# Sublimation Grays turn out Purple & Blotchy Phone Cases



## JenSubs (Nov 18, 2015)

Hello Everyone!

I am brand new to Sublimation and am having trouble getting a good cell phone print. 

*Problems:*
- When I print on sub paper, the gray colors are looking purple
- Final print on the matte finish sublimation cell case has light colors, and it looks blotchy

*Materials:*
- I print with a new Epson Artisan 1430 (never used with non-sub ink)
- Printing on the correct (sticky) side of this sublimation paper: Amazon.com: JetSir Sublimation Heat Press Transfer Paper For Phone Case Mug Printing 100 Sheets Dye Sublimation Transfer Paper Puzzle Mugs Heat Press Printing Art
- Using brand new "XPRO III series Dye Sublimation ink continuous ink system CISS for Epson Artisan 1430". Details here: XPRO series Continuous ink system ciss epson artisan 1430 printer
- Printing on glossy and matte finish white sublimation cell phone cases
- Using 3D Sublimation Vacuum Heat Transfer / Heat Press Machine like this one: 3D Sublimation Vacuum Heat Transfer Heat Press Machine BK with $50 Value Gift | eBay

*Method:*
- The Ink Company, PrintX Pro, has a print profile, however I have not been able to get it to show up and work. They told me that most their customers do not have a problem with normal print settings and don't use the profile anyway. My print looks pretty good, but the gray is turning out purple. Final printed cases are definitely not up to par.

- I use the 3D sublimator on the cell phone cases at 190 degress for 6 minutes. The machine is already up to temp when I start. I have also tested other time ranges with no luck.

- Overall not a good result. Matte cases are every worse and more blotchy than the glossy cases. (is matte harder than glossy to look good?)

Any suggestions for any stage of this process would be a HUGE help! I attached pics of the process and the sub paper print out, as well as what the digital file looks like before printing.

Thanks,
Jennifer


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

JenSubs said:


> Hello Everyone!
> 
> I am brand new to Sublimation and am having trouble getting a good cell phone print.
> 
> ...


1. If there is a ICC profile available it should be used. If the profile is any good at all there should be significant improvement if you are pressing photographic items.

2. That 3D setup, part of your color issues could be related to your temp/dwell time. Often on complex shapes there is some trial and error involved.

3. Very good chance you have 2 unique color issues that are not related. If your color in general is off because of your color management and/or lack of using the profile the vendor offers then no matter how good you are at "dialing in" the substrate when pressing you are not going to be printing accurately.

Suggest that you work on simpler flat items for testing if you have a regular heat press. Hard to goof up pressing roll 100% poly you can get at Walmart cheap. 

Please post your settings for your profile.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

Looks like you are pressing at 180-190 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be 385-400 degrees Fahrenheit. If I'm not mistaken, the 190 they refer to is in Celsius.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

WalkingZombie said:


> Looks like you are pressing at 180-190 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be 385-400 degrees Fahrenheit. If I'm not mistaken, the 190 they refer to is in Celsius.


That front panel in the pic is showing 190 deg C, so she can't be pressing at 180-190 degrees F.

Some Chinese stuff doesn't show the actual F representation, only in degs C.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

mgparrish said:


> That front panel in the pic is showing 190 deg C, so she can't be pressing at 180-190 degrees F.
> 
> Some Chinese stuff doesn't show the actual F representation, only in degs C.


I was going off the phone case image where she wrote 190 degrees (F). I thought maybe she changed it.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

WalkingZombie said:


> I was going off the phone case image where she wrote 190 degrees (F). I thought maybe she changed it.


Yes, looks like a typo on her note. The colors in that photo wouldn't develop enough at that low of a temp in F. That's what a temp inside a car with the windows up in Phoenix in August could be. LOL


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## JenSubs (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks for your feedback everyone! 

*PURPLE INK*
Good news, I figured out the purple ink problem! It turns out when I print with the sub paper, the grays look very purple. However, when I do a sub transfer and it works correctly, it no longer looks purple. All the colors aftually look different than the print out, and look correct on the final item.

*ICC PROFILES*
I was able to finally get the ICC profile to work. It actually looks just like it did before I had it. It looks bad when printed on paper, but perfect when sublimated. Works for me!

*CELL CASES STILL LOOK BAD*
I am using Celcius like you guys said. Here is a picture attached when I processed 2 cases at the same time in the 3d sub machine, 6 minutes at 200 Degrees Celcius.

As you can see, the case on the left with the plate (you print on a flat plate then stick it to the case later) printed perfectly. Good colors and brightness. The case on the right is dull in color. I have tested more and less time on the 3d sublimator (4min, 6min, 8min, 10min). 

When I test on mouse pads, poly fabric, and the flat plate cell case they, come out perfect. But all of the 3d cell cases I do, turn out dull. I have tested 3d cell cases from 2 different companies in matte and gloss.

In summary, everything is sublimating just fine, but when it comes to the 3d sub cases, they keep looking dull in color. 

