# F&M Expressions $0.15 transfers Cracking, HELP!



## uniontz

I recently purchased $0.15 each 1 color spot transfers. They are cracking on me, I need help, I just started a t-shirt program with low minimums for a few clients and some already went out the door.

I have a GeoKnight DC16AP - Auto Heapress.
I use the recommended settings from F&M of 300 @ 60psi for 7 secs.

Printing them on Gilden 50/50 t-shirts.

Any advice would be great!

More pressure, More time, More temp?

The cracking was not even after 1 wash this morning. How I found out is I put one through the washer/dryer on "low", it came out cracked and almost looked like the cracked pieces were curling up.

Thanks,

Shawn


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## royster13

Have you checked the temperature with a digital pyrometer?....

Your temperature is too low for that product....Should be 325 F....

I have done 1,000s of these transfers without many problems.....IMO cracking is from over cured transfers....Either when they were made or too much heat / time when applying them....


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## uniontz

royster13 said:


> Have you checked the temperature with a digital pyrometer?....
> 
> Your temperature is too low for that product....Should be 325 F....
> 
> I have done 1,000s of these transfers without many problems.....IMO cracking is from over cured transfers....Either when they were made or too much heat / time when applying them....


I will purchase a pyrometer, I do not own one. GeoKnight has one, should I assume that I should buy theirs or is there a better one to use?

So if I my temp turns out to be correct and 300 is 300, then its possible F&M cured this batch too long? 

I love F & M too, I have used them many times in the past without a problem for 1 color and full color designs. 

I also am in contact with them, waiting this morning on hopefully some pointers from them, but thought it best to try all avenues for answers.


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## greenmachine

Per F&M website, the temperature needs to be 325 degrees.

greenie


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## uniontz

greenmachine said:


> Per F&M website, the temperature needs to be 325 degrees.
> 
> greenie


 
LOL! The little papers that come with each order shrink wrapped inside said press: 300 @ 60psi for 7 secs.

I will try the 325! 

Thanks for that tip!

Shawn


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## drdoct

Always 325. I'm betting they're uncured. Also something to consider. You mentioned you have an air press. I do too, so I usually press for 9 seconds. That allows around 3/4 second each for up and down cycles. I've never actually timed my cycles to come off and go on... but it's not instant. Usually I would expect cracking after 10 washes IF you overcured it. Meaning double or triple pressed it. Right out of the first wash is most always under curing. Crank that temp up to 325 and get a thermometer or even just the test strips.


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## Sign Effectz

drdoct said:


> Usually I would expect cracking after 10 washes IF you overcured it. Meaning double or triple pressed it. Right out of the first wash is most always under curing.


Are you saying cracking can be caused by both over and under curing?



uniontz - Which ink formula did you get? Fashion or Athletic?


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## drdoct

Yes, it's a different type of cracking though. One is big chunk cracking and coming off. That's undercured and after the first wash. The other is very fine cracks, but still adhered to the shirt. After about 10 washes over cured shirts will do that. 

If you did 300 @ 7 seconds then it's under cured most likely. Almost all plastisol cures around 310-325 except the nylon type.


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## EssenceGold

I'm having trouble with my $0.15 transfers as well. In my case I'm having a problem with streaks in my letters (it's white ink). Is this because its too hot or not enough pressure? I'm printing on sweatpants and when I do the pants leg it comes out pretty ok but when I try to print near the thigh area/pocket, i'm having problems. Sometimes the edge of the number seems to be peeling a tad, this is so confusing. 

Also, how can I press polyester without scorching the fabric?? I keep getting a shiny area and the streaks through the letter


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## wedgees

My guess with the issue close to the seam is uneven pressure. The lines in the ink...maybe a problem with the transfer. We have received batches from F&M before that had bad transfers and if you look closely at the transfer before printing you will see the thin areas of ink. 
I hope this helps some.


