# Help! Embroidering Richardson Hats



## Slimboy16 (Jan 16, 2018)

Hello Everyone, Newbie here.
I recently purchased a SFW single head machine. All I do is hats, that's all I want to do.
I used to get them done somewhere else and finally decided to make them myself.
I love the Richardson 112 hat, is a good looking hat BUT OMG I have such trouble with them.
i have not been able to run a single design without a thread break or the machine stopping for what it thinks is a thread break. Looking for tips from someone that has experience working with this hats, I used the hat needle plate but still the space between plate and hat is a a lot.
Any other hat suggestion that looks just as good, any tips on how to minimize the space between plate and hat or just any advice on hats will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance!!


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## ajmonka (Oct 11, 2017)

You might try using a larger (90 in place of a 75) needle to see how it works. The larger needle will make a larger hole and allow the thread to be pulled back up easier.. It will also allow to go through the heavier backing without bending the needle as much.

Make sure you eliminate all very short stitches as well. Digitizing plays an important role with hats. Generally hat digitizing is performed from the center outward, but may not be 100% of the time.

HTH,

Andy


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

These might help
Framing Station | HoopTech Products 
THIRD HAND CAP HOOPER [FACTORY DIRECT] - Hirsch


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## SunEmbroidery (Oct 18, 2007)

Steam hats before embroidering
Add stabilizer
Slow down machine
Use hat clips

If this your first experience with embroidery hats can be a tough place to start. Does your machine run flats well? If not then your problem might not be confined to hats.

Is the digitizing being done by the same person who did it for the hats you had someone else embroider?

Some people have an awful time with Richardson hats because they just don't fit their hat frame. I agree that you might need to switch to another hat style.


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## Slimboy16 (Jan 16, 2018)

Thank you guys for your help and advice.
Flats run fine, is just these Richardson hats that are the problem.
The space between the needle plat and hats is just too much, but you see these hats being embroidered and used everywhere so there is gotta be a method or attachment to make them easier to work with.
I'm checking the Hoop tech products and see what i find.

Thank you.


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## selzler (Apr 4, 2007)

Slimboy16 said:


> Thank you guys for your help and advice.
> Flats run fine, is just these Richardson hats that are the problem.
> The space between the needle plat and hats is just too much, but you see these hats being embroidered and used everywhere so there is gotta be a method or attachment to make them easier to work with.
> I'm checking the Hoop tech products and see what i find.
> ...


We take the Cap and crush the front and bend the front seam inward moving it back and forth until the front softens up then when stitching the Cap will bend it will go back to being stiff again.


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## LTPEMB (Jul 10, 2015)

before Framing the caps I "break in the seams" by running the insides of the seams against the framing mount and using some sort of had tool (smooth handle of a screwdriver) and run it against it to bust up the seams stiffness


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## backwoodhobbies (Feb 14, 2014)

Whe embroidery these hats on our Toyota 860’s all the time with no problems at speeds of 900 to 950 Make sure you pull the sides tight and use clips.


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## Wildgoose (Mar 5, 2013)

I run my hand very aggressively over the front of the caps when they are in the mounting jig so that the face can be somewhat conformed to the right curve even to the point of creating a little heat from the friction. I have used steam but it's much slower. I also bend the brim straight to help get the clamp to line up just right with the edge of the brim. Best thing I have done to date is convinced most of my current clients that a smaller logo on half the front is trendy thus avoiding the center seam. Ha ha! 

My bet on the non-broken thread break is that you missed a stitch and it caught it thinking a thread broke. Just back up a stitch or two and go again. I usually use size 80 sharps needles with the Richardson structured 110/112 caps. Seems to get the best results. If you get some loose loops or such on the front use a small heat gun very carefully to heat the thread and it will shrink into shape. Don't heat gun the mesh or you will have a hole. Ask me how I know this.


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