300 page counts and have been gently used in retail outlets. We offer a *30 day full replacement Warranty* if, for any reason, there is a problem with the printer in the first 30 days after the sale.
TONER: These Okidata C5200ne Color Laser Printers come with partial toners. This means that they are High capacity toners (not the little starter toner that comes with new machines) which have been gently used. During the inspection of the machines we only repacked toner that was at least half full. While we can not guarantee how much toner is in each carton we believe each of the printers have more toner than a normal starter cartridge. We also offer OEM Okidata Toner and also a Generic Toner for these machines. We use the generic for our printers in the office and have great results!!!
There are only 3 left at Coastals. It says 4, but I just bought one from Kim


----------



## taurusndixie

With all the numerous printers being tried and used for the Dura Cotton HT paper, has anyone been keeping score as to which printer gives the best results with the least amount of trouble ?

Ken ? Anyone ?

Thanks, 
Don


----------



## machine27

*Re: Printers*



T-BOT said:


> Anyone Know the about more or less Price ranges for these Printers.... as a quick reference for anyone looking to purchase a new printer ?
> 
> are they all $ 200 - $ 500 ?


I paid around $250 US for an OKI 5200 refurb+shipping-ebay.


----------



## vlcnmstr

I am sort of holding my breath playing russian roulette with the COMPUSA out of business sale.
I am watching the Oki's and might just sucumb to one this week if I can get there before they are out. the 5800 model is dropping in price and it's lust I tel ya!
If there is a comp usa near you that's closing, feed while it's there....
"Mwaaaa ha ha haaaw"


----------



## DuraCotton98

taurusndixie said:


> With all the numerous printers being tried and used for the Dura Cotton HT paper, has anyone been keeping score as to which printer gives the best results with the least amount of trouble ?
> 
> Ken ? Anyone ?
> 
> Thanks,
> Don


Hi Don:

We are very high on the newer Okis (3400, 5500, 5800). The older Okis (3100, 3200, 5200) are excellent as well (toner is slightly less vibrant, color washout is very slight). With the 3400 / 5500 / 5800 toner we are at 21 washes - I suspect the toner will now outlast the fabric ('Alps-like' lasting color).

Excellent results are happening with the Ricoh color laser printers and copiers (non-oil).

The Xerox Docucolor 250 copier is pumping out excellent color and wash results.

have a great one!

Ken

The above printers and copiers are our first recommendations.


----------



## NorthDes

Ken;
I am currently awaiting samples on your new paper. Can't wait to try it. What paper settings do you use in the Xerox 250? I have a DocuColor 1632/240 and believe it should be the same as the 250 for running the transfer paper.
Thank you,
Susan


----------



## The Concrete Mix

I need A3 size transferpaper and I live in Europe. Does anyone know a compony that sells A3 size Duracotton (98 or HT) transferpaper?


----------



## DuraCotton98

The Concrete Mix said:


> I need A3 size transferpaper and I live in Europe. Does anyone know a compony that sells A3 size Duracotton (98 or HT) transferpaper?


Hi Chielant 

Wherebouts in Europe are you located?

Which printer do you have? (which paper do you require?)

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## The Concrete Mix

I live in the Netherlands, but I don't print the transfers myself. I do know that the printshop only has laserprinters/copiers, but I have to find out whether they are fuser oil or non fuser oil devices.


----------



## DuraCotton98

The Concrete Mix said:


> I live in the Netherlands, but I don't print the transfers myself. I do know that the printshop only has laserprinters/copiers, but I have to find out whether they are fuser oil or non fuser oil devices.


Hi Chielant:

While you are learning whether you require oil or HT paper, please also identify the manufacturer's name and model number. We could easily have some results already on that equipment so we could pass along the paper setings etc.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## DuraCotton98

NorthDes said:


> Ken;
> I am currently awaiting samples on your new paper. Can't wait to try it. What paper settings do you use in the Xerox 250? I have a DocuColor 1632/240 and believe it should be the same as the 250 for running the transfer paper.
> Thank you,
> Susan


Hi Susan:

The recommended paper setting is PLAIN PAPER 

Good Luck!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## scolbert

Hello to all:
I purchased the Oki 5500 from Compusa Saturday. I love it!! It works well with the HT-Duracotton. Only paper jam was not letting the printer heat up enough. Once I ran about 8-10 blank sheets I was able to print to the HT without a problem. Compusa are closing most stores in MI and not sure where else they may be closing but all printers are discounted by 10%. 

Sandra of Detroit


----------



## CoolTech

Just wanted to show how DuraCotton has paid for itself already....

I received a .bmp image from someone who wanted to get their design onto T-shirts for their Choir.










I love it when they give you basic colors!

So, I traced it in CorelDraw x3, did some light editing, printed to DuraCottonHT...

OKIDATA C3200 Settings:

All default except for "Multi Purpose Tray"
====

Then, I pressed a 50/50 Heavy Weight T-Shirt to show the customer how the "exact" image will look...



























===
I didn't even set up a proper photo screen (I did this in less than 30 minutes, just to send it to the customer, fast).
===

Within 2.5 hours, I had an order for six dozen shirts...


Yes, I am sold on DuraCottonHT!

(Ken, I will take my gratis 200 sheets now... lol)


----------



## T-BOT

CoolTech said:


> Just wanted to show how DuraCotton has paid for itself already....
> 
> I received a .bmp image from someone who wanted to get their design onto T-shirts for their Choir.


 
Wow!!!


that looks very nice.


thanks for the photos.


----------



## CoolTech

YW,
As you can see, there is no footprint to the images on a t-shirt. I did attempt printing to some "fabric-by-the-yard" that I purchased, but there was a HUGE footprint on that (go figure)


----------



## The Concrete Mix

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Chielant:
> 
> While you are learning whether you require oil or HT paper, please also identify the manufacturer's name and model number. We could easily have some results already on that equipment so we could pass along the paper setings etc.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


Hi Ken. Thanx for helping. I just went to the printshop and they use a Nashuatec Aficio CS513d colour laser copier which works on fuser oil.

The printshop self uses Magic Touch TTC 3.1 Transfers and their results look preety good in my opinion, but of course I'd like to compare.


----------



## DuraCotton98

The Concrete Mix said:


> Hi Ken. Thanx for helping. I just went to the printshop and they use a Nashuatec Aficio CS513d colour laser copier which works on fuser oil.
> 
> The printshop self uses Magic Touch TTC 3.1 Transfers and their results look preety good in my opinion, but of course I'd like to compare.


_Hi Chielant:_

_Please forward your address to me privately. We will arrange some paper - both DuraCotton OIL and DuraCotton HT. Though these papers are virtually identical in attributes, HT has a much higher fuser melting temperature. Both papers could easily work._

_have a great one!_


----------



## NorthDes

*DuraCotton HT awesome stuff*

I just had to post about my results with the DuraCotton HT for running on my Xerox DocuColor. Not only did I get my samples fast, "Thank you Dye-namic" the paper has lived up to its claims and imaged and transferred beautifully. This is incredible given the fuser temp of my printer. I've tried other so called, made for these high temp machines with terrible results and damage to my printer - cost me $$ and could have voided my service contract. The Xerox DocuColors print at an incredible resolution and image quality, but they run very hot. So, up til now there was no way to take advantage of transferring images from these great machines to other substrates (other than direct printing which meant only paper items) The images I ran were of my husband's logo for his coffee company. They look fantastic; no carrier show through, no fuzzy images, no plasticy feel. In fact, they look and feel like a silk screen garment. Given, that Ken's paper has held up to his claims for printing and imaging, I am very optimistic that they will hold up in the wash as well. Oh, and I printed images to white, tan, and light peach colored garments; all with no carrier show through. Wow. Now Autoart, please make this for Darks - and I won't have to covet the DTG printers anymore. I am looking forward to receiving the 11x17 size paper to run full-back and sleeve designs. For those designers without the $ to invest in a laser printer, I know that the Xerox 250 is what is used by most copy-shops, such as at Office Max and other digital printers. The 250 (which Ken says runs his papers too) is just a "souped up model of my printer. This paper ran smoothly past the fuser on my printer, not even a squeak - I get more resistance than that if I run paper label stock made for these printers. I ran it at high quality with a plain paper setting. The image looked like the original design on my monitor. Too Cool. I'm used to sublimation printing, and this is just so easy compared to that...if you can't tell, I'm excited because this paper opens up a whole new realm for my little print/design shop.
~Susan


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: DuraCotton HT awesome stuff*

Yes, I can tell you are excited 

I am glad to hear someone else is excited about the new paper.

Can you post some pics?


----------



## NorthDes

I would love to post pics, however my digital camera is not working properly and I'm not sure how to fix it.  I have to wait for my tech savvy teenage son to do it. If I can borrow one I'll post pictures as soon as I can. I'm looking forward to receiving my order so I can continue testing the transfers on other cotton garment surfaces, such as piques and wovens, and hats. Anyone with experience on these? ~Susan


----------



## spore

Sounds like a viable alternative to plastisol transfers. Well maybe not as good, but this definitely seems like a logical progression moving away from inkjet transfers and flakey Ironall.


----------



## ukshirtguy

Is this available for dark (black) garments ?
Im looking for an alternative to vectorizing, cutting or a £10,000 dtg !

Are there any uk suppliers ?

Thanks


----------



## Dave_S

ukshirtguy,

I got mine from Ed @ periscope promotions in Canada, he delivered to the U.K for me............Great results with the HT, but wash tests were poor, due to the printer / toner combo (Epson C900), i found out it uses similar toner to the KM printers....... Rekon its an Oki 5600 on the cards

Dave_S


----------



## ukshirtguy

Hi Dave,

Does it transfer to black shirts and require no cutting or trimming ?
This is my ultimate goal at the moment.

Cheers


----------



## Dave_S

No, the HT is only for lights, but Ken @ autoart is working on a Duracotton dark paper at the moment, watch this space, if its anything like the HT, 98 and Sub papers, it'll be great...

Dave_S


----------



## edwin 98

To All DuraCotton HT fans:

Staples is offering a OKI 5500 for a net of$399.98 which includes a $200.00 easy rebate. This Sale is good from Sunday March 18, 2007 through Sat. March 31. 2007.

Big Ed


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> ukshirtguy,
> 
> I got mine from Ed @ periscope promotions in Canada, he delivered to the U.K for me............Great results with the HT, but wash tests were poor, due to the printer / toner combo (Epson C900), i found out it uses similar toner to the KM printers....... Rekon its an Oki 5600 on the cards
> 
> Dave_S


Thanks Dave_S:

This is valuable information re: Epson C900, Now I wonder about the balance of the Epson line - are all or specific models KM toner based or otherwise. Does anyone know?

have a great one!


----------



## Dave_S

Ken, I can help you out a little more, I know the Epson C1900 also uses the same toner carts as the smaller C900, so that one would be the same too...... Regarding other Epson models I couldn't say.....It looks if Oki's are the way to go......

regards..........Dave_S


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> Ken, I can help you out a little more, I know the Epson C1900 also uses the same toner carts as the smaller C900, so that one would be the same too...... Regarding other Epson models I couldn't say.....It looks if Oki's are the way to go......
> 
> regards..........Dave_S


Dave:

Excellent info! Thank you

Take notice: Users of Epson C900 and C1900 color laser printers will have heavy washout issues when using DuraCotton papers.

have a great one!


----------



## Law Dog

Hello All,

Will be taking my maiden voyage in the morning with my OKI 3400 and Duracotton HT. I was hoping for a little imput before hand. Am I right to set the paper settings from medium to transperancy. What is the heating instructions (400 degrees and 12 seconds?)? IF I have a jam are there any words of wisdom on how to fix the problem (clean the printer) without doing any more damage to the printer?

Thanks Mark,


----------



## DuraCotton98

Law Dog said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Will be taking my maiden voyage in the morning with my OKI 3400 and Duracotton HT. I was hoping for a little imput before hand. Am I right to set the paper settings from medium to transperancy. What is the heating instructions (400 degrees and 12 seconds?)? IF I have a jam are there any words of wisdom on how to fix the problem (clean the printer) without doing any more damage to the printer?
> 
> Thanks Mark,


Hi Mark:

Use GLOSSY as your paper setting.

Personally on a new manual press, we use 410 F for 14 seconds - comes off nice and easy. If there is any resistance, take your temp up another 5 degrees. We press at three-quarters pressure. Some people press for another 3 - 4 seconds with Teflon (c) (after peeling) to eliminate hand and polymer visibility (function of your first presing as to whether or not you have either).

There should be NO jams using the MPT and going out the back. But if you do jam, it is very easy to clear - take the toner cartridges out, lift out the OPC belt, push down the OPC button and gently pull out the paper (do this when the rollers are hot). Then run 3 - 5 plain papers through to clean the rollers etc.

You may need to slightly adjust the color balance to your eyes.

All of the above is documented on the autoartusa.com website under Instructions, then Oki

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## grumpster

Law Dog said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Will be taking my maiden voyage in the morning with my OKI 3400 and Duracotton HT. I was hoping for a little imput before hand. Am I right to set the paper settings from medium to transperancy. What is the heating instructions (400 degrees and 12 seconds?)? IF I have a jam are there any words of wisdom on how to fix the problem (clean the printer) without doing any more damage to the printer?
> 
> Thanks Mark,


Biggest suggestion I can recommend about clearing a jam is to do it ASAP. Once cleared, run a few pages of plain paper through the printer to remove any residue by printing a blank page. If the paper and printer are still hot, the jammed paper will be relatively easy to remove. If you wait till it cools down, that's where you'll have the problems. 

I often switch back and forth between papers and forget to change my printer setting more times than I'd like to admit. I get a jam every time that happens. No fault of duracotton on that. It's user error plain and simple. I've gotten pretty good at clearing jams as a result. No permanent damage to my printer yet.


----------



## Law Dog

Thanks Ken and Grumpster. Your feedback is appreciated.

Mark


----------



## diane143

I was able to try Transjet II in my Phaser 8400 yesterday (solid wax printer).

Worked great, but it certainly left a decent carrier.

I have some DuraCotton coming to me. So far it doesn't sound like anyone with a wax-based printer has tried this.  

I am wondering a couple of things: I ran the TJII through the manual tray with the paper setting of "Special".

Has anyone had both papers in hand? Is the DuraCotton similar in texture and weight in order to do the same?

Also, can Ken or Ed post the high temps vs low temps for the paper types?

I called Xerox today to find out the internal operating temp of the printer. I was told by person one that I needed my serial number, which was at home. I told her to pretend this was a pre-purchase question. She shuttled me off to a different department (sales vs support). *He* told me it was proprietary info. I pushed him a little harder and he tossed me to yet another department who never picked up. I can see why people with Phasers have gotten frustrated in trying to get info from them - they just won't give it up! I'm going to try again tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.

Thanks everyone!

Diane


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> I was able to try Transjet II in my Phaser 8400 yesterday (solid wax printer).
> 
> Worked great, but it certainly left a decent carrier.
> 
> I have some DuraCotton coming to me. So far it doesn't sound like anyone with a wax-based printer has tried this.
> 
> I am wondering a couple of things: I ran the TJII through the manual tray with the paper setting of "Special".
> 
> Has anyone had both papers in hand? Is the DuraCotton similar in texture and weight in order to do the same?
> 
> Also, can Ken or Ed post the high temps vs low temps for the paper types?
> 
> I called Xerox today to find out the internal operating temp of the printer. I was told by person one that I needed my serial number, which was at home. I told her to pretend this was a pre-purchase question. She shuttled me off to a different department (sales vs support). *He* told me it was proprietary info. I pushed him a little harder and he tossed me to yet another department who never picked up. I can see why people with Phasers have gotten frustrated in trying to get info from them - they just won't give it up! I'm going to try again tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

This is not the answer that you wish to hear!

But, the best I have.

As a non-technical person when it comes to printers and copiers, I am beginning to think the range of 'acceptable' temperatures bounces all over the place based on manufacturer and model. 

Yesterday, I was on two high end copiers - same manufacturer, different models. One ran DuraCotton HT perfectly, the other would not - paper jammed, jammed, and jammed (the technician even adjusted the fusing temp without success). Ultimately, we came up with a working formula.

The documented fusing temperatures were the same. 

Hope that helps!

have a great one!


----------



## Law Dog

Hi Everyone, 

I have a proposal........

KEN FOR PRESIDENT!!!!

Made my maiden voyage with HT and Oki 3400. It went great. I have to admit I put a lot of faith in the paper but was leary of messing up a $300 printer because of a wrong setting or something. Absolutely no problems...... I do have one question though. I washed one of the shirts that I printed and it faded more than I thought it would or should. The only thing I can think of, is maybe that I did not have enough pressure to seat the ink well enough. Is this a plausible idea and can anyone think of anything else I may try?

Thanks, Mark


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Mark:

You have me laughing!

I suggest that you up your time about 2 seconds, another 5 F degrees of temp, and increase your pressure - maybe to about 3/4's.

Not sure why you washed but these increases should look after the issue.

This morning we received an email from a 5500 user (same toner as the 3400 and 5800 models). She wrote: "DuraCotton produces bright vibrant soft images right out of the gate ~ so far a couple sample shirts have been washed about 40 times (I’ve got a 3 year old so we do laundry several times a day and I just toss them in for grins)…The Shirts STILL look GREAT … just as vibrant as when they were originally pressed ~ DuraCotton ROCKS !" 

Please try the above suggestions - and let us know

have a great one!


----------



## Law Dog

Ken,

You really do have a great product..... I printed my logo on a few shirts for my kids, and 1 had to wear it immediately. Said child proceeded to get this shirt dirty outside and since I was already doing laundry, I put it in. I originally started @ 20 seconds dwell time and had a small burn type mark on the outer edge of the transfer. 15 seconds is where I reset to. 

Mark


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Mark:

You have choices: cover the shirt with a teflon sheet for the first pressing or reduce the time as you have. But, increase the pressure and the temp as the above posting.

As you use the heat press more and more with DuraCotton HT, you will learn better and better how to set it specifically for you. Unfortunately, heat presses are not created equally (even identical models from the same manufacturer require different settings) and you need to 'get to know your equipment'. Knowing your equipment will allow you to adjust the settings to maximize 'lack of washout', optimize the pressed color, ....

Test, wear and wash - you will only become happier and happier!

have a great one!


