# trouble after maintnance on SWF1201



## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

Bought this SWF 1201 last March(its about 8 years old). its been going great .had a slack day so i thought i'd do a bit of maintenance/greasing. noticed that some of the rollers for the colour change cam weren't turning so took the plate off then soaked them overnight in CRC/WD40. Put it back plus all the guards etc this morning and went to sew the last job i'd done. set a needle colour but when started it went to a different colour(is there a trick to lining the cam and rollers up?) also only sewed for about 15 stiches then stopped and said thread break but thread was still intact, pressed start and same again etc,etc. Would this be somthing to do with the encoder/hand wheel as i moved it as well.
hope someone can help me out only a newbie to embroidery
cheers olly


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

Check swfdtg.com, there should be video's that show you how to adjust the color change motor - http://www.swfdtg.com/Table/Standard-Machine-Support/

Alternatively, you can buy a video DVD that has all the maintenance and repair instructions on it at the link below, the instructor in the videos is John Dunbar, I met him at the SWF Training center in Shrewsbury NJ...

www.*embroidery*trainingvideos.com


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## FatKat Printz (Dec 26, 2008)

Ollly-

So when it did the thread break was it switching colors and didn't cut??


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

I don't know how it is on a SWF, but on my Tajima, there is a thread break sensor that is connected with a ribbon cable and rides on a rail behind the upper portion of the head and fits around the back rotary disk on the rotary thread break detectors. That sensor fits in a groove, and if you get that sensor out of that groove, it will not detect the thread break detectors are turning, therefore it will show as a thread break. Make sure that detector or where it needs to be.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

Also on the color change gear, on the Tajima, you put it back on in position one and to the far left. I don't know if the SWF is that way or not. Just trying to throw things out in case it rings a bell or prompts an idea.


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## gotshirtz001 (Sep 23, 2008)

Was this the first time using this color?

Follow the thread up and make sure that it is making the full 360 degree turn where the thread break sensor is.


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

FatKat Printz said:


> Ollly-
> 
> So when it did the thread break was it switching colors and didn't cut??


 No,the design is the one colour. Its just when I set the needle it went to a different one.


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

gotshirtz001 said:


> Was this the first time using this color?
> 
> Follow the thread up and make sure that it is making the full 360 degree turn where the thread break sensor is.


 no,ive been using this colour before


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

tfalk said:


> Check swfdtg.com, there should be video's that show you how to adjust the color change motor - Standard Machine Support | Table
> 
> Alternatively, you can buy a video DVD that has all the maintenance and repair instructions on it at the link below, the instructor in the videos is John Dunbar, I met him at the SWF Training center in Shrewsbury NJ...
> 
> www.*embroidery*trainingvideos.com


 Thanks Ted,
that might explain the wrong needle(setting the potentieometer)I'd had a quick look at that site before but didn't check out the videos. Might stop me from asking stupid Q's on this site. going to the shop now so i'll give it a try
again thanks and i'll keep you informed
olly


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

No luck so far with the threads breaks (that dont break) noticed a small toggle switch on the circuit board up the top and thought i might have bumped it so changed its position then aloha it sewed without thread breaks but didn't shut down when there was a thread break !!. Can't work out why the machine was working perfect before oiling/greasing and then doing this. The only thing i took apart was the needle change roller plate to soak the rollers overnight. Still not going to the right needle selection (set it to go from #7 to #6 but it went from #8 to #10 !!!) but haven't tried the potentiometer setting yet as couldn't get to the c/c setting. Had a another look on the swfeast site and will try again in the morning. This is driving me nuts !! 
hoping for some more help
olly


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

Sounds to me like thread detect is not adjusted properly or cable is unplugged. Look back behind tension base and see if your connected or not lined up


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

Again, make sure the thread break sensor on the back side is connected and it is in the proper place. On the needle position, I am lost. I can see it being one off, but not two or more.


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

If the color change is off like that the easiest thing to do do is remove the needle case leaving bearing on machine. Tell machine to go too needle one. Reattach needle case being sure that needle one is over hole in needle plate. Unless you removed potentiometer/ flag you should be cool. Sounds like mechanically your on one number and electronically on another which will register false thread breaks. Call or email if you have question.


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

MURRAY said:


> If the color change is off like that the easiest thing to do do is remove the needle case leaving bearing on machine. Tell machine to go too needle one. Reattach needle case being sure that needle one is over hole in needle plate. Unless you removed potentiometer/ flag you should be cool. Sounds like mechanically your on one number and electronically on another which will register false thread breaks. Call or email if you have question.


