# how do i print white text with heat transfer paper onto a dark shirt?



## ilker

how do i print white text with heat transfer paper onto a dark shirt?


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## COEDS

I think most peple use a vinyl cutter to cut lettering with heat press vinyl for garments. I have heard of some using transfer paper for darks and trimming the letters with scissors.I know you can buy heat applied lettering too. .... JB


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## jpol

but how about using sublimation ink for dark cotton shirts?


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## bern

jpol said:


> but how about using sublimation ink for dark cotton shirts?


Sublimation inks do not work on cotton or dark colour shirts . Sublimation works on polyester and then the material has to be a lite colour . Even if it did work on cotton there is no white sublimation ink so we still have the problem of white text on Dark cotton materials . With the vinyl like thermoflex you can have excellent results . The text looks bright and the shirt washes well , it is also well suited to custom one off shirts .


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## CarlT

The only option for white lettering is to either use heat transfer vinyl or you can use opaque material and cut around the letters..tedious task, and really not worth it. Of course if you have a good cutter you simply cut the lettering out of the opaque transfer material in that way.

One more option: Buy a laser printer and white toner and your set.

EDit: you can also use a slightly off-white color to print and it WILL show up.


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## Juliet

All transfer paper I know of for darks have a white base....because a printer does not print white. So if it's all non-connected text, then you would have to cut the paper in the shape of each character (letter). I cut my text with cad-cut heat transfer vinyl, so all the words are all pre-spaced on Mylar. If you don't have a vinyl cutter, you can order them cut already from Stahls'.


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## Jokofix

In case you do not have a cutter, and do not want to go into the tedious hand cutting process;
What happen if you make the surroundings black (if the material is black). Or in the same color as the t-shirt.
Anyone here who have tried that out? Is that technique usable in some way?


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## sunnydayz

Hi Jan, the problem with doing it this way is that when you start washing the shirt and the black ink on the transfer fades, you see the faded transfer paper against the shirt and it looks really bad. Then you have a customer that is not happy because the faded square around the text. Hope this helps


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## jpol

bern said:


> Sublimation inks do not work on cotton or dark colour shirts . Sublimation works on polyester and then the material has to be a lite colour . Even if it did work on cotton there is no white sublimation ink so we still have the problem of white text on Dark cotton materials . With the vinyl like thermoflex you can have excellent results . The text looks bright and the shirt washes well , it is also well suited to custom one off shirts .


i appreciate you giving me the tips guys. thanks 

as you can see, i'm still a newbie. i really have no experience with these. but what is the best way to print on dark shirts? the designs i need to print are too detailed and screen printing is not an option. please help. thanks in advance.


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## COEDS

Have you considered having digital transfers made.....check them out at www.transferexpress.com .......JB


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## Jokofix

sunnydayz said:


> Hi Jan, the problem with doing it this way is that when you start washing the shirt and the black ink on the transfer fades...


Whoops, I do not want to misuse this post but the inks I am using do not fade ever, not even after 100 washes so that argument is not an issue for me.

I would see more problems in finding and adjusting the right color in order to match the base color of a t-shirt. Don't you think so?

Do you think that if fading is not an issue my suggestion about filling the surrounds of white text with the base color of the t-shirt might work?


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## sunnydayz

There are some people that do it that way. The fading doesnt always come from the ink so much as it just doesnt hold up on the paper. What kind of paper are you using?


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## Jokofix

You're right. The grade of fading but also the vividness of the colors depend on the formulation of the coating and if the paper (coating) is designed to accept all kind of inks it should have enough protection against water and light but there is one however.

That is if you are using inks what contain binder. The binder is responsible for to bond the colors with the fabric which means you can print direct to the fabric (DTG) if you could feed the t-shirt through your printer.

The clue however here is that 1. the paper need a certain temperature to activate the process of curing (heat press) and 2. the inks I am using needs the very same temperature to activate the binder. 

Means that using both as a combination the inks gives you an additional protection in wash ability and light fastness with no additional required steps. (just in a single heat cure)


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## sunnydayz

This was one of the reasons I bought my dtg, was because there was not a good dark paper out there  I have yet to see a opaque paper that holds up well.


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## Jokofix

Yeah, but it tokes more the 20 years for the ink formulators to find a reliable pigment based ink that have put the common hassle such as clogging and fading into the past. The 20 years is also the time I am testing this ink and paper from various manufacturers.

Coating for transfer paper is also not that easy but I believe with what we have today it comes very close to what we are waiting for.


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## Girlzndollz

For a cheap way to use opaque paper to make letters without a cutter or using scissors, some folks use scrapbooking die cutters -- cutting systems used by the scrapbooking world. 

Some systems are cheap and some cheaper, others can run some money, but the more expensive ones ($200 -$350) can also cut thinner vinyl. 

Check them out at craft stores like Joann's, Michael's, AC Moore. Walmart carries some of the systems as well. A google search will return hits.