----------



## goodtease

Hey Guys,

I just got my pack of Duracotton HT....so I will tell the results on the Lexmark 530....Also for those who say it faded on the shirt...this actually got me a lot of business for the distressed tshirt look...lol. So I use the Duracotton98 for the faded look...and I will have to test the HT to see if looks as vibrant.

Anthony


----------



## freebird1963

Hello
We just got the Oki C5550N and was wondering what people have determined to be the best settings/setup for it to run the Duracotton HT paper ?

Thanks
Mark


----------



## Mystic

freebird1963 said:


> Hello
> We just got the Oki C5550N and was wondering what people have determined to be the best settings/setup for it to run the Duracotton HT paper ?
> 
> Thanks
> Mark



Hello Mark,

If you go to autoartusa.com then they have the listing of the printers and the general setup. Edwin is a huge help and quick to respond at dye-namic.com as well.


----------



## machine27

Mark,
hi, I'm thinking about getting the C5500n also. We're you happy with
results? Did you use any 50/50 shirts? Any other news is appreciated.
thanks,
Jimmy


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> I was able to try Transjet II in my Phaser 8400 yesterday (solid wax printer).
> 
> Worked great, but it certainly left a decent carrier.
> 
> I have some DuraCotton coming to me. So far it doesn't sound like anyone with a wax-based printer has tried this.
> 
> I am wondering a couple of things: I ran the TJII through the manual tray with the paper setting of "Special".
> 
> Has anyone had both papers in hand? Is the DuraCotton similar in texture and weight in order to do the same?
> 
> Also, can Ken or Ed post the high temps vs low temps for the paper types?
> 
> I called Xerox today to find out the internal operating temp of the printer. I was told by person one that I needed my serial number, which was at home. I told her to pretend this was a pre-purchase question. She shuttled me off to a different department (sales vs support). *He* told me it was proprietary info. I pushed him a little harder and he tossed me to yet another department who never picked up. I can see why people with Phasers have gotten frustrated in trying to get info from them - they just won't give it up! I'm going to try again tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

We now do have an update on the Xerox Phaser. DuraCotton HT prints perfectly; the Phaser wax runs (blurring image) during heat presssing.

Though not the info you wanted, now you know.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> We now do have an update on the Xerox Phaser. DuraCotton HT prints perfectly; the Phaser wax runs (blurring image) during heat presssing.
> 
> Though not the info you wanted, now you know.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


Hey! I found the exact thing around the time you sent the email on Friday. I was in the middle of a big plastisol job so I didn't have time to experiment. 

Yes, prints were gorgeous. Press was muddy. It pressed so much better using Transjet II although there was a bit of a color shift there. 

I would be happy to play with time and temp a bit, give me a direction to go in.

I remember reading the paper does need a minimum temp to press well as some people were on the low end of it and having problems?

Should I drop to a lower temp?

I will keep you posted. Meanwhile I did receive some Duracotton Oil and will test it in my old 4500, providing it still has a complete toner set LOl

My issue is that I have both these printers and having just bought a new heat press, do not have money in the budget for a new Oki so that's why I'm sticking with what I have, for the moment. It's more of a "if they work, great, if not, business as usual till the funds are there".

But it would be neat if at least one of them worked. 

Diane


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> Hey! I found the exact thing around the time you sent the email on Friday. I was in the middle of a big plastisol job so I didn't have time to experiment.
> 
> Yes, prints were gorgeous. Press was muddy. It pressed so much better using Transjet II although there was a bit of a color shift there.
> 
> I would be happy to play with time and temp a bit, give me a direction to go in.
> 
> I remember reading the paper does need a minimum temp to press well as some people were on the low end of it and having problems?
> 
> Should I drop to a lower temp?
> 
> I will keep you posted. Meanwhile I did receive some Duracotton Oil and will test it in my old 4500, providing it still has a complete toner set LOl
> 
> My issue is that I have both these printers and having just bought a new heat press, do not have money in the budget for a new Oki so that's why I'm sticking with what I have, for the moment. It's more of a "if they work, great, if not, business as usual till the funds are there".
> 
> But it would be neat if at least one of them worked.
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

The key for the Phaser to work is to bring down the heat press temp. As you do so, extend the time in the heat press. The challenge is to identify at what temp., the wax stops running and at what time, the DuraCotton OIL will still release. You likely will need to press for a few seconds with Teflon (c) to smooth the transfer and drive it into the cotton.

It is best to test with DuraCotton OIL - it has the lowest fusing temp.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> The key for the Phaser to work is to bring down the heat press temp. As you do so, extend the time in the heat press. The challenge is to identify at what temp., the wax stops running and at what time, the DuraCotton OIL will still release. You likely will need to press for a few seconds with Teflon (c) to smooth the transfer and drive it into the cotton.
> 
> It is best to test with DuraCotton OIL - it has the lowest fusing temp.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> have a great one!


OK, I did some testing after I responded last night. I first dropped the temp but the paper didn't want to peel so I went up on temp. I didn't change the time at all.

I can try the lower temp w/more time later.

I have 2 sheets of OIL that just came in. First priority with them is the HP 4500 (at least one sheet  ) Then I'll see if I can run the 2nd through the Phaser.

Thanks!


----------



## Dave_S

After the not so good experience in Epson c900 toner / washing / duracotton combo i took the plunge today and purchased an Oki c5800, should be arriving tomorrow....they are more expensive here in the U.K £525 (approx $1050).......looking forward to good washability this time! will keep the post informed on the results............

Dave


----------



## embthreads

Has anyone tried the Duracotton HT in their Oki printer using compatible toners?


----------



## Rodney

embthreads said:


> Has anyone tried the Duracotton HT in their Oki printer using compatible toners?


Have you read this post: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t14003.html


----------



## DuraCotton98

embthreads said:


> Has anyone tried the Duracotton HT in their Oki printer using compatible toners?


Hi Deb:

To my knowledge, no one has tested Oki compatible toners. I am aware that one user is planning on giving compatible toners a try. I am sure once they test all apsects, including wash, that they will post the results right here on T-ShirtForums.com. That party is currently awaiting for the toner to arrive and planning on using the compatibles once their OEM toner runs out.

have a great one!


----------



## embthreads

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Deb:
> 
> To my knowledge, no one has tested Oki compatible toners. I am aware that one user is planning on giving compatible toners a try. I am sure once they test all apsects, including wash, that they will post the results right here on T-ShirtForums.com. That party is currently awaiting for the toner to arrive and planning on using the compatibles once their OEM toner runs out.


Thanks Ken. I will hold off on replacing my toner until I get some feedback on the compatibles. I would really like to use this DuraCotton paper for transfers. I'.m still running my Alps but don't want to sink more $$ into carts for that. Plan on selling it if I can get the OKI setup for transfers. Just by chance is the DuraTrans compatible with the OKI? I still have a full pack that I would like to use up if possible. Have a great weekend.


----------



## edwin 98

Deb: Yes, DuraCotton HT works with OKI Printers Tomorrow is the last day Staples is sell the OKI C5500n for $399.98 including a $200 Discount. BUY Office Depot has the Same sale going for another week. Best deal I have found on a OKI C5500n. 
Big Ed


----------



## Moonie

Edwin. Any word on the DuraCotton for darks yet?


----------



## DuraCotton98

embthreads said:


> DuraCotton98 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Deb:
> 
> To my knowledge, no one has tested Oki compatible toners. I am aware that one user is planning on giving compatible toners a try. I am sure once they test all apsects, including wash, that they will post the results right here on T-ShirtForums.com. That party is currently awaiting for the toner to arrive and planning on using the compatibles once their OEM toner runs out.
> 
> Thanks Ken. I will hold off on replacing my toner until I get some feedback on the compatibles. I would really like to use this DuraCotton paper for transfers. I'.m still running my Alps but don't want to sink more $$ into carts for that. Plan on selling it if I can get the OKI setup for transfers. Just by chance is the DuraTrans compatible with the OKI? I still have a full pack that I would like to use up if possible. Have a great weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deb:
> 
> Duratrans has a much lower melting temp than DuraCotton HT (actually even lower than DuraCotton OIL). As such, Duratrans will likely melt and jam in the Oki.
> 
> Pls take note of the Oki specials on at Staples.com and Office Depot. The Oki is significantly lower in operating cost structure than the Alps (per equal print), produces more vibrant colors and has equal low-term durability as the original Duracotton (color outlasts the fabric) when printing with DuraCotton HT.
> 
> have a great one!
Click to expand...


----------



## embthreads

edwin 98 said:


> Deb: Yes, DuraCotton HT works with OKI Printers Tomorrow is the last day Staples is sell the OKI C5500n for $399.98 including a $200 Discount. BUY Office Depot has the Same sale going for another week. Best deal I have found on a OKI C5500n.
> Big Ed


I currently have a 5200N and am not in the market for another. If anyone is in the mkt for an OKI and don't mind openbox or refurbed to specs with warranty, Tech for Less: Great Prices-Satisfaction Guaranteed on computers, laptops, monitors, printers, PDAs, mp3 players, digital cameras, DVD players/burners, plasma TVs and more. where I bought mine has a great deal on the OKI 3200's for $219 and free shipping. That is where I got my 5200N and they are good to work with.


----------



## embthreads

Rodney said:


> Have you read this post: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t14003.html


Yes I did read the post....he used OEM toner...curious minds want to know about results with compatible toners???


----------



## lonesome joe

Hmmm... Duracotton HT looks like a product I'd like to see. I don't have a laser printer, tho, and I'd really like to see some transfers to see if it REALLY produces an image without the huge plastic rectangle I get from inkjet paper. Anyone using this stuff in the eastern Kansas/Western Missouri area? I'd like to drop in for a chat. Also, I had a problem with the autoart and autoartusa web sites. When I accessed them, the text and graphics were jumbled and squashed on top of each other. I couldn't read most of it. Anyone else have this? Thanx.
Ed


----------



## Mystic

lonesome joe said:


> Hmmm... Duracotton HT looks like a product I'd like to see. I don't have a laser printer, tho, and I'd really like to see some transfers to see if it REALLY produces an image without the huge plastic rectangle I get from inkjet paper. Ed


Hello Ed,

You should take a look at this thread, you will the process someone went through with Dutracotten HT.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t14003.html


----------



## diane143

OUCH! Tested the OIL with my HP 4500 and it melted to the fuser.
Waiting for it to cool so I can try and salvage it.

Luckily, fuser only had 4% of life left. I'd like to reclaim it for more testing before buying a new one though.  And to appease hubby who is less than thrilled w/me at the moment!

OK, I had run the paper through Tray 1, on Glossy. Should I have used Heavy or Card Stock instead?

The site instructions didn't say for that printer (except that yes, *most* OIL will use Heavy)

Didn't someone here try the HP 4500? Thought I had read it but not in this thread I guess. 

Off to search some more.

Diane


----------



## diane143

Update:

Cooled the printer down, got the paper off, ran a 2nd through on PLAIN and it worked fine. Don't know when I'll test it but at least I have a good working copy now.

Will test my one remaining piece in the Phaser 8400 to see how the OIL works in that.

This is more an update for the database than anything else.


----------



## CoolTech

Diane,
From my experience with HP, the HP 4500 and 4550 were among the first of the HP line of non-oil laser printers. That may be the problem right there


----------



## CoolTech

Hi Ed,
I just tried DuraCottonHT on a tan t-shirt

This is the first time I have had this problem



















The white outline was not there after pressing.

It first showed up after washing the first time. After drying, it was still there.
===

Printer: Oki 5500
Temp: 410
Dwell: 15 sec.
Pressure: medium to hard
===

I have a number of these to press on tan, pink and light blue. 

Am I going to have issues with each of the colors?
Am I going to need to trim in order to stop this on the colors?

Any info/assistance would be greatly appreciated


----------



## diane143

CoolTech said:


> Diane,
> From my experience with HP, the HP 4500 and 4550 were among the first of the HP line of non-oil laser printers. That may be the problem right there


Yes, this is what I had read as well. The printer is in a server cabinet so it's not easy to open all the doors and really look in it.

OIL is what is recommended per their site and a phone conversation w/Ed. Could be because of the internal temps of the printer?

In any case, it did work once I changed the paper setting.

Ed or Ken, did you ever try the HT in the 4500's?

I have not been able to do my test pressing, hopefully tomorrow night.

If all goes well I want to get a bigger sample pack in for testing.

BTW the OIL went through the Phaser fine as well. Again, just need to test press.


----------



## yummymom007

thank you, i know Ed talked to me and said they were having problems with certain colors and brands. Did you prewash before pressing? I am going to try that and see what happens. 

Amanda



CoolTech said:


> Hi Ed,
> I just tried DuraCottonHT on a tan t-shirt
> 
> This is the first time I have had this problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white outline was not there after pressing.
> 
> It first showed up after washing the first time. After drying, it was still there.
> ===
> 
> Printer: Oki 5500
> Temp: 410
> Dwell: 15 sec.
> Pressure: medium to hard
> ===
> 
> I have a number of these to press on tan, pink and light blue.
> 
> Am I going to have issues with each of the colors?
> Am I going to need to trim in order to stop this on the colors?
> 
> Any info/assistance would be greatly appreciated


----------



## edwin 98

Amanda and Jim:

Re-outline around images on some colored shirts. We have found that on some light colored shirts that the outline of the paper and even the image of the paper appears after pressing. We have pressed the same color shirt from different Gildan mills and we have seen the problem from one mill and not the others or all mill except one. The only thing we can see as the difference is the SIZING used when the shirt is manufactured. I know even white Beefy Tees has so much sizing that we have had a problem with them again, depending on the Hanes mill the shirts came from. I have pressed white, ash (birch) and natural shirts and never had a problem. I have pressed Lt. Blue, Lt. Green, Tan and Lt. Pink and have had the problem with some and not had a problem with others.

Re-outline after washing. We have seen that problem on Gildan’s Vegas Gold. We think this may be a problem of how hard the water is were it is washed in combination with the polyester core that the DuraCotton paper lays down into the shirt. We used the Vegas Gold at a show in Charlotte NC and it pressed the way we wished everything pressed. When Ken washed his at home it developed the whit outline and by the 3rd or 4th wash the image area was back to normal. Here in New Jersey where the water is very hard it took 5 or 6 washing to lose the white in the image area. I have taked to people that say they have soft water and the have not seen the problem on Vegas Gold.

That is about all I know about the subject.

Big Ed.


----------



## mzmadmax

Ed,

You mention Gildan and Hanes Beefy T. Are there any other brands that you have tested that did not have any problems regardless of the mill or color?


----------



## spore

mzmadmax said:


> Ed,
> 
> You mention Gildan and Hanes Beefy T. Are there any other brands that you have tested that did not have any problems ?


 I'm currently using using Gildan Ultra Cotton. Before washing the shirt, the window is definitely visible. After washing, it seems to fade a bit. When dealing with non-plastisol transfer paper, ya gotta take what you can get...and Duracotton is some of the best paper out there.


----------



## machine27

spore said:


> I'm currently using using Gildan Ultra Cotton. Before washing the shirt, the window is definitely visible. After washing, it seems to fade a bit. When dealing with non-plastisol transfer paper, ya gotta take what you can get...and Duracotton is some of the best paper out there.


which printer?


----------



## spore

I'm printing with the Oki C3400


----------



## Decal_Designs

Well, it took me 3 days to read this whole thread, and besides having a huge headache and severe eye strain, I couldn't be more excited to try out the DuraCotton HT.

I have some samples coming in the mail from Big Ed at Dye-Namic Images. I am looking at buying the OKI C6100dn which is a Postscript compatible printer. I have been told that the Postscript printers are not having the best results with the wash testing. They lay down too much toner for some reason. The next step down would be the C5800ldn which we have been told gives excellent results and is not a Postscript printer.

I still don't understand why a Postscript compatible printer needs to lay down more toner.

After reading more about Postscript functionality, I find that I might need it for my other printing jobs like when I'm printing PDF, CorelDraw and Illustrator files. I also like the extra perks on the C6100dn like the slightly higher print speed, the better processor, and more RAM.

I've contacted someone that has the C6100dn available and he is receiving some blank DuraCotton HT samples from Big Ed as well. He will be printing some files that I sent him as a test. One logo with mostly blocks of single colors, one logo that is all black, and one photograph that has a lot of vibrant colors in it. He is going to play with the settings to see if the printer can achieve the desired results.

I'm thinking that instead of printing with the postscript print driver, maybe the supplied PCL driver would fix the situation. I've been told that I can switch the print drivers back and forth as needed.

Any thoughts on that Ken or Ed?

I have not seen the C6100 mentioned in this thread yet.
Has anybody tried one?


----------



## hammered

Any word on if the Samsung clp300 has been tested?


----------



## DuraCotton98

hammered said:


> Any word on if the Samsung clp300 has been tested?


Hi Dave:

Yes, the Samsung CLP 300 has been tested by Edwin. The results are encouraging. The washout (or lack of) is about equal to the Oki 3200 model - so very good at 10 washes - with just a slight hint of fade. On this model, there are NO paper settings - so just go with the fixed settings.

Here's to great transfers!

have a good one!


----------



## grumpster

Decal_Designs said:


> After reading more about Postscript functionality, I find that I might need it for my other printing jobs like when I'm printing PDF, CorelDraw and Illustrator files. I also like the extra perks on the C6100dn like the slightly higher print speed, the better processor, and more RAM.
> Has anybody tried one?


You don't need a postscript printer to print from PDF, Corel Draw or Illustrator files. I print from those apps all the time to various inkjet printers (Canon, Epson, HP) as well as my laser Oki 5200 without any problems. Postscript is simply another way of handling printer data, but is not requires for any of those applications. The regular drivers work just fine. 

some CAD programs "might" require postscript, but I'm not printing CAD on my T-shirts.


----------



## Decal_Designs

Thanks grumpster.

I'm going to have to look more into that then. I read here that most Adobe products might work better with postscript printers, but if I don't need it, that's good to know.

Then my question would still be, if I used the PCL print driver instead of the postscript driver with the OKI C6100 (both are supplied) would I get comparable image quality and wash durability as the c5800?

It doesn't make sense to me that a postscript driver would make the printer lay down more toner, so maybe the PCL driver wouldn't help anyway?


