# 4 color process white underbase problems



## phazeonechicago (Mar 18, 2008)

Printed 4cp on white came out great! Added white underbase for dark garments and the colors are wayyy off! HELP!!!!


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Are you flashing your white before you lay down your colors?


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## phazeonechicago (Mar 18, 2008)

sure am! I mean the colors dont even look close! Do I need to change the print order?


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## fdsales (Jul 1, 2007)

Process inks are transparent, therefore, the color of the substrate really makes a difference in how the inks print.
On a white shirt, process inks print "true", as they use light going thru the ink and reflecting off the white substrate to render their blended colors.
If you change the shirt to let's say a natural color, then you'll notice a shift in the color of your design, as now the light is reflecting back a natural color thru the inks.
In order to get the same color effect on a dark shirt w/ a white under base, your base coat would have to be TOTALLY white, which usually is not the case, so it's like the ink is being printed on a partially white base, with whatever color of the shirt showing thru also.
Also, the fact that when printing on a white shirt where the inks can properly blend together into the fabric of the shirt, and then printing the process ink onto a different substrate where the ink cannot blend properly and just sits on the base coat, can cause color shifts.
Also, if printing on a 50/50 dark shirt, then possibility the dye from the dark shirt is "gassing" into the white base, further changing the color of your white base.
Solutions: Try using a lighter pressure, and/or a different blade to lay down less ink on the "white" base. Also you may have to reburn your screens with a higher mesh count.


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## phazeonechicago (Mar 18, 2008)

I tried a dyno grey underbase wich improved it. So less pressure with the white? should I use a low bleed white for the underbase? Also Im using what I have as far as screen mesh (230).


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## fdsales (Jul 1, 2007)

Are you printing 50/50 or 100% cotton. The closer you base coat comes to real "white", the closer your process colors will print true. Try using less squeege pressure on your process colors...the more pressure you use, the more ink you put down, and that can change your process colors also.


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## phazeonechicago (Mar 18, 2008)

100% cotton custom dyed olive colored t-shirts.


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## fdsales (Jul 1, 2007)

OK, you'll need a "low-bleed" white base, probably what's happening is that the olive dye is "gassing" off into your white base when you flash the shirt, thereby changing the color of the white base just enough to make your process colors shift.
What mesh count are you using for the white base?


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## phazeonechicago (Mar 18, 2008)

230 For The White Screen As Well


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## fdsales (Jul 1, 2007)

OK, you need to change your mesh on the white to a 156 or 125 to let more white flow onto the shirt. Your base coat is not white enough, and probably your process colors look muted, or dark.
You need to get as much white ink down as possible, but not too much so that the shirt has a "bullet proof" feel to it. You'll have to experiment w/ the lower mesh count, and using 1 or 2 strokes, then flash, perhaps another stroke on top, then flash again, then put down your process colors.


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## amp267 (Oct 11, 2006)

I Think For Dark Shirts, You Have To Use Simulated Process. I Just Purchased Fastsilms And Trying To Learn It, They Recomend Simulated Process For Dark Shirts. And 4 Color Proccess For Light Shirts


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## kokosaaak (Sep 24, 2014)

Hello eweryone, 

I have a problem with color order - when I print white color base, on T-shirt is realy printing blue color. Same problem I have with CMYK - total change color and nothing OK. 

I'm using DTG printer on Epson R2000 base and AnyRIP software... 

Sorry for my english...


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## OSSKOBRET (Sep 17, 2011)

kokosaaak said:


> Hello eweryone,
> 
> I have a problem with color order - when I print white color base, on T-shirt is realy printing blue color. Same problem I have with CMYK - total change color and nothing OK.
> 
> ...


you need to post in DTG section this thread is for screen printing.
but with my experience with DTG it sounds like a blown print head


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## Printor (Apr 16, 2015)

I've always been told 4 color process is not really intended for over a white under print but I do it all the time. If I flash the white then print the poc. colors wet on wet it will be very muted. If you flash between all colors it will be much more vibrant. I takes 4 times longer but makes for a happy client. If printing manually on lights, I base my colors out til I can print with higher preasure without oversaturating the fabric and keep my prints consistent, Its really noticeable at the end of the day when your arms are toast. when switching to a underprint with the same design I almost always change inks to a purer mix. depends on design. If you were printing your whites with pure straight out of the bucket inks that tip won't help.


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