# How Imageclip for inkjet test



## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I got a hold of some samples of Imageclip for inkjet from Mike.

The attachments are:

Mask - which has part of the image stuck to it as indicated by red circle.
Transfer paper - which has a lot of ink stay with it.
Strip of green cloth
Strip of blue cloth
The Tshirt - printed on 100% cotton, BeefyT, ash
Strip of red cloth
Strip of yellow cloth printed with light pink
Strip of yellow cloth printed with red
The rest of the strips are printed with dark ink

I wrote a tutorial PDF file for making the mask in Corel. I tried to upload it but it did not stay when I submitted the post. Let me know if anybody is interested with the tutorial.

All the strips were printed with drop shadow. I had them very light so it does not show very well but they are visible in real life. Some have clipped print due to mis-registration. If you notice what look like polymer under the text it is not. It is actually the drop shadow.

Surprisingly the black toner did not transfer to the transfer paper.

I only have 4 samples and I ruined one. I have one left. I am going to try printing with gradient image. I will also use the Imageclip laser red sheet to make the mask. May be it will get rid of part of the image staying with the mask and avoid tiny voids on the print.

I am really amazed how the transfer was weeded considering the intricate shape of the image. The image was not clipped because I made allowances for the registration error. I used Corel to make the mask for the tshirt. I used Word to make a mask for the strips so it was hard to match with the image. Registration allowance can not be done with Word. A table light will help in matching mask and image with mask made in Word.That is why some are clipped. It is doable to add allowance as well as adding registration marks with Adobe product such as Photoshop and Photoshop Elements.

The prints have very soft hand compared to the laser version.

The shirt and strips are not washed yet.

Let me know if anybody interested in how to make mask in word and adobe.


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Thanks. Can't wait for the wash tests. What ink are you using?


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## tshirtsupplies (Aug 4, 2008)

Luis,

Thanks for posting the findings. I have to say, you did a great job! If you think of anything else that can improve the paper, please share and we will pass it along to the developers.

Have a great New Year!

Regards,
Mike


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

Lnfortun said:


> I got a hold of some samples of Imageclip for inkjet from Mike.
> 
> The attachments are:
> 
> ...


 Nice job Luis. Guess Mike beat me to the samples for you. This is great. Lou


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

tshirtsupplies said:


> Luis,
> 
> Thanks for posting the findings. I have to say, you did a great job! If you think of anything else that can improve the paper, please share and we will pass it along to the developers.
> 
> ...


Mike,

The things I have noticed are:

- The polymer from the transfer does not release of the backing unlike JPSS. 

- What little amount of polymer left is taking some of the ink with it. Again JPSS when cold peeled virtually releases all the polymer and very little ink is left if any on the carrier paper.

- Some of the polymer of the image are stuck (little pits) on the Mask and leaves tiny holes on the print.

What I was going to try if I have the luxury of more samples free or purchased is try using the red sheet of the laser version as the mask media. I have tried it with just regular inkjet transfer and no part of the image polymers were stuck to it. The only problem I encountered using regular inkjet is the polymer does not totally release with the mask in the first pressing, which Imageclip for inkjet does a pretty good job.

Maybe lowering the temp in the second pressing with shorter dwell time, the polymer will release easier, when cold peeled then press it again with the same temp covered with parchment/teflon with longer dwell time to finally seal the polymer into the fabric.

If I may suggest for you to pass it on to the manufacturer to make the transfer a two part system like the laser version only the red sheet becomes the mask instead of the other way around.

Based on the test I did with light pink color I am confident that it will solve the light/photo/gradient color design limitation that the laser version have.

Of course I am thinking out loud. What I have said and suggested are pure speculation until I can do some more test.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

splathead said:


> Thanks. Can't wait for the wash tests. What ink are you using?


I used inkjetcarts.us compatible pigment inks.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Nice job, Luis, and thank you!!! 

Mike also beat me to get you the samples! (So sorry!) But, I can print an image with Durabrite for you to try that ink with. Will that make up for my procrastination?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Nice job, Luis, and thank you!!!
> 
> Mike also beat me to get you the samples! (So sorry!) But, I can print an image with Durabrite for you to try that ink with. Will that make up for my procrastination?


No problem. That would be nice. Actually I was holding off a bit longer hoping if I kept quiet I would be getting more sample to play with . That's what I get for being greedy . You know the more the merrier.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I just uploaded the tutorial at MediaFire.com.

Press and Hold Ctrl key to avoid pop ups before clicking on the the link.

CorelDraw Mask.pdf

Please let me know what you think.


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## ino (Jan 23, 2007)

The more I read the more I learn how little I know.
Thanks Louis.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lnfortun said:


> I just uploaded the tutorial at MediaFire.com.
> 
> Press and Hold Ctrl key to avoid pop ups before clicking on the the link.
> 
> ...


Hi Luis, 

I looked at the file, 15 pages, wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to write that out and post that! 

I am a complete newbie at Corel, so I will try to follow it. I'd like to send you the inkjet part of the Imageclip done with Durabrite, so can I use that image in that tutorial that you posted? 

Even if I can't accomplish the mask part, would you be able to do that on your side if I did the dragon in Durabrite?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Hi Luis,
> 
> I looked at the file, 15 pages, wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to write that out and post that!
> 
> ...


Sure! Make sure you send me the image file that you use to print the image. I included my email address in the turorial. I can scan the image but it is best to have the original. The mask will be more accurate.

Better yet I can make the mask for you. That way you can try pressing it yourself.

