# Heat press leaving marks on garments ???



## vipgraphx

Ok, I know this topic has been discussed before, but it seems as if those threads have been outdated.

I have been pressing shirts now for a little over two years now. I, like many, have faced the famous heat-pressing signature markings.

When I press garments, depending on color and material, I will usually get a heat press mark. I have noticed that cotton usually washes out, but polyester seems to hold the markings on the fabric. I have tried many, many methods to prevent this. I have a Teflon lower platten cover and a Teflon cover sheet to protect the garment. I have tried different pressure settings, but to my knowledge, if you start using less pressure than recommended you will have lifted transfers and angry customers.

I have gotten to the point that I am telling my customers that there may be an impression mark left on the garment that may or may not wash out and the darker the color the more you will notice, especially on polyester fabrics. Just as a safety precaution.

I have tried lifting the printing area with those custom mouse pads. but that just leaves a smaller impression from the heat press. It seems as though there is NO getting around this and it is somewhat upsetting. The purpose of printing is to do the job as professionally as possible.

I have been doing a lot of youth sports jerseys, warm-ups, and shorts. numbering, putting club and team names. I cut my own graphics with my gx-24 and have used pre-printed transfers from stahls and Transfer Express.

The ONLY material that seems to not show marks 100% of the time is full cotton t-s. Most of my customers are using polyester material now, as it seems to be the material of choice in the jersey industry.

I just went to a soccer tournament, and there was a vendor there that sold replica soccer jerseys. He said he was a wholesaler and got club logos directly from a supplier in California. He heat presses the jerseys, and I did not see any press marks. I was so busy that I did not even cross my mind to ask him what his technique was, but now I went from it being part of heat pressing to having marks, and how big companies heat press without marks. Adidas, Nike, Rebox, etc... all use heat-applied printing methods for some of their garments and I never see heat press marks.

Does anyone have any input on how this is accomplished?

Not to be a jerk but yes I have adjusted pressure, I have used both Teflon pads and sheets on top and bottom, I have used mouse pads, and I have sprayed my shirt with h20.....what else is there...???


Thanks!!!


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## DynamiteGraphics

Hi there!
I know you said you have used teflon pads but I would suggest a "teflon pillow" inside the jersey. It disperses the pressure more evenly than those mouse pads which still give you a hard surface. We do soccer jerseys this way and don't run into problems.


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## vipgraphx

Thanks I will try it!!


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## lunaticfridge

We had two sets of press marks: one from the edge of the platen, and one from the edge of the paper. Here's how I fixed it:

I cut a pad of heat-resistant foam to the size of the platen and then rounded off the edges so there's no hard edge to leave a press mark. (I used a pair of scissors to do this, which results in the foam looking like I cut it with a machete, but whatever, it worked.) Then I put a teflon pad over that and held it in place with heat-resistant tape. That removed the press mark from the platen.

I made sure to use paper that was larger than my new, slightly smaller print area. If the edge of the paper hangs off the platen (or off the rounded edges, in any case), there is no press mark from the paper. 

I tend not to use a whole sheet for really small images, such as left-chest or sleeve images, so still get a press mark from those. Bigger paper would fix that, but I'm cheap.


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## aaguirre08

I have been using teflon pillows and still get the markings


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## EssenceGold

Anybody know how to avoid the ghosting marks? I use the tee pad it and keep getting the marks on the clothes no matter the fabric. Do I need to loosen the pressure or do I need something softer such as foam?


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## Babydoll

Has anyone come up with a solution to the heat press mark issue?


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## ambitious

Pressure seems to be a major issue that leaves marks when heat pressing.. Loosen it up and not enough pressure lol Thats the only down side on heat pressing, but, no need to worry, press marks go away within a few hours. Cheers


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## pmzirkle

Buy cold peel transfers made for poly that press on at 320 degrees or less and you will eliminate press lines


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## Babydoll

The issue I am having is with the polyesters, I know the marks on the cotton will go away, but the poly is difficult for me.


