# Laser point 24" and the RS232 cable



## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just unboxed my laser point 24" cutter, and went through starting to put it together. then i noticed that my computers dont have an RS232 cable input for the cutter cable.

is there a replacement that i cant use for another kind of jack on my computer. 

i just tried going to uscutters live support and i am getting no response from them, and i am currently on hold for bestbuy( been on for 20mins ringing. ) please help me.

what do i do.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just read that newer computers have this rs232 cable built in with the usb cable, so do i even need this cable?


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i am finding nothing anyone know if i can just use the usb with my laptop.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

My laserpoint 24" works fine with my netbook through the usb jack.
You might want to unplug a mouse that is using a usb port to keep full power to the cutter. You can download the software right from the internet if you don't have a disk drive.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i just unboxed my laser point 24" cutter, and went through starting to put it together. then i noticed that my computers dont have an RS232 cable input for the cutter cable.
> 
> is there a replacement that i cant use for another kind of jack on my computer.
> 
> ...


The LP24 is designed to run on USB or RS 232 connection.
Make sure you install the banana driver CD to install the FTDI driver for USB connection and follow directions exactly.
I had intermittant communication problems using the USB with my laptop running Windows 7. I now use a RS232 to USB adapter cable that solved all my issues.
Here's a link if you need it http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-signs-decals/t102454.html


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

ty im going to start trying to instal it now, i was afraid to start becuase of the lock up warning in the manual.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

well its the next day now, i have intalled inkscape and signcutpro and inkscape through the email from us cutters, and i have the drivers installed.

i am not seeing signblazer on my computer how do i get signblazer from uscutters?, because it didnt come in the box


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## taricp35 (Dec 10, 2008)

They don't send it anymore. You down load it from the computer and run it in trial mode. Here is the link: Full SignBlazer Elements Install - Powered By Kayako SupportSuite


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i found the setup exe file before your reply but thank you, is it true that i cant download the set up on two different computers and install signblazer, on both computers?


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## taricp35 (Dec 10, 2008)

you can as I have it on my laptop and my desktop computer. I think the company is now defunct which is why you can only run it in trial mode meaning that it is not monitored.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i found the setup exe file before your reply but thank you, is it true that i cant download the set up on two different computers and install signblazer, on both computers?


You may be thinking of Signcut Pro.
SC Pro comes with a 1 year subscription with 5 transfers allowed. If you install on two computers, every time you switch computers 1 transfer will be recorded. So if you switched computers 5 times in two weeks you would loose 50 weeks from your subscription. The only way to solve this would be to buy SC Pro with a dongle.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i have sign cut pro, sign blazer trial ( fullversion ), inkscape, and corel draw. 

i create them on corel, vectorize them on inkscape, and i group them together, then i save them as an eps file and go to sign blazer and try to "import" it and i cant find it. then i try to "open' it and still cant find it. 

what am i doing wrong?

and 

is sign cut pro or sign blazer better to use?


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i have sign cut pro, sign blazer trial ( fullversion ), inkscape, and corel draw.
> 
> i create them on corel, vectorize them on inkscape, and i group them together, then i save them as an eps file and go to sign blazer and try to "import" it and i cant find it. then i try to "open' it and still cant find it.
> 
> ...


Sorry I don't use Signblazer, so not sure how to import. I use Illustrator and Signcut Pro. If you are used to Corel Draw, why would you need Inkscape? Corel Draw is a vector program that can be used with SC Pro as a plug in.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

Nvr2Old said:


> Sorry I don't use Signblazer, so not sure how to import. I use Illustrator and Signcut Pro. If you are used to Corel Draw, why would you need Inkscape? Corel Draw is a vector program that can be used with SC Pro as a plug in.


i actually use corel painter essentials. because its awesome to draw on with a touch screen computer.

can i still use this to vectorize?


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i actually use corel painter essentials. because its awesome to draw on with a touch screen computer.
> 
> can i still use this to vectorize?


OK, now it makes sense. Corel Painter is not a vector program. So yes your images must be vectorized 1st. You may want to consider Corel Draw to create designs so you don't have an extra step to do. It's fairly reasonable through the internet. Or learn SignBlazer for free. SB is a little quirky. There is more info on it at USCutter Vinyl Cutter and Sign Making Forum - Index


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

well i can transfer my image to inkscape, but then when i save it as an eps file, i cant find it in the "open" area of sign blazer. do i have to make a new folder or something? 

and

after i vectorize something does that make it ready to cut?