You have my address right?


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## sunnydayz (Jun 22, 2007)

Very good tutorial Luis  I am thinking of trying this paper since I wont be printing with my dtg for awhile, as I recover from surgery that I am having next week. How well do you think this holds up? Is it softer then a regular transfer paper feel? I really like the fact that it doesnt have any polymer outside the image. Have you done wash tests yet? If so how has it held up so far? Thanks so much for the info


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

sunnydayz said:


> Very good tutorial Luis  I am thinking of trying this paper since I wont be printing with my dtg for awhile, as I recover from surgery that I am having next week. How well do you think this holds up? Is it softer then a regular transfer paper feel? I really like the fact that it doesnt have any polymer outside the image. Have you done wash tests yet? If so how has it held up so far? Thanks so much for the info


Hi sunny,

Good luck with the surgery.

The print is softer than the laser version and the laser version to me is very soft. It is thinner and softer than JPSS cold peel. I have not washed any of them yet. It will be sometime this week. Comparatively speaking between the laser and inkjet version I feel the IC IJ will hold up just as good as IC laser. IC laser holds up very will. I have shirts that were washed more than 20 times and still look as good as the day they were pressed. Hopefully IC IJ does not bleed or fade. Badalou had done wash test on a sample print from Neenah and the result was positive.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lnfortun said:


> Sure! Make sure you send me the image file that you use to print the image. I included my email address in the turorial. I can scan the image but it is best to have the original. The mask will be more accurate.
> 
> Better yet I can make the mask for you. That way you can try pressing it yourself.
> 
> You have my address right?


I do have your address. I will try to print out the image from the corel tutorial. (Can I do that?)

Then I will send it priority to you to press so you can compare with the others first hand.

I have an HP4 (laserjet), so I am guessing I can make a mask with that printer, I think we talked about that before, right? 

I'd just like to try to get the Durabrite printed paper into your hands. It'd be good to hear a first hand comparison by you when you wash the others as well. 




Lnfortun said:


> Actually I was holding off a bit longer hoping if I kept quiet I would be getting more sample to play with .


I'd send you more of the sample papers, but I don't really have to now. The paper is listed for sale now. At least one supplier has listed it, and I expect others will follow soon. 

If you want more paper, Luis, you can place an order with Tshirtsupplies.com. They have sample packs for anyone looking to give the paper a whirl.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Kelly,


The tutorial has the printing steps.

I don't see any reason why the HP4 will not work. Make sure you select the proper printer for what you are printing and change the orientation. Mirrored for the inkjet(image) and normal for the Mask(laser). Print the mask first so you only change the print dialog box prepress setting, after the mask is printed, to mirror the image. That way you don't have to go back and forth in the prepress setting.

BTW some image has the transparent background when it opens in PhotoPaint. So instead of clicking on the white background with the magic wand you need to click on the transparent background (checkerboard pattern). Make sure you select the rest of the background by using the Similar option in the Mask Outline of the Mask drop down menu.

I bought IC IJ from TSS last night. In the event that you are going to use IC IJ for your end product, Mike is making a wish list. He is asking customers to send a request for 8.5 X 14. He is going to bring up the interest for that size to Neenah.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Maybe it's easier if I mail you my C88 with Durabrite, and give you a pre-paid return box to send it back in. 

JK, (I think!) I will try to print this out. It may look more intimidating than it is, but I am a certified chicken when it comes to new stuff. Things are back to normal around here, and I should (I say that with hope) have some free time to play with this. If nothing else, I will bring my neighbor here who knows Corel already to help me. Thanks so much for all the info, Luis, I appreciate it so much.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Sorry my teleporter is down right now. Where is Scottie anyway? He is never around when I try to beam up something.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Thanks for this great thread Luis!
I am re-reading it again!!!
LOL
My 39.8333333 year old brain forgets very easily.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> I just uploaded the tutorial at MediaFire.com.
> 
> Press and Hold Ctrl key to avoid pop ups before clicking on the the link.
> 
> ...


AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME PDF Luis!!!!!!!!

Awesome pictures and instructions!!!!!!

*Oh oh oh ...can you make one like this for "contour cutting"!!!!!!!!! please*


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME PDF Luis!!!!!!!!
> 
> Awesome pictures and instructions!!!!!!
> 
> *Oh oh oh ...can you make one like this for "contour cutting"!!!!!!!!! please*


One coming up.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)




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## C3Online (Oct 17, 2007)

Luis, I am new to this, so I was wondering if this was a method you were using (with the masking), to put the image on a black or dark colored t-shirt, please get back to me thanks!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

C3Online said:


> Luis, I am new to this, so I was wondering if this was a method you were using (with the masking), to put the image on a black or dark colored t-shirt, please get back to me thanks!


The tutorial is made for making a mask for Imageclip for inkjet to weed out the polymer around the image. Both Imageclip for inkjet and laser can only be used for light colored fabric. To use them for dark you need to use opaque material. I use Airwaves Inc. fabric opaque material for that purpose. However, the opaque needs to be trimmed by hand.

The mask can be traced also in CorelDraw to use it for contour cutting with vinyl plotter/cutter.

I am working on another tutorial for contour cutting.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I have another picture to share. This one has photos that is nearly impossible to do with Imageclip for laser. It took some trial and error but the result was rewarding. As usual the factory instruction to me is a guideline and has to be tweaked for the users equipment. I have to resort to the process that I used for Imageclip for laser to finally get a good result when the mask and image are pressed to weed out the polymer.

