# Printing Plastisol Transfers on Normal Paper



## bircanboss

Printing Plastisol Transfers on normal paper. No vacum pallet, 
no additives, no glue powder, no off contact, just print them twice and they come out great and last forever!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSWXf-hSOe8[/media]


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

Interesting, are you printing over an existing print as it didnt look like a blank sheet?


----------



## bircanboss

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Interesting, are you printing over an existing print as it didnt look like a blank sheet?


Yes just doing the second print on the video.
You have to pass the paper through the dryer before you start printing so the paper shrinks first or your second print will not align properly.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

Please explain your steps. You are printing one pass, running through the dryer like a flash and printing another pass?


----------



## bircanboss

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Please explain your steps. You are printing one pass, running through the dryer like a flash and printing another pass?


Yes David that's right. I get the paper from an offset printer here in town, it's like $50 for 4000 sheets of the size you see in the video. The prints have a very soft hand and do not shine.


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

How did you register the second pass so quickly?


----------



## bircanboss

MotoskinGraphix said:


> How did you register the second pass so quickly?


You don't have to register the second pass because it's exactly in the same place as the first pass. First pass the paper through the dryer so it shrinks, then print the first pass and make sure the paper stays in a warm place (don't let it get cold or it will not line up with your next pass) then print the same thing one more time and pass it through the dryer and that's it. Some paper has a good side and a bad side., you need to experiment to see which is the better side to print on.


----------



## bircanboss

You can do the same thing with multiple colors too, just print the last color (white) twice. Here's the Cyprus print I did that was 6 colors on normal paper.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlSJvOMwtsU[/media]


----------



## chard

normal paper you mean you can print it on normal bond paper?


----------



## red514

'normal paper' as in the standard paper we use in our photocopier?


----------



## taricp35

This is an old trick. Anyone that has been printing transfers for a long time knows this. It is great for hot split as you do not need all of the ink to release from the paper, the second pass helps. I use regular copy paper as well.


----------



## chard

how about if your are going to print cmyk?whats the step by step?thanks


----------



## bircanboss

red514 said:


> 'normal paper' as in the standard paper we use in our photocopier?


I used to use photocopy paper but I've found that 70gram paper is much better and cheaper.


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> how about if your are going to print cmyk?whats the step by step?thanks


Last color white print it twice.


----------



## chard

do you print wet on wet when printing cmyk?


----------



## RUNTRUETEE

Are you using a regular plastisol for this?


----------



## bircanboss

RUNTRUETEE said:


> Are you using a regular plastisol for this?


Yes Texopaque Classic OP from Sericol made by Fujifilm. I use the Advantage ON021 for white also by Sericol but all plastisol should work I guess.


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> do you print wet on wet when printing cmyk?


No you have to pass every color though the dryer separately.


----------



## chard

thanks for the info..gonna try it this weekend


----------



## chard

will this also work with plastisol with additives like suade, puff, etc?how about with adhesives?


----------



## bern

Thanks so much for this information , your timing is perfect for me as I am just buying a conveyor oven next week . Excellent post


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> will this also work with plastisol with additives like suade, puff, etc?how about with adhesives?


Never tried it with puff but I don't think it will work, puff needs a nice paper like Arjo wiggins and the powder glue. You could try I guess... You'll only screw up a piece of paper and some cloth but give it a shot


----------



## RUNTRUETEE

bircanboss said:


> Yes Texopaque Classic OP from Sericol made by Fujifilm. I use the Advantage ON021 for white also by Sericol but all plastisol should work I guess.


Thanks Bircanboss, We're from Philippines and I'm just starting my steps in plastisol printing. Great post here!


----------



## midwaste

That is pretty damn cool. I never thought of just trying printing transfers on regular paper. You are just flashing them through the dryer, right?

Nice method of aligning the sheets with the clips! Lack of a vacuum table is what really kept me from trying.


----------



## chard

what setting do you use to press those transfers?


