# How to make a Rhinestone Template for Rhinestone placement and Rhinestone Transfers



## sjidohair

Ok, guys I opened this up so we could get some discussion going on here about how to make a Rhinestone Template of different materials,,
go for it,, 
Post good bad and uglies it will help everyone,,


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## thejam

Sounds interesting. Cant wait to hear what everyone has to say.


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## sjidohair

Well this is gonna get good. I'm fortunate in the space part of the deal. I have a spare bedroom and when I sell the wrecker, I'll have a small garage. I have to work at home for personal reasons ( more than just "doesn't play well with others"). If any of ya'll noticed that I'm trying to get info in quite a few area, that is the reason. Not attention deficiate disorder. Sorry, computer with spell check is down.
Anyway, wallyworld has a craft dept that sells small sheets of plastic that might/should work. I tried to use a hand drill without much luck. With a drill press (cheap harbour freight) and some claamps, I believe I can get a decent template. The first one I did, I just used a spray adhesive on two sheets and stuck them together, the one I drilled the pattern into and one without any holes at all. I think it wouldn't have been all that bad if my expectations weren't so high. I was hoping to get them to do like in the videos and just shake them into place with no more than a light brushing off and have a perfect pattern. Next one wil be a mix of shaker and hand set. Maybe not as fast as the videos but faster than an exacto and sticky sheet method. (I wish I hadn't desttroyed the first one trying to make it better) Actually, the first one was two layers plactic drilled through(trying to get depth correct) and the third sheet was glued whole to the drilled ones for the backer. I glued the first two together before drilling. Well, thats what I have done aand experianced so far so you might know a little more thaan five minutes ago. I learn something almost every time I read posts here.


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## sjidohair

I am bringing over some discussion on this subject from the rhinstone transfer lesson, section
these are not my posts,,


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## sjidohair

HOLY CRAP, that video is a hour long and I only watched the first 30 or so minutes initially...That software is even better than I thought....Well worth it, if you are serious and have the money WHICH I DO NOT! Again, like i said, just a kitchen table guy who recently got laid OFF...

For instance, I now have a order for a shirt simply saying Blessed in a cursive font. To look right, the stones would have to follow the text and the stone size would need to get smaller and bigger to show the cursive style. THERE IS NO WAY TO DO THIS IN COREL, except by hand....
Which isnt, that BAD, cuz like he said...You only have to do it once...
But check out the video at 44:50 into it...

My *TOD* Time Of Death was at exactly 46:14!

Dude just typed the cursive text, just like what I need and rhinestone placement adjusted for space and SIZE, He simply typed a damn word....That was amazing!!!!

Not too mention, the label they include, way to apply with vinyl transfers, etc....

WT Heck, Do i know...I'm a total noob, just trying to get something going...lol

I think they are complete, geniuses and THIEFS!
Got to hand it to them though, they seen the market, realized what folks needed and designed IT. SO now they charge a pretty Hefty Price tag....
I see NO better or efficient software, and feel that even at that price tag..... if you are going to be SERIOUS...which I aspire to...at some point, it may justified.

Using the ORDER example he talks about in the first 3 minutes, which I think is definitely legitimate and do-able. The lady profited....$1,840.....I think that about covers it!!!!

SO...blah, blah, blah....I'm sticking with my SLIGHTLY inferior method, that I HOPE will work, and put this on the shelf for future use.

BUT, I still need that light green material that they used....No hits yet...


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## sjidohair

posted by bruceking_Last week when I was at ISS Ft. Worth I saw a demo of some new software for cutting rhinestone templates.
DAS has a program called Stone Stencils that works with your vinyl cutter - Rhinestone Setting System

If you already have a cutter this might be an easier way to get stencils._








Repeating post to video for most recent page...

HOT TOPIC!! 66


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## charles95405

Sandy Jo...you are right that the video is amazing...if you don't want to watch the entire video..click on the video tab at the top center and you will get a page with about 9 short videos that are 5-10 long

I already had a great deal of the stuff required so I upgraded my software..got the stone stencil set and the pack with about 1300 or so ready to cut designs..This will enable me to have some 'stock' designs on hand and ready to do custom work.

I do have the roland engraver but this look more robust and more capabilities.

My order will be here on Thurs...so this weekend I am going to lock myself in the shop and play...maybe I will have some pics next week


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## sjidohair

charles,, please show pics,, , thanks for sharing,,


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## uber-mom

Is there any possible way I can use my Stika 12 to make patterns? I bought it off ebay about 3 years ago for the kiddos school projects etc. I know it came with the program to do engraving, the parts and stuff but have only used it for decals up to now. I have donated about 300 school pride decals to the PTA every year for festivals. I really wasn't in it for the money but got laid off recently and had to take a job paying $20,000 less. So I am thinking I could make up some of the $600 per month budget deficit with some rhinestone and decal items.


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## charles95405

uber-mom...do not think your Stika is supported. Here is a section of the release on roland's user forum on the software:

*Output devices supported in R-WearStudio:*
*1. Roland VersaWorks supported printer*
*2. Roland GX-24 cutter*
*3. Roland EGX Series Engravers (EGX-30, EGX-300 and EGX-350)*


Listing the GX24 is a bit misleading in that the cutter has nothing to do with rhinestone placement. It just means that you can use the new software to support cutting as you would do with Cut Studio. So for most who have the GX24 and Cut Studio or other cutting software, this program does not seem to be an advantage

My software etc from DAS is now on the FedEx truck for delivery...


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## Rawdacious

Can you point me to the video and program you are referring to? I really want to learn how to create my own rhinestone designs. Right now, I pay someone to do them for me and I am confident I can do it and keep that money in house! )


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## charles95405

for the video that shows cutting designs for rhinestones using a compatible vinyl cutter is located at Rhinestone Setting System


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## dlcompton

I finally gave up using software to create templates for hand placement and purchased the Roland EGX-350 with the Dr. Engrave software to make templates. Boy it is fast and easy. Roland is now offering a rhinestone template software that you could use to make paper templates to use as a guide for other attempts at making templates (using wood, acrylic, foam board, etc.). The biggest obstacle though is depth management which is why I went with an engraver. I'll probably try to market the templates for others in the future as the engraver investment isn't cheap.

Dorothy Compton, Bee Embroidered
http://www.BeeEmbroidered.com


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## DTFuqua

charles95405 said:


> uber-mom...do not think your Stika is supported. Here is a section of the release on roland's user forum on the software:
> 
> *Output devices supported in R-WearStudio:*
> *1. Roland VersaWorks supported printer*
> *2. Roland GX-24 cutter*
> *3. Roland EGX Series Engravers (EGX-30, EGX-300 and EGX-350)*
> 
> 
> Listing the GX24 is a bit misleading in that the cutter has nothing to do with rhinestone placement. It just means that you can use the new software to support cutting as you would do with Cut Studio. So for most who have the GX24 and Cut Studio or other cutting software, this program does not seem to be an advantage
> 
> My software etc from DAS is now on the FedEx truck for delivery...


Well? Did the fedex truck break down on the way to your house? Details please, details. Impressions,realities?


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## charles95405

Terry...The fedex truck go here...but I forgot what thread this was posted to!...anyway...here goes.

DAS system consists of a vinyl cutter, sand blast vinyl (I am on track for a lesser price for same), stone stencil software and most important is SmartCutPro 2. Since I already had a version of smartcut, I was able to upgrade the software..but you do have to buy the stone stencil package at about $499. My package contained that package, the upgrade to smartcutpro2, 75 yards of material, several small packs of rhinestones, and some minor tools..

The system works like this:
you can import a jpg image, have smartcut do contour lines, then move the vectored image out of way...delete the original. Size the image to what you want, the go to menu bar, select tools, then down to placement tool. you get a dialog box that you define the size stone, the distance between stones (this is not a true measurement between stones, but the distance center to center), decide if you want outline or fill. If you want to fill, you have some choices as to type of fill. click okay and presto you have the image ready to cut.

I found the program pretty easy to use, but then I have used smart cut and DAS programs for some time. You can get an image into Corel Draw, chose wire frame, save as jpg and import into smartcutpro2 and do the outline. I have not tried with AI, but assume it would be the same.

All in all I would rate the program as B+. I never rate anything as A as that would infer perfection!..The difference between Roland EGX350 and DAS is only in the method used to cut the stencil. The engraver can do other engraving but can't cut vinyl. The DAS system allows you do do very precise vinyl cutting. So choose which is more important to you. The DAS can do a 15x39 inch stencil..the Roland engraver can only do 12x9 inches.

I am attaching 4 photos. the first two are of a stencil made with DAS and the resulting rhinestone layout. The 3rd photo is a screen shot of some numbers and the last is the numbers with rhinestone placement.


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## DTFuqua

Wow, thanks.Will the Graphtec do the job of that precise cutting ?(the 24" one don't know the designation)Do you have a good idea how much just the two(?) pieces of software,smartcut pro and the stone stencil, are by theirselves? That would be all I would need lf I already have the cutter,rhinestones, and a suitable material (sand mask?) to make the templates with, right? Thanks and good luck.
Terry


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## ashamutt

DTFuqua said:


> Wow, thanks.Will the Graphtec do the job of that precise cutting ?(the 24" one don't know the designation)Do you have a good idea how much just the two(?) pieces of software,smartcut pro and the stone stencil, are by theirselves? That would be all I would need lf I already have the cutter,rhinestones, and a suitable material (sand mask?) to make the templates with, right? Thanks and good luck.
> Terry


 
Yes, I would like to know the answers to these same questions as well! 

I have the Graphtec CE5000-60 and everything else EXCEPT the software!!

wonder how much??


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## charles95405

On the issue of the graphtec...I plead absolute ignorance!...I would think the only really good answer would come from DAS. If you have a cutter, and just need the software..I would guess you would pay around $1700-$1800. I believe the smartcutpro2 is around $1300 plus the stencil software package..around $400-$500

If you did not have a cutter, DAS sells the GCC cutter and I think they brand it 'smartcutter' Anyway I know the GCC cutter works. In the GCC line, the 24 inch Puma III has an optic eye and would be the lowest I would go. I think that will cost around $1500. Besides DAS, Heatpressvinyl.com sells them. I don't know about the vendors on the forum

I know that smartcutpro2 is pricey, but you need to remember that it really is two products ungraded and on one disk. The two programs are VectorPro...a good vectorizing program and Smartcutpro2. One advantage is that you can design and cut from the same program without going back and forth between a vectorizing program and a cutting program. The cutting programs from DAS are (or at least used to be) CoCut, CocutPro and SmartcutPro...But only the new SmartcutPro2 will do rhinestones

As to the sandblast material, there seems to be several types..The one that DAS sells is a seaform green with a thin white backing. It is about 1mm or so thick and rather flexible. I got a sample from McLogan's in LA and it was a tan color and a bit stiff and while the cutter did cut the holes, you have to weed it manually and not suitable if you are doing a fill...otherwise just weeding an outline is not bad

With the Roland, I had to slow the speed down to 5cm/s, 240 downforce, 60 degree blade, 0.50 offset


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## mike2468

Making the templates can also be accomplished in corel draw very easily using the Interactive blend tool. Size the circles to whatever you want and fit them to the text. I then use our laser engraver to vector cut the circles.

My stencil could use a little tweaking yet but you get the idea anyway.


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## charles95405

Many of us have been cutting forever and one of these days I am gonna get it right!...I think I am supporting several vinyl supply houses!


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## sjidohair

Charles,,
You have been doing your research like me,,, 
Charles, i have been impresssed with your info you have been sharing with the templates,, Great job.
Have you found anything yet to put different stone sizes in the template yet, or color, say set up different templates for different colors, to set all on one mask?
That is one of the first things well maybe 2nd things i am gonna try.

I will let everyone know,, when it happens, for sure, and charles i love your posts,,,Thanks for taking some of the frustration out of making templates,


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## ashamutt

mike2468 said:


> Making the templates can also be accomplished in corel draw very easily using the Interactive blend tool. Size the circles to whatever you want and fit them to the text. I then use our laser engraver to vector cut the circles.
> 
> My stencil could use a little tweaking yet but you get the idea anyway.


Hey Mike! 

Thanks for the tip!
This will be a better way for me as I am not rich like sandy-jo and Roger!!!LOL(just kidding ya'll) 

Mike,
do you know of a thread or an online tutorial page that I can go to?....so as to learn this coreldraw trick???
Can you maybe write one?

I know photoshop , but when it comes to Corel , I feel as though I am lost in the forest!!!....like the Amazon one!!! LOL


....how about a step-by-step mike!?!?
....and what kind of material are you using?


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## plan b

Sandy the 2 color thing is pretty simple,,

You cut the template by color,, one part would be say a inside fill of green stones ,, make your template , add stones,, pull off with transfer tape, then do your template of what you are going to surround the fill with,, then use the tape you have the green stones on line it up with the surround and pull the stones from the template,,, and the end result is a 2 color transfer


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## sjidohair

Sweet, thanks roger,,,


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## sjidohair

I am not sure, but Roger might have a tuitoral, Pm roger,,,I think he does,,


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## plan b

One thing to remember these templates are shake and bake so if you want to start with a smaller stone while it can be done its a pain but can be done as I described on the color description or just hand set a few on your transfer.


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## mike2468

Mrs. Bacon,

Here are some links to (2) videos. I did not create this tutorial but it gives you the basic idea of using the interactive blend tool function in corel draw. Basically you substitute circles in the size you want them for the other objects in the tutotial and away you go. I use it for both outline and line fonts. The material I use right now is just some 110# weight cardstock in which I cut the template using our laser, works great.

Unzip the files and double click on the .exe link. You might get warning message but just ignore it.

Links:
www.precngraving.com/fitblend_rinestonescoreldraw.zip
www.precngraving.com/fitblend_pedro_rinestonescoreldraw2.zip


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## charles95405

What Roger described for a two color stone can be altered a bit to do a two color ...two size stones..or as I did recently..one color but two sizes. I made my template with the two sizes..then I brushed in the larger stone as they would not fall into the smaller holes, then I brushed in the smaller ones...not hard at all.

By the way...I have had a couple of emails about stones sizes and there is some confusion I think...The ss10 stone is NOT 3mm...it is 2.9mm ..if you want 3mm stones it is ss12 and you cut the hole at 3.3mm..Confused...so was I ... You can go online and download from several sites a mm to inch conversion chart as well..


