# Trying to get smooth photo emulsion / problems with Speedball Diazo



## camscam (Apr 1, 2007)

Hey I know this is a tottal noob question but hey I'm a tottal noob OK!!
I have been trying like hell to get a smooth coat of diazo on my screen but after it drys every time there are a bunch of thick like drip marks built up all over the screan so its not a very smooth surfice. I belive when I mixed the sensitizer I possably used too much water trying to get all the brown turds out of the bottle to mix so that when it is set to dry it is dripping off the screen. Is there a way arround this?? I got a really smooth and good coat on this last time and it didnt seem that drippy or watery. I used a paint brush to spread on the emulsion but it just doesnt want to stay smooth, it steaks up or globs up and when its drying when gravity just pulls it down and forms thick droplets that tottaly wont work. If a little bit more water makes my $20 emulsion kit worthless thats prety [bad], so if anyone has a tip or a trick or thinks I'm missing somthing please impart your vast wisdom to this wreched soul.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

You might be applying too much emulsion. Normally (i.e. when using a scoop coater) you'd scrape off any excess so it doesn't drip. The screen can look smooth and fine when you coat it, but be covered in drips when you come back an hour later. You need to get a feel for what an even coat looks like so you know when you've applied too much emulsion.


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## RichyRich (Mar 23, 2007)

I have the exact same problem....cause then parts of the screen are harder to wash out etc.


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## aust1025 (Mar 1, 2007)

Here is a pretty good site it'll give a better idea on technique.


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## ironhead (Dec 28, 2005)

I bet you would have a lot better result with a scoop coater. The emulsion will be more even. 

I've used the emulsion that your talking about for the first job I ever did and it was a little sloppy to work with but after a few passes with a scoop coater it worked ok.

I now use Ulano qtx pre-sensitized and I'll never go back. It was only $29 for a quart and works like a charm.


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## camscam (Apr 1, 2007)

I tried using a fan to dry the screen faster so the drips couldn't form and that seemed to work for now. I will be getting a scoop coater since you guys think it makes this part alot easyer.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

camscam said:


> I belive when I mixed the sensitizer I possably used too much water trying to get all the brown turds out of the bottle to mix so that when it is set to dry it is dripping off the screen.











Too much water and the emulsion will drip.










Next time, measure the water as instructed (or use less, you can always add more), and mix them in a pickle or mayonaise jar so you can see how you are doing. Crush those lumps before you add water with a popsicle stick.

Any pre-sensitzed SBQ emulsion like the QTX mentioned will last on the shelf for at least 12 months, will coat like a dream and will be 4 to 10 times faster exposing. A gallon will last the same time and you get the savings of buying in bulk.

Spend the money on the conveinence of SBQ emulsion and don't 'spend' as much time making screens. Spend time printing. That's where the money is.


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

i'm currently researching the right photo sensitive product for my needs Ulano qtx pre-sensitized and the speedball, (this forum came up in my search,) for t-shirt printing and clay printing, so this need yellow safe light while preparing the screen and do i need any other tools and materials please point me in the right direction for more beginners info..


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

angdes said:


> do i need any other tools and materials please point me in the right direction for more beginners info..


What materials do you have so far for screen printing?


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

multiple screens ready to have silk attached, squeegie, and gel medium for inks

I screen printed in college on paper and made ceramic decals but that was 7yrs ago and all the products have changed


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

angdes said:


> multiple screens ready to have silk attached, squeegie, and gel medium for inks


Do you have an exposure unit? Transparencies? somewhere to wash out the screens? Emulsion? Ink? The list can keep going on and on


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

jayman2143 said:


> Do you have an exposure unit? Transparencies? somewhere to wash out the screens? Emulsion? Ink? The list can keep going on and on


ah no the last time i exposed in sun light, I have inks and transparencies, need to source emulsion any recommendation for online buying, do i need yellow safe light for applying photo emulsion?


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

angdes said:


> need to source emulsion any recommendation for online buying


I would try:

Art Supplies from Dick Blick Art Materials
Silk Screening Supplies .com, screen printing equipment, silk screen printing kits



> do i need yellow safe light for applying photo emulsion?


Or red. but Its recommended. I didnt have one on hand and i needed to coat my screen asap so i did it a room with a small lamp with a normal light bulb facing away from me. No problems. Just dont have a huge light on you when your doing it.


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## raw191 (Nov 16, 2008)

I like silkscreeningsupplies.com. They also have lots of informative videos.


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

raw191 said:


> I like silkscreeningsupplies.com. They also have lots of informative videos.


yep i had a long read there yesterday..its a good site not sure if they ship to australia yet, i'll keep looking

so does everyone used u/v lamps? has anybody tried using longer sun exposure with this photo emulsion product?


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

angdes said:


> so does everyone used u/v lamps? has anybody tried using longer sun exposure with this photo emulsion product?


UV lamps as in the exposure unit? If thats what you mean, I use a 500 watt halogen lamp. Works perfect. 

And with the sun exposure, this always puzzles me. If it takes about 12 minutes to burn a screen with the lamp I have, wouldnt it take forever to burn a screen using the sun? Seems weird.


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

the last film emulsion product i used took about 15mins in the sun max. but that is no longer available..
i'll go with the lamp then, something like this?

Portable Work Light, Floor - 500 Watt Halogen Lamp - Mfg# F-QH-1


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

Yes. I actually have a thread showing pictures of my DIY exposure unit with a 500 watt halogen lamp. 

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing-equipment/t71232.html

It could give you some ideas on how to make it. The final cost to make it was about $3 since i had to buy a box of screws since i didnt have any at the time.


