# Has anybody used the Epson Artisan 1430 for Dye Sublimation?



## Hunkydorymofo

Hi, All
I am in the market for a new Dye Sublimation printer. I currently have a Ricoh SG3110DN and with Sublijet inks and Conde ICC profiles. The color profiles never come out right , Blacks don't come out black, pinks don't come out pink, or there's banding in my pictures. Yes, I have called technical svcs and they all tell me to do the same thing flush my printheads, and that gets expensive. So i've decided on getting a new printer and decided on the Epson Artisan 1430. I want to know have any of you used this printer firsthand for Dye Sublimation and what's the print quality like. Would this be better than the Ricoh SG3110DN I currently have or worse. Please give me your honest opinion on the Epson Artisan 1430 Printer.

Thank you
*
*


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## THECUTTERMAN

The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
John


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## jpkyle

The Epson 1430 is a much higher maintenance printer than the Ricoh 3110. I don't know that you will be completely satisfied with the switch. I would recommend trying the Sawgrass Powerdriver before purchasing a new system. It can be downloaded straight from their site.


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## DKgrafix

The only possible reason for a bad print if you use Conde ICC and Sawgrass inks with Ricoh is the bad printhead or a wrong setting while the ICC was installed.

I have the same set-up with Ricoh 7100.

Conde people did the set-up when I got the printer. Tried printing with it, some things were OK, but I could not get the good black print. Called the tech support, one check box was missed on initial set-up. They did it, no issues whatsoever after that.

If that is not the case, your printer was sitting for too long or you used expired ink.

if you are not printing a lot, you will not like the Epson. You'll have even more issues.

Good luck


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## MaxKhan

Hello Friends
I was also going through same thing and no one has any answer until i called Sawgrass to buy the ink. your regular ink sitting are different than sublimation settings. So here is the link just download the power driver which ever printer you have and it will solve the problems. Might be some people think what my ink has to do with drivers believe me or not this is the solution. NO ONE WILL SHARE THISall big companies want to make money. but after downloading this it will ask you if you want to print on Phone case, License Plate, or ETC. Just try it!!

Sawgrass Technologies - SubliJet PowerDrivers & MacProfiles


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## Doug78

I have the 1430 with cobra inks and I love it. It took some practice blanks to get some of my colors right, but now everything looks good. The only thing I'm having problems with now is gray's, they want to come out purple.

I have never used the Ricoh system so I can't say what the differences are but I do like the 1430 so far.


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## Anamootoo

Doug, My grays are coming out brown/tan. I hate not having a decent gray range. I don't regret going with the 1430, it hasn't caused me one second of trouble yet, but maybe I have reservations about continuing with Cobra... I've called twice and Richard has tried to be very helpful but he doesn't know what the issue is.


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## Doug78

I have the same problem with my Epson 7510 that I run cobra inks through. I've been lucky so far and can get a good gray if I print with grayscale, but that doesn't work if you have colors in the image too. 

Maybe it is the inks.


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## monogrammktplc

I have multiple 1430's and they all have cobra ink in them. They are workhorses and I would be lost without them!

The colors are great but it did take a little tweaking once I received my most recent ink refills. Check the bottles you have for a number (on the front label) and make sure your profiles have been updated. Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).

If that doesn't help send me a message and I will share the RGB codes that should work for greys.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums


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## MickeyT's

Ok, I'm going to jump on to this band wagon….

I'm using a 1430 with Cobra inks, and have been doing so for about 6 months. The profiles for Cobra inks have never really worked great for me, maybe that's because there's so many to choose from, I don't know. What I do know is anytime I use a gradient in my images for shadowing (usually black fading to gray) the grays are always coming out in shades of brown. I've been living with this in the past but now I have a customer who really wants the grays, not browns.

I've tried using other profiles with Cobra inks just to see if they would work and the only thing that comes close is an old Sawgrass profile I had from the past. The reds really pop and blacks looked black, but the gradients were still brown. 

I have a call in to Richard, but he is never good about calling back in emergency situations. So here I sit.

Thought I might check out this forum while I'm waiting to see if anyone has found the cure for the 'browns'.


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## Prescott Press

monogrammktplc said:


> Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).


My only comment is changing profiles because of changes in the ink from batch to batch is not the norm and in fact quite the opposite. One could not be in a true production environment and have this acceptable.


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## MickeyT's

Just got a return call from Richard. He said they have no format that will support gradients from Black to White or White to Black. He said he would have to 'look in to that problem'.
Humm…..now what?


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## Anamootoo

Mickey, What substrates are you using? I recently discovered that when pressing material I could reduce my press time and pressure and get there. It's not a good solution because all of my vivid colors need the full press time and pressure but maybe it'll help you with experimenting. On mugs nothing has worked. I have one "gray" that I have found... Pantone uncoated 423U RGB 144,148,150. It's still very warm for a gray but it still reads as gray with the rest of my palette. It was pressed using the poly cloth profile. 

I'm really busy right now adding new products but I'll be taking time to find decent grays to use in hte next few weeks. I'll add them here if I come up with any.


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## mgparrish

monogrammktplc said:


> I have multiple 1430's and they all have cobra ink in them. They are workhorses and I would be lost without them!
> 
> The colors are great but it did take a little tweaking once I received my most recent ink refills. Check the bottles you have for a number (on the front label) and make sure your profiles have been updated. Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).
> 
> If that doesn't help send me a message and I will share the RGB codes that should work for greys.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums


Cobra only updated when they changed ink type from a new vendor and new inks... not for batch issues. Those numbers you refer to are codes for the current inks source, not the batch!

There were also new profiles when Richard updated his equipment.

My inks are stable, no batch to batch issues, Cobra is not updating batch to batch, yes they have updated profiles but for other reasons.


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## mgparrish

Prescott Press said:


> My only comment is changing profiles because of changes in the ink from batch to batch is not the norm and in fact quite the opposite. One could not be in a true production environment and have this acceptable.


That is true but not the real issue. 

