# Graphtec CE5000, Roland GX-24, US Cutter LaserPoint: Contour Cutting (Print & Cut)



## Chani

First: My review of the US Cutter LaserPoint will need to wait until this weekend. I haven't been able to clear a spot for it yet, and I have a couple of jobs to do tomorrow and Friday for a client.

*What is Contour Cutting*

I've heard it asked many times what Contour Cutting is.

Contour Cutting is the process of cutting a contour, either around the perimeter of a printed graphic, or in a specific shape, whether rectangular, circular, or an arbitrary shape around a printed graphic.

Here are two examples of Print & Cut stickers that we did for packaging for one client of ours:



















And an Inkjet Transfer (JPSS):










The stickers were cut on a Roland GX-24, and the t-shirt transfer was cut on a Graphtec CE5000-60.

As you can see, you can cut all types of items with a plotter that has an optical eye that will read registration marks.

*Caution:* Not all plotters with "Optical Eyes" will read registration marks. Many of the less expesive models state that they have optical eyes, but they are solely for the purpose of reading the size of your media, and unless they specifically say that they will read "Registration Marks", they will NOT contour cut.

*Example:* I'm supposed to be comparing the US Cutter Copam 2500 with the Roland GX-24. While the Copam has an optical eye, it is for reading the size of your media ONLY, and is not capable of contour cutting, which is why it is not being included in this comparison.

*Setting Up Your Contour Cuts*

*Roland GX-24*

Setting up your contour Cuts for cutting is on a Roland GX-24 is done either in CutStudio, Illustrator, or CorelDRAW, but ultimately ends up in CutStudio.

*Illustrator or CorelDRAW*

When setting up your graphic in Illustrator or CorelDRAW, create your graphic, and then either a)user a part of your graphic as your cutting path, or b) create a new cutting path around (or even within) your graphic.

Save your graphic (without your cutting path) as a JPG or BMP, then rasterize it (SAVE A BACKUP FIRST!!!).

Then, using the export filter (sorry, I'm not sure how to access it in Illustrator. Maybe Josh or someone that uses Illustrator with their GX-24 can elaborate)(In CorelDRAW, you would run the CutStudio export macro.), export your graphic to CutStudio. If done properly, you will see your cutting path and a rectangle. The rectangle is the container where your rasterized graphic was in relation to your cutting path. (Unfortunately, and I've talked to Dana from Roland about this, the export filter does NOT include any raster information when you go to CutStudio.)

Now import your graphic (as a JPG or BMP that you saved earlier) into CutStudio. You will most likely need to resize it as it imports at a very low dpi and will look HUGE compared to your cutting path and page. Get the dimensions of your graphic from Illustrator or CorelDRAW.

Then align your bitmap with the container rectangle that was imported from Illy or Corel. Select the container rectangle and delete it. Your cutting paths should now be lined up with your graphic where you want to cut.

Now go to File -> Print & Cut

Set up your printer for the size of your paper, then click the button that says "Fit into shared area for cutting and printing", which will move your registration marks to their outermost bounds. Hit OK.

Select both your graphic and your cutting paths and move them so that they are completely within your registration marks.

You're now ready to print and cut.

*CutStudio*

If you don't have Illustrator or CorelDRAW, you can import a JPG or BMP into CutStudio to contour cut it. Size it as necessary.

If you want to cut along the borders of your graphic (like the outline of a person), right-click on your graphic and choose "Image Outline". Adjust your settings as necessary, and hit "OK.

If you don't want any of the cutting paths that were created, select your cutting paths and go to Objet -> Brek Polyline. Select any paths that you don't want (be sure not so accidentally select any that you DO want), and delete them. This is especially important if you have white in your design as it will create a path around those areas of your graphic.

If you want to create arbitrary cutting paths, use the design tools available to make whatever cutting paths you'd like.

File -> Cut & Print, and follow the directions listed above to set up your page size and registration marks and move your graphic and cutting paths.

