# Teflon pillow and tape question



## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Pressing some red wick shirts. I keep the transfer in place using teflon tape. I just noticed on the red shirts that the tape is leaving a outline. 
Is this gonna be like the press marks and not disappear over time or is it there permanent ?

Also using a teflon pillow between the shirt. I have been aligining the transfers before I stick the teflon pillow in. Or is it better to stick the pillow in and then align. When I slide the pillow in the transfer then appears crooked to me. But using the aligning tool is kinda pain with the pillow in the way.

Thanks
Mark


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi Mark,
I've seen on some coloured coolbest fabric we use for some apparel, that the tape leaves a mark. I didn't wash it out so I don't know if it's permanent. I suspect it would be. What I do is barely stick the tape of the edge of the transfer - only enough to stick and I place it lengthwise along the paper, not sticking out perpendicular to it. I think it has to do with the fabric's colour. When I press yellow, red and orange fabric, I need three different settings and only the yellow and orange leave tape marks - strange.

I use repositional spray to help with the tape in this case, but the spray can be seen sometimes as little tiny dots, depending on the fabric, so I don't go overboard with it.

I use the Vapor foam kit - I haven't tried teflon pillows. With the foam, you can do it either way but I like to stick my transfer down first.


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## D.Evo. (Mar 31, 2006)

Hi Mark,

I never use tape on apparel and only sometimes use positioning spray.
Generally, I put an insert in first (like foam or Teflon pillow) than position a transfer and carefully place either Teflon sheet or just a sheet on butcher's paper to weigh down a transfer and stop it from moving. Works for me every time.

To check if the outline of your heat tape is permanent I would re-press the shirt without a transfer for 10 seconds or so and then gently pull the fabric around the lines in different directions - some fabrics will "bounce" back, some will stay compressed. 

Good luck!


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Hey Susie
I found that if I lowered my temp and upped my dwell time I didnt get as much tape markings. Plus I had the tape perpendicular to the transfer. Put it parallel and much better. Thanks.

I have the vapor foam kit but haven't had much luck with it. It says to cut 45 degree edges but haveint had good luck with it. Do you cut the edges ? 

Plus the transfers I got were made on a 42" epson printers so I had to cut them all out and they vary in size. Thats been a pain. Might be great to print out like that but I haven't found it fun to cut out 350+ logo and numbers on this roll paper. 

Thanks
Mark


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Tania
All these logos and numbers came in a big ol' roll so they are curved up so I have to tape down. (I have had the tape for like a year + and first time I have really used it.) I had to press tonite to get the job down. I couldn't wait till they smoothed out. I have the pro spray from conde but haven't liked it. Haven't used it much but a couple of times and once to spray a roach that invaded my turf. As much as some of there were curved up doubt the spray would have held them down.

Will try to repress and stretch.

Thanks
Mark


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi Mark

Glad it's working out better. Just a little experimentation goes a long way! 

What I find is with coloured fabrics, especially reds, yellows and oranges, less pressure is better but then in this case you might find you need some kind of tape/spray. Heavy pressure (in combo with heat/dwell) can make coloured fabrics discolour slightly. 

Whether or not the image will shift, in my experience, depends on how much pressure you're applying. Shifting can occur with thin fabrics too. You may not need any tape/glue if you're pressing quite heavily. I almost never have any shifting (no tape or spray) when I press thick fabric with heavy pressure.

Another trick I tried, if the tape does show and you still really need to use it, is somewhere inside the image you might have some white areas - you can cut out some small areas with an exacto knife and stick tape over the hole. Just enough to stick the paper down. The tape doesn't really show because it's inside the image and you can't really tell. Doesn't work for all art, but it worked in that particular case for me.

About the foam - I've had great success with it and highly recommend it. You must bevel the edges at 45 degress otherwise you'll have a foam line instead of a paper line! 

Hold the foam along the edge of a table and cut it with long scissors (like dressmakers shears). Longer scissors will give you a nicer edge. It doesn't have to be perfect, just enough so there is so sharp line along the edge of the foam. It's ok if it's kind of jaggedy. You need to cut your transfers out at least 1/2 an inch beyond the edge of the foam so the paper hangs off the edge. Lines will never be an issue if you do this.

When you get near the end of the roll on the wide format you get more curling - it's quite a lot sometimes and when the paper is thick it can be tricky to keep it in place. It does help to keep your transfers down flat somewhere - but mine are not around long enough to flatten out usually.