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## charles95405

For those interested - here is an update showing 4 steps in a recent template I did with the DAS system. A forum member had contacted me for this and we went from there..After the template was done and shipped, the client changed their mind on the font style but it was corrected. I should add the photos were posted with the members permission.
photo 1 is the original jpg art - needed some touchup
photo 2 is the completed template
photo 3 is the filled in template (ss10)
photo 4 is the final press on material w/changed font

Of some note...the DAS system is much quicker than using Roland engraver


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## sjidohair

Looks good Charles,,


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## DTFuqua

hey Charles. Looks very good. I hope you don't mind my asking but what would you charge for a single piece job like that? I have no idea what to charge for this kinda of work. At first, I thought to charge by the time but that was unreasonable when doing every one by hand unless you had a lot of rich clients and thats something i'll never have. Now, with the das system, you don't have near as much time invested in each piece as hand setting but you do have a pretty large cash investment. Its realy hard to get a good idea what to sell for without just picking something out of the air. Also, what kind of discounts might you give for multiple pieces. I really appreciate your help with these matters. I need to do this transition into a new occupation for family reasons. I'm not looking to get rich, just need to make ends meet. Thank you and good luck.
Terry


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## allhamps

I thanked Charles personally, but I'd also like to take the time to thank him on the forum. I was considering purchasing the DAS system, but was still a little unsure. I asked him to allow me to be his test subject an do the template he displayed. I was hand placing these designs and needed 40 completed bags by 11/07/08. Just the rhinestone placement alone was approx 35 min per design. I got the template late Friday and started playing with it. Even though the customer had changed the wording portion, the main graphic was the same. Needless to say, once I got the hang of "shake & apply mylar", I was hooked. It takes about 5 min to complete the graphic from start to finish!!!! I spent Saturday hand placing the new wording, but that was nothing knowing I had everything else done. I've already lined up a ton of projects to work on and am looking forward to offering my loyal customers, through the long hand-placing period, a special discount on some of their custom designs once I'm up and running (my system is set to ship out on 11/07/08).

Thanks again Charles and you are the best!!!

Slick (Carol in MD)


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## cowpuncher007

Since we first started talking about templates, I've been working with a company in Texas. I do the layout work in Illustrator, and they make the templates. They're very reasonable, and everybody's happy. I will make my own some day, just not now. I am curious, though.

Seems like every new discussion brings more questions. Charles, is the material that you're using a sand blasting resist? You said you got some from McLogan's in L.A.. I went to their site, but couldn't find it. I'd like to get some to play with. Also, since it's a foam type material, have you noticed how it holds up to the rubbing & pushing that occurs when filling the template? 

It seems like all I need is this material and a cutter with the proper blade, the proper material depth potential, and sufficient down force to cut it. I don't need the software. I've worked out a system in AI for placement with adjustable spacing that's very accurate. It's not, of course, as fast as some of this software you've been discussing, but it doesn't need to be for my purpose.

What's the cheapest vinyl cutter anyone would recommend for this purpose? Remember, this cutter would only be used maybe a hundred and fifty times in a year. I have a little Stika machine for our little vinyls, and it works like a champ. It's just not beefy enough for the material we're talking about.


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## bob emb

Hello All

I have gotten stones from 3-4 different suppliers abroad and in the states. I have found from their reference charts that and ss10 can be anywere from 2.7 to 2.9 and the ss12 from 3-3.2 . How do you know what the exact size of a stone is when you make a template wether it is on viynl or hard board. I have read of stones not fitting into the template or falling through.

We do not have this problem as we use a CAMMS machine which sets the stones on transfer paper.

Does it create a time issue or do you just make another template if the stones do not fit.

Bob


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## sjidohair

*bob, You are right,,about the sizes of stones, depending on where you get them, I would think if had a manufacture, and you calipered, the stone, then you would know exactly.*
*then stick with that manufacture,,*
*Charles what do you think about this?*


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## charles95405

Sandy Jo is correct, I use a caliper (electronic, metric/inch-6inch) from harbor freight for $20. For designs I do, I use the same source and my size is really consistent. If you are working long distance then you need to be sure of the size the customer is using. The Roland EGX 350 recommends you cut the hole 0.2mm larger than the stone. DAS suggests 0.3mm larger. I use both and so far they work very well. 

For Steve, the material is a sand blast resist..or so it seems. The material I got from McLogan was a bit stiff and did not work well. I did not find it in their catalog, but I was in LA and went by their shop and they were kind enough to let me browse the inventory. I did find a site (Sign Supplies - Wensco Sign Supply) that seems to have the same material - seafoam green with thin white backing- I did not open an account so not sure of the price. I am contacting them this week for more information. So far the material from DAS holds up well. There is very little pressure on the material to sweep the stones in place. There are two major advantages to the DAS system over the Roland EGX 350 - 1) you are not limited to 9x12 template/design. 2) the DAS system is much MUCH faster to do...even if you slow down the cutter (as I did) to 5cm/s)


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## cowpuncher007

Thanks Charles. The reason I asked about the abuse to the surface is because of the way we do our things now. With the hardboard templates, I've found that the best way to fill them quickly is to, first, have a huge number of stones to work with. After that, use a combination of dipping, shaking, pushing and rubbing. The pushing and rubbing parts aren't very forceful, but firm. Just like learning anything else. All I know is that a simple bunny motif that used to take five to six minutes now takes about eight seconds. Whoopee!

I'm checking with Wensco about the mil thickness of their stencil materials. When you were cutting this material, what was the down force number, if you don't mind my asking?


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## charles95405

Steve...I think the downforce varies a bit. With the gx24 I used 240, speed 5 cm/s and 0.50 offset and a 60 degree blade.

I think that at DAS one person uses around 200 down force and another uses 220. Not sure what speed they use but they do use a 60 degree blade and their smartcut vinyl cutter..or the GCC Puma 3 or Jaguar cutter. I am setting up a Puma 3 this weekend and will let you know how that goes.


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## cowpuncher007

Thanks again Charles. I thought, the way people were talking, that it would be a much higher number. As I've said before, I found this forum when I bought my little Stika machine. I don't know much of anything about cutters. I'm learning, though, and that's the fun. I'm so silly that until someone, (probably you), mentioned downforce, I hadn't thought about the blade moving up and down. All I knew was that my little machine was just a wonder to behold. So much to learn in this life.


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## charles95405

Steve...it is not moving up and down for the downforce...but the pressure that the machine uses to cut thicker/heavier stuff.

Happy learning...and make $$$ !


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## cowpuncher007

I didn't articulate very well. I kind of crossed two thoughts. I know what downforce is, in this instance. I just meant that when I first got my machine, having never had any sort of CNC before, I didn't think about it moving along (3 ) axes.


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## biochickiee

charles, did you ever try out that sandblast mask? Did it work? Also, how thick (mm) is it? I am trying to find a similar product, thanks!


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## charles95405

I am getting close to finding the material...I think repeat think...that it is hartco sandblast resist. but have not actually seen in person..will let the forum know


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## allhamps

I know some of you don't like Sign Warehouse, but I believe they also have the same item. It is Hartco 535-S Sandmask and comes in 15x10 yds @ 77.00, 25x10 yds @ 117.05 and 30x10 yds @ 140.85. If it's usable, then this might be another source.


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## origirover

Hi ALL, I'm new to all this and i have been reading your comments, looking up several sites and am as unwise as ever, this is what i would like to do: I would like to make my own Rhinestone/Swarovski templates but i have no idea where to start at all...a complete novice! I played around with Coreldraw 12 and achieved mediocre results etc.... I would like to know where i should start, what software i need, what drilling/equipment i would need, what material i need for the template itself etc... I would like to do Egyptian designs for T/shirts etc.....i am from Ireland but I live in Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain so if any of you out there can give me good sound advice i would be very greatful, Kind Regards to all, Dave.


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## SandyM114

*Re: Lookimng for rhinestone transfers for team mascots*

I've looked at several web sites for someone selling mascot designs in rhinestones. I've founSandyd an eagle and a chieftan, but that's about it. Does anyone know where I can find team mascots in the rhinestones? Thanks.


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## sjidohair

Sandy,
I would post a ad in the classified section for a Transfer of the mascot you want,, or Template to make your own, however you want to do, It will be answered ,I am sure .


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## SandyM114

Thanks for the post. I did receive 3 offers to design my mascot. Sandy


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## sjidohair

Sandy ,
YOur very welcome,,


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## jpla

I just send out overseas to make it 
I didn't know how to make it until now
Video is always better than reading


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## allhamps

FYI for those of you looking to make rhinestone templates, check out the DAS Stone Stencil software. You can design your stencil and cut on your vinyl cutter. www.smartdesigns.com. I just got it and I am having a blast I've never used Corel Draw, but everything is so easy to learn, that I've jumped right in. See samples below of the original picture and the finished rhinestone design.


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## MsHutch

mike2468 said:


> Making the templates can also be accomplished in corel draw very easily using the Interactive blend tool. Size the circles to whatever you want and fit them to the text. I then use our laser engraver to vector cut the circles.
> 
> My stencil could use a little tweaking yet but you get the idea anyway.


Hi Mike! Just wondering what you use to make your templates on your laser engraver. Rowmark?

Thanks,

Colleen


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## rodsps

Hey Slickart I was checking that system out but I am afraid to call DAS and check the price. I am sure if they have it someone else will come out with it also. So may I ask approx. what it costs.


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## allhamps

It depends on what you already have, and what you need to get. You must have the following:


CorelDraw
ProCut2
Stone Stencil
Smart Designer
A vinyl cutter that works with the ProCut2 software
They also require that you get a "rhinestone set up package (rhinestones, the stencil material and some other stuff). I needed all of the software except the CorelDraw, and I added an extra roll of the stencil material ($75.00). All together, it cost me $2,700, including shipping. I also needed a new cutter, but I did not get it from DAS. They were offering the Jaguar IV at $2,700, but I picked up a Puma III for $1,500. Just as good and works great. Also, I discovered the "stencil material" is just sandblast mask and Sign Warehouse has it for almost 1/3 less, with twice as much on the roll. Overall, though, I love the system and know I will be able to recover my investment in no time. I just processed a large order of 85 items, nothing complicated, in 2 days (I was eating turkey ), when doing that by hand would have taken about 10 days. I've attached a few samples.


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## bob emb

Hello slick,

Your visa design looks really good. The great lake gymnastic design, is that the actual rhinestone design or the artwork for it. 

Bob


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## sjidohair

Hey slick, those look great,,
Keep up the great work.


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## allhamps

bob emb said:


> Hello slick,
> 
> Your visa design looks really good. The great lake gymnastic design, is that the actual rhinestone design or the artwork for it.
> 
> Bob


It's the rhinestone simulation of the completed design. The DAS system allows you to use two separate methods of simulating rhinestones to give the customer a better feel (not just the dots), for what the completed design will look like. I'll take a picture of an actual one once I'm finished with the order.


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## Friday's

Do any of you know any supplies for rhinestones and the backing material located in Canada? Any help would be great.

Thanks Chris


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## sjidohair

Chris, 
from http://www.hypnotikwear.com ships to canada, and has great prices


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## Friday's

Thanks Sandy

Almost done ordering but have one last question. In that video on Stone Stencils website they use a green sheet to cut the template with what is this? I have searched for sandblast material but all that I can find is this very thin film that to me doesn't make sense as it is not thick enough to hold the stones in place. Any links or where I can find this material would be great.

Thanks Chris


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## allhamps

Try this. Sign Supplies and Equipment: 425-S Sandmask - 15 inch x 10 yds NP - Low Price Guarantee

It looks the same, but I just ordered some to check it out.


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## cowpuncher007

what thickness is this material?


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## DTFuqua

Wally world is doing it to us too. I was in the crafts dept looking for a paper cutter to cut magnetic rolls and found hot fix rhinestone designs for $1.97.Its getting to where the only thing a person can make a decent dollar on is custom work be it a rhinestone desing, a sign, or a shirt. Good luck y'all. I'm thinking about insuring the old wrecker and going back to doing repo work. If Cathy gets well enough for me to be able to depend on a sitter, I probably will. 
Terry


----------



## charles95405

Agree....I don't do anything but custom work


----------



## plan b

Custom work is the only way to go along with doing logo's in rhinestones


----------



## veedub3

DTFuqua said:


> Wally world is doing it to us too. I was in the crafts dept looking for a paper cutter to cut magnetic rolls and found hot fix rhinestone designs for $1.97.Its getting to where the only thing a person can make a decent dollar on is custom work be it a rhinestone desing, a sign, or a shirt. Good luck y'all. I'm thinking about insuring the old wrecker and going back to doing repo work. If Cathy gets well enough for me to be able to depend on a sitter, I probably will.
> Terry


I wouldn't worry too much as Hobby Lobby, Michael's and many other craft stores have been doing the same thing for many many years. Pick up one, press it on a shirt, then put it in the wash. Most of the design will fall right off. You will be picking rhinestones out of the washer. They are very poor quality and as soon as a person tries them they will be right back.

Also keep in mind that they do not have the stylish designs we can crank out only a very, very small sample and they are cheesy at best. At least at the Wal-mart in my neck of the woods.

Veedub3


----------



## sjidohair

Chris, I am going to send a pm to you to tell you where to get this material


----------



## sjidohair

and i agree about the custom work,, 95% of my stuff is custom for someone,, the other 5% is custom for my designs in like and want to sell. in my stores.


----------



## Kleverrr1

sjidohair said:


> I am going to send a pm to you to tell you where to get this material


Sandy Jo,
Send me this same PM Please.... Thanks


----------



## earl

Kleverrr1 said:


> Sandy Jo,
> Send me this same PM Please.... Thanks


me as well please


----------



## sjidohair

Duke of Earl, lol
I will pm, the info to you,


----------



## sjidohair

I just wanted everyone to know this is not sandy jo's post, it is one that was brought over from another thread,,thanks



sjidohair said:


> well this is gonna get good. I'm fortunate in the space part of the deal. I have a spare bedroom and when i sell the wrecker, i'll have a small garage. I have to work at home for personal reasons ( more than just "doesn't play well with others"). If any of ya'll noticed that i'm trying to get info in quite a few area, that is the reason. Not attention deficiate disorder. Sorry, computer with spell check is down.
> Anyway, wallyworld has a craft dept that sells small sheets of plastic that might/should work. I tried to use a hand drill without much luck. With a drill press (cheap harbour freight) and some claamps, i believe i can get a decent template. The first one i did, i just used a spray adhesive on two sheets and stuck them together, the one i drilled the pattern into and one without any holes at all. I think it wouldn't have been all that bad if my expectations weren't so high. I was hoping to get them to do like in the videos and just shake them into place with no more than a light brushing off and have a perfect pattern. Next one wil be a mix of shaker and hand set. Maybe not as fast as the videos but faster than an exacto and sticky sheet method. (i wish i hadn't desttroyed the first one trying to make it better) actually, the first one was two layers plactic drilled through(trying to get depth correct) and the third sheet was glued whole to the drilled ones for the backer. I glued the first two together before drilling. Well, thats what i have done aand experianced so far so you might know a little more thaan five minutes ago. I learn something almost every time i read posts here.


----------



## sjidohair

This is not sandy jo's post, it was brought over from antoher post, from someone else.



sjidohair said:


> holy crap, that video is a hour long and i only watched the first 30 or so minutes initially...that software is even better than i thought....well worth it, if you are serious and have the money which i do not! Again, like i said, just a kitchen table guy who recently got laid off...
> 
> For instance, i now have a order for a shirt simply saying blessed in a cursive font. To look right, the stones would have to follow the text and the stone size would need to get smaller and bigger to show the cursive style. There is no way to do this in corel, except by hand....
> Which isnt, that bad, cuz like he said...you only have to do it once...
> But check out the video at 44:50 into it...
> 
> My *tod* time of death was at exactly 46:14!
> 
> Dude just typed the cursive text, just like what i need and rhinestone placement adjusted for space and size, he simply typed a damn word....that was amazing!!!!
> 
> Not too mention, the label they include, way to apply with vinyl transfers, etc....
> 
> Wt heck, do i know...i'm a total noob, just trying to get something going...lol
> 
> i think they are complete, geniuses and thiefs!
> Got to hand it to them though, they seen the market, realized what folks needed and designed it. So now they charge a pretty hefty price tag....
> I see no better or efficient software, and feel that even at that price tag..... If you are going to be serious...which i aspire to...at some point, it may justified.
> 
> Using the order example he talks about in the first 3 minutes, which i think is definitely legitimate and do-able. The lady profited....$1,840.....i think that about covers it!!!!
> 
> So...blah, blah, blah....i'm sticking with my slightly inferior method, that i hope will work, and put this on the shelf for future use.
> 
> But, i still need that light green material that they used....no hits yet...


