# Sublimation prints Too Faint!



## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

I have a stupid question that may be because of my method or garment.

I have been using sublimation to make mugs, mouse mats and so on but today I have attempted to make a subli t-shirt but found that it came out too faint. I must admit that I have tried these on a 50/50 mix of cotton and polyester. Would I get best result on 100% polyester?

I have made several presses on 2 t-shirts (used as rag samples) and they all come out white washed or faded and I can see most of the subi ink on the paper. 

I have the press set at 200c which is about 400f and a heavy pressure with a timing of 18 seconds. With 18 seconds it starts to scorch slighlty so I dont think I need to increase the time.

Any advice or tips anyone?


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## cprvh (Jan 23, 2006)

Dye sublimation typically requires polyester fabrics. As you have seen the resulting image is not nearly as bright and bold as on 100% polyester. The more poly content the brighter your graphics will be. 

We have several customers using 50/50 and 65/35 blends. Most using the 50/50 blends are actually after the faded or fashion forward look. I would suggest dropping your temp down to 365°F and increasing your dwell time. Depending on the fabric, you should be able to press 35-45 seconds without scorching.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

cprvh said:


> I would suggest dropping your temp down to 365°F and increasing your dwell time. Depending on the fabric, you should be able to press 35-45 seconds without scorching.


Thanks for that, I will give it a go inn the morning. So 365f will be about 170-180c.

I think I will get the normal 100% polyester. The one i made is for a friend so i wont tell him anything and see what he says.

Thanks again.


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## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

What Ron said. Dye sublimation inks do not bond with cotton (or other natural fabrics), so the bigger % of cotton you have in your tee - the more faded print you will get.

On 100% poly you should be able to get very vibrant results. I'm normally pressing at 385-390°F for 40-60 sec at light to medium pressure (depending on the garment) without scorching. Do you use Teflon sheet to cover the shirt?


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## conde tech (Nov 15, 2007)

You can not sublimate to 50/50 blend t-shirts regardless of what temp and time you use. The only way you can subliamate to a 50/50 blend shirt is one designed for sublimation....the shirt will be poly on the outside and cotton on the inside.


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## PressForProfit (Jun 11, 2008)

Amor365 said:


> I have a stupid question that may be because of my method or garment.
> 
> I have been using sublimation to make mugs, mouse mats and so on but today I have attempted to make a subli t-shirt but found that it came out too faint. I must admit that I have tried these on a 50/50 mix of cotton and polyester. Would I get best result on 100% polyester?
> 
> ...


We also have customers that successfully press shirts with 50/50 poly cotton and dye sub inks for an intentional faded look. Make sure you do some wash testing in your washing machine.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

D.Evo. said:


> I'm normally pressing at 385-390°F for 40-60 sec at light to medium pressure (depending on the garment) without scorching. Do you use Teflon sheet to cover the shirt?


Thats interesting. I might give that a go, I allways thought that amount of time would scorch the garment regardless the pressure given.

I will feedback on this.


Thanks for all the replies so far, will give them all a go.

Paulo


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## jberte (Mar 25, 2007)

i typically use medium pressure for 50-60 seconds but always with a teflon sheet - no scorching  and always on a garment with a 100% poly outer shell.


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## Amor365 (Jan 14, 2008)

jberte said:


> i typically use medium pressure for 50-60 seconds but always with a teflon sheet - no scorching  and always on a garment with a 100% poly outer shell.


 
What temperature would you be doing that at?


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## jberte (Mar 25, 2007)

oops, sorry, thought i typed that in! 400 deg F


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## DiamondSu (Jul 18, 2009)

Have just read this thread and have been printing mugs (via sub) and t-shirts (via vinyl and transfer) with great success. I am starting sub t-shirt/polo shirt printing now but my first attempt was on a 
65/35 Poly/cotton white polo shirt
Using sub paper/sub ink
Epson S20 printer
Temp: 170 c
Time: 35 seconds
Used a teflon sheet so no scorching

but print came out dark grey and like previous member the black print was still quite vibrant on the sub paper. I note there are differing times and temperatures so maybe need to experiment on both, but my customers cannot always wait for me to get it right! 

Any general guidelines would be greatly appreciated. 

Sue


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## jberte (Mar 25, 2007)

hi sue! as i indicated above, i press for an average 55-60 secs at 400 deg farenheit. black is the last color to gas out and anything that has black as the primary color in your design will usually require a bit longer.


