# How to Make your own Plastisol Transfers



## Titere

*PLEASE NOTE:* No, you can't print plastisol transfers from a home printer. You need screen printing equipment to print plastisol transfers 

* This article is more for someone who is already doing screen printing* directly onto t-shirts and has the equipment already to do screen printing.

* Plastisol transfers are not something that comes from an inkjet or laser printer or something that is done at home*. 

Normally, when people need plastisol transfers, they outsource them to a company that does transfer printing. Here's a list:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html
​
I have read some threads were forum members ask about making Plastisol Transfers. 
This is a very easy thing to do and does not differ much of doing it directly to the shirt. Only a few different steps. 
I prepared a graphic with the steps and a few images to explain how this works. 
Read it and you will be doing plastisol transfer in no time.










If you dont understand something, ask me, I will be glad to explain.

Important notes:
• Plastisol Transfers work great with Union Ink Ultra Soft Plus Inks, this are the ones I use and I have had no problems. Regular plastisol inks dont work. I dont know what other inks will work, if anybody knows, post it here.
• You might clean the base plate after you make the registration with the adhesive tape (step 7).
• Multi color designs can also be printed with this method.
• Dont forget to use adhesive spray to hold paper in place.
• Dry paper using conveyor dryer or spot dryer, using a heat gun is ok too, but heat might not be uniform trought the paper.
• This is obvious but just in case, place printed side facing shirt and back of paper facing the heat press.
• I have used yellow, blue and green over dark shirts and I didnt need a white basecoat.

I hope to be helpful!


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## T-BOT

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*

thanks.
it is easy.


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## Titere

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*



T-BOT said:


> thanks.
> it is easy.


Told you! Your welcome T Bot


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## ShirtHappens

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*

May be interested in doing some of these in the future when I develop the fundmentals.Thanks for sharing this tutorial.


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## Solmu

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*

Step 5 (printing onto the platen) is unnecessary, and a bad practice in my opinion. You can easily register the paper with tape as in step seven without messing up your platen.


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## Greg Hamrick

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*

I agree with Lewis on that #5 deal. I've made transfers and that is a no-no. And if your not going to use a vacuum platen to hold the paper down, get some unilan powder or something esle for transfers to take the tack off the paper: if you use sticky to hold it in place for multi-colors. If you don't, the paper will stick to the print.

.


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## Titere

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*



Solmu said:


> Step 5 (printing onto the platen) is unnecessary, and a bad practice in my opinion. You can easily register the paper with tape as in step seven without messing up your platen.


You are right Solmu, I agree with you as I dont print on the platten anymore, as it is not hard to do it as you say, but I did it like that at the beginning and I thought that is the easiest way to explain it to peole that has never done it, anyways they were going to figure it out just as I did. 
Thanx for posting and keep the comments and suggestions, me and other forum members will be thankful for it!


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## Rizzo

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*

Hey Joe,

Tks man, I am one of those people who posted about wanting to know of Plastisol prints, Appreciate it alot.

Cheers,
Rizzo


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## TrancerRaver

Thanks for the info on how to make plastisol transfers Titere! I have a couple questions

1. What is the best way to "gel" the transfer

2. Is it possible to use, say, Duracotten HT transfer paper so you don't have to cut around your transfer? (I will be starting with 1 color Tee's if anyone has any suggestions)

Thanks again for the post (I was beginning to think the plastisol process was a big secret!)


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## Solmu

TrancerRaver said:


> 2. Is it possible to use, say, Duracotten HT transfer paper so you don't have to cut around your transfer?


You don't have to cut around plastisol transfers.

(I think the step in the above instructions was probably just to make it easier to line up the transfer on the shirt)


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## Charms4all

Very interesting.. Might be what i need to do for my project.. But I must be lame I cant seem to find that paper.. what is it called.. would any paper work??
thanks for the tips!


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## Rodney

Charms4all said:


> Very interesting.. Might be what i need to do for my project.. But I must be lame I cant seem to find that paper.. what is it called.. would any paper work??
> thanks for the tips!


You can find the paper for screen printing heat transfers on here: Screen Printable Heat Transfer Paper


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## DCdouble

So does anyone know what the best way to gel the ink? Also, how thick should the ink be on the paper?


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## Liberty

DCdouble said:


> So does anyone know what the best way to gel the ink? Also, how thick should the ink be on the paper?


The best way to "cure the ink is a conveyor dryer. Be careful not to over or under cure, especially on the subsequent passes through the dryer for multi-color transfers.

The thichness of the ink is determined by the thichness of the emulsion on the screen and the type of ink being used. All of the ink manufacturers will give you their specs for mesh count, stencil thickness, cure temp. Combine that with a little experimentation.