I have not washed any of them yet though.


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## QC_Todd (Feb 19, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> I have another picture to share. This one has photos that is nearly impossible to do with Imageclip for laser. It took some trial and error but the result was rewarding. As usual the factory instruction to me is a guideline and has to be tweaked for the users equipment. I have to resort to the process that I used for Imageclip for laser to finally get a good result when the mask and image are pressed to weed out the polymer.
> 
> I have not washed any of them yet though.
> 
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7677&d=1231623245



in getting this when i click on the link

Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

QC_Todd said:


> in getting this when i click on the link
> 
> Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator


I just clicked it and it was there.

Here is the attachment again. Sorry about that.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

What a beautiful bunch of kids, Luis!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> What a beautiful bunch of kids, Luis!


Thanks Kelly. Notice the print? It is clean as whistle. I will leave it at that.


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## Texas Slick (Oct 30, 2008)

Howdy, Y'all
Just a question about Imageclip and masks. When doing the mask as per the tutorials, do you have to cut the mask, or just align it and press?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Texas Slick said:


> Howdy, Y'all
> Just a question about Imageclip and masks. When doing the mask as per the tutorials, do you have to cut the mask, or just align it and press?


You don't have to cut the mask. Just align it as close as you can to the image facing against each other. Remember to print mirrored image and normal for the mask.

The mask will only take the polymer up to where the black toner is printed. You have to trim the edges of the transfer where the polymer is left after peeling the papers. Also if you have the registration marks you need to cut them off before pressing the transfer on the shirt.


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## Texas Slick (Oct 30, 2008)

Thanks, Luis
So, you press the mask and transfer together, peel apart, then press transfer onto shirt, correct. Do you print the mask on regualr paper, or the Imageclip? Sorry for the newbie questions, but I'm researching getting into transfers. I been screenprinting for 19 years and have 2 retail oulets and people are killing me for this type of production and I tired of sending them to someone else.
Thanks again


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

Texas Slick said:


> Thanks, Luis
> So, you press the mask and transfer together, peel apart, then press transfer onto shirt, correct. Do you print the mask on regualr paper, or the Imageclip



Here are the manufacturers instructions

[media]http://www.tshirtsupplies.com/docs/ImageClipInkJet_v1.1.1.pdf[/media]


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## Texas Slick (Oct 30, 2008)

Thanks , Luis I appreciate it.


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## tshirtsupplies (Aug 4, 2008)

Hello All,

Just something I noticed while doing my final Christmas returns. I went to Bed, Bath and Beyond and noticed they had a few promotional (meaning averts for beer brands and such) light boxes on clearnace. I picked one up for < $19...and all I had to do was unscrew 4 screws, remove the advert and I had a relatively affordable light box for ImageClip for InkJet. Additional Bonus...it fits 11x17.

Luis, again, thanks for the infomative posts...of course, we will be adding the product suggestions for future releases.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Maybe the caffeine hasn't kicked in yet... but I don't get it. What kind of box is this, Mike?  Is it a lightweight box, or a box that has lighting. I know that may sound ridiculous, but this is not my first time doing that either!! 

So for anyone else who might not get it, I'll be the guineapig to step out and say...
can you please explain this one little step further... cause I don't understand.

Thank you so much!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

tshirtsupplies said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Just something I noticed while doing my final Christmas returns. I went to Bed, Bath and Beyond and noticed they had a few promotional (meaning averts for beer brands and such) light boxes on clearnace. I picked one up for < $19...and all I had to do was unscrew 4 screws, remove the advert and I had a relatively affordable light box for ImageClip for InkJet. Additional Bonus...it fits 11x17.
> 
> Luis, again, thanks for the infomative posts...of course, we will be adding the product suggestions for future releases.


Mike,

Just to let you know it took some trial and error to get the photo to work. I wasted most of the sample that came with my order and a couple more of mine when doing photo using the factory instruction. The pits/holes were worse than the first pressing I did with the first batch of samples(draconian and texts).

I modified the pressing instruction on first pressing. I pressed the two papers medium pressure for 6 seconds on top of silicon pad to keep them temporarily attached and not move. I then placed the sheets under the silicon pad and pressed for 35 seconds. Peeled cold. The result was acceptable. There was one very small pit/hole which is not showing when pressed on the shirt. I did two shirts with the same result. So I am convinced that a little more tweaking will even help improve the first pressing.

I have been using that process with Imageclip for laser with lesser dwell time and peel hot to minimize polymer specks in open space around the image.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Maybe the caffeine hasn't kicked in yet... but I don't get it. What kind of box is this, Mike?  Is it a lightweight box, or a box that has lighting. I know that may sound ridiculous, but this is not my first time doing that either!!
> 
> So for anyone else who might not get it, I'll be the guineapig to step out and say...
> can you please explain this one little step further... cause I don't understand.
> ...


 
light box - a commercially available, electrically-powered instrument that provides artificial light; a treatment option for patients with Seasonal Affective........no,,,,,thats not it.

light box - A slim-profile cabinet with internal lighting, used to backlight translucent graphic displays.
or
In photography, a lightbox has several applications. One is a container with several lightbulbs and a pane of frosted glass on the top
or
box of fluorescent tubes balanced for white light and covered with translucent glass or plastic. Used for viewing, registering or correcting film
or
light box - Device used to view glass colors for selection; to trace patterns, or for cutting glass 
and the list goes on....

