# Dye Sub Mousepads have washed out colors



## mschrier (Mar 5, 2013)

I have read many thread on mousepad sublimation, but I'm still having problems. My colors are getting very washed out. I am using a Ricoh 3110dn with Sawgrass inks. After some failed attempts last night I realized I was using the wrong substrate selection in my print driver, but this morning I selected the right one, and attempted to print/press a small portion of the image on a mousepad. The first attempt worked "OK" (although not as dark as I would like). So I tried again and the next portion (on the SAME mousepad) came out much lighter. Three attempts later and the results did not match my first attempt this morning.

I am using a Knight JP14 @ 400 degrees, and pressing for 50-60 seconds. 

Is it OK to press onto the same mousepad multiple times (remember I only worked on a portion of the image each time)? Does the heating cycle affect how the polyester accepts the image?

I guess I might try cutting up the mousepad into pieces and working on each piece separately.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

You may be higher than 400 F Check that then try 40 seconds


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## mschrier (Mar 5, 2013)

Actually I thought that my press might be on the cool side, so I increased the setting to 425. That temp. worked for my Unisub/hardwood blanks - I got nice bright results with that. Is it true that a too-high temperature can cause these kind of poor results? I'm am tiring of all this trial and error, so I'm not keen on trying a lower temperature until I hear that this might actually be the issue.

I don't have a temperature probe/tester, so I'm kind of running blind. The mechanical temperature indicator of the Knight heat press does not give me much confidence that it is very accurate.

Just for "fun" I tried pressing a mousepad for almost 90 seconds. It didn't help - I still got faded results. I don't know what that tells me, since I know I should not be going so long. It was just an experiment.

I got one almost satisfactory result pressing a mousepad for 60 seconds, but I could not reproduce it a second time. There's too many potential variables at play so it's hard to isolate the cause(s) for my issues.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Mousepads are pretty bullet proof to sublimate. Many presses are not accurate - our Maxipress was off by 20+ degrees when we first got it.

Are you getting vibrant colors on other substrates?


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## mschrier (Mar 5, 2013)

The Unisub/hardwook looks good - the Unisub/aluminum came out just OK but not outstanding.

One Monday I'm going to call up the local vendor I bought my printer from and get their help.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

mschrier said:


> I have read many thread on mousepad sublimation, but I'm still having problems. My colors are getting very washed out. I am using a Ricoh 3110dn with Sawgrass inks. After some failed attempts last night I realized I was using the wrong substrate selection in my print driver, but this morning I selected the right one, and attempted to print/press a small portion of the image on a mousepad. The first attempt worked "OK" (although not as dark as I would like). So I tried again and the next portion (on the SAME mousepad) came out much lighter. Three attempts later and the results did not match my first attempt this morning.
> 
> Are you using Texprint "R" paper? If so, I can't recall if that paper is watermarked or not, if not print on the side that has the "whitest" white.
> 
> ...


I made markups in questions above.


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## joeshaul (Mar 1, 2008)

Which way are you pressing the mousepad, face down or face up? If you're fairly new, some substrates require you to press face down, but in this instance, I've always pressed my mousepads face up as the bottom of the mousepad will reject heat to an extent and not transfer it as well as say a porcelain tile. 

I always press mine at face up, ~410 degrees, 60 seconds. 

Another issue you could possibly have is make sure your mousepads that you bought are for sublimation. I got a few for regular inkjet transfers a long time ago before I got into sublimation and seemed to recall not liking their finish with both inkjet and sublimation transfers.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Email me your art and I will make you a transfer that you can press. That will remove the transfer from the issue.
[email protected]


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

for 14.95 you can order some temp strips from Stahls.
Heat Press Machine Test Kit | Stahls

Sounds like your using the Power Driver. Try using the ICC profile. I recall some issues when we first started with the PD. 

Yes you can print part of the mouse pad then print on another part. Just make sure you cover the previous pressed parts to keep them from passing on to the next pressing item.

Cheap way to practice is go to a fabric store and buy a few yards of poly fabric and practice with that. Plus that won't smell up the joint like a mouse pad will.

Washed out could be too low temp, too low press time or to low pressure. Or combo of those. But at 400 for 60 secs that should have been enough. Test the pressure and press part of the mouse pad with good heavy pressure and see if it works. Then back off from there.


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## Conde_David (May 29, 2008)

Jp14 press is a low heat press. Run your time up.

Also you could do my strip test.
Print 5 strips of black 
Transfer each one on one mousepad at a different time.
Say low to high.
Yes use a. Icc profile


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## susanlou (Mar 9, 2009)

It may also depend on how thick the mouse pad is. the 1/4" pads absorb a lot of the heat from the platen. Then when you begin the next pad the press may not be as hot as you think. Wait until the heat lamp light turns off then you know it is up to the temp it should be before you start.  I have the same press and have to press for longer times.


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## mschrier (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks to all for the help. Tomorrow l'm getting a thermometer to check the temperature of the press. Then I'll know for sure if the press is to blame. I'll post results in a day or wo.


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