# Appliqu�



## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Appliqué*

I am doing a two color appliqué the top layer is navy and the bottom layer is white tackle twill. I am using a sharp needle. When i am done with the appliqué it has white pieces from the bottom white twill on the top of the navy. I tried to use a lint roller to remove it but it but it doesn't seem to help. 

I adjusted the tension and it doesn't seem to help. 

Any suggestions


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

White bobbin pulling through?


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

No it is not the bobbin pulling through. It is like little specs of white twill. They are hard to remove but most of them come off with a lot of effort. There are still some there and it looks so tacky. I am not sure why this is happening.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

pictures would be helpful


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## jimcr (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: Appliqué*

try tape ?


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## NeonTees (Apr 25, 2010)

*Re: Appliqué*

Are you using pressure sensitive (glue backed) twill?

Teflon coated needles help a little. That glue gets onto the needle and can pull some of the cut twill through and can also glob up and make pieces of the backing come through on the clumps of glue. Tearaway is worse with the glue than cutaway. 


Scott Marino 
Panda Apparel
NeonTees.com
ZeroGravitee.com

Sent from my iPhone using TShirtForums app


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

Yes it is glued back twill. I used cut away backing. I have the regular Teflon needles but not sharps, so I will try that next time. I cleaned the worst of it off but they are still bad. I will try to take a picture.


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

This is after I tried to clean it off, but there is still some left.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

*Re: Appliqué*

Have you tried ballpoint needles instead of sharps? I find they don't tear the twill as much.


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

It's the adhesive it would appear. We get that often, especially with multi layer PSA twills. We have a small shop vac that we keep at the trimming station. While they are still in the hoop we go over them with the vacuum. Takes only a few seconds and works best of any method we've found. Lint rollers just didn't quite do it.

We use a light ball needle. Since we are usually sewing on a knit garment like a sweatshirt, we don't want the sharps damaging the material. Even though the twills can handle a sharp, the outer needle penetrations are still through the substrate only. And on multiple layer twills we will often switch to an 80/12.


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## Liberty (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

What teflon needles do you use? We used to run the Groz Beckert Gebelube needles but have not been able to find them for some time.


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

I will try the shop vac and the ball needle.


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## jimcr (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: Appliqué*



kblack said:


> This is after I tried to clean it off, but there is still some left.


How are you cutting out the letters, are they die cut for you ? 
Are they cut out on a plotter?
I am thinking about doing these types of designs but have not the experience doing so .


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

I have them cut for me and a sew disk made for the embroidery. There are several places that will cut the design for you and send you the sew disk. They are not hard to do.
If I wasn't so busy then I would love to buy a Ioline cutter and do them myself.


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

*Re: Appliqué*

Kathy, the Ioline is so expensive it's tough to justify the cost unless you are doing hundreds of these a week. If you are using PSA Twill, you can cut it with something like a Roland GX24 vinyl cutter which is under $2K. Several of the vendors on this forum including Imprintables sell them - that's how we started doing custom appliques.

If you are doing lettering, another option is a die-cutter. We ended up going that route for greek letters for a client since they also wanted custom fabrics cut to match the letters.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

It looks like the bobbin thread pulling up to me.


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## kblack (Feb 2, 2011)

*Re: Appliqué*

It is little prices of twill, not bobbin. With a lot of work I can clean most of it off.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Appliqué*

I would just use a fabric marker on it


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## DCans (Nov 21, 2009)

*Re: Appliqué*

Well that's the joke in our shop, don't take on an embroidery job that uses a thread color that we don't have a marker that matches.


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## Express D (Mar 21, 2014)

*Re: Appliqué*

Hi Kathy, another option for this is doing the navy as an applique first and then do the white on top as embroidery (not appq).


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