# how much time I have after printing



## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi, I'm trying to figure out what's the time frame like between printing and pressing.

Can I print my design on to the transfer (JPSS) and press it like 5 days later? I work full time, so I plan to do heat press during weekend.

Does anyone encounter any problem with this method?

Thanks
Sam


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Can I print my design on to the transfer (JPSS) and press it like 5 days later? I work full time, so I plan to do heat press during weekend.


You can do that, no problem. I've pressed transfers that I printed a month before and they come out just fine.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Awesome! Thanks Rhonda. This helps a lot. I can sleep better now. Trying to start a business is very stressful when you have limited budget.

Hey, I'm from Duluth, Gwinnett. Which part of town are you Rhonda?

Where do you get your blank tshirt and what brand?


Thanks for the information.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I always store my transfers in a plastic bag to keep dust off them. I suggest waiting for the ink to dry and then store in a plastic bag away from sunlight. .... JB


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for the tip. I would have not thought of that.

Does any one know where I can buy cheap blank T in Atlanta? I would like to support local business.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Awesome! Thanks Rhonda. This helps a lot. I can sleep better now. Trying to start a business is very stressful when you have limited budget.
> 
> Hey, I'm from Duluth, Gwinnett. Which part of town are you Rhonda?
> 
> ...


No problem, Sam.  I am in Midtown and I usually buy my blanks from TSC which has a pickup location in Norcoss. I also sometimes order from Broder Brothers and they are in Duluth.

I agree with JB about storing the transfers in a plastic bag ... especially here in GA where it's so freakin' humid.

One thing to keep is mind is that after a while the printed transfer will start to look faded, but once you press it the colors will be 100% revived.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Pressing on dark T. I have seen on youtube where you just press the printed image. No need to trim around the image. Only the ink part is tranfered to the T. This save a lot of time. I wonder if you or anyone know the brand or where to get it.

Also, what's the fastest/best way to handle big quantities like 50 T.

Thanks


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Pressing on dark T. I have seen on youtube where you just press the printed image. No need to trim around the image. Only the ink part is tranfered to the T. This save a lot of time. I wonder if you or anyone know the brand or where to get it.
> 
> Also, what's the fastest/best way to handle big quantities like 50 T.
> 
> Thanks


That sounds like plastisol transfers (AKA indirect screen-printing).

For a quantity of 50 I would go with plastisol for sure.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

This is interesting. At what quantities do you print your own transfer? Sorry for asking silly question. I really haven't a clue to this business.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Sam and :welcome: from PA.

You've got great info from Rhonda and JB. One thing I would add is to be careful when putting your transfer paper in the bag so as not to bend them or chip them on the closures at the top of the bag. The coating can chip or be scrapped off, and I have ruined a few designs that way. 

To fix very minor mistakes like that, I use pigment fabric markers to "color" in the area after pressing. For tiny imperfections, they are perfect.

Do you know that JPSS/Jetprosofstretch is for light shirts? You'll have to use an opaque paper for dark shirts, or the plastisol transfers that Rhonda told you about.

Maybe this thread on the different printing methods and why to use on or the other will help you some more. Here is the link:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/general-t-shirt-selling-discussion/t48532.html

Good luck, Sam. Don't worry about the questions, we were all new at some point.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

You guys are fantastic! I know the JPSS is for light T and will be doing just white or grey for now until I build up my skill.

With limited budget, things can have a way of messing up the mind.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> This is interesting. At what quantities do you print your own transfer? Sorry for asking silly question. I really haven't a clue to this business.


I guess I'd say anything over 30ish? It's kind of hard to say ... I started out with an Epson 1280 but have been converting most of my designs over to plastisol because they are easier to deal with than my finicky printer (just my opinion).


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Rhonda, my printers have been getting so difficult to deal with now that they are getting the action they used to. It's driving me nutz. If I were using plastisol... I wouldn't be having any problems at all. Great point, another "score" for plastisols.  - Kelly


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

I have a Epson 1520. What printer problem do you have?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> I have a Epson 1520. What printer problem do you have?


