# bad looking embroidery



## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

What can be done to reduce the pulling of the fabric. See Pic.

I used a 3oz backing. Thanks


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

What is the fabric?

Better hooping, Better Underlay, Shorter stitches, change stitch angles, change pathing, change entry and exit point of objects, try a topping.


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## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

fabric is very thin 100% polyester Adidas wind shirt


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

Is it lined? If unlined you can also add a little spray adhesive to the backing before hooping.

Underlay in very short stitches will help nail the fabric down to the backing.

Also, use the smallest possible hoop, round hoop preferred. 

Do you have editing capabilities to make design changes or was this outsourced digitizing?


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## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

Sounds like good advice on the backing and hoop size. Gonna give it a try.

It is not lined.

I did outsource the digitizing. I sent them the same photo and am waiting to hear back from them.


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

With no lining your job just got easier. The spray adhesive and a small round hoop will help.

But I also think the stitch angles are wrong, especially on all of those little circles.


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## idonaldson (Sep 29, 2008)

I cannot add to what @Liberty provided all great advice. I would add backing and shorten stitches to stop all of that puckering. If you going to use adhesive I would also put a layer of wax paper to help stop the thread from pulling and gumming up the needles.


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## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

the stitches are running horz. What angle would you suggest?


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## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

Wax paper as a topping? or where? I have never used that before.


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## idonaldson (Sep 29, 2008)

Wax paper in addition to the backing - that is only a trick I use if I am using adhesive backing or applique with adhesive. As for angles - look at the angle of the material and do an angle counter to it. To stop the pulling from satin stitches do a complex fill or use satin with shorter stitches.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

It's hard to tell with this photo, but in most cases long stitches (along with the tension that they produce) are causing the sinching. If you strengthen the fabric to backing bond by using a shorter and apposing underlay or shorter double ZZ you may fix this. You could also have your digitizer use a split satin depending on the overall width of the satins. Too much density on this type of fabric can also cause distortion. If there is any stretch to this fabric, share that with your puncher, and make sure you do not hoop too tight.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

ApparelFarm said:


> Wax paper as a topping? or where? I have never used that before.


After you have put the hooped item on the machine slide a piece of wax paper between the hoop and the needle plate. This helps keep the adhesive from gumming up your needle. Just remove the excess when you trim the backing.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

What about lowering stitch density on this type of material? I can't make the pic any bigger to see it better but that is another option I can think of.


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## ApparelFarm (Nov 25, 2010)

Thanks for the great replies.

I ended up using 1 layer of sticky back backing with the wax paper under it. And 4 layers of dissolving topping. Came out a lot better. Thanks!!


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

Wow, I'm glad you got through it but 4 pieces of topping? Anytime you have to pile on the backing or topping it is indicative you are compensating for another issue. On some jobs thats the easy way to get through it but when the day comes that you get a grip on managing push and pull, your embroidery life will get easier and your product quality will be much improved.


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## idonaldson (Sep 29, 2008)

@Liberty what is your approach - other than lots of practice and trial and error - for tackling push and pull, - just asking no test implied?


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## JAF (Oct 12, 2008)

Add education & experience, lots of experience to your list. For me the first few years was practice and trial & error. Then everything starts to click. For example when doing a thick towel you know that stitches are going to sink into the material. So you need to add extra pull comp, underlay & some density. 
My Pulse software has recipes for different materials, so it gives you a starting point. I don't use recipes because they didn't have them when I started digitizing and I'm not use to using them. Also, I prefer to have control over my settings and not have the computer deicde for me.


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

A lot of experimenting.

And once in a while you get a design where everyone goes "wow" and we go back and take it apart to figure out why.

Learning that perfect designs never look perfect on screen. If you want a circle, you digitize an oval, etc. (Thats a bit overly simplified but you get the point)

Stitch angles and start/stop points are crucial. Same is true with avoiding overly long stitch lengths.

Underlay, underlay, underlay. On almost every fabric, you build the design with the underlay and the top stitches are just for show, especially with lettering.

We use some of the recipes in Wilcom as a starting point and we have others that we've modified and saved for future use.

And more experimenting...




idonaldson said:


> @Liberty what is your approach - other than lots of practice and trial and error - for tackling push and pull, - just asking no test implied?


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## idonaldson (Sep 29, 2008)

That is usually my approach. And if I contract out a design - I surely take it apart and see how they did it. I turn all the layers off and turn them on one at a time to see their methodology and how I did it originally. In four years I learned a lot but no where near where I want to be. See you down the road.


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