# New CLC DuraCottonHT Report



## CoolTech

I Received my DuraCottonHT order today, and was itching to try it. I documented my work with the released product here. The original thread is getting long, and it was time to start a new one with the release of HT.

*INTRO*

I was excited to see the mail box lid slightly up when I arrived home this evening. I had pre-ordered DuraCottonHT to use with my Okidata C3200 Laser Printer. I received and used the original test sample (2 sheets), and was impressed with the quick prints I made there, so I was more than excited to get to work with this released product.

*PRINTER, BACKGROUND AND SETUP*

Printer - Okidata C3200N color laser printer
Toner - OEM toner (still the original toner that came with the printer in January)
Design Software - CorelDraw x3
Shirts – Haines Beefy (6.1 oz) Tag less, Grey

Three attempts will be made with the same design and various differences in settings, etc.

*PRINTING THE DESIGN*


I have a mock up that I was working on for a fitness group (freebie) to which I am a member. The mock up was started yesterday, and finished when I got home this evening and made a couple of tweaks that others suggested.












I have created a “DuraCottonHT” setting in my print dialog:












Print from the multi Purpose Tray, Medium weight – Notice the drive settings are saved as “DuraCottonHT”

I ganged some images to fill the printable area:











Next, I proceeded to print the three I would be working with.

All the printing went without a hitch. So far, DuraCottonHT worked better than any other paper I tested with my Oki C3200 (all other papers I have tried jammed on either print #2, or print #3 without exception)

*CHANGES I MADE TO THE INSTRUCTIONS*

DuraCottonHT boasts that it does not need trimming and will produce a soft hand from full sheet pressing.

I decided to trim one sheet to moderate trim for testing:










The second sheet, I only trimmed off the ganged images:










The third sheet was a worded sheet I created and sent to the printer at the same time I sent the double print job. The third sheet had a crease in the paper, but I wanted to see what would happen with a sheet that was not pristine:









Right along the crease line, I lost some toner coverage, but I decided to use it anyway and see how things came out.

The instructions for HT state that results are better when you do not pre-press. I’m sorry, this is Florida. All the shirts here are damp to a degree. To handle this issue, I pre-pressed the shirts while the press was heating to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and moved the shirts off the press to cool before application

*Instructions for DuraCottonHT with my Okidata C3200 printer:*
- Don’t preheat garment, results are better without preheating
- Press the “DuraCottonHT” print to Cotton or 50/50 fabric for 12-20 seconds, at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, using Medium to Heavy pressure, (40-60 psi)
- Wait 2-3 seconds and peel evenly
- For even softer results, press again for 6-12 seconds using Teflon and hot peel
- When finished, if done correctly, surface should feel like cotton and there should be very little toner left on the carrier page. Transfer should peel like butter

*Troubleshooting Instructions:*
Transfer won’t peel or peels but pulls at the fabric
- Raise temperature by 5 degrees F and press again for 3-5 seconds.
- Repeat until you find the optimal setting for your heat press, (all heat presses have temperature variations)
- Add pressure and or time to your pressing
Always test on unwashed, throw-away fabric, not on an expensive garment
Scorching occurs on garment
- It is always prudent to use a Teflon sheet over the garment to protect it from scorching. 
- All heat presses are not of identical quality. If yours is an inexpensive press, it is very likely that there is uneven or inconsistent heat distribution which can lead to scorching

*PRESSING RESULTS*

The first press I made was on the trimmed image at 400 degrees F for 14 seconds (I think my pressure was lighter than it should have been). Here is the result of press #1

















I did not increase pressure, reheat and reapply to attempt image transfer (as the troubleshooting section of the instructions state). I wanted to see what the image was going to be from that press at that temperature, for that time and pressure without reheating. It did not peel like butter, and as you can see, too much ink is left on the paper

The second press I made was on the image that was trimmed only to rid it of the ganged images. The press was set at 405 degrees F for 16 seconds with some increased pressure (Again, I don’t think I had enough pressure to get to 40-60 psi)

















Again, I did not increase pressure, reheat and reapply to attempt image transfer (Yes, the instructions were clear, and I knew what they were). I saw that this one was much better than the last. The heat was good and the time seemed to be good. I will adjust the pressure to a harder press on the third press.

The third press I made was on the image that was creased before printing. The press was set at 405 degrees F for 16 seconds with increased pressure over my second attempt (I feel like I was getting closer to the 40 psi recommended). I also changed shirts for this test. I went to the test bin and pulled out a Haines Heavyweight (5.6 oz) white 50/50 that was not preheated for this attempt.








I have circled the two areas where this image failed to press. I have also imposed the line of the crease onto the picture to show how the crease line and the two areas that failed to print coincide with each other









I have my fingers just to this side of the crease. Still, this attempt was a vast improvement for ink transfer over the other two attempts. The image peeled like butter, there was only trace ink left on the paper. Except for the two places noted, this is a sale-able shirt. The hand is soft, and there is only a trace to it, which will wash out in the first laundering



*AH, A **FORTH** ATTEMPT AT PRESSING*

Yes, I know I was only going to attempt three tonight, but I was encouraged by the third attempt and wanted to see if this was a fluke for the night, or if I had found MY combination to using this “wonder paper”… lol

The fourth press attempt I made was back to the Haines Beefy Ts (Tag less, 6.1 oz, Grey), but I grabbed one that I had not preheated. Settings for the Transfer press remained the same (405 degrees F and 16 seconds dwell). I did increase pressure again (But, I still don’t think I got to 40 psi. I will keep cranking it until I am truly satisfied that I have the right pressure)

The results from the fourth attempt were that I got a sale-able shirt with this pressing. The shirt has great color and a soft hand. Here is the fourth press attempt









Vibrant colors, peeled like butter and soft hand









Little ink left on the paper









A little closer view









No visible hand

*FIRST IMPRESSION*
I am excited about this new transfer paper. I like the way it looks, feels and transfers when I did it correctly. There is little, if any hand that will be eliminated with the first washing of the garment. 

The cost is OK. But, the savings over inkjet printing is tremendous! The colors are much better than an inkjet transfer. Since the ink is fused onto the paper, it will always come out with better colors than an inkjet can produce. 

DuraCottonHT should end up saving printers time and money in the long run!


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## binki

Nice post. Did you do the second pressing with the teflon? We did it with the duracotton98 and it eliminated the hand altogether. You really need to press the snot out of the shirt to get this stuff to transfer and at 400+F scorching could be an issue. Did you use the teflon sheet over the initial pressing?


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## CoolTech

I did not use teflon on the initial press. I did use it on each second pressing, and yes... the hand was eliminated with the second pressing every time


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## binki

CoolTech said:


> I did not use teflon on the initial press. I did use it on each second pressing, and yes... the hand was eliminated with the second pressing every time


Thanks for the info. The shirt looks great. 

I am keeping an eye on CompUSA stores that are closing for another laser printer. We have a KM3300 Magicolor but I really don't care for it. If I can pick up a nice one at a good price I will do it as they drop their prices over the next few weeks.


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## vlcnmstr

I'm keeping an eye on them too-- but they aren't all lowering prices the same.
One clerk said it depended on when that particular store started the "closing" process. another had the same printer in two different places at two VERY different prices -- on the order of a hundred dollars different.


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## Lnfortun

CoolTech said:


> I did not use teflon on the initial press. I did use it on each second pressing, and yes... the hand was eliminated with the second pressing every time


Very nice presentation. I am impressed.

Did you have to run 5 or 6 blank sheets through the printer before printing on HT as recommended by Autoart's instruction for some Oki models?

What paper type was selected in the printer setting itself? Was it Plain, bond, recycled, rough, transparency, etc? Or did even mess with paper type.

Luis.


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## CoolTech

lnfortun said:


> Very nice presentation. I am impressed.
> 
> Did you have to run 5 or 6 blank sheets through the printer before printing on HT as recommended by Autoart's instruction for some Oki models?
> 
> What paper type was selected in the printer setting itself? Was it Plain, bond, recycled, rough, transparency, etc? Or did even mess with paper type.
> 
> Luis.


The Okidata C3200 does not require running the blank sheets through first.

Paper type was medium (20-27 lbs)


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## CoolTech

*addendum*

Since I was working with the same basic layout...

I decided to give this one a try this morning. One shot

Changed printer output settings from medium (20-27 lbs) to standard, and print to fine, photo enhance

Changed press setting to heavy pressure

No preheat of garment:
---

























===

Ok, I am officially impressed (not that my opinion means anything... lol)

This shirt was printed with no pre-printing of paper to heat up the fuser, and no real special settings, other than fine printing with photo enhance.

(Oh, and I added "Flippy" to the image)


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## MYDAMIT

Very Nice Presentation And Very Nice Result! Do You Have Sample Picture That Already Been Washed.where Can I Buy This Duracotton?thanks


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## Ezekiel33Graphic

Very nice Jim!
Thank you for your time & effort!


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## edwin 98

I just had a call from a customer. He bought a OKI 3400 and was having problems with jamming. While he was on the phone with me he tried the glossey mode. It worked wonderfully. So if you use a OKI 3400 with DuraCotton HT make sure you are in the Glossey mode.

Edwin 98


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## thrivers

did anybody try the duracotton for sublimation because i have only inkjet epson printer and sublimation printer? do you have pictures of the test/s ?
thanks a lot guys!


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## Mystic

Loved the info, it is great to see the results on shirts and not just close ups. You can really see that there is no visible window or box with the HT. We tried the original durracotten and had the issue with the gray box on our Oki. We also have a Lexmark and have just tried a couple of sample sheets on it, no pics of yet but hopefully soon. 
Once again great job on the info!


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## CoolTech

MYDAMIT said:


> Very Nice Presentation And Very Nice Result! Do You Have Sample Picture That Already Been Washed.where Can I Buy This Duracotton?thanks


Wow! You guys don't waste any time... press... wash....  

Ok, I've had a chance to do the laundry...









Straight from the dryer just throwing it over something to snap this picture









The "Fold it over and show a hand" test - The only hand is mine (note: not the best of pictures... I am just holding them out. The actual shirt looks better than this image)









Again, the only hand is mine! (note: this is what the image actually looks like when viewed on the shirt in person)


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## basenji

Jim - thanks so much for sharing the results of your extensive testing. I am so close to deciding I want to switch to the OKI and duracotton HT from my current inkjet. My concern is the resolution for the laser printer vs. inket. I do almost 100% photo products. The photo part of your Jammin' Beach shirt looks good as far as I can tell. What's your opinion of this method for photos?


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## CoolTech

It's not a photo. It's a trace from a web wall paper that I copied, pasted, increased dpi of the image, edited down and traced


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## periscope

I have just done some photos on t-shirts using Duracotton OIL (formerly 98) on my Lexmark C510 and the results are superb. Bright, sharp colours.


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## basenji

Thanks, Ed. That's great to hear. Looks like I'll be joining the DuraCotton club.


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## Rodney

Hey Jim, I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed report on your duracottonht experience. The photos are a BIG help as well.

With the other duracotton thread getting so crowded, it's nice to see some clear information and results photos 

Thanks again!


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## CoolTech

Thanks!

I am a strong advocate of 3 party teaching. If you want to learn it better, attempt to teach it to someone, or write it down.
===

I have since, changed my settings for DuraCottonHT printing.

My settings for the C3200 are:

- Everything left at defaults, except for using the "Multi Purpose Tray"

Since making this change I have had nothing but success stories with DuraCottonHT.
===

Someone sent me a .bmp image for a logo recently (nice basic colors and fonts... gotta love those!). I was able to do a CorelDraw Trace, edit within 5 minutes, print it to DuraCottonHT and print it on a shirt. I took the picture and sent it to the person requesting a price.

When they saw that I put it on a shirt in the first hour, they bought 6 dozen shirts that night... All in the span of 2.5 hours
---
Yes, I am sold on DuraCottonHT!


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## Ross B

CoolTech said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I am a strong advocate of 3 party teaching. If you want to learn it better, attempt to teach it to someone, or write it down.


As an ex-teacher, I couldn't agree more, CoolTech. Probably the greatest lesson of teaching is that it is a two-way learning experience.


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## Rodney

How much did you pay for your Okidata 3200 may I ask?



> I am a strong advocate of 3 party teaching. If you want to learn it better, attempt to teach it to someone, or write it down.


Well put, in the past couple of years, I've learned exactly that...but never been able to explain it


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## CoolTech

Rodney said:


> How much did you pay for your Okidata 3200 may I ask?
> 
> 
> 
> Well put, in the past couple of years, I've learned exactly that...but never been able to explain it


I paid nothing... lol

That said, I should explain... My "other" business is "TECH" I repair computers, printer, etc.
===
I always add the 1-year (sometimes 2-3 year) replacemtent plan to printers. I have noted that printers fail more than any other product in the computer line. Because of this... I advocate printer replacement plans. I have not purchased a printer in eight years...

This current printer (OKI C3200) was a replacement for a Samsung CLP-510 that failed 1-year and 6-months after purchase, which was a replacement of a CLP-500 that failed after 1-year and 1-month, which was a replacement of ... (You get the idea). The replacement plan was $79.00 (So, basically, the printer cost $79.00 and the new replacement plan was $69.00 ... so the total printer cost is $148.00... with an option on a new printer at the replacement plan cost... Ken, what should be my next printer?...)
===

I do not advocate any other replacement plan for anything other than printers... lol
===


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## DuraCotton98

CoolTech said:


> I paid nothing... lol
> 
> That said, I should explain... My "other" business is "TECH" I repair computers, printer, etc.
> ===
> I always add the 1-year (sometimes 2-3 year) replacemtent plan to printers. I have noted that printers fail more than any other product in the computer line. Because of this... I advocate printer replacement plans. I have not purchased a printer in eight years...
> 
> This current printer (OKI C3200) was a replacement for a Samsung CLP-510 that failed 1-year and 6-months after purchase, which was a replacement of a CLP-500 that failed after 1-year and 1-month, which was a replacement of ... (You get the idea). The replacement plan was $79.00 (So, basically, the printer cost $79.00 and the new replacement plan was $69.00 ... so the total printer cost is $148.00... with an option on a new printer at the replacement plan cost... Ken, what should be my next printer?...)
> ===
> 
> I do not advocate any other replacement plan for anything other than printers... lol
> ===


Hi Jim:

Everyone is ravying about your t-shirts! Me - I am also ravying about your process. You have told the total story with a few words and several pictures. You have done a wonderful job for the benefit of all! 

Which printer? I prefer either the Oki 5500 or 5800 depending on your volume requirements. The toner is identical, both printers have the larger toner cartridge options (reducing the cost per print vs the Oki 3400). I have one image (Oki 5500, printed during Imprint Canada Show) now washed 21 times - I believe the color image will now outlast the fabric ('Alps-like' lasting color).

have a great one!


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## vlcnmstr

*color off?*

I got my small package of HT and made a transfer. 
Technically, it transfered wonderfully. peeled easy and the hand is good.
I am using the oki3400. 
My question isn't about the paper per se, but about the color. when printing on plain paper, the print is the color on the monitor -- or close enough for government work --- but printed on the ht, far deeper, yellow is more orange, light backgrounds are darker etc. I thought at first it might just be the way the transfer prints but then it transfered true to what printed. Very little left (ver light shadow) on paper after transfering.
If I get near the other computer tomorrow I will try for pictures. Is there a color adjustment I am missing? a profile I should load?
wnxp, corel x3, oki3400.
thanks


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## taurusndixie

Thanks CoolTech for such a great presentation.

Don


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## DuraCotton98

*Re: color off?*



vlcnmstr said:


> I got my small package of HT and made a transfer.
> Technically, it transfered wonderfully. peeled easy and the hand is good.
> I am using the oki3400.
> My question isn't about the paper per se, but about the color. when printing on plain paper, the print is the color on the monitor -- or close enough for government work --- but printed on the ht, far deeper, yellow is more orange, light backgrounds are darker etc. I thought at first it might just be the way the transfer prints but then it transfered true to what printed. Very little left (ver light shadow) on paper after transfering.
> If I get near the other computer tomorrow I will try for pictures. Is there a color adjustment I am missing? a profile I should load?
> wnxp, corel x3, oki3400.
> thanks


With the Oki printers, we have found a need to slightly adjust the color settings to run the DuraCotton papers. (All) Transfer papers tend to press deeper / darker colors. The color adjustments that we like are documented on the AutoART website autoartusa.com/DuraCotton_Heat_Transfer_Paper/Oki_Printing_TIPS_TRICKS.html

You may wish to further adjust to your requirements (everyone's eyes see color slightly different). We do not have third party profiles to load - we believe Oki's profiles are far better than any from a third-party.

Hope the above helps!

have a great one!


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## edwin 98

To All Thread Members:

Staples is selling the OKI 5500 for a net of $399.98 this includes a $200.00 instant rebate. The sale state Sunday 3/18/07 and goes through 3/31/07.

This is the best price on a OKI 5500.

Big Ed


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## yummymom007

*Re: color off?*

What are thepaper settings you use for the 3400? i have the same pinter....

amanda




vlcnmstr said:


> I got my small package of HT and made a transfer.
> Technically, it transfered wonderfully. peeled easy and the hand is good.
> I am using the oki3400.
> My question isn't about the paper per se, but about the color. when printing on plain paper, the print is the color on the monitor -- or close enough for government work --- but printed on the ht, far deeper, yellow is more orange, light backgrounds are darker etc. I thought at first it might just be the way the transfer prints but then it transfered true to what printed. Very little left (ver light shadow) on paper after transfering.
> If I get near the other computer tomorrow I will try for pictures. Is there a color adjustment I am missing? a profile I should load?
> wnxp, corel x3, oki3400.
> thanks


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## nicedeal

What about the OKI C3300 ? Any experience with that one? I need to buy a laserprinter, but I don't want to buy anything before I'm sure it'll work.. 

It seems like the C3200 is discontinued? Anyone besides vlcnmstr that uses the C3400?


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## yummymom007

I haven't used it yet I don't know the paper settings. 
Does anyone know the settings for the OKI 3400? 

I love the color it is beautiful....


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## edwin 98

yummymom007 said:


> I haven't used it yet I don't know the paper settings.
> Does anyone know the settings for the OKI 3400?
> 
> I love the color it is beautiful....


Amamda:
Glossy Mode. Use the MP Tray and out the Back you need a straight path.
If you have anyother questions check my web site under instructions then paper settings.

Big Ed


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## hiteq

*Re: color off?*



vlcnmstr said:


> My question isn't about the paper per se, but about the color. when printing on plain paper, the print is the color on the monitor -- or close enough for government work --- ... stuff deleted


 
Lots of monitor adjustment options out there, search the web. Some offer hardware to calibrate monitors.

Some have said that Corel doesn't print colors true... I have read about users creating the artwork in Corel, saving in PDF exiting corel , and printing via adobe!

Might give it a try and see if it works for you.


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## hiteq

Great Documentation! Thanks for taking the time to post your findings.


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## marc elliot

Great demonstration of this technology. I am struggling with dye sublimation, but this looks almost easy. 
With so much pressure are paper lines a problem? I use minimum pressure on a Pheonix 16 x 20 press and cannot eliminate paper lines.
Have you calculated costs per shirt for paper and ink? Is this process price competitive?

Thanks again.


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## grumpster

Ross B said:


> As an ex-teacher, I couldn't agree more, CoolTech. Probably the greatest lesson of teaching is that it is a two-way learning experience.


Every time I try to teach some one something, I realize just how many things I take for granted that I didn't even think to tell them about until they start asking questions. Often times, it's something that I hadn't even thought of my self, and I end up having to do some testing before I can give them a proper answer.


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## Ken Styles

so this is done with just a laser printer? With no overlay showing like regular heat transfers for inkjet printers?


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## Moo Spot Prints

Corollary: "If you can't teach it, you don't know it."


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## spore

edwin 98 said:


> To All Thread Members:
> 
> Staples is selling the OKI 5500 for a net of $399.98 this includes a $200.00 instant rebate. The sale state Sunday 3/18/07 and goes through 3/31/07.
> 
> This is the best price on a OKI 5500.
> 
> Big Ed


Anyone have a Staples link for buying online? I haven't seen this sale.


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## DuraCotton98

spore said:


> Anyone have a Staples link for buying online? I haven't seen this sale.


Hi Jim:

Here is the link to the Staples special on the Oki printers - 3400, 5500, and 5800.

Staples.com®. that was easy®.

While verifying the link to Staples, I noticed the specs for the Oki 9300 (12" x 18" paper size). Has anyone tried the DuraCotton HT with this Oki? If so, how did it work? what paper settings did you use? Thanks in advance!

Good Luck

have a great one!


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## yummymom007

problem with HT and My OKI 3400...I am having problems with the perameter of the design the window is showing, kind of a very light bluist greyish color...What can I do to correct??? Thank you 

Can't try anymore ran out of my samples

Ed thanks can't wait to get my new paper...

Amanda


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## grumpster

yummymom007 said:


> problem with HT and My OKI 3400...I am having problems with the perameter of the design the window is showing, kind of a very light bluist greyish color...What can I do to correct??? Thank you
> 
> Can't try anymore ran out of my samples
> 
> Ed thanks can't wait to get my new paper...
> 
> Amanda


Sounds like you might be seeing the polymer shadow from the transfer paper. Try pressing it again at 400 for 3-4 seconds medium - heavy pressure with a tefflon sheet then hot pealing it. That should take care of the problem. It will also take care of any hand that the image area may have.


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## mrstitch

I've been watching quietly these post every since I returned my OKI 5500 for an HP 2605dn. The Duracotton98 as many know, did not work well with either printer.

Since receiving the HT version, my prints are coming along without a hitch. This is in the HP using the manual feed and the normal glossy setting. No problems with streaks, fuser melting or partial coverage.

I print at 405 for 15 seconds- sometimes a bit longer for fullsize sheets and pressure is set at "4" on my Insta heat press. Paper peels smoothly- not like butter, but with no significant resistance. I've yet to wash anything, but I hope colors won't fade. I haven't seen any test with HP inks, has anyone else?


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## vlcnmstr

*Re: color off?*



hiteq said:


> Lots of monitor adjustment options out there, search the web. Some offer hardware to calibrate monitors.
> 
> Some have said that Corel doesn't print colors true... I have read about users creating the artwork in Corel, saving in PDF exiting corel , and printing via adobe!
> 
> Might give it a try and see if it works for you.


thanks for the input.
It isn't that the oki had colors printing "off". When I test printed my graphic on plain laser paper it printed fine and true. When I printed on the HT, it was really darker (what was supposed to be a ecru/bone colored background came out much tanner to almost a light brown) peaches were orange etc.
back to plain paper and it was fine.
I didn't see any good place to adjust color output. I haven't ever come across anything that different. (all my graphics to date haven't needd any real close color match or pantone spec's)
djl


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## DuraCotton98

*Re: color off?*



vlcnmstr said:


> thanks for the input.
> It isn't that the oki had colors printing "off". When I test printed my graphic on plain laser paper it printed fine and true. When I printed on the HT, it was really darker (what was supposed to be a ecru/bone colored background came out much tanner to almost a light brown) peaches were orange etc.
> back to plain paper and it was fine.
> I didn't see any good place to adjust color output. I haven't ever come across anything that different. (all my graphics to date haven't needd any real close color match or pantone spec's)
> djl


Hi DJL:

I am wondering if you are or ever have run an inkjet printer on your particular computer. Inkjets use color profiles; a color profile can impact your color output.

DuraCotton HT does NOT impact the color output other than the color will be slightly darker after heat pressing to a shirt. This could be your issue - have you tested Lightening (10 - 25 setting) as per the AutoART website site (Instructions, Oki Printing Tips, Tricks).

Good Luck

have a great one!


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## vlcnmstr

well, yes over the years i have run inkjets on the cmputer.
How would that change the color output?
for the last year only the samsung color laser and now the oki 3400 have been run on this machine with color output being fine.
is there a place to specify a "profile"? Never had to before.

Now, another thing-- as I had only run one print so far on the oki-- work has been 80 hour weeks lately -- is that the first time through, I mistakenely ran the paper wrong side up so it printed on the back. Being cheap, I re-ran it with the correct side and this is the print I used. would the seond pass through a printer afect the HT? maybe this weekend with the holiday I can get back to paying with the paper and printer. I have a large vinyl order to get done first though.
djl


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## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> well, yes over the years i have run inkjets on the cmputer.
> How would that change the color output?
> for the last year only the samsung color laser and now the oki 3400 have been run on this machine with color output being fine.
> is there a place to specify a "profile"? Never had to before.
> 
> Now, another thing-- as I had only run one print so far on the oki-- work has been 80 hour weeks lately -- is that the first time through, I mistakenely ran the paper wrong side up so it printed on the back. Being cheap, I re-ran it with the correct side and this is the print I used. would the seond pass through a printer afect the HT? maybe this weekend with the holiday I can get back to paying with the paper and printer. I have a large vinyl order to get done first though.
> djl


DJL:

A color profile from an inkjet 'distorts' the image in order to print correctly. Where to find it and how to remove it, there are many inkjet users who know so much more than I. Someone will hopefully provide the instructions.

The Okis tend to print very accruate color. I suspect you simply need to 'lighten' the image in the Oki driver. 

Good Luck!

have a great one!


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## yummymom007

I am having a problem with the washing of my tees after pressing them. they will not show the polymer window until pressed and then boom there it is in the first washing especially on pink. Anything I can do to stop this? I can't only print on white....

I am trying to find a washing regement that won't harm the crystals and will still resolve this problem. 


Thank you 

Amanda


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## yummymom007

Sorry in that previous post I meant it disappears in the press and then shows up in the first wash. My customers aren't going to like this so I am trying to find out how to resolve this problem. 

Amanda


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## SQL

binki said:


> Nice post. Did you do the second pressing with the teflon? We did it with the duracotton98 and it eliminated the hand altogether.


What is "hand"? I keep seeing this term used, but in my noobness, don't have a clue.


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## Solmu

SQL said:


> What is "hand"?


Feel / stiffness / thickness basically. How the print or fabric feels / handles.


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## spore

I'm using the Duracotton HT with an Oki 3400. The main advantage is the colors don't fade as much compared to the Inkjet Durabrite / Ironall. 

I was hoping for true "Transfers Without Borders" I can still see the polymer window with close inspection, so I'm back to trimming around the art with scissors. At least there's no flaking...also the ink and paper are cheaper.


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## yummymom007

Any one else having this problem?


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## CoolTech

I just posted this over in the DuraCotton main thread

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p100639-post454.html


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## freebird1963

*Re: color off?*

were in the oki printer driver is the option to reverse/mirror print ?
I just printed and realized that I didn't see the option. Lucky no text on image
OKI 5500


----------



## CoolTech

*Re: color off?*



freebird1963 said:


> were in the oki printer driver is the option to reverse/mirror print ?
> I just printed and realized that I didn't see the option. Lucky no text on image
> OKI 5500


what design software are you using?


