# Can a bad Cutting Strip cause blades to dull?



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

I have a Graphtec CE5000-60 plotter. I have never replaced the cutting strip, and I have had the plotter for over 2 years. I just recently found out I needed to so I ordered one. It hasn't come in yet, but I am having a hard time getting my Clean Cut Blades to last. The tips are bending, and some edges of the letters are not cutting through completely. I am thinking it is the cutting strip, but can a bad strip cause this? 

I have changed the depth of my blades because that was the problem to begin with, but I am still having trouble. The strip won't be in until later this week, and I am needing decals made.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

The simple and short answer is Yes! 
The cutting strip supports the material while it is being cut. A worn cutting strip of one that has a groove down the center will affect your cutting settings. It is like the difference of driving a car down an newly repaved road or driving down one full of chuck holes. The blade will bounce just like the car will causing some areas not to cut and other areas to cut too deeply. On average a cutting strip should be changed every six to nine months, minimal once a year. Not only can you get a groove down the center from cutting, but the friction of the material feeding over the strip will wear it down over time. Granted this is a minimal amount but this small amount will affect your cutting settings. 
Just like cleaning the blade holder from time to time. A dirty blade holder will cause the blade to stick and not turn freely causing bad cuts in corners and on detailed designs. The blades come with a small amount of oil on them to help lubricate the holder. The holder has small/tiny bearings on the inside that let the blade turn. Dirt can build up on the bearings can cause the blade to stick and not turn freely. Every time you change the blade you should inspect the holder. If it has an adjustable cap, it should be removed and cleaned to make sure little pieces of material are not stuck inside. When you insert a new blade make sure it is turning freely. If not remove the blade and wipe it off, insert it again and see if it is any better. Now I would not recommend doing the next step each time you replace the blade because you will just cause more issues. However with heavy use on the cutter it should be done every four to six months. 
To clean and lubricate the blade holder, start by removing the adjustable cap if it has one. Remove the blade and wipe it off with a lint free cloth. Place the blade on a piece of paper and add a single drop of clear oil on the blade. Roll it in the oil to distribute it evenly on the blade. Place the blade in the holder and turn the blade, again it should turn freely. Remove the blade and wipe off any excess oil, place the blade back in the holder, replace the cap and do a test cut on your cutter. If you are replacing the blade at the same time, remember to reduced you force setting so you don’t break the blade on the first test cut. If after oiling the blade holder the blade doesn’t turn freely I would let it sit over night and try it again in the morning. Sometimes if the blade holder is very dry it will need to sit over night to give the oil time to get in to the bearings. If it is still sticking than the blade holder should be replaced. 
The above steps were given to me by a cutter manufacturer years ago for cleaning the blade holder.
If the blade holder has been dropped it can dislodge the bearings and cause the same time of issue with the blade not being able to turn in the holder. 
Now I have also seen posts by another person, which may or may not be on this forum, which recommends soaking the holder in turpentine to clean it. I have to say I have never used this method nor have I seen/heard a cutter manufacturer make this recommendation. 
Hope this helps.
CW
P.S. Sorry for the novel!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Is there a better place to purchase one other than US Cutter? I don't have a problem with them, but it takes a little longer to receive since it ships from Washington.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

where are you?


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> where are you?


I'm in Alabama.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm sure there is someone on the east coast that would sell them, did you try contacting Graphtec or Google it online. (I have a Roland)


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> I'm sure there is someone on the east coast that would sell them, did you try contacting Graphtec or Google it online. (I have a Roland)


I didn't try Graphtec, but I searched Google. US Cutter always came up so I just used them. I found JSI out of Atlanta, but it is more expensive from them.


----------



## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

try Clean Cut Blade I think they are in Iowa


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

charles95405 said:


> try Clean Cut Blade I think they are in Iowa



I use their blades, but I didn't know they had replacement parts. I will call them. Thank you.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

I talked with Ross. He cannot get a cutting strip, but he recommended Specialty Graphics for a replacement blade holder. All I saw on their website was the OEM, but I don't really want to pay $99 for a new blade holder or should I?

Any recommendations on the blade holder or where to buy a replacement?


