# Home made hooping station



## sandollar

I've read up on making DTG machines,Dryers,etc. but nothing on home made hooping stations. I am real good at building things with wood. And don't have the money for one of the fancy units. So I was hoping to make one, hooping freehand is getting old real fast. I just can't seem to be able to find any info on them. Any guidance would be muchly appreciated.


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## XYLisa

We bought a couple of the hoopers for our machines...believe me I know how sore you get from hooping.
Didn't have arthritis but now I do from all the hooping and printing! I'd look online surely you could find a pic and duplicate it out of wood, then make the platen/hoop holder out of wood and a router maybe... be worth a shot because hoopers aren't cheap but yet well worth the money! Good luck.


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## Allender

I agree, we have a "hoop MAster" setup. consider duplicating one of those systems. they work good i think. good luck


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## rhstubby

After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A. 
I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.

Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)


Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)

Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
Details of construction:
1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board). 
2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3). 
b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs). 
c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.

Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


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## Java12

Thank you. Have been looking for something like this and have found nothing before your post.
[email protected] Would love pdf with images


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## jdwaterhouse

This sounds great. I would love a copy to make my own.
[email protected]


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## Richdesigner18

Could you please send me your design? It sounds like a great idea. [email protected]


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## Poppophoneygram

Plz email me your PDF. I've been trying to design one for my woodworking hubby. [email protected]


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## Poppophoneygram

Plz email me your PDF. I've been trying to design one for my woodworking hubby. [email protected]


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## binki

I would think you would just need a shirt platten from a screen print setup, that shape anyway and some placement holes you can put dowels in to hold the hoop and stabilizer, slip the shirt over it and you are done. Maybe not even dowels but guides.


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## jwpenkman

Could you email me the pdf please, would like to see how it works. [email protected]


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## MintykaPinty

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Hi, Please do send the pdf. Thanks [email protected]


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## KittenToes

Please send a pdf to meowmie [at] comcast [dot] net. Thank you so much for your response and your creativity.



rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


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## metis

Would appreciate the pdf file, thanks -- [email protected]


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## eclay

I would like the PDF as well. thank you
[email protected]


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## eclay

[email protected]


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## FRANLOR2

Could you send me a copy? 
Thank you
[email protected]


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## Lizardgirl

May I have a copy of the PDF also, please? Hopefully it has pictures too! [email protected] Thank you!


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## DancingBay

Please email the pdf or your plans to [email protected]


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## tjarman

I would love a pdf of the instructions - [email protected]

Thank you!


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## tjarman

rhstubby said:


> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


I would love a copy of the pdf instructions. [email protected]

Thank you!


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## ejansen7759

I have been looking for a diy hooping station. Would you please send me pdf directions to [email protected]. Very much appreciate it.


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## amandaswards

Could you please email me the pdf of your hooping stations?
[email protected]


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## Mj2505

Could you see me a copy of the pdf? Thanks in Advance.
[email protected]


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## chinook

I would like to receive your PDF as well. Thanks. [email protected]


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## Mary Carlton

Re hooping station; I would love to have a copy of your PDF of home made hooping station. Thank you in advance MCarlton [email protected]


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## GrandmaLori54

Could you please send me the PDF for you DIY Hooping station. My email is 
[email protected] 

Thank you,
Lori Chvojka


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## GrandmaLori54

Could you please send me the PDF for you DIY Hooping station. My email is 
[email protected] 

Thank you,
Lori Chvojka


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## dtgilleland

Please send me the PDF - [email protected]


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## 919435

Hi 

I would love to have a copy of the PDF. 

Thank you
[email protected]


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## pknavarro

Could you please send me a copy of the pdf instructions. Thank you for your work.

[email protected]


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## jwpenkman

Has anyone received the pdf?


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## SD Designs

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Hi, I would really love the pdf for the hooping station if thats possible.