I use mine for tracing....


http://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sew...d=123620&fp=F&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=11085756

http://www.amazon.com/Porta-Trace-1...7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231961969&sr=8-5


BUT....mike's version is MUCH more cost effective!!!!!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks, Ashamutt... why would Mike need a lightbox for Imageclip for Inkjet - if it is a box with "lights" in it, as opposed to a lightweight box (that weighs little bit)? haha. Still wondering what the purpose is... any idea or help for me?


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## transfer fun (Aug 17, 2006)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thanks, Ashamutt... why would Mike need a lightbox for Imageclip for Inkjet - if it is a box with "lights" in it, as opposed to a lightweight box (that weighs little bit)? haha. Still wondering what the purpose is... any idea or help for me?


The light box would aid in aligning the mask and transfer sheet together. It would help provide some illumination to make sure that your image and mask are spot on with your alignment of the two sheets....I think....right?


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

...you are correct sir!!!


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Oh, okay. Thank you. Do you know what we use to align things like that now? The glass french doors. The sunlight streams thru there and I line things up against the glass. 

But now I understand *why* someone would need a lightbox when using Imageclip for Inkjet. 

*coughcough* There was no handy side note or tip to that fact in the instructions. 

Thank you, everyone, I love to be enlightened. It is a great feeling to learn something, and even better when I find out I can remember it Next Week!  Have a great day! =)


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> Thanks, Ashamutt... why would Mike need a lightbox for Imageclip for Inkjet - if it is a box with "lights" in it, as opposed to a lightweight box (that weighs little bit)? haha. Still wondering what the purpose is... any idea or help for me?


lining up the images and the registration marks..... 

...I am so trying to find the post of yours where you state your NEW IAFD pressing instructions(following Lou's instructions)...... I am trying to link susie to the thread..... I am a little blind I guess.......from staying up til 5am reading on here!!!!!!!! LOL


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> lining up the images and the registration marks.....
> 
> ...I am so trying to find the post of yours where you state your NEW IAFD pressing instructions(following Lou's instructions)...... I am trying to link susie to the thread..... I am a little blind I guess.......from staying up til 5am reading on here!!!!!!!! LOL


never mind...i found it...

https://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t39007-5.html#post432399


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## tshirtsupplies (Aug 4, 2008)

transfer fun...thanks...Kelly, sorry for the confusion...I'll look into an updated instruction sheet, if you think it is warranted.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

tshirtsupplies said:


> transfer fun...thanks...Kelly, sorry for the confusion...I'll look into an updated instruction sheet, if you think it is warranted.


Nah, Mike, I was just kidding with you! 

Seems like everyone else got it but me anyway. Just a blonde moment!  

If you thinks it worth a mention, by all means, an update would be nice, it is one of those handy tips that folks will figure out soon enough, or learn here.  I've not done anything with a mask, or I might have picked up on what was going on faster. 

It's all good.  Have a great night, and hope you are warm. Our boiler just never quits today.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Here are photos of the result of first wash. No noticeable lose of color with Imageclip for inkjet. Some color loss with JPSS. The transferred Image area of all the shirts were as soft as the rest of the shirt. The transferred images did not crack. All three shirts stretched also.

The first Photo is JPSS pressed on 50/50 grey shirt that I masked with laser paper cut with vinyl cutter. If you look closely around the edges of the image faint trace of polymer is visible.

The second photo is Imageclip inkjet on 50/50 grey.

The third photo is the first Imageclip inkjet transfer I pressed on 100% cotton. The shirt shrunk but the color pretty much stayed the same.

[media]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2Fi4FKuI/AAAAAAAAAsk/8h0eWs9CzUY/s800/JPSS-50-50-Grey.jpg[/media]

*JPSS on 50/50 Grey Masked with laser paper that was cut with vinyl cutter.*

[media]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2Fsxj7pI/AAAAAAAAAsU/ksw02lA1osE/s800/IC-IJ-50-50-Grey.jpg[/media]

*Imageclip Inkjet on 50/50 Grey*

[media]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2FhL6lqI/AAAAAAAAAsc/xE_gbr1wOzo/s800/IC-IJ-100-Grey.jpg[/media]

*Imageclip on 100% Cotton Grey*

Here is a link to making mask with Photoshop: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/PhotoshopMask1.0.pdf?attredirects=0


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## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Thanks Luis...looks like the two step image clip gives good results


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> .........
> The first Photo is JPSS pressed on 50/50 grey shirt that I masked with laser paper cut with vinyl cutter. If you look closely around the edges of the image faint trace of polymer is visible.
> 
> ..........
> *JPSS on 50/50 Grey Masked with laser paper that was cut with vinyl cutter.*


Ok....forgive my ignorance.....
,,,but I do not understand....
"*JPSS on 50/50 Grey Masked with laser paper that was cut with vinyl cutter"*
?????

I do understand your awesome instructions for the Imageclip paper!
(thanks so much!!!!)

....but I did not know that you could "mask" JPPS???
I thought that it just needed to be contour-cut with a cutter/plotter then weeded.....????


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> Ok....forgive my ignorance.....
> ,,,but I do not understand....
> "*JPSS on 50/50 Grey Masked with laser paper that was cut with vinyl cutter"*
> ?????
> ...


Good luck weeding JPSS out without cutting through the transfer paper. I would call it cotton picking especially the intricate shape of the image I used. I tried it once. I did not even get passed the test cut with vinyl cutter. You know how small that cut is. It is a small square with triangle inside it. That was enough for me so weeding JPSS without cutting through the carrier backing is not for me. JPSS does not peel like vinyl. That was my experience and it does not matter what anybody says. The polymer crumbles and does not come off the backing in one whole piece of a section being weeded out.