*Graphtec CE5000 Series*

Setting up your contour cuts for cutting on a Graphtec CE5000 Series plotter is done either in ROBO Master Pro, the stand-alone program for cutting with the Graphtec CE5000 Series plotters, Illustrator, or CorelDRAW.

*Illustrator or CorelDRAW*

When setting up your graphic in Illustrator or CorelDRAW, create your graphic, and then either a)user a part of your graphic as your cutting path, or b) create a new cutting path around (or even within) your graphic.

Make sure your page is set up for the size of paper you will be printing.

Place your graphic lower on the page (if using portrait) or more to the left of the page (if using landscape).

In Illustrator, go to File -> Cutting Master 2 ->Registration Marks.

In CorelDRAW, go to the Application Launcher and select Registration Marks.

Adjust the settings as you'd like them, and hit OK. Your registration marks will now show up on your page.

Keep in mind that you need to leave space, not only for your margins, but also at the top (portrait) or right (landscape) of your page so that you leave room for the difference in space between your pinch rollers and your blade on your plotter. This can take a few tries to get right, and can be incredibly frustrating until you get the hang of it. 

You are now ready to print and cut.

For more complete instructions on how to Print & Cut with a Graphtec CE5000 Series plotter using either Illustrator or CorelDRAW, download this PDF:

http://www.cemagraphics.com/plottertests/ContourCuttingCuttingMaster.pdf

*ROBO Master Pro*

To set up for contour cutting in ROBO Master Pro, create your graphic in whatever graphics program you have. If you're working with a vector program, you can create your cutting paths, too.

Export your graphic (without cutting paths) as a raster file like a JPG or BMP. If you created cutting paths, export those as a DXF (without your graphic).

If you created cutting paths in your graphics program, in ROBO Master Pro, go to File -> Load DXF. Then set up your page and registration mark settings. Then import your image by going to Insert -> File. You then need to line your cutting path and your image up manually, which is kind of a pain as there's no live preview of where you're moving your path or image.

If you want ROBO Master Pro to create your cutting paths automatically, select and right-click on your graphic and select "Get Ouline". Adjust your settings or even edit your bitmap (in black and white), then press "Convert to Outline". The biggest difference between creating your cutting paths in ROBO Master Pro vs CutStudio is that you're given the option to create your paths as "Outer Frame Only", in which none of your inner elements (areas that show up as white in the bitmap editing window) are converted to paths...only the outline, whereas in CutStudio, it seems, you don't have that option. Press "Paste then Exit".

Set up your page size and registration mark settings and move your graphic to within your regisrtation marks, making sure that your graphic doesn't extend beyond your reg marks and no part of your graphic that will print is within the little cross-hatched areas of your page (in your reg marks).

You're now ready to print and cut.

*Printing*

Print as you normally would in any of these programs. If you're printing an inkjet transfer for light fabrics, what I would do in any of these programs is mirror your image in your design program, along with your cutting paths, then save.

Remember not to print your cutting paths.

*Cutting*

*Roland GX-24*

Load your printed paper into your plotter, making sure to keep your pinch rollers completely outside of your registration marks and on your printed media. Make sure you load it in the same orientation that you designed it in. 

Also, if you're cutting an inkjet transfer for lights (most papers), use a carrier sheet like Magic Mask or TTD Mask.

In CutStudio, under File -> Cutting Setup, get your media size from your plotter. This may not be 100% necessary, but I like to do it anyway...

Press the Cutting button and hit OK. Your machine will now search for your registration marks and then cut.

Done.

*Graphtec CE5000 Series*

*Illustrator or CorelDRAW*

Load your printed media into your plotter with the side that has the space to the TOP. If you're cutting most inkjet transfers, use a carrier sheet. You can place your pinch rollers either on your printed media or on your carrier, it doesn't matter.

In Illustrator, go to File -> Cutting Master 2 ->Cut/Plot.

In CorelDRAW, go to your Application Launcher and press Cut/Plot.

Make sure your cutting orientation is set up properly for your particular print (if portrait, make sure that you cut normally and for landscape, make sure your cuts are rotated.

Also, make sure your mirroring is set to normal, not mirrorred.

