# Hot Peel Plastisol Transfer - what's the trick to this method?



## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

Hi everybody! This is my first time to post here. First of all, I'd like to say thank you everybody for being so helpful in this forum. I've learned a lot from you guys even by just reading.

I have a question for the experienced regarding ALL HOT PEEL plastisol transfers (hot split, double hot split, puff). I got my samples from First-edition. All my hot peel transfers wasn't successful. Attached picture will say it all. I followed time/temperature settings with heavy pressure on my Hix Swingman, but failed. Tried different settings in my next presses, but still failed. Has anybody failed the first time with hot peel, then discovered this is a better method compared to cold peel? Is there any trick to this method? I don't see what I'm doing wrong. I'm just following the directions. Never had problems with cold peel. Any input is greatly appreciated.

P.S.
I have an infant and a toddler, a job, and this new business, that keep me crazy busy. So if I can't reply right away, you know where I'm at. 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/azvelcelis/my_photos


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Hi Azvel, sorry to hear you are having problems with Hot Peels from firstchoice.
Is this one of the Hot Peel transfers you are talking about ?


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

youre not the only one...I have never been able to get hot peel transfers to work properly. The cold peel with adhesive crystals from first-edition works easily for me though, so that is what I order.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

What temp settings and dwell times are you using? Are you removing the moisture from the shirts with a pre-press? When you say heavy pressure...how heavy?


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> What temp settings and dwell times are you using? Are you removing the moisture from the shirts with a pre-press? When you say heavy pressure...how heavy?


David's questions play a part in the end result. I cant see firstchoice giving you defective samples.

*Good quality Hot Peel Plastisol Transfers for Dark shirts are really easy to apply and work everytime.*


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> Hi Azvel, sorry to hear you are having problems with Hot Peels from firstchoice.
> Is this one of the Hot Peel transfers you are talking about ?


 
Yes, that is one of them. If you click on my link, the entire HOT PEEL folder consists of hot split, double print hot split, and puff... all peeled while it's hot.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

azvel said:


> Hi everybody! This is my first time to post here. First of all, I'd like to say thank you everybody for being so helpful in this forum. I've learned a lot from you guys even by just reading.
> 
> I have a question for the experienced regarding ALL HOT PEEL plastisol transfers (hot split, double hot split, puff). I got my samples from First-edition. All my hot peel transfers wasn't successful. Attached picture will say it all. I followed time/temperature settings with heavy pressure on my Hix Swingman, but failed. Tried different settings in my next presses, but still failed. Has anybody failed the first time with hot peel, then discovered this is a better method compared to cold peel? Is there any trick to this method? I don't see what I'm doing wrong. I'm just following the directions. Never had problems with cold peel. Any input is greatly appreciated.
> 
> ...


I think you should contact First Edition and send them shots of how your transfers are pressing and see what they say. What type press do ya have and how old is it? Were these samples or something you ordered from them?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

jdr8271 said:


> youre not the only one...I have never been able to get hot peel transfers to work properly. The cold peel with adhesive crystals from first-edition works easily for me though, so that is what I order.


Jon, you have posted before about hot peel transfer problems and if your gear was looking like the above mentioned samples I can see why. I havent ordered any custom made transfers just stock images and they work perfectly. I am wondering what the differences could be. I agree those look terrible and certainly arent feasable to use let alone want to even purchase. The sample transfers posted arent very large or detailed. Did your transfers look like these examples?


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> What temp settings and dwell times are you using? Are you removing the moisture from the shirts with a pre-press? When you say heavy pressure...how heavy?


I pre-press garment for 5 sec.

I followed instructions on paper:

For HOT SPLIT, 375 in 15 sec
For Double Print HOT SPLIT, 365 in 8 sec
For Puff, 375 in 5 sec
Then on my next press, I increased temp a little bit. Same results.

Then I increased pressure (up to the max pressure my heat press can do).


