# Perfect SOFT embroidery backing for thin vintage T-SHIRTS?



## HalfOunceofLife (Oct 2, 2011)

Hi! I recently just purchased a Happy Voyager 12 needle 1 head embroidery machine to begin doing embroidery in house. I usually embroider on mainly thin, vintage soft T-shirts. However I also want to get into embroidering hoodies, hats, and button up shirts. Can anyone point me into the right direction as far as what embroidery backing/topping? or method to use in order to get quality embroidery done without the stiffness or puckering like how popular designer brands are able to do?

Also. my main concern is to keep the soft feel of the fabric and not to have it pucker. Thanks friends!


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

We try to never embroidery on t-shirts. The material is just too thing. Having said that there are some ways to make it better. You can use a fusable backing after you embroider to cover the tie-offs and the backing. You should also use less density on thinner fabrics like t's. That will help.


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## jean518 (Sep 23, 2009)

No show mesh cutaway gets my vote. I use a clear washaway on top. The design needs to be digitized for the fabric you are putting it on. Do not expect a design digitized for a hoodie to work well on a T. Hats are a whole other subject. The design needs to be digitized for a hat. Hat designs usually work from the middle out.


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## freedomshop (May 24, 2011)

We just got a brother pr 650 and am looking for a stabilizer and instructions for embroidering on sweatshirt/hoodie material gildan 18500 and 12500. Any suggestions? Brands? Suppliers? What do I need to know...


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## jean518 (Sep 23, 2009)

Did you buy new? If so, you should get lessons with it which should include that info. I am a big fan of now show mesh cutaway on everything. I use a clear washaway on top. The mentioned sweatshirts are great to embroidery on.


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## freedomshop (May 24, 2011)

We bought the machine used, but have since upgraded to a 4 head tajima


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

You might consider limiting your T designs in size or in stitch count. In other words choose designs that are more suitable for light fabrics and digitized at lower stitch counts and make sure your digitizer knows the fabric type. I use solvy on top for thin fabrics and a soft cutaway for the back. Fabrictex makes a soft cutaway (their CM22) I really like.


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## Aplustshirts (Sep 5, 2016)

Hey, First of all check your bobbin pin and tension thread. Secondly there will be different underlays and density for every fabric so choose the best digitizing service first. I think Migdigitizing ? I have worked with them and they are really good and have vast knowledge on fabrics .


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## digidana (Jun 20, 2016)

never tried the mesh backing...i'll have to check it out! definitely make sure your designs are digitized for a light fabric. ask your digitizer for suggests on making the design "lighter". no turn fills (they will definitely pucker the fabric). a little lighter fill with a decent underlay. be careful if you use a digitizer that charges by stitch count. many of them will use a smaller stitch length, excessive underlay or a too-tight density to jack up the stitch count...and that won't work well on the light fabric!


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## Aplustshirts (Sep 5, 2016)

digidana said:


> never tried the mesh backing...i'll have to check it out! definitely make sure your designs are digitized for a light fabric. ask your digitizer for suggests on making the design "lighter". no turn fills (they will definitely pucker the fabric). a little lighter fill with a decent underlay. be careful if you use a digitizer that charges by stitch count. many of them will use a smaller stitch length, excessive underlay or a too-tight density to jack up the stitch count...and that won't work well on the light fabric!


There are some standard way of working , Those who charged by stitches that doesn't mean they will always use higher stitch density with lowest length stitches. You might be mistaken . Every company wants resisting customers so they always digitizing at its best.


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## digidana (Jun 20, 2016)

Aplustshirts said:


> There are some standard way of working , Those who charged by stitches that doesn't mean they will always use higher stitch density with lowest length stitches. You might be mistaken . Every company wants resisting customers so they always digitizing at its best.


i didn't say ALL digitizers, or even ALL designs. but there are many, MANY who do. i have to edit or redo their designs all the time because they are so stitch intensive, heavy, pucker, or just plain bad.


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## LTPEMB (Jul 10, 2015)

no show mesh is the only one that would feel soft. but don't do it. The embroidery usually is heavier than the shirt and sags and stretches around the logo in the wash. 

Ultimately the only way to get a good logo is put more backing but then the shirt falls apart quicker.


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