# Screen printing white problem



## utero (Jun 9, 2007)

Ever since I've taken up screen printing I've never done a successful white print onto dark.

So I got some 32t mesh screens and still have problems, the screen is sticking to the shirt on print and some of ink is staying in the mesh on one side.

Any good tips for achieving solid white prints and squeegee techinique online videos would be a great help


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## MentinkiZM (Apr 16, 2008)

Is your screen setup too close to your tshirt?

When you press the squeegee to the screen right after you pass the screen is supposed to be enough away to seporate right then. Maybe yours is too close to the pallet and not seporating untill you lift the screen messing up your print?

Just a random thought. 

-MzM


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## tpitman (Jul 30, 2007)

Generally to get a bright white on dark shirts, you'll need to print/flash/print. Some use 110 screens. I usually use a 156 or even a 195, depending on the art, to get a reasonably soft print. What I do is flood the screen twice, filling the stencil, do a print stroke, then a dry stroke to clear out any remaining ink in the mesh, flash, then a flood and print, then to the dryer.

As mentioned above, you need some off-contact, plus I assume you're using some type of adhesive on the platen to hold the shirt down.

That first print has to be smooth, and that's where the dry print stroke helps. I haven't had a problem with rough prints since I started doing that.


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## utero (Jun 9, 2007)

cheers guy's what sort of disance between platten and screen should I be looking at?


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

utero said:


> cheers guy's what sort of disance between platten and screen should I be looking at?


I heard some called it the two pennies separation, it means one on top of the other, that's the distance from my screen to the platen.
Also, on the edge of the screen, closer to you, I use a small piece of cardboard to make the screen lean on it when you applied the stroke, instead of doing it on the platen. Does it make any sense?
Good luck.


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## Steelheader100 (Jan 18, 2007)

I agree with what was said above. You need a little off contact like an 1/8". If you dont have good off contact adjustments on your press you can tape a paint stir stick to the underside of your screen. Make sure your shirt is stuck down good with adhesive. I like to use a tight 140 mesh for white ink. Use a sharp 70 durometer squeegee. Stir your ink well. What kind of ink are you using anyway? And does anyone know what 32t mesh is equal to ie 110,140? I've only ever seen mesh counts like that at the art supply store.


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## utero (Jun 9, 2007)

Thanks for the advice

I've been trying it but so far my whites look a little dirty and not impressive. I'm sure it's probably my squeegee technique as I'm getting aches in the hands. Am I right to say it's more a case of laying the ink onto the shirt raher than pushing it in?


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## ApparelBuilder (Apr 28, 2008)

These guys have all given you GREAT advise but if your using a screen that's too open and doesn't have good tension then (and your not a seasoned pro yet) it's going to be difficult to get that perfect white print. 

If your smashing the ink through the shirt, YES that is not what your trying to do and will end up seeing more of the shirt through than you want. The Off-Contact is KEY to making good white prints along with a flash cure to gel the surface of the ink before you go back for the 2nd hit of white. 

Don't try to make the first print too heavy, just get a nice smooth layer of ink down, then after you have properly flashed the first layer (lightly tap it with your finger... if your finger has white ink, flash a little longer) bring your screen down again for a second white pass and again don't over do it, just a clean smooth print.

You will have much better luck going this route than trying to get a nice smooth white with one pass or even a double stroke... you need that flash.

If you are still having issues and know how to handle waterbase inks, try discharge white we use lots it in our shop and LOVE the cool vintage effects you get.

Good luck


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## RR (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello,

I am also new to screen printing and encounter also big problems when it comes to print white on black shirts. I use water based inks. I tried with a lot of off contact, but that still did not really help. the t shirt always sticks to the screen and when i remove it slowly I have still a lot of ink on the screen and a not fully covered print. I would be happy for some more help on this. Is it possible to make the white finer or less sticky. One problem might also be that my screen is not so really tight I think. I would be happy if someone who ha the same problems in the beginning could explain who he or she improved their technique.

A lot of thanks already in advance.


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## Miroslav (Feb 26, 2008)

@RR

I think that my fellows ih shop prints with water based inks without off contat. Our's screen's are tensioned on about 18N and mesh is 43T (lines/cm) or 110 lines per/inch. Squeegee is soft or medium 60 or 65 sh (red color). First they does flood stroke and then 2 print strokes with a little pressure and then flash. Then comes one stroke print with same screen and result is perfect brilliant print.

Maybe you have problem with white ink? We only use bezema-cht inks, Blanc 450 most often.


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## utero (Jun 9, 2007)

Gave it another go, this morning but still no joy. These are new screens so the mesh is tight. Will hunt around youtube for some good videos


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## Fuzz (May 7, 2007)

First you need to stir the ink really well before you use it.

