# All of ink not transferring



## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

Tonight I printed three shirts as tests. The first shirt was a one color glow in the dark that printed cleanly. The second one was a regular two color and it left a bunch of white ink behind on the paper (could see and feel). The third was a multi color glow in the dark that left some ink behind, but not as much as the second.

All were pressed at 400*F with high-medium pressure (6 on Hotronix) for 15 seconds. Directions for all on ProWorld were 390-400, medium pressure, 10-12 seconds. I had chopped up a transfer the other day and pressed at various settings. The settings I used on the three shirts had a 50% success rate in testing. The other settings all had troubles with leaving ink behind. The one with the worst residue was by F&M Expressions, the others don't list a mfg. 

What am I doing wrong?


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

*Re: All of ink not transferring (stock transfers)*

So I looked more closely at the transfers tonight when I took them out of the wash, and both that I had troubles with ink left on the paper were F&M. I also noticed that the edges of the white ink where it meets the fabric are lifting a little.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

Did you work through the troubleshooting thread? What FM transfers require 15 seconds?


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

Yes, I am trying some troubleshooting now.

The ProWorld directions for almost all the regular transfers I got, which are all different manufacturers, are 390-400, medium pressure for 10-12 seconds and peel hot. 

I'm going to grab a sheet and try dropping the temp to 390. Tests at 400 for 12-20 seconds and 5-8 pressure on the Hotronix Auto Clam all seem to leave ink on the paper and a little lifting on the white ink at the edges. One test with a cut up transfer had a section peel cleanly, but the same settings on another section did not.

I'm at a loss, but I have quite a few shirts & transfers to test with and an eBay account to dispose of the duds.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

First line under troubleshooting:
*Temperature: Start with the manufacturer's recommendations*

It seems that right off the bat you extended the time to 15 seconds when the directions say 10-12 seconds. 

Second item: More is not better.

Third Item: Check your temps. 

Etc.

Are you preheating? Did you check temperatures? Did you try turning the transfer 90° and press again (or move to another part of the platen and press again)? 
Until you've done the basics, people can only offer guesses.


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

I didn't extend to 15 right out of the gate. I originally tested another at 12 and lots of ink. Tried 15 and it seemed a little less ink on the paper and actually had one that was clean. 

I've now tried several at 390 which seems to have improved, and tried 12 seconds again which was very very bad. And I have preheated every time, so much so that there could not possibly be moisture left in the shirts. I am using a brand new Hotronix, so it seems unlikely that the press is the problem and I do not currently have a way to check it since apparently a heat gun won't work from what I read. 

I'll keep fiddling with it. Eventually something has to work.


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## sslover85 (Jul 29, 2014)

which designs are you trying to press?? I use proworld all the time now with no issues. Most of them I transfer at 400 degrees for 12 seconds. HEAVY pressure. I had to make a table and bolt my press down to get these to work right.


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

These are all cannabis-themed designs that I have been working with. I have been pressing at a 7-8 reading on the press, anymore than that and I don't have the oomph to get it closed. So far i have pressed F&M, Wildside and unknown mfg designs. F&M seems to have the most trouble with leaving ink behind, especially white and yellow.


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## INSTAtech (May 13, 2016)

Hello,

I might be able to shed some light on your issue.

I have a few questions for you.

1. When you look at the transfer on the side you will adhere to the garment, do you see a granulate adhesive or does it just look like a plastisol print? 
2. As far as the ink sticking to the transfer paper, are large portions of the design staying on the paper or are their what looks like craters in the image?
3. Have you tried cold peeling the transfer?


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## INSTAtech (May 13, 2016)

Hello,

I might be able to shed some light on your issue.

I have a few questions.

1. When you look at the transfer on the side that you will adhere to the garment, do you see a granulate adhesive or does it look like a plastisol print?
2. As far as the image sticking to the paper, Are large portions of the image staying on the paper or are their what looks like craters in the image?
3. Have you tried to cold peel the transfer?


