# Wood VS Aluminum frames for your screens - which do you prefer?



## RideOutWear (Feb 27, 2010)

Just wanted to hear everyones thoughts on aluminum vs wood screens. 
My personal opinion is wood sucks! They warp, the ink is almost impossible to get off the sides once it gets on there it just soaks in. An they seem to pop more. 

What do you prefer?


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## S.BLACK1 (Mar 11, 2009)

Aluminum frame is the way to go!


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

No-one prefers wood, they just prefer spending less money on screens.

It's not worth it though. Aluminium is easier to clean, lighter, and won't warp. The fact that it won't warp also means it's cheaper in the long-run, since you can keep re-meshing your screens.


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## pukingdeserthobo (Jun 3, 2008)

Aluminum, i liked the wood one when i has the old ryonet magnet press


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## nation03 (Sep 2, 2008)

Out of the two, Aluminum... but I'd rather spend the extra money on Newman or Shurloc frames.


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## RideOutWear (Feb 27, 2010)

Wood really isn't that much cheaper. Where I get mine from it's 20 for wood 24 for aluminum. And yes remeshing them makes it worth every extra penny. It would be hard to mess up or warp an aluminum screen and it seems every wood I have ever cleaned has warped after first cleaning.


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## RatedOG (Jan 26, 2010)

I won't buy another wood frame. I agree it's cheaper in the long run to buy aluminum.


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## jasonsc310 (Feb 15, 2010)

Aluminun is the way to go. You get more life out of the frame and they dont cost much more. May be 4 bucks more. They are more ridged and durable than a wooden frame. They dont warp or the joints never come apart. They have lots of advantages. I think i would go with aluminun.


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## PatFinn (Jan 13, 2010)

neither... NEWMANS. 110% better than either.. saves money, time, and you get better prints.


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## kaotik (Jul 18, 2010)

i love the aluminum they just last longer i just got some newman rollers and love being able to adjust the tension especially for doing white on black


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

What would you consider a good price for 20 X 24 and 23 X 31 aluminum frames?


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## RideOutWear (Feb 27, 2010)

For a 20x23 I pay $21 for a 155 mesh


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## PatFinn (Jan 13, 2010)

RideOutWear said:


> For a 20x23 I pay $21 for a 155 mesh


i pay 20 for my newmans used all the time.. and I retension them. its a no brainer. more control, better print.. saves money and time in the long run..


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

RideOutWear said:


> Wood really isn't that much cheaper. Where I get mine from it's 20 for wood 24 for aluminum. And yes remeshing them makes it worth every extra penny. It would be hard to mess up or warp an aluminum screen and it seems every wood I have ever cleaned has warped after first cleaning.


If wood cost 20 and aluminum 24 then there is no more argument for wood. I use aluminum frames for more detailed images and wood for simpler images. However I also use a line table press where the frame is laid on top of the platen where we can get away with minor warpage. In contrast, frames on rotary presses are rigidly clamped on one end making slight warpage a much bigger issue. But to share some experiences.

Here, most of us DIY our own wood frames with regular S4S KD softwood where a 20x24 cost USD2.50-2.70 to DIY. "Branded" KD wood costs about USD2.85-3.00. Water resistant wood costs about USD 3-3.40. The mesh are not included. The price range merely says I forgot the actual cost. For reference, a static aluminum frame of the same size cost about USD24.00. 

For us, the 7-8 fold price difference is enough reason to go wood and many professional printers use only regular KD wood frames even with photographic images. This brings us to the next argument.

Warping after a single wash seems to indicate that the wood has not been kiln dried. If they are, then they did a rather lousy job. Of my first 10 wood frames made from regular hardware lumber(coated with oil stains), after several months, about half have warpages where you can insert 2-4 coins underneath one of the corners. About half of these warped frames are still usable as explained, because we use a line table system. This makes 75% of my wood frames still usable after 8 months(but more like 4 months of regular use).

I expect less warpages(and/or a longer more useful life) on my "branded" and water resistant wood frames. Others apply varnish to resist water.

As we DIY our own frames, I can still convert these warped frames into smaller frames. I also expect less warpage on smaller wood frames such as the 18x20" wood frames or thereabouts which is also popular among printers. I also have smaller 10x12" wood frames where I expect minor problems from warpage.

And from experience, the wood we use here are actually lighter than aluminum frames of the same size. This lighter wood is more ideal for the line table printing system where the frame is held by hand and transferred from one platen to another.

Overall, there is no question that aluminum is better. Retensionables are best but this is not absolute. As one of our colleague here(a better professional printer) calculated to be more cost effective and productive, he remeshed all his frames instead of reclaiming them making retensionable frames of no advantage to him.

The choice of wood frame is therefore a function of cost differences and printing method. Many of us recognize this but the wide price difference is a little difficult to ignore.


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## snackdaddy185 (May 17, 2008)

I was going to make the switch to retension frames then I found a local business that sells aluminuim frames for pretty cheap. I was able to buy 23X31 frames for about $18 a per frame (230 mesh), shipping included. I got them delivered today and they seem pretty good, but we'll see how good the mesh is. Can't wait to print with them.


