# Outline Left on Shirt From Transfer Sheet



## No Joke Customs (Mar 2, 2008)

Hi,

I'm pretty new to all of this and I'm learning as I go along. I use an inkjet printer and transfer paper to make my shirts- The paper itself leaves an outline around where the words and/or image was cut. Sometimes it is less visible than others. What is the best way to eliminate (or at least substantially reduce) the outline's visibility. I use a good quality sheet, and follow the directions exactly- I have also tried using a teflon sheet to repress for about 5-10 seconds after- I tend to do this soon after the initial press. (...not sure if I should wait on that for a bit or not either.) For now, my main concern is the visibility of the outline- I feel like it makes the shirt look cheap. Is this common and how do I get rid of it (other than not using inkjet transfer sheets- haha.) Thanks for your help.

-Dave (NJC)


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## make_edit (Jan 25, 2008)

It should go away by itself. You will be surprised that even just leaving it on a table and coming back 30 min later it will be noticeably better.


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## No Joke Customs (Mar 2, 2008)

Thanks for the Reply "Make edit." Much appreciated. I did do some last night, and while they didn't turn out too bad, I still noticibly see the outline on 1-2 of the 3. Do you know of any way, other than what I have already tried, to help get rid of it? Thanks again.

-Dave (NJC)


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## make_edit (Jan 25, 2008)

You might could loosen the pressure, or if it is actually frying the fibers(looks like there are little sparkle flecks in it) you could lower the temperature a bit. Also depends on the fabric you are using.


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## No Joke Customs (Mar 2, 2008)

Thanks again for the reply, "Make edit." I use a 50/50 blend shirt. I don't think I'm getting the fried effect, but that's good to know- I'll have to keep an eye out for that. I'll try the pressure/temp adjustments and see what happens- I'm still a bit curious why using the same time/pressure/temp. the shirts gave me different results... go figure. haha. Thanks again.

-Dave (NJC)


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Are you talking about the clear polymer window around your design within your trimming line?

If that is what you are referring to, that will always transfer to the shirt, unless you invest in a cutter/plotter that will trim your design extremely close for you. To do it by hand with an exacto knife is alot of work.

With a paper like Jetprosofstretch, the window just about disappears after the first wash. In fact, since JPSS has barely a hand at all, it is almost not detectable after the first wash. The polymer window is not an issue on my JP shirts, and I sometimes leave rectangle boxes around text. 

JP = tshirtsupplies.com. Sample pack is one penny, plus low shipping.

No fading, stretches with shirt instead of cracking, very soft hand, polymer is known to all but disappear, if not disappear.


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## No Joke Customs (Mar 2, 2008)

Thanks for the reply "Girlzndolls." That is what I was referring to. I actually am using the soft-stretch and one did turn out real well, while the other 2 I did showed signs of the cut line. I wasn't sure what I did different, because I though I did them all the same way, I pressed for 5 seconds to remove wrinkles and moisture, applied sheet at 375 for 30sec. as per the directions, then repressed w/ teflon for another 5-10 seconds. Does repressing after the initial press possibly make the line more visible if left on a few seconds longer? I though it would help reduce the line. Anyway, thanks for the help.

-Dave (NJC)


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

That line won't change from pressing, pre-pressing or time. That's the chemical product on the paper that carries the ink to the substrate (shirt in this case). Whereever it is present, and no ink, it will look like you see it. Only washing will reduce it.

On that note, the shirt itself will make a huge difference as to how noticeable the window is. The window is what we call the outer edge of the image, the leftover polymer "box" or outline.

I just tested JP on a Hane's 100% cotton beefy tee, and a Gildans 50/50 cotton/poly Ultra blend.

Hands down the Gildan's appearance is superior by far.

The window on the Gildan's is barely detectable, the window on the Hane's is much heavier. I am convinced it is the full cotton content. It is apparent in all of my tests.

While the color has a tiny bit more punch on the cottons (more cotton for the color to adhere to), the finished product on the 50/50's are visually superior for a clean, sleek look.

The difference in color punch is negligable. Hope this info helps you get where you want to go. Best regards.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

trim up to your pic leave no space that is what I do when selling them so there is no mark at all it will hold up I have washed shirts that I do this to and they look very nice


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## koi dragon (Aug 7, 2007)

Dave,
I had the same issues using the same paper and same settings. I know it is hard to cut directly around the words, but I take the time to cut all designs as close as possible and it has worked out much better for me. 

I also lowered the pressure because it can change from shirt to shirt, not sure how or why but I can do one shirt and the pressure reads 3 and without touching the press, the next shirt the reading says 6. I restart and lower the pressure and it seems to work. I switched from Hanes to Gildan 50/50 and I agree with Kelly, the window is far less.


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## No Joke Customs (Mar 2, 2008)

Thanks for the info. I'll def. give it a try.

-Dave (NJC)


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