----------



## allhamps

Everyone, Sign Warehouse has the "stone stencil" material. I just got my shipment and it is definitely the same stuff. See below:

*Code**Name**Price**Quantity*VHRT-425-SP-15425-SP Sandmask - 15 inch x 10 yds Perf$87.70 VHRT-425-S-15425-S Sandmask - 15 inch x 10 yds NP$60.85 VHRT-425-S-20425-S Sandmask - 20 inch x 10 yds NP$76.60 VHRT-425-S-25425-S Sandmask - 25 inch x 10 yds NP$89.45 VHRT-425-SP-30425-S Sandmask - 30 inch x 10 yds Perf$161.45 VHRT-425-S-30425-SP Sandmask - 30 inch x 10 yds NP$110.80


----------



## sjidohair

Thank you, now post us a pic after you are dont making a template please,, is this material, kinda green?


----------



## charles95405

I will probably stay with DAS for material simply because if there are in problems in cutting or weeding or...?? If one is using DAS software/material, I am sure any tech support issues will be resolved easier.


----------



## sjidohair

great point charles,,


----------



## allhamps

Yes, it's a light, bluish-green color. Do you want a picture of the template and the finished product?


----------



## sjidohair

Yes slick I would love a pic, this material is a nice material if I am thinking of the right stuff, feels kinda rubbery, I had some samples send to me, from a rhinestone template cutter that is almost of out production, that i have my name on one that is coming to my house,, lol I cant wait,, anyway,
the material is kinda lime green like kiwi cheescake, and rubbery,,,
Have you cut any yet,, and what are you cutting it with ?


----------



## allhamps

Yeah, that sounds like it. I can send you a piece to confirm if you'd like. I'm using a Puma III with a 60 degree blade. I generally set my cut force at 180 for 2mm and 170 for 3mm or larger. It really depends on the depth of your blade though. Once I put my blade in, I found it was easier to adjust the down force than to keep trying to adjust the depth of the blade. I've got tons of things done, I've had my stone stencil system since about 11/13/08. I'll post some later tonight.


----------



## sjidohair

I will look forward to seeing the pics,, 
Thanks


----------



## allhamps

Here's a simple one. I hope you can see the template.


----------



## sjidohair

slick that looks great,,


----------



## allhamps

Here are a few others I've done with Stone Stencil.


----------



## allhamps

sjidohair said:


> slick that looks great,,


 
Hey, that little monkey on your website looks cool. I'd love to take a stab at that just for the fun of it. If you'd like, send me a picture to [email protected]. I promise not to sell it - just give it to you if it works out


----------



## plan b

Look at you SJ you got a black shirt!!!! YAAAAAAAAAhoOO


----------



## earl

congratulations sandy jo :0)

regards earl


----------



## sjidohair

Thanks boys, you 2 are the first to have noticed,,, 
thanks a ton,, boys,, you 2 are very special,,,


----------



## earl

awww shucks


----------



## Kleverrr1

Hey Sandy Jo,

!!! Congratulations !!! on the black shirt, you really have helped a lot of people with your great posts.


----------



## sjidohair

Chris,
Thank you, I have gotten a ton of help myself,, 
good to hear from you chris,, 
we will have to chat soon.
by the way,, i put stones on top of vinyl the other day ,, it they settled right in, and adhered beautifully


----------



## audihenry

Whoa this looks good!


----------



## tshirtnewbie69

Sorry, I guess I missed which software and equipment you were talking about. Is it the Das instead of corel? I am so lost as to which to purchase : (

thanks


----------



## tshirtnewbie69

sjidohair said:


> Chris, I am going to send a pm to you to tell you where to get this material


Please can I get this too. I need all the help I can get : )
thanks


----------



## Needles & Ink

RHINESTONE HELL!

Ok everyone, I have been out of the loop for a minute, getting my store and things together..but i am currently experiencing rhinestone hell!

I bought the rhinestone system from DAS about 2 months ago, used it a few times, But could not get the software working on my 2 VISTA desktops, only on the laptop that is running XP. I contacted support, and never recieved a fix, but i wasnt stressing over it, because i had other things going on.

Well today, i planned to screenprint a nice design that would be embellished with stones, and Ive been troubleshooting the software all day with DAS techs...Still not working. And now after they offered me some additional files to add to my scripts folder, i put the dongle back into the laptop, and now the labtop isnt working properly!

I am soo fustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is there anyone else who is using the DAS rhinestone system and having issues?
My error is Line 59, Active X. The placing tool will not work..and that is the main tool to place the rhinestones!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyone who has remedy'd this issue and hae a functioning Smart Cut PRo2 ?


----------



## sjidohair

contact charles95405 on the forum here, go back one page and private message him, i think he uses that system.
Please let us know what you learn as this will help others.


----------



## Needles & Ink

Thanks for that! I have PM'd Charles, I will post keep you posted on how I resolve this issue. The placing tool is the main tool that translates the design to stones, and that is where I am recieving my error( line 59). So I am seriously at a standstill!


----------



## sjidohair

Hang on, charles is on alot, he will get back to you,, here is another member, plan b,, try to see if he can help you, I am waiting for my machine to finsih production,, it will be vista ready thank goodnes, Charles know a ton, so hang on,


----------



## charles95405

I have had the problem on occasion and still do not know why..it seems that the program does not like certain files I import...and for NAI...did you know that on the DAS site, under support there is a patch for Vista?

I am going to contact DAS again tomorrow and see what they say..

NAI...shut down the program...open again and just draw a box or line...and then try placing...I bet it will work...which means there is something about the files we are working with...


----------



## sjidohair

charles thanks for Helping Nai, I know nothing about this program, so I was no help.
thank you


----------



## charles95405

Sandy Jo...this seems to be a problem with certain files I try to import...not all..just some and I have not found a common denominator to isolate the problem...I have bumped this up to DAS with copy of image and error print out


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## sjidohair

I deal with something like this with signblazer for reg files as well.
sometimes it likes it sometimes it doesn't?lol


----------



## allhamps

Hey Charles, I told NAI I was having the same problem. However, it only seems to happen to me when I tried to copy and paste from Corel or AI to SmartCut Pro2. Then I get that error. I have to save the file and close out of SmartCut. Once I open it back up, everything works fine. I am using XP. I have also noticed that I can't import all of my .esp files. Some of them work and some of them dont . I'm not savy enough to know if there is a difference in my files, or if it is DAS. I haven't had the time to sit on the phone with them, but I do plan to join in so that they can get this issue resolved. This stuff was too expensive to have to "work around" things to finish a job. Thanks for the input from both of you.


----------



## sjidohair

slick thanks for the input and trying to help nai


----------



## sjidohair

guys i want to thank both of you for trying to help nai tonight, there is nothing more frustrating then trying to get something done and it jsut does not work, we have all been there,and will be there again. thanks for taking the time as we are all scrambling to fill last minute orders and find time to make things for our own loved ones.


----------



## charles95405

well that makes three of us experiencing this..I am sure DAS will look into this since they are now a sponsor and will want to get to the bottom issue


----------



## EXTouch

allhamps said:


> Hey Charles, I told NAI I was having the same problem. However, it only seems to happen to me when I tried to copy and paste from Corel or AI to SmartCut Pro2. Then I get that error. I have to save the file and close out of SmartCut. Once I open it back up, everything works fine. I am using XP. I have also noticed that I can't import all of my .esp files. Some of them work and some of them dont . I'm not savy enough to know if there is a difference in my files, or if it is DAS. I haven't had the time to sit on the phone with them, but I do plan to join in so that they can get this issue resolved. This stuff was too expensive to have to "work around" things to finish a job. Thanks for the input from both of you.


I'm glad I popped back into this thread. 

My cutter and DAS software are both running on Vista, very few problems. 

I think I might have gotten that error once, but I had NO IDEA what made it happen and it never did it again.


----------



## tnakazawa

*Template material*

What type of material is being used to make rhinestone templates with a flatbed cutter?
Many Thanks,
Thomas


----------



## BML Builder

We use oil boards in our laser. We buy them in 24 X 36" sheets and can make a lot of templates with one sheet. We buy them from Uline for under $100 for about 108 sheets.


----------



## allhamps

Will this cut in a regular cutter or would it serve as a good backer board to the stencil material that DAS has (sort of a sand mask vinyl)? I don't like the paper backer boards I got from DAS because they are too small and too flexible. I've been buying the large sheets of foam board, but this is starting to get expensive.


----------



## sjidohair

In my expirementing,, I have been using Poster board,, but it is kind of bendy,,,
but cheap untill i get this all figured out,,, I have considered going to the dollar store for plastic folders to cut apart for the backer board as well,, I think i heard about that before on here,,
Sandy Jo


----------



## earl

i can cut 4mm holes in mylar with my ctn 630 from u s cutter


----------



## sjidohair

duke it that you?
what kind of Mylar are you using?
Sandy Jo MMM


----------



## earl

hey sandy jo, i used the blank stencil mylar sheets from jo-ann's. 

they are with the already cut stencils.

regards duke


----------



## sjidohair

duke can you take a pic for me, and show me,, and is it like plastic?
Have you pushed stones in them?
thanks
MMM


----------



## earl

yes i have pushed stones in them. i just cut a random pattern. i have not got my system perfected yet,but i will be working on it.

the sheet is "PLAID SIMPLY STENCILS"
i hope pic works


----------



## sjidohair

duke of earl, 
what force are you using,? and 45 or 60 blade?
Looks good,,
is it deep enough to catch the stones,, and hold them?
Sandy jo


----------



## earl

i think i was using 150 force, 45d blade, i had no 60d at that time, but i will use 60d next time ,30 speed,and yes they sit nicely 
regards earl


----------



## sjidohair

Thanks duke,,I slow my speed down also when cutting my lil circles,, to like 8 or 5 nice and slow and make nice complete circles..
I am going to go pick some stencil stuff up tomrrow and give it a shot,, I am waiting for some other product, but i have a big order that i could use a stencil with, tomorrow..

Sandy Jo


----------



## mrsmorse

I would like to know more about using a laser to do a template for rhinestones. I have had my laser for a couple of years and had no idea that there was a material "oil boards" that could be used. could you explain? thanks


----------



## sjidohair

Mrs, Morse,, 
I cannot help you with laser, but there are others on here that can, charles is awesome with alot of the rhinestone details,, pm, him, I think he had a laser set up before,, That is the only part of this sparkling business, i have not touched,, YET!!!!
lol
Sandy Jo


----------



## allhamps

Hey Charles, Sandy Jo, I need help! All of a sudden, my Puma III is not cuttin full circles. It leaves just a little nick, which means my circles won't peel from the backing. I've tried everything, except changing the blade, because I just put a new one in and that is when the problem started. Is there anything I can do except try a new blade?


----------



## sjidohair

You but a new blade in,, ! so it cant be the blade,, 
Can you do a test on a piece of vinyl, and tell me if it does it,!
I will be on to help you,, please go test on vinyl i will wait.
Sandy Jo


----------



## sjidohair

This would be my check list
Check blade
Test cut
Reset
Check Wheels to make sure you are on track with your carridge.
are you rollers rolling for proper feed, or do they need to be tightened
check offset
unplug your cable ,serial or usb. and plug back in so drivers reset and reboot your computer
let me know if any of these help.
or if you need more help!
Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## allhamps

Uggg! I went through the check list. No change. This is driving me crazy. I was getting nice perfect circles, now they look sort of ovalish, with that little tick not cut out. I've adjusted everything I could possibly think of. With my old cutter, I had a feature that would allow you to do an "over cut" which would take care of that little tick, but I can't find my Puma book, and I don't know if that feature exists. Thanks, I guess I'll have to go to the Puma site and see what I can figure out.


----------



## sjidohair

Doyou have rogers plan B's Email address he knows a lot about puma 111
If not,, get him at www.heatpressvinyl.com
Sandy
Let me know if you get it,, i will keep thinking also
sorry i could not help


----------



## allhamps

Thanks, I'll play with it a little more before I bug Roger


----------



## sjidohair

I think he can help,, he sells the units, 
and knows alot about them.
I just talked to him a few minutes ago, so i know he is around,,
Good luck, there is nothing more frustrating,, 
The only other thing i can think it is Static,, throws machines off sometimes, wipe down the cutter with a fabric sheet, and the underside of what you are cutting,,
Sandy Jo


----------



## charles95405

Make sure you have a 60 degree blade...not a 45..and make sure your blade is extending the correct amount...the feature you referred to about overcutting is called the offset...that is found on the front panel of the Puma and must be set when the machine is in the adjust model..set the offset at 60..not 50...try that and see...also you can call GCC...they have good support or email DAS..they are very good about either emailing back or calling you..

let me know how it goes


----------



## allhamps

Thanks Sandy Jo and Charles. I got it. I don't know what I did to make it wrong, but I restored all the machines defaults, and then put it to the settings that Charles gave me (which is what I thought I had from day one). I'm back to perfect little circles now.

Hey Sandy Jo, PM me with your e-mail so I can send you the crosses. I actually have a whole cd with religious symbols that I can drop in the mail to you. 

Thanks again for everyone's help.

HAPPY 'STONING!!!


----------



## sjidohair

Woohoooo,
I am so glad that you are back up and running, there is nothing worse than, having a machine down and spending hours trying to figure it out, with hopes it will work..
I will pm , you, I would love it if you would share the crosses.. I will recreate them, but it is great to have a starting place..
thanks
MonkeyMeMe


----------



## BML Builder

mrsmorse said:


> I would like to know more about using a laser to do a template for rhinestones. I have had my laser for a couple of years and had no idea that there was a material "oil boards" that could be used. could you explain? thanks


Sorry it took me so long to respond to this, but I have been out sick and just now was able to get back and respond. I hope this helps anyone interested.

We just use Corel to make our templates. They are sometimes time consuming if they are really intricate, but we just use the brushes and fills for the different sizes and colors of stones. If you are going to do the brush and fill method you are better off doing a separate template for each color and size, but you can do that with the different pages in Corel. We just take the original full design and put in all of the sizes and colors on the first page, the you highlight all the circles for one size or one color, then copy & paste them to the next page. Then you just do that with each color and size until you have all of the different sizes and colors on separate pages. Then you send the different pages to the laser to be cut from the oil boards. Then you take the separate templates one at a time and fill with the stones and mask, then take the mask off the first template and place over the next template filled with stones and continue until you have all of the stones from the design aligned on the mask. Then you can either go ahead and heat press the design to the shirt or object it will be attached to or you can put the mask on some backing paper to be used later. 
I hope this has given you a starting point. We have been watching the programs that are coming out, but right now all of them are designed around you buying a start up package and not using the equipment you already. I am like you and do not want to have to buy a cutter or an engraver just to do the rhinestones when we can already do it with what we already have. Yes I think that there should be another program that can be used like Corel with whatever equipment you may already have and I think if we wait a liitle longer we will see that come out. 
Just one other suggestion, if you do not get thre holes the exact size they need to be for the stone, just spray the oil board with some adhesive and attach it it a piece of cardstock paper so that the stones do not fall through. 
If I can help anymore feel free to let me know. I think you can do a good job without having to buy a whole other system to do them and you can add to the products that you already offer. That has been what we have tried to do a little at a time, so that one day we may be able to do whatever the customer wants without having to send them out to someone else or contract it out and maybe get their things back to them a lot faster and less expensive. 

