# Embroidery fail. Please help!



## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

Hi all,

I made a bit of a mistake. I've just had 50 hoodies embroidered, however I've never had embroidery done before, and the people doing it didn't think, or tell me that the finished product would end up with a massive white non-tearable backing on it.

I guess this wouldn't really matter if it were deep inside the garment, however it is on the hood, which means if the person is wearing it with the hood down, it's clearly visible (extra so because the hoodies are black).

I'm obviously pissed at my making the mistake and not requesting tearaway backing, but I'm also annoyed the embroiderer didn't even mention, or think to mention it - I figured it would be the obvious way to do it - I mean, they wouldn't embroider a towel and leave a giant white backing piece on that...

So anyway, annoyance aside, any tips? I've bought a picking needle, and can remove most of the backing material so it looks ok, but it's certainly not what I'd envisioned. I'm also scared of nicking the embroidery, because then it will be destroyed.

Any ideas?


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## vlcnmstr (Jan 5, 2007)

1. if they didn't trim them close to the work then their job isn't finished.

2. they could have used a backing in black (they ARE available, but might have cost a bit more)

3. sometimes this is how we all learn.

4. Ask them why they didn't trim the backing and if you get a discount for doing that work yourself. (might be more hindsight if you've finished paying them on this job.)


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## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

vlcnmstr said:


> 1. if they didn't trim them close to the work then their job isn't finished.
> 
> 2. they could have used a backing in black (they ARE available, but might have cost a bit more)
> 
> ...


Hey - Thanks for the reply.

I've attached a grainy image. One is the backing from the shop, and the other is my hand-picked version which took probably half an hour to complete. I don't know if the hand-picked version is satisfactory, and whether I can really sell it like that. I'm trying to think of what else to do...


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## bungy (Aug 24, 2006)

I don't think asking for tearaway would have made much difference.
For me, backing choice is determined by the fabric being stitched - not a customer request.

If you use tearaway on a fabric that requires cutaway then you will be even more pissed when the result is not acceptable.

I am suprised that the embroiderer has used white backing on a dark garment.
Black backing does not cost more, so that should not have been an issue.
Only thing I can think of is they didn't have any black backing.

If they had of used black instead of white it would have been less obvious and probably acceptable.

The location for the embroidery is interesting as well.
Just curious, why choose that location - customer request?


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## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

bungy said:


> I don't think asking for tearaway would have made much difference.
> For me, backing choice is determined by the fabric being stitched - not a customer request.
> 
> If you use tearaway on a fabric that requires cutaway then you will be even more pissed when the result is not acceptable.
> ...


Hi Bungy,

Yes, it's disappointing regarding the colour of the backing. 50% of the garments are red too. So, everything is mismatched.

The location of the embroidery was my choice - It's a unique place to put it, and looks amazing on the outside, but, the problem is the hood is often worn down, which means the backing is very obvious.

I don't think my attempts at cutting it away are very good. I've been priding myself on impeccable finish... High quality die cut hangtags, completely relabeled, neck printed, high quality back screenprinting, the works... This embroidery was the 'final touch', which in the end has destroyed the entire project.

I've been considering ways to cover it, but nothing I can think of would result in something that doesn't look like I'm covering something up!


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

For the black garments, you could try this... It might have been less obvious if you had requested they use black bobbins as well.

Embroidery Stitch Covering - Soft Fusible to Protect Skin From Embroidery Stitches - AllStitch Embroidery Supplies

For the red ones, you are SOL. The only way to make it less visible would have been to use a tearaway backing (on fleece, not sure that's a great idea...) and use red bobbins which would have to be custom wound.


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## American logoZ (Sep 16, 2009)

I think the covering listed above is your best bet. There is another thread on here that talks about it, and it lists what it is used for in regular sewing so you can find it at your local fabric shop. I've never tried it, but I wonder if the white stitch covering could be dyed red prior to pressing it over the stitches? 

Another option might be to find a decorative covering, patch, fabric/flannel or something that you could live with to cover the back and stitch or heat press it into place. Twill USA sells a product that you press to the back of any fabric which allows you to heat set the fabric in place (think of applique).


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## scarface1899 (Aug 7, 2008)

Looked at the embroidery and tear a way is not an option because of the stitches in de step satin part. 

Cover up is your best way to go.

I would bring the hoods back and let them solve the problem. They know that they should have used black cutaway.

As long as you keep talking with the embroiderer I don't think they would make a big problem about solving it.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

American logoZ said:


> Twill USA sells a product that you press to the back of any fabric which allows you to heat set the fabric in place (think of applique).


The only thing I see on twillusa.com is their PSA permanent twill or diamond twill heat seal. My understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong, is that unless you cut it with a laser, you need to sew the edges or they will fray when you wash the garment. Is there something else they sell that I don't see on their website?

Another option might be to apply a piece of heat press vinyl or flock over the back if you can find something that's close to the color of the hoodie. That should hold up fairly well I would think...


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## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

Thanks everyone - The cover a stitch stuff looks good, but as already mentioned doesn't solve the red hood issue... I might order some and give it a try though.

Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between what's been done embroidery wise to my hoods, and say for example, towel embroidery? Because when I was in the shop, I specifically picked up a towel sample and said 'I want it like this' ... There are no tearaway issues on towel monogramming - Why could they not have done whatever method they use on towels for my hoods?


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## bungy (Aug 24, 2006)

nickrj said:


> Thanks everyone - The cover a stitch stuff looks good, but as already mentioned doesn't solve the red hood issue... I might order some and give it a try though.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between what's been done embroidery wise to my hoods, and say for example, towel embroidery? Because when I was in the shop, I specifically picked up a towel sample and said 'I want it like this' ... There are no tearaway issues on towel monogramming - Why could they not have done whatever method they use on towels for my hoods?


For towels, I generally use "solvy" top and bottom.
This is a water soluble product.
So after the first wash, all you are left with is threads and garment.

What solvy does is, help stop the "pile" pushing through the threads during the stitching process.

I sometimes use solvy on top and tearaway underneath - it all depends on towel quality and whether it is terry towelling or a velour style.

Depending on the material the hoodie was made from will determine how the end result will look.

The solutions offered in the other posts all have merit, but will add cost to the project if you decide to go this way again. Custom bobbins, fusible backings over embroidery etc etc.


While the location is unique and I applaud your willingness to explore this, there are usually good reasons for some locations not to be used, as you have found out.
In future ask yourself, why has no-one done this before it is so obvious, then step back and take a closer look - when the "aahhaa" moment comes, look for another spot - if on the other hand you can see no good reason not to proceed then go for it.

As I typed this, a thought came to me....  yes it does happen occassionally.
Why not get some material and sew in a piece to cover the inside of the hood, and line the hood section in the same color as the hoodie.
Line the whole hood, not just cover the embroidery.
Sew it along the seams already there.
If you use a lighter material it might not be too heavy, same principle as having a jacket made and the embroidery is done on the shell before the lining is attached. Cost may be a factor.

Just need a seamstress. A good one could sew in the lining on 50 hoodies in a day or two, that would include cutting the inserts.

The above is only a last resort I suppose, if the embroiderer decides not to help you find a solution.


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## JAF (Oct 12, 2008)

We've sew team numbers on hoods for years, never had a problem. We use 2 or 3 layers of tear away, placed in opposite directions. If the stitching is black we would use a black bobbin and black tear away.
I don't think that iron on cover stitch is the answer because it will look like a patch job. I love the idea of lining the hood. Doesn't Boxercraft do custom hoodies like that?

Of you line the hood you won't have to pick at the backing. Although, you did a great job on getting rid of the backing. Be careful not to break any stitching.


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## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

JAF said:


> We've sew team numbers on hoods for years, never had a problem. We use 2 or 3 layers of tear away, placed in opposite directions. If the stitching is black we would use a black bobbin and black tear away.
> I don't think that iron on cover stitch is the answer because it will look like a patch job. I love the idea of lining the hood. Doesn't Boxercraft do custom hoodies like that?
> 
> Of you line the hood you won't have to pick at the backing. Although, you did a great job on getting rid of the backing. Be careful not to break any stitching.


I like the lined idea too, however, unfortunately these hoods are already lined! I think an iron cover stitch is going to look patched too... This situation is killing me.


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## JAF (Oct 12, 2008)

That changes things. I didn't realize they were already lined. What I would have done is open up the seam, if the customer wanted to pay for the extra service and sewn between the layers, so the stitching wouldn't show.
Is it possible to replace the lining? Cut out the old, cut around the embroidery and replace the lining. If you are dealing with a top quality image it might be worth it.


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## nickrj (Nov 21, 2009)

JAF said:


> That changes things. I didn't realize they were already lined. What I would have done is open up the seam, if the customer wanted to pay for the extra service and sewn between the layers, so the stitching wouldn't show.
> Is it possible to replace the lining? Cut out the old, cut around the embroidery and replace the lining. If you are dealing with a top quality image it might be worth it.


Ha! I was writing a reply to the thread, and while I was doing it you replied with this - That's exactly what I'm going to do. And as I inspected it more, I realised in future picking out the lining, embroidering, and then re-sewing is the trick. This was the reply I was writing:

Ok, having thought about this considerably, there are no ways to remedy it quickly, and or cheaply. I could put fusing over it and patch, among other things, but all of those I think will actually decrease their value.

So, upon further inspection, I think I'll pick out the existing lining, and cut & sew a flannel liner in. While painstakingly slow and difficult, the end result will actually look exceptional, and the hoodies will have added value.

I've wanted to have custom lining for a long time, but the numbers to have them made are too big for me - So, I guess I've cornered myself into finally getting them! 

I'll post some pics next week when I've finished it all.


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## American logoZ (Sep 16, 2009)

tfalk said:


> The only thing I see on twillusa.com is their PSA permanent twill or diamond twill heat seal. My understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong, is that unless you cut it with a laser, you need to sew the edges or they will fray when you wash the garment. Is there something else they sell that I don't see on their website?


PS965. Sorry - I don't know what it's called. I picked some up at a trade show and that is the number inside the tube. You will have to deal with the fabric's edges depending on the type of fabric chosen. Check out non-fray products at your local sewing or craft store or hem the edges if necessary. Customizing both the inside and outside of the hood will add cost, but if done well it will also add value.


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