Todd 
what do you mean by the needle case ? (the needle change box?) and with the bearing you mean the 12 rollers ? I haven't touched the potent/flag(what is the flag). So being on the wrong number will cause the thread breaks as well. Thats what I couldn't under stand as they were working perfect before! Also the toggle switch on the circuit board is that just another thread break switch?
Thanks for your help so far,sorry about all the Qs but like I said before its driving me nuts. 
cheers
olly


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

olly said:


> Todd
> what do you mean by the needle case ? (the needle change box?) and with the bearing you mean the 12 rollers ? I haven't touched the potent/flag(what is the flag). So being on the wrong number will cause the thread breaks as well. Thats what I couldn't under stand as they were working perfect before! Also the toggle switch on the circuit board is that just another thread break switch?
> Thanks for your help so far,sorry about all the Qs but like I said before its driving me nuts.
> cheers
> olly



On my Tajima, I can turn off my thread break sensor but the problem is when their is really a thread break, the machine won't stop. Have you checked to make sure the thread break sensor, that is more than like attached by a wire or ribbon cable, is in the correct slot behind the head and at the thread break detector that it is actually sewing on. On my Tajima the backside of the thread break detectors have a perforated disk that the thread break sensor straddles. When this perforated disk spins due to the fact that you have thread guided through the front part of it, the sensor senses that the thread is moving, henc no break. However if the perforated disk quits spinning, then the sensor determines that the thread is not moving, hence a break. If the thread break detector is not correctly centered/placed, the thread break detector can be rotating, but since the sensor is not positioned correctly it automatically doesn't detect the rotating perforated disk, and therefore thinks the thread is not moving and signals a thread break. I have had that happen on my Tajima when I didn't get the sensor positioned correctly.


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

LUV DEM TIGERS said:


> On my Tajima, I can turn off my thread break sensor but the problem is when their is really a thread break, the machine won't stop. Have you checked to make sure the thread break sensor, that is more than like attached by a wire or ribbon cable, is in the correct slot behind the head and at the thread break detector that it is actually sewing on. On my Tajima the backside of the thread break detectors have a perforated disk that the thread break sensor straddles. When this perforated disk spins due to the fact that you have thread guided through the front part of it, the sensor senses that the thread is moving, henc no break. However if the perforated disk quits spinning, then the sensor determines that the thread is not moving, hence a break. If the thread break detector is not correctly centered/placed, the thread break detector can be rotating, but since the sensor is not positioned correctly it automatically doesn't detect the rotating perforated disk, and therefore thinks the thread is not moving and signals a thread break. I have had that happen on my Tajima when I didn't get the sensor positioned correctly.


Craig,
the SWF has a thread break switch at the front that is on. This other switch I found is on the top circuit board behind the sensors and when i switched it it sewed but didn't detect actual breaks i thought i might have moved it by mistake. when i switch it the other way it only sews 15-20 st then stops(saying break but no actual break). hit start and same again and on and on I looked at all the connections and they seem intact. nothing has been moved or touched as i only took the cover off to get to the needle cam.
thanks
olly (well sort this out!!!) Australia Day holiday today so going for a few beers to chill out.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

olly said:


> Craig,
> the SWF has a thread break switch at the front that is on. This other switch I found is on the top circuit board behind the sensors and when i switched it it sewed but didn't detect actual breaks i thought i might have moved it by mistake. when i switch it the other way it only sews 15-20 st then stops(saying break but no actual break). hit start and same again and on and on I looked at all the connections and they seem intact. nothing has been moved or touched as i only took the cover off to get to the needle cam.
> thanks
> olly (well sort this out!!!) Australia Day holiday today so going for a few beers to chill out.



Just make sure you didn't pull the wire loose that connects to the thread break sensor.


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## olly (Sep 9, 2009)

MURRAY said:


> If the color change is off like that the easiest thing to do do is remove the needle case leaving bearing on machine. Tell machine to go too needle one. Reattach needle case being sure that needle one is over hole in needle plate. Unless you removed potentiometer/ flag you should be cool. Sounds like mechanically your on one number and electronically on another which will register false thread breaks. Call or email if you have question.


Finally got it thanks todd
i didn't realise that you can move needles by pressing numbers on contol panel (only got a brief run down on the machine when bought it 2nd hand)pressed #1 and it stopped at #4 #2 at 5 etc. instead of removing needle case just loosened two bolts for the colour change box, leant it back moved the needles to the right position pushed the box forward again and fastened the bolts. Back to normal and with no thread break drama. Machine even running quieter and seemingly better.don't think had ever been greased !!!
thanks everyone who replied the this thread and another remedy in the memory bank
thanks
olly


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## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

olly said:


> Finally got it thanks todd
> i didn't realise that you can move needles by pressing numbers on contol panel (only got a brief run down on the machine when bought it 2nd hand)pressed #1 and it stopped at #4 #2 at 5 etc. instead of removing needle case just loosened two bolts for the colour change box, leant it back moved the needles to the right position pushed the box forward again and fastened the bolts. Back to normal and with no thread break drama. Machine even running quieter and seemingly better.don't think had ever been greased !!!
> thanks everyone who replied the this thread and another remedy in the memory bank
> thanks
> olly



If you are like me, one year from now you will have the same problem and forget the fix. I have to write notes down to remember some crap.


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## Iconify (Nov 21, 2009)

I don't know most of these solutions but one thing I will say is that WD-40 (Water Displacement-40) is ok as a cleaner but absolutely horrible as a lubricant.


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