Folks are confusing old inks sourced from a different place and claiming there are "batch" numbers, there are no "batch" numbers. Cobra switched ink sources only. So of course profiles that worked for another ink composition won't work with a different composition.


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## mgparrish

RZ280 is the number for the new ink vendor, not the "batch". I have used both the old and new inks.


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## Anamootoo

mgparrish said:


> RZ280 is the number for the new ink vendor, not the "batch". I have used both the old and new inks.


I don't have that on mine, just the date it was filled: April 2014. I have the "new" ink and the "new" profiles.


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## mgparrish

Anamootoo said:


> I don't have that on mine, just the date it was filled: April 2014. I have the "new" ink and the "new" profiles.


The RZ number is in the profile "readme" file. Since he is switched over completely to the new inks he must have took off the vendor code off the bottles. 

_But there are no profiles for batch to batch issues.
_
Date codes are for knowing how fresh the inks are since aged inks are NG eventually. If you look at the profile pages most profiles were over a year ago. If he updated for "batch" issues his "readme" file would also have to have which dates are applicable for which profile.


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## mgparrish

Correction, the CP651 ink is what is in the readme file for the 1430, I'm using the WF1100. But looking at the other profile for the 1430 MAC (same inks as PC) the inks are RZ type. Just like all the other printers inks. Must be a typo in the readme. CP are the old inks.

CP inks are a unique ink
RZ inks are a unique ink.

Both require different profiles, these are not different "batches" from the same manufacturer, these are chemically unique and not from the same source.


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## Anamootoo

mgparrish said:


> The RZ number is in the profile "readme" file. Since he is switched over completely to the new inks he must have took off the vendor code off the bottles.
> 
> _But there are no profiles for batch to batch issues.
> _
> Date codes are for knowing how fresh the inks are since aged inks are NG eventually. If you look at the profile pages most profiles were over a year ago. If he updated for "batch" issues his "readme" file would also have to have which dates are applicable for which profile.


I have the CS inks and am using those profiles. I get that there are no "batches" but something is off. I'm not the only one with the problem. I've considered sinking the $500 into a program/digital eye to try to make my own profiles but Richard said they spent many thousands for their profiles. That coupled with less than stellar reviews and no feedback on how they work for sublimation, I'm hesitant. I really need gray. It completely sucks not having it. It'll be months before I run low on ink but I am thinking I may need to go with another supplier. 
I've read that there are places that will create a profile for you for a fee... Does anyone know anyone in the states that will do this for you? Something to try at least.


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## mgparrish

Anamootoo said:


> I have the CS inks and am using those profiles. I get that there are no "batches" but something is off. I'm not the only one with the problem. I've considered sinking the $500 into a program/digital eye to try to make my own profiles but Richard said they spent many thousands for their profiles. That coupled with less than stellar reviews and no feedback on how they work for sublimation, I'm hesitant. I really need gray. It completely sucks not having it. It'll be months before I run low on ink but I am thinking I may need to go with another supplier.
> I've read that there are places that will create a profile for you for a fee... Does anyone know anyone in the states that will do this for you? Something to try at least.


When did you buy your inks?

I think there is a typo in the 1430 PC profile readme. It is also possible that he mistakenly put in the profile in the zip file for the old CP inks as well.

Check with Richard and make sure you have the correct profile for the correct inks.

He may have posted up the old profile if you are using the profile dated 1/25/14. I know for sure as soon as the RZ inks profile came out he updated the 1430 profiles, so it makes no sense now to have the old inks up there when all the others (4 6 and 8 color) inks are the RZ type. Even the 1430 MAC profile states "RZ".

I have no issues with grayscales and helping others setup the 1430 looking at test files that were the grays are OK.

If you are using true grayscale (no colors other than black and percentages of black ... grays) in your source graphic, then you simply set the Epson driver to Print black only. This will force K black inks only to be used.

Otherwise grayscales are composite RGB and use the other inks to synthesize black.

Also, if you post your screen shots I can look at them.

Most users are happy with the product, _most that aren't I have been able to help them get setup properly eventually_. I will post pressed test files later. Suggest to try and determine if your profile and inks are matching, and that you have your setup correct first before going a custom profile route. Cobra does make custom profiles for _your_ printer BTW.


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## MickeyT's

I'm printing on Vapor t-shirts using GeoKnight K20S press. Also using Illustrator and MAC mountain lion.
I tried lower the times and reps but all that did was fade the other colors. I'm experimenting now printing RGB color charts using different profiles on poly material. Grays are just not cooperating. It must be coming from the profile, but haven't found one that works yet.
Thanks for your response. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've already lost the better part of two days working on this.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> I'm printing on Vapor t-shirts using GeoKnight K20S press. Also using Illustrator and MAC mountain lion.
> I tried lower the times and reps but all that did was fade the other colors. I'm experimenting now printing RGB color charts using different profiles on poly material. Grays are just not cooperating. It must be coming from the profile, but haven't found one that works yet.
> Thanks for your response. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've already lost the better part of two days working on this.


 If you have photoshop try that. Illustrator per Adobe and Epson is best used with Postscript printers or if you have RIP software.

I can never get AI to print colors correctly going to any non-postscript desktop printer. That is true even with pigment Epson OEM inks on a higher end large format printer without a RIP, desktop inkjet, or factory laser toners on my OKI. 

If your image is pure grayscale then set "black only" in the Epson driver.


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## MickeyT's

Hey Mike…
You have helped me already in the past getting Cobra set up on my system, and I'm not disappointed with the inks. So far they have worked very well, except for a few color matching issues. I already talked to Richard about the profiles, he said I am using the correct one. When I print the RGB color chart out the grays look like they have a shade of tan or brown to them and the blacks appear to have blue showing up. When I press these colors they really show more tans and blues that shades of gray.
I wasn't aware that Richard could do custom profiles, he didn't mention it. All he said was he would have to look in to creating blacks to whites. I can't wait that long. Most of my problems are coming from using gradients and blurs in Illustrator. The blacks just don't work.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> Hey Mike…
> You have helped me already in the past getting Cobra set up on my system, and I'm not disappointed with the inks. So far they have worked very well, except for a few color matching issues. I already talked to Richard about the profiles, he said I am using the correct one. When I print the RGB color chart out the grays look like they have a shade of tan or brown to them and the blacks appear to have blue showing up. When I press these colors they really show more tans and blues that shades of gray.
> I wasn't aware that Richard could do custom profiles, he didn't mention it. All he said was he would have to look in to creating blacks to whites. I can't wait that long. Most of my problems are coming from using gradients and blurs in Illustrator. The blacks just don't work.


