# JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited (with photos)



## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

_[I realize there is already an old thread by Chani when she discovered that JPSS could be peeled cold, but this is a little different.]
_
First off, holla if anybody else out there has given JPSS cold peel a try. 

Sometimes I have issues with transfers where the design has a lot of black ink and I can't figure out where the problem lies. Sometimes it will look fine; sometimes it will have minuscule spots where the ink doesn't transfer; and sometimes it will transfer so badly that the shirt can't be redeemed by a fabric marker.

So yesterday I decided to give cold peel another try. I could see a slight ghosting on the paper but all of the ink transferred. As stated in Chani's thread the hand is unbelievably smooth, but the polymer almost has a waxy look (obviously this is why it is smooth to the touch). If I remember correctly, Chani did a wash test on the cold-peel and unfortunately the transfer cracked slightly – a problem we determined came from not being able to stretch the shirt immediately after pressing.

Stay with me because here's where I tried something new ...

After peeling the JPSS cold I put the shirt back on the press, covered it with parchment paper (Teflon sheet would work also), re-pressed for 8 seconds, and _then_ stretched it. It looked great. The hand? Well, it seems to be slightly better than straight-up peeling hot.

Anybody else tried this? Hopefully I will have time to do a wash test today so stay tuned .....


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## TransferThis (May 6, 2008)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

I know not many agree with the cold peel but that is the way I use my JPSS. It works great every time and so far I have not experienced any cracking. I'm gonna try your way for the purpose of a softer hand. Thanks for the tip!


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## R1Lover (Jun 7, 2008)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

I will give this a try too, thanks for the tip


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



TransferThis said:


> It works great every time and so far I have not experienced any cracking.


Actually I just went back and re-read the original thread about cracking with cold-peel and it was because she washed it in cold water. She had good results washing it in hot water. My bad ... my memory is not so good.



> I'm gonna try your way for the purpose of a softer hand.


It's definitely not as soft as the cold peel, but it was softer than the hot peel. I'm pretty sure it's because the shirt fibers don't get all jacked up during the original peel.

I am interested to see if there is any difference in color once washed. The test shirt is in the dryer right now so I will be back with photos/results later .....


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

Now you've got me thinking, Rhonda. I think you're right when you saw the "gritty" feel, that's what I call it, that happens right after a hot peel is from the fibers getting all jacked up D) when peeling. 

I do the stretch and re-press, and I always felt like the re-press helped smooth things out a bit.... but, I peel my teflon hot after the re-press. Next time, I am going to try to let my teflon cool before peeling next time, see what happens. It's similar in theory to your idea (and literally born of it) just done a little differently. I'll let you know if I get a smoother hand as well with that experiment. 

Thanks for bringing this up again, and for taking it all a step further. I really miss the smooth silky hand of Ironall (nothing else, haha), and if you've got us back on the road of getting a smooth hand with JPSS {{big hugs}} because I always wished for that with JPSS. Then, JPSS would be 'perfect'. (To me.)


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

Here we go ...

I guess I should start by saying that I used Gildan 100% Ultra Cotton.

The transfer was split diagonally and I did not trim it at all.

The top part was peeled hot and stretched while the bottom part was *peeled cold*, *pressed again*, and then stretched.

The shirt was washed for 20 minutes in hot water and then dried on high heat for 80 minutes. It was washed and dried along with towels and other clothes so it really took a beating.

(Sorry about the color difference between the pre- and post-wash photos, but I took them at different times during the day.)

Here's what the paper looked like after pressing:










Here's what both looked like before washing/drying:










_ (see the little white dot by the 'r' in the photo below? That's where the ink didn't transfer during the hot peel ... which is the whole reason behind this exercise. )_









Here's what both looked like after washing/drying:



















After washing/drying both appear a little faded because of the white cotton fibers sticking up through the transfer, so there is really no difference visually ...

BUT the hand of the cold peel is definitely softer than the hot peel.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



Girlzndollz said:


> Next time, I am going to try to let my teflon cool before peeling next time, see what happens. It's similar in theory to your idea (and literally born of it) just done a little differently. I'll let you know if I get a smoother hand as well with that experiment.


That's interesting, Kelly ... I never thought of doing that!

I have also been peeling hot and then re-pressing with a Teflon sheet – which does help with the hand – but my biggest issue is wasting shirts and transfer paper because all of the ink doesn't transfer sometimes.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

I never thought of that either, you made me think of it... 

I don't think I can see a difference on the hot and cold peel this time. I think in the last this was tried, we could see a waxy film in the pics. I see literally nothing that I think I can detect in these pics. 

