# JetPro Softstretch Transfers cracking



## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

First...details. Printing with Epson stylus 1400/ Armor Ink from Best Blanks...working well. Printing on JetPro Softstretch Transfers for light colors....
Press as directed/30 seconds on 50/50 Gildan white .... Stretched shirt before press....typically COLD PEEL, ( we notice NO loss of ink transfer when cold peeling) Have tried HOT PEEL....usually pulls tiny areas of ink ....longer we wait to peel....less ink loss.
END RESULT: With cold peel, we have an outstanding looking shirt after press. Vibrant color, soft touch, professional look!
Washing however is where things change!! We started with wash tests as directed...COLD water.....Many many hairline cracks....most not noticable unless even minor stretch occurs....but mixed with very noticable cracks!
HOT WATER wash....maybe...just maybe a little better....but basically same issue.

I have read threads on this subject...but unless I missed something....didnt really find the answer....if it exists! 
By its name and advertising....JPSS is not supposed to crack....yet it obviously does for enough of us.....but is it just a particular way....exact set of instructions that will produce this desired result!!

It is worth noting that I did exactly...exactly the same test side by side with 100% cotton shirts...every variable of the process exactly identical. The cotton shirt seemed to be far less noticeable....it did crack...but at least it was only hairline cracks, and not as severely. However....it did crack!

I know this is an age old issue....and threads have been written about....I just am hoping someone can enlighten me....or expand on this subject further.
IDEAS.....I'll test!!

Thanks ahead of time..... 

Grizz


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

I think you need to add more weight in your pressing. I used 185'C for 25sec and press in very heavy and peel hot.


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## Shuffy (Sep 3, 2005)

Hi everyone . . 

Kirk . . for me . . I hot peel from top left to bottom right and peel at an even motion . . *if that makes any sense*~ . . . once I pull the shirt from the press, I give it a good shake and THEN stretch the shirt from armpit to shoulder and then from shoulder to armpit . . 

I've done ---1000's--- of shirt with the JPSS . . and only had one issue . . I ran out of transfers before my next order arrived . . . 

Diane
;o]


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## polomac (Jun 27, 2006)

JPSS is a hot peel transfer paper. You need to peel right after you lift your press head. 370 degree at 30 seconds firm pressure hot peel. Wait 48 hours before washing the t-shirt.


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## TransferThis (May 6, 2008)

I've used JPSS on many shirts and recently started cold peeling (which I like much better, but that's just my preference). So far all of my shirts have held up nicely w/o any cracks. I am using firm pressure with the settings of 375 for 30 seconds and do not wash for 24 hours.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

JPSS is a hot OR cold peel transfer.

If you wash it in cold water after peeling it cold, you WILL see cracks in it.

Let me ask you this...if you're washing it in HOT water for it's FIRST wash after hot peeling, what sort of cracks are you seeing? Yes, if you pull the shirt enough you will see "cracks" where the ribs of the fabric are. There's no real way to eliminate that, especially with a transfer with so little hand, and especially on white garments.

BTW, I prefer cold peel, too.


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## polomac (Jun 27, 2006)

Sorry JPSS is not a cold peel. Instruction are hot peel right after time is off. Only why a forum member tried a cold peel doesn't make it a cold peel. I have done 5000 transfers with jpss all Hot Peel no problem from my clients with cracking or fading. Press firm setting 375 for 30 sec. Peel right away hot wash after 48 hours. I'm only my opinion from my experience with jpss transfer paper.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

polomac said:


> Sorry JPSS is not a cold peel. Instruction are hot peel right after time is off. Only why a forum member tried a cold peel doesn't make it a cold peel. I have done 5000 transfers with jpss all Hot Peel no problem from my clients with cracking or fading. Press firm setting 375 for 30 sec. Peel right away hot wash after 48 hours. I'm only my opinion from my experience with jpss transfer paper.


I agree that JPSS may be directed as a "hot Peel" , but with each press that I have done Hot Peel, I have lost ink on the peeling process. It also give you a more coarser feel to the shirt. This is the reason why many users have tried cold peel. I respect your expertise as well as your experience, but it still fall back to "What works best for you". I have had cracking and slight initial fading with both Hot and Cold Peel. I have washed only in cold, used bleach, and sometimes didn't turn the shirt inside out, but this was to see how good of a product JPSS was.