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## oldscot

Wish I could give you a solution to the problem but may be able to shed some light on its cause as I am unfortunately having the problem also. When we initially washed the pressed transfer by itself, the window did not appear. When we washed it with some clothing that contained several ash and darker clothing, the window showed slightly darker than the t-shirt we had printed on but it was very obvious.. In our case there apparently was a reaction with the polymer crystals in the pressed duracotton transfer and the dyes in the colored items washed with the test t-shirt. It also could have been something in the water or even the detergent that combined with the dyes in the colored items. There is one other reported case of this happening in the main duracotton thread elsewhere in the t-shirt forum. Apparently this is not a major problem for the vast majority of users of this product but it is sad that a few of us are having this problem. Almost all our customers we supply sublimated t-shirts to wash their sublimated t-shirts in with some colored clothes with no problems and it would be awkward for us to tell them they would have to just wash the duracotton transferred items separately.(especially if an employee had just one shirt to wash). You might go to the other duracotton thread and mention this problem and possibly Ken of Autoart (the producer of Duracotton) may have some solutions Good luck


----------



## edwin 98

Hi All: Well Staples is at it again!! They have put the OKI C5500n on sale for $399.98 after a repate. So for all of us that missed this sale last time we have from 4/22/07 to 4/28/07 to go out and buy one.
Big Ed


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## htt117

We purchased the Oki 5500n from Staples. Arrived this week and we completed our first series of test runs. For your information, here is what we found.

Our heat press is a Phoenix Phire 16X16
Transfer paper - Duracotton HT
Toner - OEM from Okidata
Design Software Adobe Creative Suite 2
Press set point temperatures 400, 410 and 415 degrees F. peeled after 2 seconds (about)
First press times 12, 18 and 20 seconds
Press pressure - heavy
Second press with teflon sheet for 10 seconds - hot peel
Gildan 100% cotton tee material white (mostly)
We did some prints with toner saver on

For comparison, we printed many of the same images using an Epson C88+ printer equipped with a bulk ink system. Ink is TLM Magic Mix formulation. For this comparison, we printed on TransferjetII paper.

We ran a series of images including photographs at each of the conditions above. Our observations are sumarrized below.

BORDERLESS TRANSFER - not achieved. The polymer area outside the image transferred onto the material. It is not as apparent visually as the "window" around the inkjet transfers. It comes close to being invisible on the white tee. On light blue, sand, natural and other materials, it was more apparent. For commercial prints, we will continue to cut out our designs to minimize the border area.

ZERO HAND - - not completely achieved. The second pressing with Teflon sheet definitely improves the hand of the transfer area without imparting the glossy character to the finish that we can get with Plastisol or to some extent, inkjet transfers. The surface is smoother and can be felt as different that the non-printed area. Overall, the laser transfers gave a softer, more conformable final product compared to the inkjet transfers with most of the different heat press settings that we tried. The difference is real, but not dramatic.

EASE OF USE - excellent. We plugged the printer in and ran a few sheets of normal paper through it. We used recommended settings: glossy media and straight through paper path. No jams. We did work on color corrections and settings, but less so that the inkjet. We have made good money with the inkjet printer, but it is dissicult to keep it running. Clogged printheads are a fact of life. We take time to clean them and then go on. With the laser, we are using OEM cartridges with no hassle and the cost is still comparable. The laser wins hands down on ease of use. (We did not find a way to print mirror images on the laser with the drivers. We are reflecting the images in the design software. A little more trouble, but easy to do.)

We will likely keep the inkjet system in use. For some items, the laser transfers are not as good. For example, we do photos on natural fiber tote bags. They discolor slightly at the 365 degree setting we use for inkjet transfers. They do not tolerate the higher temperatures required for laser transfers without some discoloration (darkening).

We haven't finished the wash tests yet, but they look OK so far.

We see the Oki laser with Duracotton HT as a much less complex operation that gives slightly improved results in many areas. A good step forward, but not a panacea. The laser printer makes it even harder to see how a DTG printer can be economically justified in our retail environment.

Jim


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## spore

Nice writeup Jim,
I too made the switch to Oki laser with Duracotton HT. My results have been very similar to what you reported. I'm very pleased with the results, especially the washability of Duracotton, the fading is very minimal. On a side note, I spoke with a Duracotton rep the other day, he said stay tuned...they're close to releasing new a paper for dark shirts. Once this can be achieved, it'll revolutionize the retail market.


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## basenji

I love the potential for Duracotton HT a little more than I love my results. 
I have a new OKIC3400n which seems to be a great little printer. Plain paper printouts of my designs are perfect. Transfers need a lot of messing with color/saturation, I can deal with that. 
But even with running 5-6 sheets of plain paper through first, I'm getting areas at the edge of my transfers where the toner is not sticking. Usually but not always the black toner is the problem. Is this a heat issue? Any suggestions will be appreciated!
When I am able to produce a transfer suitable for printing, the results are excellent.


----------



## spore

I've also had similar issues with the Oki3400. I haven't had problems with Duracotton, but the Oki prints everything oversaturated. The color correction which comes with the driver is not good. I have to do the saturation correction in Photoshop before printing the transfers.


----------



## basenji

Thanks,Jim.
I'm getting better at the color correction. Are you also having problems with the toner not sticking to the transfer? That's my biggest concern right now. Today I put 10 pieces of plain paper through before printing transfers and the transfers were fine. That seems a little excessive, but then I have zero experiece with laser transfers.


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## CoolTech

I can hardly wait!


spore said:


> Nice writeup Jim,
> I too made the switch to Oki laser with Duracotton HT. My results have been very similar to what you reported. I'm very pleased with the results, especially the washability of Duracotton, the fading is very minimal. On a side note, I spoke with a Duracotton rep the other day, he said stay tuned...they're close to releasing new a paper for dark shirts. Once this can be achieved, it'll revolutionize the retail market.


----------



## CoolTech

htt... excellent write up.

I have found that I can do many white shirts without trimming, but I like to trim the image, even if it is just a little (I can't explain why, I just do).

On light color shirts (Gildan's mostly), I must trim the design down to avoid that light outline. But, I don't have to trim it nearly as much as other papers.
====

True zero hand comes after the first or second washing. 

====

I noticed that the HT imbeds the toner into the fabric of the shirt. After the small fabric pieces have dislodged themselves and the fabric lays down again, the color that appears to me lost (minimally) actually comes back. Look at the fabric after drying and notice the pulled up pieces of fabric. They are still imbedded with toner making the color appear to have faded, which is quite different from other CLC transfer papers that lay on top of the fabric and hold the fabric down. Those papers allow the design to crack (I now have items created with HT that have been washed 30 times. There is no additional fade to those shirts (Now I am just babbling on, and will stop).


----------



## vlcnmstr

spore said:


> I've also had similar issues with the Oki3400. I haven't had problems with Duracotton, but the Oki prints everything oversaturated. The color correction which comes with the driver is not good. I have to do the saturation correction in Photoshop before printing the transfers.



What are you finding is right for color adjustment?
I have found the same issue with my 3400. I had a picture of a japanese print and instead of the backrougound printing to look like the parchment the image showed, it came out rather brown-orange.
I tried just desaturating it but that just 'greyed' the whole image without solving the problem. I have corel and somewhere photoshop and would like to learn the balpark tweeks.
thanks
djl


----------



## CoolTech

I don't know about the C3400, I have the C3200 and the C5500. I now use the 5500 for printing on HT exclusively. It produces better lasting color than the C3200. You may want to change to transparency, instead of Glossy and try that

My setting on the 5500 are printing for "transparency". I usually open MS Word and print 10 sheets of blank paper from Word, then send the first image for HT on to the printer.

I use CorelDraw x3 and my Color management settings are set to Default Settings:

Generic internal RGB profile
Generic CMYK printer profile
Generic Profile (Monitor)

When I setup a print to the C5500, I only change the defaults to:

Multipurpose Tray
Transparency
(paper direction/size if needed):

Here is the latest shirt I printed using HT:









This went onto:









The color difference on the Sombrero is due to my camera. The Sombrero came out orange, just like the first image in this line.

Since printing, the shirt has been through 5 washings, and 2 salt water scuba dives for testing. The color has remained as with other shirts. It laid down after the fourth drying cycle and I would say the color remains at 95% of the original printing (I would expect that from any dying process). This was done for an on-line scuba forum where we setup the "Sink-O" weekend of diving. The orders from this shirt paid for my son and I for the whole weekend of diving, room and food. I think it was worth it for a short run of shirts  

I have taken two designs that I think will be selling a lot, and farmed them out to F&M Enterprises for plastisol transfers (I haven't received them yet and it was my first attempt to use F&M).

Overall


For white shirts done in a hurry, done well and in 1-1,000,000 colors, I will use HT
For light colored shirts (Especially Cardinal Blue, Pink and Tan - all of these are Gildan Ultra 6.1 oz) I will have to continue testing each design before printing to see how much trimming I will need to do to the design.
Designs with few colors, or colors that are easy to reproduce, I will probably go with F&M's Freedom process (If the stuff I get from them is of good quality when it arrives)
For Spot Color, heat split plastisol designs that I am doing continuously for recurring accounts (currently four organizations) , and my own stock transfers, I will use Dowling Graphics less than 10 minutes from my house
I don't think anyone can rely on any ONE product to do everything. I don't think I want to put all my eggs in that basket. Find out what this paper will help you do 

For me, it produced 60 shirts this week

12 Shirts for a choir in NC that contacted me on Monday, had a decent image that I could trace to vector, edit in a few minutes and print a mock-up shirt that I took a picture of 1 hour later and sent via email. The 12 shirts (Including the mock-up) went out on Tuesday and were received on Friday before the choir had a presentation on Saturday - 12 shirts because I had DuraCottonHT
6 Shirts for dive shop & charter operators. I went to the Ocean Festival in Ft. Lauderdale last Sunday (Of course I wore one of my own designs for the SCUBA to walk the show). This is a consumer event, where the consumer meets vendors of water sports related activities. 6 dive shop &/or charter operators commented on my shirt design and wanted to know where I got it. When I told them that I made it, and several others, they were very interested in wholesale costs. I created 6 mock-up shirts (Including their operation names AND logos created from their business cards) and sent them off this week. If any of them accept proposals, I will get the transfers from F&M, or Dowling and still use DuraCotton to add their particular Name/Logo to the shirts - 6 shirts because I had DuraCottonHT
6 Shirts I did for myself. I have friends who I like to dive with, and the season is back upon us. We went out today on my friend's boat for a long overdue day of diving with friends in the Gulf of Mexico. I created commemorative shirts for the event with a collage of pictures from last year when we have taken the boat out for dives - 6 shirts because I had DuraCottonHT
36 Shirts for the "Sink-O De Mayo" event coming up this weekend. Orders are still coming in, but I wanted to stay ahead of the game -36 shirts because I had CuraCottonHT
There is one more that I did, but I did it for a potential event to be named in the future... let's just call it:










It was done to see if the event coordinators were on the same page for logo ideas to promote the potential event (That's right... swimming with pigs!)




basenji said:


> I love the potential for Duracotton HT a little more than I love my results.
> I have a new OKIC3400n which seems to be a great little printer. Plain paper printouts of my designs are perfect. Transfers need a lot of messing with color/saturation, I can deal with that.
> But even with running 5-6 sheets of plain paper through first, I'm getting areas at the edge of my transfers where the toner is not sticking. Usually but not always the black toner is the problem. Is this a heat issue? Any suggestions will be appreciated!
> When I am able to produce a transfer suitable for printing, the results are excellent.


----------



## basenji

very nice. I forgot to mention that I'm printing photographs; that's why the color needs a lot of monkeying around with. The transfers I printed today turned out to be the best I've ever pressed. I guess my OKI just needs some extra goosing, but it's definitely worth it.


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## CoolTech

basenji said:


> very nice. I forgot to mention that I'm printing photographs; that's why the color needs a lot of monkeying around with. The transfers I printed today turned out to be the best I've ever pressed. I guess my OKI just needs some extra goosing, but it's definitely worth it.


Ah, printing photos.

Yes, I have to mess with the print settings to lighten the image up to acceptable levels. I have to play with it over and over. I try for something that is "just" too light on regular paper (I have not purchased glossy picture paper to see if the same thing happens, but I bet it does). Once I have it to that point, it usually prints perfect (or, at least acceptable)


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## DuraCotton98

To all:

This is an excellent discussion about the Oki printers.

If there is a consistent theme from the comments above, it may be: "you must get to know and understand your own equipment". 

If you are having loose toner issues, then you need to run a hotter (longer) paper setting, to properly fuse the toner. Rather than Plain Paper, try Transparency, Glossy or Medium Settings. If you have a larger run, the fuser will heat up (as you print) and likely you will need to cut back one setting.

Each fuser seems to have its own best setting for DuraCotton HT. So here is a little trick to try. Rub your hand across the toner imprint on the DuraCotton HT paper - if toner rubs onto your hand, then the toner has not fused correctly and you need a hotter (longer print) setting.

Yes, toner darkens when heat pressed. To compensate, I use:

On the 3400 model:
Color - Advanced Color
Color Matching - Monitor Vivid
Manual Settings:
Brightness - 15 or so (I test between 10 and 25) and lock on the best
Saturation - 12 or so (I test between 10 and 25 but always a little less than brightness) and then lock on the best.
I set these once and do not adjust 
Black Finish - Auto
Adjust for what you like best and stick with it - everyone's eyes see color differently so there never is a right setting for all.

On the 5500 and 5800 models:
Color - Advanced Color
Color Matching - Monitor Vivid
Manual Settings:
Brightness - 26 or so (I test between 10 and 25) and lock on the best
Saturation - 25 or so (I test between 10 and 25 but always a little less than brightness) and then lock on the best.
I set these once and do not adjust 
Black Finish - Auto

The above settings are a starting point - try them and then adjust for your specific needs.

Here's to excellent DuraCotton HT transfers!


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## DuraCotton98

Hi All:

Here is a website with a great prices on the Oki C5800.

Be aware, prices are for OPEN Box, FACTORY REFURB and REFURBs. Freight seems insane - phone and try to get reduced even if you pay the freight.

OKI PRINTING SOLUTIONS 62426703 OKI C5800Ldn - Printer - color - duplex - LED - Legal, A4 - 1200 dpi x 600 dpi - up to 28 ppm (mono) / up to 24 ppm (color) - capacity: 400 sheets - Hi-Speed USB, 10/100Base-TX ( ink jet printers )

have a great one!


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## thrivers

so do we really trim around the image or not? some people still trim their image and some have showed the outline after pressing and washing.

attention! ken.. help!

thanks!


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## basenji

Ken, that's great info. I'm already using the glossy setting; I guess I just need to keep running plain paper through until it heats up more. I'll check my other settings against your suggestions, that's very helpful.
Here's a naive newbie question. Can I just "print" a blank page to heat the thing up or do I actually have to lay toner down with some test bars or something?
Edwin, I have only used duracottonHT so far with full page pics, but this weekend I'll be testing some with big white areas - I'll post my results.


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## thrivers

thanks basenji! i'l wait for that..


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## norwalktee

I print 10 blank pages to heat things up.


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## DuraCotton98

Hi Edwin:

Trimming is a personal option.

Many customers do not trim as they press in such a manner that trimming is NOT required (eg follow the directions).

Some customers cut based on their personal preferences.

Bottom line, there is NO need to cut.

have a great one!


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## DuraCotton98

norwalktee said:


> I print 10 blank pages to heat things up.


 
Hi:

10 pages seems like a lot of pages to me - the most that I have personally done is 4 - 5. I guess it really depends on the specific fuser in each printer.

have a great one!


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## periscope

I run two pages through and the transfer is fine. As far as trimming goes, I printed an ash grey t-shirt yesterday with an image I'd trimmed roughly around the edges. Using the latest tips from Ken I backed off the pressure a bit from what I had been using and got no outline whatsoever. I use a pneumatic press set at 60 lb (medium), temp 405 degrees, 17 sec. Peel hot. I have found that if you are applying transfers to both sides you must let the shirt cool down before doing the other side.


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## norwalktee

I do 10 pages because I have no problem with the transfer when I do that many blanks. I tried 5 and it would sometimes get a paper jam.


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## htt117

We run two or three plain pages through before we do a transfer. We have never had a jam or any quality problems related to the fuser temp. We are using a 5500n. We haven't tried a long run on the laser yet. Has anyone had good or bad experiences doing a run of 25 to 50 prints? Do we need to plan on printing 10 sheets and letting the laser "cool" or is it OK to just select 50 copies and let it go?

We reduced the pressure a little on the latest transfers and it seeems to have reduced the "window" effect to almost nothing. You would have to be very picky to see the outline on a white or natural color tee. We didn't wash test any of the last runs. Was washing performance just as good at the lower pressure?

We wil probably still trim most of our designs. This is not required for appearance, but we still have a slightly different "feel" or hand in the transfer area. Minimizing this makes a better product for us, and it is not very time consuming.

Jim


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## susejevol1

Im trying to switch over from inkjet to laser and have a few questions.
1) For a small business what is the best printer as a decent price?
2) what is the max pages that can be printed before it has to cool down?
3) cool down time?

Can i get a sample from some of you guys in the forumn?

Even though I have been pressing stuff for awhile I have not had my actual business running for a long time and I need some help getting started. There is good money for shirts and hats. I will have 3 months with only 3 weekends per month to prove it to my wife else I have to give it up for a long time. 

My question is this. What is the best way to get something up and running fast. Does not have to be a high money maker just need to bring is some profit to prove it and then be able to go full time.

I have the ability to do on the spot stuff like photos, hats, shirts and maybe some mouse pads and puzzles.


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## vlcnmstr

susejevol1 said:


> Even though I have been pressing stuff for awhile I have not had my actual business running for a long time and I need some help getting started. There is good money for shirts and hats. I will have 3 months with only 3 weekends per month to prove it to my wife else I have to give it up for a long time.


And what does your wife do for pleasure that uses money but brings no return?
Is she going to give that up? Bugs the cr** out of me when things are given a "time to do by or else". Sounds like they are afraid you'll succeed.
djl


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## edwin 98

Can i get a sample from some of you guys in the forumn?


Go to link below my name and order a sample please, tell me which printer you have and I will send the correct sample. Go to Contact US.

Big Ed


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## mcshirty3

The type of ink that you use is more important than the printer!

Inkjet Printers and Inks

All printers used for heat transfers are standard, off-the-shelf printers. There is nothing special (modified) about any of them. Most of them (despite manufacturer’s claims) print just as good as any other printer, for heat transfer needs.


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## mcshirty3

vlcnmstr said:


> And what does your wife do for pleasure that uses money but brings no return?
> Is she going to give that up? Bugs the cr** out of me when things are given a "time to do by or else". Sounds like they are afraid you'll succeed.
> djl


How do you know that his wife does anything that uses money without return? Maybe she's not afraid he will succeed, but afraid he will fail. A time to do by or else may just be the motivation men need these days. You give ultiamtums to yourself. I'm sure these decisions do not only affect the entrepreneur but their families as well.

I don't know what this guys situation is, but sounds to me that's a matter to be discussed by them and them alone.


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## susejevol1

Yes it is for motivation but it is also cause about that time our backup funds will start getting touched and I will have enough to hold out till I can get a good job. I have kids so I must play it a little safe incase I dont make any profit at all. Plus Im going back to college for the police academy as a backup plan.
We have had a rough few years and the first two time we started the business have really hurt us money wise when they failed. Uncle stole our customers when we started bringing in some money then ruined our company name, left us with bills. The second time a tornado came though and destroyed most of our equipment. Had just enough gas money to pack up and go home after picking through our newly bought (destroyed) tent, tables computers. Sucks but I learned from it. Dont trust anyone but yourself (and wife) and have plenty of time and money set aside. Both of which I now how!!!!!!

I can tell you one thing for sure. I would never trade my family for nothing but sometime I wish I could go back to those "take care on me only" days just long enough to get started.
Well enough with the sob story, life goes on and Im getting back and going at it again.

I enjoy making the stuff to much to let it mess up this time. Kinda like haveing a sweet tooth and you will do almost anything to satisfy it providing it will not leave me broke.


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## vlcnmstr

ok, sorry, I guess that's part of writting online-- It was meant as a bit more toungue-in-cheek than it was taken. My apologies, it wasn't meant disparagingly.

djl




susejevol1 said:


> Yes it is for motivation but it is also cause about that time our backup funds will start getting touched and I will have enough to hold out till I can get a good job. I have kids so I must play it a little safe incase I dont make any profit at all. Plus Im going back to college for the police academy as a backup plan.


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## susejevol1

No problem. We all have stories but the ones that have the good ones are the ones that picked themselves back up and kept going. Well, and the ones that watched their friends get drunk allot the night before!!


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## susejevol1

Just out to curiosity when you go to buy a laser jet do they usually tell you what kind of fuser is in them. Which is better oil or oil free fusser. I dont want to drive hour to buy one then not buy the right one or order the wrong transfer paper. I have ran a laser jet transfer through our printer and copier at work... glad I was the only on duty cause i had to take the whole thing apart to clean the rollers off. Still doesnt print right but Im not saying a thing.


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## DuraCotton98

Hi:

The message below is CRITICAL! for those seeking ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, 'Sublimation-like' color vibrancy.

Yesterday, I was at a customer site. This customer has had loads of issues pressing ZERO Hand. Together we pressed on his air-driven heat press - though we tried several prints we were not able to get the polymer without hand.

Then we went to his manual - it pressed with ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting required immediately.

We used the same time (14 - 15 seconds on the first pressing and 3 - 4 seconds on the 'Teflon' pressing) and the same temp 405 F / 207 C.

What differed was the pressure - on the manual, we used 3/4's pressure whereas on the air we were at 50 psi.

If you use air, please cut back on the pressure - you might test cutting back on the time (this should work though I have yet to test) and leave the pressure where it is.

We have wash tested many images with NO noticable color variances at the lower pressure (we, at AutoART , have been pressing with the lower pressure since late last year).

have a great one!


----------



## kmyck1

Ken suggested the Oki 3400 printer to me to use with the DuraCotton HT. Here is a link to Tech For Less where I bought mine today:
OKI PRINTING SOLUTIONS 62426904 OKI C3400n - Printer - color - LED - Legal, A4 - 1200 dpi x 600 dpi - up to 20 ppm (mono) / up to 16 ppm (color) - capacity: 250 sheets - USB, 10/100Base-TX ( refurbished hp laser printers )

All items are warranteed and their customer service is great!


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## susejevol1

Somewhere in the forums was a sub-post that computed the cost per page using a laser printer plus a transfer based on on how much of the page % you printed. I added it to my favorites but is disappeared or something and I have not been able to find it under search.
Does anyone have this info or a link to it?


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## DuraCotton98

Are you in the market for an 11" x 17" color laser printer?

Check this out:

*Tuesday, May 8, 2007*

*New Large-Format Color Printer by OKI *


Okidata announced C8800 Series printer, a digital color large-format printer producing up to 11x17 in. printouts in compact design.

The new printer feature greater media control and flexibility, it allows printing banners 11x 47.25 in. which fits fine for architectural renderings and engineering design documents.

The printer is fast; it produces 26 pages per minute in color and 32 pages per minute in black-and-white at 1200x600 dpi resolution.

OKI C8800 Series printer is built using digital LED Technology and Single Pass Color Technology. The latter allows make products requiring fewer moving parts.

The estimated retail price of the C8800 Series starts at $2399. The printer will be available in North America in June 2007 through Okidata authorized providers.

We are currently beta testing printing DuraCotton HT. Very pleased!

have a great one!


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## edcruz

hi guys, it seems that Oki 3400n can print up to 1.2m banner. 
any1 with 3400n tried printing larger than a4 duracottonHT (need trimming), so the size would be 21cm x 42cm.

hope you get what i mean =) thx~


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## vlcnmstr

I don't think Dura cotton comes in that large a size-- thoug it would be cool to transfer a full scarf pattern or such


----------



## edcruz

i see from dye-namic they do have DuraCotton HT 11 X 17(27.5cmx42.5cm).
Normal a4 size is 21cmx29.7cm.
although if you print using c3400n banner, it will be just 21cmx42cm max.

any1 tried it ?


----------



## edwin 98

edcruz said:


> hi guys, it seems that Oki 3400n can print up to 1.2m banner.
> any1 with 3400n tried printing larger than a4 duracottonHT (need trimming), so the size would be 21cm x 42cm.
> 
> hope you get what i mean =) thx~


Ed: We Have a 16 X 20 heat press so when we use the OKI 3400 we have to print the a long design in 2 or more prints. We then press the two prints together in one operation. To do this we line up the bottom of the first print with the top of the second print so that there is an overlay. We make sure that the second print is not outside the heat press (if it is we trim the excess off). Because of the overlay when we peel both sheets peel together. This procedure will produce a garment the length of the heat press.

Big Ed


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## edcruz

edwin 98 said:


> Ed: We Have a 16 X 20 heat press so when we use the OKI 3400 we have to print the a long design in 2 or more prints. We then press the two prints together in one operation. To do this we line up the bottom of the first print with the top of the second print so that there is an overlay. We make sure that the second print is not outside the heat press (if it is we trim the excess off). Because of the overlay when we peel both sheets peel together. This procedure will produce a garment the length of the heat press.
> 
> Big Ed


Big Ed, how do u allign your papers so that the design is complete and fits well? bcoz if u face the design downwards when u press, u cant actually see it.


----------



## edwin 98

edcruz said:


> Big Ed, how do u allign your papers so that the design is complete and fits well? bcoz if u face the design downwards when u press, u cant actually see it.


Ed: We trim the top sheet so there it is borderless then we place the second sheet on the back of the first sheet using the sides of the sheets as a quide. If the design must mesh exactly we lay it out face up and then use 1/4" heat tape on the sides. Please, remember that the combined transfer CANNOT be larger the the press because it will leave a line on the garment.

Big Ed


----------



## jnjsweetened

edwin 98 said:


> I just had a call from a customer. He bought a OKI 3400 and was having problems with jamming. While he was on the phone with me he tried the glossey mode. It worked wonderfully. So if you use a OKI 3400 with DuraCotton HT make sure you are in the Glossey mode.
> 
> Edwin 98


Hi,
I just got DuraCotton HT, I am having problems with jamming. Do you know the settings for HP Color Laserjet 3700?

