# Stencil emulsion remover ER/80 Super concentrate



## monkeyisland90 (Dec 1, 2008)

So i've been using franmar products for removal of stencils and it was great but i'm trying this other brand from chemical consultants ER/80 super concentrate brand

on directions it says to dilute 1 part of er/80 with 10-30 parts of water. 

I'm not sure what that means... so i put 10 to 30% of water in the bottle and 70-90% of this solvent as the rest... i'm thinking that's not right Please let me know what i do with 2 pint of bottle that i'm using ... (like how much water and solvent i need to get this working right).. im sure adding higher concentrate won't hurt but i think main thing is to save much as possible while still getting the job done.


----------



## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

If I remember correctly I poured the content of the bottle in an empty 1 gallon milk container.


----------



## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

"10 to 30% of water in the bottle and 70-90%"

The opposite of that.


----------



## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

The previous poster is correct. I was not thinking on numbers, or probably I was not thinking at all , 
just posted what I did. However I think I picked that up from somewhere. Who knows.


----------



## monkeyisland90 (Dec 1, 2008)

midwaste said:


> "10 to 30% of water in the bottle and 70-90%"
> 
> The opposite of that.


ok i'm not extremely stupid but i'm still bit confused...

so if i can pretty much put 30% of concentrate and 70% shall be water?? in whatever container.....

putting the whole concentrae in gallon of water makes sense to since it mentioned it makes up to gallon of remover in the description... so in this case it would be like 10% concentrate and 90% water because the concentrate is in a small container already.


----------



## midwaste (Apr 8, 2008)

monkeyisland90 said:


> ok i'm not extremely stupid but i'm still bit confused...
> 
> so if i can pretty much put 30% of concentrate and 70% shall be water?? in whatever container.....
> 
> putting the whole concentrae in gallon of water makes sense to since it mentioned it makes up to gallon of remover in the description... so in this case it would be like 10% concentrate and 90% water because the concentrate is in a small container already.


Depending on how big the concentrate bottle is, you can mix it up in a gallon of water. Basically, 1 part of concentrate to 10-30 parts of water. So, if the bottle of concentrate is 12oz, you should add that to 120-360oz of water.


----------



## monkeyisland90 (Dec 1, 2008)

midwaste said:


> Depending on how big the concentrate bottle is, you can mix it up in a gallon of water. Basically, 1 part of concentrate to 10-30 parts of water. So, if the bottle of concentrate is 12oz, you should add that to 120-360oz of water.


thanks for the explanation... yeah i believe its 12 oz... so i'll add 120oz of water so it's stronger... thx


----------



## Ink Buddy (Sep 29, 2008)

I just bought some last week and put 20 fluid oz of water with 2 fluid oz of ER/80 - Super Concentrate in a spray bottle . This is a 10 to 1 ratio! It works great! A quart of it mixed with 2½ gallons of water would make about 2¾ gallons. It might work just as well at the 20 or 30 to one ratio. If it does, then it would make up to 8 gallons.


----------



## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm glad to read that you fellas have figured out the difference between parts and percentage.

If the concentrate works for you, you've saved money by not shipping water, but don't jump to the conclusion that stronger concentration of stencil remover necessarily works better.

The chemical function of stencil remover is to attack/break cross links that make the stencil insoluble in water.

The invisible problem is how to get the chemical to penetrate *all the way through* the "water insoluble" stencil to attack the cross links.

I doesn't help to use a muscular body builder, when you know 5 year old Emily can break spaghetti.

Water resistant stencils are naturally harder to remove because they resist any liquid that wants to penetrate it. 

If you're having reclaim trouble - consider comparing stencil remover concentrate, to ready-to-use stencil remover that has wetting agents in it to help penetrate. You can't add wetting agents to concentrates.

We discussed CCI ER/80 in http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t60134.html#post356873


----------



## Ink Buddy (Sep 29, 2008)

"How are you measuring?
Ulano Technical Product Manager - NYC"

I guess someone from Ulano would want you to buy Ulano and I don't have a probelm with that. Ulano makes very good products. I used their QX-1 for five years before I found ChromaBlue. ChromaBlue exposes faster and washes out faster and more complete. I would never have changed from QX-1, but River City Graphics sent me a free sample of ChromaBlue.

Anyway, back to the ER/80 - Super Concentate. I made a mistake when I said I mixed it 10 to 1. I mixed it 20 to 1. It works great on the ChromaBlue and I can make 5 gallons for $15 instead of $170 for Ulano. Also, I don't have to pay freight on all the extra water!

I have found that any emulsion washes out better when producing a screen if you get it wet (KEEP IT WET!) and let it soak for 30 seconds or so before washing out the areas you want removed. Same thing goes for the emulsion removers. If you spray both sides of the screen and wait for 30 seconds, there is almost no elbow grease required. The one thing you do not want to do is get an emulsion dissolved and let it dry out again on the screen. You might need a knife to reomve it if you do.


----------



## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Beware of the difference between keeping the stencil wet during development and wet during stencil removal. 

You need water to penetrate and dissolve the unexposed image area, BUT, wetting the stencil will dilute and form a barrier the stencil remover must break through. It may work, but you are diluting the chemical action.


----------



## Ink Buddy (Sep 29, 2008)

RichardGreaves said:


> Beware of the difference between keeping the stencil wet during development and wet during stencil removal.
> 
> You need water to penetrate and dissolve the unexposed image area, BUT, wetting the stencil will dilute and form a barrier the stencil remover must break through. It may work, but you are diluting the chemical action.


You are so correct! I should have said wet with water when developing and wet with stencil remover when reclaiming the screen. I always have better luck when I let either soak in a little before proceeding.


----------



## printing40years (Dec 27, 2008)

Buy an industrial squirt bottle from Home Depot for $2.00. Mark te fill line for the concentrate with a permant marker then fill it to the top with tap water. Mist it on both sides of the screen. Scrub it with a circular motion with a dedicated color coded scrub brush. Let it sit without ever drying and then power wash out. 2000 to 2500 psi is all you need. Dont damage the carefully woven mesh. Good luck and wear protective gloves, apron and goggles


----------

