# Epson Printhead Screwed - New Out of Box!



## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

I purchased a new printhead for my Neo & fitted it 19th August.

This was the very first print after bringing the inks through.










and the colour









a very short video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ5OqemEjmo&feature=youtu.be

You can clearly see how the white ink is being contaminated.

I guessed this was caused by delamination of the printhead as I've seen similar before, BUT, this was the first print from a brand new printhead!!!

As a last resort, I changed the dampers but alas, same problem was apparent.

The Tigers at All American are also of the view the printhead is screwed!

So I contacted the supplier for a replacement and have sent the head back to them as requested. I offered to pay for another printhead to speed up the process. I did this anyway as keeping a spare isn't such a bad idea.

This morning, I received the following message/email from the supplier:

'We have been notified today from Epson that our F187000 Printhead Quotas have been reduced.
*Our next allocation will not be till at the earliest February 2013.*
We can keep your printhead on back order till that time if required but if you want to cancel and see if anyone has spare Printheads or quota capacity then we will understand
We apologise for the inconvenience but it is totally out of our control.
You also have other items on back order, will you still require these?'

I know Epson are restricting the supply of printheads and I understand their reasons for doing so, but this is rediculous!

  

How are others finding the supply chain?


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## estrada (Jun 5, 2009)

DX5 print heads are either low in stock or too expensive. The good news is that you can buy any new epson printer and remove the print head. Any epson r1900, r2000, r3000 or r2880 use the same 8 channel dx5 printhead as the 4880. Of course the cheapest one would be the r1900. 

Before I install a new printhead I flush every channel with cleaning fluid to make sure that each channel is not clog and the head is not delaminated.

May I ask how long did your print head last?


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

estrada said:


> DX5 print heads are either low in stock or too expensive. The good news is that you can buy any new epson printer and remove the print head. Any epson r1900, r2000, r3000 or r2880 use the same 8 channel dx5 printhead as the 4880. Of course the cheapest one would be the r1900.


Thanks for that info. I wasn't sure which printers had the DX5.



estrada said:


> Before I install a *new* printhead I flush every channel with cleaning fluid to make sure that each channel is not clog and the head is not delaminated.


Can you clarify what you mean by 'new'? Do you mean brand new from Epson as mine was?

I'm guessing you visually check for delamination in the same way as I do:

1. Making sure cleaning fluid when syringed into one of the 8 tips doesn't squirt out from another?

2. Cleaning fluid only comes out of the one channel being irrigated?

Any other?



estrada said:


> May I ask how long did your print head last?


About 18 months. I then fitted a new one that lasted about a month followed by the latest, fitted brand new on 19th August and didn't make one print!!!!
The contamination in the pictures above was worse if the printer had been left standing for a while. If I printed one shirt after another, the contamination was less evident. It's as if a build up of leaking ink!

I've now sent that one back today, but I'm not holding my breath!


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## estrada (Jun 5, 2009)

Stitch-Up said:


> Can you clarify what you mean by 'new'? Do you mean brand new from Epson as mine was?
> 
> I'm guessing you visually check for delamination in the same way as I do:
> 
> ...


Yes brand new from epson. Although you can buy a used printer and flush the print head as well. I've done that too. It works fine.

I check the print head exactly as you explained. There is no other way to do it as fas as I know.



Stitch-Up said:


> About 18 months. I then fitted a new one that lasted about a month followed by the latest, fitted brand new on 19th August and didn't make one print!!!!
> The contamination in the pictures above was worse if the printer had been left standing for a while. If I printed one shirt after another, the contamination was less evident. It's as if a build up of leaking ink!
> 
> I've now sent that one back today, but I'm not holding my breath!


Whenever I change print heads, I usually change the hoses, cartridges/dampers and white ink. If you have white bluid up in any of those parts, they will eventually clog you print head again. Perhaps that is what happend with your second printhead?


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

No, my 2nd printhead delaminated and exhibited the same contaminated print as in the pictures! When I then replaced the 2nd head with the 3rd and it too, was also contaminated I was sceptical that the diagnosis of delamination was correct. What other explanation?


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## estrada (Jun 5, 2009)

I've been through at least 20 different print heads either new, used or clogged. I've never come across one that is delaminated. Even after several hours of trying to unclog a channel with excessive force it would not delaminate (although it is possible). The probability of having 2 band new delaminated print heads would be very small. Also if your print head was delaminated, the ink would come out from the sides of the printhead, not from the nozzles of another channel.