What I did with the first shirt with JPSS was I contour cut a regular laser printer paper, weeded out the image part, pressed the rest of the paper against the JPSS (printed with the image) for 6 seconds at 225F medium pressure, then pressed JPSS masked with the laser paper for 375F for 30 seconds, peeled cold, finally repressed for 6 seconds and stretched while hot after repressing.

If you look closely in the right side of the photo of the JPSS shirt there is a fine line. I forgot to trim the JPSS part that was overhanging the laser paper.

BTW speaking of crumbling to pieces Imageclip for inkjet is not an exception. It is very delicate. It should be handled carefully. I scratched a couple of transfer with my finger nail.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

ok......now I am really confused??? LOL

Sorry that I am so thick-headed tonight!

When you press the laser print paper to the JPPS...what keeps the JPPS image part from sticking to anything???? teflon? parchment?

My jpss weeded just fine....I guess it did anyway? ....I have never weeded it before so I do not know a normal "weed".LOL....I did cut by hand though......with an x-acto knife.
This is what "pushed" me to learn how to contour cut!

....but I would like to try your process above.....if I can ever understand it!
Did you "invent" this process??? 

And yes, the test square and triangle are VERY tiny!! LOL!!!


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

oh.....another question.... when you say "regular laser printer paper" ....you are just talking about "regular" printer paper...right??
Is there a different printing "paper" for lasers?
(I have been using my regular 92 bright copy & print paper for my laser.....same as I use for my inkjet printers.)

...sorry for all of the Q's Luis.(and everybody)
I am so new to the whole laser & cutter stuff!
(but I'll get there)


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## clayboyrat (Dec 1, 2008)

ashamutt said:


> ...sorry for all of the Q's Luis.(and everybody)
> I am so new to the whole laser & cutter stuff!
> (but I'll get there)


 Am glad your asking them.That way I won't have too.
Kelly I like blonde's.
I myself have never heard of a light box, but kinda knew what he was talking about being I printed news papers at one time. We used a light table that we called the stripping table. No not that kinda of stripping. the kind where you cut one add or story out of a negative and taped another one in its place before burning a offset plate.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> oh.....another question.... when you say "regular laser printer paper" ....you are just talking about "regular" printer paper...right??
> Is there a different printing "paper" for lasers?
> (I have been using my regular 92 bright copy & print paper for my laser.....same as I use for my inkjet printers.)
> 
> ...


Yes there are glossy, premium, card stock, transparency, label, business cards and much more.

I prefer cutting the premium paper because it is thicker and more stable than the 92 bright but 92 will work as well. The Magic Touch BTW recommends premium with WOW 7.1.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> When you press the laser print paper to the JPPS...what keeps the JPPS image part from sticking to anything???? teflon? parchment?
> 
> ....but I would like to try your process above.....if I can ever understand it!
> Did you "invent" this process???


I used a parchment paper. I came up with this process out of desperation of getting rid of the polymer window. Especially the last time when I used JPSS and it turned yellow on me. The process works. BTW I eliminated the contour cut inside the texts and other small areas of the image by welding the cut lines so that only the outer lines are sent to the plotter/cutter. The main thing is not to cut the transfer paper through and not worry about placement when the cut image/mask is removed from the carrier that holds the transfer paper while it is being cut.

The polymer inside the texts did not seem to show or stand out, as you can see in the photo I posted, because those spaces are bordered by something.

You know what I will start a new thread with photos of the process.


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## trj (Jan 31, 2009)

I've been testing some sheets of IJIC as well and have been impressed. The first low heat press is a bit tricky to get the right pressure but it can be found. The other thing is even on the mess up presses of weeding the transfer, you can see the polymer caking and left in places where it didn't take, you can then either trim what I did was use a plastic putty knife or any flat object and scrap away the polymer so it won't be on the final press. I was doing an image that had large clouds and was able to scrap right up to the ink inside the circle of the cloud and wiped it away where I normally would have had to exacto that out or just leave and see the polymer. 

I have been impressed with the wash out as well and have washed one shirt 3 times without turning it inside out and it looks great. no visible color loss and no cracking.

Luis, I to had that spotting problem on my first few peels and I spoke to my rep at Neenah and he said that was because of too much pressure. So I backed it off and it was better, but pressure was not as light as the IC for laser.


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## Crank PG (Apr 13, 2009)

Lnfortun said:


> I just uploaded the tutorial at MediaFire.com.
> 
> Press and Hold Ctrl key to avoid pop ups before clicking on the the link.
> 
> ...


 
Looking forward to trying this paper tonight! I just downloaded your tutorial it seems pretty simple! more simple then trying to print on a inkjet & cut on my stika 8 normal transfer paper let alone sign vinyl! REALLY Not getting good results there! The t-shirt vinyl is GREAT, got the hang of that one! will let you know how I fair with this one! Thanks for posting the tutorial!


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## Crank PG (Apr 13, 2009)

Yes I have adobe & would LOVE to learn how to do the same thing in it, I tried following the Corel instructions but the programs are a little different (surprise) I didn't realiae when I downloaded it it was for corel, I was just so excited to see a tutorial I didn't pay attention  bad me! please pm me if you have it already, you'll be saving my sanity!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Crank PG said:


> Yes I have adobe & would LOVE to learn how to do the same thing in it, I tried following the Corel instructions but the programs are a little different (surprise) I didn't realiae when I downloaded it it was for corel, I was just so excited to see a tutorial I didn't pay attention  bad me! please pm me if you have it already, you'll be saving my sanity!


