# ImageClip procedure



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Well, it's late, I'm tired and I printed 5 image clip sheets and forgot to reverse the image. These are my first ImageClip transfers. The directions say to reverse the image, but it looks to me like that would actually make it reversed on the shirt. If I print the imaging paper (red) normally, then press that to the transfer sheet (green), the image on the transfer sheet should be reversed, which would make it come out correct once pressed to the shirt.

What am I missing here? Do you reverse the image before printing?

Thanks....Ross


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## aportis (Jun 13, 2007)

Yes you will need to reverse (mirror) the image. The image you print should not transfer to the green transfer sheet, only the bankground polymer. After pressing your red imaging sheet and green transfer sheet at 215-220F, your image should remain on the red imaging sheet which you will later press onto your shirt at 400F.


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

To clarify,

I can see your confusion as I once pondered the same thing but after several hundred prints I sleep better now 

The green sheet is basicaly a sheet of adhesive.
When you press the red to green the adhesive from the green sheet bonds to the toner on the red sheet.
when you peel the two sheets apart the adhesive from the green sheet peels off - transfered to the red sheet. covering the image/toner image on the red sheet.

At no time (during the first pressing ie: red to green) does the image actually leave the red sheet.

After you peel the sheets you are still left with your transfer on the red sheet but the image/toner is now covered in poly adhesive. This is the magic of the papers.
since only the areas covered in the poly/adhesive will transfer to the garment.

Hope the slears things up.

Bill


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I see now. Thanks guys. I'll use the 5 screw-ups to practice with.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Well I tried pressing some imageclip with pretty poor results. Before I waste any more, I thought I'd show you some photos. The one on the right was 215*/10 (checked with a laser). The one on the left was 220*/12. The one on the left has A LOT of adhesive that transfered to the white areas. The one on the right has an unacceptable amount in the white, but less than the left. As you can see, the main issue is that there are large area where the adhesive is not bonding to the toner. The "adhesive in white area" issue is worse with more heat and time, but the uncovered areas of toner seem to be less.

I'm using an Oki C8800 with heavy paper setting and I'm peeling as hot as I can. Just as soon as I get the press up, I'm peeling.

Any ideas? I have a job to do today and I'd like to use imageclip. 

Thanks...Ross


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## rtarh2o (May 3, 2007)

I hope it is not the Oki printer because I am about to buy one myself. My experience with the image clip is that either the temp is too low or not enough pressure if the polymer doesn't stick to the toner. You said you had alot of polymer in the white areas also which is strange because with my printers (Minolta 5430 and old Panasonic) when it doesn't stick to the toner it also does not stick to the blank parts, this is what makes me think that it is having trouble sticking to the toner. It is very rare that I get a really clean transfer (meaning no polymer on the blank areas) but usually it is minimal. I would keep playing with the variables, your temp seems right so it must be pressure. I would say play with the press time but usually more time makes the polymer stick more to the blank areas too, sometimes I only press about 8 seconds. 
Is anyone else using the Oki printers with Image Clip?
Rusty


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Here is round two. There are two things going on here. (1) The adhesive is still not sticking to the toner in some areas and (2) there seems to be a feed roller track right in the middle, almost like a feed roller rolled through wet ink. I pressed this one at 215/10 but I preheated the lower platen for about 5 seconds hoping that would buy me some peel time in case that was an issue.

I think I have a toner problem. I did another print that came out of the printer very light. I pressed it and hardly any adhesive stuck to the toner. I think there has to be a quite a bit of toner there for the adhesive to stick. There must be a reaction between the adhesive and the toner and when the toner is light, the adhesive doesn't transfer.

I have the printer driver set to heavy paper. I'm going to try setting the printer itself through it's menu system to heavy. Other than that, I don't see any other way to get more toner down on the paper and if I did would it just make a "wet ink" mess.


I was under the impression that the Oki printer was on the top of the list as far as printing ImageClip. I hope it's just a simple setting that I've overlooked.


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

Have you tried actually applying any of these transfers to cloth? I have found that sometimes it will look like the polymer is not covering an area when it actually is. Also, the polymer in the unprinted areas may not be a big deal when printed. 

Also, check this thread for some great ImageClip technique and trick advice from Luis.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Yes...The areas that look like they have no polymer do not transfer. I've tried all sorts of different temp, times and printer settings and I keep getting the same results. Every now and then I'll peel a decent one, but the majority come out like the photo. The specks do show and they are quite noticeable.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

patchmaster said:


> To clarify,
> 
> I can see your confusion as I once pondered the same thing but after several hundred prints I sleep better now
> 
> ...


