# iColor 600 vs. Oki 920WT printer



## Kimsie (Oct 5, 2007)

Does anyone have a suggestion one way or the other with these 2 printers? I'm looking for something to do small orders with excellent quality and printing with white ink is a must.
Thanks!


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## Gary T (Jan 29, 2011)

Kimsie said:


> Does anyone have a suggestion one way or the other with these 2 printers? I'm looking for something to do small orders with excellent quality and printing with white ink is a must.
> Thanks!


I just found out about the Uninet iColor 600-- WOW! Am I impressed. I have been looking at the Okidata 920 WT for a long, long time and never came across the Uninet iColor 600 (or 500 for 8.5 x 11). One thing I do not like with the Okidata is that there is no true black in the 920WT. Oki does make a CYMKW laser but it is around $20,000--- ridiculous. Without the true black cartridge, the Oki 'mixes' colors to try to get to some sort of a black--- but, I've heard it's a 'muddy' black. I think the idea of being able to swap in a white toner cartridge after it prints true CYMK for the white underbase is brilliant. And as a bonus, it seems you can even swap in fluorescent colors along with the fluorescent white. One thing I'm not sure about is if that iColor 600 would be able to work with 12.5" x 19" of Forever Laser paper sold by Conde---- I do like that extra 1.5 inch width. At this point- I'm leaning iColor 600 simply because I can get that true black. But it's still a lot of money for a lot of plastic.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Actually IColor 600 is single pass CMYK with white toner when the K toner/drum set is replaced with white toner. It uses a tabloid CMYK color printer first and CMYW second. The Uninet IColor TransferRip remaps the C and K, when the K toner/drum set is filled with white toner and physically swapped with the C toner/drum set, to print white of full color image in single pass.

You can read about it here: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p3807210-post2.html

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/printers-inks-inkjet-laser-transfers/t721778.html

In the second link @TedC called Signwarehouse if IColor TransferRip can be purchased by itself, he was told it can be for $800.00 and it supports his C9650 printer. So based on that assumption, technically if you have C831, buy K toner/drum set filled with white toner and purchase IColor TransferRip then you have the equivalent of IColor 600 system for less than the cost of IColor 600 package. C831 refurb is less than $1,300.00 : http://www.printerscopiersandmore.c...BaNgp4VRLxoUBXAwwUcFvchqDepsRO52KQaAqTb8P8HAQ


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## Gary T (Jan 29, 2011)

Lnfortun said:


> Actually IColor 600 is single pass CMYK with white toner when the K toner/drum set is replaced with white toner. It uses a tabloid CMYK color printer first and CMYW second. The Uninet IColor TransferRip remaps the C and K, when the K toner/drum set is filled with white toner and physically swapped with the C toner/drum set, to print white of full color image in single pass.
> 
> You can read about it here: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p3807210-post2.html
> 
> ...


Fascinating possibility...... Question: would you be able to reverse the idea: Buy a C9650 Oki laser printer (reason being, you can print 12" wide (perhaps 12.5" so that the Forever 12.5" x 19" paper could be used), [Mountain Cow sells them for $3395] and then buy BLACK toner (and drum??) for the C9650? I know nothing about laser printers---- if you did this, would you have to swap out the toner AND the drum? I didn't see the UniNet videos swapping out a drum too-- only the toner.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Gary T said:


> Fascinating possibility...... Question: would you be able to reverse the idea: Buy a C9650 Oki laser printer (reason being, you can print 12" wide (perhaps 12.5" so that the Forever 12.5" x 19" paper could be used), [Mountain Cow sells them for $3395] and then buy BLACK toner (and drum??) for the C9650? I know nothing about laser printers---- if you did this, would you have to swap out the toner AND the drum? I didn't see the UniNet videos swapping out a drum too-- only the toner.


Yes you can swap out the oem k toner/drum with k toner/drum set with white toner but not swap C tone/drum and K toner/drum set if you do not use IColor TransferRIP. Also it would be a 2 pass CMYW and not single pass printing.

I do 2 pass CMYW printing with my obsolete C5200ne successfully using translucent toner.