Mostly getting the color correct and consistent. I end up wasting a lot of paper.

I have to do a head cleaning every single time I print ... not a huge deal but Epson Printer Utility crashes after every cleaning (I'm on a Mac).

Yesterday I was trying to print and even though the preview showed the graphic within the print area, the printer would start the top of it half-way down the sheet meaning most of it got cut off.  Never did figure out what was causing that.

That's all I can think of for now, but that's not all of the issues I have had. None of the above seemed so bad until I used plastisol and saw how much time I saved. Not to mention ... NO TRIMMING!!!


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Where do you guys get your custom plastisol made? Is there any in the Atlanta area? I kinda worry about the cutting too. Most of my design are irregular shape and have fine lines.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I'm having issues with banding in the print. On two printers no less. I've wasted alot of ink on cleaning and I've done print alignment until I'm blue in the face. I think I have to print regularrly, to see if I can avoid this again. I cleared up one printer, but used almost all my ink doing it, so I am not thrilled with the cost factor. 

What should be a cheap process gets expensive when you use $20 of ink on one finished image.

Plastisols... no shelf life issue, there when you need it, one-shot Charlie, no trimming. I am starting to see greener grass on the other side....


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Sam we were posting at the same time. Rhonda is in your area, so I'm sure she'll have a great supplier for you, and she's a smart cookie so I'd trust her shopping skills as well. 

Here are two threads you may also find helpful:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-crossover-diary-heat-press-newbie/t13454.html

and

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> What should be a cheap process gets expensive when you use $20 of ink on one finished image.


I feel your pain! This is what I'm worried too. I have the banding problem too. I think if you set your Epson printer to "High quality glossy paper" it will gradually clear up. What I learn is that you have to print regularly no matter what. Hope this help.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Where do you guys get your custom plastisol made? Is there any in the Atlanta area? I kinda worry about the cutting too. Most of my design are irregular shape and have fine lines.


I use F&M Expressions (in NJ) because they do 4-color process plastisols and will let me cram as many designs on a sheet as I can at no extra charge. This way I can print 2 or 3 (sometimes 4) designs for the price of 1 and there are no color limitations. There may be someone in the ATL who does plastisol transfers but I've had great experiences with F&M so I'm stickin' with them.

Oh and I totally forgot to mention the banding problem, Kelly! I have that, too ... but I also don't use my printer on a daily basis (sometimes not even weekly) so I really think a lot of my problems are my own fault.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I know, guys.. and I got away with not printing regularly for a while, but now it has come back to bite me. I don't think I want to be tied to my printer, that is why I don't go CIS, and less do I want to dump funds into it if I don't keep up with it printing everyday. I just bought that cutter, and vinyl and plastisol are really looking attractive. I had no prob with inkjet heat transfers before, bc I printed fairly regularly, but now, with my new routine... I'm seeing some issues.

Thanks, Sam, for the input... I did end up flooding more ink and I think that was part of what helped (I printed on regular paper to save money and when it finally cleared I went to JPSS). Regular printing is def key to good performance. Just remember for printing inkjet heat transfers that too much ink on the paper isn't good with this process.. Less is better. 

I usually print at text/photo with excellent, no run results. I still have the c120 I bought ($36 on epson.com) that I can set up and start printing regularly with.  For what I wasted, it would have been cheaper!


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Kelly, what printer setting do you use for your JPSS transfer? You mention text/photo, there are more setting you can choose like print quality Economy, Standard, High, Best... ..Media Type: Plain Paper, Glossy Film, Photo Quality Paper etc. Any idea which one you use?

Is Teflon sheet thingy important?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I use plain paper, text/photo setting on almost all I print. I manipulate the contrast and bright settings to get more punch when I need it, rather than saturatation. That helps me get the definition I sometimes need but without laying too much ink on the paper. 