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I think you should contact First Edition and send them shots of how your transfers are pressing and see what they say. What type press do ya have and how old is it? Were these samples or something you ordered from them?


Yes, I will also contact them. These are just samples fron First Edition. I thought there is a trick with this method. Although I have some good hot peel results, but are not perfect (using same method). Here's the link:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/azvelcelis/album?.dir=aed8scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/azvelcelis/my_photos

I have 2 month old Hix Swingman that is great, no problems with all transfers except hot peel.


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## shirtguy (Apr 21, 2006)

Make sure you pre-heat the press for al least 15 sec. Moisture is the problem either in the shirt or in the transfer. Sometimes you can lay the transfer back down and press again for 12-15 sec. When you peel try not to peel up but grap a corner from the top and peel towards you. This works for me.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Try pre-pressing the shirt for at least 20 seconds to get rid of the moisture and while the shirt is warm press the transfer for 8-10 seconds at 385-395degrees medium/heavy pressure. The pre-press you are doing may be just to heat the shirt and lower platon and not enough time to get the moisture out of the shirt...especially dark colored shirts.

If you are using hotsplits with a teflon sheet over the transfer...dont use the teflon sheet. Peel the transfer as soon as you open the press from corner to corner in a steady singular motion.


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I agree those look terrible and certainly arent feasable to use let alone want to even purchase. The sample transfers posted arent very large or detailed. Did your transfers look like these examples?


Please click on the thumbnails to view them larger.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

azvel said:


> Please click on the thumbnails to view them larger.


I am hoping these are just old samples but cant figure why a company that does custom would send out old junk. Junk doesnt instill any confidence in a future order. This company should send out the over-runs of the last order printed as samples.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

azvel said:


> Yes, I will also contact them. These are just samples fron First Edition.
> 
> I have 2 month old Hix Swingman that is great, no problems with all transfers except hot peel.


On this one, the Black color of the shirt is coming thru the Yellow area of the design.

Thats because it was not made with a white color layer behind the yellow color, thats why the black color used in the design was not used behind the bricks. 
This is not your fault. Most likely it is a transfer to print on WHITE color shirts only.


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

I'll try pre pressing my shirts longer tonight and try again. I'll contact the company if everything fails. I hear good things about First Edition. I'm thinking I might be doing something that's not right. I still have faith I can do hot peel since most of you guys prefer this method.


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

(long post warning. LOL so I'm sorry in advance)

Generally speaking, hot splits are for light colored garments, and cold peels are for dark colored garments. Double hot splits are also created for dark garments mainly. Double hot splits are created by screen printing the lighter colors of a design onto the transfer paper, then sending it to the dryer (just enough) and then screen printing them again to give the lighter colors enough ink to maintain opacity when split to block the colors of a dark garment.

There are a few things that can be causing some of the problems I see in your sample photos. (By the way, a lot of my practice pieces look just like yours)

First of all, we'll assume that your platens are perfectly flat, and that your heat press is reaching and maintaining the proper temperature.

If you have a Teflon pad protector installed on your lower platen, make sure that it is also perfectly flat. Feel around the edges. If you feel a lump, make sure the elastic type material that stretches over the lower platen is not still sitting (bunched up) on the top surface in some places. Pull all that elastic so it's under lower platen. Uneven pressure can cause half the transfer to stick.

Make sure your press has reached the recommended temperature for every transfer. Each time you do a transfer, the lower platen steals some heat away from the upper platen.

Before you start transferring for the day, or after you take a long enough break, pre-heat the lower platen by pressing it without a t-shirt for a minute or two. A cold lower platen can give you poor results like those in some of your pictures.

Always pre-press a new garment for about 3 to 6 seconds to get the moisture out of it. Moisture will prevent a transfer from penetrating the fabric of the garment.

Do not use hot split transfers that have light colors in them on dark garments. This will lead to the dark fabric color showing through a design color. Use Double Hot Split or Cold Peel for darks.

