# Sublimating on colored shirts for texture effects



## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

I have not done any sublimation yet, but I am aware of the limitations and the 'correct' use so to speak.

I was curious if anyone, or if this works at all, has used sublimation on darker poly shirts for texture/pattern effects.

Like red on red or a very light black for a subtle texture.

Examples might be a smoke grey shirt with using black in varying levels to get an effect. 

Thanks
JM


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

remember with sublimation you are dyeing the fabric...actually bonding with the polyester fabric. So with that in mind, you cannot dye with a color lighter than your fabric. You can dye sub light polyester with some color shifting. but doing a light red on a dark red will not work..best to take some scrap and see what you get...


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

Ah, that makes sense. 

When I get set up I'll play with using black in varying degrees to see what it looks like

Thanks!
JM


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

I dont see why this would not work. Im going to try it in a bit. Ill post photos.

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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

Awesome. Really curious.


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

So here are my results.
Picture 1 is a texture in rgb black with some 20% black for shade. The lower shapes are rgb dark navy with black and the upped are navy with black.

Picture 2 is the full rgb pellet without light blacks. This is to show the color change due to the base color of the shirt.



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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

Here is a photo on the blue shirt.


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

Here is the original photo. 


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

DPendable said:


> Here is a photo on the blue shirt.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums


How did you not get a press box from the dye migration of the blue shirt when heated?


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

macman29681 said:


> How did you not get a press box from the dye migration of the blue shirt when heated?


Not sure. Never had an issue. Here are my settings.

400 degrees
40 seconds
Med - firm pressure

Im using a gildan 43000 shirt. 

I hope this helps. 

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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

DPendable said:


> Im using a gildan 43000 shirt.


Was curious my self
Gildan isn't showing a 43000 shirt. 42000.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

socceronly said:


> I have not done any sublimation yet, but I am aware of the limitations and the 'correct' use so to speak.
> 
> I was curious if anyone, or if this works at all, has used sublimation on darker poly shirts for texture/pattern effects.
> 
> ...


I have done this on some softball jerseys. I tell them every year that they can't choose dark shirts and certain colors and every year they do it. Senior league. It mostly just mutes the color and not overly pretty or so I think. They don't complain but man I hate seeing them out there.
Your probably better off using white to pop the colors or maybe a tan/vegas gold which might work better also.


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

freebird1963 said:


> Was curious my self
> Gildan isn't showing a 43000 shirt. 42000.


Sorry, 42000 is right. 

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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

great. was wondering if maybe a new shirt or a shirt only offered somewere else.


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

Wow, that is fantastic! 

I think there is a lot of potential for adding texture to the shirt in combination with other decoractions like a plasticol transfer or vinyl logo!

Thanks for posting those!


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

I have been testing this lately.

My second attempt came out pretty good also on a Gildan tee.

I just used black with some silver vinyl highlights.

It cam out pretty good but I do get the press lines where apparently the tee has melted slightly.


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

That's amazing! 

Well done!


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## JimAndTeresa (Dec 21, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> ... I do get the press lines where apparently the tee has melted slightly.


Are you using a pillow or foam underneath the shirt? Also, you might want to decrease the pressure and increase the time to avoid the press lines. This is a recommendation by Vapor Apparel with their shirts. I do it with Jerzees and get little to no press lines as a rule, and when one does show up it will usually disappear when washed and left to hang dry.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Jim/Teresa,

I use a pillow and have tried decreasing the pressure to very light, it was also suggested that I lower my heat press temperature.

The combination of a lighter, cooler press did seem to get rid of the press lines but the print was very light (faded look) so maybe a longer press as you have suggested will work for me, I'll give it a try.

Thanks for you suggestion


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

I just tried a rather light press and a longer press time of 65sec and still see press lines and a slight shine on the press area. Ran my finger nail along the line a few times and pressed for about 10 seconds and the line has pretty much disappeared.

The colours came out great!

The press area I'm referring to that is shiny is the pillow area which is outside of the dye-sub paper area, also covered by a separate piece of paper larger than the dye-sub paper and the pillow.

When the press cools down I will try a cooler press and slightly longer time.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Nope still shiny  I think less saturated colours with this press.

175C (347F) for 75sec, Light pressure, Gildan 42000 Tee.

DPendable you mentioned you don't see the press lines, do you see a slight shine on the pressed area?


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

Hi Bjorn. I'm the guy that commented on this in another thread. I've tried pressing a dark grey shirt recently and tried everything, and can't get it to work either 

Tearing around the printed design does eliminate the marks from the sublimation paper. The pillow I use is bigger than my press. I've tried less pressure, less temperature, more time, and can't get anything to work. Looks like we're in the same frustrating boat!...


