# cymk & quik seps



## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

hey all, i just purchased my quikseps software about 2 weeks ago and im barely getting to use it. For those who do cymk i would like to know, is cymk when you print color on top of another color and they blend to make the desired color or is cymk just wet on wet without the inks ever mixing/touching. I've only printed either one color jobs or 2 color jobs im assuming spot color process. I print for example a name in black with a red border around the name. well im looking to learn and start printing more advanced thats why i purchased quickseps. I read that its good for begginers, and well i kinda know how to do what the software does manually but i figured it would also be a faster way to get the results. Well im assuming its for cymk, but what exactly is a white underbase? When doing cymk is their special ink you have to use???


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

CMYK printing does require specific inks, they are more translucent then average inks. Be aware that each manufacturer makes slightly different pigments, they should supply color profiles for them.

printing CMYK, you can use different methods but the most common is wet on wet. Flashing a between a color creates a different effect. It's always best to account for tests on the setup for best results.

I don't use quickseps or any automated software, the results just don't compare to a skilled experienced separation artist.


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## Jimmytees (May 29, 2009)

CMYK printing is just about 100% dependant upon process inks mixing with one another on press to get the desired results. Process inks are transparent, therefore are intended to mix with each other. And yes, you do need process inks to print CMYK jobs. Union Ink trutone process colors work well. I'm surprised you have to ask "what is a white underbase"? An underbase is required on non-white shirts and I think the dude that wrote Quikseps recommends it for all CMYK jobs which is probably a very good idea.

As far as better results without using separation software, that's not for most. Process jobs usually print dark, muddy and are difficult to control if not separated by someone that "really" knows their craft. You'll most likely need software to get acceptable results.

Just remember that process inks are for process CMYK jobs only. All other kinds of jobs use standard plastisols.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

Jimmytees said:


> An underbase is required on non-white shirts and I think the dude that wrote Quikseps recommends it for all CMYK jobs which is probably a very good idea.


Using a white under base on white will make the process colors brighter, as they are sitting on a gloss white base and not the mat white fabric. This can be very beneficial for some designs but often CMYK is done to save costs over simulated process and or index because of the number of screens.




Jimmytees said:


> Just remember that process inks are for process CMYK jobs only. All other kinds of jobs use standard plastisols.


This is true, however don't hesitate to use a process ink for a spot job if using a white under base. I've had client want vibrant colors but not neon, CMYK inks are very vibrant when printed on a white base and if you need a vibrant cyan, yellow or magenta, those inks give very bright vibrant results.
If you understand the properties of the ink it's good to try different things to see the results.


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## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

I now have a better understanding i have also been watching alot of videos and it seems as though its a difficult process but im willing to give it a try. Thanks alot for the info and yea i kinda new about the white underbase. Idk i must have gotten my words confused when i wrote my question. Thanks though.


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## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

one last question. is it a must to use a 305 mesh and does your artwork require halftone for cmyk or it doesnt matter if you have halftone or not. What squeegy is best the 80 or 70?


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## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

was purchasing quikseps a bad buy.


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## out da box (May 1, 2007)

Willie, the only time you _won't_ need halftones is flat spot colors. Everything else is going to require a rip or ghostscript to output halftones or a post script laser printer.
Or using the bitmap halftone function in photoshop- which requires finesse and trial and error...
Quick seps is good, and you can learn a lot from watching it work. I have it and use parts of it. Like Red said, there is no substitute for knowing what you're doing and doing it manually- the program can't touch a human.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

williekid said:


> was purchasing quikseps a bad buy.


as a beginner, no, you can learn allot from seeing what it does, probably better for simulated process, CMYK really doesn't take much once you understand how the process works. You've basically given yourself a big head start ;]


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

williekid said:


> one last question. is it a must to use a 305 mesh and does your artwork require halftone for cmyk or it doesnt matter if you have halftone or not. What squeegy is best the 80 or 70?


305 is not a must, with that mesh you can use finer halftone dot and the screen will capture it (if exposed properly).

Are you using a manual press or automatic? 305 is more for automatics as it's much tougher to print through. When i did cmyk on a manual press we used 280 mesh, our designs were done at 300ppi, outputed with 55lpi.
we used different angles for each color at that time but after reading the articles discussing using same angles i'd want to try that technique (i believe the angle most often used is 21 or 22 for all colors).