 Yes, I think it is the other party with the profile issue being suspect as not being the right one. The MAC 1430 readme states RZ inks, but the PC file doesn't. 

I have had AI for a long time and never got color correct in it. I have Adobe CS and only use AI for file conversions and occasional output to commercial printers. It works great sending files out to commercial printers that have Postscript

I would love to not have to have Corel Draw but it will do color right on a non-Postscript printer.

It might be possible to do a grayscale only profile only based on a grayscale target, then you would still have to force black printing only through the driver. If Pisque is watching this thread perhaps he can comment on that possibility.

If you didn't have gradients and only solid fills then swatching would work, even in AI.

If you have both AI and Photoshop you could export out your AI files to .tif format then try printing from PS. I have had to do that a few times when I have AI files that won't import correctly into Corel.


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## Anamootoo

According to Richard they are the correct ones. I haven't called today but have been on the phone with him twice going from start to finish. I purchased in April 2014. I'll call tomorrow and ask about the CS/CP/RZ/NZ question. I had CS and NZ profiles in my download. I was told by Richard that CS is for me and not to use the NZ.

I also use photoshop.

I'll get some shots tomorrow after I get todays orders out so you can see what's happening. The black doesn't give me any trouble at all. 000000 is black every time, gray however is just not happening... not as a gradient and not as a unique rgb.


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## MickeyT's

I don't have a problem with black by itself, just when I use it in a gradient or a drop shadow. My black is very black. What keeps eating at me is the fact that I didn't have this problem using Sawgrass inks. The colors all came out perfect every time.


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## MickeyT's

Here are examples of the file before and after print.
Notice the Brown shading around the text and on the trailer instead of shades of gray. You can also see the shades of blue creeping through the black in other areas.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> Here are examples of the file before and after print.
> Notice the Brown shading around the text and on the trailer instead of shades of gray. You can also see the shades of blue creeping through the black in other areas.


Press and transfer this file ...

You will need a zip utility for OSX if the OS can't handle

http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.zip

or older MAC

http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.sit

Those gradients and grayscales are gory, shouldn't be that bad.

The PDI target file has full grayscales and then you can check linearization with the gradients in the file for all colors.

I think you need to get a demo 30 day trial copy of PS and try that after you export out to .tif also, Epson drivers suck with AI output. You need to rule out AI if you can.


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## Prescott Press

Mickey - I am speaking without experience on this but we have helped someone with some work that is a desktop user that strictly uses AI. What they do is save the AI file as a PDF and print the PDF. They have really good colors so it seems to work for them. They are using Sawgrass ink.


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## Anamootoo

MickeyT's said:


> I don't have a problem with black by itself, just when I use it in a gradient or a drop shadow. My black is very black. What keeps eating at me is the fact that I didn't have this problem using Sawgrass inks. The colors all came out perfect every time.


That's exactly what mine look like too, Mikey.


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## mgparrish

Prescott Press said:


> Mickey - I am speaking without experience on this but we have helped someone with some work that is a desktop user that strictly uses AI. What they do is save the AI file as a PDF and print the PDF. They have really good colors so it seems to work for them. They are using Sawgrass ink.


That's a good work around only if you have Sawgrass power driver as it will let you print from any application. The problem he has is that since he only has an icc and not power driver then he has no options other than use a graphics editor that let's you print through a profile. SG power driver will even let you print from MS word or acrobat or any program that has a printing function.


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## mgparrish

Power Driver appears as a printing device to your program just like a regular printer. It has the color management built it. Although it is not a RIP you print to it like you would a RIP. So it provides the color correction to the printer outside the program you are printing from.


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## MickeyT's

Sent the files to Richard at his request. He said he would talk to the ink manufacturer about the problem and get back to me.
Tried printing from .pdf and got the same results. Still working on your suggestions Mike.
Thanks for all the help everyone.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> Sent the files to Richard at his request. He said he would talk to the ink manufacturer about the problem and get back to me.
> Tried printing from .pdf and got the same results. Still working on your suggestions Mike.
> Thanks for all the help everyone.


OK, I have another possible workaround, but it requires you to understand why saving out your file in PDF from AI didn't work.

If you bring in any file into any graphic program it won't care what printer profile you had until you actually print ... the graphic data only "sees" the _printing_ profile upon being passed along to a printer device.

So you could put any ICC into the printer profile selection and would no effect on a file that you only created in AI or imported in. Once it's _saved_ out as a file in any format then it never has been color corrected thru the ICC _printing_ profile (sublimation or other ICC) and actually printed. In other words it never goes out that "door".

So merely exporting a pdf and printing in Adobe Reader the file never gets color corrected for sublimation, as it never passes thru the printing profile. 

In fact since you mention you are getting the same results I have to question your profile setup, it's as though the file never ever saw any color correction period since for sure merely exporting out of AI as a PDF file won't do the color correction for you. But even setting up the profile correctly in AI I have never had any desktop printer provide good results printing straight from AI.

The AI work around as described earlier will work with SG Power Driver because AI never prints the file, nor needs to color correct thru the _printer _profile because Power Driver is an actual printer driver and can do both color correction internally then pass the data to a printer.

Having said that, Adobe Acrobat can actually be printed to just like it is a printer, the output is a PDF file. So this means that AI should pass the data through the _printing_ profile and to the PDF "printer". The pdf file would have been color corrected through AI and no further outside color correction would be required.

