# Trouble getting white pigment to mix in



## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

Hello, I use the R2O system from ryonet for mixing discharge and water based colors and I have huge problems with the white pigment. It is clumpy and does not mix all the way in. I mix the ink sometimes for over a half hour and I still have pieces of solids in the ink when I go to print. Naturally, this leaves white dots or streaks in my prints and they are less than perfect. Does anyone else have this problem when mixing white pigment heavy PMS colors? How do I work around it? Is this just a ryonet pigment issue? Should I switch brands or manufacturers? 

Thanks!


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## mushroomtoxic (Sep 5, 2013)

Sounds like that ink is bad. You have to make sure after use that they are sealed airtight!! Also to if you plan on printing with alot of WB in the future, and mixing your own pantone colors, I would recommend switching to Rutland WB Kit. In my opinion, Ryonet sells a lower grade/quality ink systems.


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

Thanks! After I posted this I spoke to the head of engineering in their ink manufacturing facility and he said it sounded like the pigment froze at one point. That would make sense as I ordered it in the dead of winter and it did sit with UPS over a weekend. 

All I print is water based and discharge. I will have to check out Rutland. I have heard good things about them in the past, just so used to using this system I have that I havent changed. Do you have anything off the top of your head that you can tell me about Rutlands system that makes it better than Ryonets? Ive only been printing for about a year and a half and never bothered with plastisol because I saw WB and Discharge as the "inks of the future"


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## mushroomtoxic (Sep 5, 2013)

The first thing that comes to mind, would be reliability in hitting my pantone matches. Easy to mix formulas that are constantly updated in there system online. Next would be wash life. I have managed and produced millions of shirts over the last 15 years, for major label brands and licensed products, and all we use it Rutland inks. The quality speaks for itself. As far as the inks of the future. I would say HSA " High Solids Acrylic" inks will replace WB. 

Screen Printing, Automotive & Industrial Products | Rutland Inc.

my 2 cents


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

mushroomtoxic said:


> The first thing that comes to mind, would be reliability in hitting my pantone matches. Easy to mix formulas that are constantly updated in there system online. Next would be wash life. I have managed and produced millions of shirts over the last 15 years, for major label brands and licensed products, and all we use it Rutland inks. The quality speaks for itself. As far as the inks of the future. I would say HSA " High Solids Acrylic" inks will replace WB.
> 
> Screen Printing, Automotive & Industrial Products | Rutland Inc.
> 
> my 2 cents


Thanks for the info. I have found that certain colors that I mix tend to fade when washed. Not all of them, just some. Royal blue, bright red and bright greens come to mind. Now if I run these through the dryer twice they have a better fade resistance but who has time to do that on large runs? I may have to check out rutland once I start getting low on my pigments.


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## mushroomtoxic (Sep 5, 2013)

Its best to have a gas dryer when curing WB inks 320F around 2min threw the tunnel. I use 6% agent, with 5% penetrant and lubricant in my mix. Helps keeps the ink wet in the screen and help with the saturation.


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

mushroomtoxic said:


> Its best to have a gas dryer when curing WB inks 320F around 2min threw the tunnel. I use 6% agent, with 5% penetrant and lubricant in my mix. Helps keeps the ink wet in the screen and help with the saturation.


Unfortunately for me I cant have a gas dryer in my current location so I have to do the best I can with my infared. Ive never heard of these penetrant and lubricant additives, whats that about? 

Also, I never understood the 4-6% activator. Is there a reason to use a different percentage? I typically use 5% but on white pigment heavy colors I use only 4% because I have found that 5 or 6% makes the inks lumpy and milky, for lack of better words.


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## mushroomtoxic (Sep 5, 2013)

elusiveprint said:


> Unfortunately for me I cant have a gas dryer in my current location so I have to do the best I can with my infared. Ive never heard of these penetrant and lubricant additives, whats that about?
> 
> Also, I never understood the 4-6% activator. Is there a reason to use a different percentage? I typically use 5% but on white pigment heavy colors I use only 4% because I have found that 5 or 6% makes the inks lumpy and milky, for lack of better words.


Rutlands lubricant, helps the ink stay wet in the screen, and there penetrant helps with saturation with the ink into the garment without having to smash to clear the screen and print the shirt. as for the activator helps with discharge of the ink/colors to there brightness. I use 4-6% depending on lights to darks. no more then 8% depending on brand of darks. as for lumpy or milky ink. I haven't experienced that. Make sure to use a drill with a mixing attachment to mix properly...


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