I wonder if Chani had more success with the hot wash, bc it heated the transfer up again and the washing machine action gently pulled it while it was hot..???? 

Doesn't really matter, it's just a curious thought, looks like you are cracking the case on Cold Peel, nice work Detective. 

Pfft, I recently had a banding issue from heck with my c88, and used about 8 pieces of JPSS for one shirt trying to solve it. Wierdest thing was it didn't show on plain paper, only JPSS - thank you very much. The amount of ink I used was unbearable. I was literally having mind melt trying to figure out how to avoid anymore waste. I do hope this solves your issues with losing supplies. After a while, will you let me know if it turned out to be the answer for you?


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



Girlzndollz said:


> I don't think I can see a difference on the hot and cold peel this time. I think in the last this was tried, we could see a waxy film in the pics. I see literally nothing that I think I can detect in these pics.


Right! The second pressing gets rid of the waxy film. I'm not really sure if it melts into the shirt or if it transfers to the cover sheet, but it definitely goes away.



> Pfft, I recently had a banding issue from heck with my c88, and used about 8 pieces of JPSS for one shirt trying to solve it. Wierdest thing was it didn't show on plain paper, only JPSS - thank you very much.


LOL ... that figures!!!!! 



> After a while, will you let me know if it turned out to be the answer for you?


Will do ... I'm thinking I will continue with this extra step – at least with the designs that have lots of black – as those are the ones I have the most problems with.


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## rodsps (Mar 12, 2008)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

I just have a quick question here.
When you mention "cold" peel just what is cold.
Is it waiting a few seconds or actually removing the garment and letting it cool a minute or so.
Reason for asking?
My JPSS that is in rolls from Coastal will not cold peel, this stuff is fused right back together.


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## dynamicdesynz (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



rodsps said:


> I just have a quick question here.
> When you mention "cold" peel just what is cold.
> Is it waiting a few seconds or actually removing the garment and letting it cool a minute or so.
> Reason for asking?
> My JPSS that is in rolls from Coastal will not cold peel, this stuff is fused right back together.


HI, "Cold Peel" does in fact mean letting the transfer and shirt cool off after press. I really like the feel of cold peel on Jet Pro. I have gotten some cracking from this method as well as some close to perfect results. What I started to do was, use a warm peel instead of a complete cold peel. 
Let it be fully understood that Stretching the shirt before and after press makes a huge difference on "cracking". What I do is this:
1. Stretch the heck out of the shirt
2. Pre Press the entire shirt in sectiong for about 6 sec. each section. 
3. Fit my design where it needs to be placed with my T-Square It
4. Press for just about 30 sec at @ 375 degrees using me teflon over the shirt for the initial press.
5. Reamove the shirt and stand in front of the ac for about 15 seconds to allow the shirt to start cooling.
6. Instead of peeling off hte transfer, I grab the sides of the shirt and do a Second Stretch. This does 2 things for me. 1, it stretches the shirt again for the second press and it makes the paper lift away from the shirt. Very easy to remove.
7. I then position my shirt back under the press, smooth the transfer out and place a sheet of parchment paper over the entire design and repress for about 7-10 seconds. 
8. After the press I let the shirt cool down for about 15 sec, and peel the parchment paper away slowly beginning at one of the corner edges.
9. Stretch again and I'm good.. 
No fading and no Cracking


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

I haven't tried the cold peel method yet. Sounds like I need to.....


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Just be careful with it, John. It sounds like heating it a second time is the key to avoiding potentially disasterous wash results. 

Rhonda, is it all about the second heating? I see Terrence has a second heating in his process as well.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I'm not able to view the pics. .....JB


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

COEDS said:


> I'm not able to view the pics. .....JB


Kelly, I think it _is_ all about the second heating and the stretching. I'm going to try Terrence's method next time.

JB, I'm going to post the photos through the forum's upload system for you ....


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## stix (Feb 3, 2008)

Rhonda..

You have outdone yourself this time. I will try the repress tactic the next time i press shirts.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

stix said:


> Rhonda..
> 
> You have outdone yourself this time. I will try the repress tactic the next time i press shirts.


Well I don't know 'bout all that, Chris ... but thanks.  When you try it let us know what you think!