Next, assuming you have the right temperature, and the right transfer type, you need to play around with the time and pressure a little bit. Not enough pressure will create a poor bond between the inks and the fabric. The result might have great opacity, but a poor bond. The pressure forces the melted ink into the fabric. Too much pressure will create a great bond, but poor opacity. Not enough time, will also cause a poor bond. The inks on the transfer need to melt so they will flow into the fabric. Too much time will create poor opacity. It's all a balancing act of time, heat and pressure.

Again, assuming the proper heat was reached and maintained, I'd say that you need more pressure and possibly a little more time. Since it's easy to see if you have the temp and time set correctly, start with the pressure. You need to force that ink into the fabric. If that doesn't do it, keep the greater pressure and add a couple of seconds to the time. Next, more pressure and so on.

If you bump up the heat, reduce the time a little. If the garment color is showing through a Double hot split or Cold peel, reduce the temp a little and maybe the time by 2 seconds. Change one variable at a time and test. Change temps 5 degrees at a time and test. Change dwell times 2 seconds at a time.

I usually start at the highest end of the recommendation given by the transfer manufacturer. This way, I'm pretty sure the inks will melt and sink into the fabric. If I'm at the highest recommendations, and I'm not getting a good bond, then I crank up the pressure until that sucker sticks good.

On the other hand, if the inks soak in too much, or are not opaque enough. Back off on the pressure a little and test, then try backing off the temp or time.

Cut your practice transfers into small pieces for these tests so you don't waist them. You can also cut t-shirts into small test pieces to get the most out of them.

If it seems like I'm kind of saying the same thing over and over again with little subtle changes in my wording, that's great, because that's exactly how you dial in your heat press; little subtle changes over and over until it works.

A word (many) about cold peels. They are actually a little trickier to get right. They might look great because they are so opaque, but if the inks have not soaked into the fabric enough, they will not have a long life on the garment. If they soak in too much, they leave blotchy areas in the print. If you open the press too fast, you might hot split the edges of the design which will ruin the opacity in those areas. Plus you have to peel them at just the right time.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

A...sorry but that isnt how a hot peel or hot split transfer should work at all. Should be a no brainer. 3-6 second pre-press is just silly...press for at least 20 seconds min to get the moisture out of the blank No you arent forcing any ink into the blank etc...you heatpress folks would be surprised at really what heavy pressure really is. If you cant transfer a hotpeel or hotsplit transfer at 380 for 10 seconds then something is wrong somewhere. Has nothing to do with pressure etc!!!!!


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## Twinge (Apr 26, 2005)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> If you cant transfer a hotpeel or hotsplit transfer at 380 for 10 seconds then something is wrong somewhere. Has nothing to do with pressure etc!!!!!


Pressure is absolutely a factor. It doesn't matter what kind of transfer - too little pressure and it simply will not get a good bond to the shirt.



This will vary with transfer manufacturers and such quite a bit too of course, but one method I've heard a few times is to help press the inks into the shirt before peeling. This would be something to the effect of pressing for 10 seconds, rubbing a cloth, rolling pin, etc. over the transfer for about 10 seconds, and THEN peeling. Works well for me with the SMG hot transfers. Probably should not be required with ideal conditions, but worth a try anyway.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Decal_Designs said:


> Generally speaking, *hot splits are for light colored* garments, and cold *peels are for dark colored garments*. *Double hot splits* are also created for dark garments mainly. Double hot splits are created by screen printing the lighter colors of a design onto the transfer paper, then sending it to the dryer (just enough) and then screen printing them again to give the lighter colors enough ink to maintain opacity when split to block the colors of a dark garment.


sorry guys, I know I sound like a broken record but. HOT PEEL plastisol transfers 2006 work on ALL Fabric colors. NO NEED for anything else. One type of transfers is ALL you need: HOT PEEL TRANSFERS.

Like David Said: THEY ARE A NO BRAINER. (I know its hard for some of you to believe but it is true).
No offence poster, but It's True. Something is wrong. You need HOT PEEL transfers 2006 type, not transfers from the 90's type.

