# Comprehensive screen printing supply list?



## cosmicjim (Sep 10, 2007)

Is there a comprehensive list of supplies I need for screen printing? I didn't see anything about supplies in the faq.

I have a 4 screen printer, conveyor dryer, flash dryer.
I have an exposure unit(I think that's the name, box with a think elastic blanket on the top with a compressor for sucking out air.)
I have some blank shirts to learn with.

What else do I need?
I need plastisol ink....
I need squegees, but know nothing about the squegees I need.

What do I need for creating screens?

Anything else I'm missing?

These supplies are the next step learning how to use my screen printer.


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## darwinchristian (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: Comprehensive supply list?*

maybe check out a company that sells "complete starter package" kits. they should have a breakdown of everything included to start printing... you can get your head around the products needed and then research them as to why you need them/ what they are used for.


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## John S (Sep 9, 2006)

*Re: Comprehensive supply list?*

Here is a link to a starter kit.

CCI Chemical Starter Kit (For Textile)


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## Sheepsalt (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: Comprehensive supply list?*

+1 for CCI - we use allot of their stuff. Also, check with your local supply house. Many times the local screen-printing supply vendors will have samples they can set you up with, and you don't have to wait for shipping when buying locally.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: Comprehensive supply list?*



cosmicjim said:


> Is there a comprehensive list of supplies I need for screen printing? I didn't see anything about supplies in the faq.
> 
> I have a 4 screen printer, conveyor dryer, flash dryer.
> I have an exposure unit(I think that's the name, box with a think elastic blanket on the top with a compressor for sucking out air.)
> ...


I think that would be great if we could get a list going in this thread that we could refer back to.


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## Sheepsalt (Sep 12, 2007)

> I think that would be great if we could get a list going in this thread that we could refer back to.


It would depend on what type of printing you plan on doing, coming down to what type of inks you'll be using. Different inks require different emulsions and different chemicals for cleanup.

Okay, so here's my contribution to the "comprehensive list" for printing t-shirts with plastisol inks:

Equipment:
Scoop Coater for coating screens
Drying rack for drying / storing pre-exposed screens
Exposure unit
Wash-out sink
Pressure washer
Storage for exposed screens
Printing Press - size & type depends on type of work you'll do
Flash cure unit
Conveyor dryer
Squeegees, 50-80 durometer, lengths sufficient for your needs.
"Goop Scoops" for dishing out inks

Supplies:
Cloth rags
Blue paper towels
PVC low-adhesive tape ("screen tape")
Scrub pads - keep them separated by use so that you never use one for degreasing or cleaning that you used for reclaiming or dehazing.
Trash bags

Chemicals:
Diazo dual-cure emulsion
Degreaser for washing screens pre-coat
Spot blocker for filling pinholes in screens (can also use emulsion for this)
Press-wipe solution for cleaning glue & ink off press
spray adhesive for holding shirts down
Screen wash solution, such as Citri-paste, for cleaning ink off screens
Emulsion remover for reclaiming screens
Dehazer for removing ghost images when reclaiming screens
Hand cleaner
Tri-chlor based aerosol degreaser for spot-cleaning problems on shirts (be careful using this stuff, it's really bad for you - don't breath it or get it on your skin)

That's off the top of my head, but I think that's about it for the printing part. Of course, you still need everything for printing your artwork onto films - computer, software, printer, film, ink, skills.


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## cosmicjim (Sep 10, 2007)

I love you, sheepsalt.


And yeah. Now what do I need to turn a vector file into a finished screen, that hasn't been listed, if anything?


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## Sheepsalt (Sep 12, 2007)

Preparing your artwork, printing films and exposing screens is a couple workshops in itself, but all you need to print the film is a computer with appropriate graphics software, a printer, and blank film appropriate for your printer. To make the screen you need a darkroom, emulsion, a scoop coater, a blank screen, and some type of exposure unit.

When I first started screen printing, I had the cheapest laser printer I could find - an Okidata, at that time. I bought the cheap transparency films from Office max, and was using Adobe Illustrator 9.0. The printer wouldn't print dark enough to keep light from going through the image, so I would print 2 copies of the art and overlap the films & tape them together at the edges with scotch tape. Sometimes the image was larger than the 8 X 10 1/2" area my printer would print, so I'd break up the image into quadrants and add extra registration marks to line up all the pieces - some art took 8 sheets of film! Wow, what a pain, but it worked. I'd set the color in CMYK to 100, 100, 100, 100, so it gets maximum toner, set the paper type to the heaviest setting, and select the best photo setting for the printer. Now, that's not the best setup, but it does work - it's time consuming to double up the film and make sure its lined up perfectly, the cheap film shrinks a bit when it's exposed so if you're wanting to do half tones or simulated process colors this probably won't even work.

