# Help with pre-printed transfers Pro World Inc



## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

I am having some trouble with pre-printed transfer, in the past I have only used transfers I have printed on my epson c88 I have a Presto Press and use best blanks transfer paper my pressure setting is set to 8 and I press my transfers at 400 degrees for 25 seconds they always come out perfect. I have just started using some pre-printed transfers from Pro World Inc they saY to press at medium pressure 385 degrees for 8 to 10 seconds I tried that and on some the transfer was not sticking so I upped the temp and time a bit I have tried all diff temps and all diff pressing times and I am still having the same problems on some of the transfers it is pressing to the shirt but then peeling off the shirt after it is pressed my thought on this one is that it is being pressed to long or to hot correct I then had some that did not stick at all and then I had some that stuck in some places but not in all - as these transfers run 2.00 to 3.00 a piece I am going through them like crazy and getting worried because I am buring money and have orders to fill and help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated also I am using 100% cotton shirts because I think the 50/50 's look to much like undershirts - thanks


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## shirtguy (Apr 21, 2006)

All transfers press differently. Make sure you are following the manufactors guidelines. Try contacting pro world for help. Your machine may have a cold spot. There may be too much moisture in the shirt or transfer. Prepress you shirts to remove excess moisture. Sometimes old transfers have to much moisture in them.


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## TheJunkyard (Jan 26, 2006)

If its taking in places and not others, make sure that your pad okay. I had to buy a new pad for my press and it worked like a charm.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

Thanks I am talked to someone at the company and they said to try pre pressing the shirt twice for 7 seconds each time since I am using a 6.1 ounce heavy cotton shirt - thanks again


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## suzieh (Feb 8, 2006)

yanaga said:


> I had some that stuck in some places but not in all - as these transfers run 2.00 to 3.00 a piece I am going through them like crazy and getting worried because I am buring money and have orders to fill and help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated also I am using 100% cotton shirts because I think the 50/50 's look to much like undershirts - thanks


 Have you asked Pro World to send out replacement transfers? Always worth asking. If same transfer...maybe was bad batch not cured properly. $2 to $3 is pretty steep to me but I've never purchased transfers or priced them. Maybe they can send extras/samples/bad runs so you can practice. That's what I requested of Dowling Graphics. They sent some botched stock transfers along with my custom Plastisol order. I'm new to all of this and didn't want to waste new t-shirts or transfers. Susan


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

Pro-World is a hub distributor for transfers, so they are not actually responsible for the print or print quality ... they just buy in bulk and resell.
They would probably respond favorable as far as a complaint goes I am sure, so I would definitely agree with Suzieh and contact them.
It sounds like you might be working with puff type transfers too ... they are tricky, and are tought to catch on thicker materials.
Make sure you follow the instructions you received with the transfers to a "Tee" and if there were no instructions, check on the Pro-World website.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

Thanks I am starting to think it is my pad because tonight I put a few pieces of cardboard under the shirt because I did not think I was getting enough pressure even though my pressure setting was at its highest and it seemed to take care of my problem - what I would like to know is how thick the pad is supposed to be - thanks for all your help!


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## TheJunkyard (Jan 26, 2006)

Its really not about the thickness of a pad. Sometimes they get little are bubbles under them and the transfer isn't able to stick properly. I bought my press used and the pad was old. Once it was replaced proworlds transfers worked perfectly. I ruined toooo many transfers before I figured it out. Good luck.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

Thanks I ordered a new pad yesterday - thanks again for all your help!


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

How long do you press your transfers from ProWorld and at what temp - thanks still trying to find the right setting


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## CGoran (Apr 25, 2005)

Pro World has MANY different types of transfers....Everything from PUFFS which I have pressed for only 5-6 seconds, all the way up to others which take 12-15 seconds...I have lots of vintage cold peel trasnfers which I have to press for 25-30 seconds. 

It is EXTREMELY important to get the correct times/temps & pressures for the particular transfer type you are trying to apply.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

Every transfer comes with it's own instructions for pressing ... they should be included as a sticker on the outside of the bag each design comes in (if you order by dozens).
If you are getting single transfers from Pro-World, and don't get instructions with each design, you can just log onto their website and find the design, and it will have application instructions for each design right on the website.
Make sure you pre-press and use some kind of material underneath for your puff transfer designs too ... we wasted a lot of transfers testing out ways to press, and found if you press puffs on stuff like shirts and thicker garments, it is OK, but if you press on thinner material, the puff won't adhere right.
We use old terrycloth bath towels under our stuff to add thickness ... it seems to help the transfer adhere to the materials better.
Also, if you press puffs, they will normally press for 6 to 8 seconds ... start at the lower end of the time range (6 seconds) first ... if you press too long, it kind of bakes the edges off the transfer to the paper, and it will rip on the outside borders of the design ... we had more issues with finding the right time than the right pressure or temperature.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

What temp range do you use 385 like Pro World recommends - thanks for allyour help and suggestions


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

They can vary between 375 and 400 it usually seems ... like I said, each design has a specified temperatue and pressure setting, and if you check the design on the Pro World website, it will have applications instructions for every design they carry listed with the image of the design on the site.


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

badbird said:


> They can vary between 375 and 400 it usually seems ... like I said, each design has a specified temperatue and pressure setting, and if you check the design on the Pro World website, it will have applications instructions for every design they carry listed with the image of the design on the site.


I have used the directions from pro world and tried everything to adjust and I have not gotten one transfer to come out right... As mentioned before, they are expensive to waste... plus the t-shirts... I finally cut up a tshirt and one of the bigger transfers to work on it and I still cant get it right! I need help! 
I am using jerzees 50/50 heavyweight shirts and puff transfers. I have prewashed the shirts and I prepressed them. I followed the directions exactly and the best I have done was to get about 1/4 of the transfer to stick... I am running out of options. Is there someone I can hire to come over and help me? Is there anything else I can try?