*Good quality Hot Peel Plastisol Transfers print on ALL Fabrics colors and are EASY TO APPLY and work everytime.*


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## kentphoto (Jan 16, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> A...sorry but that isnt how a hot peel or hot split transfer should work at all. Should be a no brainer. 3-6 second pre-press is just silly...press for at least 20 seconds min to get the moisture out of the blank


20 seconds? I pre-press for 3-4 seconds, and press the transfer for 6-8 seconds. Pre-pressing for 20 seconds is a big time consumption.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> (long post warning. LOL so I'm sorry in advance)


Hi Bill, thanks for the long post  I think it will be helpful to others who read this thread and want suggestions on what to try to make the transfers work.



> Like David Said: THEY ARE A NO BRAINER. (I know its hard for some of you to believe but it is true).


This really isn't helpful to the thread. Obviously there are people having problems with hot peel transfers, and so, instead of commenting about brain power, it would be more helpful to try to figure out how to fix the issues. 

Let's keep this to the topic of trying to find a helpful solution to the issue


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Twinge said:


> Pressure is absolutely a factor. It doesn't matter what kind of transfer - too little pressure and it simply will not get a good bond to the shirt.
> 
> 
> 
> This will vary with transfer manufacturers and such quite a bit too of course, but one method I've heard a few times is to help press the inks into the shirt before peeling. This would be something to the effect of pressing for 10 seconds, rubbing a cloth, rolling pin, etc. over the transfer for about 10 seconds, and THEN peeling. Works well for me with the SMG hot transfers. Probably should not be required with ideal conditions, but worth a try anyway.


My point about pressure is that you would be surprised once closing the press and locking it down how much pressure exists. Most hot peel transfer folks say to adjust pressure by;

1. placing a sheet of paper in the press and lock it down with little pressure so you can slide the sheet out.

2. Repeat step one and increase pressure until you cant slide the sheet paper out of the press.

Now you are ready to press.
Those instructions come straight form a plastisol transfer printer.

That is hardly cranking up the pressure knob to max.

Azvel also stated that the pressure was maxed out on the press so I dont think not enough pressure is the problem.


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

Thanks Rodney.

Motoskin.... I do value your opinion because you are a member of these forums, but let's take a look at your comments for a moment..



MotoskinGraphix said:


> A...sorry but that isn't how a hot peel or hot split transfer should work at all. Should be a no brainer. 3-6 second pre-press is just silly...press for at least 20 seconds min to get the moisture out of the blank


It's true that hot splits should be a no brainer, but they are not always that way. Obviously azvel and some others are having some trouble, and it's usually do to the variables I've mentioned. Also, the shirts are basically dry already except for a small amount of humidity that is absorbed by the fabric. I do not see any transfer companies recommending 20 seconds for this. 3-6 seconds is all you really need, but I'm not trying to talk you out of something that works for you.



> No you aren't forcing any ink into the blank etc...you heat press folks would be surprised at really what heavy pressure really is. If you cant transfer a hot peel or hot split transfer at 380 for 10 seconds then something is wrong somewhere. Has nothing to do with pressure etc!!!!!


That is false. Most transfer companies recommend medium to heavy pressure, but it's sometimes hard to gauge what that is on a manual press. Assuming you have a quality press, you can count on your temp gauge and timer for the heat and dwell settings, but the pressure can be a factor that is not as easy to set. The photos provided indicate that it might be a pressure issue, since azvel said the instructions for time and temp were followed.

To test your theory, preheat your oven to 380 degrees and place a t-shirt and a transfer in there for 10 seconds. With no pressure, I don't think your results will be that great. So yes, pressure is a major factor.

In fact Hix Corp, a world leader in the manufacture of heat presses has designed the handle on their most popular presses to increase pressure.
From their website...
Engineered handle design provides a 20% increase in pressure.

All other press manufacturers also speak about pressure. After all, that is what a press is, it applies pressure.



