# Acid Etching Stencil Question



## tcrowder (Apr 27, 2006)

I had a young lady ask me last night if there was an acid etch stencil out there I could run through my plotter and weed for her. I have no clue about stencil material and could use some information/suggestions. Thanks in advance for your replies.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

i do it on a regular basis with Oracal 651 and Oracal 641.
it works perfectly, although extra precautions must be taken when aplling the vinyl stencil, it must pe PERFECTY apllied, or the etching cream will runt undearnith the edges and spoil the item you're working on.
but i don't know what kind of etching acid are you talking about.
i use etch all cream and the liquid etching also. (and two more brands)


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## tcrowder (Apr 27, 2006)

cmyk said:


> i do it on a regular basis with Oracal 651 and Oracal 641.
> it works perfectly,


I thought of using standard vinyl, the problem is using it more than once. It would be a real pain applying then removing the vinyl per item. I really am looking for a multiple use material.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

then you should check this out:

Glass Etching - Glass Etching Kits

but i don't think this will give the same smooth edges like vinyl stencil does.
and the complete gear it's not that cheap at all.
plus, from my experience in glass etching and for the reason presented in my previous post, i came to the conclusion that vinyl is tbe best choice, although i never tried the dura film stencils.)

(actually, i purchased some similar sheets from Circuit Bridge, but i never got to try it.)


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## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

cmyk said:


> then you should check this out:
> 
> Glass Etching - Glass Etching Kits
> 
> ...


Intrestingly enough, I woke up this morning with the idea in my head that I would like to try glass etching...and then you appear here providing a starting place for me!

I glanced at the site you linked, and they're talking about screen stencils. Do you use the vinyl stencil in the same way that you would use the screened stencil? I'm guessing you don't have to squeege with the vinyl stencil.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

deChez said:


> I glanced at the site you linked, and they're talking about screen stencils. Do you use the vinyl stencil in the same way that you would use the screened stencil? I'm guessing you don't have to squeege with the vinyl stencil.


no, i don't have to squeege the etching cream, i aplly it with a brush.
it is important to put a thick layer and be shure that there are no missed spots.
i'll tell you more if you're interested, but this video is more relevant.
i do my work almost exactly the same way this dude does(there are several videos in total): 

YouTube - Glass Etch - Step One


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## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

Excellent...thanks so much. You just saved me alot of time.

I have a small embroidery & gift boutique where I specialize in personalized gifts, and custom t-shirts & caps. I think this glass etching thing would be a great addition.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

i'm glad i could help you. 
(etched wine bottles are a top seller for me, both for corporate gifts and aniversaries, with wine box accesories: http://www.passionateforpresents.co.uk/hgredwinegiftbox.jpg )



(and, again, sory for the threadjacking)


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

I was just wondering, could you use this etching creams for wood or leather?


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

no, it doesn't work on wood or leather.
glass, mirrors, porcelain, marble, crystal and ceramic glazes only


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

many thanks for the information.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

you're welcome


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

CMYK,
How does weeding the Oracle 641/651 work for stencils ? 
I used some clear contact paper and while it worked okay once I got the cutting force figured out I had issues with the insides of the O's and e's, a's etc being lost. Hard to see to to weed. 

Thanks
Mark


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

well, the Oracal is ok for this kind of job, but this is not like weeding for a sign 

it requires more time and patience, and to increase the cutting force a little more than you think it's enough may be a good ideea.
i know what you're saying about loosing the letters, but you have to deal with it and work more carrefully.


some tips: wash the glass, it must be PERFECTLY clean and grease free.
if only a minuscule portion of the already minuscule stencil lifts, then all your work is ruined.
after apllying the stencil, press it down hardly with the plastic squegee and the thumb and wait 4-5 minutes before removing the transfer paper, i do so because i observed from experience that is better to do like this.

some of my designs had letters 3 millimeters high, that is 0.118 inches, and the thickness of the font was just a fraction of that.

so i had to manufacture myself a special weeding tool: i tied a pin to an old pen tip and i soaked the thread with liquid glue (SuperGlue), which becomes concrete hard in a few minutes. 

good luck and please let me know how it works for you!


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## deChez (Nov 10, 2007)

Since my last post on this, I've tried it with great success.

The Oracal works nicely. Before that arrived, I was anxious to try it so, I used some sticker paper that I had gotten in a sample pack. Well, that worked, too...and acutally weeded easier than the Oracal.


