# Halftone separations w/o rip, w/o Postscript printer



## ReneBraches (Jun 28, 2008)

Hi folks,
this is my first thread, please forgive me, if I make one or another mistake.
I live in Bonn/Germany and I am a Screenprinter for some months now.

Here is what I found out:

*"Making halftone plates / separations without rip software, without postscript printer".
*Author: Jeff Harrison
All you need is Corel Draw and Corel Paint and/or Adobe Photoshop. 

It works fine for me, and I am sure not to buy a rip software for around 500 $ the next few month.

Here is the link (including sample file, video, instructions):

Jeff Harrison's Daily Diversion: Quick ?N? Dirty Halftone Separations

PLease let us know about your experiences.
Thanks and good luck








Rene


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## darwinchristian (Aug 24, 2007)

If you are planning on outputting halftones without a rip program i suggest you use ghostview and ghostscript. it's free, and it works.

here's a tutorial with a lot of info: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t27267.html


good luck.


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## bugnaw (Jul 8, 2008)

For me, I always work with TIF seldom with JPEG format:

1. Open the image file to Photoshop, see it in the CMYK channels and save each channels in grayscale.

2, Open each grayscale file in QuarkXpress and do all the halftones, frequency, angles you like.

3. Print it on any laser jet printer. On the HP1220C inkjet, there's an option in the print menu for a "photocopy/fax" output for the halftones to be printed out.

_There was an *Adobe Press Ready* software before use to emulate RIP on inkjets but they stop selling it since year 2000?? _


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## berryhang (May 29, 2008)

Hi ReneBraches~

Have you printed on tee shirt? I am little confused. Some people said using Rip program, some people said use postscript printer and some people said just use Photoshop is ok. Also I checked ghostscript tutorial in this forum. I can’t imagine how the result becomes in printed on tee shirt. 

Thank you for sharing


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## dann (May 27, 2008)

Any of the methods suggested will work. I prefer ghostscript, myself.

Just different ways to get you to the same place.


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## ReneBraches (Jun 28, 2008)

Hi berryhang,
it's like dann said: there are several ways to (nearly) get the same results. 
If you print your films with an EPSON inkjet printer as an example, rip software (like accurip) will do the better job, because the flms will be more crispy and sharper and a better opacity . A rip software will not only do the separation job but also tells the printer to take more ink etc..
IMHO the very best result you will get with professional films, the ones used by offset printing companies. These films are more expensive and are not allways to get within a couple of hours. Its up to you. Good luck.


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