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## Girlzndollz

Jokofix said:


> You're right. The grade of fading but also the vividness of the colors depend on the formulation of the coating and if the paper (coating) is designed to accept all kind of inks it should have enough protection against water and light but there is one however.


There are so many shades of black shirts, and shades of black ink, I wouldn't even bother with this process. The OP mentioned dark shirts, but the same is true with Navy Blue shirts and inks, as well as the other dark colors. 

Second, the dye in the shirt will fade over time, and to look good, the ink will need to fade at the same rate. 

There are too many variables to predict with this method, IMO, and I would just use one of the other methods mentioned in this thread that have a higher reliablity rate. 

White opaque paper may not hold up as long as white vinyl, but at least the only thing fading will be the shirt.


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## Juliet

I've mixed white vinyl and opaque transfer paper on the same shirt (black shirt). The opaque transfer paper had allot of white in the design. After I pressed it, I saw the white of the paper was not as bright as the white vinyl....so if you have a heat press and you are just putting basic white text on a dark shirt, I would recommend cutting them (if you can) or ordering them pre-cut out of heat transfer vinyl. Some vinyl can be pressed in about 10 seconds, peel off the Mylar or cover sheet hot, fold the shirt...bam...your done.


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## Jokofix

Girlzndollz said:


> Second, the dye in the shirt will fade over time, and to look good, the ink will need to fade at the same rate.
> 
> There are too many variables to predict with this method, IMO, and I would just use one of the other methods mentioned in this thread that have a higher reliablity rate.


I have set up my work flow as I know what paper I am using in what situation. I stick to that paper and do not swap over that much. That allows me to create my own custom ICC profiles matching paper/ink and fabric. Sure I only make profiles for the most commonly used fabrics but the rest comes close. That is so much reliable that I it allows me to match the colors from almost everything what is within the range of the color gamut of that profile.
If my customers want to have e.g. their special green what appears in their logo then he will get it. If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem and in addition; the transparent nature of the inks let me strongly believe that fading of the fabric will also impact the clarity of any print/ink in the same rate.


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## Girlzndollz

Jokofix said:


> If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem


That is my only concern with this process... 

I'm sure you can match the background of the transfer to the shirt perfectly when freshly printed. No question there. 

For me, I know using vinyl - or another process in which I did not match the ink in the transfer background to the shirt color - that after 10 washes - that shirt will still present nicely bc there is no fade variance going on. 

This is just for me, what I am looking for in a shirt product. You should absolutely use whatever printing process you are comfortable with. Best regards, Kelly


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## Jokofix

May be we have the differences right there. If it comes to inks I deal with many different substrates and that does not stop with cottons or polyester products. If talking about transfer papers I am always solely focused on those designed for 100% cotton and 50% - 50% blends.


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## sjidohair

Black shirt
Dark shirt transfer paper, which has a white underbase
get graphic ready, go to the part you want white,
put white in there,( it actually is not there, but shows white,)
the rest has to have color around the image,
print it, 
press it
It shows up white, and washes well, for me too, it is not pure white,, but them again, the only thing that is pure white is vinyl, even screen printing is not pure white,, in my experience,
it works try it.
Sandy Jo


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## Jokofix

Thanks Monkey, that confirmation was just where we was looking for and what people can use to start with.


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## Girlzndollz

sjidohair said:


> Black shirt
> Dark shirt transfer paper, which has a white underbase
> get graphic ready, go to the part you want white,
> put white in there,( it actually is not there, but shows white,)
> the rest has to have color around the image,
> print it,
> press it
> It shows up white, and washes well, for me too, it is not pure white,, but them again, the only thing that is pure white is vinyl, even screen printing is not pure white,, in my experience,
> it works try it.
> Sandy Jo


Black shirt with a green background I "would" do... thanks for the instructions, Sandy Jo...  

I agree, Jokofix, I think you have special inks you work with, don't you? I couldn't trust my Durabrite to stand up to the job... but like the idea. I just don't use the tools to pull it off.


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## ashamutt

Jokofix said:


> I have set up my work flow as I know what paper I am using in what situation. I stick to that paper and do not swap over that much. That allows me to create my own custom ICC profiles matching paper/ink and fabric. Sure I only make profiles for the most commonly used fabrics but the rest comes close. That is so much reliable that I it allows me to match the colors from almost everything what is within the range of the color gamut of that profile.
> If my customers want to have e.g. their special green what appears in their logo then he will get it. If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem and in addition; the transparent nature of the inks let me strongly believe that fading of the fabric will also impact the clarity of any print/ink in the same rate.


So...do you sell HT pigment inks ??? for my EPSON C120 and epson 1400???

ALSO... what transfer paper do you sell...red grid, blue grid, joto,neenah...etc...???


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## taikuodo

Wait, let me get this straight. (Im a noob to heat transfers).