Go to your Layers/Colors tab and either select your cutting paths layer and deselect all others, or select your cutting path's color and deselect all others (I like to use No Fill for my cutting paths.)

Now go to your last tab and make sure "Use Registration Marks" checked.

Hit Send.

You will now have a little popup that tells you to align your blade to your first registration mark. Do that using the arrow keys on your plotter. Make sure your blade is positioned about mid-way on either line of your lower-right reg mark.

Go back to your computer and hit OK

Your machine will now attempt to read each of your reg marks and then cut.

Done.

*ROBO Master Pro*

In ROBO Master Pro, make sure your output setting are correct, then send to your cutter.

You will then need to go through the same proceedure as above with setting your blade above your first regisrtation mark, go back to your computer, and hit OK.

Again, it will attempt to find your registration marks, and then cut.

Done.


*Conclusions:*

Some people may have different methods than described above. If you use another method, please post it here. 

As far as setting up your graphic and cutting paths, I prefer to do things in CorelDRAW. Personal preference, and everyone has their own.

I really like the way I can work from CorelDRAW with our Graphtec, and I have a nice little system set up.

But...

I REALLY hate the way I and so many other people get regirstation mark read errors so often. This machine really takes finesse.

Another thing I like about contour cutting on the Graphtec is that you can maximize your printing area by using a carrier sheet and placing your pinch rollers on the carrier sheet.

What I really hate, tho, is the two-step process of sending your cuts to the plotter and then needing to position your blade over your first reg mark, and for this reason alone, I LOVE contour cutting with the Roland!

I had ONE read error with the Roland, and it was my mistake. I put the pinch rollers on the carrier sheet once, not realizing that they NEEDED to be on the printed sheet. Easy enough to fix.

Another thing...with the Graphtec, especially in the beginning until you're used to the way it works, I suggest importing your graphics into ROBO Master Pro and doing your cutting from there. You will know that your registration marks are where they need to be in order to not get read errors. It's a pain to use ROBO Master Pro if you want to use your own cutting paths, but it will save many headaches as you're actually trying to cut.

As far as software goes...I think it's a wash. I like some of the features of ROBO Master Pro (especially the way you automatically create cutting paths and bitmaps importing at the proper size), but I prefer almost everything else in CutStudio.

Overall, I think the Roland wins, hands-down, because of ease of cutting. Both of them take a little bit of work to get your graphics set up properly, and I do prefer the way I can use CorelDRAW, but having all of those reg mark read errors has really gotten to me.

If you plan on using a lot of contour cutting in your business, do yourself a favor and buy a GX-24. For Contour Cutting, this machine is a dream come true. 

I may need to re-write some of this once I review the LaserPoint.


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## out da box

Thanks. I kinda figured the Roland was the best machine for this app. 
I need to get one. 
Just need to print about 200 t-shirts and get em sold.


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## Girlzndollz

Chani, when time allows, please let us know how the Laser point does with the contour cutting. I am just interested in it's capabilities and limitations, I know it is not a Roland, but would reallyyyy like to know just what it is and isn't for $500. Thanks so much -- when you get time...


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## DAGuide

Nice detailed job on this comparison. I am sure it will help others in their decision making process.


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## COEDS

I know it helped make up my mind. I had been on the fence and was looking at several vinyl cutters. I read all I could about my choices. I chose a Roland GX24 because of the ease of operation with the trimming transfers. I'm still not a real fan of the cut studio software, but I continue to use it.


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## Chani

Cut Studio is fine for contour cutting, but several people have touted CadWorxLIVE. I still haven't had a chance to play with it, but I'm hopeful that it will make other jobs a whole lot easier (cut-by-color, etc...). 

Kelly, I just verified some information with Marcus, and I'll be continuing my tests this coming week. I would do it this weekend, but we have a large order to press this weekend, and my mom needs TWO of her computers reformatted.

More to come soon!