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## clubfred (Mar 10, 2008)

aluminum is the only way to go


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## Dwaynec (Feb 15, 2010)

aluminum and roller frames over wood anytime you will save money in the long run


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

clubfred said:


> aluminum is the only way to go


Never say never. Never say only. Aluminum is not as stiff as most may think. It is the current affordable solution though.


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## nation03 (Sep 2, 2008)

Now that Panel Frames are using Sefar mesh that should be everyones standard. Not as good as the Newmans or EZ frames, but at least you can remesh the screens yourself for a fraction of the cost and your tension levels will be equal or greater then static frames.


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## JAF (Oct 12, 2008)

I'm a Newman girl. That's what I started with & I'm glad I did. We have one 25mesh aluminum frame for glitter and after the first washing the mesh started coming off the frame. I wasn't impressed.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

Judy, the mesh coming off the frame, especially after just the first wash, would indicate an improper application of adhesives and not the frame or the system. No doubt retensionable frames are better though.

Jake, how much does a same sized panel, newman and EX frame cost in your place? Or maybe just a rough estimate.


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## JAF (Oct 12, 2008)

You can order Newman frames from Stretch Devices in Philadelphia. I purchased my meter on Ebay. The tensioning tools came from my husbands tool box.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

The tensioning tool for the panel frame is more expensive than the frame?


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## recklessahoy (Mar 11, 2010)

The main reason I prefer wood frames, is because they are easier on your hands. If you are an all auto shop aluminum is def better. In an all manual shop, the wooden frames are a better weight for most presses (won't go flying away from you) and nicer on your hands (ever touch a metal frame on a cold day 2,000 times? not fun.) I realize most folx prefer the metal frames, but regardless of warpage (most can be easily set to bypass any off contact issues) I prefer the wooden frames for hand printing. Some of my wooden frames are over 15yrs old without a tear, and have been used to print 100's of thousands of impressions.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

On that score, handling and feel, I definitely prefer wood frames. Like I posted elsewhere my wood frames are actually lighter than aluminum. 

The water resistant wood I used in my latter frames are expected to present lesser problems in terms of warpage. However, I am not sure how well it will hold a good tension in relation to an alumunum frame.


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## nation03 (Sep 2, 2008)

well the tension tool you only need to buy once. Most frames out there that can be retensioned may require some sort of tensioning system that will definitely be more then the frames itself. The newman stretch tables are quite pricy. I don't think I'm suppose to be posting actual prices so I'm going to edit my previous post.


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## vggraphics (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm sure that aluminum is the way to go, but I was wondering if there is average or median number of times you can clean, washout and reclaim a wooden frame before it starts to crack and warp ?????


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## kirkmansigns (Jun 22, 2007)

Well, I'm going to be the odd one in the bunch. I prefer wood screens. GOOD wood screens. The mesh will outlast the aluminum screens two to one. I will agree the aluminum is the better of the two, but I've never had any last as long as the wood ones. I use only Pocono wood screens. All hardwood, poly coated, rounded corners. I use about two dozen screens total printing 15,000 - 20,000 shirts annually. Every aluminum screen I've had, the mesh tears well before it's useful life. I have only had one or two Pocono screens warp slightly. Our press has four pneumatic clamps, one on each corner. The screens always lay flat in the press once the clamps are on. Just my two cents. Again... I don't suggest wood to save money. I suggest good wood frames for a longer lasting investment.


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## BroJames (Jul 8, 2008)

vggraphics said:


> I'm sure that aluminum is the way to go, but I was wondering if there is average or median number of times you can clean, washout and reclaim a wooden frame before it starts to crack and warp ?????


Hardware wood will start to warp after a few washes. If humidity is low it may even warp without actual washing. But some frames should last more than 5 washes before warping. If you are using a rotary press then warpage is a more serios problem than it is with line table systems.

My wood frames are made from pre-treated properly kiln dried wood and compared to regular hardware wood, warpage is less both percentage wise and in seriousness.


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## JoshJ (May 31, 2011)

With wood, I had to re-adjust my off contact almost every time I set up due to the screens not being perfectly flat. With aluminum, it repeats every time. I'd never go back.


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## kirkmansigns (Jun 22, 2007)

Off contact should never change once set. I'm assuming you're using a manual press, as this may not be true each time. With an auto as we use, the screen is mounted with pneumatic clamps on all 4 corners, against very substantial brackets both front and rear. The clamps and brackets are both strong enough to flatten any warp that may be in the screen. My problem with aluminum screens are that the mesh tears/rips pre-maturely. If I'm spending $ 25-30 bucks on a screen, I'm buying the one that will last longer while still printing a quality print. For me, that is wood. My suggestion for everyone is to buy BOTH. Alternate between each one and see with you personally prefer. I've tried roller frames, I don't like them. Way too much up keep. I've tried aluminum frames and now I have a room full of bare frames with no mesh because it's all ripped. I also have a room full of wood screens that are still going strong. Pocono Mountian wood screens are great. Maybe they'll send me a few for all this good feedback. LOL


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