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> what setting do you use to press those transfers?


360-370 degrees on cotton for 10 seconds, 350 degrees on polyester for 5 seconds.


----------



## chard

do you peel it while its hot or let it cool?i tested some samples last time but i cant get it right..sometimes its not transferring to the shirt and sometimes the paper adheres also to the shirt..


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> do you peel it while its hot or let it cool?i tested some samples last time but i cant get it right..sometimes its not transferring to the shirt and sometimes the paper adheres also to the shirt..


Not hot and not cold, warm. Remember that there is a good side of the paper and a bad side. Experiment with both sides of the paper and you will see that one of the sides transfers better.


----------



## RUNTRUETEE

Can we also cure it with a heat gun if flash dryer is not available?
and seems like most of the bond paper here in the market(philippines), ordinary ones, have the same texture each side.


----------



## bircanboss

RUNTRUETEE said:


> Can we also cure it with a heat gun if flash dryer is not available?
> and seems like most of the bond paper here in the market(philippines), ordinary ones, have the same texture each side.


Never tried it with a heat gun, don't see why it wouldn't work. I've found that the corners of the good side of the paper seem to curl up when you pass it through the drier,
just slightly but enough to tell me it's the right side to print on.


----------



## bircanboss

midwaste said:


> That is pretty damn cool. I never thought of just trying printing transfers on regular paper. You are just flashing them through the dryer, right?
> 
> Nice method of aligning the sheets with the clips! Lack of a vacuum table is what really kept me from trying.


Yaa the clips are just the metal sliders from old floppies, I cut them and bend them in two, then tape them down with scotch tape


----------



## jamerican352005

Hey your taking our jobs hahaha Kidding! Great informative post. If you guys get tired of printing the transfers yourself then please let me do it for you


----------



## wurzer9599

what kind of storage life have you gotten out of these?


----------



## bircanboss

wurzer9599 said:


> what kind of storage life have you gotten out of these?


I vacuum seal them and they last for years, but leave them out in the open and in about a years time you will have trouble printing them.


----------



## garybt

I have a flash dryer but no conveyor. Any idea on what temperature I'm looking at to cure these?


----------



## bircanboss

garybt said:


> I have a flash dryer but no conveyor. Any idea on what temperature I'm looking at to cure these?


You don't want to cure plastisol transfers, you want to gel them. Experiment with time and temperature so when you touch it no ink goes on your fingers.


----------



## vctradingcubao

Very informative and "inspiring", thanks. I will ask my printer to try this out.


----------



## bern

bircanboss said:


> I vacuum seal them and they last for years, but leave them out in the open and in about a years time you will have trouble printing them.


Hi Bircanboss I have a question for regarding the vacuum sealing of your transfers . I have had a look online and a lot of the vacuum units are small and so are the vacuum bags that suit these machines . Do you have a commercial grade vacuum sealer for this process or do you use the vacuum bags that come with the valve attached ?. I really need to start sealing my transfers properly as some are drying out . Thanks . Bernie


----------



## bircanboss

bern said:


> Hi Bircanboss I have a question for regarding the vacuum sealing of your transfers . I have had a look online and a lot of the vacuum units are small and so are the vacuum bags that suit these machines . Do you have a commercial grade vacuum sealer for this process or do you use the vacuum bags that come with the valve attached ?. I really need to start sealing my transfers properly as some are drying out . Thanks . Bernie


Mine is just one of those small ones, you can seal a small portion from each end and then use the vacuum on the middle part to vacuum seal it. It will take some practice but it's not that hard


----------



## bern

bircanboss said:


> Mine is just one of those small ones, you can seal a small portion from each end and then use the vacuum on the middle part to vacuum seal it. It will take some practice but it's not that hard


Thanks so much for that , I could not figure it out .


----------



## MotoskinGraphix

Excellent post Bircan. If I go to the office supply store what paper am I looking for? Is the paper even sold in an office supply store?