The same thing happen to another member. He has mistakenly assumed that the green paper was the one that is pressed on the shirt. The instruction is sort of ambiguous. I struggled with that also when I red the instruction the first time. I also thought the green paper, which was termed as "TRANSFERRING" paper, will be the one that is pressed on the shirt. But, going over the instruction a few times the instruction clearly states which paper to use for pressing (red).


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

When pressing the two sheets together, which goes on the bottom? Does it matter? I have the green on the bottom and the red on top closest to the platen.

I bumped my temp up to 225 and increased pressure and got a decent press, but there was too much polymer in the white area. Some areas of the white were completely covered, not just specks. A few specks are acceptable, but I'm getting more than 50% coverage on the white, which shows on the shirt worse than a polymer window. If I set my temp, time and pressure to reduce white area coverage, I get spotty coverage on the toner.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> Here is round two. There are two things going on here. (1) The adhesive is still not sticking to the toner in some areas and (2) there seems to be a feed roller track right in the middle, almost like a feed roller rolled through wet ink. I pressed this one at 215/10 but I preheated the lower platen for about 5 seconds hoping that would buy me some peel time in case that was an issue.
> 
> I think I have a toner problem. I did another print that came out of the printer very light. I pressed it and hardly any adhesive stuck to the toner. I think there has to be a quite a bit of toner there for the adhesive to stick. There must be a reaction between the adhesive and the toner and when the toner is light, the adhesive doesn't transfer.
> 
> ...


Two things could be causing your problem:

a) It seems that the pressure is not enough to force the polymer from green sheet on to the toner on the red sheet.

b) I think you have toner fusing problem. I red from one of the posts in the duracotton thread that some of the newer Oki printer the fuser does not get up to temp from cold start until few pages has been printed. It does not present a problem with regular paper but it is a problem using transfer paper.

I've had that problem with my Oki C5200Ne which is older model than yours. What I did to resolve that is, before I print on the transfer paper I print a file with space character on 10 blank sheets. Following that I also send the image file to the printer so that it would be sitting in the cue so that it will be ready immediately after the blank sheets are printed. Make sure you add 1 extra sheet to the number of copies to be printed. Before I feed the transfer paper to the printer I feed a bond paper to print the design. This will further insure that the fuser is at temp. You will waste some toner this way but you will be rest assured the transfer paper will not be wasted. I then proceed to print the rest of the transfer(s). I have added this in my process. Since then I do not have fusing problem.


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## aportis (Jun 13, 2007)

I am using an OKI C5100. When I originally purchased this Photo-Trans ImageClip transfer paper about two years ago, I was getting unacceptable results that I stopped using it. I recently purchased another heatpress and decided to give this paper another try. Now, I am getting excellent results when peeling the red and the green sheets 100% of the time using 225 for 20 seconds with heavy pressure.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> When pressing the two sheets together, which goes on the bottom? Does it matter? I have the green on the bottom and the red on top closest to the platen.
> 
> I bumped my temp up to 225 and increased pressure and got a decent press, but there was too much polymer in the white area. Some areas of the white were completely covered, not just specks. A few specks are acceptable, but I'm getting more than 50% coverage on the white, which shows on the shirt worse than a polymer window. If I set my temp, time and pressure to reduce white area coverage, I get spotty coverage on the toner.


Try putting the green paper on the top to see if you get better result.

To minimize the polymer transfered to unprinted area try using the cookie sheet technique that I posted in another thread. A member was successful using it.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

So running blank sheets through the printer heats up the fuser? I'll try that. Someone else posted success at 210*/10 with the green sheet on top. I think I'll try that also.


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## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

I was going to suggest a fuser problem also. Are you still getting the roller track? That could be related to a bad fusing unit, I think.

When I was using Duracotton, I had to run at least 5 sheets through before printing on my OKI 5500 or it would jam every time. The Imageclip doesn't jam, but I suspect that low fuser temps could still cause problems.


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

I too use fairly heavy pressure when pressing the two papers.
It's hard to judge as I use an older HIX model. 
I set my pressure with a shirt in the press, I don't stretch it around the platen by the way.
I use the same pressure when pressing the papers. it seems the difference in thickness between the shirts and the papers is enouph for me.

