# PhotoTrans ImageClip - only option that won't leave polymer window?



## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

Hello.

I have access to a color laser printer (Xerox DocuColor 240) at work, but I'm not sure the PhotoTrans ImageClip transfer paper will work with it (it's a non-fuser oil based machine). I am afraid to ruin it, it's an expensive machine, and if something jams and messes things up, I'm ****ed. There isn't much info on this paper online, usually it's the same paragraph copy/pasted on various sites. So does anyone have experience with this paper? Particularily on non-fuser oil printers (as I understand, they get hotter), or even on the DocuColor 240. I need t-shirt prints that leave no window, it's an absolute necessitiy. So either directo to garment printing (rather expensive, and external company), or inkjet with MiraCool paper, or laser printing with the PhotoTrans ImageClip paper, those are my options really. (I need very small runs, so silk screening isn't really an option). Am I right?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Just a question but dont all digital print transfer papers other than dye sub leave an edge around the image unless trimmed into the actual artwork?


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## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

Apparently not the PhotoTrans ImageClip


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

I have a sample of photo trans image clip, that I will be trying out within the next week. I will post results on it then.

And you are correct...no polymer window. Its supposed to look like screen printing


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## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

excited to hear the results! what printer are you using?


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

> excited to hear the results! what printer are you using?


Im not sure yet. My college is putting my business up in an office where, I am supposed to get free prints on a color laser printer, so Id like to take advantage of it (and save some money). I have been sitting on these samples for over a year. I got them when the paper was first coming out, but haven't been able to try them out until now. Im moving in on thursday. Ill post results when I get a chance.


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## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

And does the PhotoTrans ImageClip work only on white t-shirts or on darker colors too? I need it to leave NO polymer window trace around the artwork even on darker t-shirts...Can it do this?Thanks!


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

monkchild said:


> And does the PhotoTrans ImageClip work only on white t-shirts or on darker colors too? I need it to leave NO polymer window trace around the artwork even on darker t-shirts...Can it do this?Thanks!


not an expert with digital transfers... but 
PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ? 
if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks. 

Not the same as Deco Material or Plastisol Transfers. 

getting a little  here.


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## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

LucyRoberts said:


> not an expert with digital transfers... but
> PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ?
> if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks.
> 
> ...


well, according to some people here and the marketing copy for the phototrans paper you don't need to cut around the design - that's the whole deal. you have experience with the paper and say you do? for both white and dark colors? have you experience with deco transfers, cos i'm looking into this, how do you find the qualtiy?


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## T-BOT (Jul 24, 2006)

monkchild said:


> well, according to some people here and the marketing copy for the phototrans paper you don't need to cut around the design - that's the whole deal. you have experience with the paper and say you do? for both white and dark colors? have you experience with deco transfers, cos i'm looking into this, how do you find the qualtiy?


still  

one thing i can tell you is that laser color copy tonner will not print on black shirts ( where you can see it anyways..lol ). 

It dont matter what digital media you feed thru machine.  

deco transfers are ploter cut or die-cut and bond to the shirts.

you can do multi-2-3-4-5 color deco transfers tooo... more money.


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## jdr8271 (Jun 16, 2005)

It doesnt leave a polymer, but you cannot use it on dark shrit.


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## monkchild (Aug 11, 2006)

what's the quality of deco like? is it very bad? it's a big plasticy thing? stands out a lot? they are quiete expensive compared to plastisol (if you do many runs, but i have to do single runs, so i cant go with plastisol)..


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## taurusndixie (Aug 6, 2006)

Why can't you take a sheet of Phototrans image clip paper and try it out on a cheaper desktop laser and test the paper to see if it will transfer a image as you hope ?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

T-BOT said:


> not an expert with digital transfers... but
> PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ?
> if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks.
> 
> ...


Imageclip transfer paper is entirely different from the other Phototrans products. It is a two step process transfer paper. The image is first printed on the imaging transfer paper and a second transfer paper that has the polymer is heat pressed against the imagaing paper. Then the papers are separated while hot which makes the majority of polymer bond on the ink area and maybe a few specks on the open space. The specs does not really cause any adverse effect on the shirt. The imaging paper is then heat pressed on the garment and peeled off while it is hot.

