# Need help with WF 7010 color profile



## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

My 4800 is down so I bought a WF7010 for my desktop sub printing. I am using Cobra inks and have a design which I did years ago with the 4800 which I use as a standard when I check colors. The WF7010 is printing the same quality but the colors are very muted when compared to my standard example. I am using Windows 7 and CoreldrawX6(64bit) and have downloaded the correct profile from Cobra and have set the recommended printer preferences.
when I print I am specifying the Cobra profile for "correct colors etc" in the "color" tab. I'm also picking "print composite" & "use doc color settings"
Is there some other setting I need to check or can anyone tell what I am missing?
Thanks


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

texasjack49 said:


> My 4800 is down so I bought a WF7010 for my desktop sub printing. I am using Cobra inks and have a design which I did years ago with the 4800 which I use as a standard when I check colors. The WF7010 is printing the same quality but the colors are very muted when compared to my standard example. I am using Windows 7 and CoreldrawX6(64bit) and have downloaded the correct profile from Cobra and have set the recommended printer preferences.
> when I print I am specifying the Cobra profile for "correct colors etc" in the "color" tab. I'm also picking "print composite" & "use doc color settings"
> Is there some other setting I need to check or can anyone tell what I am missing?
> Thanks


Make sure you ICC/ICM ""OFF" in the Epson printer driver.

Although you have a 7010 and Cobra's inks you can follow the guide for the WF30 and Artainum inks. ICC's are general all setup the same in your graphic app, except for maybe "rendering intent" which is really subjective anyway.

The WF7010 setup screen are slightly different from the WF30 but the concept is to set the paper type, resolution, then diable the printer from using it's internal color managment.

Printer driver setup ...

http://sawgrassink.indigofiles.com/product_documentation/artainum/ARTAINIUM_WF30_ICC_012209JCR.pdf 

CD X5/X6 setup ...

SG uses the WF1100 in this guide but on the WF30 link they state ...

***These documents are not specific to the Workforce 30, but the settings will be the same. Simply substitute "Workforce 30" for each printer instance.*​ 

http://sawgrassink.indigofiles.com/...WF1100_-_Print_Setup_Guide_-_CorelDRAW_X5.pdf

So just substitute the WF7010 name in the docs and of course the ICC profile name from Cobra instead of the Artanium profile name.

I always setup this way for Corel.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

Assuming you're setting up color profiling correctly in CorelDraw...

First, are you judging the colors based on their appearance after heat activation, or on the paper? Don't know if it's a Cobra ink thing, but the colors will appear quite muted on standard release paper until you transfer the image.

Unless they've changed very recently, Cobra offers two generic profiles for the 7010. One is for "tags," which is what Richard calls license plates. This one is better for aluminum and some other substrates, but IMO it tends to print a little on the blue side on my 7010.

The other is called "matte" (or some such) and I don't have a clue what it's for. The colors are very off for just about anything I've ever tried it with. Prints using it -- at any paper setting or quality level -- tend to be very brownish-purpleish, dark, and ugly. But that may just be me!

You may find overall look is better using Plain paper type, and a higher print quality. Turn off Fast printing.

To judge color brightness, but not color trueness, do a print where the printer controls color. Press that onto something, such as a high-weave polyester fabric. That'll tell you if the ink is laying down correctly. You can worry about correcting the colors after you've checked this part.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks Mike,
I will try the links later today. I do have the ICC "off" in the printer driver but I did notice that Rendering Intent is set at "relative colormetric" and not "perpetual". I have no idea if this could be the issue but I may try that first. Color profiles are still just another form of Voodoo to me.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

GordonM said:


> Assuming you're setting up color profiling correctly in CorelDraw...
> 
> First, are you judging the colors based on their appearance after heat activation, or on the paper?
> I'm comparing the finished product on the same piece of fabric.
> ...


I't does look like a Brightness issue because the colors seem very close to my sample print just dull and darker. Thanks for the feedback.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

All the profiles for a given printer and ink are in a single zip. But ... it looks like he's recently updated the zip for the 7010, and it now contains only one profile. You might ask him if he has any others he can send to you.

His settings JPG image shows he is leaving High Speed printing on, which means it's not the full ink laydown for that paper/quality setting. He's named the profile "Max Quality" but if you need more ink turn High Speed off.

When you say "no ink is left behind on the paper," do you mean absolutely none, or it's faint? What brand of paper are you using?

