# Discharge White ink cracking - What's the problem?



## skitzz (Apr 17, 2008)

Well, I looked around and couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for. I am trying discharge printing for the first time and have run into a problem. The feel is amazing but I am getting major cracking! I am using the discharge white - Matsui from silkscreeningsupplies.com and I am printing on black 6.1 oz 100% ringspun cotton Port Authority tees from Sanmar. I am using a flash dryer and curing anyhwere from 90-120 seconds at about 340 degrees. Also, the coverage seems to be really thin (not opaque enough) so I have to go back and hit it with a few more strokes. Otherwise it does not cover well. Do I flash in between? If I try it wet on wet (even though it is same color), it sticks to the shirt. I realize there could be a variety of issues here but was hoping someone could give some suggestions on where I should start. The main issue though is the cracking...Also, when printing on royal blues, the white looks a little yellow. Is this normal? Makes me want to stick with Plastisol, but I dont want to give up just yet. Help!


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## CVL Ink (Oct 4, 2008)

My guess is that you need to print through a lower mesh. The "cracking" is probably the result of the discharge not penetrating deep enough into the fabric. I use the Union flavor and print through 110-125 mesh. Try a lower mesh and also maybe add some squeegee pressure. It will take longer to dry but it'll take care of the cracking and coverage issues.
BTW soaking the shirt through with discharge like this will likely leave the print feeling a little stiff. This is just a byproduct of the discharge ink and the super-soft feel will come back after the garment is washed.
Good luck!


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## skitzz (Apr 17, 2008)

I am currently using a 140 mesh for this.....So you're saying this is too high huh? Seems like it should be able to print through 140 but i guess not. Hmm.. I'll have to try that. Thanks,


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## CVL Ink (Oct 4, 2008)

With plastisols you're just laying the ink on top of the fabric - with discharge, if you want the whole thickness of fabric to discharge you really have to saturate it. Many printers are happy with what you've done so far - just discharging the surface of the shirt, not worrying about what it looks like when stretched. Surface discharge printing is appealing because its a lot easier to print, uses less discharge ink, and high detail designs often need higher mesh to hold the detail. You can surface discharge print through mesh as high as 305.


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## skitzz (Apr 17, 2008)

Ahh...thanks for that, makes logical sense. I'll have to get back into the lab and run some more tests...with a lower mesh count. I can see where that look is desireable (vintage/fashion/distressed), but for just regular printing, I would not want the cracking...


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## mikelmorgan (Nov 1, 2008)

Beware of royal shirts for discharging. I have discharged tons of shirts with tons of different methods and royal has not worked well for me at all. The yellow you are talking about might be the natural color of the shirt. See if the manufacture has a super white discharge, that may help.


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## studog79 (Jul 13, 2006)

I agree on the royal shirts, PITA.... also you need a lot of squegee pressure to get the ink wrapped around the fibers of the shirt. On our press we set it for 50 psi.


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## zymerguyer (Feb 15, 2007)

Yeah, I've got the same problem going on. I just printed my first run with discharge, it's rynonet from silkscreeningsupplies.com, and mine are cracking too. I can see that it's just on the surface and not getting into the fabric, but I'm using a 110 and I thought I was pushing hard enough with the squeeqee. Could there be any other variables that would cause this to happen?
Thanks
-Travis


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## allgooddc (Jun 22, 2008)

i have been messing with discharge for a little bit as well. I would try using a new product form union ink. its called plasticharge. its been out for a min now. but they just released a new batch "1003" its brighter white and works great. to get a good laydown i also use a 110. ill also flash it for a couple secs to give you a head start. the dryer speed and heat is key. give union ink a call ask for carol shes a beast. if u need more info ask for joe's number hes the east coast rep for them and hes a discharge king. hes really good. give him a call and im sure he can help you guys out a TON!~


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## Tj Ryonet Tech (Jul 28, 2008)