If you're making multi-color plastisol transfers, one crucial step taht was left out is to run the paper through the dryer first to preshrink the paper before printing the first color. Most transfer papers will shrink a little, enough to cause registration issues.

Also, there are different papers for hot peel and cold peel transfers.

And there are several adhesive powders available that are great for decreasing dwell time when printing and increasing the opacity of the inks.


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## lealynn26

after reading the threads, can you tell me if you can dry the transfer paper with a flash dryer?


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## WearSuccor

Hey there, is there anyone who has made a visual tutorial for making plastisol transfers? I can read all day but unless I see this done I don't fully understand...

Thanks,

Tom


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## Rodney

WearSuccor said:


> Hey there, is there anyone who has made a visual tutorial for making plastisol transfers? I can read all day but unless I see this done I don't fully understand...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom


You may find some visual tutorials in older issues of the print magazines like impressionsmag.com or on the screenprinters.net website.


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## TAGR

hi.
Can you do the plastisol printing thing from a home based business?


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## Rodney

TAGR said:


> hi.
> Can you do the plastisol printing thing from a home based business?


If you have a screen printing setup you can. But if you have a screen printing setup, then you can just screen print the plastisol directly on the t-shirts and you don't really need to do transfers.

If you don't have a screen printing setup, then you can just outsource the plastisol transfers (which is what most people do) to a company that does that type of printing. You send them your design, they print the transfers and send you the transfer sheets for you to heat press at home:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html

This thread is an article for people who are already screen printing and they want to add plastisol transfers to their existing business.


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## karlking85

Wow, this is very useful. Thanks Titere!


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## IdleMedia

Thanks, this was extremely useful. As I posted in another thread before I was pointed here:



> I ask because we have the opportunity to get our hands on some good screening equipment cheap.
> 
> Now we wouldn't want to bust out the ink and screens everyday when orders come in because it would be a nightmare and a mess -- so what I'm thinking is screen them onto transfer paper, store, transfer later.
> 
> That way transfers can be made maybe once per week and quickly used when needed. Does this make sense to do? Is it worth it when the numbers come down to it? Anyone have experience/links? I'll continue searching, but figured I'd tack onto this thread.


Now obviously there will be some trial and error in the beginning, but looking at the cost of the sheets this would be MUCH cheaper than outsourcing the creation of the transfers.


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## jaggraphics

What if i am doing several colors. Can we flash between colors? Also, is there a clear gel that goes on as the last coat. I had ordered some transfers and they had a glossy look on the back side before applying. What degree does my dryer have to be on and for how many seconds does it dry go through at that temp?


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## IdleMedia

jaggraphics said:


> What if i am doing several colors. Can we flash between colors? Also, is there a clear gel that goes on as the last coat. I had ordered some transfers and they had a glossy look on the back side before applying. What degree does my dryer have to be on and for how many seconds does it dry go through at that temp?


Check out this article:
Printing Plastisol Transfers


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## simonb

hi I am very interested in any additional information that you may be able to send in addition to this post. Is there any way to orint these transfers from your own office printer ( I have only done a few hours of research on this topic and greatly appreciate any input at this time. thanks so much.


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## Rodney

simonb said:


> hi I am very interested in any additional information that you may be able to send in addition to this post. Is there any way to orint these transfers from your own office printer ( I have only done a few hours of research on this topic and greatly appreciate any input at this time. thanks so much.


No, you can't print them from a home printer. You need screen printing equipment to print plastisol transfers.

This article is more for someone who is already doing screen printing directly onto t-shirts and has the equipment already to do screen printing.

Plastisol transfers are not something that comes from an inkjet or laser printer or something that is done at home. 

Normally, when people need plastisol transfers, they outsource them to a company that does transfer printing. Here's a list:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html


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## smurf1

hi quick question i have a epson r1800 can iuse this printer to use that paper if not what do i need thanks


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## Rodney

smurf1 said:


> hi quick question i have a epson r1800 can iuse this printer to use that paper if not what do i need thanks


Please read the post right above yours  You can't print plastisol transfers with your own home printer.


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## Scrnprntmom

We've run into a little problem printing our homemade plastisol transfers on dark shirts. We created a gold transfer, went through all the appropriate steps, and heat-pressed it. It worked out beautifully except that we see a "haze" around the image from the powder. Hadn't noticed this before when we printed on dark mesh basketball jerseys, but it's quite obvious on the black tees. Too much powder?? Any suggestions?


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## Its Written Tees

THANK YOU SO MUCH, for that clarification!