Have you tried a print without any profile? This will answer a lot of questions. If it's very muted there are other problems. It should be bright and clear, and actually not that far off from normal. That's how it is on my 7010.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

GordonM said:


> All the profiles for a given printer and ink are in a single zip. But ... it looks like he's recently updated the zip for the 7010, and it now contains only one profile. You might ask him if he has any others he can send to you.
> 
> His settings JPG image shows he is leaving High Speed printing on, which means it's not the full ink laydown for that paper/quality setting. He's named the profile "Max Quality" but if you need more ink turn High Speed off.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty sure the target print he used for the ICC was created with his own sub paper that he sells as well.


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## jemmyell (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

The paper is actually Conde DyeTrans brand.

-James


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

GordonM said:


> All the profiles for a given printer and ink are in a single zip. But ... it looks like he's recently updated the zip for the 7010, and it now contains only one profile. You might ask him if he has any others he can send to you.
> 
> His settings JPG image shows he is leaving High Speed printing on, which means it's not the full ink laydown for that paper/quality setting. He's named the profile "Max Quality" but if you need more ink turn High Speed off.
> 
> ...


I will call Richard on Monday about the profiles. I did follow the Cobra setting but from the image on the fabric it does look like we are getting enough ink.
We are getting a faint image left on the paper but it is very even as if nothing is being left behind. Looks normal based on our 4 years of experience.
Since I bought the printer from Cobra I also bought their 13X19 paper which I understand is a general purpose sub paper same as Conde sells. My wife does all the printing but prior to me getting involved this week I noticed that the prints on Chromaluxe were not as clear or detailed as the 4800. She had downloaded the Cobra profile but had not set it up in Corel so those panels were done without the profile. Clients loved the panels but had nothing to compare against. I knew they were off slightly in detail and color.Now that I had her print using our standard fabric sample and the Cobra profile it is obviously off in color although detail is good, maybe too much blue which causes a somewhat muddy or muted colors. Good enough that an untrained eye would think it is a good print.
Too busy today but plan to try all the suggesstions tomorrow.
Thanks much to everyone.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

I think everything will look better on the 4800. The 7010 is not in the same class as a 4800. I don't know all the manufacturing differences, but the 7010 is mostly plastic, aimed for general office use, and retails for under $200; whereas the 4800 cost several thousand in its day, and from what I understand, had much sturdier construction. 

That said, though should be good enough for the average customer, until you get your 4800 repaired. It sounds like you had a great printer there.

I asked about the left-over ink because I've always gotten some tinge of color, and I wondered if others got a different result using a 7010 on the same paper. The DyeSub paper isn't my favorite; I like the Image Right stuff Coastal sells. Inexpensive, and there doesn't seem to be a surface it can't be used with (I do a lot on glass). I'm not sure if it's rebranded from something else, or if that's the primary trade name.

Let me know if Richard can help. Otherwise, I have some profiles you can try.


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## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

I tried for days to get the 7010 profile to work and finally gave up on it. Everything was ok but I could not get a light blue. In the profile all blue seemed to be dark blue period. I finally scrapped the profile and set it up manually. I use the standard profile but set the paper to matte presentation and quality setting. Then I use the more options and use the Adobe gamma 2 and add some density. I found that you can get everything from a navy blue to an almost too light to see blue by changing nothing but the paper and quality settings, all from the same file. You just simply have to take the time and change one thing at a time until it works. Once you get it set the 7010 with Cobra inks does a good job but it does have a tendency to get paper jams.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

UPDATE:
Monday I noticed a very slight difference between my 2009 color standard image and the one I was using on Sunday, turns out, my wife opened a different file than the one we used in 2009 that we use as our standard. Once we opened the correct file then the colors we are printing now on the 7010 are much closer to our standard image from the 4800. Detail and color is good with 2 exceptions; Blue is a little darker out of the 7010 and the RED is off (almost orange) Out of the 4800 it was a great Red(best i've seen) and it reads in Corel as R255,G31,B37. I did try other RGB settings using a chart but mostly got oranges and reddish brown squares on the printed fabric. So now we have good bright colors with good detail, just need to dial in the RED a little better. I didn't expect it to match or rival the 4800 but I knew the 7010 was capable of better results than we were getting. I plan to play around with it again tomorrow and will update if we get the RED working correctly.


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## pisquee (Jan 8, 2012)

Have you considered getting a custom ICC made?


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

pisquee said:


> Have you considered getting a custom ICC made?