----------



## bircanboss

MotoskinGraphix said:


> Excellent post Bircan. If I go to the office supply store what paper am I looking for? Is the paper even sold in an office supply store?


I get mine from an offset printing company here in town, the paper is 27inches by 39.5inches. I get them to cut it for me into manageable sizes. Much cheaper this way  Don't forget that the paper I use has a good side and a bad side, you gotta experiment to see which side transfers better.


----------



## chard

here's my video pressing the plastisol transfer..here's my second attemp..the first one is a failure because i peeled it cold..after following the instructions of bircanboss, the second trial is a little success..i must say not bad for a second trial doing a cmyk transfer..the paper i used is a "used" paper that has a print on one side but hey, it still works..^_^

white shirt
[MEDIA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nN5g_i8mAR4[/MEDIA]
black shirt
[MEDIA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-h9RoXcJ2A8[/MEDIA]

thanks again bircanboss for this great thread


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> here's my video pressing the plastisol transfer..here's my second attemp..the first one is a failure because i peeled it cold..after following the instructions of bircanboss, the second trial is a little success..i must say not bad for a second trial doing a cmyk transfer..the paper i used is a "used" paper that has a print on one side but hey, it still works..^_^
> 
> white shirt
> [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nN5g_i8mAR4[/media]
> black shirt
> [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-h9RoXcJ2A8[/media]
> 
> thanks again bircanboss for this great thread


Chard those look great!!! I'm glad I could help, man I gotta try some cmyk prints now


----------



## chard

im wondering if these can be done on silicone paper or baking paper as it is non stick and maybe pressing will be a lot easier..on the video i just used it as a substitute for teflon sheet..


----------



## bircanboss

chard said:


> im wondering if these can be done on silicone paper or baking paper as it is non stick and maybe pressing will be a lot easier..on the video i just used it as a substitute for teflon sheet..


I've tried lots of different paper, the waxy ones leave a residue on the print after printing and they make the print shine as if it were pressed with teflon. I like the dull look you get from normal paper and it's softer to the touch. But try any paper you want and keep us posted


----------



## garybt

This has me experimenting nearly all weekend! I tried copy paper. First time perfect but the second time the print stuck right to the paper. I tried it with the adhesive and it leaves a "film" or "glaze" to the backround even after washing. The best result I had so far was parchment or "baking" paper. Excellent transfer properties but I can seem to find the right time/ temp yet to properly gel the ink. It looks good on the shirt but it hasnt cured the whole way through.


----------



## bircanboss

garybt said:


> This has me experimenting nearly all weekend! I tried copy paper. First time perfect but the second time the print stuck right to the paper. I tried it with the adhesive and it leaves a "film" or "glaze" to the backround even after washing. The best result I had so far was parchment or "baking" paper. Excellent transfer properties but I can seem to find the right time/ temp yet to properly gel the ink. It looks good on the shirt but it hasnt cured the whole way through.


On the copy paper thing, try a lower gram paper like 70grms, and remember it has a bad side. When you gel the ink find a temperature that just gels it not cures it. If you cure it the ink will stay on the paper. You have to experiment until you find the right time and temperature, after that it's easy. When you heat press the transfer don't cold peel it, it's more like warm peel, not too hot and not too cold. And most of all have fun!


----------



## dk prints

What would be the benifit passing the screen over paper , than just printing on shirt.
I don't understand , unless to print on paper to use later.
Thanks for reply
dk


----------



## chard

you already figured out one of the answers, to be used later in time..another is not all do screen printing and instead they have a heat press so they order transfers for them to press..


