# DTF T-shirt Wrinkles After ONE Wash



## Noahfrosty (2 mo ago)

Hi folks, attached you’ll see a picture of my problem.

what would cause this issue? Immediately coming out of the washer they all have the same problem of wrinkles all over the design.

Is this user error when pressing the designs with the heat press? Or could this be a quality issue (I buy my transfers in bulk from an Etsy seller)? I’m very new to all of this and it’s very disheartening to see my hard work to go waste.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

are these new blanks?

they look old in the pics, but it could be my eyes


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## Noahfrosty (2 mo ago)

into the T said:


> are these new blanks?
> 
> they look old in the pics, but it could be my eyes


Hi, these are brand new. I pressed them and washed them the next day.


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## TeedUp (Apr 22, 2020)

idk, but wondering if it seems you have a lot more ink on the film than you really need? Or maybe it's the adhesive the seller is using?


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

Noahfrosty said:


> Is this user error when pressing the designs with the heat press? Or could this be a quality issue


Most likely a moisture issue.
Both cotton and TPU adhesives absorb moisture from the air.
If the moisture is not removed, the steam pressure generated when pressing will displace the adhesive and the transfer does not adhere properly.

Other possible issues:
a) Not enough pressure, or
b) Skipping the post-press step for hot-peel transfers, or
c) Low quality transfers.


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## Noahfrosty (2 mo ago)

TABOB said:


> Most likely a moisture issue.
> Both cotton and TPU adhesives absorb moisture from the air.
> If the moisture is not removed, the steam pressure generated when pressing will displace the adhesive and the transfer does not adhere properly.
> 
> ...


You’re saying that the actual adhesive on the transfer can absorb moisture? How is this avoided?


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## Ghoster32111 (Jan 21, 2013)

You can store the adhesive powder in an air tight container when not in use with moisture absorbing material (like silica packets for example) also give your shirts a prepress before putting on the transfer to get the moisture out of the shirt.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

Noahfrosty said:


> You’re saying that the actual adhesive on the transfer can absorb moisture?


It's a fact.



Noahfrosty said:


> How is this avoided?


You need to store the transfers in a dry environment, or dry them with low heat before use.
Storing the transfers in a sealed container with some desiccant will also work.
Here is an example using desiccant to keep 3d printing filament dry.


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## Noahfrosty (2 mo ago)

TABOB said:


> It's a fact.
> 
> 
> You need to store the transfers in a dry environment, or dry them with low heat before use.
> ...


Thanks for the help! I’m afraid they could’ve absorbed moisture since I live in a humid climate. If I use silica packets and a sealed container should it draw the moisture out? Or is that mainly for preventative measures?


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

cheapest desiccant is kitty litter

get a decent sized tote/lid and fill the bottom with kitty litter, then add some legs and a piece of flat plastic with holes drilled in it (another lid cut down to size would work)
then add your transfers and top with the lid


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

into the T said:


> cheapest desiccant is kitty litter
> 
> get a decent sized tote/lid and fill the bottom with kitty litter, then add some legs and a piece of flat plastic with holes drilled in it (another lid cut down to size would work)
> then add your transfers and top with the lid


Not the clay or sand or fiber type, but the "crystal" kind that is actually the same stuff as in the desiccant packets.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

Noahfrosty said:


> I’m afraid they could’ve absorbed moisture since I live in a humid climate. If I use silica packets and a sealed container should it draw the moisture out? Or is that mainly for preventative measures?


I would say it's preventative, because transfers stored in a pile (or worse in a plastic bag) will not dry fast enough to make it viable.
Personally, I put all types of transfers through the conveyor dryer before use.
You could dry single transfers by hovering the press over them for 20-30 seconds, just before you do the shirt, or maybe before you store them in the dry box.



into the T said:


> cheapest desiccant is kitty litter


Unless you know a brand that is pure silica gel, I advise against using cat litter.
Pure silica gel is reusable, so you only buy once.
Here is an example. 7.5Lbs for $40, and it changes color when it needs recharging.