I have posted the in another thread. Can't remember the thread though. 

Here you go:http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/PhotoshopMask1.0.pdf?attredirects=0


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

trj said:


> I've been testing some sheets of IJIC as well and have been impressed. The first low heat press is a bit tricky to get the right pressure but it can be found. The other thing is even on the mess up presses of weeding the transfer, you can see the polymer caking and left in places where it didn't take, you can then either trim what I did was use a plastic putty knife or any flat object and scrap away the polymer so it won't be on the final press. I was doing an image that had large clouds and was able to scrap right up to the ink inside the circle of the cloud and wiped it away where I normally would have had to exacto that out or just leave and see the polymer.
> 
> I have been impressed with the wash out as well and have washed one shirt 3 times without turning it inside out and it looks great. no visible color loss and no cracking.
> 
> Luis, I to had that spotting problem on my first few peels and I spoke to my rep at Neenah and he said that was because of too much pressure. So I backed it off and it was better, but pressure was not as light as the IC for laser.


Check the temp. It sounds like it is too high. Your temp reading might not be what it the actual temp of the press. It should not cake. Another thing is the ink should be completely dry.


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## kevin parr (Apr 17, 2009)

could i see your pdf tutorial using corel draw please
thanks
kevin


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

kevin parr said:


> could i see your pdf tutorial using corel draw please
> thanks
> kevin


Click on the link below. Then click the highligted Click here under the download line. Wait a few minutes for it to open. You can save it by clicking on the floppy icon.

http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/CorelDrawMask.pdf?attredirects=0


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

I am reposting post #47. Somehow the photos mysteriously diappeared.

Here are photos of the result of first wash. No noticeable lose of color with Imageclip for inkjet. Some color loss with JPSS. The transferred Image area of all the shirts were as soft as the rest of the shirt. The transferred images did not crack. All three shirts stretched also.

The first Photo is JPSS pressed on 50/50 grey shirt that I masked with laser paper cut with vinyl cutter. If you look closely around the edges of the image faint trace of polymer is visible.

The second photo is Imageclip inkjet on 50/50 grey.

The third photo is the first Imageclip inkjet transfer I pressed on 100% cotton. The shirt shrunk but the color pretty much stayed the same.

[media]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2Fi4FKuI/AAAAAAAAAsk/8h0eWs9CzUY/s800/JPSS-50-50-Grey.jpg[/media]
*JPSS on 50/50 Grey Masked with laser paper that was cut with vinyl cutter.*
[media]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2Fsxj7pI/AAAAAAAAAsU/ksw02lA1osE/s800/IC-IJ-50-50-Grey.jpg[/media]
*Imageclip Inkjet on 50/50 Grey*
[media]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FE8T_LCovWw/SXG2FhL6lqI/AAAAAAAAAsc/xE_gbr1wOzo/s800/IC-IJ-100-Grey.jpg[/media]
*Imageclip on 100% Cotton Grey*

Here is a link to making mask with Photoshop: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/PhotoshopMask1.0.pdf?attredirects=0


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

Lnfortun said:


> I got a hold of some samples of Imageclip for inkjet from Mike.
> 
> The attachments are:
> 
> ...


Yes I would like to get your pdf file of the making the mask for imageclip.
I thought image clip did not leave residue around
the transfer?
Im not sure I understand the steps of using the mask?
Do you have a video of you using the mask and 
transfering the inmage to the shirt using the mask.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Lnfortun said:


> I am reposting post #47. Somehow the photos mysteriously diappeared.


They are back. Sometimes the media tags act really funky for some reason. Can't figure out why exactly, but I just went into edit, and the images are still there. I added a space between each, and the photos reappeared.


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

videorov said:


> Yes I would like to get your pdf file of the making the mask for imageclip.
> I thought image clip did not leave residue around
> the transfer?
> Im not sure I understand the steps of using the mask?
> ...


Could you explain the steps you take to cut the mask out on your vinyl cutter please.
My cutter doesn't have the photoeye feature
but I think there is way to do it anyway, just
a little harder.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

videorov said:


> Could you explain the steps you take to cut the mask out on your vinyl cutter please.
> My cutter doesn't have the photoeye feature
> but I think there is way to do it anyway, just
> a little harder.


I don't have a video. Someday maybe.

Sorry I added confusion when I mentioned the vinyl cutter. You don't need to contour cut the mask for Imageclip for inkjet. You need to print a separate negative (Black toner) image, not mirrored, to standard printer paper with laser printer or copier. Print the mirrored image on the Imageclip transfer with inkjet printer. Align the two sheets face to face. Press and peel the two sheets to remove the excess polymer according to the instruction in this link (click on the empty box below): [media]http://neenah.com/technical/pdf/Printing_Instructions/ImageClip9822PO.pdf[/media]

I was having yellowing issue when I used JPSS so I decided to contour cut a mask out of a standard printer paper. I used the mask to cover the unwanted polymer when I pressed the JPSS transfer.

Here is the link to the technique I used: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t75356.html#post448921

The link to the PDF files are posted in this thread but here they are again with extra tutorials to boot. The files are rather large so when you click the word here under *Download Attachment* line on the page after you click on each link below, you have to wait until the pdf file opens. You can save the pdf file by clicking on the floppy icon. If you have a slow connection you will have to wait a little longer.