The result, the transfered image feels and looks like it is screenprinted. No polymer patch, has softhand and the color is vibrant. The color is not muted since the ink is on top of the polymer instead of the other way around using regular transfer paper. The image did not turn dark which is a draw back with other transfer paper products. To coin a phrase, it is "WYSIWIG" end product.

It was a bit tricky at first but once I got the hang of it the product really lived up to the manufacturers claim.

No problem using hot non-oil fuser laser printer. I use it in Okidata C5200ne color laser printer. 

I just printed three orders a total of 40 shirts a week ago. The order was a mixture of hanes beefy-t gold nugget color t-shirts and gray Printpro sweatshirts using the Imageclip papers. Imageclip works really well on sweatshirts.

I do still trim just to minimize the open space area that is covered with polymer specks. It is optional but I do not want to take chances just in case the specks show up on the garment. So far it has not been a problem.

I will try to post, when I get a hold of a descent camera, the first shirt I did before deciding to go ahead with Imageclip using sample papers from Coastal Business. The shirt is FOL natural color 50/50 that I printed with full color graphics.

Sorry about the long post. Just have to clarify the difference between Imageclip and other Phototrans regular transfer paper such as techniprint, etc.

BTW Coastal Business gives out samples. The price is right too. A lot cheaper than what is out there. Only thing is there are only two sizes, 8.5 X 11 and 11 X 17. Wish 8.5 X 14 is available. I have to print diagonally in order to get an image larger than 10 inches width wise.

Luis


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

jdr8271 said:


> Im not sure yet. My college is putting my business up in an office where, I am supposed to get free prints on a color laser printer, so Id like to take advantage of it (and save some money). I have been sitting on these samples for over a year. I got them when the paper was first coming out, but haven't been able to try them out until now. Im moving in on thursday. Ill post results when I get a chance.


You should really try the new version of Imageclip. I heard the original version is not as good washability as the new version. I use Imageclip to print garments. I was amazed with the print when I tried the sample from Coastal Business and decided to go ahead with the paper.

Like you I have put off trying it because of the negative reviews with the old version. The new version IMHO is good to go.

Since you have the old version you may want to compare it to the new version.

Luis


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

Thanks for the tip. I will also try and use Photo trans imageclip. I've used the phototrans plus, and phototrans SC and am satisfied with the results. It seems that Neenah really knows how to make good products.

As an alternative to the original post, there are also discussions here about the Duracotton-oil, and Duracotton-HT. It might also be worth a try.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

vctradingcubao said:


> Thanks for the tip. I will also try and use Photo trans imageclip. I've used the phototrans plus, and phototrans SC and am satisfied with the results. It seems that Neenah really knows how to make good products.
> 
> As an alternative to the original post, there are also discussions here about the Duracotton-oil, and Duracotton-HT. It might also be worth a try.


I have tried Duracotton HT and oil (98) but both HT sample papers jammed in my printer using two different settings. I called dye-namic about my problem to get some answer. It turned out that I have the wrong settings for the media weight and paper type. I tried the Duracotton 98 which is suppose to be for oil type fuser at the same setting I used for HT and the paper did not jam (confused). Supposedly the 98 would have jammed but it went through the printer. The 98 had gray background which can be expected using Okidata C5200Ne CLP according to the manufacturer.

Imageclip does not have the gray background issue even on a light garment (Ash and Gold nugget). Only the inked area is transfered to the garment.

Inspite of my problem with Duracotton I am still considering giving it a shot since it is a one step process and it comes in 8.5 X 14 size. The sample pre-printed cloth I recieved from Dye-namic was impressive. No gray background. The sample pre-printed transfer did very well also when I pressed it on a garment. The key is choosing the right settings for my printer so that the HT does not jam and hopefully no gary background.

I do not have anymore Duracotton transfer paper to try. So I can not make any furthter coment about the Duractton. I am expecting some samples in two weeks. I will post the result.