Acrobat is often used to allow programs that can't create PDF's to see Acrobat as a printer device but instead of actually printing to paper you "print" to a PDF file.

Acrobat is about half the price of PS and there are also 3rd party Acrobat "clones" around much cheaper. All these have trial versions so you could test before you commit to buying. I'm not sure about the 3rd party Acrobat clones on MAC though.

This is theory but I can test since I have both AI and Acrobat/Distiller. I have sent pdf files out before to service bureaus before using their profile and "printing" from AI into a PDF file via Acrobat. This particular company preferred the files that way. This was a long time ago so I'm going off my old man memory anyway.

I'll also research some on this on the commercial printing forums.

I'll post back later tonight. If this works I'll document it so that it can help others.


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## Anamootoo

mgparrish said:


> OK, I have another possible workaround, but it requires you to understand why saving out your file in PDF from AI didn't work.
> 
> If you bring in any file into any graphic program it won't care what printer profile you had until you actually print ... the graphic data only "sees" the _printing_ profile upon being passed along to a printer device.
> 
> So you could put any ICC into the printer profile selection and would no effect on a file that you only created in AI or imported in. Once it's _saved_ out as a file in any format then it never has been color corrected thru the ICC _printing_ profile (sublimation or other ICC) and actually printed. In other words it never goes out that "door".
> 
> So merely exporting a pdf and printing in Adobe Reader the file never gets color corrected for sublimation, as it never passes thru the printing profile.
> 
> In fact since you mention you are getting the same results I have to question your profile setup, it's as though the file never ever saw any color correction period since for sure merely exporting out of AI as a PDF file won't do the color correction for you. But even setting up the profile correctly in AI I have never had any desktop printer provide good results printing straight from AI.
> 
> The AI work around as described earlier will work with SG Power Driver because AI never prints the file, nor needs to color correct thru the _printer _profile because Power Driver is an actual printer driver and can do both color correction internally then pass the data to a printer.
> 
> Having said that, Adobe Acrobat can actually be printed to just like it is a printer, the output is a PDF file. So this means that AI should pass the data through the _printing_ profile and to the PDF "printer". The pdf file would have been color corrected through AI and no further outside color correction would be required.
> 
> Acrobat is often used to allow programs that can't create PDF's to see Acrobat as a printer device but instead of actually printing to paper you "print" to a PDF file.
> 
> Acrobat is about half the price of PS and there are also 3rd party Acrobat "clones" around much cheaper. All these have trial versions so you could test before you commit to buying. I'm not sure about the 3rd party Acrobat clones on MAC though.
> 
> This is theory but I can test since I have both AI and Acrobat/Distiller. I have sent pdf files out before to service bureaus before using their profile and "printing" from AI into a PDF file via Acrobat. This particular company preferred the files that way. This was a long time ago so I'm going off my old man memory anyway.
> 
> I'll also research some on this on the commercial printing forums.
> 
> I'll post back later tonight. If this works I'll document it so that it can help others.


Would you need to try this if you are already using PS and getting the same results?


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## mgparrish

Anamootoo said:


> Would you need to try this if you are already using PS and getting the same results?


No. Photoshop is known to print well to RGB printers, AI is not designed for RGB printers. I can print great from PS.

I wouldn't necessarily assume you have the same problem either.

If you can print and press the PDI target file I posted earlier I can look at if your color management is screwed up or not.


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## mgparrish

Here is what I get printing 100% poly from PS using WF1100 and Cobra inks. 

There is some "snow" (white specs) in the scan, it's not actually on the poly.

Grayscales are not perfect but fairly good.


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## MickeyT's

The only PhotoShop I have is Elements. I tried to print from there earlier and if I remember right there was no change in the gradients. I've tried so many things lately I can't remember what results I got from any of them. I do know that every thing I've tried to this point has not worked. I don't remember what file type I printed out of PhotoShop, maybe that's where I went wrong.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> The only PhotoShop I have is Elements. I tried to print from there earlier and if I remember right there was no change in the gradients. I've tried so many things lately I can't remember what results I got from any of them. I do know that every thing I've tried to this point has not worked. I don't remember what file type I printed out of PhotoShop, maybe that's where I went wrong.


If you post your screen shots for you color management and for the Epson driver I can review. PS Elements works for sublimation.


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## MickeyT's

OK here are the settings I'm using…..


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> OK here are the settings I'm using…..


 Those are OK, now what is set in AI and in PS elements?


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## MickeyT's

need to go a further in detail Mike. What settings are you looking for in ai and ps?


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## MickeyT's

I'm assuming these are what you're wanting..


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> need to go a further in detail Mike. What settings are you looking for in ai and ps?


 I'm not where I can send you screens now so I grabbed some for reference.

But do not set to the settings in the attached screen shots.

I just need to know what yours are set to. I'll mark up your actual screen shots if needed.

In AI

*Document color management.*
Choose Edit > Color Settings.
See the first 3 pictures as attached

*Print color management*
Choose File>Print
See the last 2 images

Let me know your version of PS Elements.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> I'm assuming these are what you're wanting..


 OK we were posting at the same time. 

Your screens are OK for now. You need to understand "Assign/Preserve/Convert" document profiles but your settings are OK for now. I'll send you a in depth tutorial for that later.

I need your screens for the last 3 screens I posted.


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## MickeyT's

Color Mode is RGB, can' t do an actual 'screen print' on iMac that I know of. Can't capture that screen. The other 2 screens are attached.


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## MickeyT's

Mike, I sent the file to Richard yesterday at his request. He was able to print the image with pretty good
results and said he thought the problem was in the profile setup, but I'm using the profiles downloaded from his site. I only use the 1430_Poly_CS/6 profiles from his list.
Thought I better let you know about this.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> Mike, I sent the file to Richard yesterday at his request. He was able to print the image with pretty good
> results and said he thought the problem was in the profile setup, but I'm using the profiles downloaded from his site. I only use the 1430_Poly_CS/6 profiles from his list.
> Thought I better let you know about this.


Your print setting are OK

It looks like your image was actually printed without a profile effect period, or the profile you are using is FUBAR.

