# Can you iron on heat transfers?



## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Hi, hi.

I'm totally new to this whole world of printing, pressing, etc. I wanted to make a few simple canvas tote bags that I designed and if it worked out well, maybe start to sell them. I'd like semi-pro looking results, at least. This has become way more than I expected!

I've been using my trial of Coreldraw x4 but can't afford to buy the whole thing. I saw x3 for $85.00 and thought that maybe it would be good to start there and upgrade?

Here's my dilema...I'm broke. I can't afford a heat press and am not sure about buying one if this doesn't turn into something. I don't have anywhere to rent one from right now either. I have no idea which paper to use if I have to use a household iron. 

I've been reading for days and hours about these things but since I don't have a clue to what I'm doing, I get lost and confused in the postings. I've read a ton of Lou's postings and visited his website. That answered some stuff but I'd also like multipule opinions too.

So, my questions are these:
* Can I get semi decent results with a home iron?
* Is there a specific paper I should use?
* I've got a HP Officejet w/Vivera (pigment) ink. Is this good? (Thought of doing a few shirts for my baby)
* Anything else I need to know?

TIA to anyone willing to help!!!

PS - Sorry if my spelling is way off. I'm really tired!!!


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

yes you can use home iron but not sure about the semi-pro looking results

HP Officejet w/Vivera yes it will work

jet pro soft stretch


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks David! 

I appreciate any help I can get. Although this is mostly a hobby right now, I'd like to try to turn it into something one day...soon.

Should I be using light or opaque paper?


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

light paper will look better


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

light paper is for light shirts, opaque is for dark shirts.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39007.html#post229668

Dear Faer, 

Click this link above. It has posts I've written recently about hand ironing. I started out hand ironing and made enough in profits to buy my brand new press, a Stahl's outright, no payments. It can be done, but handironing is very labor intense. But not impossible. The above link will tell you all. I cannot possibly write all that information again, you'll understand when you see it, Luv. Good luck to you in the future.

It is possible to hand iron with Ironall / Iron all paper. 

Sincerely,
Kelly


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks Kelly!

This is excatly what my question was. I needed to know if it were possible, before I spend any money. Ironall is better for this? I'll read your posts as soon as I get a chance. The little one's running all over. I hope if I have any questions, I may be able to as you? I could use a bit of guideance.

Thanks again David & Kelly!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

That's no problem, Faer. Read the other post when you get a chance. I think I may have purged my mind in that one. I haven't re-read it in a while, but once you read it, you can PM me after if you'd like, but pls read the posts first so we can talk on the same wavelength. Best wishes, and have a good night.


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks! I'm sure you'll hear from me later...I'm so glad I found this forum!!!!! I already know that I've saved myself from a ton of money and frustration.  Thank Goodness!


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## wildpat (Feb 5, 2008)

To save a ton more money try it out on a few old t-shirts first, start with some smaller transfers to get the feel of how much heat and pressure you have to use. Good Luck-You will do just fine


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

That's a great idea! The only problem is that I'm doing canvas tote bags, which I assume would be more difficult. I'll probaly do a few shirts to get a feel, then use one tote as a tester. Thanks, I really didn't ever think of that. Duh!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Canvas bags are a different substrate, that's for sure. Canvas bags hold alot of moisture. That seems to cause the biggest problem/failure for folks. They really need to be prepressed really well to dry them out.

Once you start along by hand, you'll want a press to save your aching back, arms, and to not spend 2 hours doing four totes. 

It's not impossible to get a decent product by hand, but it's kind of like sweeping the patio with a toothbrush. It can be done, but it's alot of work. Once we were getting into it for a few weeks, the hub was insisting on a press, he was the one doing the ironing part. It took me longer b/c I wanted the right press, had to research. We may be less driven than you are, we really wanted the press after doing it manually for a few months. You'll be fine.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

Kelly I see you talking lot about moisture in Canvas bags could they put them in oven at 150 for 10 min that would take out the Moisture and safe some time


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

That's a nice dry heat, for sure. 

As long as they are all canvas without vinyl or leather handles (or any meltable composition), I don't see why not.

Has anyone ever used a dryer to get the moisture out of 100% canvas totes? That would work, too, I suppose.

Great thinking, Mr. Scientist. Makes me want to order plain canvas totes.

Faer, You'll also need a mouse pad type of material or Tee Pad its (teepadit.com) to raise the image area up to you are not running into seams with the tip and edge of your iron.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

A dryer work to if that is all you have in it


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Wow! These are all great ideas!!!! The oven thing...genius! I'll try the dryer first to see what happens, I tend to burn anything I put in the oven. LOL!!! 

Kelly, read some of your posting last night. tons of info, it's great! I don't know how driven I am at this point...reason why I haven't started yet. I am eager to get started to see though.