----------



## edwin 98

Decal_Designs said:


> Well, it took me 3 days to read this whole thread, and besides having a huge headache and severe eye strain, I couldn't be more excited to try out the DuraCotton HT.
> 
> I'm printing PDF, CorelDraw and Illustrator files. I also like the extra perks on the C6100dn like the slightly higher print speed, the better processor, and more RAM.


Even though I am on a MAC and use post script printers I also use my OKI 3200 to print from CorelDraw, Illustrator, and PDF. I also can use Photo Shop without a problem. Post Script printers have a tendency to Darken the colors and as I understand on a PC this cannot be controlled in the drivers. If the only reason you are buying a post script printer is the above programs you do not need to. But if you need it for some of the sign making programs then that is a different story.

Big Ed.


----------



## hammered

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Dave:
> 
> Yes, the Samsung CLP 300 has been tested by Edwin. The results are encouraging. The washout (or lack of) is about equal to the Oki 3200 model - so very good at 10 washes - with just a slight hint of fade. On this model, there are NO paper settings - so just go with the fixed settings.
> 
> Here's to great transfers!
> 
> have a good one!


Wow. Thanks, cause this is a real nice printer and for the price Im getting it, I couldnt say no.


----------



## Decal_Designs

edwin 98 said:


> Even though I am on a MAC and use post script printers I also use my OKI 3200 to print from CorelDraw, Illustrator, and PDF. I also can use Photo Shop without a problem. Post Script printers have a tendency to Darken the colors and as I understand on a PC this cannot be controlled in the drivers. If the only reason you are buying a post script printer is the above programs you do not need to. But if you need it for some of the sign making programs then that is a different story.
> 
> Big Ed.


 
Thank you Big Ed, that's encouraging that I can print out of those programs without too much trouble because I do that a lot.

I did call OKI last night and asked them about it too. At first I got the standard "we don't recommend any transfer paper in any of our printers", but I briefly explained that there is a new paper in town that is meant for the higher temp of a non oil laser printer.

This OKI guy said that the postscript printer should not be laying down more toner just because it's running postscript drivers. He also said that the c5500, c5800 and the c6100 all have the same fuser and should reach the pretty much the same temps for each similar setting.

Well, I guess I'm just going to wait until Mike from Printelogy sends me some samples printed with the c6100 and maybe I can get him to send the same graphics printed with the c5800. I can then press both samples side by side at the same temp and dwell time onto one shirt and compare from there. I can see if this particular model darkens the colors, or has any wash problems.

In the mean time, I hope all of my questioning is helping somebody besides just me.


----------



## PinkLaser

*Re: Diane HP 4500 - and "white" hand on colored tees ??*

Diane, I tried the HT with my HP 3600 (non oil) and the first run through (first print of the day) was fantastic, next 2 melted - I ran a few pieces of paper through and the fuser was fine. HP does not have a consistent fuser temp, so be careful w/ the HPs. I don't know about the 4500 in particular, but do know the 3600.

On another note: I pressed some transfers w/my OKI 5200. I found on yellow and pink shirts (the only colors I've tried so far) that there is a "light" hand. Light meaning lighter than the color. It's as though the area trimmed around the graphic was bleached. You could see it immediately after printing, but more after washing. I will post some pix after I get to work. I pressed at 410 degrees for 20 seconds and then repressed w/teflon sheet for 12 secs. I believe I used heavy pressure. Hard to tell on my press and I don't think I can crank it any more. I increased heat and had the same problem. Anything pressed on the Ash shirts looked good. Tiny bit of hand, but after washing, wasn't very noticeable. 

I've got a job black block letters on light pink shirts that is about due and need some suggestions  shirts are 100% cotton Gildan brand. 

Any hints? Too much heat or too long maybe? 

Thanks!
Chris



diane143 said:


> OUCH! Tested the OIL with my HP 4500 and it melted to the fuser.
> Waiting for it to cool so I can try and salvage it.
> 
> Luckily, fuser only had 4% of life left. I'd like to reclaim it for more testing before buying a new one though.  And to appease hubby who is less than thrilled w/me at the moment!
> 
> OK, I had run the paper through Tray 1, on Glossy. Should I have used Heavy or Card Stock instead?
> 
> The site instructions didn't say for that printer (except that yes, *most* OIL will use Heavy)
> 
> Didn't someone here try the HP 4500? Thought I had read it but not in this thread I guess.
> 
> Off to search some more.
> 
> Diane


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: Diane HP 4500 - and "white" hand on colored tees ??*



PinkLaser said:


> Diane, I tried the HT with my HP 3600 (non oil) and the first run through (first print of the day) was fantastic, next 2 melted - I ran a few pieces of paper through and the fuser was fine. HP does not have a consistent fuser temp, so be careful w/ the HPs. I don't know about the 4500 in particular, but do know the 3600.
> 
> On another note: I pressed some transfers w/my OKI 5200. I found on yellow and pink shirts (the only colors I've tried so far) that there is a "light" hand. Light meaning lighter than the color. It's as though the area trimmed around the graphic was bleached. You could see it immediately after printing, but more after washing. I will post some pix after I get to work. I pressed at 410 degrees for 20 seconds and then repressed w/teflon sheet for 12 secs. I believe I used heavy pressure. Hard to tell on my press and I don't think I can crank it any more. I increased heat and had the same problem. Anything pressed on the Ash shirts looked good. Tiny bit of hand, but after washing, wasn't very noticeable.
> 
> I've got a job black block letters on light pink shirts that is about due and need some suggestions  shirts are 100% cotton Gildan brand.
> 
> Any hints? Too much heat or too long maybe?
> 
> Thanks!
> Chris


Hi Chris:

When you printed DuraCotton HT with the HP 3600 printer, it worked perfectly, then the printer fuser became too hot (paper melted and jammed).

Try a cooler / faster printer setting than what you used. For example, try Transparency or Glossy rather than Plain paper. This adjustment might fix the jamming issue (as you note, the HP's are near impossible to control the fusing temp). Pls note, you may need to run a few plain paper sheets through to warm the fuser up before running DuraCotton HT (otherwise, toner may not stick to the coating).

With your Oki 5200, there is NO need to press for 20 seconds and then 10 seconds with Telfon (c) at 410 F degrees. Cut back you times to 14 - 15 seconds for the first press and then 3 - 4 seconds with the Teflon. If these times do not work perfectly, then check your press for a true temperature setting (actual temp may be too low).

Our testing shows no color distortion after the first pressing and a bit with washing. After 4 - 5 washes, the color distortion of the shirt (color) has ended.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## PinkLaser

Great! Thanks, Ken! I'll try those suggestions 

Chris


----------



## diane143

*Re: Diane HP 4500 - and "white" hand on colored tees ??*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Try a cooler / faster printer setting than what you used. For example, try Transparency or Glossy rather than Plain paper. This adjustment might fix the jamming issue (as you note, the HP's are near impossible to control the fusing temp). Pls note, you may need to run a few plain paper sheets through to warm the fuser up before running DuraCotton HT (otherwise, toner may not stick to the coating).



Ken,

Can you make a note of this on your site, whether it's generic or specific to the HPs? I would have thought that the Plain paper setting would be the faster/cooler one. I think I had set the 4500 to Glossy first when it stuck, and it worked fine on plain.

Now that taxes are done, I have one more plastisol shirt order and I can start playing with the OIL that Ed sent me. I'll take notes and send them along to you. But last week there was not much detail on the 4500 settings.

Thanks!


----------



## periscope

I just received my new Okidata C3400. What great colours! I ran a couple of Duracotton HT sheets through it using multi-purpose tray and straight path. It worked OK but if doing a quantity of transfers would mean hand feeding the paper. Has anyone had any problems printing the HT using normal tray?


----------



## PinkLaser

*Re: White outline on colored shirts (CoolTech)*

This is what I was talking about in post #*470* . (The "light" hand) One shirt was Gildan Lt. Pink 100% and the other Gildan gold 100%. Sorry, I had missed this post originally or would have commented here. I'm going to dig up a 50/50 shirt and try that. I'll let you know my results.

Take care,
Chris




CoolTech said:


> Hi Ed,
> I just tried DuraCottonHT on a tan t-shirt
> 
> This is the first time I have had this problem


----------



## edwin 98

To All Forum posters and lurkers: Staples has put the OKI C5500n on sale again at $399.98 after rebate. So any of us that have not bought the OKI to use with DuraCotton HT you have from Sunday 4/22/07 through 4/28/07 to get in on this deal.
Big Ed


----------



## htt117

Quick question on costs. The specs say this printer will yield about 2000/5000 sheets at 5% coverage. For transfers we will be at 50% or higher coverage most of the time. So we can expect 200 to 500 sheets per toner change. Lets use 275 sheets since the arithmetic is easier. This is about the same cost as replacing the four toner cartridges, so toner costs will be on the order of $1.00 per page. I haven't checked the paper price, but it should be somewhat less than this per page, so I can expect my material cost to be about $1.50 to $2.50 per 8.5 X 11 page, right??


----------



## edwin 98

htt117 said:


> Quick question on costs. The specs say this printer will yield about 2000/5000 sheets at 5% coverage. For transfers we will be at 50% or higher coverage most of the time. So we can expect 200 to 500 sheets per toner change. Lets use 275 sheets since the arithmetic is easier. This is about the same cost as replacing the four toner cartridges, so toner costs will be on the order of $1.00 per page. I haven't checked the paper price, but it should be somewhat less than this per page, so I can expect my material cost to be about $1.50 to $2.50 per 8.5 X 11 page, right??


Jim: This is the way I figure it. There two different types of toner cartridges the first set will do 2000 letter sheets at 5% or a total of 8000 sheets for the 4 toners. This gives you a total of 800 sheets of 50% coverage. The price of the cartridges on the OKI web site for the Black cartridge is $50.00 and each of the color cartridges at $78.00 for a total of $284.00. Divide this by the 800 sheets and you get 35.5¢ a sheet for the toner. If you were doing full color photos you would get a price of 71¢ a sheet for the toners.

The other option on the OKI web site is the 5000 sheet cartridges the Black is $108 and Colors are $165.00 each for a total of $603.00. This will give you a total of 20,000 sheets a 5% coverage or 2,000 sheets at 50% coverage or 30.2¢ a sheet for toner. Or 60.4¢ a sheet for full coverage for toner.

To any of these prices you add 1 sheet of DuraCotton HT Letter at 49.5¢ (this is the 200 sheet price on our web site). The worst case is is 71¢ for toner + 49.5¢ for paper = $1.205 if you are doing a full page photo or in the case of 50% coverage the cost is 85¢ 

Big Ed


----------



## DuraCotton98

edwin 98 said:


> Jim: This is the way I figure it. There two different types of toner cartridges the first set will do 2000 letter sheets at 5% or a total of 8000 sheets for the 4 toners. This gives you a total of 800 sheets of 50% coverage. The price of the cartridges on the OKI web site for the Black cartridge is $50.00 and each of the color cartridges at $78.00 for a total of $284.00. Divide this by the 800 sheets and you get 35.5¢ a sheet for the toner. If you were doing full color photos you would get a price of 71¢ a sheet for the toners.
> 
> The other option on the OKI web site is the 5000 sheet cartridges the Black is $108 and Colors are $165.00 each for a total of $603.00. This will give you a total of 20,000 sheets a 5% coverage or 2,000 sheets at 50% coverage or 30.2¢ a sheet for toner. Or 60.4¢ a sheet for full coverage for toner.
> 
> To any of these prices you add 1 sheet of DuraCotton HT Letter at 49.5¢ (this is the 200 sheet price on our web site). The worst case is is 71¢ for toner + 49.5¢ for paper = $1.205 if you are doing a full page photo or in the case of 50% coverage the cost is 85¢
> 
> Big Ed


Big Ed:

I am laughing out loud!

I have no idea in the world how you came up with this formula to calculate toner costs. But I will say your final answer is too close to have anyone question the end result. 

Based on my discussions with Oki Canada, you are in their ball park for the cost of toner per page at 50% coverage.

have a great one!


----------



## Thommo

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Generally, laser transfer paper can be a problem in copiers that use silicone oil to set the image. Various printers have different heat settings, even from the same maker e.g. Canon. Earlier models of the CLC range used more oil and less heat as against newer models with less oil and more heat. It's definitely no fun trying to pull a transfer out that's stuck to the fuser roller! A lot of new desk top lasers don't use fuser oil and therefore there should be no problems.


----------



## htt117

Remember that the $399 is after a $200 rebate. The sale price is $599 with a rebate. It will take 4 to 6 weeks to get the rebate back. This is a great deal on the printer, but the $200 tied up for more than a month can be a cash flow problem for some of us poor folk if you are not expecting it. (My printer arrived yesterday. I should have my paper by Monday. If things go as expected, we will be another convert from the inkjet world)


----------



## kmyck1

I am on the fence about getting a laser printer and going with the DuraCotton HT. I have the IronAll/Durabrite with an Epson R340 and the Artainum Sub inks with an Epson 88+ and am not happy with the results at all. I've invested a ton of money and time already, I want to make sure that I am going down the right road this time. 

I am looking at getting either the Oki 3200 or the Samsung CLP300 - does anyone have any suggestions? I am printing photo artwork and have a market opening in two weeks.

Thanks!
Kimberly


----------



## DuraCotton98

kmyck1 said:


> I am on the fence about getting a laser printer and going with the DuraCotton HT. I have the IronAll/Durabrite with an Epson R340 and the Artainum Sub inks with an Epson 88+ and am not happy with the results at all. I've invested a ton of money and time already, I want to make sure that I am going down the right road this time.
> 
> I am looking at getting either the Oki 3200 or the Samsung CLP300 - does anyone have any suggestions? I am printing photo artwork and have a market opening in two weeks.
> 
> Thanks!
> Kimberly


Hi Kimberly:

I strongly recommend the Oki 3400 over the 3200 - the toner is more vibrant and washes considerably better.

Thank you for considering DuraCotton HT paper

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi:

The message below is CRITICAL! for those seeking ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, 'Sublimation-like' color vibrancy.

Yesterday, I was at a customer site. This customer has had loads of issues pressing ZERO Hand. Together we pressed on his air-driven heat press - though we tried several prints we were not able to get the polymer without hand.

Then we went to his manual - it pressed with ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting required immediately.

We used the same time (14 - 15 seconds on the first pressing and 3 - 4 seconds on the 'Teflon' pressing) and the same temp 405 F / 207 C.

What differed was the pressure - on the manual, we used 3/4's pressure whereas on the air we were at 50 psi.

If you use air, please cut back on the pressure - you might test cutting back on the time (this should work though I have yet to test) and leave the pressure where it is.

We have wash tested many images with NO noticable color variances at the lower pressure (we, at AutoART , have been pressing with the lower pressure since late last year).

have a great one!


----------



## kmyck1

Thank you for the information, Ken! 

Bleary-eyed at 2 a.m. this morning, I decided to place an order for the Oki3200....but after getting your post, I was able to cancel it and get the Oki3400!

So now, I'll be needing to order the DuraCotton HT paper - I hope this works as well as I've read! I've had too many disappointments with other products and too much loss in time and money. 

One quick question....the DuraCotton Sub - can that work with this printer also, or will I need to get special toner cartridges for it?

Have a great one! Thank you again!

TTFN,
Kimberly


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Kimberly:

DuraCotton HT works as advertised - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting (required), 'Sublimation-like' color, provided you heat press as described (14-15 seconds, 405 F degrees, 3/4 pressure on a manual, HOT PEEL. Then overlay with a Teflon (c) sheet and press (405 F) for 3 - 4 seconds - HOT PEEL QUICKLY.

DuraCotton SUB is a two-step paper for INKJET SUBLIMATION.

You will not require DuraCotton SUB.

We are perfecting the settings to use DuraCotton HT on UNcoated mugs, tiles, metal, wood, plastic, ... The results are scratch resistant with 'Sublimation-like' color. Several customers have already perfected the process.

have a great one!


----------



## kmyck1

Ken, 

That sounds like exactly what I need! Bless you!!! I have been through heck with ink issues, ICC issues, transfer issues and major fade issues (with Durabrite inks and IA transfers). I have wound up wasting a small fortune and have a lot of damaged American Apparel shirts that are now functioning as rags! I have a Saturday Market opening in just over two weeks and no stock pressed because of continual problems with one thing or another....

I'm in Oregon - who do I contact to place an order?

THANK YOU AGAIN!
Kimberly


----------



## edwin 98

kmyck1 said:


> Ken,
> 
> That sounds like exactly what I need! Bless you!!! I have been through heck with ink issues, ICC issues, transfer issues and major fade issues (with Durabrite inks and IA transfers). I have wound up wasting a small fortune and have a lot of damaged American Apparel shirts that are now functioning as rags! I have a Saturday Market opening in just over two weeks and no stock pressed because of continual problems with one thing or another....
> 
> I'm in Oregon - who do I contact to place an order?
> 
> THANK YOU AGAIN!
> Kimberly


Kimberly:
You can go to our web site.

Big Ed


----------



## kmyck1

Hi there, Big Ed:

I am trying to order from your site - I click on the 100 sheets sample pack for 8 1/2x11 and it comes up with the 20 sample pack sheets when I go to order???

Thanks, 
Kimberly


----------



## harleyrider11

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Kimberly:
> 
> I strongly recommend the Oki 3400 over the 3200 - the toner is more vibrant and washes considerably better.
> 
> Thank you for considering DuraCotton HT paper
> 
> have a great one!


Man I wish I would have saw this post, I just brought a 3200n Tuesday on ebay, Brand new, free shipping, includes toners & everything for $209.00. O'well just start with the DuraCotton not sure if this type of product will sell in my area, if not I just got a every inexpensive color laser to use at home. I guess other may not want this link to the one I brought, there is still 7 left.

eBay: Okidata OKI C3200n Color Laser LED Hi-Speed Printer (item 200106481455 end time Jun-02-07 13:13:41 PDT)

Ken thanks for all you suggestions in your prior posts.


----------



## kmyck1

I had already purchased the Oki 3200, but was able to cancel the order before it shipped and get the Oki 3400. I ordered it from here: OKI PRINTING SOLUTIONS 62426904 OKI C3400n - Printer - color - LED - Legal, A4 - 1200 dpi x 600 dpi - up to 20 ppm (mono) / up to 16 ppm (color) - capacity: 250 sheets - USB, 10/100Base-TX ( refurbished hp laser printers ). The printers have full manufacturer warranty and the customer service is awesome!