T-BOT said:


> sorry guys, I know I sound like a broken record but. HOT PEEL plastisol transfers 2006 work on ALL Fabric colors. NO NEED for anything else. One type of transfers is ALL you need: HOT PEEL TRANSFERS.


Although the photo you provided is a poor example because that is a white t-shirt, I have seen some of your other posts, and agree that you are getting good results with your transfers. I apologize if you have stated this in another post, but where do you buy your transfers from? I would like to learn more about them , and how they manufacture them. Perhaps you are buying Double Hot Split type transfers and they are just calling them hot split. I've also heard them called Hot peel by some companies, but as I said in my first post, "Generally speaking, hot splits are for light colored garments.." I need to learn more about the hot splits that you are buying T-Bot, but in general, and not to mess up the people that are just learning this stuff, most hot splits are for light colored garments, especially if the design has light colors in it. You know this is true most of the time, because you have questioned the reason for it in many of your other posts.

Again, I'm all for trying out the hot splits that you are using. I prefer hot splits myself.



> Like David Said: THEY ARE A NO BRAINER. (I know its hard for some of you to believe but it is true)......


While this statement may seem true while everything is working out fine, it is in fact not always the case, and a person needs to know how to try and trouble-shoot any problem they might be having. That is where those variables come in to play, and you need to understand what is actually happening when you close that heat press. It is not magic, and if it seems like a no brainer, it is because some very smart people did there best to make it seem that way. 

Look, I don't claim to be an expert at this, in fact, I'm still just starting out. I get side-tracked all the time by my other business. I also learn a lot form the members here, and I also read a lot of trade magazines. I'm just passing information on that I have read so "you don't have to" LOL.

In case you are interested, almost all of what I said in my previous post was gathered from 3 fairly recent articles that I read from Cliff Hix about this subject. The same Cliff Hix that invented the Hix Heat Press and started the Hix Corp. almost 40 years ago. It's also the same Cliff Hix that owns and operates First Edition Screen Printing which manufactures Plastisol Transfers. So I was just passing on what I have learned from a master in this subject. Of course, there are other opinions I'm sure.



> *Good quality Hot Peel Plastisol Transfers print on ALL Fabrics colors and are EASY TO APPLY and work every time.*


 
We do not want to confuse new people with that statement. Most regular hot split transfers from most plastisol transfer manufacturers are not recommended for dark fabrics even when they are high quality, however T-Bot seems to have a line on some that seem to work very well for her, and I have seen some of her other pictures. Please share your source T-Bot, I would like to learn more about them. Thanks!


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> ..... Most hot peel transfer folks say to adjust pressure by;
> 
> 1. placing a sheet of paper in the press and lock it down with little pressure so you can slide the sheet out.
> 
> ...


That is true, but that is actually a lot of pressure. Go ahead and stick your finger nail in there. A quality press handles this without a problem, but there are many presses on the market that have to be maxed out to acquire the correct pressure. Azvel's Hix Swingman is a quality press.

Azvel did say "Then I increased pressure (up to the max pressure my heat press can do)." OK, that would not be the problem then and I doubt you need that much pressure on that particular press. So, use the other variables of more heat and more time. Pre-heat that lower platen and see if that helps.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Again I agree we are all trying to help and I posted in the beginnnig exactly what works for me with transfers. I also read Azvel say that the press was at max pressure so more pressure isnt the answer. I use hot-split and hot-peel transfers everyday on light and dark shirts and never have had one muck up like those examples posted. As far as removing moisture from shirts...whatever works for you is fine. I know after three seconds my dark shirts still have plenty of steam coming from them so I press longer to make sure...and why not if its a variable that affects transfer pressing. All the advice I mentioned to Azvel came from hands on experience and press pressure directions from a transfer producer. T-Bots info comes from the company she works for...a transfer manufacturer. Remeber in plastisol inks there are opaque inks available and hot-split transfers do press on light or dark shirts. I will post some examples a bit later for ya. My comment..."a no brainer" wasnt a put down and you would have known this had you read the earlier posts. Those transfers should press very simply. My advice was to contact First Edition and show them the samples...see what they had to say. They may just be old junk transfers.

