# Poly-pretreat + DTG or Sublimation on 100% poly shirts?



## api (Nov 22, 2009)

Please give me some advice: We want to start offering LIGHT COLORED, 100% poly, performance shirts with full color images. We have two options:

1.) Starting sublimation (from scratch)
2.) Using poly-pretreat fluid and print the shirts with our existing DTG (GT-541) printer.

Which way would you go and why?

My concerns:

- Sublimation is new for us and - as I see - it is not as straight forward as our DTG operation with the Brother GT-541.
- Sublimation needs higher temp. (400F) and the poly performance material can show the "pawprint" of the heat press. Is it avoidable? 
- Poly pretreat needs a pain in the butt pretreatment procedure with all the problems that comes with it (machine or booth, HVLP gun, etc.) 
- Sublimation is excellent (minimal fading) DTG (I don't know)
- DTG has no ink migration issues to the second layer (to the front or to the back) of the shirt and won't need parchment paper
- DTG won't need ICC profiles, precise ink quantity settings, etc..

So, which would be more profitable, with less manufacturing issues and which would give better quality? 

Thanks for any help.

Api


----------



## joconnell (Mar 26, 2010)

From my experience I would always go for sublimation. The process is more straightforward, guarenteed quality results and less time consuming. I have had no experience with poly pretreatment and I cannot comment on the quality of image but with sublimation the image quality is excellent and durable.
Regards,
James


----------



## api (Nov 22, 2009)

Thanks James,

Do you have any problem with the high temperature on the poly garments? How can you avoid having a shiny rectangle print from the heat press itself? Are you talking about large format sublimation with huge heat press?

My second area of questions:

How fast is the sublimation?

The DTG printing is pretty quick. 10-15 seconds of pretreating + 15 sec. pretreatment curing + 60 sec. DTG printing + 35 sec curing = appr. 2 minutes 
(Of course processes can work parallel.) 

Thanks,

Api


----------



## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

From what I have seen the DTG is not as bright as Sublimation but it is as durable.

I say give it a go, call you supplier for a sample and do a test. If you are not printing the whole garment but only logos on light then DTG them.


----------



## BETO (Feb 1, 2008)

Hello I haven't done the pretreat on 100% polyester shirts, but I did on Sublimation flip flops 100% polyester and the results were really impressive besides the look what I was more impresse was the durability on the surface of the print stay there for long time even after wear and wash the flip flops on the wash machine.
That all what I can said, but you can ask Mark he knows more about his own product.
Robert.


----------



## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

I have done both. The DTG wears and washes well but the sublimation beats it as far as pop and durability hands down. The shirts I used were made for sublimation and shirt fort DTG were std Walmart athletic poly shirts. But DTG was 1/3 the cost even with the poly pretreat. I would have someone close do a sub then buy some DTG pretreat for poly and compare. Same art file. The Poly pretreat is a great pretreat for your white or light color 100% cotton shirts. Helps it pop and wash better, so if you get stuck with the pretreat you can use it.


----------



## joconnell (Mar 26, 2010)

Api,
Any marks from the press will disappear when you wash.The largest I do is A3. The time it takes is to print and put in press for 30 - 40 secs, it will be much quicker than DTG.
Regards
James


----------



## 23spiderman (Jun 26, 2008)

since you already have the Brother 541, i would use that first. if you aren't happy with the results, or after you've made some profits, then you can ease into sublimation. the pretreat process for poly is MUCH easier than the pretreat for white ink. the poly shirts i've done looked and washed great. i use a Wagner for my white ink pretreat and just a regular spray bottle for the poly. it's easy and fast, and you already have what you need. spray, cure, print, cure.


----------



## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

You can always order sublimation transfers and press them yourself. See what product you and your customers prefer and take it from there.


----------



## api (Nov 22, 2009)

Thank you guys, I really appreciate all your help.

It seems that we will start with the DTG. My only concern was in this DTG route that we have a relatively upscale shop and I cannot start spraying the pretreatment fluid all over. I think we have to buy a pretreatment machine which will be also useful if (when) we start using white ink for DTG. Most of our customers can be easily redirected from dark to light shirts so we decided against the white ink. 

It is soooo convenient using CMYK only with a workhorse Brother GT-541...


----------



## 23spiderman (Jun 26, 2008)

the poly pretreat is nothing like it's white ink counterpart. it doesn't seem to leave the residue, or have the smell. you could spray in a back room, or just block off an area in the back corner of your store. you also don't need near as much, but of course, you'll want to do your own testing to see what works best for you.


----------



## api (Nov 22, 2009)

We have no back room, and the back corner is filled with blank shirts (in stock). Strange, but it is easier to put down a pretreatment machine in this shop than a small, partially open, spray booth. We have a showroom, we do designs, DTG, vinyl and rhinestones as well so the area is pretty crowded already.

Anyway. I will solve this pretreatment issue; it isn't a big deal...


----------



## 23spiderman (Jun 26, 2008)

if you can afford one, then that will work great, especially when you transition to using white ink. i just pretreat mine right next to my heat press. 

make sure to report back once you've tried a few. i've been pleased with the results, but i'm curious to know how others see it.


----------



## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

You can pretreat and then store. You do not have to do it just shortly before printing.


----------



## printer631 (Dec 14, 2011)

We do both process' in house and for a performance poly garment we always sublimate. You can stop the press marks with a vapor foam kit which is high temp foam placed under a teflon sheet with kraft paper on top of that, the garment on top of that with another kraft paper on top of that. Preferably a threadbale heat press to stop any migration issues. If you can't thread the garment then you can put kraft paper in the garment to protect the other side. Remember to replace it each time as well. With sublimation you just replace the kraft paper every garment as it is super cheap. That way you never have the migration issues.


----------

