# Where and what heat press transfer paper to buy



## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Hi,

I've been looking around this forum for a bit trying to find some recommendations for heat press paper. But whenever I click on a link, it leads me to a printer, or a plotter; nothing i was looking for.
So, since I know lots of people here have heat presses have experimented with different types of paper, I was wondering what you recommend, also at an affordable price.
And I was also wondering, can you get paper for both light and dark garments? Or do you have to buy different paper for light and dark garments?
And, another question I almost forgot to ask: is there a special type of ink you have to use?
If so, could you also recommend me some of that.

I would really appreciate if you could help me out.

Thanks so much in advance,
Tristan


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## Nick Horvath (Feb 26, 2010)

There are basically two main types of transfer papers, paper for inkjet printers, and paper for color laser printers/copiers.

Since most people already own some sort of inkjet printer, inkjet transfer papers are the most popular. They would use the same ink that you would use in everyday printing. The paper for the color laser printers/copiers work well too, but they mostly involve going to a copy center to print your designs.

For inket papers, there are papers for light and white fabrics, and papers for dark fabrics, known as "Opaque" paper. 

Papers for light and white garments usually work well, but I have yet to find an Opaque paper that actually works on a fabric with any amount of polyester in it without showing dye migration. People use these with success, but you have to be careful with the garment you are applying them to.

You can find these papers pretty much anywear. A good manufacturer of papers is One Step Paper. 

Please let me know if you have any other questions.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

The Opaque paper is for dark or light garments? I'm not sure if your referring to both light and dark garment paper as opaque paper.

Thanks,
Tristan


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've been looking around this forum for a bit trying to find some recommendations for heat press paper. But whenever I click on a link, it leads me to a printer, or a plotter; nothing i was looking for.
> So, since I know lots of people here have heat presses have experimented with different types of paper, I was wondering what you recommend, also at an affordable price.


There are separate sections of the forum dedicated to heat transfer papers:

Inkjet:
Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper - T-Shirt Forums

Laser:
Laser Heat Transfer Paper - T-Shirt Forums





> And I was also wondering, can you get paper for both light and dark garments? Or do you have to buy different paper for light and dark garments?


Inkjet = different paper for white/lights than for dark shirts. But rules are made to bend. I've seen experiments turn out nicely and as well, sometimes, seen a really light shirt done with paper for darks. Different situations could arise, but generally, two different papers.

Laser = unless been some great improvement in a paper lately (and that is always possible) the laser folks weren't thrilled with what was available for darks (neither are the inkjet folks really) but there are products for dark for both processes.





> And, another question I almost forgot to ask: is there a special type of ink you have to use?


What printing process are you focusing on because not only is there inkjet and laser, but dye sub and it's papers and all 3 are different processes.

Rather than explain all, which are you going for first?


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

inkjet, becuase Nick said thats the kind of ink that comes with a regular printer.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> The Opaque paper is for dark or light garments? I'm not sure if your referring to both light and dark garment paper as opaque paper.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tristan



Opaque by definition means not transparent or translucent. That means you cannot see thru it.

Opaque paper means you cannot see thru it. You can't see the shirt color below. Opaque paper is completely white, like a piece of white paper.

It's easier to understand when it's called paper for dark shirts, but it's often called opaque paper just because it's not see thru. That's the point. Block the shirt color, say on a black shirt, so the printed image (on the white paper) shows up on the shirt. 

Hope that helps. I know how weird opaque paper sounds. I remember thinking, I"ll never remember these terms. You do, it'll happen.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> inkjet, becuase Nick said thats the kind of ink that comes with a regular printer.


Careful. I used a Canon with regular photographic ink and the shirts faded. I went to Epson and pigment ink and most of the fade stopped. I switched from Ironall light to JPSS and the fade ended completely.

I went back to Canon ink with JPSS just to test the paper and it did not fade. I added bleach to JPSS with pigment and dye inks and they did not fade. 

You saw that thread if you clicked the link I gave you.

My "old" Ironall light supply would never have been able to hold up to that, not even with pigment ink.... the newer Ironall light may be different. Formulas change over time....

Just be careful. Not all printers, papers and blanks work well together, or as well as other combinations.

What printer do you have?


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## Nick Horvath (Feb 26, 2010)

Another good way of explaining Opaque Paper, is that it is actually a print receptive film on top of (what is usually) a paper carrier. You would also not mirror your image on this paper like you would using the inkjet paper for white/lights.


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## Dtgman (Feb 11, 2010)

Simple - Coastalbusiness.com for all paper needs i use them for 4 years now


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

My dad has an epson printer, so that would work, put how would you put the pigment ink into the printer?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> My dad has an epson printer, so that would work, put how would you put the pigment ink into the printer?


Hey Tristan, what model is your Dad's printer? It may already have pigment ink in it. I look on Epson - Exceed Your Vision and then search the model number. It will tell you what ink the printer uses in the "specs" "inks".

If you already have a printer with pigment ink, you can try any of the papers for lights and darks (shirts that is). Pigment works with all papers really well.

If you are only going to print a little, you can just stay with the ink cartridges that are already in your printer.

So what model number is the printer?


JPSS = Jetpro Sofstretch (<-- long name, the real name).

It is sold by many suppliers under that name. I like tshirtsupplies.com as a supplier, but there is also coastal Business (as mentioned) proworld, and quite a few others. 

There's a list of vendors on the left side of the screen, the ones with yellow stars offer a forum discount to members, and you can even "google" the name JPSS to see if there is a supplier near you you can buy from without shipping cost. You could be one of the lucky ones!


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

I'm actually not at home right now but i'll check once i'm home.

And, do you think this paper is a good deal?

