# Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink



## Girlzndollz

Here are pictures of a test with Jetprosofstretch paper, Dye ink, Washed with One cup of bleach repeatedly. Warm water/ High heat dryer / Rightside out, except for one wash. Bleach washes = 7 times.

This shirt is a Jerzees 50/50 HW blend, and was printed with Canon OEM regular dye ink. This test was to test color fastness of JPSS with this dye ink, and I tossed the bleach in after 5 washes and it showed no fading, just to toughen up the test.

I think the results are fabulous. After seeing the results, I am calling the testing done, but will continue to wash the shirt over the summer and post updates in this thread only. Have a great day!

PS: This may open a door for JPSS users, but this doesn't apply to other papers. Also, I only tested the Canon ink, any other inks will need to be tested to see if the combination works as well as this one, I know Claria ink is working as well with JPSS.

That being said, I am totally Impressed with Jetprosofstretch... Wonderful Paper!!

*Picture 1* on the top left is: Just after pressing, before wash one.
*Picture 2* on the top middle is: Just after cold water wash/low temp dryer.
*Picture 3* on the top right is: wash 7, 6 warm water washes/high heat dryer, and twice with one cup of bleach.
*Picture 4* on the bottom left is: wash 12, 11 warm water washes/high heat dryer 
and *7 times with One Cup of Bleach*!!! WOW!


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Okay, someone asked me to post a picture of a pigment ink shirt with JPSS that has been washed in bleach.. so here is it. This shirt is a Gildan's 50/50 Ultra Blend.

I do not have the original press picture, as I wasn't planning ahead for this particular test, but I can easily press a new one and post a freshly pressed picture.

This picture is of the shirt after at least 10 washes in warm water, high heat dryer, and at least 7 times washed with One Cup of Bleach.


----------



## earl

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

thanks kelly, great results. 
do you think jpps will hold as good on 100% cotton?
regards earl.


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Earl yes it will I use 100 percent cotton and print with I use sublimation dyes with JPSS and Cotton and the color is sweet I will be starting new post on this


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



earl said:


> thanks kelly, great results.
> do you think jpps will hold as good on 100% cotton?
> regards earl.


Yes, I do. I have a Hanes Beefy Tee 100% cotton that I printed with the same design and it has been through the same washes as the Gildan's above. It looks the same except for the following.

The thing I find with 100% cotton is, after rigorous test washes like this, it experiences what I call "fiber lift". It is tiny threads of cotton that lift and give the shirt the appearance of a light fade, tho it is not faded, it is only the richness of the cotton lifting. I've heard this can be corrected by re-pressing a shirt, but I'm not going to sell them to a customer and give them that advice. I just stick with the 50/50's and avoid it all together. 

But long story short, yes, I do have a 100 cotton that is surviving as well, but the pics won't do it justice. You have to see in person that the whole shirt - in fact - has the fiber lift, not just the design area. 

Glad you guys like the test.


----------



## Leatherneck

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Yes, I do. I have a Hanes Beefy Tee 100% cotton that I printed with the same design and it has been through the same washes as the Gildan's above. It looks the same except for the following.
> 
> The thing I find with 100% cotton is, after rigorous test washes like this, it experiences what I call "fiber lift". It is tiny threads of cotton that lift and give the shirt the appearance of a light fade, tho it is not faded, it is only the richness of the cotton lifting. I've heard this can be corrected by re-pressing a shirt, but I'm not going to sell them to a customer and give them that advice. I just stick with the 50/50's and avoid it all together.
> 
> But long story short, yes, I do have a 100 cotton that is surviving as well, but the pics won't do it justice. You have to see in person that the whole shirt - in fact - has the fiber lift, not just the design area.
> 
> Glad you guys like the test.


Kelly, awesome test . Glad you were able to get pics up of just how incredible jpss is. I too choose to use 50/50 shirts to avoid the fiber lifting issue but am sure there would be no issue with using a 100% cotton garment.


----------



## desireej

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thanks for the info because I just order some jetprosofstretch paper today good to know that it hold up that good.


----------



## Brothawisdom

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Recently received JPSS and did five shirts using Epson 1400 with Heat Transfer Ink from Inkjetcarts and refillable carts. EXCELLENT RESULTS. Washed 6 times, no color loss or fading. The paper is by far the best I have used. The instructions say that it is cool or hot peel. I noticed that when I hot peel, some of the ink remains on the paper, but when I cold peel there is no ink left on the paper. Is this the norm? Has anyone else encountered this problem?


----------



## 2STRONG

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thats for the test info looks grest I was woundering if the image was trimed or just applkied as is without trimming. it looks very clean arong he image.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



2STRONG said:


> Thats for the test info looks grest I was woundering if the image was trimed or just applkied as is without trimming. it looks very clean arong he image.


I did not trim the image, it is a box. Even in person, it looks that good. 

Happy, happy, JPSS, JPSS!!!


----------



## ivancuriel

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I'm glad to see that this has provided an alternative to those with only dye based printers  good job!


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Brothawisdom said:


> Recently received JPSS and did five shirts using Epson 1400 with Heat Transfer Ink from Inkjetcarts and refillable carts. EXCELLENT RESULTS. Washed 6 times, no color loss or fading. The paper is by far the best I have used.


Awesome, good for you. Another happy user. This paper is really getting just great reviews left and right, and thanks for naming where you got the inks that are working well for you. 



> The instructions say that it is cool or hot peel. I noticed that when I hot peel, some of the ink remains on the paper, but when I cold peel there is no ink left on the paper. Is this the norm? Has anyone else encountered this problem?


Yes, I have seen posts about part of the image staying on the paper, or even tiny, tiny pinholes that happen randomly, which I've had the pinholes, not the other problem. I just keep a set of pigment ink fabric markers handy for the pinholes, but they are rare, and have happened with Ironall as well, so I'm not going to single out JPSS for that either way. But have seen the posts regarding image not fully transferring. The are the usual suggestions to help correct it, and it's hard to find out how things resolve if the OP has success and doesn't update the thread, but sometimes you hear back that is was more pressure needed, or the seams were in the way, a shorter dwell time solved it for one person (she thought her press may run hot), higher temp for someone else. It's kind of all over what solves what for each person who has written. I'm making a mental note that for you, it was cold peel. Thanks for sharing that.

If it's okay with you, I'd like to share with you a link to an older thread on cold peeling JPSS. Some folks experimented with that early on. I'm linking you in to a cross section wash test, but if you start at the beginning, there was some cracking on cold peels when they were washed in cold water.

It doesn't sound at all like you have any wash problems at all. Would you mind reviewing this thread a little, and giving your input on your success, as well as sharing your wash method? I always worried about cold peels bc of the special wash methods folks said they needed, but maybe that is not the case anymore... it would be so nice to learn this problem has resolved.

Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t40080-9.html#post242491


----------



## earl

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> I did not trim the image, it is a box. Even in person, it looks that good.
> 
> Happy, happy, JPSS, JPSS!!!


great test again kelly.
tell me, could you see the white box when you first pressed the shirt?
also what color shirt is that?

regards earl.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



earl said:


> great test again kelly.
> tell me, could you see the white box when you first pressed the shirt?
> also what color shirt is that?
> 
> regards earl.


 
Hiya Earl,

The shirt is white. When I first pressed the shirt, I could Barely see the box. This shirt is a Jerzees HW 50/50 blend. 

The thing I find about JPSS is, while the window/box is faint, it will be less on some shirts than others.

Here are some shirts I have in mind when I consider how noticable the window is:

*Jerzees HW 5050 - very, very hard to see right off the press.
*Gildan's Ultra Blend 5050 - a bit more noticable.
*Hanes Beefy Tee 100 cotton - I can see it more than the Gildan's.

It's still light - comparatively speaking for lght papers in general - but given the choice of the Gildan's or Hane's, the two I pressed - I chose the Gildan's for the better - less seen - window.

The Jerzees is like it's already gone, but I really don't prefer the quality and fabric of the Jerzees over Gildan's. 

Mostly, what I am trying to say, the shirt will change how much a window can or can't be seen. That Jerzees shirt, I can close my eyes and don't feel a thing. Too bad it wasn't a bit thicker... I'd be my fav shirt.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Has anyone else tried bleaching your Jetproshirts?


----------



## ashamutt

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Yes, I do. I have a Hanes Beefy Tee 100% cotton that I printed with the same design and it has been through the same washes as the Gildan's above. It looks the same except for the following.
> 
> The thing I find with 100% cotton is, after rigorous test washes like this, it experiences what I call "fiber lift". It is tiny threads of cotton that lift and give the shirt the appearance of a light fade, tho it is not faded, it is only the richness of the cotton lifting. I've heard this can be corrected by re-pressing a shirt, but I'm not going to sell them to a customer and give them that advice. I just stick with the 50/50's and avoid it all together.
> 
> But long story short, yes, I do have a 100 cotton that is surviving as well, but the pics won't do it justice. You have to see in person that the whole shirt - in fact - has the fiber lift, not just the design area.
> 
> Glad you guys like the test.


