# sewing poly twill



## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I was wondering about cutting Poly Twill with my vinyl cutter and then sewing them onto jerseys with my embroidery machine. Can someone give me there run down on how they go about it. I use CorelDraw and have a Pr 650e with a GCC cutter.


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## aimagedesign (Sep 2, 2009)

I use DRAWings. It uses Corel Draw in combination with Wings Digitizing.
So, i'm able to create the cut file (corel draw) then use the same vector file to create a sew file.

Do you have Digitizing software?

A free option (i think its still free) is Stitch ERA Universal. It will use a vector file for creating stitch files.

When cutting i use a 60deg. Clean Cut Blade. I have a Graphtec..., I'm not familiar with the GCC.

Let me know if you need more info on he steps i use in the process.


Peter


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

Here's a writeup I did a few years ago, at the time we were using Twill Stitch Pro...

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t49431.html

Now I do everything in Embroidery Office but the process is basically the same.

We're doing even crazier stuff now, cutting twill and cotton fabric on the GX-24 and either embroidering a satin stitch edge or sewing the edges with a zig zag on a sewing machine... These have not been sewn yet but you get the idea...












aimagedesign said:


> A free option (i think its still free) is Stitch ERA Universal. It will use a vector file for creating stitch files.


No longer free, they started charging for it (I think) effective 12/15?


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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I do have digitizing software called Pe-Next. I will tell you how I do it. I make my name in CorelDraw. Then I send to the vinyl cutter and cut the poly twill. I then export the same image as a JPEG. I then open the Jpeg in my digitizing software. I use the same font and duplicate the name. Then I do the applique wizard and make the lay down stitch, then the tack down stitch and the final stitch which is the satin or stitch. My tack down stitch never hits the poly twill just right. It either hits on edge and just misses the material. I guess I am not do it just right. My tack down stitch should be to the inside a little bit. I don't know if everyone uses CorelDraw then there digitizing software second.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

Wilcom ES is the best for this as it is bundled with CorelDraw.

You would start off in corel and make the name in Corel select it and click the Applique button.

You have the cutline for the cutter and all the stitches for the machine, It dead easy.

Once back in wilcom you can alter the tack down and stitch settings.


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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

What is Wilcom ES. Do I have to buy it.


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## philipfirth83 (Aug 17, 2012)

It is "Wilcom Embroidery Studio". Yes you have to buy it.

There are 3 levels, It not cheap but well worth the money.

I've just made a quick video to show you how its done.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjmOA0Xu7uk&feature=youtu.be[/media]


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

I use an offset of .02 or .04 for the tackdown providing it will still be underneath the satin stitch. Not sure that's an option in PE-Next, I have PE-Design but never used it for applique work. Your other alternative would be to just code up a running stitch just inside the outer edges of the lettering.


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## spanky1.2 (Sep 29, 2010)

I thought I could give my name a .01 contour and send that to the cutter and use the other for the embroidery machine. Then my tack down stitch would hit the cut poly twill. I am sure that is not how you are suppose to do it though.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

For tack down use a zig zag style stitch to get it down and then you can finish with a satin stitch.


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## 23putts (Nov 15, 2007)

tfalk said:


> Here's a writeup I did a few years ago, at the time we were using Twill Stitch Pro...
> 
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t49431.html
> 
> ...


How are you cutting cotton on the GX24? Does it have a backing like the PSA Twill? If so, where do you buy it?


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## tfalk (Apr 3, 2008)

23putts said:


> How are you cutting cotton on the GX24? Does it have a backing like the PSA Twill? If so, where do you buy it?


A LOT of experimentation to find a way, but it can be done. The trick is finding the right combination of force, speed and offset and the right blade. I'm using Heat N Bond Ultra hold on the back of the fabric, then put it on a carrier like TTD mask. The Sigmas in the image above were not cut on the GX-24, they were cut using a die cutter. We did the same concept, twill background, cotton foreground for some other shirts that we cut both on the GX24, here's a sample we made up for a school music program. The fabric cut edges are not as precise as those cut with the die cutter but they work for small volumes. The biggest issue with the die cutter is the dies get EXPENSIVE after a while.










I'm toying with buying a Silhouette Cameo for cutting fabric, all depends on how many of these we get interest in.


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## 4 the Team (May 31, 2013)

I cut everything with a laser engraver.


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

laser is the way to go. we will be looking at those at the show in long beach and la


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## logoadvantage (Nov 16, 2009)

Lazer is great but more expensive than Ioline. I think they both have a place in the market but the one big plus to Ioline is that it will create the embroidery file for you from vector graphics or you can use a digitized file and it can cut from the placement stitch from that file. So it works from Graphics or Embroidery Files either way where on the Lazers you have to digitize the files and I have not seen any of the Auto Digitizing tools in any of the programs handle applique as well as Ioline does. One big plus on the Lazer is you can use Permanent Twill and you do not even have to sew it down you could just heat press however I think the sewn down look is what most people prefer. Lots of options ! Cutting on my sign cutters is OK but only for single layer designs which takes alot longer to place because you have to have a placement stitch then for each layer where on Ioline or Lazer you can kiss cut and keep everything all together. 
Cheapest way to get started is roll feed cutters (Roland or Graphtec) but this has lots of limitations
Best Value is Ioline which includes software and does a good job and allows for Kiss Cutting
Highest End is Lazer but they do not have software that can create files for embroidery so you have to digitize them and auto digitizing for applique simply does not work that great, however the machine can also be used to do other things to generate income on top of the applique work.
Every shop will be different as to where they fall into the above options


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