# Making a flash cure unit?



## macmediacs (Jul 3, 2005)

Anybody know how or where to find some plans. Trying to minimize the cost of branching out on my own. TIA.


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## triplej (Apr 18, 2005)

macmediacs said:


> Anybody know how or where to find some plans. Trying to minimize the cost of branching out on my own. TIA.


When I was first starting out I made one with a replacement panel from an infrared dryer. It was ugly but did the job. Nowadays they make less expensive flash units. here are a few links. 
Afford-A-Flash Heaters
BlackFlash Units

The least expensive BlackFlash is 275 bones. That's 25 more than my previously mentioned infrared gig.

Happy Hunting.


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## DowntownClothing (Aug 19, 2008)

This seems kinda crazy.. but don't you think you might be able to take the old heating element out of a stove and build a unit to hold it? If it was possible you might even be able to incorporate the temp dial into the unit and adjust your temperature 

Just a thought. I mean my flash dryer could probably cook a pizza


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## Maximus Ink (Dec 6, 2008)

DowntownClothing said:


> This seems kinda crazy.. but don't you think you might be able to take the old heating element out of a stove and build a unit to hold it? If it was possible you might even be able to incorporate the temp dial into the unit and adjust your temperature
> 
> Just a thought. I mean my flash dryer could probably cook a pizza


I like the creative thinking. I just don't have a spare stove around or the ingenuity to make it. I am also starting up and am looking for a flash dryer. My brother found one on ebay for $170 and I didn't bite. At the time I wasn't ready but now I wish I would have gotten it then. Speaking of that, I also have heard some not-so-good things about ebay. I myself have never had an issue on there. I have not sold, only purchased. Should I be leary?


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## GrahamB (Jun 24, 2009)

Gudday,
This is my first post response . I was looking for some details on how to make a heat cure unit for my Screen print hobby. I was sick of using a hair dryer, holding shirts in front of a gas heater and lots of other options. I saw this post which mentioned possible use of an oven element. Unlike the post, I happened to have an old stove in my driveway waiting for hard rubbish day. Firstly I'm surprised I didnt think of it before but the hint got me moving.
I demolished the stove, cut off the griller, cleaned it up a bit, did a bit of wiring to relocate the griller heat control, and gave it a try using the standard grill tray. It worked a treat. 
Next I made a "conveyor" using a couple of round tubes, a couple of old bike chains, an old computer tape drive motor, a couple of micro switches to turn it off at end of travel, a tray to drag back and forth through the griller and my only purchase item,a double pole double throw switch to be able to reverse the motor.
I used it yesterday for the first time in anger and it was sensational.
For the flags that I do it is great. The next step will be to relocate the grill reflector to the other side of the element and mount the unit upside down without the conveyor on a mobile trolley to be able to wheel it over a shirt being printed to do a quick cure to be able to print some additional colours.
The attached pictures should give a pretty good idea.
Ive timed the transit through the griller to about 1 minute by choosing an appropriate voltage for the DC motor I had
Hope this helps someone else. 
The price was certainly right, $2-50 for a switch and a bit of time.
Graham B


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## ufc1972 (May 28, 2009)

A cheap $40 1300 watt quatz halogen heater has worked well for me. When the platen is hot it takes about 12 sec to flash a A4 sized print. I joined 2 together and wired up a cheap motion sensor (just a sensor light type) so when I spin the platen it turns on. Cheap, 2600watt, auto on off, no warm up time. Works well. The timer is the only problem, the one I got adjusts from 7 sec to 16sec then 30+ so I need to find a better one. 

Also if you are after a cheap vacuum set up for exposures just buy a $5 vacuum seal bag ( the type you store cloths, pillows etc in) a bit of black foam in ya screen and there ya go. 10 sec with a vacuum cleaner then your artwork is sucked to the screen. If the bag is half good it will hold the seal all day.


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## Ken Styles (Mar 16, 2006)

Just buy a flash unit. It won't be worth it if your home-made one catches fire and burns your place down.


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

Building upon what ufc1972 said, you can also wire a bunch of 500W halogen flood lights up and use that. Switches for each individual light AND a switch for all the lights means you can just flash the areas you need to.