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## stuffnthingz (Oct 1, 2007)

you still need to perform an import in Signblazer. If your file is too detailed you will need to re-vecorize it again in Inkscape to lower the details down to something Signblazer can handle. It took me counteless hours of experimentation to come up with a workable solution. I am sure if I wanted to spend $$ I could have a simple one step process, but heck, this is more of a challenge! Good luck


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> well i can transfer my image to inkscape, but then when i save it as an eps file, i cant find it in the "open" area of sign blazer. do i have to make a new folder or something?


When you save the file in Inkscape, watch where the file is being saved to, or navigate to the desktop and create a new folder to save it there. Then when you open Signblazer you will know where to navigate to open your file. 


adammnq said:


> after i vectorize something does that make it ready to cut?


Pretty much yes, but make sure you view in wire frame mode (preview mode with no colors) so you can see exactly how it will cut. You don't want any duplicate cut lines.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i will try dulling the cutting pattern out more and see if i can load the picture. im just printing out my design from the my epson 1400 on transfer paper, and i just need to make sure the outside lines of the picture match up around my designs and the cutter can cut the object or obects out of my transfer paper.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i can just do all of this in sign blazer trail mode right, because i bought my laser point 24" and i tried to do the activation code thing and i still havent gotten the email


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i will try dulling the cutting pattern out more and see if i can load the picture. im just printing out my design from the my epson 1400 on transfer paper, and i just need to make sure the outside lines of the picture match up around my designs and the cutter can cut the object or obects out of my transfer paper.


You might want to practice cutting a bit before tackling a contour cut.
Setting up a contour cut will involve adding registration marks to your graphic image and making sure your contour cut file is only drawn around the graphic object. The reg marks must be in the exact same position on your printed graphic and on your cut file for the contour cut to work correctly.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i can just do all of this in sign blazer trail mode right, because i bought my laser point 24" and i tried to do the activation code thing and i still havent gotten the email


 Trial mode in SignBlazer is fully functional. It is not possible to register SB because the owner passed away. Ownership of the program is kind of in limbo.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

damn, im really only need to do contour cuts, and i can probably do basic cuts with contour cutting also.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> damn, im really only need to do contour cuts, and i can probably do basic cuts with contour cutting also.


Have you read the manual for SignBlazer yet?
Here is a link that is for the manual SignBlazer Manuals - Powered By Kayako SupportSuite


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i am going to read it now i guess it should solve my problems hopefully.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

where do i go to add the plotter dots and contour lines.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

sign cutprot seems to work alot better then sign blazer im about to just use that.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> sign cutprot seems to work alot better then sign blazer im about to just use that.


I prefer Signcut over Signblazer because I was familiar with Illustrator. Signcut is a cut only program that plugs into Illustrator, Corel Draw and Inkscape. I found Signblazer is OK for free, but I felt it was kind of old school for me.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

why is my drawing so zoomed in on sign cut pro after i open it on there. 

also after i vectorize on inkscape, can i just open it on sign cut pro and click cut.i just want to be able to cut around


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> why is my drawing so zoomed in on sign cut pro after i open it on there.


Your graphic should be filling the screen in SC Pro, but should not be zoomed in on just a part of the graphic, this is normal.



adammnq said:


> also after i vectorize on inkscape, can i just open it on sign cut pro and click cut.i just want to be able to cut around


Yes, you should be able to open it with SC Pro and click on the cut icon. If you want to contour cut, you would go to the "special cutting" drop down menu to use the contour cut routine.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i cant find "special cutting" on signblazer, where is it located?

i learned how to import files onto sign blazer, and vectorize them on there, then i press cut and get the big picture of some vinyl and a cutter, next i press cut and it says please select a cutter and set media width and length. i pressed ok and the cutter setup screen pops up, then i go to look for the laser point 24" in the cutter drop box and its not there,

is this because i am only running my cutter from my laptop, through the factory usb, to the cutter?

or am i missing a few steps in here like plotting dots or something else simple?


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

also in the output device drop box i see usb001, usb002, send to microsoft onenote port, xps port, and summa port, but i am just using a usb. is this a problem


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

Next you want to make sure that direct is selected (right below output device). 

Then click the comm. settings button. The values in this screen should be: Baud:9600, Data bits:8, Parity:None, Stop bits:1, Flow control: Hardware. 



was my solution to finding it an establishing connections.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> Next you want to make sure that direct is selected (right below output device).
> 
> Then click the comm. settings button. The values in this screen should be: Baud:9600, Data bits:8, Parity:None, Stop bits:1, Flow control: Hardware.
> 
> ...