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## COEDS

Chani said:


> Cut Studio is fine for contour cutting, but several people have touted CadWorxLIVE. I still haven't had a chance to play with it, but I'm hopeful that it will make other jobs a whole lot easier (cut-by-color, etc...).
> 
> Kelly, I just verified some information with Marcus, and I'll be continuing my tests this coming week. I would do it this weekend, but we have a large order to press this weekend, and my mom needs TWO of her computers reformatted.
> 
> More to come soon!


I like cadworx live a whole lot. It is a great software, but I still need some other software for shows and festivals. I can't always get a signal to get to the web. Thanks Chani for all your hard work and honesty. ..... JB


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## Chani

Very true.

I wish there were a purchaseable (and downloadable) version of Cadworx for this very reason.


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## Girlzndollz

Thanks, Chani, and please, no rush... work first, play second.  Thanks so much, tho, you're a Dear!


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## theflowerboxx

Does anyone know if Flexi's contour cut would work without a contour cutter? The way I figure it, it should as long as you have the correct drivers for your machine.


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## plan b

David,
GCC cutters use sign pal wich is oem flexi for contour cut and I have to tell you it works very well.


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## theflowerboxx

Thanks Roger.


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## Soulwalker

Chani, have you had an opportunity to check out the LaserPoint Cutter yet?


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## Chani

I wanted to last week, but I got busy with jobs.

I plan on working with it starting hopefully today.


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## mrdavid

Chani let me know when you do I have been trying with no luck thanks


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## deenastee

after u do the laserpoint,i would love to see one of those gcc cutters in action to see how they compare.does anyone own one of these?


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## mikalopa

chani,
thanks for the info. its really helping me figure out what cutter to go with. im going to get a 24" cutter... now i need to decide what brand... ohhhh, the decisions! thanks for your help, it sounds like both graphtec and roland are good brands.


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## rjim

You talk about a carrier sheet. I am having trouble find out about them, where to get them or what I cam use. I want to cut transfer paper, but I can not get beyond that.

Any help??

Jim


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## shane

Chani said:


> Set up your printer for the size of your paper, then click the button that says "Fit into shared area for cutting and printing", which will move your registration marks to their outermost bounds. Hit OK.


hi Chani
i know it has been a long time since this post but i have just read it and i cant find the "Fit into shared area for cutting and printing" button on the cutstudio. where is it?


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## Key

shane said:


> hi Chani
> i know it has been a long time since this post but i have just read it and i cant find the "Fit into shared area for cutting and printing" button on the cutstudio. where is it?


 I posted a video of myself doing a contour cut with an Graphtec 5000 on Youtube. I plan on redoing the video when I get a chance but I did the video in like 5 mins. to show the people where I bought my vinyl cutter from on how to do a contour cut.


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## dcurtisroland

shane,
The "Fit to shared area" button is under File/Printing Setup. Make sure you have the latest version of CutStudio which is 1.28.
Hope this helps,
-Dana


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## Girlzndollz

Key said:


> I posted a video of myself doing a contour cut with an Graphtec 5000 on Youtube. I plan on redoing the video when I get a chance but I did the video in like 5 mins. to show the people where I bought my vinyl cutter from on how to do a contour cut.


 
Do you have a link to share it? Thanks.


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## Key

Girlzndollz said:


> Do you have a link to share it? Thanks.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxPbc5uBy9g[/media]


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## Girlzndollz

Thank you, Key. Do you have the text type link to it? Just wondering, not meaning to be a pain. 

For some reason, with my new puter, I can't click these youtube links anymore, they pop up like they are going to play and then it moves right back to TSF home page. ???

Must be some setting that is messed up. Anyway, I'd love to see the vid. Is there another way you can tell me where to find it? Thanks alot for posting it. I"m sure everyone else will be able to see it just fine. =)


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## Key

Girlzndollz said:


> Thank you, Key. Do you have the text type link to it? Just wondering, not meaning to be a pain.
> 
> For some reason, with my new puter, I can't click these youtube links anymore, they pop up like they are going to play and then it moves right back to TSF home page. ???
> 
> Must be some setting that is messed up. Anyway, I'd love to see the vid. Is there another way you can tell me where to find it? Thanks alot for posting it. I"m sure everyone else will be able to see it just fine. =)


Just go to Youtube.com and do search for Calikey50 and you should the video pop up. 
As soon as I get the time I'm going to redo the whole video.