I find this happening with 100% cotton as well.... but with the 50/50 maybe it is just hanes...???
My hanes heavyweight 50/50 has fiber lift...but my jerzees 50/50 has none!
weird!huh?


----------



## ashamutt

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Has anyone else tried bleaching your Jetproshirts?


YES!!!
I have a shirt that was my FIRST press and my FIRST JPSS press...FIRST FOR EVERYTHING!!!LOL!!!

anyway it is on a hanes 50/50 heavyweight tee , durabrite inks(before I switched ink) and it was pressed in march.
I have washed it with bleach so much it is hard to count.... NO FADING!!!!!! WOW!!!!
FIBER LIFT BUT NO FADING!!!! 
(iron takes care of this temporarily)

My new inks work great too!
But haven't been tested as much with bleach.
I need to do this.


----------



## printpuller

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Kelly, 
I am just getting into this and when I read your post I was thrilled! I'm kind of groping along trying not to make costly mistakes! Thanks. You really answered a lot of scary questions for me. So let me get this straight.
I need to use JPSS (transfer paper?) and a dye ink?
I have an Epson 1280 (used) with a bulk delivery system so is there an ink that will work in it just as well as the Cannon?
Also, can you let me know where you get your products? (Paper, ink) 
Very encouraged by your excitement in the test you did, good stuff
Thanks for any help!
Ken


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



ashamutt said:


> I find this happening with 100% cotton as well.... but with the 50/50 maybe it is just hanes...???
> My hanes heavyweight 50/50 has fiber lift...but my jerzees 50/50 has none!
> weird!huh?


The brand of the shirt makes a huge difference. When I tested +/- 6 shirts in 5050 (50%cotton/50% poly) to find the one that faded the least with Ironall light and Durabrite, the results were all over the place. 

I ordered the 100%C counter part of each shirt, and they were all over in results as well. I just picked the best of the best, and started washing to see who held up the best. Even with our fadey friend Ironall for light, the Jerzees HW 5050 did not fade. This was before we had JPSS to use.

I am totally happy with the finish, the color retention, and the long term performance after repeated washing of my Jerzees HW 5050's. I just wish the fabric was thicker. They feel too flimsy to me, but they are the best in every other important way. 

For color and fabric performance, my top choice is Jerzees HW5050. But I feel the Gildans is a bit more quality fabricwise, and go with that bc I don't think folks will appreciate Jerzees performance more than they'll appreciate the fabric of the Gildan's over the Jerzees.

It's not a surprise to find one brand of 5050 performing better in some way than another brand of 5050. That's the same thing I've seen here. Even with the windows on one 100 cotton shirt next to the other. 

For anyone wondering if wash tests are worth it:
That's one reason I am convinced it's best to buy the samples, press the shirts, and wash test them yourself. Nothing can replace seeing, feeling and evaluating the product you're about to put your name on.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



printpuller said:


> Kelly,
> I am just getting into this and when I read your post I was thrilled! I'm kind of groping along trying not to make costly mistakes! Thanks. You really answered a lot of scary questions for me.


You're welcome. Let's just make sure the information helps you, and doesn't hinder you, because so far, Jetprosofstretch is the only paper working with dye, and I only tested one brand of dye ink.



printpuller said:


> So let me get this straight. I need to use JPSS (transfer paper?) and a dye ink?


If you have a choice, I would suggest you purchase pigment ink. If you choose pigment ink, you can choose any paper you wish to use, now or in the future.

I will only use Jetprosofstretch at this time. But if they develope a better paper in the future, it may require pigment ink, so setting up with pigment ink now ensures you have to best choice of options later on. 

Also, if you want to make dark shirts, all the papers for dark shirts at this time must use pigment ink. 

Okay, that said, let's go to using Dye ink with Jetprosofstretch. 

What this test is showing is that Jetprosofstretch seems to have a special quality about it that allows it to hold dye ink without washing out, even in bleach. I used regular Canon OEM ink. It did not wash out. Other folks have used Epson Claria OEM ink and it did not wash out. If you are going to use a different dye ink, you will be the one to test it out. 




printpuller said:


> I have an Epson 1280 (used) with a bulk delivery system so is there an ink that will work in it just as well as the Cannon?


I can't say what other dye inks would work as well as the Canon did. I only tested the Canon ink. If anyone tries a different ink, they will be the tester of that ink and JPSS.

If you don't have ink now, I would suggest going with the pigment ink. 

This discovery is important because some folks already have dye printers and dye ink. If they only use JPSS, and no other kind of transfer papers, it could save them from having to buy another printer. 

Also, some of Epson's printers are coming out with the Claria dye ink, but that ink is a "water resistant dye", so if someone has that printer, they may not need to purge ink or switch to pigment ink. 

Most dye inks are not water resistant. Most dye inks are water soluable (breakdown in water - that is why they wash out in the laundry.) My canon ink is water soluable. So this is a good test because if other folks have dye ink and they want to try their own ink, it may actually work out great.



printpuller said:


> Also, can you let me know where you get your products? (Paper, ink)


For JPSS: When my supply is up, I will re-buy at tshirtsupplies.com. There are other suppliers, but from what I've seen, tshirtsupplies.com has the best pricing when I compare.

I haven't selected my ink yet, and if you haven't either - we're in the same boat. I'll do a search on my printer model and bulk ink - here on the forum - and google - when the time comes to purchase that. But it will be pigment ink so I have the most options for using paper.



printepuller said:


> Very encouraged by your excitement in the test you did, good stuff
> Thanks for any help!
> Ken


You're welcome, that's nice to hear. Have a great day and good luck with whichever way you decide to purchase.


----------



## printpuller

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I have heard that pigment is the way to go and I have yet to buy any inks. 
I picked up the epson used as part of a package deal with a press I purchased but can't get it to print properly so for now I may just buy a new C88 rather than wasting time "tweaking". So it looks like a C88, bulk delivery, with pigmented ink. 
So were you saying that JPSS isn't for pigmented but rather for dye?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



printpuller said:


> I have heard that pigment is the way to go and Ihave yet to buy any inks. I got the epson used as part of a package deal with a press I purchased but can't get it to print properly


If it sat for a while, the nozzles could be clogged. Do you want some posts folks have written to try to fix that?



printerpuller said:


> si for now I may just buy a new C88 rather than wasting time "tweaking". So it looks like a C88 bulk delivery with pigmented ink.


The c88's are being replaced by the c120's. I see folks still trying to find c88's because they say there are the most bulk systems for the c88s still. They are out there still, I just saw epson.com still carrying them



printpuller said:


> So were you saying that JPSS isn't for pigmented but rather for dye?


Noooo, don't let that rumor get started.  JPSS is for both pigment, as well as 'some' dyes. I still resist saying dyes, as in all dyes, because I only tested the one. But JPSS is terrific with pigment ink. The same as Canon dye in my tests.  The second shirt I posted in this thread (car deal connection) is a shirt printed with Durabrite oem pigment ink, and had been bleached a number of times, including again today.

JSPP is just a great paper. Have a good one, let me know if you want some links to try to clear the nozzles if you think that's the trouble with the 1280. The 1280 is nice bc it's a large format printer.


----------



## Amber & Joey

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

i read earlier that it is best to use a pigment ink over dye ink...because of fading..and etc...i was convinced i had to buy a new printer...but now after reading this im not sure...is there really that big of a diffrence in the two i


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hi Amber & Joey,

and :welcome:.

The main factor to consider is that Pigment ink will work with all other transfer papers, but a Dye ink will fade with other papers. JPSS is a special paper, as we see from this test. I've washed this shirt 2 or 3 more times in 1 cup of Bleach each time, still going strong. That wouldn't happen with dye ink and Ironall paper. Dye would be fading if I used Ironall. 

So, what it really comes down to is for the dye printer owner, if you are going to use only JPSS for light shirts, you may be able to use your printer after all. It's worth getting a sample pack from tshirtsupplies.com for 1 penny, and printing them up and washing them to see if they hold up as well as these are. I am big believer in testing your chosen products before buying a supply bc different shirts and inks may have a different reaction. I hope this helps and not confuse more. 

Pigment = widest selection on transfer papers as pigment will work with all.
Dye ink = Jetprosofstretch paper users, other papers fade with dye. 

Okay, welcome again, and have a great night. Kelly


----------



## Amber & Joey

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

thanks for your information...i have a lexmark 2300 all in one...i thought it would be perfect for this but i think im going to go with a printer that uses pigment ink instead of the dye...thanks again for your info...


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Amber & Joey Hi you may want to check I do know that lexmark are using pigment ink you may want to check and see if your uses pigment could save some money.


----------



## Amber & Joey

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

thank you letting me know that....could you tell me how i can find this out?


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I went to there web site and look for the ink but not all of there ink is pigment so check there site it may help.


