# What have I done? Help with 3d cap.



## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

3mm foam, density of .20mm, I capped the ends but alot of the thread is loose and as you can see alot of foam is poking out. This just isn't right, but where did I go wrong? SHould I make it a bit larger?

Can someone look at my .emb file and point me in the right direction?


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

If you'll attach it as a e1.5 version I'll take a look


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

Try this...


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

First, don't use black foam. Try to match the foam color to the top stitching or go a shade lighter. If you don't have silver foam use white. I don't run a center run underlay when using foam because I want the foam to not get matted down in the center. I do run an edge run underlay with a very short stitch length (1.0 mm) and tight cord gap .05 with min length of .4. But your density should be more than enough. I typically don't run my puffy designs quite that dense but it shouldn't hurt. You will need to flame the logo to get the foam to pull back. If you have a heat gun use that or a lighter. In this design the heat gun will be better for the center of the O and R. Just don't hold the heat gun in one spot too long. Definitely not too long on a performance hat or you'll melt the fabric.


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

myfinishingtouch said:


> First, don't use black foam. Try to match the foam color to the top stitching or go a shade lighter. If you don't have silver foam use white. I don't run a center run underlay when using foam because I want the foam to not get matted down in the center. I do run an edge run underlay with a very short stitch length (1.0 mm) and tight cord gap .05 with min length of .4. But your density should be more than enough. I typically don't run my puffy designs quite that dense but it shouldn't hurt. You will need to flame the logo to get the foam to pull back. If you have a heat gun use that or a lighter. In this design the heat gun will be better for the center of the O and R. Just don't hold the heat gun in one spot too long. Definitely not too long on a performance hat or you'll melt the fabric.


This was just a test cap. I wanted to use black so I could see how much stuck out. The order uses black cap with gray thread and grey cap with black thread, I'll use black and white foam.

So why are some of the stiches so loose?


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

I'm assuming you loosened the top thread tension some but perhaps you loosened it too much? You will always get some of the foam that comes through the stitches as you pull it off. That's why you apply heat to shrink up the foam bits that come through.


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## Alex Kutler (Jul 19, 2012)

@keljohnso 

Try the attached file. I have made some changes for you. Hope this will work better.


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

myfinishingtouch said:


> I'm assuming you loosened the top thread tension some but perhaps you loosened it too much? You will always get some of the foam that comes through the stitches as you pull it off. That's why you apply heat to shrink up the foam bits that come through.




I didn't loosen it at all. I sewed a flat on some shirts no problem, I just left everything the same. Maybe I'll try tightening it up some.


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

Alex Kutler said:


> @keljohnso
> 
> Try the attached file. I have made some changes for you. Hope this will work better.



What changes should I look for?


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

Thanks for the help guys!


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## patrioticflags (Sep 2, 2012)

myfinishingtouch said:


> I'm assuming you loosened the top thread tension some but perhaps you loosened it too much? You will always get some of the foam that comes through the stitches as you pull it off. That's why you apply heat to shrink up the foam bits that come through.


What do you use to apply the heat?


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

On non-performance hats I use a heat gun and have never had a problem. On performance hats I tried a heat gun and held it place just slightly too long once and melted the hat. Now I very carefully use a lighter and I fold the hat out of the way as much as possible. On this design with the "O" I'd be very nervous about heating the center on a performance hat.


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## nalob (Jun 23, 2011)

Doesn't look that bad. Either use a heat gun or I use a pointed tweezers n just push them in under the threads.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

@ keljohnso would it be possible to repost in version wilcom 2006 so i can have a look? Im getting the same results with my 3d puffy and would love to master it.

Thanks


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

We use 80/12 titanium needles for puff. It seems to cut the foam better. Follow up with a heat gun at high heat and match the foam to the color thread and it will look good.


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

philipfirth83 said:


> @ keljohnso would it be possible to repost in version wilcom 2006 so i can have a look? Im getting the same results with my 3d puffy and would love to master it.
> 
> Thanks


Hmm, I dont know if I can save it as that version.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

keljohnso said:


> Hmm, I dont know if I can save it as that version.


Can you save it as emb Version 8?


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## keljohnso (Dec 18, 2011)

1 file is my original, the other is with the changes Alex Kutler applied.

I have not tried that file yet.
​


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## inobu (Dec 29, 2010)

This is a great learning opportunity. 

ok, correct me where ever I am wrong

So, the machine is set up for a flat sew. Meaning that the stitch length is "X pts" (x is whatever the point value you set for the stitch length). We are adding 3mm of foam which technically adds 6 more millimeter of thread (3 up 3 down) to the stitch length. 

The 6mm value can be reduce based on the tautness applied to the stitch say -2mm. This means that we must get an extra 4mm of thread to complete a puff stitch. 

Where? the tension and presser foot. Easing up on the tension should allow the thread to float a little giving the slack needed for the stitch to puff over the foam. Raising the presser foot should prevent the foam from being fully compressed allowing it to rebound after the stitch is completed filling or pushing the extra thread upward. 

The foam leak occur where ever stitch uniformity is loss. 

*Contributors to - Stitch uniformity loss*

Hoop slack
Backing issues
Underlay or lack of
Fabric rebound
Excessive thread density
Needle/Sew speed
Size thresholds (Element verses Needle/thread)

Looking at the photo

It looks as if the thread is cross stitching and stacking which bounding the foam and causes it to leak. The needle is catching the foam as it rebounds pinching it in between the last stitch.

I would venture to say a speed reduction may help as well as a slight enlarging of the elements may help. 

The thread weight can also be a factor. 

I think increasing the size may balance things out. 

Inobu


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

keljohnso said:


> 1 file is my original, the other is with the changes Alex Kutler applied.
> 
> I have not tried that file yet.
> ​


Thanks for this Kelly.


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