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## Chani (Jun 18, 2007)

Quote from Coastal Business' website:



Coastal Business said:


> *This is our first product for both hot and cold peel.*




That's what got me to post the thread, "Jet-Pro SofStretch Cold Peel...WOW!"

It's a hot OR cold peel paper. You get different results depending on which way you peel it.

I personally prefer cold-peel.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I am still playing with the paper and HP dye inks. On my fifth wash I had bleed and on the sixth the bleed washed away. I do see a bit of fade in the red ink areas but I can live with that.

I have solved the cracking issues initially experienced with the paper. You know when you stretch the printed tee and watch your solid color areas sep. My first reaction was this stuff is junk and forget stretching period.

I am using heavy pressure now on 50/50 tees and always hot peel. I mean real heavy pressure and the cracking or sep. problem has been resolved.

I have an Epson c120 arriving today with the durabrite inks. I hope I dont run into the color shifting problem but we shall see.

As far as not washing a printed tee for 48 hours...I dont think anything is going to change on a molecular level from the time the shirt is cooled until two days from print.

Cold peel...well its not in the instruction but I have hot peeled cold peel plastisol transfers to achieve a desired look so whatever works for you. I have no problems hot peeling and have never had inks lift or not transfer completely.

My two cents and what I personally have experienced with JPSS.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I am still playing with the paper and HP dye inks. On my fifth wash I had bleed and on the sixth the bleed washed away. I do see a bit of fade in the red ink areas but I can live with that.
> 
> I have solved the cracking issues initially experienced with the paper. You know when you stretch the printed tee and watch your solid color areas sep. My first reaction was this stuff is junk and forget stretching period.
> 
> ...


I am using an Hp 1220 Large format printer with 78 45 Hp ink. I love the way that my designs print out and transfer, but I have had a little fading and hair line cracks also. Could this be the HP pigmented inks? Is there another ink that I can use for this printer that will give me better results.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I think your 1220 uses two ink carts. and they may be dye-based. Do you see any Vivera logos on your inks or machine. I dont know about after market pigment inks for your HP. I am printer shopping for a large format and am still looking at the HP printers as well as the Epsons and even a Canon.

I need to cover two bases, film output for screen printing and transfers.

HP inks can get confusing as I think there is two types of Vivera available. I think the pigment inks only come as sep. color carts. and black in both Vivera types.

I know this doesnt help you much and really I havent had bad problems with the dye inks. Just a bit of fading with the red and one mysterious bleed that went away in the wash.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I think your 1220 uses two ink carts. and they may be dye-based. Do you see any Vivera logos on your inks or machine. I dont know about after market pigment inks for your HP. I am printer shopping for a large format and am still looking at the HP printers as well as the Epsons and even a Canon.
> 
> I need to cover two bases, film output for screen printing and transfers.
> 
> ...


Thanks. The Hp ink that I use is a pigmented ink. I made sure of this b4 I actually bought the printer. I contacted Hp as well as other ink suppliers. I dont know if the ink is the issue, I hope it isn't, because I get wonderful printer fom this printer. I saw another one on ebay a couple of days ago. I bought mine from ebay for about $120. It came with new ink and I haven't had to change it yet.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

dynamicdesynz said:


> Thanks. The Hp ink that I use is a pigmented ink. I made sure of this b4 I actually bought the printer. I contacted Hp as well as other ink suppliers. I dont know if the ink is the issue, I hope it isn't, because I get wonderful printer fom this printer. I saw another one on ebay a couple of days ago. I bought mine from ebay for about $120. It came with new ink and I haven't had to change it yet.


HP reps told my friend his large format came with pigment inks as well and it didnt. Only the black was pigment.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> HP reps told my friend his large format came with pigment inks as well and it didnt. Only the black was pigment.


that sux. U just bought a Ciss for mine, just waiting for it to arrive. The inks are pigmented for that as well.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

The rep also said it didnt print borderless and it does. The HP inks are real confusing when trying to get the right gear.