Thanks,
Jhoyce


----------



## jnjsweetened

mrstitch said:


> I've been watching quietly these post every since I returned my OKI 5500 for an HP 2605dn. The Duracotton98 as many know, did not work well with either printer.
> 
> Since receiving the HT version, my prints are coming along without a hitch. This is in the HP using the manual feed and the normal glossy setting. No problems with streaks, fuser melting or partial coverage.
> 
> I print at 405 for 15 seconds- sometimes a bit longer for fullsize sheets and pressure is set at "4" on my Insta heat press. Paper peels smoothly- not like butter, but with no significant resistance. I've yet to wash anything, but I hope colors won't fade. I haven't seen any test with HP inks, has anyone else?


Hi, are you still happy with the HP 2605dn using DuraCotton HT? I have an HP 3700 and I am having so much problem with fuser melting. Now I am thinking of trade it in for HP 2605dn since reading your post. I was before thinking of getting OKI.

Jhoyce


----------



## DuraCotton98

susejevol1 said:


> Somewhere in the forums was a sub-post that computed the cost per page using a laser printer plus a transfer based on on how much of the page % you printed. I added it to my favorites but is disappeared or something and I have not been able to find it under search.
> Does anyone have this info or a link to it?


Hi Mat:

Just before the Charlotte show of last week, I asked Oki Canada to cost the toner component of three typical jobs.

Over the years, we have calculated the AVERAGE coverage to be about two-thirds (of the paper size). I tried to select three prints that varied - logos created in vector art, a near full page of bitmaps and a large creative image again in vector graphics.

Oki came back with an average page cost of 31.4 cents Canadian (approximately 27 cents US$). That costing was based on top end, full bore suggested Canadian retail dollars.

Since then, we have made some changes which favour our users:
1. on the printer, we now turn down the toner density to minus 30 (minimum toner density setting) for each of CYM. We now use LESS toner.
2. our distributors are just beginning to bundle replacement toner with DuraCotton HT heat transfer paper. Purchasing both paper and toner toner together costs less than buying each separately.
The outcome of these changes is your effecitve cost of toner per average page is well under 25 cents US$.

Hope this goes a long way in answering your question.

have a great one!


----------



## edwin 98

*Re: OKI C6000n Special Sale*

 Anyone still shopping for an OKIDATA Printer at a reasonable price.

The OKI C6000n is on special till June 29, 2007.
Orders must be placed by 8 PM EDT

See our web site for details

Big Ed


----------



## spore

DuraCotton98 said:


> Just remember that each press and each operator is different. In Charlotte, the heat press was set up significantly different than the one in our office (pressure) yet the results - ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting, excellent wash durability - are virtually the same.


Ken, I've tried everything you suggest, and I still see a polymer window using Duracotton HT. I bought my teflon the same place you get yours. I've also tried increasing and decreasing the pressure & temp. I'm back to trimming around all the images with scissors. D.C is a step up from inkjet paper but personally I don't feel you guys should market this paper as "ZERO cutting and transfers without borders." This may be possible, but from my experience it's very not easy to achieve. Maybe I'm missing something?

My setup:
Printer - Oki C3400
Heat press _ Hix Presto 15
Shirts - Gildan Ultra Cotton
Paper - DuraCotton HT


----------



## DuraCotton98

spore said:


> Ken, I've tried everything you suggest, and I still see a polymer window using Duracotton HT. I bought my teflon the same place you get yours. I've also tried increasing and decreasing the pressure & temp. I'm back to trimming around all the images with scissors. D.C is a step up from inkjet paper but personally I don't feel you guys should market this paper as "ZERO cutting and transfers without borders." This may be possible, but from my experience it's very not easy to achieve. Maybe I'm missing something?
> 
> My setup:
> Printer - Oki C3400
> Heat press _ Hix Presto 15
> Shirts - Gildan Ultra Cotton
> Paper - DuraCotton HT


Hi Jim:

About one month ago, a customer from the DR bought and brought over a Hix Presto 15. We tried and tried to achieve ZERO Cutting / Transfer without Borders. We never did.

The customer switched heat press brands the very next day. I am not saying that Hix will not work but I have yet to learn the right settings on that press.

In Charlotte a few weeks ago, we used a brand new heat press model. By the end of 3 days, we finally had that press doing ZERO Cutting / Transfer without Borders. It took something like 300 - 400 samplesto get it right. We had the temp up to 405 F, time 14 - 15 seconds, pressure was set at 9.

We have said that every heat press and every operator is different. The published settings on our website are for my manual 15" heat press. To achieve ZERO Cutting /Transfer without Borders, you need to get to know your equipment and how it works with DuraCotton HT.

So Jim, have patience and test, test and test again until you get it right! 

The most important step is the 4 - 5 second Teflon (c) heating + HOT PEEL Quickly (samepressure, same temp).

Work with your DuraCotton distributor. He / she can help you.

Good Luck!

havea great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi:

Here is the link to information about the forthcoming wide format Oki c8800 color printer. DuraCotton HT has been extensively tested on this printer.

http://www.okidata.com/mkt/downloads/c8800.pdf

have a great one!


----------



## dodank

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi:
> 
> Here is the link to information about the forthcoming wide format Oki c8800 color printer. DuraCotton HT has been extensively tested on this printer.
> 
> http://www.okidata.com/mkt/downloads/c8800.pdf
> 
> 
> ok
> but is it going to be affordable? the average price on wide formats is around 2 or 3 thousand bucks.
> 
> what now, that's the question. wide format printers r manufacture every day
> 
> have a great one.


----------



## kmyck1

Ken - Just finally getting ready to start more testing with the DuraCotton HT and the new press, it's a Hotronix STX Clam 16"x20", do you have the specs for pressing with this unit?

Thanks,
Kimberly


----------



## jolafrancis

Hi Ken goin by the fact that the 8800 and the 8600 are more or less the same machine, what settings should be usedon these printers?
Does one have to run the blanks sheets through to warm the fuser up?


----------



## DuraCotton98

kmyck1 said:


> Ken - Just finally getting ready to start more testing with the DuraCotton HT and the new press, it's a Hotronix STX Clam 16"x20", do you have the specs for pressing with this unit?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kimberly


Hi Kimberly:

This press tends to be very accurate on temperature. Go a few degrees over 400 F. Use 14 seconds. Pressure - start about 3/4s and go up a bit and then down a bit until you achieve invisible polymer. If that model has a pressure number, try 6, 7 and 9.

You should be able to achieve ZERO Cutting quickly.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

dodank said:


> DuraCotton98 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> Here is the link to information about the forthcoming wide format Oki c8800 color printer. DuraCotton HT has been extensively tested on this printer.
> 
> http://www.okidata.com/mkt/downloads/c8800.pdf
> 
> 
> ok
> but is it going to be affordable? the average price on wide formats is around 2 or 3 thousand bucks.
> 
> what now, that's the question. wide format printers r manufacture every day
> 
> have a great one.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Dodank:
> 
> From what I have read - PC Magazine (I think) - the street price was about $600 US below the nearest competition.
> 
> have a great one!
Click to expand...


----------



## DuraCotton98

jolafrancis said:


> Hi Ken goin by the fact that the 8800 and the 8600 are more or less the same machine, what settings should be usedon these printers?
> Does one have to run the blanks sheets through to warm the fuser up?


Hi JolaFrancis:

Yes, the 8600 (PCL driver only) and the 8800 (PCL and Postscript drivers) are virtually the same printer.

During our testing here, we ran in HEAVY and GLOSSY modes successfully. There was ZERO jamming in both settings. (Electrical) power seems to influence the fuser temperature regionally across North America - especially now during the heavy use of air conditioning. So you may have to adjust for that.

We did not have to run any blank sheets while in GLOSSY mode. 

Enjoy - the c8800 is the best color laser I have ever used / tested. It prints DuraCotton HT spectular!

have a great one!


----------



## jolafrancis

Cheers Ken,
I need to lay my hands on some of these A3 sheets.
We 'unforntunates' on the other side of the pond are having major difficulties finding this paper.
Who sells DuraCotton in the UK?!!


----------



## DuraCotton98

jolafrancis said:


> Cheers Ken,
> I need to lay my hands on some of these A3 sheets.
> We 'unforntunates' on the other side of the pond are having major difficulties finding this paper.
> Who sells DuraCotton in the UK?!!


Hi JolaFrancis:

Currently, we are shipping direct to the UK. We have a Master Distributor in place and he will be activated when I travel there in the fall months.

A few weeks ago, we received an unanticipated order from Eastern Europe. That wiped out our A3 inventory for the time being. We still have lots of A4 in stock in case you cannot wait - payment is made via PayPal.

Next week, the offices of AutoART in Canada are closed. We, as a company, have a strategic visit arranged south of the border.

Hope the above helps!

havea great one!


----------



## meyerlanski

Hi,
After hours and hours of reading through this thread I decided to go out and purchase 100 sheets of durracotton HT.

After 11 tries I was able to get pretty good results however I still see a very slight outline of the box - Depending on what angle you view the image on the shirt and lighting conditions.

I have an oki4300 printer - settings are as recommended and using Gilden 100% ultra cotton shirts.

As for the heat press, the best results I was able to get was at 407 heat for 15 sec. then re press a second time same temp with teflon sheet for 6 seconds. I ensured to slighly stretch the shirt between both presses.

Any suggestions as to how to completely remove the slight box outline? 
I feel like I tried many different settings (times/temp) but can't get any better results.. Please help!

Click here to see what I mean by slight box around image.


----------



## RescueShirts

meyerlanski said:


> Hi,
> After hours and hours of reading through this thread I decided to go out and purchase 100 sheets of durracotton HT.
> 
> After 11 tries I was able to get pretty good results however I still see a very slight outline of the box - Depending on what angle you view the image on the shirt and lighting conditions.
> 
> I have an oki4300 printer - settings are as recommended and using Gilden 100% ultra cotton shirts.
> 
> As for the heat press, the best results I was able to get was at 407 heat for 15 sec. then re press a second time same temp with teflon sheet for 6 seconds. I ensured to slighly stretch the shirt between both presses.
> 
> Any suggestions as to how to completely remove the slight box outline?
> I feel like I tried many different settings (times/temp) but can't get any better results.. Please help!
> 
> Click here to see what I mean by slight box around image.


Have you washed any of these shirts to see what they look like post-wash?

Just curious...

-Brett


----------



## meyerlanski

They are in the wash as we speak  Hopefully the box will go away after washing! I think I read somewhere that washing once might help with this issue..
Any oher suggestions if the wash wont solve the problem?


----------



## meyerlanski

After wash same results. I can see the white box outline - it's is almost gone but not quite. You really have to look to see see it in certain light conditions..

Should I increase temp decrese time and pressure?

Help please! I know I'm very close but just need help with the final tweeking to achieve optimal results!

By the way, absolutely NO color fade after first wash, very impressive! I noticed slight color fade on only one shirt. Could that be because too much toner was on the paper (I didn't change the toner density to -30 as suggested)..

Can someone also let me know where exactly this can be done? I read the manual and couldn't find it anywhere!


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

DuraCotton98 said:


> By the end of 3 days, we finally had that press doing ZERO Cutting / Transfer without Borders. It took something like 300 - 400 samplesto get it right. We had the temp up to 405 F, time 14 - 15 seconds, pressure was set at 9.


You've *GOT* to be kidding!

You make the stuff and it takes you that many pressings to get it right? How on earth are we supposed to do the same without going broke???

I am getting increasingly frustrated with this paper. I know it's possible to get rid of the window. I've seen pictures. I don't think anybody's lying. I just cannot get it to work. I want it to work. It's so much easier and cheaper than dealing with the inkjet.

I have a Samsung 600N, a Phoenix Phire 16x16 and am using the HT paper. I do not know what a 3/4s pressure means. I am finally able to get consistent peels (not results mind you) at 405 degrees with HEAVY pressure. My press jumps when it pops open. This can't be right. My shirts looks like they went through a metal fab when I'm done pressing. Totally unsellable IMO. Any hotter and I get discoloration on the fabric. I'm using Gildan Ultra Cottons for my testing.

I have some theories:

1. The fuser temp is key to the operation. It's a likely culprit because of the repeated reports that you have to run a few sheets of plain paper first before it starts working. I definitely see differences in the presses depending on how hot the printer is. What is the optimal temperature the fuser should run at? Is there one? Glossy, Matte, Heavy settings in the printer all mean something. The trouble is, I have no idea what. What happens to the polymer when it's going through the hot roller?

2. Moisture. The instructions say to not pre-press. Is this right? How can the heat be effectively transferred if there's a layer of steam blowing around? The environment is working against you. Depending on where you are and the humidity levels, your press is going to need to work harder to keep the temperature up and results will be unpredictable at best.

3. The toner matters. I don't why it should, but I'm not ruling it out. The trouble is, it's not a color vibrancy or fading thing. Even after an immediate hot peel, the surface is rough to the touch. Can the toner be messing with the polymer chemistry? Maybe too much of it on there?


----------



## vlcnmstr

I know that a while bak there was a thread about the samsung printers (I have one so I was asking lots of questions) The jist was that they run too hot for the paper at any settings and were unsuitable. 
When CompUSA went out of business I got the chance to buy an oki 3400 cheap. Prints form that are incredibly different and wonderful form what happened with the sumsung.
Sorry to be downer, but it may simply be th printer.
djl


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

vlcnmstr said:


> Sorry to be downer, but it may simply be th printer.


Unless there was another thread about it that I didn't see, the discussion was about the regular (not HT) paper and the samsung. I was one of the people reporting that it was too hot. 

The HT prints and transfers. It just has the darn window that needs to GO. I am potentially willing to buy an Oki wide format IF I can get some halfway decents transfers!


----------



## meyerlanski

No one has any suggestions regarding the following  

1- How to remove very slight white box outline (see below for info on what settings I have found to be best so far)

2- Where to go to find the toner dinsity settings to lower them to -30 on OKI c3400n laser printer.




> Hi,
> After hours and hours of reading through this thread I decided to go out and purchase 100 sheets of durracotton HT.
> 
> After 11 tries I was able to get pretty good results however I still see a very slight outline of the box - Depending on what angle you view the image on the shirt and lighting conditions.
> 
> I have an oki4300 printer - settings are as recommended and using Gilden 100% ultra cotton shirts.
> 
> As for the heat press, the best results I was able to get was at 407 heat for 15 sec. then re press a second time same temp with teflon sheet for 6 seconds. I ensured to slighly stretch the shirt between both presses.
> 
> Any suggestions as to how to completely remove the slight box outline?
> I feel like I tried many different settings (times/temp) but can't get any better results.. Please help!
> 
> Click here to see what I mean by slight box around image.
> 
> I also noticed slight color fade on only one shirt. Could that be because too much toner was on the paper (I didn't change the toner density to -30 as suggested)..
> 
> Can someone also let me know where exactly this can be done? I read the manual and couldn't find it anywhere!


----------



## Lnfortun

meyerlanski said:


> No one has any suggestions regarding the following
> 
> 1- How to remove very slight white box outline (see below for info on what settings I have found to be best so far)
> 
> 2- Where to go to find the toner dinsity settings to lower them to -30 on OKI c3400n laser printer.


1 - I looked at the photo and it looks like the box is caused by too much pressure.
2 - As far as I know there is no toner density adjustment for this printer. You might be thinking of toner saturation. If that is the case you can find it in the color tab in printer property. Click on the color tab then click on the Advance Color radio button and the saturation adjust will appear.


----------



## meyerlanski

Thanks Luis,
I will give it a try with less pressure.. Should I still keep the same temp and time (408 for 15 secs)?

It hard to know what to adjust since there are so many factors to consider!

As for the toner density settings, I thought there was something else other than saturation which I already set to -25.. Might be just me, I read SO many threads regarding this paper that I could have misread one of them and thought it was something else


----------



## charles95405

Myerlanski.... I might try less pressure as Infortun suggests, using medium pressure...the harder the pressure, the more imprint of the sheet that you will make on the shirt


----------



## charles95405

Forgot to add....I will ask Ken about this when he returns to the office next week.


----------



## Lnfortun

meyerlanski said:


> Thanks Luis,
> I will give it a try with less pressure.. Should I still keep the same temp and time (408 for 15 secs)?
> 
> It hard to know what to adjust since there are so many factors to consider!
> 
> As for the toner density settings, I thought there was something else other than saturation which I already set to -25.. Might be just me, I read SO many threads regarding this paper that I could have misread one of them and thought it was something else


I would try changing one variable at a time so you can definitely see what fixed the problem. As far as the printer goes I think it has an automatic density feature. Check your user's guide in the specification section.

Luis


----------



## meyerlanski

Thanks Luis and Charles.. Sounds like less pressure is the way to go.. I will try that and see what the outcome is after pressing and washing once.


----------



## jolafrancis

My gosh i'm sure it is easier to get water out of a stone...
ok so no one currently stocks DuraCotton in the UK, if there anyone out there that has A3 sheets to sell?
if so price including shipping please to the UK
Thanks


----------



## jolafrancis

Apologies dear peeps. it's actually DuraCotton HT I'm looking to purchase in A3 sheets. Thanks


----------



## meyerlanski

i tried less pressure (I'd say it was medium) still no luck.. The window actually showed more with less pressure.. 

The best time/combo so far is 406-407 deg for 15 sec at hard pressure.

Pressure:
It's hard to say how much pressure I use exactly because i have a manual press but i can tell you my its hard pressure -a little more and I cant close the press!

Temperature:
I also found that the shirts start to scortch just a little at 408 for 15 sec. So to not make the shirt yellow - the max heat I could use for my press I found to be 406-407 deg.

Charles - At this point I'd love to hear from Ken when he gets back.. I almost used up 20 sheets so far trying to achieve no trimming and no border! Plus I have an order to fulfill in the next 4 weeks so I'd like to get this working soon 

I can provide more photos if needed.


----------



## Rodney

jolafrancis said:


> My gosh i'm sure it is easier to get water out of a stone...
> ok so no one currently stocks DuraCotton in the UK, if there anyone out there that has A3 sheets to sell?
> if so price including shipping please to the UK
> Thanks


Users can't post commercial/sales posts on the forum, so you may want to contact the maker of the paper via their website and ask if they can sell you some.


----------



## DuraCotton98

jolafrancis said:


> Apologies dear peeps. it's actually DuraCotton HT I'm looking to purchase in A3 sheets. Thanks


Hi JolaFrancis:

As I have mentioned (written) earlier, we are out of DuraCotton A3 sized paper. Normally, we have stock but were wiped out by an order from Eastern Europe. We do have lots of stock in the 11" x 17" format - most users can slightly adjust a graphic to fit without significantly impacting the message. 

If you cannot use 11" x 17", then you will have to await the arrival of more A3 - coming with the next order of DuraCotton HT paper. I am sorry but that is the best we have to offer at this time.

Good Luck!

havea great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Moo Spot Prints said:


> You've *GOT* to be kidding!
> 
> You make the stuff and it takes you that many pressings to get it right? How on earth are we supposed to do the same without going broke???
> 
> I am getting increasingly frustrated with this paper. I know it's possible to get rid of the window. I've seen pictures. I don't think anybody's lying. I just cannot get it to work. I want it to work. It's so much easier and cheaper than dealing with the inkjet.
> 
> I have a Samsung 600N, a Phoenix Phire 16x16 and am using the HT paper. I do not know what a 3/4s pressure means. I am finally able to get consistent peels (not results mind you) at 405 degrees with HEAVY pressure. My press jumps when it pops open. This can't be right. My shirts looks like they went through a metal fab when I'm done pressing. Totally unsellable IMO. Any hotter and I get discoloration on the fabric. I'm using Gildan Ultra Cottons for my testing.
> 
> I have some theories:
> 
> 1. The fuser temp is key to the operation. It's a likely culprit because of the repeated reports that you have to run a few sheets of plain paper first before it starts working. I definitely see differences in the presses depending on how hot the printer is. What is the optimal temperature the fuser should run at? Is there one? Glossy, Matte, Heavy settings in the printer all mean something. The trouble is, I have no idea what. What happens to the polymer when it's going through the hot roller?
> 
> 2. Moisture. The instructions say to not pre-press. Is this right? How can the heat be effectively transferred if there's a layer of steam blowing around? The environment is working against you. Depending on where you are and the humidity levels, your press is going to need to work harder to keep the temperature up and results will be unpredictable at best.
> 
> 3. The toner matters. I don't why it should, but I'm not ruling it out. The trouble is, it's not a color vibrancy or fading thing. Even after an immediate hot peel, the surface is rough to the touch. Can the toner be messing with the polymer chemistry? Maybe too much of it on there?


Hi Jose:

Your detailed comments are good - the more the better as we attempt to address your issue of the polymer showing.

Firstly, I did not know that the Samsung 600 worked with our paper. Congrats!

Secondly, to the visible polymer: you need to cut back on your pressure. Heavy is too much - and this causes visibility of the polymer and a 'hard' hand. We recommend about 3/4s of what pressure you are now using.

After pressing initially for 14 seconds, the polymer is highly visible. At that point, overlay with Teflon (c) and press again for 4 seconds (same temp, same pressure). HOT PEEL QUICKLY. This second pressing drives the polymer deep into the cotton; the result is the polymer is virtually invisible. the second pressing greatly improves wash durability.

If toner remains on the Teflon, then that is an indication the primary pressing was not good.

If you peel too slowly or your press is not at the target temp., the polymer and image area will feel rough.

Do you really know how your press performs - temperature wise - when it is pressing? Have you tested for cold spots? the drop in temperature? accuracy in the temp. reading? These aspects can impact the results with DuraCotton HT so it is important to understand your press and how it operates - given the results, you can then adjust your temperature settings to achieve the desired output.

For instance, if your temp drops below 400 F degrees, it is likely the transfer will not release correctly. If you have a cold spot, then the transfer in that area will not release correctly. If you have cold spots where the polymer is not printed, then you will have visibility issues (with the polymer).

If your press drops 20 - 25 F degrees during the 14 second pressing, then the transfer will not release correctly and the polymer will be visible. If you then press quickly with a 'cold' press (below recommended temp), then the polymer will remain visible.

Results can vary with the Teflon (c). We have recommended a quality Telfon be used, rather than low-end. More recently, we have been using a 'brown' heat press paper. That also works well.

Now let me address your theories:

1. Fuser temperature for each printer is basically consistent. When you change paper settings - say from Plain to Heavy - it is the time that the paper is in the heat that varies. The actual temperature should not. 

This is a general statement. There are a very few exceptions to this rule of thumb.

2. Moisture: most papers require a pre-heat to remove moisture. DuraCotton HT does not, saving time and actually improving the color vibrancy. 

3. Toner does matter. Some toners - such as KonicaMinolta - do not work well with DuraCotton HT. The initial prints look great - washout of the toner is about 50% on the first wash. Yes, toner does matter.

I thought the suggestions put forth by Luis (Infortun) were of high quality in addressing your issues. 

Hope the above helps

have a great one!


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

Hi Ken. Welcome back.



DuraCotton98 said:


> Firstly, I did not know that the Samsung 600 worked with our paper. Congrats!


Don't add it to the list yet! 




DuraCotton98 said:


> Secondly, to the visible polymer: you need to cut back on your pressure. Heavy is too much - and this causes visibility of the polymer and a 'hard' hand. We recommend about 3/4s of what pressure you are now using.


Is that what you mean by 3/4s? Three fourths of max pressure? It's not obvious.

I was using that high pressure because if I didn't I couldn't get a good release from the paper last time I tried it. I've since gotten a better feel for the peeling properties of the HT. The poor results from before may have been purely operator error. I will give it another shot this week with lower pressures.

I was doing a second press at same pressure and time after the first press with a quick hot peel. It definitely smoothed out the feel but the polymer was still highly visible. I found out through trial and error that when you mean hot peel, you mean RIGHT AWAY. If you let the transfer cool even a little bit it may not peel properly.



DuraCotton98 said:


> Do you really know how your press performs


Sort of. I've mapped my cold spots (in the middle, 3-4 degrees) with a heat gun (which I know is not totally accurate). I have not measured recovery times quantitatively but I've gotten a feel for it over time.



DuraCotton98 said:


> If your press drops 20 - 25 F degrees during the 14 second pressing, then the transfer will not release correctly and the polymer will be visible.


Then I *really* don't understand why you don't recommend a pre-press to get the moisture out. Pushing that moisture out of the material is going to suck heat out of the machine, no? Why introduce the unpredictability? Is the steam necessary for a good transfer? I don't get it!



DuraCotton98 said:


> Results can vary with the Teflon (c). We have recommended a quality Telfon be used, rather than low-end.


What do you consider quality teflon? I'm using the sheets from imprintables. No troubles to date.



DuraCotton98 said:


> Now let me address your theories:


Well, so much for my conspiracy theories.  

I'll try less pressure as that's I've really got left to try at this point. I'll report back my results. Thanks for the (continued) support!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Moo Spot Prints said:


> Hi Ken. Welcome back.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't add it to the list yet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what you mean by 3/4s? Three fourths of max pressure? It's not obvious.
> 
> I was using that high pressure because if I didn't I couldn't get a good release from the paper last time I tried it. I've since gotten a better feel for the peeling properties of the HT. The poor results from before may have been purely operator error. I will give it another shot this week with lower pressures.
> 
> I was doing a second press at same pressure and time after the first press with a quick hot peel. It definitely smoothed out the feel but the polymer was still highly visible. I found out through trial and error that when you mean hot peel, you mean RIGHT AWAY. If you let the transfer cool even a little bit it may not peel properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Sort of. I've mapped my cold spots (in the middle, 3-4 degrees) with a heat gun (which I know is not totally accurate). I have not measured recovery times quantitatively but I've gotten a feel for it over time.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I *really* don't understand why you don't recommend a pre-press to get the moisture out. Pushing that moisture out of the material is going to suck heat out of the machine, no? Why introduce the unpredictability? Is the steam necessary for a good transfer? I don't get it!
> 
> 
> 
> What do you consider quality teflon? I'm using the sheets from imprintables. No troubles to date.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, so much for my conspiracy theories.
> 
> I'll try less pressure as that's I've really got left to try at this point. I'll report back my results. Thanks for the (continued) support!


Hi Jose:

I'm back and will be around to address your situation much sooner again!

The cold spots may be the source of your issues. Try an extra 5 degrees and cut back on your time a second or two, possibly 3. That may or may not work. Everything is worth testing.

Re: moisture. Prove me wrong.







The important thing is achieving the desired end quality, rather than how you get there. In our tests, we achieved better color and wash durability if we did not pre-heat.

Imprintables Teflon (c) is good quality - that is what we also use (Imprintables is Stahls).