Thanks,
Marilyn
BML Builders


----------



## lovespink

Hi,

I'm new to this forum but was interested in the ctn 630 from u s cutter because of it's price. Can you use the ctn 630 cutter to make vinyl templates to make hotfix crystal patterns? Thanks, DeeDee


----------



## sjidohair

Hey Dee Dee,
Welcome, i am not familiar with that machine, but i can help you with the software area,,,
You will need a design program, like Das , if you already have a cutter as they sell their program, separate,
If you are looking for engraving Roland has a nice system as well.
If you have bought your program yet,, The eagle ultraforce system is a whole system, in one,
and then we have the cam system machines that totally once you have designed make the transfer for you.
If you have any more questions, let me know I will be glad to help
Sandy Jo
MonkeyMeMe


----------



## charles95405

If you want to do rhinestone templates with a vinyl cutter....you really have just a few choices, which I list below, but since you have the 630, you should call DAS to see if that machine is support...I sort of doubt it, but not sure...for those starting out the choices are:
1) buy the DAS system w/ a puma III or Jaguar cutter..cost 4k to 5.5k...depending on how you order
2) buy the new Eagle Ultra Force....cost around $3499
3) buy a Roland GX24 and Roland R-Wear..cost about $2500

With the Roland, you have to design the rhinestone template in R Wear and import it into Cut Studio, then cut. I am told this is possible but I have never done this. I have designed in R-Wear, imported into Cut Studio but did not cut as I no longer have the GX24

If there is another system to cut rhinestone templates with a vinyl cutter, I have not heard of it


----------



## mrsmorse

BML Builder said:


> Sorry it took me so long to respond to this, but I have been out sick and just now was able to get back and respond. I hope this helps anyone interested.
> 
> We just use Corel to make our templates. They are sometimes time consuming if they are really intricate, but we just use the brushes and fills for the different sizes and colors of stones. If you are going to do the brush and fill method you are better off doing a separate template for each color and size, but you can do that with the different pages in Corel. We just take the original full design and put in all of the sizes and colors on the first page, the you highlight all the circles for one size or one color, then copy & paste them to the next page. Then you just do that with each color and size until you have all of the different sizes and colors on separate pages. Then you send the different pages to the laser to be cut from the oil boards. Then you take the separate templates one at a time and fill with the stones and mask, then take the mask off the first template and place over the next template filled with stones and continue until you have all of the stones from the design aligned on the mask. Then you can either go ahead and heat press the design to the shirt or object it will be attached to or you can put the mask on some backing paper to be used later.
> I hope this has given you a starting point. We have been watching the programs that are coming out, but right now all of them are designed around you buying a start up package and not using the equipment you already. I am like you and do not want to have to buy a cutter or an engraver just to do the rhinestones when we can already do it with what we already have. Yes I think that there should be another program that can be used like Corel with whatever equipment you may already have and I think if we wait a liitle longer we will see that come out.
> Just one other suggestion, if you do not get thre holes the exact size they need to be for the stone, just spray the oil board with some adhesive and attach it it a piece of cardstock paper so that the stones do not fall through.
> If I can help anymore feel free to let me know. I think you can do a good job without having to buy a whole other system to do them and you can add to the products that you already offer. That has been what we have tried to do a little at a time, so that one day we may be able to do whatever the customer wants without having to send them out to someone else or contract it out and maybe get their things back to them a lot faster and less expensive.
> 
> Thanks,
> Marilyn
> BML Builders


Thank you. I got a sample of oil board and the laser cuts the holes great, but could not get the stones to fall into place, or too big. So I will try the spray adhesive and card stock underneath... Great idea, I guess 
one has to be thinking out of the box and not afraid to try stuff. I am also thinking of trying some Rowmark sign material and not go all the way through. Thanks again


----------



## ReneBraches

Hi everybody,
does someone know to make fills in Coreldraw (rhinestone patterns)
Thanks in advance.


----------



## HuMJohn

ReneBraches said:


> Hi everybody,
> does someone know to make fills in Coreldraw (rhinestone patterns)
> Thanks in advance.


You should look into, both, blends and fills. You could use blend to create a series of circles along a path, and look at using fill to file an object with a pattern of circles.


----------



## ReneBraches

HuMJohn said:


> You should look into, both, blends and fills. You could use blend to create a series of circles along a path, and look at using fill to file an object with a pattern of circles.


Thanks a lot. 
"Blending along a path" , that's O.K for me.
But "filling an object with a pattern of circles" I still do not understand how to get there. I am using a German version of X4. Could you please give me a more detailed (step by step) instruction? Thanks alot in advance.
Rene


----------



## HuMJohn

Look at the help for using the envelope tool. First, create a large pattern of circles and then use the envelope tool to place the pattern inside an object or text. You may want to save the pattern for future use in future rhinestone template creation.


----------



## rhinestoneshirts

I am too interested in learning how to fill a pattern with circles. I have mastered the blend and sprayer but I have to manually place any fills I do. Is there a faster way to fill an object with circles. I have corel x3 and x4


----------



## ReneBraches

HuMJohn said:


> Look at the help for using the envelope tool. First, create a large pattern of circles and then use the envelope tool to place the pattern inside an object or text. You may want to save the pattern for future use in future rhinestone template creation.


Hi,
thanks for your quick reply.
I tried all options with the envelope tool, but the circles (3 mm) will change their shape and became anything else but a circle, ellipses in different shapes and sizes. What went wrong?
Rene


----------



## siemed

I'm also very interested in how to use the fill method.


----------



## HuMJohn

ReneBraches said:


> Hi,
> thanks for your quick reply.
> I tried all options with the envelope tool, but the circles (3 mm) will change their shape and became anything else but a circle, ellipses in different shapes and sizes. What went wrong?
> Rene


Sorry for my misuse of the wording.

First, create your objects that you want filled with stones. Then create your stone pattern (the pattern of stone placement within the design, such as even rows or staggered rows, etc.). Group the pattern of circles. Now click, to select, the object that you want to fill with the stone pattern (make sure it has no fill, as in using the 'X' from the palette to give a transparent fill). Then with the object selected, click on (the menu item)Effects->Power Clip->Place Inside Container. Then click on the grouped pattern of dots. Done.

(I used the words 'Fill', which does not describe the tool, but does describe the desired effect. I apologize for leading you guys astray. )

EDIT: OOPS! I got that backwards.
Select the group of dots then menu->Effects->Power Clip->Place Inside Container and then click the object to be filled...... (Dumb me!)


----------



## siemed

Thanks! But, when I do it like this it is not possible to degroup it again. And if some circles are at the border I can not move them anymore. How do you fix that?


----------



## HuMJohn

I think I opened a can of worms, as I usually use short (almost) one-word replies to threads...

Anyway, I played around some more. Here is what works for me.

When you create your pattern of fill dots, do not group them together. Keep them totally ungrouped. Then apply the pattern as a powerclip as I have described (you have to select the entire pattern of dots with the pick tool), then do the Effects->Power Clip->Place Inside...). Once placed inside a container, then do Effects->Power Clip->Edit Contents. That will make the entire dot pattern completely visible (as if it was not inside the object container), there you can delete those 'half-dots', the ones that you do not want. Then do a Effects->Power Clip->Finished Editing.... That will put the dot pattern 'back inside of the container' and your dots around the edge, that you deleted, will be gone.


----------



## siemed

Thank you very much!


----------



## sjidohair

Hugh,
thanks for the explaination, this will be great for users that dont have software and want to do some designs,,,
thank you for taking the time to share this,
Sandy Jo


----------



## HuMJohn

You're welcome.


----------



## ReneBraches

Thanks a lot. It works. 
It seems to be become a tedious job doing this all day long.
Do you or someone else know, where to buy specialized software to do this? I know DAS is pretty expensive, too expensive for me. But as I have learned there are others like Rhinestoneworx etc. but I did not find out where to buy, on their homepages there are no prices or download links. I have a licensed version of SmartCut Pro 6.x. How much is it to upgrade to version 2.0? and what else do I need at what price from DAS?
I am living in Germany (Bonn) and here it is nearly impossible to get any information.
Again, thanks a lot. I hope to hear from you or someone else soon.
By by
Rene


----------



## Stitch-Up

R-Wear from Roland does the job.


----------



## HuMJohn

ReneBraches said:


> Thanks a lot. It works.
> It seems to be become a tedious job doing this all day long.
> Do you or someone else know, where to buy specialized software to do this? I know DAS is pretty expensive, too expensive for me. But as I have learned there are others like Rhinestoneworx etc. but I did not find out where to buy, on their homepages there are no prices or download links. I have a licensed version of SmartCut Pro 6.x. How much is it to upgrade to version 2.0? and what else do I need at what price from DAS?
> I am living in Germany (Bonn) and here it is nearly impossible to get any information.
> Again, thanks a lot. I hope to hear from you or someone else soon.
> By by
> Rene


One thing you may want to do, is to create your pattern of dots for a stone size (such as SS16 size stones) and save that pattern. Then when you need to create a new design, using a stone size of SS16, use the pattern that you created earlier. Yes, it does take time to create a pattern of dots, but once you have the pattern for a certain stone size saved, you can use it over and over again.

Besides the designs, you need a means of physically creating the rhinestone template, either an engraving machine or a vinyl cutter that can cut sand blast stencil material. Then you need a supply of rhinestones and the transfer tape that will take the pattern of stones from the template to the garment. And a heat press to apply them, if they are heat applied stones. Yes, that is a lot of money, and most of it goes into the stones and the machine that is used to create the templates. If you have a machine (engraving or plotter), then you will save a couple thousand dollars (U.S.), if that machine is able to create the rhinestone templates. It is like any other part of this industry, it takes some money to get started, but once you have everything and have learned how to use them effectively, then you will probably earning enough to more than justify the expense of the investment.


----------



## sjidohair

Stitch up,, you just got your software, for rhinestones, and now i saw it on sale in the classifieds, what happened
I cant believe you dont love it,, 
pm me..
Sandy jo


----------



## mike2468

ashamutt said:


> Hey Mike!
> 
> Thanks for the tip!
> This will be a better way for me as I am not rich like sandy-jo and Roger!!!LOL(just kidding ya'll)
> 
> Mike,
> do you know of a thread or an online tutorial page that I can go to?....so as to learn this coreldraw trick???
> Can you maybe write one?
> 
> I know photoshop , but when it comes to Corel , I feel as though I am lost in the forest!!!....like the Amazon one!!! LOL
> 
> 
> ....how about a step-by-step mike!?!?
> ....and what kind of material are you using?


Here is a link with several Corel tips and tricks
YouTube - alexisgalvez's Channel


----------



## RhinestoneFetish

Glad to see the corel info. I am going to try it out


----------



## hls1621

Hey everyone! I have read through this whole thread and many others, but I am still having a dilemma choosing equipment. 

Forgive me, but I am very new to this. As of right now, all I have is Corel X3, a 15x15 heat press, and heat transfer paper.

I do have a budget, but I am looking to get into vinyl cutting, contour cutting heat transfers, and also making rhinestone templates.

Is there a machine that can do all 3 of these functions? If not, any suggestions on what machines to get?

Thanks!

Heather


----------



## sjidohair

Heather, I have the eagle, You can cut vinyl twill or alot of other products with this machine, it has a laser alignment for contour cutting, and great downforce to cut thru template material,
It comes with software,, there is also a larger machine than mine, that is huge,, cant remember the name,, and then there is a smaller version that does all these features and software some with that also, do a search on here about a new rhinestone machine or the eagle and you will see
links to find out more info,


----------



## IslandGirl

Hi Heather,

I am new as well and decided to go with the Falcon. It can do everything you mentioned as far as I know, and it's at an excellent price when compared to other systems. They also have a larger cutter called the Eagle. You can check it out here The Eagle
I have been dealing with Roger and he has been excellent at answering all of my questions. My "baby eagle" should be here next week!


----------



## hls1621

Thanks Sandy and Rhonda!

I would deffinately go with the Falcon just because of my bugjet, but it seems like a very cool machine! I am going to look into it some more...


----------



## sjidohair

dont forget the vectorizing magic in this system,, that alone is a great feature, as well as the sign, goodies that are built into this software..


----------



## hls1621

sjidohair said:


> dont forget the vectorizing magic in this system,, that alone is a great feature, as well as the sign, goodies that are built into this software..


Are you referring to the software that comes with the Falcon?

Also, how does this machine compare to the Roland gx-24?


----------



## sjidohair

Yes, I am referring to the software that comes with the falcon and eagle, 
I wont compare to Roland or Rolands programs or others, we have a lot of good machines and software available to us, finding the machine that is right for you is the Right Machine.
Sandy Jo


----------



## hls1621

That is very true, but the Roland gx-24 has the ability to do all of the same functions as the Falcon and Eagle?


----------



## Guylaine

Kleverrr1 said:


> Sandy Jo,
> Send me this same PM Please.... Thanks


Sandy Jo, can you sent to me the pm please. Thanks


----------



## sjidohair

Remind me what the conversation was about,, lol
Thanks
Sandy jo


----------



## Vicki Flores

sjidohair said:


> Chris, I am going to send a pm to you to tell you where to get this material


Would you send me the info for this material please? Thanks!


----------



## sjidohair

you can get the material at 
The Eagle
please feel free to share any tips and secrets that you have 
Thanks
SandY jo


----------



## DTFuqua

Ok if you want some options, look at the roland gx-24 and the R-WARE software as an add on and compair the prices.


----------



## allhamps

If you want an alternative to the stencil material, try this: Sign Supplies and Equipment: SandBlast 425S & 425SP - Low Price Guarantee

It works well.


----------



## DTFuqua

the 425s is what I have. The P = perforated for tractor drove cutters. I have a Graphtec CE-5000 and am going to get the Roland R-ware someday. Wish now that I had bought the GX-24 but I stiull love my Graphtec


----------



## Stitch-Up

The Graphtec works perfectly with R-Wear/CorelDraw


----------



## ReneBraches

*Hi everybody,
I also use the combination of R-Wear, Coreldraw (v14), and a vinylcutter (Summagraphics D60). After importing from R-Wear into Corel I found out, that each single circle has approx. 20 - 24 nodes instead 1 or 2 for a perfect circle when created with CorelDraw itself.

When trying to cut with the vinylcutter it takes plenty of time to do so, because the blade goes up and down from node to node, 20 to 24 times for a single circle.
Imaging to have a template with 595 rhinestones, the blade moves 12.000 times up and down instaed of 595 times. This cannot be healthy for the cutter and the blade.

Any workaround out there?
Any suggestion will be very welcome.
Greetings from Germany.
Rene*


----------



## Stitch-Up

This is strange Rene as I used the same combination of software.