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Thanks for all the assistance....EVERYONE.
One thing about the cracking....I understand it will crack somewhat when stretched..and tighten back up when not,( my only issue with this is pressing on garments for young women.....example: spaghetti strap tank tops, which are tight fitting, ...with all due respect....for some women very tight fitting, and in those cases the image is obviously cracked!!) 

But even on t-shirts...I just don't expect it too crack so much. 

I will run a few more tests varying my pressure...( I have stayed with a consistant pressure so far in my testing)

By the way...washing right after ...or 24 hr...48 hr later....hasnt seemed to matter.

I'm relatively still new to heat transfers....expectations may be too high for what I'm wanting......YET....I have seen it done and this sticks in my head!! 

Thanks again everyone.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Grizzly said:


> Thanks for all the assistance....EVERYONE.
> One thing about the cracking....I understand it will crack somewhat when stretched..and tighten back up when not,( my only issue with this is pressing on garments for young women.....example: spaghetti strap tank tops, which are tight fitting, ...with all due respect....for some women very tight fitting, and in those cases the image is obviously cracked!!)
> 
> But even on t-shirts...I just don't expect it too crack so much.
> ...


I had exactly the same issues as you and high expectations as well. My initial reation was I cant sell this product. My first thought was what about the ladies tanks...no way!

Try the heavy pressure and then even more pressure. It made a big difference in my results.


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

One more thing about the cracking issue....

I basically agree that hot peel does seem to change the effect of cracking.
Obviously hot peeling gives you a more matte finish...but it also seems to not be so obviously cracked. My only problem hot peeling has been INK LIFT OFF....I just made that term up i think  Maybe not....NASA beat me too it. 
I'm thinking MORE PRESSURE...WARM PEEL, may be what I'm after.... 
COLD peel gives a shiny smooth finish ....that I think most of us are liking....but when washed it just cracks way too much.

TESTS are on their way today for me......I will report back what I see .

THANK YOU ALL AGAIN!!!!


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Moto

I will do that and report back!!!!


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## MYDAMIT (Jan 14, 2007)

i think jetpro can handle pigment and dyebase ink. I have epson 1400 dyebase ink and the result is good no fading and cracking. i washed 2 times with soap and dryer still no fading.


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

Greetings Kirk,

Before we offered Jet-Pro SofStretch paper we did over 50 test prints and over a dozen different wash/water tests. These even included “weird” things that nobody would do....except a new person.

Based on probably more test results than even the factory did, we concluded that the paper was essentially a hot peel paper. Could it be peeled cold? Yes. Would we suggest that method? No. We would only suggest hot peeling.

The reasons are varied, of which cracking is only one issue. On a non-technical basis, peeled hot, the film retains a nice degree of elasticity. Peeled cold, it does not.

Our conclusion does not disagree with anyone's opinions about the desirability of peeling cold. Whatever floats a person's boat just fills our sails with wind and we never argue.

I may or may not have stepped over the line on what appears to be self-promotion (Trust me, I'm not. Plenty of dealers sell this paper). However, I sometimes cannot figure out a way to present facts, without laying a supporting foundation of issues, methodology and techniques.

Have a nice day!


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Jack

I have been busy pressin....and the priliminary results for me seem to strongly show that .....
What I call "hot/warm" peel works perfectly....in that I didnt get any ink lift off as I did if I just peeled immediately. Hot/warm I will define by time...approx 4 to 5 seconds....I peel. No ink lift off....beautiful image....super soft feel!
ONE MORE BIG STEP.......I stretched the shirt right after I peeled it.....it was still hot and tacky.....so the transfer had the ability to sink into the fiber of the shirt where stretched....if that makes sense? 

NOW TO THE WASH....

So far....I printed very large images on white 50/50....did the above procedure....and the after 1st wash results.....ARE MUCH BETTER!!!!
No bleeds....I have to strain my eyes and really hunt for cracks...( minor hairline)....but there just arent any like before....AND.....I stretched the shirt slightly....it is withstanding the stretching without cracking!!!!
I know if I stretch enough I could blow it up....