Let me know if you have any feedback!!!
Thanks,
Jen


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## AngelicEndeavour (Aug 12, 2013)

I could be wrong here bc I am new at sublimation, but it sounds like you've isolated the problem to being from the 3D press with hard cases. Is there any similar substrate that you could try in there to confirm it? I know you said polyester fabric substrates seem to work fine in there... Is there a contact at either the manufacturer or your distributor where you purchased it, that you might ask? I have been reading about a lot of issues with the 3D presses... Almost seems like "dialing it in" is particularly difficult, not to mention a lot of problems due to mechanical failures.


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## JenSubs (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks for all the helpful feedback!
I have the cases working for the most part. 

The temp was too high, which was causing problems. The perfect medium seems to be 150 Degree Celceus for 7minutes. Pics attached.

It still needs a little fine tuning. I will test a few more temperatures and durations, but now consider the cases to be working well!!!

Thanks!
Jen


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## JenSubs (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks AngelicEndeavor! 

It did take a lot of dialing in to get the 3d sub prints to work. At first the prints were so faded that it was hard to know where to start and I thought it had to do with the ink and paper! Now everything seems to be working great at 150 degree Cel for 7min. Good luck getting into sublimation also, it is a lot of fun!


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## AngelicEndeavour (Aug 12, 2013)

Glad you finally got it working! Seems like there's so many variables, it could've been just about anything causing your problem -- but you did the right thing and continued testing to rule out, one by one, the possibilities! There seems to be a real learning curve with sub, which is a bit scary -- but at the same time, there are sooooo many sublimatible substrates, I'm chomping at the bit to get started! Received some insert cellphone cases and Christmas ornaments to start, today -- I'm anxiously awaiting my printer to arrive, and I am SUPER excited!!!! I just hope I don't immediately run into issues bc that would be my luck!


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## JenSubs (Nov 18, 2015)

Good luck AngelicEndeavour getting sub to work for you!

The thing that really helped me was using the heat press first on items I knew were working, then taking almost a scientific approach to ruling out problems one by one : )

Good luck!
Jen


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

I am using almost the same exact setup as you however I am using Cobra Inks and profiles. The problem that I am having is that my blacks are not as dark as I would like, and there seems to be some ink migration or bleeding into my white areas. I am pressing at 190c for 7:45. That is where I get my best results, but I still get the bleed. I am using the ICS profile that is set up for polyester printing, and am wondering if there is a better setting to use that would eliminate the bleed. any suggestions anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated. I never realized just how much trial and error there is with sublimation, and the cost involved with the continued purchase of blanks in an attempt to get things right. Aloha and Mahalo


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## Helvis (Jan 26, 2015)

The only sublimation stuff I have done was some transfers on white sweat shirts a few decades ago. 

So, my inexperience aside, I wonder if there is a way you can lower the amount of black ink being put down on the transfer paper to limit that spread during the sublimation process. 

Also, if you have the original art that you can manipulate, I would try making the stripes on the flag/bandanna red. It would look more like a real flag and assuming that the red doesn't migrate, that part would look better.

You would also want to change the color of the text to blue or red to avoid the black migration, or possibly put an outline of blue or red around it that could possibly stop the black from migrating across the thin white lines.

Just some thoughts. Good luck.





hawaiianphatboy said:


> I am using almost the same exact setup as you however I am using Cobra Inks and profiles. The problem that I am having is that my blacks are not as dark as I would like, and there seems to be some ink migration or bleeding into my white areas. I am pressing at 190c for 7:45. That is where I get my best results, but I still get the bleed. I am using the ICS profile that is set up for polyester printing, and am wondering if there is a better setting to use that would eliminate the bleed. any suggestions anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated. I never realized just how much trial and error there is with sublimation, and the cost involved with the continued purchase of blanks in an attempt to get things right. Aloha and Mahalo


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

Helvis, thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I may try a few of them. The reason the flag was only white and blue was to represent Police Officers and the Thin Blue Line, that's why no red. But I may try to change things just to see if it makes a difference. I do not know how to change the amount of black that would be put down, and if I did, I am not sure if that would change the black background and change it to a gray instead. Aloha


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## Helvis (Jan 26, 2015)

You're welcome Ro. I should have realized there was a reason for the blue, lol. You could do the one blue line down the middle like you already had and the rest red.

It could be that particular black ink that is causing the problem and switching brands may resolve it. I'd probably call the manufacturer to see if they have a resolution.





hawaiianphatboy said:


> Helvis, thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I may try a few of them. The reason the flag was only white and blue was to represent Police Officers and the Thin Blue Line, that's why no red. But I may try to change things just to see if it makes a difference. I do not know how to change the amount of black that would be put down, and if I did, I am not sure if that would change the black background and change it to a gray instead. Aloha


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## hawaiianphatboy (Apr 28, 2008)

Thanks again Helvis. I have tried to reach out to Richard at Cobra, but never seem to get a response. I have had some issues in the past and was told to "watch the video". This time I texted him as instructed to by the website, and no answer. So I guess I will work on getting rid of the ink that I do have and then start looking for a new vendor and ink, one with more support maybe. When I get some time, I will try doing some of the things you suggested and see what happens. Aloha again.


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