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## kinyemi

hi guys,
I was just wondering what mesh number you normally use when doing detailed designs with plastisol inks?
thanks
jeff


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## MaxieGarb

If anyone is interested I make 1000's of plastisol transfers on a simple home made vacuum table.
I took a piece of plywood with formica and drilled small holes in a pattern the size of my paper. (looks like the grid on Coreldraw) I then put the sheet of wood on frame, can be a wooden silk screen frame, and put another piece of plywood on the base (without holes). In the base or from the side, drill a hole and connect a household vacuum cleaner. This will hold the paper down. You can put tape over the holes if you have smaller paper.
On the board with the holes put hinges with clamps (available from silk screen supplies and you have a simple vacuum table.
For one color designs I buy paper from a bakery supply, they have paper that stops the cakes sticking to the pan. It has a silicone coating and it's really cheap. You don't need transfer paper for one color designs.
I run the sheets through my oven on a low temp or very fast so the ink gells. You can also use a flash.
I usually use powder adhesive (I use Union) to improve the adhesion. You put this powder in a tray a slide the printed paper over it, ink side down and then shake the excess glue off.
Simple and cheap and works really well.


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## MaxieGarb

If anyone is interested I make 1000's of plastisol transfers on a simple home made vacuum table.
I took a piece of plywood with formica and drilled small holes in a pattern the size of my paper. (looks like the grid on Coreldraw) I then put the sheet of wood on frame, can be a wooden silk screen frame, and put another piece of plywood on the base (without holes). In the base or from the side, drill a hole and connect a household vacuum cleaner. This will hold the paper down. You can put tape over the holes if you have smaller paper.
On the board with the holes put hinges with clamps (available from silk screen supplies and you have a simple vacuum table.
For one color designs I buy paper from a bakery supply, they have paper that stops the cakes sticking to the pan. It has a silicone coating and it's really cheap. You don't need transfer paper for one color designs.
I run the sheets through my oven on a low temp or very fast so the ink gells. You can also use a flash.
I usually use powder adhesive (I use Union) to improve the adhesion. You put this powder in a tray a slide the printed paper over it, ink side down and then shake the excess glue off.
Simple and cheap and works really well.
I use 110 mesh and whatever ink I would use for direct printing. For dark opaque.


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## remidemic

*can the plastisol transfers be stored?*

once the plastisol is printed on the transfer paper and the powder is sprinkled, whats the shelf life of the plastisol transfer? will it stick if placed in a stack of plastisol transfers?


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## MaxieGarb

I've never really tested it but old transfer I have lying around still work well.


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## fadzuli

hmm does that mean i can jus send my designs to any screen printer with transfer paper and have them do it for me?

if yes, wat do i need to tell them when placing an order? is there any special inks that they need to use?


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## Rodney

fadzuli said:


> hmm does that mean i can jus send my designs to any screen printer with transfer paper and have them do it for me?
> 
> if yes, wat do i need to tell them when placing an order? is there any special inks that they need to use?


No, not every screen printer can print plastisol transfers. You can find the link to the list of screen printers who can right in the first post of this thread.

The screen printer would need to be setup to print these kinds of transfers. Not all printers will do it.


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## fadzuli

thanks rodney, the problem with the list is that its all not in the APAC region. i was hoping to get a printer closer to home. I know that they do international shipping. jus wanted to reduce the downtime as well. 

but thanks again for the insight. =)


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## Rodney

fadzuli said:


> thanks rodney, the problem with the list is that its all not in the APAC region. i was hoping to get a printer closer to home. I know that they do international shipping. jus wanted to reduce the downtime as well.
> 
> but thanks again for the insight. =)


Well, you didn't mention where you were from, so I couldn't give you suggestions closer to your home


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## fadzuli

opps im from singapore. =)


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## image designer

That was very interesting thanks for your support


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## printing40years

yes, you can dry the paper with a flash cure unit. You are just trying to get any moisture that the paper has absorbed from the surrounding air since it was manufactured. If you don't plan on using all that cured paper right away, a tip is to put it in a ziplock bag to keep it from absorbing moisture from the air overnight....or saran wrap. Good luck.

Bryant


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## printing40years

If you want to eliminate that messy powdered adhesive, and you still want maximum adhesion especially to mesh fabric, all you need to do is print clear plastisol ( plastisol with no pigment, not soft hand additive) as the last color down covering the entire design. Plastisol acts as an adhesive. The thicker the deposit the more ink there is to melt down into the fibers and hold onto the shirt tightly for dozens of wash cycles.

Bryant


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## able

can you show me the video?
tank's b4


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## garybt

How many coats of emulsion do you need to build up a decent ink well?


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## ims

Scrnprntmom said:


> We've run into a little problem printing our homemade plastisol transfers on dark shirts. We created a gold transfer, went through all the appropriate steps, and heat-pressed it. It worked out beautifully except that we see a "haze" around the image from the powder. Hadn't noticed this before when we printed on dark mesh basketball jerseys, but it's quite obvious on the black tees. Too much powder?? Any suggestions?