----------



## bern

dk prints said:


> What would be the benifit passing the screen over paper , than just printing on shirt.
> I don't understand , unless to print on paper to use later.
> Thanks for reply
> dk


I have only just started to print Plastisol transfers but I can see the benefits of transfers in the way it enables me to supply a wider base of customers . For example I have a motorcycle club that is new in town with only a small amount of members however they are growing . The president of the club went and got quotes for screenprinting but he cannot afford to stock all the shirt sizes and only wants a shirt when a new member joins .I have printed his design onto paper and have a quantity on hand . Now it is a perfect arrangement for both of us if he wants 1 or twenty shirts . Takes seconds to heatpress the design on a shirt and you keep a customer who will keep coming back . Since I am also new at screenprinting it is much better for me to make a mistake screenprinting paper than screenprinting a shirt . Screenprinting White ink on Black shirts is a technique that I had not mastered and I am happy with finished product when I use Transflex Super White onto transfer paper . 

I want to be able to offer both printing to shirts directly and plastisol transfers .


----------



## cmyk

i found the clips on youtibe a few weeks ago and i got all excited once again: this is the answer - i said to myself, i don't need 6 colour press, i don't need a lot of space, a can use only one screen with all the designs burned on it (if the design is small enough to fit all the colors on one screen, of course), i don't need special expesive paper and adhesive powder.
last summer i did some experimenting with plastisol transfers using the glossy support paper from adhesive vinyl, no powder.
and i used a hean gun to gel the ink.
i did one or two tries on caps and it worked out very nice, although i wasn't very happy with the shiny finish.
two days ago i though i have all i need to start using this method and i experimented with some glossy pretty thik paper. total disaster
the print transfers ok mostly (but sometimes it doesn't, but it looks like it isn't cured.
i then switchd to 90gr copy paper.
total disaster 2 
the paper sticks to the shirt like it is welded when almost cold, and the ink doesn't transfer, if i try to remove the paper while hot.
ok, i will try with some 70 gr paper, and figure out what is the good side.
the big advantage for a begiiner is, in my opinion, that it is possible to prin multiple color design without investing in a expensive multicolor machine; also, you don't need a lot of space.
thanks bircanboss, i'm glad i found you here, because i intended to start a post ponting to your videoclips on youtube.


----------



## acetransco

Good Day,

We use to use un-coated paper to produce screen printed transfers (Hot Split Transfers), Now we use a 1 sided coated sheet for transfers, which allows use to produce a Hot Peel Transfers, we can print greater detail with this paper, and takes the guess work on which side to use?, and less chance of having problems when transferring, the paper is called Ultra Strip, and is very inexpensive to purchase.

Regards, ATC


----------



## chard

when you say inexpensive, how much does it cost?


----------



## bircanboss

cmyk said:


> i found the clips on youtibe a few weeks ago and i got all excited once again: this is the answer - i said to myself, i don't need 6 colour press, i don't need a lot of space, a can use only one screen with all the designs burned on it (if the design is small enough to fit all the colors on one screen, of course), i don't need special expesive paper and adhesive powder.
> last summer i did some experimenting with plastisol transfers using the glossy support paper from adhesive vinyl, no powder.
> and i used a hean gun to gel the ink.
> i did one or two tries on caps and it worked out very nice, although i wasn't very happy with the shiny finish.
> two days ago i though i have all i need to start using this method and i experimented with some glossy pretty thik paper. total disaster
> the print transfers ok mostly (but sometimes it doesn't, but it looks like it isn't cured.
> i then switchd to 90gr copy paper.
> total disaster 2
> the paper sticks to the shirt like it is welded when almost cold, and the ink doesn't transfer, if i try to remove the paper while hot.
> ok, i will try with some 70 gr paper, and figure out what is the good side.
> the big advantage for a begiiner is, in my opinion, that it is possible to prin multiple color design without investing in a expensive multicolor machine; also, you don't need a lot of space.
> thanks bircanboss, i'm glad i found you here, because i intended to start a post ponting to your videoclips on youtube.


Yaaa the photocopy paper is not that great, your settings have to dead on every time to get good results, that's why I've found the 70gr offset paper to be much better and much more forgiving. If your still having trouble then I suggest contacting your screen supplier and getting real transfer paper. It takes time to find the right settings that work for your equipment. I've experimented for years on all types of paper, so my settings are dead on. Good luck and take care


----------



## bircanboss

Here's a picture of the label of the paper I am using. If you show it to an offset printer I'm sure he will give you the correct paper


----------



## dk prints

Thank you, I understand. I read all the replies. One thing....If I had a design that was 6 colors...wouldn't I still need 6 different screens?