I use a Oki 5100 also and rarely do I get the problem outlined here, BUT I have had the same problem myself. It is usually after I adjust the pressure for some other project.
also, large covered areas seems to cause this to happen more often.
Light colors don't transfer well for me either, light muave color or light purple is the worst for me so far.

I have also noticed that within each of the 100 pack I order I get a few paperes that dont transfer to the red very well... I usually just tough it out for a few sheets before I adjust anything and more times than not the poly adhesion resolves.

Bill

PS. takes copius notes when changing and adjusting things.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I don't think it's the fuser. I'm printing Duracotton with no problems at all. I will still try running some blank paper through just to be sure though. I got the toner density issue worked out by some tweaking in the driver. Might just be a matter of time and temp. I'm also working with a large print with a lot of toner coverage on 11x17 paper. That could have something to do with it. If the peel temp is that critical, the paper could be cooling down enough half way through the peel to cause problems.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I did another print using ImageClip. This one was one color...Black. It is a bunch of 1.5"x4" logos on one 11x17 sheet. I tried Duracotton, but the fabric color is Khaki and the polymer window stuck out like a sore thumb. I found that 115/10 with heavy pressure seems to be the best balance between full toner coverage and white area coverage.

Here's the good part. The polymer fuses or adheres to the toner very well, but not to the white area. I took a straight razor blade and dragged the it across the design and it removed all of the polymer from the white but did not effect the printed area. I'm not sure if the same thing will work with colors. I hope it does.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> I took a straight razor blade and dragged the it across the design and it removed all of the polymer from the white but did not effect the printed area. I'm not sure if the same thing will work with colors. I hope it does.


Seems to be a lot of work especially with 11 X 17 paper. I would think that it is hard to control the razor pressure without the risk of damaging the transfer image especially when you get tired doing large amount of transfers. You ought to try the silicon cookie sheet bit. I printed two orders last night. I did not have any problem with polymer not bonding or excessive polymer specks in unprinted area using cookie sheet. One of the orders have light colors especially pink (pig) and mauve (olive) which other users claim to having problem with such light colors. Another advantage of the cookie sheet is the two papers peel like butter.

BTW prestretching the shirt before pressing the transfer definitely minimize cracking when post stretching the shirt.

Here is the design.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I did a small order today using ImageClip and "weeded" the excess polymer with a razor blade. It is time consuming, but no more time consuming that explaining to the customer why there are little specks all over the shirt and the finished product really does look great. I drag the blade across the paper so you can actually be quite aggressive. The polymer adheres to the toner really well.

I'm going to pick up a silicon baking sheet today and give your method a try. Can you tell me again what times, temps and pressures you use?

Thanks...Ross


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> I did a small order today using ImageClip and "weeded" the excess polymer with a razor blade. It is time consuming, but no more time consuming that explaining to the customer why there are little specks all over the shirt and the finished product really does look great. I drag the blade across the paper so you can actually be quite aggressive. The polymer adheres to the toner really well.
> 
> I'm going to pick up a silicon baking sheet today and give your method a try. Can you tell me again what times, temps and pressures you use?
> 
> Thanks...Ross


Here is the pictorial procedure http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p160268-post7.html

Please do me a favor. Whatever the outcome good, bad or indifferent post a feedback so others can benefit from it or avoid the process altogether. At least one member that I know is successful using the process.

In step 1 I mentioned light pressure. I used medium pressure also and it works. So, if you are having polymer void in printed area try setting the pressure between light and medium.

Thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Ross,

On a side not I forgot to mention that when pressing light color design (i.e. pink or any light color) or any toner color for that matter especially on 100% cotton the fibers tend to lift up after the transfer is peeled. Which may or may not show like the polymer/toner did not transfer. After I peel the transfer paper I cover the shirt with teflon sheet and press for 10 seconds to improve wash fastness. But before I do the post press I brush the fibers down with my palm in a diagonal direction towards the corner where the peel was started (in my case, I am right handed, it is the top left corner), then I do the aforementioned post press.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Absolutely amazing. I followed your procedure to the letter and got a near perfect first stage press. The second press had a bit more polymer specks, but still acceptable. I checked the press and it was 218, not 210. My DK20S tends to fluctuate 10 degrees during it's heating cycle. Third time I waited for the press to hit 210 on the laser and pressed the silicon sheet for 4 seconds instead of 5 and got a perfect press. No polymer transfer to the white at all. Near as I can tell, I'm using about medium pressure.