When you say 'importing' from R-Wear, what exactly do you mean?

John


----------



## Grandadgem

What hour long video? I would like to watch this video if I could find it. I love learning things. Where do I go to find this video? clic a, clic b, clic c. These are the steps I need. Thanks.


----------



## ReneBraches

*Hi John,

I ment "Copy & Paste".

Mark the template in R-Wear copy it into the clipboard, go to Coreldraw and paste it (Ctrl & V keys).

When magnifying a single "circle" you will see many many nodes. This might be good for engraving, but not for cutting with a vinyl cutter I think.

The is a "not so good" workaround:
1. (In Corel) Mark the template, turn all into curves.
2. ungroup all
3. mark all with the node tool
4. reduce the number of nodes (play a bit with values)

That's it.
I found out, in some cases the circles are not 100% round.

Please let me have your experience.
Thanks. Good luck.
Rene
*


----------



## MsHutch

Hi Rene,

I actually purchased a macro from macromonster.com called Dizzy: Shaping Version 3. You draw the size of your rhinestone and mark it with the macro, then replace all of your rhinestones with that object. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## ReneBraches

Hello Colleen,

THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!

I also but that makro 30 minutes ago.

IT WORKS GREAT. Perfect. 

In addition to that I also bought the macro "LED-Tool"
hoping to produce fills within Coreldraw.

I let you know how it works.

Thank you again!
Rene


----------



## ReneBraches

Hello Colleen,

so, meanwhile I've installed the LED macro.
It works. 
You can do fills or outlines with CorelDraw as good as R-Wear or even better. And this solution is cheap too.
USD 20 for the LED macro and USD 10 for dizzy shaping.
Well, the LED macro has only sizes of 3, 5 10 etc. mm because it is designed for placing LEDs onto shapes.
But with the dizzy shaping macro you can replace all circles with shapes of the size you like (e.g. 2.9 or 3.1 or 4.2 mm etc.)

All in all, I prefer this solution, I think I am going to sell R-Wear a.s.a.p..

Again thanks a lot.

If anybody out there has any questions about this or want to share his/her experience - all time welcome.
Rene


----------



## MsHutch

Hey! Thanks Rene! I'll have to look into that as well. I also purchased the RWearStudio, and am not having much luck with fills. Hopefully there will be some updates to the program to enhance this feature.

Again, thank you,

Colleen


----------



## DTFuqua

Hi Rene. I have lots of questions so how about starting from the beginning and list what it is you have from where and what it does and what do you need (Corel Draw X3? ) to work with it. Please.


----------



## allhamps

Colleen, that is a very cool site. I don't have the problem of fills, etc. since I'm using the DAS rhinestone program, but I LOVE "stuff", and there is tons of stuff on here for my Corel


----------



## sjidohair

i am gonna have to check this out as well,
sandy jo


----------



## ReneBraches

Terry,

all you need is CorelDraw X3 or X4, the 2 macros I mentioned before, and of course the Hardware.

For the templates themselves I prefer a "sandblast" film offered by Xpress UK www.xpress.com. It is 0.5 mm thick and you can use it for rhinestones as well as rhinestuds and other material.

One thing the dizzy shaping macro can do, no other software can do: fills or outlines with shapes other than circles.

R-Wear, DAS and all other software I know will produce circles, nothing but circles.

But how to create a template with a mix of circles, squares, triangles etc. all of different sizes?

With the dizzy shaping macro you can do all this simply by replacing some or all circles (produced by CorelDraw, R-Wear or DAS) with shapes you like. The final result is a template you can use over and over again.These kind of motifs normally only can be proced with a (very expensive) stone setting machine, motif by motif.

Hope this helps
Rene


----------



## sjidohair

The ACS Software from my eagle has different shapes, that you can do this with but there is alot of differnece in money as you said,
I downloaded this dizzy software last night to play but i have corel 11 and it does not work,, 
I will have to look for a used corel 3 or 4 version.
thanks for the info, I always check out anything related to stones,, I just love em,,
Sandy


----------



## Vicki Flores

allhamps said:


> Everyone, Sign Warehouse has the "stone stencil" material. I just got my shipment and it is definitely the same stuff. See below:
> 
> *Code**Name**Price**Quantity*VHRT-425-SP-15425-SP Sandmask - 15 inch x 10 yds Perf$87.70 VHRT-425-S-15425-S Sandmask - 15 inch x 10 yds NP$60.85 VHRT-425-S-20425-S Sandmask - 20 inch x 10 yds NP$76.60 VHRT-425-S-25425-S Sandmask - 25 inch x 10 yds NP$89.45 VHRT-425-SP-30425-S Sandmask - 30 inch x 10 yds Perf$161.45 VHRT-425-S-30425-SP Sandmask - 30 inch x 10 yds NP$110.80


I just got the Stone Stencil system. Is this truly the same 'stone stencil' material? Same thickness? Will save a lot of money if it is the same stuff. Please let me know. Thanks!


----------



## allhamps

I've been buying the Sandmask from Sign Warehouse instead of the DAS material since I finished the initial roll they required me to purchase. It works perfectly.


----------



## RandBPhoto

I'm with Marilyn (BML Builder). I have not attempted it yet (don't have a cutter yet either), but it seems like it should be possible to do this in Corel.

It might take some effort to develop the technique, but should be doable. I'd be interested in learning more about her efforts (if you read this Marilyn, could you let us in on the details?).

(Off topic) I think I've decided on trying the PCut, wish me luck!

Richard - R&B Photo & Promo
"Spreading the Gospel through visual communications"


----------



## BML Builder

Lately we have tried several new methods. We have R-wear and we use it for somethings and then we have started using the Expressions software by Microsoft. It used to be called Creative house. AdvancedArtist talked about it in the Designs section. So we downloaded it and it is some really nice software for drawing things. We have drawn some designs with the dot brush and then copy and paste into Corel then we resize the dots with the Dizzy macro from Macromonster.com. That has worked really well and is a lot quicker than some other ways we have done things in the past.


----------



## RandBPhoto

Thanks for the info. I have Expressions and Corel and will try the macro.

Keep the info coming!

Richard - R&B Photo & Promo
"Spreading the Gospel through visual communications"


----------



## RandBPhoto

Dizzy has four macros listed. Which one did you use? 


Richard - R&B Photo & Promo
"Spreading the Gospel through visual communications"


----------



## sjidohair

i bought dizzy and downloaded but couldnt get it to run with vista,, anybody get it to run with vista?
thanks
Sandy Jo
MMM


----------



## MsHutch

Hi Sandy Jo,

Do you have Corel X3 or X4? I also have vista and it runs fine on my computer. Do you get an error message?


----------



## MsHutch

RandBPhoto said:


> Dizzy has four macros listed. Which one did you use?


It's the Dizzy: Shaping Version 3 Richard.


----------



## sjidohair

i have corel 11,, 
Sandy jo


----------



## wwpro

Hey SandyJo .. quick question.

I do have a Refine from Us Cutter too and I'd like to know which settings are you using if you don't mind sharing.
Pressure and speed, I only have 45* blades but I'm ordering a few 60* along with a extra blade holder as you did

thanks in advance


----------



## sjidohair

Carlos, 
I used the Refine for starting to cut templates, and it couldnt handle it, I wore it out after a few weeks, i had to replace it with another refine, and keep it for cutting glitter vinyl and sign vinyl and heat press, ect, for making garments and banners and signs and stuff,I have been very happy with it for vinyl stuff.
For Templates,, I use the Eagle Ultraforce.
To find the machine that is right for you, for templates, just make sure you have a machine that has the force and great feed rollers as well as a solid track to handle the heavy material you will run thru it,, It was not a pretty site what i did to my refine,, 
Sandy jo


----------



## wwpro

Thanks Sandy. My plan is not to use my refine to cut template material like an everyday thing, but wanted to know if a few cuts will affect it or even if the templates will come out ok. Just in case I can make a design that I think it can sell like crazy or maybe if I have a big order. 

I'm more on the hobby stage now, so everything is done for research sakes.


----------



## sjidohair

Carlos that is what i did too, I got a handful of ok tempaltes out of the refine, and then it died, My new one has not touched template material and is running as strong as ever,, you will love the extra blade holder,, for glitter and specialty materials as well as flock,, too,


----------



## MsHutch

I'm pretty sure the Dizzy Shaping macro only works with Corel X3 or X4.


----------



## BML Builder

I think Colleen is right on the Dizzy shaping only working on X3 or X4. It seems like I had to order one or other of the macros, but it has been a while since I got it. After going back to the macromonster.com website, those were the only options I could find.


----------



## glaker

Can anyone tell me where the Dizzy tutorial is that is spaecific to what we are try to do (rhinestone templates.) The one that I downloaded with macro is pretty basic but not applicable. Any help would be awesome because I'm stuck.


----------



## Jeff Harrison

hi Guys/Gals,

wow, lots of interest here in some of our products for rhinestone-related artwork... 

Funny story, I met Craig Mertens from DAS (the boss) in Phoenix, we were both teaching at a Corel conference. He stared deep into my soul... studying me carefully... He knew me in advance, but I didn't know about DAS - yet. 

Some months later, Foster Coburn and I had gotten off a cruise ship (teaching CorelDRAW on the ship for the prev. week) and I ran into Craig again at ISS Long Beach. He was showing his system, which seems quite good (maybe a bit pricey), and he says to his prospect. "The 3 top CorelDRAW trainers in the world are standing right here". I thought, wow! that's a major compliment, from a serious dude!

Anyway, back to these macros for a moment. I won't "promote" them here, since against rules. You'll have to dig back though threads to get to the site. 

Rene: You can enter custom sizes for LED tool, and even edit INI file in GMS folder to put in custom sizes so they will show in pick list.

most important for LED tool, we have new version coming out soon... curiously, I bet we'd sold as many for placing rhinestones as for it's original intended purpose of placing LED's. (Macro author had no idea...)

here is a simulation with old LED tool. Then with Dizzy shaping to put in rhinestones instead of boring circles.


----------



## wola_77

charles95405 said:


> For those interested - here is an update showing 4 steps in a recent template I did with the DAS system. A forum member had contacted me for this and we went from there..After the template was done and shipped, the client changed their mind on the font style but it was corrected. I should add the photos were posted with the members permission.
> photo 1 is the original jpg art - needed some touchup
> photo 2 is the completed template
> photo 3 is the filled in template (ss10)
> photo 4 is the final press on material w/changed font
> 
> Of some note...the DAS system is much quicker than using Roland engraver


hi there
pls what is the name material do u make the template on,

regards
wola


----------



## ReneBraches

Hi Jeff, 
thanks for the info. I have tried to add some diameter sizes in the INI file. What have I to do get a diameter of e.g. 2.9 or 3.4 mm? I tried "2.9" - did'nt work.
Rene


----------



## allhamps

Wola, here is my ranking for template material:

DAS - it's more expensive, but if you are doing lots of templates, the fact that it self weeds about 99% of the time is a BIG time saver. The templates also hold up well. Caution, if you are using acrylic, instead of silicon transfer tape, I have found that it sticks very aggressively to the DAS material so you do have to peel your design off with caution to keep the tape from curling. Otherwise, it's the best choice.
Hartco 425s sandblast material. Price is affordable and templates last well. It does take some considerable amount of time and practice to get the cut circles to self weed. Some of us who have used it have NEVER been able to get that to happen, so you do things like put it in the fridge for a bit to stiffen the glue, press onto a plastic sheet to help with weeding, etc. If you are not doing a lot of templates you might want to spend the extra time weeding. The biggest plus factor that I found with this material was the availabilty of a wider width material.
ACS black stencil. Although I personally don't like this material, it can work. The glue on this stuff is horrible, it sticks to everything and is a beast to clean off of your hands. The material, in my experience is very hard to cut. However, I have been able to use the roll that I initially bought by cutting the design twice. This actually makes the holes cut all the way through. It still doesn't self weed, but you can peel the design and place on a plastic sheet, rub with a squeege, and then peel. I typically get about 95% weeding with that method. The cost was not bad. Biggest plus is the "teflon" like surface. Stones slide quickly and acrylic or silicon tape peels off easily.
I typically get the Hartco 425s from Sign Warehouse, but there are other places. Of course you can call DAS (Digital Art Solutions) about their stencil material. I don't remember who I got my ACS material from. It was from a PM that someone sent me because I had a shipping issue with the company itself. I'll see if I can find that information and give it to you.


----------



## charles95405

Slick I think you got the ACS material from The Eagle I think I sent you that URL


----------



## allhamps

Yep, that's it.


----------



## sjidohair

Charles and Gail u 2 are always here to help thanks for the reports of the template material for users and info.
MMM


----------



## charles95405

MMM...as for me...someday I might even know what I am doing!...


----------



## Buechee

I have never used a template yet. I just go with the flow of what I'm doing. So far far that has been working for me. I hope it keeps on working.


----------



## Buechee

Jeff I like that ship/boat. That is nice. We don't do anything that detailed. Good azz job.


----------



## allhamps

I'm sorry, but what does that mean Do you do your designs by hand, or do you have some other method that you are using?


----------



## sjidohair

Buechee,
all the information I have done here on TSF, has been about finding what works best for each of us.
What works for one might not work for the next person, 
I am thrilled you are doing what works for you,, it just doesnt get any better than that..
Thanks for posting
MMM


----------



## charles95405

I agree with Sandy Jo...I try several methods for rhinestones...I have 4 different systems...well maybe three since two of them involve some manual applications...so maybe that would be one type system. I say what works *for me*. others can choose what works for them...after all that is why there are fords and chevys and McDonald and Burger King...so pick and choose what you like...and others will do the same..I don't say what I have is the best...just that it is best for me.

BTW Sandy Jo...Got my new Jaguar IV in and in operation...whooooho


----------



## sjidohair

Charles, I cant wait to hear about this machine of yours,, It sounds great,, and you know how we like new toys,, 
Thanks
MMM


----------



## RolandASDRick

The GX-24 is now supported for cutting rhinestone templates from R-WearStudio. As for supported engravers the following are supported: EGX-30/30A/300/350/360/400/600.


----------



## Jeff Harrison

ReneBraches said:


> Hi Jeff,
> thanks for the info. I have tried to add some diameter sizes in the INI file. What have I to do get a diameter of e.g. 2.9 or 3.4 mm? I tried "2.9" - did'nt work.
> Rene


Hi Rene, sorry for late reply. In the new version we make it easier, you can add custom sizes right inside macro.

I tried the values you need. See attached.


----------



## officerggg

Hello Slick or anyone that can help,

I have been reading all of these old posts and am very excited about getting started. I see that you guys recommend the DAS system. I have absolutely nothing. Where should I go to look for a great package deal for everything I need?


----------



## allhamps

Hi, welcome. There are tons of rhinestone systems available now, and in a wide range of prices. I would still recommend the DAS system, as I feel it is the top of the line and has the most options for add on features. Of course, that also makes it the most expensive. Most likely about $3000 to $5000 if you are starting out with nothing. There are several other more affordable option available, however. You basically need a good vinyl cutter and a good rhinestone software. I would recommend the WinPCSign software which has a full rhineston feature, as it supports many of the lower priced, but reliable cutters. If you are familiar with CorelDraw, you could even scale down and get the FunTime Scrapbooking 2010, a lighter version of the WinPCSign, that also does a great job with rhinestone patterns. I use this one in conjuction with all of my DAS stuff. There are several others like the KNK system which I've not used, but believe to be affordable and pretty decent. Do a search here for "rhinestone systems", and you should pick up several threads where many of these have been discussed in detail, regarding their pros and cons. There is also a forum member, Luis, who has done a little add in module that will allow you to use CorelDraw to do your designing. I'll try to go back and pick out some of the more useful threads to link you to.

