# I cleaned a TOTALLY plugged Epson 3000 Print Head



## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

I bought an Epson 3000 that was in storage for several years--a $100.00 gamble. It arrived 4 days later on UPS with the black print head TOTALLY plugged, and the color head partially plugged. The color head recovered after several days of fiddling.

After many self cleanings and parking the heads on Windex soaked pads, I finally ordered a new black head. With the new head on the way, I suddenly got more brave and took out the old head to experiment with various cleaning methods and solvents. 

I tried lots of solvents I had in the shop, as I had nothing to lose. I just tried them around the edge of the head, not internally or directly on the nozzles. Somewhat discouraged by my results, I skeptically boiled a cleaned coffee cup full of DISTILLED water in the microwave and when the dirty head was barely dipped into the still hot, distilled water--to my delight the cup INSTANTLY filled with black ink Hot water was CLEARLY the winner. 

So, having found my solvent, I went to the hobby store to buy a short length of tiny model airplane fuel line for my attachment "nipple" to fit between a hypodermic syringe and the ink post on the print head.

I simply sucked hot, distilled water out of the cup of hot water into the syringe, and gently injected in into the plugged head. At first I got ZERO fluid out, so I also dipped the tip of the printhead into the still hot water cup, while GENTLY pushing the hot water into the head from my syringe. Voilla! One or Two nozzles began to open.

In bright light, I could actually watch the hot water jet out into the open air. At first just a few sprayed out, and then more and more nozzles opened up, during this decidedly prolonged process. 

I was able to predict which nozzles would open next, by observing a tiny black dot on each print head nozzle, confirmed by corresponding black dot on a white paper towel used as a blotter. Toward the end of the process, I also let the printhead (with hot water syringe still attacjed) rest, nozzles down, on a saucer containing a small amount of Windex. I don't know if that helped or not. A couple of hours were spanned during each cleaning proceedure, all of which were done with the print head on the bench, not installed in the printer.

Almost unbelievably, it is now printing just fine. With patience, gentleness, and persistence I believe I have saved my print head, which arrived dead as a hammer.

I you wish to try this process, remember you must be gentle, VERY patient, and don't use Tap Water. At least I didn't--due to concerns about minerals plugging the tiny nozzles. Heat water, flush head, wait. Repeat, repeat, repeat. A day or two might not even be long enough. 

In my case, I spread out the process over about 24 hours. And the Windex might help, I can’t say for sure. I’ve read some posts that Windex isn’t the best of ideas. I elected NOT to suck fluid back from the head into the syringe through the nozzles, but I might have done so, if I hadn't been encouraged by my results. Methinks "minimum stress required" is the order of the day.

A usable service manual is available in pdf format. I found mine on fixyourownprinter.com. Disassembly of this printer is not for cowards, but the service manuals helps a lot.


I'd be pleased if this info might be helpful for someone, just as others in this forum have helped me. Sorry it is so long.

Stan


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## LogoDaddy (Sep 26, 2007)

simple green is what i have heard works better that windex...but cool, glad for the info!!!


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## sunnydayz (Jun 22, 2007)

Thanks Stan  This is a really great method that also works for DTG printheads. I agree that you should not use windex as most of them contain a wax, that can actually cause more clogging. I too have found warmed distilled water to work good. There is also a solution sold by most dtg companies, that works great on clogs and makes them break look much easier. 

Thanks so much for posting your step by step results. I am sure this will help many people with printhead clogs.


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## PositiveDave (Dec 1, 2008)

Well done, but NEVER push ink through the nozzle, you should always pull.
The inks are microfiltered, any bit of dust may cause a head block.
Tap water is BAD.
Distilled water, boiled is good.
Hold the head over boiling water and allow it to condense on the head - very distilled.
Never use ultrasound, they fall to bits, I needed a fishing net to recover the parts


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## hawthorne prints (Apr 6, 2009)

good info .....now i will always know what to do, when that happens


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

PositiveDave said:


> Well done, but NEVER push ink through the nozzle, you should always pull.


I'm curious as to why pulling hot water into the head is superior to pushing it out. It seems backward to me, going opposite to the normal flow of ink. I'm not saying it's wrong, its just counter-intuitive. Can you explain?

I had already read about the problems attempting to clean with ultrasound. Way too severe, I guess. 

At any rate, the output of this printer seems better for film positives than the Canon i9900 I was using. I didn't have much trouble with using the Canon for spot color seps, but I'm currently trying to learn 4 Color Process and it wasn't working very well. I'm just glad the Epson is finally up and running.