ALSO....no non-image transfer footprint!!
The image is all I am seeing ....again if I look hard I can see traces of non image transfer around outter edge....but its blended very well!

So...this is only 1 test....and only 1 wash!
I'm not done.....back to the lab!!!!!!!!!!









I hope....I really hope....this will be consistant results with this JPSS transfers.....so far....the finished product is now....up to where I wanted to see in respects to QUALITY!!!

Will test much more....and post later any results or changes.....
I hope this may help those that have been scratching bald spots on their head...trying to figure this out.

THANKS LOU.....


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

Greetings Again Kirk,

I'm sending another post to share a few thoughts in another area, that may be helpful. My thoughts are based on your excerpted statement; "expectations may be too high for what I'm wanting".

There is absolutely nothing wrong with high expectations. However, you will keep your stress-level much lower if you also have realistic expectations.

Simply put, every product, process and procedure has limitations. Every one of them! No exceptions. On a more colloquial basis, I advise our clients that everything that they will do has an upside and a downside. In most cases it is a matter of finding the upside that they must have and then making sure that they know what’s the downside, so it can be managed.

Over the decades, I have seen many spend an inordinate amount of time, money and energy on trying to make something do what it wasn’t intended to do. Often, had the same amount been spent on realistic work, the results would have been instantly profitable.

In almost every case, we are our own worst critic and hardest to please person. In the old retail days I worked on the principle that as long as the customer was happy (excluding that 1% that would complain about the weight of a free gold ingot) everybody, especially me, was happy.

Well, dinner is waiting so I'll end here by wishing you good luck.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

Grizzly said:


> Thanks Jack
> 
> I have been busy pressin....and the priliminary results for me seem to strongly show that .....
> What I call "hot/warm" peel works perfectly....in that I didnt get any ink lift off as I did if I just peeled immediately. Hot/warm I will define by time...approx 4 to 5 seconds....I peel. No ink lift off....beautiful image....super soft feel!
> ...


Thanks Lou, You have really opened my eyes to a new dept. Its funny that your result can vary so much just by a matter of time(4 secs). I have gotten ink residue left over after a direct hot peel. I have also noticed slight cracking after a cold peel. I will try the 4 sec warm peel to see if my results are better. 
Have you tested this method on 100 cottoncotton. Most of my shirts are 100% cotton.
Thanks


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

BigBear said:


> Greetings Again Kirk,
> 
> I'm sending another post to share a few thoughts in another area, that may be helpful. My thoughts are based on your excerpted statement; "expectations may be too high for what I'm wanting".
> 
> ...


 

Hi, as a Somewhat Newbie, I can't agree with you more. You have hit the nail completely on the head with this bit of enlightenment. When I 1st began pressing (3 months ago) I didn't know what to expect. SO I came to WONDERLAND(t-shirtforum.com), to find out what I could. I look on google, checked tshirt sites, went in store, the works, Trying to find a STANDARD for the shirts that I would be pressing.
It took 3 months and a lot of compliments from other people, to get me to see that as long as the customer likes the sirts, the design, and it hold up after being washed, All is good.It's haer though because we all want our work to be or look PERFECT. It's an addiction. Reality has been my Rehab and I am Stress Free for 1 1/2 months.. lol
Thanks


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Jack,
What you say is true.....and taken well. I am in fact the harshest critic of my own work!! Not sure if I want to much out of these transfers or not....could be.....but I'm bull headed and veer away from the pack in an effort to find out for myself. ( I've disproved things before and so I am this way..=)

Today....I'm reasonably happy with the results I have gotten. I seek to get the best results I can....and I'm right there.

Thanks to all for your posts...MUCH APPRECIATED!! 

Kirk


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

dynamicdesynz said:


> Thanks Lou, You have really opened my eyes to a new dept. Its funny that your result can vary so much just by a matter of time(4 secs). I have gotten ink residue left over after a direct hot peel. I have also noticed slight cracking after a cold peel. I will try the 4 sec warm peel to see if my results are better.
> Have you tested this method on 100 cottoncotton. Most of my shirts are 100% cotton.
> Thanks


both cotton and 50/50.....results 99% the same!! Cotton has a fuzz....if you will....its just normal with cotton, and it does screen the image slightly. There is no image loss....just a pinch...and I mean a pinch of dullness to it compared to 50/50.
Frankly....nothing to worry about in my opinion
Only possible advantage could be that 100% cotton does not stretch like 50/50.....maybe! However it does stretch enough to crack a transfer......do I sound like I'm talking in circles.....welcome to my world!!=)

SUPPER TIME........"step away from the press"!!! Put your hands up and step away from the press!!