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## kennethw (Apr 17, 2017)

Lnfortun said:


> In the second link @TedC called Signwarehouse if IColor TransferRip can be purchased by itself, he was told it can be for $800.00 and it supports his C9650 printer. So based on that assumption, technically if you have C831, buy K toner/drum set filled with white toner and purchase IColor TransferRip then you have the equivalent of IColor 600 system for less than the cost of IColor 600 package. C831 refurb is less than $1,300.00 : Okidata 62441001, Okidata Oki C831n Color Laser Printer, Refurbished (62441001)


Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm really interested in this and was just about to get an OKI 831 to do this.

However, I got a reply from iColor saying that "our RIP is for the iColor 600 only".

I've posed the same question to SignWarehouse and am waiting a reply.

Can someone confirm that they have used the iColor TransferRIP with an OKI 831 successfully?

Many thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

kennethw said:


> Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm really interested in this and was just about to get an OKI 831 to do this.
> 
> However, I got a reply from iColor saying that "our RIP is for the iColor 600 only".
> 
> ...


I don't own IColor 600 system but if you read the manual I posted the link below the installation on page 9 says use C831 model. The printer also looks like C831TS. @TedC was told that the chips are swapped also to make the single pass work. @TedC never did post anymore about IColor 600 TransferRip.

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_149305848870912&key=6ba4d2065aadca6caf7ee1cc1bf9ef79&libId=j1wggydd0100on84000DAqgcsd3n1&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.t-shirtforums.com%2Fprinters-inks-inkjet-laser-transfers%2Ft716570.html&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.signwarehouse.com%2FMiva%2FPDFs%2FUserGuides%2FiColor%2520600%2520User%2520Manual.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.t-shirtforums.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fsearchid%3D21941610&title=Which%20OKI%20printer%20are%20the%20guys%20using%20for%20white%20by%20just%20swapping%20in%20a%20white%20cartridge..%20-%20T-Shirt%20Forums&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.signwarehouse.com%2FMiva%2FP...r%2520Manual.pdf

I had sample swatches from another vendor of IColor 600 system in New York. The black is not true black. That is one of the complaints about CMYW printer. The black is composite CMY black which is dull grayish black. Also a slight tug maked the image crack. I could only imagine how it will look after it has been through the washer/dryer. BTW the instruction specifically says wash in cold water and hang dry.

It had been driven more often than not that rasterizing with TransferRip will soften and minimize cracking. I agree about the softening part but the areas of the image that are still solid (Not rasterized) will crack when stretched or had been through the washer/dryer.


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## kennethw (Apr 17, 2017)

@Lnfortun, thanks for the information. Lot more noob questions from me.

From what I have read, all CMYW printers give muted Blacks. A CMYKW printer like the 941 is just too expensive for now.

I was thinking of using an 831 and getting another Black Drum to fill with White Toner, then do a 2 pass via manipulation within Photoshop.

As you mentioned, solids tend to crack after a few washings. That's why I was interested in the TransferRIP where they can 'screen' the image which they claim to soften and also make it more wash-durable.

The Forever and iColor TransferRIP looks identical except for the profiles, with more functionality in the iColor one; but it doesn't work with a 831.

So, now I'm leaning towards the iColor 600 system and doing a two-pass to get real Black, while using the RIP to control the White Overlay or Underlay and using the screen function for soft-hand and wash-durability.

Have I just confused myself, or am I on the right track?

Thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

kennethw said:


> @Lnfortun, thanks for the information. Lot more noob questions from me.
> 
> From what I have read, all CMYW printers give muted Blacks. A CMYKW printer like the 941 is just too expensive for now.
> 
> ...


When doing two pass you can't rasterize both the CMYK image and White underbase and not have registration issue when printing them one over the other. The only way it can be done is to rasterize the image then print it in single pass mode. One way is remove the black color of the image if the shirt is black and you don't like the muted black. Again if you are going to rasterize you have to print in single pass mode.

Here is how I do 2 pass printing.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachments/228466d1490950527-printing-laser-transfers-like-screen-printed-transfers-white-over-print-1-step-sheet-transfer-negative-grayscale.pdf

You can also use a black silhouette of the CMY instead of the Negative grayscale to print white toner over the CMYK image on the 2nd pass.