If i buy a color laser printer like the Okidata 3400, some DuraCotton HT transfer paper, I can't print *WHITE?*


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## Trimere_Ink

taikuodo said:


> Wait, let me get this straight. (Im a noob to heat transfers).
> 
> If i buy a color laser printer like the Okidata 3400, some DuraCotton HT transfer paper, I can't print *WHITE?*


Unless you've discovered the first printer to include White Ink...no.


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## badalou

sunnydayz said:


> There are some people that do it that way. The fading doesnt always come from the ink so much as it just doesnt hold up on the paper. What kind of paper are you using?


I saw on his web site he sells translution paper.. That is Iron All paper under the other name.


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## taikuodo

Trimere_Ink said:


> Unless you've discovered the first printer to include White Ink...no.


So all of those prints with white in them, are they speciality custom printed? 

The plastisol transfers that you order online?


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## Trimere_Ink

taikuodo said:


> So all of those prints with white in them, are they speciality custom printed?
> 
> The plastisol transfers that you order online?


That's how I do it. I currently use Transfer Express and occasionally Versa Trans as my suppliers. You can use their templates and clip art to make designs, or upload your own. Pricing is by sheets and you can gang up multiple images on one sheet depending on the size of the design and such. They have Plastisol transfers, they call em Goof Proof and sorta like a vinyl called Hot Split, plus Digital and Photo prints. Digi Prints are great for nylon, spandex, and lycra and it stretches with the material. I think you should seriously check it out...at least to start. I eventually will be adding a dedicated epson printer with a pigment CIS to do the smaller one or two pop shots, but I put my money into software this year instead of hardware/equipment. But it works and I don't have to worry about if my colors are going to bleed or w/e the normal concerns are with home transfer printing.
That's just me though.


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## Jokofix

ilker said:


> how do i print white text with heat transfer paper onto a dark shirt?


*Note: Please don't put me wrong*: _Lou, Kelly, Mrs. Bacon, Sandy Jo and the all others_ who are posting helpful replies to this original question and asked me _(Jokofix)_ details about the products I may sell.

Every one knows I am a reseller too and know my web site as well. Therefore some questions (because of the detailed nature of it) I can not and/or I am not allowed to answer here in this excellent board because it would violate the rules of this, again excellent forum which is *1 of the 2* things I never are intent to do.
The second thing which, never my intention, to animate people leaving this "must be a member from" forum to my own small little board.
It's important to me that you understand my point in this matter.
*<-- End Note*

Iker, back to your question, we have spend last week a tremendous amount of time, paper and efforts to find out the way of getting the best results of white text transferred onto dark garments accepted by professionals. We have used the original Translution paper, the version which is designed or formulated for digital transfers onto black or dark garments, where this paper is indeed available under a number of other names too. We have compared the results with other transfers we have on dark without really knowing the history (printer/ink type-brand/paper/pressure/dwell time etc.) of all the involved people comes to the conclusion that our own prints where the preferred ones.

We believe that Sandy Jo e.g. posted here an excellent way to start with and want to put just one or two additional tips on how to go from there.
*Be aware of the fact that fabric is not like fabric*. 
The ideal dwell time, pressure and pressure can be vary by different types of fabric and it is important (when the job is important) to play around with these parameter a little before you are going into the real production. 

*The colors you would like to use in unprinted areas can be out of gamut.*
The closer you can get to this background color value the better the results of course but sometimes this color will not be available in your printer's gamut. 
You may not have an accurate color profile for all your ink/printer/fabric combinations and is this the case you have to live with some compromises here. The eventually residue in unprinted areas are pretty much affected by these.
Unlike many others fortunately we are in the situation having our spectrophotometer by hand that allows us to calibrate the printer and fabrics we are using most in order to get color values back close as possible.

*How white is white and how white can you go.*
The solid appearance of the white is also pretty much affected by the dwell time and temperature. We recommend spending one t-shirt (If job is very important) in doing a few tests to find best temperature and dwell time settings. 
*Our Test Recommendations:* Make an image of circa 1x2 Inch
Image is: 1x1 inch *unprinted *and 1x1 inch *estimated t-shirt color*
Print 1 sheet of transfer paper with the repeated image, cut and transfer it to the t-shirt with vary 1. dwell times 2. pressure and 3. temperature.
For *dwell times *we have taken steps of 3 seconds above and beyond the by the manufacturer recommended time.
*Pressure *as light, medium and strong
And *temperature *in steps of 3 degrees.

Hope this helps a little too.


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## FulStory

COEDS said:


> I think most peple use a vinyl cutter to cut lettering with heat press vinyl for garments. I have heard of some using transfer paper for darks and trimming the letters with scissors.I know you can buy heat applied lettering too. .... JB


hi, do you know how is the washability of this printing method?


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## FulStory

Jokofix said:


> In case you do not have a cutter, and do not want to go into the tedious hand cutting process;
> What happen if you make the surroundings black (if the material is black). Or in the same color as the t-shirt.
> Anyone here who have tried that out? Is that technique usable in some way?


hi, do you know how is the washability of this printing method? I mean heat transfer vinyl


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