# centering tricks for shirts without centerline?



## brent (Nov 3, 2006)

hi all,
Alot of the shirts i get from my distributor have the centerline, which is fantastic, but shirts that don't have them sometimes end up with an off center print, which makes me quite unhappy.
Does anyone have any tricks to center without the wonderful centerline? I've thought about folding the shirt and trying to create a centerline myself by ironing in a crease. 
Thanks
Brent


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## tcrowder (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*

There is a tool for this here is the link.

http://www.perfecttransfers.com/default.asp?id=1


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## brent (Nov 3, 2006)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*



tcrowder said:


> There is a tool for this here is the link.
> 
> http://www.perfecttransfers.com/default.asp?id=1


I don't see how this could be used with a screening table where the screen is affixed to a hinge and cannot be moved, while it is the tshirt that has to be moved and centered correctly


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*

I think that tool that Terry linked to was for heat transfers, not for screen printing 

I think there might be some tips posted later once a few of our screen printing members see your post.


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## gmille39 (Oct 18, 2006)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*

Brents post did not indicate it was for screen printing, nor heat transfer. I assumed, as crowder did, he was referring to transfer. This looks like a good tool. I use the three finger method for vertical placement and my eye horizontally. Of course some don't look so great afterward so I am looking for a more foolproof method.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*



> Brents post did not indicate it was for screen printing, nor heat transfer. I assumed, as crowder did, he was referring to transfer.


I understand  However, if you check the forum the post is in, it can help to get a background on the printing method being discussed. 

Since this was posted in the screen printing section of the forum (shown right above the thread title on this page), I assumed that he was talking about screen printing. No worries though 

If any screen printers have any tips, please feel free to post.


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## brent (Nov 3, 2006)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*

I'm going to try ironing in my own crease next time i make shirts (using shirts without centerlines), to see if this works. I have a couple of concerns if i do this; 1, I may inadvertenly make an off center crease, and 2, taking the time to make a crease will significantly slow my production time. I may need to make 300 shirts asap in a couple weeks if a big order comes through, and they will be on provided american apparel shirts, which i fear will not have the blessed centerline.
I'll report back on the success of ironing my own centerlines, and if anyone else has ideas, please share.


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## Isla_Print (Oct 12, 2006)

*Re: centering tricks for shirts with centerline?*

good question..

i guess thats why good screenprinters must have an 'eye for detail'.....?
or something like that....makes sense?


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## [email protected] (Oct 11, 2006)

Easy alignment method is to take a tee square and put a centerline on the screenprinting press platen using a "Sharpie". I then put a tee on the platen and look at the weave of the fabric and align it so it runs parallel with my line I made with the sharpie. I then take the sharpie, when I'm satisfied with the tee alingnment, and trace the collar hole on the platen careful not to touch the shirt with the Sharpie (it won't come out). I now have a template for shirt alignment and after a gazillion shirts you won't have a problem...., you will align it prefectly every time. Also use a small amt. of pallet adhesive to prevent the shirt from moving. This works for screenprinting. If you have many shirts to print, ironing a crease will be too time consuming. Also., the label in the shirt is 99% of the time in the center of the collar, another aid for proper alignment.

SGIA has a whole file on alignment for screenprinters. I'm not sure that it can be acessed by non-members or not. I will find out.


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## swannn32 (Sep 1, 2006)

When I print, I slide the shirt on all the way, then I grab the seams at the top of the shirt at either side of the neck hole and make sure they are pulled up the same amount on each side & I also check the weave of the fabric to make sure it is not wavy down the shirt (this takes care of it being crooked vertically). Then to center it horizontally, I grab the seam under each armpit where the three (or two) seams join, and hold them out to make sure they are the hanging off the platen the same distance on both sides. A little tug may be necessary. And always use a light spray adhesive before loading the shirt to hold your centering in place.

This works for most of my shirts. I have used the "collar outline" method as mentioned above for odd things like shirts with no underarm seams or top shoulder seam, and it works okay too.

In the beginning centering the shirt was what took me the longest (my husband still has trouble), but after awhile you don't even realize you are doing it. It gets easier and you'll get so fast at "eyeballing", it will only take you a second to load it.