Now I use an epson inkjet with roll-fed film and fastink from fastfilms. Set the color to 0, 0, 0, 100, and one pass does it - one piece of film, so simple. You can get good deals on the small epson roll-fed printers, like the photo 2200, on ebay.

For exposure, I started out with a 500-watt halogen shop light on a stand I built out of 1" pvc pipe. I was using, and still use, diazo dual-cure water-based emulsion. Keep everything light safe in your darkroom until you're ready to expose. Place the coated screen under the light, bottom up, and align the film on the screen, image down. Set a piece of clear glass over the film to keep the film pressed against the emulsion. Turn the light on for 12 1/2 minutes, then turn it off. Remove the glass and the film. 

Hopefully you have a sink and a pressure washer in your darkroom? Take the exposed screen to the sink and wet both sides, then wait 30 seconds. Spray it with the pressure washer from the ink side, and the image area will wash out, leaving the rest coated with emulsion. Once the image area is clear, stop! Shake off the extra water, and put the screen in front of a fan to dry. That's it - done, now take it into the light and use it.

If you don't have a sink in your darkroom, put the exposed screen in a black trash bag and take it to wherever you can wash it out. Keeping it in the bag, wet both sides of the screen and wait 30 seconds. Don't let light get to it during this time! Now, take it out and wash out the image area - be quick, because it will expose, and definitely stay out of the direct sun. If you don't have a pressure washer, a garden hose with a focused spray nozzle will usually work if your pressure is high enough.

Again, that's kind of crude, but it gets the job done. Best to use an exposure table with UV tubes, and a vacuum table is even better. Nice, even consistent exposures every time.


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## cosmicjim (Sep 10, 2007)

eh, do I need a darkroom if I have an exposure unit with the vaccuum thingy?


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## Sheepsalt (Sep 12, 2007)

Yes, your emulsion and coated screens have to be kept light-safe at all times prior to exposure. It's pretty simple to set up, though.

Block the windows with cardboard, put a towel under the door, and use a bug light from home depot - the yellow light bulbs they sell are non-uv, so they won't expose your emulsion. Keep your emulsion sealed in its container and your coated screens in a black trash bag until the room is safe.


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## Sheepsalt (Sep 12, 2007)

Amen, Fred! If you don't love it, you'll hate it.


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## 714punk (Sep 18, 2007)

This is tried and true
Screens and prep
Any commercial degreaser like Simple green diluted 8-1 and a scrubby sponge
I've even used dishwashing soap
12" emulsion coater
Small Fan to dry emulsion between coats
An Exposure Unit - Attend police auctions they always have 1000w MH & ballasts
I bought 2 MH for $10 and the gave me the ballast

PRINTING
Latex examining gloves - every time you handle ink
drafting dots - round thin masking tape that dispenses from a box - Pin Holes 
cheap packaging tape - apply to the back end where the ink wells - After your
job cleanup is easy the ink pretty much wipes right off
with paper towels, and keeping ink off the emulsion is
to wash out.
Acetone - removes cured plastisol- can blot out inkprints-most supply houses sell 
the fluid for the blow out guns and all it is Acetone at 5X the price.
NazDar Non Stop - best stuff ever invented - this breaks dried ink in the stencil- 
even vinyls and air cure on the press. Cleans wet ink then
evaporates.
3M Super 77 - the finest all purpose adhesive- 1 can will literally last 10k-15k pcs
$15 At first evry third piece and after a while it builds up and evry 
6th shirt and if you flashing it heats up and keeps going doesnt 
stain or get everywhere like that crap they sell you. 
Household Bleach - Reclaim screens IMPORTANT dilute with water 5-1 put in spray
bottle. Wet screen DEGREASE screen and spray it on and use 
pressure hose to wash out. And if you applied the emulsion 
correctly you will have NO problems-thick emulsion coating 
oily greasy screens are the root cause

FOR COATED SCREEN STORAGE
Get a red or amber bulb for your bathroom and coat and dry (fan) I'll repeat proper method coat print side then coat ink side dry with fan (5min) coat print side (optional) coat ink side. Dry then put in garbage bag seal up. As long as it is not in direct light they will be fine for about two weeks.

If you know anyone going to Vegas tell them to bring back 'slot cups' they are free heavy duty plastic cups perfect for mixing ink and after cover with cello


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## TeddyRocky (Mar 23, 2007)

714punk said:


> This is tried and true
> Screens and prep
> Any commercial degreaser like Simple green diluted 8-1 and a scrubby sponge
> I've even used dishwashing soap
> ...


