# Epson 1400 Help!!!



## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi guys, this is my first post here. I am new to the screen printing community and I have a problem. I read several posts recommending the Epson 1400 so i purchased one. Now the problem is that I am using it to print my positive image for screen burning and the image seems to light and I don't get a good UV block which is apperant when I go to washout the design. I have used transperancys that were purchased at a Office Depot and my screens work great. 

My question is, What do i need to do to get a jet black finish on my positive. i am printing on 3M transperancys. Is this printer not made for this(no transperancy settings)? do i need to return it? am i using the wrong ink or media? or can someone give me some insight on the settings I need? 

your help is greatly appreciated - Zack


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## Fuzz (May 7, 2007)

From what ive read people say you need to select " black only" and have it setup to print on the highest quality photo print possible.


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## terryhayward (Jul 4, 2008)

zack68ss said:


> Hi guys, this is my first post here. I am new to the screen printing community and I have a problem. I read several posts recommending the Epson 1400 so i purchased one. Now the problem is that I am using it to print my positive image for screen burning and the image seems to light and I don't get a good UV block which is apperant when I go to washout the design. I have used transperancys that were purchased at a Office Depot and my screens work great.
> 
> My question is, What do i need to do to get a jet black finish on my positive. i am printing on 3M transperancys. Is this printer not made for this(no transperancy settings)? do i need to return it? am i using the wrong ink or media? or can someone give me some insight on the settings I need?
> 
> your help is greatly appreciated - Zack


Hi, I have epson pro 7000 and had the same problem with density. The 7000 driver had very few options for control over printing. I down loaded the 7600 driver which has lots of additional settings IE COLOUR DENSITY you can stipulate for an extra between 0% - %100 extra ink during printing, i go for extra 18% and comes out good. Also found that printing in RGB BLACK helped too.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

Terry,
will the driver for the 7600 work for my 1400? and what media do you print on?

Fuzz,
by black only are you meaning Greyscale? my printer setting will allow me to print in this mode. 


also, what paper or media selection do i need. I noticed the "photo matte" did smooth out the print some, also under advanced settings, it lets me adjust the brightness and contrast as well as CMYK colors. do i need to adjust these?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

Office Depot transparencies for school type overhead projectors are not designed for OPAQUE images, because the lenses used can make a transparent inkjet, laser or marker image opaque. You already found out they didn't work well for you. 

You need a screen printing software RIP (Raster Image Processor - that converts vector images to raster images for printing), to increase the deposit of transparent black dye ink so it will block/absorb UV-A energy from your screen making light source. 

You will need a Postscript emulator which is included in screen printing RIPs or open source programs like Ghostscript to translate Postscript output into the Epson printer language.

There are 3 major screen printing RIPs that support the Epson 1400

AccuRIP
PowerRIP
FastRIP

Search this forum for any of those key words.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

RichardGreaves said:


> Office Depot transparencies for school type overhead projectors are not designed for OPAQUE images, because the lenses used can make a transparent inkjet, laser or marker image opaque. You already found out they didn't work well for you.
> 
> You need a screen printing software RIP (Raster Image Processor - that converts vector images to raster images for printing), to increase the deposit of transparent black dye ink so it will block/absorb UV-A energy from your screen making light source.
> 
> ...


Richard I just downloaded the free trial of AccuRip but it looks to be about $500.00 (as far as you know this printer and software combo will work for screen printing positives right?) 
If i can make it work, I guess i will have to fork over the Benjamins


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

zack68ss said:


> Richard I just downloaded the free trial of AccuRip but it looks to be about $500.00


Guaranteed professional results will cost $495.

You can use it FREE for 14 days - there is not watermark to spoil your image or USB dongle to make the software work. In less than 30 minutes you can be printing 3.0+ UV density positives you can make screens with.



zack68ss said:


> (as far as you know this printer and software combo will work for screen printing positives right?)


 AccuRIP supports the Epson 1400 Dye Inkjet Printer.
Software For Screen Printers - Rip Software

AccuRIP also has an "All Black" system that uses 6 black cartridges that is distributed exclusively by Ryonet Corp.
Epson 1400 BlackMAX Ink Package

Ryonet calls it BLACKMAX but inside AccuRIP it's called AllBlack.


