# Fabric stretcher for heat press use?



## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

I've been experimenting with flex transfers and on some of the stretchier fabrics, I'm finding that it's not quite enough. The thinner lines will eventually crack. I think that by lightly stretching the fabric before I apply I can find a happy medium.

I remember hearing about using a fabric stretcher for this type of application but have been unable to locate anything for use with a heat press. I've seen a few for use for direct screenprinting but they don't look like they're suitable for transfer use.

Is anybody pre-stretching garments? How do you do it?


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## CoolTech (Feb 3, 2007)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> I've been experimenting with flex transfers and on some of the stretchier fabrics, I'm finding that it's not quite enough. The thinner lines will eventually crack. I think that by lightly stretching the fabric before I apply I can find a happy medium.
> 
> I remember hearing about using a fabric stretcher for this type of application but have been unable to locate anything for use with a heat press. I've seen a few for use for direct screenprinting but they don't look like they're suitable for transfer use.
> 
> Is anybody pre-stretching garments? How do you do it?


Haven't tried to strech material before pressing, but I would susspect that it would make the transfer appear badly when the garment is in it's "equilibrium" state.

It may make it hard to sell if it only looks right on larger people...


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## Jasonda (Aug 16, 2006)

Hmm.. interesting. This gives me an idea for a homemade stretching tool. Let me know if you want to hear my idea, I'll try to explain it.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Jasonda said:


> Hmm.. interesting. This gives me an idea for a homemade stretching tool. Let me know if you want to hear my idea, I'll try to explain it.


Fire away. I may have to go the homebuilt route.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

CoolTech said:


> It may make it hard to sell if it only looks right on larger people...


These shirts are specifically for some girls with big boobs. They hate wearing shirts that puckers or crack when they wear them. They will gladly pay extra for stuff that looks right when it's on *them*.


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## CoolTech (Feb 3, 2007)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> These shirts are specifically for some girls with big boobs. They hate wearing shirts that puckers or crack when they wear them. They will gladly pay extra for stuff that looks right when it's on *them*.


Then, by all means... stretch away!!!


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## Jasonda (Aug 16, 2006)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> Fire away. I may have to go the homebuilt route.


Ok, this is what I initially thought of. It sounds kind of ridiculous but it might work.

4 2x1" boards, as long as the shirt from top to bottom.

Drill a couple of holes in all of them (maybe 3?) for lightweight rope.

Clamp the boards on to the long edges of the shirt (2 on each side of the shirt) with some small clamps. Then thread rope through the drill holes and tie the ropes to weights. Maybe soda bottles full of water? That way you can control the "stretch" by removing some water. The ropes should not be long enough for the bottles to touch the floor.

The boards and bottles will hang off the edge of the heat press. Basically you would be using gravity to stretch the shirt. The boards and clamps will (hopefully) keep the shirt stretched evenly all the way across.

I'm sure you can think of something better, that's just what came to mind.


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## tcrowder (Apr 27, 2006)

Maybe you could use the wooden hoops used in quilting or needlepoint. I'm not sure what they are called. You may even be able to locate different shapes(squre,circle,ect.).


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## hammered (Apr 14, 2006)

A loom much like the ones used in embroidery might work. Youd just need to make sure you could get enough pressure on the transfer and shirt.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

No not crazy, I was thinking of something similar. Had to do a shirt tonight and I used a piece of cardboard and pinned the shirt to itself (made it smaller and then slipped it over the cardboard. It came out ok but the safety pins left some nasty stretch marks. A little steam and heat fixed that right up.

I'm really going to need to figure this out. I've got another small job coming up for a dozen vinyls. The shirts look SO much better if pressed when stretched!

Ooh... just got an idea. Got to write it down before I forget. I'll try to rig up a prototype tomorrow. Keep the ideas coming!


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

When screenprinting a t-shirt on a table, there are a couple of considerations: 1) The ink not going through onto the back, 2) The shirt not bunching (i.e. you want it nice and flat).

