# Should I Wash Shirts After Curing?



## SoCoastal (Jul 24, 2017)

The first run of shirts I did was on 90% polyester and I had washout issues. The second run I used cotton and it was cracking. 

I am learning and can’t afford proper equipment. I am printing, blow drying for a minute, and ironing for 4.5 minutes. It’s not efficient, but it’s what I can do right now. 

Will washing the shirts after I cure them prevent cracking? What recommendations do you guys have?

Thank you and have an awesome day


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

Washing will test them, but won't prevent anything.

A low-end heat press will ensure even temp and even coverage when curing. Look for a used one in your area.


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## SoCoastal (Jul 24, 2017)

Okay thank you. What could the cracking be from? I’m using a water based ink. It is speedball ink. Should I purchase higher end? Am I applying too much ink?


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

Probably undercured.

I made my first prints back in the early 90s with Speedball ... but something like Green Galaxy will probably give you better results.


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## culturdcustoms (Feb 13, 2018)

I have learned that Speedball white ink is just not good. Nothing I did made it work properly. Still got cracking after wash and strething shirt. Although it does give that vintage look it what I have been told. The black has worked fine for me. Haven't tried my red, green, yellow and blue yet. Recently I purched Ryonet white galaxy ink. Looking forward to trying it with the DYI press they sell


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

Washing the shirts gives them a "used" look. I would definitely not do that.

Check out Nazdar PX series ink. It's an air dry ink that has similar properties to plastisol but it cures without heat. I used to use it before I bought a flash unit.
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## SouthwestSP (Sep 21, 2012)

Your ink is not getting cured. It absolutely has to reach 320 degrees to the bottom of your print, which means 330-340 at the surface. A hair dryer will not get it done. You can use a heat gun, but you have to gauge the temp as you do so with a thermo gun to ensure you are reaching temp. Any spot that didn't reach temp will crack and/or wash out. After curing do a stretch test.....the print should stretch with the material like rubber. If it cracks, it's not cured and will wash out. 
Printing on polyester is another animal entirely....a little more goes into it. You can get away with printing regular plastisol on a 50/50 cotton/polyester blend but you have to watch out for dye sublimation when printing a light colored ink on a dark colored shirt. This is when the dye in the shirt mixes with the ink and your white print will be a shade of gray on a black shirt....or it will be pink on a red shirt, etc. You can overcome sublimation by doing a print/flash/print which means printing the first layer, half curing it (not to full temp.), then printing a second layer.
When printing on full or mostly polyester blends (like your 90/10), you need to use plastisol for polyester or add a polyester additive to your regular plastisol. Both of these lower the curing temp. to reduce or eliminate sublimation and melting the polyester.
You didn't experience any of these issues because you were not reaching curing temp. Same applies to water based inks for the most part.

Hope this helps,
Scott


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