High pressure gave you release - that suggests the temperature was too low - cold spots, rapidly falling temp while pressing, incorrect temp reading, .... something like that.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

meyerlanski said:


> i tried less pressure (I'd say it was medium) still no luck.. The window actually showed more with less pressure..
> 
> The best time/combo so far is 406-407 deg for 15 sec at hard pressure.
> 
> Pressure:
> It's hard to say how much pressure I use exactly because i have a manual press but i can tell you my its hard pressure -a little more and I cant close the press!
> 
> Temperature:
> I also found that the shirts start to scortch just a little at 408 for 15 sec. So to not make the shirt yellow - the max heat I could use for my press I found to be 406-407 deg.
> 
> Charles - At this point I'd love to hear from Ken when he gets back.. I almost used up 20 sheets so far trying to achieve no trimming and no border! Plus I have an order to fulfill in the next 4 weeks so I'd like to get this working soon
> 
> I can provide more photos if needed.


Hi Meyerlanski:

Just above I have attempted to address the visible polymer issue with Jose. Pls test these suggestions in your environment. I look forward to your comments.

The heat press is critical and you need to understand not only about the paper but also how your press operates (as I have mentioned in the reply to Jose).

I question that you have found the best temperature, time and pressure settings to date. For me, the best settings are those that give you the attributes on DuraCotton HT on a shirt. So I believe you have more testing to do.

I am now back and ready to help you in a timely manner.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## grumpster

Has anyone had tried and had any luck using Duracotton HT on printing baseball or trucker style hats? I've got pretty good, though not perfect results on Hanes heavyweight t-shirts, but my results on hats are dismal. The polymer resin shows up very badly on hats. None of the changes I've made to improve t-shirts had helped on the hats at all.


----------



## meyerlanski

Hi Ken,
Thanks for your attention on this.. I tried and tried different settings and temp..

I THINK I found the correct settings which are 213 for 15 seconds and a second press at 213 for 5 seconds..

I say think because I noticed two things:

The first is that after the first press I really have to stretch out the shirt especially around the polymer prior to second press.
Second, after the second press I again have to stretch the shirt quite a bit around the square polymer to make it invisible.

Once complete I feel a VERY SLIGHT hand but It's so minor that I htink it will go away after first wash..

Another thing I noticed was that I Really have to move the shirt around in sunlight and I see the window slighly.. This can only be seen on a white shirt, I tried and could not see it on a grey ash shirt that I pressed.

Is the streching and viewing the window iin certain angles normal?

I'll upload some pics as soon as I can..

Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## DuraCotton98

meyerlanski said:


> Hi Ken,
> Thanks for your attention on this.. I tried and tried different settings and temp..
> 
> I THINK I found the correct settings which are 213 for 15 seconds and a second press at 213 for 5 seconds..
> 
> I say think because I noticed two things:
> 
> The first is that after the first press I really have to stretch out the shirt especially around the polymer prior to second press.
> Second, after the second press I again have to stretch the shirt quite a bit around the square polymer to make it invisible.
> 
> Once complete I feel a VERY SLIGHT hand but It's so minor that I htink it will go away after first wash..
> 
> Another thing I noticed was that I Really have to move the shirt around in sunlight and I see the window slighly.. This can only be seen on a white shirt, I tried and could not see it on a grey ash shirt that I pressed.
> 
> Is the streching and viewing the window iin certain angles normal?
> 
> I'll upload some pics as soon as I can..
> 
> Thanks again for all your help.


Hi Meyerlanski:

Congrats!

At times, I will stretch - once north - south and once east - west (both ways) - to make sure the image area is ZERO Hand.

Under some light(s), it is be possible to slightly see the polymer outside the image area - but you need to look

have a great one!


----------



## mikiec

nicedeal said:


> What about the OKI C3300 ? Any experience with that one? I need to buy a laserprinter, but I don't want to buy anything before I'm sure it'll work..
> 
> It seems like the C3200 is discontinued? Anyone besides vlcnmstr that uses the C3400?


Does anybody know whether the C3300 is suitable? It looks like a slower 12ppm version of the C3400 and as speed isn't essential for my purposes, it'll save me a few quid if it works with DuraCottonHT.


----------



## meyerlanski

Hi Ken,
Is it possible that there are different settings depending on the color of the shirt?

I noticed that with ash colored shirts there is NO polymer what so ever but when I tried pressing a white shirt I saw that window again! Same results for with a light blue one as well.

I used the exact same settings as with the ash coloed shirts! They were both 100% cotton but not the same company (the ash color was guilden and the white shirt was Haynes)..

One other thing - Will this paper work well with Gilden 5000? I think they are 90% cotton 10% polyester feel slighltly thinner.


----------



## DuraCotton98

mikiec said:


> Does anybody know whether the C3300 is suitable? It looks like a slower 12ppm version of the C3400 and as speed isn't essential for my purposes, it'll save me a few quid if it works with DuraCottonHT.


Hi Mike:

The C3300 works just fine.

have a great one!


----------



## mikiec

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Mike:
> 
> The C3300 works just fine.


Thanks Ken 

What about the C3100?


----------



## DuraCotton98

meyerlanski said:


> Hi Ken,
> Is it possible that there are different settings depending on the color of the shirt?
> 
> I noticed that with ash colored shirts there is NO polymer what so ever but when I tried pressing a white shirt I saw that window again! Same results for with a light blue one as well.
> 
> I used the exact same settings as with the ash coloed shirts! They were both 100% cotton but not the same company (the ash color was guilden and the white shirt was Haynes)..
> 
> One other thing - Will this paper work well with Gilden 5000? I think they are 90% cotton 10% polyester feel slighltly thinner.


Hi Meyerlanski:

Results can vary with shirt manufacturers' products.

Though the cotton from one manufacturer to another is basicvally the same, the sizing differs. The sizing is what scorches (burns) in the heat press; it also can cause the polymer 'window' on (some) colors.

For white, there should not be a polymer window. You may wish to try various manufacturers - we have noticed some shirts work better than others.

Yesterday, one of our large distributors was recommending the Gilden 5000 to a customer. yes, it is fine.

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

mikiec said:


> Thanks Ken
> 
> What about the C3100?


Hi Mike:

The Oki C3100 is older technology with previous toner.

The older technology lacks the outstanding color vibrancy, wash durability of the current toner. Don't get me wrong the C3100 is fine until you compare the results against the current models - when using DuraCotton heat transfer papers.

have agreat one!


----------



## solomonshop

Ken, having issues still with my hp 4500 laser printer. Could you provide any more information about fuser temp.? Thanks.

Ryan


----------



## edwin 98

To All:
OKI has finally released the Large Format LED Laser Printer. The OKI C8800n will work with paper sizes 11 X 17, 8 ½ 14, 8 ½ X 11 and European sizes A3 and A4. Ken at AutoArt Color Solutions has already tested this printer and successfully printed over 300 sheets of DuraCotton HT Transfer Paper flawlessly. The results were stunningly fabulous. The Color was vibrant and alive and the accuracy of detail was truly remarkable. His initial testing shows the C8800n to be better in many ways than any other OKI Printer we have seen thus far. The C8800n with 1,000 sheets of DuraCotton HT are available at all the resellers of DuraCotton on Ken’s webs site AutoART DuraCotton heat transfer papers - transfer cotton, sublimate cotton.

Big Ed


----------



## diane143

solomonshop said:


> Ken, having issues still with my hp 4500 laser printer. Could you provide any more information about fuser temp.? Thanks.
> 
> Ryan


What problems? What settings are you using? Which paper?


----------



## mizi117

what paper?


----------



## ivangeer

I am new in the tshirt business. I tried the DuraCotton HT with my
epson cx1100. It prints without a problem. Pressed at 405 F for 18 secs
after that another 6 secs to get rid of the box around the picture.
The tshirt is perfect.

Ivan


----------



## DuraCotton98

ivangeer said:


> I am new in the tshirt business. I tried the DuraCotton HT with my
> epson cx1100. It prints without a problem. Pressed at 405 F for 18 secs
> after that another 6 secs to get rid of the box around the picture.
> The tshirt is perfect.
> 
> Ivan


Ivan:

Congrats!

I have been told that the Epson 1100 uses KonicaMinolta toner. If so, you need to do some wash tests - the KM toner washes out about 50% with the first wash.

We hope you will find otherwise.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## kmyck1

Ken:

I have simply had no luck with this paper. It's been an expensive bummer! I've pressed exactly as you've stated and still no luck. It's become beyond frustrating, especially since I went and bought the Oki printer, then the Hotronix press, ching...ching.

Kimberly


----------



## charles95405

kmyck1...where are you located? contact me off line with phone number ..lets see if we can get you going


----------



## periscope

kmyck1 said:


> Ken:
> 
> I have simply had no luck with this paper. It's been an expensive bummer! I've pressed exactly as you've stated and still no luck. It's become beyond frustrating, especially since I went and bought the Oki printer, then the Hotronix press, ching...ching.
> 
> Kimberly


Hi Kimberly:

I have an Okidata C3400 and get great results with it. Let's go through the process. Printing first starting from scratch. Use straight through setting, glossy, shiny side up of transfer paper. I set my press to 408 degrees at 20 sec, heavy pressure and get great results on t-shirts. On sweatshirts and cotton totes I use 25 sec. I fooled around at 405 degrees, 15 sec for a while but until I increased temp to 408 and time to 20 sec I didn't get the results I was looking for. I suggest you experiment a bit more with time and temp. It is easy for me to say and I can understand your frustration but I encourage you to try this.


----------



## kmyck1

Thanks, Ed! 

I've messed around with the time between Ken's recommended 400 degrees for 14 seconds with 3/4 pressure and varied the temp in 2-3 degree increments and upped the time to 20 seconds. I have yet to get a smooth peel. The prints come out great on my Oki C3400 - but it's just not happening with the pressing. 

I'll try your settings - I really want this product to work, it seemed like an amazing product. I appreciate your help!

Kimberly


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

What do YOU mean by 3/4 pressure? 
Is your press running cool? I have also had trouble finding the 'zone' with this paper. It sounds like you don't have enough pressure and/or the press isn't hot enough.


----------



## kmyck1

You'll need to ask Ken about the 3/4 pressure, as that was his statement. I am going with Ed's advice. I just did one and it came out the best yet, so I am hopeful. My press isn't running cool, I got the Hotronix, as Ken stated they are temp accurate. My other press wasn't.


----------



## Moo Spot Prints

I'm asking you because you're supposed to be using that as your pressure. since you don't know, I bet your pressure doesn't match what Ed is telling you it should be. Don't feel bad, it's a vague unit of measure.

You won't know it's accurate unless you measure it. It's probably close but it could be off by a few degrees and that could be causing some of your troubles.

Another thing you definitely have to do is peel the transfer while it's HOT. If you let it cool too much it will stick to the paper and look terrible.


----------



## kmyck1

Thanks again, Ed - the increase in the temp by 8 degrees worked pretty well. Still needs a little tweaking, but definitely workable!!!

Kimberly


----------



## DuraCotton98

kmyck1 said:


> Thanks again, Ed - the increase in the temp by 8 degrees worked pretty well. Still needs a little tweaking, but definitely workable!!!
> 
> Kimberly


Hi Kimberly:

Congrats!

I will not add to Ed's comments now that you are on the right path.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## kmyck1

Hi, Ken -

Just a suggestion, but with all of the data on printers and presses that you have; it would be extremely helpful to put together a reference sheet since there are so many variables. Perhaps ask those that are already successful using the paper to give you their specs so you have a complete listing. Then maybe have it posted as a sticky since the DuraCotton HT postings seem to get a ton of traffic.

I think that would save a lot of frustration - I just about gave up yesterday. )

Thanks,
Kimberly


----------



## grumpster

Unfortunately a reference sheet of exact setting just isn't possible. I'll explain the reason for this. 

Using a digital contact pyrometer I checked the temp on my DC-16, Hotronix 16x20 swinger, DC-3, DC-7, and a couple of other pressed I have and found each to be off by varying amounts of a few degrees. Nothing major, but enough to cause problems with more sensitive papers like the HT. Fortunately, the Knights can be calibrated which I have done. 

I've also ran test to determine the temperature drop during pressing and found the results to be quite surprising. The upper platen is heated and when lowered on to the cool lower platen, it sucks heat from the upper. This will not only vary from one press to another, but can also vary from your first use of the day, to subsequent presses as the lower platen heats up from use. I have found that adding 2-3 seconds to my first pressing helps in this regard because the lower platen is cold and sucks a lot of heat. After a few presses the lower platen warms and the added time is not necessary. 

As for pressure, what my father (a strong and healthy man) would call light pressure my mother would consider heavy pressure, and I would consider medium. The definition of pressure if very subjective and dependent on the strength of the user as well as the design of the press. Also, a larger press requires more physical pressure to provide a given pound per square inch than a small press. (100 lbs on a 10x10 plate isn't the same as 100lbs on a 20x20 plate. You would need 400 lbs on a 20x20 press to achieve the same pounds per square inch pressure.) You can not quantify pressure on a manual press. You have to learn it by experience. 


As has been said many times before, each press varies. You have to get to know your own equipment and personal pressing style. There is more than enough information in this thread to give you the information that you need to recognize your problems and make necessary adjustments. It just takes time, but it will work as advertised on the right material. Be patient. Start with the suggested settings, make one change at a time, document your changes and results as you dial in on your settings and you'll get there with little effort. Make too many changes at one time and you'll have no idea what is helping and what is hurting your results. 

I press multiple small images onto a single Tee to save costs and record the settings of each pressing so I can compare the results both during pressing, and after my wash test. When I am satisfied that I have the settings that I want, I do a full size pressing and wash test to verify that everything is working as it should and have had good results with this method. 

The one thing I have noticed about Duracotton HT is that it works best on knit fabric like T-shirts best and doesn't work nearly as well on tightly woven fabrics like cotton canvas bags or hats. Duracotton HT isn't the sole solution for everything textile, but it does work very well on T-shirts and other knits, which is what it is marketed for. 

I know this isn't the reference sheet that you wanted, but hopefully it helps you and others to understand the process of getting the correct settings and some of the variables that happen and change during use and from one user and machine to another. 

Good luck.


----------



## DuraCotton98

DJ:

Thank you for a such a tangible and intelligent response to Kimberly's suggestion.

have a great one!


----------



## Rodney

grumpster said:


> Unfortunately a reference sheet of exact setting just isn't possible. I'll explain the reason for this.


Thanks for that very informative post! Added that one to my forum favorites!


----------



## grumpster

Rodney said:


> Thanks for that very informative post! Added that one to my forum favorites!


I had written that in hopes of helping people to understand why things happen the way they do. Yours and others compliment means a great deal to me. Thanks. I appreciate the recognition.


----------



## Lnfortun

If I my added. I have a Hotronix press. I lower the upper platten, not locked in so that the timer is not activated, while the heater is warming up to full temp to keep the lower platten the same temp as the upper platten or close to it. That way when I am ready to press everything is good and ready temp wise. Btw I have a teflon sheet cover ove the lower platten all the time to protect the rubber pad and shirt from staining.

Luis


----------



## falcolu

I read a lot of reports here and benefit a lot. This is the first time I post my experience

At first, I only go to dealer site to make some test, because I don't know which equipment will get best result. With more and more testing, now I have a little knowledge about the transfer.

I will divide my experiment is 2 parts: printing and pressing
1) Printing - I try several types of Epson printer, but only can get 1-2 good print of 10. Then I got a OKI 5400n for a good deal, after some try, The best setting will be Multipurpose try with MediaTyep set to Heavy(28-32lb). The setting will be different from printer to printer. If set too light will cause the ink didn't stick to the transfer paper completely, if set too heavy will cause paper jam. The printing result is very good, and I think OKI is the perfect match to the DuraCottonHT paper. 

2) Pressing - I try the local brand Clam Press, but can't transfer the image to the T-Shirt completly, some image still left in the transfer paper, I think the temperature inconsitence cause the problem. Then I try the Insta Swing away press, get very good result(the temperature is 200 C, the time is 12 sec, the pressure is 4). So it's worth to get a good quality Transfer machine to save a lot of frustration.

I still have one major problem need to solve. There is still hand in the T-Shirt, although it is not very clear, but it make me uncomfortable. So I still need to do some experiments


----------



## DuraCotton98

falcolu said:


> I read a lot of reports here and benefit a lot. This is the first time I post my experience
> 
> At first, I only go to dealer site to make some test, because I don't know which equipment will get best result. With more and more testing, now I have a little knowledge about the transfer.
> 
> I will divide my experiment is 2 parts: printing and pressing
> 1) Printing - I try several types of Epson printer, but only can get 1-2 good print of 10. Then I got a OKI 5400n for a good deal, after some try, The best setting will be Multipurpose try with MediaTyep set to Heavy(28-32lb). The setting will be different from printer to printer. If set too light will cause the ink didn't stick to the transfer paper completely, if set too heavy will cause paper jam. The printing result is very good, and I think OKI is the perfect match to the DuraCottonHT paper.
> 
> 2) Pressing - I try the local brand Clam Press, but can't transfer the image to the T-Shirt completly, some image still left in the transfer paper, I think the temperature inconsitence cause the problem. Then I try the Insta Swing away press, get very good result(the temperature is 200 C, the time is 12 sec, the pressure is 4). So it's worth to get a good quality Transfer machine to save a lot of frustration.
> 
> I still have one major problem need to solve. There is still hand in the T-Shirt, although it is not very clear, but it make me uncomfortable. So I still need to do some experiments


Hi Falcolu:

Congrats on your testing and results!

You are virtually there - to remove hand - overlay the polymer area with Teflon (c) and press - same temp and pressure - for 4 to 6 seconds and HOT PEEL (very) QUICKLY.

Your hand should be gone

have a great one!


----------



## falcolu

Hello, Ken:

Do I need to peel the transfer paper first and then use the Teflon for 4-6 sec? Or I don't peel the transfer paper, but add the Teflon sheet to the top of transfer paper, and press for another 4-6 secs?

thanks,
Falco


----------



## ivangeer

falcolu said:


> Hello, Ken:
> 
> Do I need to peel the transfer paper first and then use the Teflon for 4-6 sec? Or I don't peel the transfer paper, but add the Teflon sheet to the top of transfer paper, and press for another 4-6 secs?
> 
> thanks,
> Falco



After the first press peel hot then do a second press with teflon, that should take away the hand.

Ivan


----------



## DuraCotton98

falcolu said:


> Hello, Ken:
> 
> Do I need to peel the transfer paper first and then use the Teflon for 4-6 sec? Or I don't peel the transfer paper, but add the Teflon sheet to the top of transfer paper, and press for another 4-6 secs?
> 
> thanks,
> Falco


Hi Falco:

Print, press and HOT peel the DuraCotton HT transfer paper.
Overlay, with Telfon (c) sheet, the polymer area of the shirt.
Press 4 to 6 seconds, HOT PEEL QUICKLY

Let cool and then feel.
If rough, then you peeled (Teflon) too slowly.

Results should be perfect

have a great one!


----------



## falcolu

Thans Ivan and Ken, 

Now I understand why I still got hand. I did the wrong way to put the teflon sheet on top of transfer paper. 

I will do some more experiment later with your method.

thanks,
Falco


----------



## KCINNV

I'm new to the forum and I'm consider starting my own t-shirt business. I'm sure this question has already been asked, but has anyone taken the transfer paper to a copy shop like Kinkos? I'm kind of scared to since I've seen post mention that the transfers can melt if a printer is to hot, so I'm not sure if the could melt in the copiers?


----------



## charles95405

Duracotton will work in most copiers like Kinkos...you need to know if the copier is oil based fuser or non oil..for oil base use duracotton oil, for non oil based, use duracotton HT. I cannot speak to other transfer papers


----------



## deniseg

Hi all just an update, i bought an Oki c5600 and ordered my Duracotton ht can't wait for them all to arrive hehe will let u all know what kind of results i get, still using my Epson and Jetstream paper atm to tide me over increased the pressure and its helped with the hand a little but lost the rough feel now =) but after ordering paper from 3 diff places under 3 diff names and finding it to be all the same paper i made the decision to change Printer's etc i'll talk to u soon got to get to bed now its 3am lol i keep telling myself not to start to read forums but i just can't help myself lol
ps got the 5600 as it seems we can't get the 5500 in uk



small update got my printer today 20/08/07 just waiting on duracotton ht =)


----------



## Dave_S

Hi Denise, If i am correct the 5600 is the UK equivalent of the 5500, you wont go far wrong with an OKI, I use the 5800, great machine, hope your Duracotton arrives soon!.

Dave


----------



## meyerlanski

I'm having A LOT of difficulty with this paper.. It's just so hard to find the correct settings! It's supposed to work on any 100% cotton t's but I'm having a very hard time getting it right even when using the recommended brand..

Problems I'm having:

-If I use Gildan Ultra Cotton model 2000 GREY colors look amazing (no box around image at all). 

- If I use the exact same shirt model but in WHITE I see a box around the image.

-With light colors I see not only the box around the image but also noticed the box is a lighter color than the rest ofthe shirt so it really stands out. 

Settings are:
First Press: Med/Hard pressure (3/4 i would say), 213 c, 15 sec No teflon
Second Press: Same pressure and temp, 5 sec with teflon sheet. quick peel

Someone please help, this is driving me crazy.. I really don't want to change papers but I need something that provides consistent results..


----------



## htt117

You didn't mention your printer. We use the Okidata 5500 with Duracotton HT

We have experimented with several of the grey tees also. I'm not sure which one you are using. Our experience is:

ash - the mottled appearance of the fabric shows through the transfer leaving a slightly patterned effect. We do not use this shirt commercially for digitally printed transfers.

sports grey - too dark. You get significant darkening in the non-image area. We do not offer this shirt for digital transfers.

Light blue, light pink, pistashio and other "light" shades. We have done transfers on these shirts. We generally see a slight windowing effect that gets more pronounced after washing. The effect is particularly bad if they are washed with colored clothing. There is some color shifting, but we can correct for this withour too much problem. We will use these occassionally for solid or essentially solid designs that can be cut out.

ice grey and natural. We use these quite often when we have a customer who does not want a white tee. The ice grey does little color shifting, but it does darken the image. The natural tee results in a warmer image. We see some window on the natural, very little on the ice grey shirt.

White - we do not see the effects you report on white. We get clean transfers with very little of the polymer overlay effect. After one washing, it is virtually invisible.

If I remember my high school physics, we run our press at about 205 deg C. (just over 400 deg F.). Time and pressure similar to what you are doing, but we put the teflon sheet in every time we close the press, just to protect the upper platten.

We also use a lot of the GIldan 50/50 tees and see similar results.

I would check the temperature of my press to see if your settings are accurate. Mine were not and I believe many people have presses that are hotter or colder than the thermostat registers.

Experimentsing with pressure may help, but for us temperature was more important for consistent results.

Good luck
Jim


----------



## htt117

Your comment on having less success with cotton canvas bags interested me. What kind of problems did you experience?

We do a lot of photo transfers onto canvas totes. Our standard method for these has been ink jet printed transfers using Everlast or another ironall type paper. We experimented with laser printer transfers. The transfer seemed to work fine. We had results in the image area similar to the ink jet printed transfers. Our problem was in the non image area. We saw considerable darkening of the bag, even though we were using a teflon sheet and never contacted the bag directly with the platen. We do not see this at the 40 degree lower temperature we use for the ink jet printed transfers. We are not using Duracotton HT for totes right now because we could not find a way around this darkening.

It is likely due to the way the canvas is finished and sized. I suspect it is fairly acidic and the heat is causing or accelerating a chemical reaction with the canvas material.


----------



## meyerlanski

Thanks for the info..

I use an oki 3400 for the printer. As for the grey t-shirt - I was refferening to the Ash..


----------



## DuraCotton98

meyerlanski said:


> Thanks for the info..
> 
> I use an oki 3400 for the printer. As for the grey t-shirt - I was refferening to the Ash..


Hi Meyerlanski:

There is no doubt that we are having issues with some light colors - light blue is one such example.

You have mentioned white and that surprises me. I believe white is our best color in terms of the polymer not showing. At one or two specific angles (horizontal rather than vertical when someone is wearing), it is possible to see a faint image. For most end users and transfer operators, this has not been an issue.

Since you are having difficulty with white, your 'process' of pressing may also be impacting various other colors. I would recommend finding the 'fix' for white first as that 'fix' will likely greatly improve some / all of your colored shirts as well.

Your settings sound in the 'ball-park' - maybe try a trace more pressure.

Jim's suggestion of verifying your actual heat settings - rather than what the thermometer reads - is very valid. I would suggest such after your press has reached temp and after pressing a few dozen shirts quickly (production like run). Time of day has also impacted the heat performance of many presses.

Jim's shirt comments are dead-on, including canvas. Some users rave about canvas, others are not happy. His thoughts about why various canvas fabrics work and others do not are very accurate - the sizing does impact the results.

Sizing varies amoungst t-shirt manufacturers and even within manufacturer's product offerings. Maybe this explains why you are seeing variance with Gildan products.

At AutoART, we are constantly improving our product offerings - some announced and some unannounced upgrades. It is important to receive on-going feedback from users like Jim and yourself for the benefit of all. Let me assure you, we are working hard to improve the performance of our papers in the areas mentioned by Jim and yourself (as well as many others).

Good Luck! with the whites

have a great one!

Ken

ps one large customer reports using TRANSPARENCY in the Oki printer driver paper mode setting significantly reduces the polymer visibility on many pastel colors.


----------



## deniseg

ok the Duracotton just arrived so will be playing with it at wk end will post results when we get them. 
ps Have noticed that the paper curls up (well it had on arrival) so hope this doesn't matter to much when we put it in printer?


----------



## MYDAMIT

HI,
Can i used this duracotton to a black and white copier. i have a ricoh aficio 1060? i will doing a 11x 17 inch black design...thanks


----------



## charles95405

Mydamit.... DuraCotton is only for color laser printers and only on white/ash material.


----------



## MYDAMIT

oh,i will use in white shirt but only a black design thats i thought i can use a copier. Can you suggest me a kind of duracotton to use in staples or officemax printer for 11x17 size paper. i know their is a duracotton HT and oil. thanks


----------



## charles95405

Mydamit... the kind of paper you need to use depends on the copier. Duracotton HT is for non oil fusers and Duracotton Oil is for those copiers that have oil based fusers. There is a distributor in New Jersey


----------



## MYDAMIT

how do i know if the staples printer is oil base or non fuser oil,sorry but i'm still newbie in duracotton and i dont have a color lazer copier thats i will go to kinkos or staples just to print this paper.but i need to know what paper i need to buy. i try in our ricoh printer using duracotton HT and our printer broke.thanks for your quick reply


----------



## diane143

MYDAMIT said:


> how do i know if the staples printer is oil base or non fuser oil,sorry but i'm still newbie in duracotton and i dont have a color lazer copier thats i will go to kinkos or staples just to print this paper.but i need to know what paper i need to buy. i try in our ricoh printer using duracotton HT and our printer broke.thanks for your quick reply




Just look (or call and ask) the models they use. Our local Kinko's and Staples use non-oil printers, HT worked fine in it, although with a major color shift.