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Thanks Rhonda, The people on the forum benefit from oeach through our experimentation. Thanks for re posting the pics for me. ..... JB


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## flyingfig (May 28, 2008)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

_I do the stretch and re-press, and I always felt like the re-press helped smooth things out a bit.... but, I peel my teflon hot after the re-press. Next time, I am going to try to let my teflon cool before peeling next time, see what happens._

thanks for the tip on stretch and repress but wondering with the hot vs cold peel has anyone had the experience of the paper sticking to the fabric on cold peel as i have so needed to be warm to be removed?? when i tried with the cold to persist and continued to peel away it did not remove cleanly it stuck on like peeling away a label off a bottle where some of it remains and needs to be soaked or sratched off?? is it just that i am using cheap paper and an iron rather than JPSS with a press? thanks KT


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



flyingfig said:


> when i tried with the cold to persist and continued to peel away it did not remove cleanly it stuck on like peeling away a label off a bottle where some of it remains and needs to be soaked or sratched off?? is it just that i am using cheap paper and an iron rather than JPSS with a press? thanks KT


Cheap paper and iron are probably part of the problem, but also many transfer papers [for lights] cannot be peeled cold.


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## kysportsxchange (Apr 30, 2008)

I used this method today !!! unreal compared to hot peeling !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I presses at 375 med pressure, 5 min cold peel, then pressed with teflon for 8 seconds.

I am impressed !!! wish I had known this before !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

kysportsxchange said:


> I used this method today !!! unreal compared to hot peeling !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I presses at 375 med pressure, 5 min cold peel, then pressed with teflon for 8 seconds.
> 
> I am impressed !!! wish I had known this before !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


 Mike, what do you think about the hand?


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## kysportsxchange (Apr 30, 2008)

love it, much smoother and softer ..


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## mariehutch (Feb 5, 2008)

kysportsxchange said:


> I used this method today !!! unreal compared to hot peeling !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I presses at 375 med pressure, 5 min cold peel, then pressed with teflon for 8 seconds.
> 
> I am impressed !!! wish I had known this before !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


How long did yoyu press the first time ?


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## kysportsxchange (Apr 30, 2008)

30 seconds on 100% cotton, 25 seconds on 50/50 using a an older Hix 400


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## eAZie (Aug 7, 2008)

hey rhonda, so does the repress for cold peel alleviate the problem with cracking when washed cold for the FIRST wash??

just curious as i now have my equipment and have printed a few shirts. i definitely like the feel of the cold peel better. i am prepressing, pressing image at 375 for 30 seconds, allowing to cool, peeling, repressing with teflon for 8-10 seconds, then stretching. am i missing anything? 

what was the concensus on removing the teflon after second press. should i remove it warm or allow it to cool. seems like if i wait and remove the teflon cold then i won't be able to get a good stretch in before the image itself cools. i have noticed that after repressing (cold peeled), upon removing the teflon while warm, some of the image is on the teflon. is this unavoidable? its not a huge deal, cause that ink wipes off with a paper towel and a little elbow grease.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

eAZie said:


> hey rhonda, so does the repress for cold peel alleviate the problem with cracking when washed cold for the FIRST wash??


Yes it seems to alleviate that problem. For what it's worth, here is my theory ... when you cold-peel and don't do anything afterwards it has that waxy feel because of the polymer, right? I think this is what causes the major cracking when washed cold. Plus you can't stretch the shirt if it's cold-peeled – and I'm pretty sure the stretching when hot helps the ink get into the shirt grooves better ... and it definitely helps with cracking.



> just curious as i now have my equipment and have printed a few shirts. i definitely like the feel of the cold peel better. i am prepressing, pressing image at 375 for 30 seconds, allowing to cool, peeling, repressing with teflon for 8-10 seconds, then stretching. am i missing anything?


If you are missing anything, let me know because this is exactly what I do (expect I press @ 400º). 



> what was the concensus on removing the teflon after second press. should i remove it warm or allow it to cool. seems like if i wait and remove the teflon cold then i won't be able to get a good stretch in before the image itself cools. i have noticed that after repressing (cold peeled), upon removing the teflon while warm, some of the image is on the teflon. is this unavoidable? its not a huge deal, cause that ink wipes off with a paper towel and a little elbow grease.


On the re-press I remove the Teflon immediately and I have also noticed some of the print transfers – as does some of the clear polymer. I don't think it's a problem because like you said you can wipe it off.


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## moffett8 (Jun 26, 2008)

How about using something besides JPSS. I use a different brand that costs less than JPSS and don't have cracking problems. Allot say they like JPSS but they have problems with it, so why do you like it?

Philip


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

moffett8 said:


> How about using something besides JPSS. I use a different brand that costs less than JPSS and don't have cracking problems. Allot say they like JPSS but they have problems with it, so why do you like it?
> 
> Philip


I can't speak for everybody but I've tried several other transfer papers (CASI/QLT, TransJet II and IronAll) and in my opinion JPSS is the best compromise between hand and durability I have found.