----------



## Amber & Joey

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

ok thanks again


----------



## printpuller

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I have tried EVERYTHING to get this 1280 to print. Cleaners that I ordered from fixyourownprinter, I've ran all the suggested head cleaning cycles, nozzle checks, I get ink through them onto a paper towel when I flush cleaner into the print head via the cartridge tabs but barely anything onto the paper when I try to print.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hey Ken, 

Will the info in this link help you at all? http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t41493.html#post245764. Ken, does it print onto regular paper?
Kelly


----------



## desireej

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I tried Jetprosofstretch for the first time this week and I had the same results I love the paper.


----------



## printpuller

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Hey Ken,
> 
> Will the info in this link help you at all? http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t41493.html#post245764. Ken, does it print onto regular paper?
> Kelly


Thanks Kelly.
I checked the link and there really isn't anything I haven't tried (recommended things) 
I am testing on regular paper during a nozzle/head cleaning test. 
I have two and one at least does about 75% quality through the black using OEM cartridges the other is connected to a CIS and I get nothing.   
I don't know


----------



## hhc

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Very interesting thread! What would us newbies do without you all!?

I know Chromablast is supposed to have superior staying power as far as heat transfers go - is this in part due to using the Chromablast paper with the inks? 

Does anyone know if JPSS paper would work better than the Chromablast paper with Chromablast inks (when printed from an Epson Stylus Pro 4880 inkjet printer?) How about Sawgrass' subli-trans dye sub inks?

Thanks for all the help! 

(I posted this on another thread but wanted to ask here too as this thread seems a lot more active - sorry, don't mean to spam!!)


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I have used sud dye ink with jpss with no problems with it and I think color is better.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



hhc said:


> Very interesting thread! What would us newbies do without you all!?
> 
> I know Chromablast is supposed to have superior staying power as far as heat transfers go - is this in part due to using the Chromablast paper with the inks?
> 
> Does anyone know if JPSS paper would work better than the Chromablast paper with Chromablast inks (when printed from an Epson Stylus Pro 4880 inkjet printer?) How about Sawgrass' subli-trans dye sub inks?
> 
> Thanks for all the help!
> 
> (I posted this on another thread but wanted to ask here too as this thread seems a lot more active - sorry, don't mean to spam!!)


 
JPSS samples can be found at tshirtsupplies.com for 1 penny for a 3 pk. Shipping is low. For less than $7, someone with the right inks can test it. 

For those who use those inks though - what would be the advantage of using JPSS? The reason for those inks is to use cotton shirts, but get the advantage of no hand or window, like in dye sub.

JPSS will leave a window if not trimmed.


----------



## gmille39

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



mrdavid said:


> Earl yes it will I use 100 percent cotton and print with I use sublimation dyes with JPSS and Cotton and the color is sweet I will be starting new post on this


I'm looking to get into Sublimation. JPSS has sublimation paper?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



gmille39 said:


> I'm looking to get into Sublimation. JPSS has sublimation paper?


No, folks are using inkjet heat transfer JPSS with dye sub ink, just experimenting, playing around. 

That's one thing I love about this place, tho ----> "Coloring outside the lines."


----------



## gmille39

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> No, folks are using inkjet heat transfer JPSS with dye sub ink, just experimenting, playing around.
> 
> That's one thing I love about this place, tho ----> "Coloring outside the lines."


I'm not sure why you would do that. I thought one advantage to dye sub is that it does not lay a coating of paper onto the garment.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



gmille39 said:


> I'm not sure why you would do that. I thought one advantage to dye sub is that it does not lay a coating of paper onto the garment.


Yeah... I know, that's what I said right before your post. I don't understand what any benefit would be to someone who has dye sub ink... they've paid the $$ to get rid of the window and the hand... 

Do that, JPSS and dye sub, and your back to a hand and needing to trim the paper. JPSS works great with pigment and .. yeah... some dye inks. So I don't know why someone would do it, but I still like that folks try things out.


----------



## mrstakeebie

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Would using an iron with jssp cause it to fade more. I know that this paper says for heat press only but what would happen if an iron was used?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



mrstakeebie said:


> Would using an iron with jssp cause it to fade more. I know that this paper says for heat press only but what would happen if an iron was used?


 
I wonder the same thing myself, not so much if it will fade, but will the product adhere properly. I posted a thread on the Q, and while there's been 67 views on the question, there haven't been any responses. Here's the link in case you want to suscbribe to it, and wait to see if anyone answers if they are actually trying out hand ironing the JPSS and if yes, what kind of results...

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t49101.html#post289446


----------



## leisure

*Re: t-shirtsupplies.com (JPSS supplier) is re-launching website w/newletter and more...*



treadhead said:


> Awesome news!!
> 
> Thanks for the info Kelly... I just picked up an Epson 1400 printer (I have a wonderful wife!!!  ) and want to start using the wide format JPSS where possible.


Hi I had ask a question the other day but no one has answered it maybe you can .I have the epson stylus CX5000 which has the pigment ink and i'm printing on the JPSS but my transfers come out dull in color the paper setting i'm using is plain white with text/photo there isn't an option for transfer paper so do you know which media type is better to get bright colors in the transfer.Thank you for the help.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*Re: t-shirtsupplies.com (JPSS supplier) is re-launching website w/newletter and more...*

Brenda, JPSS has a "faded" look when printed but presses up vibrantly. I used to use Ironall for lights and it printed with vibrant colors, and when I pressed, it looked the same. When I switched to JPSS, I noticed after I printed it, it looked dull. I hoped the transfer wouldn't appear dull as well, but when I pressed it, it looked great, vibrant colors, no problem.

With transfer papers, less ink is better, too much ink is not good. Sometimes adjusting the contrast and bright, which is what I do when I want the blacks and deep colors to have a better punch, is all you need to do in printer preferences, while staying with text/photo settings.



Hiya John, you're welcome. Good luck with the new printer.


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Kelly (or anyone) have you tested on 100% polyester?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



wormil said:


> Kelly (or anyone) have you tested on 100% polyester?


 
No. Not me. I'm curious tho, why are you wondering about this?

You know, on Coastal's site it says this:

_"JET-PRO SofStretch Heat Transfer Paper_ is a new product using the newest technology. It was created to combine the look and feel of screen printing with the ease of desktop printing.

The new product has excellent hand for cotton, *poly* and blends. "


Reading that statement as written, it actually lists poly seperately.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

So many different JPSS posts I get lost in all of it.

Ok...got some tea stains on a 50/50 tee and just cant get them out. The stains were on my orig. JPSS test shirt with HP dye based inks. Initial wash tests were fine in cold and warm with just minimal fade. In trying hot water and bleach fighting the tea stain the fade is much more apparent. I think I am on about the 12th wash and dry cycle.

I also washed the new C-120 printed transfer with Durabrite pigment ink in the same hot water, bleach load. Well the transfer is fine but an interesting thing happened. The color shift I had when initially printed (gray turning a greenish yellow ) is returning to a normal gray tone.
Is this normally what happens with this ink?


----------



## leisure

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> No. Not me. I'm curious tho, why are you wondering about this?
> 
> You know, on Coastal's site it says this:
> 
> _"JET-PRO SofStretch Heat Transfer Paper_ is a new product using the newest technology. It was created to combine the look and feel of screen printing with the ease of desktop printing.
> 
> The new product has excellent hand for cotton, *poly* and blends. "
> 
> 
> Reading that statement as written, it actually lists poly seperately.


Hi, 
you replied earlier to a thread where I asked the question about the correct media setting for the epson stylus cx5000 I'm using plain white paper and text/ photo and my color is dull when pressed using pigment ink and JPSS, but for some reason the thread was removed per an email from Rodney would you mind replying again.Thanks


----------



## ivancuriel

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



MotoskinGraphix said:


> So many different JPSS posts I get lost in all of it.
> 
> Ok...got some tea stains on a 50/50 tee and just cant get them out. The stains were on my orig. JPSS test shirt with HP dye based inks. Initial wash tests were fine in cold and warm with just minimal fade. In trying hot water and bleach fighting the tea stain the fade is much more apparent. I think I am on about the 12th wash and dry cycle.
> 
> I also washed the new C-120 printed transfer with Durabrite pigment ink in the same hot water, bleach load. Well the transfer is fine but an interesting thing happened. The color shift I had when initially printed (gray turning a greenish yellow ) is returning to a normal gray tone.
> Is this normally what happens with this ink?


I have read in another post a few months back that washing pigment inks that had color changing issues went back to its correct color. I think the post was about heat transfer inks, and how they're so much better than printing with regular pigment, so you dont have to tell your customers that after a few washes the colors go back to normal. It was something along those lines.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I read the post as well but it creates a problem with the durabrite inks or any inks that shift.

Most inkjet transfer folks that used durabrite had custom color settings to get around the gray color shift. It was something like -20Y +5M +5C. 

