# DIY vacuum platen from old screen frame



## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

hello all!

Im not much of a poster, more of an observer, but i decided to share an experience that i had because i think it would be a help to other small printers. 

This began by the need of printed mailers. i would have just sent out, but every company i looked at had 5-10,000+ minimums. way beyond my current needs. so i looked into printing them myself. in addition i have been printing plastisol transfers, so i really needed a vacuum platen. 

i am not a professional printer (yet) and in the real world i work at a job that has a seasonal income flux. in other words, the winter sucks between lack of income and holidays, so i have (marginally) more time than money. 

_FIRST OF ALL.... before anyone jumps down my throat, yes i am aware that pnw machining has a very nice setup for $160._ it is very nice and i just may upgrade in the future. i am also not a pro printer and do not use this for my livelihood. i am also creative, and sometimes i just like to build things with my own two hands. why else would i want to screen print? i also enjoy looking at objects and trying to figure out how else i can use them.

anyway, i just happened to have some old screen frames lying around and got to thinking that it would be the perfect dimensions for a vacuum platen. in fact all the hard work was just about done for me. i also happened to have a spare bracket floating around for my one color silver press, which i would have had to buy anyway had i bought a factory platen.

here is the parts list and final tally:
*STUFF I HAD*

1 old 20 x 24 screen frame
1 bracket
assorted hardware, finishing washers, wood screws etc. no more than $5 if i had to buy it in the 97¢ bags at home depot
wood glue

*HOME DEPOT*

1 sheet of 1/4" 24x48 mdf board $5.97
1 sheet of 3/16" 24x48 black chalk board $9.87 _(went with black because everything i print on is white and it gives me good contrast)_ 
1 8' pine furring strip $1.04
1 box #8 5/8" self tapping sheet metal screws $6.97 _(overkill, but i use them on other projects. could have gotten away with small bag)_
1 tube silicone seal $2.28
1 syringe of quick set epoxy $4.57

*LOWES*

shop vac universal adaptor $10.62


so all total im into it out of pocket $42.32 plus tax and about 4 hours of work. well, it took about 4 hours, but alot of that was standing around drinking coffee and planning. the single most time consuming part was drilling all the holes. 

i would have used the small adaptor set, but i liked the square flange with the screw holes. plus, it's not plastic, but a hard rubber which gives a good seal. 

when it was all assembled, the final weight came out to shade over 11 lbs. that is only about 3/4 lb over my 20x24 platen. 

for a foot switch, i am just using a simple $4.88 one from home depot. there are some router switches on amazon that i will eventually get. 

the following posts will give all the details and images, because it is easier to show it than talk about it.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

here are the raw materials. i also forgot to mention that there was almost enough just in my shopping list to make 2 platens, minus the hose adaptor and bracket.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

i modified the hose adaptor by throwing it in my bandsaw and cutting it down to where i needed it.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

i used a square to make a cutting fence and cut it with a skill saw. my table saw only handles up to 18" so i couldnt use it. then i used silicone sealer on the bottom board and screwed it in every 4"


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

test fitting the brackets. i ran the bracket through my bandsaw and re-drilled the holes for the tightener and flanges because i thought it was going to be heavier than it was, so i was trying to distribute the weight evenly across the back board so that it wouldnt flex or sag. not necessary.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

building the inner skeleton. i ran two ribs down the middle from end to end so that when it is glued and screwed down, that i would have a inflexible ridge down the middle in which to attach the brackets. 

the holes are for air flow through vacuum chamber and are drilled using a 15/16" paddle bit. the furring strip had to be ran through my table saw to shave off a bit because the aluminum is not quite 1-1/2" high, more like 1-3/8". 

the ribs are both glued using wood glue and screwed using 1" wood screws and finishing washers from the bottom up.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

drilled the vacuum port with a 2-1/2" hole saw, sealed the adaptor using silicone, and bolted it on with #10 bolts with washers.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

attaching the top deck. 

the first time i tried to place the top deck, i had the vacuum attached and then i turned it on. i couldnt even budge it when i was trying to adjust it! it was totally sealed even before i glued the top down. 

used wood glue on the ribs and quick set epoxy on the aluminum. the syringe for the epoxy had two nozzles, so i just ran them over and under all around the top edge so one stream laid directly on the other and came back with a wooden popsicle stick and mixed everything together. then, i placed about 30lbs in iron on it, clamped it, and turned the vacuum on for about 10 min. i ended up with a small scratch on the surface because of a rough edge on the iron drug across when i was positioning it.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

now the long part, drilling the holes. i used a grid template i made in photoshop using 1" squares in black, with another grid of 1" squares offset in lt gray. i wasnt sure if 1 in spacing was going to be enough airflow to not choke the vacuum, so just in case, i was going to use alternating 1/2" grids. i printed it off on two sheets of 11x17 tabloid and taped it down to the surface. as for the drilling, i used a very sharp #41 (0.096) bit and had my drill locked on. the key is just resting the drill on the board and cut at a high speed to minimize lips around the edge.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

the finished product. well, almost. i will probably sand the edges and paint the edges and bottom white when it warms up. i ran a little steel wool over the edges of the holes to make sure everything was nice and flat, and as you can see, it holds a piece of 15x15 transfer paper perfectly! it also worked like a charm with a poly mailer, although the top of the mailer didn't sit too flat. i think i will have to put a cardboard insert or something in it to make it work. ill figure that out unless anybody has done this before and has suggestions?

anyway, enjoy and good luck.


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## hvnbnd (May 16, 2013)

How is your DIY vacuum platen working? Have you had any issues with it? I would love to build one and save about $400!! Thank you so much for the great picture tutorial!. BTW, PNW is no longer open for business, so you can't get a setup from them for under $200 anymore.


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## skeletrino (Sep 3, 2011)

actually, ive been using it steadily since november and it works like a champ. the only things that i would change is the height and perforations. i have since built a cnc router and i am thinking about redoing the holes with it using a tighter pattern and small diameter. version 1 had all the holes hand drilled.

the platen sits tall, so i had to drill two holes lower down on the screen clamp to make it fit, but other than that, it sits on a ryonet 1 color silver press and i use it all the time for heat press papers and poly mailers. never had a single problem! 

what i think is the coolest thing is that im sure every screen printer has at least one dead aluminum frame laying around somewhere that can be put to use.


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

This is old, but great job guys. 

Would love to see some pics. Maybe I'll add a few.


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## djque (Feb 5, 2013)

How much would you charge to make me one


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

You could probably find a wood CNC shop or Cabinet maker. Performance screen has them with the vacuum for $695.


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## djque (Feb 5, 2013)

Just for the platen


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Believe it's $695 for the whole thing.


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## iamcornelius (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for the great project and step by step pictures!
Just built one of these at my shop, but we used a larger 23"x31" aluminium frame.
Took a couple hours each day this week, and over 600 holes drilled...but it looks the part and works great!

We found that you should be covering up any holes NOT in use, so that your printed material gets maximum succ.


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## djque (Feb 5, 2013)

I ended up buying a vacuum platen 3 years ago. Best thing I did. But have only used it a hand full of times.


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