# Printing 1 color transfers for labels?



## mutuala1d (Jun 20, 2016)

So the shop I work at has decided to make a clothing line of its own. This has been really fun, but problems to solve crop up of course. I'm here looking for help with one of those problems

Labels... We want to have a consistent tagless label used on all the pieces. In researching and asking other printers we know, we found that Plastisol Transfers might be a great option. But we need more info!

It's surprisingly difficult to find info on blank transfer paper, while custom or stock plastisol prints are everywhere. So, what are the highest quality plastisol transfer papers? What is the best USA supplier selling them, and the other products used in plastisol transfers?

Basically the pieces we are putting out are sweatshirts and simply screen printing a tagless label on that fleece inner part of the garment is so inconsistent and ugly. Hoping this solves that issue[/FONT]


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## gardenhillemb (Oct 29, 2015)

We've been printing our own plastisol transfers for 30 years. We use Arjowiggins T75 paper. You can also now get transfer paper from OneStrokeInks.com I recently did an order of 300 sweatshirts that were printed on the hoods so I did tranfers and pressed on my hat press. Much easier than trying to print on the hoods.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

If you don't usually do transfers I would just order them. It's not hard or complicated but requires precise temperature control.


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## sandhopper2 (Apr 26, 2010)

I have not done transfers in a long time , but I used parchment paper very cheap but works good . Like everything the pre curing time and temp is very important . If you are doing alot do a gang transfer sheet and be done with it


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

mutuala1d said:


> Basically the pieces we are putting out are sweatshirts and simply screen printing a tagless label on that fleece inner part of the garment is so inconsistent and ugly. Hoping this solves that issue[/FONT]



Transfers on fleece is not much less ugly. It's why you don't see a lot of tagless sweats. 

Workarounds are 1) print 2 color transfers with a solid background block &/or 2) use clippers to shave away an area to have a bare surface to transfer/screen print.

Also, if you're a screen printer, why go through 2 steps to get tagless labels? It doubles your labor cost. Just screen direct on your garments.


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

splathead said:


> Also, if you're a screen printer, why go through 2 steps to get tagless labels? It doubles your labor cost. Just screen direct on your garments.


No it doesn't, you can use cheaper labor, temporaries, or have office staff or helpers press during slow times. That's what we did back when I was still pulling a squeegee, although we printed our own transfers. Plus hat presses are cheaper than printing presses. No need to tie up expensive presses and labor just for labels.


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## sublial (Mar 24, 2011)

Does the ink stick to the parchment paper alright?
Do you hot peel or cold peel it when pressing?
Can you purchase Parchment paper in heavier thicknesses?
AL


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## sandhopper2 (Apr 26, 2010)

sublial said:


> Does the ink stick to the parchment paper alright?
> Do you hot peel or cold peel it when pressing?
> Can you purchase Parchment paper in heavier thicknesses?
> AL



I used ordinary parchment paper from the $ tree , after printing run through the conveyor drying to pre cure to 200* then press on heat press at 320* for 15 seconds hot peel 

Only good for 1 color prints as a flash caused paper to shrink


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## splathead (Dec 4, 2005)

sandhopper2 said:


> Only good for 1 color prints as a flash caused paper to shrink



For multiple color transfers, preheat the paper first.


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## sandhopper2 (Apr 26, 2010)

Raining here in socal , so doing a little transfer work 

I have a sample Excostencial paper to burn the screen , works good so far . Using the parchment paper and some white plastisol ink and the DIY conveyor drier 

Sorry could not load the video


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## smacity (Jun 24, 2012)

I have some good success with making one color transers. vastex vacuumn platen 160 mesh one stroke elts (low temp-ink, fashion powder and whatever paper they sell forget the actual name. since the ink is low cure you run it in your dryer with with powder to 250 degrees. press at 290 for 10 second. and can use on any fabric due to low temp. Only issue is ink is overpriced and so is shipping but products works well


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## sandhopper2 (Apr 26, 2010)

Well having trouble with the Excostensil screen , it breaks down after a few prints . I'm following the instructions, marry papers at 210*for 25sec peel hot , press to screen at 400* for 120 sec peel cold. Tape off the screen and start printing after a few prints the blocking starts to break down. Does anyone have ideas how to fix this ? I have tried to do a second press after the cold peel for 400* for 30 sec still no help. I really like how this works if I can get it to last for a lot longer


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## sandhopper2 (Apr 26, 2010)

I have tried several times and this stuff does not work for me, maybe it is the HP black toner 

I'm going back to a normal emulsion screen for now , but would love to hear from someone that has made this work and what printer you are using


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## TABOB (Feb 13, 2018)

sandhopper2 said:


> I have tried several times and this stuff does not work for me, maybe it is the HP black toner


It's not the tonner. These stencils don't last long, and it gets even worse when your mesh tension is not perfect, or if you use a lot of pressure and multiple print strokes. They are intended for small multicolor jobs... like 12 shirts or so.


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