I want to point out also that Duracotton costs a lot higher than Imageclip. At least compared to the price from Coastal Business.

Luis


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## Dave_S (Jul 13, 2006)

I have tried the Neenah ImageClip paper, until reciently I was not too impressed with the black transfering properly (colours seem fine), but after increasing the temperature when pressing the two papers together it worked perfectly,now well pleased with the results, washing is good too......I have an ash grey shirt I done a couple of years ago for myself, washed to death, and the colours are still great (black is faded quite a bit though, but that was before I learned to up the temp!
No polymer window and no trimming...

hope that helps

Dave_S


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Dave_S said:


> I have tried the Neenah ImageClip paper, until reciently I was not too impressed with the black transfering properly (colours seem fine), but after increasing the temperature when pressing the two papers together it worked perfectly,now well pleased with the results, washing is good too......I have an ash grey shirt I done a couple of years ago for myself, washed to death, and the colours are still great (black is faded quite a bit though, but that was before I learned to up the temp!
> No polymer window and no trimming...
> 
> hope that helps
> ...


That is the key. Having the right temp and pressure when pressing the two papers together. It took a few trial and error and wasted transfer papers before I got the hang of it. Plus I wanted to make sure that the sample print I did the first time was not a fluke. You have to do this since heat presses, depending on the brand name, have temperature variability from the target temperature. I happen to have a press that has digitally controlled temperature. Even at that I still did some trial and error.

I lucked out though. The first sample paper I pressed came out perfect. Helped me decied to go ahead with Imageclip.

Luis


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## Jimwill (Nov 23, 2006)

Luis,

I have also had good results with the Image Clip paper. When it works correctly, it is fantastic. I have trouble with the first transfer, when the polymer is applied to the areas with toner using the second sheet.

Sometimes, the polymer doesn't completely cover the areas with toner, and I waste a transfer. When this happens, a small patch of color will not be transferred to the shirt because the polymer is missing. Do you have this problem?

I have tried different times, temps, and pressures using a Hix HT-400 Digital press. What temperature and time do you use for the first press? I've been using 225 degrees for 20 seconds.

I've also noticed that the polymer has trouble attaching to lighter colors, especially light grey. Have you had any trouble with this?

For the second press, 375 degrees and 20 seconds seems to work fine for me. It's the first press that is the tricky one.


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## PinkLaser (Mar 7, 2007)

Has anyone tried the ImageClip with a HP 3600 ? I've been using TechniPrint with good results on this printer, but hate the "hand". Neenah is sending me some samples to try, but I would hate to damage the printer in any way.

Thanks!
Christine


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## Jimwill (Nov 23, 2006)

PinkLaser said:


> Has anyone tried the ImageClip with a HP 3600 ? I've been using TechniPrint with good results on this printer, but hate the "hand". Neenah is sending me some samples to try, but I would hate to damage the printer in any way.
> 
> Thanks!
> Christine


Christine:

I use Image Clip on my Oki C5500 with no problems. Oki printers run hotter than most, so your printer might be ok. Of course if it jams...

I've seen a thread here somewhere that compares the temperatures of different printers. It may have been the DuraCotton thread. If I can find the temperature for your printer, I'll let you know.


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## Jimwill (Nov 23, 2006)

Jimwill said:


> Christine:
> 
> I use Image Clip on my Oki C5500 with no problems. Oki printers run hotter than most, so your printer might be ok. Of course if it jams...
> 
> I've seen a thread here somewhere that compares the temperatures of different printers. It may have been the DuraCotton thread. If I can find the temperature for your printer, I'll let you know.


Christine,

I found your printer's temperature at this thread (only 374 degrees):
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t6315-6.html

I believe my Oki C5500 runs at well over 400 degrees. The temperature is important for many papers, but since the Image Clip paper that you print with does not have any polymer on it, I don't believe it will jam. There is nothing to melt. The polymer is applied using a second sheet of paper on your heat press.

Hope this helps!
Jim


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## PinkLaser (Mar 7, 2007)

Jimwill said:


> Christine,
> 
> I found your printer's temperature at this thread (only 374 degrees):
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t6315-6.html
> ...