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## pmzirkle

You are using too much heat. Poly pressed at 320 degrees or less will not get platen marks. Anything above is actually melting the fabric. We use a lot of Signwarehouse Resolve shirt transfer vinyl and elasto-stretch transfers. They all go on using 320 degrees of less. Ace, Transfer Express, Stahls etc all offer low temp transfers made just for the sport wicking poly type shirts. If you use regular transfers that go on at 365-385 degrees you will continue to melt/scorch platen marks into poly apparel.


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## islandjim

Quick intro: Total newb, did my first sub prints on Dri fit shirts yesterday. Looked great except for the bloody press marks.

Your advice worked for me. Turned down the heat to 155 deg C, and also placed a towel between the garment and the rubber mat. Worked like a charm!

Great advice, thanks a mill


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## reggieprints

I am heat pressing sublimation photos on polyester sports shirts and can't avoid leaving marks on the shirts. I know from reading these posts that 400 degrees is the reason but I am assuming this high temp is needed because of the sublimation. 

I have used a square mouse pad and teflon paper over the shirt.

Any suggestions?


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## Peachykeen

pmzirkle said:


> You are using too much heat. Poly pressed at 320 degrees or less will not get platen marks. Anything above is actually melting the fabric. We use a lot of Signwarehouse Resolve shirt transfer vinyl and elasto-stretch transfers. They all go on using 320 degrees of less. Ace, Transfer Express, Stahls etc all offer low temp transfers made just for the sport wicking poly type shirts. If you use regular transfers that go on at 365-385 degrees you will continue to melt/scorch platen marks into poly apparel.


I pressed some HTV at less than 320 and still have platen outlines. I'm holding my breath that the products don't get returned to me!


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## br1ght

reggieprints said:


> I am heat pressing sublimation photos on polyester sports shirts and can't avoid leaving marks on the shirts. I know from reading these posts that 400 degrees is the reason but I am assuming this high temp is needed because of the sublimation.
> 
> I have used a square mouse pad and teflon paper over the shirt.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Use a bottom platen cover. I have one from SignsplusBanners.com (I don's see it in their catalog anymore but there are others out there), it looks like a heavyweight denim with multiple layers of fleece under for padding... I like it better than pillows as it wraps the platen so edges fade out instead of being distinct like that can happen with a pillow... 

Before I had the cover, I used high temp 1/2"open cell foam used for dye sublimation that I'll cut beveling the edges with scissors on about a 60 degree angle...

On high dollar stuff such as jackets, I have steam out the edges with a moderately stiff brush... and presto, that $30 garbage blank is still going out the door for $$$

Lastly, sometimes I would be heavy handed with the pressure so if I dialed it down a little problem solved...


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## tfike

We have been doing heat transfers on poly for years and I've tried pretty much everything you guys have suggested. We still get the press marks even on transfers that are applied at 285 degrees with low-pressure settings. 

I know part of the problem with the garments we use in particular is that with these wicking fabrics, the polyester threads are actually hollow tubes and the heat pressing flattens out the threads, which is why you see the press marks. 

We even have issues with white garments when the garments are made of wicking fabric. Now we sublimate polyester mesh football jerseys and you don't see any lines on them because the fibers aren't hollow. We have basically stopped putting transfers on poly garments and just screen-printed them, which is a whole other set of problems.


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## canadian gator

I have managed to perfect a method that works for me. 

POLYESTER TEES (only works with hot peel vinyl)
Teflon pillow around 2" thick just smaller than the heat press base (I made mine from fire proof foam and a Teflon sheet, cut the foam to size and round the edge with a hot knife) 
Press set at 140c, Medium pressure and 20 secs 
Quick 5 sec press making sure the Teflon sheet covers the whole surface, then remove the carrier sheet carefully
Cover with Teflon sheet and press for full time (usually 20 secs)

Same setup with cotton tees and hoodies except put the temp up to 160c

I use the AWDis cool tees and have no marks/lines, I do around 20 or so a week. What can happen is you have a light box where the heat press hit the garment, if this happens lower the pressure. It will still be there slightly but will fade on the edges because of the pillow. Red is the worst colour for this.


