# squeegee durometer



## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

Can someone explain the what is the purpose of the different squeegee durometers? 

what is best used for water based inks?

plastisol?

thanks in advance


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## mrvixx (Jan 13, 2009)

Soft squeegee allows more ink to go through the screen, a hard durometer allows less.


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

which is best? for more to go thru or less? 

also maybe u can help out, but we been making just one color tees and we noticed that when u wash it, the ink chips off, im not really sure whats the durometer of our squeegee cause we barely started and we only have one.

so my question is, how do avoid having that problem of ink chipping off?. is it cause the layer is too thick?


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## mrvixx (Jan 13, 2009)

your problem is undercuring.


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

how do i solve this problem? 

how long do i cure for?

anyone please.


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## Cloak (Dec 17, 2008)

Cure until the ink gets to 320F or better. You might also be putting too much ink down.

Get a laser/ir thermometer (they have some cheap ones at harbor freight that work fine) and point it to your ink while under the dryer.

That begs the question, how do you cure your shirts?


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

i have that heater that swings over the shirts.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

IntlDopeKids said:


> i have that heater that swings over the shirts.


it sounds like you are using your flash cure unit to try and cure the shirts, is that correct?


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

yea. i just started out. and i see that to fully dry the shirts you use an oven. 

but i cannot afford that at the moment. so thats all i have for now.


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## red514 (Jul 21, 2009)

IntlDopeKids said:


> yea. i just started out. and i see that to fully dry the shirts you use an oven.
> 
> but i cannot afford that at the moment. so thats all i have for now.


i understand that. hopefully someone that has had success with curing ink without an oven can chime in. Not sure but maybe a heat press can help finalize the curing after you've flash cured it. (maybe you wont need to flash cure before heat pressing)


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## tdunham (May 13, 2009)

There are many, many small shops out there that use a flash cure instead of a conveyor over. It isn't the best or most efficient way to print, but it works. Cloak's suggestion of getting a IR temp gun is the best solution for you.

You should read the temperature in all four corners of the print with the temp gun to ensure the proper temperature. More often than not, the flash cure is not parallel with the garment so it will heat unevenly. Inexpensive flashes that are only a coil in a box will also have hot and cold areas that will cause undercuring spots on the garment. You can overcome those issues by using an IR temp gun to ensure your ink deposit has reached the proper temperature. If the garment scorches before the ink deposit reaches the necessary temp, increase the distance between the flash and the substrate.


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

very informative. thank you very much. ill go and buy that IR gun.

thnks evryone.


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I would like too know if heat press would work to curing ink.


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## out da box (May 1, 2007)

A flash dryer will cure plastisol in time. My pop printed and sold tens of thousands of tees on an old 4 color manual and a black body flash.


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## IntlDopeKids (Jul 8, 2009)

nice. at what temp will the ink be good at?

and for an underbase what a good temperature to stop curing.


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## BillyV (May 8, 2009)

I have made thousands of shirts with a flash only, just get a laser temp reader and make sure every shirt cures past 320 and you will be good to go. 

I use a separate small table as a drying station. 
With this I find that on multi-color jobs that by the time I load the shirt, print all colors the shirt is cured. 
I average between 60-75 shirts an hour using this method.


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## jkewl99 (Feb 9, 2012)

I also cure with a flash dryer, make sure my shirt face hits 320 then off to a gas laundry dryer. I do my lot of shirts this way so they press out then I fold and box. Not sure if anyone else has used a laundry dryer but works for me.


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## Jaycain (Apr 14, 2013)

*60 durometer* squeegees are the softest available, and are used for more delicate printing. A softer blade flexes more than a hard blade, and works best with thinner inks. 60 durometer squeegees also are great for high density printing since they allow a larger amount of ink to roll through the stencil.

*70 durometer* squeegees are a medium hardness, and are the most commonly used. A 70 durometer squeegee blade works well with almost any screen printing application, and is a great starter option for the beginning screen printer.

*80 durometer* squeegees are very stiff and are great for more intricate print jobs. 80 durometer screen printing squeegees are great for printing with thicker screen printing inks such as whites and other opaque plastisols.

*90 durometer* squeegees are the stiffest available and are commonly used for four color process screen printing.


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