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## terryhayward (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi again, i was told that i needed a RIP, i did try one but it made little difference, i used 3M Transparencys (Product code CG3420) with no problems. As for the driver i dont know if mine will work on your printer, if you go to Epson and look for your printer then try the next model up you can install any driver without having it working then delete it if it wont work. I use quark and find that if i print in cmyk the density is crap this is were i think you need an expensive rip. I found that if i changed my colours to RGB black it was more dense. I know this is not very proffesional but i am just starting out and could not afford an expensive RIP it works fine for me, have a look on ebay and search this number 160204083677 this is one of my items that i silk screen printed using films produced as i have explained above. As for grey scale does this not appear light black and washed out. Were are you based send me your number through ebay by contact seller on the item number above i may be able to call you.
terry
PS i have just downloaded the 1400 driver it has the same setings as the 7000 driver virtualy none try the next driver up for your style of printer
Also change to output RGB in your publishing programme not printer settings ie option were you can choose CMYK, RGB, EUROSCALE theres loads of settings


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## TshirtStan (May 4, 2008)

Ok, I was new myself and had the same issues. Make sure that your graphic is at least 300DPI, use the coated transparencies from screen printing suppliers. Also, I double print all of my trans to ensure they are dark enough. The color just should be set to highest output...no necessarily greyscale. I did all these above and I don't have those issues anymore. Hope this helps...you honestly don't need the RIP software. I don't use it and have had great results.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

Richard, can you elaborate on "professional" what all does this software provide as far as screen printing?
Thanks-
Zack


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

zack68ss said:


> Richard, can you elaborate on "professional" what all does this software provide as far as screen printing?


Professional means guaranteed results. You hire a professional with training from a law school, medical school (diplomas on the wall) because then you know they have been trained - and you may be able to judge quality from the source - like a race horse.

A Raster Image Processor converts vector images (that can be scaled) in a graphics program into bitmap images that can be produced on a monitor, printer or plotter. This is not critical. The higher the resolution you use in a bitmap program like Photoshop and the resolution you use on your output device,(monitor 72 pixels per inch [ppi], laser 600 dots per inch, inkjet printers 720 or 1440 dpi, imagesetter 2400 dpi). The same image from a vector program like CorelDRAW or Illustrator can be scaled from 6 inches to 60 inches at print time and the resolution at 60 inches is determined by the printer, not the file.

A bitmap image will pixelate as you enlarge it, and the edges will get ragged as it is enlarged.

There are lots of people that have other techniques to produce positives that 'work' and don't cost US$495. Great. Most are very willing to give advice - just like me. That would be another reason to checkout who is providing the advice. If you don't want to spend the cash, I understand your dilemma. 

If you can install a printer driver, you can achieve 3.0+ UV opacity when you use AccuRIP or PowerRIP and they will increase ink deposit and have been calibrated so the dot size or line thickness is just what you asked for in your program settings.

I have a UV densitometer and would be happy to measure anyone's positive. 

Richard Greaves
110 3rd Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11217

Include your email address and what your printer and programs settings were. I'm very interested in those 3M transparencies.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

Richard- excellent info sir. i am impressed with your knowledge base. as soon as i get a chance to print using the AccuRip software i will post the results. i am out of the shop 4 the holiday,but should be back tonight.

Like I said i am a newcomer to this art so i need all the info i can get. everyones info has been very helpful.
Thanks-
Zack


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## n.signia (Nov 21, 2007)

Zack,

when you go to print, select *setup*, then *preferences*, select *best quality*, also select *ultra premium glossy photo paper*.

this will give you a very opaque image without rip software.


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## madaradio (Nov 12, 2007)

RichardGreaves said:


> You need a screen printing software RIP (Raster Image Processor - that converts vector images to raster images for printing), to increase the deposit of transparent black dye ink so it will block/absorb UV-A energy from your screen making light source.
> 
> You will need a Postscript emulator which is included in screen printing RIPs or open source programs like Ghostscript to translate Postscript output into the Epson printer language.


question for you,

will Ghostscript, being a RIP, produce high density blacks? Or is it just used for halftones?

I just bought a 1400 and want to know if I'm going to need to drop $500 on a rip. I know that they are the best, but I want to see all my options first you know?

thanks.


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## totalstitch (Apr 8, 2007)

I have the 1400 with accurip, I use waterproof films from Silk Screen Supplies and it works great for me. When you set up your trial for accurip set the droplet size to 3 and it will give you a nice dark print.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

madaradio said:


> will Ghostscript, being a RIP, produce high density blacks?


Ghostscript has no ability to increase the ink deposit in Epson printers.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

I'm finally back in town and will be trying all the settings you have given me with AccuRip and without, the materials i'm using, and the end result. i will post later.