Stan


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## sunnydayz (Jun 22, 2007)

The reason pulling through the print head is better then pushing through, is that if there is any debris stuck inside they will come back out by pulling through the nozzle. If you push through the nozzle, you may get particles stuck that are too big to fit through the spray nozzles on the face of the print head, since those holes are much smaller then the ones in the top nozzles. Hope this explains well why one way is better then the other. Another reason is that if you use to much pressure on pushing fluid through, it can cause the face of the print head to delaminate, which will cause ink leakage out the sides of the print head.


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## PositiveDave (Dec 1, 2008)

Couldn't have put it better myself.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

sunnydayz said:


> The reason pulling through the print head is better then pushing through, is that if there is any debris stuck inside they will come back out by pulling through the nozzle. If you push through the nozzle, you may get particles stuck that are too big to fit through the spray nozzles on the face of the print head, since those holes are much smaller then the ones in the top nozzles. Hope this explains well why one way is better then the other. Another reason is that if you use to much pressure on pushing fluid through, it can cause the face of the print head to delaminate, which will cause ink leakage out the sides of the print head.


OK. I can see the validity of both points. But how then, if the flow is only backwards, would you verify that the nozzles are finally clean? 

Perhaps the syringe would only show clear fluid, but as severe as the problem was in my case, I have my doubts. There was very little tint left in the distilled discharge water at the point where several nozzles were still not opened. Drawing water backward wouldn't have alerted me to that fact. Still, with patience, I think they might have opened eventually even with your backflush idea. You just wouldn't necessarily know your progress, without reassembling the printer and doing a printhead check.

What do you think? 

Stan


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## Guest (Apr 9, 2009)

Hi,

I've been reading the posts concerning cleaning Epson heads (I still use my 1520) and have found an old solution to this new technology...Glycerin.

Glycerin is an emollient, an ingredient that helps to balance or maintain moisture levels. We used Glycerin back in the 70's to keep our water based inks from drying out too quickly, recently I've used it again when printing water base inks manually and to keep my Epson 1520 print heads from drying out.

Another trick I found to save ink was to never turn off my printers unless it was absolutely necessary. Every time you turn a printer back on it has to recharge the cartridges and uses more ink than the minor amount of electricity to keep it on. Just a passing thought, I'd like to hear if anyone else has gotten the same results.

Take two aspirin and email me in the morning...


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## sunnydayz (Jun 22, 2007)

Stan Hoover said:


> OK. I can see the validity of both points. But how then, if the flow is only backwards, would you verify that the nozzles are finally clean?
> 
> Perhaps the syringe would only show clear fluid, but as severe as the problem was in my case, I have my doubts. There was very little tint left in the distilled discharge water at the point where several nozzles were still not opened. Drawing water backward wouldn't have alerted me to that fact. Still, with patience, I think they might have opened eventually even with your backflush idea. You just wouldn't necessarily know your progress, without reassembling the printer and doing a printhead check.
> 
> ...


When I have cleaned a printhead this way, I have pulled the solution first, then after it is pulling through fairly easy, I will push it through. At this point the solution will normally go through the printhead really easy, with little pressure and flow fairly clear. So basically I pull through first, and then push once I have decent flow, to see if I am getting a straight accross spray of my nozzles.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

sunnydayz said:


> ...pulled the solution first, then after it is pulling through fairly easy, I will push it through. At this point the solution will normally go through the printhead really easy, with little pressure and flow fairly clear. So basically I pull through first, and then push once I have decent flow, to see if I am getting a straight accross spray of my nozzles.


Perfect. Have you performed this multiple times on one head? 

This is new ground for me, and I wonder about the limits. I will NOT be using OEM inks due to $$ and potentially Dmax properties, and I'm aware that there may be recurring issues with black inks clogging nozzles.

I'm inclined to believe this printer will mechanically outlive the printheads in any case, and perhaps a "boneyard" of parts wouldn't be completely silly. I am making decent halftone positives which was NEVER easy before. The 1440 setting on Ink Jet Back Light Film has changed my whole mood.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

theprintsurgeon said:


> I've been reading the posts concerning cleaning Epson heads (I still use my 1520) and have found an old solution to this new technology...Glycerin.
> 
> Glycerin is an emollient, an ingredient that helps to balance or maintain moisture levels. We used Glycerin back in the 70's to keep our water based inks from drying out too quickly, recently I've used it again when printing water base inks manually and to keep my Epson 1520 print heads from drying out.


Looks like a potential problem solver, especially for infrequent printer use.

Could you detail the process a bit? 

Thanks.
Stan


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## aris (Feb 23, 2009)

I am in the process of cleaning an Epson 3000 too. I have been able to push solvent through the heads without unmounting them. Also, the pumps have filled the little reservoirs half way on all colours after washing them then putting the printer through an ink recharge cycle. The printer seems to obey the computer however, I get NO print.

I am about to pull the heads out and apply Stan's hot soup method.

@stan Did you have much trouble putting the heads back in the printer?