If the color shifts back where does that leave you in the actual printing? Do you alter the color settings or leave them alone?

A couple other questions for quick ref.

1. What format do I save the image in for best results?
2. What settings for paper and print on a c-120 with durabrite and JPSS?
3. What color profile should I be designing with, RGB, CMYK Pantone etc?
4. If I am using texture fills in Corel the same basic questions.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



leisure said:


> Hi,
> you replied earlier to a thread where I asked the question about the correct media setting for the epson stylus cx5000 I'm using plain white paper and text/ photo and my color is dull when pressed using pigment ink and JPSS, but for some reason the thread was removed per an email from Rodney would you mind replying again.Thanks


 
Yes, I was wondering who else was in that thread as we had dialog going. The post was posted to early in advance of the event date, that's why it is gone for now. 

The answer I wrote was that I used to use Ironall for lights, and it printed very vibrantly, and pressed the same. 

When I moved over to JPSS, I noticed it looked dull and lacked vibrancy, and it worsened a bit as it dried. I worried the transfer would press "dull". It didn't.

When I pressed the JPSS, even tho it looked dull on paper, it pressed just fine. Vibrant and full of color.

Too much ink put on transfer papers is not good, less is better. Sometimes I will adjust the contrast and bright to deepen the black and darker tones - in the printer preference settings. This will let you get a little more punch out of the image and colors, while leaving the settings on plain paper, text/photo settings.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Rodney

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



> Yes, I was wondering who else was in that thread as we had dialog going.


I've moved those posts to this thread (you can see them above )


----------



## ivancuriel

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



MotoskinGraphix said:


> I read the post as well but it creates a problem with the durabrite inks or any inks that shift.
> 
> Most inkjet transfer folks that used durabrite had custom color settings to get around the gray color shift. It was something like -20Y +5M +5C.
> 
> If the color shifts back where does that leave you in the actual printing? Do you alter the color settings or leave them alone?
> 
> A couple other questions for quick ref.
> 
> 1. What format do I save the image in for best results?
> 2. What settings for paper and print on a c-120 with durabrite and JPSS?
> 3. What color profile should I be designing with, RGB, CMYK Pantone etc?
> 4. If I am using texture fills in Corel the same basic questions.



I dont print transfers out with pigment so I cant really help with these questions. Sorry  maybe someone else could.

As for saving the image, I always save mine as a bitmap, and that works well for me. and when it comes to printing, I always choose photo glossy paper as my profile, and i select best photo. My prints come out great when i select those options. I do nothing else to my settings. I hope this helps.


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> No. Not me. I'm curious tho, why are you wondering about this?


I have a small order for polyester cheer shorts coming up and I'm considering between the jpss if it turns out, ordering a small number of transfers or maybe even vinyl. I've printed on cotton, poly/cotton, nylon, leather, plastic but never polyester so I'm not sure what to expect.


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Rick if you can find some one to print for you,or if you have sud ink will work with that they will out last the shorts.


----------



## tdeals

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Kelly - 

In your dye-based print tests on the JPSS paper, are you using a Canon PIXMA model specifically with the Canon OEM ChromaLife 100 inks?

AB


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



mrdavid said:


> Rick if you can find some one to print for you,or if you have sud ink will work with that they will out last the shorts.


Thanks Dave. I think there are less than a dozen shorts and two different designs (women's shorts with butt print and men's shorts with leg print) so you can see why I'm avoiding plastisol, plus the shorts are for a family reunion so I don't think it's a big deal if they don't last for years. 

I'm doing a much larger order for the guy and he wants a few things for an upcoming reunion. No problem, I just need to see what will be a good combination of economical and durable.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



AdriaticBlue said:


> Kelly -
> 
> In your dye-based print tests on the JPSS paper, are you using a Canon PIXMA model specifically with the Canon OEM ChromaLife 100 inks?
> 
> AB


Hi Ms. Blue, I pm'd you, but am going to post here in case someone has the same Q.

I use whatever ink is OEM to the Canon Pixma ip4000. I have a few carts here, and the black part number is BCI-3eBK for one of them, and BCI-6BK for the other black. The magenta is BCI-6M, the yellow is BCI-6Y. I don't have a cyan to look at, but I'm guessing, BCI-6C. 

I don't see ChromaLife 100 anywhere on the cart, and don't remember seeing it on the packaging, but I wasn't looking for it either. The inks above produced that fade free shirt in the posts. Hope this helps. 


David, sorry to read in your posts that the HP dyes are showing fade in the wash. I think that the shirt can have an affect on how well the product holds the color, whatever the paper. 

It rang true when I used Ironall for lights, so since you are having fade, and I didn't, I'd like to ask what shirt you pressed on that is fading. It's either that the HP dye doesn't work with JPSS, or the shirt. Maybe I will send you one of my shirts, if you don't have a Jerzees HW 50/50 (29) by you. But then again, I am also bleaching the Hanes Beefy Tee 100 cotton, and the Gildan's Ultra Blend 5050, and they are not fading either. 

Do you have any of the shirts I mentioned, especially the Jerzees? I am wondering if you'd be willing to try to HP inks on one of the same shirts I use? Thanks.


----------



## tdeals

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thanks Kelly!


----------



## dynamicdesynz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hi all,just wanted to know what was the average price was when buying JPSS 11X17 100 pk. I just ordered on Saturday and it was only $120.00. This surprised me because most companies sell the $50 pk for $80.00. Is this a good price. They also had 100 8.5X11 for $60.00, so I bought those too. They sell in bulk so this seems like a good deal.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Tshirtsupplies.com has the 100 pack of 8.5x11 for $50. Folks who bought the 11x17 from them said the price for the bigger size is double the 8.5x11 size. That would make the 11x17, 100 pack, $100. Contact tshirtsupplies.com for their pricing on it. Pretty soon, you will see changes on the site that will make ordering easier than it is now. For now, you have to contact them for the larger size paper. Hope this helps.

Transfer Paper - Transfer Papers for Ink Jet - JET-PRO SofStretch - JET-PRO® SofStretch™ 8.5" x 11" (100 Sheet Pack) (Powered by CubeCart)


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

The HP dye ink test shirt is a 50/50 Gilden. The Epson durabrite test shirt is a cotton Anvil. Kind of amazed that the color shift is shifting back after washing. Some strange ink in this c-120, dont know whether to print for the shift or the shift back?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

For Durabrite ink, Melissa/AngelicEndevors said that her colors shifted back after the wash. She was working with people's personal photos, so the folks would be able to see the colors were off, but the problem was, how do you sell "that" to a customer. "The colors are wrong for now, but after you wash it, it will return to normal." Melissa picked up those HT pigment refill carts and hasn't looked back since. She loves them.

If you print for the shift, the colors will still change after the wash, wouldn't you think? Regardless of what you print initially, the colors are changing post wash, a customer may note that.


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I tested the jpss, printed on my Canon MP210, on 100% light blue polyester. The halo left from trimming shows up plainly on the polyester where it didn't on the cotton. The transfer didn't quite peel as easily on the poly as it did on the cotton but I forgot to reset my pressure on the thinner poly so maybe using less pressure had something to do with it. Tonight I'll wash it and see how it goes.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Rick, you can trim right down to the design... are you raising the imprint area above the seams?


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> For Durabrite ink, Melissa/AngelicEndevors said that her colors shifted back after the wash. She was working with people's personal photos, so the folks would be able to see the colors were off, but the problem was, how do you sell "that" to a customer. "The colors are wrong for now, but after you wash it, it will return to normal." Melissa picked up those HT pigment refill carts and hasn't looked back since. She loves them.
> 
> If you print for the shift, the colors will still change after the wash, wouldn't you think? Regardless of what you print initially, the colors are changing post wash, a customer may note that.


Yeah...that is the rub isnt it. If you reduce the yellow what is the image going to look like in a couple washes? I am going to be doing custom car pics so color is important.

I will probably get new inks eventually but for a large format printer.


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Rick, you can trim right down to the design... are you raising the imprint area above the seams?


I know, but I wanted to know how much the background would show up. On the cotton it was all but invisible.

After one washing, the jpss looks very good on both the polyester and cotton, almost no detectable fade. But I don't torture my samples just throw them in with my regular wash. The color seems a smidgen more vibrant on the cotton.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Ok, experimenting. Thank you for the update, it's always great to know what a product will or won't do, can and can't do... how's the stretch on the poly? Can you post some pics? How the stretch after washing? Thanks, Rick.


----------



## wormil

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I'll try and post some pictures. The stretch is fine on the poly. I gave it a good stretch after drying, almost doubling it's size and it looks fine. When you really stretch it out, say 1.5x or larger, you can see gaps where the fibers start to separate but it snaps back and looks fine. No one should be stretching their fabric that much during normal wear.

