# Dark Shirt Transfer Paper And other questions



## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

So I've recently decided to start printing shirts.

So far I'm using the DuraCotton HT for Laser Printers (an OKI). Works really well on Light Shirts using high heat/ low time.

However some of my designs require a dark shirt. So after going through the other posts, I have a bunch of questions

- I'm looking at the Laser 1 Opaque for my dark shirts. Is this a decent paper?
- What colour do the opaques usually come in? (yes, stupid question, I know)
- Will I have to cut the opaques for every print?
- Where can I get good "carrier tape"?

Other questions
- Right now I'm using 100% cotton. Will a 50-50 blend have a signficant effect on my prints (for both light and dark)?

Appreciate any kind of help.


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

For me, the Laser1 Opaque is acceptable, although compared to Forever's dark pInklines opaque, the Laser1 has a stiffer feel. It's cheaper though, that's why I have it, about 50% cheaper than Forever dark.


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## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

Thanks, I'll look into the other paper too. I guess for a startup, Laser 1 is decent.


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

A lot of times, the quality of the shirt will have an effect on opaque transfers. I think there was a post on another thread saying that a 50/50 dark shirt bled its colors on the opaque transfers. This has also happened to me before.


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## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

I came across that one too. Thats good to know. Thanks.


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

robourg - I also have the same setup as you (oki 3400 with duracotton ht)..
Do you also have a cutter to trim around the design for this laser1 opaque transfer paper? If not, how do you manage to remove the image from the paper backing?


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

I have a jaguar cutter, and a roland versacamm print &cut machine, but I normally just use an ordinary pair of scissors to cut the unwanted (and unprinted) "white portion" of the opaque transfers. Then I just peel off the backing sheet and press.


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Really, with scissors?
I was initially going to do that but thought

1- it would not look that good since the smallest unprinted space that wasn't cut properly with scissors will show up as white. 

2- Cutting with scissors might leave jagged edges and not perfectly straight (or round) cuts

3- it must also be very time consuming!

4- can't use scissors for cutting out words alone - they will have to be within some sort of design.

Don't get me wrong, If i can get away with using simple scissors then thats great but I'd like to be able to have a quality end product that could be sold too..

Any tips on how to overcome these problems would be greatly appreciated.


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

Some points here:
1, 2, & 4) Using Opaque transfers will always have it's special characteristics (imperfections) that makes it different from screen printing. But I'm using it since it also has it's advantages, like doing one pc orders, pictures, etc. With this in mind, I always do the designs in such a way that it can easily be cut by scissors, like making a border around the small texts, and using colors in such a way that the border will be a good/acceptable part of the design. Sometimes, I even make two color borders, etc. On graphics with text, I'm always thinking of a way to do the design so that I could cut it in 1 piece. Lastly, I could also make a border with a color similar/very close to the shirt color, so that the jagged edges will be quite unnoticeable.
3) I find that doing opaque transfers and cutting with scissors consumes less time than using my cutter and flex/vinyl transfers. I could also use the "solvent-dark" transfers printed and cut on my roland versacamm but it also takes more time and is more expensive for the customer (but on an order of say, 20 to 100 shirts, this takes less time). I do give my customers choices on what process they want me to use.

Of course, some cases warrants that I outsource to a screen printer. This is also up to the customer.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Stay away from Forever Dark it cracks badly if thrown in the dryer. Hang drying it seems to be holding up longer but not everybody pays attention to washing instruction including the wife, he he.

Not sure though if Forever Dark has been improved since I tried it. Until then beware.

Luis


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

How about the Laser1 Opaque Transfers, from Neenah Papers?


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Yes, I was also looking into this paper - Laser1 Opaque.

From the threads, It sounds as it's the best thing there so far..

Apparently there's a paper called WOW 7.1 which isn't out yet but from what people have seen, it sounds like it will be THE paper for opaque. I think it's a one step no trimming required type of paper to be used for laser printer.. 

The creaters of Duracotton are also supposed to be coming out with a similar product.. Can't wait!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> Yes, I was also looking into this paper - Laser1 Opaque.
> 
> From the threads, It sounds as it's the best thing there so far..
> 
> ...


Even if it is available it is not affordable yet at least to me anyway. I was told it cost 2.5 British Pounds that converts to $5.088 at the present going currency exchange rate. It can be economical if it is cut up in crest or credit card size logo which limits you to that type of order in dark shirt. I do a lot of full size on the back and crest size in the front and that puts me out as a user. Just too rich for my blood.


Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

That is really expensive! Looks like i'll get used to cutting then until prices dropa little - if they will


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## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

meyerlanski said:


> robourg - I also have the same setup as you (oki 3400 with duracotton ht)..
> Do you also have a cutter to trim around the design for this laser1 opaque transfer paper? If not, how do you manage to remove the image from the paper backing?


 
I haven't yet done any prints on the Laser 1 Opaque yet. I'm going to do a trial prints soon and will let you know how they turn out. From what I've gleaned, keeping the the design simple is key to being able to cut it out with scissors. I've tried other papers and as long as your scissor is sharp, you shouldn't have any issues with rough edges. The alternate is using a pen exacto knife for the little spaces. Time-consuming, yes, but the other more expensive alternative is the cutter.

Hope that helps.

Does anyone know good quality heat tape? (to transfer the opaques to the shirt surface without losing the placement of images) Or is there a cheap alternative?


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

roboug said:


> Does anyone know good quality heat tape? (to transfer the opaques to the shirt surface without losing the placement of images) Or is there a cheap alternative?


I'm also been waiting/looking for this cheap alternative for a long time. Maybe something's out there that you can find in a Hardware, DIY stores, office supply stores.


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## wafferice (Jul 13, 2007)

Hi guys,

I'm also new to the t-shirt business; I'd like to know what printer is best to use with the laser 1 Opaque transfer paper? CLC printers are very expensive. Are there printers that are <$2000 with a decent quality? Thanks


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

wafferice said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm also new to the t-shirt business; I'd like to know what printer is best to use with the laser 1 Opaque transfer paper? CLC printers are very expensive. Are there printers that are <$2000 with a decent quality? Thanks


 
Staples has special on Color Laser printers. The rebate is ranging from $50 to $200. The price range after rebate is from $349.98 to $599.98. The highest price without discount is $899.98

Stay with Okidata. Any of the Okidata Color Laser printer listed will work. It is up to what you can afford.

Luis


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## wafferice (Jul 13, 2007)

How many washes can you do before the design fades away, though?


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## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

I did my first test with the Oki 3400 and the Opaque 1 Laser paper. The ink did not hold to the paper and so half the image had ink goo spread over the rest of the sheet. In addition, whenever I use the Duracotton sheets, the print does not adhere directly to the sheet.

Does anyone know why these 2 things occur? Are there particular settings I have to maintain (I'm asking because to the best of my knowledge, I'm following the directions for printing sent by paper manufacturers)

Using the good half of the test Laser 1 opaques on a test T yielded good results. One thing to keep in mind, I think, is to make the colours more vibrant on the print, because when it is heat pressed WYSIWYG. Also, be careful when handling the sheets after printing as they tend to smudge.

Thanks


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Hi Roboug,
I can't speak about imageclip as I only tried one sample which i messed up  
But as for Duracotton HT paper, here are the settings you should change within the printer menu:
- Paper type should be glossy

-Saturation should be -25 so less toner is wasted (this could be changed but if you add too much then you might notice a little fading after first wash). I set mine to -15 and it was fine but I know others set it to -30

-When printing, make sure to use the manual paper tray so that the paper doesn't not fold in the printer- it's a straight path all the way through.

- Blacks should be set to true black and not composite (this is optional)

- Prior to printing on the duracotton sheet, open word (or any other program like notes) and print 10 blank sheets just to heat the fuser up. If you don't you might get some smudges on the paper.

Thats about it! As for pressing, follow their directions on the autoart website.. They also have tips for OKI 3400 and other printers to help provide optimal results.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

roboug said:


> I did my first test with the Oki 3400 and the Opaque 1 Laser paper. The ink did not hold to the paper and so half the image had ink goo spread over the rest of the sheet. In addition, whenever I use the Duracotton sheets, the print does not adhere directly to the sheet.
> 
> Does anyone know why these 2 things occur? Are there particular settings I have to maintain (I'm asking because to the best of my knowledge, I'm following the directions for printing sent by paper manufacturers)
> 
> ...


I am not familiar with Opaque 1. Is it a one step transfer paper?

Sounds like the toner is not fused solid on the paper. What is the media setting the you use? Try using thicker or heavier media setting. I was told by Okidata tech support that the heavier or thicker the media setting the hotter the fuser gets. The printer compensates the fuser temperature for the media weight so that the toner will fuse properly on the media.