I use the teflon sheet. I believe in it. After I press and peel the backing paper, I gently stretch the shirt and re-press the image to get it further in the shirt and reduce any chance of cracking. For this, I use the teflon sheet as well (in addtion to the original press). It has to be kept clean tho, or it can ghost an image from a prior shirt onto the next shirt. Various things are said to be worthy of cleaning them, including 409 and Magic Eraser. Some folks use the wash cloth and water, but that did not work for me at all. If you don't have teflon you can sub parchment paper for the job. Either will keep your upper platen from getting to be a mess if you have a brain freeze and accidentally press something face up once in a while, or if doing a dark paper.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

What happen when the print saturation is high?


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Kelly, do you let your printed transfer dry flat on the table? I have limited space and thinking of hanging it up on the clothes line to dry. Is there a down side to this? Will it ruin the paper?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Sam, early on I read that using extra ink is just an added expense because the ink doesn't "absorb" into the heat transfer paper - rather it sits on top of the polymer coating. So for three reasons, less is better: 1. More ink is just making it a more expensive process because you go thru ink faster with no extra benefit. 2. Sometimes it is reasoned that the extra ink can cause "bleeding" or "running" of the ink because there is too much there. 3. I read a post where the extra ink on Ironall light paper caused the rollers to leave track marks on subsequent papers, and when the person (Lou/Badalou) cut back on ink, it cleared up. I stick with the settings I mentioned and I don't have any problems at all. So I haven't gone and broke the system to test it out... why fix what isn't broken? lol. 

I place my printed sheets all over the place... on shelves, my desk, on top of the shirt stacks on the shelves. If you do go with a clothesline method, seems like you'll be making a pinch at the top of the paper, if you are going to trim that away, it shouldn't be a problem. If you have a full design... how about looking at what photographers use when they do dark room with real chemicals? You know what I mean, when they hang them to dry? I've never seen it look like those prints are pinched at the top by whatever they hang them with. Maybe there are nice padded type of clothes pins out there, that won't damage the print. If you pinch a transfer paper at the top, you run the risk of chipping off the polymer coating. 

Good luck, Sam!


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I would lay them flat and not use a clothes line. I would think that would not be good. .... JB


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi guys, when the transfer dry do they curl up? In the corner maybe?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Sometimes they do, Sam. I don't have much issue with it, only occasionally. My guess as to why leads me to think it in part has to do with the environment you are working in. I don't have much humidity in my work area, it's AC, and my house is fairly dry from forced hot air in the winter. I've read other peeps reports on heat transfer papers curling, and most seem to use the teflon sheet (that what I do if I have any curling) to hold it down, others have used heat tape. There are numerous little ways folks have developed for dealing with it, and for some, it's more common than for others. I seem to be one of the folks in the least problems with it category.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

haha! It didn't occur to me the humidity issue. Thanks for the tip. Whats the heat tape? Is it a must have and when do you use it? Will it leave a "cold" spot on the tranfer where it touches? Does it leave adhesive on the T?

I just order my heat press and a little nervous about screwing up. I have very limited budget.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Heat tape is generally used in vinyl applications, but can be used for many other applications. Doing a search on heat tape will bring you back threads and posts from users of it. The heat tape I am referring to is made for producing shirts. Look up R-tape. That's one of the names I see folks mention, and from there, you'll see the name of the other tape folks compare it to. Also, look on supplier website who supply vinyl products, they'll have this product, the correct one for use with heat presses and fabrics. I don't use it, but will need some soon when I start my vinyl adventures. 

I use the teflon sheet. It has quite a weight to it, and then I can hot peel "immediately" rather than fumble with removing tape while my transfer begins to cool off. Peeling the hotter the better is key when it comes to some of the heat transfer papers, and one is JPSS. 

Once you start digging, it doesn't seem to end, does it? LOL. Have a good one, Sam!


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Yeah. I feel bad asking pretty much the same question. I know when I start using my new heat press I will have more silly question too.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

sam3510 said:


> Yeah. I feel bad asking pretty much the same question. I know when I start using my new heat press I will have more silly question too.


 
No, no, I wasn't remarking on that at all, Sam. I was only saying how with this heat press stuff, once you peel back a layer, you find another layer. I remember when my friend Melissa and I were learning all this stuff (you know Melissa, from the ink thread), we just kept saying to each other "when does it end? when will we find the bottom of most of what there is to know?" Lol, we just kept feeling like each time we asked a Q and got an answer, instead of being done, we ended up with more Q's from the answers. 