Mask using CorelDraw: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/CorelDrawMask.pdf?attredirects=0

Mask using Photoshop: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/PhotoshopMask1.0.pdf?attredirects=0

Contour Cutting using CorelDraw & Photopaint: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/CorelDraw_Photopaint_Contour_Cut.pdf?attredirects=0

Contour Cutting using CorelDraw & Photoshop: http://sites.google.com/site/lnfortunspages/Home/CorelDraw_Photoshop_Contour_Cut.pdf?attredirects=0

You can use the contour cut tutorial to cut a standard printer paper to make a mask. To save toner or ink, it is not necessary to print the image or the contour cut line on the standard printer paper when cutting the mask.. However, it is necessary to print the registration marks. You use either laser or inkjet printer. Load the paper(mask) on a carrier sheet. Feed them to the vinly cutter. Send both the registration marks and contour cut line to the cutter. Weed the image part of the paper. Use the outer part to mask the mirror imaged transfer (e.g. JPSS or any transfer paper for lights inkjet or laser transfer). Align the mask against the mirror imaged transfer paper, cover the sheets with parchment paper and press the two sheets for 6 seconds, 225F and very light pressure. Let it cool down then remove the parchment paper. This is to keep the papers from going out of registration when pressed on the shirt. The edges have to be trimmed to remove any overhanging polymer around the transfer. Press the transfer and mask pair on the shirt according to the required setting for the transfer paper. Again this technique is not required for Imageclip for inkjet. This is only for other types of inkjet or laser transfer for lights that leaves polymer around the image.

Let me know if you need more info about the tutorial and the masking technique.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Just uploaded a video tutorial for making a mask for Photoshop to YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3_bYJ4rNZY

It is best viewed in full page mode.


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Lnfortun said:


> Just uploaded a video tutorial for making a mask for Photoshop to YouTube.
> 
> [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3_bYJ4rNZY[/media]
> 
> It is best viewed in full page mode.


Just watched it! AWESOME video Luis!!!!!!!!!

Please tell me that you are going to turn ALL of your wonderful PDF's into awesome videos?!?!?

To me you are a "MHM" !!!!!!


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ashamutt said:


> Just watched it! AWESOME video Luis!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Please tell me that you are going to turn ALL of your wonderful PDF's into awesome videos?!?!?
> 
> To me you are a "MHM" !!!!!!


That was just a dry run with a mixed bag of demo softwares, video splitter, converter, editor and movie maker. That is why it turned out fuzzy. After going through several stages of recoding the resolution became low.

I wanted to see if I can even do it. I was motivated to do one when videorov asked me if I have a video in his post above.


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## bunnywilson (Jul 14, 2009)

ino said:


> The more I read the more I learn how little I know.
> Thanks Louis.


Me too. The results sound wonderful but as I read, the process sounds complicated and maybe as time consuming as cutting. Please someone, tell me that's not the case.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

bunnywilson said:


> Me too. The results sound wonderful but as I read, the process sounds complicated and maybe as time consuming as cutting. Please someone, tell me that's not the case.


The time it will take to trim a shape like the photos I posted could be spent on the first stage of Imageclip for inkjet. Plus if accuracy is needed it can be done with one press and peel and excess polymer is gone. It also keeps the design toghether even though the image is in separate pieces which can be problematic when trimming each piece and pressing them in the right locations.

It is really not complicated. I can make the mask in about 3 to 4 minutes.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

videorov said:


> Could you explain the steps you take to cut the mask out on your vinyl cutter please.
> My cutter doesn't have the photoeye feature
> but I think there is way to do it anyway, just
> a little harder.


If you have CorelDraw I can help you with contour cutting without photo eye. It is not going to be accurate but it will definitely cut around the image and eliminate the burden of manual trimming. I have two cutters one with photo eye and the other without it. I have done contour cutting with both cutters without the aid of the photo eye and it was good enough for light transfers.


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

Who has a good price on a Photoeye cutter when I buy another cutter.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

videorov said:


> Who has a good price on a Photoeye cutter when I buy another cutter.


I thought I got a bargain when I bought miy Craft Robo Pro from Specialty Graphics Supply with 5% off members discount and free shipping.


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## DogPound71 (Jul 7, 2009)

Hi my nickname is EclekticRT. I am interested in your tutorial on how to mask using injet imageclip are we allow to give email address?
Enh... [email protected]
Thanks.


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## Pajo (Jun 9, 2008)

Luis,
I wanted to thank you for your tutorials. I'm decorating for 2 yrs and just about to get into WOW 7.1 & Image Clip. Has mostly been Vinyl and sublimation but it becomes limited as you become more knowledgeable. The forum posts will help immensely.
Cheers,
John


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Pajo said:


> Luis,
> I wanted to thank you for your tutorials. I'm decorating for 2 yrs and just about to get into WOW 7.1 & Image Clip. Has mostly been Vinyl and sublimation but it becomes limited as you become more knowledgeable. The forum posts will help immensely.
> Cheers,
> John


You are more than welcome. Let know if you need further help.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

DogPound71 said:


> Hi my nickname is EclekticRT. I am interested in your tutorial on how to mask using injet imageclip are we allow to give email address?
> Enh... [email protected]
> Thanks.


Did you watch the video? It is easier and faster to follow than the turorial. I have posted the links of the turorials in this thread. Go back further in previous posts and you will see them. I can not send them to you. Both files are too large to attach to email. You should find the link for Photoshop and for CorelDraw. The links are in page 5 of this thread.


