# Problems sublimating iPhone cases....please help!



## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

Hi guys. Really needing some help here. I'm on the brink of tears. I've made over 1500 awesome iPhone cases using this setup, but recently I've had no luck sublimating my cases. They're all coming out with the orange peel, watermark look. I've blown through 50 blanks (really 50) today and last night. I haven't changed anything, and I can not figure it out. 

Setup:
Mac
Ricoh 3100DN
Sawgrass inks (all colors brand new)
Exuma heatpress
Coastal blanks (all types are messing up. 4 & 5, so it's not just from one batch)
Image Right R Premium paper
Using nonwaxed butcher paper on top and bottom
Shiny metal side up


I started at 380, 45s, light pressure, and I've literally worked a chart altering each variable one at a time. I've seen many say it's the pressure, so I've lowered the pressure to the point where no sublimation occurs. Doesn't work. I've gotten close, but when I finally get no orange peel...the dark colors don't sublimate all the way. 

I know I'm on the right side of the paper. Triple checked. I've also checked my press with a laser therm. It's good. 

Any ideas???


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

nobody?  I know there are other threads discussing this, but I am hoping someone will have an idea that I'm not thinking of.


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## ObjectMaker (Mar 22, 2012)

Do you mean it has orange peel texture or it has an haze on it? The only time I had the texture was when I was using the chinese inserts but I've never had it with the dynasub inserts.

I get haze on mine and have never been able to solve that issue consistently but its only noticable in certain types of light and no one has complained about it.

Are you using the same paper you've always used?


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

Orange peel is *usually* from too much heat. Though 380 isn't bad, try even lower -- I regularly use 360-365. To make sure you get good blacks up the dwell time, but be sure not to overdo it, or you'll start getting that browning look.

(That said, I don't use Ricoh sub inks. Yours may behave differently. In any case, 400 degrees is simply "optimum" for most substrates. Subbing will occur at much lower temperatures, and is sometimes necessary.)

Test for the best setting by cutting up a blank into three or four pieces, and try at 5 degree intervals. That way at least you won't waste a whole blank on every test.

Because it worked for you before, and if nothing else has changed with your blanks, it's possible your heat press is now hotter than it says it is. That can happen. Best to get some liquid crystal testing strips to find out, so you can work from a known.

On pressure -- going lighter can help some, but I've found the problem is mostly heat related. As you've noted, too light and and you either get incomplete transfer, or run a greater risk of ghosting.

One final thing: Be sure to clean your blanks with 91% isopropyl alcohol after peeling off the film. In fact, peel off, clean once, let dry, clean again. Use a microfiber lens cleaning cloth to wipe off any lint. Then press.


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. Cutting up the blanks is a great idea. Gordon, when you press at 360-365, what is your usual dwelling time?


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

Just a thought, but is there any chance that your paper may have more humidity in it at the time of pressing? Has it gotten hotter or more humid where you live? Is your paper stored in an air conditioned environment? If paper has a lot of trapped moisture in it, it may boil out (steam) on the blank as you are heating it to sublimation temperature. If your process is the same, what has changed in your environment?


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

Thanks for another idea!! I live in So Cal. It has been getting warmer, and we've had some more humid weather recently. I do keep the paper in an air conditioned room, but we also have our windows open a lot. If the moisture was affecting the paper, how could I cure this currently and prevent it in the future?


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

I saw a video somewhere once but I can't find it now. Do a test with a transfer paper and place it on your heat press for a minute or two letting the upper platen hover over the transfer. Do not close the press. That should drive out any moisture from the paper as a test. I did find this video which explains some problems with moisture in the transfer. 

http://youtu.be/E5iem-aQDyA


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## 2dolla2holla (Sep 8, 2011)

Post a picture of an example


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

I tried to take a photo, but the camera wouldn't pick it up. You can only see it when you look at it towards the light. I tried slightly "drying" the paper as suggested and cleaning the blanks with alcohol both with no resolution. 

I am having some luck today sublimating around 320 for 110 seconds each....although that seems like forever  No heat spots on the cases, but the dark colors still aren't perfect. Darn close though!!

Does anyone sublimate paper side up with success? If so, what time and temp settings? Thanks so much for all of the suggestions!


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

One more question, when I go to sublimate I check the press with my laser gun, and the temp is accurate. When I lift the press after sublimating an item, I check the temp again immediately and it's 10-20 degrees higher than the digital display reads. Is it normal to increase temp during pressing?


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## headfirst (Jun 29, 2011)

Decal_Designs said:


> Just a thought, but is there any chance that your paper may have more humidity in it at the time of pressing? Has it gotten hotter or more humid where you live? Is your paper stored in an air conditioned environment? If paper has a lot of trapped moisture in it, it may boil out (steam) on the blank as you are heating it to sublimation temperature. If your process is the same, what has changed in your environment?