Kirk


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Kirk, I read this thread rather quickly, but I am not sure I read anywhere about "Pre-pressing" your shirt for about 5-10 seconds to remove the moisture from the shirt. 

I believe the "stretch" is very important. I stretch the shirt, gently, prior to the pre press to open the weave. Pre-press to dry the material, press, peel, re-stretch and re-press about 5 seconds. I wash without waiting any specific time period, and have no issues with cracking or fading. I use the Jerzees and Gildans 5050's. My Hanes beefy tees don't look quite as sharp. They are 100 % cotton.

The fiber lift you see in the 100 cottons will increase over time with washings and may give the shirt an appearance of fading, which it isn't, it's just got the fuzzy fibers raised above the image. I've been told this can easily be reversed by ironing the area of the image later on. I don't want to go there with a customer so I stick with the 50/50's because they just resist the tendency to lift like that.

I used to use Ironall light, and if I can say one thing I desperately miss is the way that paper peeled off like butter. The image was soft and smooth right after the buttery peel. Gosh. I miss that now that I use JPSS, but that is ALL I miss about Ironall light. When peeling JPSS, I find the paper 'grabs" the front of the shirt. I don't like that, haven't from day one, and I don't like the "fine grit" feel of the image. This does go away with washings, but - eh - Ironall doesn't feel like that. I chalk it up to the fact that Ironall fades, and JPSS doesn't - maybe what ever causes this grit and grab is also the reason for the superior color retention. 

I am always on the search for how to reduce that grit and get a buttery peel. I have read posts where folks have peeled so super immediately upon raising the platen, they burn themselves, but the claimed to have gotten the buttery peel and reduced/no grit finish. I am racing and practicing trying to get that fast. Not there yet, but have seen improvement.

Hot or cold peel? I agree that on the Coastal website, the instructions there are hot or cold peel, but on the directions themselves that come with paper, from Coastal, it only says Hot Peel. That's conflicting info. Seems everyone is just following their gut instinct, and alot of times, that's just best anyway.

If anyone wants a link on step by step pressing info, here's a link: 
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39007.html#post229735

It's basically a longer version of the how and why's of what I've written above, but gives alot more detail. Have a nice day all. This forum really is awesome the way everyone shares what's working and what's not working for them. Best regards, Kelly


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Hi Kelly,

Yes I pre-pressed ....I like a pressed flat surface and of course to get the moisture out. I'm at a point now that I believe I may be getting the best out of these transfers....and to that effect, I'm very happy with JPSS. My issue is that to put a quality product....quality being defined by me of course....in order to compete in markets where cracking of any kind is not acceptable......I'm just right on the border line of being able to comfortably do it! I'm a fighter and so I keep testing...making little changes here....and there....today.....I have results that are the following with JPSS:

Love the blue lines on the back of the transfers for alignment....NICE!! 
No bleeds of any kind!
Vibrant "BANG" color.....lovin that! Retains that color, even after wash!
Almost invisable non image area ( non image area transfer....edges around graphic) very clean
Soft hand....in fact about the best I've experienced to date...

A middle ground on PEELING ease....I'm peeling after 4-5 seconds max...I call this WARM peel rather than HOT peel.....mind you....its still hot....but just those few seconds resolves any ink lift off, and still gives me an easy pull...and a middle ground on texture.....Not Smooth like COLD peel....not gritty like HOT...in the middle which actually I'm liking the most! Texture matches closely to shirt!
Oh if only these shirts would remain the way they look after pressing....I've got a fantastic looking shirt....but
WASHING.....I've tried all kinds of washes....hot, cold, inside out, detergents, bleach....yada yada.....basically arrived at the fact that it doesnt seem to matter.....I still get a minimal amount of hairline cracks....not nearly like I did before....but they are there....
For the average t-shirt ....looks great! As long as it will not be worn in a stretched state....tight. For womens apparel....such as speghetti strap tanks..it is my opinion that it just doesnt measure up, and I wont....not cant....but wont use this method of printing on this type of garment! 