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Blade holders are expensive. Start with the cutting strip, clean the blade holder if the blade is sticking and go from there
CW


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Blade holders are expensive. Start with the cutting strip, clean the blade holder if the blade is sticking and go from there
> CW



I honestly don't think the blade holder is bad or I cannot tell if it is.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Being very careful, place the tip of the blade between your fingers and turn the blade. If it spins easily it should be OK. If it feels like it is sticking or resisting the turn, the blade holder may need cleaning. Also if you have never cleaned the holder in two years it isn’t going to hurt it to clean and oil it.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Being very careful, place the tip of the blade between your fingers and turn the blade. If it spins easily it should be OK. If it feels like it is sticking or resisting the turn, the blade holder may need cleaning. Also if you have never cleaned the holder in two years it isn’t going to hurt it to clean and oil it.



Thank you. I will try that. 

I am trying to remove my strip, and it is a long process. Does this thing have two sides to it because the top layer came off easily, but the second layer is a pain? Also, since I had my blades too far our for a long time. It cut through the cutting strip and went to the plotter underneath. Is this going to hurt the plotter or will putting a new cutting strip be the fix?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to this.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

not sure never replaced one on a Graphtec


----------



## funkytshirts (Jul 26, 2010)

Nice post.. I never noticed how worn my cutting strip was!!!


----------



## Nick Horvath (Feb 26, 2010)

JJL618 said:


> Thank you. I will try that.
> 
> I am trying to remove my strip, and it is a long process. Does this thing have two sides to it because the top layer came off easily, but the second layer is a pain? Also, since I had my blades too far our for a long time. It cut through the cutting strip and went to the plotter underneath. Is this going to hurt the plotter or will putting a new cutting strip be the fix?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to this.


Are there scratches on the metal of the cutter itself under the cutting strip? I do not think that will be an issue once the new strip is on. You probably just took the paint off.


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

I have read that reflective vinyl does a good job to repair a cutting strip or after reading CW's advice ... maybe put some on to avoid replacing the strip itself . I am going to put some on my cutting strip as preventive maintenace . Might save some money , but should save a bunch of time . Great post CW


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

HouseHauler said:


> I have read that reflective vinyl does a good job to repair a cutting strip or after reading CW's advice ... maybe put some on to avoid replacing the strip itself . I am going to put some on my cutting strip as preventive maintenace . Might save some money , but should save a bunch of time . Great post CW


Your welcome! I have to comment on putting Reflective vinyl over the cutting strip…I don’t think I would recommend this. Most reflective vinyl has glass beads in it to make the material reflective. Cutting reflective material will wear your blades down faster than any other material because the blade is scraping against the glass beads. I have heard of placing a sticky mask over the cutting strip in a pinch if you are waiting to get a new one but I wouldn’t use if there all the time. If you are using some of the newer thinner materials a good cutting strip is essential for getting a good cut. Adding an additional layer to the strip will cause you to need to adjust your cutting specs from what the manufacturer has recommended due to this added thickness. 
I would also recommend getting two cutting strips when you order one to replace the one on the machine and one to have on hand for those late night jobs when nothing is going right and you cut through the strip. Once you replace the strip a second time order two more. 
Sorry I somehow missed the question on the cuts into the metal on the cutter. If you have been going through blades this is the reason, the blade is cutting past the strip and into the metal housing. Scratching the housing and killing the blade. Remember the blade only needs to be extended just a small fraction more than the thickness of the material you are cutting. Once weeded and applied there should only be a slight mark on the carrier where the blade cut the material. If you are always cutting deeply in to the carrier, than the tip of the blade will dull faster from cutting the carrier, you also risk breaking the tip off the blade. 
CW


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

Good points  . I have wondered about about 1 thing you mention . Seems to me the thickness would not bother any set-up adjustments as long as in the normal range of movement for the cutting head . I was thinking the head continues to push down until the set pressure is achieved . I would think cutting anything that barely fits under the blade at rest ... or thin stuff right above the cuting strip would be the same ??? I have read posts asking about cutting 3/16 thick stuff elsewhere & wondered if there would be any diference other than much more drag for the blade ???