A little off topic but the Jet II from Imprintables has held up extremely well. I don't know how many washes, maybe ten, but the colors are still vibrant. Now those were printed on my Epson before it died using Durabrite ink. The Jet Premium from Imprintables continues to fade and looks pretty bad, just from looking you might think they were several years old instead of several months old. I might try some Jet II through my Canon and see how they hold up.


----------



## glhmbr

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hi everyone, I am verrrryy new to this t-shirt business so any and all info will be greatly appericaiate. I have been reading alot about this JPSS but as my typical self lose track as to what I read where. Please someone give me some background on the JPSS as to what it prints best on.
glhmbr


----------



## treadhead

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



glhmbr said:


> Hi everyone, I am verrrryy new to this t-shirt business so any and all info will be greatly appericaiate. I have been reading alot about this JPSS but as my typical self lose track as to what I read where. Please someone give me some background on the JPSS as to what it prints best on.
> glhmbr


It prints best on white and light garments (100% cotton or 50/50 blends). I believe it also works on 100% poly but I haven't tried it yet.
However, on some light garments you need to trim very close to the design to remove / minimize the polymer window in the unprinted area.


----------



## glhmbr

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thanks John, any suggestion for printing on dark shirts?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



glhmbr said:


> Thanks John, any suggestion for printing on dark shirts?


I'm not John but you know JPSS is for lights. Trying to keep this thread on topic tho, so I'll give you some names/search terms to look up:

"opaque papers" "papers for darks" - those are heat transfer papers that folks use with dark shirts. Like Ironall Dark, Jet Wear. 

"plastisols" "plastisol transfers" - another great option for darks.

"vinyl" "shirt vinyl" - used with a cutter/plotter, again, a great option for dark shirt.

and then there is screen printing and dtg, also able to produce dark shirts.

And here is a thread for you to review, good info there too:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/general-t-shirt-selling-discussion/t48532.html


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

The usual disclaimer, , re-printed with permission: 


haystees said:


> It looks like you are rather versed in this, and here is what I gathered from yours, and others' posts.
> 
> You can use Dye inks (with testing, of course) for designs with JPSS paper. I have an Epson 1280 printer and looking at giving myself more options rather than screenprint/vinyl/plastisol (haven't used it yet but plan on it, the wait time is the biggest killer here).
> 
> I should be able to run images through the 1280 without switching inks onto JPSS paper and be fine for transfers? Several designs/logos I've ran into contain 5-6-7-8 colors and this is rather hard to deal with on a small screenprint/vinyl scale
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Joseph





girlzndollz said:


> Hi Joseph,
> 
> You said it all perfectly, it should be fine *with testing, of course*.
> 
> The shirt I tested was a Jerzees HW 50/50, with Canon regular photographic dye ink. The dye in the 1280 is also regular photographic dye ink. I bleached that shirt over a dozen times and washed it with bleach over half a dozen times out of that 12 washes, no color loss.
> 
> If your results are less than stellar, I would try out a couple of different brands of shirts. The shirts themselves can affect colorfastness, but overall, JPSS is showing colorfastness with a variety of inks on a variety of shirt brands/blends.
> 
> It's still wise to test your particular combination before going to market with it, just like you said. But past success is there.
> 
> PS: I'd like to post our pm's in the thread for JPSS if you don't mind -- in case someone else would like to add to my post, or someone has the same Q as you, is that okay with you? Thanks alot.
> __________________
> Best regards, Kelly


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

The next ones, and thank you again, Joseph! 


haystees said:


> Thanks for the heads up. I'll order some JPSS ASAP! I have some orders in which people want small logos on polos, etc, and multi-colors. I have a 4-color screenprint, and multi layered vinyl sucks . Thanks! I have no problem with you posting anything in our PM's.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Joseph





girlzndollz said:


> Haha, that's too bad to hear about the vinyl, I just picked up a cutter and planned to do layered vinyl!!
> 
> For the polos, just watch out for the fabric of the polo, okay? The pique weave may not work well or look good with a heat transfer. Jersey knits will work, piques you may want to test.
> 
> You can use a piece of uncorrogated cardboard or a mouse pad cut to size in the pocket to raise it above the seams for a nice even press. Lou/Badalou sells a premade kit of mousepad material for this use. I just cut the one I had here for my use. It is the right material for heat, not all are, just test it.
> 
> Let me give you a link to where I'll post this so I don't have to copy/paste, okay?
> 
> Good luck to you, Joseph, and welcome to the forums.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hi Joseph,

Here is a link to a few threads that may be of interest:

One on heat pressing steps: what and why:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39007.html#post229735

One on polos and pique fabric:
https://www.t-shirtforums.com/wholesale-t-shirts/t14653.html#post93542

Good luck to you.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I got my Epson 1400 up and running with the dye based Claria inks which are water resistent. Pressed a Gilden 50/50 with JPSS, same test design I used with the OEM HP dye inks and the Durabrite Epson pigment inks. Wore the shirt today in the Texas sun and the red ink bled as the shirt got wet. Looks like I am going to have to order the HT inks for the C-120 and just use the 1400 for doing tranps, for screenprinting.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Dang, David, I am so sorry to heat that. You keep having bleeding issues. Didn't you post about them before?? Is that the Gildan's Ultra Blend shirt? That's the shirt I use.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Dang, David, I am so sorry to heat that. You keep having bleeding issues. Didn't you post about them before?? Is that the Gildan's Ultra Blend shirt? That's the shirt I use.


Yeah its the ultra blend 50/50 and the red ink bled. I am sure it will wash out but the only ink that hasnt bled yet is the Durabrite. I am gonna try the HT apparel inks with the C-120. I might actually purchase another 1400 and get the HT inks for it as well. This 1400 is for transp. and posters, photos etc...prints very nice.


----------



## HT67

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I've been corresponding a bit with GirlzNDollz over JPSS.

I followed her instructions, 375 for 30sec, and also adjusted my Y to -20, and C and M to +5.

I am using a C120 with regular stock Pigment ink.

I noticed some "sticky" around the image, but realized this was due to me not cutting out the image off the JPSS paper. I cut it out, and this eliminated the "shadow" of sorts. My images (even one with yellow) have come out looking great, and pressed really nice! Haven't done a wash yet, we'll see how that turns out!

One thing I DO have a question about is how to cut these out with equipment. I have a Stika 15" cutter, and have access to a Cricut cutter. It's a small, personal use type cutter, but it's application being mainly for small objects, may make it a bit easier to run small images (small scale, nothing BIG, just maybe 5-20 images) through it. Any ideas?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Hi Joseph, here are a few threads for you, that may help. I don't have that cutter, but some folks in these threads do. 

Stika:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t38606.html#post226701
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t47297.html#post280333
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t4232.html#post24680

There are more threads on Stika and transfer paper. If you want to see them, just search the term "stika transfer paper"... they'll come up for you. :0

Oh, and I ran across this thread, I wonder if you relate to anything in here:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t50384.html#post297161


----------



## eAZie

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> Okay, someone asked me to post a picture of a pigment ink shirt with JPSS that has been washed in bleach.. so here is it. This shirt is a Gildan's 50/50 Ultra Blend.
> 
> I do not have the original press picture, as I wasn't planning ahead for this particular test, but I can easily press a new one and post a freshly pressed picture.
> 
> This picture is of the shirt after at least 10 washes in warm water, high heat dryer, and at least 7 times washed with One Cup of Bleach.


hey kelly, when you printed this shirt, how much weeding did you do around the lettering? just curious


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



eAZie said:


> hey kelly, when you printed this shirt, how much weeding did you do around the lettering? just curious


For the Virgo shirt, I didn't cut around the design at all, it has a big old box around it.

For the Car Deal Connection shirt, I trimmed close to the outside of the entire image, but I did not cut around the lettering itself at all. (I think this is the shirt you were refering to but I am not sure at all.)

Either way, that covers both shirts.  If you get a chance, drop a note on my visitor message broad, eAZie, and let me know how it all is going for you. Good luck to you.


----------



## bulldog1

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> No, folks are using inkjet heat transfer JPSS with dye sub ink, just experimenting, playing around.
> 
> That's one thing I love about this place, tho ----> "Coloring outside the lines."


Hi Kelly, I'm going through some old posts doing research and I wanted to ask if I used JPSS with sublimation inks, would the shirt then have to be 100% poly? Could I press 100% C or 50/50 blend?


----------



## bulldog1

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



Girlzndollz said:


> No, folks are using inkjet heat transfer JPSS with dye sub ink, just experimenting, playing around.
> 
> That's one thing I love about this place, tho ----> "Coloring outside the lines."


Hi Kelly, I was doing some research, reading through some older posts and I wanted to ask if someone could use sublimation ink on JPSS and press to a 100% cotton or 50/50 blended white T? 