TTFN,
Kimberly


----------



## machine27

I have the OKI 5500 it works great-but I do have one annoying problem.
on whites i get a few little specks of ? dust? lint? bad paper? this never happens 
when I do my plastisol transfers only with Duracotton HT paper. any clues?
I do see a few little specks on the paper after I've peeled it.


----------



## edwin 98

machine27 said:


> I have the OKI 5500 it works great-but I do have one annoying problem.
> on whites i get a few little specks of ? dust? lint? bad paper? this never happens
> when I do my plastisol transfers only with Duracotton HT paper. any clues?
> I do see a few little specks on the paper after I've peeled it.


Jim:	Per our phone conversation try: 1) cleaning the fuser by running some 24 lb. paper through the printer. 2) press some blank paper onto a old shirt and see if you are getting these spots. 3) make sure your heat press is up to temperature evenly across the whole press. Call me if and let me know the results.

Big Ed


----------



## KenS

I have spent 3 days, in between customers and phone calls, reading this thread. This sounds very interesting indeed. I do already own a Minolta laser, but it appears as though it will not suffice. We just added stock transfers to our business and it is doing pretty well. This would definitely add to that. While I have read every reply here, I have not researched the printers themselves. Are all of the Oki printers standard size? Do they just do the 8.5x11 and 8.5x14?

How do these sizes work for everyone? Another question I have is how do you go about pricing your items that you do.


----------



## edwin 98

I have been told that OKI is coming out with a new printer that will do 11 X 17 and A3 format. It will use the same toner and engine that the C55500 and C5800 already use. They say it will be out in the next 30 to 60 days. I am also told that the price will be good for that size printer.

Big Ed


----------



## EandT ITALY

My first test with duracotton!!
Today I finally try duracotton HT (thanks Ken, Your r one of the most kind,nice and correct person I had ever find!!)
I'v got small problems with polymers (how u can see in pic)
But the very BIG problem is:
T-SHIRT BECOME "YELLOW" WHEN I PRESS IT!!! May be for temperature too high!!?? I set temperature to 200°C... may be my press comes higher.. does someone has had this problems?? does someones know how to solve it? I tried lower temperature...but seem not good for duracotton 
And at the end....ta-da!!! I try to put an immage on the wood....really cool 
So please...help me with the "yellow" problem!!!!
Thanks to all....and for another one more time: "THANKS KEN!!!!!!"


----------



## goodtease

Ok,

I am having problems with the duracotton HT and 98. they both fade really really bad when I wash. Also like EandT ITALY I get a yellow when I press on white. It requires a hot press and it scalds all the shirts. 

Just so you know I am using the Lexmark C530 Laser Printer. Using a GeoKight Press.

HELP!!


----------



## DuraCotton98

EandT ITALY said:


> My first test with duracotton!!
> Today I finally try duracotton HT (thanks Ken, Your r one of the most kind,nice and correct person I had ever find!!)
> I'v got small problems with polymers (how u can see in pic)
> But the very BIG problem is:
> T-SHIRT BECOME "YELLOW" WHEN I PRESS IT!!! May be for temperature too high!!?? I set temperature to 200°C... may be my press comes higher.. does someone has had this problems?? does someones know how to solve it? I tried lower temperature...but seem not good for duracotton
> And at the end....ta-da!!! I try to put an immage on the wood....really cool
> So please...help me with the "yellow" problem!!!!
> Thanks to all....and for another one more time: "THANKS KEN!!!!!!"


Hi Aurelio:

As emailed to you earlier, here are our thoughts:
try reducing the temperature about 3 C degrees (about 5 F degrees) and press for 14 - 15 seconds. Does the transfer paper peel nice and easily at the new lower temperature? Are you still scorching?

Asuuming an easy peel (no pulling or stretching of the shirt), are you still scorching? If so, lower the temp another 3 C / % F degrees (and repeat the above test).

Heat presses seem to NOT read temperatures accurately. Most tend to be cooler than the thermostat reads, some tend to be hotter (yours may be hotter than the reading - common in Europe).

You have made note of the polymer showing after pressing. Are you using the Teflon (c) sheet, placed over the image area, and pressing for 3 - 4 seconds? The Teflon (c) sheet 'fixes' the color toner for color vibrancy and wash durability, and drives the DuraCotton HT polymer deep into the fabric (extending the wash durability).

If you are using the Teflon (c), then reduce the pressure. Your pressure is too high.

For years at AutoART U(univeristy), we have taught the importance of getting to know your equipment. Everyone's heat press is 'different' and everyone presses slightly different. You need to know your equipment.

It may be a slight pain to perfect your heat press settings, but once you do, your shirts will be highly vibrant and wash durable - just like you dream! (Zero Hand, ZERO Cutting, 'Sublimation-like' Color Vibrancy

Good Luck!

have a great one


----------



## DuraCotton98

goodtease said:


> Ok,
> 
> I am having problems with the duracotton HT and 98. they both fade really really bad when I wash. Also like EandT ITALY I get a yellow when I press on white. It requires a hot press and it scalds all the shirts.
> 
> Just so you know I am using the Lexmark C530 Laser Printer. Using a GeoKight Press.
> 
> HELP!!


Hi Tony in New York:

Please read my response to Aurelio in Italy (just above).

As well, you mention scorching (yellowing) and that is an indication you are TOO HOT. In our wash tests, we have noticed that if you press too hot, then the wash durability suffers.

So, as recommended above, cut back on the heat and test.

In our experiences, and every heat press differs, the GeoKnight presses are very hot before pressing and the temperature drops significantly while the press is down (pressing the shirt). The temperature drop is so significant that it may fall below our targeted 400 - 405 F degrees.

Ideally, we want a steady temp - 400 to 405 F before pressing and during pressing.

When the temp is too low (during pressing), the paper peeling becomes difficult and the wash durability can be impacted.

Some users to compensate will take the temp up to 410 (to 450 in one case) F. This is when the shirts really beign to scorch. 

And the worst part, the temp readings tend to be wrong. You may think your press is at 400 when it really is at 425 or 430 (heavy scorching).

So what can you do? When I use a GeoKnight press, I take a pen and hit the thermometer - often times the temp adjusts. I also turn the temp up and reduce the time; I slightly increase the pressure.

These adjustments tend to compensate and achieve what I want: ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting (no polymer), 'Sublimation-Like' color vibrancy and NO scorching. As well, excellent wash durability.

Again, you need to KNOW your equipment!

If you are running automated equipment, then you need to reduce the presure to achieve ZERO Cutting (no polymer showing).

So please give it a try (or ten), get to know your equipment and start printing and pressing excellent shirts!

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## honzo

sorry guys....but lets assume I know very little,..

I was very close to buying all the equipment needed for inkjet printing but after reading this massively long thread I've decide to invest in laser + duracotton HT paper!

Before I buy my first printer, ..can some pls let me know the difference between the oki 3300 and the 3400/5500/5600 ...will i get a decent amount of washes from the 3300?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Are you in the market for an 11" x 17" color laser printer?

Check this out:

*Tuesday, May 8, 2007*

*New Large-Format Color Printer by OKI *


Okidata announced C8800 Series printer, a digital color large-format printer producing up to 11x17 in. printouts in compact design.

The new printer feature greater media control and flexibility, it allows printing banners 11x 47.25 in. which fits fine for architectural renderings and engineering design documents.

The printer is fast; it produces 26 pages per minute in color and 32 pages per minute in black-and-white at 1200x600 dpi resolution.

OKI C8800 Series printer is built using digital LED Technology and Single Pass Color Technology. The latter allows make products requiring fewer moving parts.

The estimated retail price of the C8800 Series starts at $2399. The printer will be available in North America in June 2007 through Okidata authorized providers.

We are currently beta testing printing DuraCotton HT. Very pleased!

have a great one!


----------



## numski

Ken/Big Ed,
For us folks who don't have the 2k+ for a large format laser color printer and want to use 11x17 paper, what other options do we have? I have called Staples, UPS Store, Kinkos and some others and have asked about using "special" paper with the copiers they have. All have said that they do not allow for usage of any paper other than what they have in stock, when I tell them it's for making heat transfers for t-shirts, they all say, "oh, we have paper for that...".  What can we say to them to assure them the paper has been tested and "approved" for usage with their copiers? Has anyone else tried? Anyone else have experiences with this? If so, please share. Thanks all!

-mark


----------



## edwin 98

numski said:


> Ken/Big Ed,
> For us folks who don't have the 2k+ for a large format laser color printer and want to use 11x17 paper, what other options do we have? I have called Staples, UPS Store, Kinkos and some others and have asked about using "special" paper with the copiers they have. All have said that they do not allow for usage of any paper other than what they have in stock, when I tell them it's for making heat transfers for t-shirts, they all say, "oh, we have paper for that...".  What can we say to them to assure them the paper has been tested and "approved" for usage with their copiers? Has anyone else tried? Anyone else have experiences with this? If so, please share. Thanks all!
> 
> -mark


One Option is to use a Service that will do large size transfers like: www.odtl.com They list pricing for 11 X 17 transfers. I have been told that they make them at Kinko's using the xerox DocUcolor 250 with out any problems.

Big Ed


----------



## edwin 98

numski said:


> Ken/Big Ed,
> For us folks who don't have the 2k+ for a large format laser color printer and want to use 11x17 paper, what other options do we have? I have called Staples, UPS Store, Kinkos and some others and have asked about using "special" paper with the copiers they have. All have said that they do not allow for usage of any paper other than what they have in stock, when I tell them it's for making heat transfers for t-shirts, they all say, "oh, we have paper for that...".  What can we say to them to assure them the paper has been tested and "approved" for usage with their copiers? Has anyone else tried? Anyone else have experiences with this? If so, please share. Thanks all!
> 
> -mark


One Option is to use a Service that will do large size transfers like: www.ondemandtransfers.com They list pricing for 11 X 17 transfers. I have been told that they make them at Kinko's using the xerox DocUcolor 250 with out any problems.

Big Ed


----------



## solomonshop

how will a HP 4500 hold up when printing duracotton98? Will it work?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Ryan:

We have had our issues with the HP printers. HP printers lack a voltage regulator meaning the fusing temperature will fluctuate with voltage - in times of high voltage, the HP fusers can run too hot for DuraCotton HT paper.

As such, we have not extensively tested the HP toners for color vibrancy and wash durability.

Now, we have an answer for the HP owners. Put a voltage regulator on the power line leading to the printer. That should give you constant voltage and allow you to choose the proper paper setting for DuraCotton HT. Then you can use the printer and DuraCotton HT day after day without fusing temperature issues.

There are HP users on DuraCotton HT and maybe they can comment about color vibrancy and wash durability.

have a great one!


----------



## solomonshop

When you speak of HT, is that the same as the 98? What I am asking is if that paper also requires no cutting to remove unwanted white space from transfers.


----------



## DuraCotton98

solomonshop said:


> When you speak of HT, is that the same as the 98? What I am asking is if that paper also requires no cutting to remove unwanted white space from transfers.


Hi Ryan:

DuraCotton HT is set up specifically for the non-oil laser printers and copiers.

DuraCotton 98 works with some 'older' non-oil laser printers and copiers + OIL-based laser printers and copiers.

All DuraCotton papers are ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting (Transfer without Borders), ...

have a great one!


----------



## SKA

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*

Has anyone tested these papers on a Konica Minolta 5430 printer?


----------



## mrstitch

Ken,

I use DC HT since it was released after giving up on the Oki before HT.
My printer is the HP 2605dn. The colors are vibrant and never had a problem with the paper melting to the fuser. I use the sheet feeder with glossy paper settings and occasionaly use the standard paper default setting with little or no change in color. 

I press at 390 (Insta press) for 10 seconds. I've yet to do extensive washings, but I've notice little fading after 3-4 washes. Often I get a small window, but I think that is temperature/press time related.

Hope this helps.

Dean



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Ryan:
> 
> We have had our issues with the HP printers. HP printers lack a voltage regulator meaning the fusing temperature will fluctuate with voltage - in times of high voltage, the HP fusers can run too hot for DuraCotton HT paper.
> 
> As such, we have not extensively tested the HP toners for color vibrancy and wash durability.
> 
> Now, we have an answer for the HP owners. Put a voltage regulator on the power line leading to the printer. That should give you constant voltage and allow you to choose the proper paper setting for DuraCotton HT. Then you can use the printer and DuraCotton HT day after day without fusing temperature issues.
> 
> There are HP users on DuraCotton HT and maybe they can comment about color vibrancy and wash durability.
> 
> have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

mrstitch said:


> Ken,
> 
> I use DC HT since it was released after giving up on the Oki before HT.
> My printer is the HP 2605dn. The colors are vibrant and never had a problem with the paper melting to the fuser. I use the sheet feeder with glossy paper settings and occasionaly use the standard paper default setting with little or no change in color.
> 
> I press at 390 (Insta press) for 10 seconds. I've yet to do extensive washings, but I've notice little fading after 3-4 washes. Often I get a small window, but I think that is temperature/press time related.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Dean


Dean:

Thank you!

This helps the HP printer users immensely.

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



SKA said:


> Has anyone tested these papers on a Konica Minolta 5430 printer?


Hi Sharon:

The KonicaMinolta toners (both color laer printers and copiers) are heavily washing out (something like 50%) on the first wash.  We have several reports from around the world of such.

Also, please note that some Epson color laser printers use the KonicaMinolta toner. Again washout is a disaster

have a great one!


----------



## SKA

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Sharon:
> 
> The KonicaMinolta toners (both color laer printers and copiers) are heavily washing out (something like 50%) on the first wash. We have several reports from around the world of such.
> 
> Also, please note that some Epson color laser printers use the KonicaMinolta toner. Again washout is a disaster
> 
> have a great one!


Thanks Ken, I also emailed the company and they told me the same thing. Would you know what type of paper would be best to use with a Konica Minolta 5430?


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Ryan:
> 
> Now, we have an answer for the HP owners. Put a voltage regulator on the power line leading to the printer. That should give you constant voltage and allow you to choose the proper paper setting for DuraCotton HT. Then you can use the printer and DuraCotton HT day after day without fusing temperature issues.


What do you recommend for a voltage regulator?

This should help with the fuser eating the paper with no warning??  

Thanks!

Diane


----------



## Dave_S

Sharon, I used The Magic Touch TTC 3.1 with my Epson C900 CLP (which uses the same type of toner as the KM printers) with great results.

hope this helps

Dave


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> What do you recommend for a voltage regulator?
> 
> This should help with the fuser eating the paper with no warning??
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

It is not the printer that eats the paper but rather fluctuating voltage and or higher (than expected) voltage reaching the printer and fuser. Higher voltage causes the fuser to heat up too high.

I do not have any brand names nor models to suggest. Talk at your computer store.

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

I figured out why. I picked up the OIL by mistake, which jams in this printer. Figured it out this morning when I looked at it again. <smacks head>

I'll still look into it, the APC ones I found were not that expensive.

No more decent computer stores are left around here, they are all big-box. (my first job was computer sales)

Thanks!


----------



## oldscot

Dave_S said:


> Sharon, I used The Magic Touch TTC 3.1 with my Epson C900 CLP (which uses the same type of toner as the KM printers) with great results.
> 
> hope this helps
> 
> Dave


There appears to be no US distributor for the Magic Touch Line of laser paper at this time. Out of curiousity, does the Magic Touch papers have to be trimmed around the printed image or does only the toner transfer to the substrate leaving no visible outline. This is what is so great about the Duracotton and hopefully Autoart will be able to come up with a paper in the future that will work well with the KM printers.


----------



## Cathybun

oldscot said:


> Out of curiousity, does the Magic Touch papers have to be trimmed around the printed image or does only the toner transfer to the substrate leaving no visible outline.


I have seen a sample of a new paper from the Magic Touch, which is called WOW. I have not actually pressed it or washed it, but saw it and felt it on a T-Shirt at a trade show. There is no cutting involved and the results looked very impressive to me.


----------



## norwalktee

Colorstarink.com has Magic Touch.


----------



## rdhracing

*Will DuraCotton papers work in heat press with max temp 399 degrees?*

 Does anybody know if DuraCotton 98 or HT transfer sheets will work with a heat press that only has a temperature range of 0 to 399 degrees?

I have read many posts in this thread where the temperature range needed to exceed 400 degrees to prevent wash out of design when using laser printers. 

*Does anybody have a heat press like this and know if DuraCotton transfer sheets will work with it using either a laser (DuraCotton 98 or HT) or inkjet printer (DuraCotton Sub)?* 

If No, would the DuraCotton Sub sheets work as first step to treat cottons and 50/50 blends before applying a Dye-Sublimation transfer sheet that was printed using a inkjet printer, Epson C88, with bulk dye-sub ink? I'm told OEM ink, DuraBrite, that comes in a Epson C88 definetely would not work, but if I convert ink to dye-sub ink using a bulk ink system it will????​ 
Your replys are greatly appreciated! 

Heat Press Specs:
1.Electronic digital control, Pressure adjusted easily
2.Voltage:110V
3.Weight:28KGS
4.Heat platen: *15 x 15 inches*
5.Temperature Range:0-399
6.Timer:0-99 Sec
7.Heating time: (Room temperature-200C)3 minutes
8.Automatic Alarm​


----------



## Dave_S

Thanks Norwalktee, you beat me to it....the TTC papers do leave a slight polymer window, yes, I always trim.

Dave


----------



## DuraCotton98

*Re: Will DuraCotton papers work in heat press with max temp 399 degrees?*



rdhracing said:


> Does anybody know if DuraCotton 98 or HT transfer sheets will work with a heat press that only has a temperature range of 0 to 399 degrees?
> 
> I have read many posts in this thread where the temperature range needed to exceed 400 degrees to prevent wash out of design when using laser printers.
> 
> *Does anybody have a heat press like this and know if DuraCotton transfer sheets will work with it using either a laser (DuraCotton 98 or HT) or inkjet printer (DuraCotton Sub)?*
> 
> If No, would the DuraCotton Sub sheets work as first step to treat cottons and 50/50 blends before applying a Dye-Sublimation transfer sheet that was printed using a inkjet printer, Epson C88, with bulk dye-sub ink? I'm told OEM ink, DuraBrite, that comes in a Epson C88 definetely would not work, but if I convert ink to dye-sub ink using a bulk ink system it will????​
> Your replys are greatly appreciated!
> 
> Heat Press Specs:
> 1.Electronic digital control, Pressure adjusted easily
> 2.Voltage:110V
> 3.Weight:28KGS
> 4.Heat platen: *15 x 15 inches*
> 5.Temperature Range:0-399
> 6.Timer:0-99 Sec
> 7.Heating time: (Room temperature-200C)3 minutes
> 
> 8.Automatic Alarm​


Hi Beth:

I rather doubt that DuraCotton HT will work with the above press. The paper is very demanding especially when the press is down (pressing).