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

I have cut some very thick material on flat bed cutters but would not attempt on a roll fed cutter. I have cut vinyl floor tile on a flat bed! I did not cut all the way through the first time but keeps extending the blade making multiple cuts. But there is no way I would try doing this on a roll fed cutter. I just wanted to point out if there were any issues with the cutting strip they will show up more on a thinner material than they will on a thicker one or a fabric. For example twill will not show defects as much as say Fashion Film. 
In this thread we have been talking about the cutter, cutting strip, blade and holder, the art work can also cause problems in cutting; too many nodes, cusp nodes where it should be smooth, too many nodes at an outside corner, not enough nodes at an inside corner. If your design is having problems weeding in the same spot each time take a close look at that section in the design and see if it could be an issue with the nodes (anchor points in Ill.). And I won’t even start about some of the issues you can have cutting downloaded fonts from the Internet…that’s a different thread all on its own. 
CW


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

Remember though if you place the reflective material over your cutting strip it will cause more wear to the blade as opposed to replacing the cutter strip. I replaced a strip on a Ce5000-60 and it was a bear at they put it on with a butyl type of adhesive that does not come off easy. next time I am going to try dry ice when i remove the strip to harden the butyl so it should come off cleanly


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

A little goo gone on a rag works well, also a rubber cement pickup (from the art store) will help clean off the glue.


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

I have my blade adjusted so it does not cut into the backing paper , let alone the cutting strip ( or anything I put on the cutting strip like reflective vinyl ) . I have it adjusted so it barely makes a crease in the backing paper . You must have your blade adjusted WAY to far out ... adjust it so it does not cut into the backing paper * MOST importantly , not cut into the cutting strip , no matter if it is covered by reflective vinyl or not 

If the blade is cutting into the cutting strip , a mistake has been made & IMO better to minimize the damage , hence the reflective vinyl .


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks corel whisperer, does this work well with the thick butyl type of adhesive - it is about 1/16" thick. Usually the only time I have personally had a problem is when the origin has not been reset and the vinyl backs out when I am in the other room weeding! The cutter that was bed enough to need the strip replaced was bought that way and was being resold. when I sell a unit I do not cobble it up with reflective tape. I do it right!


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

JJL618 said:


> Thank you. I will try that.
> 
> I am trying to remove my strip, and it is a long process. Does this thing have two sides to it because the top layer came off easily, but the second layer is a pain? Also, since I had my blades too far our for a long time. It cut through the cutting strip and went to the plotter underneath. Is this going to hurt the plotter or will putting a new cutting strip be the fix?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to this.


the one I did I soaked a rag and sat it on a small area at a time with thinner to soften the butyl - this worked but was labor intensive, that is the reason I will try the dry ice next time. the graphtecs are different than any other cutter I have replaced a strip on in that the adhesive is so thick and does not like to come off.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Yes, the hardest part of changing the strip is getting the old one off. I have never changed one on a Graphtec just Roland, Mimaki and Ioline. I used a plastic scraper to remove the double sided tape and then the goo gone to do clean up after.


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

dakotasden said:


> I do not cobble it up with reflective tape. I do it right!


I made those newbie mistakes when i started out . If your blade is cutting into the cutting strip or anything on the cutting strip it really does wear the blade out very fast . If/when I make that mistake , I replace the blade right away since I have a bunch of regular blades i bought at a bargain price in e-bay . I have never ruined a cutting strip . The way I adjust the blade is by taking the blade holder by and & adjust it so the blade barely makes a mark in the backing paper ... I then adjust with pressue instead of blade exposure ( advice from Ken  ) i doubt I ever will ruin or cut into the cutting strip . BTW , reflective tape is removable .. just a little more effort than regular vinyl .


----------



## Nick Horvath (Feb 26, 2010)

HouseHauler said:


> I have read that reflective vinyl does a good job to repair a cutting strip or after reading CW's advice ... maybe put some on to avoid replacing the strip itself . I am going to put some on my cutting strip as preventive maintenace . Might save some money , but should save a bunch of time . Great post CW


Reflective vinyl? I would not recommend this. Cutting strips are inexpensive for most cutters, and substituting for one can lead to other cutting issues.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

Specialty Graphics has one that is half the cost of O.E.M. it works great. Maybe you need to call them instead of looking on the website.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Okay. I finally got the strip off my plotter. So just rub it down with Goo Gone to get rid of the excess glue, and then wipe it with a wet rag. Or what do I need to do to get the goo gone off?


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

A little bit of Alcohol on a rag should cut the goo gone. Sorry forgot about adding that!


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

the oem at 22.50 CE5000-60 Replacement Teflon Cutting Strip

Specialty graphics 22.49

Cutter Protection Strips for Graphtec Vinyl Cutters

1 cent difference from what I can tell, I might understand that if I call they would have one for about 11.00?? that would be good to keep in mind!

