# CRYOCOAT � Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?



## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Green galaxy and Ryonet have the apparent end all of emulsions. No diazo...straight photopolymer. Good for long runs of water base, discharge and plastisol. Seems to be really thick with lots of body.
Has anyone gave it a try? Seems a tad expensive, but if it does what he says it does, I'm in!
Or do I need to be the guinnea pig? Lol
Don't remember if he mentioned a shelf life...
Looks like a pretty light blue (I do like the pink though haha).
Anyone.……?!………

Just found this.....
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-industry-news/t644993.html


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

a buttload of screen printers and no one has tried this emulsion? lol
guess ill try to give it a go...


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I'd suggest SAATI PHU. Good stuff. Works for all ink types. It's cheaper too. I post expose for 6-8 minutes just to be safe, but especially for WB or discharge runs.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



Biverson said:


> I'd suggest SAATI PHU. Good stuff. Works for all ink types. It's cheaper too. I post expose for 6-8 minutes just to be safe, but especially for WB or discharge runs.


whats PHU? i have only used the ryonet pink stuff. only diazo i used was my 1st speedball kit lol


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

It's their photopolymer emulsion. No diazo needed. Use it straight from the bucket. Similar to Ryonet's cryocoat. If you get all your supplies from Ryonet I'd just try the cryocoat. Saati is all I've used and I've had good luck with it. I've yet to hear anything bad about it. My exposure times are around 1:45.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



Biverson said:


> It's their photopolymer emulsion. No diazo needed. Use it straight from the bucket. Similar to Ryonet's cryocoat. If you get all your supplies from Ryonet I'd just try the cryocoat. Saati is all I've used and I've had good luck with it. I've yet to hear anything bad about it. My exposure times are around 1:45.


1:45 with what type of exposure?
thanks for all the info!

no harden x needed for water base or discharge?...just post expose?
thanks again!


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Exposure unit is a basic 8 light UV kit I got used. Guy probably got it from Ryonet. Exposure time will vary depending on age of bulbs, unit, etc. Sean recommended the PHU to me and with his kit he was using back in the day, that was like mine, he was getting 1:30.

With photopolymer there's no need to put on hardener. I think if you wanted to you could. But just post expose and you're good to go for WB and discharge.


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## Fresh Prints (Apr 13, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I agree the phu is great stuff. Exposes quick and is easier to reclaim than the wb pink stuff from ryonet. It's held up fine with my small discharge jobs.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

https://p5.zdusercontent.com/attach...aAbJ7P1OzVJ4FquBNo4DOA.FtINQxiIGYb_gY1Yecgsrg The Green Galaxy is made by Saati. I'm sure it's nothing more the the PHU dyed green. You guys should learn that everything at Ryonet is rebranded product by someone else. What Ryonet is good at is marketing into making the rebranded product better then the original. Then they mark up the price. Everything there is about as overpriced as their egos. I've been using the Saati PHU for years. @FiveOneSix Ace Screen out of Ohio has is close to you if you need some quick. Otherwise Spot Color Supply out of GA are great guys. They sent me a sample years ago and got me hooked. They also carry the IC ink series Ryonet told me was discontinued and is great for standard plastisol. I switched to Union Maxopake for plastisol. If you like the Green Galaxy try Permaset Super cover. Yes it's more expensive but you'll use way less ink. Tech Support Supply out of PA carries it. I'm about to try some simulated using the HSB method with the super cover. Haven't decided if I am going to try a discharge or a white underbase yet.

The Saati PHU is best post exposed for waterbase and discharge. I throw them outside on sunny days for 30 min or so. If I throw them on the exposure unit I'll post expose the ink side.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Yea I knew that about ryonet but I didn't know it was saati! Is saati the whole green Galaxy line?
What is "HSB"?
Why only post the ink side? Why not both?
Thanks bud...good to have you back!


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



FiveOneSix said:


> Yea I knew that about ryonet but I didn't know it was saati! Is saati the whole green Galaxy line?
> What is "HSB"?
> Why only post the ink side? Why not both?
> Thanks bud...good to have you back!


I don't think saati makes ink. GG is decent ink. I like Permaset better because they have the SuperCover line for printing on dark shirts. But for printing on light colors (or using the Comet White) GG works great.