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

Sidney022 said:


> I have used the directions from pro world and tried everything to adjust and I have not gotten one transfer to come out right... As mentioned before, they are expensive to waste... plus the t-shirts... I finally cut up a tshirt and one of the bigger transfers to work on it and I still cant get it right! I need help!
> I am using jerzees 50/50 heavyweight shirts and puff transfers. I have prewashed the shirts and I prepressed them. I followed the directions exactly and the best I have done was to get about 1/4 of the transfer to stick... I am running out of options. Is there someone I can hire to come over and help me? Is there anything else I can try?


When we first started with the puff designs, we had terrible troubles getting everything right as well.
I honestly have to say you are going to have to keep trying different settings.
Make sure you are using *heavy pressure*.
The biggest variable we had was pressing times which can vary from 6 to 8 seconds ... most of our stuff seemed to hit at *7 to 8 seconds* here for tees.
ProWorld is a distribution hub for transfers, so you may want to actually get in touch with the actual manufacturer of the transfers too ... the maker will be somewhere on the bottom edge of the design on the transfer.
AirWaves seems to be a big supplier of puff print designs, and they are tough to hit, but with practice, you will get them.
We actually buy directly from the maker, which moves the prices for the transfers down from 2 to 3 bucks each to below $1.50 each as well ... so you may want to look at avoiding ProWorld since they simply buy the transfers and mark them up ... down the road, you will need to buy right from the makers like AirWaves, Dowling Graphics, ArtBrands, and WildSide directly ... it will save you lots of money.
You may want to actually contact the makers of the transfers to see what you may need to do to get them pressed right or for some pointers ... most will help you our with no problems, and it is best to go to the direct source of the designs ... the companies that print them will know the most.
I wish I could help you out with a visit, but I cant get away from our store right now ... we actually are only about 3 hours away from you here in Johnstown, PA.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

What color shirts are you using? How long are you pre-pressing? Are you hot peeling asap lower corner to upper corner? Is your pressure med. to lite? Can you post a pic of the transfer and a printing result?


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## treadhead (Jul 26, 2006)

Sidney022 said:


> I have used the directions from pro world and tried everything to adjust and I have not gotten one transfer to come out right... As mentioned before, they are expensive to waste... plus the t-shirts... I finally cut up a tshirt and one of the bigger transfers to work on it and I still cant get it right! I need help!
> I am using jerzees 50/50 heavyweight shirts and puff transfers. I have prewashed the shirts and I prepressed them. I followed the directions exactly and the best I have done was to get about 1/4 of the transfer to stick... I am running out of options. Is there someone I can hire to come over and help me? Is there anything else I can try?


Sidney...are you peeling the PUFF transfer quickly and immediately after you raise the press? If you let it cool for even a couple seconds it usually will not work right.

John


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

badbird said:


> When we first started with the puff designs, we had terrible troubles getting everything right as well.
> I honestly have to say you are going to have to keep trying different settings.
> Make sure you are using *heavy pressure*.
> The biggest variable we had was pressing times which can vary from 6 to 8 seconds ... most of our stuff seemed to hit at *7 to 8 seconds* here for tees.
> ...


Oh Eric, Thank you so much for the great info! I will look into that!


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> What color shirts are you using? How long are you pre-pressing? Are you hot peeling asap lower corner to upper corner? Is your pressure med. to lite? Can you post a pic of the transfer and a printing result?


I am at work right now, I will post pictures asap! 
I tried white light weight shirts and black heavier weight shirts. I tried light, med, and heavy pressure. I prepressed 7 secs up to 20 secs. I heated them from 5 secs - 20 secs (which just burned the transfers). 
My first try, exactly like the directions stated, got nothing at all. I pressed a little longer, and got a very faded design with some strings of the white part of the design coming off. I adjusted the pressure, and the heat and the times for 2 days... the more I tried, the worse it got, I finally gave up and came here!


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

treadhead said:


> Sidney...are you peeling the PUFF transfer quickly and immediately after you raise the press? If you let it cool for even a couple seconds it usually will not work right.
> 
> John


You know, I am not sure how quick I was. I tried to do it as soon as I opened it. I will try this and let you know.


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## yanaga (Feb 10, 2006)

I know I had the same trouble and after many crummy shirts and wasting alot of money I found the following to work for me - I used a large mousepad on top of the pad already on the heat press - i had called pro-world and they suggested i try that or put a sweatshirt down on top of the pad on the press - i bought a gaming mousepad at staples for $10 and it worked great - because of the pad the pressure setting is much lower i always used pressure setting 4 1/2 i also only pressed puffs for 6 seconds and then immediately peeled it - almost so quick that you are going to burn your hand because the paper is so hot if you even let it cool for a second part of the transfer will tear off the shirt and stay on the paper - the other trick i learned was that i had a fan in the room i was pressing in since the press got so hot if right after i peeled the puff transfer and placed the shirt in front of the fan the puff puffed up even more - found this out by mistake but it makes them come out really nice email me at [email protected] if you need some more help i am in nj


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## indy99 (Apr 13, 2007)

Have you checked the actual temperature of the heat platten (heating surface) against the temperature controller using an infrared thermometer? I suspect that the press is set at say 385 degrees but the platten is at 300 degrees.

You can get a thermometer from Harbor Freight tools for under 40.00. Just aim the laser beam at the heating surface and take a reading. If you have a large discrepancy more then 10% you need to look at the press. Possible controller problem or the heating element may be going bad.