Too much toner can be bad also because the polymer might not be able to bind all all of it on the opaque transfer paper or the garment when using transfer for light like Duracotton. Some of the toner will just be sitting on top waiting to be washed off during laundry.

Luis

Luis


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## roboug (Jun 19, 2007)

Thanks Guys. 

So the gist of it is:

I needed a hotter fuser setting to make sure the image adheres to the paper.


Luis:

Laser 1 Opaque is a 2 Step paper (Laser Printer Transfer Paper). I agree it might be that the ink did not fuse to the paper properly. However, when I pressed the design, it provided a very good result. The polymer adhered well to the fabric and the colours adhered well to the polymer. I still have to wash-test it though.

Considering you haven't heard of this paper, what would you suggest for darks?


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

roboug said:


> Laser 1 Opaque is a 2 Step paper (Laser Printer Transfer Paper).


I think the it's a single step paper.



roboug said:


> Considering you haven't heard of this paper, what would you suggest for darks?


Yes Luis, what would you suggest for darks? What's the best opaque papers out there?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

vctradingcubao said:


> I think the it's a single step paper.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes Luis, what would you suggest for darks? What's the best opaque papers out there?


Years ago I have tried Airwaves Inc.'s opaque transfer fabric. It is literally made of 100% poly fabric with adhesive backing. It is a two step process media. 

Here is the link: Air Waves Inc. - FABRIC OPAQUE 11X17

I tried a sample and the print came out fairly decent. I said that because at the time I was using thermal wax ink and it was not vibrant when pressed on a 100% poly fabric. The color was somewhat muted. The opaque transfer survived few washes. I can not remember how many times. I was not able to continue the wash test because the shirt disappeared. It may been given to veterans or goodwill. I can tell you this much the transfer did not crack after it has been through several washes and thrown in the dryer. It had fabric feel not like other opaque transfer that have a plastic and glossy appearance.

I have another piece that I can try with Imageclip. I have to blindly contour cut the blank opaque. Hopefully I can keep the cut inside the fabric. I made a mistake in buying a sign cutter that does not have optical registration option. The opaque is fairly thick so hopefully my sign cutter will cut it. Or I may just cut it with a pair of scissors. That is how made the sample print of Forever Dark.

You can call Airwaves and request for sample. I suggest that some of us do a sample and lets compare results using the transfer paper of your choice.

By the way attached is a photo of Forever Dark after it has been thrown in the dryer. Zoom it in to 200% and you will see what I mean. It is pretty bad. It's a shame I really liked it even though it had plastic appearance.


Luis


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> By the way attached is a photo of Forever Dark after it has been thrown in the dryer. Zoom it in to 200% and you will see what I mean. It is pretty bad. It's a shame I really liked it even though it had plastic appearance.
> 
> Luis


Luis, can we not just add a "wash instruction" saying that machine drying is an absolute NO-NO, and only "hang drying" or "drip to dry" is reccommended? Anyway, I think this would be applicable for all opaque transfers.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

vctradingcubao said:


> Luis, can we not just add a "wash instruction" saying that machine drying is an absolute NO-NO, and only "hang drying" or "drip to dry" is reccommended? Anyway, I think this would be applicable for all opaque transfers.


I agree but people do make mistakes and throw the shirt in the dryer accidentally or at times intentionally (when in a hurry to wear the shirt). Unless you put a disclaimer that if washing instruction is not followed the damage to the shirt will not be the responsibility of the seller. Sometimes that can be a turn off and interpreted as selling not durable goods.

That is why lots of users including me are not offering dark shirt transfers because of the cracking issue.

It is just me though. Others have different opinion and succesful in selling the goods.

Luis


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> Years ago I have tried Airwaves Inc.'s opaque transfer fabric. It is literally made of 100% poly fabric with adhesive backing. It is a two step process media.
> 
> Here is the link: Air Waves Inc. - FABRIC OPAQUE 11X17
> 
> ...


I posted a sample print of Airwaves opaque fabric in this thread: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t24978.html?highlight=airwaves

Have not done wash test yet. I have wash tested the same type of opaque transfer on a different shirt before I lost the shirt. Anyhow I can remember that it survived at least 4 washes. It did not fade, crack or peel. So I excpect the new shirt will survive the abuse of machine wash and dryer beating.

Luis


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## OrangePeel (Jan 31, 2010)

I am thinking of trying Opaque transfer for Darks.

I need to make sure there is white left behind. I am printing an image that will have white in it, so I need the white since I don't have a printer with white ink

any advice/help?

Thanks!!


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