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## dragontees

uniontz said:


> I recently purchased $0.15 each 1 color spot transfers. They are cracking on me, I need help, I just started a t-shirt program with low minimums for a few clients and some already went out the door.
> 
> I have a GeoKnight DC16AP - Auto Heapress.
> I use the recommended settings from F&M of 300 @ 60psi for 7 secs.
> 
> Printing them on Gilden 50/50 t-shirts.
> 
> Any advice would be great!
> 
> More pressure, More time, More temp?
> 
> The cracking was not even after 1 wash this morning. How I found out is I put one through the washer/dryer on "low", it came out cracked and almost looked like the cracked pieces were curling up.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn


Hello, change the temperature to 350, I think 300 is to low, and with a good heat transfer you don't have to be to perfect there is always a gap to play with, I print them to 340, 350 and 360 and they all give me a good results, same with the time 6, 7, 8 seconds, again you don't have to be that precised. 
Once the design came to off the paper onto the t-shirt and it is there, then basically you already transferred it, that means that your settings are ok, now the other part is the cracking problem...that means they did not put glue on the design, when they printed it, normally they put glue so the design last longer on the t-shirt and prevents from cracking it. They do that to save the glue and time, expecting that you wont notice it, to them it's justify by the price.

Alan
dragontees


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## dragontees

ESSENCEGOLD I saw the pictures that you attached on your post, in the first picture, the problem at the edge is because that part of the design is relatively close to the stitches of the clothing that you are printing on, the part where the stitches go is thick, making it uneven when the plates of the heat press close. The best way to print is leave that area outside of the plate, that means that part of the design it'll be almost at the edge of the plate, risking that you still have the same problem, but that means that your heat press is not even at the edges when it closes, so you won't be able to do that in the future unless you get another heat press. The other option is keep doing it the same way but this time give it more pressure so when it's close it'll be strong enough that will squeeze the part where the stitches are allowing to put the same pressure and heat to the transfer.
In the second picture, as I told UNIONTZ, that is not your fault, you printed right, the design is on the t-shirt as I can see on the picture, the part where you see more black, is because the color of the t-shirt is coming through, that happens when they print, they do it to fast that it does not drop enough ink on the paper, and on top of that they only hit it one time, they suppose to do it twice so the dark color of the t-shirt wont come through, then put glue, again they want to save time, ink and glue, but also that's why is 0.15 c They all have their company policy and their ways of making money, but cheating or selling something that is not good it is not a good way to do business.
I hope, I was of help, if you have any question please send me a message.

Alan
Dragontees


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## shirtnyc

the 15 and 20cent crack.. sort of like when a supermarket sells meat that will expire at midnight a low rate they just want the traffic.. but they do have sports formula thats about 33 cents and is worth the extra few dollars for the piece of mind..... the name is performance.. they have products but their customer re-pore with mom and pops politically correct mean they care less as i was often told that why you on the forum looking for answers.. used the performance single image program they wont tell you its their but you will find it on the site..

the cracks are what they are its a hit or miss basically you get what you pay for 50 bucks for 500 dollar orders im guilty of it too


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## Live2sk888

I've used them for about 8 years now (never used anywhere else for custom transfers) and it's only in the last year that I'm having issues with hem cracking almost right away. This is on the cheap single color transfers as well as the more expensive Spot and Freedom ones (I am not seeing a difference in quality between the different products). I've never had customer service problems with them though, and they have worked with me a number of times on specific shipping arrangements to meet a deadline, etc. I'm just concerned about the quality that seems to have changed. I realize there is a list of vendors that sell these posted on this site but I dread having to go through all of those and wait for samples and then wash them enough times to determine if they will hold up better than the FM ones. Is anyone able to give a recommendation for somewhere else I might try if I need to place a couple orders right now?


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## ericwin

I tested some samples before placing my first order for the $0.15 athletic formula transfers from F&M. My first sample cracked so I called and they put me in touch with their tech support. They gave me some tips fixed my cracking problems:


Make the pressure as high as possible on my manual press (Geo Knight DK20)
Increase the temperature to 350° F
Preheat the t-shirt for 3 to 5 seconds before applying transfer to remove any excess moisture
They mentioned you should be able to see the texture/weave of the shirt after pressing if you did it right.

They also had me repress the test shirt/transfer that cracked and that repaired some of the cracking and stopped additional cracking. I normally do DTG but for this one order the transfers made sense (one color imprint & large quantity) and my client was happy and has already reordered.

