# Roland SP300 making shirts



## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

I have a Roland SP300 that I have been using to make signs, banners, decals, etc. I want to start making shirts, bags, sweatshirts, etc to bring in a few more customers and to add some extra income to the business. I am in the process of getting a Fusion Heat Press. I already ordered some Siser Easyweed vinyl, but was wondering what kind of oppertunities I have with the Roland printer? I know they have the print vinyl that I can print custom designs on. I have several groups already waiting for me to get going to make them 20 -50 shirts for each group. I've watched a ton of videos from Stahls and other sites, but I still have the question...... besides heat cut vinyl and heat print vinyl, what can I do on my Roland to give me great results...... especially on larger orders? Thanks guys


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

Anything garments, t-shirts, caps, aprons, polos etc...there is so much. Start with small say a matching apron and cap then branch out from there. Sports teams, full colour logos on polyester etc...there is a lot you can do with such a reliable machine.

Transfers in bulk without pressing.


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## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

Thanks Mabuzi........ what kind of material do I need to get so that I can print on and do transfers with my Roland printer? I guess it would be called digital transfers. I also have a WF1100 with pigment inks that I could use to do printed transfers, but I was thinking that the Roland would give greater results with the better inks....... 

I've researched online and see that you can buy transfers that all you have to do is press onto shirts. These are cheap unless you want something custom, then it looks expensive to me. This is what I'm wondering if I can do. Can I print on a certain type material with my Roland and just press on shirts to keep from having to weed so much? And if so, how are the results?


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

The company that supplies your banner vinyl should be able to sell the rolls of t-shirt transfer media. You can print banners, unload the roll, load then t-shirt vinyl roll, change profile and print. It will print and then cut out your design.

You see how fine you can cut your files.


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## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

Thanks for the pic uploads. Are those 3 pics all printed on vinyl? Those look nice.........


If I needed to make 50 shirts that had a bunch of small names on the backs of shirts, what process would you use? If I do heat vinyl, that would be a lot of weeding. Or, is that my only choice besides getting somebody else to do it? 

Do you buy print vinyl that will work on lights, darks, and different materials, or do you have multiple rolls for different jobs?


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

For text on colour or dark shirts you will need to weed very one so I will screen print. On white you can print clear transfers.

There is clear for whites, pro for darks, stretch and nylon and subblocker for polyester.

Your printable vinyl is different to the plain vinyl: 
Plain vinyl colours: Vinyl lettering, sports names and numbers, custom numbers
Printable vinyl: T-shirt Transfers, Digital t-shirt Transfers, Full colour cad cut t-shirt transfers.


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## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

Do you use the transfer paper on any of your products....... Or do you stick with vinyl transfers?

Can that paper be used in the Roland? On all of the posts I read here, it seems like everybody uses that paper in laser and inkjet printers. 

Thanks for the pics. on the last 3 pics you sent me, were they all do with vinyl transfers? They look good.


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

We never use inkjet or laserjet transfers just the printable vinyl media that you would get from the vinyl supplier. Why would you want to use those papers?

Yep they are all print and cut media from the Roland.










You need to make sure you have cut lines setup Promotional T-shirts, Digital T-shirt Transfers, Full colour cad cut tee shirt transfers


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## ladibug21 (Aug 23, 2009)

Mabuzi, does the printable vinyl require the special inks (pigment, sublimation)? Or can my regular printer with plain Jane office depot ink work?


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

It requires solvent inks (Eco-solvent works too)

Note: I am not an expert I could be wrong. I bought a roll and gave it to my printer. He test printed on it, print came out good, but the cutting was horrible. Appetantly I need to wait for the ink to cure for 4-6 hours before cutting...


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## ladibug21 (Aug 23, 2009)

Confused again. Just when I thought I had the ink thing down I find out about
More ink. I get that sublimation ink (like sawgrass) is for sublimation - the ability
To adhere an image to a polyester base like polyester clothing, mousePads, mugs, etc. Pigment inks will print Your images/designs on transfer paper to be heat pressforth 100% cotton items. My office printer prints with dye(?) ink prints my regular office
Documents and regular office stuff (letters, address labels, etc) Now can you 
Explain more about solvent (eco) ink and correct anything above that may be 
Incorrect. Thanks!