Heat Transfer Paper for Inkjet Printers


tristan


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

When it comes to shopping, I"m going to leave crunching the numbers to you. Add in your shipping, which will vary, and then divide by the total number of pages.

For your first order, you might not get as lucky as in the future. You can sign up with some vendors like Coastal, Tshirtsupplies.com, PRoworld and get their email newletters. 

Regularly you will see sales and coupon codes, often on the paper you use. That's what I do. Some sales are really great, too.

So best price is a matter of you going to any of those vendors (I like them all, people on the forum regularly use them as well as a few more) and see who's got good pricing or a sale going on.

I 'think' in the Preferred vendor intro area (go to the home page to find that section) a few of these suppliers have threads, and I think in those threads, they will post if they are having sales. 

Look there, too, as well as checking the yellow stars on the left of the forum. 

Will wait to hear what printer you've got.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

what do you pay per sheet on average?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

If a pack of 25 sheets cost $27.00 with $10 shipping... $37 divided by 25 sheets = $1.48 per sheet.

If a pack from someone else costs $19.00 with $12 shipping... $31 divided by 25 sheets = $1.24 per sheet.

That is how you can compare apples to apples with pricing. 

If you use alot of paper, that extra money per sheet will add up, chews up your possible profits needlessly... as long as the service and availability is equal, there's no reason to pay more for the same product. Does that help?


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Turns out my dad doesn't have an epson, i just thought he did.
The only printers I have in my house are:
Canon MP160
HP photosmart C3180 All-in-One
HP photosmart C4280 All-in-One

I could find if those contain pigment ink.

I was also wondering, can you buy pigment ink cartridges that fit the printers above?


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

yes, thank you


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> Turns out my dad doesn't have an epson, i just thought he did.
> The only printers I have in my house are:
> Canon MP160


For the Canon, you can go to Canon dot com. You want to read about the "specs" (specifications). They will usually include information as to whether the ink is photographic dye or pigment based.



> HP photosmart C3180 All-in-One
> HP photosmart C4280 All-in-One


For the HP's, we found them a little trickier to tell sometimes. I have a thread for you about HP inks. Included are directions on how to use the site to look up your particular ink cartridge. 

Here is the link:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/printers-inks-inkjet-laser-transfers/t64394.html





> I could find if those contain pigment ink.


With the HPs you might find the blacks are pigment and the colors dye. Not all Vivera is pigment, either. Look up the printer model thru that link. It will say dye based or pigment based for every cart that goes in the printer.



> I was also wondering, can you buy pigment ink cartridges that fit the printers above?


Depending on the printer, if it DOES NOT come with pigment, then you have to look to see if there are any generic inks that you can buy replacement carts or bulk ink systems to use instead of what HP or Canon planned.

The most commonly used printer in inkjet heat transfers are the Epsons. They are not the "only'' printer, but they are really commonly used. 

That is because alot of them come with pigment ink, but that's not a staying reason.

If some one prints alot, that ink gets really expensive. The pretty nice thing about Epson is that there are alot of substitute ink solutions that are not from Epson and alot cheaper.

They are called 3rd party generic inks.

I have a Epson 1400 printer that does not come with pigment, but going to a supplier like inkjetcarts.us, I can buy empty refillable carts that fit my printer and a supply of pigment ink and covert the 1400 to a pigment printer that way. 

It's not 100% trouble free all the time for everyone (the nozzles for dye and pigment are different sizes) but with care and proper use, can be a great workable solution to getting pigment ink.

If you look on epson.com in the clearance. There are often cheap printers being cleared out. They are pretty perfect for heat trasnfers if you plan to stay within the 8.5x11 size, any of the lower priced ones will do, just check and see if someone like inkjetcarts.us, shopdyesub.com or inkjetfly.com (there are others, just search the forum) and make sure there are replacement ink systems for the model you are looking at.

The HPs will work if you get the right paper, blank ink combination, the canon could work (as well as the HP) if you stick with JPSS as it seems to work really well in my (and others experience) with dye inks.

Sample pack of papers, print with your printers and test wash. Than you'll know.

If you want to google your printer model and refill ink carts, you can see if anyone has them for your models.

BUT, if the mfg did not make your printer with pigment inks, you cannot get pigment ink carts to use from HP or Canon. They will only supply what originally came with.

Fingers tired! Taking a break! lol

Go to those websites, look up your inks, look up if there are 3rd party "refill carts" (or bulk ink/continuous ink systems if you want a bigger supply of ink) and then look at epsons if you don't see ink options for what you have....

outside of the cost of Canon or HP ink, JPSS should get the job done for you. I wouldn't count that out until you try it and wash the shirts.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

sadly, none of my printer show up on the website 
but i found this epson printer that i'm considering buying because i cant find whether any of mine have pigment ink in them or not, here are the specs:

Ink Palette

Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black
Ink Cartridge Configuration

5 individual ink cartridges
Ink Type

DURABrite® Ultra pigment ink
(smudge, fade and water resistant, highlighter friendly)
Light Resistance / Print Longevity

Up to 105 years1
Minimum Ink Droplet Size

3 droplet sizes, as small as 3 picoliters
Maximum Resolution (dots per inch)

5760 x 1440 optimized dpi

Is that good?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Durabrite will do the job. That's in some of my printers. If you get something where the colors shift under the heat of the press, you will need to reduce the "yellow" in the settings (cross that bridge later) and if that doesn't work, then find one of the refill cart systems from one of the 3rd party ink suppliers and that will fix it...

That's the only thing with durabrite... and not everyone has that trouble, I don't, but those who do swear off Durabrite and wont' touch it. Look up thread, Durabrite you're fired for more info.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Do you think that if i go to best buy or some store like that the people would know whether my printers have pigment inks? Or are they generally not so good with that kind of stuff?