Don't use bleach to reclaim screens, it's best to use emulsion remover concentrate, very cheap. Use proper textile tack and not 3M spray glue, same price anyway.....

For screens...do not wait 5 minutes for one side... Coat print side (side that touches shirt) first, immediately after coat the squeegee side. Lay print side downwards horizontally (make sure you have pegs or something similar so it doesn't touch surface), and invest in a dehumidifier for your dark room as it speeds up drying. If you have room in your shop/house, I suggest making a corner dedicated for your "darkroom." Black felt fabric, a curved curtain rod, and a piece of black felt for the top is good enough as long as no uv lights go through...

Build a drying rack so you can emulsion multiple screens at a time and keep them in storage. And good luck...


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## cosmicjim (Sep 10, 2007)

great stuff from everyone. The black curtains for a darkroom is going to save me alot of money. I was about to build some paneled walls.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*I made a Startup Supplies List when I was the Supply Director at Lawson Screen Products. Yes, it has loads of Multitech inks, but there is a reason for every supply listed. No, it's not every thing you might need - it's a startup list. *

http://www.lawsonsp.com/pdf/StartUpSupplies.pdf*


I have reviewed 714punk's suggestions and have some notes from the other side of the industry:*

Screens and prep
Any commercial degreaser like Simple green diluted 8-1 and a scrubby sponge. I've even used dishwashing soap

*Smell that fresh lemon or pine smell? That's an oil left behind. You've traded one oil for another.*

12" emulsion coater

*Unless you want to print 15", then you need one inch wider than your image at least.*

Small Fan to dry emulsion between coats

*Make sure you put it on the floor so it can stir up plenty of dust to stick in the wet sticky emulsion - Or, dry the air, with a de-humidifier and measure the relative humidity with a $19 Radio Shack gage, so you know when your screens are dry.*

An Exposure Unit - Attend police auctions they always have 1000w MH & ballasts. I bought 2 MH for $10 and the gave me the ballast

PRINTING
Latex examining gloves - every time you handle ink
drafting dots - round thin masking tape that dispenses from a box - Pin Holes 
cheap packaging tape - apply to the back end where the ink wells - After your job cleanup is easy the ink pretty much wipes right off with paper towels, and keeping ink off the emulsion is to wash out.

*I agree.*

Acetone - removes cured plastisol- can blot out inkprints-most supply houses sell the fluid for the blow out guns and all it is Acetone at 5X the price.

*Save money and use Shell gasoline instead of Acetone. Acetone is much more flammable than gasoline. Yes, there are flammable liquids used in airless pressure guns used to blow out cured plastisol. Expert Products of Los Angeles used to sell a flammable fluid called "Bang". Use chlorinated non-flammable spray out liquids designed for removing cured plastisol. They may cost more, but you will use less liquid per shirt and won't lose the use of your pistol hand.*

NazDar Non Stop - best stuff ever invented - this breaks dried ink in the stencil- even vinyls and air cure on the press. Cleans wet ink then
evaporates.
3M Super 77 - the finest all purpose adhesive- 1 can will literally last 10k-15k pcs
$15 At first evry third piece and after a while it builds up and evry 
6th shirt and if you flashing it heats up and keeps going doesnt 
stain or get everywhere like that crap they sell you. 


Household Bleach - Reclaim screens IMPORTANT dilute with water 5-1 put in spray bottle. 

*Bleach is what was used 'in the olden days' to break down gelatin indirect stencils, and it worked well, but modern stencils attack the cross links made by complete exposure, and a completely exposed stencil requires very little water pressure. Please wear a mask if you are spraying water at bleach, so you don't breath the bleach.*

Wet screen, DEGREASE screen and spray it on and use pressure hose to wash out.

*Use as little water as possible so you don't dilute the chemical. Use only enough water to make sure the entire stencil is covered with stencil remover - ?which is a liquid already so I don't understand how water helps.

* And if you applied the emulsion correctly you will have NO problems-thick emulsion coating oily greasy screens are the root cause

*The root cause of hard to remove stencils is that they are under exposed, or screen maker is in a hurry and doesn't allow the chemical to soak into the stencil and get to work breaking it up. Stencil remover of any kind has no idea how the stencil was applied. It is helpful to remove ink and chemical residue so you don't a barrier on the stencil and have to use lots of high pressure water and a second application of stencil remover.*

* FOR COATED SCREEN STORAGE*
Get a red or amber bulb for your bathroom and coat and dry (fan) 

*Perhaps the bathroom isn't the smartest place to dry screens as it's the wettest room in the building.*

*Safe lighting has been covered often in this forum:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t23724.html#post140633*
*
Search this forum for "Safe Light"*

I'll repeat proper method. Coat print side, then coat ink side, dry with fan (5min). Coat print side (optional) coat ink side. Dry then put in garbage bag seal up. As long as it is not in direct light they will be fine for about two weeks.

