# Images are blurry



## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Lines in print and spots*

I am new to sublimation and I recently purchased the following

Richo 3110DN Printer
Sublijet R Inks
GeoKnight Heat Press 

And I am trying to print on iPhone cases and the images are not transferring correctly it looks almost distorted and blurry

[media]http://imageshack.com/a/img855/1994/d36k.jpg[/media]

I printed this at 400 F and for 45 secs with medium to high pressure( I also tried reducing the pressure which made it worse) I tried leaving it in for longer for about 1 min but still came out blurry

I made sure I printed on the right side of the paper and I also removed the film

I tried pressing with the aluminium facing up and tried with the aluminum facing down, if anyone has any tips and tricks please help me out here

I adjusted the pressure and am getting my images with lines and some spots, does anyone have any tips? I am also using one sheet of sub paper on the bottom and two on the top

http://imageshack.com/a/img34/7160/inqy.jpg


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Are you quickly removing the paper after you open the press?


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

I did take it off in that pic so I adjust my pressure I reduced it a bit and now I got it too look a lot better but still seeing some dots and lines 

So this was at 1 minute and 400 F

[media]http://imageshack.com/a/img34/7160/inqy.jpg[/media]

should I lower the pressure some more or increase it?


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## vladislav (Feb 22, 2014)

Decrease the temperature to somewhere between 375 and 385 and decrease the pressure a tad also. I get this same problem with the thinner aluminum substrates.


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## DKgrafix (Aug 13, 2008)

400 degrees, 40 seconds, very light pressure.

Perfect each time. Pretty much the same set-up except that I have Ricoh 7100.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

DKgrafix said:


> 400 degrees, 40 seconds, very light pressure.
> 
> Perfect each time. Pretty much the same set-up except that I have Ricoh 7100.


Agreed.

Some inserts, like dynasub, are light [email protected] degrees (f)-40/45 seconds and some inserts, like chromaluxe, are medium [email protected] degrees (f)-40/45 seconds.

So basically, lighten up the pressure.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Could be a profile issue.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

I've tried light pressure but it doesn't transfer the image very well I've tried lowering the temps and increasing the heat press time and still nothing. It seems as though the image transfers better with medium to high pressure at 400F for a min, this is what I'm getting now on blacks 

[media]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f171/azokaei/615E0792-0A4D-433D-96DC-CE46D45A07E5.jpg[/media]

Somone please help me figure this out lol I've already burned through 70 cases trying to dial this in

my vendor also recommended 330F and 3 mins, which i've tried as well with little luck


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

Where are you getting your inserts from?... Are they Unisub?
Are you removing the protective plastic from the insert?
Have you tried Chromaluxe inserts?

Unisub and cheaper (china) type inserts usually leave some sort of light spoting. Kind of looks like water spots. Very light but still visible at an angle.

Chromaluxe inserts have a thicker coating and look a lot more professional and leave a clean and clear surface after pressing. [Not available for all phone cases though.]

And you know you can buy extra inserts for testing, right? I usually buy triple the extra inserts in case something goes wrong or just for testing. That way you don't use the inserts that usually come with the case. I just say this because you mentioned you've burned through 70 cases.

Can you post better pictures of your issue so we can see a bit better?


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

They are from China they aren't Unisub cases, I am removing the plastic and yeah I am trying to take a picture of the cases so right now I got the color to transfer better just getting orange peel at 400F and 50 seconds

Should I lower the temperature?


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

Lower to 390 but the coating may be bad.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

It's weird because when I lower the pressure the orange peel isn't as bad but I get spots and the image doesn't come out good 

Could it be due to the pressure of the heat press


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> It's weird because when I lower the pressure the orange peel isn't as bad but I get spots and the image doesn't come out good
> 
> Could it be due to the pressure of the heat press


Like previously posted, you shouldn't need much pressure because the aluminum itself gets extremely hot. So light to medium pressure should suffice.