Saati PHU is great stuff. But beware of several new versions of it. Don't get the PHU-2 or PHU-HR, get the regular old PHU. I had troubles with those versions ... had little clumps in the emulsion and was prone to reabsorbing water. Porkchopharry had the same experience.

I get 21-second exposures with PHU on a 1000 watt metal halide. Holds up fine to waterbased, but as others mentioned I do post expose it. Sure post expose both sides if you like. People often do the ink side since it is the shirt side that faces the light the first time.

HSB = Hue, Saturation and Brightness ... it's another color model, like RGB or CMYK.

*EDIT:* This place has a good price and shipping rate on PHU. But you might want to add a note/comment when you order to ensure you get the regular PHU. And if you care what color it is Red/Blue, mention that too, as their ordering form does not have an option to specify that.
http://screenprinterswarehouse.com/emulsions/saati-textil-phu/

The last gallon I got from them was only 2 weeks old, so fresh stock.


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



NoXid said:


> I don't think saati makes ink. GG is decent ink. I like Permaset better because they have the SuperCover line for printing on dark shirts. But for printing on light colors (or using the Comet White) GG works great.
> 
> Saati PHU is great stuff. But beware of several new versions of it. Don't get the PHU-2 or PHU-HR, get the regular old PHU. I had troubles with those versions ... had little clumps in the emulsion and was prone to reabsorbing water. Porkchopharry had the same experience.
> 
> ...


You can also get the PHU in orange. There is a reason you get fresh stock from those guys, cause they don't stock it. It is drop shipped from Saati. They are 30 min from me and I cant go pick up a gallon when needed which sucks if I run out in the winter. That may have changed but not as of fall so I bought 4 gal to make sure I make it though. I have 1.25 gallon left. might text them tomorrow and check.

I checked out the PHU2 and it appears to just have 2% higher solids. Ill avoid it thanks for the info unless the want to send a sample. Couldn't find any info on the HR. 

More importantly HSB is a great model for simulated process prints, RGB is worthless on the printing end but important on the separation/design side.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Wow. So as far as plastisol, water based and discharge...dual cure or anything with diazo is not needed? I got a gallon of wsb from ryonet to do water based and discharge (before I knew exactly how they repackaged other brands), so should I just return it? Didn't open it yet.
This goes against everything I have known...I love learning more everyday =)


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

There are only a few photopolymers that can be used without stencil hardening. I personally don't like the WSB which is a CCI product. The other thing is do you want go spent time dialing in a product you may not use again. 

After looking at all the specs it appears the PHU it thicker then the rebranded product. Saati doesn't have its viscosity on tech sheet but I emailed them a few years ago and they said the viscosity was 90-130 poise where the cryocoat is 70-90 poise. 

I personally prefer to get a gallon a few month old if I'm going to be using right away. Since the PHU has become popular that's a little tough. A lot of emulsions thicken as it ages the reason for the range on viscosity. The PHU has a 2 year shelf life unopened and 6-12 months open but with good practices, not kept in a hot shop, last longer most of the time. I had a qt left in a gallon got pushed back in cabinet no telling how old it was and worked just fine. I also found the keeping in the fridge is a bad idea, it condensates when removed and the water damages the emulsion. Something the Saati rep mention when they were here but I already had quit keeping in the fridge a few years back.


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

The PHU-HR is High Resolution, so for more detailed art. It is supposed to wash out easier. And it does ... even after it is exposed 

The PHU-2, if I remember correctly, was 50% as fast (2 times as slow) as regular PHU. It is aimed at people with insanely fast LED exposure units (hmmmm, who would that be ...  ) who want to add a bit more margin for error on their times.

Ah, good to know on the drop shipping. Guess that explains their pricing and shipping costs. I was surprised a place so far from me had the lowest shipping!


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Sooooo, the higher number the poise, the thicker viscosity it is? I remember learning about viscosity when I took a pinstriping class but don't remember the term "poise"...I probably wasn't listening close enough ha!

Ok so returning the wsb and getting the saati phu!
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



NoXid said:


> The PHU-HR is High Resolution, so for more detailed art. It is supposed to wash out easier. And it does ... even after it is exposed
> 
> The PHU-2, if I remember correctly, was 50% as fast (2 times as slow) as regular PHU. It is aimed at people with insanely fast LED exposure units (hmmmm, who would that be ...  ) who want to add a bit more margin for error on their times.