I just looked at my roland gx-24 and the adhesive is no where near as thick as the graphtec . . . it looks like it would be a quick wipe and ready for the new strip if it ever needs one!

watching with interest as some day I may have to do another graphtec one. I have another ce-6000-60 being delivered this week!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> A little bit of Alcohol on a rag should cut the goo gone. Sorry forgot about adding that!



Thank you. You've been very helpful. Now I hope I don't screw up putting the new strip down. I'm afraid it will be crooked, and then not work right, but it's not rocket science I guess .


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Sorry for the stupid question, but is there a trick to putting a new strip on or any advise from people who have done it in the past? I'm afraid I will mess it up.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

As I said I have never replaced one of these on a Graphtec. Is there a groove it sat in or any lines to show where the old one was? Can you post a photo?


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

the replacement strip was just about as wide as the bar it sits on so Just line it up in the middle. the replacement strip should be about 3/4" wide.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> As I said I have never replaced one of these on a Graphtec. Is there a groove it sat in or any lines to show where the old one was? Can you post a photo?



There isn't a groove or anything. It just lays over this black metal part. I will get my father to help me line it up. I don't think it is too hard. I'm just paranoid.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Ok, why not try this. Before you remove the backing to stick it to the cutter, lay it in place, then use a piece of tape next to the edge of the strip to act as a guide.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Ok, why not try this. Before you remove the backing to stick it to the cutter, lay it in place, then use a piece of tape next to the edge of the strip to act as a guide.



That's what I thought about doing. Thank you for all your help.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

Just make sure to get all of the old adhesive off, peel & stick. Simple as that.
Happy cutting.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

I just put the new one on, and it isn't cutting correctly. I just put a new blade in so I will see if it does better.

Does it cut just in the middle of the strip? I may not have got the strip close enough to the edge, but it looks as if the blade holder just goes across the middle of the strip.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Yes, the blade only uses the center of the strip. 
What are you trying cut?
Did you reduce your force?
Did you clean the holder?


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Yes, the bladd only uses the center of the strip.
> What are you trying cut?
> Did you reduce your force?
> Did you clean the holder?



I'm cutting Oracal Vinyl. I put in a new blade and have it set at 13 on the force setting. My old blade I checked and it had bits of the vinyl inside so I cleaned that out and put a new blade in. I know you mentioned to clean it earlier, but I don't have any oil or anything to clean it with.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

how is it not cutting correctly? More info please!


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

Blade only out 1/2 the thickness off a credit card? Reduce speed? correct tool setting on the machine? Condition?


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> how is it not cutting correctly? More info please!



Sorry. I'm just doing letters, and the middle part of the letter R that you weed out was kinda jagged and it wouldn't pull off. I changed the blade and it isn't doing that anymore. The last blade was cutting on the bad strip so I must have bent it as well.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

mfatty500 said:


> Blade only out 1/2 the thickness off a credit card? Reduce speed? correct tool setting on the machine? Condition?



I believe I have the blade out correctly. That had been my problem beforehand, but now that I think about it it may have been the strip. 

I reduced the speed and doing some test cuts to see if I can get the proper speed and cutting force. 

I'm not a professional. I just do this to put the decals on our trailers so I don't really no what I'm doing or how everything is supposed to work.

My settings right now are -1 offset, 13 force, 25 speed, quality 2.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

How big of text are you cutting? Maybe slow down to 10-20?What degree blade are you using? 45* or 60*, tool setting?


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

mfatty500 said:


> How big of text are you cutting? Maybe slow down to 10-20?What degree blade are you using? 45* or 60*, tool setting?



Right now I am cutting about 2" letters. I am using a 45 degree. I will try slowing the speed down some more.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

Do you have a 60* blade? Try that if you do.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

mfatty500 said:


> Do you have a 60* blade? Try that if you do.



I don't, but I might get one next time I order.

I do have another question. Whenever you cut out the design and put it on the backing tape, and when you go to put the decal on or whatever, does it suppose to come off easily without having to work it much?

It always seems the letters I do sticks to the vinyl backing instead of going on smoothly to the backing tape. Is this a sign that I'm not at the right cutting depth?