Our thread here reminded me back to those times, so if you feel like each Q leads to another, we know how you feel... been there... but it does end for the most part, you get to where most of the mystery is out of the process. It's the little details, and it seems like there are tons of little details, that you have to watch out for. I like to say there are only a few steps to making a great transfer, but a thousand little ways to really screw it up. 

Ask anything you need to, then pass the info on to the next person whereever you find them.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hey Kelly, I wasn't upset just feeling "DUH". Seems like common sense. Everyone in this forum is great. You are great, everyone helping each other...Priceless. I know when I started reading this forum I knew nothing. Now I'm looking forward to do my first press hopefully this week! I will keep you guys posted on my progress. Need some hand holding know what I mean. HaHa.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I sure do. Good luck with the first press, Sam. Don't sweat it like I did, man, I was very nervous. I kept repeating the steps out loud, and I was so nervous, I'd forget which part I was at! lol. Enjoy it, it's so cool to see a shirt go from plain to decorated, and You Did It! We were all practically dancing "oww'ing and ah'ing" at the shirt. Fun stuff. Worth every bit of reading. Best wishes to you!

My next venture is down the vinyl road, and I"m watching threads and reading, watching Youtube, and dealing with more massive input into the brain. I already have a few folks picked for holding my hand, and it's a giant relief to know they are there!
(Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! )


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hey Kelly, can you be my honorable heat press guru? lol


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Hey Sam the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. ..... JB


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for the support dude.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hey did you guys notice I have been promoted to Tshirt lover/Fan! lol.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lol, congrats, Sam, and before you know it YOU will be your own "heat press guru"!!  _Thanks for the chuckle. _


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

A quick question. Can I plug my heat press (Hix Swingman 15x15) into the regular electrical plug?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> A quick question. Can I plug my heat press (Hix Swingman 15x15) into the regular electrical plug?


I have a Hix Presto 15 and I plug it into a regular electrical outlet, so I'm pretty sure you can, too. Just don't use an extension cord with it.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

You have to be careful how many things you plug into outlets on the same circuit. For each outlet, you shouldn't draw more than what it is rated for. We installed a 20 amp heavy duty outlet, dedicated to the press, and my hub ran it directly to a sub panel. 

I know my office is on the same line as the kitchen. We can make toast, run the microwave, and turn on the computer at the same time, but as soon as someone turns on the coffeepot, we're done. So instead of tossing the heat press on that line as well, he ran it's own line for it, we had to. 

Rhonda, this may help you for when you do your shows, but Greyhorsewoman is on the road all the time and she uses a generator and extention cord. It has to be a 20 amp or heavy duty cord rated properly. 
Here's her post: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t40772.html#post240289


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for tip. Now I don't need a fire extinguisher next to the press! You read my mind Kelly. I was wondering what's the electric bill going to be.

My press is coming tomorrow! Yeh!

After reading some "Pressure" thread I'm still not quite sure how to set it. I have not seen my Swingman or a heat press. Do they have numbers or markings? Or just guess? I have read the dollar bill test though.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Sam it shouldn't raise your electric bill a lot..You will get the handle on pressure and temp. I bought a IR temp gun at harbor freight for $39 to help me set my temps. I then made a chart to refer to . ....... JB


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Sam,

Here's a few links for you. The titles don't match what the post is about everytime, but the links will bring you to posts on the subjects we're talking about here. 

Electric Bill: here's a post I wrote in June about my press usage and my electric bill changes:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t50815.html#post300425

Pressure: was just talking with someone last week about setting pressure, which is just like JB is saying, you'll get the feel for it for sure. You will. In my post, I try the best I can to describe for someone "what" I became familiar with as far as the "feel of it". 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t53318.html#post316353

I hope you don't mind the "links", it's kind of easier than writing the whole thing out again, plus we have to watch out for duplicate posting... so the links work well for that.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

My press came this afternoon and the top platen cover was dented..bummer and it touches the heating element. No testing this week. I've contacted Coastal, lets see what happens.
Someone mention in this forum that the manufacturer should have some pressure gauge build in. It seems like a no brainer.
OK, see if I get this right.
1. Do the dollar bill test with the T in place. $$$ should not move right? Should this be consider light, medium or high pressure and start from there. Turn the knob 2 to 3 times more and call it medium?