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

I use the waterproof film from Ryonet with my Epson C88 set to print black only. I get dark opaque prints every time....no RIPS....no Ghostscript / Postscript. However, we are not doing any halftone designs at this point.

I just got a 1400 printer and will see how the dye based ink works with the waterproof film.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

ImageIt said:


> Wanna bet???


No, but I am very interested in solutions other than RIPs, because it adds another step the already time consuming process of screen printing. Every example of output from Ghostscript I have been sent to measure, has been at the stock Epson printer driver level of 1.6 UV density. Epson inks are transparent and designed to mix and blend to create thousands of colors on reflective white paper. Screen printers have to increase ink deposit to stop UV energy.

If that density works, you don't have a problem. People don't call me when they don't have a problem. Ghostscript is free and definitely converts vector files so they can be printed, but I would love to know how to increase the ink deposit and then calibrate it for accurate halftones after that increase. If that is possible, a skilled programmer could offer the customized settings to the screen printing world and name their price, just like the RIP companies.



ImageIt said:


> The question i've had about the epson is why anyone would want to put extra ink to film?
> 
> With just the standard usage of the Epson, i've found that the stock epson black ink has been more than dense enough to produce great screens.


I agree that stock Epson ink is the most reliable. Every inkjet positive I have made in the last 8 years has been with stock Epson ink.

I do like Lyson Matte Dye ink in 7xxx and 9xxx printers made before the latest versions 7880 and 9880 that there is no bulk replacement system yet. The Matte Dye is just naturally darker than Photo Black, although there is not much improvement in actual UV density - it makes printers without a UV densitometer feel better.

My RIP suggestions have always been aimed at people that are having problems with positives that fail to stop UV energy and create a crust in the image area that is hard or impossible to wash out. I get calls every day from printers with this problem. This is why I have so many posts asking people to compare their positive to a dime that I know stops all UV energy. (Search this forum for dime). I like your suggestion of using aluminum foil as a test, even better and I am using it myself. 



ImageIt said:


> From my observation of screen emulsions, they have excellent contrast. With even the most minimal control over the exposure, the difference between the film with ink verses without is more than ample for a fantastic screen.


Stencils all have excellent contrast by design, but there are still degrees of penetration that can test the survival of a stencil in washout and on the press. Complaints come from screen makers that have stencils that fail - and most fail because they are not measuring exposure with a 21 Step Transmission Gray Scale or Exposure Calculator. Under exposure is the #1 screen making problem because most people don't calibrate for undercutting of the positive.

Weak exposure units also means longer exposure. I often find that low energy light sources and weak positives can sometimes survive complete exposure, because the low energy can't penetrate even the weak positive, like mild rain on a coat. But a strong light source can penetrate that same raincoat like a gun, and expose some of the image area - making it hard to wash out. 



ImageIt said:


> Why would i want to spend twice as much on over expensive ink than is needed?
> 
> fred


Having problems with positives that fail to stop UV energy and create a crust that is hard or impossible to wash out.


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## zack68ss (Jul 4, 2008)

Hey guys i tested the settings and these are the results.

1. select best quality, also select ultra premium glossy photo paper.
*-i saw an improvement from my previous print. more uniform ink distribution but still failed when i tried to burn the screen. it wouldn't washout completely.*

2. AccuRIP download.
*-o my GOD!! this is worth the Benny's. The halftone option was magnificient, the ink was as thick as possible. I did have to give extra drying time but definitley much darker coat of ink. one problem though. the screen still failed.*

this leads me to my next question. several of you have said you use waterproof film to print on. does this have a tacky surface on one side? the reason i ask is because i did notice one thing. the 3M transperancy paper has a textured side to which the ink is supposed to stick to, when held up to the light it seems that the texture might be causing cracks, that let the UV through, exposing the detail on the design. do you think this could be the problem? with AccuRIP the ink is abundant so its definitley not the amount of ink.
Help again.


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## ProTShirt (Dec 21, 2006)

I have a friend who is selling me his copy of FlexiSign Pro for a really GOOD PRICE! Anyone know if this software will help me with the RIP and Epson 1400 issue? Will it help with the darker pintout?


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*FlexiSign Pro for Epson 1400?*



ProTShirt said:


> I have a friend who is selling me his copy of FlexiSign Pro for a really GOOD PRICE! Anyone know if this software will help me with the RIP and Epson 1400 issue? Will it help with the darker pintout?