There is definitely another source of contamination. Most likely in the capping station. or one of your channels (perhaps magenta) is dripping and that causes the contamination to the otther channels. You coudl try this: do a head clean and turn off and disconnect the machine. Move the carriage to the center and see if any drops form on the nozzle plate.


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## BQChris (Aug 16, 2012)

I have to go with estrada on this one. In all my years working in this industry, I can count on both hands how many times I have dealt with a de-laminated print head. And I always worked in repair/customer support, so I have handled hundreds. Not that it is impossible but two in a row says to me something else is going on.

I would start looking at everything up to the print head. I am thinking a damper is leaking. Was there any excess ink on the nibs or top of the last print head? Or, the new one for that matter? After doing a clean, is there droplets of ink left on the print head? Does it do this on other images?

Also, check to ensure that you are using the correct screws for attaching the print head to the carriage unit. They are smaller than the other Epson plastic screws. If the wrong screw is in there, it can cause the print head to sit incorrectly in the carriage unit, and therefore, the dampers will not sit correctly.


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

Thanks guys

I also find it so difficult to believe ........

I have changed all the dampers, capping station and wiper blade. Yesterday, I gave it a final go before packaging and returning the printhead. Prior to re-fitting it, I flushed it with cleaning fluid and didn't notice any problem whatsoever. So I re-fitted, did a powerclean to get the inks through and printed a block of white = same dirty contamination!

Chris, you're probably right - I did have to use one larger screw to secure the printhead as the correct one had lost it's thread in the plastic. Perhaps this is where the problem lies?

Is there a solution, temporary or permanent? Any part numbers to replace?

Cheers

John


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## BQChris (Aug 16, 2012)

Stitch-Up said:


> Is there a solution, temporary or permanent? Any part numbers to replace?


Unfortunately, this means the carriage unit needs to be replaced. At least, that bottom covering. I have been able to temporarily fix it by forcibly screwing the screw down so that the print head can not wiggle or so that it is secure in that casing. Be careful because stripping the hole is very likely. Don't turn it past the point that the print head is secured to the casing. Take it slow and you should be able to get it secured to the point that the issue will go away enough to print.

So, the covering will have to replaced. Mind as well grab a bunch of new screws while you are at it. Another component that DTG'ers should have backups of. Sucks that no one warned you of this, as it is something that most people don't know and should be made aware of when purchasing a print head. But, at least, now you know. 

Good luck and let me know if there is anything more I can do to help out.


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## BQChris (Aug 16, 2012)

Here is what Epson calls the covering......Carriage,C,C593....not sure the exact part number for 4880's. As for the screw, can't find any names for them. I just always called them the print head screw. I'll keep looking and let you know if I find anything.


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## allamerican-aeoon (Aug 14, 2007)

Maybe they old refurbished? 
Big company?


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

Thanks Chris

I'll take a look at the parts manual too. It'll be the top plastic cover, probably the one that's more difficult to change over! The part number is 1290785 & the screws 1284487. The bottom plastic cover is 1298921. Off to place my order. I'm half inclined to ask them to send the printhead back!
 

Wheen you mentioned the screws, it jogged my memory - I recall one of the small screws falling out one day as I was printing! When I tried to put the screw back, there was no grip, as if the plastic hole had been stripped. I replaced with a larger screw and forgot about it. This all might coincide with when my problems started 

Cheers

John


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## BQChris (Aug 16, 2012)

If it is those screws on the bottom that holds the covering that the print head sits in to the carriage part that holds the dampers(Carriage,B). Yep, a pain to change. If it is the screws that hold the print head to the casing that is the bottom(Carriage,C). Easy fix. Either way, both having the wrong screw will give you the issue of cross contamination.


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

I've ordered all the parts Chris and a few for spares too as they're not overly expensive.

Thanks for your help and the reminder about the screws - maybe until they arrive, I can use drill through the plasticovers and use small bolts to hold the sandwich together - nothing to lose!

Have you actually witnessed this isse Chris?

John


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## BQChris (Aug 16, 2012)

Yep, mainly on the 4800 series of printers. One of the best temporary solutions I have had a customer do is use epoxy to re-fill the holes until they could replace the whole carriage unit. Place a bit of good plastic epoxy in the holes, being careful to not let it overfill. You want the newly filled hole to be even with the carriage unit hole. 

