# I got my new Maxx!!!



## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Hi! I got my new Maxx last week, had a class on Thurs, and I'm up and running. I cut my first template yesterday and it turned out great! I;m soooooo excited! I just want to bling everything!
I want to just play all weekend....but....we have a hockey tournament. (love the tournaments, but it's killing me to have my new toy and no time!!) Anyway, that's all for now!


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## proworlded (Oct 3, 2006)

Good luck with your new heat press. That is an excellent choice.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Misty...you got the Maxx vinyl cutter didn't you? what software...ACS? keep us posted on your progress


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

Yes... Misty bought a 15" ACS Maxx and I was very happy that she had such great success with her first project. PLUS, she had some really tight constraints and was operating outside what I typically recommend. The distance between her circles was a maximum of 0.2 mm and I was very concerned about how well the rubber would cut with the circles so close. But the report back was that the pattern cut just fine. So this was really great news!


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Misty...glad you are getting your feet wet..There are many on here to assist...even if we don't share the same software etc


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks Charles! I made another template real quick to make some headbands for the Hockey sisters. It was easy, cut great . The stones brushed in perfectly. I cut my holes 3.5 mil and with.3 spacing. I like the stones close together and so far have had great results. 
As I've said in other posts, I have no design background and am just playing with fonts. I really want to learn how to trace etc, so I can make objects as well.
Any tips anyone wants to give will be greatly appreciated.


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

great going Misty....Making designs is just that...playing around with various pieces of vector art..merging some deleting parts until you get something you like...cut it...wear it and see how it goes.. I have had pretty good luck with giving my granddaughters tees to wear...dressy type tees


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

Mistyann said:


> I really want to learn how to trace etc, so I can make objects as well.
> Any tips anyone wants to give will be greatly appreciated.


The key to learning how to auto-trace in ACS Studio is understand both the step-by-step process, as well as understanding how each of the 5 settings will affect the result you receive. 

I recommend three things... (1) Watch the video on auto-tracing because it covers these 5 settings and I have also provided the same images I use in the video so you can reproduce the results I show. (2) Start with basic, solid colored images and work your way up. As with most things, the more you practice, the better you get and starting with easy images will help to build your skills and confidence. (3) Also learn the manual tracing process because in some cases it can be faster because of how easy it to drag and form quick curves to fit the images.


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Misty, Glad to hear all is going well with your new toy,, 
You will never stop learing once you start this, and you will always be dreaming of Bling,,, 
Woohooo
MMM


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

SandyMcC said:


> Yes... Misty bought a 15" ACS Maxx and I was very happy that she had such great success with her first project. PLUS, she had some really tight constraints and was operating outside what I typically recommend. The distance between her circles was a maximum of 0.2 mm and I was very concerned about how well the rubber would cut with the circles so close. But the report back was that the pattern cut just fine. So this was really great news!


 What material is that? Is it the black PVC material?


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Yes, I'm using the black template material. I plan on trying thr hartco this week. I'm looking for a supplier for the transfer tape (100 foot rolls) Anyone have any ideas?


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

JSI, signwarehouse?


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Mistyann said:


> Yes, I'm using the black template material. I plan on trying thr hartco this week. I'm looking for a supplier for the transfer tape (100 foot rolls) Anyone have any ideas?


 
I purchased mine here 
*Hot Fix Tape Roll *
Hot Fix Tape Roll - 100m

9.5" x 330 feet for 62.50  (about .24 per SQ FT)


slickartonline.com also has it for a good price, in wider rolls...

12" x 330 feet for 95.00 (about .29 per SQ FT)
and
18" x 330 feet forr 150.00 (about .30 per SQ FT)


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks! I just ordered from threadart. You are a weath of information! Where's the best place to buy the hartco? Do you cut it exactly the same as the black rubber backing? I'm going to use the sample you sent me today.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Mistyann said:


> Thanks! I just ordered from threadart. You are a weath of information!