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## bwdesigns

I use the Flexible silicon application pad from Stahls and never have a problem. Couldn't live without it.


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## Billy01

bwdesigns said:


> I use the Flexible silicon application pad from Stahls and never have a problem. Couldn't live without it.


Agree with this, the Flexible Application Pad fixed this issue for me. You may need to increase the pressing time by about 4-5 seconds or increase the temperature by a few degrees when using the pad but it all but eliminates he press marks.


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## Marjeni4353

Thanks all of you. I got an answer of my recent confusion.


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## lulululu

ink not dried enough when you transfer?


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## RealTrading

pmzirkle said:


> You are using too much heat. Poly pressed at 320 degrees or less will not get platen marks..



Does this apply to sublimation process? How long should i press? 35 sec?
320 farenheit, right?


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## pipeandwire

bwdesigns said:


> I use the Flexible silicon application pad from Stahls and never have a problem. Couldn't live without it.


Are u using a pillow or pad under the shirt? and what temp and how long is working for u. I'm using a 16x20 swing away @390 for 45 seconds on A4 wicking tshirts and I'm getting the heat square. I thought it was from the parchment paper and am looking into either kraft paper or the flexible pad I saw on their video. wondering what setting will have to be adjusted too if I go that route?? thnx
I should also mention I'm doing sublimation and going to be doing reg ink transfer as well. on your time and temps which are u doing ink or sub?


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## pipeandwire

DynamiteGraphics said:


> Hi there!
> I know you said you have used teflon pads but I would suggest a "teflon pillow" inside the jersey. It disperses the pressure more evenly than those mouse pads which still give you a hard surface. We do soccer jerseys this way and don't run into problems.


@ what temperature and how long ??


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## pipeandwire

pmzirkle said:


> You are using too much heat. Poly pressed at 320 degrees or less will not get platen marks. Anything above is actually melting the fabric. We use a lot of Signwarehouse Resolve shirt transfer vinyl and elasto-stretch transfers. They all go on using 320 degrees of less. Ace, Transfer Express, Stahls etc all offer low temp transfers made just for the sport wicking poly type shirts. If you use regular transfers that go on at 365-385 degrees you will continue to melt/scorch platen marks into poly apparel.


what about sublimation on poly wicking shirts ? what temp and how long ? have u been successful?
thnx


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## jiaprints

i sublimate on white poly all the time, i have no issues because i use the heatfoam and transfer paper overlap technique, i get no creases, no melting of the polyester (not even at 205 deg. cel.), and no discolouration of the white fabric. BUT, HOLD ON!!! as soon as i get into colours, wether it be polyester fabrics or even COTTON t shirts, i get discolouration marks where the heatpress pressed. so the problem doesn't seem to be temp or pressure issues, I THINK THAT THE SHIRT COMPANIES ARE USING CHEAP INKS NOWADAYS DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL RESTRICTIONS ON SOLVENT BASED DYES/PIGMENTS and whatever they use to colour garments, AND I'M THINKING THE CHEAP INKS CAN'T HANDLE THE PRESSURES AND HEAT LIKE THEY USE TO SO THEY DISCOLOUR. to test my theory, i will try a different supplier who maybe uses better quality inks to colour there garments but i feel that this won't be possible anymore.


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## brildor

Para los hispanohablantes aquí tenéis un post que habla de cómo solucionar las marcas de planchado.
Un saludo a todos!!
https://goo.gl/Y4z69q


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## bhtee

in my case, i found that it depends on the garment. fr example, i do DTG printing. and being having problems with pretreatment marks, being trying lot of diferent techniques. somes help somes not. but i found that when i use real Ringspun garments i have no marks. so in my case, depends on the garment fibers


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## uruguacho

DynamiteGraphics said:


> Hi there!
> I know you said you have used teflon pads but I would suggest a "teflon pillow" inside the jersey. It disperses the pressure more evenly than those mouse pads which still give you a hard surface. We do soccer jerseys this way and don't run into problems.


What is the suggestion while heat transfer cut panels instead of finished garments?


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