Certainly, the DuraCotton SUB should be fine in the fine

Good Luck!


----------



## rdhracing

*Re: Will DuraCotton papers work in heat press with max temp 399 degrees?*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Beth:
> 
> I rather doubt that DuraCotton HT will work with the above press. The paper is very demanding especially when the press is down (pressing).
> 
> Certainly, the DuraCotton SUB should be fine in the fine
> 
> Good Luck!


I did some testing, Guess what, the 0 to 399 is Celsius, not Fahrenheit, go figure, I should have learned to read Chinese, all meters/indictors are written in Chinese.

No directions came with my press, seller said self explanatory. Well, he was right after first attempt. I set press to heat to 350, well silly me, that was 350 Celsius and I created one Smokin tee-shirt! 

So, I now know my press exceeds temps of 660 degrees. I Pressed at 345 C for 15 to 20 seconds, wah=lah, one toasted tee!!! I should put it for sale on eBay, it looks like one toasted marshmellow!


----------



## GeordieLad

*Re: Diane HP 4500 - and "white" hand on colored tees ??*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Chris:
> 
> When you printed DuraCotton HT with the HP 3600 printer, it worked perfectly, then the printer fuser became too hot (paper melted and jammed).
> 
> Try a cooler / faster printer setting than what you used. For example, try Transparency or Glossy rather than Plain paper. This adjustment might fix the jamming issue (as you note, the HP's are near impossible to control the fusing temp). Pls note, you may need to run a few plain paper sheets through to warm the fuser up before running DuraCotton HT (otherwise, toner may not stick to the coating).
> 
> With your Oki 5200, there is NO need to press for 20 seconds and then 10 seconds with Telfon (c) at 410 F degrees. Cut back you times to 14 - 15 seconds for the first press and then 3 - 4 seconds with the Teflon. If these times do not work perfectly, then check your press for a true temperature setting (actual temp may be too low).
> 
> Our testing shows no color distortion after the first pressing and a bit with washing. After 4 - 5 washes, the color distortion of the shirt (color) has ended.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> have a great one!



When you say to press with Teflon sheet do you mean IMMEDIATELY after? Do you not find that the image may be a little stick and you end up with ink on the Teflon?


----------



## jnjsweetened

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Chielant:
> 
> While you are learning whether you require oil or HT paper, please also identify the manufacturer's name and model number. We could easily have some results already on that equipment so we could pass along the paper setings etc.
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


Hi Ken,
I got your DuraCotton HT this week and I just tried it - I am having so much problem with paper jam and melting with the paper. I have HP Color Laserjet 3700, I already wasted 10, trying out different print settings. Please help me, I have orders due on Monday. Maybe you have results already for this equipment.

Thanks,
Jhoyce


----------



## oneeyedjack

Hi People,

Lots of good info in this thread.I have oki 3400.I got the HT paper a few days ago and so far not to bad.now what is the suggestion for pressing ,with or without the teflon sheet on the first press.Also on the second press with the teflon i find that a fair amount of toner is left on teflon after pressing for the 3-4 seconds.Is that to be expected.Now for pressure.How do u tell if you are using enough.should there be a good amount of force needed to close press to have the right pressure.


----------



## diane143

Anyone try a prep spray for color-fastness? I just put all OEM toners in my HP 4500 and I'm actually seeing more washout, but I do have less hand.

I may put the generic ones back in and retest tomorrow.

Somewhere there has to be a happy medium.


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> Anyone try a prep spray for color-fastness? I just put all OEM toners in my HP 4500 and I'm actually seeing more washout, but I do have less hand.
> 
> I may put the generic ones back in and retest tomorrow.
> 
> Somewhere there has to be a happy medium.


Hi Diane:

Big Ed should respond to this. Last week, we were all together at a week long trade show and I heard his sone Paul mention to several potential users that the HP toner is as good as the Oki toner - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, excellent wash durability.


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> Big Ed should respond to this. Last week, we were all together at a week long trade show and I heard his sone Paul mention to several potential users that the HP toner is as good as the Oki toner - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, excellent wash durability.


I ordered paper from Paul last week (thanks for getting it out so quickly!!!)

Last night I found in my testing pile a shirt I had done a few weeks ago. It had been washed at least once but the color was great.

I've washed it 3-4 more times since then and color is still great.

New shirts I've done are fading in ONE wash! Horribly.

I've gone back to more pressure, I'd be willing to sacrifice hand for color. But I haven't found the magic combination yet.

Except for some temp and pressure tweaking, the ONLY thing different is a new set of OEM cartridges which on paper look better than the generics that were in there. I can put the generics back tonight but I'd hate to think I wasted the money on OEM for nothing.

My specs are as follows:
GeoKnight DK20S
HP Color Laserjet 4500
OEM toners

The other thing I did was switch my colors to RGB but I can't see where that would play a role in washability.

I bought a pyrometer as well so I could calibrate the press. I am at or above 400 degrees. It was quite a bit off before, I was actually below 400.

I had tried more temp and less pressure and got a lot of fading. Should I drop the temp back down? Maybe start at 395?

I am peeling hot then pressing for a few seconds with a teflon sheet.

I thought for a moment I had grabbed a TJII shirt but by the hand and color (sometimes I get color shifts), I am positive that the "good" shirt I have is in fact Duracotton HT. I tested a TJII side by side this morning and the color is considerably off and hand considerably more. This old shirt was the same day I was testing on lights, I had done a ton of HT tests that day and for SOME reason I did not mark this shirt. 

I have a 100 shirt double sided order due Thursday morning so I'm a little panicked at this point!  I *thought* it was all worked out last week.

I'm still suspect of the toners........

Thanks,

Diane


----------



## periscope

I have an Okidata c3400 and have been doing a lot of experimenting lately re time, temp and pressure. I had been using 405 degrees but some toner still remained. I increased the temp to 408 degrees, the time to 18 sec with pressure at 60 lb on an air press. Still some toner remained on the paper. I increased the pressure to 70 lb and am now getting consistantly good transfers with some hand but not shiny. The additional 3 sec with teflon does help reduce the hand.


----------



## oneeyedjack

Ed,
do you do your first press with teflon and on second press does some toner stick to teflon sheet.when i press for 3 secs and peel some toner transfers to teflon


----------



## edwin 98

oneeyedjack said:


> Ed,
> do you do your first press with teflon and on second press does some toner stick to teflon sheet.when i press for 3 secs and peel some toner transfers to teflon


One Eyed: I press for 15 Seconds at a true 400 degrees F with the transfer face down of the shirt and a piece of Teflon over the transfer. Then I hot peel the transfer. While the shirt is still hot I put the Teflon back over the printed transfer press for 3 or 4 seconds then I hot peel again. I have never left toner on the Teflon. If I did I would have cleaned the Teflon by taking some net fabric and wiping down the sheet without using water.

Big Ed


----------



## diane143

edwin 98 said:


> One Eyed: I press for 15 Seconds at a true 400 degrees F with the transfer face down of the shirt and a piece of Teflon over the transfer. Then I hot peel the transfer. While the shirt is still hot I put the Teflon back over the printed transfer press for 3 or 4 seconds then I hot peel again.


Ed , have you found the first teflon press makes a difference?

I rarely do that but certainly can start.

Thanks


----------



## edwin 98

diane143 said:


> Ed , have you found the first teflon press makes a difference?
> 
> I rarely do that but certainly can start.
> 
> Thanks


Diane: I usually use the Teflon sheet from force of habit I do not want to take the chance that any toner will get on the top platen. I have pressed to many things that can put toner on the top platen also it helps the to stop scorching.

Big Ed


----------



## diane143

I have not had scorching issues at this time but I am having washability issues now!

Did you see my earlier message?

Thanks!


----------



## DuraCotton98

oneeyedjack said:


> Ed,
> do you do your first press with teflon and on second press does some toner stick to teflon sheet.when i press for 3 secs and peel some toner transfers to teflon


Hi Oneeyedjack:

If there is toner showing up one the Teflon (c) sheet (after the 4 second pressing), that indicates the first pressing was lacking. The first issue to check would be the heat press temp - I would likely take it up 5 F / 3 C degrees, and test again. If toner is still on the Teflon, then increase temp again.

When pressed correctly, you can pressed without Teflon and no toner will stick to the upper platinum (and there will be no damage to the image either).

Personally, I do not use Teflon with the first pressing. Since the transfer has paper on it, there is no chance to 'release' toner to the upper platinum.

If you do have scorching issues, then of course, we recommend the Teflon for the first pressing.

Good Luck!


----------



## goodtease

Ok,

I need to know if anyone is using a Lexmark printer to print on Duracotton HT. I am still having issues with fading....I don't know if it is the toner or the way I press. But I have followed ALL instructions in here and still get fading on the shirt....maybe I am being picky but the colors don't seem as vibrant as when I first press them. Any suggestions? Could it be the Lexmark Toner??

Who has printed on duracottonHT without fading? I use 100% cotton and use a geo knight press...lexmark C530 duplex printer...settings...best qualty, glossy, manual feed. press at 400 with Teflon sheet...hot peel...then press again for 5 seconds. 

I just tried another paper...and did a wash test and it didn't fade as bad as the duracotton. but of course the duracotton feels better.

help!


----------



## DuraCotton98

goodtease said:


> Ok,
> 
> I need to know if anyone is using a Lexmark printer to print on Duracotton HT. I am still having issues with fading....I don't know if it is the toner or the way I press. But I have followed ALL instructions in here and still get fading on the shirt....maybe I am being picky but the colors don't seem as vibrant as when I first press them. Any suggestions? Could it be the Lexmark Toner??
> 
> Who has printed on duracottonHT without fading? I use 100% cotton and use a geo knight press...lexmark C530 duplex printer...settings...best qualty, glossy, manual feed. press at 400 with Teflon sheet...hot peel...then press again for 5 seconds.
> 
> I just tried another paper...and did a wash test and it didn't fade as bad as the duracotton. but of course the duracotton feels better.
> 
> help!


Hi Tony:

Given the excellent results achieved using the Oki toners with DuraCotton HT, we have not done any further testing with the Lexmark laser.

Originally, we did do extensive testing using DuraCotton 98 and the results were quite good. DuraCotton 98 is available and is selling well in specific markets. I wonder, now that we all know so much more, if you should again test some DuraCotton 98 with your Lexmark?

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> I have not had scorching issues at this time but I am having washability issues now!
> 
> Did you see my earlier message?
> 
> Thanks!


Hi Diane:

Try increasing your pressure just a bit. 

With the Teflon overlay, it is critical to drive the polymer (and toner) into the cotton. If the pressure is too light, the polymer sits on top and the color can wash out.

Traditional transfers sit on top of the cotton / polycotton substrates. DuraCotton transfers (polymers and color toners) are 'driven' down inside the knit of the fabric. The purpose of the Teflon (c) overlay is to drive the polymer down into the knit thereby improving wash durability.

If the pressure is too heavy, there will be hand (particularly side to side) and the transfer will be noisey if crunched in your hand. In this case, reduce your pressure slightly.

Just remember that each press and each operator is different. In Charlotte, the heat press was set up significantly different than the one in our office (pressure) yet the results - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, excellent wash durability - are virtually the same.

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> Try increasing your pressure just a bit.
> 
> With the Teflon overlay, it is critical to drive the polymer (and toner) into the cotton. If the pressure is too light, the polymer sits on top and the color can wash out.
> 
> Traditional transfers sit on top of the cotton / polycotton substrates. DuraCotton transfers (polymers and color toners) are 'driven' down inside the knit of the fabric. The purpose of the Teflon (c) overlay is to drive the polymer down into the knit thereby improving wash durability.
> 
> If the pressure is too heavy, there will be hand (particularly side to side) and the transfer will be noisey if crunched in your hand. In this case, reduce your pressure slightly.
> 
> Just remember that each press and each operator is different. In Charlotte, the heat press was set up significantly different than the one in our office (pressure) yet the results - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, excellent wash durability - are virtually the same.
> 
> have a great one!


Ken, I did a quick press this morning. 405-406 degrees, increased pressure back to where I started. 2 quick washes and it looks better than the one I did last night at 5 degrees less and one pressure notch less.

Will overlaying with teflon before peeling make a difference? I have not been doing that.

Also, on this order I have to do 2 images on the back of the shirt (don't have a large-format printer).

What is the best way to do this - lay them both out together and press and peel both as quickly as possible? Then do the teflon press. 

Or press 1st image, peel, place 2nd transfer, overlay entire back w/teflon, press, peel, overlay teflon and peel again.

Thanks again!

Diane


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> Ken, I did a quick press this morning. 405-406 degrees, increased pressure back to where I started. 2 quick washes and it looks better than the one I did last night at 5 degrees less and one pressure notch less.
> 
> Will overlaying with teflon before peeling make a difference? I have not been doing that.
> 
> Also, on this order I have to do 2 images on the back of the shirt (don't have a large-format printer).
> 
> What is the best way to do this - lay them both out together and press and peel both as quickly as possible? Then do the teflon press.
> 
> Or press 1st image, peel, place 2nd transfer, overlay entire back w/teflon, press, peel, overlay teflon and peel again.
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

Sounds like you are very close to perfection with your pressing and wash durability!

Overlaying with Teflon (c) for 4 - 5 seconds is critical to color vibrancy and WASH DURABILITY.

Remember there is NO need to pre-press to eliminate the moisture.

Re: two prints on the back. I do not have a preference as to which method works best - as such, do what works best for you. If you do the two-step (two pressings), I would only do one Teflon overlay - do not put the first image back in the press until the second image is pressed and peeled. Then overlay both together and press for 4 - 5 seconds.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> Sounds like you are very close to perfection with your pressing and wash durability!
> 
> Overlaying with Teflon (c) for 4 - 5 seconds is critical to color vibrancy and WASH DURABILITY.
> 
> Remember there is NO need to pre-press to eliminate the moisture.
> 
> Re: two prints on the back. I do not have a preference as to which method works best - as such, do what works best for you. If you do the two-step (two pressings), I would only do one Teflon overlay - do not put the first image back in the press until the second image is pressed and peeled. Then overlay both together and press for 4 - 5 seconds.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> have a great one!


Still having washout issues. I'm up to 410 on the press (which is a few degrees over) with a pretty heavy pressure. Not sure how much more pressure I can give it, although I can go up a higher on temp obviously.

The worst is maroon (I'm doing a light green/black with one maroon section).

Things have gotten slightly better but not to the point where I think they should be.

ps - I upped the toner density a bit as well (and tried what it should be and one below). That didn't seem to change anything

pps - I am pressing for 15 seconds, peeling and then putting the teflon sheet down for 3-4-5 seconds

Diane


----------



## GeordieLad

*Re: printer for HT -- best?*



DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi:
> 
> Just a few points to remember when buying the Oki printers:
> 1. The Oki 3400 is single sheet fed (mpt) and uses smaller toner cartridges (the cost of toner per print is higher).
> 2. The Oki 5500 prints DuraCotton HT in transparency mode (mpt). That means a button must be pushed between each print. Large toner cartridges are available - toner cost per print is lower.
> 3. The Oki 5800 prints at engine speed (mpt) - approx. 15 pages per minute (no buttons to push) and the larger toner cartridges are available - toner cost per print is lower.
> 
> Hope the above info helps you make a good business decision
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> ps mpt - multi-purpose tray


The OKI 5500 appears NOT to be available in Australia, but the 5800 is, so that would be just as good if not better? The 5900 is also available in Australia, does anyone know how it differs as it applies to printing on transfer paper?

cheers
GeordieLad
BrisneyLand, Australia


----------



## edwin 98

*Re: OKI C6000n Special Sale*

 Anyone still shopping for an OKIDATA Printer at a reasonable price.

The OKI C6000n is on special till June 29, 2007.
Orders must be placed by 8 PM EDT

See our web site for details

Big Ed


----------



## Dave_S

Craig, Same here, the 5500 is not available in the U.K, but we have the 5600 instead....I use the C5800 and well pleased with it, highly recommended. the differrence between the 5800 and 5900, all I can see is the processor in the 5900 is 500mhz as apposed to a 200mhz one in the 5800, and 256mb memory as apposed to 64mb in the 5800. I guess there wouldn't be much difference in the printing.

Hope this helps

Dave


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> Still having washout issues. I'm up to 410 on the press (which is a few degrees over) with a pretty heavy pressure. Not sure how much more pressure I can give it, although I can go up a higher on temp obviously.
> 
> The worst is maroon (I'm doing a light green/black with one maroon section).
> 
> Things have gotten slightly better but not to the point where I think they should be.
> 
> ps - I upped the toner density a bit as well (and tried what it should be and one below). That didn't seem to change anything
> 
> pps - I am pressing for 15 seconds, peeling and then putting the teflon sheet down for 3-4-5 seconds
> 
> Diane


Hi Diane:

Maroon is a heavy mix of toner deposits. By increasing the toner density, you are putting down more toner. And, by increasing the temperature you are on the edge of 'overcooking' the toner.

We have encouraged - initially by adjusting Lightness and Saturation in the Oki printer driver and now by reducing the toner density (printer hardware setting) - a reduction in the toner usage. Too much toner and our paper can not handle it all - the result shows up as washout.

We have also found that 'overcooking' the toner can also lead to above normal washout.

So each of the three - maroon, toner density and 'overcooking' can lead to above normal washout. While in your case, not one aspect is guilty, the combination of all three may be the cause of above normal washout.

I am sorry there is not one black - white answer for your situation.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## oneeyedjack

Hi ken,

I have the oki 3400.should i be printing in high quality,fine detail or normal and should toner saver be on or off.