The compression is way too much, you are not printing linear at all.

Also, is he using AI on a MAC? I doubt it.


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## MickeyT's

One more thing,
When I go to Edit/Assign Profile, it is assigned to Adobe RGB 1998 and the colors are correct.
If I change the profile to Artisan 1430_poly_cloth…..CS/6, the gray colors turn brown instantly on my screen.


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## mgparrish

MickeyT's said:


> One more thing,
> When I go to Edit/Assign Profile, it is assigned to Adobe RGB 1998 and the colors are correct.
> If I change the profile to Artisan 1430_poly_cloth…..CS/6, the gray colors turn brown instantly on my screen.


You don't set a printer profile in the document profile area, only in the print setup area.

Keep the document Adobe RGB 1998 as the default document profile.

There are document profiles then there are printer profiles.


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## Anamootoo

Mickey, Just wondering if you ever figured out what was going on here or heard anything back from Richard? I'm gonna need new ink soon and have to decide whether to stay with Cobra or go somewhere else. Thanks, Renee


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## genesissat

Did anyone ever get this resolved? I've tried Installing Cobras Profiles Exactly as instructed from Richard at Cobra and color come out dull. I am about ready to dump Cobra Inks for good


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## lrgcustom2003

hey everyone.. i own a epson1430 artisan ..im currently doing screen printing now , we were doing research on dye sub today and i ran up on this thread, this is beautiful. so im taking notes on what you guys are writing so thank you for that. what im wanting is besides the printer what else would i need to get started im really interested in doing this can someone pm me and help i dont mean to hijack or anything i just want some info on this..this would really help me.. thanks in advanced 
Priscilla


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## THECUTTERMAN

Priscilla
I have been using the 1430 since they came out for dye sub they work well but it depends on the inks and paper I went through at least 6 different suppliers before I found good quality inks
Cheers John


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## lrgcustom2003

Can i pm John


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## aubsmith

I just started with this 1430 printer.. having some problems. So what Ink and Paper works well?


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## cocolove

Hi everyone.. I'm a new epson 1430 user of dye sublimation. I'm currently doing printing now and having issues with images printed. My prints are not printing like my designs and looks very faded. I'm using A4 3D film with vacuum press machine. The ink is OEM and was purchased from the manufacture of machine. I would appreciate some help this would really help me. Thanks in advanced


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## Sacman

Cocolove, 

You need to supply more information. Have you pressed a mug and it is faded or are you concerned about the image on the paper being faded? With sublimation inks, the image that prints on the paper is typically not as dark as you would expect to see. It will also color shift from what you see on your monitor. You can't make a judgement call until you actually press the mug. There is no way that I know of to tell if the colors are right until you press them. Be prepared to waste some paper, ink, and mugs while you figure it out.


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## holly100375

I also have the Epson 1430 and I have installed the ciss sublimation ink from inkxpro. How do i set up the colors in Corel? I am lost from the start lol please help they are coming out almost all gray and black im so discouraged


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## THECUTTERMAN

holly100375 said:


> I also have the Epson 1430 and I have installed the ciss sublimation ink from inkxpro. How do i set up the colors in Corel? I am lost from the start lol please help they are coming out almost all gray and black im so discouraged


Hi pm your email I will send you a pdf file showing settings I have used for around 5 years for the 1430 and T50 Epsons
Cheers John


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## holly100375

hi could i have the settings as well plz [email protected]


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## gnochi71

I prefer ricoh for sublimation printing. Normally very good reliability


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## BraaaaapGraphics

Ok im very much a newbie at this I am running an Epson 1430 with sublimation ink in a bulk ciss what do I need to do to set printer up to run subli ink I run corel if that makes a difference? anyhelp would be great!!


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## THECUTTERMAN

I use these settings 
1.Photo enhance
2.Epson matt paper
3.Best Photo
4.Turn Off High Speed
Again I went through at least 6 different paper brands and around 3 different ink suppliers before I found the ones I use now
Those settings should get you started I have never used a ICC profile just those settings
Cheers John


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## Steverc

THECUTTERMAN said:


> I use these settings
> 1.Photo enhance
> 2.Epson matt paper
> 3.Best Photo
> 4.Turn Off High Speed
> Again I went through at least 6 different paper brands and around 3 different ink suppliers before I found the ones I use now
> Those settings should get you started I have never used a ICC profile just those settings
> Cheers John


What Brand paper and ink do you use ?


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## THECUTTERMAN

I buy everything from this company in Jinan China
[email protected]

Very Reliable I have used them for around 5 years 

Cheers John


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## Madisonn005

I recently purchased the Artisan 1430 and I am having issues getting the color to come out darker. I noticed that I should download the Sawgrass Power Driver and hope that it will help. The colors are not exactly the correct color either, so I am assuming this will solve the problem as well. I am using TexPrint XPHR paper and lower cost ink. I didnt want to get the high dollar ink yet till I figured out the exact process knowing there will be some waste. I have the heat set to 374 and I am pressing for 60 seconds. Are there some settings that I could check to see if this could be an easy fix in my printer?

Thank you for any help!


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## mgparrish

Madisonn005 said:


> I recently purchased the Artisan 1430 and I am having issues getting the color to come out darker. *I noticed that I should download the Sawgrass Power Driver and hope that it will help. *The colors are not exactly the correct color either, so I am assuming this will solve the problem as well. I am using TexPrint XPHR paper and *lower cost ink*. I didnt want to get the high dollar ink yet till I figured out the exact process knowing there will be some waste. I have the heat set to 374 and I am pressing for 60 seconds. Are there some settings that I could check to see if this could be an easy fix in my printer?
> 
> Thank you for any help!


You are describing a mismatch between the ink supplier and the supplier of the color management (Powerdriver)

Power driver works with _specific_ printer models and _Sawgrass_ inks only.

A ICC for sublimation is _specific_ to a printer model and a _specific_ manufactures ink used with that specific model.

Until you understand this concept then you will not solve your color problems.