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Here is a link to the thread that I started about the inkjet paper JPSS. I ended up buying an Epson Workforce 1100 for under 90 bucks after printer trade in. This printer is nice because it comes with pigment inks from the start, which the 1400 does not. A member baddjun1(teach) really pointed me in the right direction. http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t108623.html BTW, you don't say what model that is, but the specs are good.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

epson workforce 30 i believe


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

The 1400 comes with Claria ink. I've used it with JPSS and it works great. Even bleached it, but I can't say the same would be true with other papers, I haven't tried them.

Either of those Epsons are great. You only need the 4 or 5 carts for this process. Unless you need larger size prints (over 8.5x11) the rest is great but not needed.

Tristan, I wouldn't rely on the Best Buy guys. Dig deeper on the internet, the information is out there. I've checked enough printers out in my time to know I've found the info on almost every model I've ever checked. I'd be surprised if you really can't turn up those specs on the Canon and HP sites.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

All it says is that they both have inkjet printing technology


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Kelly really knows what she is talking about, I went with the 1100 because it comes with pigments from the start, it is wide format, can print to 13x19, and I got a great deal. The price of the 1400 and 1100 is about the same, I ordered mine from Staples on sale for 129.99 online, and they had 50 dollar rebate on bringing in a printer to recylcle. I had an old HP in the garage that did not work, so I took that in. They adjusted my credit card after showing proof of purchase. Anyway, I got some heat transfer inks from inkjetcarts.net, but I have not installed them yet. I will when the original Durabrites get low. I have printed 9 full color photo transfers so far, plus several text sheets and am less than half empty. Other users say they are a inkhog, so I went with the re-fillable carts. You can get JPSS transfer paper in larger sizes too, they sell it in 11x17 and 13x19 sizes also. I will get some 13x19's and check it out, make a nice BIG transfer! Anyway have fun, if you get one of these printers, I think you will happy, and JPSS looks great on a white tee, lots of compliments.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

is this the 1100?
Epson WorkForce 1100 Wide-format Printer, Overview - Product Information - Epson America, Inc.


and this the 1400?

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CCgQ8wIwAg#ps-sellers


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Yep, Tristan, that'd be the one! That's not a bad price, either. You might find it even cheaper looking around, or waiting for sales. I almost paid 199.99, but someone on this site clued me into the Staples sale. Anyway, a buck fifty's not a bad deal.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

alright, thanks.
we're on a tight budget, so for now i think i'll just get the one i found because its only 69.99$, but hopefully i'll be able to buy that other one soon.


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Tristan, just checked Office Max and Office depot sites, and they are both at 199.99 for that printer. I checked the Staples site, Epson WorkForce® 1100 Wide-Format Printer | Staples® and they are at 149.98, but they still have the printer exchange deal going on. So, if you have an old printer, or get a free one off craigslist, your down to 100 bucks. It is a slight hassle taking in an old printer, but worth it for 50 bucks. Later, E.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

but for the used printed rebate you have to buy a 199$ @ full price


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Well, Tristan, thats not how it worked for me. They go by the original price. When I got mine, it was 199.98 with a 70 dollar instant savings, bringing the online price to 129.98. I ordered online, got it delivered, then took the old printer to Staples, and they adjusted my card in the store. It worked for me, if you don't want to take the chance or the hassle, I understand. If you choose the other printer, I'm sure it will work fine, you just won't have the wide format capabilty.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

allright, thanks


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

No problem, I'd hate for you to somehow get screwed if the store you went to did not honor the recycle. Anyway, the smaller printer is only half as much. BUT the wide format is nice, very quiet and pretty fast, depending on the quality. Guess it just depends on what you are willing to spend. If you plan on doing alot of transfers, you might want to look into aftermarket inks also, as they will save you a bunch. That is something you can decide on later, as you determine your use. I went to www.inkjetcarts.us you can go there and see if they have inkcarts for the printer you want to buy beforehand.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

You can look at epson.com - there are refurbs available right now. 

I was getting my C120's for $31 - $39. That's less than the cost of ink.  I was buying them for ink refills since I procrastinate in getting my refill carts from inkjetcarts.us. Over time, I'm just way over paying lol. 

I bought my 1400 as a refurb for $142 delivered to my door. It's a beautiful printer.

Epson refurbs, here's my take:

I own many of them. I have a fax printer CX9400 ( bought 3, gave two to relatives as presents since they were retiring and would lost fax ability being home, they all work perfectly after well more than a year of service), I own multiple C120's, will never even end up getting thru them I am sure. I bought most of them for the inks but the two I use with computers work Great! I bought my c88+ as a refurb. No problems and the 1400 (I'm using the Claria ink ~which is a hybrid water resistant dye ink~ with it and it's just a beautiful printer.) 

Luckily, I don't get any color shifting with my Durabrite printers, so I"m good there. If I did, I'd already have my carts. 

Here is a link to Epson.com. I am "pretty sure" someone had trouble with a refurb and Epson took care of it. It may have been my friend Ashamutt, I will ask her, it was a long time ago. That is not a knock against the Epson refurbs, as a glitch can happen with new ones, and if you saw the way we buy the refurbs around here when they go on sale, you'd see it like me... a non issue.  

I also have a Mac book Pro refurb and it's a gorgeous, fine running machine. Mackie PA speakers on the other hand, never again, but I digress! lol.

Here's a link:
Clearance Epson Ink Jet Printers - Epson Clearance Center - Epson America, Inc.


1400 is $159. That's a great price, too, if you can't find a recycle program going on, anddd the Workforce 30 is $49. Not bad!!! Leaves money for the refill cart system!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Bigwebman, great post and great advice on checking those models for replacement ink PRIOR to buying the printer. I made that mistake very first printer I tried. CX8400. No replaceable ink at the time. I knew I wanted that, so back it went to the store, then I learned about the refurbs, picked up my first of many Epsons. I buy them like candy! I'm not the only one! LOL. There are many of us with printers in the attic. I can say, I wasn't the worst. Someone bought about 10 of them! 

