# Has anyone used Chemica Hotmark Revolution HTV?



## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Hello,
I have to print a vinyl logo on some Nike 100% polyester track tank tops/singlets that are temperature sensitive. I have found online that Chemica Hotmark Revolution is low temp and can be pressed as low as 230-245 F. 

Has anyone used Chemica Hotmark Revolution before? Recommend?

I've already printed on a few of the tank tops using Siser Easyweed at 270 F (Siser tech support said thats the lowest temp) and there is still a very light box showing when I press the HTV...even after test washing two of them.


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

Chemica Hotmark is my favorite transfer vinyl. It's considerably thinner than Siser and produces a softer feel. However I was disappointed with the Revolution for polyester for the opposite reason. It's quite thick and stiff.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Thanks for the reply.

Im ok with thick, at least for this job.
Did the Revolution stick well and were you able to prevent the "box" or any discoloration of the polyester? 

Thanks!


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

Yes, I applied it on red polyester (in my experience the worst color for bleeding) and it was fine and adhered well. I just didn't like the thickness, especially on the flimsy fabric.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Thanks!

I'm planning to make a sample order today or tomorrow. 
Its the only vinyl that is applied at a lower temp than 265/270 F,
so I feel like I have no choice but to give it a try and hope it doesn't leave 
a shiny box on the shirt. With your experience and with after I made a call to Heat Transfer Warehouse and to Chemica sales, I feel its my best option.

BTW, I know what you mean about that thick feeling of vinyl on a thin flimsy fabric.


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## TrueNorthGear (Sep 27, 2005)

Results Cut by Top Dog Films applies as low as 250 degrees.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

TrueNorthGear said:


> Results Cut by Top Dog Films applies as low as 250 degrees.


Thanks! I'll check it out. 
This year I'm doing a lot of shirts for the different
clubs, groups, classes, and teams for my old high school and they often use 100% polyester dri-fit shirts that seem to be heat sensitive. So I really need as many options as possible to tackle the shiny box left after pressing!


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

The shiny box is probably caused by the edges of the carrier for the vinyl. Keep it to a minimum by using a pad under the fabric and be sure your carrier sheet is larger than the pad.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Ripcord said:


> The shiny box is probably caused by the edges of the carrier for the vinyl. Keep it to a minimum by using a pad under the fabric and be sure your carrier sheet is larger than the pad.



hmmm...it first happens when I do a 4-5 sec prepress (using pad & cover sheet) to remove moisture, so no carrier,and the lightly discolored/faded box is the size of the pad , then again when I press the vinyl & shirt on the pad. I use either parchment paper or teflon sheet on top.

I used medium pressure for the Easyweed, but then I had to use higher pressure for the Easyweed stretch (two color design and stretch is what I use for my white vinyl) or else it starts to peel in wash.

So I should make sure the carrier is larger than the pad, correct? If so, Ill be sure to do that.

BTW, I made the pad myself using some thin foam placemats between two teflon heat press sheets, taped closed with thermo tape. Its pretty firm similar to the heat press pad on my platen. but does have a "give" to it.

Im wondering if its user error or too much pressure, because when I search online and in this forum, people are pressing on 100% poly shirts at a higher temp than me (265/270) and are doing fine.


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

That's a good tip right there. Where can I buy some of those place mats? (The cushions are a little pricey...)


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal 
same cumulative time, but a little window of the shirt not under the direct heat and cooling slightly while you peel and re-cover with the parchment

(if you have a cold peel then it becomes a timing issue, just enough to release and peeled fairly warm on the platen
it will take a little experimentation to find the sweet spot)


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Ripcord said:


> That's a good tip right there. Where can I buy some of those place mats? (The cushions are a little pricey...)


My sister got the placemats at the Dollar Store!
The first few presses breaks them in, and it ends up a little thinner.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

into the T said:


> you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal
> same cumulative time, but a little window of the shirt not under the direct heat and cooling slightly while you peel and re-cover with the parchment
> 
> (if you have a cold peel then it becomes a timing issue, just enough to release and peeled fairly warm on the platen
> it will take a little experimentation to find the sweet spot)


Great tip! Thanks


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## Ripcord (Sep 2, 2006)

into the T said:


> you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal


I press all my transfers twice; the initial press and then one with parchment paper. Not only does it insure a good bond, the parchment gives the transfer a pleasing matte finish so it looks more like a screen print. 

It's an extra step but I only use transfers for small quantities. I did the math on it once and for a one color job, more than six shirts is faster and cheaper for me to to screen print.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Ripcord said:


> I press all my transfers twice; the initial press and then one with parchment paper. Not only does it insure a good bond, the parchment gives the transfer a pleasing matte finish so it looks more like a screen print.
> 
> It's an extra step but I only use transfers for small quantities. I did the math on it once and for a one color job, more than six shirts is faster and cheaper for me to to screen print.


Yeah, I do a second press with just parchment paper too.

BTW I got the Chemica Hotmark Revolution vinyl and it is actually nice when I tested it at 230 F, BUT I'm still getting a shiny box when I heat press the 100% polyester Dri-Fit shirts at 230 F with medium pressure.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

and it does not go away when cooled?