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## kennethw (Apr 17, 2017)

@Lnfortun Wow, thanks for the information.

From what I understand of what you are saying, to print a 2-pass one uses the normal printer driver.

Interestingly, iColor actually called me this afternoon and the lady on the phone re-confirmed that the iColor TransferRIP cannot be used on an OKI c831. When I asked her about doing a 2 pass with the 'screen' function, she said 'Yes'.

Regardless, I'm still leaning more towards the iColor600 because I can't find any documentation that says I can do what underlay on the OKI. But since I can't use the TransferRIP, then I'm also considering getting and OKI c831 and getting an extra 'K' drum and fill it with White Toner from the 711WT or 920WT and do 2 passes using the normal printer driver.

My head is spinning now.

Thanks.


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## locnar (Jan 25, 2015)

I have the Oki C711WT and those concerned with how dark the composite black is, it is black, not "gray" at all. It's comparable to any rich dark black for most laser and inkjet printers. Also the magic happens with the Rip software and compatible media/paper you are printing to, if you are experimenting, not sure what settings to choose, be prepared to have a bad day.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

kennethw said:


> @Lnfortun Wow, thanks for the information.
> 
> From what I understand of what you are saying, to print a 2-pass one uses the normal printer driver.
> 
> ...


Good luck. I know I can't print rasterized image with 2 pass printing without registration issue. Even though I can create rasterized images. That includes screening. 

Just to remind you. You have to print the rasterized CMY or CMYK first on the A sheet. Then print a rasterized negative grayscale or black silhouette of a duplicate of the CMY or CMYK image on the same A sheet. That is where the registration issue comes into play.

Hope you get what your are looking for with Icolor TransferRip and 2 pass printing. Please keep us posted.

Get sample swatches to see what you are getting with Icolor 600 system.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Here is the instruction for rasterizing using Photoshop CS or CC. Elements don't work. The output image is made for black shirt only.

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...www.dropbox.com/s/jgvtx37dye...20eng.pdf?dl=0


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## kennethw (Apr 17, 2017)

@Lnfortun ... thanks.

I've been talking to AL at ATT, and am also considering his Sublimation System since that should be the most wash-durable. In fact, I was talking to him before I 'discovered' the iColor 600.

I already have a Sublimation Printer in a converted Epson 7880. How, just have to look for a cheap Tabloid printer.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

kennethw said:


> @Lnfortun ... thanks.
> 
> I've been talking to AL at ATT, and am also considering his Sublimation System since that should be the most wash-durable. In fact, I was talking to him before I 'discovered' the iColor 600.
> 
> I already have a Sublimation Printer in a converted Epson 7880. How, just have to look for a cheap Tabloid printer.


Ask Al for sample of inkjet printed sublimation and white toner printed transfers that you can marry and press on the shirt. Do wash/dryer durability test. I recommend that the shirt to be kept stretched when pressing the transfer to minimize cracking.


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## sejohnson (May 18, 2013)

Lnfortun, how much stretch do you use with this process. I don't want it to be too stretched. I am looking into this process and purchasing a printer. I am also concerned about the feel of the shirts. I am anxiously awaiting samples. Thanks.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

sejohnson said:


> Lnfortun, how much stretch do you use with this process. I don't want it to be too stretched. I am looking into this process and purchasing a printer. I am also concerned about the feel of the shirts. I am anxiously awaiting samples. Thanks.


There is a member that made a stretcher and man by the look of it it really will stretch the shirt. I made a telescoping unit so I can use it for different sizes. I used it for a few times because it was cumbersome and I have small space around my heat press.

So what I had been doing is lower the upper platen on the shirt without locking it. I pull along the sides of the shirt from top to bottom as hard as I can. Lock the platen for 5 seconds to remove the wrinkle, moisture and keep the shirt from spring back to normal. Open the press, align the transfer the press using the heat transfer instruction settings. BTW I have a swing heat press. It will not work with clamshell.

For smaller size that does not overhang the lower platen use teflon pillow that is larger than the shirt. Or use a board big enough to stretch the shirt. Insert it inside the shirt. Insert a teflon pillow between the shirt and the board. Don't use corrugate material. It is not durable for stretching.

