# paint thinner mixed with plastisol to thin it?



## rhi (Dec 27, 2006)

the plastisol im using is way to think and not going through the the screen can i mix it with paint thinner so its kinda liquid? will it still cure propely and will it damage the shirt?


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## SketchBox (Jan 4, 2008)

I dont know this for a fact but that seems like a very bad idea, the fumes might even kill you.


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## jrbaker (Feb 14, 2008)

You can add reducer to thin it.


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## rwshirts (Dec 5, 2007)

I would use the proper reducer that your ink supplier can supply you. Are your screens burned properly? Are you rinsing them out well after burning? You could have emulsion still in the screens. Are you using to high of a mesh count??

RW


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## mtmob (Apr 21, 2007)

it might even catch fire when put through the dryer if you are using one especially a gas dryer.

Trust me from experience steer away from cutting corners you usually end up paying double if not more. when i first started screen printing and trust me im far from being a pro but i use to always try cutting corners and i realized it was always always easier doing it the proper way.


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## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

From what I've read, it'll thin it -- for a while -- then stiffen back up, and it may negatively affect the curing of the ink.

Stir the hell out of the ink first, then add a little curable reducer if it's still too thick. If the ink is cold, put the container in a bucket and put some warm water in the bucket to warm up the ink.

Paint thinner really has no place in a screen printing shop. Most are bad for your health, and if you're using it to clean ink from screens, will sometimes lock in the emulsion so the screen can't be reclaimed.


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## tman07 (Nov 14, 2007)

NO NO NO - You CANNOT use paint thinner to reduce plastisol inks, it changes the chemistry properties of the ink - bad - very bad.


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## rhi (Dec 27, 2006)

ok, i wont then! thanks


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## CBMcKay (Jul 9, 2008)

tman07 said:


> NO NO NO - You CANNOT use paint thinner to reduce plastisol inks, it changes the chemistry properties of the ink - bad - very bad.


Well, that is a little strong I think. We have been using paint thinner for years. It won't kill you - after all you can use it to thin and clean up paint and painters don't die (good ventilation is the key). It won't catch on fire in the dryer. The shirts will still cure. Blah-

We use it to accomplish a certain goal and not as a "cure all". It changes the sheer of the ink and allows the the ink to "slip" through the screen better - in certain circumstances. You are changing the ink chemistry, true, but you don't need to add that much to accomplish what you want to do. Just make sure that you watch what you are doing and check for proper curing - but you should anyway. Curable reducer is also good - in certain circumstances. And warming the ink works - in certain circumstances. You need a lot of techniques in your toolbox to address all the variables that come up.


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## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

CBMcKay said:


> Well, that is a little strong I think. We have been using paint thinner for years. It won't kill you - after all you can use it to thin and clean up paint and painters don't die (good ventilation is the key). It won't catch on fire in the dryer. The shirts will still cure. Blah-
> 
> We use it to accomplish a certain goal and not as a "cure all". It changes the sheer of the ink and allows the the ink to "slip" through the screen better - in certain circumstances. You are changing the ink chemistry, true, but you don't need to add that much to accomplish what you want to do. Just make sure that you watch what you are doing and check for proper curing - but you should anyway. Curable reducer is also good - in certain circumstances. And warming the ink works - in certain circumstances. You need a lot of techniques in your toolbox to address all the variables that come up.


I would beg to differ on two counts. First off, yes, it'll thin the ink. So will a lot of things, but changing the chemistry may lead to poor washability. And as far as good ventilation, while that is strongly advisable, keeping the stuff off your skin is recommended also.
If you have to thin your inks after warming them up and a really good stirring, use a little curable reducer. It isn't expensive, goes a long way, and is designed for that express purpose. Gasoline would probably thin the ink just as well, but everyone looks for shortcuts thinking they're saving money when in fact they lose control of their product and in some cases endanger their health through long time exposure.


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## edzts (Jul 18, 2006)

A soft hand extender made for plastisol is a way to make the ink smooth and thinner without losing opacity. I use Rutland inks. Ask your ink supplier for the soft hand extender product they make.


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## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

edzts said:


> A soft hand extender made for plastisol is a way to make the ink smooth and thinner without losing opacity. I use Rutland inks. Ask your ink supplier for the soft hand extender product they make.


As will just plain old extender from Union ink. I've got a bucket of black ink that is just too thick. I routinely move some into a smaller container and cut it about a third with the base and a touch of reducer and it smooths it out and makes it print easier.


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## dorkidori_s13 (Oct 22, 2009)

i would recommend you use a reducer of some sort...you can have a lot of fun with reducers as you can get almost a "water based" flow of plastisol from the ink if you know what youre doing with the mixtures (it takes a while to figure out which colors reduce correctly)

stay away from using paint thinner...dangerous outcomes will come your way my friend *waves hand and tells you to accept imperial credits* lol


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## ErinAllen (Aug 11, 2009)

Hello All!
You do not want to use paint thinner with a plastisol ink. Call the ink manufacturer and see what they recommend. If you are using a Wilflex Inks use 10025VB QEC Viscosity Buster at 1 to 3 % by weight. You will notice a huge difference. 

Have a great day! 

Erin


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