They discontinue printers, so when you have the refill carts, but your printer dies, and no longer exists, it's great to have another in the stock room or attic to just toss the body and change the carts. 

The bodies are kind of considered disposable... and the more you use it the faster it'll die. They don't make money on the bodies, they make it on the ink. 

I'll go ask Asha about the replaced printer. Pretty sure it was her. See you guys.


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Thanks for the link, Kelly, I think I am about due for a printer for another of my pc's. You are right about getting the printer for the cost of the ink. If Tristan chooses the wf30, that's a great deal.


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## Nick Horvath (Feb 26, 2010)

I just want to say that this post has generated allot of great information on inket papers!

The one issue that comes up sometimes in my experience that I wanted to mention is that there can be print durability issues when using 3rd party inks. One of the first questions we ask when troubleshooting paper issues is if the customer is using manufacturer's inks or 3rd party inks. Not to say ALL 3rd party inks are bad, I am just putting out there what I have experienced.

Great thread!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

You're right, Nick. That's why I am going with what my friends here use, tried and true. Do believe it is the same ink that BigWebman is using because Ross at inkjetcarts is the supplier.

There are other inks/set ups available from other suppliers as well that others on the forum use with success. The threads are there, most with wash pictures to show what inks work and what don't. 

But for sure, there are low grade 3rd party inks that are available. Great point, Nick. I know I wouldn't use an ink that is unknown.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> ...... I am "pretty sure" someone had trouble with a refurb and Epson took care of it. It may have been my friend Ashamutt, I will ask her, it was a long time ago. That is not a knock against the Epson refurbs, as a glitch can happen with new ones, and if you saw the way we buy the refurbs around here when they go on sale, you'd see it like me... a non issue.


 
YEP!!! It was me!

Epson replaced one of my C120's because the paper feed "rollers" pinched the paper too hard and left "indent lines" running down the page.

I called tech support and they shipped me a new Epson workforce immediately! 
(which is still sitting in my attic!)


My refurb-epson C120 has been running for a long time ....no problems! 

I use re-fill carts and HT pigment inks from inkjetcarts.us 
...have been for about 2 years!
No problems at all!
(I like the re-fill carts MUCH better than the CIS)

I own several C120's (like kelly) and use one for sublimation. I got my re-fill carts for my sub-printer from inkjetcarts.us too.
IF using re-fill carts for sublimation inks remember to ask for the NON-FILTERED carts!!! (carts with the filters removed!)

I also own an Epson 1400 and use re-fill carts & HT PIGMENT inks for this printer as well.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thank you much, Mam. Do you print everyday with your 1400, or can you let it go a few days without clogging or any issues... or even longer?

I can't swing the $ on the ink for the 1400 any longer. Time to really buckle down and place my order! 

Thanks, Mrs. B.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

you were talking about refurbd printers, so if i order the workforce 30 (refurbd) and it doesnt work or somethings wrong with it, theyll send me another one?

And does that generally happen?


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Do you have to peel JPSS hot?


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thank you much, Mam. Do you print everyday with your 1400, or can you let it go a few days without clogging or any issues... or even longer?
> 
> I can't swing the $ on the ink for the 1400 any longer. Time to really buckle down and place my order!
> 
> Thanks, Mrs. B.


I can let it sit for a while(1400).... would not want to let it sit for over 2 weeks though....just in case.

Now my C120(HT pigment inks not sub inks) I have let sit for over a month and everything was just fine!!!
.....did a head cleaning and BAM - everything printed perfectly!!!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

tang3 said:


> you were talking about refurbd printers, so if i order the workforce 30 (refurbd) and it doesnt work or somethings wrong with it, theyll send me another one?
> 
> And does that generally happen?


I would call Epson and ask that because their "return-policy" might have changed.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

tang3 said:


> Do you have to peel JPSS hot?


Peel hot! VERY hot!!!

And search the forum for JPSS cold peel...some people do this.
kelly?....


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

so right when i lift the press?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> Do you have to peel JPSS hot?



That is really a personal choice... but.... I would never cold peel JPSS.

People were looking for a way to get the finish to not have a slightly gritty feel when they tried that. Rhonda/Queerrep finally found the secret to making it work without cracking in the first wash... and here's the link.

Her instructions have to be followed veryyy carefullyyy:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t56833.html#post337368


Using parchment paper in heat press is nothing new, but one day I realized, using parchment paper instead of teflon for the second press reallyyyyy gave the JPSS a nice smooth finish. Much more like Ironall light (IYA jetwear/clearsoft/etc)... so I switched to that method.

When parchment paper on the second press solves the finish issue, why on earth would I risk the troubles of cold peel? No need. 

Link to parchment thread:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t69756.html


Lastly - here are some tips for a lasting image and how to heat press step by step and why you are doing these steps.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t39007.html#post229735

Now, not everyone uses the same exact method step by step, but this is what works for me (and quite a few others) and I am willing to share that with you, you are free to see if there are steps you don't need, but for one reason or another, I found all these valuable in some way.

Gotta do ALOT of reading when you start out in heat press inkjet transfers.

There are only a few steps to making a great shirt, but a thousand little ways to really screw one up!!!

Read read read, get a sample pack and from there, it does start to fly. You'll be fine, just keep reading.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> so right when i lift the press?


Yes. To help avoid burnt fingers from the hot shirt, you can pick gently stretch the shirt just to the sides of the transfer. Makes the transfer backer paper pop off the shirt and gives you something to grab right away.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

could i use something like a butter knife or toothpick?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lol... you don't need to. You'll see. It'll be fine. Besides if you are going to do this for any length of time, you just get tough fingers and knuckles, they learn to deal with it on their own! lol. JK... 

