# anyone heatpress patches onto winter hats?



## miktoxic (Feb 21, 2008)

just ordered patches with heat seal backing on them. was going to sew after pressing for a permanent hold. has anyone done this on 100% acrylic beanies? also what about the stretching around the patch after applying? any help would be appreciated. thank you!


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## anthco (Aug 28, 2011)

any luck with the adhesive backed patches on the acrylic beanies? I have about bunch of hats to press and before I ruin anymore I'd like to know if anyone has had any success and HOW? 

since the majority of the patches are the same, does anyone think a heat proof cutout over top the beanie, allowing only the heat to penetrate thee patch ..could actually work?

what material could i use as a 'stencil' to keep the heat off of the acrylic hat and only on to the patch?


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## propsuper (Mar 23, 2008)

We have never tired a patch on a beanie, but have , with success, heatpressed rhinestones.


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## anthco (Aug 28, 2011)

propsuper said:


> We have never tired a patch on a beanie, but have , with success, heatpressed rhinestones.


That's great to hear. Do you have any tips? I was going to attemp rhinestones as well..after I figure out how to get rid of the 500 or so patches i have . Did you use heat resistant tape to hold them in place? also, did you protect the acrylic from the heat ? and finally what heat setting did you use and for how long ?

Any help would be great !


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## propsuper (Mar 23, 2008)

We used 325 degree for bout 20 sec. I was concerned bout using heat tape on the beanie, so just got a bit of a warm finger holding the mylar in place till the heat platten came down on it. Made a real nice beanie tho, have sold quite a few. Good luck and cool fingers.


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## anthco (Aug 28, 2011)

Hi Frank, 

Thanks for the tips. Are those setting being used on 100% Acrylic beanies? 

Also, is "mylar" a backing which holds your rhinestone design together until you press it? (I'm relly new to heat pressing )


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## propsuper (Mar 23, 2008)

Yep, that temp is pretty much a "standard temp" for us, for beanies, or t shirts, we have never had a problem. The mylar is the transfer tape, to move the rhinestones from the templet to the beanie or shirt or whatever you are making. Just move the design, place it on the item, secure alignment with heat tape if needed,( I would not recomend using tape on beanies) press, let it cool a bit, and remove mylar. Good luck Oh btw, dont expect the first one to be perfect, there is a learning curve. Presses are all different, if you have a problem, try different temps and pressures. What we use for temp and pressure might not be right for you. again good luck


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## miktoxic (Feb 21, 2008)

it must be different for patches. i forget the settings but there was a definite affect the heat had on the acrylic beanies:










note how the ribs of the beanie flow straight down the hat except where the patch was adhered by the heat press. i thought placing a piece of cardboard to stretch the hat, placing the patch and THEN pressing it would work, but it ended up doing the opposite as shown.


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## uncletee (Feb 25, 2007)

very litttle strech needed, if you have a hat press works much better. then it has to be cool to sell! good luck uncletee.


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## propsuper (Mar 23, 2008)

I don't really think the lines not being straight are from the heat, rather from stretching the beanie. With the beanie stretched and patch applied, the beanie holds the "stretch effect" under the patch and the rest returns to its original. The same thing happens when you embroider on a beanie, if you stretch it and sew on it, the beanie under the embroidery holds the stretch effects and the rest returns to original shape. jmo 
Best of luck


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