Once it has cured, take a small drill bit, smaller in diameter than the screw, and re-drill a hole. No deeper than the screw and voila! I did not personally do this but had a customer wonder if it could be done. We figured why not since the whole thing had to be changed anyway. It worked. Might be worth a shot.


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

Well, I have to apologies to Epson - it's NOT the printhead!

I fitted a brand new printhead today and this is the first test with whute ink










Youcan cleary see, as in the other pictures, the contaminaion of the white! t starts of printinga good white layer but as the print progresses, it gets contaminated.

This is baffling me and I don't know the answer! Fitted new printhead, new dampers, new screws. Lies are clean .....

The answer will be something simple - I hope


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## Resolute DTG (Jun 27, 2010)

Stitch-Up said:


> Well, I have to apologies to Epson - it's NOT the printhead!
> 
> I fitted a brand new printhead today and this is the first test with whute ink
> 
> ...


I have fixed this problem on numerous occasions, the capping station is not holding its vacuum. Mixed up ink is syphoning back up into the nozzles. Without inspecting the printer I cannot guarantee it is this but I think you will find this is the cause.

Hope this helps.


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

I'm embarrassed to disclose the solution! 

You're probably right Colin - all caused by poor maintenance in my case.

I'm alway careful to inspect and clean the parts I can see - capping station, wiper blade, printhead ramps and surrounding areas.

Today I totally dismantled the capping station and all beneath - geez, it was clogged with ink that had turned to a rubbery mess over time. I spent hours thoroughly cleaning every part, removing all 'congealed' ink and clearing waste ink escape channels. Rebuilt everything and presto - printing like new again!

I'm so cross that I didn't do this before but hindsight's a wonderful thing.

The lesson I've learned from this is that occasionally the printer requires a deep clean not just the daily and weekly maintenance.

Thanks to everyone who's posted comments and suggestions - all part of the learning curve.


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

Are there any good videos on removing and reinstalling the capping station and cleaning the wiper assembly and adjoining areas?

I'd be so grateful for something like that.


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## ken692 (Aug 14, 2008)

Htt130 did you find any good videos on removing and reinstalling the capping station


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

ken692 said:


> Htt130 did you find any good videos on removing and reinstalling the capping station


I have a good tech document for removing the pump assembly (capping station). PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.


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## ozstockman (Dec 23, 2010)

estrada said:


> I've been through at least 20 different print heads either new, used or clogged. I've never come across one that is delaminated. Even after several hours of trying to unclog a channel with excessive force it would not delaminate (although it is possible). .


I totally agree. I am using an epson printhead with solvent inks and I have never seen the print head delaminated. I cannot imagine what needs to be done to delaminate the printead.


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## JeridHill (Feb 8, 2006)

ozstockman said:


> I totally agree. I am using an epson printhead with solvent inks and I have never seen the print head delaminated. I cannot imagine what needs to be done to delaminate the printead.


I'm not sure if it's faulty workmanship in the head manufacturing process or the chemicals used for cleaning etc.

We have a Versacamm that uses the DX5 head and I never clean or maintain it. It's using the eco-solvent inks and after about a year, the head is now delaminated. I have to print an additional row of decals for the ink to flow through in order to get it working correctly. I imagine I could do a head clean first, but either way, it's clearly delaminated, and again, I never manually clean it. Workmanship? Inks? Or just bum luck? Either way, it does happen.


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## ozstockman (Dec 23, 2010)

I had used Versacamm for a few months. I guess they are just heavy used printers and may be that's why it can happen with their print heads. Mine flatbed is based on Epson 1290 and I have eco solvent ink in it for 6 months. It can only get clogged when it is hot(it can get up to 40-42 degrees here in Melbourne) and I am not using it for a 2 days. And even in cases like this I can clean the head completely within a few cleaning cycles. No sings of delamination or anything close to it. As the matter of fact I have used one printhead with regular dye ink and solvent ink. I just flushed all lines, bottles and nozzles from regular ink with alcohol until its clean and then installed eco solvent ink.

Sure I replaced a few broken print heads in the past in my flatbed printer but 90% of them was broken because of mistakes I made not because of inks or delamination. 

