# printing multi color jobs from PS to accurip



## doleboy (Mar 8, 2009)

my workflow is as follows: start in either adobe photoshop or illustrator --> accurip via the print command/driver --> epson 3000.
so far i have had success printing one color photographic images from PS. i simply print to the accurip driver and accurip will RIP and print my film according to the settings i specified in the accurip preferences (i.e. the LPI and screen angle). not too complicated.
i feel i am ready to step up to multi-color halftone projects now (i.e. process color and simulated process), but i am a bit unsure on the proper work flow for printing films when coming from photoshop.

i have my color separations taken care of already. i have a file with 4 separate channels: cyan, magenta, yellow and an underbase white (to be printed on a black garment). this is where i am not sure how to proceed. my questions:

1.) should i hide all the channels but one and print each channel manually through a separate print command? this would be equivalent to sending 4 separate files through accurip. or am i able to send all 4 channels simultaneously (ie. send the whole file) to accurip and have accurip sort everything out like it does when printing multiple spot colors from illustrator?

2.) if i am able to send all 4 channels to accurip at the same time, does accurip automatically choose different screen angles for each color? how would this work on a simulated process project that has, say, 7 channels?

3.) having accurip determine all the settings automatically sounds great, but this might be problematic, as i was planning on printing my white underbase through a 230 mesh screen and my colors through a 305. i would therefore need to selectively lower the LPI setting for the white channel. i assume then that i need to send each channel manually from PS to accurip and change accurip's settings in between each print?

4.) this leads me to my next question: if i were to manually print each channel, i can only assume that the screen angle would not change for each separate color. would i therefore have to manually change accurip's settings between prints? or does accurip auctomatically see that a channel is named "cyan" and sets it to the proper corresponding screen angle? (for some reason i doubt it does)

5.) and if i need to manually set screen angles, is there a general guideline for determining screen angles for 7+ channel simulated process files? 15 degrees per color?

thanks in advance


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

these are all great questions....I wish I knew the answers..I dont .....I am curious to see what the answer is ....I have always printed 1 channel at a time thru accurip....

Inked


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## doleboy (Mar 8, 2009)

so inked, are you manually changing your screen angles in accurip's settings before you send each channel out to print?

do you lower the LPI for the white underbase to use a lower mesh count? i thought about this some more and realized that it would be best to leave the LPI the same for all the screens. printing 55 LPI should hold in a 230 mesh. so i figure print the underbase with a 230 and the colors with 305's.

now i am wondering what the best way to choke a halftoned white underbase would be... contracting the selection by 1 or 2 px affects the tones throughout the image (darkening any non-solid areas of white). i only want to choke the sharp defined edges of the graphic for easier registration. i assume i would just use a layer mask to selectively choke the sharp edges and leave the feathered edges of the graphic untouched.


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

I use the same screen angles for all of my multi colored jobs....the next 4 color process job I do I will use different screen angles.....until then I have to manualy change it in accurip.

Inked


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## tdigital (Sep 14, 2008)

I made a quick video to show how to accomplish this..

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLFFbTaIKjE[/media]


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

quick question ...in the video you didnt have a black channel...why is this?
if I have a 4 color process job I would need to use cmyk mode.......correct me if Im wrong.

Inked


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## tdigital (Sep 14, 2008)

Yes, you would need a black channel.. I started with an RGB image and as opposed to converting to CMYK, I simply changed the image mode to multi-channel which disregards the K channel.

If you convert to CMKY, you'll have the K channel.

When you print with the separations option, every channel that has its visibility turned on will print. Make sure you have the "labels" set to print when you go that route so you can easily and quickly distinguish which film is which.

The more "advanced" / "proper" way to complete this process involves saving to DCS, importing into illustrator and printing the color plates from there, which allows you to take advantage of vector elements in your design as well as having a film template with registration marks that aren't too small to use effectively.
You may also need additional SPOT channels in your 4CP printing, which depends on your design.
There's a LOT more to 4CP printing than simply converting to CMYK, but you can find virtually everything u need to know by searching the forum and various sites on the net.


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## doleboy (Mar 8, 2009)

thanks tdigital, you really went above and beyond.
do you have a unique screen angle for the underbase white? if i am printing on a black garement and am not using a black channel, i assume i would just use the black's screen angle for white?

regarding the addition of vector elements, you can also place .ai files as smart objects in PS. as long as they don't get rasterized along the way you'll still retain the benefits of working with a vector based file. hell even with bitmap based composites, i embed the bitmaps as smart objects just so i can have the flexibility to scale and transform an object later if i need to.


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## tdigital (Sep 14, 2008)

Your underbase white will be on a lower mesh count than the remaining screens you're using. I always use 280 mesh for the CMYK screens, but for the underbase, depending on the hand required and if i'm using plastisol for the underbase (RARE), I'll use a 155 @ 35lpi, with the angle not being as important here as it is for the other screens.

FYI, I generally always discharge my underbases when doing 4CP on darks.


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## doleboy (Mar 8, 2009)

thanks for the info - i planned on discharging my base, but i a not having luck with wilflex's NF plascharge base on american apparel black tees. it always discharges out to a reddish-brown fiber color. adding white plastisol ink at 50% (as per the plascharge instructions) doesn't help a whole lot.

do you print the base first and then print wet on wet over it? or do you flash the discharge base and then print over that. what about flashing between the C, M and Y?


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## tdigital (Sep 14, 2008)

Base then wet on wet.. if its straight discharge you can do that.. 
You probably need to flash that plasticharge. I've never used plasticharge so ymmv.

I always and only use matsui discharge inks.


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## doleboy (Mar 8, 2009)

at the time of posting the original question, i felt it would also be a good idea to send to accurip for their input. i was very impressed when owner charlie facini emailed me back personally with answers to every question i had. this is the proper way to run a business! anyone looking for rip software should weigh this kind of service into the equation and seriously consider accurip.

*in a nut shell:
-always lock screens to the same angle. rosette patterns in screenprinting are bad.
-underbase white should be printed on the same mesh and LPI as the other screens
-this applies for 4 color process and simulated process
-flash underbase, print colors wet on wet*

here is his response (i've stripped out personal contact info):


> Those are very many questions, I will do my best to answer.
> 
> Replies below.
> 
> ...


and on a subsequent email, i asked about simulated process with non-transparent inks and locked screens. he mentioned this:



> Use single angle for all your print processes especially simulated. Its called Flemenco and its the original and proper print method for all halftone print style. Do not dry between colors as you will stop the ink from mixing. Wet on wet flashing only the base screen.
> 
> The print world no longer uses rosettes at least those that have learned how bad they are.
> 
> ...


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## tdigital (Sep 14, 2008)

do a search for this single angle thing on the forum. we went through a whole long debate about that.. 

I switched from the single angle. Do what works best for you. Notice he's suggesting you use 230s for everything.. The single angle thing can cause problems @ 55lpi and up...


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

I use a single angle on 305's ..I tried on 230's but didnt hold the fine detail I was looking for......although I didnt need a white base...so I probably would use a 230 for the base and 305's for the rest...

Inked


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