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

This thread is about the sp300 which uses solvent inks. It's also a cutter. For this printer, you print with Eco solvent onto a solid roll of white, then cut that out. You then stick transfer tape on it, pull off the sticker, put it into a shirt, and heat press it. You then peel it off warm.


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## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

Mabuzi said:


> We never use inkjet or laserjet transfers just the printable vinyl media that you would get from the vinyl supplier. Why would you want to use those papers?
> 
> Yep they are all print and cut media from the Roland.
> 
> ...


 
I was thinking that if I had to do a shirt that had a bunch of text on the back, that if you printed on those papers, that would save time on weeding out those small letters.

I really appreciate all of the samples and advice you have given me. Thanks for your site links too. Are you able to contour cut as soon as you print or does it depend on the material? I know on sign vinyl, you suppose to wait 24hours before contour cutting.

Ordered my Hotoronix Fusion today, so I'm trying to get prepared to press away!!!!

Thanks for everyones input.


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

Sign vinyl you're supposed to wait 24 hours before laminating, not cutting. The 24 hour period is to let the ink outgas so bubbles won't pop up.


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## JohnnyBGood (Aug 30, 2010)

cryptkeeper said:


> Sign vinyl you're supposed to wait 24 hours before laminating, not cutting. The 24 hour period is to let the ink outgas so bubbles won't pop up.


 
If I have a white border around the sign, then I will cut right away.... if there is no border, you should wait 24 hours for the ink to outgas. before cutting. If not, then you take a chance on the edges curling, due to the ink not being fully dry and affecting the glue.....????? That's what my vendors say anyway, so that's what I have been doing.


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## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

I wait 24 hours for laminating. I put the Versacamm to dry for 10-15 min before cutting, programmable. I use Evolution Print Cut Vinyl for about everything. I find opaque solutions difficult to weed. Some materials require a drying time for several hours before applying transfer material and pressing. I use Imprintables Warehouse and JSI. Imprintables can save u a lot of time as they have a lot of knowledge on this subject and are very helpful. Watch out if you use Eco film, a cut only heat vinyl, it tends to build up static and jam up the cutter causing a head crash. I wipe both the cutter and vinyl with dryer sheets to kill the static. Do not leave unattended.


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## scuba_steve2699 (Nov 15, 2006)

spiderx1 said:


> I wait 24 hours for laminating. I put the Versacamm to dry for 10-15 min before cutting, programmable. I use Evolution Print Cut Vinyl for about everything. I find opaque solutions difficult to weed. Some materials require a drying time for several hours before applying transfer material and pressing. I use Imprintables Warehouse and JSI. Imprintables can save u a lot of time as they have a lot of knowledge on this subject and are very helpful. Watch out if you use Eco film, a cut only heat vinyl, it tends to build up static and jam up the cutter causing a head crash. I wipe both the cutter and vinyl with dryer sheets to kill the static. Do not leave unattended.


If you are having static issues with the Eco film - get a stop static kit and it will fix it VERY quickly. 

Medias should be dry enough after printing to cut right away. The 24 hours is for out gassing of the solvents and is recommended prior to laminating to prevent silvering (gas against the laminate) on the final product. 

For heat transfer medias - wait 30 minutes prior to masking especially heavy ink colors such as red and black to allow the ink to cure enough to not be pulled up by the mask media.

If your ink is not dry enough - you are not using the correct profile or have a humidity issue in your work environment.


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

JohnnyBGood said:


> If I have a white border around the sign, then I will cut right away.... if there is no border, you should wait 24 hours for the ink to outgas. before cutting. If not, then you take a chance on the edges curling, due to the ink not being fully dry and affecting the glue.....????? That's what my vendors say anyway, so that's what I have been doing.


no, you should be able to print and cut right away on most substrates, the ONLY one I've had an issue with is the heat transfer material. it curled up while cutting right after (without white border). after re-reading the documentation, I found out about the curing time.

I was not sure if the curing time was related to the cutting, or if the curing time was related to the transfer mask. I never got around to testing it, my printer sold his sp-540, so I don't have a solvent printer anymore.

outgassing is only for lamination. if you laminate, and the ink is still "breathing" it could create a tiny bubblish area between the lamination and print area.