 
Thanks!
...just remember to "pay it forward" in other threads so as to help all others in this wonderful community!
(which you are already doing now I see!  Thanks for all of the info/settings you have shared thus far!)

....and as far as it goes with me, "NO trade secrets here"!!!! 
IF I know it, I WILL share it!!!
PERIOD!!!!! 
That's what this forum is all about....sharing.




Mistyann said:


> Where's the best place to buy the hartco?


Well, I don't know where the _best _place is, because I couldn't find that many sellers of the stuff(maybe some sellers rename it???)...but I purchased mine here Sign Supplies and Equipment: SandBlast 425S & 425SP - Low Price Guarantee
Shipping was very fast. 
They have it in 15", 20", 25", & 30" wide rolls.

I purchased the 15" wide roll because my KNK GROOVE-E cutter only accepts 17" wide media.
(_my cutting width is 13"_)

...but you will be able to purchase the 25" wide roll, I think? 
Look in your manual, or ask SandyM.


Terry, mentioned a seller in an above post... JSI.
They might be closer to you?
http://www.jsisign.com/products/hartcomaterial.html

They have it in the 15", 20", 25" & 30" wide rolls also.

Whichever one you choose make sure that it is "NON-perforated". (non-punched)





Mistyann said:


> Do you cut it exactly the same as the black rubber backing? I'm going to use the sample you sent me today.


 
Scott has the settings for the Hartco 425s here
Hartco Sandmask Stencil

He is cutting on a "Copam CP-2500 24” Cutter" so the settings for us will be slightly different...but maybe a good starting point. 


The reason that I purchased the Hartco 425s was because of his wonderful review!  (thanks Scott!)

I will be cutting today.
(I couldn't do it last night because I had to take my mom to the airport early this morning)(eeeek...I am NOT a morning person at all!!!!) lol


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

ashamutt said:


> I purchased the 15" wide roll because my KNK GROOVE-E cutter only accepts 17" wide media.
> (_my cutting width is 13"_)
> 
> ...but you will be able to purchase the 25" wide roll, I think?
> Look in your manual, or ask SandyM.


Misty purchased the 15" ACS Maxx and has a 19" wide opening for materials. So, she'll probably want to stick with the 15" wide roll, as well.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

SandyMcC said:


> Misty purchased the 15" ACS Maxx and has a 19" wide opening for materials. So, she'll probably want to stick with the 15" wide roll, as well.


oops! that's right! 
Sorry misty!

Thanks sandyM!!!


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

Sorry but I can't get to my cutter to check settings. We are moving to Fl in a week and my cutter was among the first things I packed.


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## BML Builder (Jul 8, 2008)

I got my Hartco 425S from SignWarehouse and I will check my settings when I get home. I'm at work right now, but it is snowing so everyone else is leaving so I may get home early tonight. I will check my settings and let you know, since I have the Maxx 24" and it worked great for me.


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks so much you guys! You are all awesome!


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## BML Builder (Jul 8, 2008)

Sorry I didn't write back yesterday, but the snowstorm knocked out our internet. I looked up the settings and I use 95 downforce and 250 speed. I put the overcut on 20 and the trailing blade on 30. I usually cut it twice just to be sure it is cutting all the way through, but occasionally I have forgotten and just cut it once and didn't really have any problems with it. I attach the sandblast material to the mat before I cut it, then I roll it down on the mat after it is cut to make sure it sticks to the mat well, and then when I pull it up it usually weeds itself. Occasionally I have a few strays that do not attach to the mat, but most of the time it is self weeding. Then all I have to do it stick the template to a backing and scrape the mat clean.


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks Marilyn! I think I'm using 200 down force right now. Is the Hartco a harder material, or is that just a number you've found works for you?