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## Ranger West (Nov 6, 2007)

You need to get some temp. strips and put on you pad to see if your press isgetting to the right temp. We bought a lazer thermometer and it works great for finding out the temp. Only 3 problems with transfers
1. Temp
2. time
3 pressure
This sounds like pressure problems to me.


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## 2STRONG (Oct 17, 2007)

Im having the same problem right now im lost i have a new mighty max 16x20 and been trying pro worlds transfers it seems that not everything comes of i followed the spesific directions from the website heres a look at what im talking about well i cant load the pics will try later. any suggestions on what im doing wrong im thinking pressure but not sure will try some more tomorrow with more pressure.


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

Get an IR thermometer. Harbor freight has them for about 29-35 bucks.
mine has worked well for months now. I found my Hix 400 was 50 degrees shy of target temp.


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## 2STRONG (Oct 17, 2007)

i will try to get a thermometer but should i need one with a brand new press i had press for i week..


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## Ranger West (Nov 6, 2007)

I've had preeses out of the box that are off by anywhere from 20 to 50 degrees. This is not unusal. I found the insta presses were better at holding the correct temp. Could be the clamshell presses have to heat up so much to compensate for the exposure to the air and the cooling effect. Harbor freight is where we got our Ir thermometer. If your press is off by 20 degrees your transfers will not go down properly. The time will have to be extended. Have you tried uping your temp. Take one transfer and a junk shirt and cut the transfer into 4 pieces. Try one peice going up 10 degrees at a time to see when it works properly.


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## queenVee (Aug 16, 2007)

yanaga said:


> Thanks I am starting to think it is my pad because tonight I put a few pieces of cardboard under the shirt because I did not think I was getting enough pressure even though my pressure setting was at its highest and it seemed to take care of my problem - what I would like to know is how thick the pad is supposed to be - thanks for all your help!


what kinda of heat press do you got?


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

ok, I am getting a little better at it. How can I put pictures in here?


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

I have a HIX HT400D heat press and I have not checked the temp.


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

badbird said:


> Every transfer comes with it's own instructions for pressing ... they should be included as a sticker on the outside of the bag each design comes in (if you order by dozens).
> If you are getting single transfers from Pro-World, and don't get instructions with each design, you can just log onto their website and find the design, and it will have application instructions for each design right on the website.
> Make sure you pre-press and use some kind of material underneath for your puff transfer designs too ... we wasted a lot of transfers testing out ways to press, and found if you press puffs on stuff like shirts and thicker garments, it is OK, but if you press on thinner material, the puff won't adhere right.
> We use old terrycloth bath towels under our stuff to add thickness ... it seems to help the transfer adhere to the materials better.
> Also, if you press puffs, they will normally press for 6 to 8 seconds ... start at the lower end of the time range (6 seconds) first ... if you press too long, it kind of bakes the edges off the transfer to the paper, and it will rip on the outside borders of the design ... we had more issues with finding the right time than the right pressure or temperature.


 
I still have not gotten any transfers to come out perfect! I have wasted a whole lot of money now! I am still not sure how to load pictures here! I started trying again last night. I have no idea what to do!!

Does anyone live in the Cleveland area? I am willing to pay someone to come teach me! Or see what I am doing wrong!?


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

Figured it out...
Here are some of the disasters I have made...


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## Ranger West (Nov 6, 2007)

does your pad come off easily or is glued down hard. I had a customer that had a pad come off easy and we put a piece of Peg board under the pad. This gave him enough pressure to get it up to where it should be. If this works get some barge cement (glue) from a shoe store to glue the board down, It will come off with easy but will stay if you need it to. I have found that most of the people who print the transfers are always willing to help. You could try taking a transfer to your local heatpress shop and see if they know how to put it down. Take a shirt with you as the most likely have an automatic press that is set for the time and temp and the right pressure. If it works there you know that it is time, pressure or temp. If it work ask the person what settings he used. We have done that for some people knowing that they were doing the same thing we are. There is always room for one more, besides they do end up buying some of the transfers that we print. Harbor freight now has the IR thermometers on sale for 9.95 and the work great. Good luck


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

Sidney022 said:


> Figured it out...
> Here are some of the disasters I have made...


So what was the problem?


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

The problem is the pressure and the transfers, for those X-it transfers your using you want high pressure (9 on my hottronik) press at 385 for 15 sec. then *wait for 10 seconds then peel*.
For some reason the X-it stuff needs a "warm" peel. And the more red ink in the design the trickier it is.
I know I wasted countless garments and transfers trying to get them to work, and I still have trouble.
Good Luck.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Try 400-410 for 10-15 secomds med. pressure and rub quickly the transfer after press with a rag and then peel corner to corner.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Try 400-410 for 10-15 secomds med. pressure and rub quickly the transfer after press with a rag and then peel corner to corner.


I will try that today too, thanks Moto.


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

pshawny said:


> So what was the problem?


 
The problem is I can't ever get a full press. Even when I get really close, I pretty much never get the red to work. I have tried every temp/pressure combination I can think of. I have added a pad, sweatshirt, towel. My machine is new. I dont know what else to try. I took them over to a friend that does this and she has a very old machine and did them at 375* for 30 secs and she did a ot better than me. I tried the same settings on my machine and it didnt work.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

I did not get a chance to try them. I will be pressing some today. They are really difficult. I would have given up if I didn't need them to sell. I called Pro World and they told me about the warm peel, and they gave me credit for some losses.
It's with out a doubt a problem with the red ink. The other colors peel perfect.
Have you tried my method yet?


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## Sidney022 (Jul 12, 2007)

Im warming up the machine as I type!