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## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

I am using a manual press. Just a four color/one station but i really plan on getting either a 4 color 4 station or 6 color 4 station really soon maybe within the next month or so. Riley Hopkins from ryonet. I bought the quikseps because i liked what i saw on video and i figured i could try some of tht stuff to advance my printing, plus i read that it was good for begginers and could take you where you are trying to go alot faster but that you will still need to do some editing yourself. Little by little im understanding and learning. As for halftones im using a epson 1400 and i already know about using the bitmap funtion in photoshop, im just not sure if thats enough. ive seen videos on it just havent tried it but i will this weekend. But i think just not to waste time i will be purchasing accurip and a ciss with all black ink. It will work correct? And when you say 22 you mean your angle at 21 or 22 degress? well thanks for the info i hope to buy the ink and screens i need soon and hopefully ill be on my way with advanced printing. What squeegy would be best to use a 80 or 70.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

williekid said:


> And when you say 22 you mean your angle at 21 or 22 degrees?


yes, the out put angle for each color. i haven't tried the method using 21-22 degrees but from what i've read the results seem really good.

regarding the squeegee, you will want a hard squeegee with a sharp blade. i don't recall what we were using on our manual press, but they were definitely hard squeegees. you want minimal ink coverage, a soft squeegee will be harder to control the ink deposit with.


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## williekid (Apr 22, 2009)

well the hardest i can get is a 80 and i suppose this will work. thanks alot for the info.


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## redskin15 (Dec 8, 2009)

hi guys i have acquired a quikseps i have some few questions about the software and about t-shirt printing i've always wanted to learn t-shirt printing and im kinna doing it self study by watching videos and also reading forums like this.. and i believe you guys will be a great help to a new guy like me...

1.) im planning to print designs like animals and human realistically what are the best process for this???
2.) with designs like this when out putting to film does halftone really required?
3.) with quickseps when i tried to explore it and came up with halftone and when trying to print it on film the "screen" is not applicable where you can adjust the lpi/dpi and degrees does this mean its already pre set and ready to print?
4.) unlike when im done with the separation and trying to print it the "screen function" is working and you can adjust it to proper settings...im kinna wondering printer has something to do with this it should come with rip? 
5.) im really confused with quikseps if have like animal design since i believe its a mulit color job as soon as i was able to "Go Seps" , can i immediately proceed to outputting it to film and make the necessary adjustment??? or i should i halftone it?? 
6.) when is halftone necessary??? 

thanks guys im looking forward to your response for it will be a great help for me.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

1) Index, Simulated process and lastly 4color process.

2)Both simulated and four color process require the use of halftones.

3)i don't use quickseps but i'm guessing if they don't give you the options then they are preset in the software

4)no clue as i don't use quickseps

5)no clue as i don't use quickseps

6) Halftones are necessary for smooth gradients


GraphicFX have a great section of their website explaining the different methods of printing FAQ -=> Screenprinting


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## redskin15 (Dec 8, 2009)

when you say 4 color process is it like the cmyk???

so halftones are not applicable with spot color???

many thanks


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

redskin15 said:


> when you say 4 color process is it like the cmyk???
> 
> so halftones are not applicable with spot color???
> 
> many thanks


ya, CMYK = 4 color process


you can use halftones in a spot color separations, but it's not "necessary"


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## redskin15 (Dec 8, 2009)

thanks red for the help...

for more understanding of my learning process

i have posted designs of shirt sample that i've pulled from the net which im planning and really wanted to print (e.g animal designs)


*my question is with this kind of designs...*

_*with these raw pic, do i need to halftone it first??*_











_*1.) with sample t-shirt pics ive pulled from the net, are these halftone process when separated or outputted in the film???
2.) what are the ideal mesh for this kind of designs, manual???
3.) can i use cmyk (4color) with these???*_

*shirt finish product sample pulled from the net..*



































many thanks again...


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

the halftoning is most often the last step of the separation, often a RIP is used when outputting the film to handle the halftone patterns.

the ideal mesh to use on a manual for this type of work, i'd suggest 280s (200 for underbase)

the majority of those designs are done with simulated process and/or index. You could use CMYK process but it doesn't compare to a simulated process or index print in my opinion.


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

I think these designs require a simulated process with at least 6 colors maybe 8 with an underbase....cmyk with a underbase will be ok..but a sim process will look a ton better...but at the minimum this design will be a 5 color sim job.......

also I have printed cmyk on white shirts using the same screen angle of 22.5 and the print came out good.....but tight registration is a must, if 1 color doesnt fit perfect with the other colors you will get a moire...so make sure your press can handle tight registration and your screens need to be tight as well.

Inked


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## yeng (Apr 10, 2010)

yes. Friends tell you about your question. This inks are translucent inks then you can work with them depending on your program to use.

Greetings


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## redskin15 (Dec 8, 2009)

wow thanks for the answers it is really a great help....


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## binjoder (Apr 29, 2014)

InkedApparel said:


> I think these designs require a simulated process with at least 6 colors maybe 8 with an underbase....cmyk with a underbase will be ok..but a sim process will look a ton better...but at the minimum this design will be a 5 color sim job.......
> 
> also I have printed cmyk on white shirts using the same screen angle of 22.5 and the print came out good.....but tight registration is a must, if 1 color doesnt fit perfect with the other colors you will get a moire...so make sure your press can handle tight registration and your screens need to be tight as well.
> 
> Inked


for screen printing using same angle 22.5 do you need tension meter for stretching and overcome moire effect or you stretch and tension your screens without tension meter ? and do you flash in between or wet on wet?


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