Cheers!


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

aris said:


> I am in the process of cleaning an Epson 3000 too. I have been able to push solvent through the heads without unmounting them. Also, the pumps have filled the little reservoirs half way on all colours after washing them then putting the printer through an ink recharge cycle. The printer seems to obey the computer however, I get NO print.
> 
> I am about to pull the heads out and apply Stan's hot soup method.
> 
> ...


Sorry for the slow reply, Aris. And welcome to the Forum! 

No, replacing the heads was MUCH easier than the case disassembly process. Find the previously mentioned service manual for that. 

The most difficult process on my particulalar printer, after getting the plastic tabs/locks both released at the same time ):- ( was lifting the little baffle thingies off the printhead. (I forget what they are called in the manual, and I'm typing this lying on bed on my phone--can't sleep--so I'm not gonna look.) The bafflish whazzits are supposed to lift straight up off the heads.... but they are a very snug fit. I wound up removing the black head/ink baffle as a unit, then separating them with a slight twist. GENTLE here.... these parts seem fragile! I later cut the aforementioned plastic *&[email protected]#!! tab dealies right off. MUCH easier servicing now!

Naw, replacing the heads is a snap, comparatively. Nothing like many canon printers though--those are a 10 second wonder!

Stay with that Epson 3000. They're gems for film positives! 

Stan


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## mickzone (Apr 12, 2010)

you can still buy parts for old epsons the 800/1520 black heads £54 plus vat plus £10 delivery colour is £56
blacks ar ins stock..

these are prices direct from the supplier Im not re selling these just passing on the info..

epson 900 heads were £34 last time i checked


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## Bruce McCallum (Nov 13, 2010)

Hi - I'm new to this Forum and I am trying to stay within the rules of no ads, etc. but as I am an ex-publisher, I am looking for a new home for an Epson 3000. ANy ideas? Thank you


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## Theinkjetdoctor (Apr 5, 2008)

Better to just soak the capping station for a few days and repeat. Try simpple green. Never use pressure with a syringe as it will blow the head


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## pdd (Mar 13, 2014)

this technique really works, thanks a lot Stan!


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## KristineH (Jan 23, 2013)

I know this is an old thread - Anyone have a manual for taking the printhead out of an Epson Stylus Color 3000? I have a clogged head and cannot for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart.


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## Stan Hoover (Jan 28, 2009)

KristineH,

Check your private messages in a few minutes regarding instructions.

Stan


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## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

Try this guys. Under how to clean an epson printhead.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/neoflex/t216285.html
downloadable pdf file.


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## VittoVictoria (May 29, 2014)

Hi Guys! Sorry for the stupid question , but all this methods above are related only to DTG and special inks? It is not compatible with heads that have been used with solvent based inks?


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## ukracer (Feb 11, 2010)

mickzone said:


> you can still buy parts for old epsons the 800/1520 black heads £54 plus vat plus £10 delivery colour is £56
> blacks ar ins stock..
> 
> these are prices direct from the supplier Im not re selling these just passing on the info..
> ...


epson 1400 heads are now very expensive. which is a shame as I am trying to find two new heads here in the UK.


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## spiderx1 (Oct 12, 2009)

VittoVictoria said:


> Hi Guys! Sorry for the stupid question , but all this methods above are related only to DTG and special inks? It is not compatible with heads that have been used with solvent based inks?


The methods are compatible but you would need to use a solvent cleaning solution vs the windex or dtg cleaning solution.


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## uncoolthreads (Mar 19, 2014)

aris said:


> I am in the process of cleaning an Epson 3000 too. I have been able to push solvent through the heads without unmounting them. Also, the pumps have filled the little reservoirs half way on all colours after washing them then putting the printer through an ink recharge cycle. The printer seems to obey the computer however, I get NO print.
> 
> I am about to pull the heads out and apply Stan's hot soup method.
> @stan Did you have much trouble putting the heads back in the printer?
> ...


If you need to know how to get the printhead out and also put it back then you can follow along with this video. I found it invaluable. These guys have a DIY tshirt printing system called spectra (I'm not associated) AND it's based on the R3000

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tKp-48_2TU

Hope that helps- it did me!


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## licketyprint (Oct 14, 2007)

I just received a gift of a Epson Stylus 3000 with totally clogged heads, it was free, so why not! My question is how do I access the head? I see the little trap door in front but there are these metal panels in the way. Thanks in advance.


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## pspemb (Jan 31, 2011)

I own several Epson 3000 printers that operated when I put them up last year. If anyone wants to buy them I’m open to offers. I upgraded to an Epson 4900.


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## mvanhorn (Aug 11, 2017)

I am also looking for the instructions to remove/clean an Epson Stylus 3000 print head/s.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!


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