# Long Stitch Help Needed



## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

Hello, I am new to the embroidery world. I have been practicing digitizing. I have been working on the honda logo for practice. As seen in the attachment when it goes to a long stitch it takes a chunk out, what could be causing this, what are the remedies to fix this. I have been practicing with wilcom 65. I am not using the auto function I did this all manually... but it also does it in auto I have been playing with the settings still cannot get it to work.

---also another design I have practice when I embroidered it I noticed some spaced inbetween the two different colors, on the screen it doesnt show any spaces. I also found overlapping, it was a white border and the blue from a design when over the white, how can this be prevented


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

Most likely you are exceeding the maximum stitch length for your machine. What type of machine are you stitching this on?


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

a brother single head.... i dont have it configured in wilcom the machine.


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

what it looks like is youve gone past maximum stitch length if you select the logo and right click then select properties you will be able to adjust maximum stitch length. for tajima it is 12.7 mm. you may need to use a double satin or change to a tatami. maybe make design smaller.


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

brother is basically tajima


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

You are exceeding the max stitch length for the machine just use a different stitch. Long satin stitches do not hold up well on designs anyway.


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

thanks got it working, still getting used to this alot to learn still. For a nice Satin look what do you keep your stitch spacing at? or if you use auto spacing what %... any tips for creating in wilcom? (disable any default settings or change something)?


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

to start with i would leave the defaults as they are, wilcom has been around along time it pretty much works. the finish your talking about has alot to do with tension and needle size/ type. tension may seem kind of ambiguos but its not. its not always possible but try to stick to the same manufacturer of thread madeira and wire have good consistancy of finish on them, which means they'll run through the thread course about the same color to color dye lot to dye lot. you can use the block I test on all needles to get your 1/3,1/3, 1/3, top/bottom/top. for about 15 dollars you can get a gauge for your top thread and set it 100-130gm for rayon 110-150gms for poly. the gauge is good for beginners until you get a feel for it. If you set all the tops the same then all you gotta mess with usually is the bobbin. theres a gauge for that too(20- 35 gms i set it to about 25gms) its kind of pricey about 50 bucks. needles a dbxk5 75/11 will work. a 70/10 will give you a cleaner edge. you'll use a sharp mainly, a ballpoint for materials that you don't want to be cut(a fuzzy edge around the embroidery).


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

MURRAY said:


> brother is basically tajima


And what are you basing this on? Most of the Brother machines can read DST formats but predominantly use PES format. Not sure about the larger machines but the smaller ones that most people use like the PR600 series are nothing like Tajima machines.


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

And what I'm basing it on is what I see mostly in the field which are single and three head machines that don't read anything but DST. PR600 is a home machine.


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

okay, now this one I am lost, I have made this 100% by hand went over everything before I embroidered everything came out great except the border on the left and right... the top and bottom are perfect, but the left and right has a space in between. Please see the attachments one is the file in pes see if you see any error (zip file) and then the other is the picture of the gap.


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

Gaps like that are usually caused by insufficient stabilizer, no underlay stitching, or incorrect pull compensation.

Ok I opened the file and your problem is no underlay stitching. You need to stabilize the fabric by using a underlay stitch. You also have no pull compensation applied to the different objects.


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

i had no underlay stitch, ill have to read up on that thanks.


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

ryanb4614 said:


> i had no underlay stitch, ill have to read up on that thanks.


Most embroidery programs have a setting for auto underlay also you need to use a min of .2mm of pull compensation.

I noticed that you used a 0 degree stitch angle on the green red and white fill stitches. This is not a problem but when you do that you need to increase the pull compensation. 

As the machine sews the design it pulls in the direction of the stitch angle. If everything is using the same angle then it compounds the affect of the pull requiring greater pull compensation.

You are using a stitch spacing of 4mm and a length of .45mm You will achieve a better looking design by setting these values to 3.5mm on the stitch spacing and .4mm on the stitch length.

The satin stitch on your border is set at .4mm try setting this to between .35 and .37 You will get better looking designs. The trick on a satin border is the wider the stitch the smaller the stitch spacing needs to be. 

Don't just accept the default settings play around with it and see what works best for you.


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

for stitch length, i am not sure where to set this, in the fill i find stitch values, there is Stitch Spacing= .4 Stitch Length= 4.0 Minimum Stitch length=.40... is this what u are talking about I can only find this on the fill not on the satin. Thanks for the input! I wish there was some how to save these settings so i dont have to keep goingb ack into it...


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

Sorry it should have said stitch spacing .4mm
and stitch length 3.5mm


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

Where did you get your Wilcom? Perhaps they could provide you some training? When I bought mine they gave me 5 days of training at their Atlanta office.


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## ryanb4614 (Jan 23, 2010)

it came with the embroidery machine I got off ebay.. theres no tutorial disc, ill contact the seller and see if he has one, thanks for the info


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

Learning to digitize is a painful process when you are trying to teach yourself. What you can do, I'd bet, if you are willing to upgrade your Wilcom to the current version and pay the conversion is get training from Wilcom. If you paid the upgrade fee to Wilcom they would probably allow you to come to Atlanta and take their classes.


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## SickPuppy (Aug 10, 2009)

Digitizing is not hard you just need to learn all of the trade secrets for producing professional embroidery designs. All Wilcom is going to do is teach you the basics you will still have a lot to learn after that.


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## myfinishingtouch (Nov 21, 2009)

What Wilcom will teach them is how to use the tools available to them in Wilcom 65. That's the software I use and I was self-taught for about 6 months before going down for the training and I learned a lot while I was down there. If someone doesn't understand how the software can automatically place underlay or how to adjust it then they could use some help. 

But you're right in that the basic process of digitizing isn't too difficult you just need to get some practice ... and watch your designs sew out on the machine so you can see what does and doesn't work.


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## MURRAY (Jan 19, 2010)

column width for satin is in properties/ fill stitch/effects / others-.


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