Wouldn't know what your talking about. My exposure take 6sec. Lol. 

Might have to find a supplier to give me a sample of each. I can't get anyone at Saati to contact me back anymore.


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## TH Apparel (Jul 12, 2013)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I'm another one that would recommend Saati.


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## smallwonkydachsh (Mar 17, 2016)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I'm having a hard time getting the cryocoat out of a screen - i don't use a dip tank, i've been using franmar strip e doo which has worked pretty well for most things, but suddenly it just makes some of the cryocoat get clumpy and gummy - it's a real pain to get off - like, the reclaiming took maybe 3 times as long? any advice?


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



smallwonkydachsh said:


> I'm having a hard time getting the cryocoat out of a screen - i don't use a dip tank, i've been using franmar strip e doo which has worked pretty well for most things, but suddenly it just makes some of the cryocoat get clumpy and gummy - it's a real pain to get off - like, the reclaiming took maybe 3 times as long? any advice?


You could be under exposing Or using a hot chemical. Some screen wash will make the Saati clump like that when claimed. Also when the stripedoo gets old if also does the same. I have also found too much ink residue do the same seems to reduce the effectiveness.


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## Inkspreaders (May 7, 2012)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I'm using the GG CryoCoat Emulsion on 4 screens so far. Exposure time 55s-1m on Xvactor exposure. I used to use Davis Purple 2 and the exposure time was up to 6m. It captures details perfectly but it seems like the plastisol ink doesn't want to spread across the screen. I haven't tried the WB ink yet but I have to use a thinner in my white ink for the first time since I started printing in 2008. I'm just not impressed but I guess because I've only used Davis Purple 1 & 2 and S.E.X. Emulsion maybe I don't know what I should expect. I'll be using it again in the morning I hope it works because I ordered the WPB Hybrid and all I can say is EPIC FAILURE.


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## Inkspreaders (May 7, 2012)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

*CryoCoat update* 4 hours into my run with plastisol and its excellent on yellow mesh not so much on white. I'm guessing the lower mesh will need a 2:1,2 coat while yellow works well on 1:1 coat.


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



Inkspreaders said:


> I'm using the GG CryoCoat Emulsion on 4 screens so far. Exposure time 55s-1m on Xvactor exposure. I used to use Davis Purple 2 and the exposure time was up to 6m. It captures details perfectly but it seems like the plastisol ink doesn't want to spread across the screen. I haven't tried the WB ink yet but I have to use a thinner in my white ink for the first time since I started printing in 2008. I'm just not impressed but I guess because I've only used Davis Purple 1 & 2 and S.E.X. Emulsion maybe I don't know what I should expect. I'll be using it again in the morning I hope it works because I ordered the WPB Hybrid and all I can say is EPIC FAILURE.


Are you talking about Cryocoat, or the one you used to use?


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## janey6152 (Nov 22, 2015)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Thank you for the Info . I'm on site ordering stuff now..
screenprinterswarehouse.com
looking for a discount code.


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



sben763 said:


> You could be under exposing Or using a hot chemical. Some screen wash will make the Saati clump like that when claimed. Also when the stripedoo gets old if also does the same. I have also found too much ink residue do the same seems to reduce the effectiveness.


I came on this forum looking for an answer to the same problem that guy was having. I have tried everything from under expose, over expose, post expose, not post expose, etc etc etc and I still get CryoCoat stuck in my screens that I cant get out. Seems to only happen on yellow mesh though and the higher the mesh count, the more prone it is to happen. I have a workhorse LED and have tried times from 10 seconds to 40 seconds. Since CryoCoat is Saati PHU and that's what you use I was hoping you could tell me what chemicals and cleaners you are using in your prep and clean process including dip tank solution. Maybe I need to switch out my chemicals. 

I'm cool with sticking with the CryoCoat if I can get this issue solved because my price is $70.29 per gallon but I get free shipping. Additionally I get 10% back on this product so my delivered cost for a gallon is somewhere around $63. 

Thanks!


