# Black image transfers green color on shirt when heat pressed



## kary.francisco (Jan 14, 2019)

Hi all. I am trying sublimation printing for the first time. I have a WF 7210 printer with InkxPro ink, and A-SUB paper.

After some tinkering with the colors being too light on the printed paper, I downloaded an ICC profile from InkOwl and the colors printed more vibrant on the paper and I was satisfied. 

However, when I pressed the shirt, the black parts of my design turned a very nice forest green... like really green.

I am using a Gildan 50/50 shirt, pressed at 390F for 20 seconds.

Any ideas on how to get the blacks to stay black (ish) ?

I know getting exact blacks is hard sometimes, but I'd love it if I could just get a dark gray or something, definitely not green!

Thanks!


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## olga1 (May 11, 2014)

you must used 100% polyester t-shirt


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## kary.francisco (Jan 14, 2019)

Oh ok, I was under the impression that I could use blends, but the color wouldn't be as vibrant. I didn't think they'd turn out as different colors entirely.


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## olga1 (May 11, 2014)

print on 100% poly and see what happen


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## webtrekker (Jan 28, 2018)

The best you'll ever get on a 50/50 poly/cotton blend will be a shade of grey, not dark black. Actually, have you washed any of your 50/50 blends yet? You'll find the colours severely washed ut on the first wash.


Strangely enough, all the posts I've read concerning your problem have been mainly Epson printers. I've never had this problem with blacks and my Ricoh.


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## kary.francisco (Jan 14, 2019)

Hm ok. I would have been quite happy with grey. I just didn't want green.
What Ricoh printer do you have?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

390 at 20 sec? Never done 50/50 shirts but 20 secs at 390 on poly would not even be close to the right time needed, especially to release black. At 390 you need to be at around 45 seconds. Please note that 390 is just what your digital display shows and does not mean it is accurate. You would need gauge to make sure it is close as many presses it is off.


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## kary.francisco (Jan 14, 2019)

Hm ok, I'll take that into consideration. Thank you!


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

kary.francisco said:


> Hm ok, I'll take that into consideration. Thank you!


No problem - you can press 390 for 20 secs for the rest of your life and you will never get the ink to vaporize to the point of giving you the colors dye sub is known for.


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## FatPrints (Jan 8, 2019)

My standard temp and time for any sublimation on apparel is 375 for 60 seconds. I swear by this. I also agree that 50/50 blends always look dull and wash out, however 60/40 and higher works surprisingly well and doesn't wash out as quickly as the 50/50s. I also use a Ricoh. just so you know, the colos on sublimation paper always look dim compared to the color it releases on the shirt. Try sublimating on a poly dominant shirt and see if you're happier with the results.


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## majik122 (Jan 24, 2017)

I use gildan g800's which are 50/50 cotton poly. The colors stay bright the black is BLACK albeit they do fade a tad after a couple washes but it gives it that vintage feel. My customers love them so much more than a 100% poly tee which will is just too silky for most. I use the gildan exclusively for sub and have had ZERO complaints. I wear about 4 different ones and they have hardly faded at all. I use inxpro refillable inks along with their own ICC profile on a epson 7210. Works for me. I press for 45-50 sec at about 385.


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

majik122 said:


> My customers love them so much more than a 100% poly tee which will is just too silky for most.


There are now a number of shirts including Vapor that have 100% poly shirts that feel exactly like cotton. You do not have to chose between great colors or cotton like feel, you can have both.


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## majik122 (Jan 24, 2017)

Signature Series said:


> There are now a number of shirts including Vapor that have 100% poly shirts that feel exactly like cotton. You do not have to chose between great colors or cotton like feel, you can have both.


I'm in Canada and the vapor aren't that widely available at least through my wholesale suppliers. I have heard nothing but great stuff about them and I'd LOVE to try them but the ones I've seen here are at least double to triple the price of the gildan g800.


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## tamaralig (Jan 27, 2019)

The best way to gauge how your color may print if you're going to use a blend is take and print an RGB profile to a blended shirt. Usually gray does offset the black. Your substrate (Shirt) that you pick sets the tone for all your colors in the printed image. Someone else mentioned too, the wash out point, washing you're going to loss most of the colors, from my own experience my blacks lighten to gray or brown. Green and Red typically makes black so you may want to factor that in when you're printing to gray. Blue and Yellow mixed produces green usually. So your tones are offsetting. I pretty new to this myself but I started with printing RGB Profiles then pressing them to different color shirts to see what tones it will make. So far my 100% poly have been spot on and I'm using an Epson 7710 without an installed/downloaded iCC profile.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

majik122 said:


> I'm in Canada and the vapor aren't that widely available at least through my wholesale suppliers. I have heard nothing but great stuff about them and I'd LOVE to try them but the ones I've seen here are at least double to triple the price of the gildan g800.


yup, double to triple the price is the norm in canada
making them far too expensive

try the m&o 3541 fine blend tee, 
they are a 60/40 blend, much softer than the g800's
another option for 50/50's if you want to stick with gildan are the 6400 softstyle heathers


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## weiom (Aug 2, 2019)

OP, @kary.francisco - wondering how's it going? Ill have a similar setup soon and anxious to start.

I am going with Epson 7720 and InkxPro so far. Wondering if longer Press time (45 seconds - 60 seconds) solved your issue?? Thank you.


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## JIMMY34 (Jan 20, 2010)

weiom said:


> OP, @kary.francisco - wondering how's it going? Ill have a similar setup soon and anxious to start.
> 
> I am going with Epson 7720 and InkxPro so far. Wondering if longer Press time (45 seconds - 60 seconds) solved your issue?? Thank you.


Andy at InkXPro is awesome and the inks from him don't clog the Epson WF's like Cobra Inks do...I've had great success with InkXPro...