I owe you one for that tip....This should be added to the ImageClip instruction sheet.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> Absolutely amazing. I followed your procedure to the letter and got a near perfect first stage press. The second press had a bit more polymer specks, but still acceptable. I checked the press and it was 218, not 210. My DK20S tends to fluctuate 10 degrees during it's heating cycle. Third time I waited for the press to hit 210 on the laser and pressed the silicon sheet for 4 seconds instead of 5 and got a perfect press. No polymer transfer to the white at all. Near as I can tell, I'm using about medium pressure.
> 
> I owe you one for that tip....This should be added to the ImageClip instruction sheet.


Glad to hear that it worked for you also. That is two out of two that I know of. Well 3 if I count myself. Try pressing light color or fading to white design and see if you are getting polymer adhesion to the toner problem. I am inclined to think that this will also solve that problem. At least I am getting good adhesion even with light color and fading to white design. Light gray and light pink I am told are problematic to some users.

What I do to make sure that the press is up to temp I lower the upper platten on the bottom platten, but not locked, during warm up. By doing that both upper and lower platten will be at the same temp when the press displays the target temp. It will also minimize temp fluctuation. When I walk away for a while I also lower the upper platten to keep the lower platten same temp. Make sure the lower platten is covered with protective material. Teflon sheet is the best material.

Beware of laser thermometer if the one you have is sold by Harbor Freights. I bought one and end up returning it. The one I had was reading 40 to 45 degrees too high compared to the reading I got using industrial contact thermometer. The reading in the press digital temp display correlates with the contact thermometer. Yours though is only reading 8 degrees off. So, you probably have a good unit. Most of the members claim including me that the temp of their press read between 40 to 50 degrees too high. It is just too far off compared to contact thermometer.


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## rtarh2o (May 3, 2007)

I have tried the "cookie sheet" method on a few tests and it works flawlessly! I was getting a bit frustrated that I couldn't get any clean peels with the 2 sheets, this seems to be the answer. I have an actual order of about 150 shirts I will get to try it out on in the next day or two and will let you know if the results change any. The way I did my shirts was I laid the teflon sheet on the bottom plate and put the red/green sheets on top of it for the first press, then I lifted up the teflon sheet and slipped the red/green sheets under it for the second press, that way I didn't have to keep adjusting the pressure. 
Also I have one of the Harbor Freight laser thermometers and it is always within a few degrees of what my press says. That is pretty typical of the stuff they sell, if you buy 2-3 of any of it you will probably get one good one!
Rusty


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rtarh2o said:


> The way I did my shirts was I laid the teflon sheet on the bottom plate and put the red/green sheets on top of it for the first press, then I lifted up the teflon sheet and slipped the red/green sheets under it for the second press, that way I didn't have to keep adjusting the pressure.


I don't change the pressure on the second pressing of the 2 sheets. As a matter of fact the thickness of the cookie sheet helps add pressure that is applied to the polymer so that it will have better adhesion to the toner. I have good consistency with cookie sheet over teflon sheet. If it works for you using teflon though it will be a $32.00 some odd dollars savings that would have been spent on a cookie sheet. You have 150 pairs to try your way. It would be an alternative way of doing it. Thanks for the input.

Should you decide to use the silicon sheet you do not have to buy the same brand that I used. There are other cheaper brands. Just need to cut a corner or two for ease of grabbing the corner of the transfer paper.



rtarh2o said:


> Also I have one of the Harbor Freight laser thermometers and it is always within a few degrees of what my press says. That is pretty typical of the stuff they sell, if you buy 2-3 of any of it you will probably get one good one!
> Rusty


I guess I did not give the laser thermometer a fair chance and tried another unit. For what I have read from other posts that when measuring their temp with laser device the readings are high about 40 to 50 degrees higher. That kinda give me the impression that the device has an error since I was getting the same reading when in fact my press display correlates with contact thermometer within few degrees. As I noted in my previous post that Ross must have a good unit since his reading is only 8 degrees from his press temp reading. My previous post is sort of a warning that's all.

Nice to hear that you concur with the process. Good luck with your upcoming large order.

Thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rtarh2o said:


> The way I did my shirts was I laid the teflon sheet on the bottom plate and put the red/green sheets on top of it for the first press, then I lifted up the teflon sheet and slipped the red/green sheets under it for the second press, that way I didn't have to keep adjusting the pressure.