Jim, 

Thanks for the quick response! I found the DuraCotton thread and am finding a great deal of information there, also.

Take care,
Chris


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Jimwill said:


> Luis,
> 
> I have also had good results with the Image Clip paper. When it works correctly, it is fantastic. I have trouble with the first transfer, when the polymer is applied to the areas with toner using the second sheet.
> 
> ...


Hi Jimwill,

I too had that problem at first when I was trying to find the best settings for time, temp and pressure. I found that temp and pressure are critical when pressing the two papers together. Also make sure that both papers are sitting on the lower platten to keep them from cooling down while peeling. Neenah also recommend to keep the green labeled paper on the back side. However, I have been pressing with the red on the back side because I can peel easier that way. Since the red labeled is smaller than the green labeled paper I can see the edge of the smaller paper and pick it up easier with my nail. Try not to lift the papers away from the platten. Keep your peeling hand close to the lower platten, without touching the platten (It's hot. Lol), while peeling the papers apart.

The instruction that came with the transfer papers recommends to set temp at 210 and time at 10 seconds. The instruction for second stage press is 10 seconds at 400 degrees and peel transfer hot. In addition I cover the shirt with teflon then press it again for another 10 seonds. Then peel the teflon while hot for good print washability.

You must have bought yours from Paper Ranch because their temp is 225 and time is 20 seconds. I did not have a problem either way but I used teflon cover sheet with the later settings which could have lowered the temp on the transfer approximately 10 to 15 degrees less.

I have a Hotronix swinger with digital temp control and pressue guage. So I can set both of them accurately. I set my pressure at 4 which is light. Not sure how it translates to other brands. I would estimate maybe one fourth to a third of the pressure when pressing a shirt. Too much pressure will cause excessive polymer to bond in the open area. Little specks of polymer in open area does not cause any adverse effect. It defeats the purpose though of Imageclip if excessive polymer that is in open area is transfered to the shirt.

Another factor is the printer media setting. Make sure that the toner is fused properly on the transfer paper. If the toner is loosely fused the polymer will tend to lift the toner with it which will cause an uncoated with polymer in the image area. This is happening if you see a heavy trace of toner on the polymer paper. I set my media weight to heavy.

Hope this helps. Please let us know what you found from my reply, if any, that helped solve your problem. So that others will benefit from it.

Luis


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## Jimwill (Nov 23, 2006)

lnfortun said:


> Hi Jimwill,
> 
> I too had that problem at first when I was trying to find the best settings for time, temp and pressure. I found that temp and pressure are critical when pressing the two papers together. Also make sure that both papers are sitting on the lower platten to keep them from cooling down while peeling. Neenah also recommend to keep the green labeled paper on the back side. However, I have been pressing with the red on the back side because I can peel easier that way. Since the red labeled is smaller than the green labeled paper I can see the edge of the smaller paper and pick it up easier with my nail. Try not to lift the papers away from the platten. Keep your peeling hand close to the lower platten, without touching the platten (It's hot. Lol), while peeling the papers apart.
> 
> ...


Luis,

Thanks for the info. I have experimented and got great results when I increased my temp to 235. Maybe my press runs not quite hot enough? When I use this setting, the results come out perfect just about every time so far. 

One thing I noticed is that when done correctly, a small amount of toner will appear on the polymer paper (the greeen sheet), so that the image is faintly visible on the green paper that is discarded. I don't know if this is Neenah's intention, but for me it works great.

The only issue that I have with Image Clip is getting light colors, especially light pink and grey, to transfer. They come out splotchy for me. Have you had this same problem?

I will try some of your other suggestions, including using a teflon sheet for another press.

Jim


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Jimwill said:


> Luis,
> 
> Thanks for the info. I have experimented and got great results when I increased my temp to 235. Maybe my press runs not quite hot enough? When I use this setting, the results come out perfect just about every time so far.
> 
> ...


I have not tried transferring solid colors that you are having problem with. I have printed a full color graphics with different shades of a variety of light and dark colors.