My x4 trial is up in 5 days, so I'll have to wait and see about getting x3. Alas, the $85 one was for oem and I need full/retail. Found it for about $120 though. Meanwhile I keep getting new ideas. Don't think I want to do everything, so I'm thinking of more specialized areas. Maybe a non-profit? It's just going to be me doing it.

Do I need some sort of special cutter? How do I do it so that I don't have the entire page of paper on the bag?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hiya Faer,

If you are only cutting a box shape to trim the excess paper off, here is a link to a pic I posted on what I use to trim. (I love this trimmer, sharp, fast, slices right through JP and Ironall Dk.) I got it on Ebay for $9.95 + some shipping.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t40148-2.html#post238800

If you want to trim inside the design - if you have unprinted areas, you'll need to either use an xacto knife or equivalent, or buy a cutter/plotter machine that will do the cutting for you. Some folks are using the small cutters that scrapbookers use, for one color die cuts. But you have to have designs built around that.


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

The areas inside may be small enough to leave there. I already have a great x-acto knife, I'm crafty and have tons of stuff. I think I'll try a scrapbooking cutter...unless I find an x-acto like yours. It cuts really well? I just need a sharp cutter for heavier papers and such, right?

How close do I need to get on the image? Do I just cut the image out completely, or leave a bit of border?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

When it comes to light shirts, I leave a very small area outside of the image. Maybe this wide: -- . You could leave less. A cutter takes it to the design edges for you. 

When it comes to "dark shirts" I trim just inside the design, so none of the white unprinted paper shows.


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks! I can just leave a tiny border since it will be on light, natural canvas. Wasn't sure how this works.  

I really want to use the Port & Co. grocery totes...Are these good? Looked at the Western company's bags too. I'd like to do organic if I can find a cheap source. Lost the link to the last one...have to look it up again. Ugh.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

well, as far a sources and types of totes, Faer, you'll be out there before me. Lou does a good amount of totes, as well as greyhorsewoman. Lots more folks do them, but these are two members that deal heavily in totes (or has in Lou's case, grey is still doing them.) 

A few searches on tote recommendations and suppliers will yield alot of thread results. It's a common question when starting totes.

Number one thing, get totes without "sizing". Sizing will scorch under the heat press. Just remember "no sizing" and you will be on the right track. But I know this above question has been answered more than once here, so it's just a matter of a short dig.

Best wishes to you, I hope you do great!


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks again Kelly. I know that a lot of questions are repeated over and over and appreciate you having the patience to respond. Starting out is not the most exciting thing, nor easy to boot.

I'm looking up so much info that I get dizzy. Hopefully I can get my research narrowed and get going soon. And...hopefully, I don't pm you too much along the way. LOL!

But...before I go, can I just ask if you do infant/toddler shirts? If so, what have you found to be the best quality? I read that precious cargo is really cheap and falls apart. I'm trying to weed through the forum right now but would love to hear your experiences.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Dear Faer, 

You'll talking to someone who's been there. I read so much that stored stuff got pushed out of my head to make room for the new and I found myself re-looking up the threads to remember what I now forgot, haha.

No worries, we've all been there.

I do youth, not infant/toddler, but seeing the difference in quality from shirt to shirt, I always recommend signing up with a wholesaler to buy samples in your price range. A local one is best if you can get local pick up from them and avoid shipping fees. Otherwise, close is still good as your supplies can reach you the next day sometimes, saves you having to hold alot of stock in house.

Once you choose the ones in your range, print them as you would a customer order and wash according to the wash instructions, which is standard : cold water wash, low temp dryer or hang dry. See how they do if the customer follows the instructions. At this point, weed out any that don't meet your standards.

Next, literally abuse them in the wash. Wash in hot water and give them a nice full heat dryer for at least 25 minutes. If your customer disregards your wash instructions, you'll want to see what comes out of their washer.

From there, eliminate any that fail that test. You have your choice of cut and quality to choose from there. That's what I did. I have no qualms about the product I sell. It is not a sensitive shirt that needs babying - haha, no pun intended. But youth are my market, so longevity is not the main issue to the mother's I sell to. I focus on no fuss washing instructions to make their life easier. Also, color retention. They do not want kids who are crying their image can't be seen because it washed out before the kids outgrew it. The mom's are happy with this, and I promote these points in my marketing.

PM anytime. You're welcome to. Your totes will be easier, not alot of washing, but they should be washable especially if they are for kids (beach, drinks, chocolate). As a mom, you know what I'm talking about.


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## faeriegirl (Mar 14, 2008)

Okay, last one I promise!!!

I figured totes were easier, not much washing. I'm focusing on those darn grocery totes. We'll see. Also, kids & baby, I have two that are 11yrs apart. figured I'd strat with what I know and would look for myself. I have decent sized standards.  