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## pshawny (Feb 27, 2008)

I had trouble with red inks from Pro World also. I increased the temp to 400, pressed, opened & immediately started rubbing the design with a piece of an old shirt for about 10 seconds, then peeled. It worked like a charm.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

That sounds pretty much the same technique that worked for me.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

It really is a dwell issue and not a pressure thing. More than that its a red ink problem. My suggestion should work but just increase dwell times by 5 seconds and check results. I would take a problem transfer and cut it up into 4-6 test transfers all including the red ink. Just keep increasing the dwell. I would get that pressure back to med or even try lite pressure.


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

Gaaah these proworld transfers is really driving people mad... now that includes me too now !!! how on earth can they produce s*** transfers like this ??? 

Ok, good manners... being a newbie and all i went into pressing, right away problems... 385 degrees at medium didnt work, uped and downed pressure... uped and downed temp and dwell (time) still no quality to speak of ?!

If at one point paper would come of like butter so did the print itself... it doesn't stick to the fabric ??? where's the bond that should supposed to be there ??? in my cases its always possible to grab one end of the actual print and then rip it of clean smooth of the fabric... how do you guys do and how on earth do you dare to sell these ??? i wouldn't dare til its fully bonded and sticked to fabric

This means all colors... red x-it is far from being close as it either sticks to the paper rather then onto fabric or if off the paper it wont stick !

At low temp (below 385) and light pressure and little time it wont stick at all

At 385, medium pressure and 8 sec time it mostly leave the paper but wont bond to fabric (various tees, shirts etc tested)

At high temp (above 385) and high pressure and long time it sometimes leave the paper if not melted into paper (red is hopeless) it stays on fabric but once cool it can be peeled off 

What am i doing wrong ??? it doesn't help to mix any of the above settings either, new machine, tried all above tricks and still it leaves no quality ?! any ideas ??? feels like theres little to no glue on all preprinted transfers, am i wrong ? well any ideas are welcome really... for you who does succed in every pressing and sell these are they perfectly bonded to your fabric and wont come loose ??? pls help a lost fellow Swedish guy =) thanx... any input will do


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

swe_seifer said:


> Gaaah these proworld transfers is really driving people mad... now that includes me too now !!! how on earth can they produce s*** transfers like this ???
> 
> Ok, good manners... being a newbie and all i went into pressing, right away problems... 385 degrees at medium didnt work, uped and downed pressure... uped and downed temp and dwell (time) still no quality to speak of ?!
> 
> ...


Try 400 F for 15 seconds and rub the transfer then peel hot corner to corner in a steady motion.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

I agree, 390 degrees, high pressure (9 on my press), then rub with a cloth or chalk board eraser for 10 seconds. Works like a charm. And I had a lot of trouble with red before trying this method.


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanks alot David and auggieboy, your very kind... i will try this method out fully and report back my results later when i start working on it 

But even with this method does the transfer bond completley to the fabric and no peeling off etc. i mean it has to withstand a washtreatment after all ??? what is your results after this method and wash for example ??? 

Wear and tear ??? is the quality as good after months off wear and several washes... any of you tried that out ???

Really appriciate your inputs... thanks alot fellow pressers =)

/Martin


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I use transfers from Pro-World all the time. They dont make the transfers just sell what the majors produce. Red ink has been an issue with a couple transfer makers. There is a certain transfer we use that in one batch its fine and in the next thr red seems overcured for a plastisol transfer print.

There have been several threads off and on about this problem.

If at 400 F and 15-17 seconds you dont get results notify PW and get new product.

It is usually the X-IT transfers with the red ink problem.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I use transfers from Pro-World all the time. They dont make the transfers just sell what the majors produce. Red ink has been an issue with a couple transfer makers. There is a certain transfer we use that in one batch its fine and in the next thr red seems overcured for a plastisol transfer print.
> 
> There have been several threads off and on about this problem.
> 
> ...


Motoskin is EXACTLY right.
ProWorld DOES NOT PRINT TRANSFERS ... they buy they in bulk from ArtBrands, X-It, WildSide, AirWaves, Dowling Graphics, Barber & Co., and a few other manufacturers, break down the transfers, and sell them as singles.
Each transfer should have a manufacturer logo in the corner or on the edge soemwhere ... that is who makes them.
You can always try to get assistance from these manufacturers directly too, and these guys who make them are going to give the BEST advice for transfers.
I have 1600+ different designs in stock here at my shop from 6 makers, and we make items with these transfers all the time.
Puffs seem to work at 365 to 375 at 6 to 8 seconds here, and stuff like X-It makes (we had trouble with the red from them too) seems to run at 390 for about 12 seconds.
But there are a whole new series of transfer formats being brought out at this time ... high defs from ArtBrands need lower temps at 355-365 for only 8 seconds or the edges will look burned, and if you press some brands of the puffs too long, it will actually melt the transfer BACK onto the paper.
I can tell you we trashed alot of stuff learning what to do here ... and every time we get new designs we actually have to re-learn what to do, but that is part of the business, and now we may lose one or two pieces once in a while, but it is not a huge issue as we have learned what issues happen, how they look, and how to fix it.
I buy direct from the makers like I mentioned above, and we do use ProWorld when we just need a few pieces of one certain design, but it is not too often.
ProWorld stands behind their stuff, but remember they DON'T MAKE THE TRANSFERS ... they use the manufacturers recommended instructions.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

swe_seifer said:


> Thanks alot David and auggieboy, your very kind... i will try this method out fully and report back my results later when i start working on it
> 
> But even with this method does the transfer bond completley to the fabric and no peeling off etc. i mean it has to withstand a washtreatment after all ??? what is your results after this method and wash for example ???
> 
> ...


