# Trouble embroidering onesies



## stitchesnstuff

I am trying to embroider onesies. I am using the sticky stabilizer, that way I do not have to hoop the shirt. The stitching occasionally pulls my shirt in and ruins it. What tricks do any of you have? What size needle do you use? Any help would be appreciated.


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## Fluid

its hard to say without knowing exactly what you mean by "pulling the shirt in".
Possible editing the digitized file to compensate more for the push & pull or youll need to use a hoop.


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## stitchesnstuff

I have trouble with letters. I don't know if you are familiar with this feature, but my machine has a "fix" feature. It stitches a box around my design. I figure that has to help a little bit with the pulling on the fabric. By pulling it in I mean a little of the delicate fabric (of a Bella onesie to be exact) is getting stuck down where my bobbin area is. (I am not a huge operation. I have a Viking Designer SE, single needle. I am no where near the caliber of most people on this sight.) Then it continues to sew but it is not moving the garment, thus sewing in the same spot. I am using my standard font not really resizing it. I am using a hoop. I hoop the stabilizer(like a giant sticker) and the shirt set on it. If I would hoop it, what stablilizer should I use? I hope my explanation was not too elementary. I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page.


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## Fluid

I would say a light weight backing would work fine. Its possible you could use your stabilizer still just hoop the garment along with the stabilizer.

I dont know anything about your machince so I cannot offer suggestions on messing with any settings.

Hoop one of your messed up ones like i mentioned and try a test. if it works kewl


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## Screenanator

On delicate fabrics ...like the Bella Onesies...we use the water disolving stabilizer on the top and bottm to sandwich the fabric...works great!


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## COEDS

I was thinking about the solvy too. I would also try another piece of tear away backing too. Let us know if it works. I would try this on a trashed onesie. LOL ....JB


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## Katrena

I use a tearaway on bottom and a water solvy on top.
I dont hoop my onesies either I use the KK2000 adhesive spray.

Katrena


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## stitchesnstuff

Thanks a million for the responses. I will have to try the water disolving stabilizer. I knew somebody would have a better idea than mine.


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## plaid

I embroider on dog shirts and they are ribbed, the thinnest part always got pulled down into my machine also. So I use a sticky back (tear-away), and I *have-to *use a stablizer on the top, I use a water-soluble too. But that was my missing piece of the puzzle when I has trouble. If you have trouble the other ways, try this. Hope you figure it out!


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## CKH

I use Iron on Stabilizer on all knits. I use one piece with the nap running vertically and another across that with the nap running horizontil. Use enough to cover the whoe hoop that you are using. 
I hlpe this helps


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## American logoZ

I recently finished a job consisting of 750 infant t-shirts. Most of my efforts went into digitizing something that would run smoothly - 3800 stitches. I hooped the t with a piece of lightweight tearaway. Stitched like a dream. I finished by ironing on a piece of something I buy by the bolt from Floriani (RNK). I forget what it's called. Dream weave maybe? There's a thread on here that talks about it and gives several ideas for suppliers.


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## skaplan1

the stitches are very rough on the inside of the onsie. can anyone tell me what to use to add softness?


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## JAF

It's possible to reduce your density and that will help. They make a product that you can iron onto the back of the garment and will protect the baby from the stitches. It is known by different names, Cloud cover is one possibility.


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## binki

The backing is too thin and/or the material is pushing. Use a thicker backing and then a fusable cover over the stitching. We also use a solvy on these. 

We also hoop these for this reason.


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## MURRAY

Without seeing what your doing i can only guess. Needle,thread and stitch density are determined by what weight fabric your using. 75/11 needle is standard in most cases.120/2 or 40 wght. Thread is also. Sounds like your design maybe too much for material. Machine speed can also be a factor.


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## twilightdancer

I'm confused- how do you not hoop something to embroider it?

anyway-
we have this issue with kids leotards - we either use a soft tearway or heavy cutaway.
then trim as close as you can and fuse the lightweight backing to hold all those itchy stitches in afterward. its a stretchy and soft filmy type of lightweight fabric stuff.

It's called Cloud Cover- dashew sells it.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS

On the home type machines, they are kind of like a sewing machine so you can't put the back of the onesie under the bobbin like a commercial machine does. You have to basically turn the item inside out and do it like a bowl shape and hold the rest of the material out of the way or do it regularly and hold the back out of the way.


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## MURRAY

If your doing leotards use a light tear away it it has to be next to skin im assuming. You can use a clamping hoop or a mild adhesive to glue garment to backing hooped in large hoop or border frame


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## twilightdancer

ah. i see.

thx!

doing leotards- i would love to use cutaway - but the customer does not like it and needs tearaway.
some designs are a real pain if they have small text or heavy stitch counts.

they don't want the cloud cover either- 
not sure why not- but hey.
whatever works


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## LUV DEM TIGERS

twilightdancer said:


> ah. i see.
> 
> thx!
> 
> doing leotards- i would love to use cutaway - but the customer does not like it and needs tearaway.
> some designs are a real pain if they have small text or heavy stitch counts.
> 
> they don't want the cloud cover either-
> not sure why not- but hey.
> whatever works



RNK Distributing carries a Floriani Stabilier that is a no show diamond mesh and it works great in place of needing a tear away. You can't tell it is a cutaway from the front because it is thin and you can't see it from the front.


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## twilightdancer

I have something like that no show mesh i use for white shirts.

but the customer does not want to see any backing at all from the inside. (person also asks that we trim all inside threads too) 
eek.


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## LUV DEM TIGERS

twilightdancer said:


> I have something like that no show mesh i use for white shirts.
> 
> but the customer does not want to see any backing at all from the inside. (person also asks that we trim all inside threads too)
> eek.




I hope you get a GREAT price for it. They wouldn't be my customer for long. It is the INSIDE of the shirt/onesie. As long at it isn't seen from the front, and it is not designed to be exposed to the back, what difference does it make?


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## Sulp

twilightdancer said:


> I'm confused- how do you not hoop something to embroider it?


Embroidering items without "hooping" them is very common and quite easy. For example...i just did a bunch of karate belts that were way too thick to be hooped. So what u do is hoop 2 pcs of backing (they make several sticky backings made specifically for this purpose, but u can do it with regular backing and spray tack) By themselves. Then take some spray tack and spray the backing lightly. Next take the belt and stick it to the backing inside the hoop so it's stuck to it pretty good. Once it's stuck u are ready to go. Put the hoop in the machine and start the design. Do a nice underlay first so it tacks the belt in place. Run the machine slower since it is such a thick material. This method works on tons of different items with thick seams, bag piping, etc. Works like a charm.


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## JAF

twilightdancer said:


> I have something like that no show mesh i use for white shirts.
> 
> but the customer does not want to see any backing at all from the inside. (person also asks that we trim all inside threads too)
> eek.


For anything stretchy, like a leotard, I would use a light cutaway. Leotards stretch quite a bit and if you used a tearaway your stitches are also stretching. When your stitching stretches you run the risk of stitches breaking. That's why you use a cutaway on items that stretch (there are exceptions)

Since the customer is telling you how to do your job make sure they take responsibility if the stitches distort or start falling out. Have the sign off on this job. If it were me I wouldn't accept this job at all.


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## torita

I am also having trouble with the onsie. My letters and design have white mixed in. I can't decide if it's the bobbin thread on top or the material of the onsie coming through. Any ideas?


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## tfalk

What kind of machine, backing, thread? Have you run a tension test recently to see if your tensions are set correctly? A picture of the top and bottom would be needed before anyone can make anything other than an un-educated SWAG.


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