I was going to suggest this. Try a fresh, un-opened batch of paper and see if it helps.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

I press for 90 seconds at 360ish. I always pre-heat the lower platen before doing a pressing, though, to make sure it's piping hot. You don't want the temperature suddenly dropping as all the heat is being drawn into the base.

I have color profiles made for these "cooler" transfers, so the colors are rebalanced. Upping the dwell gives you solid blacks, but there is a color shift. Apart from a custom color profile, you might be able to deal with it by doing a test color chart, and substracting some of the color that it's shifting toward in your graphics app. Before I made my profiles my colors tended to run blue, so I added a few points of yellow to compensate.

On IR heat guns, I don't know the specifics of your press, but I can't use them on mine. My Hix press uses an unpainted aluminum upper platen, and always registers some 100-150 degrees cooler than it really is.

Good idea about the paper and humidity. I live in the same area as you do, and while it's not been a swamp, it has been a little warmer this week (it's lightly raining now). I always keep my paper in resealable zipper bags just in case.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

GordonM said:


> I press for 90 seconds at 360ish. I always pre-heat the lower platen before doing a pressing, though, to make sure it's piping hot. You don't want the temperature suddenly dropping as all the heat is being drawn into the base.
> 
> I have color profiles made for these "cooler" transfers, so the colors are rebalanced. Upping the dwell gives you solid blacks, but there is a color shift. Apart from a custom color profile, you might be able to deal with it by doing a test color chart, and substracting some of the color that it's shifting toward in your graphics app. Before I made my profiles my colors tended to run blue, so I added a few points of yellow to compensate.
> 
> ...


For the IR on a non "black body" you can calibrate against an accurate contact thermometer or place some black high temp heat tape or similar somewhere on the platen, measure, then figure the delta offset.

****
UPDATE - I meant a strip of heat sensing tape.


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

My open paper is now in a bag with rice. I'm really interested to see if this improves things! I got super close last night. I managed to make 70 cases with very few flaws. It's so weird though. I made one at Gordon's suggested time/temp...it came out flawless. Made another a few seconds later....complete orange peel. I'm thinking it has to be moisture or my heat press :/


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

How often are you replacing the blowout paper? I use regular (real cheap Wal-Mart) copy paper, and replace it about every other pressing. If you see any wrinkling, put it in the recycling and grab a new sheet.

Before each lower the top platen and let it re-heat the bottom platen for 10-15 seconds. Lift, put your case down, then cook away. After pressing, and when it's cool enough, see if there's any moisture on the bottom platen -- I assume you have a teflon cover.

70 covers in a day -- impressive. Do you sell on Etsy/eBay?


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## greenmonkey (Aug 18, 2012)

I've had occasional problems with that same thing...a mottled look on the insert after pressing. Have also seen this on the aluminum license plates.

Since I live in the deep South (Alabama), I always dry my prints prior to pressing (hover method) AND dry the blowout paper. Most of the time, I'll toss a couple of sheets of cover paper on the press and press it until it steams no more.

I have used alcohol to clean the insert AFTER it cools and some of the mottling comes off or is reduced. I have gotten to where I clean them all after cooling to make sure they look their best before shipping out.

As mentioned earlier, be VERY careful handling the hot insert as sometimes the coating on the edges will flake off. This goes for ANY of the thinner metals (DynaSub especially). The coating is very soft (and HOT) when it comes off the press. Handle gently.


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

Man, I got excited when I read this hoping that was a solution. I use my blowout paper 50+ times before changing. I gave it a try, and it made it worse LOL. I've tried copy paper, parchment, and now I'm on unwaxed plain butcher paper (as Conde suggests). I'm going to call Coastal tomorrow. I am literally at a loss....

I'm on Etsy. I don't sell 70 a day, I was just behind due to these issues. I average about 30-35 a day. Which is why I need to figure this out. It's taking WAY too long. I'm convinced it shouldn't be this hard.


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## casemakerbyday (Apr 15, 2013)

I'm going to try drying the prints more before taping them to the blank.


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## greenmonkey (Aug 18, 2012)

casemakerbyday said:


> I'm going to try drying the prints more before taping them to the blank.


I'll dry mine for at least 30 seconds.

Also, not that I think it will make a difference, but I use a Ricoh GX7000 and DyeTrans paper from Conde as well as inserts from Conde.

I tend to favor the thicker ChromaLuxe inserts over the DynaSub inserts as well.


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## coastalbusiness (May 9, 2006)

Definitely give us a call, Misty. We'll try to help you figure out what the problem is and fix it.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

The point about drying the prints is a good point. Because of my workflow it's always a good 5-10 minutes, sometimes longer, between printing and transfer. 

It's odd that using *new* sheets of blowout paper would make it worse, except if as noted above it also has a higher moisture content because it's straight out of the pack. You might try pre-pressing it as noted. Parchment paper by definition doesn't really wick up moisture, so I'm not sure how humidity would be a problem there. 

The thing about replacing the paper is that wrinkles and other textures caused by repeated use can transfer through to your substrate.


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