I do not know may be it's just a good model of Epson print heads used in Epson 1290 or it is just my luck.


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## NZACO (Jan 21, 2012)

Hi John
What supplier are you using for print heads?
Are they in the UK?


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## FulStory (Jun 5, 2013)

hi, eco-solvent ink u mean is which brand?


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## FulStory (Jun 5, 2013)

estrada said:


> I've been through at least 20 different print heads either new, used or clogged. I've never come across one that is delaminated. Even after several hours of trying to unclog a channel with excessive force it would not delaminate (although it is possible). The probability of having 2 band new delaminated print heads would be very small. Also if your print head was delaminated, the ink would come out from the sides of the printhead, not from the nozzles of another channel.
> 
> There is definitely another source of contamination. Most likely in the capping station. or one of your channels (perhaps magenta) is dripping and that causes the contamination to the otther channels. You coudl try this: do a head clean and turn off and disconnect the machine. Move the carriage to the center and see if any drops form on the nozzle plate.


Hi estrada, how come u need to change 20 print head? that is too over. can I know how you do the cleaning process? Can you teach me? I have heard people using Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner to clean it, dont know is it true or not.


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## ozstockman (Dec 23, 2010)

FulStory said:


> hi, eco-solvent ink u mean is which brand?


I have got these inks from China, pretty cheap and quite good. If you need more details let me know and I will find their email address.

I still have a lot of these inks left for Freejet 290. If you need them pm me. I am in Australia.


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## FulStory (Jun 5, 2013)

estrada said:


> I've been through at least 20 different print heads either new, used or clogged. I've never come across one that is delaminated. Even after several hours of trying to unclog a channel with excessive force it would not delaminate (although it is possible). The probability of having 2 band new delaminated print heads would be very small. Also if your print head was delaminated, the ink would come out from the sides of the printhead, not from the nozzles of another channel.
> 
> There is definitely another source of contamination. Most likely in the capping station. or one of your channels (perhaps magenta) is dripping and that causes the contamination to the otther channels. You coudl try this: do a head clean and turn off and disconnect the machine. Move the carriage to the center and see if any drops form on the nozzle plate.


did you see my reply? why you need 20 printheads? within how long time? I hope you can share with us as maybe you have enough experience on this.


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## estrada (Jun 5, 2009)

FulStory said:


> did you see my reply? why you need 20 printheads? within how long time? I hope you can share with us as maybe you have enough experience on this.


I've been through 20 printheads because we have used many printer through out the years. A print head should last you 1-2 years with proper maintenance.


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## FulStory (Jun 5, 2013)

estrada said:


> I've been through 20 printheads because we have used many printer through out the years. A print head should last you 1-2 years with proper maintenance.


alright. 1-2 years is good enough for me. If it can last more than half year then should be not a big trouble on the cash flow.


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

I'm still using my original Epson print head and we're going on 4 years now. No problems other than regular maintenance, a damper changeout and a waterfall or two. Still prints fine today although the electronics on the machine are acting weird lately.


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## Stitch-Up (May 26, 2007)

HTT130 said:


> I'm still using my original Epson print head and we're going on 4 years now. No problems other than regular maintenance, a damper changeout and a waterfall or two. Still prints fine today although the electronics on the machine are acting weird lately.


What's your setup and what would be your daily maintenance schedule?

Do you use white ink?

Cheers

John


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

M&R I-Dot early version Epson 4880 based. Converted to CMYK only, disabled white ink and reverted to CMYK only RIP from M&R.

Getting rid of the white ink solved SO many issues. There is no way I would ever buy another DTG that printed white ink. With all the maintenance and pretreat time needed, our ROI was next to nothing and the hands on work involved was more than any other process we use around our shop.


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## Smalzstein (Jul 22, 2008)

Printing white requires skill and patience but do not demonize it so much


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

Smalzstein said:


> Printing white requires skill and patience but do not demonize it so much


Yeah, well all that skill and patience is for the casual hobbyist. For a true business model, all that results in loss ROI and unless you are in business to just have fun and work your a$$ off and not make a decent return on your money, you're just spinning your wheels.

Do a cost analysis of printing 12"x12" full color designs on black shirts and take everything into account. I didn't even get through the full analysis before it hit me square in the face that producing these shirts was taking more time than a decent margin could accommodate.