Good luck


----------



## glaker

do you know what the link for fun time scrapbooking is. I get an error for the site. Is there another way to download and purchase


----------



## allhamps

Try this one: Funtime Scrapbooking - Digital scrapbooking software! I just clicked on it and it was working.


----------



## glaker

i think they are having trouble on their site....i click to buy and it says error...i will try again later..thanks for the help


----------



## officerggg

Thank you so much Allhamps for your help. I will get to researching ASAP!


----------



## BML Builder

Gina,

Here is a link to the thread where most of the rhinestone systems are listed. This thread has a lot of good information all in one spot. Slick has been doing the rhinestoning for quite awhile and she has pretty well summed up the best options out there. There are a few others but this thread should give you a great link to most if not all of them. Good luck and Happy Rhinestoning!!!

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t95228.html


----------



## lchristie

Please advise me! I am frustrated and not able to use the cutter I just purchased. It is a 24" sign max cutter...came with the Winpc software. I have tried so many materials to make templates. It either doesn't cut through, distorts the holes or tears the material if it's thinner. I even tried vinyl, and it crinkled up and tore. I have contacted teh company 3 times to send back..but wanted this to work so bad. I have already been marketing my shirts, but can't continue to hand place rhinestones anymore i also wanted to be able to cut vinyl letters and numbers for my kids sports t's. Any words of wisdom??


----------



## Boomerbabe

Lindsay
What type of material are you trying to cut? Are you using a 60 degree blade?
What speed are you cutting? You need to use a slow speed for thicker template material.
Check your blade depth, your speed and your downforce pressure.
I do not know anything about your cutter so can't give you numbers, sorry. Maybe someone else here can help with that.


----------



## sjidohair

Lindsey have you gotten any where yet,, with this?

Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## sjidohair

When cutting your Rhinestone Templates,, if your holes are distorted, a bit, ease up on your pressure a bit,, 
If your blade comes down and created to much pressure it squishes the rubber as it is trying to cut,, and makes your cirlce, more egg shaped,,, 

Just a tip from me to you!! enjoy.


----------



## lizziemaxine

Ronm said:


> Charles:
> 
> Can you make me a stencil, (TEXT ONLY). I can send a high res pic. Let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ron


I don't think Charles is active on the forum at this time. Seems like he posted a while back that he was really busy and was taking a break from the forums. There are others who can help you with a template if you don't get a response from Charles.


----------



## TotalImageWorks

sandy jo, thank you for soooo much information. I have learned so much reading this thread. One ?... What do you use for transfer tape and where is it available?

Thanks again!


----------



## sjidohair

TotalImageWorks said:


> sandy jo, thank you for soooo much information. I have learned so much reading this thread. One ?... What do you use for transfer tape and where is it available?
> 
> Thanks again!


Jeff, 
Thanks for the kind words,, 
Rhinestones are my life,, I dream rhinestones when i sleep, lol

I use 3 different grades of Transfer Tape, for Different projects,
1.one for Retail custom orders nice and clear
2.One That has alot of Tack that I can pick up the stones lil stones 2mm or mixed stone images very well
3.One that can be re used many times.

I import all my Transfer tapes.

Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## TotalImageWorks

Hi again, screen printing and embroidery are mine (dreams included!). But it is time for a little rhinestone work, we have all the equipment, a good plotter, a heat press, production space, etc. 

Do you sell the transfer tape, or can you help me with a supplier? TNX!


----------



## sjidohair

I am so glad you are getting into Rhinestone work, it will be excellent compliments to the other things you already do.

But I would be happy to answer anything else that I can.

Sandy Jo
MMM


----------



## screenprinting

sjidohair said:


> Ok, guys I opened this up so we could get some discussion going on here about how to make a Rhinestone Template of different materials,,
> go for it,,
> Post good bad and uglies it will help everyone,,



I once used a thicker laminate from hobby lobby, drew out my design on this 1/8 inch thick laminate/plastic, then drilled holes in laminate make sure you do on thick wood, then put these awesome svworski black crystals in the holes, laid a sheet gently over area with crytals, applied heat press, the presto i had some cool black crystals that became rosary beads within a digital printed design of rosary necklace and cross.


----------



## sunnydayz

TotalImageWorks said:


> Hi again, screen printing and embroidery are mine (dreams included!). But it is time for a little rhinestone work, we have all the equipment, a good plotter, a heat press, production space, etc.
> 
> Do you sell the transfer tape, or can you help me with a supplier? TNX!


There are several very reliable sources that are in the states that you can buy the transfer tape fairly cheap. There is shineart, Nova, and threadart also carries it. They all sell it by the roll so it is fairly cheap buying it that way. Much much cheaper then buying it by the foot or the yard. Hope this helps. There are two different types. One is mylar and the other is Silcone. The mylar is cheaper then the silicone type, but both work well in my opinion.


----------



## sjidohair

screenprinting said:


> I once used a thicker laminate from hobby lobby, drew out my design on this 1/8 inch thick laminate/plastic, then drilled holes in laminate make sure you do on thick wood, then put these awesome svworski black crystals in the holes, laid a sheet gently over area with crytals, applied heat press, the presto i had some cool black crystals that became rosary beads within a digital printed design of rosary necklace and cross.




wow great concept,
thanks for sharing
Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## screenprinting

sjidohair said:


> wow great concept,
> thanks for sharing
> Sandy jo
> MMM



It turned out very nice. Hobby lobby sells authentic iron on swvorski crystals. They look very nice and high quality.


----------



## sjidohair

screenprinting said:


> It turned out very nice. Hobby lobby sells authentic iron on swvorski crystals. They look very nice and high quality.


I would love to see a picture of this,, 
Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## screenprinting

sjidohair said:


> I would love to see a picture of this,,
> Sandy jo
> MMM



Wish I had to show, gave it away to a club promoter when I was in london. I'll look for my original mock up to post.


----------



## sjidohair

Thanks tom.

Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## TheDecalWorld

The Silicon transfer tape is pretty and has a stronger backing for shipping transfers. However, if you are just making transfers for your business and customers and just pressing on shirts use the cheap acrylic tape. This will save you alot of money and you can re-use it 5-6 times with no problem at all.


----------



## Ruby MHarvey

ok I missed something haven't been on in a while what video are you guys talking about and where can I buy the software?


----------



## keetch

ok two passes with this crappy cutter and still not cut all the way thru and my holes start out nice and round but become kinda distorted lol, 
sue


----------



## sjidohair

Sue,
Maybe adjust your blade so it sticks out just a bit more,, and then pay attention to your force,, what force are you at?

and turn your machine as slow as it goes..

are you using a 60 degree blade?
MMM


----------



## keetch

60 degree blade, yup, force is at 400, needle out a little more yup lol, i did however figure out the odd shape circles lol human error, my cutter has 3 rollers but i only ever use 2 so it was wobbling in the middle, fixed that, so that being said, i just did my first BLING shirt lol


----------



## charles95405

great...now you are on your way to being a 'stoner' like some of us!


----------



## sjidohair

keetch said:


> 60 degree blade, yup, force is at 400, needle out a little more yup lol, i did however figure out the odd shape circles lol human error, my cutter has 3 rollers but i only ever use 2 so it was wobbling in the middle, fixed that, so that being said, i just did my first BLING shirt lol



woohooo is it working better then?

make sure your pinch rollers are on the grit wheels or grit bar as well


----------



## keetch

i guess i am lol, Im a stoner now


----------



## sjidohair

glad to have you in the club,,, Sue,,,,,,


----------



## My Shirt Connect

Hi Sue 

How's you logo coming? All done?

Brian


----------



## TheDecalWorld

Awesome job Sue. It only gets easier from here on out. Once you get that first one made it gets much easier. Keep up the great work. Let us know if you have any questions.


----------



## sjidohair

If you are using the hartco Material remember after you have your backer board on,, to make sure and dust it with a baby powder or like drying agent , then tap out the extra product and wipe it down,, 
It will help release the stones alot easier

MMM


----------



## allhamps

Welcome Sue, great job. Everything you see will now appear in bling!!


----------



## sjidohair

Slick,, 
You are so right,, 

I see in Rhinestones,, my husband just laughs,,,,,,,

Sandy jo
MMM


----------



## allhamps

Mine too Sandy. Everytime I go "ooh", he knows that means I see something else I can do in bling and he just rolls his eyes!!!

I know he really enjoys it though. Last night he came home from bowling league with 3 orders for a shirt like one I had made for him. They were all scribbled on the back of receipts or something, but he had all the important information for the personalization. He even collected the money!!


----------



## BML Builder

It sounds like you got your husband trained well Slick!! Mine will tell me you need to talk to so and so he wants something from you.


----------



## charles95405

easy to train husbands....as I am one...here is the key

L - no laundry
E- no eats
E - no entertainment
S - I will let you fill this in...

So just remember LEES and you are on your way...may take a week or two...but......


----------



## BML Builder

charles95405 said:


> easy to train husbands....as I am one...here is the key
> 
> L - no laundry
> E- no eats
> E - no entertainment
> S - I will let you fill this in...
> 
> So just remember LEES and you are on your way...may take a week or two...but......


Charles, You are so funny!! Yes, in some cases that works, but after nearly 30 years of marriage I think my husband is a lost cause in teaching him some things. Though, I will have to admit he is well trained in most things that matter the most!!!! I have a great husband and wouldn't trade him for anything. I just have given up trying on some things.


----------



## allhamps

Charles, that is too funny!! Marilyn, I think you're right. I would love to take the credit for "training" my husband in this area, but I think this just happened to be one of those random things that stuck to his brain . When I asked him if he wanted me to make up an order sheet for him to take with him to bowling, his face went completely blank, so I'll just take the orders as he gives them to me.


----------



## lizziemaxine

BML Builder said:


> It sounds like you got your husband trained well Slick!! Mine will tell me you need to talk to so and so he wants something from you.


Sounds just like mine.


----------



## lizziemaxine

charles95405 said:


> easy to train husbands....as I am one...here is the key
> 
> L - no laundry
> E- no eats
> E - no entertainment
> S - I will let you fill this in...
> 
> So just remember LEES and you are on your way...may take a week or two...but......


You are too funny.


----------



## BlingMeNow

do you know where a tutorial or video is so I can starts putting rhinestones on my items,,, I have the cutter/plotter, but need to make my producys POP and I cant afford $3,000 that some want to sell


----------



## TheDecalWorld

Hey Bling, Tnere are many different good vendors and tutorial videos that you can find on you tube to help you. Let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## DivineBling

BlingMeNow said:


> do you know where a tutorial or video is so I can starts putting rhinestones on my items,,, I have the cutter/plotter, but need to make my producys POP and I cant afford $3,000 that some want to sell


Do you have a rhinestone design software?
There are tutorial videos for a bunch of different softwares.

Here's one for WinPCSIGN:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t141238.html

There are a bunch more...
Here's a thread about Bling !t:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t142766.html

Here's a long thread talking about software...
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t95228.html


----------



## sjidohair

Bling what kind of video would you like,,

If I can I would be happy to make one unless have found one already,, 

Matt has some great videos out,


----------



## BlingMeNow

DivineBling said:


> Do you have a rhinestone design software?
> There are tutorial videos for a bunch of different softwares.
> 
> Here's one for WinPCSIGN:
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t141238.html
> 
> There are a bunch more...
> Here's a thread about Bling !t:
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t142766.html
> 
> Here's a long thread talking about software...
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t95228.html


 
All I have is Corel X5


----------



## DivineBling

BlingMeNow said:


> All I have is Corel X5


What kind of a cutter do you have?


----------



## BlingMeNow

Vinyl Express R sieres 31"


----------



## BlingMeNow

Im looking for software. I have Corel X5 but not sure if that will allow me to cut out a template to make a rhinestone template


----------



## DivineBling

BlingMeNow said:


> Vinyl Express R sieres 31"


Well you've come to the right person because I actually had that exact cutter and CorelDraw but had to go find a new software because I hated the LXi software that the cutter came with.

To save you some headaches when you go to install your driver or use it with any other software, that cutter is a rebranded RedSail RS800c so that's what you will have to choose. The VinylExpress thing won't work.

I ended up needing a cutter for higher production so I sold mine to a friend who had me install it for her and get her all set up.

I didn't start using Bling !t until after I had my new cutter so I haven't tried it with the one like yours. I do know that WinPCSIGN Pro WILL work and cut straight to your cutter. When I was using Corel to make rhinestone designs, I had to export them to the LXi software and cut from there which was a huge pain. 

You will also need to get a 60 degree blade for your cutter to cut rhinestone templates.

Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions at all!


----------



## BlingMeNow

Id kiss you if you were here  thank you so much! Where in fact do I get this software at? the WinPCSIGN Pro?

I have a friend who has a business so she got me a vendor for shirts and things.... and my first job is just putting names on the back of team shirts for a youth baseball league... 

Do you have pics of the stuff you have made? Id love to see it




DivineBling said:


> Well you've come to the right person because I actually had that exact cutter and CorelDraw but had to go find a new software because I hated the LXi software that the cutter came with.
> 
> To save you some headaches when you go to install your driver or use it with any other software, that cutter is a rebranded RedSail RS800c so that's what you will have to choose. The VinylExpress thing won't work.
> 
> I ended up needing a cutter for higher production so I sold mine to a friend who had me install it for her and get her all set up.
> 
> I didn't start using Bling !t until after I had my new cutter so I haven't tried it with the one like yours. I do know that WinPCSIGN Pro WILL work and cut straight to your cutter. When I was using Corel to make rhinestone designs, I had to export them to the LXi software and cut from there which was a huge pain.
> 
> You will also need to get a 60 degree blade for your cutter to cut rhinestone templates.
> 
> Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions at all!


----------



## DivineBling

BlingMeNow said:


> Id kiss you if you were here  thank you so much! Where in fact do I get this software at? the WinPCSIGN Pro?
> 
> I have a friend who has a business so she got me a vendor for shirts and things.... and my first job is just putting names on the back of team shirts for a youth baseball league...
> 
> Do you have pics of the stuff you have made? Id love to see it


Awww!! Thanks! I do have some pictures on my Facebook page of a few of my designs. Just click the little blue F under my username and info to the left. Are you putting the team name on the back of each shirt or each child's name?


----------



## BlingMeNow

Childs name,, we are having someone else do the shirts and jerseys,, im not ready for that I dont think, with all 50 sponsors and such,, but I am going to offer to put the childs name on the back of the shirt.



DivineBling said:


> Awww!! Thanks! I do have some pictures on my Facebook page of a few of my designs. Just click the little blue F under my username and info to the left. Are you putting the team name on the back of each shirt or each child's name?


----------



## DivineBling

And you'll be doing each child's name in rhinestones? Or in vinyl?