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## mtmob (Apr 21, 2007)

Dude Craigslist always has great deals on them I literally bought a whole shop with atlas equipment for get this $700 and that was before our recession so im sure you should be able to find a good deal now. But I have to admit that conveyor dryer that Graham made was pretty impressive....


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## sandcat (Mar 5, 2008)

@Polarbear, wow that's a really great idea! 
Just a quick question though regarding the Halogen setup. I seems you've removed the glass protection. Do you leave them off? It it possible to still cure waterbased? It seems like the stem rising from the ink would ruin the bulb.


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

sandcat said:


> @Polarbear, wow that's a really great idea!
> Just a quick question though regarding the Halogen setup. I seems you've removed the glass protection. Do you leave them off? It it possible to still cure waterbased? It seems like the stem rising from the ink would ruin the bulb.


I've never had any issues with steam, though I've never used this to cure only to flash the shirts.

I can see that maybe if curing you could theoretically get a buildup of steam trapped in the lights causing shorts... If this was a problem something simple like a fan blowing to the side to blow the steam away before it became and issue might help... though it might dry your ink too...


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## sandcat (Mar 5, 2008)

Yeah that makes sense to use for flashing...so i guess it probably would be better to go the oven element way for curing.
Thanks for your help


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## ehadden1 (Apr 12, 2009)

A heat gun and a heat press should do the trick. I'm pretty sure you can use a heat gun to flash and the heat press for a final cure for a small run. Plus you will always need that heat press for vinyl, ink, and foil transfers


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## antman712 (Dec 21, 2009)

do you think a space heater might be a possible idea for heat curing.


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## ehadden1 (Apr 12, 2009)

The guy from Youtees use a space heater to cure a shirt. He removed the safty feature and held it over the shirt.


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## micromaui-closed (Mar 9, 2010)

for many who purchase flash dryers, and wonder why some people want to make them- consider this. For me to purchase a $150 used flash on ebay, it will cost me $191 to ship it here (Hawaii). for me to purchase a bottom line model new for $399, it costs about $145 to ship. Very frustrating, especially when you consider a flash dryer is basically a heating coil with an off/on switch- if they sold the parts, something you could build in 7th grade shop class


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## Clan Co (Mar 15, 2010)

space heater works and so does the halogen trick (homeDepo has a rig for 30 with two 500 watt lights) but it gets tedius moving the stuff around on two color jobs. anyone know where I could get plans for a rolling base.. my arms get tired...


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## Clan Co (Mar 15, 2010)

oh and the people who say just go buy one don't understand that some of us could need the $ for other things.


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

Karen, as you might be able to see in my picture I have my halogen setup attached to an old (STRONG) Monitor arm (the sort that used to hold up big CRTs) and it swings out and around. The only trouble I've found is I culdnt anchor it to the table and anchored it to a block of wood which was anchored to the table. Now my wood has a slight twist in it


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Polarbear, is your 6 x 500w halogen used for waterbased inks or plastisol or both? What is the distance off the shirt and how many seconds for flashing and for curing?




Clan Co said:


> space heater works and so does the halogen trick (homeDepo has a rig for 30 with two 500 watt lights) but it gets tedius moving the stuff around on two color jobs. anyone know where I could get plans for a rolling base.. my arms get tired...


Why not a piece of plyboard with 4 caster wheels and fasten (the easiest) the legs of the lamps to this base?


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## micromaui-closed (Mar 9, 2010)

I used a flash cure of halogen lite- but after burning 6 shirts, and 6 more washing out, I ordered a unit from bob mongelieo. the only problem-he sent parcel post to Hawaii. that takes about 1 month or so. Dont complain if you live on the Mainland.


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## tripl3thr33 (Dec 4, 2008)

micromaui said:


> I used a flash cure of halogen lite- but after burning 6 shirts, and 6 more washing out, I ordered a unit from bob mongelieo. the only problem-he sent parcel post to Hawaii. that takes about 1 month or so. Dont complain if you live on the Mainland.


have you tried it yet and what do you think of it? i was planning on getting his or an econo flash from ryonet and i live in hawaii too so i know your pain with shipping.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

micromaui said:


> I used a flash cure of halogen lite- but after burning 6 shirts, and 6 more washing out, I ordered a unit from bob mongelieo. the only problem-he sent parcel post to Hawaii. that takes about 1 month or so. Dont complain if you live on the Mainland.