Glad you figured it out. I haven't used Signblazer in so long I couldn't remember.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

how do i get the rainbow grid not to print out over top of the picture when i print the image out of my epson 1400.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i am using the pen attachment. and trying to "cut" out my design, i have vectorized it and went to print, and put the registration marks in the picture. how do i use the optic eye to read the dots and just go the right way.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i am using the pen attachment. and trying to "cut" out my design, i have vectorized it and went to print, and put the registration marks in the picture. how do i use the optic eye to read the dots and just go the right way.


Print your graphic with reg marks, then if your using Signcut Pro use special cutting menu and choose contour cut. There is no optic eye on the LP24, just a laser alignment mark. Align the first reg mark then select continue, align second mark, then cut. I have never used Signblazer for contour cutting.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

these little squares numbered 1-93 appeared over my picture. are these tiles.


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

adammnq said:


> these little squares numbered 1-93 appeared over my picture. are these tiles.


SignBazer or Signcut Pro?


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

signblazer


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## Nvr2Old (Oct 14, 2009)

If you don't get an answer hear, try SignBlazer


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> these little squares numbered 1-93 appeared over my picture. are these tiles.


That shows how many tiles are in your art. You have gone into setup and set your vinyl size?
It sseems that it wants to cut 93 tiles!
You should be in the "Cut A Print" from the main page menu to do a coutour cut. You have to print it from the signblazer software.
Do you have the manual? You can download it here.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i have sized the page in workspace set up, but when i go to cut a print and click setup what should the size of my vinyl be at, if i am using sheets of paper 8.5x11 or 11x17


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## cbs1963 (May 31, 2007)

Adam, I would strongly encourage you to learn how to use the Laserpoint 24 for cutting vinyl first. Then when you are competent with how the machine functions, try adding contour cutting. The US Cutter forum has knowledgeable people with that experience. However, contour cutting is not a simple process. As for setting up the machine, The Serial cable is the best performing, its old tech but it is very reliable. USB is current tech but requires some luck in using with cutters. Sometimes the usb does not want to recognize the cutter. Seems each computer is different when it comes to usb. If you just can't get the usb to work, contact Ken Imes at US Cutter. If you are unable to establish a working usb connection, adding a serial port to your computer is not difficult. If you do add a serial card make sure the card will work with your operating system, XP, Vista 32, Vista 64, Win 7, etc. Hope this helps.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i have been reading the maual sailor papt put up here, it is getting me farther along in my work. and i think im almost done. right now im figuring out how to lay the images over top of each other, ive gotten the registration marks up and printed, with the original image, now i have the vectorized image and another one darker image to put over of each other. trying to figure out how to align.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just need to learn to align i think then i should be good. im having problems with this.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i have read the whole manual and gotten to the end and i am having trouble.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

how do i move the plotting dots in on the page?


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> i have read the whole manual and gotten to the end and i am having trouble.


I really wanted you to have the manual. I need to go back and check it myself.
To contour cut, I import my jpeg or png and do a black only trace then make my cut mask ( I forget to do the cut mask a lot of times if I don't use it for a few months).You have to have the cut mask (the 8th icon down on the manipulate menu on the main screen) on. I make the vector trace invisible and print with reg marks. I then delete the jpeg and go to "cut a print" making sure that my setting are right on the cutter and then cut it.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> how do i move the plotting dots in on the page?


I have not found a way to move them.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i keep getting the error intializing cutter.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

nvm on the intial izee error i went to cut a print , and a window with arrows popped up. i pushed next, then aligned with my keypad on my machine for the second one. i pressed next, then cut , 


and then , an unrecoverable error occoured it may be possible to save your file


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> nvm on the intial izee error i went to cut a print , and a window with arrows popped up. i pushed next, then aligned with my keypad on my machine for the second one. i pressed next, then cut ,
> 
> 
> and then , an unrecoverable error occoured it may be possible to save your file


Which port are you using for cutter setup menu? Com1 USB?
My Laptop has to use Com4 blazer serial-usb in the setup menu on the cutter screen.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

You are getting closer....