Set the off-contact to about 1/8 inch.

Squeegie the ink across with a good pressure but do it QUICK, if you do it slow you will probably stick.

Then do a QUICK "dry pass" with the squeegie to clear the screen.

Now flash it only enough to dry the top surface of the ink (maybe 10 seconds)

Let it cool for a few seconds or blow on it. 

Finally, add another coat of ink and dry.

I had issues with this for a long time and that is the exactly how I do it now and i never have a problem anymore.


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## RR (Apr 27, 2008)

before you flash it the first time, how does the print look like? Not fully covered yet or just not
so bright yet?


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## utero (Jun 9, 2007)

will follow your advice fuzz and see what happens


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## Miroslav (Feb 26, 2008)

@RR 
not so bright yet. But on the polo shirts (pique) is not fully covered after first print. I agree with fuzz, try to speed up your print stroke.


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## Fuzz (May 7, 2007)

Yeah, not so bright but you should be able to see the full print. If the full image isnt printing then you have another issue to deal with .


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## RR (Apr 27, 2008)

Do I also need to cure when I use water based inks?


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## psi (May 11, 2007)

To keep the shirt on the platen (board) you have to use some spray adhesive on the platen. This will make sure that the tee doesn't lift up when you lift the screen.

I don't know if you have a flash cure un it but if you don't try getting a heat gun or even a hair drier to dry off your first print so then you can do your second.

This should give you a good result.


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## jjredox (Dec 17, 2007)

Hi guys
I got the same problems and it's driving me mad...!
I know i'm only starting but printing black on white is SO easy that i'm losing it when printing white on black...

I believe i've got the same issues with:
- my screen mesh not being tight enough (i've different screens and i can clearly see that some have much more tension in the mesh)
- the white plastisol i'm using is so thick. when i do a pass with the squeege even pressing hard with a 95. angle it still hard to leave a clean screen behind, it still look like i just floaded it i.e. tyou can not see the desing underneath the ink...
- 80% of the time when i do the first pass, flash, then the 2nd pass, i have a smuggy 2nd coat (you can see a border on the first print, like the screen has moved but it didnt BUT the rest of the print is kind of ok and very white) - perhaps this is due the the mesh not being thigh enough and me having to push that hard to make my ink going thru...

It seems that everyone agree to say that the ink should be mixed for quite some time before using it... What are we talking about? 5min? what the result should be like?

I am using a 43W mesh... should i used 34? 

Also my squeege have a red blade... is it a soft one? 
From what i experienced i believe i need a really 

Thanks a lot for all the previous info.
I'm gonna try again with the other screen/mesh i got and with stiring the ink very well before using it.


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## samtees (Jun 9, 2009)

i've have same trouble when i use water base ink onto fleece or thick polyester with 61t screen mesh. Shirt sticking with screen. Somebody can help?


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

try this video out..might answer some questions...

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtLvG0X3_JU[/media]

_Inked_


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## jjredox (Dec 17, 2007)

That video is interesting although he doesn't talk about the thickness of his emulsion, and the tension of his screen.
Would it work with one coating emulsion and does the screen have to be really tight or perhaps it doesn't matter.
I'm gonna try now.


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## InkedApparel (Mar 18, 2009)

Im gonna make a video ....ill walk thru each step I use to make a nice white opaque print......check for updates...today is saturday 6/13/09...... i hope to make the video in a few days ..it will probably take a few videoes to complete because it is a few step process......

Inked


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## Charms4all (Jan 29, 2007)

Hello...
did you ever make that video you were talking about?


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## LivingThread (Feb 25, 2008)

i only know about plastisol inks.

when youre coating your screen (wtih a scoop coater) make two passes on the shirt side of the screen and one on the ink side of the screen. this allows for a "deeper" ink well on the shirt side. if you make one pass while coating, you create a very shallow stencil and not much ink will fit in that area.

make sure when you wash out the screen after exposing the screen you get all of the emulsion out of the area you plan to push ink thru. if you dont, it wont come out very good. put the screen on the exposure unit (or preferably a light table) and let the light shine thru to make sure its all out.

make sure the ink is mixed. make some kind fo mixing tool to fit on a drill and mix the crap out of it before you start printing. dont try it in freezing weather. the warmer the ink the better (like 80f degrees)

the shirt should never come up off the pallet. spray it with adhesive. if its a type of fleece, use the web spray.

after your first print and after youflash the shirt, let it cool down. printing it while its hot will result in a wet on wet print and not give you what you want.

it shouldnt take more than two print strokes to clear the screen of ink. if it does, the mesh may be shot. get a new one. its easier to get a new screen for $15-$20 than to waste garments.


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