Another thing you need to know. I use to re-press the shirt, covered with parchment paper, after I peel. I found that the polymer of the heat transfer on the shirt became brittle after sitting for 24 hours before wash. It cracked when stretched. So instead of re-pessing after peel I wait 24 hours. Press the shirt covered with parchment paper with the same settings. Then stretched the shirt while warm. That makes the polymer soft and pliable even after sitting for few hours. It may crack some but spring back to normal.

The post below shows the stretcher.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p1250872-post8.html

The one I made.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p1937489-post8.html


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## sejohnson (May 18, 2013)

Thank you, do you have a paper that you feel is better than others as far as cracking, feel and durability? You can PM if you prefer.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

sejohnson said:


> Thank you, do you have a paper that you feel is better than others as far as cracking, feel and durability? You can PM if you prefer.


I prefer 2 step self weeding ImageClip laser light over other none self weeding and single step weeding laser transfer. I had been using the product since day one when it came to the market. It has been failed me yet. No complaint. It is durable, vibrant and softer than most laser transfer. I prefer it over inkjet transfer because of the self weeding aspect. Plus laser printer don't clog.

Photos below are Imageclip Laser Light new and old version. The artworks are embroidery mockup.

I ran out of new version so I used the old version of B sheet and ImageClip Laser dark A sheet to finish the order. I did not see any difference between the old and new version. The weeding is a bit different. Because Laser dark A sheet worked with B sheet and cold peeled of the shirt I have reason to believe that Laser light and Laser Dark A sheets are the same. IMHO the logos on the back are the only difference.



















For dark I prefer ImageClip Laser Dark and Koncert T over Forever products. The transfers have little hand but it will soften when repressed after 24 hours before wash. Become softer after few washes. Durability wise the manufacture need to work on improving it.

The photo below was printed by accident in single pass with CMYK printer plus translucent toner using ImageClip Laser dark transfer. Either white or translucent toner will work printing this way.










With Koncert T if done right is soft and durable for certain image. The photo below was negative monochrome halftone. Printed with translucent toner on Koncret T. It is very soft. Survived several washes










The photo below was printed with sublimation ink and translucent toner system on ImageClip Laser dark. The registration was off. That is inherent with two images printed on two different sheets (A and B). Translucent toner silhouette of the color image was printed on A sheet and color image was printed sublimation ink on B sheet. Registration can be remedied by choking the silhouette and using light table to align the two sheets. I did not have light table at the time and the silhouette was was not choked.

BTW sublimation and white or translucent is a better solution for dropout issues of very light, gradient and photo when using self weeding laser transfers either light or dark transfer.


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## sejohnson (May 18, 2013)

Thank you for sharing.


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## bobbygirl (Mar 26, 2018)

*Re: icolor 600 transfer paper*

good day everyone

i am in the process of purchasing the icolor 600, which seems suitable for us in the jersey business.....it's all new to us...but the transfer paper i find very expensive to print on both dark and white jerseys....can anyone tell us where we can purchase the icolor 600 transfer papers 100+ at a low price, or a paper that is compatible to use in the machine

thanks sam


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## bwdesigns (Aug 10, 2006)

Personal experience tells me that I would never use this technology to print jerseys because they get a lot of wear and tear, need frequent laundering, and laser transfer technology is not advanced enough to withstand these requirements. I have and use laser, but my jerseys, which I just finished 20 teams of 6 each,I did all with htv (up to 3 colors)
Just my opinion, is all


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## sublial (Mar 24, 2011)

There is a old thread here that was doing this process for years back.
Thread title was. 
I might give up my DTG printer for the laser white toner.

Not exactly the correct title but it is very close,
A lot of info. on that title.
AL La Costa
1-908-213-2830
[email protected]


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## PCs Tees Texas (May 27, 2017)

I LOVE my Oki white! I have OKI printed shirts that have gone through dozens and dozens of washes with no degradation.


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## bwdesigns (Aug 10, 2006)

"be prepared to have a bad day" 
so funny and SO true!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

PCs Tees Texas said:


> I LOVE my Oki white! I have OKI printed shirts that have gone through dozens and dozens of washes with no degradation.


Post close up picture.