2. Close the press until there is a slight resistance towards the end. This should be medium?

Anyway I'll be trying to figure this out tonight whit no heat. I'll let you guys know if I'm FEELing it! Haha.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi guys, just try my new press today. The JPSS is pretty easy to print and peel. Haven't wash yet. Color looks good with OEM epson ink. Will likely use refillable ink once it runs out.
I think I burn 4 shirts! Yellow tint around the heat platen area. Use 360, 30 sec, I think i use with heavy pressure. Then try 360, 20sec with less pressure on Jerzee 100 cotton. This time yellowing is less noticeable. Can't be sure. My eyes are playing trick on me. The pressure thing is iffy.

Do you have to adjust everything when using a dif. brand Tshirt?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Sam, what press do you have? That temp is too low to scorch the shirt. That happens more in the neighborhood of 400*+. Sounds kind of like your press is running too hot. 

JPSS presses at 375* for 30 seconds... so something is up. Teflon sheets will prevent the scorching you see, but still, at the temp you wrote, you'd be fine. Try a solution of 50/50 water and hydrogen peroxide to remove the scorch. I hear it works like a charm. (haven't done it myself, but others posted on it as the solution.)

Think about getting an IR gun like one from Harbor Freight. I think they have them on Ebay as well. Something to verify the temp your press is running at. Good luck... as usual.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Howdy Kelly, 
the press is Hix Swingman 15x15. JPSS instruction: 350-365 firm pressure at 20 sec.
There's a few things that cross my mind:
1. New press may need a little time to get seasoned.
2. Heat is not accurate.
3. Jerzee T-shirt could be the problem
4. Parchment paper maybe coursing the yellowing

I did a colored T, as soon as I press the shirt I can see there's a square block with darker shade in the heat platen area but after it cooled its gone! Some black ink bleed on to the heat platen too. I tried to clean it with soap and water but its not working.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Howdy Kelly,
> the press is Hix Swingman 15x15. JPSS instruction: 350-365 firm pressure at 20 sec.
> There's a few things that cross my mind:
> 1. New press may need a little time to get seasoned.
> ...


If it's scorched it will have a shine to it. Slight yellowing on a white shirt is normal, but it will go away. The same goes for the discoloring on the dark shirts – which in my experience is especially noticeable on red, orange, and green shirts. I use Gildan 100% Ultra Cotton shirts and a HIX Presto 15. The parchment paper should not be causing yellowing. Like Kelly suggested, try a Teflon sheet.

Did you try cleaning the ink off the platen while the press is _hot_??? Most people panic and turning off the press but you need to clean it while it's hot. If the ink is still there get some Ez-Off (NOT the oven cleaner!) to clean your press. There are members who sell it. You can do a search for the threads.

Lastly, since you have a HIX the IR gun Kelly mentioned won't work. I found out the hard way by spending $50 on one at Lowes only to learn from the people at HIX that whatever the platen is made of doesn't give accurate readings with infrared thermometers.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for the tips Rhonda. The discoloration is exactly what you describe. I check this morning the slight yellowing on my last white Jerzee T is gone. I guess I freak-out yesterday.

Can you clean the press with just normal laundry detergent when its hot?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Can you clean the press with just normal laundry detergent when its hot?


Ooooo I don't know about that.  I have just used a wet rag in the past with nothing on it besides water and it worked fine. I'd be scared to use any kind of cleaning detergent because it might damage the Teflon coating on the upper platen. Somebody else might be able to answer that question, though.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

I think my press don't have teflon coating. Anyway I'm checking other thread for more info too.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Sam,

The EZ-Off stuff (to clean heat press platens, and like Rhonda said: not the same as the oven cleaner) is usually about $10 shipped. It's not that much $, and folks say it works great to clean the platen. I have it, but haven't cleaned mine off yet... soon, like everything else! 