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

BML Builder said:


> Sorry I didn't write back yesterday, but the snowstorm knocked out our internet. I looked up the settings and I use 95 downforce and 250 speed. I put the overcut on 20 and the trailing blade on 30. I usually cut it twice just to be sure it is cutting all the way through, but occasionally I have forgotten and just cut it once and didn't really have any problems with it. I attach the sandblast material to the mat before I cut it, then I roll it down on the mat after it is cut to make sure it sticks to the mat well, and then when I pull it up it usually weeds itself. Occasionally I have a few strays that do not attach to the mat, but most of the time it is self weeding. Then all I have to do it stick the template to a backing and scrape the mat clean.


 
If you like your holes nice and close, be very careful using this method, you will rip your template as the rubber between the holes rips..
and you will have to redesign your spacing, and re cut. This is also True for Filled designs.
if your holes are not close, this works great,,
MMM


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

So what do you suggest?


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

If your cutter cuts well you can just lift the template material off the backer piece. and leave the holes behind,,my Eagle does this. 
If it does not cut well, you will need to weed a very close holed design but the holes should pop out really easy, you are just lifting them, out,
it takes a lil more time but you have a beautiful template... when done,
Misty it all will take some time and hands on, to get your technique , but you will get it, and make beautiful,, garments,, 

Oh yeah for weeding i always use dental pics to pop those lil stubborns out...
MMM


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

I've been cutting my holes really close and haven't really had a problem. I just peel very slowly. I've had a couple rip, but they seal back togther once I put them on the backing. I've made at least 10 or 15 templates...it's so fun! I swear I dream in dots!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

sjidohair said:


> If your cutter cuts well you can just lift the template material off the backer piece. and leave the holes behind,,my Eagle does this.
> If it does not cut well, you will need to weed a very close holed design but the holes should pop out really easy, you are just lifting them, out,
> it takes a lil more time but you have a beautiful template... when done,
> Misty it all will take some time and hands on, to get your technique , but you will get it, and make beautiful,, garments,,
> ...


MORE detailed info please!

*What are YOUR Eagle settings???*

(Misty , as you know has the ACS/KNK MAXX - almost a carbon copy of the "Falcon")
(...and I have the KNK GROOVE-E which is almost a carbon copy of that!!!)


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

HELLO.....
Anyone there?????

SandyJo, I am standing by my cutter waiting on your settings...... 
....and SO many people on here would be helped by them.

force?
speed?

anything else you can think of....


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## BML Builder (Jul 8, 2008)

Mistyann said:


> Thanks Marilyn! I think I'm using 200 down force right now. Is the Hartco a harder material, or is that just a number you've found works for you?


I don't think the Hartco is a harder material, it is a soft rubber material. I have not used the black material that ACS sells, so I am not sure how much harder or softer it is. I had tried 90 downforce first and then switched to 95 and that seems to work better. 

I do cut my holes pretty close together on a lot of designs and have not had any real problems with them tearing. I do also use the 60 degree blade.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Here is some wonderful useful info/manual from wonderful Sandy McCauley! 
(sandyM correct me if I am wrong) 

It is titled:
*Using Your Klic-N-Kut for Rhinestone Applications*
http://www.scrapbookdiecutter.com/Using%20Your%20Klic-N-Kut%20for%20Rhinestone%20Applications.pdf

It LISTS ALL of the stone sizes and settings too!!!
(this is just ONE MORE reason why I purchased MY KNK GROOVE-E from SandyM!!!
The BEST tech support in the business!!!!)
(FREE TOO) 

Here is a snippet of the article/manual....

Settings:


_Set the origin on the KNK and set the speed to 250. On the older KNK’s, set the force to about 400. On the Groove and Groove-E, use a force setting of ~250 - 300. On the newer Groove-E and Maxx models, use a force setting of ~100. Perform a test cut to make sure the material is cut cleanly. Increase the pressure, if necessary. You may find that the stencil board cuts better in 2 passes. _


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

My only addition to what I wrote above is that I recommend cutting the black rubber in two passes and, of course, I HIGHLY recommend peeling off the backing sheet before cutting and rolling that rubber directly onto the mat. I continue to have either 100% weeding or, at most, 2 or 3 cut circles stuck to the pattern. 