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## djque

you could just buy the hoop master mighty hoop starter kit and be done.$541.99 I have all 3 sizes stations


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## SD Designs

Hi thanks for reposting the making instructions. Could you email me so I have pictures too. Email address is [email protected]. Many thanks x


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## SD Designs

*Photos for hooping station*

Hi thanks for reposting the making instructions. Could you email me so I have pictures too. Email address is [email protected]. Many thanks x


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## kevinx1

Hi please can you send me the PDF file .
[email protected] 
Many thanks
Kevin

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


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## SD Designs

My email is [email protected]


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## MFou

Thank you for posting this. I'd love a pdf mailed to me also as my husband has offered to make a station for me. Mary 
[email protected]


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## 777Rockstar

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Please could you send mi this PDF, , would like to see how it works * [email protected]*


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## Mimi2

Please send me a PDF of this pattern to [email protected]. Thank you Stella


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## gmax35

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Hi, greetins from Brazil
I'm sherching for blueprints or schemes to build one of the Hooping stations that i've seen on the internet, because it's not avaliable for sell here, and the import will cost the price of an little embroidery machine. LOL.
so, can you please send me the related pdf, so I can try make one of my own ? thaks man!
[email protected]


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## gmax35

Hi, greetins from Brazil
I'm sherching for blueprints or schemes to build one of the Hooping stations that i've seen on the internet, because it's not avaliable for sell here, and the import will cost the price of an little embroidery machine. LOL.
so, can you please send me the related pdf, so I can try make one of my own ? thaks man!
[email protected]


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## rick1970

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Id like a copy please, [email protected], Thanks


----------



## derpko

Hi, may I please get a copy as well! 


[email protected]


----------



## nikcowgirl

KittenToes said:


> Please send a pdf to meowmie [at] comcast [dot] net. Thank you so much for your response and your creativity.


I would love to see the pictures that you described in your message. [email protected]


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## nikcowgirl

Please send pictures, I would love to try to make this for myself. Thank you, [email protected]


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## Brian

So if any of you have gotten the pictures and are able to re-post them can you please do so???
Thanks


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## George Sar

would love some pdfs, thank you in advance
[email protected]


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## Prints28

I also would like a set of plans in pdf format. I'm very handy at building stuff. Send to [email protected] thanks a bunch!


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## Miss Ks

Please send me the pdf file. I have been searching for something that is not so expensive. [email protected]


----------



## Smacker

Sheesh!! Is it that difficult to send an e-mail or post some pictures?


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## greedykind

Hey my name is Charlie and I would love to have plans for hooping station please.Thanks in advance [email protected]


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## Miss Ks

Would you please share your photos with me. [email protected] Thank you


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## Valroper

Would love a pdf of your plans. Please send to [email protected]



rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1.	Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2.	I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3.	The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1.	Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2.	Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3.	I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a.	I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b.	I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c.	Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


----------



## Asha123

Valroper said:


> Would love a pdf of your plans. Please send to [email protected]


Can you please send the pdf. Will appreciate it a lot.my mail id is [email protected] you


----------



## Lynn2583

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


I would love a copy of the images. This sounds perfect you put s lot of work and thought into it. My email is [email protected] thank you!


----------



## mike995

Hello rhstubby
I would greatly appreciate a copy of the pdf instructions, thank you. 
[email protected]


----------



## Saybin

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Hello rhstubby
I would greatly appreciate a copy of the pdf instructions, thank you. [email protected]


----------



## Garee

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


i know years have passed but if you or anyone else are still able to send the pdf with photos I’d greatly appreciate it [email protected]


----------



## WordUpssuussu

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


[email protected]


----------



## Wince77

Hi Can i get a pdf of your design for the for the embroidery hoop board please?
[email protected].

Thanks
Winston


----------



## Nessfrog

WordUpssuussu said:


> [email protected]


please send me your design it sounds good and I would like to build it.


----------



## cdias82

please send to me [email protected]
thanks


----------



## kohlndk

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


that is so cool. could you send me a copy to [email protected]

thanks ken


----------



## MsShawn

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.



Hi, I am hoping that the pdf you were offering for the hooping station is still available.
If so, can you please forward a copy to *[email protected].*

Thank you in advance!
MsShawn


----------



## itsonlyright718

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.



can you email it to me [email protected]


----------



## abellsembroidery

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Please can you send me a copy of the PDF version for the above post : [email protected]

Thanking you in advance.
Have a blessed day.


----------



## rebls0621

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Id live to have the pdf version of this! Thanx in advance


----------



## DIYowl

I would love a PDF as well to have my very own hooping station.
Thank you in advance
[email protected]


----------



## Sonshinesherrie

sandollar said:


> I've read up on making DTG machines,Dryers,etc. but nothing on home made hooping stations. I am real good at building things with wood. And don't have the money for one of the fancy units. So I was hoping to make one, hooping freehand is getting old real fast. I just can't seem to be able to find any info on them. Any guidance would be muchly appreciated.