*DRYING/CURING:  *The 301 Enviro-Series ink must be cured for 2.5 to 3 minutes at 300 to 320 degrees F under typical infrared heat.
*Curing Options:  *Water based inks cure differently from standard plastisol inks. While plastisol inks cure with infrared once reaching 320 degrees, water based inks cure best with air movement and heat. Air movement is preferred to drive water out of the ink and blow away steam so heat can cure water base pigment properly. Without hot air movement across the ink, water based inks will take much longer to cure. In good air flow, water based inks can cure in under 1 minute while it may take 2.5 to 3 minutes in a standard infrared dryer. (Paper can be allowed to air dry)


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## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

CVL Ink said:


> With plastisols you're just laying the ink on top of the fabric - with discharge, if you want the whole thickness of fabric to discharge you really have to saturate it. Many printers are happy with what you've done so far - just discharging the surface of the shirt, not worrying about what it looks like when stretched. Surface discharge printing is appealing because its a lot easier to print, uses less discharge ink, and high detail designs often need higher mesh to hold the detail. You can surface discharge print through mesh as high as 305.



So, from this, it sounds like you may want to print white discharge with as little off-contact as possible, maybe none? 
This would certainly drive the ink farther into the shirt, although take longer to dry/discharge.


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## drscotty14 (Mar 23, 2011)

CVL Ink said:


> With plastisols you're just laying the ink on top of the fabric - with discharge, if you want the whole thickness of fabric to discharge you really have to saturate it. Many printers are happy with what you've done so far - just discharging the surface of the shirt, not worrying about what it looks like when stretched. Surface discharge printing is appealing because its a lot easier to print, uses less discharge ink, and high detail designs often need higher mesh to hold the detail. You can surface discharge print through mesh as high as 305.


what is the trick to getting the discharge all the way in the fibers so it doesnt look cracked when it stretches a little??


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## LoneWolf2 (Aug 10, 2007)

low off contact, or almost none, more squeege pressure, and make sure theres plenty of ink in the screen. You really have to saturate and drive the ink into the fibers.


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## drscotty14 (Mar 23, 2011)

soft or hard squeegee durometer? push or pull stroke?


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## LoneWolf2 (Aug 10, 2007)

I use a 70 durometer with a good hard push stroke


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## StarDesigns (Aug 4, 2013)

Certain color shirts just don't discharge well. Here's a list I found on Ryonet's website from Gildan. I applies well to other manufacturers and similar colors from Gildan not included on the list. 

http://support.silkscreeningsupplie...ildan-Discharge-Rating-Scale-For-Best-Results


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## denzelwashington (Nov 29, 2013)

Purples, greens and blues are bad for discharge in most cases. Use 70 durometer, good saturation is key, low or zero off contact. and if its cracking, YOU NEED TO ADD SOME H20! Guarantee the cracking will go away. At least 2 mins. in dryer, forced air for better results.


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## drscotty14 (Mar 23, 2011)

how many strokes/prints does it take to print deep into the fibers so when you stretch shirt you dont see lines?


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## denzelwashington (Nov 29, 2013)

1 to 2 depending on your method.


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## AROUND THE CLOCK (Sep 20, 2013)

wow i glad i saw this thread. I have been trying to discharge for the last week and been getting the same results, the discharge sits on top of the fabric, and it cracks and spots away when it is washed.

So no off contact and penetrate the fabric? I hope this solves my discharge misery.


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## AROUND THE CLOCK (Sep 20, 2013)

does anyone wash their customers shirts after a discharge print run before giving them to their customer?


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## jumboprinter (Oct 10, 2013)

AROUND THE CLOCK said:


> does anyone wash their customers shirts after a discharge print run before giving them to their customer?


We do. We bought 2 commercial washer and dryers and now have a "laundry room". We do not use soap we use a cold wash only. A dryer sheet is always a nice touch when drying since discharge doesn't smell the best!


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