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

I'm curious if the issue you are talking about is a sublimation issue, or something to do with the dark shirts?

Do you get these lines on white shirts too? 

Thanks,
JM


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

socceronly said:


> I'm curious if the issue you are talking about is a sublimation issue, or something to do with the dark shirts?
> 
> Do you get these lines on white shirts too?
> 
> ...


You do get the lines but they are not very noticeable. I'm gonna be experimenting a bit more over the next few days, and hopefully put my results on here...


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Hey Glen,

Just wondering do you get the slight shine from the press plate?


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> Hey Glen,
> 
> Just wondering do you get the slight shine from the press plate?


Hi Bjorn

Yeah...the shine is from the heated plate. I use greaseproof baking paper bigger than the plate, but still get the shine and slight colour shift. VERY frustrating. 

Have you managed to have any success with the process yet?...


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

Try a cut shirt and longer dwell time. Worth a try.

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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

DPendable said:


> Try a cut shirt and longer dwell time. Worth a try.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums


Hi Dave

What do you mean by a 'cut shirt'?...

I am gonna experiment some more by dropping the temp and upping the time. Thanks for the input


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

I'm so close to having success haha

I can get rid of the lines by ripping the edges of the paper, so I think I can tick that one off.

I also use a large piece of paper over the top of the dye-sub paper which is larger than my press plate so hangs over the edge of everything. but still get the shine.

I was told to try a lower temp, lighten off the press and use a longer dwell time. I think this worked but the colours came out very light.

Next attempt will be slightly more pressure at an even lower temp and longer time. Hell of a lot of trial and error with this, a bit odd really.


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## MAXDesign (Sep 24, 2013)

Well, good luck Bjorn. Sounds like you're in the same quandary as me haha...

I'm sure it will be worth all the effort once you've nailed it.


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

I pressed with a 17x 22 cut sheet. Even when the print isnt that big I still use that size so I dont get the lines and I dont have to rip/tear the edges.

When I said to use a cut shirt, I was thinking this order:
Blank shirt
Transfer hanging over press
Cut shirt (instead of 2nd paper or Teflon sheet)
Press at 400
Maybe 60seconds (this is the unsure part since you now need to heat up the other shirt too). I dont know if it will work but it's worth a try.



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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Sounds like a good idea, the only problem I have is that I use pretty much the whole area on the tranfer paper which is A3. I'm trying to press designs that cover as much of a tee as I can fit with an A3 size print.


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

DPendable said:


> I pressed with a 17x 22 cut sheet. Even when the print isnt that big I still use that size so I dont get the lines and I dont have to rip/tear the edges.
> 
> When I said to use a cut shirt, I was thinking this order:
> Blank shirt
> ...


That's great if you are using sublimation paper bigger than your press you will eliminate your press line completely, however, I use 13x19 paper and 8.5x14 paper with a 16x20 heat press and never get a press box anymore. The key is to use a piece of foam under your image that is smaller than the paper so the paper hangs over the edge of the foam by about and 1" on all sides and your problem is solved forever. I got foam I think from coastalbusiness and then I cover them with a teflon sheet and put the t shirt over that. Now I have never been able to solve the shine issue so what I do is press the entire shirt usually at 305 med. pressure for 10 sec. if I am using a color other than white. If there is no image on the back I don't press the back at all. Certain colors though Gildan 42000 Orange if I am going to sublimate a black image on that shirt I need to press the shirt at the same temp 385 as the sublimation or the color will not match. I also use the lightest pressure than I can use the foam is hardly compressed at all. I hope that helps some. I use an Epson 1430 with cobra CISS.


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

That thar be the kind of post that makes this forum awesome.

Thanks!


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Great info Mike, unfortunately pressing the whole shirt for me requires pressing multiple time and moving the shirt around to cover the entire shirt's surface. I tried it and I can still see a square from the plate from the original transfer press.

I posted this in another thread also...

I've pressed a few tee's today for tests using Gildan Performance Tee's.

Heat press set to a fairly light pressure.
Temperature set to 190C
Press time at 40sec

I ripped the edges of the paper, once pressed I rubbed where the light press lines were and pressed again for 4sec and there are no signs of press lines.

There doesn't appear to be a shine left on the white tee  but a grey tee I did with the same settings does still have a shine to it 

Second attempt at a white tee with a larger design and it appears ok 

So far with my setup I've come to the conclusion that only white Gildan tee's will be possible to sublimate with an acceptable outcome. I was really hoping for coloured tee's.

