# Monogram on onsie (lightweight knit)



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

HI,

I've purchased a futura CE-150 to get started in the monogram embroidery business. Right now I'm trying to get a letter on a onesie. I'm using Sulky's polymesh permanent stabilizer hooped, two layers of totally stable (ironed on), sticky spray to place the onesie in the hoop to the stabilizer and a water soluble topping. Here's the problem, the monogrammed letter stitches do not have a nice crisp edge, (looks like wiskers) and in some areas it looks like the thread skipped a stitch with the onesie showing up underneath. I've also tried a medium weight stabilizer with the same results. Does anyone have experience with this happening? I've researched stabilizers and it looks like I'm using the right products. I do know the lightweight knits are the hardest, but maybe someone has some tips I don't know about?

Well........thanks for any help!
Deb


----------



## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

dvhantiques said:


> HI,
> 
> I've purchased a futura CE-150 to get started in the monogram embroidery business. Right now I'm trying to get a letter on a onesie. I'm using Sulky's polymesh permanent stabilizer hooped, two layers of totally stable (ironed on), sticky spray to place the onesie in the hoop to the stabilizer and a water soluble topping. Here's the problem, the monogrammed letter stitches do not have a nice crisp edge, (looks like wiskers) and in some areas it looks like the thread skipped a stitch with the onesie showing up underneath. I've also tried a medium weight stabilizer with the same results. Does anyone have experience with this happening? I've researched stabilizers and it looks like I'm using the right products. I do know the lightweight knits are the hardest, but maybe someone has some tips I don't know about?
> 
> ...



I sent you a PM.


----------



## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

Can you post a pictures? It may be a problem with the lettering rather than the stabilizer. It helps to see a pic so we can respond with appropriate info rather than just guessing at what might be happening.


----------



## American logoZ (Sep 16, 2009)

I just finished stitching 275 infant t's with an outline of a teddy bear, monogram of a hospital, and small font message. Approx 4000 stitches. Because I'm working on a single head, I took a little time before I started the job to experiment with just how many shortcuts I could get by with to save time. I altered the design probably a dozen times. Final results: I hooped (no sticky spray) sideways in the hoopmaster, taut but not tight, and used a medium but soft tearaway backing. No topping. I ironed on a fusible backing/covering after stitching. These stitched like a dream.

Because I got by with tearaway - and I taught my daughter to hoop during this job so we got by with some questionable hooping situations, too -I'm thinking your problem may be with the digitizing/design?


----------



## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

Several thoughts on this:

1. If you're using the built in lettering in the machine, that may be your problem. I have a Brother machine for the home market, and the built in lettering is virtually useless. I do all my lettering in Stitch Era Universal (a great free program).

2. There may be too much "sticky" going on here. I would use a light to medium weight cut away stabilizer. I don't hoop my stabilizers (too much waste)...I slip a piece underneath the hoop. I just watch when the hoop moves to take that first stitch, and quickly stop the machine if needed to mover the stabilizer back into place.

3. If you want to hoop with the sticky backing try this: hoop the sticky backing, take off the paper, then cut a hole in the middle. Think paper toilet seat cover....this way you can use sticky backing to hold the garment in place without having to sew through it. Slip a piece of stabilizer underneath after you've placed the hoop on the machine 

4. If you're not using a ball-point needle, try one...you will be surprised at the difference it makes in knits....especially delicate knits.


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

Hi all and thanks for all your responses. I am using a ballpoint needle. Also, I changed the embroidery setting to 3 instead of 4 and checked off add underlay as advised by another person. That helped a little. Went to a sewing store and spoke with the owner, she gave me a heavy weight plus cutaway stabilizer as she felt the Gerber onesie was so thin. That helped a little also. 

I had also embroidered another quality font from "embroidery arts" on another t-shirt and still had the same problems. So I don't think it's the futura lettering program. When I stitch it out on a cotton napkin, the edges are fine. Maybe I'm looking for perfection on the knits. I've attached a photo and like I said it's the edges of the letters I'm not happy with. I hope you can see from the px.

Thanks,
Deb


----------



## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

That looks pretty darn good in the photo. I too have a tendency to look for perfection where I'm never going to find it, so sometimes I find problems that really aren't there, and have to walk away from the item for a day or so to get a better perspective.