What are you using? If you've found something good, don't be keeping no secrets from us!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

queerrep said:


> ......On the re-press I remove the Teflon immediately and I have also noticed some of the print transfers – as does some of the clear polymer. I don't think it's a problem because like you said you can wipe it off.


Hey Rhonda,

I thought that the "polymer" protected the ink on the shirt.....?
So...If some of it "lifts off" during this second press, won't the ink be "less protected"??

also..... Have you tried silicon parchment paper instead of Teflon?
_(sorry if this has been asked already)_


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> Hey Rhonda,
> 
> I thought that the "polymer" protected the ink on the shirt.....?
> So...If some of it "lifts off" during this second press, won't the ink be "less protected"??


Hey Mrs. B. It does, but no more comes off onto the Teflon than is left on the backing sheet when I do a hot-peel.



> also..... Have you tried silicon parchment paper instead of Teflon?
> _(sorry if this has been asked already)_


Occasionally I use some paper that came with some opaque transfers I don't use ... looks like tracing paper almost so I'm not sure exactly what it is.


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## SignzPlus (Sep 4, 2008)

Ok, I am new at printing t-shirts w/ pigment ink and a heatpress can you answer a few questions....


After I print the file on JPSS paper - and before placing this on the heatpress - you say to stretch the tee ( *how do you stretch the shirt? *) - I then heatpress the shirt - I remove the shirt and restetch the shirt and then let shirt stand for 5 minutes. I then peel the paper off and repress the shirt w/ teflon paper *( for how long ) *and then restetch again??? Thanks in advance for the replies ....

Juice


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

queerrep said:


> Occasionally I use some paper that came with some opaque transfers I don't use ... looks like tracing paper almost so I'm not sure exactly what it is.


 
I've heard re-pressing with that opaque backer paper can give the image a nice shine, like when using DazzleTrans... have you noticed this happening with the JPSS, Rhonda?

The person was actually re-pressing opaques with the backer paper when they said it gives it a shine. Does anything happen with JPSS? 

Thanks!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

SignzPlus said:


> After I print the file on JPSS paper - and before placing this on the heatpress - you say to stretch the tee ( *how do you stretch the shirt? *)


By hand, just give it a gentle stretch to open the weave. Not to pull the shirt out of shape.



> I then heatpress the shirt - I remove the shirt and restetch the shirt and then let shirt stand for 5 minutes.


No, next you "Pre-press" the shirt for about 5 to 7 seconds, to remove the moisture from the fabric.




> I then heatpress the shirt - I remove the shirt and restetch the shirt and then let shirt stand for 5 minutes.


Yes, next you heat press the transfer. I believe Rhonda is Not stretching it at this time. Just letting it cool for 5 minutes. 





> I then peel the paper off and repress the shirt w/ teflon paper *( for how long ) *and then restetch again??? Thanks in advance for the replies ....
> 
> Juice


 


queerrep said:


> After peeling the JPSS cold I put the shirt back on the press, covered it with parchment paper (Teflon sheet would work also), re-pressed for 8 seconds, and _then_ stretched it. It looked great.


Rhonda and Mike are re-pressing for 8 seconds with great results.


Good luck to you...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Mike and Rhonda, will you let us know how the longer term wash tests are going? Thank you so much.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Mike and Rhonda, will you let us know how the longer term wash tests are going? Thank you so much.


Please post the results, I'm very interested and I know many others are too. .... JB


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> I've heard re-pressing with that opaque backer paper can give the image a nice shine, like when using DazzleTrans... have you noticed this happening with the JPSS, Rhonda?


I've heard that, too ... but I haven't noticed that with JPSS.


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## queerrep (Jul 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Mike and Rhonda, will you let us know how the longer term wash tests are going? Thank you so much.





COEDS said:


> Please post the results, I'm very interested and I know many others are too. .... JB


 I haven't even thought about washing that shirt again because it was a scrap shirt.  But I will later this week!


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## cbell442 (Oct 20, 2008)

I have had a problem with alot of the picture staying on the backing when I hot peel, which leaves holes in the picture & a rough feel. (It is not just a shadow of the picture on the backing, but actual dots of ink left on the backing.) Repressing helped smooth the feel, but the holes remain because they are from where the ink stuck to the backing. I tried different temps/times/ pressures & found 380 for 35 sec with a very firm pressure worked the best, but the results were still not great. So I decided to try the cold peel. I used 375 for 30 sec with a firm pressure, like the directions state, & the initial peel didn't leave any ink on the backing paper & the feel was very smooth. When I repressed for 8 sec using parchment paper, stretched the shirt & removed the paper hot, I had the same problem of the ink sticking to the paper & leaving tiny holes in the picture, although it wasn't quite as bad. Also, the feel was rough again.