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

im using the same usb and com4


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just want to figure this out, T-T


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

for some reason i think i am missing something small with the dots or something.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

It took me a while to get it. I would not have the paper size right in the cutter setup or still have the jpg in the cut file, the cutter not in on line mode or something and that would happen to me. Have you been able to cut the file without the contour reg marks as just a cut file?
I have heard on the uscutter board that any error stays in the memory and you need to reboot the cutter, signblazer and your computer after an error. I have had to do that a few times when the program crashes. It is not the best cutting program but the price is right.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

that is one of my problems, im not sure what to put in the "vinyl size" under "cutter set up". i put 8 and 11 , thinking it would be 8x11, because it says inches/sec on there. 

did i do that right?

also when i try to cut im using a regular piece of paper for all of this testing and setup time, which probably isnt that smart. should i be using transfer paper.?


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

and what did you mean by cutting as just a cut file?


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i am reading the 7 hour training manual and checking back to this forum today. hope someones here.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i read the whole 7 hour manual, in 1 and a half hours, because most of it was stuff ive allready covered in this thread . but i got to adding the registration marks, and i figured out how to move them in some, but only on the right, by using the margin to move the right ones left.

but now i have to move the left ones right, ( im doing this because of my feeding wheels on the ls24. after i figure out how to move the dots in i need to figure out how to scan the registration marks with my LS24 and then i should be able to press cut and finish.

anyone know how to do these two things?


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> and what did you mean by cutting as just a cut file?


You should never cut just paper.
Drawing is OK.
If you use paper in the cutter, it should have some sort of carrier sheet under it so you don't ruin your cutting strip under the blade.
Have you got it to cut at all?
Or draw with the pen?
I always make my vinyl size bigger than my workspace size. 24"X300"

If you have not had it cut or draw anything yet, just try to make a box or something and send it to the cutter. You have to have communication with the cutter to contour cut.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just got it to cut out my design, but it was not inline with the printed image, and it cut through the paper, this time i used my 11x17 jpss transfer paper.


how do i stop it from cutting through the whole sheet of paper, and only cut out my designs over my printed image


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> i just got it to cut out my design, but it was not inline with the printed image, and it cut through the paper, this time i used my 11x17 jpss transfer paper.
> 
> 
> how do i stop it from cutting through the whole sheet of paper, and only cut out my designs over my printed image


 The amount of blade sticking out and pressure.
I think I use 80 on the pressure and very little blade sticking out. You can push the test button on the cutter when it is in jog mode.It will cut a 1X2 box. Check if you can pull the polymer out of the cut and it comes out clean. I use an exacto knife to lift it. It just cuts the polymer on the transfer and you weed out the part you don't use. Just the polymer with your image gets transfered when you press. I still use a carrier sheet under the jpss to keep from cutting the soft strip under the blade..


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> it was not inline with the printed image


 Was it off all the way or did it get off on the far end of the cut?
If it was off for the whole cut then you didn't have the reg marks lined up right under the laser.
If it started off good but got off at the far end then the X and Y setting on the cutter may need to be tweaked.
I had to change my X setting to around 25910 to get it to feed the right amount so the cut would match the print. It would start right on but be 1/8" off after 10" of cutting.
I burned up a lot of paper getting that right. Now it is good and the settings don't need to be changed. A little jpss outside the image is not a problem on most light shirts.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

it was above the printed image. im still not totally sure how to log the registration marks into the cutter.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just turned on my machine also and pressed the online button, and it says x:0.00 and y:0.00


i think im almost there. i need some help.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i set the pressure at 80 , and the x is at 25795 should i change it to 25190?


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> i set the pressure at 80 , and the x is at 25795 should i change it to 25190?


 Not yet....


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

how do i correctly log the marks with the laser to the cutter.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> it was above the printed image. im still not totally sure how to log the registration marks into the cutter.


I set the right reg mark right under the laser beam in the middle of the X when I click to cut I just push next for the right and line up the left mark with the keyboard (toggle fine tune arrows by pressing 5 on the keypad  I think) then next and cut. The X and Y settings on the last two modes only need to be changed if your printer is off a little, then you need to tweak the settings for the cutter to match the printer.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

I might of told you that last one wrong
If some of your design is right of the right reg dot the cutter might not cut it because it thinks that the end of the paper (right edge) is where you set the blade at.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

is the only way to add registration marks, by going to print and then clicking the registration marks button? 

because that allways puts the marks to close to the edge unless i move the margins, then the right one is the only one i can move.

i know in the 7 hour tutorial it shows a frog with only three marks, at awkward angles. how do i do this. 

then i only know how to move my laser with my machine but i dont know how to select the registration marks.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

ok here is a list of what i do in order to finish cutting can you please look at it and tell me what i am missing.

