# First time sublimation, yellow on print.



## Coolhandlt

Just got a new Epson 7110 and stock ink. Put a simple vector design on a white shirt and it show up yellow. The print out looked great. Only using red and black colors. Everything checked out ok when I ran a nozzle and check test etc. it’s a new printer and I used new 14/8.5 paper from a supplier on eBay. Has anybody ever had this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Coolhandlt

After posting and not giving all the info, I decided to get back on here and try to explain a little more clearly. Or the best I know considering I’ve just got into this business. Here is some info on what I have goin on. I have a apple phone, iPad, and Mac book. I plan on using my iPad 
, but if I can’t I’m going to use the Mac. These are the new product I have bought. Epson 7110, with stock cartridges. I also bought a ciss system but have not hooked it up. I have a new cameo 3 along with the extra long 24” cutting board. I’ve got Pixlr and instalogo which I’m using for my programs. I’m only going to make shirts and mostly athletic jerseys etc. What programs do you recommend for me to use for logos, vectors and numbers? I’ve designed a couple of logos (simple vector style with only red and black colors) and printed them out and decided to run a few samples on my white 100% shirt. I pressed for 50seconds at 375 and ran 2 designs on this shirt. Both looked good on paper but when printed on shirt both were bright neon yellow barely visible. I’m new to all of this and thought paper was the issue and still may be. I’ve done all my test and nozzle checks etc and everything looks right. As I e said I’m new to all of this and I’ve got 10 plus hours, just getting to this step and still nothing to show lol! Please help me out on what is wrong? What kind of paper should I buy and am I running the press too long and hot? I’ve seen anywhere from a minute to 20seconds. Any help would greatly help me out thank you.


----------



## PatWibble

Coolhandlt said:


> After posting and not giving all the info, I decided to get back on here and try to explain a little more clearly. Or the best I know considering I’ve just got into this business. Here is some info on what I have goin on. I have a apple phone, iPad, and Mac book. I plan on using my iPad
> , but if I can’t I’m going to use the Mac. These are the new product I have bought. Epson 7110, with stock cartridges. I also bought a ciss system but have not hooked it up. I have a new cameo 3 along with the extra long 24” cutting board. I’ve got Pixlr and instalogo which I’m using for my programs. I’m only going to make shirts and mostly athletic jerseys etc. What programs do you recommend for me to use for logos, vectors and numbers? I’ve designed a couple of logos (simple vector style with only red and black colors) and printed them out and decided to run a few samples on my white 100% shirt. I pressed for 50seconds at 375 and ran 2 designs on this shirt. Both looked good on paper but when printed on shirt both were bright neon yellow barely visible. I’m new to all of this and thought paper was the issue and still may be. I’ve done all my test and nozzle checks etc and everything looks right. As I e said I’m new to all of this and I’ve got 10 plus hours, just getting to this step and still nothing to show lol! Please help me out on what is wrong? What kind of paper should I buy and am I running the press too long and hot? I’ve seen anywhere from a minute to 20seconds. Any help would greatly help me out thank you.


Still not giving enough details.

Do you mean that there is a yellow box around the print?

If you do then either there is an off white background to the design you are printing that needs to be set to transparent.

The other alternative is that you have been printing yellow Hivis jackets or bright yellow sportswear on the press, and it has left a residue on the platen. You probably wouldn't notice it when printing onto white cotton, but the temp used to sublimate will cause the ink to turn back to gas and stain your polyester shirt.

Try using a cover sheet between the platen and the garment. Parchment or baking paper is usually good.


----------



## Coolhandlt

I did use a Teflon sheet over my print. 
No the whole image is yellow., not just the paper and outline.
Since I ruined the shirt, i ran 2 more prints and both still did the same thing. 
If I knew anything about this blog I would send the picture of what the shirt looks like


----------



## Coolhandlt

One this I forgot to add i did this on my ipad, and wireless to Epson. I’m trying to add everything I can and not leave anything out.


----------



## minny67

In your 1st post you say you are using stock ink-you can not sublimate using stock inks, you need dye sublimation ink.


----------



## Coolhandlt

So the ink Cartridges that come stock with a sublimation printer aren’t sublimation inks?