I don't change the pressure on the second pressing of the 2 sheets. As a matter of fact the thickness of the cookie sheet helps add pressure that is applied to the polymer so that it will have better adhesion to the toner. I have good consistency with cookie sheet over teflon sheet. If it works for you using teflon though it will be a $32.00 some odd dollars savings that would have been spent on a cookie sheet. You have 150 pairs to try your way. It would be an alternative way of doing it. Thanks for the input.

Should you decide to use the silicon sheet you do not have to buy the same brand that I used. There are other cheaper brands. Just need to cut a corner or two for ease of grabbing the corner of the transfer paper.



rtarh2o said:


> Also I have one of the Harbor Freight laser thermometers and it is always within a few degrees of what my press says. That is pretty typical of the stuff they sell, if you buy 2-3 of any of it you will probably get one good one!
> Rusty


I guess I did not give the laser thermometer a fair chance and tried another unit. For what I have read from other posts that when measuring their temp with laser device the readings are high about 40 to 50 degrees higher. That kinda give me the impression that the device has an error since I was getting the same reading when in fact my press display correlates with contact thermometer within few degrees. As I noted in my previous post that Ross must have a good unit since his reading is only 8 degrees from his press temp reading. My previous post is sort of a warning that's all.

Nice to hear that you concur with the process. Good luck with your upcoming large order.

Thanks.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

I'm not using teflon at all. I press the two papers with red on top, lift press, place the silicon mat on the stack and press again.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> I'm not using teflon at all. I press the two papers with red on top, lift press, place the silicon mat on the stack and press again.


You do not change the pressure either for the 2 pressings right? At least it was not part of the process.

My take on rtarh2o's post is that he used teflon sheet instead of silicon cookie sheet. He moved the red/green sheets from top to bottom of the teflon sheet for first and second pressing respectively. He said it works for him. It was not consistent when I tried it that is why I went with the cookie sheet.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

lnfortun said:


> You do not change the pressure either for the 2 pressings right?


Right...I make the second pressing right after the first. The pressure on the second is actually slightly more because of the thickness of the baking sheet, but that does not seem to be an issue.


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Here is a design done with ImageClip that has a very pronounced black to white gradient. It looks OK, but just OK. The very light part of the gradient as it starts to really fade off to white sort of gets lost. The other photo is the same image printed on Duracotton HT. The gradients are much better, but there is a polymer window. I think the thing to do with ImageClip is to try to limit the "fade to white" gradients as much as possible.

Bike2 = Original
Bike3 = ImageClip press
Bike4 = DuraCottonHT press


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## rtarh2o (May 3, 2007)

I did say teflon on my report about the image clip procedure. I actually used a silicon sheet I got with my press. It is about half again as thick as the cookie sheets, I have one of those also and could use it if the thicker sheet turns out not to work out so well on my next orders. 
I assumed the pressure had something to do with too much polymer transfering to the blank areas of the image? I wonder why they say to use a light pressure? I haven't had a problem with just the few I have done so far using the silicone pad and light pressure but will try a little more pressure next time and see what happens, do you think it matters if I use a bit more pressure on both presses?
About the dark to light fades, I occassionally have a few images I use my TTC 3.1 on if there is alot of fades but I assume if the end user doesn't see what the original looked like they will never now it is fading more than it is suppossed to. It would worry me if it faded more after washing, but it doesn't appear to do that so I am happy with it when it looks ok when not compared to the original. 
Rusty


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> Here is a design done with ImageClip that has a very pronounced black to white gradient. It looks OK, but just OK. The very light part of the gradient as it starts to really fade off to white sort of gets lost. The other photo is the same image printed on Duracotton HT. The gradients are much better, but there is a polymer window. I think the thing to do with ImageClip is to try to limit the "fade to white" gradients as much as possible.
> 
> Bike2 = Original
> Bike3 = ImageClip press
> Bike4 = DuraCottonHT press


Actually the Imageclip is not all that bad. If you notice that Duracotton has less toner transferred compared to Imageclip. I sort of say to coin a phrase Imageclip is "More opaque". I don't have the shirts in front of me but it seems the width of the tire shadow between the two shirts are pretty close. However, the Imageclip is darker so the fade is not as gradual as the Duracotton. Did you change the saturation for Duracotton? The reason I am asking is Ken of Duracotton said his transfer paper does not hold very well with excessive toner. That is why he is reluctant in recommending Konica Minolta for Duracotton.

I think if lighten the dark part of the gradient the pressed image will look better.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

rtarh2o said:


> I did say teflon on my report about the image clip procedure. I actually used a silicon sheet I got with my press. It is about half again as thick as the cookie sheets, I have one of those also and could use it if the thicker sheet turns out not to work out so well on my next orders.