You should be looking at about 1 to 3+ years wear depending on how the item is washed.
If you get someone bleaching the crap out of a white tee with a transfer on it, you are going to get less life ... if it is washed inside out and taken care of, it can go a long time.
Some of the companies are using screen printing type inks to make transfers with, so the wearability is getting better.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

I have been selling the X-it transfers for 2 years and own some of the garments myself. They wash great and if pressed properly last a long time. I have never had one crack or fade in 2 years.
I agree you have to accept the fact that your going to have some causalities. Save your bad t-shirts to use for tests, if it's a new design cut one up and test with it. I found that pressure has a lot to do with your results.
When I started I had a used press that had hot spots and I was never able to get a feel for the pressure. In February I bought a new press with a pressure read out and digital temp. My life has been better ever since. and I'm wasting a lot less transfers.


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanx for your inputs guys and gals, worth alot to a newbie  

I've tried alot now and will post results now

Temp had to go up to 410, tried various temp but it seems the best for now (thanx you all for 400 input) 

Pressure at Medium to High, seem to press good now in fabric not just laying on top

Time 15 sec seems to be a good time, though increasing time does little to no change

So far so good, BUT yes still buts and not perfect results... rub after press is good to make big transfers/whole picture stick just fine and stays on good... but i still have trouble with edges ?! especially those transfers that have fading edges where dots in random patterns fade out... (glowing effects etc) these small dots doesnt come off paper and no matter how i try these dont stick to fabric ??? any ideas there fellowers ???

Another thing i wasted alot of transfers on was to follow supplier instructions... peel right away while hot !!! yes i ripped that paper off directly after press in steady motion just to ruin every transfer... still sticky and hot it wouldn't bond/cure to the fabric !!! trick seems to be to rub and let transfer COOL down alot (finger warm ?) before rip paper... why didn't they said that from the beginning ???

Leaves me wondering how long do you guys wait after you lift press until you actually rip the paper off ??? 

Red ink (x-it) seems to be sensitive because of this... i had a big transfer with lots of green/blue/red pressed according to times above and waited for 20 sec approx after press while rubbing with spare cloth... rip the paper steady and all green/blue stuck fine but all red went up with paper  should i wait longer to let it cool down futher ??? still have to try that... 

Final question, when you rip you papers do they come off easily (like butter) or do they come off hard (like tejped or glued) ??? interesting to know... 

Thanx for now, be back soon... try some more


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## Silverwind1953 (Jun 3, 2008)

Help - I too am having troubles with transfers from Pro World - I have a new press - I am setting temp and pressure and time as instructed, but everytime I press a transfer - it looks great til I wash the shirt and them they start to peel at the edges - I even pressed the shirt like they said before hand and when washing - I wash in cold water with the shirt inside out. Any responce of ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Newbie


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I have never ever had a plastisol transfer peel from washing.

It would be great if folks would post a pic of the problem images. 
You could post a pic of the transfer and what you did to get a good result. If you never got a good result you can just state this transfer doesnt work.

It would be best for seasoned plastisol transfer folks to do this and not someones first print experience.


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

Why would companies produce printed transfers that do not work ??? i mean you shouldn't even have to struggle with them... companies must have tested their products before sending them out or am i wrong ??? 

Press, peel, done... isn't it how its suppose to work ???

Anyway when peeling paper, does it comes off like butter for you or do you have to use force/struggle to get the paper off ??? anyone ???


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

If I use a 10 to 12 second dwell time the transfer peels like butter, wait a few more seconds then it comes off hard, wait a few more seconds then the transfer does not come off of the backer and the end product is toast.
If you contact pro-world via phone they will do a test press and give you the proper directions, and in most cases credit you for the lost transfers. Pro-World is an awesome company to deal with in my opinion.
Maybe you guys can tell us the transfers giving you trouble, or as Moto said post some pictures.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

badbird said:


> Motoskin is EXACTLY right.
> ProWorld DOES NOT PRINT TRANSFERS ... they buy they in bulk from ArtBrands, X-It, WildSide, AirWaves, Dowling Graphics, Barber & Co., and a few other manufacturers, break down the transfers, and sell them as singles.
> Each transfer should have a manufacturer logo in the corner or on the edge soemwhere ... that is who makes them.
> You can always try to get assistance from these manufacturers directly too, and these guys who make them are going to give the BEST advice for transfers.
> ...


Hey Badbird,
The new high def transfers your talking about, are they the new ones with dinosaur heads and flowers and stuff? I got some the other day and had some trouble with them, any idea what type of pressure to use with these? are they peel hot or peel warm?
These are some relativly expensive transfers and I don't want to wast any more.
Thanks


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

auggieboy said:


> Hey Badbird,
> The new high def transfers your talking about, are they the new ones with dinosaur heads and flowers and stuff? I got some the other day and had some trouble with them, any idea what type of pressure to use with these? are they peel hot or peel warm?
> These are some relativly expensive transfers and I don't want to wast any more.
> Thanks


The high-defs are REALLY picky on heat ... we are using medium pressure at about 360 to 365 degrees but only press them for about 8 seconds.
If you press them and they look grainy on the edges or on the whole transfer, lower the temp.
Hot peel is fine right after you press, and I am heavy handed with my presses and use a little higher pressure here.
When they hit, they are awesome, but it is tricky getting them to hit.
Once you get the rythym, you will be good ... just watch the temperatures and no more then 8 seconds.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

I know this will sound a little corny or weird, but one thing you folks may want to try is peeling in the direction the transfer is printed.
Most transfer companies print top to bottom, so when you are done pressing try peeling from the top center of the transfer.
I know this results in many burned knuckles, but it may be a little help.
For some reason if you peel with the "grain" of the transfer it takes some of the issues out.
On my X-it stuff ... I press at 400 degrees for about 12 seconds and peel hot ... the reds look fine, but I use "gorilla arm" pressure here on most all my stuff except puffs.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

badbird said:


> The high-defs are REALLY picky on heat ... we are using medium pressure at about 360 to 365 degrees but only press them for about 8 seconds.
> If you press them and they look grainy on the edges or on the whole transfer, lower the temp.
> Hot peel is fine right after you press, and I am heavy handed with my presses and use a little higher pressure here.
> When they hit, they are awesome, but it is tricky getting them to hit.
> Once you get the rythym, you will be good ... just watch the temperatures and no more then 8 seconds.