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## madpen texan (Nov 29, 2018)

sejohnson said:


> Thank you, do you have a paper that you feel is better than others as far as cracking, feel and durability? You can PM if you prefer.


I would like to know as well. We have an icolor 600, but the papers are SO expensive. ALSO I haven't been able to get a strong enough laydown of white toner to be able to print on anything other than a white shirt, even with 400% white. I'm now being told to use a two-step paper which is WAY expensive! Any resolution to this?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

You will be happier with Neenah's Imageclip transfers.


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## tkster95 (Aug 11, 2011)

I got samples from both the icolor print system as well as the Oki at a tradeshow a couple months ago. 

Both samples were spot color, both were on black shirts. The icolor print was the "Carnival" image i'm sure a lot of you have seen with a bunch of party hats and masks on it. The Oki was a promo for the tradeshow with the city name and a generic design. 

Both images looked great as far as a spot color print goes. I was impressed with the feel as well. Less hand than the spot color prints I do with screen printing (I use a lot of ink with multiple passes to ensure opacity). I don't think any customer would ever complain about the feel of these products. They do have a bit of a plastic feel (unlike dtg which is quite soft) but not an issue in my opinion. 

The icolor print system has been washed three times so far in a heavy duty laundry mat machine with extra hot water and no consideration for the print (also had jeans, coats etc in the load). Every time I pick up the shirt I give it a stretch as well. It does crack when stretched but seems to spring back. After having the shirts for a couple months and stretching it dozens of times, just looking at it you can't see any cracks (but they always become apparent when being stretched). On the shirt I received there was actually two of the same carnival print. I forget why there was two.. I think they were trying to showcase different ink settings for the same design (one of the prints looks a tiny bit brighter than the other). Also to make matters more confusing, when I first got home, I cut the shirt in half and sent one of the prints through my forced air conveyor dryer (the one that is slightly brighter) so maybe the prints were the same and the conveyor dryer made it pop more idk. (I'll probably end up sending the other through the conveyor to see if that made the print brighter.) The image I sent through the conveyor also seems to be a bit more resilient to cracking and when it does crack seems to spring back better than the one I didn't send through the conveyor (but again that may be due to the settings they used when printing the image). One thing to note, there really isn't any white toner in the design, it used white toner as an under base, but there is color toner covering all the white except a small portion at the bottom that has their .com address. I think the white toner by itself would likely show more cracking (maybe because there is more contrast to the shirt, or possibly because the color toner on top adds a bit of durability idk)

I put the oki print through the same washes in the heavy duty laundry mat machine. And just like the icolor i've stretched it dozens of times. I also sent the oki print through my forced air conveyor dryer when I got home from the tradeshow. There is white in the oki print, unlike the icolor print i received. In the white parts of the print, you can see cracks, even when its not in the process of being stretched. The parts of the design that have color in the print, do crack when stretched but spring back and you can't notice the crack when its not actually being stretched. 

What I can muster from my experiments is this; both the icolor and oki systems are likely exactly the same as far as durability goes. They do crack when stretched but in parts of the design with color, the cracking is less apparent. The white parts of the design will show cracks more during and after stretching. 

I can't say much about the color differences between the two machines because I haven't see the same image printed by both. I can say that I am pretty impressed by how vivid the icolor Carnival print is. As far as the prints from the oki booth, nothing stuck out as bad or off color (due to not having black). Each would probably be sufficient in this manner but I would prefer to have the ability to print with a black.

As far as the rip software is concerned; I was not impress at all by the photorealistic images I saw at the icolor booth. I though all the rasterization looked poorly done with big noticeable holes. I don't know if the end user could tweak the settings and make a better rasterized image or not, but from what I saw at their booth I was not impressed. The rasterized images from oki looked a lot cleaner and better done. Again, not sure if its the rip software or the end user controlling it but I def liked what I saw at the oki booth better. I also saw a spot color image at the oki booth that, through the rip software, had been sliced up throughout to avoid cracking when stretched. Looked alright, but I wouldn't want to do that to all my prints. 

I've been reading up on this process as much as possible here on the forums. I'm def curious about Al's process at att. I'm curious if anyone who has seen a sample of that process (cmyw toner with sublimation ink married to it) can let us know if the white portions of the image show cracks more apparently than the parts with color? Also, will the process with a clear transparency be available in a tabloid size (11x17) sheet? 