Thanks for clearing up the confusion. I thought you were just using teflon sheet and nothing else.

Hey, maybe you are on to something here. Have you tried your technique without doing the second pressing? Since the silicon sheet was hot and putting it over the red/green will be enough retained heat to prevent the papers from cooling down way too fast. The idea of the second pressing is primarily to heat up the silicon sheet the added pressure, because of the thichness of the silicon sheet, is sort of a bonus. I think I am going to try that. That will save time if it works.



> I assumed the pressure had something to do with too much polymer transferring to the blank areas of the image? I wonder why they say to use a light pressure? I haven't had a problem with just the few I have done so far using the silicone pad and light pressure but will try a little more pressure next time and see what happens, do you think it matters if I use a bit more pressure on both presses?


 
If you are getting good result with light pressure then I would suggest to stick with it. I suggested the range between light and medium pressure (ball park figure) because some users are having problem with polymer adhesion. Too much pressure will transfer excessive polymer in unprinted area and too little will cause polymer void on the printed area.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Well I tried the no second pressing by moving the red/green papers under the hot silicon sheet then peel and I got mixed results. The first try I got really good result. So, I got all excited and thought I am on to something. However, out of 10 pairs I've tried I got 2 good ones. The good part is no polymer in the open areas. It is either too much polymer in the printed area with void or the polymer amount is just right with void. I tried different settings of dwell time and pressure but it did not help. Having the green sheet on top helped a little. What I think is happening is as soon as the papers leave the platten to insert it under the silicon sheet the polymer has already cooled down that the heat of the silicon sheet was not enough to keep it in soft state.

I did the old 2 pressing process and I got 2 out of 2 excellent peel.


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## soulethal (Sep 4, 2006)

rrc62 said:


> Well, it's late, I'm tired and I printed 5 image clip sheets and forgot to reverse the image. These are my first ImageClip transfers. The directions say to reverse the image, but it looks to me like that would actually make it reversed on the shirt. If I print the imaging paper (red) normally, then press that to the transfer sheet (green), the image on the transfer sheet should be reversed, which would make it come out correct once pressed to the shirt.
> 
> What am I missing here? Do you reverse the image before printing?
> 
> Thanks....Ross


where can i purchase the image clip transfer paper from


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

soulethal said:


> where can i purchase the image clip transfer paper from


Coastal Business Supplies - has link in the forum under Peferred Vendors List
South East Specialty - Transfer paper, heat transfer paper, inkjet transfer paper, t shirt transfer paper
The Paper Ranch - Heat Transfer, Dye Sublimation and Engraving Equipment & Supplies Source
Conde System - Condé Systems, Inc. - The digital imprinting specialists.

I suggest that you shop around. Some offers the lowest price plus free shipping.


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

Beautiful thread all... Luis, Ross, Rusty, Bill, ...
I may have finally found the paper for my LIGHTs...

What shirt types/blends were tested and what other types would work?
What Printers ? Printer parameters?
What Inks/Toner (OEM, Proprietary, or Dye Sub Toner?)

Have I not seen a thread where Imageclip and airwave opaque combine to do dark shirts?

If Dye sub inks are not needed for Ceramics and Ceramic Mugs then I could use this paper ? or am I dreaming?


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## NicMartel (Sep 13, 2007)

I must say that experiencing this thru all of you wants to feel as real as if I was at the press myself... I am dying to start my trial run... Just need to get the equipment.


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## kmyck1 (Feb 20, 2007)

patchmaster said:


> To clarify,
> 
> I can see your confusion as I once pondered the same thing but after several hundred prints I sleep better now
> 
> ...


I am trying Image Clip for the first time after having little success with the Duracotton HT. When pulling the papers apart after pressing, is there supposed to be any toner on the green sheet? I just did my first press and when I pulled the sheets apart quite a bit of the toner went to the green sheet from the red one.

Thanks,
Kimberly


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## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

You may be letting the paper cool too much before peeling...or the toner may not be fusing properly. The link below is for a procedure that Luis came up with and it works. Keep in mind that this procedure in time, temperature and pressure sensitive. A few points off on either will effect the results. It's a fairly technically demanding paper to use, but the results are worth it.

The toner should stay on the red sheet. Polymer from the green sheet should transfer to the toner on the red sheet.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p160268-post7.html


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