See Attached image. This is printed on a natural color, 50/50 Fruit of the Loom Shirt. I did not have a decent camera so I scanned it instead. The image is the actual scanned image of the shirt. The color is a little more saturated than the print on the shirt due to scanner representation of the image, but it is very close to the actual color. The shirt grain does not show because the resolution is set very low so that it will load faster.

You can zoom it within windows explorer by selecting view fullpage and then change the zoom value. The woman's leg is a bit blotchy although it is not obvious in the image.

This print is what impressed me and decided to go ahead with Imageclip. Neenah claims that imageclip is good for names and numbers which are mostly solid colors. As you can see it is good for full color image as well. You be the judge. I have to try it with a photo. It may come out blotchy or it may surprise me like it did with the full color image.

BTW I forgot to mention that the pressure I use for second press is way beyond what the guage in my press can display. I mean really heavy. This hepls drive the tone/polymer deep into the fabric. Again it helps improve washability. The shirt has been washed then thrown in the dryer three times and the color has very little fade. The black is still very dark.

Luis


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## meyerlanski (Jun 26, 2007)

Is Phototrans Imageclip Paper the same as Neenah Imageclip paper? 

If not, which is better in your opinion and what is the main differences betweeb both?


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

meyerlanski said:


> Is Phototrans Imageclip Paper the same as Neenah Imageclip paper?
> 
> If not, which is better in your opinion and what is the main differences betweeb both?


Yep, I think it's the same.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

vctradingcubao said:


> Yep, I think it's the same.


Yes they are. Neenah is the name of the manufacturer and phototrans is a trade name used by Neenah.

Luis


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## jki540 (May 29, 2007)

Hey Luis...I, too, am 100% sold on the ImageClip. I think you and I are looking for the same high-level of quality and softness of feel when we heat transfer. I just had a question for you...What do you use when you print onto dark t-shirts? Have you come across anything that works as well as ImageClip on dark garments? I'm really perplexed by it. All the opaque papers I've tried are really awful. They leave a very thick vinyl transfer onto the t-shirt that does not look professional at all.

Would love to get your thoughts on which papers work best on dark? Or do you use ImageClip with dark shirts, and just ignore any designs that require white ink?

Thanks in advance for any advice!


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## beachboy (May 27, 2007)

according to mfg. it works oil and oilless. beachboy


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

jki540 said:


> Hey Luis...I, too, am 100% sold on the ImageClip. I think you and I are looking for the same high-level of quality and softness of feel when we heat transfer. I just had a question for you...What do you use when you print onto dark t-shirts? Have you come across anything that works as well as ImageClip on dark garments? I'm really perplexed by it. All the opaque papers I've tried are really awful. They leave a very thick vinyl transfer onto the t-shirt that does not look professional at all.
> 
> Would love to get your thoughts on which papers work best on dark? Or do you use ImageClip with dark shirts, and just ignore any designs that require white ink?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice!


Hi jki540,

I have been asked about transfer for dark which I replied in this post:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p143161-post25.html

I also showed in that post a photo of how Forever Dark Opaque transfer looks like after it has been thrown in the dryer.

The paper I described looks like a good candidate until WOW 7.1 becomes available in the US.

Luis


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## marcuskay (May 2, 2007)

Dear all

I are using Imagclip paper and I love it. Just wonder if anyone can share some advice for my problem of printing light color with it.

The problem is about printing light color, especially on pink, that the polymer does not stick even enough to colored paper after the first press, resulting in some uncolored spots in the final tshirt.

My settings
Xerox C360: heavy paper settng
Professional air press: *210F, 20s, 0.4MPa*

On the other hand, I found that if I peel off the green sheet with a slight delay of, say 10 seconds, the polymer will stay more evenly on the pink! However, in this case, the polymer also stays on the transparent area, which defeated its original purpose. 

I did a lot of testing (more than 100 tries, seriously) and couldn't make it. Very frustrated, because it does work great in other brigher colors.

Any advice will be highly appreciated. 