I'd like to here what people say about this question. it seems it was skipped. and never answered. I myself ran into this problem. I do hats. when heat press is used on black hats. i see a film haze around the image.


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## ims

i guess no one can answer my question, fast above


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## ims

Titere,

I am printing plastisol transfers at home w/ screen printing equipment . but I'm getting a haze around the image. I have a complete setup for screen printing here at my house. i run a business @ HOME in an extra bedroom

I love how people think you can't do things at home. that you need to be high tech, with a SHOP.


anyone, please reply. or i'll start another forum for this problem


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## cycocyco

I have a few questions:


1) does regular plastisol work? (I'm using Wilflex MP inks and additives)
2) after sprinkling transfer powder on the print, how do I prepare sheets for transport? ie. How do I ship 20 of these to a client through the mail?

If someone has any tips in general, I'd like to hear them before I ruin a bunch of transfer paper.


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## printing40years

Just carefully stack them and sandwich them between two rigid sheets of cardboard slightly larger and taped together all around then insert into a plastic bag and seal it. Yes most any MP plastisols work. Some have more stretch than others and others are specifiacally designed for nylon material as opposed to cotton/poly. Read the manufacturer tech sheet for that ink online and see if it is recommended for transfers as well as direct printing to be safe. Some low bleed inks get too brittle to transfer ot harden up over time. Plan on a one year shelf life for most transfers.


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## mgatechcameroon

seriwiz said:


> Just carefully stack them and sandwich them between two rigid sheets of cardboard slightly larger and taped together all around then insert into a plastic bag and seal it. Yes most any MP plastisols work. Some have more stretch than others and others are specifiacally designed for nylon material as opposed to cotton/poly. Read the manufacturer tech sheet for that ink online and see if it is recommended for transfers as well as direct printing to be safe. Some low bleed inks get too brittle to transfer ot harden up over time. Plan on a one year shelf life for most transfers.



hello there i normally use a gell like adhesive not powder and then after printing i flash and pack them like ordinary paper, note flashing is to let an ink half dry but it will ttransfer okay. contact ryonet coperation they sell very good adhesive for transfer printing.


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## TshirtGuru

mgatechcameroon said:


> hello there i normally use a gell like adhesive not powder and then after printing i flash and pack them like ordinary paper, note flashing is to let an ink half dry but it will ttransfer okay. contact ryonet coperation they sell very good adhesive for transfer printing.


Is there a specific reason you use the gel instead of powder?


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## printing40years

Yes you can use a flash unit if you like. All you are doing is conditioning the paper so it is stable and doesn't shrink or swell on you due to the moisture content. Paper absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. After you condition it , then you need to put it all in a big ziplock to keep the moisture content at one level throughout the entire print run. 

Other plastisols work....I like International Coatings Multipurpose MP inks because they stretch enough for transfers and can be printed directly onto tees as well. The color range available is awesome. 562-926-9486


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## jackiebell

I was told the adhesive powder is only necessary on cold peel transfers. I stopped using it on the hot peel and they are working fine without it. I found it actually made the paper difficult to peel if you didn't peel it immediately.


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## jackiebell

Oh and Union Ink makes an ink line specifically for transfers that I think is far more opaque than the other colors I've used. They recommend no higher than 80 mesh screens also.


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## jimmi

*Re: Make your own Plastisol Transfers*



Titere said:


> Told you! Your welcome T Bot


Hi Titere,
Thanks for the valuable info. What circumstances that people do plastisol transfer where it can be done direct to the t shirt?

Jimmi


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## jackiebell

I personally make them for jobs that I know will repeat in the not so distant future, because once they are printed, they are a lot easier to use on a repeat order than setting the press up again. Another job I used them on was for porthole practice jerseys. If I printed them on the press, the ink would end up all over the platen when it went through the holes in the garment. On a heat press, you can just put a used transfer paper under the holes to catch the ink that flows through. It also worked on a job I did with mesh shorts. The lining in the shorts would have made it impossible to keep still on the platen, unless I bought a hold down maybe, but on the heat press, it was really easy to apply the transfers. I also silkscreen small items on a regular basis for a crafter and I can just replace what they sell easily. I'm sure I'll find more uses for them. I am also thinking I may be able to sell them to a local repro center that only has a heat press. I need to perfect them before I try that, though.