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

INSTAtech said:


> Hello,
> 
> I might be able to shed some light on your issue.
> 
> ...


1 - I'm not sure, it all looks like plasticky ink to me
2 - Most of the transfer is going on, it is leaving bits behind on the paper so there are "craters" in the design as you put it.
3 - I haven't tried peeling other than hot. I wasn't sure if the paper would even come off if I let it cool at all.


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## INSTAtech (May 13, 2016)

Have you tried contacting the manufacture?

Do you keep your transfers in a air tight storage container? example: a Zip Lock bag

Do you deal with a lot of humidity where you are storing your transfers?


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

INSTAtech said:


> Have you tried contacting the manufacture?
> 
> Do you keep your transfers in a air tight storage container? example: a Zip Lock bag
> 
> Do you deal with a lot of humidity where you are storing your transfers?


I just got the transfers from ProWorld about a week and a half ago and they are currently in plastic work order holders from Amazon. I do not have zip-top bags that large.

Oregon is currently undergoing a drier than normal spring, so humidity is not really a problem in my garage.

I haven't really reached out to any of the transfer manufacturers. Since I am new to this, I figure it is something I am doing wrong.


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## INSTAtech (May 13, 2016)

Most transfer manufactures are pretty helpful when it comes to their transfers that they manufactured. I would recommend to contact them.

If you do not want to contact them here are a few tests you can do if you have transfers to spare.

This issue you are having could be moisture related. Even though you say you don't have that much humidity in Oregon, moisture will still try to get back in the paper.

1. Pre heat the garment before fusing the transfer.

2. Try putting your heat press on 150 F, then put your transfer under the heat plate adhesive side down (the side to be adhered to garment) make sure that you have at least 2-3 inches between the heat plate and the transfer. Let the transfer sit under the heat plate for 10-15 min. Try to fuse the transfer again at the manufactures recommended application settings. If you are getting the craters I spoke of, this should help. Basically you need to get the moisture back out of the transfer. Some transfer papers/coatings are more likely to except moisture back in to the substrate quicker than others. 

I wish you good luck.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

CannaGroove said:


> I do not currently have a way to check it since apparently a heat gun won't work from what I read.


If you mean an IR thermometer they work just fine. There is someone here that keeps going around telling people they won't work and that they have to buy an expensive contact thermometer but that's not true. As long as the surface of the platen isn't shiny metal, an IR temp gun will work just fine. I have a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it works.


It seems unlikely you would get a batch of transfers from various manufacturers and every one is bad. When it comes to asking for help, you have to be specific about your exact process, what you've tried, and what you haven't. You really need to check the temperature. My Hotronix runs about 10-12°F hot.


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

My temp gun is also from Harbor Freight and I've used it in the past for measuring temps on lots of things and never had a reason to doubt the results.

So, according to it, the temp on the front half of the platen is running about 20* hotter than the setting on the press. The temp on the back half drops off a little, but if I'm threading shirts, I'm gonna be using the front almost exclusively.

The Stahl's QC sheet in the box showed they checked the temperature and it passed. I would not expect a brand new out of the box press to be off so much, especially not a top brand.

I guess I will be running some more tests.


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## CannaGroove (Apr 5, 2016)

Well, it does look like the heat was the primary problem. I dropped the press down to 380 so it was operating at 400 or a little under and just did three shirts. 

One (unknown) was perfect, no problem at all. 

The second (X-it) was good for the most part, a few tiny bits of white didn't transfer. 

The third was one of the F&M that was horrible last time. This time, all of the ink transferred fine, the only issue was some lifting at the edges. I repressed for a few seconds with a teflon sheet and it looks ok.

I'm going to try dropping another 5 degrees and see how it behaves, but I think I may have the beast at least caged, not quite tame.


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## flymonkey (Mar 10, 2016)

You have shared a lot of information that answered some of my questions! thanks and keep posting!


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## prathap (Aug 20, 2015)

If there is ink left on paper just cut it off and give a heat press


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