Thanks
ONEEYEDJACK


----------



## DuraCotton98

oneeyedjack said:


> Hi ken,
> 
> I have the oki 3400.should i be printing in high quality,fine detail or normal and should toner saver be on or off.
> 
> Thanks
> ONEEYEDJACK


Hi OneEyedJack:

Toner saver should not be off.

My preferences are to use High Quality (Photo Enhanced on - an option with some printer models), always use K toner for 100% black areas - an option on some printer models - found under Job Options, Advanced in bottom right corner.

On the printer itself, reduce the toner density to MINUS 30 for CYM (this reduces the amount of toner printed). Previously we recommended adjusting Lightness and Saturation to reduce toner density - you may wish to continue to adjust Lightness and Saturation.

Be sure to test and adjust to meet your needs for color. 

The advantages to reducing the toner density at the printer are twofold: 1. less toner reduces your cost of printing and 2. improved wash durability.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> Maroon is a heavy mix of toner deposits. By increasing the toner density, you are putting down more toner. And, by increasing the temperature you are on the edge of 'overcooking' the toner.
> 
> We have encouraged - initially by adjusting Lightness and Saturation in the Oki printer driver and now by reducing the toner density (printer hardware setting) - a reduction in the toner usage. Too much toner and our paper can not handle it all - the result shows up as washout.
> 
> We have also found that 'overcooking' the toner can also lead to above normal washout.
> 
> So each of the three - maroon, toner density and 'overcooking' can lead to above normal washout. While in your case, not one aspect is guilty, the combination of all three may be the cause of above normal washout.
> 
> I am sorry there is not one black - white answer for your situation.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> have a great one!


Ken, I did find my black and white answer! A very depressing one at that.... it's the OEM toners!

I still need to complete some testing but I spent ALL day yesterday fighting with this (with brand new OEM toners) to no avail. I must've done 15 loads of just-pressed shirts yesterday.

Out of desperation I headed to Fedex/Kinkos and ran some HT though a Docucolor 12 (I only mention that as I saw here that OIL was recommended or used? HT works fine on heavy mode). Other than color shift when copied and an additional color shift when pressed, it worked pretty well. (my seafoam green is a bright mint yikes!)

ANYWAY today I tried a quick test with the OLD GENERIC cartridges, washed 3, maybe 4 times, with minimal fading. ARGH! Luckily the shirts are for an ongoing event through the summer so I figured I'd have a little leeway. I have yet another color shift with the generics even though they are calibrated the same as the OEM's.

I'm sure with a little more testing I can dial in the temp and pressure again.

So if anyone is using OEM toners with a 4500/4550/4600 I'd love to hear from you.

Diane


----------



## GeordieLad

Hi Guys

little confused now. Just bought a OKI 5900 and I was wondering how t set it up for use with Duracotton HT:

Do you:

- set toner save on?
- set somethig to minus 30 for CMYK (gosh, I don't even know what that means.
- use the best settings (photo glossy), use plain paper?

I do not expect people to do all the hard work for me, I expect to do some of the hard yards myself and I will feed back into this thread as I have results. I do very much appreciate any feedback?

cheers
Craig R.

BrisVegas, Australia


----------



## edwin 98

diane143 said:


> So if anyone is using OEM toners with a 4500/4550/4600 I'd love to hear from you.
> 
> Diane


Diane: We have used a HP 3550 and HP 2600 with OEM Toner. We had very little washout. I guess that after making the 4550 HP changed their toner. 

Big Ed


----------



## Jtreaddesigns

now I'm slightly confused, Is this paper supposed to replace regular transfer paper that is printed on an Inkjet so when printed the rest of the paper isn't transfered, just what is printed on...so those white 8.5x11 white box lines won't show ?? 

THanks


----------



## edwin 98

Jtreaddesigns said:


> now I'm slightly confused, Is this paper supposed to replace regular transfer paper that is printed on an Inkjet so when printed the rest of the paper isn't transfered, just what is printed on...so those white 8.5x11 white box lines won't show ??
> 
> THanks


DuraCotton HT is a one step transfer paper for Color Laser Printers and Color Laser Copiers that do not use fuser oil. It works with different CLP’s and CLC’s.

There is a different paper for a TWO step ink jet sublimation process. The DuraCotton SUB infuses a polyester core into 100% cotton or 50/50 polycotton,. The first step is to press DuraCotton Sub on the Cotton item and then treat the item as polyester

See our web site for exact instructions.

Big Ed


----------



## northcutt

First time post. 
This paper, although with some issues that seem to be resolvable, sounds like the cat's meow. Is this the first of it's kind or are there others out there with similiar "no trim and no hand" features? 

.....Can not wait to try it for myself! I am using a Ricoh SP C811DN.

I have been having "cracking",hand and durability issues using Techniprint paper. I have tried adjusting the three variables: pressure, time and heat. I also changed to fast draft mode b/c my printer only allows 600dpi using colors. This helped very little.

Definitely thankful for the info recieved from this forum. Thanks to everyone.

Ron


----------



## GeordieLad

Guys - Duracotton HT - can I print straight onto 100% cotton or do I need to use Duracotton Sub? My supplier (I could get another one I suppose, but this one is close by) only supplies 100% cotton tees.

cheers
Craig R.
Brisbane, Australia


----------



## DuraCotton98

GeordieLad said:


> Guys - Duracotton HT - can I print straight onto 100% cotton or do I need to use Duracotton Sub? My supplier (I could get another one I suppose, but this one is close by) only supplies 100% cotton tees.
> 
> cheers
> Craig R.
> Brisbane, Australia


Hi Craig:

Using a color laser printer (the best are the Okis to work with DuraCotton HT) or color laser printer, you can press the output directly onto 100% cotton.

have a great one!


----------



## GeordieLad

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Craig:
> 
> Using a color laser printer (the best are the Okis to work with DuraCotton HT) or color laser printer, you can press the output directly onto 100% cotton.
> 
> have a great one!


Fantastic, thanks for that Ken. I just had a OKI 5900 delivered (latest model apparently) and will get a chance to tery it out on Friday.

I'll need to run back through the posts to see what the best settings are - oh - and your website of course. I am REALLY looking forward to using this paper.

cheers

Craig R.
Brisbane, Australia


----------



## DuraCotton98

GeordieLad said:


> Fantastic, thanks for that Ken. I just had a OKI 5900 delivered (latest model apparently) and will get a chance to tery it out on Friday.
> 
> I'll need to run back through the posts to see what the best settings are - oh - and your website of course. I am REALLY looking forward to using this paper.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Craig R.
> Brisbane, Australia


Hi Craig:

Below are the settings which I use - you will need to adjust to your heat press:
14 - 15 seconds
205 - 208 C degrees
3/4's pressure on a manual.
HOT PEEL
overlay with Teflon (c) and press 4 seconds
HOT PEEL QUICKLY

With regard to pressure, try taking the pressure up and down. If you have an automatic heat press, you need to significantly reduce the pressure. 

If you have 'east - west' hand and it crackles when you crumble, then it is too heavy. 

If you do a wash test and the image washes out somewhat, then your pressure is too soft.

As for the Oki printer:
using the settings on the printer itself, reduce the Toner Density to the minimum setting (minus 30).
warm up the printer with 3 - 5 plain paper prints.
Depending on your printer, use GLOSSY, TRANSPARENCY or HEAVY paper setting. Your printer will work best in one of these three settings.

Print from the MPT (manual paper tray) and print straight out back. 

Good Luck!

We are here to help, if required.

have a great one!


----------



## GeordieLad

Hi Guys

I'm in a bit of a bind. Bought a new OKI printer to do some "no hand" printed t-shirts using Duracotton HT, but cannot figure out how to get the printer to print a reverse image.

It's an OKI C5900. (I promise you I have looked and I just cannot find it.)

Can anybody help?


P.S. Have an order due in 2hours, may have to back to "lots of hand" paper on the inkjet.

cheers

Craig Rippon
Brisbane, Australia


----------



## DuraCotton98

GeordieLad said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm in a bit of a bind. Bought a new OKI printer to do some "no hand" printed t-shirts using Duracotton HT, but cannot figure out how to get the printer to print a reverse image.
> 
> It's an OKI C5900. (I promise you I have looked and I just cannot find it.)
> 
> Can anybody help?
> 
> 
> P.S. Have an order due in 2hours, may have to back to "lots of hand" paper on the inkjet.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Craig Rippon
> Brisbane, Australia


Craig:

Flip the image in your software before printing. If Corel, go to preview in the print driver and hit the E (top of page).

Good Luck!

havea great one!


----------



## mizi117

i like heat transfer so much,so anyone know where can i get tutorial on how the process done.


----------



## vctradingcubao

Here are some "howto" videos from iccink/forever transfer products.

International Coatings


----------



## DuraCotton98

mizi117 said:


> i like heat transfer so much,so anyone know where can i get tutorial on how the process done.


Hi Mizi117:

The process of transferring DuraCotton HT papers has not yet been documented via video. A video will be forthcoming.

The process used with DuraCotton paper is different than with other papers. Follow the instructions of a competitor's paper using DuraCotton - the result will not be saleable.

Our process works only with DuraCotton papers. The result - ZERO Cutting (required), ZERO Hand, 'Sublimation-Like' color vibrancy, extended wash durability, ZERO color bleeding, ...

havea great one!


----------



## Thundertoes

Hi,

I have purchased a packet of DuraCotton paper, I have an Oki 5500 arriving on Monday and I'm so excited to try it out!  My one little concern is that I have a brand new Hix Swingman press...and it's top temperature is 400 degrees f - is this going to be enough?

Thanks,
Jacky


----------



## mzmadmax

Jacky, 

Which Hix Swingman press did you order? Both the Swingman 15 and the 20D have top temps of 450 degrees, so with either of these, you will be okay.

You can check here for more info:

HIX Manual Heat Transfer Machines


----------



## Thundertoes

I got the 15 x 15, but the top number on the dial is definitely 400! Does that mean I should go just past that to achieve the 405 degrees suggested?

Jacky


----------



## mzmadmax

Hmmmm. That might not be a good idea. Now I'm wondering if maybe there are two different models of the Hix Swingman 15?


----------



## fat_miao

Just gotcha package Ken, tried them both well still need to find the right temp on those china made machine. Some white shirt do gets yellowish much quicker than another. 

I'm now down to 195 C 15 Sec , another 45 Sec for the subs... (might leave them cold first) guessing the over heat... well, since i got a few models to try on, might as well try them all.

My old HP CLJ 2500 works well at plain paper for the HT - not even needing to pass a few papers first. 

The working ones are wonderful, you might feel some hand right after peeling, but as the hours goes by it gets softer.


----------



## honzo

hey, just printing my 1st duracotton ht print.. then pressing..fingers x'd!!


----------



## honzo

print turned out perfect...only just got my press & oki3300 printer like a week ago..all is going well so far!!


----------



## JMD

Are there any tranfer papers out there like the HT (that you do not have to trim) made for inkjets?


----------



## oldscot

JMD said:


> Are there any tranfer papers out there like the HT (that you do not have to trim) made for inkjets?


You should look at a thread called "craftrobo" This is a small cutter/plotter with an optical eye. You make up the image you want to transfer using your drawing program and the provided software adds registration marks to the image and it is then printed using your inkjet or laser printer depending on the paper being used. When the printed transfer is fed through the craftrobo, it automatically trims around and inside the transfer and after weeding, it is ready to transfer to light or dark shirts. (also mugs and other non textile items) There are about three companies making inkjet papers usable with the craftrobo. It will also cut out vinyl lettering and can be used to make signs.
I have not personally used this little cutter/plotter so have no idea how bright or durable the transfers would be. Also one user stated that the largest transfer that can be made is 8 x 10. Some suppliers are selling this cutter/plotter for $399.00 and one supplier has them for $299.00. More information on these can be found at CraftROBO:GRAPHTEC


----------



## vlcnmstr

oldscot said:


> You should look at a thread called "craftrobo" This is a small cutter/plotter with an optical eye. You make up the image you want to transfer using your drawing program and the provided software adds registration marks to the image and it is then printed using your inkjet or laser printer depending on the paper being used. When the printed transfer is fed through the craftrobo, it automatically trims around and inside the transfer and after weeding, it is ready to transfer to light or dark shirts. (also mugs and other non textile items) There are about three companies making inkjet papers usable with the craftrobo. It will also cut out vinyl lettering and can be used to make signs.
> I have not personally used this little cutter/plotter so have no idea how bright or durable the transfers would be. Also one user stated that the largest transfer that can be made is 8 x 10. Some suppliers are selling this cutter/plotter for $399.00 and one supplier has them for $299.00. More information on these can be found at CraftROBO:GRAPHTEC


yes, the craft robo is limite to 8 x 10 (as well as minus margins).
If you want better then look at the "Craft Robo Pro II" which is bigger. Mid way between the hobby and commerial amchines, it has wider media handling (15 inch rolls or sheet fed) as well as thicker range -- heavier pressure with the blade. Also four times faster. It is more expensive, but depending on what your needs are might be the better choice.
djl


----------



## GeordieLad

GeordieLad said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm in a bit of a bind. Bought a new OKI printer to do some "no hand" printed t-shirts using Duracotton HT, but cannot figure out how to get the printer to print a reverse image.
> 
> It's an OKI C5900. (I promise you I have looked and I just cannot find it.)
> 
> Can anybody help?
> 
> 
> P.S. Have an order due in 2hours, may have to back to "lots of hand" paper on the inkjet.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Craig Rippon
> Brisbane, Australia


Woohoo

the trick is to install the PostScript printer driver as opposed to the PCL driver. The PS driver has an option to mirror the image.

cheers
Craig R.
Brisbane, Australia


----------



## vlcnmstr

GeordieLad said:


> Woohoo
> 
> the trick is to install the PostScript printer driver as opposed to the PCL driver. The PS driver has an option to mirror the image.
> 
> cheers
> Craig R.
> Brisbane, Australia


usually the software will do it. 
What software did you use to create it? Normally in the "edit" menu there is an option for flip, or reverse or mirror or one of the wonderul words programer use for mirror. do it there, then print. Some of the print drivers do it to. You don't need postscript necessarily.
hth
djl


----------



## fat_miao

DuraCotton is good for laser, but i dont really it work nice with Subs. At least wont have to worry about burning a shirt for the laser. Well, it cost really more for subs too. Color Laser are getting cheaper, but still hopefully DuraCotton works on the new ones.


----------



## Lnfortun

JMD said:


> Are there any tranfer papers out there like the HT (that you do not have to trim) made for inkjets?


 
There is a company in UK that sells a new self weeding transfer paper for inkjet printers. It is called kisscut 
KISSGOODBYETOCUTTING. I got the link from another thread http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t19197.html?highlight=imageclip that was posted by cprvh.

I think this would be a revolutionary product if it rely works as claimed by the manufacturer. Right now in my opinion would be very expensive due to shipping costs, currency exchange rate and not to mention time lag because of logistics.

Hopefully a distributor in US will pick it up.

Read more about it in their website.

Luis


----------



## oldscot

lnfortun said:


> There is a company in UK that sells a new self weeding transfer paper for inkjet printers. It is called kisscut
> KISSGOODBYETOCUTTING. I got the link from another thread http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t19197.html?highlight=imageclip that was posted by cprvh.
> 
> I think this would be a revolutionary product if it rely works as claimed by the manufacturer. Right now in my opinion would be very expensive due to shipping costs, currency exchange rate and not to mention time lag because of logistics.
> 
> Hopefully a distributor in US will pick it up.
> 
> Read more about it in their website.
> 
> Luis


I e-mailed their UK distributor and they anticipate having a US distributor within two weeks. As soon as I find out who the US distributor is, I will let every one know. There is a contact e-mail address on their website and if you contact them they will put you on their contact list .


----------



## shpedly

Anybody know what kind of heat press that was used in the KissKut videos?


----------



## diane143

How long does new paper need to acclimate to your environment? I got a batch yesterday which 99.9% consistently jams, while what I got previously is still working fine.


----------



## GeordieLad

Guys
having a serious go at Duracotton HT tonight (it's 1:20AM) at the moment.

Jammed in OKI C5900 on Labels, appears to print perfectly on HEAVY.

Pressed at 206deg 'C' for 14 seconds (no teflon), hot peeled (very slightly difficult to peel), pressed again with Teflon sheet for 4 seconds.

Here are the results:











The Yellow and Orange circles are showing the amount of material remaining on the backing material.

The blue circle over the Aikido pictogram indicates some missing colour. The blue circle in th eplain white area indicates discolouration of the t-shirt (from white to yellow'ish). The discolouration is obviously NOT due to Duracotton because the materials was not there, I show it in case it indicates too hot/cold press or something. BTW: there is medium hand wherever the Duracotton was. The printed T's have not been washed yet.

Show would appreciate your analysis of the results and any suggestions as to pressure and heat would be VERY gratefully received. Pressure is hard to judge on my press, it's a twist the large bolt type but to my mind is relatively heavy pressure.

anyways, whilst I'm desperate for your responses, it is very late and is my daughter's birthday tomorrow .... ummm...errrrr..... today.

cheers
Craig R.
Brisbane, Australia


----------



## vlcnmstr

one thing I have noticed is that I give a little "tug" on the shirt right after printing and the hand goes away. Just sort of a 'snap' or bit of a quick stretch like you would if you were smoothing a wrinkled t shirt. 
as to the residue, seems like more heat would work? I get a very light shadow on the paper, often not enough to even see the whole desig any longer.
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

GeordieLad said:


> Guys
> having a serious go at Duracotton HT tonight (it's 1:20AM) at the moment.
> 
> Jammed in OKI C5900 on Labels, appears to print perfectly on HEAVY.
> 
> Pressed at 206deg 'C' for 14 seconds (no teflon), hot peeled (very slightly difficult to peel), pressed again with Teflon sheet for 4 seconds.
> 
> Here are the results:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Yellow and Orange circles are showing the amount of material remaining on the backing material.
> 
> The blue circle over the Aikido pictogram indicates some missing colour. The blue circle in th eplain white area indicates discolouration of the t-shirt (from white to yellow'ish). The discolouration is obviously NOT due to Duracotton because the materials was not there, I show it in case it indicates too hot/cold press or something. BTW: there is medium hand wherever the Duracotton was. The printed T's have not been washed yet.
> 
> Show would appreciate your analysis of the results and any suggestions as to pressure and heat would be VERY gratefully received. Pressure is hard to judge on my press, it's a twist the large bolt type but to my mind is relatively heavy pressure.
> 
> anyways, whilst I'm desperate for your responses, it is very late and is my daughter's birthday tomorrow .... ummm...errrrr..... today.
> 
> cheers
> Craig R.
> Brisbane, Australia


Hi Craig:

The toner remaining on the DuraCotton carrier paper is about right. 