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## Inkspreaders (May 7, 2012)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

HAHA! of course I haven't reclaimed the screens yet... this will happen Monday. I'm going to be very upset if I can't get this out of my screens


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



elusiveprint said:


> I'm cool with sticking with the CryoCoat if I can get this issue solved because my price is $70.29 per gallon but I get free shipping. Additionally I get 10% back on this product so my delivered cost for a gallon is somewhere around $63.
> 
> Thanks!


Is this through the membership?
Isn't the saati cheaper?


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



elusiveprint said:


> I came on this forum looking for an answer to the same problem that guy was having. I have tried everything from under expose, over expose, post expose, not post expose, etc etc etc and I still get CryoCoat stuck in my screens that I cant get out. Seems to only happen on yellow mesh though and the higher the mesh count, the more prone it is to happen. I have a workhorse LED and have tried times from 10 seconds to 40 seconds. Since CryoCoat is Saati PHU and that's what you use I was hoping you could tell me what chemicals and cleaners you are using in your prep and clean process including dip tank solution. Maybe I need to switch out my chemicals.
> 
> I'm cool with sticking with the CryoCoat if I can get this issue solved because my price is $70.29 per gallon but I get free shipping. Additionally I get 10% back on this product so my delivered cost for a gallon is somewhere around $63.
> 
> Thanks!


I only use yellow mesh with 1 exception is the 86 I keep on hand for shimmer. I use all newman mesh 128-272 although I also have 300 and 380. 

Ok here is from start to finish. I use Image Mate 260 degreaser/wetting agent. I use to use Saati Screen prep2 an dthe blue was staining my mesh and couldn't figure out why as it didn't at first. Saati PHU pink/red emulsion. I have noticed the orange seems to be thinner and doesn't like the LED as well. The blue also. This may also be my coating vs the red/pink emulsion but I have started coating a 1/2. 

My own LED unit 10 sec exposure. no post exposure unless doing water base. After printing PW4 while on press and the either CCI evirowash or Saati IR18. I prefer the CCI. Saati ER-2 but Franmar Stripedoo also works well. I use CCI envirohaze, CCI liquid renuz it or Saati HR don't remember the number now but its the gel. I like the CCI but the other 2 will remove suborn stains


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## Kickassstuffco (Mar 15, 2016)

I have used it now for over a month and it has be great I use 1-1 pass and 1.30 exposure time , wash out and post harden out side for like 15 mins, I have use it on yellow mesh 160-280 screen all no prob one job was 500 water based shirt on 200 mesh dbl pass . No probs I use the Cryoprep and Sgreen cleaner to reclame all worked great . No complaints so far ..


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## headfirst (Jun 29, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I've gone through 5 gallons of it in the last few weeks. It's a great emulsion for plastisol but I'm less than happy with how it performed with discharge. I was using it on a 10,000 piece discharge print and it fell apart every thousand impressions or so. I ended up finishing it with something else. 

The Ryonet rep told me that the problem must have been that I wasn't using their degreaser...


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## bpfohler (Jun 7, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

We use Saati PHU, LED exposure unit, 6 seconds exposure!! Even with halftones on 280 mesh


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



headfirst said:


> The Ryonet rep told me that the problem must have been that I wasn't using their degreaser...


Then they need to sell both as a package. That's not right. I know they "suggest it" but they don't say, "you only get 1k prints if you don't use cryoprep"

Any satti phu users have this problem? Isn't it the same EXACT thing?


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



headfirst said:


> I've gone through 5 gallons of it in the last few weeks. It's a great emulsion for plastisol but I'm less than happy with how it performed with discharge. I was using it on a 10,000 piece discharge print and it fell apart every thousand impressions or so. I ended up finishing it with something else.
> 
> The Ryonet rep told me that the problem must have been that I wasn't using their degreaser...


I cant say that Ive done a 10,000 piece discharge job with it but I did do a 2,000 piece discharge job with it and no problem. I post cooked the hell out of it though AND used hardener. I figured the job paid for the screens if I was never able to reclaim them, but I was... after a 2 day tank soak.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



elusiveprint said:


> I cant say that Ive done a 10,000 piece discharge job with it but I did do a 2,000 piece discharge job with it and no problem. I post cooked the hell out of it though AND used hardener. I figured the job paid for the screens if I was never able to reclaim them, but I was... after a 2 day tank soak.