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## cmyk

i just did my first plastisol transfers this afternoon! 
i combined what i read here with some info i found on youtube and the result is very good.

i used ordinary plastisol ink without any special powder, printed on a piece of suport paper from self-adhesive vinyl (oracal, avery, any piece of paper with a very glossy surface will work, i believe).
then i flashed the ink with my heat gun then pressed it wit the cap heat press on a baseball cap.
medium-high pressure, 25 sec, 180-190 degrees Celsius (i believe about 380 Fahrenheit), and i peel the paper after 3-4 seconds.
again - the result is very good and it seems to hold on ok. 
thanks everybody for the info!


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## sjidohair

I have heard that you can but only to gel state,, do not let it dry,, 
please correct me if i am wrong , good to see ya Joe,, 
Sandy jo
MMM


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## jackiebell

Someone asked me for some tips, so...I am by no means an expert, but I'll tell you what I do know so far...keep in mind, I have only made one and two color hot split to date. If anyone disagrees or has additional info, feel free. Some of this is already covered above. 

Screens: Use 80 mesh and set your graphics up a bit thicker/fatter than usual. For multiple colors, you'll want a good amount of trap. I use .035 if I can get it. You want a nice amount of ink, especially for hot split. Burn the image mirrored. 

Vacuum platen/table: While this is supposedly a must from anyone you ask, I have found it possible to make one color transfers without it, if your off contact and print stroke are perfect. I would also recommend it though, as it is way easier. For 2/c+ transfers, it is a must.

Paper: I use AceTransCo paper. Far superior than others I've tried. 

Ink: Union ink makes a really good transfer specific line of ink, but other plastisols work also. I did find this weekend though that some very high viscosity inks require an extender base. I'm looking into that more. I would suggest you read up on any ink you plan to use that is not specifically for transfers.

Position: If making more than single color transfers, you'll need to set up a template to position the paper for subsequent prints. I use a thick masking tape line to position the paper in the same place every time. 

Curing: I have a Vastex Econo Red II, I set it at the lowest position, temp at 550, belt speed at 40. You want to gel the ink as you would for flashing. I gave up testing temperature, I just test to see that the print is a bit tacky but does not come off on your finger. This part you may need to play with a bit. For single colors, that's it. For multiple colors, you should put the paper through the dryer before printing because it always shrinks some. By doing this, you are pre-shrinking it so you have a better chance of getting that second hit to line up. I print a t-shirt first to make sure my registration is perfect before I move to the paper. This way you alleviate that issue if your registration is off. I have found humid conditions make the shrinkage unbearable. This good paper helps a lot, but it's still tougher. You print, throw it in the dryer, let it cool a bit, then print your second hit. As I said, I have only done 2/c so far, so I don't know more about additional hits, but so far I have not had to speed up the dryer for the second print.

Pressing: I always test press my first sheet before I go whole hog printing sheets. You want to make sure it's going to actually transfer before wasting all that time, ink and paper. I have a Hotronix and set it at 350, 5 seconds, medium pressure. Peel right away.


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## funkymunky

Ok guy's, i've been very quiet on the forums for a little while now as I too have been learning this 'plastisol transfer' business.
I managed to purchase a poster screen printing hand bench with a vaccum bed very reasonably earlier this summer
A small problem I have come up against is that I have not purchased a conveyor drier so I am 'flashing' my transfers with a heat-gun. This gives inconsistancy with the cure, some are over-cured some under.
I decided the best way to battle this was to use powder adhesive, really just to give me confidence that the transfer would adhere well to the garment on the heat press.
I am using Union Inks Unilon 2159. I started by sprinkling my (wet) transfers with the powder then shaking off the excess powder then curing with the heat-gun. This is where the problem came, whilst curing with the heat-gun some of the glue particles were melting to the transfer paper which cannot be shifted. This gives an terrible result when you press your transfer onto your shirt!
I have combated this by now adding the adhesive at a ratio of 10-15% directly to my plastisol ink.
By doing this it has made the process much less messy and a whole lot quicker. I have deliberately 'over-cured' my transfers and they still adhere well to the garment, thanks to the adhesive powder.
I hope this helps.

Phil


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## printsolutions

Hi,
just a few tips, instead of printing onto platen, as in first post, tape a piece of acetate or clear film onto platen along top edge so it is hinged by the tape. Pull a Print onto this film, and slide your transfer paper under film and into position. Use taped on tabs of card for register guides. This allows accurate register on multicolour jobs to be accomplished and is more forgiving of irregularities on the edge of transfer paper, I frequently produce four colour process decals in this way. Remove acetate once position is ascertained. Repeat for subsequent colours with a clean acetate(film), pull a print onto acetate and sliding previously printed transfer sheet under film manouever it into position. This is made easier if a rule is taped to transfer sheet to manouever it into position under the film without having to lift the film. This method is common practice for setup on a screen printing hand table and allows setup with minimal waste. Also when Using plastisol, the film is easily cleaned of with white spirit (MINERAL SPIRIT)for re use.
A cheaper alternative to a tunnel dryer is a thermography machine, frequently seen on ebay not attracting much interest, which is effectively a small flash dryer over a metal wire conveyor. I use an old adana version for precisely this purpose and it works very well. This provides a much more uniform heat than a heat gun and reduces risk of scorching sheet.
Printed transfers can be stored, or shipped, interleaved with kitchen grease proof paper, or waxed paper. 
Finally a cheap vacuum base can be made by affixing a melamine board onto an old aluminium screen frame front and back, with mastic. Place a piece of graph paper onto top board for drilling template and drill through with .3mm or .5mm drill. Use an old cylinder vacuum cleaner as vacuum pump, with a simple slide valve arrangement underneath, to allow vacuum to be released between prints. I can post pictures or plans of this home made arrangement, (my decal table), if anyone is interested.
Hope this helps.