So anyway no harm no foul. We all want Azvel to be able to print quality shirts as everyone should be able to do with transfers. As far as confusing new folks in the business thats not my intention and I dont think it is yours either.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Here is a hot-peel transfer from Pro-world. They arent the manufacturer just retailer.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Rodney said:


> This really isn't helpful to the thread. Obviously there are people having problems with hot peel transfers, and so, instead of commenting about brain power, it would be more helpful to try to figure out how to fix the issues.


Rodney, the problem is that the poster should be having NO PROBLEMS at all applying HOT PEELS. 

There are soooo many people out there having the same problem, that is the problem. When in fact, Good HOT PEEL Plastisol transfers have been on the market for years now, High quality and *Quick & Easy to apply everytime*. Like the ones from The Wildside for example.

Why does the poster have to go thru this ordeal ? 


....by the way, been a HIX fan for years.


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> I apologize if you have stated this in another post, but where do you buy your transfers from? I would like to learn more about them


T-Bot works for a company that prints Plastisol Transfers. Feel free to follow up with Lucy off board for more info on her company 



> Rodney, the problem is that the poster should be having NO PROBLEMS at all applying HOT PEELS.


There are a lot more factors involved than "just use a different company". 



> There are soooo many people out there having the same problem, that is the problem. When in fact, Good HOT PEEL Plastisol transfers have been on the market for years now, High quality and Quick & Easy to apply everytime. Like the ones from The Wildside for example.


Yes, but it doesn't help to tell those people that it's a no brainer, when it's not always the case. 

The solution isn't always "just use a different company". As Bill posted, there are some other things that the original poster can try to help work through the issues they are having.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

Rodney said:


> There are a lot more factors involved than "just use a different company".


yes you are right.

assumming you just made 100 custom transfers HOT PEEL for darks and you are having problems.

Ok, i do not know these transfers. If I could see them in my hand, touch, feel and Smell the Inks on them, I would give you my best how to apply opinion. But that is not the case. So, here is how the Tests should work.

1. Follow the transfer maker instructions exactly.
2. If they are not working, (all heat presses are different but NOT really) try it by making small changes to the original apply instructions. Like a little more and/or a little less of all the settings. 

If that does not work, they are Bad/Old/who knows transfers. HOT PEELS should not require much apply testing.

sorry poster, this is all i can tell you to try to help your situation.


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## Decal_Designs (Jul 4, 2005)

OK thanks for the picture David, it's a nice example, and I will PM you T-Bot to get some more information. In the mean time, I hope Azvel gets back to this post so we can here an update on the problem transfers.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Yep...I agree, why we were here in the first place.


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

Hey guys, thanks for all the reply. I didn't post back till I get the samples from 2 other companies.

OK here's the update. Until now, I still couldn't get the First Edition's Hot peel transfers to stick perfectly to the garment. I called them, and they said I have to put teflon sheet over transfer so that when the press is lifted, the transfer won't be peeled up. I tried, but failed. I just couldn't get the technique for Hot peel transfers. Maybe some others have succeeded, I don't know. But their Cold peel transfers has perfect results (as for my experience).

I tried samples from AET Corp. and Versatranz. Everything went well. Hot peel transfers were perfect. As well as Cold peel. No special techniques. *I was relieved by then*.

Here are their websites...
http://www.aetcorp.com/index.html
http://www.versatranz.com/

I attached samples of what I did from the 2 companies. Thanks everyone for their time posting.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

azvel said:


> Hey guys, thanks for all the reply. I didn't post back till I get the samples from 2 other companies.
> 
> OK here's the update. Until now, I still couldn't get the First Edition's Hot peel transfers to stick perfectly to the garment. I called them, and they said I have to put teflon sheet over transfer so that when the press is lifted, the transfer won't be peeled up. I tried, but failed. I just couldn't get the technique for Hot peel transfers.


you see, thats great news. 

would you mind printing those same Hot Peel transfers on BLACK fabric so that members can see the results along with your press/apply setting ?