Did you use the cryo screen prep? Took 2 days soaking to reclaim? What's in your tank and what's the ratio? Did it all fall off in the tank or did you have to blast it with the pressure washer?
Thanks for the info!!!


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## elusiveprint (Aug 29, 2013)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



FiveOneSix said:


> Did you use the cryo screen prep? Took 2 days soaking to reclaim? What's in your tank and what's the ratio? Did it all fall off in the tank or did you have to blast it with the pressure washer?
> Thanks for the info!!!


I did not use the cryo screen prep. I use Franmar degreaser on my screens. I have EasiStrip in my tank at a ratio of 1:5. Honestly, it was only a 2 day soak because it was the weekend. It could have been ready sooner but I would not have known. After I made the screen I post-hardened on my LED unit for 2 minutes per side. Thats a long time considering the burn time is only 20 seconds on 200 mesh. After that I used a hardener on it. A lot of work for one screen but its better than having to remake a screen halfway through the run. I easily run 200-500 piece discharge jobs though on a 20 second post harden, no hardener. I only go all out like that on large jobs.


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

The viscosity is slightly different then the PHU. I find the orange is also thinner but maybe due to every time ordering it was alway shipped direct from Saati. The Cryo screen prep is probably Saati direct prep 2 in green. I liked it but found with either my mesh or the extremely hard water the colorant in the screen prep and the Cryo was staining my screens and would get progressively worse. The advantage to using the Saati screen prep is it has a wetting agent. I switched to either Imagemate or something else that Onestop supplies and doesn't have any colorants and havent had the issue since. It will be labeled with a wetting agent. I've seen other say you only need a wetting agents if doing halftones I have been using a wetting a wetting for years. Never a screen failure. Couple months ago I printed a plasticharge job. Left plasticharge in screen on Friday. Needed to print another shirt Monday, with screen wash and water was able to use same screen. No hardener Saati PHU 6 sec exposure, sun was my post exposure. Stick them outside for 30 min in the direct sun can't get and better full spectrum post hardening. 

Usually breakdown is due to under exposure. Having the correct time during exposure is key. Even with post exposure if your too far off breakdown can occur. With some LED exposure units they don't have a wide enough band to properly cross link the emulsion. Some of the black light units don't fully penatrate a stencil. A lot a play considering stencil thickness, humidity of stencil at exposure.


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## micleross (Mar 25, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



NoXid said:


> I don't think saati makes ink. GG is decent ink. I like Permaset better because they have the SuperCover line for printing on dark shirts. But for printing on light colors (or using the Comet White) GG works great.
> 
> Saati PHU is great stuff. But beware of several new versions of it. Don't get the PHU-2 or PHU-HR, get the regular old PHU. I had troubles with those versions ... had little clumps in the emulsion and was prone to reabsorbing water. Porkchopharry had the same experience.
> 
> ...



*Recently started using PHU ..... I am happy with it ....... also ordered it from these guys..... happy with the price and shipping. *


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## mmonk (Oct 23, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

I just started using the Cryo stuff. I coated some 156, 200 and 305 screens, all 1/1. So far only burned the 156's. at 50 secs they recommend screens wash out but small details wash off/out. So I'm more like 1:30...but my bulbs may need replacing. I'l do test runs again when I change them and thinsg slow down.


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## WGiant (Oct 15, 2015)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



sben763 said:


> Some of the black light units don't fully penatrate a stencil.


This is an issue I struggled with. I have to do fairly thin coats on 80 mesh. Runs are under 300 shirts and it hasn't posed a problem so far. I had this problem with another hybrid though, so I don't consider it unique to cryocoat.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



WGiant said:


> This is an issue I struggled with. I have to do fairly thin coats on 80 mesh. Runs are under 300 shirts and it hasn't posed a problem so far. I had this problem with another hybrid though, so I don't consider it unique to cryocoat.


Would lengthening tour exposure time help at all with a problem like that?


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



WGiant said:


> This is an issue I struggled with. I have to do fairly thin coats on 80 mesh. Runs are under 300 shirts and it hasn't posed a problem so far. I had this problem with another hybrid though, so I don't consider it unique to cryocoat.


It just about any emulsion especially on 80 mesh with the low power light sources. With 80 your thinnest coat to bridge the mesh is about 2-3x thicker then a 180-200 mesh. When I had a black light unit and used the PHU I was at about 1:30. On 166 mesh. See below. 