Well, I'm considering it but I already have a profile provided so I think I just need to figure out how to make it work. Also, there is plenty of assistance here on TSF sothat is my first route. If I can't make anything work then getting a profile made is an option. I don't mind going thru the motions since I definitely need to learn more about color profiles.
Thanks


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## pisquee (Jan 8, 2012)

The supplied profiles you are currently using are generic ones to cover all WF 7010 printers, whereas a custom profile, would be specific to your WF 7010 and inks. Note that not all WF 7010 printers coming out of Epson's factories will print exactly the same, each will have its own variance. Due to the line of printers, the WF7010 would be allowed to have more variance, than say your Stylus Pro 4800.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

pisquee said:


> The supplied profiles you are currently using are generic ones to cover all WF 7010 printers, whereas a custom profile, would be specific to your WF 7010 and inks. Note that not all WF 7010 printers coming out of Epson's factories will print exactly the same, each will have its own variance. Due to the line of printers, the WF7010 would be allowed to have more variance, than say your Stylus Pro 4800.


 No, I am not using a generic profile but one created by my very cooperative ink supplier using his ink and the WF7010 and his CISS. I'm not sure where you picked up that it was generic. I think it is Operator error (me) right now so I posted here for some input from some of the experts(I have yet to try all the suggestions I received). I will work with my supplier thru this week and if we can't get the RED dialed in then I will definitely go for a different custom profile. Other than the RED, we are getting a very good and well detailed image on fabric. Almost there, I think.
Thanks for your feedback


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

texasjack49 said:


> No, I am not using a generic profile but one created by my very cooperative ink supplier using his ink and the WF7010 and his CISS. I'm not sure where you picked up that it was generic. I think it is Operator error (me) right now so I posted here for some input from some of the experts(I have yet to try all the suggestions I received). I will work with my supplier thru this week and if we can't get the RED dialed in then I will definitely go for a different custom profile. Other than the RED, we are getting a very good and well detailed image on fabric. Almost there, I think.
> Thanks for your feedback


If you received an ICC profile from your ink vendor along with using their paper it should be plug in play. The two colors that seem to be the most challenging for someinks/profiles is in fact red and black.

Might be off but there should be zero reason your colors, etc be any less vibrant on a 7010 than an 48XX. The ink and the profile you are using is going to have a much greater effect than the printer.

Were you using the same ink in the 48XX?


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## pisquee (Jan 8, 2012)

Sorry, when you said that you had downloaded the ICC profile from your supplier, I thought you meant that you had downloaded an ICC for WF7010 in general, like what a lot of ink makers offer, rather than a custom one created for your specific printer. Did he create it before shipping the printer to you, or did you print off colour charts to post to him?
How long ago was your profile created? It can be good to redo the profile with new inks, as even good manufacturers may have some variance between ink batches, and the colour of the inks in the bottles/carts may change over time.


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

I don't buy into the specific printer bit for what we do in sublimation. If Epson is making printers with that much variance they need to get into another line of work. (And clearly, they don't need to -- their engineering is top notch.)

I agree a professional photographer, printing on 10-channel printers and requiring absolute gamuts, may have a desire to profile his specific printer/ink/paper combination. For sublimation, there are too many other variables that get in the way first, like temperature, pressure, humidity/moisture content, etc.

I've profiled my own printers, making ones specific to settings, transfer papers, and substrates I use. Some reds are still a pain in the a$$. When I check these in PhotoShop, sure enough they're out of gamut. I go back, tweak the profile or make a new one, same thing. Certain synthesized colors are just difficult to do on a 4-color printer. Just because you make a profile doesn't mean that color will now be reproducible. It may be better, but it's still not exact.

As I've mentioned before, I've not found Richard's profiles to be all that accurate. For a time (he may still be), he was providing an Epson 1100 profile for the Workforce 30. He used to have a profile for both printers that resulted in muddy, browny/purple colors. No way that could have been simply the difference between specific printers -- for one thing it was the same on two different Epson models. An ink change perhaps? Error in the profiling software maybe? I have not checked the new profiles he's posted.

I agree having a custom profile is overall best, only because then it matches everything you do, not just the printer. I think the printer is the most reliable component in the equation. That's been my experience, anyway.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

GordonM said:


> *I don't buy into the specific printer bit for what we do in sublimation. If Epson is making printers with that much variance they need to get into another line of work. (And clearly, they don't need to -- their engineering is top notch.)*
> 
> I agree a professional photographer, printing on 10-channel printers and requiring absolute gamuts, may have a desire to profile his specific printer/ink/paper combination. For sublimation, there are too many other variables that get in the way first, like temperature, pressure, humidity/moisture content, etc.
> 
> ...


Actually it can vary enough to matter within the same printer model, especially on desktops. Even with the Pro printers such as 48XX and up it can matter.