----------



## chard

most probably yes..but it also depends on the size of the design and your screen..and also your setup if it allow you to have 2 registration on 1 screen..


----------



## bircanboss

dk prints said:


> Thank you, I understand. I read all the replies. One thing....If I had a design that was 6 colors...wouldn't I still need 6 different screens?


It depends on the design, I regularly put 2,3,4 colors on one screen. I close up the colors that I'm not printing, print that one color, clean the screen then do another color. You can do that if the colors are not close together. For a six color design you can use 2 maybe 3 screens, saves lots of time and money


----------



## dk prints

thanks....this way or DTG....which looks better ? what do u think?


----------



## chard

i think it depends on the purpose and preference..


----------



## bircanboss

dk prints said:


> thanks....this way or DTG....which looks better ? what do u think?


For me, personally, I am scared of DTG. I live on a small island with no chance of service. I'm scared of buying a 20k machine and having it just sit in the corner. But after reading tons of posts on the subject, if I were to get a machine for just whites, it would be the Brother. If I wanted to print on darks, it would be the Belquette MOD1 with the bag system, or a Kiosk 2 with the Belquette bag system. But that's just my opinion.


----------



## dk prints

I have two people that will do the printing for me. I wondered about the different look. I'll have to test this with the same design....and than their's vinyl. but the plastisol transfers seem to be the better way to go using "print on demand "
Thank you every one
dk


----------



## dk prints

do you store on transfer in one bag ? or can you fit as many as you can together?


----------



## bircanboss

dk prints said:


> do you store on transfer in one bag ? or can you fit as many as you can together?


You can put in as many as will fit. 1 transfer per bag is a waste. I usually put them in 50 at a time but some are 100.


----------



## garybt

Bircan, typically what mesh do you use? And do you coat the emulsion heavy on the substrate side? Just wonderin?


----------



## bircanboss

garybt said:


> Bircan, typically what mesh do you use? And do you coat the emulsion heavy on the substrate side? Just wonderin?


For spot colors, letters, puff and numbers I use 32 threads/cm or something like 80 threads/inch mesh. For the detailed stuff like small writing and halftones my mesh is 50 threads/cm or something like 130 threads/inch mesh. I only coat once on the transfer side. I use sericol dirasol 916 emulsion. My exposure unit is a 500w halogen 16 inches from the glass. I burn the 32 mesh for 15 to 16 minutes (sometimes I forget the screen and it burns for 30 minutes but it's very forgiving emulsion it stills comes out  The 50 mesh I burn for 10 minutes for halftones and 12 minutes for detailed writing.


----------



## Rainey

bircanboss said:


> I close up the colors that I'm not printing, print that one color, clean the screen then do another color.


Could you explain the "close out". Do you tape them off or do you have another method? 

Thanks for all of the info. I have been wanting to try this and the info here has helped me make my mind up to try it.


----------



## bircanboss

Rainey said:


> Could you explain the "close out". Do you tape them off or do you have another method?
> 
> Thanks for all of the info. I have been wanting to try this and the info here has helped me make my mind up to try it.


Yes I put multiple colors on one screen and tape off the ones I'm not using. You can see this in the video below :
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeRWwKzFWcM[/media]
The pink screen also has red and a sepia kinda color


----------



## neutronbomb

I read this threat this morning and it's been spinning in my mind all day.
Any chance of reuploading your videos? The links don't seem to work. I'd really like to see them.


----------



## thehappyshirt

Hi, I read all post but I cant understand how can we able to keep them for a long time?

Thank you! [email protected]


----------



## thehappyshirt

I just tried it but the design didnt transfer on the shirt.


----------

