# Designer T shirts and Streetwear Brands



## UnorthodoxDesign (Mar 7, 2007)

Hello My question is pretty simple. I am wondering if there are any members from this board that have started a streetwear brand or sold designer t shirts to boutiques? If so did u ever put out t shirts using heat transfer designs but not with plastisol inks. I am wondering if anyone used inkjet,vinyl,flock, metalic or any other specialty heat transfer paper? I know the industry standard is screen printing but i have heat transfer equipment and i have made some really nice t shirts and hoodies before with heat transfer materials only. I have friends that tell me to start a small line and get the brand out there using what i have and then expand into other printing methods. Most people buy a t shirt cause the like the print or design or brand not because it was screen printed only. What do other members of this board think?


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

If the printing is done properly and the quality is there, I don't see a problem with using vinyl, flock or whatever for a boutique.

Everything in stores is not screen printed, but I would venture to say the majority is. 

Just make sure the quality is there with whichever method you go with.


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## UnorthodoxDesign (Mar 7, 2007)

I must admit although i feel the same way you do Rodney i wasn't really sure with out some feedback. Thanks for being bold enough to give my question a response like that because there is deff. a stigma regarding heat transfer vs. screen printing and i think its a bit unfair when they both go hand in hand when it comes to eaches purpose. My purpose is to design and print as many t shirts as i possibly can on those billions of blank t shirts out there waiting for some love!


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## jimhack3 (Jan 23, 2007)

I was thinking the same thing UnorthodoxDesign , I'm a screen-printer, and I used to screen print all of my designs. I noticed that some of my screen-printed t-shirts weren't selling, so I just bought a 16 X 20 Hix swingaway 20D with the hopes that I can sell, online, t-shirts as orders come in. That way I don't have all of that inventory sitting in my garage.

My concern was with the quality, and longevity of the heat transfer. I will probably incorporate different types of decorative applications, some that I had no experience with as a screen-printer, such as Flocking, The large particuliar glitter, and reflective Inks, and maybe aftr som experience, sublimation graphics.



Peace,
Jim


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## UnorthodoxDesign (Mar 7, 2007)

I have a 16x20 knight swing heat press for about 2 years its great. I have tried many different transfer methods but never sublimation. I heard the cost for sublimation inks is way to high for profit. I almost bought a printer and inkflow set up for it 2 years ago as well but the sales person talked me out of it. It can only print on part synthetic shirts but the cost for inks is way to high for t shirt printing. He told me the strenghts of the pigment inks i was using and told me they would last longer than dyes. I told him my feelings about inkjet printing and my concearns about how the transfers look different after the first wash. He gave me some good advice next he said to water down vinegar in a spray bottle and spray over my design area before the first wash to set the picture to the shirt with loner lasting qualities. Also he said by adding that process to all my shirts they will have been washed allready and the shirt dose not look different for the buyer after their first wash. This was all in the first 2 weeks of my t shirt printing beginer days and i was happy to speak to that guy for sure.I don't allways use ink jet prints on my shirt but nobody ever complains and the soft hand effect resembles screenprinting if you trim off the borders close to your design. The longer you spend doing that the less tranfer paper will show up on the shirt. Plastisol transfers work great but i am starting my own screen printing experiments to see if i can do more of the work myself. I also have a vinyl cutter and i have cut vinyl, flock, matalic, foil, etc. with that it's fantastic. Over the last 2 years i have experimented with dying, bleaching,and also used the bedazzler stud and rhinestone setting machine(very economical machinery)!!!! During this time i owned and operated 2 small home use embroidery machines as well but i bought those used at wholesale price for the intention of selling on ebay for profit. Those machines were great but i only got to use each for about 2 months a total of 4 months before i listed and sold them. I wish i had them now i may have doubled my money on them but they were fun to work with. This site is helping me to step my game up and focus on other areas i knew nothing about. I thought for having no formal training i was doing ok but then i found the t shirt fourms and i realized that there were so many different areas to t shirt printing for profit
that i overlooked or just plain never considered. I cant get enough of these forums!


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## teeoff (Feb 28, 2007)

I was also unsure about the heat transfer but after seeing the quality product offered in the market and through trial and error, I decided on the heat transfer method as well. The color comes out great. I outsource the custom transfers. There are different processes which will allow you to offer the handfeel you want - soft vs. rubbery. Lots of luck


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## Platinum-Ink (Nov 27, 2007)

There are so many types of heat-applied vinyls you can use which I find work great. Just be sure to ask the supplier from where you buy the vinyls from to give you applying instructions if you decide to change vinyl types to be sure you are using the correct pressure, temperature, and time. You also want to be sure you are aware whether the vinyl is a hot or cold peel product. I am a Screenprinter/Graphic Designer/Make Custom Vinyls/ and Clothing label owner and I like to do mixed media pieces to change up designs and give them uniqueness. ThermoCut is a type of heat applied material which is similar to a transfer but is a one color sheet of plastisol spread super thin which you cut your design out of (in reverse) and apply. This works great for sleeves, hoodies, or small touches you may want to add to a screenprinted or embroidered item..or by itself. (Transfer: 7 sec @ 350 deg. F, Pressure: Medium). I recommend trying this out if you haven't yet... it is a cold peel item as well. (ThermoCut Supplier). I have never had an issue with heat applied material wearing or peeling and sometimes prefer this technique for certain designs. I would say I use vinyl 15-20% of the time but is by no means limiting in any way. If you get an order for a shirt design that is very detailed, you may want to consider screenprinting for sure as it would be much more time and cost effective. The time to weed out designs can be the biggest question of whether it's worth it or not to use a heat applied material. A recommendation for some starters to possibly take into consideration is to find a place (in which there are many) to screen print your designs onto transfer paper (design would be printed in reverse order and mirrored) and you can just heat the design onto the tee when it is ordered. There is a fine line between the texture of a plastisol transfer and a directly screenprinted design. There are many ways to get your design onto apparel and different materials are worth testing... you'll never know what you may find or come across accidently. good luck with everything!


