# A4 Tees



## lkt1954 (Nov 15, 2009)

We just got asked to bid on 125- 100% poly tees for a local football team and as we all know bids can be crazy.

In the past we have used badger for our poly tees and with this being a bid I went looking for something less expensive. I found the A4 cooling performance crew which is 100% performance poly interlocking.

Has anyone used these with either sublimation or plastisol transfers? We have used plastisol on the badgers and had great results.

These are white tees and we are leaning to sublimation on them instead of plastisol. We have done sublimation on plaques, cups, etc but no shirts as we can only print 8" x 11" sheets. Can anyone give me some advise on where to get good sublimation transfers 11" 13" and some tips on pressing so we don't ruin any shirt?

Thanks
Larry


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Larry, I think A 4Is one of the worst T shirt companies to deal with. The shirts require you to insert craft paper so the print does not go thru.


Look at Augusta or c2 from S&S. The best is Monag at $4 each ask for AMIT and feel free to use my screen name SKDAVE.


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## JMA44 (Sep 9, 2012)

Larry, I just completed a weekend baseball tournament and I used C2sport from S&S and Sport Tek from Sanmar, both 100% polyester in white & silver. I recently started buying my transfers from skdave above. Get in touch with him as he has a good grip on sublimation. I did a few dye subs that I offered as an up sale and had great results with both of these shirts. I got a little bleed through on one of the Sport Tek whites but I corrected it. As for ruining the shirt you have to play with it a little. I have a 16x20 hotronix maxx and I used very light pressure at 385 degrees and 40-45 seconds. This worked for me and had minimal heat press marks. I set up an account with Monag but haven't bought them yet. I will post a few pics later of the Sport Tek I did today.


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## ZO6 KLR (Jan 8, 2013)

skdave said:


> The shirts require you to insert craft paper so the print does not go thru.


Dave, I know of not one shirt that does not require a piece of protection paper inside the shirt to prevent bleeding. Monag, Vapor and any other Poly shirt I've used requires it.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

ZO6 KLR said:


> Dave, I know of not one shirt that does not require a piece of protection paper inside the shirt to prevent bleeding. Monag, Vapor and any other Poly shirt I've used requires it.


Many do not We print 100's everyday without inserting paper. I would not buy a shirt that requred inserts.


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## ZO6 KLR (Jan 8, 2013)

Dave, when you print a high contrasting black and white image on one side, you don't use any paper? Are the Monags produced in a way that they do not need the bleed paper? I haven't printed one without the bleed paper so if what you are saying is true, it would definitely save me a ton of prep time.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

ZO6 KLR said:


> Dave, when you print a high contrasting black and white image on one side, you don't use any paper? Are the Monags produced in a way that they do not need the bleed paper? I haven't printed one without the bleed paper so if what you are saying is true, it would definitely save me a ton of prep time.


 
That's correct Monags do not require inserts. Many other don't as well.


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## JMA44 (Sep 9, 2012)

Here is a pic of the white Sport Tek I did on Sunday. I pressed this at 385 deg, 43 seconds and very very light pressure. I also experimented and pressed this outside in 90 plus degree heat with very high humidity and no paper inserts. I had 2 shirts bleed a little but hardly noticeable. I just played with the heat & pressure.


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## Riph (Jan 11, 2011)

In another thread I stated that I had used A4 n3142 shirts successfully, but on my last batch, I had problems. I had shirts from Mexico that worked fine, but the ones made in another country (which I can't remember now) scorched badly.


At this point, the only colored shirts I will sell are Vapor Apparel. In white, there are quite a few good choices.


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

A4 will get you sooner or later. Not the best company to work with, IMO.


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## Tallyplayer (Aug 10, 2010)

San Mar has been so incredible to work with I have not even looked at other companies. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using T-Shirt Forums


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## livedog3030 (Jun 3, 2013)

Augusta -790 i believe.....around $3.75 ea i think


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## ZO6 KLR (Jan 8, 2013)

Dave, I printed a front design today on a Monag (hard contrast lines of blue and red) and it did in fact leave some bleed on the inside of the back side. Not much but it is there. I think that if one was doing a print on front and back there would be no issue. Maybe a lighter pressure may help. Will have to experiment. Would definitely cut down on the prep time considerably.