*When you coat mesh, the emulsion ends up on the other side - the mesh has holes in it! You can't actually coat it, but we still call it coating.

Coat the stencil side with a rounded lip coater (not a sharp edge, it just wastes your time - Yeah, I feel bad that you bought a sharp edge coater), until the emulsion joins up on the inside of the screen and has a glossy finish.
*









*Now turn the screen around and make a final coat on the squeegee side of the mesh, and it will push all the emulsion through the mesh to the stencil side where all the work will be done. 

Dry the screen, stencil side down, so gravity pulls the liquid emulsion to the bottom of the mesh where it belongs. 

If it drips, you coated too much at one time. This often happens to people that refrigerate their emulsion, then coat when it is thick and cold, and when it warms up, it drips.*

*More at:* http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t26741.html#post157599


If you know anyone going to Vegas tell them to bring back 'slot cups' they are free heavy duty plastic cups perfect for mixing ink and after cover with cello


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## karolina (Oct 7, 2007)

Hello,

How are you? Quick question: When you say bug light, do you mean the kind that is completely solid yellow? I went to Home Depot (as well as other hardware stores), and the only ones I could find were yellow, but transparent bug lights... The screen printing supply sites sell the kind that are completely solid yellow (not see-through), which made me wonder which kind you had in mind? Hope you understand my question - lol! Thanks a ton, I appreciate your help. I cannot wait to get started. Hope my first screen will come out decent : ) 

~ Karolina


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

karolina said:


> When you say bug light, do you mean the kind that is completely solid yellow?


I wrote about this in the past. A bug light may be safe, but I worry about how many different ''bug lights' there could be.

I know the lamp I listed here is safe.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t13934.html#post93729


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## karolina (Oct 7, 2007)

Hello again,

Thank you for your quick response... I did read your previous posting before emailing you. I'm still a bit confused though, simply because I'm unfamiliar with those types of lights. I am hoping to be able to find something at the hardware store, and not have to order online. I checked different screen printing suppliers, and they charge around $10 for shipping, even when the bulb itself only costs a couple bucks. Unfortunately there are no screen printing suppliers in our area either... Anyway, just wanted to know if using a transparent bug light would work. Thank you and sorry for the inconvenience. Have a great night!


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

No inconvenience. You've got shipping problems that may take much longer to conquer.


A hardware or lighting store is exactly the place to go. If they know their lighting catalogs, they should be able to look up and see if there is UV output.

In the regular world, cool white lamps or incandescent bulbs hardly put out any UV energy and if you keep the lights off or store your screens in the shade, you won't have any problems. Don't over think the lights - just cover your screens when they are dry.


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## karolina (Oct 7, 2007)

Hello,

Appreciate your advise, you're awesome! Thank you!!!

I called Lowe's and it sounds like they carry the solid yellow bug light, so I will be heading to the store tomorrow after work... Regarding the measuring - To be honest, I am not experienced enough to answer the question (unfortunately). Quite embarrassing - lol! 

I have recently purchased most of the needed equipment, but every time I go to get started something comes up (sudden work call, in need of bulbs etc). I promised myself that I will be printing this weekend, and hope to make it happen!

Thanks again, I can only hope to be as good as you are some day and help others get started! Have a great evening ~ Karolina


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

RichardGreaves said:


> A bug light may be safe, but I worry about how many different ''bug lights' there could be.


Well for one thing there are two very different kinds.

After a while I figured out the kind people meant here on the forums is some kind of no-UV light that doesn't attract bugs.

Whereas every bug light I've seen around here is the exact opposite: it's a UV light that attracts bugs so they hang around the light and not elsewhere.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

karolina said:


> Regarding the measuring - To be honest, I am not experienced enough to answer the question (unfortunately).


How are you measuring is a Socratic question that I expect to focus printers on their actual measuring results or (not so gently point out) where printers aren't measuring.

Measure the UV power of your 'bug light' by putting coins on coated screen that is exposed to your 'bug light' over a period of time. Search these forums for 'dime' and 'expose'. If you sacrificial stencil doesn't get exposed and cross link, it will wash out easily. If the stencil is hard to wash out, it's not 'safe'.


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