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## firepower

Hi does anyone use a temp gun to cure plastisols? Just curious because say if you cure to 350 then maybe it would stand to reason that for transfers you would let it hit 175 or something for this? Also only union ultra softs? Nothing else works right????
And do you put the powder on the paper then print or on the print to go between it and the fabric? I was thinking aboiut doing this for hats and maybe brand size labels, so would it be a good idea to print 10 or 20 at a time? I know this is a really old thread but I need to revive it...need info! 

Thanks in advance!


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## naqa23

I was wondering if you could use a heat press to cure plastisol transfers. I have a Geo Knight Swing press and it would be the same distance as a flash dryer. Thanks


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## clubfred

great post


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## tozier9

I am having trouble with this. I am doing some test prints to try and figure this out. I have a screen with 156 mesh, international coatings plastisol. I printed on hot peel transfer paper. Flashed it for a few seconds, then added adhesive powder, then pressed at 350 for 10 seconds. The ink is sticking to the paper too much. I tried it at 15 seconds and still the same thing. I pull up on the heat press and try to pull it right away. Some of the plastisol goes on the shirt and some sticks on the paper. Any ideas???


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## tozier9

Got it working. I was using the inkjet transfer paper we had and not the plastisol premium stuff. 

One question

I tried it without flashing before pressing and it worked fine. Is there a need to do the quick flash if you are going to be pressing immediately? Reason we are doing it instead of directly on the garment is we are adding some text to a shirt that we already printed. So we want to line them all up so there is no variation.


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## puzzleswithout

Read through this thread but did not see anything about separating colors for plastisol transfers? With screen printing, obviously each color requires its own screen. Does plastisol transfers work in the same manner or can all colors be printed onto one transfer from a single screen?


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## splathead

puzzleswithout said:


> Read through this thread but did not see anything about separating colors for plastisol transfers? With screen printing, obviously each color requires its own screen. Does plastisol transfers work in the same manner or can all colors be printed onto one transfer from a single screen?


All other normal screen printing rules apply. You need a separate screen for each color.


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## aplusbowling

naqa23 said:


> I was wondering if you could use a heat press to cure plastisol transfers. I have a Geo Knight Swing press and it would be the same distance as a flash dryer. Thanks


I've wondered about this also. I remember reading an article (maybe by Scott Fresener?) talking about possibly using a heat press to gel the transfer. I'd like to give it a try, but I haven't had the time yet. Anyone else try this?

Also, what does the adhesive powder do? I use Union Ultra Soft plastisol ink. I also purchased some of the transfer paper that Valley Litho sells. Would I still need the adhesive powder?


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## EVLIND

aplusbowling said:


> I've wondered about this also. I remember reading an article (maybe by Scott Fresener?) talking about possibly using a heat press to gel the transfer. I'd like to give it a try, but I haven't had the time yet. Anyone else try this?
> 
> Also, what does the adhesive powder do? I use Union Ultra Soft plastisol ink. I also purchased some of the transfer paper that Valley Litho sells. Would I still need the adhesive powder?



Yes Adhesive powder is needed.


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## BroJames

What is the real purpose of the adhesive powder? I've tried some without them and they seem fine. Have also tried "substitutes". Just not sure of doing it that way on a bigger scale.


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## jackiebell

I have also had luck without adhesive powder. I have gotten a lot of random information on adhesive powder - use if for this ink but not that, with this paper but not that one, only for cold peel...but at the end of the day, it cannot HURT your transfers as far as I can tell and I always prefer to err on the side of caution, so I use it for all of them now and have had great results. It's relatively inexpensive and lasts a long time, so why not?


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## BroJames

Yes, but it is also nice to know why. In general, erring on the side of caution is prudent. But if we understand the main reason and under what circumstances the adhesive can be done without then that would be nice. Like some people using dye inks on JPSS transfers but not others. And one screen less would be better for productivity first and cost maybe only second. No matter how small it is a penny saved is a penny earned. That is if we can really do without the adhesive and not just being reckless about it. 