Eric


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## bpfohler

ericwin said:


> I tested some samples before placing my first order for the $0.15 athletic formula transfers from F&M. My first sample cracked so I called and they put me in touch with their tech support. They gave me some tips fixed my cracking problems:
> 
> 
> Make the pressure as high as possible on my manual press (Geo Knight DK20)
> Increase the temperature to 350° F
> Preheat the t-shirt for 3 to 5 seconds before applying transfer to remove any excess moisture
> They mentioned you should be able to see the texture/weave of the shirt after pressing if you did it right.
> 
> They also had me repress the test shirt/transfer that cracked and that repaired some of the cracking and stopped additional cracking. I normally do DTG but for this one order the transfers made sense (one color imprint & large quantity) and my client was happy and has already reordered.
> 
> Eric


 Why would I want to press the shirt so hard that the fabric comes through the print? When I screen print I want the ink on top of the shirt, not mashed into the fabric.
We've used F&M several times and until recently never had a problem. Our problem was with artwork and not product quality.


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## ericwin

bpfohler said:


> Why would I want to press the shirt so hard that the fabric comes through the print? When I screen print I want the ink on top of the shirt, not mashed into the fabric.
> We've used F&M several times and until recently never had a problem. Our problem was with artwork and not product quality.


The fabric did not come through the print - the ink is on top of the shirt but I can slightly see the texture of the fabric weave in the print/ink and best of all, the ink doesn't crack when I stretch the shirt.

Anyway, I'm only repeating what their tech support told me and my personal experience as a happy customer. Perhaps the folks who have reported cracking are not using enough heat and/or pressure to apply their transfers.

Eriic


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## thebeast

I am also new to the Transfer side of things. 

In your opinions. How much would one pay on average for a service similar to the F&M $0.15 / $0.25 Transfer. Factoring the highest setup of the 2 options and working with 15 total transfers.

Example:

F&M $0.15 x 15 = $2.25 + $22.00 Setup = Total cost of $24.25 (Roughly $1.61 per)

F&M $0.20 x 15 = $3.00 + $25.00 Setup = Total cost of $28.00 (Roughly $1.86 per)

In other words if this price is too low what should I expect on average from other vendors?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.


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## trexbob

Hi!

I'm also having some problems with FM $.15 transfers :/ They are fine upon pressing, but when I go to wash, i get these odd wrinkles and puckers!! It makes it look like it's paper and the transfer doesn't feel 'soft' like a silk screen. Is it because the transfer is thick that when it gets tumbled during wash it wrinkles from the overlaps? (please refer to images). I have to cool iron it inside out to make it normal, but is this how transfers look after washing?

This is my first time heat transferring, so I wouldn't be surprised that I'm making a stupid mistake :/ The rep had recommended the first time that I re-press at 350 for an additional 10 sec. because I was getting an initial wrinkle from not enough pressure/heat. 

Process:
- HPN™ Black Series™ 15" x 15" Swing Away Heat Press Machine
- 1st press at 325 at 10 sec
- 2nd press (at FM recommendation) at 350 for another 10 sec. because my transfers were coming up (I may not be maxing out on manual pressure because I can't physically press the 'MAX')
- my washer runs hotter :/ so is this a possible heat problem?

thank you for any help you guys can provide! I'm waiting to hear back from rep tomorrow too. I have to say, FM customer service is really great. For all the issues I'm having, they are very responsive and helpful. I just wish I wasn't having these problems T_T

Thank you!


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## EricDeem

Have verified the temperature on the heat press? I would highly recommend getting some temp strips to see how accurate it is.


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## royster13

I have used thousands of these transfers with good results.....That said I would not use them for an imprint that has this large of area of ink....


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## jleampark

royster13 said:


> I have used thousands of these transfers with good results.....That said I would not use them for an imprint that has this large of area of ink....


 I agree. I like them for designs that have a lot of the tee showing through. Large areas of ink feel very heavy with these transfers.

But, with the right design, I love 'em.


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## trexbob

Thank you Dekay317. royster13, and jleampark - I think you guys make some good points. I will temp test the heat press. also, I was realizing yesterday too that these inks might only be good for smaller imprints with a lot of tshirt space between; like letters, smaller images, etc. I think for these larger designs, the thickness of the ink may not be cooperating as nicely as I would wish. But yes, I can see that with the right design, they work very well. Appreciate your feedback!

Does anybody else have any ideas how I can fix this or is this generally what larger areas of heat transfers look like after a wash? thank you!