Also, I just put a new blade in yesterday, and it is already giving me problems. It isn't even out 1/2 the thickness of a credit card, and it appears the tip is bent causing it to jag some of the letters. It must be something other than the cutting strip. I will pause the cutting sometime during the cut to make sure no pieces of material are in there, and sure enough almost every time there is small bits of vinyl stuck in the holder. I don't know what else to do.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

JJL618 said:


> I don't, but I might get one next time I order.
> 
> I do have another question. Whenever you cut out the design and put it on the backing tape, and when you go to put the decal on or whatever, does it suppose to come off easily without having to work it much?
> 
> ...


To answer your question I will need to ask a few questions. 
How old is the transfer tape? 
When you try to separate the design on the tape from the backing is the paper ripping? If so, the blade depth/force could be too much. 
How old is the sign material? I have found with old sign material the adhesive tends to stretch and not want to release properly. 
How long have you had the cutter? 
Have you tried a different color or type of material? If so, does it cut the same way?


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> To answer your question I will need to ask a few questions.
> How old is the transfer tape?
> When you try to separate the design on the tape from the backing is the paper ripping? If so, the blade depth/force could be too much.
> How old is the sign material? I have found with old sign material the adhesive tends to stretch and not want to release properly.
> ...


The transfer paper and vinyl is only a couple months old. I purchased it probably in May. The backing paper isn't ripping or anything. I had that problem before but it was because the depth as too much. I've had the cutter about 3 years now, and this is the first time I have had this trouble. I haven't done any maintenance on it until this week. It has done a different color the same way before. 

I saw a post you gave back in April about some 3 In 1 oil. I have some of that so I did like you said in the post. I will see if that helps.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

JJL618 said:


> The transfer paper and vinyl is only a couple months old. I purchased it probably in May. The backing paper isn't ripping or anything. I had that problem before but it was because the depth as too much. I've had the cutter about 3 years now, and this is the first time I have had this trouble. I haven't done any maintenance on it until this week. It has done a different color the same way before.
> 
> I saw a post you gave back in April about some 3 In 1 oil. I have some of that so I did like you said in the post. I will see if that helps.


Because I have not used that brand of cutter before, I need to ask a question. Do you know if it has a factory reset option? 
I know some of the other cutters have this option of setting it back to the factory defaults. Sometimes doing this on the other cutter fixes issues because it causes the cutter to reset and read the information on the main board as if it were new. I know it may sound a little odd but as I said I have seen it fix cutting issues on other brands of cutters.


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

Good points CW , if there is anything more than a mark in the backing paper , the blade is exposed too much . Also when removing the transfer tape , pull it 180 degrees away . Also spraying the transfer tape with water or application fluid ( after the vinyl has been applied ) will help remove it much better . Cleaning the item being decaled is very important . I have a roll of application tape at my farm that is 4 years old .. it is harder to work with , but I still am able to use it . Some intricate decals require alot of work even when everything is perfect .


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Because I have not used that brand of cutter before, I need to ask a question. Do you know if it has a factory reset option?
> I know some of the other cutters have this option of setting it back to the factory defaults. Sometimes doing this on the other cutter fixes issues because it causes the cutter to reset and read the information on the main board as if it were new. I know it may sound a little odd but as I said I have seen it fix cutting issues on other brands of cutters.



I honestly do not know. I will check the manual.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

HouseHauler said:


> Good points CW , if there is anything more than a mark in the backing paper , the blade is exposed too much . Also when removing the transfer tape , pull it 180 degrees away . Also spraying the transfer tape with water or application fluid ( after the vinyl has been applied ) will help remove it much better . Cleaning the item being decaled is very important . I have a roll of application tape at my farm that is 4 years old .. it is harder to work with , but I still am able to use it . Some intricate decals require alot of work even when everything is perfect .



Okay so when exactly do I spray the tape? And which side would I spray? Sorry this is new to me in regards to spraying it. I haven't heard of doing that before, and I will need to order some or use water.


----------



## HouseHauler (Jul 21, 2011)

After you peel the decal off of the backing paper & install it . Before you try to remove the application paper off of the applied decal , spray it & let it sit for a few minutes . the adhesive will dissolve/lessen grip & you can peel the transfer paper off easier without lifting the decal as much . Don't spray it above the decal as it will run down & get under the vinyl & keep it from sticking . Practice before doing something you want to keep as there is a learning curve in all of this . When installing wet , many if not most sprays the transfer tape . Applying dry , you should not need to spray , just pull the transfer tape @ 180 degrees .
A little bit of dishwashing soap & alcohol makes homesmade application fluid .

edit : in a gallon of water , 4 or 5 drops of soap , a squirt of alcohol & the rest water . I can get you a better soap & alcohol anount if you are going to make some homemade solution .