I haven't tried that Pro Spray brand - I just went to Walmart and got some spray in the hardware dept. It's not really re-positionable, but on the directions it says if you only want a temporary bond, leave it for 2 minutes etc. It's easily removed and almost always works well. (plus it's half the price).

On the bright side - looks like you've got a nice order there!
Good luck with the rest!


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

I also love the Vapor foam. and if used so the paper (and tape) fall outside the pillow and image area you reduce the pressure applied on the tape which in turn does not cause a tape mark. One thing also to keep in mind, when your teflon pillow flattens out, slit it open and cut a piece of vapor foam to fit. "Walla" new teflon pillow for a fraction of the cost. Vapor foam has made a world of difference in my sublimation process!


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Although dye sub paper is not cheap when you buy it on 330' rolls it is not bad. With that said if you want to reduce the amount of time it takes, aligning issues, press lines, etc. print the logo on paper that is just larger then the shirt or press. Instanly no press line from the paper, much easier to align correctly if logo placement is correct and can increase production rate significantly. Trying to save $.50 on paper only to ruin a shirt that cost $5.00 will kill you in the long run.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

I have the 17" wide roll on the back of my 4880, it was a great deal but rarely use it. Allthough it is cheaper, I find it alot more time consuming aligning unless I have a huge design (rarely). I pretty much stick with full sheet 8 1/2X11 full sheets with pillow for left chests and 11X17, 13X19 or 17X21 sheets for everything else with appropriate size pillow. I do use the roll for other substrates where I can print a bunch of at once.Even then you have to be careful. You don't want to print out 50 mug layouts only to find that after the first 15 you need to clean or adjust something else that is out of whack.

Paper has never been the issue for me with Sublimation. It's the ink you have to be economical with.


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

I have to ask what kind of tape are we talking about, i have never used tape,, but would love to know
thanks
Sandy jo
MMM


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

I see what you mean about the paper, but I just can't stand the waste. Especially when we're talking about a big press. I've never had any trouble at all with a bit o' tape and a little overhang. I try to reduce my use of resources as much as possible, although I do recycle. I try not to use as much in the first place to save my conscience.

I suppose it would be ideal to have a range of press sizes then you could have the paper hang out all the time without using up too much. I've considered actually buying smaller presses, like a 6x6 for chest logos, which seem to be always popular. But I'd rather gang print and do the foam thingy. I don't find it much trouble at all and I'm always happy with the results. Alignment isn't an issue either. You get an eye for it after a while and it becomes fast and automatic.

The tape is good though, for some cases, like thin fabric or things requiring light pressure. I use it.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

The Tape we are talking about is a special high heat tape. You can get it from practically any sublimation supply distributer.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

sjidohair said:


> I have to ask what kind of tape are we talking about, i have never used tape,, but would love to know
> thanks
> Sandy jo
> MMM


Howdy 
Its called Teflon tape. 

Mark


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Cjoe Design said:


> I pretty much stick with full sheet 8 1/2X11 full sheets with pillow for left chests and 11X17, 13X19 or 17X21 sheets for everything else with appropriate size pillow.


What are the appropraite size pillows for 8.5x11 and 11x17 ?

Thanks
Mark


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

I quite honestly did not expect to get this big of a dye shirt job off the get go. I meet with these guys back in May I think. Then again in begining of July. Told them I needed to know by mid july at the latest. Then end of July I got the call. Was kinda thrilled then it went down from there.
They had no graphics for any of the 6 teams. Had no clue on fonts. Had nothing really. I had to start from old shirts they had from last season. 
So getting the Ricoh was part of this and wanted time to learn it before I jumped in but they gave me none. So outsourced the dye prints. And then I had no clue that it would come on huge rolls. I work at my house on this stuff and didn't really have room to roll it out and cut or anything. Plus the grand baby is here all the time and that would have been great to have her running thru it or pulling it down the hallway. YIKES.

Then of course I had to figure out the pressing -time/temp/pressure stuff. So got several fubared shirts Plus one were I forgot what side I was working on and put the numbers on the front and logo on the back. DOLT. Never know about the press lines staying on these shirts. I did some 40 shirts about a year ago with vinyl and never had any press lines that I recall. So that was another DANG IT moment. BUt will deal with it as it comes up.

I had 6 teams of about 20 shirts average. Nothing complex. Time was the killer here. And to boot the shirt people didn't have all the sizes in stock. UGH.