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## Madisonn005

mgparrish said:


> You are describing a mismatch between the ink supplier and the supplier of the color management (Powerdriver)
> 
> Power driver works with _specific_ printer models and _Sawgrass_ inks only.
> 
> A ICC for sublimation is _specific_ to a printer model and a _specific_ manufactures ink used with that specific model.
> 
> Until you understand this concept then you will not solve your color problems.


Thank you for the help. The images are coming out good, so I am going to pull the trigger and get the Sawgrass inks. Is there a different brand that you would recommend instead?


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## mgparrish

Madisonn005 said:


> Thank you for the help. The images are coming out good, so I am going to pull the trigger and get the Sawgrass inks. Is there a different brand that you would recommend instead?


I use Cobra.

They have ICC profiles for your printer. Inks much lower cost too.


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## WalkingZombie

mgparrish said:


> You are describing a mismatch between the ink supplier and the supplier of the color management (Powerdriver)
> 
> Power driver works with _specific_ printer models and _Sawgrass_ inks only.
> 
> A ICC for sublimation is _specific_ to a printer model and a _specific_ manufactures ink used with that specific model.
> 
> Until you understand this concept then you will not solve your color problems.


I use Cobra inks with the SawGrass 1430 Power Driver and they still come out great. No color change whatsoever. In my case, the ICC isn't specific to the ink MFG. Maybe I just got lucky.

I even use the SG 1400 Power Driver with Chinese inks and they come out looking great. No color differences between my 1400 (chinese inks) and 1430 (cobra inks) using the SG Power Drivers.


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## mgparrish

WalkingZombie said:


> I use Cobra inks with the SawGrass 1430 Power Driver and they still come out great. No color change whatsoever. In my case, the ICC isn't specific to the ink MFG. Maybe I just got lucky.
> 
> I even use the SG 1400 Power Driver with Chinese inks and they come out looking great. No color differences between my 1400 (chinese inks) and 1430 (cobra inks) using the SG Power Drivers.


You got lucky ....


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## ANTECH 68

Hi, The 1430 is a great printer, we set up a CIS on ours and we use Chinese inks, Works great, we have done our own printed colour chart so we can match colours, we do about 5,000 prints a year through our machine , very cheap cost effective set up. Need to download ink pad reset chip though when needed.


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## Techamongous

How do you select Epson Matt paper? I dont have that in my list. Can you add paper types somehow?


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## mgparrish

Techamongous said:


> How do you select Epson Matt paper? I dont have that in my list. Can you add paper types somehow?


Assuming the 1430 ...

Epson Artisan 1430 Inkjet Printer - Product Information - Epson America, Inc.

Paper Types:

Plain paper
EPSON® Bright White Paper
Photo Paper Glossy
Premium Photo Paper Glossy
Ultra Premium Photo Paper Glossy
Premium Photo Paper Semi-gloss
Ultra Premium Photo Paper Luster
Presentation Paper Matte
Premium Presentation Paper Matte
Ultra Premium Presentation Paper Matte
Ultra Premium Presentation Paper Matte Double-sided

The screen shot is from my WF7110, the 1430 will have a similar paper selection.


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## circle10

I have a question I purchased the Epson 1430 for sublimation I got a packaged deal from amazon with xpro III INK CISS system. where can I get the correct color profile. I downloaded some but the colors just don't come out the way its suppose. I'm using textprint xphr paper an coral draw x3


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## mgparrish

circle10 said:


> I have a question I purchased the Epson 1430 for sublimation I got a packaged deal from amazon with xpro III INK CISS system. where can I get the correct color profile. I downloaded some but the colors just don't come out the way its suppose. I'm using textprint xphr paper an coral draw x3


If the vendor doesn't offer a ICC profile then you have to get one made.

Else forget about doing any photographic type work and resort to "swatching" for vector designs.

http://www.multirip.com/colormanagement.html


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## circle10

mgparrish said:


> circle10 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question I purchased the Epson 1430 for sublimation I got a packaged deal from amazon with xpro III INK CISS system. where can I get the correct color profile. I downloaded some but the colors just don't come out the way its suppose. I'm using textprint xphr paper an coral draw x3
> 
> 
> 
> If the vendor doesn't offer a ICC profile then you have to get one made.
> 
> Else forget about doing any photographic type work and resort to "swatching" for vector designs.
> 
> http://www.multirip.com/colormanagement.html
Click to expand...

Ok thank you I'll try that


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## Sacman

Also the print will look nothing like the final press. In other words, don't judge the results just based on what you are seeing on paper. You have to transfer onto something to get a real feel for what the colors are. I would suggest buying a yard or so of a cheap fabric like costume satin or peachskin that is 100% poly and press to that to test with to at least get you close. It is a lot cheaper than trying to use purchased blanks to test with as you are starting out.


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## TheMerchanator

Hey Guys I was wondering if anyone has had problems with The Artisan 1430 Printing Lines in the middle of the artwork. I'm assuming it might be something with the print heads, I have cleaned them but still having problems. I can't seem to get the settings right and I'm not sure if that could be the issue as well. This is not my first time printing, I used the printer about a month and a half ago and everything was fine. I was hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Please advise


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## sindhu g n

hi.
Epson Artisan 1430 is good for Dye Sublimation.Epson Artisan 1430 is a mid range printer from Epson.it has some impressive performance points, print speed is one of the issue .


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## WalkingZombie

TheMerchanator said:


> Hey Guys I was wondering if anyone has had problems with The Artisan 1430 Printing Lines in the middle of the artwork. I'm assuming it might be something with the print heads, I have cleaned them but still having problems. I can't seem to get the settings right and I'm not sure if that could be the issue as well. This is not my first time printing, I used the printer about a month and a half ago and everything was fine. I was hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Please advise


Are you using CISS or cartridges?

If the last time you used it was a month and a half ago, then you most likely have clogged heads. With DyeSub inks, you have to print once or twice a week, at the very least. Print out a Nozzle Check and see how bad the output is. If any of the little lines are missing, you will have to do Head Cleanings until the Nozzle Check comes out perfect (no little lines missing).