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## swannn32 (Sep 1, 2006)

Smaller sizes are alot easier to center than 3X+. I hate trying to center 5X shirts!


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## [email protected] (Oct 11, 2006)

Try a 6 to 10XXX. When you get up to one that size and mess it up you just ate some major bucks. The big ones that are long sleeve, the sleeves drag the floor when putting them on the press!!


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## brent (Nov 3, 2006)

replying to say thanks for the tips and to see if my new signature works


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

You can use the same concept that is used by the heat press alignment tool mentioned above with a laser alignment system. Run a line laser vertically down the center of the pallet (or better yet, down the center of the graphic). Then run a second line laser perpendicular to the center line laser so that you can determine if the shirt is square to the pallet using the same 3-point registration concept. Pretty simple concept for those that want the accuracy but lack the eye to do it without the assistance some alignment tool. Loading shirts is definitely an art. Good luck.


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## ASAP Printing (Oct 6, 2006)

Brent,

We just got done with a 3500 peice American apparel job last week. Some of the garments had center lines some didn't. Some even had the fake centerlines. But no worries, just pull your shirt all the way up the pallet, then whiles pulling the shirt from the shoulder seam adjust the shirt so the tag is in the middle. When you from collar reaches the edge drop the shirt. Make any minor adjustments, then lift your sleeves to make sure the fabric from the palet to the edge seam is equal on both sides. Make sure the threads are all straight and not crooked on the rest of the pallet. Also if you have tack on your pallets, the shirt won't spread evenly and will cause ridges, which is a sign that your shirt is not on straight.

All these steps should be done in 4 seconds. Second thing to remember is you're doing a bulk order, and this isn't a nominee for a screenprinting award. Of course some shirts might be not completely centered but, unless you are a cyborg you won't notice a thing. Center is Center, and unless you are quater off, your clients will be happy. Once you get to screenprinting alot more, it will just come natural.


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## [email protected] (Oct 11, 2006)

What ASAP said is true. I'm my own worst critic and see shirts I printed that only I can tell it's not perfectly centered. 

One of the big problems I have along those same lines is getting the artwork level on both heart logos and large front or back designs. Sometimes all the measuring and squaring with the tee square doesn't do any good because the design is not exactly square or level. In that case you have to just EYEBALL it until it LOOKS correct.


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## albsure (Nov 30, 2006)

Dude, Ive been screenprinting for 15+ years in which the last seven years I have owned a contract screenprinting company. I print on alot of overdyes with small center front graphics often with straight lines that magnify the slightest placement issues. I discovered a technique that combats sewing incosistancies like rolled bodies, non centered pocket on hoodies, uncentered collar openings ,tags etc. Ive seen it all!! Stack your shirts as flat as possible!! When you grab the sides of the shirt quickly hold the shirt up in front of you and make sure the body of the shirt is as flat as possible. Roll your hands to the right or left to adjust. Even if the shirt has side seams that are now off center to your hand placement!! (body is rolled) This is how the shirt will hang when worn!! Next load shirt on pallet making sure hand placement is evenly on both sides of pallet. Load shirt as far as you can on the pallet. Mark a "tick" mark in the center of the pallet on top. As you pull the shirt back for proper height adjustment visually center the hang tag and low part of the collar (arch) to the tick mark. Use both!!,the collar will elliminate non centered tags. Dont worry about making sure arm seams are evenly spaced on sides of the pallet. The center of the collar opening is the center of the shirt!!! Also bigger pallets for bigger shirts also help loaders with less experiance/dexterity. This technique is worth its weight in gold!! Good luck!! Live to print , Print to live!!! GST baby!!!


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## ffokazak (Feb 23, 2006)

Hey ASAP, did you notice the weave of eh AA shirts was totally skewed? 
I find em crooked. 
Take an AA mens 2001. 
Put it on a coat hanger. 
Notice the weave is diagonal. 
I just did 500 and i hated em. I made large sized plattens to fix the guessing!

Also the tags on AA can be WAY off sometimes!


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## Locklear (Nov 24, 2006)

My method for a while has consisted of putting a strip of masking tape on the shirt with a dot or line marking the center.

The emulsion I use is translucent enought to let me see how the design will sit in relation to the shirt. It's worked pretty well so far...