I've been doing sublimation for 8+ years and when doing partial sublimation on 100% poly we swear by 385 degrees for 38-40 seconds...some do more than 40 seconds but we've not seen the slightest difference at all with more that 40 seconds...use the ICC profile Andy has and you'll be fine for PC's, for Mac, it's a completely different game and we do NOT use a profile, we just use a certain setting and get incredible colors as well...


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## weiom (Aug 2, 2019)

JIMMY34 said:


> Andy at InkXPro is awesome and the inks from him don't clog the Epson WF's like Cobra Inks do...I've had great success with InkXPro...
> 
> I've been doing sublimation for 8+ years and when doing partial sublimation on 100% poly we swear by 385 degrees for 38-40 seconds...some do more than 40 seconds but we've not seen the slightest difference at all with more that 40 seconds...use the ICC profile Andy has and you'll be fine for PC's, for Mac, it's a completely different game and we do NOT use a profile, we just use a certain setting and get incredible colors as well...


How about Tri Blends? Ever done those? like 50 poly, 25 cot, 25 rayon.


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## Winnieapoo143 (Jun 7, 2020)

JIMMY34 said:


> Andy at InkXPro is awesome and the inks from him don't clog the Epson WF's like Cobra Inks do...I've had great success with InkXPro...
> 
> I've been doing sublimation for 8+ years and when doing partial sublimation on 100% poly we swear by 385 degrees for 38-40 seconds...some do more than 40 seconds but we've not seen the slightest difference at all with more that 40 seconds...use the ICC profile Andy has and you'll be fine for PC's, for Mac, it's a completely different game and we do NOT use a profile, we just use a certain setting and get incredible colors as well...



I’m using InkXPro ink on an Epson 7710 printing direct from PS. Care to share your printer settings? Grey seems to be the biggest issue with my colors. Thanks !
Kate
[email protected]


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

Winnieapoo143 said:


> I’m using InkXPro ink on an Epson 7710 printing direct from PS. Care to share your printer settings? Grey seems to be the biggest issue with my colors. Thanks !
> Kate



kate are you on windows or mac?

epson will override your icc in ps unless you manually switch it off in the printer settings before printing

- go to 'custom' 'advanced' in the color correction box in the epson print dialog
- then 'no color adjustment'

below is a good test print (just right-click on it and 'save link target as')


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## LancerFlorida (Mar 20, 2018)

(SUBLIMATION) I had exactly the same config, Epson 7710 and InkX. When printing just black ink the result was that obvious green skew. To fix this I had to monkey with the color CMY to formulate a 'rich black" or defalt the printer to a B/W mode.
I eventually moved to Cobra 4.3 inks and their Epson driver settings (RGB, G1.8) I change only the density based on the T brand.


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## Gizmogirl256 (Jan 19, 2021)

LancerFlorida said:


> (SUBLIMATION) I had exactly the same config, Epson 7710 and InkX. When printing just black ink the result was that obvious green skew. To fix this I had to monkey with the color CMY to formulate a 'rich black" or defalt the printer to a B/W mode.
> I eventually moved to Cobra 4.3 inks and their Epson driver settings (RGB, G1.8) I change only the density based on the T brand.


Hi hoping to resurrect this thread, with a similar issue. I'm new to sublimation and here's my setup:

Epson 7720 using InkOwl sublimation D ink on InkOwl (and I tried A-Sub) paper
I've installed the InkOwl ICM files and turned off the printer color management.
I've set Photoshop to manage the color matching using the InkOwl settings
Testing on a sublimation blank mousepad/placement at 400 F for 30 secs.

Here is my printed page (yes, I forgot to reverse it!) and also attached the two attempts. Top one is at 35 sec and the lower is at 30 secs.
Thoughts on why my grays are coming out so green?


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

try printing from another program, like your simple image viewer with the icm
then press for suggested time and temp and post pic


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## Gizmogirl256 (Jan 19, 2021)

Done. I did a nozzle check, everything is clear on that front. I printed from my Mac preview window and confirmed that the InkOwl profiles were being used.
On the attached, the top print is 400 F @ 30 secs. I checked the top plat temp with an infrared thermometer that I had and it was actually at 424 F. I lowered the press to 380 F @ 30 secs (thermometer read 402F), but you can see from the lower image attached, it's not enough. Image is pretty washed out.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

infrared thermometers are good for precision not accuracy, use paper strips for accuracy

try printing and pressing some light grey to black bars using only the black cartridge


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## Gizmogirl256 (Jan 19, 2021)

First, thank you for helping me out on this. It sucks when you're a newbie and haven't gotten to the basic...how to debug issues level of knowledge yet! Here are two samples, printed from viewer window and selected Black & White. One is on the same placemat/mousepad material, the other a random piece of polyester. The black ink doesn't seem to be the problem!


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

i think you need to check your black point compensation in ps and either turn it on or off and see if there is a difference

can you print with no icc and see how it presses

send me a pm with your email and i can send you some other icc's for hard and soft substrates to try

could just be your ink, do you have access to any other ink (even the oem carts)

if you are on windows, you can designate the inkowl icc as the default and don't let adobe color manage at all, and see what happens

you're workspace in ps is not cmyk is it?
it should be rgb


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## Gizmogirl256 (Jan 19, 2021)

into the T said:


> i think you need to check your black point compensation in ps and either turn it on or off and see if there is a difference
> 
> can you print with no icc and see how it presses
> 
> ...


Cool. Let me work through a couple of these scenarios and take pics tomorrow. I currently have the black point compensation turned off as the Ink Owl instructions specifically called out that setting. I'm on a Mac but I'm pretty sure I can work around Adobe color management thru ColorSync. I did confirm that I'm using RGB in PS.


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