FlexiSign Pro is a fantastic vinyl cutting program designed for sign making. It has no functions to increase ink deposit for any inkjet printer. It's digital output is designed for direct printing on sign substrates.

It does have questionably the best scanning and conversion to vector program which handles all the special functions a signmaker could use. Very strong font identification for fonts you can't identify. I know of plenty of signmakers that cut Rubylith or vinyl to make screens with FlexiSign Pro, but they own it already.

It sells for about US$4,000 - about 13 times more than the Epson 1400.

I know you could re-sell FlexiSign Pro depending on the price.


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## Madrod (Jun 27, 2007)

i us e the 1400 also for film positives. when i print them i go to the advance setting in the printer properties and select gloss photo film. 

i also set the quality to best photo and the saturation to +25 and the contrast to +25 also. this takes a little bit longer to print but the film is nice and dark. 

i use chromablue to coat my screens and expose them on a basic ranar exposure unit for 2 min.

hope this helps,
MADROD


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## out da box (May 1, 2007)

Flexi-Sign Pro does have a halftone RIP for certain printers, and it works... but it will not lay down extra ink....but if you choose glossy photo paper as your print mode, it will print plenty dark enough.

Ghost script works wonderful and it's free, if you can figure out how to use it. IT will not lay down extra ink, but if you choose gloosy photo in your print settings, it will print plenty dark enough.

I'm sure accurip and power rip work great. I have used fast rip and it works great on a 3000.

I use no rip for my 4800 and print at 1440dpi. I could get it a little darker in 2880, but it will print slower. Even though I can see a little light through the black ink, every single halftone dot and fine line exposes fine and completely washes out with chromaline udc-2 dual-cure. I'm sure RLX dual-cure would offer the same results. 

I think the key to getting good exposures may have more to do with the LIGHT SOURCE and a VACUUM FRAME. I have NEVER burned a screen in more than 1 min. with dual-cure and NEVER more than 20 sec. with photopolymer.

I also think that the money and time and experimentation would be best invested in the exposure unit, not so much with the printer-ink-rip question.


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## manicprints (May 27, 2009)

I'm using an Epson 1400 with blackmax ink cartridges and accurip. I wasn't satisfied with the black on my films with the default settings using all carts for printing and adjusted my droplet weight to heavy this made my films run so I went back to medium I just noticed another setting above that that allows light standard or heavy. Here is my question will toggling to heavy with standard droplet weight give me darker positives without over saturating my waterproof R-film?

Thanks ahead of time,
Robert


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## Kime (Aug 1, 2008)

*"The halftone option was magnificient, the ink was as thick as possible. I did have to give extra drying time but definitely much darker coat of ink. one problem though. the screen still failed."
*I wonder if you are over-exposing? Have you tried a shorter exposure time? Does your exposure unit ensure good contact between the film and the emulsion? Is there any chance that your screens are getting exposed to some light somewhere else before you washout? Are you using extremely sensitive emulsion that is tricky to work with? I agree with out da box that your problems are not caused by your positives but probably by your exposure unit or timing.

I also use a 1400, but I use cheapo ink with a CIS and it works fine. The CIS makes it a breeze to refill the black ink and so I don't need black max, and I can do color printing on the same printer. If you need to do halftones then you do have to have a rip program, but if you are doing spot colors just following Madrod's advice about the settings gives good results on waterproof media without a rip program.


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## HostileCity215 (Jun 23, 2009)

I can't believe people are breaking down and buying this AccuRIP program for $500. Why not try and find a ripped copy or something. Jeezz!


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## Yo' Daddy (Aug 17, 2007)

I have a 1400 printer, and have used a rip and got amazing results. As Richard says: the rip gives you guaranteed results.

On the other hand, I got good results without using the rip by adjusting printer settings and making sure I had the right kind of films. From my experience, office depot films will not work well. You need a good quality waterproof film to capture the pigment (or preferably dye) from the printer.

Also, if your printer has a setting for transparency sheets, you do not want to use it. This will tell the printer to lay down a thin ink deposit. You want to use a type the settings for a type of paper that you think will absorb a lot of ink - something like plain paper or glossy photo paper. Make sure your settings are to "best photo." 

If you are doing halftones and things like that, sometimes messing with these settings can give you dot gain which is a problem, but I have never encountered this personally.

If you have the money, I'd say get the rip. However, there's no doubt in my mind that you can get by without it. 

Good luck!