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

OK here i go..I bought this plastic grid sheet from Joann's fabric cost $3.00. I marked the collar at top and then did a center to cover my 15 x 15 press. When I have a transfer I mark the back of it for center and then place it under grid and line it up where i want it. Remove sheet and press. if you do not remove sheet plan on spending the rest of Day cleaning plastic off platen. Lou


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## cookster (May 10, 2006)

I have only been doing this for about 2 years and find that I lay the shirt on the platen 15 x 20 swinger and center it best I can not spending to much time on that as it will get checked later. I also try to make sure the shirt is square at the top, once this is done I double check my transfers as many are not printed on center (usually off to one side or the other). I lay the transfer on the front of the shirt eyeball it for being square then I will measure from the Left arm seam to the picture on the transfer and the same on the Right side. Once it is centered I will measure from the square edge of the lower platen to a perpindicular line on the transfers left and right side this will also give me a good idea of being square. Seems to work so far but I will say I have picked up some very good ideas from all the great people on this board.

One other idea you may want to use. When measuring down from the neck line for a full front I use my four fingers for my spacing or a block of wood cut to the correct size as this saves the time of using a ruler or tape measure and I label the block with a number 3", 4" and so on.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

badalou said:


> OK here i go..I bought this plastic grid sheet from Joann's fabric cost $3.00. I marked the collar at top and then did a center to cover my 15 x 15 press. When I have a transfer I mark the back of it for center and then place it under grid and line it up where i want it. Remove sheet and press. if you do not remove sheet plan on spending the rest of Day cleaning plastic off platen. Lou


Lou do you find many transfers arent centered on the paper or horizontally accurate with the bottom of the transfer sheet? I have seen that often with certain stock transfers we use. 

I basically use the press a center line on the shirt idea.

Nice homade tool by the way. Looks as good as the expensive pro model.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

I just got to the point of marking the backs of my transfers and then lining them up with a mark on my press. When I place my grid sheet over the shirt for double checking it I can get it accurate. My marks run Horizontally and vertical. I have had clients call me back in the past about a shirt not being centered. Dave I am not really sure of the question? And thanks. Since I did those photos I cut holes in my sheet to move the transfer.. just like the expensive one. My wife thinks I should sell them.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

badalou said:


> I just got to the point of marking the backs of my transfers and then lining them up with a mark on my press. When I place my grid sheet over the shirt for double checking it I can get it accurate. My marks run Horizontally and vertical. I have had clients call me back in the past about a shirt not being centered. Dave I am not really sure of the question? And thanks. Since I did those photos I cut holes in my sheet to move the transfer.. just like the expensive one. My wife thinks I should sell them.


I was going to suggest some positioning holes but you figured that one out. Some of my stock transfers arent exactly centered on the carrier paper. The transfer paper is square but the image isnt perfectly centered on the paper. Maybe a half inch to the right or left etc. They are also sometimes not even horizontally even with the bottom of the transfer paper....kind of turned or skewed. That throws me off a bit...its rare but I have a couple that are skewed every time.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

> They are also sometimes not even horizontally even with the bottom of the transfer paper....kind of turned or skewed. That throws me off a bit...its rare but I have a couple that are skewed every time.


You are so right on this David. I got a bunch fro different places. The companies just print them in large bunches and someone cuts them to be shipped. They are not concerned with making them square. You need to find the width and length of the design itself and make your mark. The good thing is you can see through most designs and finding that center gets easier. I don't even worry about the paper it's on as a factor just the design. Lou


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

http://www.calibratedsps.com/screen...rials/why-the-centerline-of-a-t-shirt-is.html

Go to this tutorial. You'll learn a LOT about "centerlines" (which in actuallity are NOT necessarily the center of the T-shirt)


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Yep...been there and done that...read all the posts above.


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## Ujudgnme2 (Mar 28, 2006)

I am with Scott Roon.

Also, what happened with people using a "ruler" at least for the first tshirt.

Taking my screenprinting class definitely helped me. I might need to consider going forward.