MintykaPinty said:


> Hi, Please do send the pdf. Thanks [email protected]





rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Hello. Could you please send me the pattern for your hoop station? [email protected]
Thank you


----------



## ANDREW CROWLEY

You could buy the mighty hoop starter kit and be done. $541.99 None of them are bigger than the other two.


----------



## Queenoid

I would be very interested in this hooping station. Has anyone been successful in obtaining the plans? How did they work?


----------



## Mariamiram

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


hi, could you email me the pdf? [email protected]


----------



## Augustgirl

Please send pdf & pics to [email protected]


----------



## sreagan07

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


[email protected]


----------



## ginnyh112

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


Would love to make one! Please send PDF. [email protected]


----------



## teeshatsandstuff

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


i'd like a pdf and pics if you still have it. [email protected]


----------



## owenjbus19

I would love a pdf of this also. Brilliant. I can’t afford to shell out $100’s right now and need a valuable tool to help with production. Thank you.


----------



## petanas

Hi!
I'm from Spain. I'd love a PDF with the instructions. [email protected]


----------



## bholmes301

rhstubby said:


> After looking at various Hooping Stations, I found the one I wanted was unavailable. It was being resupplied from overseas and was going to take nearly 60 days before sales could even resume here in the U.S.A.
> I chose to make my own Hooping Station from a scrap of Peg Board, plywood and thin clear acrylic sheets. Here’s what I did for those handy with tools.
> 1. Cut my peg board in three sizes; one for large shirts, one for medium shirts and one for toddler shirts. The sizes are as follows. All are approximately 20 inches long. Small is 8 ¾” wide, Medium is 13” wide and the large is 17” wide. Each has a tapper to approximate the neck shape.
> 2. I mounted the pegboard templates to a piece of ¾” plywood 16” long by 15” wide base with 3 each upright cut to approximately a 45-degree angle.
> 3. The three pegboards slip over three ¼” dowels mounted into the uprights to hold them in place. Now some of the details.
> 
> Figure 1 (medium with acrylic hoop guide)
> 
> 
> Figure 2 (Base with three uprights)
> 
> Figure 3 (Acrylic Hoop Guide)
> Details of construction:
> 1. Cut out the peg board sizes allowing for the base (Figure 2) ¾” uprights to rest between the holes in the pegboard. (In other words, be sure you have ½” to ¾” solid space from the last hole to the outside of each board).
> 2. Next cut out your base (Figure 2) and the uprights making sure that you have a 45-degree angle. My uprights measure approximately 3 inches high allowing them to be attached to the base board and for the extended 45-degree portion they are 1 5/8” wide. I used a lid to round the shape out at the bottom. I cut the shape out on a band saw (for the curves) and a table saw (for the straight portions). I attached the three uprights over Dowel pins after all pieces were fabricated to allow for proper spacing and support for the large, medium and small peg board templates. (I put the small down first then the medium and fit the large to the medium to hold one of the three pegboard templates on the dowel pins).
> 3. I next traced the inside of our sewing machine sewing embroidery hoop to a piece of stock Acrylic. I cut out each size (there were three) on a band saw then used a bench mounted sander to smooth out the outer portions of the acrylic to fit in the hoop.
> a. I drilled holes in the acrylic at the exact center line vertically and placed one hole 3 inches left and another 3 inches right of the vertical center (drilled on the horizontal axis). (See Figure 3).
> b. I mounted Cabinet Straight Shelf Supports Pegs (6mm x 20mm) found on Amazon (less than $3 but it took over a month to get from China) with a nylon washer to secure it to the Acrylic. These pegs allow the Acrylic Hoop Guide to be inserted into the peg board holes. (NOTE: a small bolt approximately ¾” long with a washer and nut would do the same thing as the Shelf Support Pegs).
> c. Lastly at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical axis on the Acrylic Hoop Guide I drilled a hole to mount a very small screw which barely goes through the material (in the exact center). This screw head allows the user to feel through the shirt to isolate the exact center on the hoop where the shirt is to be positioned in order to properly align the embroidery design.
> The completed project with a medium shirt template and Acrylic Hoop Guide is shown below. Good luck. It may require a bit of finagling to get the shirt to align (you have a 1-inch by 1-inch area between peg holes to work with) but it will hold the machine hoop in place while you set the shirt and outer hoop ring.
> 
> Sorry the images didn't copy over. Post back with a means to email it to you if you want a PDF of this post.


I too would love a pdf file of your design. Thank you and happy New Year


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## bholmes301

bholmes301 said:


> I too would love a pdf file of your design. Thank you and happy New Year


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