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Wow this is a lot of information. 
But it really boils down to one thing. Test the product before you commit the order. It could be a costly mistake if you take an order, have transfer made and then start applying them and then find out they are not working. I had transfers made from first edition for tote bags. The instructions were 375 at 15 second (Hot Split one color, black) In my test I found a few problems as the transfers they sent me for testing were not sticking. I have a mighty press 15 x 15. I was lucky as I had test bags. At 15 second they did not stick well but at 12 seconds at 375 and med pressure they went on perfectly. I think the factors that each of us need to know are we all use different companies and unless you have been using a company for a while and following their instruction and they work then test.. test.. test. The end results will be there won't be this confusion. The hot split transfers I got from Spot98 went on really really smooth. Some of you have older presses, some new ones this plays a factor for tempiture and pressure.. again.. I stutter.. test , test , test.


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

Sorry Lucy I'm out of the same samples from AET. Remember these were just my test shirts. I grab any old shirt from our closet. My husband told me his shirts are like billboard now because I test different samples in one shirt.

Anyways, I will post Versatrans' instruction which I have followed, and end result is great. I will also highlight the trick that might be helpful to others (about pre-pressing platen).


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## BelVon (Jul 26, 2006)

Few samples I wasn't able to get right...


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

thanks Azvel, that helps.


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## grumpster (Sep 12, 2006)

Not all presses are the same, and even within the same line, there are variables despite what the manufactures say. Get a RayTech non contact tempature gun (available through textile suppliers and some autoparts stores (NAPA) for about $50.00) and verify that your press is actually running at the temp that you think it is. It could be that the tempature is off even though it say's it isn't. Verify it with a non contact thermomenter. 

Possibly, you just got a bad batch of transfers. Before writing the company off entirely, ask them to send you another sample, explaning the problem your having now and try it again. It's possible that you just got a bad batch or something. 

I'd also take the time to carefully watch badalou's video on transfers, watching closely his pealing method. The way your peeling it may be lifting the image. Watching the video may help. 

These are the common sense things that I can think of beyond the normal time/temp/pressure variables that every ones talking about. 

As for moisture in the shirts, if you live in a high humidity area like the gulf coast, or store the shirts is a place that doesn't have the best ventalition, then you'd need more pre press time than if you lived in the arizona desert and the blanks were well ventilated. In the gulf coast of Texas, I've pulled a clean shirt out of the dresser drawer or closed closet and could actually feel the weight of moisture from the high humidity in it. I've no doubt that a 3 second pre press would not be enough in that kind of extreem case.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

grumpster said:


> Not all presses are the same, and even within the same line, there are variables despite what the manufactures say. Get a RayTech non contact tempature gun (available through textile suppliers and some autoparts stores (NAPA) for about $50.00) and verify that your press is actually running at the temp that you think it is. It could be that the tempature is off even though it say's it isn't. Verify it with a non contact thermomenter.
> 
> Possibly, you just got a bad batch of transfers. Before writing the company off entirely, ask them to send you another sample, explaning the problem your having now and try it again. It's possible that you just got a bad batch or something.
> 
> ...


yes, after all is set and perfect, *even the Economy Model of plastisol transfers* ( $ 1.50/ea. for 1 color, 24 pcs.) should apply in 6-8 seconds HOT PEEL.

There is no question that first choice makes good transfers, but various transfer makers make them different, as the poster has demonstrated. 

after researching the universe for all types of transfers, i can tell you that there is a difference between transfer A and B. 

No matter what transfer company you use, be it the slow way or the fast way of printing shirts, you need to ask the transfer maker to make your custom transfers exactly how you want them. This is where some may or may not be set-up for the job. Never the less, once they are made one needs to follow the apply setting accordingly.


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