Perhaps the benefit of using dye sub ink would be a deeper, more vibrant, more wash-resistant color than a pigment based ink but only if it could be pressed to a cheaper shirt. I'm trying to get away from 100% poly shirts.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



mrdavid said:


> ... I use 100 percent cotton and print with I use sublimation dyes with JPSS and Cotton and the color is sweet I will be starting new post on this


 
Hi Bulldog, I haven't experimented with this, but Mrdavid has. He is really helpful. If you ask him about it, he'll tell you what he's been up to with this. I think I remember him saying he liked the color better with dye sub ink than pigment... (?).

If there is no difference, tho, it would be silly to use JPSS with the more expensive dye sub ink.

Once you move to JPSS instead of dye sub paper, you will have the polymer window to deal with... good luck to you.. Kelly


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

HI yes I did use dye sub ink and think the color was better at least to me it was. and I did use 100 percent cotton with no problems just the cost is what you need to make up for. I just add in the cost and told every one that it was dye sub ink never had one come back. but then I went back to pigment ink people did not want to spend extra dollars for it so I stopped.


----------



## maXmood

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

that's a rich thread i came a cross and went through all the posts. now i got some doubts to clear.

1) what are the other techniques i can use with transfer papers? e.g. can i do over-size (having the design printed on the full shirt) using them papers?

2)can i use 2 transfer papers to create a layered design (one transfer above the other)?

3) is it possible to elimenate the window if i had a gradient print? how?

4) if i had a splatter design, how can i get rid of the window? i know it will be a time consuming to cut all the drops and go through the edges.

i'll start a thread in the other section on what i need to start running.

i'd like to thank everyone who posted in this thread with a usefull info/tip, and a special thanks to Kelly for getting me motivated into moving my butt and start working..

-maX


----------



## shirt4shirt

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

yeah, i was wondering the same as max in question 2. I think it would create a great effect.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



maXmood said:


> that's a rich thread i came a cross and went through all the posts. now i got some doubts to clear.
> 
> 1) what are the other techniques i can use with transfer papers? e.g. can i do over-size (having the design printed on the full shirt) using them papers?


There are folks using the 11x17 JPSS and other transfer papers for larger prints.



> 2)can i use 2 transfer papers to create a layered design (one transfer above the other)?


I know this has been asked, not sure still what the verdict is on this. I haven't tried it, but can see it working, if the dwell times are worked out right. 

A quick experiment could easily answer this one, tho. If you've tried it since posting, will you let us know how it went and what you did with it?



> 3) is it possible to elimenate the window if i had a gradient print? how?
> 
> 4) if i had a splatter design, how can i get rid of the window? i know it will be a time consuming to cut all the drops and go through the edges.


With inkjet heat transfer paper, you have to cut away the extra window by hand or with a cutter to get rid of it.

There is a newer paper called Imageclip for Inkjet. If you look that up, you'll see the test thread for it by Luis/lnfortun. 

It requires an inkjet printer and a laser printer to prepare both pieces involved in the process. A cheaper black and white laser printer will do that job.

With that paper, you can transfer just the ink without the polymer. The laser printed piece of paper binds with the inkjet piece of transfer paper, and "blocks" the polymer from transferring to the shirt. 

That may help you get the results you want. 



> i'd like to thank everyone who posted in this thread with a usefull info/tip, and a special thanks to Kelly for getting me motivated into moving my butt and start working..
> 
> -maX


lol... you're welcome. Sorry I didn't see this post earlier, and for the delay in any response to the Q. 

Imageclip for Inkjet is pretty new, so that actually allowed for a more promising answer.


----------



## russianlul

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

HELLO! How Long are you pressing these shirts with the canon dye and the 50/50s with jpss

Thanks for everyones advice


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



russianlul said:


> HELLO! How Long are you pressing these shirts with the canon dye and the 50/50s with jpss
> 
> Thanks for everyones advice


 
I press the Canon and Durabrite ink the same way:
375*F for 30 seconds. =)


----------



## silliejo

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Wow, the JPSS paper looks great, i'm definitely going to try that first when if i get my setup soon.

Thanks for the pics OP.


----------



## belancergolf7

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

hello,
I have been using ironall and decided to try out jpss. I just bought a bunch of blank shirts. Dark and light. If I were to buy jpss, is there anything I need to know before purchasing? I am using an hp printer with standard hp ink cartridges. (black, magenta,light blue, dark blue,etc) The shirts I purchased are 100% cotton and of course I will be using a heat press to press my shirts. I know jpss works great on lights...what about darks?

thanks for everyone's help in advance.


----------



## belancergolf7

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

by the way, what kind of inks would those be considered that I am using with my hp printer. Sry im a newbie! =)


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



belancergolf7 said:


> by the way, what kind of inks would those be considered that I am using with my hp printer. Sry im a newbie! =)


 
For this question: How to find out what kind of ink your HP printer uses, try this link. There are instructions on how to look your carts up on the HP site, and determine which ink your carts are, pigment or dye.

If you need any help, just pop a question into that thread, I'll try to help you out. =)

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/printers-inks-inkjet-laser-transfers/t64394.html


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



belancergolf7 said:


> hello,
> I have been using ironall and decided to try out jpss. I just bought a bunch of blank shirts. Dark and light. If I were to buy jpss, is there anything I need to know before purchasing? I am using an hp printer with standard hp ink cartridges. (black, magenta,light blue, dark blue,etc) The shirts I purchased are 100% cotton and of course I will be using a heat press to press my shirts. I know jpss works great on lights...what about darks?
> 
> thanks for everyone's help in advance.


JPSS is a paper for white/light shirts. The color of the shirt will come thru the colors in the design, depending on the shirt color and design colors.

Folks have experimented with JPSS on dark shirts and posted pictures on the forum. They've done things like black on charcoal shirts, just plain JPSS with no ink, run thru a cutter and then transferred. If you search "JPSS dark shirt" you may bring around some of those threads. Also try "JPSS pictures" because most people mention they are posting pictures when they - you know - post pictures! 

The pics in this thread show the results of using JPSS with pigment ink as well as regular dye ink. Alot of folks have success with HP dye inks as well. 

The best thing to do is to test your product combinations. Just changing *the shirt* can yield different results with the same paper and ink. 

Best of luck to you. Don't worry about being new, we were all new once... and eventually, we get old. So nothing wrong with being new!


----------



## belancergolf7

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thank a lot for the info.

I just went on the hp link you gave me and I found out that my hp inks are dye based. Gosh I have been trying to figure this out for the longest time..thanks so much! =)

Yea I do know that jpss is for lights. I've heard a lot of good stuff about jpss. From what I hear it is better than ironall which I never thought anything could be better than ironall. ha. I was a about to order some from new milford photo but I want to make sure I'm buying something that is good stuff. Do you recommend it?


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Well, honestly, I recommend the JPSS more than I recommend buying from New Milford Photo. Seems there have been some weird reports coming back from people ordering from New Milford Photo. If you would like to order from them, by all means, but if I was you, I would look up the recent feedback from some recent customers from here. I don't want to sway you either way, I just would like to make you aware, since you mentioned wanting to buy there.

There are other suppliers as well, such as tshirtsupplies.com, alpha supply.com, coastal business, proworld (I think proworld may still be running a special on the JPSS - you can look in the preferred vendor section of the forum.)

I am an ex-Ironall user who would not go back to Ironall unless the fade issue was fixed. That, to me, is the only real difference between the two papers. JPSS holds the color, Ironall fades. JPSS also works and is colorfast with my dye ink, and Ironall wasn't, but that is not as important to me since I have a few pigment ink printers, it's no biggie..... but the fading is.

JPSS can have a gritty feel to the finish, even after repressing with teflon. Repressing with parchment paper smoothes that out... Here's a link on that if you want to read more:
transfer paper tips for lasting image - Page 5 - T-Shirt Forums
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t69756-post412946.html#412946

Glad the link to the HP ink helped you out. Those inks were always shrouded in mystery, hopefully now, that is over. 

Have a great night. Hope this helps you out. =)


----------



## Leatherneck

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

I would definately recommend jpss 100 times over. In fact it's the only paper for lights I do use.


----------



## belancergolf7

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thanks a lot guys for all the feedback! =)

Kelly thanks for recommending me to other suppliers. I actually found some better prices out there. I think im going to go with tshirtsuppliers.com 

So should I go with Jetwear for darks as well? 

I'm going to be printing mousepads as well and also totebags. Know anything else I can customize with these transfers? Now I just have to figure out what kind of software I am going to use to design and I'm ready to go. I am aiming towards a photoshop software.


----------



## Girlzndollz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*



belancergolf7 said:


> Thanks a lot guys for all the feedback! =)
> 
> Kelly thanks for recommending me to other suppliers. I actually found some better prices out there. I think im going to go with tshirtsuppliers.com


You're welcome. Glad you got the chance to evaluate a few suppliers, and make a choice from a bigger base. It's always good to shop around. 



> So should I go with Jetwear for darks as well? I'm going to be printing mousepads as well and also totebags.