I remember Rhonda posting the IR gun didn't work for her. (I remember that now, Rhonda. But I can't remember how you did test it... a thread about your hottie lying to you... was that in the lounge?)

Anyway, Sam, I think you need to test your temp or something. First off the directions are weird, so far everyone that I know of, their instructions say 375* for 30 seconds for JPSS, and the low temp you are pressing at shouldn't be causing scorch anyway.

Does it have to do with the Hix, Rhonda? I use the Might Press, and there's nothing on white shirts for me at that temp, or the 375*.

Sam, what shirts are you using? Your Q about changing settings for each diff shirt, no, I don't change for the shirts, only the paper if they have different press temps. 

Will someone let me know what's up with Sam's situation? 1. Sam, why are your instructions different for the JPSS. Does your paper have blue grid on the back and the name JetPro SofStretch? 2. Is it the nature of the Hix to leave the yellow box at such a low temp? 

Thanks guys, I'm just a bit curious to find out why.... -Kelly


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

The instruction was for JPSS from Coastal. The transfer has blue grid with JPSS written on it and I was kinda thinking about this 350-360 for 20 sec. too. No one mention this temp/time in this forum.

I use white Jerzee 100 cotton. I was thinking it could be the new platen has some oil or something for protection.

As for this scorching thingy, how do you tell if it scorched? Rhonda was saying it has a "yellow shine". My shirt has a slight yellowish tint and no shine after pressing. It went away after it cooled.

One thing though, the JPSS has some fiber sticking on to the backing sheet on my color t-shirt. The design looks kind of worn also.

I'll be getting this EZ-off and teflon sheet. Sooner or later I will need it. Is it important to have the teflon pad for the bottom?

Thank


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> I remember Rhonda posting the IR gun didn't work for her. (I remember that now, Rhonda. But I can't remember how you did test it... a thread about your hottie lying to you... was that in the lounge?)


Yeah it was in the lounge because it was silly more than anything.



Girlzndollz said:


> Does it have to do with the Hix, Rhonda? I use the Might Press, and there's nothing on white shirts for me at that temp, or the 375*.


 I don't think so because I press at 400º for 30 seconds!


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## Skf (Dec 5, 2007)

i find pressing at 350 degrees for 23 seconds works best

i have a geo knights press


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Yeah it was in the lounge because it was silly more than anything.


It was very funny, the title definitely caught my attention. 



> I don't think so because I press at 400º for 30 seconds!


Is that what temp you press the JPSS at? About the yellow box, I don't get any yellow box at temps higher than Sam's, and your temp is higher than mine at 400*, so I was just wondering if the yellow thing you and Sam talked about has to do with using a Hix, since you both have the same one. I thought I was reading like that in one of your posts.... I probably read too fast and misinterpreted it. Sorry, nothing against Hix. I just don't get the yellow box at all on white shirts, so I was wondering why you both knew about it. No prob, if Sam's okay with it, I am, too.... Sam, I am.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Sam if you haven't got the EZ-off pm me and I will send some out to you for the shipping cost


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Kelly, good point! Maybe its a Hix thing. I guess the yellow tint spoof me being first time pressing. As long as it goes away I guess its ok. Right? Or I need to call Hix?

I washed the Tshirt today and it turns out fine. No peeling so far or color running. However, the graphic is printed in black only. 

How do you tell if a T is scortch?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

sam3510 said:


> Kelly, good point! Maybe its a Hix thing.


I was wondering that, too, since I think you and Rhonda may have the same machine, and I thought she seemed to understand what you were saying... sometimes things just come with the territory. But Rhonda said she can press at 400* without the scorch, so maybe what you are seeing is something else Rhonda knows about, but it's not scorch...?? ... I think I have no idea, I'm kind of confused at this point... 



> I guess the yellow tint spoof me being first time pressing. As long as it goes away I guess its ok. Right? Or I need to call Hix?