Also, Accugraphic recommends using an Overcut of 50, which I have also adopted. 

Sandy


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Well I guess i got back home, to late to answer that question,,, !
Glad you found it, sorry If I had you waiting , 
I would also like to say,, that Each Brand of machine has Guidelines for you to start on, and it is always best to check with where you Purchased the machines, for guidelines, on where to start.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

sjidohair said:


> Well I guess i got back home, to late to answer that question,,, !
> Glad you found it, sorry If I had you waiting ,
> I would also like to say,, that Each Brand of machine has Guidelines for you to start on, and it is always best to check with where you Purchased the machines, for guidelines, on where to start.


 
...it's ok.
Yes, I found the answer.

But it is also ok to give your Eagle settings too. 
It gives people a starting point....and it is very helpful.

*So....what do you use for down force and speed?*

For the ACS black rubber AND the Hartco rubber?
(I have both)


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

I set my V -speedat 250 and my F-force at 140
for all the template materials, I cut.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

sjidohair said:


> I set my V -speedat 250 and my F-force at 140
> for all the template materials, I cut.


The ACS Eagle & Falcon are so close to the ACS/KNK Maxx & Groove-E that your settings will help out a lot! 
Thanks!!!

(I am drawing with my pen tool now)


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

YOur very welcome,, 
what do you guys have yours set at?


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

sjidohair said:


> YOur very welcome,,
> what do you guys have yours set at?


Right now I am drawing test circles ...
v=250
f=60

...but I am getting ready to load a small piece of Hartco 425s and do test cuts starting at f=120
(in between the recommended 100 and the 140 that you use)

I will let you all know how it goes! 

Hopefully, Misty made out ok.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

ok.... here are my settings on the KNK Groove-e thus far:

Hartco 425s rubber/vinyl material

V=250
F=125

Overcut set at 15
Trailing blade set at 20

Had a decent cut.
50% weeded.

I will "up" the overcut and that will probably take care of the weeding problem.


update soon...


*UPDATE*

By increasing the "overcut" to 50 I had 100% weeding on 20ss,16ss & 10ss! yea!

The 6ss holes weeded at 85%.


*FINAL SETTINGS FOR THE HARTCO 425s:*
V=250
F=125

Overcut set at 50
Trailing blade set at 20

I use a "2-pass" cut.
I also place 2 sheets of .22 chipboard underneath the blade-tip/holder so as to adjust to the right height.
_I will be using SandyM's O-ring method on the next run_.  (_thanks SandyM_) 




I will now go and test the ACS black rubber.

update soon.....


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

KNK Groove-E settings for ACS Black Rubber:

V=250
F=130

Overcut set at 50
Trailing blade set at 20

I use a "2-pass" cut.
I also place 2 sheets of .22 chipboard underneath the blade-tip/holder so as to adjust to the right height.
_I will be using SandyM's O-ring method on the next run_.  (_thanks SandyM_) 


I had 100% weeding on 20ss,16ss & 10ss.
The 6ss holes weeded at 30%.


*NOTE*: I DO NOT like this black rubber at all!!! 

It is hard to pull off of the mat and "trails of sticky goo" follow it as it is being pulled up.
YUCK!
It then balls up and gets all over the place as well as sticking to one's hands.
(maybe it's the weather?)

However, I LOVE the Hartco 425s!
Easy to pull up from the mat with no residue left behind!
Cuts buttery,weeds buttery!



I am guessing that all of the above cutter settings will be just a "starting point" because all of us will have our blades at a different depths.

I hope that these settings help someone out there.


