# Mug image fading-Conde mugs-ink issues???



## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Having color issues with mugs. Not sure if it is low ink levels or pressing issues.

Conde mugs, sublijet inks, 4880, good paper.

Printed 8 transfers from the same batch. Pressed the first mug at 400 degrees for five minutes as per the instructions. Mug came out fantastic!

Every mug after that seemed to have color shifts. Greens turning more to blue aqua colors. The red on the mug seemed consistant.

I suspect ink issues, but I can't figure out how to check the ink levels on the 4880. I think the mugs are fine (ie. not the issue).

Did a nozzle check, everything good.

I altered the press time on several more mugs to 4 minutes and 3 minutes. Both images were clear, but still the green was not true like the first mug.

Any suggestions? Help with checking ink levels? The 4880 manual doesn't address sublimation inks and the instructions for checking ink levels do not work for the sublimation inks.

Thanks.


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## jpkevin (Oct 22, 2007)

Have you printed a nozzle check? I see you are using Sublijet inks, are you using the Powerdriver? In Powerdriver, you can print a "Primary Chart" which will print a 2 inch square of each of the colors. It is easier to see than the nozzle check and you can also make sure the head are able to print a solid square of color. Not a bad idea to print and sublimate that and keep it for reference down the road. That way you will know if you have a color shift. 

Do the transfers on paper look the same? It could be a heat issue with the press.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Nozzle check was good. I did one before printing and after I noticed the green fading to blue. Both were good.

Using the Powerdriver. I'll try printing the chart this afternoon and press it. Good idea.

I'll try and press another mug this afternoon from a "cold" press and see if the colors come out right.

I'm certainly not under-cooking the mugs with a 3, 4, and 5 minute press time from a pre-heated press. Would over-cooking them cause the color shift from green to aqua?


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## Conde_David (May 29, 2008)

What heat press are you using?

I would do a quick test and transfer to a flat substrate to judge color.

I also highly recommend printing a color chart to a set of mugs for reference.
Let me know.

Thanks.

I can provide a color chart or show you how to generate one from Corel.
For other programs they are posted or I can email.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Using mug press from RPL. Has their name on it, so I don't know about the original manufacturer.

Tell me how to generate the color chart in Corel. That way I can print the chart and the "green" that is mutating on a mug. Will give me a better idea of what is going on.

Is there a way to check the ink levels safely on my 4880? I'm thinking that low ink may be an issue.


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## selzler (Apr 4, 2007)

check the heat press temp I had this same thing happen and the temp was going up and down on me had to replace the thermostat and things got good again. also how old is the ink if out of date the colors can get werid.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

The other thing to consider is making sure that you allow for adequate time for the heat press to get back up to the proper temperature. Otherwise, it will not get hot enough and the colors will come out wrong. You might want to get some of the heat temperature test strips to verify the temperature is correct all the way around it as well. Printing the color charts that David mentioned is a good idea, but you might also want to print long horizontal bars to see if any slight changes in heat temperature is affecting your color.

Best wishes,

Mark


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Great ideas! Thanks.

Still have the unanswered question about finding a process to see my ink levels. Any thoughts on that one?


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Because of the Epson encryption, you will not be able to get the printer to give you a read out. The only other option is to actually weigh an empty cartridge and then weigh the cartridges in your printer. That is the only thing that I can think of that will give you a small clue or hint. I head some distributors were providing weight recommendations for when you should order new ink... but I don't know them off the top of my head. You should contact the company that sold you the ink.

Mark


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## Conde_David (May 29, 2008)

I think it is a cactus org 1or 2.

email me [email protected] and I can send the charts.
I can also email you my article for color charts.
Someone posted it on this forum.

Ink levels: I continue to look for chips that will show ink levels but
no luck. Epson has made it very tough (Hello Ricoh?).

So weight is the best guess. I am sorry about this.


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## jpkevin (Oct 22, 2007)

If you go to your Powerdriver, and hit the "Print Palette" button, it will print you the Colorsure palette that automatically installs with the driver. If you go to Coreldraw, and hit the "Window" button at the top, and then "Color Palettes", and then "Open Palette" button, you will see a Colorsure palette listed. Double click it, and it will load onto the right side of your Coreldraw screen. It should stay there for future use. That palette will match the "Print Palette" you printed from your Powerdriver. Press that onto some sublimatible material, and you will be able to pick your colors and spot color them in Corel using your docked palette.

Hope this helps.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

Ink levels should not be the problem. I run the 4880 with all eight channels sublimation and I am always changing cartridges right in the middle of a print job. The printer never misses a beat. I put the new cart in and it finishes right where it left off. even with a photo print, it will not miss a single line. It is probably due to the 3 feet of ink tubing between the cartridge sensor and the actual print head. I also have Sublijet. I like the ink but it is definately more picky about the paper you can use. True Pix and a Conde Equivalant are what I use. All my old transfer papers that I used with my Artanium inks don't give consistant results at all.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

I think I found the problem. Did another nozzle check and the yellow is spotty. I think we just have an ink/nozzle issue.

I printed the design from the same batch of eight transfers to a hard substrate on the flat press and get the same results. Greens not green = more blueish.

Now, how do I fix that without an ink sucking power cleaning? I'm open to suggestions.

David, I'm going to wait to print that color pallet until I get a good nozzle check. No sense wasting more ink when I already know I have at least one problem. I do appreciate the phone call earlier. Helped a lot.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

Try soaking the capping station with simple green. Use an eyedropper. Sawgrass says 20 minutes but I found that overnight does a much better job.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Was just reading that on another post. I'll give it a whirl. Thanks.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Got it fixed. There was a sludge pile of ink on the pad. Capping station was good. Let it soak 30 minutes. Ran a nozzle check. Finished my job.

Printed and pressed 50 mugs in 4 hours. A little slow, but still came out to $40 an hour profit!

My Chromablast nozzles are still not right, but I've all but written them off. Once I'm out of Sublijet ink, I'm going to flush the whole thing and go with 8 color sublimation.


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## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

birdsherriff said:


> My Chromablast nozzles are still not right, but I've all but written them off. Once I'm out of Sublijet ink, I'm going to flush the whole thing and go with 8 color sublimation.


I strongly recommend that you consider getting 4 cleaning cartridges (sealed or the refillable ones) for the LcLmLkLlk channels and put them in replace of the ChromaBlast cartridges. Depending on how long it will take you before you switch to an 8-channel printer, the 4 other channels might be permanently clogged and you will have to replace the print head and dampers. Do yourself a favor and save some money... change over to cleaning cartridges. The ChromaBlast inks can be difficult to clear clogs, especially ones that have been clogged for over a month. You can get these cleaning cartridges from any heat transfer / sublimation distributors.

Just my recommendation based on past experiences. Best wishes,

Mark


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Second time I've heard that recommendation. I think I'll do it. Thanks for the help.


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## Conde_David (May 29, 2008)

Good to hear. 

My the way, the flushing box (pad on left) is removable (one screw lower right). It then can be
removed and soaked. This is good to do say twice a year.


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## birdsherriff (Mar 23, 2009)

Yep. Found that screw. The pad was clogged with sludge. Cleaned it up and worked fine for the sublijet side. The chromablast is still messed up, but better. That side of the work load didn't materialize like I thought it would, so I'm going to an 8 ink setup when I get the chance.

David - I'll be talking to you again once I get to that point. Can't beat Conde's customer service, so I'm coming to you when I need inks and advice.


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