A while back I had a big a$$ rush order for some Unisub stuff. I was using a C88+ and had a spare still in the box. I thought I would just double my printing speeds by setting up the spare C88+ using identical settings, profiles, drivers, and same inks in refill carts. Once I started printing on the spare printer I noticed a difference and confirmed that it wasn't the same after transferring as well.

So I stopped the spare printer's print job and just ran with 1 printer. Either printer would have been OK, however, when an item from one printer was side by side with an itme made by the other there was a visible difference, as I recall the blue was a slight different tint. The customer would have noticed he had 2 different versions of the same design.

You can read more on the subject in this article here ... Epson had a utility to calibrate for factor variances.

Epson ColorBase


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

Yes, I understand there will be differences due to wear, age, and other factors. But my point is that with sublimation there's a whole slew of additional factors that makes worrying about the slight differences within a given printer model a matter of diminishing returns.

If you need to get into production work with multiple printers you'd profile each printer. That would be the only inconstant, as for any given production run you'd stabilize with the same paper, same humidity, samepress and pressing, etc. I can press an item -- say a mouse pad -- one week, go back and using the same printer and all printer settings press another, and it's slightly different. Something or other will change enough to cause a shift. Not a big one, but enough if you're comparing side-by-side.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

GordonM said:


> Yes, I understand there will be differences due to wear, age, and other factors. But my point is that with sublimation there's a whole slew of additional factors that makes worrying about the slight differences within a given printer model a matter of diminishing returns.
> 
> If you need to get into production work with multiple printers you'd profile each printer. That would be the only inconstant, as for any given production run you'd stabilize with the same paper, same humidity, samepress and pressing, etc. I can press an item -- say a mouse pad -- one week, go back and using the same printer and all printer settings press another, and it's slightly different. Something or other will change enough to cause a shift. Not a big one, but enough if you're comparing side-by-side.


Yes, in most cases the differences are subtle and acceptable. But slight differences matter when you are after exact color reproduction, like matching a customer logo colors. Now I always run new swatches when I have a new printer of either the same model or upgrade model

What I learned from using ANY sublimation profile is that they are OK for photos, some better than others, but for exact color reproduction you must use swatches. I work in mixed vector and bitmap.


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## texasjack49 (Aug 4, 2008)

UPDATE:
As suggested by one post, I configured my 7010 per the instructions for the Epson WF30 which means that i checked "ICM" and unchecked "No Color Adjustment" I also changed from "Plain Paper" to "Premium Paper Matte" among other changes. I configured CorelX6 per the WF 1100 instructions. I was desperate but had no idea what I was doing.
I printed onto a poly T shirt and WOW the colors popped and detail was great. It rivals the 4800 in many ways. Red is not as deep as 4800 but still very very good. The only real difference between the 4800 and 7010 is that the design has some gradient or half tone colors in it and the 4800 does a better job in defining color variations. You have to put the shirts side by side to even detect the difference.I still need to do some work in case I need to color match but at least I am up and printing again to get my orders out. Anyway, thanks all for the inputs


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

texasjack49 said:


> UPDATE:
> As suggested by one post, I configured my 7010 per the instructions for the Epson WF30 which means that i checked "ICM" and unchecked "No Color Adjustment" I also changed from "Plain Paper" to "Premium Paper Matte" among other changes. I configured CorelX6 per the WF 1100 instructions. I was desperate but had no idea what I was doing.
> I printed onto a poly T shirt and WOW the colors popped and detail was great. It rivals the 4800 in many ways. Red is not as deep as 4800 but still very very good. The only real difference between the 4800 and 7010 is that the design has some gradient or half tone colors in it and the 4800 does a better job in defining color variations. You have to put the shirts side by side to even detect the difference.I still need to do some work in case I need to color match but at least I am up and printing again to get my orders out. Anyway, thanks all for the inputs


Now that you have your "baseline" correct you can experiment with these profiles for different substrates ...

Keep your baseline the same, just change the profile you reference in the CD printer "Color" dialog, nothing else has to change. Corel will let you name your setups so you only have to setup once for each profile. These are Cobra profiles for 4 color Epsons. Differences between the 7010 and 1100 should be minimal. The 7010 profiles in the link below were for different substrates.

http://www.mgparrish.com/PC%20WF7010.zip

http://www.mgparrish.com/Epson WF1100 High Temp.zip

The 4800 will have better gradients.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

texasjack49 said:


> UPDATE:
> As suggested by one post, I configured my 7010 per the instructions for the Epson WF30 which means that i checked "ICM" and unchecked "No Color Adjustment" I also changed from "Plain Paper" to "Premium Paper Matte" among other changes. I configured CorelX6 per the WF 1100 instructions. I was desperate but had no idea what I was doing.
> I printed onto a poly T shirt and WOW the colors popped and detail was great. It rivals the 4800 in many ways. Red is not as deep as 4800 but still very very good. The only real difference between the 4800 and 7010 is that the design has some gradient or half tone colors in it and the 4800 does a better job in defining color variations. You have to put the shirts side by side to even detect the difference.I still need to do some work in case I need to color match but at least I am up and printing again to get my orders out. Anyway, thanks all for the inputs


Also, for exact color matches I never rely on any profile, if you haven't worked with swatches before then this should save a lot of work in the long run. It takes a little time to do this but well worth it. You can also download swatch files there.

Since you are using Corel it is much easier to nail colors down than in photoshop.

MultiRIP Screen Printing, Sublimation, Transfers, Photograph and General Printing RIP Software

This is more applicable (and easier) for vector work or if you compose from scratch in Photoshop. 

Doing photos the swatches are not really practical so for that the profiles are the main provider of accuracy.


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## goad (Feb 7, 2007)

HI everyone, I just purchased Cobra Ink for my WF-7010.
Is anyone using this ink for this printer but using GIMP as their graphics program?
I am following Richards Profile setup but cant 100% because he is using Corel and some of the things he says to do I cant because either the color management names things differently or GIMP simply doesnt have....

Any ideas? How to properly setup Cobra Inks profiles with GIMP?


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

goad said:


> HI everyone, I just purchased Cobra Ink for my WF-7010.
> Is anyone using this ink for this printer but using GIMP as their graphics program?
> I am following Richards Profile setup but cant 100% because he is using Corel and some of the things he says to do I cant because either the color management names things differently or GIMP simply doesnt have....
> 
> Any ideas? How to properly setup Cobra Inks profiles with GIMP?


Post your screen shots where you made any changes to the default setting. GIMP does have color management but I haven't sublimated with it before but fundamentally color management goes this way ...

1. Document color management. 

This determines the way imported, pasted, and natively created documents are handled when they are on the "canvas" and when they are saved or exported.

2. Printer color management.

Inside the graphic app. This is where the graphic application handles color data going to the printer. Here the sublimation ICC is applied _before_ it goes to the printer. The graphic app is set to handle the color management instead of the printer.

3. The printer driver. Here since the graphic app is set to color manage the data before it hits the printer then the printer driver is set to not color manage,

The paper type, size, and quality (resolution) are set in here in the printer driver.


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## goad (Feb 7, 2007)

Ok here is the screenshot within Color Management......thanks for helping.....if anything else, please let me know!

Ken


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

goad said:


> Ok here is the screenshot within Color Management......thanks for helping.....if anything else, please let me know!
> 
> Ken


 Ok I downloaded GIMP. This is really screwball because that tab sets the doc workspace and the monitor profile and lets you "simulate" or soft proof the output. I cannot see where the printer profile is actually set in GIMP.

As best I can tell you would use Windows to force the printer sublimation to the printer.

I did find a Conde video where they use GIMP for sublimation. You would substitute you profile instead of Condes profiles of course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=linj3n-P1IY

You can try their method but I think they have the profile forced by windows going to the printer. See the info here for that.

Change color management settings


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## goad (Feb 7, 2007)

I did as you suggested following the Conde GIMP profile setup and will see how it goes.
Using the basic setup from Richard, I am sublimating a cup that is all red with white letters (a company logo) and the mugs all come out Orange.
Not getting much help from Richard...If I cant get it to work I will go and get inks from Conde, at least they seem to support GIMP.....
So frustrating!


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

goad said:


> I did as you suggested following the Conde GIMP profile setup and will see how it goes.
> Using the basic setup from Richard, I am sublimating a cup that is all red with white letters (a company logo) and the mugs all come out Orange.
> Not getting much help from Richard...If I cant get it to work I will go and get inks from Conde, at least they seem to support GIMP.....
> So frustrating!


 A mug is probably the worst substrate to use for color testing.

Best to use a flat piece of white coated aluminum or a white poly fabric.

There are so many variables to getting the mug dialed in to get a good color.

You could easily have 1 or both problems,

1. Color is off _period_.

2. Mug is not sufficiently cooked, or overcooked. This effects color for sure.

Need to isolate the specific problem.


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## goad (Feb 7, 2007)

I have tried various settings and have wasted 5 mugs so far.....even with varying some settings.....the mugs all look the same. ORANGE.

I went and looked closer at several aluminum license plates and also just printed a new one and the reds in those are Orange as well..........


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