Do a maximum of 3 to 4 Head Cleanings back to back, then do a Nozzle Check. If the Nozzle Check still has missing little lines, wait about 15min and do another Head Cleaning, then check the Nozzle Check output. Keep doing one and one (head clean and nozzle check) until you get a clean Nozzle Check output.

Don't do 10 Head Cleanings in a row or you can possibly overfill the little reservoir pads that hold the left over ink and can get a little messy. Give it some time to dry or soak up between multiple Head Cleanings.

If Head Cleanings don't work after 6-8 Head Cleanings (remember to give breaks in between) then you most likely will need to purge the print head with cleaning solution or soak the print head. Or wait until the next day and try again. Refrain from doing 10, 15, 20 Head Cleanings! You will fill up your internal waste pad! If it doesn't clear out with 5-6 Head Cleanings, then it most likely will not clear out. If you do see improvement though with each Head Cleaning, then try a couple more times.

Unless someone else knows what can be wrong...


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## TheMerchanator

WalkingZombie said:


> Are you using CISS or cartridges?
> 
> If the last time you used it was a month and a half ago, then you most likely have clogged heads. With DyeSub inks, you have to print once or twice a week, at the very least. Print out a Nozzle Check and see how bad the output is. If any of the little lines are missing, you will have to do Head Cleanings until the Nozzle Check comes out perfect (no little lines missing).
> 
> Do a maximum of 3 to 4 Head Cleanings back to back, then do a Nozzle Check. If the Nozzle Check still has missing little lines, wait about 15min and do another Head Cleaning, then check the Nozzle Check output. Keep doing one and one (head clean and nozzle check) until you get a clean Nozzle Check output.
> 
> Don't do 10 Head Cleanings in a row or you can possibly overfill the little reservoir pads that hold the left over ink and can get a little messy. Give it some time to dry or soak up between multiple Head Cleanings.
> 
> If Head Cleanings don't work after 10-15 Head Cleanings (remember to give breaks in between) then you most likely will need to purge the print head with cleaning solution.
> 
> Unless someone else knows what can be wrong...


Walking Zombie,
Thank you for responding! I appreciate it. 
Yes I am Using CISS, I was unaware of how often i needed to print with this printer. Thaat is some very useful information. I Tried doing what you suggested and I think the heads are clogged Ive attached the results of the last print test. Will I need special solution to purge the heads manually?


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## mgparrish

WalkingZombie said:


> Are you using CISS or cartridges?
> 
> If the last time you used it was a month and a half ago, then you most likely have clogged heads. With DyeSub inks, you have to print once or twice a week, at the very least. Print out a Nozzle Check and see how bad the output is. If any of the little lines are missing, you will have to do Head Cleanings until the Nozzle Check comes out perfect (no little lines missing).
> 
> Do a maximum of 3 to 4 Head Cleanings back to back, then do a Nozzle Check. If the Nozzle Check still has missing little lines, wait about 15min and do another Head Cleaning, then check the Nozzle Check output. Keep doing one and one (head clean and nozzle check) until you get a clean Nozzle Check output.
> 
> Don't do 10 Head Cleanings in a row or you can possibly overfill the little reservoir pads that hold the left over ink and can get a little messy. Give it some time to dry or soak up between multiple Head Cleanings.
> 
> If Head Cleanings don't work after 6-8 Head Cleanings (remember to give breaks in between) then you most likely will need to purge the print head with cleaning solution or soak the print head. Or wait until the next day and try again. Refrain from doing 10, 15, 20 Head Cleanings! You will fill up your internal waste pad! If it doesn't clear out with 5-6 Head Cleanings, then it most likely will not clear out. If you do see improvement though with each Head Cleaning, then try a couple more times.
> 
> Unless someone else knows what can be wrong...


You covered most everything except I would add that poor vacuum (aka "prime") can cause the same symptoms and sometimes is confused for clogging. 

Carts or CIS need to be "primed" per the suppliers recommendation.


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## WalkingZombie

Yea, I was gonna mention that after my question about whether it was CISS or cartridges but then I saw that he hadn't used it in over one and a half months and that it was working good before that, unless the initial setup wasn't primed correctly.

But yes, priming may be an issue as well. Even sitting for a month and a half, a CISS may need to be primed again. I doubt running solely cartridges need to be primed if sitting for over a month?

Still not sure if they are using CISS or cartridges.


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## mgparrish

WalkingZombie said:


> Yea, I was gonna mention that after my question about whether it was CISS or cartridges but then I saw that he hadn't used it in over one and a half months and that it was working good before that, unless the initial setup wasn't primed correctly.
> 
> But yes, priming may be an issue as well. Even sitting for a month and a half, a CISS may need to be primed again. I doubt running solely cartridges need to be primed if sitting for over a month?
> 
> Still not sure if they are using CISS or cartridges.


Using carts myself I have had to re-prime before just sitting a few days. Just depends where the air bubble is ...


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## blastedrat

Wondering if someone here can help me out getting started. I recently purchased the Epson Artisan 1430 to use fore dye sub printing. I installed the CIS myself and filled it with Cobra inks. The test print is working, it is connected to the network but I can NOT get it to print anything else. Every time I try it gives me this error: 1 Cancel all print jobs. 2. Open printer cover and remove any jammed paper. 3. Close the cover turn off power and try again. I have tried dozens of times using 2 different computers. There is absolutely no paper jam as it is brand new and had only printed the test pages which came out fine, also the nozzle check prints are working and coming out fine. Tried using windows and ai to print with no luck. Has anyone else had this problem or know what I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance for any help!