Diane


----------



## MYDAMIT

thanks a lot...


----------



## charles95405

most...let me repeat MOST, copiers in copy centers are oil based BUT...you can see the model number and then call the manufactor and ask them...or call the duracotton distributor in NJ and he may know if you get him the model number.


----------



## privateparts

We have a high-end Xerox 7700. Has anyone run DuraCotton through this machine? The fuser gets pretty hot... and the last thing I want to do is start jamming it. 

It seems like it could the answer since I only print on white shirts.


----------



## charles95405

the xerox docucolor 12xxx is oil based...BUT I think the xerox 7700 series is a Phaser system and uses solid ink. Is that what you have?? If so I have tried Duracotton with phaser system and because of the way the ink is melted onto the paper...the solid ink does melt in printing...it had very poor washing. In fact the initial print was not as vibrate as with a toner based system.

contact me off line if you need other information


----------



## DuraCotton98

privateparts said:


> We have a high-end Xerox 7700. Has anyone run DuraCotton through this machine? The fuser gets pretty hot... and the last thing I want to do is start jamming it.
> 
> It seems like it could the answer since I only print on white shirts.


Hi Art:

Somewhere out there, we have a customer using the Xerox 7700 / 7800 model. The model is toner based.

I do not know the paper settings but with a little testing, I am sure you will quickly identify the correct paper choice. I suggest you start with Transparency and or Glossy.

Good Luck!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## dingoculuk

hi
i have a epson 1100c . Has anyone run DuraCotton through this machine? 
thanks.


----------



## DuraCotton98

dingoculuk said:


> hi
> i have a epson 1100c . Has anyone run DuraCotton through this machine?
> thanks.


Hi Dingoculuk:

The Epson 1100 c uses KonicaMinolta toners (so it is likely a private-labelled KM laser).

The Epson was tested by someone in the UK. The prints on the DuraCotton looked great, pressed great and then washed out approximately 50% with the first wash. Obviously, we do not recommend any KM products with which to print DuraCotton papers.

The above was reported several months ago, right here on T-ShirtForums.com. You could look back and read the actual comments.

have a great one!


----------



## ivangeer

i have the cx11. it prints pefect on the duracotton, Hetpress goes perfect. the only negative is after the first wash i lost 50% of the color.

ivan


----------



## Dave_S

It was me that tested Duracotton HT with the Epson C900, and yes, Ivan and Ken are bang on, printed fine, pressed fine, washed with approx 50% fade on first wash.

Dave

@ Dingoculuk, i would recommend you try MagicTouch TTC3.1 with your 1100, it worked fine in my C900,excellent paper.......The Magic Touch (GB) Ltd - Full Colour Image Transfer Paper, Heat Press, Transfer Printing, Heat transfer paper


----------



## debragander

I'm still very new to this and so far have only used my plotter, vinal and heat press. Along with my kit came the OKI C5600 which I havn't even used yet so can you tell me would it be suitable for use with the duracotton HT, they sound great.
Also without sounding and idiot when you say 'no hand' what does that mean?


----------



## ivangeer

How does this paper wash ????

Ivan


----------



## DuraCotton98

Dave_S said:


> It was me that tested Duracotton HT with the Epson C900, and yes, Ivan and Ken are bang on, printed fine, pressed fine, washed with approx 50% fade on first wash.
> 
> Dave
> 
> @ Dingoculuk, i would recommend you try MagicTouch TTC3.1 with your 1100, it worked fine in my C900,excellent paper.......The Magic Touch (GB) Ltd - Full Colour Image Transfer Paper, Heat Press, Transfer Printing, Heat transfer paper


Dave:

Thanks again for your comments!

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

debragander said:


> I'm still very new to this and so far have only used my plotter, vinal and heat press. Along with my kit came the OKI C5600 which I havn't even used yet so can you tell me would it be suitable for use with the duracotton HT, they sound great.
> Also without sounding and idiot when you say 'no hand' what does that mean?


Hi Debbie:

"Hand' refers to the feeling of the transfer polymer. Some papers have a heavy 'hand', others a soft 'hand' and DuraCotton HT - no 'hand' when pressed correctly.

Hope that helps!

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

ivangeer said:


> How does this paper wash ????
> 
> Ivan


Hi Ivan:

In our wash tests, we see minor washout of the color at about 10 washes. Thereafter the fade is slight. Ultimately, the strong color outlasts the fabric.

have a great one!


----------



## falcolu

I wish this report can provide more information of the testing, thus the inventor of DuraCottonHT can make this paper better.

My equipment and setting is:
1) OKI 5400dn, the setting is Multi-Purpose Tray, Heavy (28-32lb)
2) Insta Swing-Away Heat Press, Temperature 200C, Time 12 seconds, Pressure setting is 4

I did lot experiments, now I have no problem to print the transfer paper in OKI printer (without paper jam, without color dropping), and I can press the transfer paper to the T-Shirt and peel easily.

But I didn’t get ZERO HAND all the time. I still can’s achieve this most important milestone.

I try white T-Shirt, gray T-Shirt, and some other light color T-Shirts. I also wash them to see the change. The result listed below, I also included photos of the tests
1) The white T-Shirt is OK(see photo 1), although we look carefully, we still can see the hand, but is not very obvious, after the wash, the boundary becomes more visible, but still acceptable.
2) The HAND of gray T-Shirt is very obvious. The color of the rectangle is a little deeper than other area, and the feel is a little hard (see photo 2). After wash, the feel is become very soft, and the hand becomes lighter than other area, the boundary is more obvious than before wash (see photo 3).

I have several questions come to my head, and I can’t figure out why. Maybe somebody can answer my questions.
1) What is the best printer setting to get the best result? I can print use OKI 5400n Heavy mode (28-32lb) without any problem. Is this the best setting? Ken mentioned in link#182 using TRANSPARENCY could produce better quality. Should I change to TRANSPARENCY mode instead of my preferred setting?
2) What light color T-Shirt can produce ZERO HAND result? I test white T-Shirt, the result is OK, but besides white color T-Shirt, Can we also print the light color T-Shirt with ZERO HAND, because my experiments show the light color T-Shirt besides white is not very successful.
3) Can Teflon make the HAND disappear? I try use Teflon sheet for 6 more seconds after first press, but I can’t see the difference, the hand still stays there. I have very thin Teflon sheet, does this affect the result? Does the quality of Teflon sheet make big difference?

After all, I just want to find an easy and stable way to make T-Shirt with ZRO HAND.

Thanks,

p.s.
There are 3 photos below:
1) White T-Shirt without wash – The hand is not easy to see. 
1) Gray T-Shirt not wash yet. – The color of the rectangle is a little deeper
Gray T-Shirt wash once – The color of the rectangle become whiter, makes the boundary more clear,


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Falcolu:

Thank you for the detailed comments!

Let us begin getting you sorted out:
1. to correct your definitions, 'hand' is the feel of the transfer polymer on the shirt after pressing. I believe most of your comments relate to the visibility of the polymer.

2. I suggest your read very carefully the first entry in this thread. It is written by Jim (or CoolTech) down in (humid) Florida. He has taken us all through his step by step approach to testing DuraCotton HT.

If you were to follow such a process - testing and adjusting the time, temperature and pressure of your heat press - you will achieve ZERO Hand, ZERO Cutting. I appreciate the shirts you are using are different from those in North America but we do have many very favourable reports from the Asian marketplace.

We look forward to your on-going comments and success!

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## mrstitch

Ken:

I have a 100% Micropolyester white t-shirt? Will Duracotton print on this?

Thanks
Dean


----------



## jpop

Hi Ken,

Its Cyril here. I still have an unsolved problem. It's regarding the printer jam. I want to try my luck here to see if there's anyone to help me out.

Experts and experience users pls help me out below:

My friend helped me bought a OKI C3300 by mistake (we were supposed to buy C3400) When using the DuracottonHT, it jams the printer 10 out of 10 times no matter which paper mode I tried. Standard, Medium, Heavy and Glossy they all dun work out. Plus the printer driver doesnt allow me to select transparency. (see attached screenshot)

In the end, I have to cut out a small piece of normal A4 paper and paste in onto the top border of the duracottonht so that it can pass thru the fuser smoothly without much curling during the heating.

I have tried the printer printing 300++ pages of high quality printing of normal A4 paper with no problem at all.

What's the problem with my printer? Guys pls help.


----------



## charles95405

cyril...sorry I can't offer assistance but I have never used the 3300. I think Ken is at the show in Indianapolis this week...you might send him an email thru his website....AutoART DuraCotton heat transfer papers - transfer cotton, sublimate cotton I think there will be someone monitoring emails there...or call the phone number on the site. I am sure he will not mind


----------



## jpop

Hi Charles,

nice meeting you, Ken has actually already given me advice before by changing the paper setting to Glossy or transparency but Glossy didnt work out and there's no transparency option for my printer......I hope there's someone who knows a solution for this


----------



## falcolu

Hi, Ken:

I will say sorry first for my misunderstanding of the meaning of ZERO HAND, ZERO CUTTING. I will go back to read carefully and do the experiements more, I hope can product wonderful T-Shirt.

I try to repeat your definition again to make sure I truly understand.

ZERO HAND - the transfer is very soft, feel almost same as T-Shirt itself
ZERO CUTTING - there is no visible boundary in the transfer, so we will only see the image, but not the rectangle.


----------



## falcolu

Hi, Cyril:
I am also a new user of DuraCottonHT paper, and I find away to print without problem, you may try my setting to see any improvement.

1) Put the paper in the Multi-Purpose Tray
2) Set the MediaType to Heavy(28-32lbs)
3) Open the Rear paper output Tray, to send the printout to the back instead of top of the printer.
4) print

I hope this will help you


----------



## jpop

Hi there,

thx for the adv, but i have tried above exactly already, is there anyway that i can fine-tune the print such as the fuser? coz the paper always jam at the point


----------



## DuraCotton98

mrstitch said:


> Ken:
> 
> I have a 100% Micropolyester white t-shirt? Will Duracotton print on this?
> 
> Thanks
> Dean


Hi Dean:

I have tested using the t-shirt settings and, had great success.

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

jpop said:


> Hi there,
> 
> thx for the adv, but i have tried above exactly already, is there anyway that i can fine-tune the print such as the fuser? coz the paper always jam at the point


Hi Cyril:

Given your on-going heat (fuser) issues, there can two possible causes (that I am aware of):

1. defective fuser as it is running too hot in virtually all settings.

If your fuser is defective, and since the printer is new, simply call Oki and mention that the fuser is too hot for labels. Do not tell them you are running transfer paper. Oki will send you a new fuser at 'no charge'.


2. your source of electricity may be fluctuating such that the fuser runs hot. In this case, you could firstly test the power levels and if it is an issue, then purchase an auto-formatter to control the power. These are available at your local computer store. Obviously this is much easier than 'fixing' the hydro.

This may sound weird but it is happening particularly with HP laser printers.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## jpop

Hi Ken,

thanks for your prompt reply, I had never thought of these possibilities, I will check it out soon. Meanwhile, please kindly check your email, I have some other questions to be clarified. Thanks for your kind attention.


----------



## KCINNV

I've been trying to get samples of the DuraCotton Oil. I've sent e-mails, but haven't gotten a response back yet. Are reply e-mails sent out to let you know that your samples have been mailed?


----------



## everybodyknowme

I've read and researched duracotton quite a bit. I'm still a little confused on how exactly it works. So the only thing that actually fuses to the shirts is the printed part? There is no excess that gets fused to the shirt? With traditional heat transfer sheets, this is a problem and you must cut it off. Is there some special thing that I'm missing? thanks


----------



## charles95405

Everybodyknowme.... the first posts in this thread by cooltech pretty much says it. If properly pressed you should feel very little, if any hand, on the garment, but it must be white/ash..will not work on colors. If you some specific questions feel free to contact me offline or through PM or phone at my website


----------



## everybodyknowme

Thanks for clarifying. I'm so glad I found this!


----------



## jpop

guys,

I'm looking for a heat press for duracottonht
I came across this at eBay selling for $335, do you think it's good? i need some advise.


----------



## jpop

sorry to add the link
I was referring to this
Multifunctional Heat Press (4 in 1) - Heat Press Machine - Product Catalog - Shen Auto Technology (H.K.) Co., Limited


----------



## ivangeer

I am also using this press, i tried some tshirts, and for me its oke
Ivan


----------



## Ken Styles

Can the DuraCotton SUB be used withany sublimation inkjet printer? Would it have the same results as the laser version?


----------



## jpop

HI ivangeer

are you using it with Duracotton?


----------



## grumpster

jpop said:


> guys,
> 
> I'm looking for a heat press for duracottonht
> I came across this at eBay selling for $335, do you think it's good? i need some advise.


That press appears to be a knock off of the Knight DC16. Switching between adapters isn't very practical. It takes time and when the thing is hot, it'd difficult to handle without burning your self. You need separate presses for each use. Shirts, mugs, plates, and hats. 

Also, while I'm not familiar with this press in particular, many of the China presses are known to not have even heating. Some areas are hotter than others. With Dye-Sub you can get away with that, but with some of the more demanding transfer papers the uneven heating can cause problems. The statement that it needs to rest after one hour of use concerns me. A good press should be able to run all day with no problems. Also, it's temperature is in Celsiuses, so you would have to convert everything to degrees to make since of it.


----------



## charles95405

any heat press will work with Duracotton IF it is working properly.that is correct temperature and even pressure. I am not familiar with the press mentioned, but it is china made and your support for it may be weak..I just prefer something from a know source. Out vendors on here have good press. I think the mighty press is one that works well and is not expensive.

For KEN STYLES.... Big correction...Duracotton Sub is NOT FOR USE IN INKJET. this paper is for those who do sublimation and do not have a color laser. To use Duracotton Sub, you press the blank paper onto a cotton garment and remove, then press a sublimation print on top of the area pressed with Sub. This is a two step process and will give acceptable result but not as good as CLP. again this is only for white/ash colors. feel free to contact me at my website


----------



## jpop

HI D.J

thanx for your adv. Any guys out there has tried buying a press from China and it's good? pls recommend


----------



## jpop

Hi Charles,

I was discussing with my sales manager last night regarding sublimation when she mentioned that a large printer fty in malaysia is going to import a sublimation machine. Pls care to explain more on the submimation technique on how, why is it used. and pls adv what is CLP?


----------



## jpop

Ken,

by the way I have finally solve of paper jamming problem. It seems you are right new printer has higher temperature at its fuser. I have to set my paper settings to Ultra Heavy inorder for duracotton to pass thru smoothly.


----------



## SciFiBri

Hello all
I am using the duracotton, had the same problems as were listed earlier in the thread - thanks for the help! I need toner for my Oki 3200, was wondering whether anyone had bought non-OEM for their printer and was happy with it? Ever heard of "Media Science", one company offering toner?
BKB


----------



## charles95405

jpop...glad you have the issue resolved with Duracotton.. by the way CLC is color laser copier..CLP...color laser printer..for most of us I think

Now for your question on sublimation...In a nutshell...sublimation using special printer and special ink and special paper...you must be using the proper printer, ink and paper for it to work..when you print an image it will initially appear dull..but nice when pressed. The mechanics are you press the image (mirror image) on your garment for the specified period of time and the heat of the press (400 degrees F) turns the ink into a gas and the pressure - medium pressure and that pushes the gas into the garment and it adheres to the fiber of the material BUT...a big BUT...this will only work on white/ash polyester garments. Vaporware has some light colored garments that work well. The result is a garment with absolutely no hand.


----------



## jpop

Hi Charles
I got a very clear picture after your explanation. In long run, what do you think of Duracotton as compared to sublimation, can duracotton replace sublimation gearing towards no-hand? And in terms cost efficiency and quality, which is better?


----------



## charles95405

jpop.. I will send you a PM. Don't want to violate the forum rules on self promo


----------



## jpop

Clearly Got your message, *I'm happy to join the DuraCotton Family*


----------



## NicMartel

I read all 16 pages of this thread at one sitting... I am winded, and too tired to know what to ask...

...but I WILLBEBAK!

...nice thread... ...limited garment colors( I am a bit confused about that one - only white and ash?)... DuraCotton takes a bite out of the competition... still --> ...inkjet lives on... ...DTG lives on...


----------



## rrc62

I use duracotton HT and sublimation. Duracotton HT has a soft hand and vibrant colors. The polymer window will show on anything but white, but it is still my favorite paper so far. As for quality, as heat transfers go, I'll bet Duracotton is right up there at the top, but it would be hard to beat the quality of sublimation. I don't think any transfer process would compete with sublimation, but the sublimation blanks are a lot more expensive.

All in all, I think Duracotton HT and a laser printer probably offer the best balance between price and quality. There seems to be a lot of false advertising by equipment and materials manufacturers. Duracotton HT does exactly what it claims and if you follow the instruction, you will get consistent results right from your first print.


----------



## DuraCotton98

rrc62 said:


> I use duracotton HT and sublimation. Duracotton HT has a soft hand and vibrant colors. The polymer window will show on anything but white, but it is still my favorite paper so far. As for quality, as heat transfers go, I'll bet Duracotton is right up there at the top, but it would be hard to beat the quality of sublimation. I don't think any transfer process would compete with sublimation, but the sublimation blanks are a lot more expensive.
> 
> All in all, I think Duracotton HT and a laser printer probably offer the best balance between price and quality. There seems to be a lot of false advertising by equipment and materials manufacturers. Duracotton HT does exactly what it claims and if you follow the instruction, you will get consistent results right from your first print.


Ross:

Thank you!

have a great one!


----------



## roberts

thanks jim you answered ever question i was going to ask about a oki c3200


----------



## jpop

I have just done a dozen Tees with DuraCottonHT, for those who like to see more on the quality, you may see find samples over at my blog site via the link underneath my signature.


----------



## charles95405

Nice work Cyril...glad to have you aboard


----------



## MYDAMIT

Nice shirt,nice design and i love the naruto shirt....what size of paper you used?what is your printer model?


----------



## jpop

I merely used letter size prints and Oki 3300
those A3 full-sized prints are being done by merging


----------



## Ezekiel33Graphic

jpop said:


> I have just done a dozen Tees with DuraCottonHT, for those who like to see more on the quality, you may see find samples over at my blog site via the link underneath my signature.


Hi Cyril,
nice job on the shirts. I noticed that you use the E-Junkie shopping cart & I was curious as to how you like it? Is it easy to use? I was thinking about trying it out. It sounds like it is a simple format with lots of capabilities?


----------



## jpop

The shopping cart i'm using is known as fatfreecart
recommend only for small sites like blogs, not very expandable but reliable and very easy to use.


----------



## NicMartel

Cyril... Thank you for this post... real results thru real examples as you present speak the loudest and clearest... I am about to buy all my equipment (2K) so I am carefull to ask many questions... Can you tell us what equipment was used to produce these 12 T-Shirts? Thank you.

Printer: Oki 3300
ink:
Press:
Pressure:
time:
T-Shirt Brand:
T-Shirt Model:
A3 sizes were merged/'montaged'
anything else: ...


----------



## jpop

It seems you have been doing some serious homeworks.

here's my ans below

Printer: Oki 3300
ink: *comes with the printer*
Press: *a 50kg 15"X15" swing away press bought in China which cost me only USD$320*
Pressure: *Pressure is manually adjusted, a little more than 3/4*
time: *15 secs, but i feel that 13 secs will do a nice job for small size print*
T-Shirt Brand: *I have my own garment fty doing 90% babyGap orders, I made my own Tees using the same baby fabric from there.*
T-Shirt Model: Same as above.
A3 sizes were merged/'montaged'


----------



## jpop

Apart from above, actually I feel washing is quite crucial. After my carrier peel I actually pull and stretch my fabric while hot to get softer handfeel and make use of washing to actually shrink back the fiber grains. As a result, after washed, the print can actually stretch with the fabric grains to its maximum without any cracking sound and yet able to bounce back to it's original state, this is actually being described in detail in my blog.


----------



## NicMartel

Cyril, thank you for these invaluable responses.


----------



## sells2eat

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum but have been using DuraCottonHT with my OKI 3200 for about 6 months now. Although the output print quality and colors are excellent, I'm a bit concerned about the wash performance. I find that especially after 2 washings the once dark blacks and deep blues have lost their original color by at least 15-20%. I'm considering buying a 3400 as I'm reading that wash performance is better with the HD toner offered in this model coupled with the DuracottonHT paper.

BTW, I love all the other characterisics of this paper but again wash performance is an issue.

Anyone care to comment. I'd appreciate the feedback

Regards,
Seth Glassman
Imprintable Impressions


----------



## jpop

I have tried washing my garments twice but dun feel any fading in dark colors print. My saturation settings is neutral (0)


----------



## inkie

sells2eat said:


> I'm considering buying a 3400 as I'm reading that wash performance is better with the HD toner offered in this model coupled with the DuracottonHT paper.



Uh-oh - now I'm freaking out - was just about to buy an Oki 3400 (or 5500) this week due to BIG rebates at Staples...the 3400 has a different kind of toner than the 3200?!? Has anyone used the 3400 with Duracotton or Imageclip?

Thanks!


----------



## gbishop

I have the 3400 and have used both ImageClip and DuraCottonHT with excellent resutls.

George


----------



## inkie

gbishop said:


> I have the 3400 and have used both ImageClip and DuraCottonHT with excellent resutls.
> 
> George


Whew! Thank you, George.

Inkie


----------



## NicMartel

edwin 98... 

I too was looking at the Okidata BUT!!! I am trying to use the High temp HTCL-8 from BESTBLANKS...and it says to avoid OKIDATA printers because they fuse too hot... will melt the paper?... now that is for dark garment imprinting with the 2 step process... 1st fusing the opaque backing to transfer before transfering it to garment? Any comments?


----------



## sells2eat

George,

How has the wash performance been with the OKI 3400 and DuraCotton HT paper. Can you compare it to the OKI 3200 w/ DuraCotton?
Thanks,
Seth


----------



## jpop

Urgent call to all experts in this forum.

Urgent help needed here,

I have a Gap Order abt 5,000 pcs of finished garment which requires heat transfer printing. But all the garments are in dark colors: Raw Indigo, Black, Dark Heather. Since it's an International Brand, quality and washability is a must, pls adv which opaque transfer paper is available which requires no cutting and must not fade and withstand to washing.

Handfeel must be either very soft(I dun expect no hand can be achieved at this moment) or like the usual screen print.

This is a great chance, I can help you promote in future saying that GAP uses your heat transfer carrier.

Vendors if see this message, confident in supporting, pls PM me.


----------



## jpop

I heard DuraCottonHT has a dark coming soon, has there anyone tried out yet already?


----------



## edwin 98

NicMartel said:


> edwin 98...
> 
> I too was looking at the Okidata BUT!!! I am trying to use the High temp HTCL-8 from BESTBLANKS...and it says to avoid OKIDATA printers because they fuse too hot... will melt the paper?... now that is for dark garment imprinting with the 2 step process... 1st fusing the opaque backing to transfer before transfering it to garment? Any comments?


I do not know what to tell you. The OKI printers work well with DuraCotton HT. My guess is that HTCL-8 is like DuraCotton OIL and has a low melting temp. As far as I know the fusers on the OKI printers do not run any hotter thaan the fursers of Samsung and HP printers. I know DuraCotton HT works on the Xerox 240 and 250 copiers. Ask Best Blanks if HTCL-8 works on any copiers.
Big Ed


----------



## NicMartel

BESTBLANKS DOES NOT RECOMMEND OKI PRINTERS NOR ONE OF THE HP PRINTERS... and the heads on OKI do run hotter... but many people still use OKIs with various results...


----------



## Lnfortun

edwin 98 said:


> I do not know what to tell you. The OKI printers work well with DuraCotton HT. My guess is that HTCL-8 is like DuraCotton OIL and has a low melting temp. As far as I know the fusers on the OKI printers do not run any hotter thaan the fursers of Samsung and HP printers. I know DuraCotton HT works on the Xerox 240 and 250 copiers. Ask Best Blanks if HTCL-8 works on any copiers.
> Big Ed


HTCL-8 is actually Techniprint. It is just the number that Bestblanks assigned to it. Some users claim that it is hard to peel and cracks as well.


----------



## NicMartel

Edwin 98 - #258

Ed, the HTCL-8 from BESTBLANKS is high heat non-fuser oil and not supposed to work with Okidata printers and Canon Image Runner 3200 I will confirm that and add any other comments... I just found that in my hand-written notes...

I am green and talking off the top of my head... I understand that old technology was the oil fusers... the oil effectively keeps the fusers cooler... and new thechnology is non oil...


----------



## Lnfortun

jpop said:


> Urgent call to all experts in this forum.
> 
> Urgent help needed here,
> 
> I have a Gap Order abt 5,000 pcs of finished garment which requires heat transfer printing. But all the garments are in dark colors: Raw Indigo, Black, Dark Heather. Since it's an International Brand, quality and washability is a must, pls adv which opaque transfer paper is available which requires no cutting and must not fade and withstand to washing.
> 
> Handfeel must be either very soft(I dun expect no hand can be achieved at this moment) or like the usual screen print.
> 
> This is a great chance, I can help you promote in future saying that GAP uses your heat transfer carrier.
> 
> Vendors if see this message, confident in supporting, pls PM me.


Use plasitsol transfer paper. It would be you best option with that qunatity. It gets cheaper per piece in volume pricing. There are several vendors that will be able to help you.


----------



## LORI

Is The Clc Duracotton Ht Something New I've Tried Duracotton 98 No Luck Duracotton Ht And No Luck With Two Printers.


----------



## NicMartel

CLC Color Laser Copier instead of Printer! right?


----------



## DuraCotton98

LORI said:


> Is The Clc Duracotton Ht Something New I've Tried Duracotton 98 No Luck Duracotton Ht And No Luck With Two Printers.


Hi Lori:

Pls contact me directly and we will get you sorted out.

Simply go to the AutoART site and use the email box.

Thanks in advance

have a great one!


----------



## jpop

Hi lnfortun,

thx, I have already found some locally.


----------



## ivangeer

I just received my 16x20 hotronix press, oki 8800n. I tried both with duracotton HT and......
A perfect combination. I pressed 20 tshirts for the BOnaire Regatta.
I am now out of paper. Have to order some again. 
Ivan


----------



## DuraCotton98

ivangeer said:


> I just received my 16x20 hotronix press, oki 8800n. I tried both with duracotton HT and......
> A perfect combination. I pressed 20 tshirts for the BOnaire Regatta.
> I am now out of paper. Have to order some again.
> Ivan


Hi Ivan:

Thank you for the feedback and kind words!

If you are running 50-50s, check out DuraCottonGOOF

have a great one!