But you won't need those things and you won't want to take the time to use them. It'll slow you down, even if it's a few shirts. You'll see. Stretch, pop, peel, you'll be fine. 

You watch video yet?


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Yes, very helpful.
I just want to say thanks again because you have been such a help. i joined this website not knowing anything, and because of you, I know the basics, and some other things too.
THANK YOU!!!!!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

tang3 said:


> Yes, very helpful.
> I just want to say thanks again because you have been such a help. i joined this website not knowing anything, and because of you, I know the basics, and some other things too.
> THANK YOU!!!!!


YEP!!!
Kelly's one of the main reasons I am where I am today!
She was always there for me in the beginning and has been there for me over this last 2 years!!!!
(I love you dear friend!)

See that big MHM on the right side of her shirt?
It is there for a reason!
...and WELL DESERVED!!!
TRULY!!!



And don't worry tang, I promise, your fingers will get used to HOT peel!!!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Man, thanks, you guys... what a way to start a morning. Kind words much appreciated (and feels a bit undeserving there, Mrs. B!) But thank youuuuuu!!! So nice.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Also, i just had a couple more questions about JPSS.
do you have to cut out your design? or does it only transfer the ink?
also, how do you wash it? and can i put it in the dryer? iron it? etc...


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Tristan, you can trim around the edge, (that's what I do sometimes). I does not just transfer the ink, there will be a white box around the image if you don't trim it. You really don't see it much on a white tee, but that is why it is not used much on a black or dark tee. The wash instructions say turn inside out, wash warm or cold, dry on low settings. No bleach. BUT, I have washed mine in hot, right side out, added bleach, dried hot, and the image is still there. There is some fading this way, but not as much as you might think. When you get your setup, just experiment and see what works for you.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

thanks.
do you know any papers that you dont have to trim? or are all papers like JPSS?


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

I believe there is a process you use with a laser printer and an inkjet together, that results in a transfer that only transfers the image. I think you need special papers and not sure of the process, as I don't have a laser printer. There are threads on this site about how to do it, but I have not followed them. Do a search, or maybe Kelly can help you!


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

ok, is red considered a light garment?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> ok, is red considered a light garment?


Ohhh, red.... ~shivers down my spine~ 

Red is not considered a light color and is one of the most troublesome colors for me to do with dark papers. A little too much heat on the dark paper, it loses it's opaqueness and red begins to bleed thru. Black is my other nemesis. But, can be done and is, just a little tricker.

But, no hard fast rules in this game. If you use an ink that is much darker (or darker) than the red color of the shirt, and use paper for lights, the image will show up. Will the unprinter area, called polymer window show up to? Prolly, but a test sample will tell you if and how badly.

Heather grey tees really show the polymer coating, some other colors can hide it.

Blank tee shirts will react differently too... so if one fabric looks bad, try a different brand of blend of fabric... say, instead of 100% cotton (and always order preshrunk... the shirt can shrink, the transfer cannot... results likely in bubbly, lumpy transfer after wash <-- been there done that lol). 

There is a paper called Image clip for inkjet. Here's a link to the thread on it. 

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t71144.html

More complicated, by a little, extra machine required, either by way of an office store or buying a black and white laser.

Tristan, if you look at that link I gave you on JPSS bleach pictures, pigment and dye ink...

I show the pictures throughout an 11 or 12 wash cycle test.
Describe each wash as it went thru the process. Click that link... read, read, read.

I know it's alot of reading, but that is how I learned all this, too. REAd, and go do, read and go do, then experiment... solve the personal issues you run into.

It's actually really fun and once you are over the initial hump... it's really pretty easy, but I know some of these questions will be answered when you take a good look at the links I gave you.

Look again at the JPSS bleach thread. You'll see exactly how those shirts help up against mild than brutal wash tests.

I am happy and impressed with the product, but I think my blank tee has quite alot to do with the end results.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

bigwebman said:


> there will be a white box around the image if you don't trim it. You really don't see it much on a white tee, but that is why it is not used much on a black or dark tee.


The biggest reason it's not used much on a black tee is because you won't see any colors in the design if they are not darker than the tee itself. The ink is translucent and lets the shirt color come thru. With black, no explanation needed.... but... one guy did cut unprinted JPSS into a nice design and transfered just the polymer onto a black tee. It was an interesting and unusual result. I can't say I'd do it... as the polymer seems to wash away or soften in the subsequent washes, but the initial posted pics of the freshly pressed designs were neat.

For color shirts, the tee shirt color can affect and tint the design colors. On a blue shirt, yellows will come across green. Where there is white in the design... the shirt color fills in.

How dark is too dark is asked alot when it comes to being able to use light papers. 

The answer really is, it depends. On your design, on what end look you want, and how much the design and you can tolerate when it comes to shirt color affecting the design colors. 

Some people have used dark paper on light yellow shirts just because the yellow was messing with the design. 

Ultimately, it'll be a judgement call.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

do you have to pre-heat the heat press?
sorry for all the questions


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

or how can i tell when its at the right temp?
and are you sure about 375 for 30 seconds?
im seeing other people do 330 and 8 seconds.
and ive also seen people press without anything to remove moisture,do i tap, or press for a certain amount of time?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> do you have to pre-heat the heat press?
> sorry for all the questions


Yes. Mine takes about 15 minutes until I am sure it's good and ripping to go. Another note, lower the press for about 5 seconds or so (give or take) to heat up the cold lower platen before your First shirt. The cold lower steals heat during the first press and many say, it ruins their first shirt. 