I do understand that the adhesive is to help the ink adhere to the fabric better. I do understand it much better for waterbased transfers. I am still pretty much playing around with plastisol transfers and if I go commercial right now, I would also like to err on the side of caution. But I am itching to know if it is something that can be done without with plastisol.


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## pbj

Okay, one thing I haven't seen and no one I've asked has answered, what is the step-by-step, cook book recipe method for printing multicolor transfers. Even in this article Printing Plastisol Transfers, there's not a print the first color, flash, print the second color, etc...

Can someone fill in the blanks for me?


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## splathead

pbj said:


> Okay, one thing I haven't seen and no one I've asked has answered, what is the step-by-step, cook book recipe method for printing multicolor transfers. Even in this article Printing Plastisol Transfers, there's not a print the first color, flash, print the second color, etc...


You do need to semi-cure (flash in your case) each color separately. You also want to flash heat the paper prior to printing the first color. Paper shrinks when heated and if you don't do this your colors won't line up.


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## pbj

splathead said:


> You do need to semi-cure (flash in your case) each color separately. You also want to flash heat the paper prior to printing the first color. Paper shrinks when heated and if you don't do this your colors won't line up.



So basically, I would print, flash, print, sprinkle cure for a two color transfer?

Preheat my paper to maintain a semblance of registration.

Anything else?


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## jwaldmann

Could someone please help me with these answers...


1) At what temperature and pressure do you gel-cure the transfer on a heat press and for about how long...?

2) With a heat press- do you want the upper platen to touch the transfer when gel-curing or do you want to have a distance from the upper platen and the transfer sheet.

3) How many passes with the emulsion do I do and what side of the coater do I use... SHARP or Round, 1 and 1 or 2 and 2 passes.


When I am doing this, not all of the ink is leaving the transfer sheet. I have a 1 pass/1pass 156 mesh with Union ultrasoft ink. I gel-cure with adhesion powder at 220 F for 8 seconds (it peels off in one piece if I try to pull it off the paper). Then I press onto garment at 355 for 10 seconds.

This should be simple...what am I doing wrong..

Please email me at jonatha[email protected] if you think you can help me because I really need some help.


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## zebredee

thanks guys


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## bruhl69

Is ther a good Screen printing setup you can buy on the market that is reasonably priced?


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## infopub

Depends on what are you going to do with it. If you are going to print transfers, all you really need is a one color on station press. About all of the screen print suppliers have them.


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## valleyboy_1

yes I agree. I'm looking into buying a 1 color 1 station vacuum press. Workhorse has one, as well as ASC365.com has one. i'm curious to see if Flash gelling would work with plastisol transfers.


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## infopub

valleyboy_1 said:


> yes I agree. I'm looking into buying a 1 color 1 station vacuum press. Workhorse has one, as well as ASC365.com has one. i'm curious to see if Flash gelling would work with plastisol transfers.


It will work, just get yourself one of those laser thermometers to check your temp. I am using a conveyer dryer, I gel my transfer as close to 240 as I can, I read some where to gel between 240 and 280. Check out the videos on youtube.

I am trying to work up the nerve to try multi-colors. I am thinking of trying my flash to gel between colors.

I love doing transfers, I don't think I will ever direct print to garments again. I think it is much easier to print on paper than on garments. If you mess up, you've only lost a sheet of paper.


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## apeman77

Hello Titere,
Can you please send me the graphic described in this post? I couldn't find it anywhere.

Kind thanks,
apeman77


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## Crazy Tharun

apeman77 said:


> Hello Titere,
> Can you please send me the graphic described in this post? I couldn't find it anywhere.
> 
> Kind thanks,
> apeman77




yes Jake you are right, even I couldn't find it in this thread. so I request Titere or Rodney to post that that tutorial which is removed from this thread....


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## cmc123

We tried making transfers for the first time and sold at least 200 of them. 1st mistake we made was not testing the product first. As now we are getting calls that the first wash the transfer is peeling off. The adhesion powder is staying on the shirt. The plastisol is sticking together. But the adhesion powder is not sticking to the plastisol to keep it on the shirt. Major fail.

1. Would you have something sent out to all the coaches to have them contact us so we can replace them.
2. Should I buy professional transfers to fix or should we just screen each one as we get the list.
3. Why did it happen and can we do better in future?

This is my first post ever as I usually find what I need so I would attach a pic if I knew how.

Thanks so much for help


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## selanac

Cami, I would think they're not heat pressing with enough heat and pressure. If you're putting the adhesive powder, that enough. 

Someone else asked about what they need to do. They said Print flash print. With transfers, you need a vacuum platen or your sheet may come up and stick to the screen.