I too like to use a heavy cut-away for knits, but had suggested the medium weight because alot of people don't like that "show through". Still, you can trim it close enough to the letter that it won't be a problem. But then again, I don't use solvy on top of jersey knits either. 

The only other thing I can think of to try (and I can't remember if you said you already do this) is to put a little spray startch on the area you're going to embroider.

Beyond that, just for grins & giggles, try using a fill stitch with a running stitch border instead of the satin stitch if you have the software to do that.


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

HI!
I just got back from TJ Max and looked at all the embroidered clothes, from Carters to Ralph Lauren. I noticed they all had that same edge I'm complaining of. So I think it's just the way a lightweight knit stitches. It must be the way the needle picks up the threads on the cotton knit and you never wind up with a completely smooth edge finish the way you do on a cotton napkin.
I'm hoping the people I order my onesies through will be a bit thicker than the Gerber and Carters so you won't see the stabilizer underneath. I'll prolly have to iron on some "Dream Weave" as the stabilizer might be rough against a baby's skin.
Well, I guess now I can move on and practice merging letters so I can stitch out a scripted name.
Thanks,
Deb


----------



## LUV DEM TIGERS (Jul 25, 2008)

dvhantiques said:


> I'm hoping the people I order my onesies through will be a bit thicker than the Gerber and Carters so you won't see the stabilizer underneath.




You can buy a "no show diamond mesh" that you cannot see through the fabric no matter how lightweight it is.


----------



## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

From the picture it just looks like there's a density issue -- not dense enough. I agree that you definitely need underlay. Lately I've been liking edge run underlay whenever the letters are wide enough to support using edge run underlay. It seems like the edge run underlay gives the top stitches something firm to hold onto and give a less "fuzzy" edge.


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

Craig,
I was having a problem with the stitching and it seemed the heavy cutaway plus worked the best. Is the mesh you're talking about a heavy cutaway?
Thanks,
Deb


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

Hi Dave,
I'm not sure if I have an edge run underlay. I had to go into the embroidery properties on my machine to change the density from 4 to 3 and check a box in underlay. What is edge run underlay? Do you think I can do that on my machine?
Thanks,
Deb


----------



## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

Your machine will stitch whatever it is told to stitch. I don't know anything about the capabilities of your software though. There are many types of prebuilt underlay in my software and I can pick and choose among them to fit the material I'm embroidering upon. Like I said if the letters are wide enough (generally 2mm or more) I'll try to use edge run underlay set to inset 0.3 mm from the outline of the letter. Similarly, I don't know what the 3 vs 4 setting will get you for density with your software but when using 40w thread I like to have my stitches about 0.38 mm apart to give a solid look and not have gaps in the thread (40w thread is about .4mm thick so .38 allows for a slight overlap in the thread). If you are able to zoom in on the design on the computer and measure the distance between the stitches at a setting of 3 and at 4 you'll be able to tell what the different settings are doing to your density.

I wouldn't think a topping would be necessary on a onsie as the material is probably pretty smooth. I also wouldn't think you'd need all that much backing as this isn't a large or stich heavy design. I would think one layer of backing would be sufficient. As someone else said, make sure you aren't overly stretching the material in the hoop. If you overstretch the material when embroidering you are asking for puckering problems and other issues.


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

Dave,
I checked my machine and I do have that setting. Should I check that box and try it and still keep the box checked for underlay? Or just check the one box?
Thanks,
Deb


----------



## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

Time to experiment and learn the different settings of your software. Try one and then the other and see what happens. Experiment with the density. 

What you'll probably want to do is start a notebook with a bunch of plastic page protectors and put the sewouts with notes about the settings used to produce the sewout into each sleeve. 

Same thing with different backings. As a guide though, I use solvy on all pique shirts, towels or anything with a thick nap that I want to mat down. I use double zigzag underlay on towels/thick nap items to mat the fibers down. I use a single layer of backing on low stitch count designs or on a stable garment. If the material I'm embroidering on is thin (t-shirt-like then I start thinking about two layers of backing to prevent puckering). On the onsie I'd lean towards the one layer of backing because you are only doing one small letter.

Eventually, you'll start to learn what works and what doesn't for you.


----------



## dvhantiques (Jan 9, 2010)

Thanks Dave. My machine comes with a 94 page manual, but just basic stuff and actually nowhere in the manual did it even mention the embroidery settings, I found that out from a futura forum that I'm in. But I will start experimenting with those settings.
Deb


----------