SO.....heres my almost end result......some markets I can easily and comfortably sell JPSS pressed shirts....no problem.....others I will personally look at Plastisol Transfers. The above mentioned womens apparel ...this will apply.

GREAT FORUM....GREAT INFORMATION.....and again.....I thank you all for your time and energy of in-putting information.....very helpful!!!

I hope in my laymens way of talking, and my lumbering way of testing and reporting .....it may help someone out there....
OK.....gotta work.....have a Harley Davidson poker run event shirts to BANG out....

Thanks again,

Kirk


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

dynamicdesynz said:


> ...Its funny that your result can vary so much just by a matter of time(4 secs)...


As my mother used to say, "The Devil is truly in the details".

Four seconds becomes a very large number when compared, for example, to 12 seconds. Adding the two numbers increases time by 25%. A 25% increase of anything is a lot!

Sometimes this is crucial; sometimes it is not. Pre-pressing a shirt 5 or 10 seconds matters not a whit, while increasing pressure even a quarter turn can make a big difference.

When testing anything, change only one thing at a time. To test something else, reset the first test to original guides. Only after two separate test have been run should two items be changed together.

I think I'll stop here before I give the appearance of "straining at gnats to produce camels".

My original point was that the Devil is often in the details; in business and in life.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Pre-pressing does matter, and so does pressure, but, the pressure advice had already been given, it appeared pre-pressing advice was skipped - I thought, "No need to be redundant."

Nothing for nothing, but trying to get a water resistant ink into a wet substrate almost seems like trying to mix oil and water. There is almost steam coming off some of the shirts when I pre-press, that's all water. For those of us that pre-press, we believe in it. I do know one woman who "spritzes" her shirts with water prior to pressing, for the life of me, I can't get my mind around it. She loves her results. For me, seeing that water come out of the shirt on a pre-press makes it impossible to believe it is not a necessary step.


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

I am humbled by the fact that so many variables....any one even slightly adjusted can make such a difference.

This...of all things may be the most infinate thing I am learning!!

Since we all have some variable differences....what works for one may not another...and so...testing is where it seems to be that we all need to do....to the best of our ability and resources.

JACK: my testing was pretty thorough....only 1 variable adjusted at a time...compared....etc..etc.. Luckily I have the resources to expend the time, $$, and effort ....but many dont and so that is why I wanted to share in this process with others...if for nothing else to just instigate ideas!! 
I hope it may have helped someone.....it helped me!
Thanks

NOW.....I'm hungry!! =)


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

I agree Kelly....pre-press is just one of the variables I believe to be a necessary one. I apologize for not stating that I was pre-pressing....maybe took it for granted! Kinda given in my mind since so much is publicly written about it....and most do it! Anyway...I did forget to state I was pre-pressing.....I like a flat pre-pressed surfaced...and I too....at times...see a puff of steam come off some shirts! In the end...works for me!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Okay, well good news, Kirk. I also I agree with you, too, that there are soooo many variables, it's no wonder an entire section of the forum could be dedicated to heat pressing. Someone once knocked heat pressing with transfer papers as being so easy, nothing to it. It may look that way from the onset or the outside, but once you start, you realize - not so. 

In one post, I commented while there are only a few steps to producing a terrific transfer, there are a thousand little ways to really screw it up. 

That's the real learning curve.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I read this section and learn so very much. I want to do more transfers but am always afraid of the quality. I tend to stay with plastisol. I think I will build a dtg machine. I do mainly lesft chest anyway. .... JB


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Kelly makes a good point.....and mostly about how easy it is to heat press an image on a garment....sure its easy...what does it look like though? I can thow paint on a garment and call it done! Thats easy too... The fact is...it isnt so easy to press a garment with a level of quality factors most of us are looking for! SOme will strive with results that to them are great.....others will be alot more picky...with all due respect, a higher level of quaity and expectation..... and that can be determined by their individual market.....I unfortunately fall into this group and fight like bloody hell to attain that! Whether thats good or bad....it just is for me. I'm just honory that way...=) Long ago.....who would have thought you could race a lil ole VW BUG in the Baja 500?? But they did....and not only did they... they did it successfully!! Was it worth it? Was it cost effective.....well....these are things to learn as we go.....in our business and in our processes......
If I can get answers thru this forum, and share them....good deal I say!!

