# Q's: First Hat Run, Plastisol Transfers, Richardson Pro 212, HIX VH-250



## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Ok. First hat run.... be nice 
I've read as much as I could find, and watched a lot of videos, but obviously the real world is a learning curve 

Looking for any pointers you may have. THANK YOU

So I made my transfers. Using TRANS FRENCH T-75 Transfer Paper.
I printed them on the smoothest/shiniest side.
Used a 110 Screen, One hit, flashed just long enough to get to a point that the ink didn't transfer on touch

Q: 
Is there a specified temp range to flash/gel to?
I'm looking for a good starting point.
I understand it may vary by deposit. 
I am doing one color.
Visually, the deposit of ink on the paper is an amount that would be 100% opaque if screen printed on a shirt.
I over flashed a few sheets and ruined em. Would be nice to cut waste.

I have an older HIX VH-250 (Basically an older version of the B-250)
I set it to just under 9, which holds around 350 or a hair over.

I pressed for 35 seconds. 
That's what it took to get the paper to 325 immediately after lifting.
I checked this with an Infrared Thermometer.
But, I am not sure what it is actually getting to when pressed.
I would think this is pretty accurate, since it took that amount of time to get the paper reading up to 325, but I don't know.
Also, I know it's not the most accurate using these therms on white, and especially on white that is a bit reflective.

I'm not sure what pressure I have applied. There is no pressure meter of any kind, so I'm not sure.
Any pointers on judging pressure??
One thing I will note is that I can see the outline of the transfer paper on the hat after pressing. 
Too much pressure????

The 5 hats I pressed look 'ok' but I would like better.
The coverage is not 100% opaque.
I don't know if this has more to do with my transfer thickness (ink deposit) or pressure.
Also, my transfer detail is great, but my edges on the pressed hats are a bit funky... I'm thinking mainly due to the texture, but again, wondering about pressure??

Also, I am getting hat color coming off on the peeled transfer. 
Is this normal????? Or does that indicate too much temp or pressure?

I will do more testing tonight, but looking for any pointers based on this info.
I don't think I left anything out.

Please enlighten me 

Pics


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

From what I gather you are making your own plastisol transfers to heat press onto hats. If I'm wrong please correct me.

For a gel cure you need the ink to be tacky in feel, but not come off on your finger when you touch the ink. I have an infrared flash dryer from Ryonet. For mine I put it 3 inches above my transfers and let it sit for 10 seconds. They come out perfect every time. There is also a powder adhesive that you should put on your transfers after gel curing them. You can get that from Ryonet too.

Next, I see that you had issues over the seams. There are things called teflon pillows that are sold by several vendors on the left that will lift the material up so that when you apply pressure the seam goes beneath the surface rather than rising above the surface. I've never used them, but what I do is I cut up some thin mouse pad blanks and put these under the surface outlining the seams on both sides so that I'm pressing on an even surface.

Lastly, there are several types of transfer paper. Some are hot peel, some cold peel, some transfer most of the ink and some are split peel and only transfer some of the ink. But it is normal for there to be ink left on the paper after pressing. Anywhere from 70-95% should transfer off, again depending on the type of paper used.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Thanks. I have some neoprene around... I'll try that to pick up slack for the seam.

I am using paper that is supposed to be fine for hot or cold peel

I did these cold peel.

From my suppliers web site:

TRANS FRENCH T-75
A non-parchment white sheet that is the most heat stable transfer sheet available. Works well with multi-color designs with minimal paper shrinkage. Excellent for screen printing or lithography for hot or cold peel transfers. Priced by the 500 sheet ream.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Ok. Just got back from getting the Transfer Adhesive Powder.

So here's how I'll do it now:

1) Run the transfer paper through my conveyor, same as a shirt, to 320* (To take care of shrinkage)

2) Print my transfers from 110 mesh

3) Dust the transfer with the adhesive powder

4) Run through conveyor to heat to 240 (Let cool and test for good peel, adjust as necessary)

5) Heat press to garment - approximately 350* on the press for 10-15 seconds


Any other pointers from anyone before I go at it again tonight ???


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

Make sure you shake off the extra powder from your sheet before running it through the dryer. Sounds good so far. Let us know how it went. Hopefully this will fix everything.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Ok, so I just ran 2 dozen of them with the tweaks.

All acceptable! Most I am VERY happy with. 2 are a little off, but not bad at all, just a couple spots that are a little less deposit.

These hats sit kinda funny on the platen, and I think that's all it was on those two.