How do people market their designs? I'll be reading up on this too. I want to stay online I think but am entertaining the idea of local shops and stuff. Gotta get my "Nordstrom smile" back on for that. I was just wondering how successful people are just being online or if they all have stores, carts, or some other physical locale.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Haha, Faer, I'm asking the same questions. Here's a thread for you:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-marketing/t34169.html#post198082

I haven't read it through, but it look like a hot thread. I may be chuck full of wonderful golden nuggets that apply to you. I did well via word of mouth locally, but I am in a small town, and not many folks supply my market.

You can get alot of work through your kids schools, preschools and activities.

Your is a loaded question, that is really personal to your location, your market and your ability to supply the demand once you find it. There's always fulfillment centers like cafepress, but spreadshirt apparantly does a better print. You upload your designs to the site, and they print and ship the shirts as they are ordered and you make a certain amount of money out of the selling price and they keep the rest. If you go this route, you get your designs and then promote the heck out of your 'store' using the ways in the above link.

Alot of folks here go that route. I hope you figure out a great marketing plan. That's something that I think is ongoing no matter how long you are in business as you always have to adapt to an ever changing market with fickle taste.


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## vladstoica_arh (Apr 9, 2008)

hi everybody!
i'm an absolute beginner at this and am only looking to print a few t-shirts for me and my band. this means i will not aquire a press. so i will have to use an IRON. i have an HP printer and i know it supports pigmented ink.
can anyone tell me what is the best setup (by which i mean printer, ink and paper) for this operation?
I'll take any help i can get. 

Thanks a lot!!  Cedric

PS : i've read some very nice things about the jetpro sofstretch but i've downloaded the instructions for it and it specifically said "NO IRON"  so that;s not an option for me then...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Cedric :welcome:

I just wrote a post this morning. I am giving you a link to this mornings post. Please read "the link" in this link first, so you understand how to heat press, and then substitute the ironing instructions where the heat press info is... Best regards, and good luck to ya!! Kelly

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/member-introductions/t45009.html#post267368


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## wakeupdiscover (Mar 19, 2008)

I went to my local fabric store and bought 4 yARDS of 60/40 cotton poly. much cheaper than buying a bunch of shirts or using old ones that are going to be a different variable in my pressing due to age. Does this sound like it will work as test material? thanks for the help, new lost in all the information here.


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## Leatherneck (Jan 18, 2008)

wakeupdiscover said:


> I went to my local fabric store and bought 4 yARDS of 60/40 cotton poly. much cheaper than buying a bunch of shirts or using old ones that are going to be a different variable in my pressing due to age. Does this sound like it will work as test material? thanks for the help, new lost in all the information here.


First of all welcome to the forum  And it is ok to be a bit overwhelmed by all the information found here I think it happens to everyone  it sure did me. As for the cotton / poly blend 60/40 being a good test material I honestly don't know. I have only ever used 50 / 50 blend and 100 % cotton shirts for my products.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

wakeupdiscover said:


> I went to my local fabric store and bought 4 yARDS of 60/40 cotton poly. much cheaper than buying a bunch of shirts or using old ones that are going to be a different variable in my pressing due to age. Does this sound like it will work as test material? thanks for the help, new lost in all the information here.


Hello... welcome to the forum. 

I strongly recommend you use the brand of shirt you will be selling to test your products... here's why:

A while ago, I did a very big test to find a great tee shirt to use with Ironall for lights. (Ironall has fading issues. I wanted to find a shirt that would not fade, but hold the color with Ironall. I tested approximately 5 different brands of 50/50 cotton/poly blends -- (Gildans, Hanes, Jerzees, FOTL, Anvil) - btw - I also tested their 100 cotton sisters to see which shirt held color the best. PS: We don't have these fading issues anymore now that Jetprosofstretch paper came on the scene, but this was back before JPSS.

My tests showed that each tee shirt reacted differently to the product. I used the same printer, paper, ink and press, the same laundry detergent and dryer... so the only variable was the shirt itself... and the results were all over the place... not one shirt had the same test result.

Based on that, I would recommend you test on the shirt you want to make your product with, so that you know what the finished product will look and act like in the wash...

Now I use JPSS, and even though there is no fading... there is still a difference in the end product depending upon which shirt I press on. For example, if I leave a window with JPSS, the window (polymer - part of the design with no ink that transfers to the shirt) is much heavier and much more noticable on a Hane's Beefy Tee than it is on a Gildan's Ultra Blend.

The shirt you press with makes as much of a difference, IMO, as the paper and ink you use.

Testing on yards of fabric is fine when you are "learning" to heat transfer, actually using the press... but to see how the image appears and washes, you should use the substrate (shirt) that you will be selling...

Good luck to ya! Kelly


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## Judiciarypag (Jun 1, 2008)

Is it possible to get better results with a makeshift heat press? Something like a pizza stone heated in an oven, then applied and weighted?

Jack


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## alfzampi (Dec 11, 2010)

Don't waste your time with a hand iron.You can't get into this business ,unless you have the money to get the right equipment.Wait until you have the capital.


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