I have learned alot from this....and I know that learning won't stop here, and of course the more things I observe and learn...I will share!! Thanks


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Wanting to produce the best quality transfer I can is what lead me to this forum. I feel this forum has given me everything I was looking for, and the top few steps that took me where I wanted to go was personal testing. I know there's an expense in it, and a time delay was involved holding up buying stock and selling, but I wanted to see the different shirts in action. That one step alone sent my eyes wide open. The varied results I got in my testing, only by changing the shirt I was using, was amazing. 

Advice and tweaking are a great help, but at the end of the day, there is no substitute for getting alone with your printer, press, ink, paper and shirt, and sending it all through the wash. That's when you see what rises to the top, and what falls off as a failure. I washed all my shirts according to wash instruction, picked out the survivors, and then sent the rest through wash test "heck" . Then I picked the best out of that. My customers probably won't change their washing machine settings for my shirt - I don't - so I figured I wanted to see what they will see later on. 

It' true, Kirk, once we get the right products in our hands, how far we go with them from there all depends on who's looking for what and where they want to go. I just wanted to offer folks something I could be proud of, and something they could own for a long time and feel they got their money's worth.


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## Grizzly (May 19, 2008)

Kelly, 
I hear ya,..I hear ya,...oh....and I really hear ya!!   

Back at ya...lol

Your words are so so true....and though you stated it better than I, basically thats what I am trying to say.

My testing is not done....I've learned much...and gotten better results to this point.....most of all....my gut tells me "I CAN!"

I know I can get what I'm after...I'm too close now to settle for less!!

Great stuff on this forum! Thanks


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> ...Pre-pressing does matter,..


I think your post was in reference to my preceding post. After re-reading my post, I realized the ambiguity.

My reference to pre-pressing 5 or 10 seconds not mattering a whit, was a reference to one or the other; not a suggestion that it was not necessary.

Water boils at 212 F. The 360-380 temp of a heat press blows it out of a shirt so fast that only a few seconds is needed.

It is absolutely necessary. Otherwise, steam is trapped under the transfer and interferes with a good "stick" on the shirt.

We also did some mobile retail in our old retail days. On high humidity days I've heard shirts sound a bit like frying bacon.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I did read it as you thought I might, thank you for taking the time to clarify. I understand it now as you meant it, that how many seconds doesn't matter, 5 or 10.

I am also glad to hear that you find it as necessary as we feel it is -- there are only a few folks in the biz a long time, and you are one of them.


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

Girlzndollz said:


> ...there are only a few folks in the biz a long time, and you are one of them.


Thank you, for the implied compliment. I usually feel a bit young in spirit, at least until my granddaughters ask me something like, "Gee, grandpa, did you have TV when you were a little boy?"

When I have to confess, "no" I tell myself that at least experience counts for something.

Your comment was as gracious a way to not say "old-timer" as I have ever read.

I hope you had a great weekend!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LOL, Jack, it was no "implied" compliment, that was a direct compliment!!
_You turned it around on me_!  

My mother and I were just remarking on how we don't feel different inside than 20 years ago... I think it's a new trend, sounds like you are a part of it!


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## The March Hare (Feb 13, 2009)

i've enjoyed reading this thread. 
i'm just getting started heat pressing tees in New Zealand and i'm limited by what paper i can get my hands on - not JPSS though!! I don't know what the hell i'm really doing and been a bit lost in the thousands of posts on this site.
My first run of printing and washing hasn't been very successful, BUT: a) i'm expecting to just nail it first time which clearly isn't going to happen b) I have to be methodical while i experiment with the best settings/shirts/paper etc.. 
i'm just gonna slow down make a plan and get the best result i can
thanks to all for the good advice


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