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## KoalaTees (Jul 25, 2007)

Good question Brent. Like the site too. Good responses on this also. I also have the centerline marked on the platen. If you do not have a crease, you have to use the tag and eyeball an the shirts CL. Lift the sleeves too as stated above. 
A tool for this like the heat transfer would make someone a few bucks. You can buy cheap lasers now at home depot. Maybe I need to mount one to the press and one on a tripod to get true CL's ???


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## Squirts (Feb 17, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> What ASAP said is true. I'm my own worst critic and see shirts I printed that only I can tell it's not perfectly centered.
> 
> One of the big problems I have along those same lines is getting the artwork level on both heart logos and large front or back designs. Sometimes all the measuring and squaring with the tee square doesn't do any good because the design is not exactly square or level. In that case you have to just EYEBALL it until it LOOKS correct.


Theres plenty replies for the shirts that have none , however often there is one but its just to faint to see under an overheadlight.... we approached this problem by modifying a sewing machine pedal to work backwards and break a circuit when its stepped on.... we ran the overhead light thru this and by stepping on a pedal we can kill the overhead light for as long as needed to center the shirt.... we then hung a light with a reflector shield like the cheap clip on ones.... mounted it off to the side out of the way of the press and put a low wattage refridgerator bulb in it... aimed it at the platen.... we leave it on the entire time we're printing... when we kill the overhead light the low wattage sidelight causes the almost invisable centerline to appear by causeing the almost nonexsistant centerline to cast a fine shadow that is just enough to center the shirt with...
Hope this all makes sense to you... By using the pedal our hands never leave the shirt and the whole thing happens as fast as it does on a shirt with a well defined center line.... Chuck


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## Ken Styles (Mar 16, 2006)

Wow Chuck,
Can you post a picture of that set up? If you want you can email them to me and I'll host them and post them here.

Ken


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## Squirts (Feb 17, 2006)

Ken Styles said:


> Wow Chuck,
> Can you post a picture of that set up? If you want you can email them to me and I'll host them and post them here.
> 
> Ken


 Just got back from out of town...I'll see what I can do for you.... Its really not that complicated justa low wattage light shineing ACROSS the platen from the side.... Mines about 4 feet away and six feet from the floor.... and a way to kill the overheadlight.... Like I said I modified an old sewing machine pedal... Well more then one we have the same setup on other workstations as well... but did that so we dont have to stop let go of the shirt then turn the light back on...LOL Ill see about getting a pic of it though.... Chuck


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## SportsZoneSS (Aug 30, 2007)

Hello,

I have not started doing my heat transfers yet because I am still reading the forums trying to learn how to do this. It seems you are all talking about putting the shirt on the press (the whole shirt) rather than sliding it on the press (just one side at a time on the press). Are there issues with bleeding through when you do this?


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## Krista (Feb 7, 2008)

I just printed my first job this past week-end. I also had problems getting the shirts centered so the design was perfect. You all say that it will get easier with practice....here is a question that I have... It must me impossible for every shirt to come out the same during a run. Have any of your customers complained about this? How do you determine if the shirt should be tossed away or if it's ok to sell to the customer?

Krista


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## ASAP Printing (Oct 6, 2006)

Give me a call i'll tell you. 352-505-7574


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Krista said:


> I just printed my first job this past week-end. I also had problems getting the shirts centered so the design was perfect. You all say that it will get easier with practice....here is a question that I have... It must me impossible for every shirt to come out the same during a run. Have any of your customers complained about this? How do you determine if the shirt should be tossed away or if it's ok to sell to the customer?
> 
> Krista


Did I.. Yes... and it was costing me money... So I invented the TEE SQUARE IT!


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## brent (Nov 3, 2006)

Lou, I don't see how that can be used for screen printing.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

brent said:


> Lou, I don't see how that can be used for screen printing.


That question will have to be answered by someone who uses it.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

It would be too slow for screenprinting.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Check out Screen Printing, Embroidery, Heat Transfer Laser Alignment System – Laser Targeting Systems. The owner was a former screen printer. You can target left-center, full chest and non-traditional locations.


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## rubyred (Aug 22, 2007)

I'm marking this to study later. I just received a return and need to do a new shirt because I didn't have the design centered. Thanks!


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## toiletries3000 (Mar 25, 2010)

*How about Table printing*

How about table printing where the palette registers to the screen? Not so easy.


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