JetWear Dark is the same paper as Alpha Gold for Dark, which both of those papers are actually re-named - they are both Neenah JetOPAQUE. Neenah is the same manufacturer of the Jetpro Sofstretch. Althought, JetOPAQUE is not JPSS for Darks. There is no JPSS Dark, yet... lol.. but I am waiting for that product to come out... maybe one day. =)

JetWear Dark is well liked by alot of people on the forum. It is is liked because it holds color well, and is durable. It has a little bit heavier of a hand than Ironall Dark, but for totes and mosepads, that won't matter.

I like Ironall Dark because it is stretchy. Folks who have tried both like Ironall Dark for the stretchy, slightly less hand (feel on the shirt), but they think it fades a bit. They like JetWear Dark for the color retention. Both papers are durable in that they do not crack and peel quickly like some dark papers. Folks who prefer JetWear Dark over look the heavier hand in favor of the color retention. That is what I got out of reading the feedback on the forum.

I haven't tried the JetWear yet, but would like to so I can see what they are talking about first hand. I kind of feel like that is the best way to find out about papers. Buy sample packs, press them on a test shirt, and wash and dry them. I like to do about 10 washes, to really get a feel for how a product will perform. That's what the customer will usually be looking for as well, and when you want repeat business, you want a product that wears well, for it's genre, for a long time. 

Hope this helps, and good luck to you! PS: To see what else can be customized, sometimes I look at supplier sites and see what they recommend in the paper description when they list it on their site. Reading here about folks 'experiments' is also a good way to see what people are doing. =)


----------



## Jamey

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

Thanks for the info!


----------



## momtaz

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

do washed the shirt in a washing machine or hand washed it?
and would u just summrize what have u done exactly like hot or cold water and drying in direct sun or shade and i heard that u better wash ur shirt after printing directly and press again the printings after drying??
I need every single instruction that i can put with the shirt and pass to the customer ?

thx for your effort


----------



## mrdavid

*re: Wow! Jetprosofstretch JPSS & Bleach Results -pictures - Canon Dye ink and Durabrite Pigment ink*

with JPSS you can wash in machine I set it at hot water and I put bleach in with it as long as you have white shirts and put in dryer on hot .......


----------



## Cjoe Design

Girlzndolls,

have you compared windows on white Port Authority 100% cotton 6.1oz? 

I'm guessing it would be similar to your beefy test


----------



## Girlzndollz

Hi Cory, no I haven't. I don't have a use for PA shirts, so I didn't test them. From what I see, shirts can vary greatly. I think the only real way to know is to test the shirt you are interested, and see the results in person.


----------



## son.of.a.fish

mrdavid said:


> I use 100 percent cotton and print with I use sublimation dyes with JPSS and Cotton


did you use sublimation in cotton and it looks this good?? how was that? since everybody even supplies sellers says that cotton and sub never go together?? enlighten me Master!!!


----------



## etgser

i am going to buy an epson with dura brite i will make sure i get this paper..it works for dark and light colors?


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

etgser said:


> i am going to buy an epson with dura brite i will make sure i get this paper..it works for dark and light colors?


It doesnt, it only works for lite colors.


----------



## tang3

do you trim your images?


----------



## mrdavid

> did you use sublimation in cotton and it looks this good?? how was that? since everybody even supplies sellers says that cotton and sub never go together?? enlighten me Master!!!


When using JPSS I can use sublimation ink and yes it will hold up and looks better but you need to heat press it for 40 seconds at 375..


----------



## keetch

I have the canon mx350, how can i tell what ink it uses? I am going to order the epson 1100 with cis but need to get through christmas first lol
sue


----------



## son.of.a.fish

mrdavid said:


> When using JPSS I can use sublimation ink and yes it will hold up and looks better but you need to heat press it for 40 seconds at 375..


oh, but it still been like transfer paper, only using sub inks... interesting...


----------



## Girlzndollz

keetch said:


> I have the canon mx350, how can i tell what ink it uses? I am going to order the epson 1100 with cis but need to get through christmas first lol
> sue



Hi Sue,

You can go to the Canon site and look up your model to see what ink carts it takes. It should say in the printer specs or the ink specs what type of ink it is. It could be a pigment black with dye colors. Ya never know, you do have to look. Best wishes.


----------



## mentalrager

For the record, I have had several failed attempts at inkjet transfer using JPSS, JP for Activewear, and 3G Opaque using a Canon MP970 (mostly CLI8 dye inks with black pigmented ink). I absolutely love the Neenah transfer papers, even the 3G Opaque has some stretch to it, and does not have too much hand (although hard to avoid entirely on the opaque).

Pretty much all of the color washed out of the inks after the first wash. The pigmented black was fine, but everything else looked like a greyish or greenish washout. I have to admit that I started with a torture test and used hot water and oxygen bleach (oxyclean/oxiclean) in the load because I wanted to test worst case scenarios first. I don't want these garments washing out and looking amatuer when people take them home and start using them. I believe the specialty pigmented inks in combination with the Neenah papers is the only combination that is going to give me the professional results I'm looking for.

With that in mind, I just bought an Epson Workforce 1100 (they seem to be on sale these days as they are trying to bring in the new models). So now I can do water resistant wide format printing, use Durabrite pigmented inks for now, and upgrade to the heat transfer specialty pigmented inks for even better results.


----------



## Girlzndollz

The tee shirt blank will play a giant role in results. Just as much as inks or papers. All carry equal weight in results in my tests. 

I had failure with ironall with two tees, horrible, but found huge success with jerseys hw 5050 for colorfastness with ironall- which is the issue with ironall. Colorfastness. 

I found with JPSS, I was able to use a bigger variety of blanks with success but still found different results with different blanks. 

Glad you found a combination that works great for you. 

I personally feel ive become a little impatient with inkjet due to the temperamental nature of the printer (issue after issue), I find the epsons are just bugging me out... Less of an issue but still existent is the difference in papers from batch to batch, ghosting issues, etc 

It's a great, fun, fairly inexpensive great way to make a custom tee when it works well and you have your process fine tuned, but overall, I think I would just prefer something like vinyl or plastisols more. The idea if making a tee without so many variables threatening the results sounds pretty good to me lately.


----------



## Bloomwood

Girlzndollz said:


> Here are pictures of a test with Jetprosofstretch paper, Dye ink, Washed with One cup of bleach repeatedly. Warm water/ High heat dryer / Rightside out, except for one wash. Bleach washes = 7 times.
> 
> This shirt is a Jerzees 50/50 HW blend, and was printed with Canon OEM regular dye ink. This test was to test color fastness of JPSS with this dye ink, and I tossed the bleach in after 5 washes and it showed no fading, just to toughen up the test.
> 
> I think the results are fabulous. After seeing the results, I am calling the testing done, but will continue to wash the shirt over the summer and post updates in this thread only. Have a great day!
> 
> PS: This may open a door for JPSS users, but this doesn't apply to other papers. Also, I only tested the Canon ink, any other inks will need to be tested to see if the combination works as well as this one, I know Claria ink is working as well with JPSS.
> 
> That being said, I am totally Impressed with Jetprosofstretch... Wonderful Paper!!
> 
> *Picture 1* on the top left is: Just after pressing, before wash one.
> *Picture 2* on the top middle is: Just after cold water wash/low temp dryer.
> *Picture 3* on the top right is: wash 7, 6 warm water washes/high heat dryer, and twice with one cup of bleach.
> *Picture 4* on the bottom left is: wash 12, 11 warm water washes/high heat dryer
> and *7 times with One Cup of Bleach*!!! WOW!


Hi Girlzndollz,
Did you use a press or a home iron? If you used a press, can you please try again, this time, using a home iron?


----------



## UKtshirtsretro

Can someone recommend me a printer / inks to get.

i want to start printing and using heat press onto white/light 100% cotton t shirts.

just not sure what printer is good and what ink?

some of you are saying dye sublimation printers onto jet pro will work? is that true?


----------



## nepoediwseye

hey guys! This is my first post on t-shirtforums. 

I apologize if this has been asked a million times already... I tried reading through the thread but got kind of tired after the fourth page 

I'm brand new to t-shirt making; just purchased the Hotronix Fusion and an Epson R2880. I am looking to get shirts (from what I've read here, 50/50 shirts work best) and some ink... I understand that pigment ink works best, and so far I've seen people talk about DuraBrite, Canon, and Claria.

Is there one type of pigment ink that works better than the rest? 

I appreciate all your input/help.

Best of luck to everyone who's a newby like me!


----------



## Girlzndollz

Well, different people have had different results with the same ink. 

it's really best to try it out. if someplace sells the printer you are interested in, they may print off a sample with the ink on it on your transfer paper so you can see if it's the printer for you. 

wash and dry your selected shirt.

if you like what you see. you may be on to something .... but....

buying ink in cartridges gets pricy if you print volume. so you might check out bulk ink systems or refillable ink cartridges. 

there are many threads about them on the forum. good luck! and you won't be a newbie long! you'll catch on fast. it's not too complicated


----------



## ck65

I just finished reading all 9 pages of this thread. This thread started in 2008 and the last post was 2012. It is now 2018 and I just purchased the Epson WF-7710 with Durabrite pigment inks. After reading this thread and others I feel better about my choice but am still concerned with the color shifting issues. I haven't tried printing anything yet and haven't even opened the box yet. It was on sale for $100 less and I didn't want to miss out but I still wanted to do more research. 