My solution has been to cut cardboard to fit - so if a shirt is 17.5" wide you might stretch it over a piece of cardboard 18" wide for example. In this case you'll want something that can withstand the heat, but it's pretty simple and effective.


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## taglesslabel (Mar 2, 2007)

Dear Jose

Regarding your mentioned, I understand that your transfer logo labels might be cracked after heat pressing on your fabric.
Your fabric might high stretchable like sportswear.
I think it sistuation depends on material of your heat transfer label.
Plastsol transfer label is normally not stretched with stretchier garments.
Ideal way is to select urethane-base heat transfer labels.
Urethane-based heat transfer label is ideal for swimwear and sprotswear.
Especially it is tox-free. So it will also be used for baby and children's wear also.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

Let me clarify:

1. I am using plastisol with a flex additive. It's not flexing as much as I would like. I *may* be asking too much from it, dunno. I know that when I pulled on it, the thinner lines cracked easily. Based on the samples I tested with, I expected more give.

2. I will run into this when using vinyl (which I do a lot of). Vinyl has no give to it. When applying to a stretchy shirt (like a bella ladie's v-neck) it will pucker the fabric when stretched.

In either case, the results are unacceptable. I either get a design that's torn or one that's holding on for dear life! 

I did a vinyl pressing last night and got the results I was after. I just need to find a way to accomplish this quickly and reliably. I'd rather pay for something that works but from the looks of it, I'm going to have to go with a home-built solution.


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## marc elliot (Feb 22, 2007)

I am looking for something similar for different reasons in dye sublimation. Cardboard works well but is very slow to insert and then remove. I am thinking about a highly polished stainless steel but worry about the hardness and also heat build up. I am very open to suggestions. I enjoy learning from the forum.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

marc elliot said:


> I am looking for something similar for different reasons in dye sublimation. Cardboard works well but is very slow to insert and then remove. I am thinking about a highly polished stainless steel but worry about the hardness and also heat build up. I am very open to suggestions. I enjoy learning from the forum.


Cardboard has so far proven to be the best approach. I don't like the edges catching and leaving bits of paper everywhere. I like your idea... I'm going to do some digging and see if I can find some heat resistant plastic. 

For sublimation you're going to want a pad of some sort (as will I now that I think about it). I've used the foam from source substrates. It doesn't get hot!

The only bummer is that I need one cutout for each size.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> Let me clarify:
> 
> 1. I am using plastisol with a flex additive. It's not flexing as much as I would like. I *may* be asking too much from it, dunno. I know that when I pulled on it, the thinner lines cracked easily. Based on the samples I tested with, I expected more give.
> 
> ...


A plasic mannaquin torso is very quick. Stetching fabric isnt going to do anything for vinyl application. I also think the plastisol flex transfers are just fine for 99% of the applications you will be involved with.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> A plasic mannaquin torso is very quick.


To make? To use? What kind of plastic do you use? (if that's what you meant). I think Lexan has some good heat resistance characteristics.



> tetching fabric isnt going to do anything for vinyl application. I also think the plastisol flex transfers are just fine for 99% of the applications you will be involved with.


Have you put some foil on a stretchy bella shirt? Any girl with a big chest is going to make that transfer look like it's holding on for dear life! It hasn't been an issue with regular vinyl for me because I've only put that on looser fitting stuff.

About the flex -- I now know why it cracked on me. They weren't flex! The printer screwed up the order and sent me non-flexible transfers. Duh.

I still think I want to pre-stretch those so the designs won't look distorted.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> To make? To use? What kind of plastic do you use? (if that's what you meant). I think Lexan has some good heat resistance characteristics.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When you stretch that bella top and press vinyl or foil etc its going to bunch up when the shirt snaps back in place and coming out of the wash n dry cycle its probably going to get worse. Most of the stock plastisol transfers we use stretch just fine on ladies gear. You cant stop a woman from buying something her body isnt made for or the wrong size. I see it happen at every event we attend. A H. Davidson tee on a large busted woman that is screenprinted is going to wear out eventually if its sized way small. Its a non issue for us because I can only suggest correct sizes and thats dangerous ground for any man. I have Kim who knows womens fashion do most of the sizing and even she gets blown away by some of the choices.

