# puckering



## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I am very new to this. I am unable to figure it out. I am embroidering a logo on moisture wicking material. It seams to pucker around the ball everytime. My design is a volleyball with school name around it. I have it sewing the volleyball first. I was using a light undersewing. It sews the ball in from right to left then it sews the lines in for seams. then I have it start in middle of school name and sew first letter then move back and forth from center to finish the name.I use solvey on top. I use the backing that is made for dry fit material,it is called soft and shear plus from Gunold. I also have glued the stabilizer on. I also have hooped it put it in the machine then layed a piece of backing under the hooped garmet. I just cant figure out how to keep it from puckering.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

Can you post a photo of it?

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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

Here is the puckering around ball.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

When you hooped it was it clamped taut? It needs to be taut be not over streched.

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## beanie357 (Mar 27, 2011)

That material is thin ish. Less stitch density, and heavier backing.


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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I sure thought I did not hoop it too tight. I laid it in the hoop then I finger tighten the nut after it was hooped. Wind shirts are so much easier.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

To me it looks like it wasnt tight enough. Hoop it without the solvy and see if you can move the material around with your finger, you should be able to tell if it is taut enough then. It should be like a drum.

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## chuckh (Mar 22, 2008)

Before I sewed any more of these, I would rework the kerning.
Too much space between letters, especially O and W


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## Flint54 (Oct 16, 2008)

Spanky,

I would suggest a couple of things, first change your stitch direction on the white to more of a 45 to the weave of the fabric. This will help in holding the fabric together and not pushing it apart. At the same time try to lessen the density of the white fill of the ball. 

Hoop your garment so you cannot get material to bunch when you slide your finger along the fabric, once you get the tensoin of the outer ring correct there is no need to tighten the nut any more, this just causes you to loose time. Once your tension is correct leave it for the remaining items.


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## richt74 (Feb 11, 2011)

Yes I would agree to change the angle of the white so it's not 90 degrees. Use your normal two pieces of your backing. I don't see why you would need to glue any stabiliser and no reason to place another piece under just before you embroider? I also wouldn't use any solvy. Keep a light density to the white volleyball although I would increase the underlay to a double zig zag or your equivalent. For the framing keep it tight but not so much that there is no give in it. And again would agree that you need to even out the spacing on the letters, they just don't look right as it is.


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

In my training they told us to never tighten the nut after it's hooped. If the hoop tension isn't correct, unhoop the garment, then tighten the screw and rehoop it. 

I'm undecided about the performance backing they're selling now. You might try three layers of 3.0 oz cutaway.

Third on the kerning of the letters.


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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I thank everyone for their response. I have tried it all. I get some good results but there is always just a little pucker. I will keep trying.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

Double the backing if you are still getting puckering. We use magnetic hoops from HoopMaster and they work great in situations like this.


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## beyondstitches (Nov 28, 2010)

binki said:


> Double the backing if you are still getting puckering. We use magnetic hoops from HoopMaster and they work great in situations like this.


Lower the stitch density in the ball, double the backing, and do not stretch the shirt.


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

ya, looks like a density problem. a fabric can take so many threads in one area. for less puckering use ballpoint needles, less threading in an area or digitize the logo center in to out like how you digitize hats.


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## ShirlandDesign (Nov 29, 2009)

Your actually sewing on the backing not the garment. I've sewn on a paper towel to show clients this. Try making the cutaway as tight as a drum head with the substrate lying naturally, use a contour-perpendicular underlay with a 25 pt. running stitch, and back your tensions off little, oh and slow your machine down just a bit. Hope fully the text sews after the ball. Just a thought.

p.s. if you ever hoop a Carhartt you kinda have to tighten the hoop after the fact or else you won't get the hoop on the damn things lol.


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## oldstunt (Mar 22, 2008)

My 2 cents check your thread tensions make sure your bobbin thread is not to tight, you want to see about 1/3 of the bobbin thread on the back side. I run the bobbin at about 25 to 30 and the main thread around 80 or 90. Also run your speed a bid slower on this type of fabric. Just make sure you don't get any looping in the design.


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## pioneerembroider (Jan 30, 2013)

Use 2 pieces of cut away backing. Then using a heat press, press it for about 5 seconds on heavy pressure 300 degrees. Puckering goes away


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## aimagedesign (Sep 2, 2009)

The stitch direction of the basketball should be 90%, to the grain of the fabric. so in this case sew left to right. Reduce the densities. Keep the tensions on the lighter side.

The top text sew center out... like you would do for a cap.

Sometimes when hooping a finer fabric we spray glue the backing.. just to give it some tack. That helps to prevent the fabric from slipping over the backing.

Make sure the foot is parallel the fabric.. not bent. So has the foot holds the fabric in place for the needle penetration it's also not also pushing the fabric in a direction.
Two pieces of cut away backing. And the Solvy.


The joys of performance fabrics!


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## DKgrafix (Aug 13, 2008)

Try this Sew Many Parts

It is made to keep the material more stable on performance shirts(new thin sport shirts).
I like to put one piece of that and one piece of 1.5oz cutaway


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## salty dog (Jul 26, 2012)

One thing that I have found that works for me is using a adhesive spray to glue the backing to the garment. This keeps the material from stretching when hooping.

Salty


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