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## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

Sue,

To get a perfect print on fabric the basic requirements are:

1. You need to use sublimation inks and paper

2. Make sure you are printing on the right side of the paper

3. Printing on 100% polyester garments - if there is a cotton % in the garment, you should be prepared to loose just as many % of vibrancy of the design, because dye-sub inks will not adhere to cotton. Blends are a good if you want to achieve "distressed" look.

4. The temperature is about 200C/400F

5. Your time is about 45 - 60 sec (there are variations between different types of fabric, some things I, for example, press even for 100-140 sec)

6. Light to medium pressure to avoid press marks/paper lines/shine

7. Inserts of different sizes are recommended to alleviate pressing area and reduce press lines and they are also very important when pressing polo's, tops with zips, already printed shirts

8. Teflon sheet

8. Lint rolling your garment before pressing will reduce a chance of contamination, specks, dust, etc.


Fellow "dye-subers" may want to add to the list.

You sure DO need to experiment! Every new substrate/type of fabric will have to be tested to achieve the best results  It's all fun! Just don't forget to write down your best settings as you find them.

Good luck!


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## DiamondSu (Jul 18, 2009)

Thanks for your prompt replies. I guess I will need to experiment "big time" in my own time, to avoid loss of customers! 

I will try your methods time/temp etc. I guess I'm always wary of scorching or setting fire to the building so tend not to leave as long as I should. 

I was sent a file from a printer regarding profiles for sublimation dye inks, but to be honest cannot make head or tails of what it's about. I gather my inks are okay because they print effectively on other substrates, but just not on my polos/tees. Thanks again and I'll keep posting as I get results. 

Tania: Great tip given -- I must definitely start to write things down!


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## BigBear (Aug 15, 2007)

Amor365 said:


> I have a stupid question that may be because of my method or garment.
> 
> I have been using sublimation to make mugs, mouse mats and so on but today I have attempted to make a subli t-shirt but found that it came out too faint. I must admit that I have tried these on a 50/50 mix of cotton and polyester. Would I get best result on 100% polyester?
> 
> Any advice or tips anyone?


The lower the polyester content, the duller the look. 50/50 are usually (if at all) only used for specific looks, usually for an "Old World" or distressed look. 

The right image can be pretty cool. I have a client that specializes in reproducing 20's and 30's posters on sublimated 50/50 shirts. He made one and sent it to me.

The image looks like a faded WW1 recruiting poster. It urges you to "Earn while you learn, by joining the US Army Air Corps". The picture includes Bi-planes, dirigibles and other modern machines.

I get a lot of comments when I wear it. Unfortunately some revolve around asking me if I got the shirt when I joined ;-)

No, normally you would never use 50/50 shirts for sublimation. However, the story is a great example of matching creative thinking with the right kind of marketing.

I've written a short piece in my August newsletter, touching the above subject. As Mike Vance, a former creative director for DisneyLand once stated, "Creativity is rearranging the old and creating the new".


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## DiamondSu (Jul 18, 2009)

Great quote by Mike Vance... Very relevant point re the print looking somewhat retro but also some mistakes come good... I recently printed a babies bib which had a pink border - the logo was red, but unbeknown to me (it was the customer's item) it turned out to be 100% cotton - the print obviously came out baby pink instead of the red I'd printed. No one could be more pleased than my customer, said it matched the pink border perfectly! Mistake? Who said mistake? Thanks for the info. 

Sue


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## chizzel (Aug 3, 2009)

DiamondSu said:


> Have just read this thread and have been printing mugs (via sub) and t-shirts (via vinyl and transfer) with great success. I am starting sub t-shirt/polo shirt printing now but my first attempt was on a
> 65/35 Poly/cotton white polo shirt
> Using sub paper/sub ink
> Epson S20 printer
> ...


 
I too have the same printer and havejust set it all up and when i have printed the images out on the sub paper the image isnt very acurate on colour. could you help me out, how do i set up the colour. is there any icc profiles i need to have installed, i have looked around on internet and cant find one for the s20  and when i press the image to the mousematt or t-shirt its very dull.

PLEASEEEEEEEEEEE HELP


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## DiamondSu (Jul 18, 2009)

I'm actually testing another shirt today with longer pressing times and slightly higher temp. Practice makes perfect, and all that!!!