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## Amw (Jul 2, 2012)

Just a thought...do you have a good way to test your presses temp?
As much trouble as your having, If you can I would check your temp to be sure it is correct. 

I also hear some people use a flexible heat pad on sensitive products (kind of like the green ones for dye sub, but i think they are gray and maybe thinner) maybe that would help.
Maybe this??
https://www.stahls.com/heat-press-flexible-application-pad


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

Amw said:


> Just a thought...do you have a good way to test your presses temp?
> As much trouble as your having, If you can I would check your temp to be sure it is correct.
> 
> I also hear some people use a flexible heat pad on sensitive products (kind of like the green ones for dye sub, but i think they are gray and maybe thinner) maybe that would help.
> ...



Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, I thought the same thing and checked my press using with an analog meat probe, a Weber bbq grill thermometer, a digital meat probe, and with an IR temp gun.

I use a teflon cover sheet, but I will definitely check out that pad. Someone else mentioned it too!

I bought the Chemica Hotmark Revolution HTV and tested it at 230F w/ medium pressure and I still got the faint shiny box....but on my most recent question that I posted today it was mentioned that a shiny box was to be expected since the 100% polyester Dri-fit shirts were dark green and that dark colored poly shirts were notorious for the shiny box. 
@splathead mentioned that when he does 100% poly shirts, he uses a pillow the size of his press instead of a small pillow like I have been using which makes the lines of the box on the far edges of the shirt further from the design and less noticeable. Siser vinyl tech support said for me to try pressing the whole shirt to remove the lines. BUT what I found today that helped to get rid of the lines, was to gently "erase" the lines using a home iron set to about 280-320F. It helps that the Hotmark Revolution vinyl can be pressed at 230F and I do it at barely medium pressure....so the box that does show up is very very faint....so the iron takes care of the rest.


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## embprints (Sep 13, 2016)

into the T said:


> and it does not go away when cooled?


Thanks for the reply.

No it doesn't. Not even after I washed the test shirt. I even tried rubbing it with my hands and brushing with a lint brush. What did end up removing the box lines is a normal home iron set to 280-320F. I just gently "erase" the lines away with the iron. With the Chemica Hotmark revolution HTV allowing me to press at 230F at medium pressure, the box is now very faint and the iron takes care of the rest. Someone mentioned that dark green 100% poly shirts and other dark colors, are notorious for the shiny box left after pressing.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

i would begin to narrow it down to the press,
because it seems to be the one variable that is out of whack
(just going by the info you and others have posted)

if you have access to another press, try it
if not see if you can get some temperature test strips (maybe a furnace/hvac supply house),
and test your actual platen temp

i know a quirk with mine is i can't leave it resting on the bottom platen or it overheats,
so in between presses (and while it is initially heating up) i leave it up or to the side


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## Lees Custom (Mar 1, 2013)

Ripcord said:


> Chemica Hotmark is my favorite transfer vinyl. It's considerably thinner than Siser and produces a softer feel. However I was disappointed with the Revolution for polyester for the opposite reason. It's quite thick and stiff.


This was my reaction to it as well. Stuff weeds nice, but I generally use Stahl's mainly because I don't vinyl Poly very often.


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## Lees Custom (Mar 1, 2013)

embprints said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'm planning to make a sample order today or tomorrow.
> Its the only vinyl that is applied at a lower temp than 265/270 F,
> ...


Stahl's Flexible Application Pads (Basically a rubber transfer sheet cover) will help avoid the box. As for sticking, I have found it depends how it is washed.

Polyester fabric, being synthetic, doesn't really need fabric softener and fabric softener will kill the adhesive glue under the vinyl.

I have poly shirts I printed for my business 5 years ago, that the vinyl is still on (mind you I wear and wash them basically every other week). I have done it for customers who gave the garment back to me stinking of fabric softener and it falls off. I have tested this myself for years with varying results based on the brand of vinyl, brand of shirt, but generally speaking, fabric softener ruins printing. My GF has even damaged some of my Metallica shirts by using too much fabric softener in the wash too many times.


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## Bonook (Jun 28, 2017)

I know this is an old Post but I'm having the same issue. has anyone found low temp vinyl that sticks well and feels good or stretches when applied to 100% polyester? I've mainly been using easy weed stretch and applying at the lowest temp for the longest time(270 x20 sec) still get boxes.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

Bonook said:


> I know this is an old Post but I'm having the same issue. has anyone found low temp vinyl that sticks well and feels good or stretches when applied to 100% polyester? I've mainly been using easy weed stretch and applying at the lowest temp for the longest time(270 x20 sec) still get boxes.



check this thread out on thermoflex/joto turbo htv

260f for 5 secs (i also do cover with parchment paper and do a repress for ~4secs after peeling)


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## Bonook (Jun 28, 2017)

check this thread out on thermoflex/joto turbo htv

260f for 5 secs (i also do cover with parchment paper and do a repress for ~4secs after peeling)[/QUOTE]




Thanks! 👏


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