Thanks Badbird. How are these transfers going over? do your customers seem to like them? I assume your charging more for them then a standard t-shirt. Pro-World sold out fast so I was not able to get any of the cooler designs. Are you buying them direct?
Thanks.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

If you simply look at the transfer and notice how much ink you are dealing with you can begin to catagorize your prints into variables that work.

I always use med. pressure but on certain light ink transfers my pressure goes way lighter.
Watch the videos and notice nobody is stuggling to close the press for extreme pressure.

Temp and dwell have always been more a factor than pressure with our use of stock plastisol transfers.

Yeah...I know there is gonna be some grumbling about heavy this and that...its just what has always worked for us.

The transfer below needs very little pressure or it doesnt work. It has no real ink feel on the paper and resembles and inkjet print before press.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

Ok so I tried the new Artbrands 3DT transfers today. I did as Badbird suggested and started out @ 365 med pressure for 8 sec. not so great results the tranz puffed up but the ink looked cracked and burned, next dropped temp to 355 and time to 6 sec, a little better but still cracked, next I tried 345 for 5 seconds, almost perfect but still a little cracked.
I checked out Artbrand website, same instructions as Badbird, 365 to 375 med/hard pressure 8 seconds.
The big problem is I have no idea what these things are supposed to look like pressed. Are they supposed to be slightly crackled? Anyone else using this with any success?
I want them to work I think they would sell well on sweatshirts in the fall.


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## kpk703 (Mar 17, 2008)

For what it's worth, my experiences have varied greatly from one supplier to another. Temperature seems to be very important and the accuracy of your unit needs to be considered and verified. Some get by with "play with it a bit" but these transfers tend to get very expensive to experiment with. There's some play room in temperature, but not much and it's not uncommon for presses to be off by 40 degrees. Unless your press gives you a pressure number, this is going to be learning experience. There are a number of posts on the forum about roughly determining a medium pressure. I tend to follow the suppliers recommendation on dwell time...though I've made minor adjustments. And, most importantly, when I first order from a new supplier, I ALWAYS order some extras so I can run some tests without consuming what I need to complete an order. Best of luck.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Try 400 and lite pres. for ten seconds!


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Try 400 and lite pres. for ten seconds!


Is this in reference to the ArtBrands 3DT? Have you tried it? I think those high temps would (400) would toast them. But I could be wrong if it's more dependent on pressure. My press has a digital pressure readout and I was pressing them at 5.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

My press is a manual and the pressure is simply silly.

Follow the directions and print away....if they dont work...send them back.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

auggieboy said:


> Thanks Badbird. How are these transfers going over? do your customers seem to like them? I assume your charging more for them then a standard t-shirt. Pro-World sold out fast so I was not able to get any of the cooler designs. Are you buying them direct?
> Thanks.


I am definitely buying them direct ... ProWorld charges over 2 times what they cost directly from ArtBrands.
I do more dog breeds than anything else here, and they sell pretty well.
On the temperatures and pressures, they are all going to vary from machine to machine ... there are alot of factors like if you use a silicone sheet under the transfers or not, the accuracy of the temperatures on the press, they thickness and types of materials you are pressing on, and such.
I would not recommend 400 degrees at 10 seconds on the Hi-Def transfers ... I have fried enough prints on my presses here by trying to go up in temperature here to testify to what ArtBrands says about needing lower temperatures on these types of transfers.
They do seem to be a bit tricky ... I can see the transfers getting grainy from extra heat if I press a whole lot in a row, so I am starting to think the build-up of heat on the pad is possibly affecting the overall temperature while pressing.
What do you mean by crackling on the prints ?
Also, what design were you printing out of the ArtBrands catalog ?
If you have an image or close up photo of the print after pressing, post it and I'll see if I can figure out what it is doing here or e-mail me at [email protected].
I print out about 200 pieces of merchandise with stock, pre-printed transfers on them a week, so I run through alot of transfers here, and I am willing to help out with what I can, and let the experience of my losses save someone a few bucks.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

badbird said:


> I am definitely buying them direct ... ProWorld charges over 2 times what they cost directly from ArtBrands.
> I do more dog breeds than anything else here, and they sell pretty well.
> On the temperatures and pressures, they are all going to vary from machine to machine ... there are alot of factors like if you use a silicone sheet under the transfers or not, the accuracy of the temperatures on the press, they thickness and types of materials you are pressing on, and such.
> I would not recommend 400 degrees at 10 seconds on the Hi-Def transfers ... I have fried enough prints on my presses here by trying to go up in temperature here to testify to what ArtBrands says about needing lower temperatures on these types of transfers.
> ...


Thanks man, I will definitely try to post a picture. I just signed on with artbrand direct and your right about the pricing thanks.
I was totally thinking the same thing that heat build up on the pad and maybe even the heat from the pre-press is effecting these transfers. I tried the statue of liberty, the dinosaur head and a butterfly, after 3 tries only the butterfly turned out OK. I have not been using a Teflon cover sheet but I'm thinking I should try it but I'm afraid it might hurt the heat retention problem.
I'll keep you posted when I get some new ones.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

Ok here are some Pics of my results, The Statue of Liberty was pressed as directed 365 med pressure 8 seconds this photo is of the shirt washed once cold water inside out dried on low, the dinosaur head was pressed at 355 med pressure 6 seconds, washed once cold water inside out dried on low.
As you can see the Liberty shirt washed well but the graphic looks grainy, the dino shirt washed horrible and is peeling badly. any one have a clue.