Hasn't happened to me but my press is in a warm room to start with. Some peeps are in cool workshops or other colder work areas.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> or how can i tell when its at the right temp?


No one can tell for sure without temp testing strips or an IR non contact heat temp testing gun (harbor freight, home depot).

But if you set the dial to what you want and get the expected results, there's no indiction anything would be wrong. 

Only when your results get wonky do you actually need to really take action and investigate it further.




> and are you sure about 375 for 30 seconds?


For me? Yep. For you? Nope. 




> im seeing other people do 330 and 8 seconds.


That sounds like a setting for dark paper inkjet heat transfers, which are totally different from light papers when pressing... 

But if that is for JPSS, in the JPSS mach 1 thread, those look like some of the temps people were messing around with. 

Not unseen, but how do they hold up in the wash? How does that work with the blank shirt you are using? 

That's what you need to find out. =)





> and ive also seen people press without anything to remove moisture,do i tap, or press for a certain amount of time?


Yes, not everyone does remove moisture, in fact, Grey mists her shirts prior to pressing because she found that works for her.

I wouldn't because that doesn't work for me, well, I will admit, not that I have tried it, but here is the thing with inkjet heat press....

When what you do does work, you don't go messing with your system!!!

Too many odd little things happen to ruin shirts that when you find a formula that is giving YOU the results you want to see after 10 or 12 wash tests... YOU STICK WITH IT! LOL... You just do. 

So you need to find what does work for you. There are not alot of people on the forum doing their shirts the 'same exact' way... yet the end result may be the same quality shirt produced.

It's not like driving a manual car where everyone has to press the clutch, foot on brake, shift into first, blahblahblah.

And that's probably a bad analogy because sometimes, folks start out in second instead of first or don't use their clutch! In that sense, it's like inkjet heat transfer, but if your car won't let you skip second, you gotta start in first. Same with this.

Your press, transfers, ink, personal work environment (humidity level), where and how you store you supplies, will all sort of dictate what problems you may encounter and from there, you'll refine your process to solve them.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t39007.html#post229735

^^ explains removing moisture from shirts.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

For me? Yep. For you? Nope. 

what is that supposed to mean?
should i try that or not?
i mean, the kind of press shouldn't matter because time is time and temperature is temperature, so what do you mean?

So, 375 degrees farenheit for 30 seconds: YES or NO?
if no, what did you start with?


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Tristan, I think Kelly is just saying that there are variables for every heat press/paper combo. Your results might vary. I use JPSS and with my press I use it at 350-375 degrees f. for 30 seconds, and hot peel. Some chinese presses are celsius so be sure of what system your press uses. Start with one setting, press, check results, wash, check results, see what works..Stick with it. Trial and maybe error, if lucky, all will work good. Maybe try an old shirt first, it it's a new one, be sure to pre-press to get the wrinkles and moisture out. Good Luck..


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

ok,thanks that clarified it.


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

No problem, and to clarify, I use a teflon sheet when I pre-press AND press the transfer, but I know alot of people don't. Ed from Proworld said I don't need to, and that it might cause problems, because it can lower the temp that the transfer is getting. But, I have not had a problem, and my transfers come out fine and peel good. When I pre-press with the teflon, I can actually feel moisture on the sheet after I remove it, when using a new blank shirt. I did try to press the transfer without the teflon, and it worked ok, but it was very hard to peel for me, so I stick to what works for ME. I think that's what Kelly was getting at, and you will see after you do a few pressings. E....


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> For me? Yep. For you? Nope.


You asked if I was "sure"... 

Yes, for me I am sure, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested it and shared it as my actually temp and dwell time. 

For you? Nope, I am not sure that will work. It's a GREAT place to start, as you can see Bigwebman also uses a similar temp, but there are people here who get better results with 350*F for 20 seconds,

So not knowing what will definitely work for you, "nope" means "nope, I'm not sure it will be right for you as well."





> what is that supposed to mean?
> should i try that or not?



See above.  And I also know what information is in the links I've been providing you. 

I know it is alot to read, but the questions you are asking now are really well covered in those links. So some of them, I feel like maybe you are not really reading the information, or maybe skimming it, but if you are reading them, you need to look closer at the information.

When you are in a link, and reading it, if there is something in there that you don't understand, feel free to quote it and ask.

I could give you the link again to the JPSS mach 1 thread, and in there, you will see just the how wide the range of temp and dwell times can be. The whole thread is everyone posting the time and temp they use, why and what their results are. 

Are you reading the links? Links are an excellent way to pass on great information without having to re-type the whole thing out again, besides, one person can't reiterate the experiences 20 people put into a thread.

If you are reading them, maybe take some time to look again. It sounds like there may be chunks of info you are missing.... again... I realize this stuff can and does melt a brain, so no harm at all in asking questions, but if you don't understand a thread the first time you read it, there's no harm in re-reading it. 

I have had to read threads up to 5 times sometimes, and do searches on terms I didn't understand. Time consuming and confusing, and well worth every minute. Just sayin'. 




> i mean, the kind of press shouldn't matter because time is time and temperature is temperature, so what do you mean?


The kind of press can make or break your results. Here's what I mean.

Cheap chinese no name press. 
If the platen heats up much hotter on one side then the other, only part of your transfer will be successful. Shirt ruined. 
If the platen has random cold spots, you cannot fix that no how no way, and your transfers will fail.
If the platen refuses to warm up to hot after a certain amount of time... transfer will go wrong.
Need service or a part, and the seller doesn't care, you're out in the cold in the market for a press again.


Sunie/Seiki/Transpro/Name brand presses.
A very high rate of user success, happiness, good service reports from users who have had to use their warranties.
Good history of reports by users for nice even heating across the platens and reliable results after a good length of service.