Not sure how you're going about your pressure. If your press has a digital screen that shows your pressure (like 1, 2, 3, etc.)... DON'T GO BY THAT. Not unless you've calibrated it already. For starters, light pressure is being able to close the press with one hand. Medium pressure is being able to close the press with two hands. If you have to use a lot of force, like putting your upper weight on it, then you are putting way too much pressure.

Waiting on better images from you.....


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

You just have crap from china . Inserts are cheap in the USA. Try them and report back.


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

When I'm doing aluminum as soon as I open the press I toss them print and all into a bowl of tepid water. It stops the printing right away and keeps the dye from migrating. You might want to lessen the time too.

One other thing, instead of going through all your samples, you can reprint them. You'll end up with 2 images instead of one but you'll save samples and you can still see if the print comes out right or not.


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

The spotting is typically caused by moisture that is trapped in metals that have a softer coating (non-Unisub metals). Try sandwiching it between two paper towels (good quality and smooth, not cheap ones with rigid patterns) and pressing it face down. The paper towels absorb the moisture that steams out while pressing and prevents the spotting or hazy look. We recommend this on the Dynasub and Supermetals and it works very well. Try 390 for 45-50 seconds. This moisture could also be causing your dyes to migrate which could be the root cause of the blurriness.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

The main problem I'm having is the spotty transfer when I loose the pressure once i increase it it will get an orange peel effect


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

I would typically recommend a light to medium pressure for the softer coated metals. Have you tried another metal to verify that it's not the quality of the coating?


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I have not I will be ordering some metals today what brand do you guys recommend?


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

The Unisub is the highest quality but also the most expensive. The Dynasub is more cost effective but you can still get really nice results with it.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

So I tried decreasing the temp to 350 and 3 mins medium pressure and this is what I got


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

jpkyle said:


> The spotting is typically caused by moisture that is trapped in metals that have a softer coating (non-Unisub metals). Try sandwiching it between two paper towels (good quality and smooth, not cheap ones with rigid patterns) and pressing it face down. The paper towels absorb the moisture that steams out while pressing and prevents the spotting or hazy look. We recommend this on the Dynasub and Supermetals and it works very well. Try 390 for 45-50 seconds. This moisture could also be causing your dyes to migrate which could be the root cause of the blurriness.


Order them from Kyle.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> I have not I will be ordering some metals today what brand do you guys recommend?


Chromaluxe (unisub) gives the best quality. If you can find those inserts for the cases you want to offer, I'd go with that.

I saw your recent images and that's how my Dynasub inserts come out (no matter what I do). I even see the faint spots as soon as I take off the protective plastic (cleaning it doesn't help). On mine, you can only really tell when looking at an angle but it's not too bad and I have only received good compliments when doing cases with Dynasub inserts. Not the best but still produce acceptable quality.

Choose Chromaluxe and you can't go wrong. 

Attached is a closeup of a case I did yesterday using Chromaluxe (Unisub).

Hopefully your new inserts will do you right this time.


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

WZ is right. The Chromaluxe inserts will give you the best results with the least amount of headaches. As far as phone inserts the price is still very reasonable (about $4 for case and insert) and leaves you a nice profit margin ($20-$30 retail).


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I'm going to order some chroma luxe and dynasub inserts today and see how it goes 

Also for the dynasub what's the difference between the gold, satin, and white ?


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

Within the Dynasub the difference is just the color and finish. Quality is the same across the board.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I tried last night using different paper that I bought from dyemasters and it looked really grainy and it seemed thicker then the other paper I was using could the paper be the issue as well?


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I tried last night using different paper that I bought from dyemasters and it looked really grainy and it seemed thicker then the other paper I was using could the paper be the issue as well?


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

It's a possibility. I'm not familiar with their paper but there are certain papers that don't dry as quickly. It's best to use a paper that dries faster with the Ricoh printers for the best results.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> I'm going to order some chroma luxe and dynasub inserts today and see how it goes
> 
> Also for the dynasub what's the difference between the gold, satin, and white ?