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## DTFuqua (Jun 26, 2008)

Wow. This all looks bad for the industry. Are there any that are good and act as they are supposed to? I think I would rather have dependable quality and ease of use than cutting edge graphics. I haven't started yet (waiting on heat press) but I'm on a real tight budget and can't afford to waste a lot of money on trial and error.


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## pats242 (Dec 6, 2007)

I was on my way to another thread and just read five pages of posts.

I have to say that in my case, ignorance was bliss. I had a heat press I bought used, a Hix (does 800 sound right for a model number?), and I pretty much pressed every transfer I got from Pro World (a lot of Air Waves and Impulsewear) at 13 seconds with the press set at 375 degrees. When I finally got around to measuring the temp with an infared gun, there were hotspots all over the place and my maximum temperature at any point on the iron was 330 degrees.

I didn't do any of this testing until I decided to replace the aging Hix (which had melted an extension cord). I bought an iDek, a decision that I spend a lot of time second-guessing.

Since then, I haven't been able to get a puff print to stay on a shirt. I have tried every time and temperature combination you can imagine, and then when I thought I finally had it figured out, a customer sent back a shirt where the design had mostly peeled off after one gentle washing.

When I hooked the Hix back up, the replacement shirt worked great.

From my experience I would say that the major variable has got to be pressure. The Hix was an automatic, and I was applying all of my transfers at 40 psi.

So now when I have to try a puff with the iDek, I crank the pressure up as high as I can ("gorilla arms" is what someone here called it), and still get an iffy result. Other transfers generally do better, but it turns out most of mine are puff. (I will say they didn't puff very well on the Hix, but they did stay on the shirts.)

I am firmly convinced now that if you want to do a lot of pre-printed plastisol transfers, you should make the investment in an automatic press.

That's probably not helpful advice, but that's what I'm going to do the next time I have to buy a heat press.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

pats242 said:


> I was on my way to another thread and just read five pages of posts.
> 
> I have to say that in my case, ignorance was bliss. I had a heat press I bought used, a Hix (does 800 sound right for a model number?), and I pretty much pressed every transfer I got from Pro World (a lot of Air Waves and Impulsewear) at 13 seconds with the press set at 375 degrees. When I finally got around to measuring the temp with an infared gun, there were hotspots all over the place and my maximum temperature at any point on the iron was 330 degrees.
> 
> ...


So what heat and time are you recommending? I have a brand new Phoenix™ Phire and I'm using a pressure of 6, but I will try it beyond 9 (maximum setting) or gorilla arms.
I know these transfers are pretty new, I have not called artbrands yet but I will try to call them tomorrow for help.


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## pats242 (Dec 6, 2007)

I'm not much good with cut-and-paste, sorry.

You wanted to know what time and temp I recommend. 


We aren't pressing as many transfers now. The screen printing end of things has been insanely busy, so I've just kind of let the retail end go lately. We cringe when someone requests one of our puff transfers. I believe we're pressing them for 6-8 seconds at 385 on the iDek, which runs pretty true to temp.

I try following the instructions on the packages more, but often go for 13 seconds at 380 or so. 

There are no indicators whatsoever to tell you what pressure you might be at with an iDek, which is one of its flaws, but more always seems to be better with plastisol transfers. At least in our shop.


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

auggieboy said:


> Thanks man, I will definitely try to post a picture. I just signed on with artbrand direct and your right about the pricing thanks.
> I was totally thinking the same thing that heat build up on the pad and maybe even the heat from the pre-press is effecting these transfers. I tried the statue of liberty, the dinosaur head and a butterfly, after 3 tries only the butterfly turned out OK. I have not been using a Teflon cover sheet but I'm thinking I should try it but I'm afraid it might hurt the heat retention problem.
> I'll keep you posted when I get some new ones.


Auggie ... try to do the item without pre-pressing once.
The teflon will hold more heat in too.


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

badbird said:


> Auggie ... try to do the item without pre-pressing once.
> The teflon will hold more heat in too.


Thanks, I'll try it. I just washed the one of the three that looked like it pressed well, it was a butterfly. It totally fell apart in the wash and dry.
Still have not had a chance to call artbrands though. I'll keep you posted


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

auggieboy said:


> Thanks, I'll try it. I just washed the one of the three that looked like it pressed well, it was a butterfly. It totally fell apart in the wash and dry.
> Still have not had a chance to call artbrands though. I'll keep you posted


Are the high defs. cold water wash low dry only?


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Are the high defs. cold water wash low dry only?


I never read any specific directions for them. I washed them that way because I figured it would be milder.


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## LLevine (Feb 7, 2007)

Hello, 

I am the President of Artbrands . Artbrands prides itself on putting out high quality prints graphics and artwork. If you have any printing problems whatsoever please call us or looks us up on the web. We will replace anything that is a problem for you at no charge. We stand behind our products. Also I have personally printed all new products prior to them being released. Other than manufacturer errors ( dont' believe anybody who says that there arn't ) the most problems that we see are the varying types, temps, pressures etc. that machines have. yes generally it is better to have an automatic . We calibrate our transfers to manual machines because they are the least forgiving. 

The 3d transfers have been wash tested with excellent results. That dosnt' mean that occasionally bad ones don't slip out. We recommend cold water wash on these. Also printing them shoudl be easy 375 for 8 to ten seconds forty psi . It sounds like the ones printed were toasted with too much heat. 