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## shane

dcurtisroland said:


> shane,
> The "Fit to shared area" button is under File/Printing Setup. Make sure you have the latest version of CutStudio which is 1.28.
> Hope this helps,
> -Dana


hi Dana, thanks
i have version 1.04, can i get a version update?


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## dcurtisroland

shane said:


> hi Dana, thanks
> i have version 1.04, can i get a version update?


shane,
Follow this link:
http://www.rolanddga.com/rnet30/files/support/cutstudio.exe 

-Dana


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## vbucek

Hello Everyone. I'm as new as they come. I'm just starting out in the T-shirt biz and am purchasing a relatively-new heat press tomorrow. The seller also has an 18 month-old Roland GX-24 (without a stand) available for $900. Buuuut, there's a lightly used Graphtec CE-5000 60 available at the exact same price. After reading no less than 100 posts regarding this comparison, I'm just as torn over which one to buy, as I was before I started reading. 

Even though this is my very first post, based on the level of knowledge I've seen so far on this site, I'm sure I'll be a regular here in no time. 

Oh, and BIG UPS to Chani for such a comprehensive review of the different cutters. Thank you!


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## DTFuqua

If I knew then what I know now, I would have gotten the Roland. I have the Graphtec CE5000-60 and while I love it and it works flawlessly, there are more options from Roland that would just be easier to take advantage of if I had the Roland cutter.


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## ashamutt

DTFuqua said:


> If I knew then what I know now, I would have gotten the Roland. I have the Graphtec CE5000-60 and while I love it and it works flawlessly, there are more options from Roland that would just be easier to take advantage of if I had the Roland cutter.


 
Hey Terry,

What specific features are you referring to?
Can you make a short list?


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## DTFuqua

the rolad software and rolands R-Ware for the rhinestones mostly


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## Chani

Again, it depends on what you plan on doing with your plotter.

If you plan mostly on cutting vinyl, I have to say that the software that comes with the Graphtec makes it soooo easy for multiple-color designs. So...if you're planning on working mostly with vinyl, buy the Graphtec.

If you plan on working mostly with digital transfers and contour cutting them, there is no better plotter for this than the Roland. It's far more accurate in its contour cuts than the Graphtec, and it's far less finicky than the Graphec in finding your registration marks.

AND...I learned a new trick with the Roland since writing this review:

I said in my review that you had to place your backer at the very front and left edge of your transfer so that it would find the first registration mark...I don't remember seeing this in the manual, but what you can do is before sending your design to your Roland, you can use the jog feature to place your blade over your first registration mark and when you send, it will start trying to find your marks at that point which allows you to find your reg marks immediately no matter where you place your transfer on your backer.

I use that all the time now. 

Speaking or R-WearStudio...WILL it cut the circles on the GX-24, or do you still need one of the engravers?


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## andywt

The gx-24 cuts the circles no problem at all.Works hand in hand with the r-wear software.


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## Artman

Chani,

I've been glued to a monitor the last few nights trying to come to a decision for our first vinyl cutter (Is there a max dosage for Visine?). Your posts have been invaluable! Thanks so much for all the hard work and for posting your findings.

We still aren't decided but your posts have us leaning toward the GX-24 as we'll be using it mainly for contour cutting.

Many (!!!) thanks,

Art


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## T Shirt Designs

Hey there, I was just reading your thread on GX24 or Graphtec. If I want to make rhinestone templates which way should I lean??? And what software would I use for rhinestones template? I have Corel Draw X3 is there a plug in for that?


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## Girlzndollz

T Shirt Designs said:


> Hey there, I was just reading your thread on GX24 or Graphtec. If I want to make rhinestone templates which way should I lean??? And what software would I use for rhinestones template? I have Corel Draw X3 is there a plug in for that?