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## Guest (Jan 24, 2010)

Zach, I have the epson 1400 printer as well. I use a cheap CIS i got off of ebay. When i first started printing positives i used the cheap transparencies from office supply places too and had the same problems. I bought the waterproof positives from ryonet, set me printer to "best photo" and premium paper (premium glossy photo i think it is) setting and it came out perfect even with the cheap ink so, for me, it was the transparencies!
Good Luck!


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## scottyjr (Sep 12, 2009)

madaradio said:


> question for you,
> 
> will Ghostscript, being a RIP, produce high density blacks? Or is it just used for halftones?
> 
> ...


Ghostscript has no apabilities to print denser positives. 

I may be totally missing a concept of a RIP but, I don't believe any RIP can influence printer output. I believe this is strictly a printer function and it is the additional software incorporated into the commercially avaliable 'RIPs' (aside from the actual RIP) that enables the user to be dialed in to the proper printer settings for a good positive. The same printer settings that are available without the RIP if one knows where to look and do some experimenting with the settings. In short the 'RIP' can't do any controlling of printer output that the printer can't do on it's own.

- Scotty


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Screen printing RIPs increase ink deposit*



scottyjr said:


> Ghostscript has no apabilities to print denser positives.
> 
> I may be totally missing a concept of a RIP but, I don't believe any RIP can influence printer output. I believe this is strictly a printer function and it is the additional software incorporated into the commercially avaliable 'RIPs' (aside from the actual RIP) that enables the user to be dialed in to the proper printer settings for a good positive. The same printer settings that are available without the RIP if one knows where to look and do some experimenting with the settings. In short the 'RIP' can't do any controlling of printer output that the printer can't do on it's own.


For screen printing, we need a one color print for clear film, not a photographic 8 color printer. We hot-rod them to do what they weren't designed for.

Clever RIP programmers can increase ink deposit to make the * transparent ink* designed for CMYK printing of multi-color photographs, opaque enough to stop UV energy. We have no use for color management RIPs, that control color matches in poster or photo output on beautiful substrates..

Epson inkj et printers use a room temperature mechanical, *piezoelectric* technology of precise electrical pulses that cause the ink reservoir wall in the head to compress, projecting ink through the nozzle. 

Programmers can control the piezo head for exact placement, size and shape of each 'ink dot', then shape halftone *spots *with the millions of ink droplets they eject in each square inch.

In AccuRIP for instance, you can select Droplet Size to modify ink deposit. So do the other 3 screen printing RIPs.

Alas, Canon and HP printers use* thermal* heads that heat the ink to 500°F over and over, producing a vapor bubble in the ink reservoir (bubble jet). When the ink expands, droplets are ejected through the nozzle. This cannot be increased with a RIP programming.

One of the side effects of the high heat, is that the cooling phase alters critical nozzle alignment which is not so bad for photographs, but not good for hard sharp halftones.

Nobody makes a screen printing RIP for thermal head printers.

*Homework*
http://www.ulano.com/ijf/whatdoesaripdo.htm
http://www.ulano.com/ijf/inkjetfilm.htm


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

I need to get a new printer and have been lookig at the 1400. So from what I understand, no rip, no halftones? Using a laser/vellum combo now and can set my LPI/angles in my graphics softare and go. So the epson has no postscript capabilities? Will ghostscript allow me to do the halftones that way from greyscale/vector images in B&W?


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## manicprints (May 27, 2009)

I played with ghost rip a little but the halftone control was difficult and I could not get it to print from a full set of all black ink cartridges. I came up with the cash for accu-rip black max and R-film and am very happy with the results. I know it's not cheap but compared to the headaches of dealing with incorrect ink incorrect film it was worth it. you can simulate halftones though in two ways. with Photoshop you can make a duplicate of each layer in your separation and convert them to black and white and specify the halftone directly to the art. It's not as nice but its possible. the other thing I did was use Vanderlee halftone effects but the plugin puts an anti-aliased edge around your halftone dots, so again I would drop the art down to black and white and subject it to a 50% Threshold to get rid of the fuzzy edges. I would suggest forking out the dough for one of the rip software pigmented uv ink combo's and the correct film as I'm happy with mine. good luck with ghost rip hope it works for you.