Yes, all (hopefully all) heat presses will heat up and apply pressure, but for how long, how consistently they will hold that heat and how well is where the question lies.

I AM NOT saying no one should ever buy a Chinese unknown brand heat press, but I would not and that's my opinion after watching what happens over time to a good portion of those people who do... threads looking for help finding parts for them, help finding anyone who can help them ID their press because there are no labels, help finding someone who can fix a press they don't know what kind of press it is. It's sad to see some in that kind of bind when they are freaking out because they also have an order due. (That's when you can expect problems, never fails!) 




> So, 375 degrees farenheit for 30 seconds: YES or NO?
> if no, what did you start with?


YES. I already said yes for me. Works, woot, love it, great results. You can start there and if you think you need more heat like my good friend Rhonda, she likes to cook them at 400*F, then feel free to wander from those suggested times and temps. 

I believe 375*F for 30 seconds is on the package which is the guideline I used when starting, and with excellent results, I see no need to experiment.



Thank you, Bigwebman for trying to explain what I meant to Tristan. You understood my post well. Thanks.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

And if you are going to "sell'' the shirts, I would not experiment on an old shirt. Maybe to get the steps down pat, but even then, no for me.

I want to try papers, inks, process and presses with the actual shirt I intend to sell, so that I can see exactly what is the best way to press the shirt and what the actual end product is, that the customer will see.

I have purchased a mix of about 2 dozen blanks. Varied brands (hanes, jerzees, anvil, gildan, etc) and purchased the 100% cotton and 50/50 poly versions of them and pressed, washed and tested each one.

Winners and losers clearly separately themselves quickly in the first round. From there, the survivors went on to harsh wash tests, just like the customers are likely to give them, and in the end, I found my winner. The one that could best represent the kind of product that I wanted to represent "me".

If I used an older shirt, I would not have gotten real life results. Older shirts are already thru the final shrinking processes, and as well, they could already be in the process of fibrillation, and that can mar the actual results of the transfer and misrepresent the real results.

I hope that makes sense. Best wishes, as always. 

I write the posts I do to be a non - mystifying as possible. Tristan, if you do not understand my answers, it's because you are still learning, and reading the links thoroughly will be a big, big key in clearing the mystery around the process.

Do you understand what I mean when I say inkjet is a simple, complex process? It won't come to you overnight, but now you may be at the point where once you ''start doing'' you'll really start to understand what some of the answers do mean.

Did you order a sample pack? You are ready if you haven't... you're ready.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

no, i get what you mean by simple complex. i haven't ordered a sample pack, but everyone says JPSS is GREAT so i think i'll just immediately order 25 sheets.


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## bigwebman (Jan 27, 2010)

Good advice on the used shirt idea, Kelly, I meant for her to use it as a means to get familiar with her press and settings, not a baseline for shirts to sell. Thanks for clearing that up, as always, you have great advice and experience. It's great you give such detailed replies!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Tristan, I can assure you JPSS is, imo, if not the highest regarded paper on the forum, its competition, Iya Jetwear (ironall) is a close second. The only knock against Ironall is the bad history with fading. Once I left Ironall for the colorfastness of JPSS, I never looked back. 

Ironall will always have it's fans... but JPSS regularly has it's praises sung like no other paper since I have been here and I think you see that, too. And in my experience, JPSS deserves it. 

Eric, thank you so much for your kind words and I appreciate your great posts as well. I had a feeling you were only saying it for the "learning process" and many do that, but new shirts act differently than older shirts in a few ways that it was worth mentioning. Thanks for being cool. 

Tristannnn, I hope you try the paper. YOu only need an iron to get the job done. It take 3 minutes to fully transfer an image with a hand iron. Lots of putting your back into it, but without needing to get your press first, you can see what these products are like, how they feel, what they do. And you invested maybe (how much are the sample packs?) $10? The 25 packs of straight JPSS aren't that much either.

Here's a little tidbit. I started out with Ironall light and dark, and hand ironed. Actually, got my 220 pound husband with big guns to take care of the transfer part for me. I called him my 'human heat press'. I did everything else, he came home and pressed the shirts. 

I did that long enough to earn enough money to buy my Stahl's Might Press lite outright. 

When it now took 30 seconds of lowering a lid to make a shirt, trust me, I was jumping for joy, but I will also tell you this, we hand ironed those shirts (yes I took a turn if I HAD to lol) but we did such a good job on them, we could not see a difference in the two shirts, heat pressed or hand ironed. Or iron rocked. Got very hot. 

The shirts we kept here, even after a year of washing, could not distinguish which were hand ironed and which were the press. And time had erased our memories as which design was which...

That's my testimony to the statement that hand ironing, if done properly, can produce the same results as a press. Seen it with my own eyes. I typed the hand iron process out somewhere. I could find it. 

Let me know if you order the sample or regular pack and are ready to hand iron if you don't have your press yet. I could share the finer tips on what makes it really work out. 

A stool and a formica countertop are muy importante. Night all! Hope you have a great Sunday.

Thanks again, Eric, and you, too.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

Wait, if i have an inkjet printer, and the JPSS says "produce photo-quality transfers with your inkjet printer" can I use that printer? or are all printers inkjet?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> Wait, if i have an inkjet printer, and the JPSS says "produce photo-quality transfers with your inkjet printer" can I use that printer? or are all printers inkjet?


That depends on your blank shirt, in part.

I have used JPSS paper with:

Epson printers with Claria hybrid water resistant dye ink, pigment ink.

Canon photographic dye ink.

I got great results with all three kinds of inks, but personal results may vary. Someone here named Charles and another named David did not get great results at all with JPSS paper and Claria ink. 

Maybe because I am on the east coast, David is in TX and Charles is on the west coast and maybe we all used different suppliers or got different batches of paper.

Maybe we all used different blank tees from each other.