Thanks for the chance to let us ship you all products. 

Larry Levine


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## auggieboy (Mar 22, 2008)

LLevine said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am the President of Artbrands . Artbrands prides itself on putting out high quality prints graphics and artwork. If you have any printing problems whatsoever please call us or looks us up on the web. We will replace anything that is a problem for you at no charge. We stand behind our products. Also I have personally printed all new products prior to them being released. Other than manufacturer errors ( dont' believe anybody who says that there arn't ) the most problems that we see are the varying types, temps, pressures etc. that machines have. yes generally it is better to have an automatic . We calibrate our transfers to manual machines because they are the least forgiving.
> 
> ...


Larry,
Thanks so much for the reply, I was planning to give your company a call but I have been a little busy, I have used many of your products in the past with great results. I had no intention of knocking the product.
Can you tell me what pressure 40psi is equal in terms of low, med. or high?
Also the digital read out on my machine had me pressing at 345 degrees and I was still burning them?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Len


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

I go nuts =(

These transfers just dont seem to work, estimated 1 transfer out of 50 is just near perfect rest either sticks to paper, doesn't bond with fabric or just comes loose afterwards 

Im so low, tried various settings and various fabrics... preassure from zero to full, temp from 375-MAX 

Any combination with time, preassure and heat just dont seem to get the work done... do i need to change my machine ??? cheap one it is but seem solid enough...

Nearest result i got somewhat close is using silly preassure and 400-410 temp and 20sec, just like motoskin recommended but these transfer still seem to bond better back in paper when peeled hot =((( why dont it bond to fabric ??? 

Fabric tried is tee's, sweats and shirts... 100% cotton, transfers is Artbrand, Wildlife, X-it etc all carry same results so im suspecting machine... pls tell me otherwise as my budget is really draining on these lost ones =(


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## bern (Feb 14, 2007)

swe_seifer said:


> I go nuts =(
> 
> These transfers just dont seem to work, estimated 1 transfer out of 50 is just near perfect rest either sticks to paper, doesn't bond with fabric or just comes loose afterwards
> 
> ...


Don`t give up , I do not think it is the transfers as I have used Artbrand and Proworld transfers and the success rate is very high . Just to tell you what happened to me I bought a heat press off Ebay and tried to press many things and a lot did not turn out . Transfers I printed would stick to the paper and I wasted so many mouse mats and T-shirts trying to get it to work , In the end I was pressing sublimation mouse mats for three minutes . I would have to turn the mouse mat 180 degrees after 90 seconds and then press for another 90 seconds . Then I bought a second hand 16x20 Insta swingaway heat press and everything changed . Mouse mats I could press in 45 seconds and the plastisol transfers now come out with excellent results it really has been the best purchase I could have made . My initial Ebay press I suspect was at a very different temp to what I had dialed in and I also think it had a " cold spot " as the sublimation image would not transfer properly in one part of the mat . 

What I would do if it is possible for you is to find a Heat Press retailer who would demonstrate a well made press for you . Then you would be able to see that it really can be a lot easier for you to do this with results you will be really happy with . Keep us posted on how it all turns out for and good luck


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

swe_seifer said:


> I go nuts =(


Have you measured the temperature of your press?


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## badbird (Apr 25, 2006)

I can guarantee that using 400-410 degrees with heavy pressure for 20 seconds is not the way to go unless your press is off about 60 degrees in temperature.
You can get away with using temps like that for Springhill and X-it, and some Wildside stuff, but not for all brands.
What brand of press are you using and where did you get it from ?
You DEFINITELY need to test the heat on the platen in several different places at the very least.
That is the best place to start because no matter who makes the transfers, there is no way for them to control the equipment that is used to apply them, so, odds-on, there is an issue with the press.


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## swe_seifer (Jul 2, 2008)

I bought this one:
COMBINATION HEAT TRANSFER / SUBLIMATION PRESS on eBay, also, Heat Presses, Printing Graphic Arts, Business, Office Industrial (end time 07-Aug-08 01:00:00 BST)

Haven't measured the temp on the plate and compared but as you say i cannot believe its 60 degrees way off ?! should somewhat be within limits or ?! once i get a measuring tool i will check of course

Thank you Bern for your support, needed that... a tap on the back makes you go on and dont give up 

Still have to find a supplier who can demonstrate machines for me... living in Sweden and not many carry those, those who do charge like crazy for their machines so i wonder well out of my budget anyway 

Anyone else use this machine with success or heard nightmare stories about it ??? 

Is a clampstyle machine better than a swing-away i wonder ???

Anyone bought any good machines off Ebay that just works flawlessly ??? what brand did you get then ???

Thanx ya all for your inputs, makes me wanna go on


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

Well, I bought my first one off eBay bit it's a hix 400 and I still love it.

When searching for presses years ago I shyed away from all the single pivot head design. I wasn't convinced that even pressure could be distributed effectively from a single pivot head.

Another thing I learned is NEVER trust the temp guage - new or not I live by the old construction rule, measure twice cut once. It holds true in heat pressing also.

Get yourself an IR gun and check your temp.
I cant help you with the idea that you are actually getting even pressure from your press as I am not aware of pressure strips or any other calibration method for checking pressure distribution. Maybe try this.
buy 4 transfers you are having problems with. press on right side up. press the next turned 90 degrees the next upside down and so on... compare your results. if your having pressure issues this may tell you a tale.

good luck

Bill


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## patchmaster (May 10, 2007)

oh, I forgot...
I make most of my own transfers and use papers that are sensitive to as little as 5 degrees, so 60 degrees off can make a huge difference much less 5 degrees.
temperature is extremely important. Never assume that a new press is accurate until you check it yourself.


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