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## carol1980

aucutters said:


> The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
> and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
> John


Hello what paper do you use for sublimation on Epson artisan 1430?
I have Inkxpro Sublimation Inks and also i live in a very humid place, almost 85% of humidity and very hot.
So my prints and the paper wont came out fine, and i trying to figure it out how to solve the issue. (The wheel stars marks all the paper even if i clean it before and after 1 print)


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## Viper Graphics

carol1980 said:


> Hello what paper do you use for sublimation on Epson artisan 1430?
> I have Inkxpro Sublimation Inks and also i live in a very humid place, almost 85% of humidity and very hot.
> So my prints and the paper wont came out fine, and i trying to figure it out how to solve the issue. (The wheel stars marks all the paper even if i clean it before and after 1 print)


Carol1980, this thread is over a year old,  you may have better luck starting a new thread with your problem.

Larry


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## BJSPUTER

THECUTTERMAN said:


> The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
> and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
> John


 Can you send me the settings, just bout the 1430 with cobra ink.


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## lmdouglas

BJSPUTER said:


> Can you send me the settings, just bout the 1430 with cobra ink.


could you please send me the settings also!!


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## bandit34

THECUTTERMAN said:


> The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
> and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
> John


could you please let me know the setting you used as well? thanks


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## NeideShirts

Can you please send the setting to me as well. I will start using my Epson 1430 for sublimations. And I am kind of lost. Thank You!!


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## socceronly

For anyone coming across this thread and considering this printer....

I have killed a few 1430's with sub ink. 

Today I would suggest people buy a Workforce printer instead. 4 colors is enough, and it has an extra large black (if you are using carts).

Cobra also has inks for it that do not require a profile anymore.

Just my 2c from using both printers.


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## NeideShirts

socceronly said:


> For anyone coming across this thread and considering this printer....
> 
> I have killed a few 1430's with sub ink.
> 
> Today I would suggest people buy a Workforce printer instead. 4 colors is enough, and it has an extra large black (if you are using carts).
> 
> Cobra also has inks for it that do not require a profile anymore.
> 
> Just my 2c from using both printers.


Which workforce do you recommend to buy?? Thanks


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## splathead

NeideShirts said:


> Which workforce do you recommend to buy?? Thanks



They are so cheap, go with the large format paper ones, even if you THINK you will never use them. You will.


7110, 7210, 7610, 7620, 7710, 7720. The models with a 2 in it means 2 trays.


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## socceronly

NeideShirts said:


> Which workforce do you recommend to buy?? Thanks


Oops sorry. Just like Splat says. 

The large format ones.

If you have a Cameo, get the printer with the scanner. 

You can use the scanner and Pixscan mat to cut out your designs. The printer scans up to 11x17, which is hard to find in a scanner without paying stupid money. It will scan the whole mat and you can easily cut stuff out. Not the fastest, but the cost to reward ratio can't be beat.


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## NeideShirts

Yes I do have a Cameo 3. I will look into that. But isn't the printer better off with a ecotank so I can use the sublimation inks, Because of the waste system that already comes with those printers. Do you guys know any A3 Workforce printer with a ecotank? Also Thank You guys for all the help!!


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## socceronly

NeideShirts said:


> Yes I do have a Cameo 3. I will look into that. But isn't the printer better off with a ecotank so I can use the sublimation inks, Because of the waste system that already comes with those printers. Do you guys know any A3 Workforce printer with a ecotank? Also Thank You guys for all the help!!


Not sure about the ecotanks. Don't know if there is wide success with those yet. 

If they worked well, I think Cobra and others would be selling them.

If you have a Cameo, then for sure get the scanner and a Pixscan mat. 

The added bonus is that the Cobra ink, if you use them, does not require a profile (4.3 ink I think, make sure you get the right kind)


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## splathead

NeideShirts said:


> Yes I do have a Cameo 3. I will look into that. But isn't the printer better off with a ecotank so I can use the sublimation inks, Because of the waste system that already comes with those printers. Do you guys know any A3 Workforce printer with a ecotank? Also Thank You guys for all the help!!


You pay stupid money for the larger format ecotanks. Close to $1,000 and then you are dealing with ink bags which may or may not be available as refillables. 

If you want to limit yourself to 8.5 X 14 inch tansfers the smaller more affordable ecotanks are an option. 

You'll end up paying twice the cost of the Epson WF7XXX series and you'll end up with 2 years of ink you won't use. Those printers are front loaded in cost to cover Epson's lost revenue in selling you ink cartridge refills.


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## splathead

socceronly said:


> If they worked well, I think Cobra and others would be selling them.



Cobra supports them. They had some for sale not too long ago.

I emailed them last week asking if their pigment ink worked in them and they said sure. Just as their dye and sublimation inks do.

Don't know for sure but my guess is Cobra does not sell them anymore because of the hugh markup Epson has for the included ink.


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## mgparrish

splathead said:


> Cobra supports them. They had some for sale not too long ago.
> 
> I emailed them last week asking if their pigment ink worked in them and they said sure. Just as their dye and sublimation inks do.
> 
> Don't know for sure but my guess is Cobra does not sell them anymore because of the hugh markup Epson has for the included ink.


I would also think that the tank printers might "cannibalize" some of Cobra's existing CISS sales. A regular printer with CISS added is still way cheaper than a tank printer.


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## splathead

mgparrish said:


> I would also think that the tank printers might "cannibalize" some of Cobra's existing CISS sales. A regular printer with CISS added is still way cheaper than a tank printer.



Good point. Their ink sales would still continue unabated and I bet that's where the real money is.


I stayed away from CISS based on your original recommendation. Glad I did tho I hate having to refill cartridges at the MOST inconvenient times. They may be happy if they didn't have to sell anymore-they must get a ton of support calls.


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## socceronly

Maybe they work better now. I seem to recall being quite excited about them only to find out there were problems. That was some time ago though.


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## NeideShirts

Thank you everyone for all the help!! I will look into the 71** s and just get me a CISS system for it. Because I will buy those to do Sublimation only.


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## rctshirt

THECUTTERMAN said:


> The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
> and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
> John


Hi John:

Would you be able to share your specs with me as well? I have a 1430 and would also like to use it for sublimation.

Thank you!


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## [email protected]

The 1430 works fine. I have a CISS for the ink. You should print something every day. Dye Sub ink blocks the print heads if left to dry out.


----------

