# White Mesh Vs. Yellow Mesh



## montev (Apr 5, 2010)

I have been using yellow 110s and 160s mesh count screens. I recently purchased some white 110s and 156s. I would burn the yellow screens for 6 minutes and they wash out perfect for both mesh counts...it takes like a minute to wash out. When I do this with the white mesh, it takes forever to wash out, sometimes 15 to 20 minutes. I even had one that was a finer detail on the 156 that wouldn't wash out at all. Any suggestions?


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## Celtic (Feb 19, 2008)

The main thing with yellow mesh is that you don't get the potential of refraction/reflection of light travelling on the fibers, like you can with white mesh. 
Lower mesh counts usually have white mesh, because it's not such an issue.

I can't imagine why one would be more difficult to rinse than the other.
Same emulsion on each?
Did you prep (degrease) each one the same? 
Did you have any remnants of old emulsion on your screen ?


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## montev (Apr 5, 2010)

Everything done the same...same emulsion, same prep done with degrease...no old emulsion left on the screen. Wonder if shortening the burn time on the white screens would help?


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## redlinecol (Jul 13, 2011)

yellow mesh always takes a longer exposure time than white...reduce your exposure time


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## Flagrant-T (Nov 11, 2009)

What redlinecole said...If yellow is at 6 minutes, start at 4 minutes for the same mesh in white.

Good luck!
Nick


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

Agree with Nick and Colin...

I have always heard there is no need for yellow mesh at 156 and under... only at higher mesh would it become a factor.


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## Flagrant-T (Nov 11, 2009)

Good point Troy. For me I have yellow at 230 and above, below that white.


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## Tj Ryonet Tech (Jul 28, 2008)

White mesh has more light refraction than a dyed mesh. In other words light will scatter on a white mesh causing a less resolute image.


White is usually used in lower mesh counts, up to 155 count, which typically are used, for spot color work or larger text.


Yellow or dyed mesh, has very little light refraction. In other words you get a much truer image, resulting in a more defined edge and a crisper print. On counts above 155 you would typically use a dyed mesh.


One thing to keep in mind, is that a dyed mesh will have a bit longer exposure time than a white mesh, say 15-20%.


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## ScreenFoo (Aug 9, 2011)

I'd seriously consider picking up an exposure calculator. Yellow mesh is not all dyed the same color, and it changes with age and the chemicals you cycle it with.

We actually do something like 25% more time on yellow, 40% on orange.

And don't let anyone tell you "You don't need dyed mesh under 156."

Maybe most people don't, but we do.


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