I was checking out the oki site and saw they have a CMYK+W printer (Pro9541WT) that is currently priced at about 13K. It also prints at a higher resolution than the others (1200x1200 compared to 1200x600) I'm wondering if anyone has ever tired that. Can't find any talk about it on the internet. I'll probably make a new tread asking about that machine but figured I'd mention it here because it looks like it came down in price compared to some of the quotes others in this thread have mentioned. I'm wondering if the 1200x1200 dpi will increase or decrease the stretchability and cracking of the prints. I also like the fact that you can get the CMYK+W seemingly on one pass. I'd be very leary to trust a machine like the icolor that will require you to feed the same sheet twice into the machine. I imagine registration would be a major issue. I imagine the system Al and Lnfortun have been working on, that requires you to print on two separate sheets, would be much more consistent with registration. (I say that because before I got a dedicated screen printing transparency printer, I was never able to get my prints black enough to block out the light when exposing my screens. At first I tried to feed the same transparency through the printer, and probably 1 out of 10 times it would line up correctly. I ended up having to print the same image on three separate transparencies... then after I would line them all up and tape them together to make it opaque enough to work with my light box for exposing screens.) The icolor is probably more consistent than the printer I was using back then, but I can still imagine how it would mess up a lot of papers due to registration. I understand 13K is a major investment for the Pro9541WT, but if it can solve the cracking and do it all in one pass, that price tag would be worth it.. still cheaper than most dtg's.

Sorry for the long post but I'm really interested in purchasing a new system and want to ensure I get the best for my business. I still don't know if the icolor / oki / Att system is right for me. I've also been considering a bn-20 if anyone has any thought on how that stacks up here I'd appreciate the input.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

tkster95 said:


> As far as the rip software is concerned; I was not impress at all by the photorealistic images I saw at the icolor booth. I though all the rasterization looked poorly done with big noticeable holes. I don't know if the end user could tweak the settings and make a better rasterized image or not, but from what I saw at their booth I was not impressed. The rasterized images from oki looked a lot cleaner and better done. Again, not sure if its the rip software or the end user controlling it but I def liked what I saw at the oki booth better.


You can definately control how the images are rasterized. Some look better with dots, others with lines... Personally I think it works better using the the micro mask and setting the lines to follow the weave of the shirt but everybody looks at things differently - what you perceive as looking good may be the opposite to someone else.


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## mrsgrab (Jun 13, 2019)

I know this is an old post, but curious about what you went with...I'm debating on all of the same that you've been debating


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## xplosieve (Mar 14, 2016)

Hi, having issues in getting a black. What settings do you use please. I will appreciate it if you share with me.


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## sublial (Mar 24, 2011)

You need to think what the cost of the system you are purchasing if you are only doing small quanities of shirts a year. If you add $1.00 cost to be applied to each shirt you make to pay down your printer that could be 13,000 shirts for the Oki 5 color or 13 to 20,000 for a DTG.
Printing onto dark cotton isn,t a slam dunk. If you are needing volumes of dark color shirts you would be better off screen printing them yourself or jobbing them out.
If you can get a similar job from a system less then a $1,000.00 then why spend Thousands of dollars for something you hardly use everyday.


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## paulgrey (1 mo ago)

Actually IColor 600 is single pass CMYK with white toner when the K toner/drum set is replaced with white toner. It uses a tabloid CMYK color printer first and CMYW second. The Uninet IColor TransferRip remaps the C and K, when the K toner/drum set is filled with white toner and physically swapped with the C toner/drum set, to print white of full color image in single pass. You can read about it here: Which OKI printer are the guys using for white by just... How to print to Oki 9650? In the second link @TedC called Signwarehouse if IColor TransferRip can be purchased by itself, he was told it can be for $800.00 and it supports his C9650 printer. So based on that assumption, technically if you have C831, buy K toner/drum set filled with white toner and purchase IColor TransferRip then you have the equivalent of IColor 600 system for less than the cost of IColor 600 package. C831 refurb is less than $1,300.00 : https://discountcopiercenter.com/


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