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

HouseHauler said:


> After you peel the decal off of the backing paper & install it . Before you try to remove the application paper off of the applied decal , spray it & let it sit for a few minutes . the adhesive will dissolve/lessen grip & you can peel the transfer paper off easier without lifting the decal as much . Don't spray it above the decal as it will run down & get under the vinyl & keep it from sticking . Practice before doing something you want to keep as there is a learning curve in all of this . When installing wet , many if not most sprays the transfer tape . Applying dry , you should not need to spray , just pull the transfer tape @ 180 degrees .
> A little bit of dishwashing soap & alcohol makes homesmade application fluid .


Gotcha. Thanks so much.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

You do not apply decal wet if using clear app. tape.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Okay. I just tried two different color vinyl (same brand and everything just different colors), and everything is working great so far this morning. Could it be the yellow vinyl I was using is bad or something?


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

well if you cut different material and it didn't happen it is not the cutter. Try the yellow again if it does the same thing it is something with that roll. Glad it is not the cutter!!!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> well if you cut different material and it didn't happen it is not the cutter. Try the yellow again if it does the same thing it is something with that roll. Glad it is not the cutter!!!



Me too. I just put the yellow back in after a few days of doing red. It seems to cutting fine now. I don't understand it, but I'm not going to complain.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

Cutter Gremlins!!!!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> Cutter Gremlins!!!!


Hehe. I think so!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Sorry to keep bugging people about this. 

I switched back to doing red decals yesterday, and it worked fine for the first 8 sheets I completed. After that I had problems yet again.

I put some oil on the blade, and twisted it inside the holder, and it seems to be doing better now (I also just replaced another blade. The one in there previous lasted about a week). I am thinking the blade holder is bad or not turning properly because there is no way these blades should only last one week of daily use of cutting regular vinyl. 

Any suggestions as to if the blade holder needs replaced?


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

not sure on the blade holder but get a cleancut blade and you will never go back - I've been using the same one almost a year

Clean Cut Blade

tell him dakotagrafx sent ya!


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

dakotasden said:


> not sure on the blade holder but get a cleancut blade and you will never go back - I've been using the same one almost a year
> 
> Clean Cut Blade
> 
> tell him dakotagrafx sent ya!



That is what I've got, and I have been through about 8 in a little over a month. Mine are either bad blades or something else is wrong. I'm guessing something else is wrong.

The blade is barely poking out of the holder, but yet the tips bend rather easily, and I check the holder and little pieces of vinyl (the red does this a lot) are in the holder right where the blade pokes through.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

JJL618 said:


> Sorry to keep bugging people about this.
> 
> I switched back to doing red decals yesterday, and it worked fine for the first 8 sheets I completed. After that I had problems yet again.
> 
> ...


I would try a new holder. Ask the company you order it from if you can return it if it doesn't fix the issue.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

Corel Whisperer said:


> I would try a new holder. Ask the company you order it from if you can return it if it doesn't fix the issue.



That is what I was thinking. I will get one ordered.

I wonder if those aluminum ones will work that are a lot cheaper than a blue tip OEM holder.


----------



## Corel Whisperer (Sep 1, 2010)

They work...just don't know if they last as long.


----------



## dakotasden (Aug 21, 2008)

so far I have not worn out one of the aluminum ones! If you are bending a cleancut blade you really do have problems. they are a harder / tighter grained carbide that will break the tip off if dropped or poke thru the vinyl into the cutter strip too much.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

This is a Graptech right? Is the carriage that holds the blade holder tightened properly (not loose)? Meaning it should not wiggle around , I had it come loose once, just a thought.
Good luck.


----------



## mfatty500 (Jan 18, 2010)

I got one of them aluminum holders from Specialty Graphics, and works great & less than half the price of the O.E.M.


----------



## JJL618 (May 19, 2011)

mfatty500 said:


> This is a Graptech right? Is the carriage that holds the blade holder tightened properly (not loose)? Meaning it should not wiggle around , I had it come loose once, just a thought.
> Good luck.



It is a Graphtec. I did check, and it seems to be pretty tight. I think I will try one of the off brands to start with, and hopefully that does the trick.

I emailed Graphtec as well, and they said a blade holder would only last 10-12 months as much as I am cutting so I believe it is time to change holders.


----------