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Mrs B,, 
Remember the Hartco has a repostionable glue on the back side,, if you stick it to a backer that is not paper and want it on something else,, peel and move it on over to something else,, ALOT!!! LoL
Have fun


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

The pressure you'll need is ALSO related to the distance from the tip of the blade to the material you are cutting. If the blade tip is too close, then you'll need more cutting force. If the tip is too high, then it may not reach the material to cut it. So, that's why I encourage the cutting of chipboard O Rings so that you can select a few to put over your blade holder to lift the tip up away from the rubber an optimum distance... which is normally around 1/16" - 1/8"... maybe a little more. You can email me for the O Ring file and I'm attaching photos showing how this works. The advantage is that once you know how many of the chipboard rings work best for you, then you can slip that number over the blade holder each time and know that you have that particular setting just right. Of course, you still need to check the blade exposure and I always recommend a test cut before you cut an entire pattern.


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## Mistyann (Dec 28, 2009)

Can _I order extra blade holders? I'd like to have one foreach material I use, that way I'm not constanly changing the length of the blade. I don't know if you can answer that hear or not....please just pm me with the info and cost. Thanks!_


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

Yes you can. And since I don't sell blade holders or other miscellaneous accessories, I assume it's fine for me to respond to this question publicly. Just go to the same web site where you bought your Maxx and you'll find your same blade holder under Accessories.


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

Also, make sure you always do the test cut. Even though you don't plan to change the blade exposure, it can change on its own if you have been cutting a lot and the brass ring becomes loose due to so much vibration during cutting. If this happens then the blade will begin to retract into the holder and that's NOT a good thing. One good habit is to always check that ring before inserting it into the bladeholder seat and make sure it's nice and tight.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

SandyMcC said:


> The pressure you'll need is ALSO related to the distance from the tip of the blade to the material you are cutting. If the blade tip is too close, then you'll need more cutting force. If the tip is too high, then it may not reach the material to cut it. So, that's why I encourage the cutting of chipboard O Rings so that you can select a few to put over your blade holder to lift the tip up away from the rubber an optimum distance... which is normally around 1/16" - 1/8"... maybe a little more. You can email me for the O Ring file and I'm attaching photos showing how this works. The advantage is that once you know how many of the chipboard rings work best for you, then you can slip that number over the blade holder each time and know that you have that particular setting just right. Of course, you still need to check the blade exposure and I always recommend a test cut before you cut an entire pattern.


 
Thanks SandyM for the O-ring file! 

I forgot to mention that in my post above. oops.

Although I have not used the O-rings as of yet, I did place 2 pieces of .22 chipboard underneath my blade tip so as to set the correct distance. 

Hopefully I will cut the O-rings tonight.

I guess I should add that info to my post above huh..? 
As well as adding that I made a "2-pass" cut! (what is the correct term for this?)


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

2 pass cut works! : )


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Mistyann said:


> Can _I order extra blade holders? I'd like to have one foreach material I use, that way I'm not constanly changing the length of the blade. I don't know if you can answer that hear or not....please just pm me with the info and cost. Thanks!_


 
I think that I will do this as well!

It is so hard for me to "see" the blade tip and keep adjusting for everythng.

I want a "smart" blade holder! Punch a button for a certain "mil/thickness" and BAM - it adjusts it for you!


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

I have seen those,, but I have never used a cutter that has those,, but wow would that be awesome, 
MMM


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## SandyMcC (Jul 23, 2009)

The Cricut and Pazzle blade holders work that way. But when we were testing them, we found that the exposure jumped a little too much from one setting to the next. Now if one of those settings is PERFECT for what you are cutting, then you're good to go. But what we found was that, in general, one setting would make the blade exposure too short and you wouldn't completely penetrate your material OR it was too long and you were cutting through your backing sheet or cutting into your cutting mat. The ideal blade holder would have the same design, but with much smaller increments and then you'd have the perfect one.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Awesome that the technology is already out there....and for a while apparently! LOL

(I guess I've been living under a rock! LOL)


I use a 30X-triplet jewelers loupe to view all of my rhinestones.....I guess I will use it to view my blade too!


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