# Cutting other (thicker) materials?



## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

Hello, 

I am have been looking to get some vinyl cut logos for my business and got some quote ranging from 300-500 for a small batch! I'm now looking at just getting a vinyl cutter to make my own along with a few other things if possible.

Now I realize that this is T-shirt site, but I've been finding lots of good info on this site about the cutters so I figured I would ask here.

I am hoping to cut more than vinyl stickers. I saw an add for a Cricut Expression machine that was cutting thicker cardstock like chipboard and posterboard. But the Circuit Expression didn't allow me to hook it up to a computer.

I've been looking at something like the Roland GX-24 but I can't find any info about cutting thicker materials. I'm hoping to cut .5mm printed cardstock, or maybe even die cut business cards.

I'm also hoping to maybe use the cutter to make some prototype packaging boxes if possbile but I just can't find info on cutting thicker materials.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm looking to do some one-off cuts and prototypes so going out to get some die cuts isn't really an option.

Are there blades options on some of these cutters that would let me cut though thicker materials?

Thanks


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## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

One thing I noticed is that there are examples of the Graphtec Craft Robo Pro cutting out thicker card stock to make packaging materials.

According to their demos the machine can though like FedEX shipping envelopes which are .5 to 1mm thick.

I know that they sell a separate deep cut blade, and I'm wondering if the Roland GX-24 can due the same things of if the Craft Robo Pro is more capable.

Thanks


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

I believe a gx-24 can cut up to 3mm thick with a 60 degree blade. However the volume you cut will determine blade life. I don't think you want to even think about using a craft cutter for doing a production job...you're more likely to pull out your hair and kill the machine.


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## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking to cut low quantity (100 or less). 

If it can really actually cut up to 3mm, then I'm set with the GX-24. I just havn't seen as much info on making product packaging with the GX-24, but I do have a few more concerns/questions.

Am I going to be damaging the machine by cutting thicker materials (besides the blades)?

Looks like the Graphtec machine can do Scoring, Preforating, and contour cutting. Does the GX-24 offer the same cutting features?

I see that the Graphtec brochure shows some additional blade options, what kind of blades can the GX-24 use, and will I need to switch blades to do the above cuts I mentioned or can the depth of the blade be computer controlled some how?


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

mooreaa said:


> Thanks for the reply. I'm looking to cut low quantity (100 or less).
> 
> If it can really actually cut up to 3mm, then I'm set with the GX-24. I just havn't seen as much info on making product packaging with the GX-24, but I do have a few more concerns/questions.
> 
> ...


The Graphtec and Roland machines are very similar in capabilities. I believe the Graphtec advertises and I know some on these forums have had some experience cutting larger stock requiring a greater downforce (the Graphtec does offer a greater downforce.) That being said, and having owned both, I prefer the Roland. Either will do your job...Roland has a little better optical eye system in IMHO. Both are quite rugged machines. Depth of blade is a manual adjustment, downforce is a computerized adjustment. Roland can do perforating and scoring, but Roland doesn't give you a lot of info on how to do it...I and others here can help you with that if it's a priority.

The local dealer who I purchased my original Graphtec from said that cutting thicker materials did not cause the machine to be over-stressed. I think he said that a little while before we had to replace two motors. I don't care what you buy, none of these vinyl cutters is built to cut very heavy materials day-in-and-day out without stressing the motors. We managed to kill motors cutting sandblast mask...granted it was a lot of sandblast mask over a period of time, but they can only do so much. The sharper the blade the less strain on the motor. The deeper the cut, the more torque on the motor and gearing. But if you're cutting 100, you'll be fine, just go slow. Nothing like driving a deeply embedded blade through thick material at high speed.


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## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

Appreciate the info. I finally placed my order for the GX-24 today and will be looking forward to working with it. I am sure that I will have questions on doing different types of cuts.

I did purchase any accessories yet because I was hoping to get some advise on what I'll need.

I'm guessing I'm going to want to get some 45 and 60 degree blades to cut thicker materials. Maybe some sort of Carrier Sheet to place some of my materials on. Is there anything else that I need to be looking at getting?

Thanks!


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

I think that the summa cutter is the most recommened with the sandblast stencils cutters guys.


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

Couple thoughts...if you're going to be cutting anything much more than 1mm get some 60 degree blades. My preference is for CleanCut blades. You can get them from a number of places and I'd shop for cost. They just seem to last longer than the Roland blades. For basic vinyl 45 degrees are fine and the Roland blades seem to last reasonably long in that geometry. For a carrier I've used a number things from left over heat transfer vinyl carrier left over from doing a transfer to the thicker carrier sheets used for the hobby cricut machine that you can buy cheaply at Walmart. You can get them in sizes from 8x10 up to 18 by 24 I believe. The one I've used is 12 x 12 and works for about 90 percent of my needs. Get a good light. God knows nothing helps weeding better than good lighting...other than maybe young eyes. In my case lighting was my only option. Another thing I use is a magnifying headset...makes my life easier and my eyes less blurry after a day of weeding. Weeders...comfortable ones. That's a personal preference. I've used dental picks for years...got a Stahls easy weeder recently and it's a whole lot easier on my hands, though I do like the variety of angles available with dental picks. Did I mention lighting...worth mentioning over and over again. It's your best friend. Blade exposure is a key issue...become very familiar with how much blade you have extended beyond the holder. I learned that lesson the hard way...don't compensate for downforce with additional extension. Too much extension will affect weeding your materials. It's almost too hard to not have enough, but using a magnifying device of some sort...or someone with great eyes, aim for 1/2 to 1 thickness of a credit card. Not more. Closer to 1/2 the better. Far better to adjust downforce than extend your blade too far. When using really thick materials you may need more blade exposure, but unless you're doing something like really heavy cardstock you'll be surprised how thick of a material the thickness of a credit card covers. I'm sure I'm forgetting more and you'll learn more through your own practice. Oh yeah, did I mention lighting?