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

Hi CYMK, thanks for the tip of the needle, quite clever, simple but very effective.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

you're welcome!

de chez, i would go with the cheapest material, as long it gets the job done.
(did you ever try the etching liquid? the results are great)


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## Glen762 (Sep 10, 2007)

Hi my name is Glen and I am new to this site. I have worked with vinyl for many years making signs. I have used vinyl as a stencil many times on glass with an etching cream to etch, it works great. I have used different thicknesses of vinyl and as long as you make sure your stencil is adhered and all edges are sealed tight to the glass it works great for gifts on vases, wine bottels etc. Hope this Helps.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

If you want someting readily available and cheap we went to Walmart and got some contact paper. It cuts very easily and weeds like butter and sticks good to the glass.
At this cost I can fubar up and not feel like I am throwing my money away.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

deChez said:


> Since my last post on this, I've tried it with great success.
> 
> The Oracal works nicely. Before that arrived, I was anxious to try it so, I used some sticker paper that I had gotten in a sample pack. Well, that worked, too...and acutally weeded easier than the Oracal.


How are you keeping the vinly from sticking to the glass ?

Thanks


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

This sounds like something I am anxious to try. Unfortunately no one answered freebird1963 question. How does the vinyl come off after the etching is done? I hope someone answers this soon, because I want to try it today. (Oh yeah, I know...patience, patience, patience)

Thanks for any other advice on this.
Cyn


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## krol (Feb 15, 2009)

You just rinse the etching cream or liquid off with water with the vinyl still on the item. the vinyl is easy to take off since it isn't on the glass too long. just peel it off. you might need tweezer to grab the edge of small areas to peel.


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks for your answer. I went ahead and tried it and it worked great. Now another question....is there a texture etching cream and/or color? The etching in itself is kinda boring and bland. If so, do you know where I can get it? I just bought the etching cream from Hobby Lobby (craft store).


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

if you put the glass under hot water, the vinyl comes of very easilly


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## krol (Feb 15, 2009)

Try "Rub 'n Buff" near the frame section in the craft stores. it comes in gold, silver, white, black and several other colors. It comes in a small tube. A little goes a long way. After etching and rinsing and drying the glass, rub it over the the etched areas and a little beyond. let it dry, then rub off with a paper towel. It will stick to the etched areas but come right off the smooth glass. Silver is my favorite. It gives it a nice subtle effect, classy, just enough to make the etching stand out.


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## cmyk (Dec 3, 2007)

how resistant is this rub'n'buff to washing, wearing etc?
thanks!


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## krol (Feb 15, 2009)

Great if you make sure it completely dries and sets. I made that mistake. Etched two identical glasses< and once clean and dry, applied silver "Rub N Buff" with my finger tip to the etched are and beyond. Waited about an hour then rubbed off the excess silver. The "Rub N Buff" rubbed right off the smooth glass and stuck only to the rougher etched areas. The first glass I washed in the sink with regular dish detergent within the first 24 hours (not sure exactly how long because it was a while ago), and almost all the silver came off. The second glass sat on my windowsill for at least a week and has since been through the dishwasher and hand washing and looks great. I had given up on the stuff after my first washing failure. But it is an oil-based product, so it makes sense that it needs a drying/curing period.


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

Wow..sounds like what I am looking for. Think I will try to find it today. Thanks for the tip!

UPDATE: I just tried the silver and couldn't remember how long to leave it on. I wiped it a couple of minutes after applying. Wouldn't come off, so wiped off with water and all came off. Read your note and noted you kept it on for a while. What did you rub it off with? Just a cloth and no water? It really came off on the non-etched glass? I am going to try it again the "right" way


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## MancUK (Apr 7, 2009)

It still amazes me as to how versatile cutters can be. I'll have to give this a go too when I get my cutter at the end of this month.

If you live in the UK, here's a small kit you can buy:

Mulberry Design + Print | Sign Vinyl - Application Tape - Sign Making Accessories

And also, here's some instructions on how it works.

[media]http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/easyetchinstructionsmdp.pdf[/media]


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## krol (Feb 15, 2009)

Cynthia,
I let the Rub N Buff sit for about an hour on the glass. Then I rub firmly with a paper towel to remove the excess. Don't be afraid to give it a little elbow grease. It will stick to the etched/frosted areas but come off the smooth glass. Again, let the paint "cure" for several days before washing or it will come right off.
- Karen


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks Karen! I am not sure if I like the look though; mine looks almost painted on. Is that way it should? I would like it if it had some texture. Am I just wishing I had an engraving machine??  Does yours look "painted" on? I am anxious to try the gold too.
Cynthia


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