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## lkt1954 (Nov 15, 2009)

skdave- just finished a 100+ c2 sport tees with your dye sub transfers and only had 2 shirts bleed through thanks to you taking time to discuss how to correct the problem over the phone. We took your advise on correcting the bleeding and all went great. Great product & great service.

One parting question. How well will the dye sub transfers hold up to multiple washings? A couple of coaches are looking at 100% poly tees that they can number for their athletics daily work out wear, so they will get washed everyday. Tried plastisol and it faded after about 15 washes. Thinking of dye sub. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Larry


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## HeadhunterX (Oct 23, 2007)

lkt1954 said:


> We took your advise on correcting the bleeding and all went great.
> Thanks
> Larry


 
Share what you did to stop the Bleeding...

Thanks


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## lkt1954 (Nov 15, 2009)

Took the temperature down 5 degrees and the pressure down 5 psi and increased dwell by 5 seconds. These were from original settings on Daves website.


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## cornpopps (Jan 8, 2010)

Just to add to the thread I have used Augusta and Badger with success, bummer to hear about A4. I noticed the statements about using inserts but what I do to save some time and not have to use an insert is thread my shirt on the platen. No bleed and no insert. Did I mention I hate inserts


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## uncletee (Feb 25, 2007)

When I was playing football! and someone would have giving me a A4 with sublimation print I would be very happy. one of the best sublimation shirts and It feels like your wearing air-conditioning. my opinion, and the price is great! just find a few different distributors so you can fill your order! good luck uncletee.


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## ZO6 KLR (Jan 8, 2013)

cornpopps said:


> I noticed the statements about using inserts but what I do to save some time and not have to use an insert is thread my shirt on the platen. No bleed and no insert. Did I mention I hate inserts


We do this on our fusion. Can't thread onto a 48" x 48" though lol.

Again, it is slight, but it is there. A picky person would pick it out. Good thing I don't have any picky customers


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

lkt1954 said:


> skdave- just finished a 100+ c2 sport tees with your dye sub transfers and only had 2 shirts bleed through thanks to you taking time to discuss how to correct the problem over the phone. We took your advise on correcting the bleeding and all went great. Great product & great service.
> 
> One parting question. How well will the dye sub transfers hold up to multiple washings? A couple of coaches are looking at 100% poly tees that they can number for their athletics daily work out wear, so they will get washed everyday. Tried plastisol and it faded after about 15 washes. Thinking of dye sub. Any thoughts?
> 
> ...


 Larry,
Glad it all worked out. 
As for your wash question .the answer is Dye sublimation on 100 polyester will NEVER wash out or crack.


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## valleyboy_1 (Jan 23, 2010)

Will A4 shirts work well for vinyl transfers? I have a Hotronix on the caddie, and a vinyl cutter. I have an order for Sports shirts on 100% polyester. Just a design on the front and number on the back. Let me know. Thanks.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

We have used the Augusta 790 for a softball league.
Worse shirt ever. Snagged and knotted up coming out of the wash.
This year they requested we NOT quote using these shirts. They did print good tho. We printed black on the scarlet shirts and looked fine.

We got a sample all over print from SkDave on the Monag. Worse shirt EVER for sizing. Reminds me of when I was stationed in Korea and tired to buy shirts off the rack. The sample was a XL and fits like a large. So if you have a lot of XL's your gonna need 2XL or betters so more money for the bigger sizes too. It was a all over blue camo print and looking inside there is no bleed, but it is a heavier shirt so thats probably why. Definitely heavier than the A4 and Augusta's. Print is good on it other than the bad voids.

The A4 3142 are thinner. Sized out good. Printed good. Never had a complaint and its what we are quoting for the league this year.


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## iamchu15 (Jan 29, 2013)

I use a4 shirts with vinyl for a whole softball league. 1 year later they still look the same as when 1st printed. I would say all shirt companies have their pros and cons. I found the Harrington shirts to be better at holding dye sub than the Hanes. 

I try not to use plastisol on poly shirts, never had great durability. However, I have cotton shirts for 3 years and the transfers look great.


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