----------



## BlingMeNow

Vinyl,, because rhinestones are too much for just one name


----------



## DivineBling

I totally agree when you're doing that many names. I was a little shocked but impressed!


----------



## BlingMeNow

ha ha , thanks for the confidence, lol but no, just vinyl


----------



## Stitch-Up

Some great shirts there Stephanie.

May I ask which software you used to produce those? We use Roland's R-Wear Studio.

To get the many colours in a single pattern, do you precisely lay one vinyl on top of another?

Finally, would you mind if I saved some of the pictures on my computer so I can show others what can be achieved with rhinestones?

We have some designs combining DTG & rhinestones. This pic shows a shirt just printed









and with a few rhinestones












Thanks

John


----------



## DivineBling

Stitch-Up said:


> Some great shirts there Stephanie.
> 
> May I ask which software you used to produce those? We use Roland's R-Wear Studio.
> 
> To get the many colours in a single pattern, do you precisely lay one vinyl on top of another?
> 
> Finally, would you mind if I saved some of the pictures on my computer so I can show others what can be achieved with rhinestones?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John


Thanks so much, John!
The majority of those designs were from last year when I first started doing this so most of them were created in CorelDraw with no macros! Very time consuming! LOL
Some of them were created in WinPCSIGN Pro.

If you're referring to the designs with ss16 stones surrounded with ss6 stones, they were made with one template. I brush the ss16 stones in first and then brush in the ss6. That font is the most time consuming to make transfers with out of all of my designs, but people love it and it's my best seller.


----------



## DivineBling

And by the way, your designs are gorgeous!!!


----------



## Stitch-Up

Thanks for the info Stephanie and I did wonder about using different sized stone/holes to get different colours. I wonder what how close in different sizes one could use.

What I mean is, would an SS6 hole reject an SS10 stone - I'll have to experiment  would love to create 3 colour designs.

Thanks for the message too.


----------



## DivineBling

Stitch-Up said:


> Thanks for the info Stephanie and I did wonder about using different sized stone/holes to get different colours. I wonder what how close in different sizes one could use.
> 
> What I mean is, would an SS6 hole reject an SS10 stone - I'll have to experiment  would love to create 3 colour designs.
> 
> Thanks for the message too.


Yes, the ss10 stone would brush right over the ss6 hole. Occasionally, a stone will sort of sit on top of the smaller hole, but the brush moves it off pretty easily. I do have several 3 size designs but the larger sizes are mostly just a few accent stones so I usually just pop those in first with some tweezers.


----------



## addiezaza

OR you could buy a $52,000 CAMS machine run by air compressor!!
We design on the computer then send the design to the machine for printing!


----------



## sjidohair

If i had a design with more than 4 colors or so and different sizes that would for sure be a canidate for a Cams or Robotic Machine.

When My clients bring me a Design to turn to stone with many colors and or many sizes,,, I do refer them to some one who can do it less expensive with a cams or other machine.

MMM


----------



## TheDecalWorld

Just don't turn away those custom names on the back of shirts in Rhinestones to quick. Once you get the hang of it, it is very easy. Our MEGAbling shirts are huge for the Mom's. We charge an extra $10-$12 per shirt for the custom name and it takes about 10 minutes to create, cut, and brush. We just had an order of 45 of them for a local league and each of the megabling shirts sold for $43.50. That was with a 25% bulk discount.


----------



## sjidohair

I totally agree,with Matt.

I would cut a few different alphabets out,, so you have a few different fonts to choose from, 

Cut each letter seperate, so when you go from name to name grab the letters line them up,, to create the names, 

Do not stick on a perm backer,, 

I take the Template material and stick on a surface i can peel it back off of, to create my Temp name, push my stones in create the transfer and move to the next.. 

With cutting the letters out seperate,, you are not wasting template material for each name that many never be used again,,, 

MMM


----------



## TheDecalWorld

Yes, That is the way we do it. There is alot of money out there if you can customize it in stones. Keep all of your options open. We are working on some new items now that I think are going to be a huge hit as well! We have tested a few and testing is going great.


----------



## addiezaza

cool you sound like you've been in this biz for a while! has the forum helped your biz?


----------



## sjidohair

OH I forgot ,, when doing individual letters,, I call them letters on demand,, 

Make sure and create the weed box as close to the letter as you can so you can line the letters up nice and flush to each other with the correct spaceing.


----------



## Amandazon247

I made a word template last night and didnt even think about doing the whole alphabet ... great idea ... cause I like the way it turned out and I agree I dont stick my templates to a backer board.. I use a piece of plastic and then stick the tape back on when done..... that way I can store easier and dont waste money on backer boards. I did learn last night though that SS6 stones are pretty but they sure suck when doing a design that small...


----------



## lattemarie

This is a great idea, thanks!! Quick question though ... what material do you stick the template material to that you can peel it back off of?




sjidohair said:


> I totally agree,with Matt.
> 
> I would cut a few different alphabets out,, so you have a few different fonts to choose from,
> 
> Cut each letter seperate, so when you go from name to name grab the letters line them up,, to create the names,
> 
> Do not stick on a perm backer,,
> 
> I take the Template material and stick on a surface i can peel it back off of, to create my Temp name, push my stones in create the transfer and move to the next..
> 
> With cutting the letters out seperate,, you are not wasting template material for each name that many never be used again,,,
> 
> MMM


----------



## sjidohair

I attach them to a pvc board or table,, or anything that it will peel backup on and i keep the backer pieces of transfer tape,, and store it that way.

MMM


----------



## DiamondW

DTFuqua said:


> Well? Did the fedex truck break down on the way to your house? Details please, details. Impressions,realities?


Can you email me how to do the stencil? 

thanks


----------



## blackrose116

Hello everyone!

I am going to be creating some rhinestone heat transfers, and the t-shirts the I have are nice, as far as construction, but they are thin/organic. So I was wondering if anyone could tell me:

1.) Is there a certain size rhinestone that should be used on transfers if they are going to be applied to a thinner t-shirt? I'm wondering if there is such a thing as too much weight on a t-shirt if it is really thin, can the weight of a lot of rhinestones/studs cause the thinner fabric to become droopy?

2.) When putting on the transfer, is there a problem with how much heat a thinner t-shirt can stand?

Thanks so much in advance...


----------



## JAF

lattemarie said:


> This is a great idea, thanks!! Quick question though ... what material do you stick the template material to that you can peel it back off of?


 
I have a roll of material from Stahl's called Magic Mask...Clear. It's perfect for temporary placement of stencil/template material.


----------



## My Shirt Connect

Economy Hotfix Tape works for most applications.

Brian : )


----------



## Lady Got Stones

Now for the backing board. Can you use 
*Readi-Board Foam Boards? I found a store that sells them for a dollar a piece. They measue 20"x30" and is 3/16" thick. They also seem pretty easy to cut as well. Any input would be great. I am a newbie and I'm in need of guidence on backing board material. PLEASE HELP!!! Thanks everyone.*


----------



## sjidohair

You can use anything that works for you,, 

some of us dont even use backing board,, we attach the templates, temp to acrylic chunks, or tables or trays and when done peel them back up put them on the backer then came with and store them

If it works for you ,, it is the right material,


----------



## WorthDesigns

As Sandy suggests if the backing board is for you then go ahead and use it but imo i feel it is more work and more expense. If working on a good surface you only need 

A Sponge,Template and Stones, then of course your transfer tape to pick up your finished design. It couldnt be easier


----------



## WorthDesigns

My Shirt Connect said:


> Economy Hotfix Tape works for most applications.
> 
> Brian : )


 
Anything as cheap as Decorators Masking Tape does the job of holding down templates if woking on the right surface.

And of course have the right material for the tape to peel off.


----------



## cowpuncher007

I buy the foam backer board that I use at Staples in large sheets. It's basically dirt cheap per template. On the other hand, Sandy Jo is a super thrifty person, so I can see why she would do it her way. Penny Pincher! LOL!


----------



## WorthDesigns

blackrose116 said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am going to be creating some rhinestone heat transfers, and the t-shirts the I have are nice, as far as construction, but they are thin/organic. So I was wondering if anyone could tell me:
> 
> 1.) Is there a certain size rhinestone that should be used on transfers if they are going to be applied to a thinner t-shirt? I'm wondering if there is such a thing as too much weight on a t-shirt if it is really thin, can the weight of a lot of rhinestones/studs cause the thinner fabric to become droopy?
> 
> Regarding the size of stones you use for this type of t-shirt all depends on how many you intend to lay on the shirt, If you was to use ss10 (3mm) with quite a large number of stones then i would say the weight would be too much for the shirt and will cause it to loose shape very quickly.
> 
> If in doubt, use ss6 (2mm), theres quite a difference in size and weight!
> 
> 2.) When putting on the transfer, is there a problem with how much heat a thinner t-shirt can stand?
> 
> There again it all depends on how thin your shirts actually are, Rhinestones require a high heat setting (325f) for around 20 seconds, If your material can not withstand this then its unsuitable to use with rhinestones.
> 
> Thanks so much in advance...


I hope this helps


----------



## WorthDesigns

cowpuncher007 said:


> I buy the foam backer board that I use at Staples in large sheets. It's basically dirt cheap per template. On the other hand, Sandy Jo is a super thrifty person, so I can see why she would do it her way. Penny Pincher! LOL!


Good to hear all the different types of materials people are using. 

I know you are joking regarding sandy and her techniques but i must state that all that use backing material are wasting alot of time and money, 

Take off the stabilizers and learn the process of using templates like a professional, you will find you will create alot more templates per day when doing so.

You will not regret it!


----------



## sjidohair

cowpuncher007 said:


> I buy the foam backer board that I use at Staples in large sheets. It's basically dirt cheap per template. On the other hand, Sandy Jo is a super thrifty person, so I can see why she would do it her way. Penny Pincher! LOL!


Steve Is right as well as everyone who has put info in here, on this thread,, there are many ways of doing it,, just pick which is right for you and have fun,, 
Sandy jo


----------



## cowpuncher007

I missed most of this discussion, but I was just poking Sandy a little bit. People who know me know that our company has been doing rhinestone transfers for over thirty years. I've only recently, however, started doing my own templates. I'm not sure what you mean about the backing being too much work, or expense. I've cut about thirty-five templates so far, put them on foam, and filed them. I want one, I pull it out, shake it, pick it up with "sticky paper", and put the template back in the file drawer. It seems pretty simple to us Hoosiers.


----------



## sjidohair

cowpuncher007 said:


> I missed most of this discussion, but I was just poking Sandy a little bit. People who know me know that our company has been doing rhinestone transfers for over thirty years. I've only recently, however, started doing my own templates. I'm not sure what you mean about the backing being too much work, or expense. I've cut about thirty-five templates so far, put them on foam, and filed them. I want one, I pull it out, shake it, pick it up with "sticky paper", and put the template back in the file drawer. It seems pretty simple to us Hoosiers.



Steve,, I know you were fooling with me and I love the humor,, I also know you have been working with Transfers for a long time,, 
Keep up the good work,
Sandy jo


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## DTFuqua

I'll be honest with ya'll. I like the sticky flock method of layering these templates, espercialy the way Matt and Sandy Jo showed in their videos.


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## TheDecalWorld

You got it Terry. We use foam board for the regular template material and the carrier sheet for the sticky flock. It is amazing the difference in the amount of room they take up. We use the foam board mainly because of the give it has for doing Multi-color designs and the way we make them I feel it helps brushing in the Ss6 stones better. We layer them with packaging tape and when the stones fall in the holes and sit on the tape they don't move around as much if they were just sitting on a hard surface thet we attached the template too. So by doing this the stones don't pop out as easy when brushing them all in. That's a extra 2 minutes to make the foam board, but saves hours in brushing time when creating hundreds of transfer. 

Matt


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## cowpuncher007

When I jumped in here to make a comment, I wasn't really aware of what anybody was talking about. I hadn't received an email notice about any discussions for a while, so when I got one, I just kind of popped my head in to say hi to Sandy. After I realized what the actual discussion was about though, I learned something. I'm ordering a sheet or two of Sticky Flock to test. It could be an improvement over what I'm using. Hope so.
HOWEVER. When I hear someone arrogantly use the word "professional", I get upset. What they mean, always, is that they feel superior. Nonsense. Everyone in here is a professional, and it's a great, helpful community. Silly false pride should have no place at TSF.


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## sjidohair

cowpuncher007 said:


> When I jumped in here to make a comment, I wasn't really aware of what anybody was talking about. I hadn't received an email notice about any discussions for a while, so when I got one, I just kind of popped my head in to say hi to Sandy. After I realized what the actual discussion was about though, I learned something. I'm ordering a sheet or two of Sticky Flock to test. It could be an improvement over what I'm using. Hope so.
> HOWEVER. When I hear someone arrogantly use the word "professional", I get upset. What they mean, always, is that they feel superior. Nonsense. Everyone in here is a professional, and it's a great, helpful community. Silly false pride should have no place at TSF.



Glad to see you steve, i have missed you
Sandy jo


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## allhamps

Thanks Steve, I was wondering why Harvard hadn't sent over my Stoner degree yet. In any event, I still use the Hartco, and it all depends on what I'm cutting and how many transfers I need to make as to whether or not I mount the stencil on a backer board. If I'm going to make a lot of transfers, I'll put it on a backer board because it just makes handling it a littler easier, or at least that's what I think. If it's something quick, 1 or 2 transfers, I'll just stick the stencil to my work table, make the transfers and then stick it on a piece of freezer paper and put it in a drawer. It's all about preference and work flow. I like to-may-toes, you like to-mah-toes, but in the end, if we can all make some money, let's just be happy!!


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## cowpuncher007

Hey Slick - I use the Hartco as well. It's what I got with the machine, and I thought that's all there was. The only problem I ever have with the stuff is that sometimes it's too sticky for some situations. I like to do very close together, filled areas, and it makes it difficult to remove the chads easily by the usual method of just pulling it off the table or carrier sheet. It tends to tear if you're not careful. I was thinking that a material not quite as tacky, like Sticky Flock might be a cool deal for what I do. I'm going to post some pictures soon of some of the new designs and get opinions from some of you "old pros".  I'm just a newb in this area.


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## sjidohair

Steve i think you will like Sticky Flock alot,, 
I use many materials, but for my big orders of transfers,, that I need to get out fast, I use the flocked Templates, as the stone release is super fast

I have found the lighter the touch when brushing the stones in the template, the better, as the material is not as deep as Hartco, or graphtec material.
But the release of the stones is amazing


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## dd2

charles95405 said:


> For those interested - here is an update showing 4 steps in a recent template I did with the DAS system. A forum member had contacted me for this and we went from there..After the template was done and shipped, the client changed their mind on the font style but it was corrected. I should add the photos were posted with the members permission.
> photo 1 is the original jpg art - needed some touchup
> photo 2 is the completed template
> photo 3 is the filled in template (ss10)
> photo 4 is the final press on material w/changed font
> 
> Of some note...the DAS system is much quicker than using Roland engraver


Charles, based on your experience with DAS ( I got a quote today for over $6k) If I purchase my heat press and cutter/ plotter separate, aside for the materials (ie. stones, backer board, etc..) what software is needed (aside from Corel draw- which I already own) to make the rhinestone templates. Also- Will the GCC 24 expert cutter plotter suffice? Thanks for any info you can provide.

