# Digital Heat FX Transfer Issue



## cmaplustshirts

I purchased a Digital Heat FX printer OKI Data Port PRO 8432WT from Colman & Co and I had already owned a Geo Knight K20 Heat Press. I was told by my sales rep that what paper and transfer sheets I would need to make this system work. Since purchasing it I have made 0 shirts that are usable. I have spoken with Colman & CO tech service multiple times and I have been told multiple different temps to use and times to work with.  I can make small flags that print well but seem faded after the final press. But I cannot get larger prints to transfer. I have been told to use the following temps and times:

285 for 1:30 to make A & B stick. Low Pressure
Wait 10 seconds to peel apart.
285 for 30 seconds for transfer to shirt. Low Pressure
Let cool and peel apart

( This first instance A&B did not adhere.)

300 for 1:45 to make A & B stick. Low Pressure
Wait 10 seconds to peel apart.
300 for 30 seconds for transfer to shirt. Low Pressure
Let cool and peel apart

(This instance when peeling A&B it only part way adhered together)

385 for 2:00 to make A & B stick. Medium Pressure
Wait 10 seconds to peel apart.
385 for 45 seconds for transfer to shirt. High Pressure
Let cool and peel apart

(This instance A&B had a decent hold but it almost cooked my protection sheet. When transferring to the t shirt color was faded and stuck to shirt)

350 for 2:00 to make A & B stick. Medium Pressure
Wait 10 seconds to peel apart.
350 for 45 seconds for transfer to shirt. Medium Pressure
Let cool and peel apart

(This instance A&B would stick together but there would be streaks in B where the color would not adhere. When pressing it to shirt the transfer paper would stick to the tshirt and I would have to rip it off the shirt.)

I am using soft ring spun cotton shirts. I have photos of the mistakes, which I sent to Colman and was given the steps above. The steps above are in order of what I was told to do to make the press work. I am trying to make shirts for fundraisers and for charity for our office. Any assistance would be appreciated.


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## mfatty500

I am in the research stage of getting a white toner printer, so I can't help much, but you could try here, if you haven't yet.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/WhiteTonerSuccess/


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## LancerFlorida

Take your papers and shirt to the Coleman office and simply say, "Show me."
You need to find "something' you know is working and eliminate from there.

Where I would start is taking the temp of the heat press across the platen using test strips like those you can get from the Paper Thermometer Co. www.paperthermometer.com


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## tfalk

If you don't mind trying one more, try this...

For marrying, 305 degrees for 120 seconds. Do 2 full cycles to make sure everything is up to temp before marrying an actual print including the teflon and parchment. On the bottom platten, put a teflon sheet, then a piece of parchment paper, A sheet facing up, B/Adhesive sheet facing down and a piece of parchment on top. When the timer is done, open press lowly, count to 5, then do a roll/peal as tight as you can keep the B to the A sheet and it should marry successfully. I found by pure accident that adding the teflon sheet on the bottom seems to help by reflecting the heat back up and I get perfect marries virtually every time.

For Forever Dark, which should be virtually the same as the Coleman paper, we use 320 for 3 seconds with medium-high pressure. Wait until it cools completely, peel and repress at same temp/pressure for 30 seconds with a piece of parchment on top. 385? Hell no colors will look good if you cook them that much...

Reds are the hardest color to get to print correctly with these printers, especially if the RIP/Software you are using adds a lot of white underbase.


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## cmaplustshirts

LancerFlorida said:


> Take your papers and shirt to the Coleman office and simply say, "Show me."
> You need to find "something' you know is working and eliminate from there.
> 
> Where I would start is taking the temp of the heat press across the platen using test strips like those you can get from the Paper Thermometer Co. www.paperthermometer.com


I sent them the pictures and shirts to show them what I was having issues on and I was informed to follow the methods I described in my original post. 

If you don't mind trying one more, try this...
@tfalk

"For marrying, 305 degrees for 120 seconds. Do 2 full cycles to make sure everything is up to temp before marrying an actual print including the teflon and parchment. On the bottom platten, put a teflon sheet, then a piece of parchment paper, A sheet facing up, B/Adhesive sheet facing down and a piece of parchment on top. When the timer is done, open press lowly, count to 5, then do a roll/peal as tight as you can keep the B to the A sheet and it should marry successfully. I found by pure accident that adding the teflon sheet on the bottom seems to help by reflecting the heat back up and I get perfect marries virtually every time.

For Forever Dark, which should be virtually the same as the Coleman paper, we use 320 for 3 seconds with medium-high pressure. Wait until it cools completely, peel and repress at same temp/pressure for 30 seconds with a piece of parchment on top. 385? Hell no colors will look good if you cook them that much...

Reds are the hardest color to get to print correctly with these printers, especially if the RIP/Software you are using adds a lot of white underbase."

I will try this method out and see if that gives a better adhere.


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## TABOB

tfalk said:


> Reds are the hardest color to get to print correctly with these printers, especially if the RIP/Software you are using adds a lot of white underbase.


Red should not have any white backing. 
The basic idea with all digital transfers is to preserve the design layer while melting the adhesive behind it. This is easy to do with polymers that stick but don't mix together. If you print white and red toner, they will mix.


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## inooeee

Hey whats up i have the same printer and have used the same transfer paper. I have my settings like this and it works every time. ( i have the Hottronix Fusion IQ) not sure if that will make a difference. 
(Marry step)
325 degrees
5 pressure (medium pressure)
75 Sec

On to t shirt
325 degrees
medium pressure
45 sec
and cold peel

repress another 20 sec same settings to get a longer lasting finish.

and i wouldnt wait to peel off because once the sheet kinda cools off is when you have trouble and the design gets stuck and doesnt peel off right. Id keep it on the press and peel it off right away. Thats how i have been doing it and its worked so far.

Hope this helps.


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## PAPro

inooeee said:


> Hey whats up i have the same printer and have used the same transfer paper. I have my settings like this and it works every time. ( i have the Hottronix Fusion IQ) not sure if that will make a difference.
> (Marry step)
> 325 degrees
> 5 pressure (medium pressure)
> 75 Sec
> 
> On to t shirt
> 325 degrees
> medium pressure
> 45 sec
> and cold peel
> 
> repress another 20 sec same settings to get a longer lasting finish.
> 
> and i wouldnt wait to peel off because once the sheet kinda cools off is when you have trouble and the design gets stuck and doesnt peel off right. Id keep it on the press and peel it off right away. Thats how i have been doing it and its worked so far.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I use the same settings with one difference. I use a Magic Touch T.Seal sheet on my final step. 295 degrees for 20 seconds, medium pressure. Works perfectly every time. Press is a DK20SP.


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