I think your pressure is too heavy and this is where the hand is coming from. You need to cut back on the pressure.

Since the shirt is slightly yellowing, that suggests your press is a bit too hot. At the same time, you are suggesting a wee bit of a struggle to take the paper off. This suggests your press is dropping in temperature significantly while the press is down. This is a common problem with many heat presses ( a cold spot on the upper platinum creates very similar issues).

As such, we are suggesting two adjustments:

1. reduce and then test to achieve ZERO Hand - it may take 5 - 10 presses to get it right. Vlcnmstr's suggestion of a little tug also works - this way you can continue on in production and adjust the pressure settings until ZERO Hand is attained.

Of course, the Teflon pressing is critical to achieving ZERO Hand.

2. Up the temp another 5 F / 3 C degrees and reduce the time. The objective here is to achieve ZERO scorching (yellowing) of the shirt and easy peeling of the paper. It is important to HOT PEEL Quickly.

These adjustments when refined will result in ZERO Hand, ZERO Scorching and easy peeling - 'just like butter'.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


​
​


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> How long does new paper need to acclimate to your environment? I got a batch yesterday which 99.9% consistently jams, while what I got previously is still working fine.


Hi Diane:

My guess is that you received a batch of DuraCotton OIL or DuraCotton SUB paper rather than the DuraCotton HT which you require. Please discuss with your DuraCotton distributor or contact me and we will replace.

I have not experienced any delay associated with printing newly arrived DuraCotton HT paper.

have a great one!


----------



## diane143

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Diane:
> 
> My guess is that you received a batch of DuraCotton OIL or DuraCotton SUB paper rather than the DuraCotton HT which you require. Please discuss with your DuraCotton distributor or contact me and we will replace.
> 
> I have not experienced any delay associated with printing newly arrived DuraCotton HT paper.
> 
> have a great one!


I was guessing that as I know that's how OIL acts in this printer! I was able to print a couple out and they pressed fine (will they hold up to washing if it's SUB?)

My distributor has already taken care of me, I will find out tomorrow if all is well. <fingers crossed>

Thanks again!


----------



## DuraCotton98

diane143 said:


> I was guessing that as I know that's how OIL acts in this printer! I was able to print a couple out and they pressed fine (will they hold up to washing if it's SUB?)
> 
> My distributor has already taken care of me, I will find out tomorrow if all is well. <fingers crossed>
> 
> Thanks again!


Hi Diane:

There should be no fall off in wash durability.

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi:

Here is the link to information about the forthcoming wide format Oki c8800 color printer. DuraCotton HT has been extensively tested on this printer.

http://www.okidata.com/mkt/downloads/c8800.pdf

have a great one!


----------



## edwin 98

Hi All:
OKI has finally released the Large Format LED Laser Printer. The C8800n will work with paper sizes 11 X 17, 8 _ 14, 8 _ X 11 and European sizes A3 and A4. Ken at AutoArt Color Solutions has already tested this printer and successfully printed over 300 sheets of DuraCotton HT Transfer Paper flawlessly. The results were stunningly fabulous. The Color was vibrant and alive and the accuracy of detail was truly remarkable. Our initial testing shows the C8800n to be better in many ways than any other OKI Printer we have seen thus far. The C8800n with 1,000 sheets of DuraCotton HT are available at all the resellers of DuraCotton on Ken's webs site AutoART DuraCotton heat transfer papers - transfer cotton, sublimate cotton.

Big Ed


----------



## mrstitch

I just discovered something that many may already know, but was a pleasant surprise for me.

I pressed a series of white dress shirts with Duracotton HT and then pressed with a Teflon sheet to soften the imprint.
Unfortunately, on one shirt, I failed to clean the residue from the Teflon and printed an extra, light, but visible image on one of these $40.00 Calvin Klein shirts. 

My dry cleaner was able to completely remove the erroneous print with a pressure spray and solution and informed that dry cleaning will wash out a heat transfer. This was news to me, and now I'll make sure my customers either machine or hand wash their garments. So, if anyone screws up an expensive shirt, try your local dry cleaners!

Dean Zellman
Mr. Stitch Embroidery
13714 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, CA 91423


----------



## mr_disaster

Hi! Excuse me if the question Im going to make was posted or explained before, but the forum is now kinda huge and is a lot of reading to do.

Im new into transfering and I was making some test with ink jet transfers but in many cases I got bleeding after wash, taking NOT so good care of the garment 'cause I know not everyone is going to take full care and then theyre going to blame on me for a bad quality impression, so I decided to move into laser transfer, does any one tried this transfer paper with an HP Color Laserjet 2600n? Does anyone know which kind of fuser this printer uses or anyone know which kind of transfer paper may I use with?

I'll REALLY appreciate any help.


----------



## DuraCotton98

mr_disaster said:


> Hi! Excuse me if the question Im going to make was posted or explained before, but the forum is now kinda huge and is a lot of reading to do.
> 
> Im new into transfering and I was making some test with ink jet transfers but in many cases I got bleeding after wash, taking NOT so good care of the garment 'cause I know not everyone is going to take full care and then theyre going to blame on me for a bad quality impression, so I decided to move into laser transfer, does any one tried this transfer paper with an HP Color Laserjet 2600n? Does anyone know which kind of fuser this printer uses or anyone know which kind of transfer paper may I use with?
> 
> I'll REALLY appreciate any help.


Welcome Mr_Disaster:

DuraCotton HT works with the HP 2600n just fine.

have a great one!


----------



## mr_disaster

Hi Ken, thanks for your fast response.

For what I've read the Duracotton HT is intended to be used in textiles only, what about mugs? Any special paper, or that one will work just fine?

Thanks again in advance.


----------



## DuraCotton98

mr_disaster said:


> Hi Ken, thanks for your fast response.
> 
> For what I've read the Duracotton HT is intended to be used in textiles only, what about mugs? Any special paper, or that one will work just fine?
> 
> Thanks again in advance.


Hi Mr_Disaster:

There are several users doing mugs, metal, plastic, wood, ... using DuraCotton HT.

I am sure one or more of these users will explain how. Personally, I have yet to try mugs.

have a great one!


----------



## grumpster

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Mr_Disaster:
> 
> There are several users doing mugs, metal, plastic, wood, ... using DuraCotton HT.
> 
> I am sure one or more of these users will explain how. Personally, I have yet to try mugs.
> 
> have a great one!


While DuraCotton can be used with mugs, they are not dishwasher safe and must be hand washed. If you want to do dishwasher safe mugs, you have to use hard coated mugs and dye sub toner. This will produce a photo quality dishwasher safe image that will not wash off. 

I use an OEM toner Oki printer for DuraCotton HT prints to cotton and 50\50 textiles. I use an Oki with DyeSub toner and high release paper for 100% polyester textiles, hard coated ceramics, coated stainless steel mugs etc. For uncoated surfaces like mirrors, wood etc, you must use Duracotton. 

I've had nothing but problems with inkjet dye sub printers clogging. I was literally using more of that VERY EXPENSIVE ink just to clean the clogged jets than I was using to make products. I'll never return to Inkjet for this reason. My Oki prints first time, every time! 

If you do print DyeSub to ceramics, it'll leave a residue on the surface. That can easily be removed by using a product like d-Haze Gel or Ickee Stickee from franmar.com to clean off the haze.

In a nutshell, Duracotton with OEM toners for cotton and 50\50 textiles and uncoated surfaces. DyeSub toners with high release paper for 100% polyester textiles and coated hard goods (mugs etc). 

No one solution will work for everything, but each will work very well in it's own area. Duracotton is by far the best product I've found for cotton and 50\50 textiles.


----------



## vlcnmstr

I have somewhere around my workroom paper that I have used with mugs and my laser. It is a high release paper and the only draw back is that it requires coated mugs for permanence which limits the variety.

THe source I use (if I find it I will post it) sold the laser mugs as well as the dye sub mugs (the dye sub being cheaper) but clued me into the fact that the one brand of dy sub mug actually worked better for laser than for subbing. AND they were the cheaper mugs...
THe other thing that I got was a "curing" station which is afancy name for what looks like just a high heat halogen bulb over which you place the printed mug and heat it from inside out to really set the transfer. There is a final 'decal like' texture, but I sorta like it as the colors are as bright as sub with far more lightfastness.
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

grumpster said:


> While DuraCotton can be used with mugs, they are not dishwasher safe and must be hand washed. If you want to do dishwasher safe mugs, you have to use hard coated mugs and dye sub toner. This will produce a photo quality dishwasher safe image that will not wash off.
> 
> I use an OEM toner Oki printer for DuraCotton HT prints to cotton and 50\50 textiles. I use an Oki with DyeSub toner and high release paper for 100% polyester textiles, hard coated ceramics, coated stainless steel mugs etc. For uncoated surfaces like mirrors, wood etc, you must use Duracotton.
> 
> I've had nothing but problems with inkjet dye sub printers clogging. I was literally using more of that VERY EXPENSIVE ink just to clean the clogged jets than I was using to make products. I'll never return to Inkjet for this reason. My Oki prints first time, every time!
> 
> If you do print DyeSub to ceramics, it'll leave a residue on the surface. That can easily be removed by using a product like d-Haze Gel or Ickee Stickee from franmar.com to clean off the haze.
> 
> In a nutshell, Duracotton with OEM toners for cotton and 50\50 textiles and uncoated surfaces. DyeSub toners with high release paper for 100% polyester textiles and coated hard goods (mugs etc).
> 
> No one solution will work for everything, but each will work very well in it's own area. Duracotton is by far the best product I've found for cotton and 50\50 textiles.


Hi DJ:

Thank you for the fine comments about DuraCotton heat transfer papers!

Like you, I thought our paper on mugs etc would be like any other transfer paper on mugs, tiles, metals etc.

I have since learned otherwise. My first insight came in the spring from a fellow doing license plates in large numbers. He had developed his techniques using another paper but when he tested DuraCotton HT - that was it! He described the paper as the best ever - color + scratch resistant!

Since then I have learned via our channels that some DuraCotton HT users are doing mugs, tiles, ... The comments back include microwave safe, scratch resistant with fantastic color.

I have heard that both coated and uncoated mugs, tiles, ... + engraver's metals work (much less expensive that sub metals - engraver's metals are coated with a much thinner polyester).

As I mentioned yesterday, the users have spent time developing their process - I feel it is not my position to ask how. What I do know is that many are baking the end product in an oven to achieve the remarkable results.

And like Vlcnmstr's comments, I have heard that some mugs are being 'cooked' using the high heat bulb 'curing station'.

have a great one!


----------



## mr_disaster

Hi, as I said at the beginning Im a newbie with this. I ordered DuraCotton since my last post, but, as Im located in Venezuela the paper hasnt arrived yet, but is about to.

For those who used it with mugs... how you did it? I mean, how much time, how much temperature, etc, etc, etc.

Im going to try it with laser mugs and my press is a GeoKnight DK3.

Thanks in advance.-


----------



## deniseg

HI i have just come back from hols so back to printing,well its winter here (GB) and we r looking to do sweatshirts however they will be in darker col, I know the Durocotton ht is for lt col but is there a t/p thats good to use on dark col's as the 1 i was using cracks and feels like plastic =(


----------



## charles95405

Denise....have you looked at iron all? check out the threads on here. It is new and is getting some good feedback


----------



## deniseg

thnx will do =) thnx for fast responce


----------



## charles95405

denise...the iron all is NOT for laser...that is inkjet...and the image is not what you experience with the samples you received.


----------



## deniseg

ok got some t/p from Coastal today (not tried it yet as printer needs to be attached to my printer hubby's one has gone puff)I ordered Laseropaque (laser one opaque) however we have hit a small problem and that's the cost its taken me to get it here =( handling charges u except and freight was very costly $69.93 +$2.75 but added to that I was also charged $45 duty to enter the UK (which i am going to challenge) total was $117.68 
So Please if there is anyone living in the UK or Europe can you let me know of someone that sells this. I have contacted Coastal to explain that I won't be ordering it again and that it wasn't because of their product =)
Thnx 
Denise


----------



## deniseg

quick update Coastle has replied to my e-mail about postage and it appears they have an agent in England =) so to all you people in England u can get the t/p for dk at Spaark Europe e-mail address is [email protected] hope this helps =) or phone 1628 890752


----------



## orchids

Hi, I would like to try Duracotton HT but I have a little problem. I am not able to find any distributor in middle Europe - in Slovakia or Czech. Could you give me any advice where to buy it? Thanks a lot.


----------



## deniseg

www.periscopepromotions.com are the 1's that send to us in europe atm as they don't have s seller here yet,also they do the A4 and not the letter size that come from usa =) hope this helps


----------



## orchids

Thanks a lot for reply... I hoped I find anybody in Europe who can sell it to me... I will try  .... thanks


----------



## charles95405

Greece, Spain and Norway have Duracotton distributors. A complete listing of the distributors can be found at autoart.ca


----------



## T-BOT

I wonder if a major warehouse/distributing and manufacturing facility to supply the entire EC relating to IMprintables already exists?  ...or in the works.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Lucy:

Yes, something is in the works for distribution of DuraCotton heat transfer papers in the Euro marketplace. 

have a great one!


----------



## Law Dog

I am having trouble with the extra toner being left on the shirt. Is possible to transfer your design without leaving the toner box (besides cutting)? Also, I know that there are different types of colors (RGB, Pantone, CMYK etc.) But in order to get the transfer to print bright and especially to get the ink to stay on the shirt after washing, does it matter what color system th edesign is created in? Thanks!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Mark:

I do not understand your statement: "I am having trouble with the extra toner being left on the shirt." Please explain further.

The best color paletteto use is RGB - most vibrant, including fire engine reds.

have a great one!


----------



## Law Dog

Ken,

I am refering to the box around a design. 

Mark


----------



## DuraCotton98

Law Dog said:


> Ken,
> 
> I am refering to the box around a design.
> 
> Mark


Hi Mark:

Suppressing the polymer box outside a design requires you to:

1. heat press at 405 F degrees for 14+ seconds with DuraCotton HT
2. HOT peel
3. Overlay with a Teflon (c) sheet, press for 4 -5 seconds and HOT, HOT Peel.

If you are using DuraCottonGOOF, then:
1. heat press at 380 F degrees for 12 seconds
2. warm - hot peel
3. Overlay with a Teflon (c) sheet, press for 4 seconds, and HOT, HOT Peel.

Good Luck

You can find more detailed instructions on the autoART websites at:

DuraCotton HT - 
DuraCotton HT Transfer papers 

and DuraCottonGOOF - 
DuraCottonGOOF - AutoART's latest heat transfer paper

have a great one!


----------



## TonyI

Wow. I have been reading this thread for hours. Some GREAT info.

Anyway, does anyone have any recent experience with the HP2600 Laserjet line and DCHT paper? I've read here that, due to voltage fluctuations, HP printers don't give consistent results. Does this mean that if you have regulated voltage (i.e. UPS), that it might be ok?

I also have a question about large (floor model) Panasonic or Kyocera color copier / printers. Forgive me, but I don’t have the model numbers right now. Does anyone have any experience using DCHT paper in these types of machines?


----------



## charles95405

Th UPS is not a cure for the voltage fluction..the UPS is Uninterrupted Power Supply...which will all the electornics to run for a period specified on the unit. With the 2600 series it is just hit and miss..you might contact the distributor near you for a sample to test..find them at AutoART DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers - Transfer Cotton Sublimate Cotton

To accurately answer on other CLPs and CLCs you need the model number to determine if they are oil based or non oil based fusers


----------



## TonyI

charles95405 said:


> Th UPS is not a cure for the voltage fluction..the UPS is Uninterrupted Power Supply...which will all the electornics to run for a period specified on the unit. With the 2600 series it is just hit and miss..you might contact the distributor near you for a sample to test..find them at AutoART DuraCotton Heat Transfer Papers - Transfer Cotton Sublimate Cotton
> 
> To accurately answer on other CLPs and CLCs you need the model number to determine if they are oil based or non oil based fusers


Charles,

Thanks for the quick reply. I agree about testing a unit first. Hopefully someone will allow me to do this. I am hoping to test some models at Staples, etc. As with many other people, I have decided to go from inkjet to laser for the increased durability of the printer, as well as the product.

I am in the process of getting the model numbers of the "floor" units that I have accessible to me. Yesterday, I requested a sample pack of DCHT paper to test these units. I hope to post the results within a few weeks for everyone.

My "real" job is a computer systems administrator. There are many inexpensive UPS systems that include voltage regulation. Since the HP2600 only uses 190W when printing, even the smaller UPSs with VR are acceptable. For an example, see: CDW Product Overview: Cyberpower 1200VA/720W UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulator. Maybe this is a solution for those attempting to use some of the less expensive lasers. Hope this helps!


----------



## TonyI

Attached is my list of available printer/copiers. Has anyone had any experience with any of these? Of course, I am more concerned with the color machines.

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## grumpster

You attachment is too small to be legible, but the Oki's have worked well for just about everyone. I've got 3 C5200 printers that have worked beautifully for me. Read through this thread and the _*New CLC DuraCottonHT Report*_ thread. There is a considerable amount of discussion of the printers that work well and the ones that don't.


----------



## TonyI

Grumpster,

Thanks for the info!

I apologize for the unreadable text. The forum forced the graphic to be a bit too small. Here is the OCR text. There may be some typos due to the OCR.

Panafax UF-890
DSM 755 SP
GDSM651
PANASONIC UF885 FAX MACHINE
Gestelner 651 
Panafax UF-595
Panafax UF-790
Panafax UF-790
PANASONIC UF895 FAX MACHINE
Panasonic 0 ital MFP DP-6020G
PANASONIC UF7000 LASER FAX MACHINE
Panafax UF-595
Panafax UF-595
FP-Dl511FXD ital rw/Fax&Prinl
FP-7718
Panasonic DP-6020H 0 ital Newort r'
PANASONIC UF770 LASER FAX
PANASONIC UF885 FAX MACHINE​Panasonic DP-4530H MFP with hard drive


----------



## TonyI

Everyone,

Hope you all enjoyed the holidays.