Here's a great, great thread on rhinestones. Covers various machines and methods for making rhinestone templates. Should help you get along. Also, the rhinestone section has alot of threads on using Corel with template making. Here you go, hope it helps! 


http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t95228.html


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## DTFuqua

I have a graphtec and Corel X4 and do anything I want to with rhinestones. There is a program, ACS studio I think, that makes things a lot easier and I look towards purchasing that too someday after things change in my life. There are others but for the money, I believe ACS is the best value when concentrating on rhinestones. Untill then though, I love my graphtec and with a little (sometimes a lot) extra effort and corel draw X4, I can do just about anything the high dollar programs can as far as creating the templates with a vinyl cutter.


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## brianrudie

Hi , 
I have just bought a gx24 and i am having serious issues with the contour cut using illustrator cut studio on a mac ( osx 10.5.8 ), in the preview all of the cut lines are showing as fine , but when I send it to the roland all is cutting out to pin point accuracy except the top line of my ganged up designs ( its a left chest print approx 7cm x 7cm ) , as far as i can see my design is within the registration marks so what could I be doing wrong?


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## brianrudie

update,

Just found out from roland I needed to set it from manual start to auto start and set the registration marks to the smaller default size.


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## josephfrancis

The Graphtec CE5000 will come in handy if you decide to make stickers using a converted Solvent Printer with no print and cut feature and you need a cutter for contour cutting. Just read the brochures of the GX24 and the Graphtec and see which machines mention perfect for contour cutting for solvent prints.

Hope this helps.

Joe


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## ashamutt

josephfrancis said:


> The Graphtec CE5000 will come in handy if you decide to make stickers using a converted Solvent Printer with no print and cut feature and you need a cutter for contour cutting. Just read the brochures of the GX24 and the Graphtec and see which machines mention perfect for contour cutting for solvent prints.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Joe


 
I tried to send you a PM so as to not bring this thread off topic, but you have your PM's turned to "not accepting PM's"....
So, I will have to ask you here.

I know what a solvent printer is, but what is a "converted" Solvent Printer. 
I am guessing it is a regular printer that has been converted somehow? (I know, duh)

I searched Google and this is the first thing that came up:
http://solventprinterconversion.com/?gclid=CO3k2eq556UCFYGW7QodSkui0w

Is this what you are talking about??
Do you have one?
If so, do you like it?
Is it much trouble?
any tips?

(I LOVE my Graphtec and do "pigment ink" print and cut, but would love to be able to use eco-solvent ink without having to invest 1000's of dollars)


Mrs. B


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## josephfrancis

Hello a converted printer for solvent printing is a Roland or any other larger format machine that was originally setup for waterbased pigment ink. The machines I am talking about use DX2 print heads. The print heads for these machines are less than $200 each compared to a $1000. Only draw back is they are a little slow in printing but I can put up with that with the $6000 plus of money I have saved


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## stix

Does anyone have a source or instructions to convert a waterbased printer besides solventconversion dot com


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## Fidel

Could someone please guide me to where I can find info on "hacking" the contour cut size for CE-5000-40 (Robo Pro S)? I've read about it here on t-sf, but can't find it.
The cutter cuts awesome, but I really hate throwing away so much of my Jet Opaque A3...


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## DTFuqua

I
believe the best your gonna get is to put the alignment marks as close to the edge of your transfer paper as you can and get some kind of backer to extend the edges for the rollers on the plotter to grab onto and move it through the machine. That way, you don't waste as much of the transfer as you do if you have the alingment marks far enough away from the outside edge to leave room for the plotter. drive system to work on.


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## Fidel

I tried that yesterday and somehow the plotter found out I was pwning it and still wouldn't cut 
Does the backer have to be white? I used a piece of white A3 paper.
Also, I need a quick way because taping it every time is a big hassle.


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## rjim

The only backer I could find is a Cricket cutting mat about 14 x 26. It come with a sticky surface, however over time I've had to use a sticky spray (that we use for embroidery). I would like to find a mat a little larger, but it works for now.