White backgrounds, such as most of the substrates we use, give us that missing color. Since sublimation doesn't have opaque colors and can't produce white, we use items (substrates) with white backgrounds to give us that full and bright image.

So on the gold, satin silver and clear, wherever there is white in your image, it will be replaced with either gold, satin silver or clear (brushed aluminum). Gold can give a picture and old timey look and clear is good for black/white images. They are actually quite nice.

I personally haven't used the satin silver yet but I'm assuming that wherever there is white in your image, it will be replaced as satin silver.

All of my gold and clear inserts have been with customer's kids, so I can't really post them here unless I get their permission first.

I would stick with White if you're doing just basic images. Maybe get a few of the others just to test out.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

Should be arriving tomorrow I changed the paper and got some decent colored colored ones but now im getting some bleeding 

Hopefully it's just the aluminum back plates, thank you guys so much for your help I will let you guys know how the new aluminum plates turns out


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

So I got the dynasub and it's a lot better then the Chinese inserts but I'm still getting some slight spotting


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

What settings did you use? Did you try the paper towels?


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I did it at 385-390 for 1 minute light pressure


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

Try backing off the time to 45-50 seconds and sandwich it with paper towels.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

I am going to try it right now, should I have one paper towel on top and one on bottom


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

Yes and press it face down.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

It made it worse, switch backed to paper any other suggestions? The colored images are turning out decent only the blacks seem to be getting the spots


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

You can try pre drying the transfer. It may be the paper you are using.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I tried 3 different papers I switch to text print r paper which seemed to help a bit


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## jpkyle (Jan 31, 2014)

Our 31 lb. bond paper works very well with Dynasub metal. Or you may want to just give the Chromaluxe inserts a try. They are more forgiving.


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

Here are a few images I took to show the difference between Dynasub and Unisub (Chromaluxe), at least from the aluminum inserts that I get. These particular inserts came from Conde.

I'll show you the spots before pressing (after taking off the protective plastic covering). You can see right outside the light reflection, faint spots on the Dynasub.

I'll show you the thickness between each. Chromaluxe is thicker, hence, the slightly higher temp. And the coating is thicker, hence, the smooth photo finish of the final product.

And I'll show you the final product. The clearness of Chromaluxe vs spottiness on the Dynasub (not as bad as the picture shows it).

Chromaluxe wins in all categories lol.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

Did you end up getting any spots with the dynasubs? What configuration did you use as well


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> Did you end up getting any spots with the dynasubs? What configuration did you use as well


Yes. View the images I posted above. The final product image, you can see them. The Chromaluxe leaves a smooth finish all the time (at least so far with what I've done). The image for the Dynasub looks bad in the image but in-person, it's not THAT bad unless you are looking at it at an angle or looking for perfection.

As far as configurations:

Dynasub:
385 degrees (f); 45-50 seconds; light pressure

Chromaluxe:
400 degrees (f); 45-50 seconds; medium pressure

For both inserts (bottom/up):
protective paper (blank newsprint, butcher paper, etc...);
metal insert - image side facing up with image print-out facing down on top;
protective paper (blank newsprint, butcher paper, etc...)

Light pressure:
I am able to close the press easily with one hand.

Medium pressure:
I am able to close the press easily with two hands. Just to the point enough to where I can't close it with one hand.

Although your definition of "pressure" may be different from mine. The press I did this test on was the DK20S.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

Perfect thank you for going the extra mile to help me out brother I'm going to use the dynasub for colored images and the chromaluxe for my black background images, I got some on the way right now


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> Perfect thank you for going the extra mile to help me out brother I'm going to use the dynasub for colored images and the chromaluxe for my black background images, I got some on the way right now


No problem. And remember to make sure that the cases you are wanting to sell, come with both inserts, if that's what you're wanting to do because not all Chromaluxe inserts are made for every case. At least from what I've seen some cases only have Dynasub inserts.

Good luck!