Very Very happy at this point. I would definitely step into orders of hundreds this way.

Good call on the shaking em off. I did, but Next time I will be even more aggressive. Had a couple hats come off the press with the adhesive filmed off the print.... luckily it scratched off, but I could see that ruining a hat. Definitely something to be more aggressive with next time.

Thanx!!!! They came out great! I'll post a pick of the final result tomorrow. WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY BETTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Good Job Table Syrup. Can't wait to see the pictures.


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

Awesome news! So glad to hear the problem is fixed now. Can't wait to see the pics.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Pics of a funky one. Couple light spots at edges of seams, and the bottom line is a bit funky (As are a couple minor spots on other spots).

I think pressure is my final minor adjustment to play with.

I think for a design like this, I'll try to go to a 80 something mesh and a thicker deposit, with less pressure on the press??? That should help with these issues?

Regardless..... this being the worst one, I think they are ok.

They really don't fit the curve of my platen well either though. 
That might have a little to do with it. 
It is also 'creasing' the hats.... Need to find some with a better fit
I'm gonna keep my eyes peeled for different platens for the future

Hard to tell in the pics - in comparison to the original attempt, but this is FAR more opaque.

The lightest spots at the seam are like the old print, and the rest is very opaque.

I still feel like I need a thicker coverage though.


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## drdoct (Jul 26, 2011)

Cool. Are you printing transfers and then pressing them because you don't have a cap pallet for your press? I know nothing about screen printing but am quickly going to learn because I just purchased a press.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Not only do I not have a hat platen, but I don't want to deal with the issues associated with screen printing direct to a cap.

Far as I can tell, much easier to heat press.

being that I have a screen press, I figure I may as well print my own transfers rather than subbing that out.

Learning curve to both, but huge benefits to heat press as well


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## Frienzy (Mar 13, 2012)

TableSyrup,
you are right about wanting more thicker layer of ink deposit on your transfers because it will affect not only opacity of the transfer but adhesion too.
To increase ink deposit you have two ways:
1) After gelling your print, print it one more time on top (but don't spray with adhesive powder after first print).
2) Build your stencil by extra coating emulsion after first coating is dried (can do it several times to reach extra thick stencil, but aware that your exposure times will be much longer by doing that).
Don't go lower than 110 mesh with transfers as it will affect your edge definition.
Hope this helps


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## lben (Jun 3, 2008)

This batch looks a whole lot better. I had to look really hard to see that seam. Are your caps 5 or 6 panel? One of them doesn't have the center seam and I can't remember off hand which one. I don't think you want lighter pressure. But a thicker stencil or a second layer of ink like suggested above would work. Great job though, I'm sure the average consumer wouldn't even notice those tiny flaws.


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## TableSyrup (Feb 8, 2012)

Nah, they are all 6 panel.
I know a 5 would be ideal for transfer, but 6 is what they got, so I'm making due. Seems like a 5 and 6 may fit/sit and look different at the peak... I'll have to check that.

One more Q

Is the screen supposed to clear the same on a Transfer Paper as it does with Garment (Like Cotton) ??????

I was having to put more pressure on in order to clear.

Maybe it was a funky screen. I didn't degrease it. Maybe that had something to do with it... or maybe I need to dehaze these bad boys....


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## selanac (Jan 8, 2007)

Frienzy, when you say: Don't go lower then 110 mesh, do you mean 109 (if they made that) and lower or do you mean, 110 and higher (like 156, 205 etc.)? 

I was going to ask the same question as Dr. Doct. You might only need a better Hat Platen, and save a bunch of steps, ink, emulsion, etc.

However, the nice thing is you open up a bunch of business for those in the Transfer Arena. Many people have Heat Presses and want transfers.


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## MrScreenPrint (Aug 30, 2006)

Very nice job on the hats. I have the same press you do.
I have yet to run an order of hats but I tried one hat
with a sample transfer i got from ace transfer. the transfer
adhered great but as you said about how the hats sit, I am
wondering if this particular press is only good for certain types
of hats? the transfer I pt on the hat kinda of bunched up. it
was not the same hat as you are using. mine was a lo profile type,
not sure what they are called. What is the type of hat you used for these hats you
pressed? if they work on your press they should work on mine.

thanks for any info you can help with. msp


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## MrScreenPrint (Aug 30, 2006)

can anyone tell me what type of hat this is in this thread?
the ones that say SLP softball? I have this same press and
I want to print the same type of hat since they seem to
work well on this press. thanks for any info...msp


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