----------



## jpop

Guys,

I need a high quality brown paper (teflon)
is there anyone out there with extra care to sell me
vis US Post Office?


----------



## jolafrancis

Hey howdy people...
Is there any DuraCotton HT user in the Los Angeles area?
I'm in the uK but will be out in the states for a couple of weeks and would love to see this product first hand (excuse the pun) and see the zero hand and vibrant colours and beable to compare it to others technologies I've seen/encounterd on my travels


----------



## deniseg

jolafrancis said:


> Hey howdy people...
> Is there any DuraCotton HT user in the Los Angeles area?
> I'm in the uK but will be out in the states for a couple of weeks and would love to see this product first hand (excuse the pun) and see the zero hand and vibrant colours and beable to compare it to others technologies I've seen/encounterd on my travels


hi Jola did u get my message that the paper from America is smaller then we get thier A4 is shorter just thought u might want to know as u will have to reset your settings =) duracotton sent from Canada is the same as ours =)


----------



## jolafrancis

Sure did Denise, thanks a million...
Guess that's a case of Letter vs A4 paper sizes.
Off to the states this week, so hopefully this transfer paper matter will be resolved once and for all!!


----------



## deniseg

cool well have a lovely hol =) and Duracotton solved my probs =) just can't wait till they bring out their paper for Dk cols =)


----------



## jpop

I'm currently trying out HT with a kind of soft plastic paper which will thicken and hardened upon heating, wish me luck


----------



## kmyck1

Ken -

I am back to having problems with the paper. If the temperature in my work area is a bit cooler would that affect pressing? I am using the Hotronix auto clam 16x20 at 408F for 20 sec, heavy pressure. It was working before and now it's not. Any suggestions???

I am in a real bind. I have 30 shirts that I have to get out by Saturday and I am burning through shirts and paper.

Thanks,
Kimberly


----------



## NicMartel

I say... outsource them to someone who has it down-pat... to make sure your customer is put first!!! Then go on about facing your tribulations... One order outsourced is not going to kill your revenues... a missed opportunity on a client will cost you much more.


----------



## rrc62

kmyck1 said:


> Ken -
> 
> 
> I am in a real bind. I have 30 shirts that I have to get out by Saturday and I am burning through shirts and paper.


You answered your own question. 20 seconds is too long. I use the same temp and pressure for 15 seconds. Is that 408* measured or are you trusting the readout on the press? I find that a true 405-410, heavy pressure for 15 seconds works every time.


----------



## kmyck1

rrc62 said:


> You answered your own question. 20 seconds is too long. I use the same temp and pressure for 15 seconds. Is that 408* measured or are you trusting the readout on the press? I find that a true 405-410, heavy pressure for 15 seconds works every time.


It's the read out on the press. I used the 408F, 20 seconds with heavy pressure before at the suggestion of another poster and it worked perfectly after my many other varied attempts failed.

I am thinking that the temperature in the work area may be what is causing the problem since it is about 20 degrees cooler than before.

This is for a breast cancer charity - so I am not will to pay to outsource them. I have already paid for the shirts and supplies as a donation.

Thanks,
Kimberly


----------



## DuraCotton98

kmyck1 said:


> It's the read out on the press. I used the 408F, 20 seconds with heavy pressure before at the suggestion of another poster and it worked perfectly after my many other varied attempts failed.
> 
> I am thinking that the temperature in the work area may be what is causing the problem since it is about 20 degrees cooler than before.
> 
> This is for a breast cancer charity - so I am not will to pay to outsource them. I have already paid for the shirts and supplies as a donation.
> 
> Thanks,
> Kimberly


Hi Kimberly:

Having read your issue, there is a change in the temp somewhere - either the heat press itself or the room temp or .... Where the change is - is not important.

You simply need to take the heat press temp up a bit until you are pressing perfectly again. You might try another 5 F degrees - that should resolve your issue.

And, like the other comment, I think 20 seconds is too long. Personnally, I use 14 - 15 seconds. But, get your job done using 20 seconds and then test your settings again.

I know some people prefer to use about 20 seconds and do not hit again for 4 - 5 seconds with the teflon (c). I prefer the two hit method.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## jolafrancis

People?!
Are there really no duraCotton users in the Los angeles area? 
Hopefully if you are out there kindly let me know to widen my scope are there any in the Chicago area? As i'll be out there during this trip as well.

Thanks for your time and help i'd really like to get some samples done, i've got my images and all. 
Enjoy!!
And yes i am enjoying day one of my trip, great bring shout out to the west coast!!!!


----------



## vlcnmstr

ok wel, 
I live in LA, have a package of HT but with work (around 85 hours a week) haven't had time to play with it as I want to -- as well as no time to meet up with people lately. 
So can't 'technically' say i'm a user....


----------



## DuraCotton98

Are you using DuraCotton papers to print mugs?

This morning (Monday) I received a call from someone who successfully printed mugs (scratch resistant, dishwasher safe). The color, as reported, is equal to or better than sublimation (black-blacks, perfectly straight lines and text without bleeding, ...).

Cost per half-wrap is about 10 cents US$ (end-user pricing) plus the mug.

That got me wondering how many others are printing mugs? Are you?

have a great one!

Ken


----------



## NicMartel

DuraCotton98 said:


> Are you using DuraCotton papers to print mugs?
> 
> This morning (Monday) I received a call from someone who successfully printed mugs (scratch resistant, dishwasher safe). The color, as reported, is equal to or better than sublimation (black-blacks, perfectly straight lines and text without bleeding, ...).
> 
> Cost per half-wrap is about 10 cents US$ (end-user pricing) plus the mug.
> 
> That got me wondering how many others are printing mugs? Are you?
> 
> have a great one!
> 
> Ken


 
I am sorry, but I have a hard time trusting your post. ALL information I have gotten so far about hard surfaces has been contrary to what your post proposes.
Such results would render sublimation inks a useless expensive proposition.

You say "...better than sublimation..." That implies that no sub ink/toner!!! was used. 

Can you provide detailed parameters as to what exactly was used? 

For one like me with limted funds, going with the wrong printer/method will mean I have a boat anchor and no boat.

Can you back your post with the source? exact parameters? testing data?
Dishwasher safe means that the design remains essentially the same for 1 year+ as it does with sublimation and I am being conservative... it is actually much longer.

NOTHING I have read supports that this can be sone with other than sublimation!!! Every post I have seen states that the design will scratch over a few washes and also will lose substantial vibrancy ON FIRST WASH! unless sublimated!

Could you help me understand better? Are they over-coating it, perhaps?
Is there data to show the results are solid?

I will want to have one of those items sent to me, to see for myself, no doubt.

I hope you understand my concern.


----------



## DuraCotton98

NicMartel said:


> I am sorry, but I have a hard time trusting your post. ALL information I have gotten so far about hard surfaces has been contrary to what your post proposes.
> Such results would render sublimation inks a useless expensive proposition.
> 
> You say "...better than sublimation..." That implies that no sub ink/toner!!! was used.
> 
> Can you provide detailed parameters as to what exactly was used?
> 
> For one like me with limted funds, going with the wrong printer/method will mean I have a boat anchor and no boat.
> 
> Can you back your post with the source? exact parameters? testing data?
> Dishwasher safe means that the design remains essentially the same for 1 year+ as it does with sublimation and I am being conservative... it is actually much longer.
> 
> NOTHING I have read supports that this can be sone with other than sublimation!!! Every post I have seen states that the design will scratch over a few washes and also will lose substantial vibrancy ON FIRST WASH! unless sublimated!
> 
> Could you help me understand better? Are they over-coating it, perhaps?
> Is there data to show the results are solid?
> 
> I will want to have one of those items sent to me, to see for myself, no doubt.
> 
> I hope you understand my concern.


Hi Nic:

Our customer used DuraCottonGOOF paper printed on an Oki color printer (with regular toner). He is forwarding pictures within a day or three. We will post upon receipt.

We are aware of the settings used and, will post along with the pictures.

Over the 9 months that DuraCotton HT and now DuraCottonGOOF have been available, we have heard of quite a few transfer operators using our papers for metals and mugs. I am hoping that several such users will reveal their results etc.

Let me assure you durability of color, dishwasher and scratching are not issues with the process used. An overcoating of the mug is not required. Of course, just like sublimation (mugs), a mug press is required - though with DuraCottonGOOF, the time is considerably less. For metals etc, a t-shirt heat press is required.

have a great one!


----------



## vlcnmstr

My personal experience is that sublimation fades VERY quickly in the dishwasher. I used to do it but found that when left for the full cycle of a normal washer, the drying cycle was hot enough to resublimate the dyes out of the mug coating. That combined with the requirement for poly or poly blend fabrics turned me off it a while back.
I HAVE done transfers to both coated and non coated mugs with laser printed transfers and when done right they really ARE more vibrant and lasting than sublimation. The biggest difference I see is that laser leaves a layer that some don't quite fancy, somewhat like a decal but I had to take a knife and really scrape hard to remove any transfer, the same would remove the sub coating on dye sub....
SO,less expensive, more vibrant, wider range of substrates with no prep as well as OEM toner so I can print a transfer and then the invoice without changing toner cartridges.
I like it.
djl


----------



## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> My personal experience is that sublimation fades VERY quickly in the dishwasher. I used to do it but found that when left for the full cycle of a normal washer, the drying cycle was hot enough to resublimate the dyes out of the mug coating. That combined with the requirement for poly or poly blend fabrics turned me off it a while back.
> I HAVE done transfers to both coated and non coated mugs with laser printed transfers and when done right they really ARE more vibrant and lasting than sublimation. The biggest difference I see is that laser leaves a layer that some don't quite fancy, somewhat like a decal but I had to take a knife and really scrape hard to remove any transfer, the same would remove the sub coating on dye sub....
> SO,less expensive, more vibrant, wider range of substrates with no prep as well as OEM toner so I can print a transfer and then the invoice without changing toner cartridges.
> I like it.
> djl


Hi DJL:

My understanding is there is NO visible layer left on the mug by the DuraCotton polymer. All your other points, I agree with you 100%, including the resublimation in the dishwasher (in our testing, the resublimation also varies with the mug coating hardness).

have a great one!


----------



## vlcnmstr

yes true, the 'layer' I was talking about was from the actual thickness of the toner-- so it's very minimal but still more than sub. The only real difference I have seen. I have done photos on mugs with both and laser is more lasting -- especially when no one pays attention to instructions and displays them in sunlight. Laser - no fade. Sub - gone in a couple days/weeks depending on where you live.


----------



## vlcnmstr

bte, Just read about the "goof" paper.
Now, is this going to be remade once the "goof" batch is gone and sold 'with' the wash enhancers? i.e. return to duracotton purple as intended?


----------



## NicMartel

Man! you folks have now turned me on my head... Now I am really really confused... why have not heard all of what is covered since post #283 ??? What is the big OOP LAH about freaking sublimation, then? *[email protected]#*&!(@$*$

I finally made up my mind that I would at least produce the sublimated portion of my requirement myself and was about to purchase my first equipment and batch of ink!!!

...have rarely been confronted with such inconsistencies!

I do thank you for your posts. They may have saved me from leaping the wrong way... or at least caused me to dig deeper.


----------



## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> bte, Just read about the "goof" paper.
> Now, is this going to be remade once the "goof" batch is gone and sold 'with' the wash enhancers? i.e. return to duracotton purple as intended?


Hi Vlcnmstr:

We will not return to the name DuraCotton Purple. You may have to read between the lines.

have a great one!


----------



## vlcnmstr

ok, so, me being a dense person (I miss the simple things easily but get the hard concepts fast)
the name will stay at goof, but the paper has the full washability now?
right?
as ricky said to lucy 
"Splain it to me pluz"

djl


----------



## diane143

vlcnmstr said:


> "Splain it to me pluz"
> 
> djl


I don't think they are ready to yet.


----------



## DuraCotton98

vlcnmstr said:


> ok, so, me being a dense person (I miss the simple things easily but get the hard concepts fast)
> the name will stay at goof, but the paper has the full washability now?
> right?
> as ricky said to lucy
> "Splain it to me pluz"
> 
> djl


Hi DJL:

DuraCottonGOOF works great with 50-50 polycotton blends. It is not for 100% cotton.

We are fixing the GOOF and we will call it by a new name. Given this opportunity, we are doing a few other things with the paper as well. When these changes take place, our research indicates a favourable market response.

'til then, my lips are sealed...

have great one!


----------



## Dyenamic Rex

I do not like to correct Ken (autoart 98) but the paper used for Mugs was not DuraCotton Goof. AutoArt US has modified some older DuraCotton paper to do mugs. They are calling it DuraCotton MUG and as soon as the person who made the mugs send me pictures I will post them


----------



## Alan

NicMartel said:


> Man! you folks have now turned me on my head... Now I am really really confused... why have not heard all of what is covered since post #283 ??? What is the big OOP LAH about freaking sublimation, then? *[email protected]#*&!(@$*$
> 
> I finally made up my mind that I would at least produce the sublimated portion of my requirement myself and was about to purchase my first equipment and batch of ink!!!
> 
> ...have rarely been confronted with such inconsistencies!
> 
> I do thank you for your posts. They may have saved me from leaping the wrong way... or at least caused me to dig deeper.


Whoa now, don't make such a quick decision just yet. Sublimation isn't a technology so much as it is a natural phenomenon. By opening up the pores of a substrate and DYEing the fibers you achieve the MOST durable image possible. Similar color laser transfers like Multi-trans, image clip, and likely duracotton are literally transfered on top of the substrate and can always be scratched off. 

For sublimation, as far as fading in the sun/heat goes, the process occurs between 320 to 420 degrees F. So unless it's 300 degrees outside it's gonna take a good long while to fade. I've been looking at a sublimated license plate on a car at work every morning for like a year now. 

Just from my own experience, (I work in print services for a large distributor) color laser transfers are the way to go for unique transfers to wood (multi-trans) and crystal (image clip), but for ceramics, porcelains, and synthetics, sublimation is the top choice.


----------



## charles95405

For info...I am doing test on sublimated products in the sun...and I have a tile that was sublimated 6 months ago and I sprayed with clear coat...like what the auto body folks put on the cars to protect the paint...and when that goes you get the white stuff showing on the car...so far the tile is looking good after 6 months in the california sun

I also did a polymer coated tile with duracotton and it looks pretty good. I will post a photo later when I am at the office. It is not quite as vivid as sublimation and not as smooth to the touch..


----------



## rrc62

I've had a sublimated license plate on my truck for a year and it still looks great. No fading. I think some of these fading issues may come from poor quality imprintables and/or inks. I don't cut corners on either one.


----------



## NicMartel

I feel rescued... t.y.

ooooooooo! a new laser paper for mugs... so that explains it(mostly).

Alan set the sublimation fading at such high temp that now I am battling with previous info I read that set that temp at 75F. And the same post stated that the UV were not the problem, but the heat itself. Thus a car plate would fade away rapidly even if parked in the shade. ...and I had made a comment to the effect that body temp(98.6) would be murder to a Soft L'Ink sublimated shirt! lol ...what do you think of that?

But Charles' and Ross' examples are true real life proof that a sublimated(no top UV coat?) item will survive nicely. To me real life examples prevail.

...but I can't help to speculate lol
So, Alan I understand that the fact that the sublimation process causes the ink to penetrate the poly substrate would imply a better scenario over any surface process, but if(AND IF) UV are also part of the degradation, the UV has the power to reach the ink even if encapsulated and change its chemical composition and render it permeable to light, thus fade it. ...and assuming that the sublimation inks are more UV prone than other inks/toners, then it would lose. (???)

As of these latest posts I hold on to that laser transfers(faked sublimation so to speak) will not look as crisp nor be as scratch resistant, than sublimated imprints.
...and I am assuming that the laser job is done on a non-poly-coated mug?


----------



## Dyenamic Rex

Hi All I said I would upload the photos as soon as I got them. So here goes


----------



## charles95405

To follow up with a previous post I made about doing coated tiles using duracotton HT...attached is a photo of two tiles...the one on the left is a coated tile with sublimation ink/paper. The one on the right is a coated tile with duracotton HT. There is a bit of texture with the duracotton, but not a great deal.


----------



## vlcnmstr

Then I will have to find the old samples I tried. as I did two small christmas ornaments with dye sub. One I set in the window (southwest facing) the other is in some envelope. The window one faded within a week to almost nothing. THe other -- if found -- hadn't faded much. Perhaps technique? perhaps ink? I had also set a laser mug in the window at the same time and there was no fading at all.
Perhaps I should repeat the test again. Perhaps it was older ink technology?
I had used an Alps printer with their sub tapes. The transfer printed well, transfered almost 100% of the ink and worked well for the 'one off' mugs I did for friends. But I did warn them of the fading so they keep them in cupboards or on display sheves out of direct light to minimize fade.
I honestly have no experience with the "newer" inks. I figure sub is sub. 
That's why I am here -- to learn more or the reality of these technologies before sinking lots o' moola into the right tech for what I would be doing.
djl


----------



## vlcnmstr

so, this was the mug paper with a regular no coated mug?
hmmm


----------



## Dyenamic Rex

Charles: I have also tried DuraCotton HT on Mugs and Tiles. I found the same roughness that is why I have never made Mugs with the DuraCotton HT. The new DuraCotton MUG does not leave that roughness. I have tried to scratch the mug with a key using light pressure and it did not scratch. When I used very heavy pressure with the key I was able to scratch it. I have already used the dishwasher once and I will continue dish washing this mug everytime we wash dishes. I have been told that the amount of toner used on a half wrap mug is less than 5¢ and the DuraCotton MUG paper is under 10¢.


----------



## SICK

Off topic, but I have been trying to buy a box of this stuff from Frank in Ontario, he replied really quickly with the prices a couple of days ago, I asked him to invoice me for a box with shipping via paypal (twice) but no reply. Does anyone else sell this in Canada closer to Toronto Ontario?


----------



## rrc62

Dyenamic Rex said:


> I have been told that the amount of toner used on a half wrap mug is less than 5¢ and the DuraCotton MUG paper is under 10¢.


Your Duracotton numbers are right on, but just so we're comparing apples to apples...If you break down paper costs per square inch, Duracotton comes t .006 cents per Sq/In or .05 for a 4"x4" print. I'll assume your estimate of .o5 per print is correct. Sublimation paper would cost .002 per Sq/In or .003 for a 4"x4" print. Using bulk Artanium ink, costs are 1.5 cents per Sq/In or .24 per print.

So the total cost to print a mug with HT looks like .15 and sublimation looks like .27. Having the means to do both and given the high quality of sublimation, I would not use a transfer paper on a mug for that little bit of saving.

Those estimates also assume you are not wasting any paper, which we all know is not really possible. Since sublimation paper costs less, the more paper you waste in the process of printing and trimming out the 4"x4" print, the closer the two processes get in total cost.

I'm not knocking DuracottonHT at all. It is actually my paper pf choice for cotton and 50/50 shirts. I'm just a believer in using the right tool/product for the job at hand.


----------



## denny

SICK said:


> Off topic, but I have been trying to buy a box of this stuff from Frank in Ontario, he replied really quickly with the prices a couple of days ago, I asked him to invoice me for a box with shipping via paypal (twice) but no reply. Does anyone else sell this in Canada closer to Toronto Ontario?


Shawn, 
Have you found our emails yet. Jeff the accountant has informed me he has emailed you twice with the invoice for you to approve before the post and I also forwarded of the email a copy to you last night after I read it. Get back to me, and let's get you printing. 
Regards
Frank


----------



## Alan

Hey Nic,

It's true that heat more so than UV eventually causes fading. About UV resistance, all I know is that the latest Artanium inks are UV+ and made to be more resistant to UV rays, but how much more I don't have a relative idea yet.

I can't speak for duracotton going on coated or non coated surfaces. All I know is that all the other color laser transfers I'm aware of (multi-trans, image clip) require non coated surfaces, so I could only assume duracotton might be the same way.


----------



## SICK

denny said:


> Shawn,
> Have you found our emails yet. Jeff the accountant has informed me he has emailed you twice with the invoice for you to approve before the post and I also forwarded of the email a copy to you last night after I read it. Get back to me, and let's get you printing.
> Regards
> Frank


I got your email last night and replied asking for your paypal address, you didn't get it? I never got any emails from Jeff before. Man, this is fustrating!

Sent you a email via this system to call me. Thanx!


----------



## MYDAMIT

Dyenamic Rex said:


> Charles: I have also tried DuraCotton HT on Mugs and Tiles. I found the same roughness that is why I have never made Mugs with the DuraCotton HT. The new DuraCotton MUG does not leave that roughness. I have tried to scratch the mug with a key using light pressure and it did not scratch. When I used very heavy pressure with the key I was able to scratch it. I have already used the dishwasher once and I will continue dish washing this mug everytime we wash dishes. I have been told that the amount of toner used on a half wrap mug is less than 5¢ and the DuraCotton MUG paper is under 10¢.[/quote
> 
> Where do you buy duracotton Mug i cnnot find in die-namic.com site. Can i used my xerox phaser 6180n.


----------



## jpop

hi Ken and all.
there's a new discovery which everyone must cautious of for the HT.

after the pressing and everything, during the 1st wash, pls wash the apparel in water only without any washing agent added. 

I have made a couple of experiments in the past few days, certain washing agents has chemical reactions with the polymer resulting the polymer to turn yellow. To prevent such, simply pre-wash the printed garment with just water for abt 20-30 mins. 

After that, any washing agent added during the 2nd wash will have minimal effect on it or almost none.

I lost 15 garments because of this but after correcting it, the hand and the polymer will just get softer and more invisible after each wash.


----------



## go10go4

Does the DuraCotton Mug require a mug press, or can it be done in an oven similar to dye sub? I had a mug press for dye sub, but found that the oven transfer worked quite well also.


----------



## Dyenamic Rex

go10go4 said:


> Does the DuraCotton Mug require a mug press, or can it be done in an oven similar to dye sub? I had a mug press for dye sub, but found that the oven transfer worked quite well also.


Send me the Time and Temp and I will try it.

Big Ed


----------



## NicMartel

jpop said:


> ...
> I have made a couple of experiments in the past few days, certain washing agents has chemical reactions with the polymer resulting the polymer to turn yellow. To prevent such, simply pre-wash the printed garment with just water for abt 20-30 mins.
> ...


I just washed a white Gildan 100% Cotton Blend in a GENERIC Regular liquid detergent... had no problem.(turning yellow)
I clarify that I left the shirt -dry- for over a week before washing it.

What are you using for detergent, that would cause such a problem?

Are we going to have to include nuke-proof wash instructions with T-Shirts?
I find that a bit dicey!

No discoloration occured that is blatantly noticeable; one must look and compare to discern any fading.


----------



## Lnfortun

NicMartel said:


> I just washed a white Gildan 100% Cotton Blend in a GENERIC Regular liquid detergent... had no problem.(turning yellow)
> I clarify that I left the shirt -dry- for over a week before washing it.
> 
> What are you using for detergent, that would cause such a problem?
> 
> Are we going to have to include nuke-proof wash instructions with T-Shirts?
> I find that a bit dicey!
> 
> No discoloration occured that is blatantly noticeable; one must look and compare to discern any fading.


Try reading Jpop's post again. She is talking about the Duracotton HT polymer turning yellow. Not the shirt itself.


----------



## NicMartel

That is the way I interpreted it... my (turning yellow) refers to the polymer indeed...

But thank you for pointing it out.

o! and my second comment is separate... I was just saying that I got a good result on the fading as a +.


----------



## Lnfortun

NicMartel said:


> That is the way I interpreted it... my (turning yellow) refers to the polymer indeed...
> 
> But thank you for pointing it out.
> 
> o! and my second comment is separate... I was just saying that I got a good result on the fading as a +.


I am sorry I did not know that you are pressing shirts already. I thought that you are still undecided on what system to use based on some of your post that I red.


----------



## DuraCotton98

jpop said:


> hi Ken and all.
> there's a new discovery which everyone must cautious of for the HT.
> 
> after the pressing and everything, during the 1st wash, pls wash the apparel in water only without any washing agent added.
> 
> I have made a couple of experiments in the past few days, certain washing agents has chemical reactions with the polymer resulting the polymer to turn yellow. To prevent such, simply pre-wash the printed garment with just water for abt 20-30 mins.
> 
> After that, any washing agent added during the 2nd wash will have minimal effect on it or almost none.
> 
> I lost 15 garments because of this but after correcting it, the hand and the polymer will just get softer and more invisible after each wash.


Hi Cyril:

Over the years, I have investigated a handful of shirts where the polymer has yellowed. In the early days, we sold a major brand of paper, and more recently (last 7 years), our own DuraCotton polymers.

Each time, we learned it was iron in the water and or dirty water. Of course, the polymer has always been blamed though it was never at fault.

I like your idea of a without soap wash. This 'fixes' the polymer even better before the war with soap begins. Great idea!

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

go10go4 said:


> Does the DuraCotton Mug require a mug press, or can it be done in an oven similar to dye sub? I had a mug press for dye sub, but found that the oven transfer worked quite well also.


Hi Larry:

Oven transfer using The DuraCotton paper should work fine. The only challenge is to identify how long and at what temperature to press the paper before removing it (and the mug wrap).

Watch for when the image saturates into the paper. This indicates too much time.

Remove the paper and mug wrap, then place again in the oven for 'fixing' (about 5 - 10 minutes at 350 - 400 F degrees).

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## NicMartel

*Warning!* Before attempting to wash any heat transfer garment replace your ole iron plumbin and install a rust filter. Muhahhahhahha...
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aside of the joke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
*DuracottonHT Polymer ghost... on white 100% Gildan shirt.*
Pre-wash: Outside of the design(polymer areas), I can tell the fabric was 'painted' but not discolored(white).
1st wash: I noticed the ghost left by the polymer did soften a bit and is only noticeable when focusing really close and only because it gives the fabric a 'painted' look.
*Color fading*:
I think letting a heat transfer cure at normal room temp for a week seems to help the fading(of the color) issue. I don't know how it will continue to hold, but my first impression is good. I suspect that many reports of heavy fading on 1st wash were made worse by hastingly putting a too recently pressed garment in the wash. Anyone? corroborate this assumption?
*DuracottonMUG (hard surfaces)*:
I am not sold on the DuraMUG versus sublimation. The cost difference does not justify the loss of quality. But the debate is still open as to exactly how good the laser xfer will hold to a few washes and bumps!

*

*


----------



## rrc62

NicMartel said:


> fading on 1st wash were made worse by hastingly putting a too recently pressed garment in the wash. Anyone? corroborate this assumption?


I've thrown them in the wash hours after pressing them. I think the fading has a lot to do with improper pressing.


----------



## DuraCotton98

rrc62 said:


> I've thrown them in the wash hours after pressing them. I think the fading has a lot to do with improper pressing.