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

On darker colors this what I'm dealing with









This is at 390 and 50 seconds light pressure , should I increase the time?or is it a pressure issue


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I've tried everything could it be a problem with the heat press?


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## WalkingZombie (Mar 15, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*



azums said:


> On darker colors this what I'm dealing with
> 
> This is at 390 and 50 seconds light pressure , should I increase the time?or is it a pressure issue


Not sure what I'm looking at. Image is too small.

If it's the spottiness, yes, I have that issue on dark (blacks/grays) colors too for the Dynasub inserts. Although, it really isn't that bad in-person, at least the ones that I do.


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## DKgrafix (Aug 13, 2008)

Lower the time. No need for more than 40 sec.
You might be overcooking the black.

Also, check your heat press, maybe your temperature is out of calibration


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

I just got off the phone with a vendor and he suggested around 370-375 and 60-70 seconds I am going to be giving his a shot when I get home


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

Still no luck with the blacks hopefully I'll have some luck with the Chromaluxe inserts. I am still getting horrible results with the black cases, really bad spotty images where it looks like the black didn't full transfer in certain spots it looks horrible I know the dynasub inserts will have a little more of an orange peel but there has to be something I am doing wrong, how am I suppose to do custom images such as photos with the dynasub's?

Could this be an issue with the heat press I am using? the Geo knight Jet Press 12


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## brinked (Mar 21, 2010)

azums you might not ever be able to fix this issue. The problem with softer coated aluminum such as dynasub is the coating absorbs the paper fibers which is what the orange peel is.

With blacks its the most noticeable. If you dont apply enough heat/pressure then you wont get a clean transfer and there will be ink voids. If you apply enough heat and pressure, even if you apply just the right amount to get a full transfer of the ink, you will get some of the paper fibers along with it.

You dont notice this on colored transfers because the spotting isnt noticeable like it is whites. Everyone here who uses dynasub will experience the same exact issue you are with the black background.


try light even pressure 380 degrees for 40 seconds. Aluminum face down into the transfer. You can also try using a paper towel instead of blowout paper, this is popular with dynasub


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

The Geo knight jet press 12 9 x 12 swing away heat press


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## brinked (Mar 21, 2010)

sorry, corrected my post after you replied. Read my updated reply above.


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## brinked (Mar 21, 2010)

I am actually facing a similar issue as well. I have purchased some texprint high release in hopes that it will require less pressure/heat and release the ink without getting the paper fibers.

So maybe you can try a different paper as well. If your paper is cheap that might be the problem.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

Okay guys so I figured that I would never get the clean transfer on the black backgrounds and I'm using ChromaLuxe inserts now to see if I can get a good black transfer and still no go I'm using TexPrint R paper as well

I learned my lesson very early with cheap paper lol

I am pressing at 400F and 1 Min any suggestions?


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## brinked (Mar 21, 2010)

did you remove the protective coating?

Are you applying as much pressure as you can? Chromaluxe requires a lot of pressure.

If you are still not getting good transfers try increasing dwell time. Otherwise it might be that your press is displaying inaccurate temp.

Give georgeknight a call...Aaron is VERY helpful and stands behind all his products.


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## azums (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Lines in print and spots*

The chromaluxe I got from Conde didn't have protective coating in it I tried to peel it off for like 10 mins til I figured that out but I I did try increasing the temp cause I thought the gauge was off which it seems like it is by 10 degrees I also increased the tome to 1 mins 5 seconds and still nothing


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## brinked (Mar 21, 2010)

What problem are you experiencing with the chromaluxe inserts?


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## tlab (Jun 8, 2014)

Hi... recently i have this issue with my final printing.. after the heat press, the visual is blurry. like pixelated. never had this issue before until recently.

anyone knows whats the issue?


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

Could be too little, too much pressure; heat too high; too long a press time; didn't cool off fast enough (I usually dunk solid substrates in tepid water immediately after removing from the press.

It could also be a bad printing surface or worse a plastic covering on the substrate that needs to be removed prior to pressing.


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