"Dry & Dry" [7.5 LBS] Premium Orange Indicating Silica Gel Desiccant Beads(Industry Standard 2-4 mm) - Rechargeable(1 Gallon): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


"Dry & Dry" [7.5 LBS] Premium Orange Indicating Silica Gel Desiccant Beads(Industry Standard 2-4 mm) - Rechargeable(1 Gallon): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

TABOB said:


> Unless you know a brand that is pure silica gel, I advise against using cat litter.
> Pure silica gel reusable, so you only buy once.
> Here is an example. 7.5Lbs for $40, and it changes color when it needs recharging.
> 
> ...


i think it would take years for kitty litter to absorb enough moisture from transfers to become in need of replacing
you should be able to regenerate it in a 200 degree oven as well
even better if you already have a kitty, ready supply of desiccant

if you have dry rice on hand, that works too
or pick a bucket of damp rid for under $5 (calcium chloride)

this is not a high volume moisture removal endeavor
heck you could hit them with a hair dryer on low, or hover the upper platen over them as TABOB mentioned above


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## NoXid (Apr 4, 2011)

TABOB said:


> I would say it's preventative, because transfers stored in a pile (or worse in a plastic bag) will not dry fast enough to make it viable.
> Personally, I put all types of transfers through the conveyor dryer before use.
> You could dry single transfers by hovering the press over them for 20-30 seconds, just before you do the shirt, or maybe before you store them in the dry box.
> 
> ...


The color changing feature would be nice.


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## Shehryar (3 mo ago)

Ghoster32111 said:


> You can store the adhesive powder in an air tight container when not in use with moisture absorbing material (like silica packets for example) also give your shirts a prepress before putting on the transfer to get the moisture out of the shirt.


That's a must. It should be certainly stored air tight or else moisture may ruin it and would be of no use afterwards. Its a very good advice.


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## tamaralig (Jan 27, 2019)

Noahfrosty said:


> Hi folks, attached you’ll see a picture of my problem.
> 
> what would cause this issue? Immediately coming out of the washer they all have the same problem of wrinkles all over the design.
> 
> ...


I seen this when I first started making transfers. It was finding my balance on my ink density. The adhesive should never really make it too thick to the point it wrinkles. Not if cured correctly.
You mentioned this is fresh out the washer as well, how does the shirt look if you let it hang dry?


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## tamaralig (Jan 27, 2019)

Noahfrosty said:


> Thanks for the help! I’m afraid they could’ve absorbed moisture since I live in a humid climate. If I use silica packets and a sealed container should it draw the moisture out? Or is that mainly for preventative measures?


I store the ones I print in a plastic tote. I get the silica packs for like $7 on Amazon.
You’d know if moisture is a culprit though immediately after peeling the film. If moisture is present, it’ll look like wet marks on the print.


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## cbslanger (Feb 9, 2012)

try on a different shirt (pre-washed, polyester) and see what happens, it might be shrinkage in the cotton shirt. If the cotton shrinks the transfer got nowhere to go and will crease like yours.


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## A-SUB Sublimation Paper (3 mo ago)

There may also be a reason for DTF Powder


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## tamaralig (Jan 27, 2019)

cbslanger said:


> try on a different shirt (pre-washed, polyester) and see what happens, it might be shrinkage in the cotton shirt. If the cotton shrinks the transfer got nowhere to go and will crease like yours.


Poly will yield the weakest results especially if it’s performance (silky) poly.
Cotton shouldn’t shrink by much if the vendor bills itself as preshrunk. Even then wrinkling should not be extreme.


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## lopegov364 (2 mo ago)

A-SUB Sublimation Paper said:


> There may also be a reason for DTF Powder


Yeah I guest so


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## calvint20ooma (12 d ago)

cbslanger said:


> try on a different shirt (pre-washed, polyester) and see what happens, it might be shrinkage in the cotton shirt. If the cotton shrinks the transfer got nowhere to go and will crease like yours.


I think this the the culprit. Cotton T-shirts shrink a lot. I have the same outcome with different dtf vendors and even Supacolor too.


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## calvint20ooma (12 d ago)




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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

calvint20ooma said:


> I think this the the culprit. Cotton T-shirts shrink a lot. I have the same outcome with different dtf vendors and even Supacolor too.


It's a combination of factors, and shrinkage is one of them.
If the shirt does not shrink, then you will never notice the issue. Unfortunately all 100% cotton shirts do shrink.
The amount of shrinkage will vary from shirt to shirt, but they all shrink by at least half a size, and the situation gets worse if you wash and dry them hot.
Shrinkage is easy to verify by placing a washed shirt over one that has not been washed. Just do the test and you will see for yourselves.

The second factor is bad quality or incorrect application.
These are known issues for all thin film transfers, including HTV.
Good transfers applied correctly are likely to curl up after the wash, but will not wrinkle.
The curling issue hapens to plastisol prints as well. It's just what cotton does when it shrinks.

The easy way around it is 50/50 blends because those don't shrink.


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

Related post on the pressure issue, and bear in mind DTF transfers need 60-80psi
If your press can apply 20-30 psi of pressure, you can compensate by using more time and/or more heat, but it is not optimal.








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