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## wjyong678

It's very useful for newer ,good article !


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## Obertor

I can't seem to figure out how to read the article..

Am I missing something?


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## selanac

Start at page 1 and read through page 6.


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## 42Razorgator79

Thank you.


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## Rohit2020

Titere said:


> ​*PLEASE NOTE:* No, you can't print plastisol transfers from a home printer. You need screen printing equipment to print plastisol transfers ​​* This article is more for someone who is already doing screen printing* directly onto t-shirts and has the equipment already to do screen printing.​​* Plastisol transfers are not something that comes from an inkjet or laser printer or something that is done at home*.​​Normally, when people need plastisol transfers, they outsource them to a company that does transfer printing. Here's a list:​​http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html​​​
> I have read some threads were forum members ask about making Plastisol Transfers.
> This is a very easy thing to do and does not differ much of doing it directly to the shirt. Only a few different steps.
> I prepared a graphic with the steps and a few images to explain how this works.
> Read it and you will be doing plastisol transfer in no time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you dont understand something, ask me, I will be glad to explain.
> 
> Important notes:
> • Plastisol Transfers work great with Union Ink Ultra Soft Plus Inks, this are the ones I use and I have had no problems. Regular plastisol inks dont work. I dont know what other inks will work, if anybody knows, post it here.
> • You might clean the base plate after you make the registration with the adhesive tape (step 7).
> • Multi color designs can also be printed with this method.
> • Dont forget to use adhesive spray to hold paper in place.
> • Dry paper using conveyor dryer or spot dryer, using a heat gun is ok too, but heat might not be uniform trought the paper.
> • This is obvious but just in case, place printed side facing shirt and back of paper facing the heat press.
> • I have used yellow, blue and green over dark shirts and I didnt need a white basecoat.
> 
> I hope to be helpful!


Can you please share the process ..
I am not able to see that...how to make multicolor plastisol transfers


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## splathead

Rohit2020 said:


> Can you please share the process ..
> I am not able to see that...how to make multicolor plastisol transfers


Here is an excellent video from Ryonet


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## Rohit2020

Titere said:


> ​*PLEASE NOTE:* No, you can't print plastisol transfers from a home printer. You need screen printing equipment to print plastisol transfers ​​* This article is more for someone who is already doing screen printing* directly onto t-shirts and has the equipment already to do screen printing.​​* Plastisol transfers are not something that comes from an inkjet or laser printer or something that is done at home*.​​Normally, when people need plastisol transfers, they outsource them to a company that does transfer printing. Here's a list:​​http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t4095.html​​​
> I have read some threads were forum members ask about making Plastisol Transfers.
> This is a very easy thing to do and does not differ much of doing it directly to the shirt. Only a few different steps.
> I prepared a graphic with the steps and a few images to explain how this works.
> Read it and you will be doing plastisol transfer in no time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you dont understand something, ask me, I will be glad to explain.
> 
> Important notes:
> • Plastisol Transfers work great with Union Ink Ultra Soft Plus Inks, this are the ones I use and I have had no problems. Regular plastisol inks dont work. I dont know what other inks will work, if anybody knows, post it here.
> • You might clean the base plate after you make the registration with the adhesive tape (step 7).
> • Multi color designs can also be printed with this method.
> • Dont forget to use adhesive spray to hold paper in place.
> • Dry paper using conveyor dryer or spot dryer, using a heat gun is ok too, but heat might not be uniform trought the paper.
> • This is obvious but just in case, place printed side facing shirt and back of paper facing the heat press.
> • I have used yellow, blue and green over dark shirts and I didnt need a white basecoat.
> 
> I hope to be helpful!


WHERE ARE THE STEPS ?


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## Rohit2020

splathead said:


> Here is an excellent video from Ryonet


But I need to make multicolour transfer , with ink jet printer and then how can we coat it with white plastisol ? to make it appear on Black coloraturas !! please help


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## DrivingZiggy

Rohit2020 said:


> But I need to make multicolour transfer , with ink jet printer and then how can we coat it with white plastisol ? to make it appear on Black coloraturas !! please help


See, the thing is that you're asking for a process that does not exist. If you insist on using your ink jet printer, then you'll need a product such as 3G Jet Opaque. Or the even harder to use white toner process.


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## splathead

Rohit2020 said:


> But I need to make multicolour transfer , with ink jet printer and then how can we coat it with white plastisol ? to make it appear on Black coloraturas !! please help


Plastisol transfers are not made with inkjet printers. So you first need to decide what you want; plastisol transfers or inkjet transfers? If plastisol, see the video I posted above. If inkjet, see Ziggy's post above or look into something this: were is DTF Printing forum posts?.


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