Maybe we store our papers in different conditions.

Maybe the ink we used in our printers came from different Epson ink mfg locations.

There is absolutely no way of knowing why one person gets great results and the next does not.

Just too many variables...

So it comes down to this.... you have the JPSS paper, you have the printer. Run the paper thru the printer, press it, then wash and dry it a bunch of times... see how your ink holds up.

If it does not fade or run, you are in luck and good to go. If it fades or runs, change ink or printer, or both.

Almost ALL shirts will look awesome when pressly pressed, that is rarely the test.

The test is how do they hold up over time? How long does the print last? Not to mention, how long until your blank shirt pills, or begins fibrillation? I've had many transfers outlast the tshirt as far as tee shirt staying new looking as long as the transfer did. (Fibrillation is when the cotton fibers, tiny, start to raise and the shirt looks very slightly fuzzy, and the image can look like it is fading, when in reality, it might not be, it might be fibrillation doing it.

Some people re-press a fibrillating shirt and say it brings the image right back, but customers won't do this. They'll just think your product is fading early.

Hope that helps.


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

GRRR! Just when I thought I had it figured out...I have an Epson 4800 Hybrid which I hate!! Anyway, thinking of changing to Ricoh 3300 for sublimation. It was then suggested to get the Okidata laser printer for T-shirts, as there are "several different types of transfer paper one can use". Is there a benefit to a laser printer over an inkjet? Also, if someone could give me the link that was mentioned in an earlier post for information about transfer papers for lasers I would appreciate it. I can't find it. Thanks for everyone's input, this forum really helps with issues and equipment buying.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Cynthia,

That topic is well discussed... if you do a search for "inkjet vs laser" that is my favorite way to bring about 5 or 10 or so great threads on that topic. I think one is even named that. 

They are different enough that one might prefer one over the other for a few reasons, all of them show up in the threads that come back with that search. Best wishes...


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks Kelly, I will do that!!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Cynthia said:


> Thanks Kelly, I will do that!!


It's been a few days. Did you find them okay with that search? It should be easy peasy....


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## Cynthia (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks. Yes I found a link, which only confuses me more  Can I ask what you use for printer and transfer paper? Comments on what you like/don't like about them? Thanks. Trying to figure out what new printers I should be is confusing, as I don;t want to make another costly mistake.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

They came out with the workforces (Epsons) since I bought up a bunch of C120's (<-- what I use) so I do not use one of those myself. I have not seen any poo-poo'ing of them around, but haven't read those threads as much lately.

If you search "workforce" in the search box, the threads on those printers will come up. I see people talking about the refill carts and CIS's, so they are out there (the threads) and people are using them. I also use an Epson 1400 (much less volume than the pigment printers I've used by epson, models would include c88+, cx9400, c120)... but for me, personally, the Claria holds up nicely.

I give a ton of credit to the paper JPSS (jetpro sofstretch). I think it is the reason I love my shirts so much. 

As far has inkjet heat transfer goes, I really like the JPSS, the Epson 1400, or c120, c88+, cx9400, Gildans 50/50 ultra blend, jerzees (29) 5050 Heavyweight tees, and less so the Hanes Beefy tees. That's personal opinions there, and the fact that I don't use a cutter to cut the designs.

The very heavy Hanes shows the window more than the Gildans and Gildans shows the window more than Jerzees... for me. 

Hope that helps.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

I got my press, i love it!
does the Epson WF 1400 print 14x17?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> I got my press, i love it!


Awesome! Congrats! 



> does the Epson WF 1400 print 14x17?


Go to Epson - Exceed Your Vision and click north america and then search that model (WF?? = workforce?? in the 1400?? ) ... the printer will come up on the website and in the specs they will tell you all the sizes the printers will print.

Epson is one of THE BEST sites for how they list out the info. You can easily find it, and it is good to go there to know about your printer specs anyway. Good luck!!


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

it says it uses claria ink....does that mean claria pigment ink?
also, how much did you pay for it?did you get it refurbd?


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Claria is a water resistant hybrid dye ink, not pigment. It is a cross between dye ink (which photographers are said to prefer for the way it goes onto photo paper compared to pigment) but it is not pigment ink which is very water resistant (which has it's benefits for photographers). 

Claria is Epson's attempt to offer them the best of both worlds. We are using ink intended for them, the photographers. It just happens to work great for us, too. 

That said, here's the issues with the inks:

Pigment: Best all around ink there is for this process hands down. UNLESS, you use Durabrite and are one of the unlucky ones that see "colorshifting" when heat pressing. The colors change from what was printed when doing the transfer. A search on "colorshifting" deals with that and the solutions.

Claria: Many, not all, but many have had a fine time and great success with Claria. No issues, love it, but there are those who do not agree bc of their bad experiences. The same could be said about "Durabrite Ink'' but not pigment ink as a whole. 

Regular photographic dye ink, like the dye ink in my Canon pixma: Fades over time, but not with JPSS. Myself, along with others who have ventured here with JPSS, have no problems. I've posted those pictures where I've even bleached the JPSS shirts with dye ink. Pictures speak a thousand words. But try that with other papers and it won't work... not until someone makes something else like JPSS, which I have no heard is out there yet. 

Hope that helps! 

And Tristan, you can always "search" these names (Claria, 1400, pigment) and many threads with this same information will return for you. They are all there... I've seen or been in a lot of them, so if someone doesn't get back to you right away, that's a great way to get a leg up on finding some info in the meantime.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tang3 said:


> also, how much did you pay for it?did you get it refurbd?


I got mine for $143 shipped, and yep, its a refurb... no issues... love it.


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## tang3 (Feb 28, 2010)

GREAT, i didnt know the CANON PIXMAS work. i have a brand new one in my garage.


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