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## swannn32

All the little home crafting cutters have backer sheets that come with them (Craft Robo, Craft Robo Pro, etc.) so maybe you could get a replacement one of those. 

Or try and make your own backer sheet ... Get a pc. of that hard clear plastic that people use to cut their own stencils with at the craft store and spray it with some temporary sticky stuff (Krylon has a good one at Michael's that I've used before) and there ya go.


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## swannn32

I guess it would need to be white though for the optical eye to see it.


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## DTFuqua

The optical sensor in the plotter cutting head doesn't need to see the backer board. As long as the alignment marks are in the correct position for it to fit with where it expects the contour cut to be made. The rollers that put pressure on the drive rod to make it grip the backer have sensors attached to them to get the width of your substraights working area correct. There is an optican on the in-take side under the area where the materials to see if there is anything in the machine to be cut but you can put a white piece of tape or vinyl over this to fool it.


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## Fidel

Great, thanks for the info everyone, I'll play around with it some more.


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## Usman1984

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

For sale

Ebay Item No: 170817134790


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## easyray29

Can you list for GCC Expert 24 Lx and AI CS5 (Print and Cut)?


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## vadan

This is a fantastic guide. It's pretty crazy how after 4 years new 5000-60 users are still having problems! I've spent hours today trying to practise contour cuts, read atleast a dozen guides on the forums, watched several videos... done everything in the checklist!

I'm using illustrator cs6, A4 design, used 4 marks and let cutting master place them (didn't convert custom box), no carrier = only found 2 marks, the 3rd seems to check way off. Tried with carrier = same thing.

Design and media orientation also seem to be okay.

Then, done exactly the same in robo master pro = exactly same thing!

It's driving me absolutely up the wall now, 1 of the key reasons I upgraded to this machine is so I can cut SRA2 size card for folders and packaging, shocking to say, my previous machine, the silhouette was a piece of cake at contours, I often do laser transfers and it was so easy, it even cut an A5 folder template easily!

Robo master pro seems overly basic, silhouette studio looks to out-perform it! Graphtec should create a silhouette studio replacement of robo master pro!!!

Typically, I will be cutting with a carrier sheet.

Anyone have any new suggestions, tips that can help me get on my way?

Thanks


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## DTFuqua

Have you tried something like corel draw and the cutting master plug-in? I don't do contour cuts but I lovr my graphtec.


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## vadan

Terry, I don't use Corel so it's alien to me but I'm not sure it'd make a difference. Chances are I'm not doing something right in the setup, just not seeing what! Lol brain ache today.


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## Fidel

What problems are you having?

In AI 5:
I just place my design leaving about 2cm on each side
Go to file - cutting master - create reg. marks (I use the ones pointing out, spaced 15cm from each other, spaced .5cm from artwork)
Print
Place in the Graphtec and aling first mark
In AI in layers I choose the layer to be cut (I make contour paths beforehand)
Go to cutting master - cut/plot
Send

Took me about a day to figure it out and has been working flawlessly since then.


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## vadan

Paul it doesn't find reg mark 3-4. Where it's looking is no where near. 

I'll try what you mentioned with the inverted reg marks, out of curiosity whats the reason for using those? It seems like a awful lot of waste of material, especially for long runs, I don't do many laser transfer 1 offs. So I'd need the reg marks as far out as possible.

Thanks, I'll update on how I get on.


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## Fidel

That's odd. How long is the sheet you're working with?


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## OLO

Thanks. I'm looking to buy one i next couple of days so this thread was really helpful.

Send from my Samsung Galaxy SII


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## ianshaw

I had question that maybe you all could help me with. We recently got into doing vinyl plotting with our screen printing business, and we just started getting into doing sticker decals as well. We have a Graphtec plotter and roland versart 55in wide format printer. We have a client that has ordered 900 stickers. Here is my one of my many questions. Is it possible to load an entire "roll" as opposed to a sheet of media into the plotter with out it having to unravel the entire thing to pick up the last registration mark at the top? if so, how? if not, what are some work arounds people have found successful? thank you for your time and feedback.


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