I'm using inkjetcarts heat transfer ink, the picture was definitely dry, I stretch the shirt before putting on the press & prepressed for 10 sec.

Does anyone else have this problem of so much ink staying on the backing? Any suggestions? Could it be a problem with the paper? 

Also, the clear areas look a little yellow like the clear substance on the paper (polymer?) is possibly scorching a little? (Not as bad at 375/30/firm as compared to 380/35/xfirm.) Anybody else have this problem?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Carolyn...

Sorry to hear of your problem with the pinholes in the ink. I do get pinholes once in a while, just one or so here and there, and I fill them in with pigment ink fabric markers. I do not run into that issue on any big or wide scale. I've seen where more heat and pressure did get better results. Rhonda presses at 400*F... why not try that setting? Press temps can vary from the dial setting.. it can't hurt to try again. Also, have you tried a different brand of shirt?

One thing I would like to ask you is where did you buy your paper?

The reason I ask is because of the ''yellowing'' of the clear part (polymer). Someone else is having this trouble. They are working with the supplier in a thread. The supplier is working with Neenah the mfg. If you bought from the same place (tshirtsupplies.com) then you can let them know you are also experiencing the yellow trouble.

Regardless of where you bought it, please let me link you up to the thread where the yellowing is being dealt with. You can let them know you also experience this, and follow along for the resolution. If you bought from a different supplier, it might be a good idea to contact whoever sold you the paper. 

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t72416.html


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## cmac34 (Dec 27, 2008)

JPSS cold peel [no re-press] washed at 40°C cotton settings and dried hot. Navy print on 100% cotton pink shirt. Hand is invisible, polymer [of course] still visible close up where I trimmed but not noticibly so when worn.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f6/kg666666/Picture-017.jpg


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## freshlysqueezed (Jun 6, 2010)

The pinholes are because of fibers try lint rolling!


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## cbell442 (Oct 20, 2008)

I got my pinhole problem fixed. The directions state to peel immediately & that means as soon as you lift the press. I was moving the shirt to a table before peeling & that short time allowed the JPSS to cool enough that it was sticking to the backing & pulling off of the shirt, thus leaving the pinholes. I now peel while the shirt is on the press right after I raise the press & no longer have pinholes.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

cbell442 said:


> I got my pinhole problem fixed. The directions state to peel immediately & that means as soon as you lift the press. I was moving the shirt to a table before peeling & that short time allowed the JPSS to cool enough that it was sticking to the backing & pulling off of the shirt, thus leaving the pinholes. I now peel while the shirt is on the press right after I raise the press & no longer have pinholes.


 
So happy that you figured out what it was. 

Yep, if one waits too long to peel JPSS it sticks to the shirt like crazy and some of the design gets peeled off with the backer.

You can also grab your shirt on both sides and stretch it, that will make the JPSS sheet "pop/lift" off of the shirt. (do this as soon as you open your press)
(I use this method when my fingers can't take the heat of "peeling immediately")


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## etgser (Feb 19, 2009)

I tried it last night cold peel feels great on 50/50 thanks for this post


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

etgser said:


> I tried it last night cold peel feels great on 50/50 thanks for this post


 
Thanks for reminding me. 

I guess I should have added that to my post above. 
"unless you let it cool _completely_...a.k.a. Cold Peel"


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

A great way to peel the shirt after it has cooled and won't let the backer paper go is to just "re-hit" it with the hot press again. Warm up the shirt, peel the backer paper.


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## moroni00 (Jun 10, 2011)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*

I need Help... i'm really new in t-shirt printing.... I don't know what is the Cold press and the Hot press... I'm just starting t-shirt printing.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited*



moroni00 said:


> I need Help... i'm really new in t-shirt printing.... I don't know what is the Cold press and the Hot press... I'm just starting t-shirt printing.


It's "Hot Peel" and "Cold Peel". It reflects the method in which you pull the backing paper off of the pressed shirt. Hot would be while it is still hot, and cold is after it has cooled down. Different papers have different methods and some can do both.


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## bullheadedmay (Jul 15, 2011)

Hi Queerrep can u tell me how long you waited before washing these? Also I am new to the tshirt printing so my other question is: Am I supposed to wash each shirt before shipping to ensure it doesnt crack? Please advise. Thanks.


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