So what went wrong? I mean, what is your curing distance and time for the 6 burnt shirts and what is your curing distance and time forthe 6 that washed out?


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

I use my unit for waterbased. Pretty close to the shirt, maybe 4 or 5 cm if that, I don't really measure it.
I turn it on for around 15 seconds each time.

Also I'm using it on black shirts... haven't done any light coloured ones where and burning would be obvious.


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## KBT's (Feb 11, 2010)

I use a propane space heater. Its heats are very constant. Adjust it by moving it closer or farther away. Puts out a lot of excess heat and is not fun in the summer. But its very cheep, I can run for days for less than $5.00.

I am liking the halogen light set up I may have look into that. 

Why buy it when you can make it. Unless you have hundreds of jobs bending.


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## micromaui-closed (Mar 9, 2010)

about 4 inches for either- the black lettering was only affected. crispy like a potato chip. then the edges washed out because the lite didnt spread out heat far enough to edges to cure them. it is possible to use a light (or any thing that will produce eb=nough heat) but I'm tired of the playing around. I should have just bought the flash when I ordered the screen press.


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

Micromaui, a flash is used to set the colours so that you can print another colour without picking up the ink that is already on the tee. NOT to cure... I wouldn't think anyone should be trying to use a flash to cure, bought or DIY


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## KBT's (Feb 11, 2010)

Flash drying and curing are processes in screen printing and you can use the same equipment for both of them.
Some flash dryers sale their product for use as a final curing tool.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

micromaui said:


> about 4 inches for either- the black lettering was only affected. crispy like a potato chip. then the edges washed out because the lite didnt spread out heat far enough to edges to cure them. it is possible to use a light (or any thing that will produce eb=nough heat) but I'm tired of the playing around. I should have just bought the flash when I ordered the screen press.


I think you are right on the heat not spreading out to the edges. Probably design was too big as the temp difference on the center and the outer edges of the lamp should not be great enough to cause scorching at the center and washout at the edges. On a 500w halogen that difference should be about 50F or 10C (1" distance). 

A commercial unit is like a plug and play device.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

polarbear said:


> I use my unit for waterbased. Pretty close to the shirt, maybe 4 or 5 cm if that, I don't really measure it.
> I turn it on for around 15 seconds each time.
> 
> Also I'm using it on black shirts... haven't done any light coloured ones where and burning would be obvious.


Are those regular drying waterbased inks or the longer drying ones? 





micromaui said:


> about 4 inches for either- the black lettering was only affected. crispy like a potato chip. then the edges washed out because the lite didnt spread out heat far enough to edges to cure them. it is possible to use a light (or any thing that will produce eb=nough heat) but I'm tired of the playing around. I should have just bought the flash when I ordered the screen press.


I think you are right on the heat not spreading out to the edges. Probably design was too big as the temp difference on the center and the outer edges of the lamp should not be great enough to cause scorching at the center and washout at the edges. On a 500w halogen that difference should be about 50F or 10C (1" distance). 

A commercial unit is like a plug and play device.


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## nwscreenprinting (Jun 1, 2010)

The person who suggested that you buy a real flash unit is right on the money. You need one of these if you are going to try to make money in this industry.


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## polarbear (Jan 31, 2008)

Permaset Aqua Supercover inks.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

nwscreenprinting said:


> The person who suggested that you buy a real flash unit is right on the money. You need one of these if you are going to try to make money in this industry.


A DIY flash cure entails rolling up your sleeves and testing (and chances are more tinkering and testing) especially if you DIY your own and not pattern it after one that has already been used in production. 

A commercial flash cure unit is like a plug and play device. You unpack it, set it up, and it is ready for use with recommended settings (which shuld be nothing more than the height, temperature, curing time). 

There is no doubt that a commercial unit is ideal and recommended for those with production topmost in their mind or those who money to spare. But to say that it is a *definite need to make money* in screen printing is looking at things with a rather narrow perspective and not having personally tried it.