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## jleampark

trexbob said:


> Does anybody else have any ideas how I can fix this or is this generally what larger areas of heat transfers look like after a wash? thank you!


 I'm no expert but I think this will be a problem with most, if not all, plastisol heat transfers. The ink sits on top of the shirt so wherever the design is, the tee cannot "breathe". Add into the mix that the shirt is no longer stretching the same all throughout the shirt.

I *think* the solution would be to use water-based inks but I don't know if those are available for heat transfers that you or I would buy.

In the meantime, try to open up your design as much as you can. If done right, the shirt color can look like one of the colors in the design.


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## carrabino

I'm new to making T-shirts so my technique is most likely at fault. I have a FreeSub 16x20 heat press and ordered 500 1-color plastisol transfers from FM - the 15/20 cent offer. I tried my first 10-15 shirts a few days ago. Pressed a few for myself and just washed my first shirt. The plastisol cracked. I suspect i didn't have enough heat, but maybe you guys can comment by what you see in these photos. The lettering is fine, that's part of the design. It's the solid white areas that are the issue. This is the charcoal shirt after 1 wash and 1 dryer session:

thanks.


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## wormil

Did you read my stickied thread on pressing problems? Start there, try the suggestions, then ask.

-- Rick M


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## dAi

wormil said:


> Did you read my stickied thread on pressing problems? Start there, try the suggestions, then ask.
> 
> -- Rick M


when a lot of people are reporting problems with these transfers by FM and after one wash, they are experiencing cracks. Maybe it's not because people are not following the instructions but perhaps a problem coming from the company itself? the quality of their plastisol ink, set up, etc.


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## wormil

Eliminate your own equipment and process first. FM are experts at making transfers, it's more likely that cheap equipment or poor process is at fault.

-- Rick M


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## wormil

I have to eat my words. I had a complaint today about F&M transfers cracking after 6 weeks. They are very cracked. Very disappointing because over the years F&M has been reliable but I can no longer use them after this.

edit; actually it seems the problem might be limited to one size and if so I know why but I'll post about it in another thread. It would mean the problem wasn't with the transfers but with me.


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## Beckmansbeach

if your F&M transfers are cracking, it is because your press does not have enough pressure. I have used 10's of 1000's of their transfers. I own boardwalk T-Shirt shop and learned the hard way. A few years ago I purchased nearly $5,000. in transfers in one shot from them when I expanded my store. Some of them were cracking bad.
Luckily, at the time they were in north Jersey (since then they moved operations to Virginia) so I went to the plant with my transfers and got a full tour of the whole operation.

I was flat out told by multiple employees during my visit that the biggest flaw with their transfers is they require HEAVY pressure and if you have a manual press, even a high quality one (at the time I had a Hix 650p auto-pop) you are going to have durability issues. Pressed a few of the same transfers I was having trouble with (I brought them with me) and pressed them on their InstaPress air press. Perfect, no issues. 

Went home, sucked it up and bought a Hotronix Air Fusion and never looked back. and my back thanks me. 

If you have a cheap press, or any type of manual press you are going to have problems with any F&M transfer. and an "auto-release" press is not an automatic press, a true automatic requires an air compressor.

Think about it- you can only get so much pressure with leverage and your bare hands. I am 6'2" 230lbs, and even putting my back into it and maxing out the pressure on my $1600. Hix Press is nothing compared to the consistent 60lbs of air pressure I get by pushing the buttons on my Hotronix Air Fusion.

Bottom line - all F&M transfers say right on the little label "minimum 50lbs pressure" - not happening without an air compressor.


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## djque

Beckmansbeach said:


> if your F&M transfers are cracking, it is because your press does not have enough pressure. I have used 10's of 1000's of their transfers. I own boardwalk T-Shirt shop and learned the hard way. A few years ago I purchased nearly $5,000. in transfers in one shot from them when I expanded my store. Some of them were cracking bad.
> Luckily, at the time they were in north Jersey (since then they moved operations to Virginia) so I went to the plant with my transfers and got a full tour of the whole operation.
> 
> I was flat out told by multiple employees during my visit that the biggest flaw with their transfers is they require HEAVY pressure and if you have a manual press, even a high quality one (at the time I had a Hix 650p auto-pop) you are going to have durability issues. Pressed a few of the same transfers I was having trouble with (I brought them with me) and pressed them on their InstaPress air press. Perfect, no issues.
> 
> Went home, sucked it up and bought a Hotronix Air Fusion and never looked back. and my back thanks me.
> 
> If you have a cheap press, or any type of manual press you are going to have problems with any F&M transfer. and an "auto-release" press is not an automatic press, a true automatic requires an air compressor.
> 
> Think about it- you can only get so much pressure with leverage and your bare hands. I am 6'2" 230lbs, and even putting my back into it and maxing out the pressure on my $1600. Hix Press is nothing compared to the consistent 60lbs of air pressure I get by pushing the buttons on my Hotronix Air Fusion.
> 
> Bottom line - all F&M transfers say right on the little label "minimum 50lbs pressure" - not happening without an air compressor.


 some of this is a lie. I have a hotronix fusion and crank it down to 6 and press f&m transfers with no problems. I just did a few pullovers the other day. Now a cheap press yeah I can see but not a name brand one. 60lbs lol to put on a transfer. We're also talking about $.15 cent transfers were people are expecting it to be a lambo but its a pinto.


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## wormil

Years ago I did experiments with pressure and it made no difference except at the extreme ranges. No difference to adhesion, cracking, or long term durability. At the high end there was loss of detail, closely registered colors bled. On the low end there were adhesion problems. But for most of the range there was no difference. Definitely pay attention to your pressure but don't obsess.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## BerkshirePrint

I have a Hotronix dual air fusion and use F&M all the time. My settings are 350 for 8 seconds pressure is 50psi all my design come out perfect. 
I have bought maybe 2500 designs from F&M great company.


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## Beckmansbeach

Wow, I don't want to pick a fight, but I really do not like being called a liar. I guess the employees I talked to at F&M in person at their facility were lying to me. They flat out told me to my face the biggest flaw with their product is it requires heavier pressure than most other transfers on the market.
All i was trying to get across is F&M transfers work much better, have much better durablity and consistency when pressed with an Air Operated Press.
The hotronix manual fusion is a great press. My old Hix s650p is a great press. Both will press a F&M transfer fine and often with great results, but nothing compared to the same transfer pressed with an Air Press and proper pressure.

Please explain what above was a lie.


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## collegiatecustom

shirtnyc said:


> the 15 and 20cent crack.. sort of like when a supermarket sells meat that will expire at midnight a low rate they just want the traffic.. but they do have sports formula thats about 33 cents and is worth the extra few dollars for the piece of mind..... the name is performance.. they have products but their customer re-pore with mom and pops politically correct mean they care less as i was often told that why you on the forum looking for answers.. used the performance single image program they wont tell you its their but you will find it on the site..
> 
> the cracks are what they are its a hit or miss basically you get what you pay for 50 bucks for 500 dollar orders im guilty of it too


Agreed. Great margins with the 15 cent program, but the quality is pathetic, in my opinion. I stopped using F&M and went to Howard.


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## relaxntakeitez

Ive used F&M a few times and have had good results with there 1 color athletic formula.


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## Arkelis

Ive had nothing but good results with F&M.The 1 color program was excellent I used them for my family reunion shirts and they came out perfect no problems.Did u use the proper temp,time,and pressure troubleshoot all problems before complaints.They give you extra transfers to test so use them on a test shirt to learn the formula once u find your right settings write sown for future reference and start pressing.(note)All heat presses are not built the same so u have to adjust settings to suit your brand.


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## collegiatecustom

Arkelis said:


> Ive had nothing but good results with F&M.The 1 color program was excellent I used them for my family reunion shirts and they came out perfect no problems.Did u use the proper temp,time,and pressure troubleshoot all problems before complaints.They give you extra transfers to test so use them on a test shirt to learn the formula once u find your right settings write sown for future reference and start pressing.(note)All heat presses are not built the same so u have to adjust settings to suit your brand.


The shirts would look pretty good at first, but you really start to notice the difference after a handful of washes. The prints just start to get crunchy...

That said, they do recommend washing the shirt inside out to prolong life, but how many people wash all their printed tees inside out?

All in all, was just pretty disappointed with the hand/feel I got from FM's athletic formula.


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