Thanks.


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## cowpuncher007

Sandy,
Received the Sticky Flock the other day. Great stuff! I see now what you were talking about. If you have a limited supply of stones, making your applique in the work tray is the way to go. I plan to cut two of each template I do from now on; one out of Sticky Flock and one from the Hartco. I'll mount the Hartco permanently for plunging into large trays of stones, and keep the other for using when we only have a small quantity of a color. Thanks again.
This is a piece I did for a girl named Harley. It's on a dress. I made the whole alphabet at the same.


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## sjidohair

cowpuncher007 said:


> Sandy,
> Received the Sticky Flock the other day. Great stuff! I see now what you were talking about. If you have a limited supply of stones, making your applique in the work tray is the way to go. I plan to cut two of each template I do from now on; one out of Sticky Flock and one from the Hartco. I'll mount the Hartco permanently for plunging into large trays of stones, and keep the other for using when we only have a small quantity of a color. Thanks again.
> This is a piece I did for a girl named Harley. It's on a dress. I made the whole alphabet at the same.


glad you liked it,, i love it, and i love your design as well
Great job
Sandy jo


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## Kleverrr1

Hello Everyone,

I wanted to know how many diffrent materials people are cutting on now a days? This Sticky Flock sounds great. I need to get some soon.

Thanks


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## SickPuppy

Kleverrr1 said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I wanted to know how many diffrent materials people are cutting on now a days? This Sticky Flock sounds great. I need to get some soon.
> 
> Thanks


I still use Hartco 425 for some designs but I like rhinestone flock better. It makes multi color designs easier. What is even better is if you have a heat press you can make your own flock material.


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## Kleverrr1

Make my own flock material, how?


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## tee09

Kleverrr1 said:


> Make my own flock material, how?


Here is the process on how to make it

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/rhinestone-decoration/t138064.html


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## Kleverrr1

Great !! Thanks


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## cowpuncher007

Hi Chris,
Glad you're back. Wondered where you were. I haven't been in here much for a while either. I didn't know anything about Sticky Flock 'til Sandy clued me in. I missed a lot.


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## sjidohair

Woohooooo Chris is Back,,,,, love it when some of the pioneers return,,,,,,,

Missed you both and so glad to see you both,,, you both have so much knowledge,, woohooooooooooooo

Sandy jo


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## sjidohair

Kleverrr1 said:


> Great !! Thanks



Great to see you on her my Friend,, 

Sandy jo


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## Kleverrr1

Thanks Sandy !! Happy to be here lot has changed for the better it would seem. i can wait to get some sticky flock now that I dusted off my Puma cutter and got my Smart Cut pro up and running again. I still have lots of Hartco film to cut on but need something new..


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## PlumCrazyGlitz

SickPuppy said:


> I still use Hartco 425 for some designs but I like rhinestone flock better. It makes multi color designs easier. What is even better is if you have a heat press you can make your own flock material.


I tried sticky flock for the first time last week, that's all I will use now.. I just ordered the stuff to make my own.


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## Kleverrr1

I like to make most of my custom transfer with 2 sizes or colors and this sound like it will work great for that. I will be placing an order for some later this week.


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## DTFuqua

With so many people making their own flock template material, did yall have as many problems as I did? First problem was neglecting to make sure which side was the wall sticky material and which was the backer. I have a flock square glued to the back of a backer sheet. Second was getting in a hurry and melted the flock to my heat press, up-side down. Most problems after that are trying to make maximum use of the material and my cutters software dropping cuts from being overloaded with almost 3000 cuts to make at a time. I am using Siser Strip Flock and the Mojave wall media, pressing at 325 for 15 seconds. Need to get a temp gun or strips or something to be sure of temprature, but the wall media kinda melts if I leave some sticking out one end . Did that to save flock material because of the last inch or so between the pinch rollers and the cutter head that never gets cut. Me being cheap. It also damages the release coating on the backer paper and I have to remove some of that manualy from the back of my pieces. Oh, and I have been weeding all those flocky bugers by hand and that takes a long time. Any body having better luck than me? Or worse?


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## SickPuppy

DTFuqua said:


> With so many people making their own flock template material, did yall have as many problems as I did? First problem was neglecting to make sure which side was the wall sticky material and which was the backer. I have a flock square glued to the back of a backer sheet. Second was getting in a hurry and melted the flock to my heat press, up-side down. Most problems after that are trying to make maximum use of the material and my cutters software dropping cuts from being overloaded with almost 3000 cuts to make at a time. I am using Siser Strip Flock and the Mojave wall media, pressing at 325 for 15 seconds. Need to get a temp gun or strips or something to be sure of temprature, but the wall media kinda melts if I leave some sticking out one end . Did that to save flock material because of the last inch or so between the pinch rollers and the cutter head that never gets cut. Me being cheap. It also damages the release coating on the backer paper and I have to remove some of that manualy from the back of my pieces. Oh, and I have been weeding all those flocky bugers by hand and that takes a long time. Any body having better luck than me? Or worse?


Dude you are doing something very wrong if you are having that many issues I make rhinestone flock all the time follow the instructions and pay attention to what you are doing and you should not have any problems.


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## DTFuqua

Yes I agree, I have done a lot wrong. I am always preoccupied with being caretaker for my wife. I have discovered that the problems I said was the plotter dropping cuts is actualy in my corel draw somewhere. I cab see all the circles in wireframe but when I click and drag something, I see the empty spaces that the cutter leaves out. I now have a new way to check what my cut lines are going to be. I'm not sure of my facts but I believe your my inspiration to make this work out without buying the "sticky flock" material and I am glad I did. Only one 15X15 sheet of flock was a loss due to the heat press (I put two sided tape on the other and made my work tray with it) but I have lost a lot due to getting the cutter setting right and trying to figure out what the problems with dropping cuts is/was.I would have been real upset with myself if I had lost a large part of two sheets in the cutter of the store bought stuff. I do intend to keep at it and I owe Matt a thanks also for his demonstrations of the "layering" part of the flock templates that makes all the effort worth it. I believe you had mentioned it, the layering method, somewhere a long time ago but me being me, I needed the visual stimulation to get the idea. By the way, thanks to you too.


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## bullies1

Guys I need help... I have the DAS system and I am trying to make numbers in rhinestone for the back of jersey shirts, I want 6 inch numbers but I cannot get them to fill in grrrr what am I doing wrong


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## Boomerbabe

Which system -SmartCut Pro or Stone Cut Pro?


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## bullies1

Boomerbabe said:


> Which system -SmartCut Pro or Stone Cut Pro?



Stone cut pro. I can get them to outline but not to fill


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## Boomerbabe

Are the numbers filled with a color? or is it like a wireframe?


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## bullies1

wireframe,


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## TheDecalWorld

You just need to select the Fill and outline option in the macro.


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## TheDecalWorld

When you click on place rhinestone "Contour " Will be selected. Use the drop down menu and Select Contour + Fill option.


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## TheDecalWorld

It is under the Section labeled MODE in Stone Cut on the Right Side Right above Object Distance.


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## bullies1

OMG I am such a dork, I did the numbers in corel and transfered them over and never converted it to rhinestones......thanks Matt


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## TheDecalWorld

LOL, No problem. Glad you got it working! That's all that matters. Now you know what not to do. That's how you learn it. Have a great night designing!


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## bullies1

I have another question, I am now working on something else and I am trying to fill with one color and contour with another. For some reason I cant make it work, when I try to contour first then fill the program freezes on me. Should I do a contour line or can I get it to work without? I am new to this and any help/advice is greatly appreciated


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## TheDecalWorld

Hey Bullies, Right Click on the Stone Cut icon and click run as administrator to open. That may be the freezing issue you are having. Let me know if that helps.


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## bullies1

TheDecalWorld said:


> Hey Bullies, Right Click on the Stone Cut icon and click run as administrator to open. That may be the freezing issue you are having. Let me know if that helps.


I tried that, when I click on "execute" my screen flashes as each rhinestone that is outlines appears highlighted one at a time which at that point I need to shut it down. Would it be easier to do a contour inline or outline to avoid this?


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## TheDecalWorld

You could easily just do them separate. Do the Contour, the after that do the fill. That should work.


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## artswear

Forgive my basic questions, I am new to rhinestone decortating, but have done other apparel decorating. 

I have a question regarding sending a rhinestone design to a cutter. What file type actually gets sent to the cutter, is it a vector file? Or is it a specially formatted cutter file of some sort? Can a vector file be sent? The reason I am asking is because I use adobe illustrator to create vector artwork and am wondering how to create my own rhinestone template using AI. I see alot about coreldraw out there but not much about AI. Would I be able to indicate in the design where the circles for the rhinestones will be by using some kind of tool/brush etc. to create the circles, of course at the appropriate size, and then sending that file to a cutter?


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## sjidohair

Hi Patrice,

When cutting with a Vinyl cutter you design the holes, the right size you want to cut.

The blade does the holes for you .

File formats are different with different cutters, 
But the basics are 

Vector files
Eps
AI
SVG

There are others but with adobe you would use a AI file to send to your Cutter for Template Material like Sticky Flock or Hartco ,Graphtec ,Ect.
Sandy Jo


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## allhamps

I am sure that is possible. There are plenty of tutorials on You Tube for this process with Corel so there may be some for AI or you can adapt the steps. It depends on the software that your cutter uses as to what type of file can be cut. Most software will cut eps, AI and cdr files. Check your cutting software


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## artswear

Sandy jo and slick, thanks so much for the input. Are the "holes" that I design in illustrator basically unfilled circles? If that is the case, then, if I insert these unfilled circles in the correct size and spacing in my illustrator file, then that file can be sent to the cutter, or sent to someone who has a cutter? There is no other file conversion that needs to take place? 

The piece that is missing then is how to get the circles into the illustrator file. I could technically, enter them one by one, but I would imagine the line up would not be perfect and it would take a long time. There has to be a plug in for illustrator that allows this to be done more efficiently. I will check it out on youtube, hopefully I will find something.


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## sjidohair

Yes there is info on here how to use Illustrator for Rhinestone design.

do a search, and see if you can find it,, 
What you will be doing is making a brush

and then create a vector,, and have your dots follow the path of the vector lines, which will make your design.

You can do it. It will take a lil research, on here and on the illustrator site, 

I also believe I saw a Macro for Adobe a while back,
Keep us posted if you need anymore help.

your circles should cut out fine, just make sure to make them single line, as illustrator likes to create a double line for each stone and if you have double lines you will also have double rows of stones colliding, and that will not be good.

Sandy jo


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## cowpuncher007

@artswear. I do all of my rhinestone work in Illustrator. The answer to one question is no, you don't send the AI or Eps file directly to the cutter. The cutters all have proprietary software. IOW, you design in AI and then open the cutter's software from inside AI. I have both Roland Cut Studio software for my Stika machine and Craft Robo software for my Silhouette. It's really simple.On your other question, think of your circles as just filled dots. You simply use dots of the proper size, arrange them, and cut. The only trick is spacing. I'll be glad to help you with that if I can. For my money, Illustrator is a great program for rhinestone design.


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## artswear

Hi Steve, thanks for the info. Does the proprietary software come with the cutter or is it a separate purchase? So do you place the dots with a fill and no stroke? Are you cutting/pasting each one? I'm pretty good with illustrator and I tried this, but it was difficult to get the spacing accurate by hand. I tried making a pattern, but that chops off the dots at the outer edge of the object I am trying to fill. Then I tried the sprayer tool after adding the circle of the right size the symbols panel, and that didn't work because the spacing is difficult to control with the sprayer. 

In the end, I posted on the Adobe Forums and received a great solution from two people. I can email the link to you, if you are interested, send me a private message.


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## cowpuncher007

Hi. The software comes with the cutter. The Silhouette (Craft Robo) is a stand alone program that you access from the file menu in AI. I can also tell you it's a great rhinestone cutter and it's cheap.What I've done is this. Make a dot a bit larger than the stones you're using. Trial and error here, but add maybe half a millimeter. Fill with no stroke. Select it. Go object/path/offset path. determine the spacing you want between stones, again some trial and error. Offset your path (circle) by half that amount. Give the larger circle a very light stroke and no fill. Now you have two circles. Very important. At this point, put the outer circle on it's own layer. Label it spacers. Label the original circle layer stones. Now you have your first stone with the proper spacing. Select the stone and the spacer, hold control, and drag out a copy of both circles to make your second stone. If the two spacers are just touching, you know the stones are properly spaced. And so on and so on, ............ 'til your pattern is made. Send me that link. I made all of this up since everybody uses Corel Draw, and I'd be interested in how other people have approached it. Good luck.


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## cowpuncher007

Here's a pattern we're doing for the big game. The biggest thing to hit our town since sliced bread!


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## artswear

Looks great! Good luck with the shirts, and the game!!!


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## cowpuncher007

I've got a couple of tips for anyone using the Silhouette SD and the Hartco material to make rhinestone templates. I meant to post these before, but forgot. If they've been covered I missed it. First, the instructions tell you to adhere your template material to the carrier sheet. Wrong! This will cause many more problems than it's worth. Put your green rubber template material straight in the machine. It might take some adjustment in your depth and down force settings, but the carrier sheets are really just a hindrance. Second, after you've made your template and are getting ready to make your applique, rub the template vigorously with a dryer sheet. This will eliminate some of the static electricity and help your excess stones slide off much more easily, saving you time.

Also, Sandy, I have a question about cutting circles for EZ sequins. Can you tell me where there is a good current topic going about this?


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## glamsquad

I have DAS and I find it a little difficult to use. I have absolutely no corel draw or any other training I purchased the Stone Cut pro in Dec. not happy with it.


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## naied

hi, firstly my apologies if im in the wrong thread for my question, im trying to create a template with 1st letter to N in 3 inches and the remainder letters aifar in half inch, i have corel rw wear ,winpc pro 2012 and flexi, i have only practised on the win pc, but im finding it difficult creating fonts that small with minimum spacing, i ahve it set at 0.1 but wen template made ( for 6ss, obviously select 3 times larger size 9ss , it comes out very gappy and was hoping some one can guide, if not then can someone be able to make the template for me, itws a shame i wanted to learn but im finding it very hard to make small letter fonts.. help is what i need..thanku


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## sjidohair

Naied, Try spacing of .004 I think you will see a big difference in winpcsign2012 or Winpcsign2010.
If this is to tight , go up in numbers to go with more distance between stones.


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## sundae

Hi
These are the type of designs I would like to create..
What type of machine/software would you recommend for a starter?!..
Thx


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## katruax

sundae said:


> Hi
> These are the type of designs I would like to create..
> What type of machine/software would you recommend for a starter?!..
> Thx


I don't see any designs with your post?... What are the type of designs you would like to make?

Kevin


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## MrsShoe

Question for Cowpuncher007:

I use a a Silhouette Cameo cutter, mainly for flexcut tshirt designs. I have tried a few Rhinestone templates and I noticed your comments:

1. The green rubber type template material: 
yes I tried this as sample sheets came with the cameo. I will try using it without the backing sheet, thanks for the tip. But what is a dryer sheet ? You mentioned it was good for removing static.

2. have you used Sticky Flock as a template material ? I cannot source it here in Europe and I'm interested in the product. If you have used it, can you compare it with the silhouette green rubber template material ?

Looking forward to your advice.


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