# Mixing Plastisol ink with Water based ink



## jase1 (Apr 24, 2010)

Hi

I've done a print today and realised that I've mixed grey from a Plastisol white and a water based black. The print looks good but hasn't been cured yet.

What I would like to know is will the print cure properly and wash ok? I've flash dryed the prints but I'm not able to cure them yet as I have to do this elsewhere. 

Has anybody done this before?


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

Wow, I have never done that before, but can easily see me mixing inks like that. I think the plastisol has to cure at a higher temp, but the water based has to cure for a longer time to evaporate the water in it. Keep me posted on how the curing and washing comes out.


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## jayarrsteiner (Aug 8, 2009)

I've mixed a bit of plastisol in white waterbased ink just to give it color. Works great. Saves on buying waterbased pigments and such.


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

jayarrsteiner said:


> I've mixed a bit of plastisol in white waterbased ink just to give it color. Works great. Saves on buying waterbased pigments and such.


OK, but how did you cure it? For how long? Did you cure per plastisol or per water based ink instructions?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Cure temperature on both is the same; around 320 degrees. My guess is to cure based on waterbased, since it's longer and you really can't overcure plastisol.


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## wwpro (Apr 9, 2009)

how's the feel on something printed with that "mix" ?


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## jase1 (Apr 24, 2010)

The grey prints have a matt finish rather than the more shiny finish. 

I wonder if it will crack quicker than 100% plastisol print?


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

What is the main advantage of mixing plastisol with waterbase? There are waterbase inks that come with bright colors, Not as bright as plastisol but colorful enough. And depending on your waterbase ink, they may be more colorful than a plastisol+wartebase mix. 

Forp people who plan to print waterbase over a plastisol layer, do note that some waterbase inks must be printed directly on garment or on a similar type of ink for it not to wash out.

But I'd be interested in knowing how well the prints cure. If they'll crack over time.


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## chrispunx (Aug 5, 2010)

BroJames said:


> What is the main advantage of mixing plastisol with waterbase? There are waterbase inks that come with bright colors, Not as bright as plastisol but colorful enough. And depending on your waterbase ink, they may be more colorful than a plastisol+wartebase mix.
> 
> Forp people who plan to print waterbase over a plastisol layer, do note that some waterbase inks must be printed directly on garment or on a similar type of ink for it not to wash out.
> 
> But I'd be interested in knowing how well the prints cure. If they'll crack over time.


 think OP is sayin that he didn't realize that he mixed the two...and wanted to know what he should be curing it to...i think.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

I know. I am sorry I was not clear but my post is directed to those who mix them by choice.


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## chrispunx (Aug 5, 2010)

oh, sorry.


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## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

I can't say that it's something I would make a habit of. Maybe in an emergency, and then I'd do a wash test before running a job for a customer to make sure it was cured.
For what it's worth, Union Ink's Plasticharge base is a waterbased base into which you mix plastisol inks 50/50, then add the activator. All the activator does is discharge the dye from the shirts, and in fact, Union says that you can still use the ink after the activator has crapped out. When you're mixing an oil-based item with a waterbased item, you're creating an emulsion (not the kind that is photographic, like to expose screens). Kind of like mixing eggs with water. You've got to stir the hell out of them to keep the components in suspension. I don't know if the resulting ink will separate on its own if left unstirred in a container over time, but if you can get it to mix thoroughly, print it and cure it thoroughly, I would suppose it would be okay. The less stuff you do like that, though, the less likely of a failure in a print job. Best to use components designed to work together.


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