-mk


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

marcuskay said:


> Dear all
> 
> I are using Imagclip paper and I love it. Just wonder if anyone can share some advice for my problem of printing light color with it.
> 
> ...


Hi Marcus,

I noticed that you are using a printer that uses solid ink stick which is made of colored wax. I suspect that the polymer is having a hard time attaching to the ink specially when it is very light in color such as pink. I don't mean for to rush into buying another laser printer and come to realize that it really is not the solution. What I would suggest is go to a store that sells color laser printer such as Okidata or other brand that uses toner instead of solid ink and try printing your design in a demo printer.

Few things you can try if you haven't done it already. Try increasing the time, temp and pressure. Change one variable at a time using 5 point increments. Instead of wasting the whole sheet cut it in 4 pieces. Try increasing the saturation also so that the hard copy will have more ink.

Few users are having the same problem with light color design and have given using such colors in the design. The problem you are having is more pronounced in a solid light color design such as font fill. You can getaway with it when the design is a full color graphic image or photo that is using gradient or fading to white color. For example are the designs that I have posted that has Nukecon in it, the photo of a baby and Elvis. The only one that looked blotchy are the clouds background of Elvis.

On the hand if you have seen the girl with pigtail, the hat is pink and it turned out all right. So I kinda suspect that the polymer is not attaching very well to solid ink.

Try sending a PM to Dodank. She said shes having good successes with light color and photo designs.


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## marcuskay (May 2, 2007)

Hi Luis

Thx for the quick response. Very much appreciate that.

I might sound a bit stupid... I do see the CMYK toner bottles of inside the Xerox C350 printer. Does it mean it is a "toner" based printer, or it is still a "solid ink" printer? (sorry I am not familiar with the printer tech).

As for your advice for testing, yes... I did try a lot of control experiements by tuning different metrix independently. I see you are very considerate in your suggestions. Thx.

Yes, I probably need to give Okidata a shot. And also PM Dodank. 

Thx again ~!

-mk


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## dodank (May 4, 2007)

marcuskay said:


> Hi Luis
> 
> Thx for the quick response. Very much appreciate that.
> 
> ...


hey, 
i got ur pm but u could not recieve any responses because ur full my friend. anyhow this what i did to solve my problem:

when i print light colors assuming u meant a light color in the design, i just darken the color say for instance the color pink has different shades of pink. well i just use a darker shade of that color to achieve the color needed or say there's a light blue, u can still do it but use the darkest shade of light blue. 

hope it helps, let me know

ps. i use a lexmark c522 and c532. but i have also used hp and samsung with this product as well.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

marcuskay said:


> Hi Luis
> 
> Thx for the quick response. Very much appreciate that.
> 
> ...


Hi Marc,

I am not sure what the bottles do. I google searched the type of ink C350 uses. I always come up with ColorStix which meant solid ink. I also looked for brochure in Xerox website. Here is the address for PDF file: http://www.office.xerox.com/products/Z350/350ds.pdf

Take a look at page 3 where the ink system is described. If the inside of you r printer looks similar to the picture then your ink is Solid ink. Another clue would be is the presence of a fuser. Laser printers that uses toner has a fuser.

I also red how the printer works. According to the document the Phaser type printer that uses Colorstix does not use a fuser.

Here is the link for How it works: 8560

I used transfer paper for my thermal wax ink printer (Seiko CH404) for over twelve years and very satisfied with it. Never heard any complain from my customers. However, the manufacturer discontinued the inks for it. So, I ended up swithcing to Imagelip. I have been curious if ithe transfer paper will work with Phaser printers since it does not use a fuser. It would be worth trying if it does not jam the printer.

The paper has very minimal polymer window, harder hand than most I have tried but it softens when the shirt is stretched after peeling the transfer and after the first wash. I would say it has some of the charcteristics of Duracotton only it is for thermal wax ink printer instead of laser printer.

The transfer paper is sold by Airwaves Inc. under the brand name Onestep Thermal Brite.

