# Gassing problem



## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

I have printed a couple different images and this seems be a problem for me and my setup. I am using an epson wf7010 printer and a 15x15 heatpress from pro world. When I print the image on to the sub paper it looks great, but then when I press I get what I guess is gassing. I have printed this and other designs trying to figure it out with no luck. Just to give you an idea of how I am printing I first heatpress the shirt for 10 seconds, I then allow it to cool and then apply the sub paper and cover, then heat press on 400 for 60 seconds. I have increased the pressure on my heatpress but no luck on fixing the problem. As you can see the black ink has gassed out into the orange. Please help!

Thanks in advance


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## softballover (Nov 21, 2010)

are you using tacky paper?


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

No I am not. Do you think that will help? If so are there any spray products I can buy from a local store like walmart or Joanns?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

You can find repositioning spray such as 3M in any craft store or big box stores like Walmart.


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## inkjetparts (Apr 2, 2016)

Do not use any type of spray with dye sublimation this will cause more issues. You need to lower your ink limit or find a good tacky paper.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

Ok, thank you


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

inkjetparts said:


> Do not use any type of spray with dye sublimation this will cause more issues. You need to lower your ink limit or find a good tacky paper.


I am new to printing, can you tell me what issues I may run into using tack spray? Also, how do I lower my ink limit? And any suggestions on a good tacky paper?


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

suthernkumfert said:


> Inam new to printing, can you tell what issues I may run into using tack spray? Also, how do I lower my ink limit? And any suggestions on a good tacky paper?


First - I do not believe tacky paper is available for desktop printers. Second to really control your ink you need a RIP which is used by wide format printers. Never heard of anyone with a desktop printer as RIPS are $$$. Last tacky spray can be nasty stuff but if you do it correctly and with a little experience will not be an issue. You have to make sure you keep the nozzles clean and shake well or you can get some drops instead of mist. 

The other option to try is to pre shrink the fabric. Fabric shrinks quite a bit under the heat thus when lift the press and the pressure is off the fabric will move in which causes ghosting issues as well.

It is just finding what works best for your processes.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

Signature Series said:


> suthernkumfert said:
> 
> 
> > Inam new to printing, can you tell what issues I may run into using tack spray? Also, how do I lower my ink limit? And any suggestions on a good tacky paper?
> ...



Thank you for the information. I guess I will try a spray tack to see what luck I have with that. Also how long should I heat the fabric to preshrunk it?


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## Dekzion (May 18, 2015)

That is a very open weave material! it looks more like wool.
you could try drying the print first by laying it on a hot base but it looks like it could be more than the quality of your print going on. at least if you take moisture out of the paper it shouldn't 'boil' off.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

Dekzion said:


> That is a very open weave material! it looks more like wool.
> you could try drying the print first by laying it on a hot base but it looks like it could be more than the quality of your print going on. at least if you take moisture out of the paper it shouldn't 'boil' off.


It is a gildan 4200 shirt. The print out of the printer looks great, but when I heatpress it is where the problem comes in. You mentioned heating the paper before I press. If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying place the printed paper under the press, should the ink side be facing up?, for a few seconds, how many seconds?, and then heatpress to the fabric right?

Thanks


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## Dekzion (May 18, 2015)

On slates especially I lay the print print side up on the press bed and then if the bed is cold I lower the heat plate down to about an inch off it and watch the print bend and buckle a bit as it dries. you don't want to get it hot just warm it to dry it. the reason I do this for slates is that you need to pre heat them to get the moisture out of them and considering that they are a chunk of rock it is amazing just how much water they hold!
If your print is damp, as soon as you put it on a warm surface it will start to emit steam which could take some colour with it. if you dry it it doesn't, and with slates leaves a better crisper finish.


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## LEO (Oct 10, 2006)

*THERMOTACK* is available in 24" wide rolls.
Easy to cut down to fit your printer.
I use SPRAY and THERMOTACK on mousepads and coasters which need to be flipped over to press. 
For all other poly Fabrics:
I have found PREPRESS and 385* F and 55 secs.. 
Med/heavy pressure.

LEO


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## skdave (Apr 11, 2008)

Try using craft paper under and over the cloth and transfer.


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## Signature Series (Jun 11, 2016)

LEO said:


> *THERMOTACK* is available in 24" wide rolls.
> Easy to cut down to fit your printer.
> I use SPRAY and THERMOTACK on mousepads and coasters which need to be flipped over to press.
> For all other poly Fabrics:
> ...


Not sure if this is accurate or not but I was told by a paper manufacture that the reason there is not tacky paper available for desktops is the tack will eventually goop up the sheet feeding mechanism. One would think that if there was not an issue of some kind that there would be tacky paper made in sheets but who knows.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

Dekzion said:


> On slates especially I lay the print print side up on the press bed and then if the bed is cold I lower the heat plate down to about an inch off it and watch the print bend and buckle a bit as it dries. you don't want to get it hot just warm it to dry it. the reason I do this for slates is that you need to pre heat them to get the moisture out of them and considering that they are a chunk of rock it is amazing just how much water they hold!
> If your print is damp, as soon as you put it on a warm surface it will start to emit steam which could take some colour with it. if you dry it it doesn't, and with slates leaves a better crisper finish.



Great, I will try this with my setup and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the tip.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

LEO said:


> *THERMOTACK* is available in 24" wide rolls.
> Easy to cut down to fit your printer.
> I use SPRAY and THERMOTACK on mousepads and coasters which need to be flipped over to press.
> For all other poly Fabrics:
> ...


I will try prepressing and let you know how it turns out.


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## suthernkumfert (Jun 29, 2010)

skdave said:


> Try using craft paper under and over the cloth and transfer.


I used regular printing paper under and over but I will try some craft paper as well. Thank you, I will let you know how it goes.


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## Steve Fuentes (Mar 30, 2016)

I'm not a dye sub printer, but I do manufacture it so I've been around the industry a little. I hear some talk about a tape you can use, a special heat tape. not for sure just thought I'd throw that out there.


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## mgparrish (Jul 9, 2005)

Signature Series said:


> Not sure if this is accurate or not but I was told by a paper manufacture that the reason there is not tacky paper available for desktops is the tack will eventually goop up the sheet feeding mechanism. One would think that if there was not an issue of some kind that there would be tacky paper made in sheets but who knows.


It can work on desktop models.

The roll paper feeders are essentially no different except the "scale" of the design, at least on Epson models. 

Even 13 inch printers like the P600 can handle that paper in rolls, but one would be hard pressed to find any tacky paper cut for 13 wide carriages.

These roll feeders and the paper paths on the smaller format printers are mechanically the same, I have a 4880 with a rear roll feeder, it is just like the other wider models of it's day, the 7880 and 9880, just not as wide.

The specific model 24 inch paper referred to by the OP you quoted there is tack paper for that model and readily available and it won't goop up the feed mechanism.

Beaver Thermo-Tack Roll Paper - DyeTrans.com

There was at one time another vendor for this type paper and they were selling cut sheets as well. It worked OK in a WF1100 I had at the time, with a rear feeder (not a rear roll feeder) but Beaver had a patent claim on the tacky paper business then and the company stopped selling it.

But I do agree that feeding from a paper tray bending around corners and bottom feeding etc could be an issue, but a model with a rear feeder is no problem.


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