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

spiderx1 said:


> I wait 24 hours for laminating. I put the Versacamm to dry for 10-15 min before cutting, programmable. I use Evolution Print Cut Vinyl for about everything. I find opaque solutions difficult to weed. Some materials require a drying time for several hours before applying transfer material and pressing. I use Imprintables Warehouse and JSI. Imprintables can save u a lot of time as they have a lot of knowledge on this subject and are very helpful. Watch out if you use Eco film, a cut only heat vinyl, it tends to build up static and jam up the cutter causing a head crash. I wipe both the cutter and vinyl with dryer sheets to kill the static. Do not leave unattended.


is your printer on a carpeted area? try putting the feet on tiles or other non-static conducting area.


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## Natalia2011 (Sep 15, 2011)

What material of shirt works best using the sp300i and heat transfer method?
Polyester?
Cotton?
Mix of both or?


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## Dizzymarkus (Sep 23, 2012)

Have been using the Imprintables brand Spectra Eco film which is cut only vinyl transfer -- layerable, very soft feel, easily weedable, clear carrier paper already (no need for liner), tons of colors and metallics and great durability so far after 7 months of its use. Careless washing and drying.

Complaints -- wierd size rolls 
Little Expensive
After drying if left unfolded it wrinkles

With a SP-300v

Have yet to use printable as this layers so well

Markus
PrecisionSignandGraphics


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

We never wait for 24 hours. We print then cut laminate then heat press within the hour. I have transfer shirts printed that are 4 years old and are still great.
We either Flush Weeded, Weeded Bubble or Standard Bubble

This transfer was printed 4 years ago and has been both hot washed and tumble dried a few times.


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## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

I doubt that you laminate then heat press. As in laminating does not apply to heat transfer graphics. So what did you really mean to say??


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

Natalia2011 said:


> What material of shirt works best using the sp300i and heat transfer method?
> Polyester?
> Cotton?
> Mix of both or?


All. I have printed polyester shirts, sublimated shirts, rash vests, t-shirts, bags, polos you name it. 
And you cut out the smallest of images.


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

Yes we do cold laminate t-shirt transfers. Here is an image of the transfer after cold laminate before pressing.

Why would you say we dont?


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## Dizzymarkus (Sep 23, 2012)

Why lol better start looking for another material to use :0)


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## scraplord (Nov 6, 2012)

anybody have problems with banding on their roland?


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## Mabuzi (Jul 3, 2007)

No.
Your heads are shot. The black ink is harsh on the heads depending on the inks used. I dont think a clean will help. Run the Roland head test prints.


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## scuba_steve2699 (Nov 15, 2006)

Mabuzi said:


> Yes we do cold laminate t-shirt transfers. Here is an image of the transfer after cold laminate before pressing.
> 
> Why would you say we dont?


LOL - that is a good one! 

I did have a customer figure out a way to laminate a t-shirt although it was expensive and VERY time consuming. They pressed the shirt normally and then used Solutions Clear cut to shape and lined up over it to apply a clear protective layer on top. Not something I would want to do but it worked for them!


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## scuba_steve2699 (Nov 15, 2006)

scraplord said:


> anybody have problems with banding on their roland?


Banding is usually an improper feed calibration or a bad profile. Do a feed calibration and then if it is not fixed, look into the profile - see if you are using the correct one for the media you are printing on.


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## scuba_steve2699 (Nov 15, 2006)

Mabuzi said:


> No.
> Your heads are shot. The black ink is harsh on the heads depending on the inks used. I dont think a clean will help. Run the Roland head test prints.


Are you implying that banding means the heads are shot? There are many other causes for banding other than a bad head.


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## cryptkeeper (Apr 26, 2010)

spiderx1 said:


> I doubt that you laminate then heat press. As in laminating does not apply to heat transfer graphics. So what did you really mean to say??


Lamination is for vinyl. You wait 24 hours to outgas sign vinyl. You do not apply laminate to heat press transfers, you apply transfer tape. Transfer tape is just to move it over from the carrier to the substrate. Technically, they both can be applied using the same method. 

Transfer tape is basically "temporary lamination for the purpose of transferring decals"

Lamination is for the "protection of a print" 

You do not laminate heat transfers, there was much confusion in this thread.


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