If anyone has any better results in regards to the shine I would love to hear from you.


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> Great info Mike, unfortunately pressing the whole shirt for me requires pressing multiple time and moving the shirt around to cover the entire shirt's surface. I tried it and I can still see a square from the plate from the original transfer press.
> 
> I posted this in another thread also...
> 
> ...


I sublimate Gildan 42000 red, orange, and white. I only have a 16x20 heat press and yes I have to do multiple pressings to press the entire front back or both. I press with medium pressure all the colored shirts I am going to press first, then back the pressure all the way down and apply my design. If after there is a slight difference in color between the design area and the rest of the front or back I put the shirt back under the press covered with a teflon sheet to balance out the color. Hope that helps. It is a long process sometimes.


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## socceronly (Jul 22, 2012)

Does pressing with the tacky sublimation paper you get with a wide format printer eliminate the need for tearing edges and foam pads?


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

socceronly said:


> Does pressing with the tacky sublimation paper you get with a wide format printer eliminate the need for tearing edges and foam pads?


No. the tacky paper just prevents shifting and ghosting. we use a tacky paper when we press our socks. since we press one side then flip and press the other, we don't want our transfer to shift.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Does anyone know of any brand of tee's that don't end up with the shine after pressing?

I would be particularly interested in the Vapor range as I can get those but haven't tried them yet.


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## DPendable (Dec 21, 2012)

bjorn2print said:


> Does anyone know of any brand of tee's that don't end up with the shine after pressing?
> 
> I would be particularly interested in the Vapor range as I can get those but haven't tried them yet.


I'm pressing some vapor shirts in the next couple days. I'll keep you posted.


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> Does anyone know of any brand of tee's that don't end up with the shine after pressing?
> 
> I would be particularly interested in the Vapor range as I can get those but haven't tried them yet.


Even the vapor colors leave a shine.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

I thought I'd read somewhere that they did. So basically if you want a professional finish with low production time and no messing around cut and sew would be the only real option with dye-sub.

Pretty disappointing really as my reason for purchasing my dye-sub printer was to print for blank tees


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> I thought I'd read somewhere that they did. So basically if you want a professional finish with low production time and no messing around cut and sew would be the only real option with dye-sub.
> 
> Pretty disappointing really as my reason for purchasing my dye-sub printer was to print for blank tees


White shouldn't be a problem though which is 95% of all sublimation done. The only time I sublimate another color ie. lime green, red, orange is to just sublimate black over it. You shouldn't get much of a shine if you sublimating on white. If you are let me know so we can fix the problem. I am about to do 225 shirts all on white for different robotics teams my area and never have a complaint about shine.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Yeah I see what turns out better but for me it has to be perfect otherwise I can't really sell it. The shine in a big square just reminds me of the old iron on transfers and I know I'll get complaints. My aim was to sell single tees online and if I can't match the quality of other sites doing the same then I can't really do it.

I might try to get the white shirts looking better but was really hoping to be able to work with colours. The next step up for me is DTG and that won't happen for a long long time.


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## macman29681 (May 24, 2013)

bjorn2print said:


> Yeah I see what turns out better but for me it has to be perfect otherwise I can't really sell it. The shine in a big square just reminds me of the old iron on transfers and I know I'll get complaints. My aim was to sell single tees online and if I can't match the quality of other sites doing the same then I can't really do it.
> 
> I might try to get the white shirts looking better but was really hoping to be able to work with colours. The next step up for me is DTG and that won't happen for a long long time.


Using anything but white is tough because you have a color shift with the ink reacting to the shirt color. I am looking at DTG too but not until late next year probably. The Spectra 3000 looks pretty amazing for the price that's the direction I am heading. There is alot of good information on the board about it already.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

Yeah I understand colour shift is an issue, I was just going to work with dark colours and black that look ok. I've done a few tests and they work perfectly, it's just the shine that's holding me back. I'll check out the Spectra 3000.


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## bjorn2print (Nov 1, 2011)

I've been researching again and found a laser printer that prints white ink, you've probably heard about it already as it's mentioned in the forum quite a few times. The Oki 711wt OKI | 711WT Digital White Toner Printer I hope the link is ok to post. Do a search on Youtube, there are some pretty cool demos on there.

I saw the print quality of this first hand today and it was pretty good. I then looked over to the Epson F2000 DTG, drawled, looked at the price, when into a day dream of printing hundreds of t-shirts a day then woke up and went back over to the Oki and thought it might be my next step.


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