So this huge roll of logo's numbers had to be cut. More time I had not counted on not having. ThHen trying to get them uncurled was a bear. So had to go to the tape. And then the tape leaving their marks. ARGH. And then trying the vapor foam. Didn't get it right and have a shirt or two were the outer edges either didn't print or are fuzzy. ARGHH.
Couple turned out like that with the teflon pillow too. ARGHH. So now have couple shirts to wear around the house. 

Overall things are decent. Sure a couple will come back for one reason or another. More time would have helped. More expericence defiantely. 
I am definatley smarter about it. Definately have more clue what to ask if I outsource again. Definatley have a idea on the use of the pillow and tape. Same with time/temp /pressure. If I ever get enough money I think the next press will have a pressure gauge tho. I can see were that would help alot. 

ALOT (tons alot) of help came from this board. Thanks all.

Mark


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

_Its called Teflon tape. _

Mark[/quote]
Its not called teflon tape!!! do not buy Teflon tape its just heat transfer tape.

If you go to www.conde.com type heat tape and it will come up

its Heat Transfer Tape, Clear, 1/2" x 72yds. $6.00 per roll


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

My left chest pillows are 6X8. I put the left chest logo in the middle of the letter size transfer, don't trim and it lays over the pillow perfectly. Some people like to stick more left chests on a sheet but I like to just overhang the pillow. it's fast, easy to line up with collar and get streight and no lines. perfect every time. As far as the 11X17 and 13X20 paper, I use a variety of pillows or Vapor foam. Whichever fits the design best. the smaller the better so as to get it in and out of the shirt faster. The vapor foam is a pain to get into shirts so I put it on the bottom platon and cover and heat tape it in place with a teflon sheet.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

_cover and heat tape it in place with a teflon sheet.[/quote]_


_I meant to say... attach vapor foam to the bottom platon with a teflon sheet using the heat tape._


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Cjoe Design said:


> _Its called Teflon tape. _
> 
> Mark


Its not called teflon tape!!! do not buy Teflon tape its just heat transfer tape.

If you go to www.conde.com type heat tape and it will come up

its Heat Transfer Tape, Clear, 1/2" x 72yds. $6.00 per roll[/quote]


I got mine from Imprintables Warehouse. I thought it was called teflon tape but I was wrong. Receipt says its called Thermal tape. Its bluish color tho. 
THanks will check it out.
Mark


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## sjidohair (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks guys you have taught me something new,, and i love it,, 
If i can help with anything, just ask,,
thanks for taking the time to share, 
Sandy jo
MMM


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Don't cut your foam too close to the size of your transfer. The image needs to be inside the foam by at about 3/4" and the paper needs to hang over the foam about an inch. Then you're good.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

Susie said:


> Don't cut your foam too close to the size of your transfer. The image needs to be inside the foam by at about 3/4" and the paper needs to hang over the foam about an inch. Then you're good.


So it sounds like you gotta cut the foam for every job then.


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Well, after a while you have all kinds of foam pieces around - I just use what fits. I buy the foam in bulk - I always make sure I have a ton of it around.

I put the foam on my bottom platen - it just stays there 'cause it's kind of sticky. Then I put a teflon sheet on the foam so I can slide my apparel around on it to line it up on the foam. I put a teflon sheet inside the apparel if there's a chance of blow-through.


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

Susie is right, that is exactly what I do. In a short period of time you will have enough foam or pillows so you can just grab one that fits the job. Specially if you are not cutting down your transfers. I always use a barrier between my apparel and teflon is just the easiest to slide in and out of the shirt.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

What causes blow through or the major cause of it ? 
Color of ink ?
Pressure ? 
dewll time ?
Shirt color ?

Thanks
Mark


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Blow-through occurs on thinner, smoother fabrics especially in conjuction with heavier ink coverage. 
I notice on some Vapor tees that you can get blow-through on November White, but not with Terra Mesa or grey, for example. These different colours have slightly different "hands" even though they're supposed to be the same weight.
I get blow-through even with the light pressure I use on Nov. White shirts so I think it's more fabric-driven than by pressure. 

You can just slip an extra teflon sheet inside if it is a problem. Most of the time it's ok. A big shirt can be slung over a smaller size press so the bottom of the shirt is underneath the press. Do not stretch a smaller shirt over your platen though - it will remain stretched out after.


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

There are tons of good writeups on here for a good professional DyeSub process. Use the search and check them out. Be wary of advice that says, "hey, it worked for me". Learn to do it the right way the first time, and it will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration.

- Do not use tape for DyeSubbing fabrics. You will not find many experienced professional DyeSubbers using tape. You need the adhesive spray if you want a professional image.