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## DogPound71 (Jul 7, 2009)

Lnfortun said:


> Did you watch the video? It is easier and faster to follow than the turorial. I have posted the links of the turorials in this thread. Go back further in previous posts and you will see them. I can not send them to you. Both files are too large to attach to email. You should find the link for Photoshop and for CorelDraw. The links are in page 5 of this thread.


 
Yes I did it did help a lot but for now I think I just stick with JPSS. Thanks


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## hlc (Dec 7, 2009)

can anyone give link where we can buy
IMAGECLIP for inkjet printers, serlf weeding paper?
has it been improved over the time?

thanks


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

This company has some. I bought mine from them. Heat Transfer Paper for Inkjet Printers

I use Maskpro to make my mask.
Mask Pro 4 - onOne Software

I find it easy to use even on real detailed pictures like hair, water, bubbles.


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## hlc (Dec 7, 2009)

videorov said:


> This company has some. I bought mine from them. Heat Transfer Paper for Inkjet Printers
> 
> I use Maskpro to make my mask.
> Mask Pro 4 - onOne Software
> ...


 oh thanks alot ill chek it out


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## ritchie (Dec 11, 2009)

i bought these transfer papers without thoroughly reading the instructions....I don't have a laser printer, did anyone try printing up the negative using an inkjet print instead of a negative using a laser print?


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## videorov (Aug 26, 2007)

I have only used the laser. Brothers makes them
a low prices at staples nowadays.$99
I have a B&W version and use it for this and just
B&W printing and it works great.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ritchie said:


> i bought these transfer papers without thoroughly reading the instructions....I don't have a laser printer, did anyone try printing up the negative using an inkjet print instead of a negative using a laser print?


Inkjet will not work. The alternative is take the inkjet hard copy and have it copied in a laser copier from copy depot like Staples or Office depot etc.


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## ritchie (Dec 11, 2009)

do I have to use a negative for each image I transfer or can I use the same one over and over again?


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

ritchie said:


> do I have to use a negative for each image I transfer or can I use the same one over and over again?


The mask has to be printed positive and the artwork negative. You can not reuse the mask once it is pressed against the transfer paper.

If you are going to print the mask with laser printer you need to print one for each transfer paper.

If you are going to use a copier you need to have multiple copy of the mask for the same artwork if you are going to press a lot of the same design. In other words one mask per transfer paper.


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## ritchie (Dec 11, 2009)

thank you both for your reply


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## LisaMills (Aug 12, 2010)

Lnfortun said:


> Sure! Make sure you send me the image file that you use to print the image. I included my email address in the turorial. I can scan the image but it is best to have the original. The mask will be more accurate.
> 
> Better yet I can make the mask for you. That way you can try pressing it yourself.
> 
> You have my address right?


OK guys, I may sound totally lost, but here goes: What is a mask? Why is it necessary? I'm using JPSS and MagicInks from Alpha Supply Co. We print on an Epson 1400 with six colors. The reason I logged into this thread is that I too am interested in getting rid of the box or window look around the design. 

Another question regarding terminology: What is meant by weeding? I'm guessing that it has something to do with getting rid of something unwanted? but what exactly and how is that done?


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## EnergyJenny (Mar 5, 2010)

LisaMills said:


> OK guys, I may sound totally lost, but here goes: What is a mask? Why is it necessary? I'm using JPSS and MagicInks from Alpha Supply Co. We print on an Epson 1400 with six colors. The reason I logged into this thread is that I too am interested in getting rid of the box or window look around the design.
> 
> Another question regarding terminology: What is meant by weeding? I'm guessing that it has something to do with getting rid of something unwanted? but what exactly and how is that done?


A mask is used to help the shall we call it under lay... find where it is to go. This makes it so that the idem can self weed. Weeding is where the image cuts its self out for you, so you don't have to go in with an e-xacto knife and cut out the little shapes to avoid the polymer window. 

There are some videos on how this process works on youtube just put image clip in and it will pop up. Or Koncert tees and Laser dark. I hope this helps, I was new to all of this in Feb and through youtube and wikipedia I know what the terms are and my boss kind of looks at me as a heat transfer aficionado it is funny how much you can learn with this thing.


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## Ender22 (Mar 17, 2011)

I just tried this paper and I must be doing something very wrong.
I followed the instructions properly but I have 2 issues.
First when I press both papers together they are very hard to peel and some of the black toner from the laser mask transfers to the transfer sheet.
Second, when I transfer the image to the t-shirt it still has the polymer window.

I was under the impression if the 2 pages were hard to peel and some of the black was transfering to the other page then I need to turn down my pressure/temperature/time. during the paper to paper transfer step...

but if the polymer window is still going onto the t-shirt it means it is not fully transfering to the laser mask... which should mean i need to turn up the pressure/temperature/time??

anyone encounter this before or can provide any suggestions??
much appreciated.


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## Ender22 (Mar 17, 2011)

So I just tried this paper and I'm having a strange problem.
When I press at the recommended times some of my lazer toner is transfering to the transfer sheet.... the pages even stuck together a little.

but... even though this happened, the polymer remained on the transfer sheet.

so the laser toner is transfering to the imageclip paper, instead of the imageclip polymer transfering to the laser sheet.

i tried lowering the temperature and time... and they prevented the toner from going onto the transfer sheet... but the polymer still wont go to the laser sheet so its not self weeding...

how can i get the polymer to transfer... if i raise the temperature or time it will just cause the laser toner to transfer again and worse...

thanks to anyone.


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