Ross:

I totally agree with you. It is critical - just like with any transfer product - to properly heat press the transfer.

Thank you!

have a great one!


----------



## NicMartel

good, my theory is shot to shreddddds.

I don't know how to really put my next question in such a way that I would get the best accurate feel as the answer does in great part rest in the eye of the beholder. But here we go, I have to try at least:

Context: Sublimation versus a Duracotton(100%) imprint

How many washes would you say a nice sublimated white Hanes Soft L'ink imprint will take before one will step the shirt...

...from:
'I am trying to look neat and shining because that girl will be there, and I don't want her to think I am a slob, or so poor I can't even afford a nice t-shirt?
(Sub: 1 wash) (Dura: 1 wash)

...to: 
'I can wear this shirt daily, like my ole comfy faded t-shirt that still passes the acceptable pre-slob level'
(Sub: ## washes?) (Dura: ## washes?)

...to: 
'I am but a *******, I don't give a shlitz'
(Sub: ## washes?) (Dura: ## washes?)

...to: (no need to push it to the slob level, above will do)

Thank you.


----------



## SportsZoneSS

Once the transfer is put on the tshirt, would it help to press it again for a couple of seconds with a teflon sheet just to set it better?

I am looking for a solution to the fading problem. After a few washes, the print has almost completely faded away. Any good advice is much appreciated!


----------



## rrc62

SportsZoneSS said:


> Once the transfer is put on the tshirt, would it help to press it again for a couple of seconds with a teflon sheet just to set it better?


That is actually recommended by the manufacturer. I press for 15 seconds at 410 with very heavy pressure, peel immediately, then press for 6 seconds with teflon. I re-press both DuracottonHT and ImageClip and have had no problems with fading even after dozens of washes.


----------



## periscope

rrc62 said:


> That is actually recommended by the manufacturer. I press for 15 seconds at 410 with very heavy pressure, peel immediately, then press for 6 seconds with teflon. I re-press both DuracottonHT and ImageClip and have had no problems with fading even after dozens of washes.


 
I concur with Ross. I press at 408 degrees for 20 sec at heavy pressure, then 5 sec with teflon. No fading whatsoever.


----------



## SportsZoneSS

Ok, that is what I needed to know. Thanks so much guys!


----------



## mrstitch

Ken

I'm using the oki 5500 with your recommended settings, but my blacks are coming out too light. Which setting(s) would remedy this?

Thanks

Dean


----------



## rrc62

mrstitch said:


> Ken
> 
> I'm using the oki 5500 with your recommended settings, but my blacks are coming out too light. Which setting(s) would remedy this?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dean


There should be a button labeled "Advanced" on one of the driver tabs. Make sure "Always use K toner for 100% black areas". On the color tab you can also play with the black finish settings. Telling it to use K toner on 100% black just tells it to use the black toner cartridge instead of mixing CMY to make black. Printing from the K toner will be the darkest black you'll get. Increasing the paper weight might darken the black. I'd try that last.


----------



## DuraCotton98

mrstitch said:


> Ken
> 
> I'm using the oki 5500 with your recommended settings, but my blacks are coming out too light. Which setting(s) would remedy this?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dean


Happy New Year to everyone!

1. Turning on the K toner only for black is very important (as has been noted above).

2. also, ALWAYS use RGB colors in creating your artwork. Convert CMYK images to RGB. RGB prints much more vibrant and accurate than CMYK.

have a great one!


----------



## embthreads

I'm new to this and have been reading many posts. I received samples of the DuraCotton HT last summer and just getting around to working with it soon. I have an OKI 5200 and really didn't see anyone mention this printer. I was under the impression that it was the same printer as the 3200 but just a newer model. Will I have any problems using mine and are the printing/pressing parameters the same using it?

In addition I have a case of mugs never used that were purchased for sublimation using Artanium inks but my Epson died out on me before I ever got to use them. Can these mugs be used with DuraCotton HT or DuraCotton Mug paper? I have mug wraps so what would the "recipe" be for doing mugs with them and using the OKI/DC paper?

Thanks.
Deb


----------



## deniseg

> I'm new to this and have been reading many posts. I received samples of the DuraCotton HT last summer and just getting around to working with it soon. I have an OKI 5200 and really didn't see anyone mention this printer. I was under the impression that it was the same printer as the 3200 but just a newer model. Will I have any problems using mine and are the printing/pressing parameters the same using it?


i have an OKI 5600 which is called something else in USA, so no u shouldn't have any problems with it these r the settings i use and have found it works well with Duracotton HT
Size A4 ( if u r american your paper will be smaller so u need to do a different size
Source Multi tray its important to use the top tray so it come's out striaght.
Weight Heavy have tried other settings but this works better for me.
Finish mode Standard.

I can't help u with the mugs sorry as i don't do them but i am sure someone can help, failing that you can go onto their site AutoART DuraCotton Digital Heat Transfer Papers it may tell you there it will also tell you the printer's they have tried D/C with and their results  gl hope this helps


----------



## grumpster

The Oki 5200 and 3200 have the same print engine and both will work just fine with the Duracotton HT paper. Actually, the Oki's have one of the best reputations with this paper so you shouldn't have any problems. Many of the other printers require "printing" a number of blank sheets of regular paper to warm up the printers fuser before using the Duracotton HT. This is not required with the 5200. Just print and press. You might want to adjust your toner density for a better image though. One time setup is all that is required. Check out the dye-namic web site for information on that. 

As for the mugs, Duracotton HT is not intended for hard surfaces. I have not used the Duracotton MUG my self so I can not comment on it. From what I have read though it is not as durable as true sublimation is on coated mugs. It does require the extra step of oven baking for 10 minutes or so to set the image supposedly making it dishwasher safe. If you don't oven bake it then it's hand wash only. This adds a good bit of extra time to the process. 

I have 2 5200 printers. One with regular toner and one with Dye-sub toner. I exclusively use the dye-sub printer for hard surfaces like mugs and have had great results. My step father "adopted" one of the first test mugs that I printed on a cactus mug about 2 years ago with dye-sub and uses and washed it daily. It still looks just like it did the day I printed it. Since the Duracotton MUG uses regular toner and a resin coating, I have my doubts that it can provide such durable results. Maybe some one else has used it and can tell you more about how well it holds up.


----------



## MYDAMIT

i have try using this duracotton mug and it works well its also diswahersafe only problems with this is too many extra work because you need to put in an oven so that you have good bonding with the ink and the mug. Now i used sublimation ink its easy to make a mug with this ink.


----------



## embthreads

embthreads said:


> In addition I have a case of mugs never used that were purchased for sublimation using Artanium inks but my Epson died out on me before I ever got to use them. Can these mugs be used with DuraCotton HT or DuraCotton Mug paper? I have mug wraps so what would the "recipe" be for doing mugs with them and using the OKI/DC paper?


Can anyone answer my question about using the mugs coated for sublimnation with DuraMug? I don't want to waste paper on them if they are not compatible.
Thanks.


----------



## DuraCotton98

One DuraCotton HT user emailed in this suggestion:

"I've been using your your DuracottonHT paper for all
of my t-shirt transfers now and they are great! When I
first started using it on my Oki5500 it jammed in the
roller frequently. It was very frustrating. I tried
the tips on your website regarding paper thickness,
and running through blank paper before printing but it
wasn't a guarantee that the transfer paper would go
through smoothly. I finally figured out the problem
was that DuracottonHT has the tendency to curl
slightly on the ends. So now I bend the transfer paper
to flatten it before feeding the paper through. Now it
never jams!"

A great idea worthy of action!

have a great one!


----------



## MYDAMIT

What is the diffrence between duracotton KM and HT? I have oki printer can i use thsi to Duracotton KM?


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi ROQ:

DuraCotton KM is for the KonicaMinolta non-oil printers, copiers.

This paper does not work in the Okis

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

embthreads said:


> Can anyone answer my question about using the mugs coated for sublimnation with DuraMug? I don't want to waste paper on them if they are not compatible.
> Thanks.


Hi Deb:

You need to be discussing DuraMugs with Dynamic Images - Dye-Namic Images Home. The MUG application is really a result of their R & D efforts.

have a great one!


----------



## MYDAMIT

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi ROQ:
> 
> DuraCotton KM is for the KonicaMinolta non-oil printers, copiers.
> 
> This paper does not work in the Okis
> 
> have a great one!


hmmm...ok,thanks


----------



## deniseg

MYDAMIT said:


> What is the diffrence between duracotton KM and HT? I have oki printer can i use thsi to Duracotton KM?


you can use the HT with the OKI as HT is made for laser printer's but not the KM (hope it got that rt )  i use the Duraotton HT with my OKI with grt results


----------



## DuraCotton98

deniseg said:


> you can use the HT with the OKI as HT is made for laser printer's but not the KM (hope it got that rt )  i use the Duraotton HT with my OKI with grt results


Hi Denise:

DuraCotton HT is for the Oki laser printers; DuraCotton KM is for KonicaMinolta laser printers and copiers.

Both papers may or may not work on other laser printers and or copiers.

Using these papers and more, this morning, we have been testing some very interesting developments.

have a great one!


----------



## stuffnthingz

A quick update... I have now used up almost all of my first 100 sheets of DuracottonHT. I am now printing these on my Oki5800 with NO preprinting of blank sheets and I haven't had any issues. The first 30 sheets or so I religiously kept the fuser hot, but then thought I would try without printing blanks and it is working just dandy.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Stuffnthingz:

Sounds to me like you have DuraCotton HT printing just fine, now

Here's to your sales and cashflow!

have a great one!


----------



## charles95405

For the info on duramug...here is a clip from dye-namic site..
DuraCotton MUG Information for Mugs, Tiles, and other Hard Goods
with Sublimation Coating

so guess that answers the question on using it with sublimation coated items


----------



## freebird1963

I have tried to get a sample of the duramug.
Currently using the Versatranz paper.

Mark



charles95405 said:


> For the info on duramug...here is a clip from dye-namic site..
> DuraCotton MUG Information for Mugs, Tiles, and other Hard Goods
> with Sublimation Coating
> 
> so guess that answers the question on using it with sublimation coated items


----------



## EddieK

I am new here and I need some information.

I have purchased some DuracottonHT transfer sheets and have not a clue if I am able to print with my HP Color LaserJet
3600dn. Does anyone have any information on this printer.

I read in places you would need a NON-Oil color laser printer...
Fuser Oil or Dry toner????? 

I called HP and no answer from them on a NON-Oil laser???

I tried a sheet on my Hp LaserJet 4P and it jammed and caused a mess. But then it very ofter jams with envelopes. But then it is 15 years old and I assume you cannot compare technology.


I need info before I test it. It's new and I don't want to mess it up.


I would appreciate any help.
Thanks


----------



## deniseg

EddieK said:


> I am new here and I need some information.
> 
> I have purchased some DuracottonHT transfer sheets and have not a clue if I am able to print with my HP Color LaserJet
> 3600dn. Does anyone have any information on this printer.
> 
> I read in places you would need a NON-Oil color laser printer...
> Fuser Oil or Dry toner?????
> 
> I called HP and no answer from them on a NON-Oil laser???
> 
> I tried a sheet on my Hp LaserJet 4P and it jammed and caused a mess. But then it very ofter jams with envelopes. But then it is 15 years old and I assume you cannot compare technology.
> 
> 
> I need info before I test it. It's new and I don't want to mess it up.
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any help.
> Thanks


 HT is for NON oil laser it uses a powder in the toner's if you go to AutoArt.com they have a list of printer they have tested for the paper i found it very helpfull.also have you tried to run 5/6 blank papers through your laser printer 1st to warm it up then print a t/p? i found it stoped my jamming problem
If your laser printer uses an oil toner then they make a different paper for that.


----------



## EddieK

deniseg said:


> HT is for NON oil laser it uses a powder in the toner's if you go to AutoArt.com they have a list of printer they have tested for the paper i found it very helpfull.also have you tried to run 5/6 blank papers through your laser printer 1st to warm it up then print a t/p? i found it stoped my jamming problem
> If your laser printer uses an oil toner then they make a different paper for that.


Thanks so much for the reply but I was curious and did a test page on the color laser and it worked great. Now I need a heat press.. I didn't think of that. I thought an iron would do.
Like I said I'm new at this. Have you tried the vinyl that is used for fabric? I have a Graphtec
cutter/plotter so that may also be a good option.

Thanks again
Eddie


----------



## deniseg

EddieK said:


> Thanks so much for the reply but I was curious and did a test page on the color laser and it worked great. Now I need a heat press.. I didn't think of that. I thought an iron would do.
> Like I said I'm new at this. Have you tried the vinyl that is used for fabric? I have a Graphtec
> cutter/plotter so that may also be a good option.
> 
> Thanks again
> Eddie


no not yet  still new to this so getting used to 1 thing at a time  good luck with the pressing


----------



## diane143

EddieK said:


> Thanks so much for the reply but I was curious and did a test page on the color laser and it worked great. Now I need a heat press.. I didn't think of that. I thought an iron would do.
> Like I said I'm new at this. Have you tried the vinyl that is used for fabric? I have a Graphtec
> cutter/plotter so that may also be a good option.
> 
> Thanks again
> Eddie


You will still need a heat press for the vinyl


----------



## EddieK

diane143 said:


> You will still need a heat press for the vinyl


And where would I pick up a heat press that is not a lot of money.

Considering I'm in Montreal, Canada

Thanks


----------



## Dyenamic Rex

embthreads said:


> I'm new to this and have been reading many posts. I received samples of the DuraCotton HT last summer and just getting around to working with it soon. I have an OKI 5200 and really didn't see anyone mention this printer. I was under the impression that it was the same printer as the 3200 but just a newer model. Will I have any problems using mine and are the printing/pressing parameters the same using it?
> 
> In addition I have a case of mugs never used that were purchased for sublimation using Artanium inks but my Epson died out on me before I ever got to use them. Can these mugs be used with DuraCotton HT or DuraCotton Mug paper? I have mug wraps so what would the "recipe" be for doing mugs with them and using the OKI/DC paper?
> 
> Thanks.
> Deb


Deb;
I had Sandra Call you and explain that the OKI 5200 works with all DuraCotton Transfer Papers using OEM toner (Toner made by OKI). I have used a OKI 3200, a OKI 5500, a OKI 61000 and a OKI 8800 with DuraCotton MUG without problem. The OKI 5200 uses the same toner as the OKI 3200. Please, follow the instructions on pressing for DuraCotton MUG. You can get them from our web site.

Big Ed


----------



## DuraCotton98

EddieK said:


> And where would I pick up a heat press that is not a lot of money.
> 
> Considering I'm in Montreal, Canada
> 
> Thanks


Hi Eddie:

There are lots of heatpress distributors in the Montreal marketplace. But, I do not suggest you go looking for a press based on money. I think it is better to find a low cost one that does the job properly (in my opinion, there is no point in trying to press transfers with a press that will not hit and maintain the desired temps).

have a great one!


----------



## grumpster

EddieK said:


> And where would I pick up a heat press that is not a lot of money.
> 
> Considering I'm in Montreal, Canada
> 
> Thanks


There are cheep heat presses and there are good quality heat presses, but there aren't any good quality cheep heat presses. The cheep china presses don't maintain temperature well or heat the platen evenly. Buying one of them is penny wise and pound foolish. Better off to get a good quality press to begin with. 

If your patient you can find a good quality used press on E-Bay for a reasonable price. I got my DC-16, Hotronix 16x20, DC-7, and DC-3 that way and saved well over $1000.00 over buying new, but it took me a few months of patient shopping to find what I wanted at prices I could afford. Their are a lot of people out there that bought equipment with grand ideas that never worked out. Their loss can be your gain. Don't try to save money by getting a small 9x12 or 12x14 press unless you KNOW that you'll only be using it on small images. Get a 14x16 or better press. 

With the exception of my Zebra LP 2844 label printer, I bought all of my laser and ink-jet printers new though and I wouldn't recommend buying printers, especially inkjet used.


----------



## Grandadgem

I have really enjoyed reading these posts. I bought my c5500n at staples just over a year ago and have loved the glossy colors it produces for photos on laser gloss paper. True gloss has been difficult to find since I bought my first ream of IBM also at staples. My machine has a touchy personality as it took 110lb stock for the 1st mo and one day jammed. Ever since it will only take 62 lb or lighter and then only in utility tray on glossy. I have been experimenting with my epson 1400 and have found success at printing directly on fabric adhered to card stock or freezer paper. I am very happy I stumbled onto this duracotton ht. I read the post about getting a borderless by pressing for about 5-10 seconds and quick peel. Hope it works when I finally get a first order sometime after the 1st. Looking forward to reading more of your succeses. Just remember, nothing is achieved without risk of trial. Thanks.


----------



## DuraCotton98

Hi Jim:

Thank you for the interest in DuraCotton HT Heat Transfer Paper.

You may wish to test the latest paper which was released for sale just a couple of weeks ago. 

have a great one!


----------



## Grandadgem

Thanks, I plan to do a small order or duracotton HT here soon. I am currently out of y toner and on my OKI 5500 & new ones from staples average $89.00 I found refills on ebay from a seller called tjwholesaledirect. These come in sets of four containers as powder for $99.00 or therebouts. I read his feedback and is pretty good. He claims the process is simple and fast. All equipt needed for refilling is included. Has anyone else out there done refills on a okidata c5500n & are there other options? Maybe it's best to just go with oki stock and not experiment.


----------



## charles95405

Jim...be very caeful in using ebay toners for duracotton...duracotton is manufactured to be specific with the OEM toners and I do not think the ebay toners are equiv. to OEM JMO... you can also buy OEM toners from OKI  Toners 5500 / 5800 blk is $46.50 CYM are$76.50


----------



## Grandadgem

Hi, Iam also new. I have researched, read, fiddled, wasted and experimented enough to find that a press is a real plus over a hand iron. I nearly went to far and got a cheapo 15"x15" off ebay. It works well even w/o a way to tell pressure weight. All this one has is a threaded screw down knob. In awhile I'll get a press that is more advanced. I also am glad to have a teflon sheet and am getting a fitted teflon for the bottom platon. Thanks.


----------



## Grandadgem

Hi, I have been very excited about what I have heard & read about duracotton and the possibilities with my oki 5500. Now, I read about duracotton mugs? Is this another mug that has a special coating? Maybe I just need to home in on the if & how tos of the t-shirt process before I get sidetracked. It's intresting though. I love reading about all this creativity. Having had to retire last year, I have more than a bit o time on my hands. Thanks.


----------



## Grandadgem

I really appreciate your heads up on the ebay toner for my oki 5500. I asked the seller on ebay about the quality match of the toners but no answer yet. I checked out the site you guided me to and the prices are very good. Guess I'll go for the real thing to be safe from ptsd flareup. They also had prices for duracotton iron ons. I love this forum. thanks.


----------



## charles95405

Jim...some presses off ebay work well...but don't worry that you can't tell exact pressure or that the pressure is adjusted with a screw down...I have three presses...none have the pressure guage....after awhile you can sense where you want to be...all mine just have the digital temp/time setting...other than that you should be good to go. remember if you are going to do mugs...then you need a mug press...another expense ..so guage your market before investing in that...Or you can use Mug wraps. I personally prefer sublimation for mugs...but then that is even more expense for printer/paper/ink


----------



## Grandadgem

I finally did it. Been creating t designs so much I didn't try my new duracotton HT till today. I opened the rear paper catch table and set my oki 5500n at glossy for the multi purpose tray. I ran the Duracotton through and boy oh boy...! Some lessons are just more expensive than others. Paper jam. Then the fatal error code read out on the display. It took me 1/2 hr to finally locate the paper. It was wrapped up in the fuser cartridge. I got it out and put it together expecting all to be well as usual. Still fatal error. I called OKI and the nice guy played tapps for my OKI. Yup, he said it was dead...but... he would send me another and I would get it tomorrow. I just need to take my parts out of my old one and transfer them. Swap engines so to speak. Now I'm scared to death to try again. I failed to mention that I gotta buy another fuser, $200.00. If it does it again I'll put it up to you guys for sale as an expensive anchor. Make a nice planter. This time I'll try printing a few plain papers first. Wish me luck.


----------



## Lnfortun

You are lucky. Oki does not honor warranty to a printer that has been damaged caused by heat transfer.


----------



## ashamutt

Lnfortun said:


> You are lucky. Oki does not honor warranty to a printer that has been damaged caused by heat transfer.


....now I am scared to use my new OKI!!

Luis, how can I prevent this from happening to me???(_what happened to the guy above_)


----------



## deniseg

ashamutt said:


> ....now I am scared to use my new OKI!!
> 
> Luis, how can I prevent this from happening to me???(_what happened to the guy above_)


OK for a start don't worry same thing happened to me,OKI changed my fuser unit no problem,now 1st of all it jams for a few reasons,main being that it was cold,so you need to warm your printer up 1st.Run 6/9 sheets of plain paper through with just a . this warms it up and doesn't use very much ink.2nd make sure you are using the Multi tray,so it runs straight through and for now just use a single sheet at a time till you have the hang of things ok my setting are;
Multi tray
Heavy

I love this paper and when u have it right I am sure you will to the 1 slight drawback is that if its not kept very flat it will curl slightly at the edges which can catch in the printer so I always make sure i have a weight (pk of paper will do it) on top.
Hope this is of some help


----------



## Lnfortun

deniseg said:


> OK for a start don't worry same thing happened to me,OKI changed my fuser unit no problem,now 1st of all it jams for a few reasons,main being that it was cold,so you need to warm your printer up 1st.Run 6/9 sheets of plain paper through with just a . this warms it up and doesn't use very much ink.2nd make sure you are using the Multi tray,so it runs straight through and for now just use a single sheet at a time till you have the hang of things ok my setting are;
> Multi tray
> Heavy
> 
> I love this paper and when u have it right I am sure you will to the 1 slight drawback is that if its not kept very flat it will curl slightly at the edges which can catch in the printer so I always make sure i have a weight (pk of paper will do it) on top.
> Hope this is of some help


You are talking about the new light+white right. So far I have read few reports of jamming with this paper. The last one was catastrophic. Will Autoart carry some of the burden when the printer warranty is not honored by the printer manufacturer. After all the transfer paper caused the damage.


----------



## Lnfortun

ashamutt said:


> ....now I am scared to use my new OKI!!
> 
> Luis, how can I prevent this from happening to me???(_what happened to the guy above_)


Not sure what to tell you. In my case I am willing to try just about anything. Heck I print some inkjet paper with my laser printer. Some work some jam. But if the paper totally destroys a printer then I am very skeptical until I see more smooth and successful report not just from select few but from a majority of users. Charles will be reporting soon, I hope, when he gets his supply and try it for himself.

Usually it is the fuser that is taking the brunt but killing the whole printer? I am not sure how it could damage the whole unit. Unless the jam was so sever that the drive motor, electronics control for the drive motor or gears broke inside the printer.

He can probably explain better on what actually happened to his printer.


----------



## deniseg

Lnfortun said:


> You are talking about the new light+white right. So far I have read few reports of jamming with this paper. The last one was catastrophic. Will Autoart carry some of he burden when the printer warranty is not honored by the printer manufacturer. After all the transfer paper caused the damage.


No i am talking about the old Duracotton HT the new paper I think is called something diff and uses a diff setting and press temp its a lot lower,as to the other comment that I can't say as although it may happen with that paper its usually a cold printer that causes it not the paper itself.If you are having a lot of problems with Duracotton paper contact Ken at AutoArt they are very helpfull and will work with you to help solve the problem.


----------



## deniseg

ashamutt said:


> ....now I am scared to use my new OKI!!
> 
> Luis, how can I prevent this from happening to me???(_what happened to the guy above_)


Just to let you know it wasn't Duracotton that ruined my printer it was another paper I got from Targets,it had a ridge on it that had to go in 1st,usually all the ridges where the same way up but for some reason 1/2 the paper was 1 way and 1/2 the other and it got caught and wrapped round my fuser so badly (the paper was upside down)that it burnt it out,so i had to buy a new 1,Target's didn't pay for a new 1 but gave me a credit against another order.The paper had been packed wrong 
Sorry if I lead you to think it was Duracotton,however when I started using Duracotton for the 1st time it used to jam but that was solved by preheating the OKI 1st,now I don't have to so I think it was just while new as now I can print straight off from cold but its nearly 2yrs old now the only thing I regret with the OKI was not getting the A3 modle instead of the A4 so I coudl do bigger prints


----------



## DuraCotton98

Grandadgem said:


> I finally did it. Been creating t designs so much I didn't try my new duracotton HT till today. I opened the rear paper catch table and set my oki 5500n at glossy for the multi purpose tray. I ran the Duracotton through and boy oh boy...! Some lessons are just more expensive than others. Paper jam. Then the fatal error code read out on the display. It took me 1/2 hr to finally locate the paper. It was wrapped up in the fuser cartridge. I got it out and put it together expecting all to be well as usual. Still fatal error. I called OKI and the nice guy played tapps for my OKI. Yup, he said it was dead...but... he would send me another and I would get it tomorrow. I just need to take my parts out of my old one and transfer them. Swap engines so to speak. Now I'm scared to death to try again. I failed to mention that I gotta buy another fuser, $200.00. If it does it again I'll put it up to you guys for sale as an expensive anchor. Make a nice planter. This time I'll try printing a few plain papers first. Wish me luck.


Hi Jim:

I am sorry for the issue that you encountered. I suspect that your fuser and printer are from the original batch from Oki - the problem that you encountered was quite common with that shipment and Oki was very supportive in responding to it. Thusly, they reacted to your situation again very supportive.

For our paper - in this case DuraCotton HT - to work correctly, it is imperative that the instructions be followed. Printing DuraCotton HT in a cold printer will cause jamming. It is that simple.

I am surprised that you were able to get the transfer paper out after 30 minutes or so. By then, the printer was cold, the fuser had cooled and the polymer should have stuck to the fuser roller. You are extremely fortunate.

Denise below has given you her working settings. That is a good place to start. 

At this point, worldwide, our paper is used by well over 1000 Oki printer operators - all with DuraCotton HT. Denise - she and I ongoing exchange emails - including some over the last few days - is one of those users. 

So, when you are ready to start up again testing DuraCotton HT, please call me on the 800 line (top right corner on our website - www.autoartusa.com). We together will review everything and then print (with me on the phone line).