Unless you can sell shirts for $30/ea., you just can't make it work.

Math doesn't lie.

I'm not demonizing anything. I'm just stating facts.


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

$2.50/ Ringspun black shirt (average)
$2.00 12x12" of solid white ink base (using most expensive scenario)
$0.75 CMYK Ink " " " 
$1.00 Pretreat (if even that much)
$0.20 Parchment Paper 
= *$6.45/shirt* 


So if you are selling from an online store for around $20/ shirt (customer pays shipping) you are raking in $14.45/ per item

...Sounds great for an internet based company. White ink is not bad, it just isn't plug and play. And I am glad these machines are not plug and play, or else there would be T-shirt Kiosks on every corner selling generic shirts that say: *"Aye Shes Mine Bro"...* or *"Drunk 1"* and *"Drunk 2"*...

Sorry guys... I know this is an old thread


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## estrada (Jun 5, 2009)

ghostofmedusa said:


> $2.00 12x12" of solid white ink base (using most expensive scenario)
> $0.75 CMYK Ink " " "
> $1.00 Pretreat (if even that much)


Most expensive scenario for a 12x12 using a resolution of 1440x1400 for bright colors would be around $6 depending on your white ink cost per liter.

$2 dollars would be the average using a 30% coverage. Of course this depends on the design.

Pretreat would be about $0.5


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## HumbleShirts (Sep 7, 2007)

You guys aren't taking in to account for time. That's the real problem.

Pretreat
Heat Press
Load
Print Pass (White)
Print Pass (Color)
Heat Press

And you can't forget about all the maintenance and time needed to maintain that equipment. I spend more time in labor maintaining that DTG machine than I do my regular automatic press. It's a nightmare. And having to run nozzle checks is flushing ink down the drain.

It takes 4-6 minutes if you take in account all the time from pretreat to folding to complete a shirt. That's about 10 shirts per hour. Do you have any overhead? Rent? Consumables?

You can't jive me. I know better. It's not so bad if you take white ink out of the equation because you can get more volume through the process in the same amount of time.


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

No Jive'n you, bloodclot.. 

I did some test runs last night. I did a couple 10x14 designs on black. Here was my flow chart and time line:

pre-press before pretreat (_I don't know why I am doing this, just trying things out_) about 2 minutes (_have to walk to the garage pretreat station_).

Spraying Shirt - 1 minute

Pretreat Heat Cure - 1 minute

Total print time (WUB and CMYK) 5:45 mins

Curing print - 2x intervals of 1:30 (total = 3 mins)

Folded (then rolled into tight rolls) and bagged 30 secs

12 mins total for me so far, but I am a rookie, and much slower than most for sure.

So, about 5 shirts per hour, at $14 profit per tee = $70 per hour x 5 hours = $350 a day profit!

5 days a week x $350/day x4 weeks = $7000 a month of pure profit. 
$84000 a year... To not have to answer to anyone, or deal with corporate politics anymore. I wouldn't walk away from that, I could care less about wasting a little ink and cleaning a capping station several times daily. I like that it is not _plug and play_. Actually enjoy the maintenance 

If you take my slow approach and work 8 hours a day, and add one more day a week:
$70x 8 hrs x 6 days x 4 weeks = $13440/ month
$161,280.00/year... Just to clean a machine for 3 hours a day... There are worse jobs in life... White ink aint so bad. 

Even if you are paying $30K/year for Rent and Electricity in some Industrial Business park (my situation), you will still have $130K left over
Keep in mind, this is all based on if you are selling tees at $20 a shot, and subtracting out the cost for Ink, Pretreat, and Tee. Which I have figured out to be around $6/shirt (my situation)

After pulling credit for a living for 10 years, and getting a very detailed look at how most people earn a living, I'd say anyone would be ecstatic with $80K/year profit... just for cleaning a Direct to Garment printer all day... fulfilling a few orders a day of off the internet... While watching tv... Being at home and available to play with kids....
Need a couple machines too..


I may not be a master DTG printer yet, but I am definitely a master of putting things in perspective... 100 shirts a week, spread out over 5 days is still a $96K a year... and that is only printing 20 shirts a day, that's very low. Most DTG owners are doing it from home anyway


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

Another thing to consider... 