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## jimhack3 (Jan 23, 2007)

I purchased hot split plastisol heat transfers from aet, and The instructions said that to heat the transfer to 350-375 degrees, and set the press to med. pressure for 8-10 seconds, and then peel hot in a smooth even motion. I tried the instructions that were given, and the transfer peeled off when I attempted to remove the transfer paper, so I increases the temp to 385, and held for 12 seconds. I also hit It again afterwards with a 5 sec. press with my teflon sheet, and It still peeled off after a few washings. I'm using 100% cotton black tees.

When I washed the t-shirt fot the fourth time some of the transfer peeled off. Is there anyone that had this problem before. I call the manufacturer before for making these transfers improperly, and It has been a couple of months since I talked to them. I don't think that the transfers are two old yet, are they?

I want to start a web tee shirt business, but I'm afraid that my customers after washing the shirt a few times the transfer will peel off.

Thanks for any feed back.


All the Best,
Jim


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## Artsy_Marissa (Nov 17, 2007)

UnorthodoxDesign said:


> Hello My question is pretty simple. I am wondering if there are any members from this board that have started a streetwear brand or sold designer t shirts to boutiques? If so did u ever put out t shirts using heat transfer designs but not with plastisol inks. I am wondering if anyone used inkjet,vinyl,flock, metalic or any other specialty heat transfer paper? I know the industry standard is screen printing but i have heat transfer equipment and i have made some really nice t shirts and hoodies before with heat transfer materials only. I have friends that tell me to start a small line and get the brand out there using what i have and then expand into other printing methods. Most people buy a t shirt cause the like the print or design or brand not because it was screen printed only. What do other members of this board think?


That is what i do. I focus mainly on children's boutique though. I am not interest in branching out as I am busy enough with word of mouth custom orders!!!


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## amv101 (Jul 16, 2007)

I also run a few lines and have done almost every type of printing process. It is true that most people buy a t-shirt for the design itself. The average consumer has no concept on what types of printing methods are available. Nor do they really care what kind of shirt it is, or the "hand" or feeling of the print. If you are retailing your garments, this is especially true. I find it a bit different when you are printing for a customer, they seem a bit more concerned over the process than the quality of the design itself.

Kinda like the paint on your car. Most people that buy cars couldnt tell you one paint job from another. But if you are in the car paint business, I am sure you over critique the whole job.

Ive seen screen print jobs that look like crap and some look great, I have seen transfer jobs that look like crap and some great, I have seen DTG jobs that look like crap and some look great. Put all 3 great jobs side by side and they all look great, with the same characteristics.

Most people getting into these businesses are obvoiusly on a budget and are swayed by the other people who are also on a budget. So generally the equipment and materials used are on the low end of the spectrum. Big companies that turn around 100 thousand shirts a month, use all 3 methods and all make long lasting, durable prints. But these guys generally dont hand out information, and there equipment costs 15x as much.

Order of importance, in my experience, according to the client;

1. quality of design creativity (how well the design looks)
2. retail price for retail, cost of production for wholesale
3. how it fits on the client
4. quality of durability or washfastness
5. feel or "hand" of design
6. type of garment used, 50/50, combed cotton, 100%

Most people see the design before anything... like walking through a store, you stop and look because of the design... most people then look at the price tag. Then if its in the range, they want to try it on.

Put a stick figure on a $6 American Apparel shirt, printed with a $175k Kornit DTG machine, with custom labels..... and then put a sweet design on a $1.50 Gildan shirt made with a $1 transfer and place both in front of 10 customers and you will see what I mean.


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## Platinum-Ink (Nov 27, 2007)

jimhack3 said:


> I purchased hot split plastisol heat transfers from aet, and The instructions said that to heat the transfer to 350-375 degrees, and set the press to med. pressure for 8-10 seconds, and then peel hot in a smooth even motion. I tried the instructions that were given, and the transfer peeled off when I attempted to remove the transfer paper, so I increases the temp to 385, and held for 12 seconds. I also hit It again afterwards with a 5 sec. press with my teflon sheet, and It still peeled off after a few washings. I'm using 100% cotton black tees.
> 
> When I washed the t-shirt fot the fourth time some of the transfer peeled off. Is there anyone that had this problem before. I call the manufacturer before for making these transfers improperly, and It has been a couple of months since I talked to them. I don't think that the transfers are two old yet, are they?
> 
> ...


 
I would definately recommend heating the transfer for 7-10 sec @ 350 deg. F with medium pressure and lightly rubbing the design after it is off the press with a cloth or shirt until it's fully cooled. Then peel slowly starting from a corner. If you have a design where there are any points or sharp corners, I personally prefer to peel toward the point, not starting from the point since that's the least amount of area for the design to grip (don't make it the main stress point when picking backing off). When it comes to this sort of transfer, I wouldn't re-heat it afterwards. Wash in cool water inside out (for all vinyl designs...works out better). Good Luck.


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