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

cool thanks, looks good and an easy setup..


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

Yeah its really simple. Took about an hour to put it all together. If you have questions feel free to ask!


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## angdes (Jan 11, 2009)

_I now use Ulano qtx pre-sensitized and I'll never go back_

is this product for water based inks or turps based?


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## jayman2143 (Nov 22, 2008)

angdes said:


> is this product for water based inks or turps based?


Ulano QTX Pre-Sensitized works with both plastisol inks and water-based inks.


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## mrsjbarber (Jan 11, 2010)

RichardGreaves said:


> Too much water and the emulsion will drip.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
wondering if this is the product you are referring to Ulano ULQX1 QX-1® (SBQ - Pre-Sensitized Emulsion) - ScreenPrintingSupplies.com
I have just started with my Yudu and have seen how expensive its gonna be ..making me wish I had not bought it.......hoping this product is premixed and ready to spread....


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

mrsjbarber said:


> wondering if this is the product you are referring to Ulano ULQX1 QX-1® (SBQ - Pre-Sensitized Emulsion) - ScreenPrintingSupplies.com
> 
> I have just started with my Yudu and have seen how expensive its gonna be ..making me wish I had not bought it.......
> 
> hoping this product is premixed and ready to spread....


Pre-sensitized emulsions are very fast exposing, don't need the any mixing and have an 18 month pot life.

Alas they are not very water resistant without diazo sensitizer, but you will be able to print plenty of products before it breaks down.

QX-1 requires about twice as much exposure as QLT to cure the stencil.
Pre-Sensitized Emulsions for Screen Making Products


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

jayman2143 said:


> Ulano QTX Pre-Sensitized works with both plastisol inks and water-based inks.


QTX is not designed for water-based inks unless you add diazo sensitizer which doubles the exposure required to cure. 

This is like driving a Porsche in first gear. Whats the point?
Pre-Sensitized Emulsions for Screen Making Products

It will survive for short runs I assume you plan with a Yudu.

For information on exposing with a 500 watt quartz halogen lamp, search this forum for "halogen".

"angdes" linked to a US$85 work light. Shop around, you shouldn't have to spend more than US$25.

Remember to remover the UV filter safety glass.


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## mrsjbarber (Jan 11, 2010)

mrsjbarber said:


> wondering if this is the product you are referring to Ulano ULQX1 QX-1® (SBQ - Pre-Sensitized Emulsion) - ScreenPrintingSupplies.com
> I have just started with my Yudu and have seen how expensive its gonna be ..making me wish I had not bought it.......hoping this product is premixed and ready to spread....


so I want to buy a SBQ emulsion is basically what you are saying...that it exposes faster........sorry I am really new and need to find the ins and outs.....Jodi


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

For most screen makers, faster is an advantage - especially with a low energy exposure source like the Yudu. Pre-sensitized SBQ emulsions are usually very fast exposing. There is no mixing if the emulsion is pre-sensitized and they have an 18 month pot life unlike diazo that begins to age and expose differently as it gets older.

Diazo sensitized emulsions have the best resistance, either for water or solvent resistance. Is ink & washup resistance your main concern?

Alas SBQ sensitized emulsions are not very water resistant without adding additional diazo You will be able to print plenty of products before your stencil breaks down.

http://www.ulano.com/emulsn/presensitized.htm


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## lyricalgenius (Jan 29, 2010)

Hello I have a yudu and I cant seem to get my emulsion to come out right.It always ripples or cracks and DOES NOT tick like its supposed to and the lil plastic part that you take off of the emulsion I cant seem to get it off without pulling or tearing the emulsion off. Can any1 tell me what im doing wrong ? thanks


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

angdes said:


> i'm currently researching the right photo sensitive product for my needs Ulano qtx pre-sensitized and the speedball, (this forum came up in my search,) for t-shirt printing and clay printing, so this need yellow safe light while preparing the screen and do i need any other tools and materials please point me in the right direction for more beginners info..


Australia has plenty of screen printing distributors & printers. Solmu (Lewis of post#2) is from the hot-bed of Australian screen printing Melbourne. But so is Perth. Posting where you live targets more specific recommendations. 

*Is it safe?*
All emulsions (especially the fast exposing SBQ) should be *coated and stored *in yellow safe light. 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t25983.html#post153633

Red safe lights are designed for photographic camera film, which is very sensitive to white visible light used to capture family snapshots.

OK, red light will also be safe, but it's very hard to see things in red light. A red bulb filters out most of the *visible spectrum*, (so that will eliminate the blue/violet/invisible UV-A end), but you can't see much when so much of the visible spectrum isn't emitted. 

For screen making, use yellow lights, which have much more visible light, but little or no UV light that can react with your stencil.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t82942.html#post489879


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## rectangle (Feb 2, 2011)

with the drips, will it still expose? or is the screen screwed?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Yes, but beware, thicker areas (drips), need more exposure than flat areas just like cooking anything.


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## TenThirty (Dec 31, 2010)

I've been using Diazo and not had any problems, so long as you get a good even coat on your screen. Use the sharp side(as opposed to the rounded side) of your scoop coater. I've been coating with one coat on the print side, then two on the inside. 

for a new 500 watt worklight at HD, it's like $14.99, but I got a set of 2 500 watt lights for $5 more, which boosted me up to 1000 watts, and gives off more heat, so I can use my lamps to cure my shirts as well. 

I mounted the two lamps side by side, and it exposes my Daizo in 5 minutes. As for curing, the lamps will cure an image with light ink coverage in about the time it takes to change shirts on my platen, and when more ink is used on the shirt, I give it a minute or so longer.


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