You have mentioned that the fuser needs to be replaced. Given what you have written, I rather doubt that. Even if there is polymer on the fuser roller, it will soften and roll off (when you print several sheets of plain photocopier paper while warming up the fuser). So, if it were me, I would put the fuser back and give it a good try.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


----------



## ashamutt

deniseg said:


> OK for a start don't worry same thing happened to me,OKI changed my fuser unit no problem,now 1st of all it jams for a few reasons,main being that it was cold,so you need to warm your printer up 1st.Run 6/9 sheets of plain paper through with just a . this warms it up and doesn't use very much ink.2nd make sure you are using the Multi tray,so it runs straight through and for now just use a single sheet at a time till you have the hang of things ok my setting are;
> Multi tray
> Heavy
> 
> I love this paper and when u have it right I am sure you will to the 1 slight drawback is that if its not kept very flat it will curl slightly at the edges which can catch in the printer so I always make sure i have a weight (pk of paper will do it) on top.
> Hope this is of some help


THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIPS!!!!
Really, thank you!!!
You and LUIS are AWESOME!!!!!
(so are Byron and Charles!!!) 


.....when you say ..."I love this paper ".... you are talking about Duracotton, right?

....also... I forgot..... what do you use for "darks" ???
(I am trying to write all of this stuff down so as not to ask twice ....sorry if I have already asked)


----------



## DuraCotton98

Darks - you ask!

We are working with what we hope is the last of the pre-production versions of our forthcoming Transfer to Dark. Tomorrow afternoon, we will be in the lab.

Our solution is not the traditional opaque. 

have a great one!


----------



## stuffnthingz

I had my Oki jam last year, but not from DC, Oki sent me a new unit. Since then I have come to learn that the fuser is pretty robust, I have had many jams and I have always been able to pull the paper out, the trick is to push on the unwind button, the blue one on the right as you stare at it in the printer, that makes the paper come right out, and as noted above do it while hot. All the toner on the fuser prints off with a rerun of a blank sheet.

I have a 98% success rate with DC HT, and the new L+W not so much, but I am diligently working with the new paper. Most of its jams are partial curling into the fuser. I have honestly beat my Oki and it keeps ticking, its a well made printer IMO.


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## ashamutt

stuffnthingz said:


> I had my Oki jam last year, but not from DC, Oki sent me a new unit. Since then I have come to learn that the fuser is pretty robust, I have had many jams and I have always been able to pull the paper out, the trick is to push on the unwind button, the blue one on the right as you stare at it in the printer, that makes the paper come right out, and as noted above do it while hot. All the toner on the fuser prints off with a rerun of a blank sheet.
> 
> I have a 98% success rate with DC HT, and the new L+W not so much, but I am diligently working with the new paper. Most of its jams are partial curling into the fuser. I have honestly beat my Oki and it keeps ticking, its a well made printer IMO.


Thanks to you too TM!!!

I hope that I never get a "jam" but if I do and can't figure it out I feel relieved that I will have so many people to turn to!!!! 

I am also going to look for a YouTube video on "cleaning out a laser printer" LOL

I have received my test LASER paper from PROWORLD(man, they have FAST shipping!!!!!!!!!)  
....now, I am waiting on my test LASER paper from Condé.


To whom do I go to get test Duracotton??


----------



## deniseg

ashamutt said:


> Thanks to you too TM!!!
> 
> I hope that I never get a "jam" but if I do and can't figure it out I feel relieved that I will have so many people to turn to!!!!
> 
> I am also going to look for a YouTube video on "cleaning out a laser printer" LOL
> 
> I have received my test LASER paper from PROWORLD(man, they have FAST shipping!!!!!!!!!)
> ....now, I am waiting on my test LASER paper from Condé.
> 
> 
> To whom do I go to get test Duracotton??


AutoArt do samples they kindly sent me some all the way to GB  go to their website its well worth reading what they say Duracotton on the post above has a link


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## ashamutt

LOL!!!! duh...I see it now! (sorry)

....when I go to their website , it looks all scrambled.......does it appear to be that way on your monitor as well?


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## charles95405

Ms Bacon.. PM me next week and I can help...there are now several kinds of Duracotton... 
The newest...Duracotton for light/pastel cotton
Duracotton HT...regular white/light grey cotton
Duracotton Oil .. made for oil based fuser lasers
Duracotton KM...specially formulated for Konia Minolta CLP
Duracotton SUB..made for those who do not have laser but do dye sub..this is two step with dye sub paper


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## ashamutt

charles95405 said:


> Ms Bacon.. PM me next week and I can help...there are now several kinds of Duracotton...
> The newest...Duracotton for light/pastel cotton
> Duracotton HT...regular white/light grey cotton
> Duracotton Oil .. made for oil based fuser lasers
> Duracotton KM...specially formulated for Konia Minolta CLP
> Duracotton SUB..made for those who do not have laser but do dye sub..this is two step with dye sub paper


Thanks so much Charles!

 Is Monday too soon to PM you?

....just so you know.... I have an OKI c6150 HD color LED/laser printer....whatever all of that means..LOL!!!

I was told it was one of the best at my price range.....normally it ranges 660.00 - 850.00 BUT...I snagged it for 413.00!!!!


----------



## Grandadgem

These posts were very helpfull. Yes, I ran the ht through ist run with no warm up. I read one post awhile back about one person doing a cold run and it worked for him. when I have had jams in the past it was with plain paper and wasn't much to retrieve the paper. This time I set it to a glossy setting which my wife came up with which she uses for photo printing using the utility tray. I opened the rear exit tray to test run a plain paper through and it did fine. I lay the ht gloss side up and used the same setting when I got the fatality. Not sure why it killed the machine but the ht was wrapped around the spool in the fuser cartridge. Not only that but it was stuck together like scotch tape if the glue sides touched each other such as curling back. It was really stuck in there. I had to peel it out piece by piece. i guess I was lucky. Now that I think of my call to cust support, I didn't mention that it was transfer paper. Anyway, true to his word , my new printer came today ups over night. Now I need to wait couple days till I get paid. ( THE LOCAL STAPLES) DOES NOT CARRY THE FUSER.


----------



## Grandadgem

I'd like to say thanks for autoarts very quick response to my last post about my dead oki. I didn't mean to fault the ht. I once awhile back I gnored a warning & ran a inkjet dark fab iron on through my hp 4550 lazer out of curiosity. It cured my curiosity. There was just a warning. Nothing about what it would do. Sorry, I just like to be told a little about what exactly will result. Anyway, I tried to print again on my oki after cleaning the fuser but the fatal error came on again and I just guess I'll go with the new one. This time I'll run the 9 to 12 sheets of plain first. I'll use the 800 # tomorrow. Thanks autoart.


----------



## DuraCotton98

ashamutt said:


> Thanks so much Charles!
> 
> Is Monday too soon to PM you?
> 
> ....just so you know.... I have an OKI c6150 HD color LED/laser printer....whatever all of that means..LOL!!!
> 
> I was told it was one of the best at my price range.....normally it ranges 660.00 - 850.00 BUT...I snagged it for 413.00!!!!


With an Oki c6150, you can run DuraCotton HT without issue. HEAVY is likely the best setting for you. Charles has inventory.

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

Grandadgem said:


> I'd like to say thanks for autoarts very quick response to my last post about my dead oki. I didn't mean to fault the ht. I once awhile back I gnored a warning & ran a inkjet dark fab iron on through my hp 4550 lazer out of curiosity. It cured my curiosity. There was just a warning. Nothing about what it would do. Sorry, I just like to be told a little about what exactly will result. Anyway, I tried to print again on my oki after cleaning the fuser but the fatal error came on again and I just guess I'll go with the new one. This time I'll run the 9 to 12 sheets of plain first. I'll use the 800 # tomorrow. Thanks autoart.


Try the (old) fuser in the new printer. The old printer has the fatal error in its 'electronics'. It may work, it may not.

have a great one!


----------



## stuffnthingz

there is a distributors list at AutoART: AutoARTransfers, DuraCotton Digital Heat Transfer Papers (this is the manufacturers site)

Also, my old fuser from the fatal error printer works fine in the new printer... but don't hold me accountable


----------



## trj

Hello, I've got an hp4600 and a hp4650 has anyone tried the duracotton ht with these?


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## charles95405

trj...the east coast distributor lists the HP45xx series as being compatible.. I have no personally used the HP45xxx nor do I have knowledge of any one on the west coast who has


----------



## Grandadgem

Thanks but I best not try the dead fuser. I called oki and the guy warned me not to as he said it would damage my new printer. I googled the part # 43363201, for my 5500n oki printer and chose a co called AlwaysLowest. $122.93 + $15.72 ship. Get it in about a week. Anyway, I like reading the posts here but I'd like to add a suggestion that would help me a lot and maybe others. There have been posts that gave great hope about a nice new product that worked good for a person but it would be nice if the post included where they got the item & how much. For now, I am working on an idea about printing maybe a flag on a dark fabric iron and and running it through my wife's cricut machine to cut out a free floating U.S.A. for a t-shirt oron on.


----------



## Grandadgem

Thanks. Just outa curiosity I scoped ebay for the oki c6150 hd. Looks reeeeal juicy. Pretty much a basic $1,000. 
Also saw a promo oki c7300 hd for $499.00.Is that workable? I kinda like the no problem printing idea. For now, I'll work with my 5500 and the final satisfaction will be a pay off. After all I have 99 more sheets of ht to play with. Thanks.


----------



## ashamutt

Grandadgem said:


> Thanks. Just outa curiosity I scoped ebay for the oki c6150 hd. Looks reeeeal juicy. Pretty much a basic $1,000.
> Also saw a promo oki c7300 hd for $499.00.Is that workable? I kinda like the no problem printing idea. For now, I'll work with my 5500 and the final satisfaction will be a pay off. After all I have 99 more sheets of ht to play with. Thanks.


I got my OKI c6150 for 413.00 on Overstock.com! 
Plus free shipping!!!

.....and, it was not a refurb!!! 

There were 9 of them in stock and by morning they were gone!

You can add your email to their list so as to be informed when more are in stock!!

http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Oki-C6150N-LED-Printer/3189070/product.html?cid=95138&fp=f


----------



## trj

So I guess the oki is the way to go. The 6150 works fine for the duracotton ht right? Maybe I'll just get that.


----------



## ashamutt

trj said:


> So I guess the oki is the way to go. The 6150 works fine for the duracotton ht right? Maybe I'll just get that.


I have not tested the dura HT...... 
Hopefully, I can purchase some from Charles when I speak to him on Monday.


----------



## DuraCotton98

trj said:


> So I guess the oki is the way to go. The 6150 works fine for the duracotton ht right? Maybe I'll just get that.


On my desk is an Oki 6050 - virtually the same as the 6150. My 6050 runs both Duracotton HT and the new AutoARTransfers Lights + Whites papers perfectly.

have a great one!


----------



## CoolTech

Hi Ken,

Have I been away that long? There's another Duracotton/AutoArt product?

Where can I learn about AutoArt's new products? I found HT to work great with whites, but I had to really design and trim for most color shirts...


----------



## MYDAMIT

i got the new duracotton for light and white but having problem in printing. I got damage my fuser it stick to the fuser. I used transfarecy setting. anymone experience using this paper?what is your setting, i have oki 5500 printer.


----------



## deniseg

MYDAMIT said:


> i got the new duracotton for light and white but having problem in printing. I got damage my fuser it stick to the fuser. I used transfarecy setting. anymone experience using this paper?what is your setting, i have oki 5500 printer.


not used the new 1 but did u heat your printer up 1st? i use heavy setting but will send off for some new paper and let u know =)


----------



## deniseg

CoolTech said:


> Hi Ken,
> 
> Have I been away that long? There's another Duracotton/AutoArt product?
> 
> Where can I learn about AutoArt's new products? I found HT to work great with whites, but I had to really design and trim for most color shirts...


there is a new light paper it uses a lower heat/etc u acn read up about it at AutoArt


----------



## MYDAMIT

yes i heat my printer and print 5 blank pages before i used the new paper, i dont have any problem with duracotton ht and techni print. In auto art website they specify transfarecy, glossy, medium setting. I think it must good if they specify each printer setting so that the newbie will play on that setting to avoid printer part damaged.


----------



## DuraCotton98

CoolTech said:


> Hi Ken,
> 
> Have I been away that long? There's another Duracotton/AutoArt product?
> 
> Where can I learn about AutoArt's new products? I found HT to work great with whites, but I had to really design and trim for most color shirts...


Hi Jim:

Yes, there is a new paper called AutoARTransfers Lights + Whites.

We have had some printing issues on Oki printers. I think we are now beyond that and are awaiting confirmation from over 100 Ok owners (virtually all models) - we sent out paper today.

The paper has been printing on selected HP and Xante models, some copiers (Toshiba mainly) - both Canon and KM are about to test the 'fixed' version. Xerox 240 - 250 is washing out.

Amazingly, the paper is also printing on OIL-based equipment. A Canadian company sells pressed transfers to one movie company, so quality and color durability are critical. That customer has written back saying he has 30 washes (oil equipment) without fading.


The polymer does not show (on many light colors) though there is a very slight hand before the first wash, so cutting around the image is not required. The hand can be reduced by increasing the press time (beyond the recommended 14 - 16 seconds.

Jim, hope that answers your questions

have a great one!


----------



## DuraCotton98

MYDAMIT said:


> i got the new duracotton for light and white but having problem in printing. I got damage my fuser it stick to the fuser. I used transfarecy setting. anymone experience using this paper?what is your setting, i have oki 5500 printer.


Hi ROQ:

Sit back and await for the new samples of the paper to arrive. I think you will be (very) pleased.

have a great one!


----------



## CoolTech

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi Jim:
> 
> Yes, there is a new paper called AutoARTransfers Lights + Whites.
> 
> We have had some printing issues on Oki printers. I think we are now beyond that and are awaiting confirmation from over 100 Ok owners (virtually all models) - we sent out paper today.
> 
> The paper has been printing on selected HP and Xante models, some copiers (Toshiba mainly) - both Canon and KM are about to test the 'fixed' version. Xerox 240 - 250 is washing out.
> 
> Amazingly, the paper is also printing on OIL-based equipment. A Canadian company sells pressed transfers to one movie company, so quality and color durability are critical. That customer has written back saying he has 30 washes (oil equipment) without fading.
> 
> 
> The polymer does not show (on many light colors) though there is a very slight hand before the first wash, so cutting around the image is not required. The hand can be reduced by increasing the press time (beyond the recommended 14 - 16 seconds.
> 
> Jim, hope that answers your questions
> 
> have a great one!


Yes, it does. 

I have my OKi 5500 and 3200 to test it for you


----------



## MYDAMIT

DuraCotton98 said:


> Hi ROQ:
> 
> Sit back and await for the new samples of the paper to arrive. I think you will be (very) pleased.
> 
> have a great one!


ok, i try to test that. I got a few tips on this paper on oki 5500. i got good print after i do this setting. i used medium setting and need to have atleast 1.5 inches top margin of the design. I think this paper is good on not very hot fuser, the margin i purpose is to pass the fuser so that it will not stick.


----------



## DuraCotton98

MYDAMIT said:


> ok, i try to test that. I got a few tips on this paper on oki 5500. i got good print after i do this setting. i used medium setting and need to have atleast 1.5 inches top margin of the design. I think this paper is good on not very hot fuser, the margin i purpose is to pass the fuser so that it will not stick.


Hey ROQ
Would you email directly at [email protected]?

You have turned off 'private emails' so I cannot contact you directly

have a great one!


----------



## Grandadgem

Hi guys. I was sure I posted my victorious last run of duracotton HT on my OKI 5500 after my 1st crash & burn but upon searching for it I have no success. Anyway, I ran the suggested plain paper thru first to heat it up ( I ran 9). Then I went to util tray and set it at heavy. Then I opened the back door. I found the slight curl up on the HT stubborn even though I weighted it down so I gave it a bit of a over curl the opposite way to make it come out straight. That worked. I set my press at 405 F & printed a couple sheets of ht with a design I've been working on for a local produce stand while it heated up. Lots of colorfull fruits & veggies.The press fluxuated between 405 - 416F and all went very well. I did use a teflon sheet for 15-20 sec, removed the sheet and tefloned it again for another 15 sec after removing the HT. From what I've been reading, I was a bit extreme but I guess I got a little (attituded). Anyway, the shirt came out nice and there was just a light color left on the paper. Maybe some more pressure would solve that also. The hand was nearly gone and the clear coating window also. Had to look close to see it. I washed the shirts in luke warm with plain water and I think the hand was pretty much gone with the window. I went to the dollar store & got several blanks in white and lite grey to play with. Wish I knew how to leave a quote and post pics. Thats my report, Have a great adventure and thanks for all your encouragement. Jim


----------



## Grandadgem

LOL, not sure which jim is being written to. Maybe I need to change my name to Alvatheo. Not ot worry. I 'll keep reading. Every time I do, I learn something more. Thanks


----------



## DuraCotton98

Grandadgem said:


> Hi guys. I was sure I posted my victorious last run of duracotton HT on my OKI 5500 after my 1st crash & burn but upon searching for it I have no success. Anyway, I ran the suggested plain paper thru first to heat it up ( I ran 9). Then I went to util tray and set it at heavy. Then I opened the back door. I found the slight curl up on the HT stubborn even though I weighted it down so I gave it a bit of a over curl the opposite way to make it come out straight. That worked. I set my press at 405 F & printed a couple sheets of ht with a design I've been working on for a local produce stand while it heated up. Lots of colorfull fruits & veggies.The press fluxuated between 405 - 416F and all went very well. I did use a teflon sheet for 15-20 sec, removed the sheet and tefloned it again for another 15 sec after removing the HT. From what I've been reading, I was a bit extreme but I guess I got a little (attituded). Anyway, the shirt came out nice and there was just a light color left on the paper. Maybe some more pressure would solve that also. The hand was nearly gone and the clear coating window also. Had to look close to see it. I washed the shirts in luke warm with plain water and I think the hand was pretty much gone with the window. I went to the dollar store & got several blanks in white and lite grey to play with. Wish I knew how to leave a quote and post pics. Thats my report, Have a great adventure and thanks for all your encouragement. Jim


Hey Jim:

Congrats!

Sounds like you pretty well have it! If you are using a GeoKnight press, the settings are about 'dead-on', otherwise, you are a tad heavy (with temp). The 'used' paper should have a slight ghosting on your image and that is what you have.

The crowd is cheering you loudly!

have a great one!


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## Grandadgem

Hi guys, My oki's been begging for m toner so I was reduced to getting robbed at staples today for $97.00. I bought my previous toner from alwayslowest.com and it was much cheaper at about $64.00 + $15.00 grnd ship. Today I did a part search for m toner ( # 43381902 ) for my oki 5500 & came up with 2 promising sites. 1. Inktechnologies 5k yield blk $48.00 & colors at $58.00. # 2. Supermedia.com came in at $88.00 for blk 5k yield + free grnd ship. Anyway, I'll use every speck of powder in my m before changeing out. Would like to get the entire set in hi yield but I'm so poor I can't afford to pay attention. It will come. My granddaughter (9) is learning my graphic programs and use of the paper & press which is not a geo knight. Just want to let her see an option over having to come in her teenage yrs smelling like burgers & fries at min wage. Not against fast food jobs. It's honorable work for a buck. Just low pay. Hope this helps someone.Thanks


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## MYDAMIT

Grandadgem said:


> Hi guys, My oki's been begging for m toner so I was reduced to getting robbed at staples today for $97.00. I bought my previous toner from alwayslowest.com and it was much cheaper at about $64.00 + $15.00 grnd ship. Today I did a part search for m toner ( # 43381902 ) for my oki 5500 & came up with 2 promising sites. 1. Inktechnologies 5k yield blk $48.00 & colors at $58.00. # 2. Supermedia.com came in at $88.00 for blk 5k yield + free grnd ship. Anyway, I'll use every speck of powder in my m before changeing out. Would like to get the entire set in hi yield but I'm so poor I can't afford to pay attention. It will come. My granddaughter (9) is learning my graphic programs and use of the paper & press which is not a geo knight. Just want to let her see an option over having to come in her teenage yrs smelling like burgers & fries at min wage. Not against fast food jobs. It's honorable work for a buck. Just low pay. Hope this helps someone.Thanks


I have oki 5500 and i refill my toner, i buy it on ebay. It easy to refill for $115 for 4 color.


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## MYDAMIT

CoolTech said:


> Yes, it does.
> 
> I have my OKi 5500 and 3200 to test it for you


 i got the new paper almost the same with the previous light and white duracotton only diffrence is the back paper has no waltermark. By the way i already experiment and try it. I got same result sticking on my fuser. I damage like 15pcs before i got the setting. The setting is in heavy mode but you need to change the setting in actual printer. I try all setting and found these useful. Need to change the mediaweight to heavy and media paper to rough and print it in heavy setting.


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## DuraCotton98

MYDAMIT said:


> i got the new paper almost the same with the previous light and white duracotton only diffrence is the back paper has no waltermark. By the way i already experiment and try it. I got same result sticking on my fuser. I damage like 15pcs before i got the setting. The setting is in heavy mode but you need to change the setting in actual printer. I try all setting and found these useful. Need to change the mediaweight to heavy and media paper to rough and print it in heavy setting.


Hi ROQ

Yes, the backprint is not on the paper yet, and behind the scenes, there is considerable change in the transfer. And, the right paper setting will vary from printer to printer, especially by state grid power lines. We are rapidly finding the results (paper weights) vary across the country. I think we are on the right track now - we are beginning to receive positive feedback again.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


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## Grandadgem

I considered buying on ebay also but hesitated as I wasn't sure if it stood up to oki standards which I want to use for the duracotton HT. Are you using ht also with the ebay toner? That would be fiiiine. Cheap also. Thanks.


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## DuraCotton98

Grandadgem said:


> I considered buying on ebay also but hesitated as I wasn't sure if it stood up to oki standards which I want to use for the duracotton HT. Are you using ht also with the ebay toner? That would be fiiiine. Cheap also. Thanks.


Hi Jim & ROQ:

I appreciate we all use a lot of toner, and it would be ideal to have a lower cost source. In the past, we have used third-party toner and it lacked vibrancy and wash durability.

In the case mentioned by ROQ, your third-party toner may have all the right ingredients. But, please test extensively for color vibrancy, wash durability and color accuracy.

These three elements need to be checked extensively for both DuraCotton HT and AutoARTransfers. In the future, we are going to be doing a lot with AutoARTransfers so please be exhaustive in your evaluations.

What I do know is we are beginning to receive some excellent comments re: AutoARTransfers' color excellence, wash durability (one user has reported 30 washes without color loss using an oil-based laser printer) and color vibrancy.

So for a few pennies more a print, I really wonder if it is worth the risks to your customers to use third-party toner.

My two cents worth ....

have a great one!


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## diane143

Anyone test you new paper on an HP 4500 yet?


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## Grandadgem

Your right Ken, Instead of taking risks there are a couple sites I saved that carry the entire set at quite a discount forthe 5k toner cartridges at bout same as 2ks. I was just curious if the 3rd party toners had held up as well as ome for the ht. For now I am very comfy with what I got. Not rockin the canoe. I soon will be getting more serious about the whites & lights dc. When the rules and settings are firm on it's use for my 5500 I'll get some. I read one post where the person actually had multiple crash & burns ans had to clean his fuser every time till he got it right. Thanks


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## trj

I have tried the hp4600 and hp4650 and they do not work. I also tried a brother 4040 at staples and was able to get it to print but, it had severe ghosting which I could not eliminate.


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## trj

I have tried the hp4600 and hp4650 and they do not work. I also tried a brother 4040 at staples and was able to get it to print but, it had severe ghosting which I could not eliminate.


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## MYDAMIT

Here are some photos on new light and white transfer paper duracotton. 
1st picture setting are transparency,ultra heavy and heavy
but the setting on printer is 
mediaweight is transparency
media in plain paper

2nd picture has ghost effect and my setting are in medium mediaweight is heavy 
media is in rough

3rd pictures is the perfect setting is heavy
mediaweight is in heavy
media rough


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## DuraCotton98

MYDAMIT said:


> Here are some photos on new light and white transfer paper duracotton.
> 1st picture setting are transparency,ultra heavy and heavy
> but the setting on printer is
> mediaweight is transparency
> media in plain paper
> 
> 2nd picture has ghost effect and my setting are in medium mediaweight is heavy
> media is in rough
> 
> 3rd pictures is the perfect setting is heavy
> mediaweight is in heavy
> media rough


ROQ:

Congrats!

Your printed shirt looks great!

have a great one!


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## diane143

trj said:


> I have tried the hp4600 and hp4650 and they do not work. I also tried a brother 4040 at staples and was able to get it to print but, it had severe ghosting which I could not eliminate.


I don't think they are the same as the 4500/4550 though


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## trj

no they are not the same, totally different set up, but I was just adding the others to the list for others to see.


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## Grandadgem

Those colors look fine on 3rd right. About what I'm getting on ht w/ my 5500. I'm gonna have to figure out how to upload pics here to post also. Thanks.


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## DuraCotton98

Jim:

I enjoyed your call earlier today

have a great one!


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## MYDAMIT

Grandadgem said:


> Those colors look fine on 3rd right. About what I'm getting on ht w/ my 5500. I'm gonna have to figure out how to upload pics here to post also. Thanks.


Yes they are perfect and you can not notice also the polymer after pressing. The ht and this white and light has different setting i think i used tranparency on my computer and on my printer MPT mediatype is tranparency and media weight is ultra heavy.


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## DuraCotton98

MYDAMIT said:


> Yes they are perfect and you can not notice also the polymer after pressing. The ht and this white and light has different setting i think i used tranparency on my computer and on my printer MPT mediatype is tranparency and media weight is ultra heavy.


Hi ROQ

Yes, the settings for AutoARTransfers and DuraCotton HT should be different. The papers are significantly different - with Lights + Whites featuring tangible benefits over HT. 

We appreciate your input and observations.

have a great one!


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## mrstitch

Ken:

My customer left me with some Adidas Clima Cool white shirts. I can't see the actual material content, but I'm guessing its a type of polyester quick dry fabric.
Can either the Duracotton or the new white and lights paper work on this fabric? If so, what are the temp setting etc....?

Thanks
Dean


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## DuraCotton98

mrstitch said:


> Ken:
> 
> My customer left me with some Adidas Clima Cool white shirts. I can't see the actual material content, but I'm guessing its a type of polyester quick dry fabric.
> Can either the Duracotton or the new white and lights paper work on this fabric? If so, what are the temp setting etc....?
> 
> Thanks
> Dean


Hi Dean:

I have easily transferred to 100% polyester - without issue, using the standard t-shirt settings (385 - 390F, 15 seconds, 2/3's pressure on a manual) using AutoARTransfers Lights + Whites. The weight of the polymer (Lights + Whites) is a bit lighter (thinner) than DuraCotton HT. Having said that, I personally would use the new paper but DuraCotton HT certainly will work (405 F, 15 seconds, 3/4's pressure).

If your like me, I like to test before jumping. So I would turn the shirt inside out and test a small print on the inside - just to confirm your settings on your press.

Good Luck!

have a great one!


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