As said before all inks/papers and substrates must be made for sublimation to achieve anywhere near perfection. The rest seems to be up to temperature/pressing times etc. 

I too was unable to locate profiles for the S20, received a file from an ink distributor for icc profiles, but it would not work with the S20. Not sure if there is one for the S20. 

I'll write again later with my printing results. 

Sue


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## beerrubio (Dec 20, 2016)

I bought a bolt of 50/50 cotton poly for sublimation and it came out horrible. I googled it when the company would not call back and explain how to properly sublimate it since they NEVER said one side was the poly.

David, your have helped me more than you will ever know!
and this answer was waiting since 2008!





conde tech said:


> You can not sublimate to 50/50 blend t-shirts regardless of what temp and time you use. The only way you can subliamate to a 50/50 blend shirt is one designed for sublimation....the shirt will be poly on the outside and cotton on the inside.


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## MissyC (Sep 2, 2018)

My Prints on 100% polyester are too faint. I am using a SAWGRASS with DyeTrans ink. The Color is great from the printer ( I AM printing on the correct side)
I am pressing at 400 for 45 seconds. I have tried 400 for 35 seconds and 400 for 60 seconds.
I have also tested on 50% 50% blends.
I have used a teflon pad. I have used paper in between shirt and press.
Interesting Note... The color on paper is still bright after printing (no fade)
Help.
I have read and re read several posts about this but I am still NOT having good results.


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## webtrekker (Jan 28, 2018)

MissyC said:


> My Prints on 100% polyester are too faint. I am using a SAWGRASS with DyeTrans ink. The Color is great from the printer ( I AM printing on the correct side)
> I am pressing at 400 for 45 seconds. I have tried 400 for 35 seconds and 400 for 60 seconds.
> I have also tested on 50% 50% blends.
> I have used a teflon pad. I have used paper in between shirt and press.
> ...





You don't say what brand of paper you are using. It is sublimation paper, right?


Another possibility could be that your press isn't working correctly and not heating up to the indicated temperature.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

MissyC said:


> Interesting Note... The color on paper is still bright after printing (no fade)



Sublimation ink on transfer paper is not 'bright'. Either before or after pressing. It's dull and washed out looking. It only becomes bright after it is infused into the fabric during pressing.


Are you sure you're using sublimation ink? 



Post pictures of the ink on a transfer and your press result.


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## MissyC (Sep 2, 2018)

I am using sublimation paper (one side white one side is duller) I am using DyeTrans brand ink


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## webtrekker (Jan 28, 2018)

MissyC said:


> I am using sublimation paper (one side white one side is duller) I am using DyeTrans brand ink


Yes, but what ink is it exactly? SubliJet-R?


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## Jldelange84 (Jul 25, 2021)

MissyC said:


> My Prints on 100% polyester are too faint. I am using a SAWGRASS with DyeTrans ink. The Color is great from the printer ( I AM printing on the correct side)
> I am pressing at 400 for 45 seconds. I have tried 400 for 35 seconds and 400 for 60 seconds.
> I have also tested on 50% 50% blends.
> I have used a teflon pad. I have used paper in between shirt and press.
> ...


I know this is an old post but mine is doing the exact same thing did you ever get it figured out?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Jldelange84 said:


> I know this is an old post but mine is doing the exact same thing did you ever get it figured out?


Same question as in 2018. Are you sure you are using Sublijet-R ink? Is that what is printed on your ink box?


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## Jldelange84 (Jul 25, 2021)

splathead said:


> Same question as in 2018. Are you sure you are using Sublijet-R ink? Is that what is printed on your ink box?


No I’m using Cosmos ink with a sub paper but I’m having the same issue. I was hoping what worked for the original poster would work for me


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Jldelange84 said:


> No I’m using Cosmos ink with a sub paper but I’m having the same issue. I was hoping what worked for the original poster would work for me


Post a picture of your Cosmos Ink bottle. Does it specifically say 'Sublimation'?


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## Jldelange84 (Jul 25, 2021)

splathead said:


> Post a picture of your Cosmos Ink bottle. Does it specifically say 'Sublimation'?


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

That is definitely sublimation ink. OK, now on to your printer. What are you using, did it have ink in it before the sublimation or was it new? Your picture looks like a bottle for Ecotanks? If it did have ink in it before, you may stil be printing with the old ink if it was not cleaned properly.


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