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

ino said:


> I think that the summa cutter is the most recommened with the sandblast stencils cutters guys.


Yes, you're right on about that...unfortunately I had a Graphtec in house and had to make due. I looked at one of them a few years ago and the model recommended for production sandblast cutting was a bit pricey. But I have read in a number of places it is the brand of choice for sandlbast mask.


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

Apart from good lighting I'm sure a watchmakers eye lens could also be useful for the small weeding lines.


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## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

On my original topic of thicker materials, can you do multiple passes to cut harder materials? Like plastic sheets maybe 1.5-2.5mm in thickness?

The sheets are designed to be cut with a scoring knife and snapped or cut over and over with an x-acto. Would going over the cut in .5mm (or less) increments make this kind of a cut possible? Or is this going to over-stress the motors?

Thanks


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

mooreaa said:


> On my original topic of thicker materials, can you do multiple passes to cut harder materials? Like plastic sheets maybe 1.5-2.5mm in thickness?
> 
> The sheets are designed to be cut with a scoring knife and snapped or cut over and over with an x-acto. Would going over the cut in .5mm (or less) increments make this kind of a cut possible? Or is this going to over-stress the motors?
> 
> Thanks


I can't answer that. You can make multiple passes but these machines were not designed to cut rigid materials so whether several shallow passes would kill your machine going into that material I don't know. My gut says it's not a good idea and would likely void your warranty. Scoring is generally a job for a diamond tipped instrument and these motors do not generate a lot of torque. I think this may be a question best asked to Roland.


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## mooreaa (Dec 14, 2008)

kpk703 said:


> The Graphtec and Roland machines are very similar in capabilities. I believe the Graphtec advertises and I know some on these forums have had some experience cutting larger stock requiring a greater downforce (the Graphtec does offer a greater downforce.) That being said, and having owned both, I prefer the Roland. Either will do your job...Roland has a little better optical eye system in IMHO. Both are quite rugged machines. Depth of blade is a manual adjustment, downforce is a computerized adjustment. Roland can do perforating and scoring, but Roland doesn't give you a lot of info on how to do it...I and others here can help you with that if it's a priority.
> 
> The local dealer who I purchased my original Graphtec from said that cutting thicker materials did not cause the machine to be over-stressed. I think he said that a little while before we had to replace two motors. I don't care what you buy, none of these vinyl cutters is built to cut very heavy materials day-in-and-day out without stressing the motors. We managed to kill motors cutting sandblast mask...granted it was a lot of sandblast mask over a period of time, but they can only do so much. The sharper the blade the less strain on the motor. The deeper the cut, the more torque on the motor and gearing. But if you're cutting 100, you'll be fine, just go slow. Nothing like driving a deeply embedded blade through thick material at high speed.



Ken I appreciate the info you've given me thus far. I received my machine today and made my first cut per the instructions and everything went perfect. 

I would like to start cutting some slightly thicker material (card stock) using this machine. I would like to try and make some packaging materials and am looking to figure out how to do the perforation and scoring.

Also I'm looking for a place to get the materials I will need to make the above cuts. Since I am going to be going all the way though the sheet I need a carrier board of some kind. Can you recommend where I might buy this?

Thanks always


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

mooreaa said:


> Ken I appreciate the info you've given me thus far. I received my machine today and made my first cut per the instructions and everything went perfect.
> 
> I would like to start cutting some slightly thicker material (card stock) using this machine. I would like to try and make some packaging materials and am looking to figure out how to do the perforation and scoring.
> 
> ...


Can't help you with the materials other than to say I've purchased 120 pound stock at office depot. 60 degree blades can be purchased in a number of places...even eBay if you're careful. I've purchased CleanCut blades on eBay before. For a carrier the most cost efficient is the Cricut that you can buy at Walmart or order online. Preforations can be created in a number of ways by creating a broken path depending on the software you are using or directly in Cut Studio.


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## euro (Mar 29, 2009)

Hi Ken (kpk703)! 
I would like to say a very BIG THANKS TO YOU! for your posts. because you have helped me alot too.

Your well informative answers and useful infos you wrote to us,
about "Die cutting with Roland GX24", answered all of my questions i had for many days till now, which i couldn't find this answers, in no other place.

Thanks again!


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