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## KBT's (Feb 11, 2010)

Do you have a laser thermometer? If not you need one. 4” is really close. I set mine at about 16” and it takes a few minutes to get to 325 deg. And then I can shoot the outer edges and make sure it gets hot enough on big prints. If it not I just move the shirt a bit. I set the distance so it will not get any hotter than 350 deg. I have forgotten about shirts before and left them there for over a ½ hour and it didn’t even scorch it. If your using plastic ink you only need to attain 300 deg for the ink to cure if your using water base ink you have to get to 300 deg and stay there for at least 15 sec. Unless your going to be a huge production shop half the fun is making things that work for you instead of buying them.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

KBT's said:


> Do you have a laser thermometer? If not you need one. 4” is really close. I set mine at about 16” and it takes a few minutes to get to 325 deg. And then I can shoot the outer edges and make sure it gets hot enough on big prints. If it not I just move the shirt a bit. I set the distance so it will not get any hotter than 350 deg. I have forgotten about shirts before and left them there for over a ½ hour and it didn’t even scorch it. If your using plastic ink you only need to attain 300 deg for the ink to cure if your using water base ink you have to get to 300 deg and stay there for at least 15 sec. Unless your going to be a huge production shop half the fun is making things that work for you instead of buying them.


I am just curious on two things.

1) Propane heater. Is the heat consistent prapane being a form of liquified gas where pressure is affected by temperature? and is it economical?

2) Why 16"? I don't have the details but 16" seems quite far. Can you post a picture?

I agree with your last sentence. The "fun" factor is immeasurable.


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## TamperDesigns (May 24, 2010)

ufc1972 said:


> A cheap $40 1300 watt quatz halogen heater has worked well for me. When the platen is hot it takes about 12 sec to flash a A4 sized print. I joined 2 together and wired up a cheap motion sensor (just a sensor light type) so when I spin the platen it turns on. Cheap, 2600watt, auto on off, no warm up time. Works well. The timer is the only problem, the one I got adjusts from 7 sec to 16sec then 30+ so I need to find a better one.
> 
> Also if you are after a cheap vacuum set up for exposures just buy a $5 vacuum seal bag ( the type you store cloths, pillows etc in) a bit of black foam in ya screen and there ya go. 10 sec with a vacuum cleaner then your artwork is sucked to the screen. If the bag is half good it will hold the seal all day.


Does the vacuum bag really work? Such a simple idea and if it works, that's genius!


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

ufc1972 said:


> A cheap $40 1300 watt quatz halogen heater has worked well for me. When the platen is hot it takes about 12 sec to flash a A4 sized print. I joined 2 together and wired up a cheap motion sensor (just a sensor light type) so when I spin the platen it turns on. Cheap, 2600watt, auto on off, no warm up time. Works well. The timer is the only problem, the one I got adjusts from 7 sec to 16sec then 30+ so I need to find a better one.
> 
> Also if you are after a cheap vacuum set up for exposures just buy a $5 vacuum seal bag ( the type you store cloths, pillows etc in) a bit of black foam in ya screen and there ya go. 10 sec with a vacuum cleaner then your artwork is sucked to the screen. If the bag is half good it will hold the seal all day.


I use a 1500w halogen and cure an A4 image, not flash, in about 10. Haven't found out the best time yet. 



TamperDesigns said:


> Does the vacuum bag really work? Such a simple idea and if it works, that's genius!


There is really no reason why it should not work. I just wonder how long they'll last, both the plastic and the vacuum seal. I think its time for me to try it.


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## ufc1972 (May 28, 2009)

The vacumm bags work great. Just make sure you buy some that has one side clear. (some have text on both side). Also I use a black bit of foam on the other side of the screen. They seem to last good as long as your screen dont have sharp corners and the bag are good quality.


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## TamperDesigns (May 24, 2010)

Awesome. So practical, I feel stupid for not thinking of it before!


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## mouthprint (May 22, 2012)

BroJames said:


> I use a 1500w halogen and cure an A4 image, not flash, in about 10. Haven't found out the best time yet.


out of curiosity what distance are you putting those lights off the shirt to cure the A4 size image....thinkn about building me a setup like this .....


