# Trouble sewing 3D Puff Cap Design



## HeartlandEmb (Apr 18, 2014)

I have ran 3D puff designs on hats in the past, in fact, just 2 or 3 weeks ago and had NO problems what so ever. I am running on the same machine (Tajima 6 head), using the same needles (75/11), the same size foam (2 layers of 3mm), ect. The thread is breaking CONSTANTLY on the puff. It runs fine on the outline stitches that run first but as soon as I put the foam down I have nothing but trouble. When the thread's not breaking, it's sewing but the top thread and bobbin are not "grabbing" each other. I have tried loosening my top thread. The one run that I finally did get through after HOURS, the tension on the back looks great. All 6 heads are having issues also, not just 1 or 2. The design is digitized for puff, sews from the middle out, ect. Any advice on how to get the thread breaks/missing areas to not happen??? 

I have pictures & the sew file to post, but this is my first post and I can't figure out how to attach them :s


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## RickyJ702 (Jul 23, 2012)

could be how it's digitized. outline has to be double sized. if the puff lays where the outline strikes are you could get a lot of thread breaks. another factor is the thread your using. madeira's Polyneon or floriani thread is the only ones I use for 3d puff. make sure your using embroidery foam versus project foam.


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## oldstunt (Mar 22, 2008)

1) Is it the same style cap, if the cap has a higher crown you maybe getting a lot more flagging.
2) It could be the digitizing, try it on flats once to see if you have the same issue.
3) Try a slower speed, loosen the thread and bobbin tension 6mm of foam is a longer reach for a tight thread.


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## HeartlandEmb (Apr 18, 2014)

I have ran it flat and it stitches out perfect! No thread breaks, no missing, ect. I've tried it on various styles of hats and the same problem on all. I ran it on some randoms I had on had and the customer and the issues occurred on all of them  I am running it as slow as my machine will go, 250 spm.


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## aimagedesign (Sep 2, 2009)

So, it sounds like the issue is with caps and/ or the cap frame. Have you tried just a single layer of foam? Have you tried a silicone spray on the thread/ needles?
Did a setting on the machine get inadvertently changed?
Some machines have a different setting for flats, tubular and caps. 

I just went through a similar situation running New Era caps.
If the job wasn't for a very important client and their customer I might have thrown the towel in!


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## HeartlandEmb (Apr 18, 2014)

I've ordered different sizes of needles, different thicknesses of puff, tried craft foam and embroidery foam, slowed the speed way down, sped it up, tried the thread in different positions on the machines, tried backing/no backing/2 pieces of backing on the back of the caps, ect, ect. I have 6 hats done (out of 200!) that look decent and have spent hours on them, researching, ordering, testing, posting on forums, ect. The customer is wanting these and I am having a heck of a time getting even one done. The outline stitches just fine and I've ran the entire design flat and it runs smoothly. I just ran 15 other caps 3d puff embroidery designs yesterday for a different order and had minimal issues so I don't know what the deal is...so it HAS to be something with the cap. But my settings must be right, we're hooping them right, ect.

I don't know what to do!?!?!?!?!?!


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## aimagedesign (Sep 2, 2009)

If you are using a multi-head, turn half of the heads off. 
Use those that have given less trouble. 

Have you tried silicone spray??

I feel for you. Been here myself.


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