1. import bitmap
2. set up workspace
3. resize image in workspace
4. go to print, click registration marks.
5. print with registration marks on.
6. ( i think there is something missing in the registration marks section. because of the previous post about the frog. )
7. finish
8. monochrome
9. vectorize to "99"
10. delete back image
11. try to center image again in workspace.
12.cutter
13. paper size
14. cut
15. something goes wrong, either wheels crumble paper
or cutter misses image. 
this is my process so far can some one help me.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

4 and 5 should be after your # 11 and after # 9 you need to turn cut mask on, then you can delete black image and the picture should be in the cut mask. Then print. If you move any thing after you print then it will not be moved on the cut a print.
Paper bunching up....Use a carrier sheet for cutting. You can reuse it over and over.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

thank you, i am on the phone with uscutters and if i actually get through im gonna ask for a full walk through of the laserpoint 24 and signblazer.

and if not im gonna try your way might just try it while im on hold.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

he gave me this link. hope it helps someone. dunno if it works yet. 


http://support.uscutter.com/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=26&nav=0


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i got all of the directions followed, and i was about to push cut. but when i went to cut a print the image wasnt aligned in the center of the page any more, and also my cut line isnt going through all of my letters completely.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

any tips for me on that last post? or does this have to do with the 4 and 5 after the 11 and the 9. ( sailorpatp )


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

sailorpatp said:


> 4 and 5 should be after your # 11 and after # 9 you need to turn cut mask on, then you can delete black image and the picture should be in the cut mask. Then print. If you move any thing after you print then it will not be moved on the cut a print.
> Paper bunching up....Use a carrier sheet for cutting. You can reuse it over and over.


 i just went back through this and i cant vectorize before i print or the image will print out vectorized and blue.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> i just went back through this and i cant vectorize before i print or the image will print out vectorized and blue.


After you vectorize the image there are two images on your workspace. select the vector image make an outline and turn cut mask on then you can delete the vector image that you made or make it white and put to back of page, print with reg marks ( your original image should print) then you can cut a print.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i think i just got it but fed in the paper back wards.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i got the cut line working, but i cant get the nodes to be inside of the letters to cut out the inside of the letters. like the circle in "D" for example.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

adammnq said:


> i got the cut line working, but i cant get the nodes to be inside of the letters to cut out the inside of the letters. like the circle in "D" for example.


anyone?

ive been on this sight so much over the last 8-9 days i had a dream my tshirt avatar on the forums was this sick design with yellow and explosions and inspiration.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

anyone know how to crop an image in sign blazer i think if i just improt the picture and do the text in sign blazer i should have no more problems.


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## sailorpatp (Jun 19, 2008)

adammnq said:


> anyone know how to crop an image in sign blazer i think if i just improt the picture and do the text in sign blazer i should have no more problems.


 I think that you are getting a handle on this.
I have had to crop in my graphic program then import (Gimp is good and free). I have gotten into the habit of making a folder for each design with all the different files for the shirt. I will have a jpg, png, cdr, eps and sbd file in the folder so I can go in and use them again if I need to. I don't use signblazer to vectorize.....I use inkscape (free) or Corel draw. They do a much better job of it and you can import a vector eps file into signblazer.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i have the letters from sign blazer on my picture, and my design all vectorized on there. and the cutting lines around it. and the registration marks, and it should be able to cut, but it wont it will either freeze or shut down or just not cut even though it says it is.

the guy at uscutters said that they havent been able to cut on paper over 8.5 x 11. which i know i have done.

but i have to wait for their signblazer master to call me and help me out tomarrow.


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## adammnq (Jan 16, 2010)

i just talked to uscutters today and im trying to adjust the redeye offset for the carriage. i changed it from 6.30 to 6.42 . but i still need some more. there was just about an 8th of an inch distance between where it should have cut and the image.

it just cuts everything alittle to the left of the actual image.

anyone know what i should put the offset to?

instead of 6.42


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## Evo777 (Oct 17, 2009)

adammnq said:


> i just unboxed my laser point 24" cutter, and went through starting to put it together. then i noticed that my computers dont have an RS232 cable input for the cutter cable.
> 
> is there a replacement that i cant use for another kind of jack on my computer.
> 
> ...


I shared this just a few seconds ago on another thread but this was what I got:
Monoprice 15ft USB gold plated cable for 2 bucks. Haven't had any issues with it and it's long enough and I preferred it over the serial cable-usb cable (out dated IMO). I've purchased several times from Monoprice like HDMI cables and their stuff are excellent as well as the pricing.


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