I took a recent poll while observing people with printed t-shirts in public. I found that out of 30 random t-shirts junkies, a staggering 95% of all that I saw were on dark colored or black shirts... 

I also took a poll at home of my own stack of printed tees (that I have acquired over the years). I only had one "light" colored Tee with anything printed on it, and that was a free "company" tee. 

People prefer darker Tees... And it would behoove any printer to become a master at using White ink, and becoming a slave to cleaning regimens. I guarantee all the major DTG distributors didn't know how to print dark tees 6 years ago. And look at them all now. You don't see a lousy print from a distributor... They all mastered it, they're just people like you and me. Not ink scientists.

Sorry, this all just occurred to me after reading the last reply..


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

HumbleShirts said:


> And you can't forget about all the maintenance and time needed to maintain that equipment. I spend more time in labor maintaining that DTG machine than I do my regular automatic press. It's a nightmare. And having to run nozzle checks is flushing ink down the drain.


 
Just remember: "All machines were not made equally". And if your first DTG experience was with a machine that had you running more cleanings than printing tees, then that is a manufacturer issue. The machine should not need that much attention if being ran consistently, and ink is already flowing. Definitely not a "nightmare", you must hate to clean lol.

I was wondering how long it takes to mix plastisol inks to achieve the "perfect" color. Also wondering how much of that carefully mixed ink gets tossed when a job is over. I am sure there is some significant wastage there, just not sure how much.

...I am about 100x more intimidated by screen printing than DTG.


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## ozstockman (Dec 23, 2010)

ghostofmedusa said:


> So, about 5 shirts per hour, at $14 profit per tee = $70 per hour x 5 hours = $350 a day profit!


I charge up to $250/hour for laser cutting. Actually there is even more for some products. I have a popular product that cost $70. I can cut out three of them in 30 minutes. That's about $420/hour 

Am I a millionaire? I'd wish I were  

Because I need to 
1)sand them(extra 15 minutes) 
2)read/answer emails(that can take a while)
3)pack(add another 30 minutes to pack three)
4)post(that's 20 minutes drive one way) 

And the most important I do not even sell one every day. However I usually cut three just to stock them and cut on production time.

Do you sell 5 t-shirts every hour?


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## Future17 (Nov 6, 2013)

please contact me

Sent from my ZTE N9120 using T-Shirt Forums


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## FlyingLion (Feb 27, 2013)

I've found the same thing. I think its all about body shape, as people are getting larger they prefer darker colours as they're more flattering. 

Personally I prefer white and try my best to persuade our dtg customers as they come in cheaper for them and are easier for us to produce and have a higher margin. 

In terms of retail if you look at some of the top brands; white t's are still very fashionable and moving a massive amount of units; these all seemer to come in a fitted style. See controversial Rihanna tshirt at Topshop and also brands such as Diesel and Blood Brother etc.

Sent from my GT-P5110 using T-Shirt Forums


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## NZACO (Jan 21, 2012)

I also prefer the lighter colored shirts and let the image make the difference.

But clients are the king and they normally want darker materials so we just have to pass on the higher costs to the client. 

Then the games start because they NEVER understand why printing on light and dark materials in not the same cost.


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## DTGPRINTERPARTS (Jul 13, 2012)

Can you Pm me where you got the head and can you post on the forums if the neo has an encoder wheel. Have you tried to clean the encoder strip?


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

ozstockman said:


> I charge up to $250/hour for laser cutting. Actually there is even more for some products. I have a popular product that cost $70. I can cut out three of them in 30 minutes. That's about $420/hour
> 
> Am I a millionaire? I'd wish I were
> 
> ...


Laser Cutting? I thought we were talking about printing $3 worth of Textile ink on $2.50 T-shirts.. Not sure how the two compare, but I wish I had your skill and knew your product


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## ozstockman (Dec 23, 2010)

ghostofmedusa said:


> Laser Cutting? I thought we were talking about printing $3 worth of Textile ink on $2.50 T-shirts.. Not sure how the two compare, but I wish I had your skill and knew your product


it was just an example similar to one t-shirt profit projection on whole day/month/year. I think we all know they are kind of not working in real life.


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## ghostofmedusa (Mar 12, 2013)

ozstockman said:


> it was just an example similar to one t-shirt profit projection on whole day/month/year. I think we all know they are kind of not working in real life.


 
Sorry, I didn't know what process you were speaking of.


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