Sorry about getting out of topic.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

dodank said:


> hey,
> i got ur pm but u could not recieve any responses because ur full my friend. anyhow this what i did to solve my problem:
> 
> when i print light colors assuming u meant a light color in the design, i just darken the color say for instance the color pink has different shades of pink. well i just use a darker shade of that color to achieve the color needed or say there's a light blue, u can still do it but use the darkest shade of light blue.
> ...


Thanks Dodank. His email address outside the forums is [email protected]
Hope that is alright Mk.


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

Im thinking of buying a Okidata printer for doing laser transfers also.
Is that 5200ne working good for? I found a place to buy toner carts at
a low price for it. SuppliesExperts.com- Your Leader in Compatible Imaging Products!

What does the ne on the end mean?

Can that printer do 11x17. I would like to do up to 11x17


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

I might have to go with a 5200n myself, looks like the price jumps up alot
to do 11x17 size. I see where this printer will do long prints. I guess you can
rotate the image and get a wide image across the back of a shirt. I just though it might be nice to have a large image down the shirt too.
I see compusa sells the C5200n for around $500.


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## marcuskay (May 2, 2007)

Hi there, I've been suffering problems when printing light colors, such as pink, light grey, etc, using imageclip (see above). Recently, I realized when setting a higher DPI (I was using 100 DPI only~!), the light colors become more visible.

Just want to see if anyone who can share the DPI value they used for printing light color successfully. (Hey Luis, you are an expert user, could you tell us?)

Merry X'mas
-mk


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

marcuskay said:


> Hi there, I've been suffering problems when printing light colors, such as pink, light grey, etc, using imageclip (see above). Recently, I realized when setting a higher DPI (I was using 100 DPI only~!), the light colors become more visible.
> 
> Just want to see if anyone who can share the DPI value they used for printing light color successfully. (Hey Luis, you are an expert user, could you tell us?)
> 
> ...


The lower the DPI the larger the dots will be therefore you will have more toner surface area compared to high DPI but your resolution suffers. I do not have problem with pink or light grey unless they are very light that shade is almost close to being white.

Not sure if you have seen this photo (vector 300dpi): http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachments/2174d1189938350-imageclip-procedure-dscn0194.jpg 

The olives came out just like what was on the file. The shade of the fruits were very light.

Here is another one that was pressed on opaque using Imageclip (bitmap 96dpi): http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachments/1846d1186297689-airwaves-opaque-imageclip-dscn0143web1.jpg

There are lots of fading to white (i.e. the gray on the scale and the man's bracelet) and very light colors (i.e. fleshtone). I have pressed the image using Imageclip different times and it always come out good. As matter of fact I used that image the very first I tried Imageclip. It came out great and I was in awe that I decided right there and then to go with Imageclip.

I use 300dpi with all vector images and 72dpi to 300dpi for bitmaps. The second photo was done with 96dpi.

Merry Christmas.

Dodank had suggested to use the next darker shade of the target color. Try it see if that helps.

BTW if you are getting better transfer with lower resolution and the image comes out good when pressed then you may have found a solution.


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## smeatongrove (Feb 18, 2008)

Hi all... a T-shirt Forum virgin here. 
ImageClip sounds great, but I think I can guess the answer to this (I hope I'm wrong!)...
Is there an inkjet version or is Imageclip only useable with laser copiers/printers?
Or can anyone suggest an inkjet alternative to ImageClip that offers efficient weeding? I've sent for Kisscut samples but notice that most of the T-Shirt forum contributors seem to have had problems with it. 
Greetings from Scotland.
Jack




lnfortun said:


> Imageclip transfer paper is entirely different from the other Phototrans products. It is a two step process transfer paper. The image is first printed on the imaging transfer paper and a second transfer paper that has the polymer is heat pressed against the imagaing paper. Then the papers are separated while hot which makes the majority of polymer bond on the ink area and maybe a few specks on the open space. The specs does not really cause any adverse effect on the shirt. The imaging paper is then heat pressed on the garment and peeled off while it is hot.
> 
> The result, the transfered image feels and looks like it is screenprinted. No polymer patch, has softhand and the color is vibrant. The color is not muted since the ink is on top of the polymer instead of the other way around using regular transfer paper. The image did not turn dark which is a draw back with other transfer paper products. To coin a phrase, it is "WYSIWIG" end product.
> 
> ...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

smeatongrove said:


> Hi all... a T-shirt Forum virgin here.
> ImageClip sounds great, but I think I can guess the answer to this (I hope I'm wrong!)...
> Is there an inkjet version or is Imageclip only useable with laser copiers/printers?
> Or can anyone suggest an inkjet alternative to ImageClip that offers efficient weeding? I've sent for Kisscut samples but notice that most of the T-Shirt forum contributors seem to have had problems with it.
> ...


Old post but what the hey. 

There is a new paper that is a version that uses an inkjet printer to print the image, and a laser printer to print the mask. 

It is called ImageClip for Inkjet and you can search it on the forum or google it. Info is out there.


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

I hope to see some more papers at Imprinters
sports wear this year in Tampa. Fla.
They always have lots of new products to check out.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Here's a link to the test Luis/lnfortun did with the Imageclip for Inkjet paper:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t71144.html


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## Shpenny (Dec 28, 2008)

Okay, I think I've just experienced a real bozo moment for myself. 

I've just started to try the ImageClip transfer paper for inkjet printers and haven't been able to get it to work correctly.

Could someone answer this question: My transfer image is printed on the ImageClip paper using my "Inkjet" printer. Does the negative image that I press to the transfer sheet have to be printed on a "Laser" printer or is it also printed on an "Inkjet" printer? I've been printing it on my "Inkjet" printer and suspect it may be my problem.

Any help is appreciated (please no name calling!) 

Thanks,
Jake


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Jake (and that is the only name calling we'll be doing - for I personally have "blond" moments, they are real similar to bozo moments. )

The second paper needs to be printed with the laser printer, you are right in your guesstimation. 

Here is current, up to date thread with super great info on the process, and Luis is really knowledgable, as well as helpful. I don't think you could find a better guy with this product. 

Here's that link:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t71144.html


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## Shpenny (Dec 28, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Jake (and that is the only name calling we'll be doing - for I personally have "blond" moments, they are real similar to bozo moments. )
> 
> The second paper needs to be printed with the laser printer, you are right in your guesstimation.
> 
> ...


Hi Kelly,

Thank you so much for your response. For two nights I've been wondering what the heck I was doing wrong. Obviously I'm still learning 

And you are correct, Luis has also been a big help to me and has a wealth of information to share.

Thanks again,
Jake in PA


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## veko (Feb 18, 2011)

nice.

but I think a simple imageclip is not enought.

imageclip video


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

For those who uses Imageclip for inkjet there is a semi transparent paper "Transclip". The paper is manufactured specifally for Imageclip for inkjet for making mask. It allows easy and acurrate alignment when mating the transfer paper and the mask. The paper is made by AW Specialty Papers. The vendor in the midwest is MichiganSpecialtypaper.com. They are selling it under the re-branded name of MSP Transfer sheets.

Here is the actual page: MSP Transfer Sheets

If you get an error message don't be alarmed with the error message. Just click close.


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## Jimwill (Nov 23, 2006)

Hey Luis. I see in a previous post that you used a 50/50 Fruit of the Loom shirt with Imageclip. Do you get a better result from a 50/50 shirt than with a cotton shirt? I know a tight weave is best, just wondering if 50/50 works better than cotton.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Jimwill said:


> Hey Luis. I see in a previous post that you used a 50/50 Fruit of the Loom shirt with Imageclip. Do you get a better result from a 50/50 shirt than with a cotton shirt? I know a tight weave is best, just wondering if 50/50 works better than cotton.


505/50 does not crack as much as 100% cotton because of the type of knit used especially with some brands. It is not course. I get good result with FOL, Jerzees and Gildan 50/50. Gildan and Jerzees 100% cotton is better than Beefy T. But I use them all depending on the customer requirement.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

veko said:


> nice.
> 
> but I think a simple imageclip is not enought.
> 
> imageclip video


 The webpage is not about Imageclip transfer paper.


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