Ok. I have one available "floor model" possibility. Does anyone have any experience with the KYOCERA KM-C2230 and DCHT paper?

I just received my sample DCHT paper, but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips before trying them out in this machine.

Thanks again in advance.


----------



## DuraCotton98

One DuraCotton HT user emailed in this suggestion:

"I've been using your your DuracottonHT paper for all
of my t-shirt transfers now and they are great! When I
first started using it on my Oki5500 it jammed in the
roller frequently. It was very frustrating. I tried
the tips on your website regarding paper thickness,
and running through blank paper before printing but it
wasn't a guarantee that the transfer paper would go
through smoothly. I finally figured out the problem
was that DuracottonHT has the tendency to curl
slightly on the ends. So now I bend the transfer paper
to flatten it before feeding the paper through. Now it
never jams!"

A great idea worthy of action!

have a great one!


----------



## deniseg

DuraCotton98 said:


> One DuraCotton HT user emailed in this suggestion:
> 
> "I've been using your your DuracottonHT paper for all
> of my t-shirt transfers now and they are great! When I
> first started using it on my Oki5500 it jammed in the
> roller frequently. It was very frustrating. I tried
> the tips on your website regarding paper thickness,
> and running through blank paper before printing but it
> wasn't a guarantee that the transfer paper would go
> through smoothly. I finally figured out the problem
> was that DuracottonHT has the tendency to curl
> slightly on the ends. So now I bend the transfer paper
> to flatten it before feeding the paper through. Now it
> never jams!"
> 
> A great idea worthy of action!
> 
> have a great one!


 
I can second that also i never put threw more then 6 paper's at a time as i find the fusser gets to hot and jam's but 6 wait 4/5 secs put through another 6 and so on not failed me yet  hehe did try and get to 10 but it was hit and miss


----------



## DuraCotton98

deniseg said:


> I can second that also i never put threw more then 6 paper's at a time as i find the fusser gets to hot and jam's but 6 wait 4/5 secs put through another 6 and so on not failed me yet  hehe did try and get to 10 but it was hit and miss


Hi Denise:

You might try reducing the paper thickness in the printer paper setting. If you are HEAVY now, try MEDIUM for larger run quantities. Obviously for short runs, you have the correct setting.

have a great one!


----------



## deniseg

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Denise:
> 
> You might try reducing the paper thickness in the printer paper setting. If you are HEAVY now, try MEDIUM for larger run quantities. Obviously for short runs, you have the correct setting.
> 
> have a great one!


 
thnx will try that btw what do u call a long run? u think i will be able to do more then 6 if i put to medium? thnx for help


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Denise:

On Medium, you may start off too cold (toner not fused to DuraCotton HT correctly) but once warm, you should be running 25s, 50s. For longer runs, you may have to cut back one more setting if, and only if, you begin to jam.

Good Luck

have a great one!


----------



## taikuodo

where do you buy duracotton HT? what are the prices? I am looking at around the price for 100 sheets. Thanks


----------



## Lnfortun

taikuodo said:


> where do you buy duracotton HT? what are the prices? I am looking at around the price for 100 sheets. Thanks


You can get it from these three links: 
DuraCotton HT
Dye-Namic Images Home
AutoART DuraCotton Digital Heat Transfer Papers


----------



## charles95405

To find a Duracotton distributor, go to autoart.ca and see which distributor is closer to you. Autoart is the manufacturer of the paper. You can find the price list on any distributors site


----------



## taikuodo

and do shirts need special toners or can I use the ones that come with the printer?


----------



## Lnfortun

You do not need special toner. I use both OEM and compatible without a problem.

I use medium media weight. When I use anyting higher I always get a jam.


----------



## deniseg

I use the ones that come with the OKI printer  if you go to AutoArt they will give you a list of the printer's they have tested with the Duracotton paper.I sdon't think you can et diff Toners like you can for the inkjet, I may be wrong.


----------



## Lnfortun

Yes you can use different brand and type of toners depending on the appliction such as laser sublimation. There are available laser sublimation toners for certain models of Oki, Konica and HP etc. laser printers


----------



## onipse6

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



T-BOT said:


> hi guys, sorry about the cropped photo, here is another:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i purchase a New Laser Printer off the shelf yesterday at the Future Shop.
> 
> the sales guy there was extremely helpful.
> 
> i got a HP LajerJet 2600n ($360 CND), its kind of big for my little desk though. Its working fine but im scared to try this new paper....(heard stories that the paper may stick to the inside of the printer and that will be the end of the printer  )....
> 
> i will try to build up my nerve.
> 
> Any tips before i try it ?


Hi Lucy, use only laser heat transfer papers for your laser printer, don't ever use inkjet heat transfer papers, the heat in the printer will cause the paper to melt and destroy the drum of your laser printer.


----------



## taikuodo

I have a Brother HL-5040 monocolor laser printer.
Amazon.com: Brother HL-5040 Laser Printer: Electronics
Will duracotton HT work with this?
Its ok if i just print black.


----------



## deniseg

taikuodo said:


> I have a Brother HL-5040 monocolor laser printer.
> Amazon.com: Brother HL-5040 Laser Printer: Electronics
> Will duracotton HT work with this?
> Its ok if i just print black.


if it has a straight feed it should be ok but make sure u get the right paper as they make 1 for none oil (powder toners) and 1 for the oil type ink.(not sure what they look like as mine is none oil)By straight feed I mean it goes in the front run's straight across and out the back at the top,as some don't and can wrap round the rollers, this is ok for paper but not good for transfer paper's.Hope this helps  If u don't know how it feeds the paper it should tell you in the "Properties" when u click to print.(hopefully)


----------



## DuraCotton98

taikuodo said:


> I have a Brother HL-5040 monocolor laser printer.
> Amazon.com: Brother HL-5040 Laser Printer: Electronics
> Will duracotton HT work with this?
> Its ok if i just print black.


DuraCotton HT does NOT work with monochrome laser printers - copiers. The fusing temp is much higher than that of color output devices, and the paper will melt.

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## tae_mo

hi guys im newbie.. i have question is the duracotton 98 works with Samsung ML-2510 Laser Printer


thank you..


----------



## charles95405

if your question is will the printer you linked to...the Samsung 2510....the answer is NO....Duracotton will not work with any black/white laser. It has to be color laser like the okidata series


----------



## T-BOT

*Re: NEW Digital Transfer Paper: DuraCotton*



onipse6 said:


> Hi Lucy, use only laser heat transfer papers for your laser printer, don't ever use inkjet heat transfer papers, the heat in the printer will cause the paper to melt and destroy the drum of your laser printer.


wow! this thread is still alive and kickin I see.

gee thanks for the tip. 

That was one of the things I asked the guy at the future shop store before I purchased the Laser printer just to test this THEN new LAZER paper.

He did not know anything about the different types of paper... LAZER paper and JET Paper.

But he was very helpful. 

I got rid of the HP printer I purchased, it was just too darn big. 

I like some big things but printers are not one of them. 


:


----------



## tae_mo

hi guys..i just bot a KM 2430DL, and i just wanna ask what is the best duracotton to use for this printer,thx..

and oh charles95405 thank you for the info.


----------



## DuraCotton98

tae_mo said:


> hi guys..i just bot a KM 2430DL, and i just wanna ask what is the best duracotton to use for this printer,thx..
> 
> 
> 
> and oh charles95405 thank you for the info.


 

Hey Aik:

 

The best paper for the KonicaMinolta 2430 is DuraCotton KM.  This paper is configured for the KM toner.

 

have a great one!


----------



## deniseg

has something gone wrong with my comp or r there a lot of >>> and P's in Ken's reply?


----------



## DuraCotton98

deniseg said:


> has something gone wrong with my comp or r there a lot of >>> and P's in Ken's reply?


Hi Deniseg:

No, it is NOT your computer. It happened when responding to the email. I am sure Rodney will fix - I was unable to fix after reviewing the post. Wonder if it will happen with this response.

have a great one!


----------



## deniseg

nope this one is OK Ken hehe


----------



## tae_mo

have'nt receive my order from duracotton paper from dy-namic i send them a msg no rply, and i call them they said there site got hack???


----------



## kandori7

hey guys, I have duracotton HT that I no longer use since I've switched to JPSS all the way. I have 200+ sheets of DCHT legal size (8.5x14). I'll sell it for less than market value..

let me know if anyone is interested.

email to: [email protected]


Ken


----------



## KEGRAFFIX88

Anyone know if Duracotton HT will work with a HP 2550L Color Inkjet Printer?


----------



## deniseg

KEGRAFFIX88 said:


> Anyone know if Duracotton HT will work with a HP 2550L Color Inkjet Printer?


Duracotton HT is for laser printers so no I don't think so it needs heat and inkjet don't work on that principle hope this helps


----------



## KEGRAFFIX88

deniseg said:


> Duracotton HT is for laser printers so no I don't think so it needs heat and inkjet don't work on that principle hope this helps


Opps sorry it is a laser printer not an inkjet.


----------



## deniseg

KEGRAFFIX88 said:


> Opps sorry it is a laser printer not an inkjet.


hehe well then it may if you look up their site AutoArt they have a list of printer's they have tried


----------



## DuraCotton98

KEGRAFFIX88 said:


> Opps sorry it is a laser printer not an inkjet.


 
Hi:

To my knowledge, we have no experience with the HP 2550. 

Sorry but ... you may wish to wait until we have a better read on the new AutoARTransfers Lights + Whites paper.

have a great one!


----------



## 100%pinoy

HI!

I'm new in this industry can someone help me....

I have a HP CP2025 laserjet printer and I have no idea if it is oil based ink toner. do this duracotton HT will work on my printer?

Can I use and ordinary household iron?

I visited the site and I cant find how to purchase this paper.

many thanks
paul


----------



## 100%pinoy

opssss...

I forgot to mention, I am outside the US or Canada, middle east in particular.

thanks again....
paul


----------



## DuraCotton98

100%pinoy said:


> HI!
> 
> I'm new in this industry can someone help me....
> 
> I have a HP CP2025 laserjet printer and I have no idea if it is oil based ink toner. do this duracotton HT will work on my printer?
> 
> Can I use and ordinary household iron?
> 
> I visited the site and I cant find how to purchase this paper.
> 
> many thanks
> paul


Hi Paul:

Welcome!

If your printer is less than 5 years old, it is NON-OIL. Just to be 100% sure, open up the manual and identify if you need to add oil occasionally.

Will DuraCotton HT work with your printer? To my knowledge, no. 

Where to purchase? www.autoartusa.com 

have a great one!


----------



## deniseg

100%pinoy said:


> opssss...
> 
> I forgot to mention, I am outside the US or Canada, middle east in particular.
> 
> thanks again....
> paul


The best thing is to log onto the AutoArt web site they have a lot of printer's there that have tested with their paper and see if yours is on the list if not send them an e-mail and ask,sorry not much I can add as I am not sure about that printer,they will also tell you how and where to order from, hope this helps a bit  and GL,I love their paper, also they are working on a new one for lights and whites that uses a lower heat 

oops lol Duracotton has just answered your question as I was writing so bad news about their paper with your printer  but I am sure you will find one that will


----------



## 100%pinoy

WOW! thanks for the quick reply.....

Ken.... please, any idea why my printer will not work?

log on to the site but cant find the normal check out button or add to cart, is it because I am using safari browser??

many thanks,
paul


----------



## charles95405

As Ken said...if your printer is over 5 years old it is probably oil based fuser...in which case you can use DuraCotton Oil not DuraCotton HT...same company..but different coating on the paper which allows you to print IF you in fact have an oil based fuser


----------



## kandori7

if anyone is interested, I have an OKI6000 that works great with DCHT. (I have 4 new toners not even opened). Also have 200+(300maybe) of DCHT 8.5x14 to sell as well.

If interested, email me at:

[email protected]


Kenneth Choi


----------



## charles95405

Kenneth...you might want to list your location and put in for sale section. The US distributor for DC HT has note on the web site that they are out of DC HT for at least 60 days.


----------



## vctradingcubao

Paul (100%pinoy) and KEGRAFFX88:
You can also check here for some laser printer compatibility: http://www.forever-ots.com/download.php?PHPSESSID=f5cd294aa611c31d11e77d926c042d62&d[nr]=35


----------



## charles95405

NOTE....This thread title is a little old and misleading as to the name of the paper. It was started almost 3 years ago. Since that time Duracotton has evolved a couple of times. For listing of new papers, go to AutoART: AutoARTransfers, DuraCotton Digital Heat Transfer Papers for listing of current papers. I am told there is a shortage of the paper at this time as they seem to be working on a new formulation..BTW..I am no longer handling the product so this is not a self promotion post!


----------



## diane143

vctradingcubao said:


> Paul (100%pinoy) and KEGRAFFX88:
> You can also check here for some laser printer compatibility: http://www.forever-ots.com/download.php?PHPSESSID=f5cd294aa611c31d11e77d926c042d62&d[nr]=35



That link didn't work for me


----------



## vctradingcubao

diane143 said:


> That link didn't work for me


Apologies for that,. Just go to the forever site, Forever Digital Transfer Applications Technology, choose the english language, and click on the "Printer Compliant List" on the lower right side of the main page. Hope it works now!


----------



## diane143

vctradingcubao said:


> Apologies for that,. Just go to the forever site, Forever Digital Transfer Applications Technology, choose the english language, and click on the "Printer Compliant List" on the lower right side of the main page. Hope it works now!



Great! Now it says it works with the HP 4550, has anyone tested the 4500 as well?


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## vctradingcubao

I think it should work. Try the Forever Universal, Nennah's Techniprint, and some other "non-oil-high-temp" laser transfers papers (but the Duracotton HT is a little tricky because it's supposed to be thinner, not really sure there). Good luck on your testing!


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## diane143

vctradingcubao said:


> I think it should work. Try the Forever Universal, Nennah's Techniprint, and some other "non-oil-high-temp" laser transfers papers (but the Duracotton HT is a little tricky because it's supposed to be thinner, not really sure there). Good luck on your testing!


Duracotton from 2 years ago really did not work, I have been using Imageclip but that's a tough paper to deal with as well.


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## Girlzndollz

diane143 said:


> Duracotton from 2 years ago really did not work, I have been using Imageclip but that's a tough paper to deal with as well.


 
Hi Diane,

I realize you are probably using Imageclip for Laser, since this is basically a laser thread, but am not sure if you've come across the Imageclip for Inkjet yet.

Luis/Lnfortun has used both papers, and he's talked about how Imageclip for Laser has a few issues and some limitations. He says that the new Imageclip for Inkjet solves those issues, while retaining the No Polymer transfer capabilities. 

Just wanted to mention this if it might be something you are interested in, since you just mentioned how Imageclip Laser can be tough to deal with. I wondered if you would enjoy these improvements that Luis mentions the Inkjet version provides. Okay, have a great night.


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## diane143

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Diane,
> 
> I realize you are probably using Imageclip for Laser, since this is basically a laser thread, but am not sure if you've come across the Imageclip for Inkjet yet.
> 
> Luis/Lnfortun has used both papers, and he's talked about how Imageclip for Laser has a few issues and some limitations. He says that the new Imageclip for Inkjet solves those issues, while retaining the No Polymer transfer capabilities.
> 
> Just wanted to mention this if it might be something you are interested in, since you just mentioned how Imageclip Laser can be tough to deal with. I wondered if you would enjoy these improvements that Luis mentions the Inkjet version provides. Okay, have a great night.



Is he using the inkjet version in a laser? or an inkjet? I'd be willing to try anything that works


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## MYDAMIT

i tried duracotton HT and Techniprint they are both my favorite laser paper. But with the new duracotton light + white i'm still having problem in printing with my oki5500 printer. If they can fix this then this is perfect laser paper for me.


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## Lnfortun

diane143 said:


> Is he using the inkjet version in a laser? or an inkjet? I'd be willing to try anything that works


I have been using Imageclip for laser since it first came out. It is true Imageclip for laser has limitations when comes to light color, gradient or photo images. The new Imageclip for inkjet solves those limitations. My preference is the laser version and if the image design will not work with it I use Imageclip for inkjet or Duracotton HT. However, when I use Duracotton HT I contour cut a premium printer paper and use it to cover the unprinted areas and mask off the polymer before I press both the transfer paper with the mask on the shirt. By masking I can use Duracotton on any pastel or dark shirts except black provided that the toner color will still show when pressed on the shirt. It beats hand trimming with scissors.

As Kelly pointed out part my post is off topic (inkjet) so I beg your pardon anyone. Here is the link for Imageclip for inkjet: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t71144-post422265.html#422265


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## Girlzndollz

diane143 said:


> Is he using the inkjet version in a laser? or an inkjet? I'd be willing to try anything that works


 
With the inkjet version, the transfer part is printed with an inkjet printer, and the mask is printed with a laser printer. 

I can't see the title of the link Luis posted above, but I would bet that's to his "How Imageclip for Inkjets tests" thread. Luis did a great job providing alot of details of the paper, including what I just wrote. If you try it, hope it works out for you. 

Thanks for more great info on this stuff, Luis.  I always enjoy your posts.


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## freebird1963

MYDAMIT said:


> i tried duracotton HT and Techniprint they are both my favorite laser paper. But with the new duracotton light + white i'm still having problem in printing with my oki5500 printer. If they can fix this then this is perfect laser paper for me.


ROQ
what issues were there with the new paper and oki c5500. ? Thats my printer and was thinking of trying the new autoart lights + whites paper ?

Thanks
Mark


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## mrstitch

I use the same printer and the fuser would eat the paper. Then ghosting would appear.
I solved the fuser problem by adding to the paper a slight crease downward when feeding the paper.
Ghosting is still a problem, though.


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## freebird1963

Thanks.
I think I am going to give the Techniprint 4.0 a try.
These are for some family reunion shirts on white.
And then my softball team is going to play in a tourney at disneys wide world of sports and we just need some shirts. These will be on grey.
Nothing fancy. The techniprint seems to get some good reviews.

Thanks
Mark


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