# yudu and non yudu emulsion



## julietg (Mar 15, 2011)

Hi, I'm new here. 
I have a Yudu and had great results initially. We got liquid emulsion and then the red sheets to try to save some money and I'm having all kinds of issues now. 
Either the emulsion sheets peel (got past the bubbling issues) or the detail is horrible after burning. 
I've recently read about degreasing. Is this different than using the emulsion remover?
Is that why my red sheets are coming right off after drying all night?
I'm getting so frustrated! If my first few projects hadn't turned out so great I'd be trying to sell the machine right now.
Thanks in advance


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Yes, degreasing is different than removing emulsion. Try it and see if it makes a difference. It should be applied after removing old emulsion, just before you are ready to apply new emulsion again.

Not sure where you are located, but if you tell us perhaps someone may know of someplace local to buy. I have heard of home remedies too, so if anyone knows of one, please chime in.


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## Pvasquez (Feb 19, 2011)

The red sheets that your referring to is whats known as capillary film. Capillary film is available in different thickness depending on the application as it may be possible that you are leaving residue of emulsion remover it's unlikely this would be the main problem. Let's start by making the change and start degreasing but you changed a major variable as well a different emulsion. Now your back to square one don't let this scare you or frustrate you it's s good change and much easier to apply so let's get past the problem and move forward. Screen prep there is a new product you want to add to your arsenal for good adhesion a wetting agent most chemical manufactures will have some type of degreaser/mesh prep this will give you a more even wall of water on the actual screen so when you apply the capillary film it will go on the mesh evenly ( no fish eyes or week spots ) after applying on print side take a manual squeegee and on the ink side squeegee off the excess water drawing the emulsion into the mesh. After the screen dries remove the protective film. Now your ready to get your exposure. This film is probably 3 to 4 times thicker than your application of wet emulsion so just by that you will increase your exposure time by 3 to 4 times and adjust as needed or do a proper exposure to get the time. Good luck but remember after you get past this it will be easier and much less of a mess in prep time hope this helps.


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

julietg said:


> If my first few projects hadn't turned out so great I'd be trying to sell the machine right now.
> Thanks in advance


 Don't sell just yet. You just don't have the right emulsion for your exposure . I use Speedball Diazo Emulsion with my YUDU. It works great w/ YUDU. Just apply w/ a scoopcoater. I used a drywall mud pan until I got one. I use vellum and Epson printer. I expose for the full 10 minutes. Sometimes I do three more minutes if I have some fine lines. Emulsion, film, and exposure are very important to the screen printing process. Not every combination works well. Believe me. I found Casey's Translucency works very well for vellum. I have upgraded to a four color press and I still use my YUDU for an exposure unit. I can expose 13 x 16 images on my large screens with it. So you can use it when you upgrade. I can even do halftones using fixxon clear films. Look up my posts and see. So, don't through in the towel on your investment. You just need the right stuff to make it work for you. I would use plastisol or permaset waterbased ink. The YUDU brand inks aren't that great. As far as degreaser is concerned, Speedball has one but, I found this stuff called "Awesome" at a dollar store it works wonders for a $1. Speedball emulsion dries in less than 20 minutes. It costs about $20 w/ a Micheal's coupon. You can do about about 20 or so screens with it. So, keep your YUDU you won't be sorry.


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## Loydstuts (May 1, 2011)

I am just getting started w/a YuDu. I have had less than great results using stock components. The capillary sheets basically suck, the ink is too thin, and the squgee is useless. Other than that everything is wonderful! Any help/advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

Loydstuts said:


> I have had less than great results using stock components. The capillary sheets basically suck, the ink is too thin, and the squgee is useless. Other than that everything is wonderful! Any help/advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.


Use Speedball Diazo Emulsion instead of the capillary film. Just look at my above post. I have some really great tips. The squeegee is very basic i know. Yudu offers a better one also, does Speedball. The angle and pressure is most important though. Their ink is not so hot. If you go to a pure art store and not a craft store you can find Permaset Aqua waterbased ink. I am posting a my first yudu print. I did a two color print. I was pretty proud. I can answer any questions you may have about Yudu.


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

This is my first YuDu print. The prints aren't consistant due to squeegee pressure. It's something had to work on. I was still proud.


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## Loydstuts (May 1, 2011)

Great design. Thanks for the reply, and I WILL get with you...Thanks again!


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Does anyone know what the YUDU screens are made out of ?
Are they polyester ? I emailed Procraft and the guy wasn't sure but thought they were silk screen.

Thanks
Mark


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

I can't verify it but I believe the YuDu screens are polyester. Ryonet makes an aftermarket screen that is better than the YuDu screen.


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## Loydstuts (May 1, 2011)

Does the Ryonet screen match up with the registration pins?


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

Yes, the screens that Ryonet offers matches the registration holes and offer higher screen tension and more mesh sizes.


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## jonkeefe (Mar 11, 2011)

The Ryonet screens are much higher tension, too -- overall, a much better quality product. We only use the Yudu screens when doing dark colours on light shirts; opaque inks are almost impossible to use with the low-tension Yudu screens.

We only had one faulty Ryonet Yudu screen, where there was a buildup of glue on one corner, preventing the screen from sitting properly in the machine; I sent off an email and a guy from Ryonet called me that night. Emailed them a picture of the problem, and they sent a free replacement in the mail a day or two later.

The difference between the Yudu brand screens and the Ryonet screens is like night and day -- almost as drastic as the difference between a professional squeegee and the blue plastic ruler that comes with the Yudu.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

are the ryonet screens polyester also ? I need to know so I don't melt them when using the rhino stencils.

Thanks


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

Yes, they are 100% polyester at Ryonet. Check it out. Why the Rhino stencils? You will need a heatpress that fits perfectly in the center of the frames. Do have a hobby size heatpress already?


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

have a couple of commercial heat presses
With the rhino don't need chemicals and emulsions and work out of the house and have a 2 yr old foster child so its much safer and better.

THanks


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## KenisonVenison (May 16, 2011)

i bought some pink colored emulsion from a store on ebay and i'm having a hard time burning and clearing the image as well. should i just expose for longer? i've tried 20-30 minutes and still nothing. should i expose for longer than that?


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## geniussuineg (Sep 21, 2010)

The YuDu exposure may not have enough UV rays to burn your image with that emulsion. I would suggest Speedball Diazo Emulsion. It has worked very well for me w/ the YuDu exposure. It takes about 10 minutes to expose. Also, what brand of printer do you use and what paper do yo use for your positives?


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## griffonier (May 6, 2011)

Hi guys, I too have a YuDu. And had an aweful experience with the stock YuDu film. I used Ryonets WBP Hybrid emulsion as a complete newbie. First time out even with a minor mistake on my part the stuff worked great. It took a little while to dry, but with a simple design it burned in 8mins and looked fine.


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