I dunno. I never get a yellowing of any kind. I do get the darker red box when I press red, but that's it. I mainly use white, pink and black shirts, discovered I don't like to work with red, so soon I'll be thru the reds and will drop those.

For you, I suppose if the box goes away before the customer "sees" it, it should be fine, but I'd prefer no box at all if it was me. Ask Rhonda more about it, bc it sounded like she might have understood what it is... but I might have misunderstood her post.. LOL, not being confusing on purpose, Sam... I am just confused why you are getting yellowing. 



> How do you tell if a T is scortch?


Yellowing, or a yellow'ish brownish color where the press touches the shirt, either all over, or in some parts where a press would be running too hot compared to other areas. Think of white bread toasting... anything passed white, it's beginning to scorch (or toast ). Usually occurs with cotton above the 400* mark somewhere... that's what I read anyway...


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

The temporary yellowing that I get is hardly noticeable ... it's like one of those things where you have to squint or look out of the corner of your eye to see it – and it goes away within minutes. Mysterious. 

I think you asked about the pressure previously, Sam. I don't know if all HIX are the same, but I press JPSS on 7.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

I get the same dark "box" when pressing a magenta shirt for my little one. She was not a happy camper. I got my first unhappy customer! Bummer.

Do you gurus think the "Brand" of shirt has anything to do with this? Or it doesn't matter as long as its 100 cotton or 50/50 blend.

Have you guys press any cotton + bamboo blended tshirt?

Rhonda what press do you use? Mine does not have any "number" just a hand tightening screw for pressure.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Probably not so much the brand of shirt as the color. I've tested about 6 different brands in pink, and no issues happened with any box. But red, forget it, big discolored box that does go away, but it's gnarly to see at first. I vote for color as the culprit. I haven't used a variety of brands for red, only pinks, but from what I pick up reading on the forum, it sounds common.

I will add this tidbit of info regarding diff in brands: when I trim JPSS to about 1/8", I barely see the edge on Gildan's 5050 Ultra Blend, notice it alot more on a Hanes Beefy Tee, and never see it - nearly impossible to see - on a Jerzees HW 5050. So I do realize the brand of shirt will make a difference in some things.

I don't know about cotton and bamboo "blends", but Mr. David has heat pressed on bamboo and it sounds like he loves it.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thank you David for your offer. Appreaciate it. You guys rock man!


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi everyone, I wash my t shirt couple of days ago, everything was good except some fiber lifting. Is it a 100% cotton thing? I read your thread, Kelly, on JPSS. Jerzee is awesome, can't see "window" at all but fiber lifting after washing making it look too worn. 20 shirt down the toilet. Another Bummer!

Do you need a business license to have a website selling tshirt? Any suggestion?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Yep, Sam, I think the fiber lifting is a 100% cotton thing, it is another reason I stay with the 50/50's. I wish the Jerzees HW 5050's were a tad bit heavier, bc then they'd be perfect. They hold the color (even with Ironall paper, which is our fadey friend), the window is almost impossible to see when leaving a border of any size, imo... , and there is no fiber lift for me, and that is with beating them up repeatedly in warm water washes, with bleach, dried in a high heat dryer, never turned inside out. Pretty tough shirt and transfer paper combo (JPSS) to beat, if you can deal with the slightly thin feel of the shirt. Oh, and I haven't gotten any piling on the Jerzees the way I have with the Gildan's and Hane's. Just one girls experience for ya! 

I have heard that ironing the shirts will bring back full color to the image, since the color is still there, it's just the fibers lifted giving it the aura of being faded... but I don't really want to have to explain that to a customer. It may work for you, Sam, tho, if you would like to donate those shirts as "new", which they, to at least get a tax break of some sort, and someone without can benefit with something to wear. Just a suggestion if you plan to 86 them.


