# Can you transfer to painter's canvas?



## izlude (Apr 16, 2010)

I've got some 3G Jet Opaque heat transfers. I'm wondering if they will apply to a painter's canvas. I was wanting to buy some "deep" 8x8 inch canvases, remove them from their wood frames, press the images and then put them back on the frames.

If not, is there a suggested transfer sheet that would work?

Lastly, I see blank canvases for sale at 6 dollars a piece at the shop. Would you say that's a good deal or can I do better than that?


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## rossdv8 (Dec 21, 2012)

I transfer to several different canvasses.

You can buy a canvas already stretched in a frame at "dollar shops". Make sure the inside of the frame will fit over your press. Just press it like it was a shirt.
Sometimes I get a longer stretched, framed canvas and print on it 2 or 3 times. Makes a double or triple print.

I buy 'books' of ten sheets of canvas A3 size for $8. That's 80 cents a sheet. A4 is about 60 cents a sheet.

Some of the canvases have a coating that will peel after heating, some don't. You will have to try it and find out. So buy one and test it before you thnk you have a bargain.

Some have a coating that will accept sublimation. I have made some beautiful sunset prints sublimation onto that stuff.

I'm using a mouse pad I printed with heat transfer paper onto a canvas over cardboard. You can buy them ready to paint on. The heat warps the cardboard backing, but once you get it right it works great. The ones I used were all A4 because that's what I had, but next time I will use half that size.

I had to re heat the thing a few times until I got the idea of stacking it under some heavy books while it cooled.

I use some clear silicone 'personal lube' to make the surface slippery. Once that is rubbed in and wiped off it stays slippery for months. makes the pad easy to wipe clean also.

ALWAYS use teflon or butcher paper or something to protect your press. I found that out the hard way.

Cheers,

RossD.


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## izlude (Apr 16, 2010)

Hi thanks for the advice. Sadly no dollar store near me sells them  That would be so boss!! I'll have to deal with Michaels Arts & Crafts. (a craft store in my region).

I have a regular t-shirt press (Clamshell style).
[media]http://printersedge.com/images/uploads/heat_press.jpg[/media]

That's why I'm wondering about the whole removing canvas from frame, pressing, then placing it back on thing. Don't think mine will let me press with frame on 

I have pigment ink only, so thanks for letting me know about the coating on some canvases.

Oh thanks too for reminding me about protective paper. I can just imagine myself pressing (protecting the top heated area) but forgetting to put something under  making a sticky mess of the pad. aye aye :S

If I ever get around to it, I'll report my results


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## GordonM (May 21, 2012)

The opaque papers aren't great for this, and you don't need them. The opaque papers are made for dark fabrics and you can use basic white canvas. Something like Red Grid is good. Experiment for best peeling times. I've found it's better to wait 5-10 seconds after pressing and before peeling, or else you get an incomplete transfer.

Don't use "artists canvas." It's got gesso or other primer, and is more expensive than you need. Just buy cheap 100% cotton white or off-white (your choice) canvas material at a fabric store. You might want to wash it first, and pre-press it to shrink before applying your transfer. With a transfer paper like Red Grid you'll still be able to see the canvas texture, which is what you want.

Buy your own stretcher bars instead of purchasing the canvas already stretched. MisterArt has good prices of less than 40 cents for the 8" length. For 8"x8" you don't need the extra heavy duty ones.


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## rossdv8 (Dec 21, 2012)

You can have a lot of fun with heat press. I started out just printing with my A3 inkjet printer onto pieces of canvas that I cut our of a stretched frame then cut to size and fed into the printer.

Then I discovered the mug press and sublimation. I use a Brother 6510DW which is less than $200 and run Epson compatible Dye Sub ink. No nozzle blocks and I can leave the printer for weeks without printing anything, do a nozzle check and go. There are no ICC profiles, but hey. a simple change of CMYK on my graphics program or RGB on my printer control and I have acceptable photos.

I use the same model printer for heat press but with either standard brother ink, or Epson compatible pigment ink. The biggest problem I had printing on canvas was peeling the transfer. Coated canvas can be a pain. 

Regarding the frame. Measure the width and length of the platen on your press. The bottom part you put your work onto. My small press, the clamshell, is 15 inches by 15 inches. There is 2 inches clearance between the back of the platen and the body of the press. So I can comfortably fit a square 17.5 inch by 17.5 inch framed canvas on it and print in the middle. Or I can put a frame that is 18 inches by about 36 inches and print three 11 by 17 prints side by side as a triple panel by moving the frame each time. I simply mask each previous print with teflon sheet and move it sideways.

I know this is a t-shirt forum, but hey, you can have great fun once you see opportunities for other decorating.

Cheers,

RossD.


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