----------



## Amw

Coolhandlt said:


> So the ink Cartridges that come stock with a sublimation printer aren’t sublimation inks?


In your 1st post you said you are using an Epson 7110 with stock inks. An epson 7110 comes with pigment inks from the factory (stock).

That is NOT a sublimation printer...its a pigment printer that can be converted to sublimation using AFTERMARKET refillable ink cartridges with dye sublimation ink in them. This is one reason your not getting much help. 

Did you buy refillable cartridges for that printer and dye sub ink for it?

Now if you are talking about t shirt transfers and just confused on the right terms... You can print using that printer with the stock ink for t shirt transfers. But if that is what you are referring to..it is NOT sublimation. 

Hopefully that helps you out, good luck!


----------



## PatWibble

Coolhandlt said:


> So the ink Cartridges that come stock with a sublimation printer aren’t sublimation inks?


Epson 7110 is just a regular inkjet printer that can be retrofitted with sublimation ink. It doesn't come with sub ink.

Unless you bought it from a supplier who specifically included sub inks then you are using standard ink.

If the cartridges say Epson on the side then you are not using sub ink.


----------



## Coolhandlt

Thanks guys for the help! I’ve printed on sublimation 14/8.5 and the image was yellow. I printed on the sublicotton 11/8.5 and it printed on the shirts well. (So I can use the stock ink with sublicotton paper but not on sublimation paper?) I’m printing a simple 2 color vector image so far. I’ve got the Epson and using the stock ink that came with it. I’ve got a ciss system and sublimation dye ink that I bought with the ciss system. What should I next? Use up what’s left in the cartridges and then use the ciss system? I heard I could have problems with the transition. Also what kind of temp and time should I use on the vinyl transfer on Shirts? Thanks for all the help guys! Going into this from scratch it’s been tuff but you guys have helped me out!


----------



## into the T

follow the instructions from your vinyl supplier,
there are different temp/times for each brand/type of vinyl


----------



## Coolhandlt

I contacted the seller and he said “we only sell supplies thus you need to look at YouTube or another outlet for your applications use”. So people, a general idea and I’ll run with it lol! Thanks


----------



## john221us

As stated earlier, the factory ink is NOT dye sublimation ink. You cannot use it for dye sublimation. If you bought dye sublimation ink and are using that now, make sure you have run enough ink through the print heads that you are completely on the new ink.

What brand of dye sublimation ink did you buy? The reputable vendors all offer ICC (color)profiles for their ink (I use Cobra ink). The ICC profile should help with color issues. This does not apply to sublicotton. I do not know anything about that. This only applies to sublimation paper and ink.


----------



## john221us

into the T said:


> follow the instructions from your vinyl supplier,
> there are different temp/times for each brand/type of vinyl


Heat press vinyl is a completely different animal and does not require a printer or ink. Just vinyl, a cutter and a heat press.


----------



## into the T

john221us said:


> Heat press vinyl is a completely different animal and does not require a printer or ink. Just vinyl, a cutter and a heat press.





Coolhandlt said:


> Also what kind of temp and time should I use on the *vinyl transfer* on Shirts?


_


Coolhandlt said:



I have a new *cameo 3* along with the extra long 24” cutting board.

Click to expand...

_so he either has an eco-solvent printer or he has cad-cut vinyl,
unless he means paper transfer and not vinyl transfer

which would make more sense, the 'vinyl' threw me off


----------



## Dekzion

john221us said:


> As stated earlier, the factory ink is NOT dye sublimation ink. You cannot use it for dye sublimation. If you bought dye sublimation ink and are using that now, make sure you have run enough ink through the print heads that you are completely on the new ink.
> 
> What brand of dye sublimation ink did you buy? The reputable vendors all offer ICC (color)profiles for their ink (I use Cobra ink). The ICC profile should help with color issues. This does not apply to sublicotton. I do not know anything about that. This only applies to sublimation paper and ink.


Subli-cotton uses dye sub ink only


----------



## Coolhandlt

Yes the vinyl thing might have been confusing. I’m also doing that too, I just wanted some info on that as well. On T-Shirts what temp and time should I be using? 
My stock ink has worked good on the sublicotton transfer paper. So when I hook up the ciss system it will work with the sublimation paper, but will it work with the sublicotton paper as well?


----------