A little backstory: My first attempt at heat transfer printing was in 2007 with Epson Stylus 1400 and Armor Inks from bestblanks.com I was very satisfied with the results. I had one printer set up with the Armor Inks and the other set up with the Sublimation Inks from SawGrass (I believe). I wasn't impressed with the sublimation inks but I admit I may not have had the settings set correctly, I didn't do as much research before starting back then as I am doing now. It was a short-lived experience as life interfered with my plans so here I am starting again.

First question: The JPSS for lights transfer papers seems to be very popular throughout this forum and this thread. Does this still hold true in 2018? Have there been new and better developments since this thread started?

2) This is a bit off-topic but I'm going to ask anyway because you know, it never hurts to ask. I've seen videos about ImageClip for darks for laser printers and white toner and am very impressed. I also saw a video where the guy screen printed the white ink to the inkjet color transfer and it pressed very nicely - very vibrant. Has anyone here had any experience with either of these methods for printing on dark shirts? If so, what are your thoughts? Have there been other developments for a lighter hand feel for heat transfer on dark shirts?

3) So I don't have to look through the thread again, can you explain solutions to color shifting problem with Durabrite inks?

4) Someone in this thread mentioned something about "upgrading" (from Durabrite) to premium heat transfer inks. Not sure if he was referring to Epson upgrade or a third-party dealer but I googled and found this which I found to be very impressive --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ-G7cqfjbc
Has anyone had experience with these inks or have any better recommendations? I've heard Cobra inks mentioned in this forum a lot - are they better than Armor inks in Epson printers or does anyone have any alternative and better recommendations? I'm wanting something cost/quality efficient with a higher emphasis on quality if I have to make a tradeoff. 

5) I plan to specialize in one-offs with images of people - like family photographs. The way I understand it, laser printers don't do skin tones well. I may try sublimation later on but for now, I will stick with pigment inks. Does anyone have any preference or tricks to print great images of people for heat transfer onto t-shirts? Also, does anyone have experience with photography? If so, will more megapixels or higher quality camera make a difference when printing with 4-color inks for heat transfer? I've heard that for the purpose of heat transfer that more colors don't make a noticeable difference - does anyone have an opinion on this?

Thank you for all the great information in this thread and any new information one might provide.


----------



## NoXid

ck65 said:


> I just finished reading all 9 pages of this thread. This thread started in 2008 and the last post was 2012. It is now 2018 and I just purchased the Epson WF-7710 with Durabrite pigment inks. After reading this thread and others I feel better about my choice but am still concerned with the color shifting issues. I haven't tried printing anything yet and haven't even opened the box yet. It was on sale for $100 less and I didn't want to miss out but I still wanted to do more research.
> 
> A little backstory: My first attempt at heat transfer printing was in 2007 with Epson Stylus 1400 and Armor Inks from bestblanks.com I was very satisfied with the results. I had one printer set up with the Armor Inks and the other set up with the Sublimation Inks from SawGrass (I believe). I wasn't impressed with the sublimation inks but I admit I may not have had the settings set correctly, I didn't do as much research before starting back then as I am doing now. It was a short-lived experience as life interfered with my plans so here I am starting again.
> 
> First question: The JPSS for lights transfer papers seems to be very popular throughout this forum and this thread. Does this still hold true in 2018? Have there been new and better developments since this thread started?
> 
> 2) This is a bit off-topic but I'm going to ask anyway because you know, it never hurts to ask. I've seen videos about ImageClip for darks for laser printers and white toner and am very impressed. I also saw a video where the guy screen printed the white ink to the inkjet color transfer and it pressed very nicely - very vibrant. Has anyone here had any experience with either of these methods for printing on dark shirts? If so, what are your thoughts? Have there been other developments for a lighter hand feel for heat transfer on dark shirts?
> 
> 3) So I don't have to look through the thread again, can you explain solutions to color shifting problem with Durabrite inks?
> 
> 4) Someone in this thread mentioned something about "upgrading" (from Durabrite) to premium heat transfer inks. Not sure if he was referring to Epson upgrade or a third-party dealer but I googled and found this which I found to be very impressive --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ-G7cqfjbc
> Has anyone had experience with these inks or have any better recommendations? I've heard Cobra inks mentioned in this forum a lot - are they better than Armor inks in Epson printers or does anyone have any alternative and better recommendations? I'm wanting something cost/quality efficient with a higher emphasis on quality if I have to make a tradeoff.
> 
> 5) I plan to specialize in one-offs with images of people - like family photographs. The way I understand it, laser printers don't do skin tones well. I may try sublimation later on but for now, I will stick with pigment inks. Does anyone have any preference or tricks to print great images of people for heat transfer onto t-shirts? Also, does anyone have experience with photography? If so, will more megapixels or higher quality camera make a difference when printing with 4-color inks for heat transfer? I've heard that for the purpose of heat transfer that more colors don't make a noticeable difference - does anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> Thank you for all the great information in this thread and any new information one might provide.


#1 JPSS is still the best paper for lights.

#2 That might work with JPSS. But unless you are always printing to the same size box, and thus can print white boxes onto your shirts ahead of time in batches, then you would find doing that for one-ofs rather tedious and time consuming. Much of the point of transfers is that they are quick and require little by way of equipment. That said, I screen print, and have considered trying this.

#3 Not in any great detail. Basically, you can directly adjust the color balance in the print dialog if you let the printer manage color (rather than using a profile). Heat pressed prints will come out to oyellow with OEM ink unless you do this.

#4 I use Cobra pigment, many do. It works, and is easily available. I'm sure there are others that work, too. Cobra provides profiles, which makes getting good results easier.

#5 If you were printing on *glossy photo paper*, you could get better skin tones and more subtle gradations with a 7 or 8 color printer. A T-shirt is _not_ glossy photo paper. I have printed onto JPSS with a 7 color and a 4 color printer. 4 does the job. Every cart/color you add is just more expense and more to go wrong.
^That applies mostly to the scenario of Light C, C, Light M, M, Y, Light K, K sort of ink sets, vs straight CMYK. Ink sets that extend the colors with an Orange and a Green (or the like) rather than light inks, may offer some benefits. But the light inks are just diluted full color inks and offer no benefit on anything other than an ideal substrate (glossy photo paper), where a gray can be made of closely spaced LtK dots rather than widely spaced K dots.


----------



## ck65

NoXid said:


> #5 If you were printing on *glossy photo paper*, you could get better skin tones and more subtle gradations with a 7 or 8 color printer. A T-shirt is _not_ glossy photo paper. I have printed onto JPSS with a 7 color and a 4 color printer. 4 does the job. Every cart/color you add is just more expense and more to go wrong.
> ^That applies mostly to the scenario of Light C, C, Light M, M, Y, Light K, K sort of ink sets, vs straight CMYK. Ink sets that extend the colors with an Orange and a Green (or the like) rather than light inks, may offer some benefits. But the light inks are just diluted full color inks and offer no benefit on anything other than an ideal substrate (glossy photo paper), where a gray can be made of closely spaced LtK dots rather than widely spaced K dots.


I was considering getting an Epson SureColor p400 later on - they have the red and orange inks. https://epson.com/For-Work/Printers...-P400-Wide-Format-Inkjet-Printer/p/C11CE85201 Do you think this will make a difference for printing images on people on t-shirts? It's pricey - I was considering it for later to expand into photo prints on canvas - maybe sooner if it improves the quality of heat transfers of people on t-shirts.


----------



## NoXid

ck65 said:


> I was considering getting an Epson SureColor p400 later on - they have the red and orange inks. https://epson.com/For-Work/Printers...-P400-Wide-Format-Inkjet-Printer/p/C11CE85201 Do you think this will make a difference for printing images on people on t-shirts? It's pricey - I was considering it for later to expand into photo prints on canvas - maybe sooner if it improves the quality of heat transfers of people on t-shirts.


I mentioned that it might help with skin tones because that is what I have read. I've never owned one with those ink colors, just the CMYK and LtC,C,LtM,M,Y,LtK,K, the latter of which I bought for printing on actual photo paper, but used a few times on JPSS so have seen it is no better than CMYK for JPSS.


----------



## ck65

NoXid said:


> I mentioned that it might help with skin tones because that is what I have read. I've never owned one with those ink colors, just the CMYK and LtC,C,LtM,M,Y,LtK,K, the latter of which I bought for printing on actual photo paper, but used a few times on JPSS so have seen it is no better than CMYK for JPSS.


Ok, thanks for answering.


----------