You can get away with the stretch Bella gear with lettering much better than solid clip art designs...lettering has those wonderful spaces in between except script. You could also use rhinestones or nail head designs...they will allow stretch.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> When you stretch that bella top and press vinyl or foil etc its going to bunch up when the shirt snaps back in place


Lol... I'm certainly not going to tell the ladies what they can and can't wear!  I can however do something about correctly fitted clothes. 

I'm not sure what you mean by 'snap back'. I stretch it out and press it (stretched out) so that even after a wash cycle it's still stretched underneath the vinyl. It never has a chance to come back.

I am only doing small designs (3"-4") and text. I still need to nail down the average shrinkage through the dryer and get a good stretch factor for my inserts.


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> When you stretch that bella top and press vinyl or foil etc its going to bunch up when the shirt snaps back in place


Nobody's minded once I tell them why it does that. In fact, they appreciate that I took the time to do it! I'm doing custom stuff for this application so I get face to face time to explain. I can understand somebody thinking it's defective while going through the rack.


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

they look best displayed on bodyforms (priced).

hang 1 of every size on a rack (for try on's), ...and make them as they buy.


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## marc elliot (Feb 22, 2007)

Thanks Jose,
Do you use the pad from Source Substrates as an insert? I did not see a foam pad on their web site. I really like the idea of a thin, smooth, heat resistant plastic. I'll search & post. Please post if you find one.
Thanks again


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## Moo Spot Prints (Jul 16, 2006)

marc elliot said:


> Thanks Jose,
> Do you use the pad from Source Substrates as an insert? I did not see a foam pad on their web site. I really like the idea of a thin, smooth, heat resistant plastic. I'll search & post. Please post if you find one.
> Thanks again


yup. I got it from Johnson plastics. It's not on the source substrates web site but their distributors have it. I think it was listed as 'sublimation foam kit' or something similar.


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## Rickster58 (May 3, 2008)

How about buying a discarded mannequin with big boobs. You could pull the shirt tight from the back and hit it with a heat gun or an iron.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Jose is talking about stretching the shirt before and during the press of heatpress vinyl. He is using stertchy form fitting tops and the vinyl doesnt stretch so it tends to bind. He stretches the shirt presses the vinyl while its stretched and then releases the stretch. The vinyl will bunch up as the shirt goes back to normal size but when the ladies wear the gear everything goes back to normal. It is one of the problems with heatpress vinyl.


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## mikelawry (Feb 25, 2008)

Moo Spot Prints said:


> I remember hearing about using a fabric stretcher for this type of application but have been unable to locate anything for use with a heat press. I've seen a few for use for direct screenprinting but they don't look like they're suitable for transfer use.
> ?


 
In response to the original question. I made a frame about 1/4 of an inch bigger then my platen, out of half cut pvc and rubber bands (rounded side facing inwards to avoid snag). You still have to center the shirt but after centering I squeezed the frame in place and it stretched the shirt. Add washers or remove washers to adjust the tension amounts. 

This lasted one weekend only. My wife found the frame in my closet and thought it was the beginning of a hydroponics closet setup and threw it out.


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## Pyroshouse (Mar 4, 2008)

I was thinking about similar issue this last weekend for football jersey lettering, the team I am working for wants drop shadow two color so I am double pressing had the problem of the collar pressing threw the letters. So I ran over to Lowes grabed a couple sheets of 1/8 inch masonite. I cutt the pieces to size then routered the edges with a 1/16 round over bit both ways to create a nice half round edge on all sides, to avoid snaging. Inserted in the shirts worked great. For your issue I was thinking make each one half size larger than normal insert stretching the shirt and go. We did the same thing with flying colors in the early ninties. But the masonite last for ever, is nice and smooth and most of all a 4x8 sheet only cost 10 bucks, and the router bit 12. Hope it helps just a long thought.

Joseph Fowler
Zplates.com


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Joeseph, I tink that is a great idea and should help a lot of people. .... JB


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