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

It's either 24 or 30 inches for the 1500w but I think it's the later. Can't remember much as I used the 500w more often, the 1500w only very briefly before shifting to a 250w mercury followed by a 400w then halide.


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## AManAndAMouse (Dec 12, 2012)

BroJames said:


> _Does the vacuum bag really work? Such a simple idea and if it works, that's genius!_
> 
> There is really no reason why it should not work. I just wonder how long they'll last, both the plastic and the vacuum seal. I think its time for me to try it.


I don't get what you're doing with this bag. Putting foam on a screen, the screen in a bag and sucking the air out with a vacuum? What is the purpose? Or what exactly are you doing if my understanding is wrong?

thanks
michael


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

The proper quote should be as follows:



AManAndAMouse said:


> BroJames said:
> 
> 
> > ufc1972 said:
> ...


I presume that the foam is placed in corners and edges of the frame to protect the non-elastic(and much less durable) plastic of the vacuum bag from premature tear. At least that is how I did it when I tried it.


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## Flash Gordon (Mar 28, 2011)

Were you satisfied with the results?


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## AManAndAMouse (Dec 12, 2012)

BroJames said:


> _Also if you are after a cheap vacuum set up for exposures just buy a $5 vacuum seal bag_


Thanks BroJames. I read the whole thread but I still don't get it. What is a '_cheap vacuum set up for exposures'?.

thanks
michael
_


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## Flash Gordon (Mar 28, 2011)

I think he was talking about a vacuum bag that you would use to compact clothes or other soft material, so that you could condense the amount of area needed for storage, for example in a closet.


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## AManAndAMouse (Dec 12, 2012)

Flash Gordon said:


> I think he was talking about a vacuum bag that you would use to compact clothes or other soft material, so that you could condense the amount of area needed for storage, for example in a closet.


Thanks, Flash. As a newbie, I was hoping it wasn't some new printing process I hadn't heard of yet.


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## Flash Gordon (Mar 28, 2011)

ufc1972

September 11th, 2009	


Re: Making a flash cure unit?
A cheap $40 1300 watt quatz halogen heater has worked well for me. When the platen is hot it takes about 12 sec to flash a A4 sized print. I joined 2 together and wired up a cheap motion sensor (just a sensor light type) so when I spin the platen it turns on. Cheap, 2600watt, auto on off, no warm up time. Works well. The timer is the only problem, the one I got adjusts from 7 sec to 16sec then 30+ so I need to find a better one. 

Also if you are after a cheap vacuum set up for exposures just buy a $5 vacuum seal bag ( the type you store cloths, pillows etc in) a bit of black foam in ya screen and there ya go. 10 sec with a vacuum cleaner then your artwork is sucked to the screen. If the bag is half good it will hold the seal all day.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Flash Gordon said:


> Were you satisfied with the results?


I just did a simple exposure, the results seems the same, I returned to weights because I used a household setup and can't stand the noise. I expose either early dawn or late evening so I just put myself on my neighbor's shoes.




AManAndAMouse said:


> Thanks BroJames. I read the whole thread but I still don't get it. What is a '_cheap vacuum set up for exposures'?.
> 
> thanks
> michael
> _


It's either a DIY vacuum system for pinning the film positive(or artwork) down on the emulsion or a resealable plastic bag used for storing clothes.


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## AManAndAMouse (Dec 12, 2012)

Pinning the the film positive to the emulsion! Thanks, Bro.


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## johne123 (Jan 31, 2013)

i did like ufc1972 did for a flash unit. i used a cheap wall mount heater and built a stand for it. pics and a longer description are here: https://paloverdethreads.com/story/diy/diy-flash-cure-unit/


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## johne123 (Jan 31, 2013)

now it looks like we are talking about screen exposure... i just use a piece of plywood, a padded board with black cloth then my screen, then the positives then some plexiglass. i then clamp the whole mess together with some simple clamps and expose with a halogen work lamp... i get great detail... i'm gonna do a write up on my blog with pics so i'll post the url when i write that...


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