# Tagless Transfer Labels?



## dAi (Jan 27, 2008)

Hi,

Anyone knows any good site that does Tagless Transfer Labels with more than one Color with a way good convenient price?

clothinglabels4u.com is too expensive for me...


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

dAi said:


> Hi,
> 
> Anyone knows any good site that does Tagless Transfer Labels with more than one Color with a way good convenient price?
> 
> clothinglabels4u.com is too expensive for me...


What about having some plastisol transfer 'tags' produced and pressing them in yourself? That would definitely be the cheapest way.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

I like the way 2 color tags look (like Design By Humans), but it certainly adds to the cost of having them made. Another take on Rhonda's idea is to use transfer paper. One of the better ones like Imageclip, Iron All, etc.


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## dAi (Jan 27, 2008)

queerrep said:


> What about having some plastisol transfer 'tags' produced and pressing them in yourself? That would definitely be the cheapest way.


now how would i do that?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

dAi said:


> now how would i do that?


I'll give you an example of what I did. I used First Edition but there are many more plastisol vendors mentioned here on the forum .....

1 - I prepared my tag artwork at 100% on a 12 x 12" document in Illustrator using spot colors (PMS). I was able to fit 16 tags on the page.

2 - I emailed the file to First-Edition and told them how many I needed and what color ink I wanted

3 - They printed and shipped them back to me and I trim them down when I need them and press into the shirt (after removing the tag).

The more tags you fit onto the page, the more cost effective it is. Different vendors have different page sizes and different specifications, so you'll have to check with them before setting yours up.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

As for cost, I just did some quick calculations using the pricelist First-Edition has on their website; based on 200 sheets of labels with 16 labels per sheet (for a total of 3,200) labels.

For a THREE color label it would cost 12¢ per label.

For a ONE color label it would cost 4¢ per label.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

queerrep said:


> The more tags you fit onto the page, the more cost effective it is. Different vendors have different page sizes and different specifications, so you'll have to check with them before setting yours up.


Another advantage to ganging them this way is you are able to print your sizes S M, L., XL, etc. all on one page. For example, if half the shirts I sell are normally XL, then 8 out of the 16 labels on that one page will be size XL labels. 

So you don't have to do a transfer order per size, like you would with woven labels.


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## dAi (Jan 27, 2008)

queerrep said:


> I'll give you an example of what I did. I used First Edition but there are many more plastisol vendors mentioned here on the forum .....
> 
> 1 - I prepared my tag artwork at 100% on a 12 x 12" document in Illustrator using spot colors (PMS). I was able to fit 16 tags on the page.
> 
> ...


HEY RHONDA,

WHAT TYPE OF PLASTISOL PAPER CAN I USE IF I DO EVERYTHING BY MYSELF? DOESN'T PLASTISOL PAPER LEAVEL A POLYMER WINDOW AFTER TRANSFERRING TO GARMENT? I OWN EPSON PRINTER, AND HEATPRESS AND A PLOTTER

CAN THIS REALLY BE DONE ALL ON MY OWN? IT WOULD BE SUPER HELPFUL TO DO THIS ON MY OWN

SEE PIC OF THE LABEL THAT I WANT BUT WITH COLORS

IS PLASTISOL PAPER THE ONE THAT U DONT HAVE TO MIRROR THE IMAGE WHEN PRINTED BUT CUT DOWN WITH A CUTTER?

SEE PIC >>> http://img01.picoodle.com/img/img01/4/4/7/f_TAGSm_e3aca46.jpg

also the small text for washcare instructions?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

dAi said:


> WHAT TYPE OF PLASTISOL PAPER CAN I USE IF I DO EVERYTHING BY MYSELF? DOESN'T PLASTISOL PAPER LEAVEL A POLYMER WINDOW AFTER TRANSFERRING TO GARMENT? I OWN EPSON PRINTER, AND HEATPRESS AND A PLOTTER
> 
> CAN THIS REALLY BE DONE ALL ON MY OWN? IT WOULD BE SUPER HELPFUL TO DO THIS ON MY OWN
> 
> ...




Plastisol transfers are silkscreened images. You can't print them with your Epson. You have to use screens. And you have to use plastisol ink, not printer ink.

Essentially you are silkscreening on to a sheet of paper instead of the garment. You semi-dry the ink. Once you are ready to put the image on a garment, you heat the image with a press, the ink melts on to the shirt, then you remove the paper transfer backing.

There is no polymer window. You are laying down what you silkscreened directly on to the garment. The paper leaves no residue. 

With plastisol transfers, you do have to print in reverse of what you would do with normal silkscreening (but the same as you would do with inkjet transfers). Not only are you preparing your screen as a mirror image of what a silkscreener would normally do, you also apply your ink colors in reverse. So your white underbase for instance would be printed last on the transfer.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Rhonda,

What ink color do you use for your labels so they show up on both light and dark garments? Or do you print separate sets of labels?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Sorry guys. I didn't realize there were new posts here, but I replied to your PM, dAi.


splathead said:


> Rhonda,
> 
> What ink color do you use for your labels so they show up on both light and dark garments? Or do you print separate sets of labels?


Joe: I do a cream color so it shows on both white and darks. Here's a pic (it looks more like white in the photo, but it's a cream color):









And as you mentioned, I do several different sizes on one sheet.


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## Parkwood (Jan 14, 2008)

If I want to apply a tagless transfer from First Edition on the inside collar can I do it with a regular heat press? I'm afraid that creases will press into the collars. I'm trying to avoid buy a separate press (hat?) just to do this.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Parkwood said:


> If I want to apply a tagless transfer from First Edition on the inside collar can I do it with a regular heat press?


That's exactly what I do and it works fine.


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## Parkwood (Jan 14, 2008)

Rhonda, How do you avoid creasing the collar? I would think that the amount of pressure on the heat press would cause a crease.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Parkwood said:


> Rhonda, How do you avoid creasing the collar? I would think that the amount of pressure on the heat press would cause a crease.


It's not noticeable [to me] at all because basically where it creases it is at the top shoulder seams. Does that make sense?  Plus since the collar is ribbed you really can't tell.


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## JeffroDesigns (Apr 22, 2008)

Does anyone know where to get cheap 4 color process iron on tags?

I'm thinking about going the route Rhonda did, which is a great idea, I use a transfer company but hadn't thought about using them for labels! Thanks for the idea!

~Jeffro


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## xbrandon408x (Jan 24, 2008)

hey what if you don't have a heat press can you use an iron since the image is just a little tag and an iron can cover the whole image.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

You can't use an iron for plastisol transfer labels because the iron does not get hot enough. The temperature must reach 320 degrees or so for transfers and an iron only gets up to 200 or so.


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## xbrandon408x (Jan 24, 2008)

ohhhh i see i don't know if its worth it then cause heat presses are expensive so im guessing ill just have to stick to screenprinting it on


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## RadiantStatic (Apr 15, 2008)

What is First Edition's Website?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Custom Transfers - First Edition


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## javierfdez7 (Oct 23, 2006)

I ordered some 2 color heat transfers from etsy for around $0.25 each
the tags are great and they work low volumes and multicolor!

I won't put the link here, I understand it is against the forum guidelines,
so if anyone is interested, let me know


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## mikeyriz1024 (Nov 2, 2011)

If you can a hat press makes this job a breeze.


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## mikeyriz1024 (Nov 2, 2011)

And i tag all my tees this way via plastisol transfers. Great cost saving idea.


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

sorry, can't help ya here


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