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

That's a wonderful idea. I probably donate it. I just press 2 shirt for my office this evening and it took me about 1 hr! I was trying not to make mistake but sure enough I did. First I forgot to prepress one shirt then forgot to put on the parchment. I spend so much time adjusting using a ruler to make sure they are straight and center but I did repress after peeling. ANyway the result look great. I hope they don't peel or crack after washing. 
I used Russell Athletic and I don't see the yellowing but cost $5.25! I charge them $12 on this job and mess up 2 11x17 transfer so I guess loose $$ if I figure in the time. The shirt is thick and feels nice. If they want more than I will order from the wholesaler.

What would you recommend if I want a shirt that is thick and does not pill or fiber lifting? I would use Jerzee if it's thicker too.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> I just press 2 shirt for my office this evening and it took me about 1 hr! ... I spend so much time adjusting using a ruler to make sure they are straight and center .....


Don't feel bad, Sam ... I've been doing this for over two years now and it takes me that long, too.  You may want to invest in Lou's Tee Square It.

I don't know what to tell you about the pilling ... I use Gildan Ultra Cotton (2000 & 2000L) and have not had any complaints from customers. I wonder if you're being über-critical of your own product (I am definitely guilty of this).


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

sam3510 said:


> Rhonda what press do you use? Mine does not have any "number" just a hand tightening screw for pressure.


 Oooops I just saw this question! I use the Presto 15 and it has this thing with a lever and notches to adjust pressure. Honestly I don't even know how to describe it, so I might have to take a picture.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Sorry, Sam, I don't know what to recommend. Just yesterday I was just in the store and came across a nice thick Jerzees, and the tag said Jerzees High Cotton, so I thought I'd give that a test if I can find it. I don't know why the Jerzees behave so well. Outside of being thin, they are awesome. I guess a test on the Jerzees line would do the trick, but I'm into vinyl and rhinestone research myself. No worries about color retention with those processes. 

I'll check my Gildans and Hanes Beefy Tee to see which is holding up better.... but.... like Rhonda said, we might be holding the bar extra high, I'm also guilty of trying to get the bar as high as possible. There are many many forum members using Hane's Beefy tees. Sam, if you do a search on "hanes beefy tee" I'll bet you will bring back threads about folks saying what they like about the beefy tees and what they instead of the hanes beefy tee. I think I remember the Jerzees 18 oz being one alternative folks liked better. There are opinions and alternatives on the forum for a good quality tee to use.

The other thing is, like Rhonda said, try to find something that will help you line up the transfer. 
Heres a link to a thread on alignment:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t54474.html#post323449


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Kelly, the ruler I was using is Fringe Cut from Walmart ($17) which was what you use in your thread. Great minds think alike! Haha.

Maybe the our standard is a little high. There are so many things I need to learn sometimes it's frustrating, Cotton vs 5050, comb count and weight. All these are alien to me. I really admire all you guys. How do you tell what is what? Is it stated in the tag?

(leaving a border of any size, imo...) Kelly, What is IMO? Sorry no comprando. lol.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

imo, means in my opinion, and if you see someone use imho, that's in my humble opinion...

I saw Jerzees High Cotton on the neck tag at the store. For me to find it, I figured I'd go to my suppliers site and look it up. 

It takes a little time, Sam, but once you are up and running, it really gets so much easier. It's like anything else, learning and taking in alll the info is the rough part, once you're rolling, it's great. I hate learning anything new these days. Once I realized I wanted a cutter, I rolled my eyes like this  and asked myself, why not stay with heat transfer paper, you know that now... haha, but I told myself, nope, must try this wonderful stuff called glitter vinyl... so now I am swimming in confusion again. But it will get better, as I move on and get used to the products and lingo, and the best part is, I am not alone. This great forum lets me have access to great folks that are so kind to help me out when I am lost and get stuck in my progress, just look at my 'thanks' count. It's zooming now that I am asking vinyl Q's - lol. So just keep plugging away, Sam, it'll get easier, for both of us, I promise!


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## sam3510 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hello guys, I tested and wash some shirts. My design is a black/white graphic. After washing I noticed that there are a couple of faint black spots on area close to the design. It looks like the black may have transfered during washing. I hope I'm describing correctly. It happen on 2 shirts. Does anyone know what causes this? Also what is a cold spot and what are the visible sign? Does it cause the transfer to peel?


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