FiveOneSix said:


> Would lengthening tour exposure time help at all with a problem like that?


Except undercutting or light films become a issue. Switching to I ink specifically for films greatly reduced this. When I started to use the photopolymers I had to expose 45 sec and longer and washout was difficult. Once getting films with UV blocking I was able to increase the time to double. 

You may also be suffering from the color of the dye in the emulsions.


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## purfectlogos (Sep 2, 2016)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



FiveOneSix said:


> Green galaxy and Ryonet have the apparent end all of emulsions. No diazo...straight photopolymer. Good for long runs of water base, discharge and plastisol. Seems to be really thick with lots of body.
> Has anyone gave it a try? Seems a tad expensive, but if it does what he says it does, I'm in!
> Or do I need to be the guinnea pig? Lol
> Don't remember if he mentioned a shelf life...
> ...


Hello, we use the CryoCoat exclusively at our shop. We used Saati before making the swtich about 6 months ago. We absolutely love CryoCoat, it has made our life a lot easier. We post expose our long run plastisol screens in the sun for about 5 minutes just to be safe (although we have never had a screen with plasitsol ink breakdown while using CryoCoat). Here is the big key with CryoCoat for waterbase/discharge: 

1) You must prep with CryoPrep degreaser. You can probably get away without the prep for plastisol, but not for waterbase. The screen holds so much better with the prep. 

2) post expose in the sun for at least 10 minutes when doing waterbase runs. If you runs are going to be a few hundred, consider post exposing for 25-30 minutes in the sun. We burn a day or two ahead of time, so we are never strapped for time and can let them post expose for a long time. We never have screen break down with waterbase ink if we post expose properly.

The biggest life saver has been not needing to use hardener. CryoCoat washes out so easy when we are done, even if we have post exposed for 30 minutes. We were constantly fighting screens and ruining some that had chemical hardener on them. As long as CryoCoat keeps the same formula, we won't be switching back anytime soon.


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## Biverson (Oct 20, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



purfectlogos said:


> Hello, we use the CryoCoat exclusively at our shop. We used Saati before making the swtich about 6 months ago. We absolutely love CryoCoat, it has made our life a lot easier. We post expose our long run plastisol screens in the sun for about 5 minutes just to be safe (although we have never had a screen with plasitsol ink breakdown while using CryoCoat). Here is the big key with CryoCoat for waterbase/discharge:
> 
> 1) You must prep with CryoPrep degreaser. You can probably get away without the prep for plastisol, but not for waterbase. The screen holds so much better with the prep.
> 
> ...


Seems fishy this is your first post...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## mmonk (Oct 23, 2011)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Cryocoat is made by SAATI for Ryonet


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



mmonk said:


> cryocoat is made by saati for ryonet


exactly!!!


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 10, 2014)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*



purfectlogos said:


> Hello, we use the CryoCoat exclusively at our shop. We used Saati before making the swtich about 6 months ago. We absolutely love CryoCoat, it has made our life a lot easier. We post expose our long run plastisol screens in the sun for about 5 minutes just to be safe (although we have never had a screen with plasitsol ink breakdown while using CryoCoat). Here is the big key with CryoCoat for waterbase/discharge:
> 
> 1) You must prep with CryoPrep degreaser. You can probably get away without the prep for plastisol, but not for waterbase. The screen holds so much better with the prep.
> 
> ...


That's what a ryonet rep would say lol. Have YOU tried it? Thanks for the info now go get your posts up!


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## sben763 (May 17, 2009)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

They used Saati but switched to Cryocoat.... I guess they decided to spent more money for the samething, Oh wait they probably spent the $150 or what ever it is to save money for the membership. LOL that place is the biggest joke in the supply industry right behind catsdrool productions


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## mgfi26 (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

Just wanted to let you know we do have the PHU is stock in whatever flavor you prefer. PHU, PHU2, PHU HR, Red, Blue, you name it and we have it. Thanks Sean for the recommendation! Matt


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## mgfi26 (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: CRYOCOAT • Anyone try this (perfect?!?!) emulsion?*

BTW - I am with PMM Supply / screenprinterswarehouse.com

Thanks again!


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