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

Thanks, been looking into this. I can spring for the printer and good film right away, but not the accurip, so I think I'm gonna give it a shot with ghostscript first. I can always get the rip program later. Found some other informative threads here about using corel to set accurate halftones with the PS "ghost" printer, and I can already swing that, and already have a PS printer loaded to use as the print to file option beforehand. Getting tired of babying along my decrepit expensive laser dinosaur I'll let you know how it works out. I'm probably going to want to run some color stuff out of it as well. Filmwise, do you think I should go with the R-waterproof, or are other inkjet films comparable? Got several local suppliers that carry films I can get overnight, wanna get this dialed in ASAP so I can take the laser out and put it down


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## manicprints (May 27, 2009)

I'm using the waterproof R-film, but you can easily get alot of the film manufactures to send free samples of their film, Ulano was quite helpful and sent a few sheets of there 8.5x11" waterproof film for me to try out. If you talk to them most likely they will send you a sample to try out their products. Oh and the name waterproof film is kind of a crazy term because if you get this stuff wet the gel side will swell up and destroy your film.

Good luck!


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

Thanks again! Looks like the r-film and the Ulano are the two that have been recommended so far. There's 2 local (WA State) suppliers for Ulano so I might try that first just for speed/convenience sake. Limping my laser along today to get out some deadline jobs, but hope to make the switch by Thursday.


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

So....Ryonet sent me samples of the Waterproof R-Film overnight, Ulano never replied to my email. Finally had the time to switch printers, and the r-film works awesome. Since they were quick with free samples I imagine I'll stick with them, already ordered some.

Also just want to thank everyone who posted info here, getting perfect positives on the first try thanks to all of you. Have not yet gotten into the ghostrip halftones yet since I haven't had to, probably try that out tonight just to get it figured out.


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## RichardGreaves (Nov 7, 2006)

*Inkjet Film samples*



gryphonart said:


> So....Ryonet sent me samples of the Waterproof R-Film overnight, Ulano never replied to my email.
> 
> Finally had the time to switch printers, and the r-film works awesome. Since they were quick with free samples I imagine I'll stick with them, already ordered some.


Ryonet imports their own film. Ulano sells through distribution. Every Ulano distributor gets free sample packaging of almost any Ulano product. You don't display where you live, but if your local Ulano distributors don't stock samples - it's their own choice.

As for Ulano not responding to your email - I'm interested in who you sent it to. Your regional Ulano rep & distributors are listed on the web site USA map of Distributors of Ulano Screen Making Products

All the bosses are listed on the Contact page, left column: Contact Ulano


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

*Re: Inkjet Film samples*



RichardGreaves said:


> Ryonet imports their own film. Ulano sells through distribution. Every Ulano distributor gets free sample packaging of almost any Ulano product. You don't display where you live, but if your local Ulano distributors don't stock samples - it's their own choice.
> 
> As for Ulano not responding to your email - I'm interested in who you sent it to. Your regional Ulano rep & distributors are listed on the web site USA map of Distributors of Ulano Screen Making Products
> 
> All the bosses are listed on the Contact page, left column: Contact Ulano


Not sure who I contacted, but it wasn't a distributor, probably a regional rep. There's a couple in my area, think Northwest Sign and Midwest Sign both carry it. Thought about contacting them, but Ryonet is also local (1 day shipping) and by the following morning they had sent samples already so I decided to try them first. Next time I order from Midwest/Northwest I'll ask them so I can compare. It's also possible spam assassin deleted a reply from Ulano before I ever saw it.


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## fajedi (Oct 6, 2010)

gryphonart said:


> So....Ryonet sent me samples of the Waterproof R-Film overnight, Ulano never replied to my email. Finally had the time to switch printers, and the r-film works awesome. Since they were quick with free samples I imagine I'll stick with them, already ordered some.
> 
> Also just want to thank everyone who posted info here, getting perfect positives on the first try thanks to all of you. Have not yet gotten into the ghostrip halftones yet since I haven't had to, probably try that out tonight just to get it figured out.


Hi, So what set up did you end up using Gryphone? Is it epson 1400, and r-film with no rip? Also, are you using all black catridges or just one black catridge. Thanks.


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## gryphonart (Aug 29, 2009)

Using the epson 1400 with just the 1 black cartridge, ryonet waterproof film, and ghostscript/ghostview. Excellent results. Ghostscript took a little getting used to but it works gret once you get the hang of it, and it free to use.


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## fajedi (Oct 6, 2010)

gryphonart said:


> Using the epson 1400 with just the 1 black cartridge, ryonet waterproof film, and ghostscript/ghostview. Excellent results. Ghostscript took a little getting used to but it works gret once you get the hang of it, and it free to use.


Thanks for the reply Gryphonart.


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