- Do not use teflon pillows for DyeSubbing fabric. They lose their shape quickly and cause blurring from the vapor channels they create. Learn to use the vapor foam correctly. It's your friend.

- Blowthrough occurs on thinner fabrics. You have to test each fabric to be able to tell if the ink vapor will migrate through it to the back. I never have to worry about this, because I always put a teflon sheet inside the shirt. But if you don't put teflon inside your shirts, then you better test each one before printing, because you can ruin a lot of expensive shirts that way.

- DyeSub pressure should be as light as possible to get the job done. DyeSublimation on fabrics does not use pressure like other types of heat transfers. If the paper is touching the shirt, and the heat platen is touching the paper, then you have enough pressure to sublimate. If you use too much pressure, like most beginners are apt to do, you will permanently damage the shirts, especially the more delicate ones.


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## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

Susie said:


> I use repositional spray to help with the tape in this case, but the spray can be seen sometimes as little tiny dots, depending on the fabric, so I don't go overboard with it.


Susie, yes, the spray can leave the tiny dots, but that's because the nozzle is not clear and it goes onto the transfer in random little blobs rather than a mist. I've messed up a few shirts that way too. But if you are careful and try to keep your nozzle clear, and also have a lot of extra nozzles on hand when yours does clog, the spray works perfectly, and no tape is needed.

Granted the adhesive spray is nasty, so you don't want to spray it around your printer. I have a box that I put the transfer inside and then spray it in the box. That helps contains most of the overspray, but still keep it far away from your printer. And try not to breathe it!


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

That's right about the spray - probably the most toxic thing I use - I spray it outside.


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## doctordun (Sep 28, 2009)

Susie said:


> Well, after a while you have all kinds of foam pieces around - I just use what fits. I buy the foam in bulk - I always make sure I have a ton of it around.


Where do you get the foam in bulk? Is it special heat resistant foam?


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## Sports4Less (Jun 15, 2009)

I bought it from Conde, they sell it in a bulk box I believe.


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## doctordun (Sep 28, 2009)

Sports4Less said:


> I bought it from Conde, they sell it in a bulk box I believe.


I think that is the Vapor Foam Kit.
I wonder if the foam is that special? It looks pretty ordinary to me.


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## RavensFan (Mar 4, 2008)

The foam handles the heat and does not gas any color into your shirts. Other foams will leave a yellow haze in the back of the shirt.


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

I was going to mention earlier too, that I press upside down. The transfer goes down first with the fabric on top. This also helps with blow-through and ghosting. I like the results with this method.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Susie said:


> I was going to mention earlier too, that I press upside down. The transfer goes down first with the fabric on top. This also helps with blow-through and ghosting. I like the results with this method.


Do you increase time and/or temp to compensate for doing it reversed?


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## Cjoe Design (Jun 3, 2008)

Huh, I have never heard of anyone doing that method on tees.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Cjoe Design said:


> Huh, I have never heard of anyone doing that method on tees.


Never heard it done on tee's but have heard of it on cut and sew. Just curious of the effect of heat/time doing it this way.


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## freebird1963 (Jan 21, 2007)

How do you line it up ?


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

On-line Jerseys said:


> Do you increase time and/or temp to compensate for doing it reversed?


No. I didn't make any changes. I discovered this one day when I accidentally put the transfer down and just placed the fabric face down on top. The weight of the fabric helps prevent many problems. This was with a cut and sew, so no foam or tape, lining up or anything was needed. I don't even know why I did it that way but I was really pleased with the results and now do all my cut and sew that way. If you want to do it with ready-mades, I suppose you could put a smidgey of tape here and there to keep it in place. There was no lesser brilliance in results either and if fact there is no blow through either to top or bottom plates. 

But to keep my platen clean I keep a plain spare chunk of fabric and I press that for about 10-20 seconds after if I feel it is necessary. If there is any residual dye it will be taken up in that fabric. I keep my platens clean that way and there is no need for teflons and such. I have found that teflons make ghosting worse as they are slippy and move easily when the press is lifted. I have better results now without teflon.

That's just been my experience.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Susie said:


> No. I didn't make any changes. I discovered this one day when I accidentally put the transfer down and just placed the fabric face down on top. The weight of the fabric helps prevent many problems. This was with a cut and sew, so no foam or tape, lining up or anything was needed. I don't even know why I did it that way but I was really pleased with the results and now do all my cut and sew that way. If you want to do it with ready-mades, I suppose you could put a smidgey of tape here and there to keep it in place. There was no lesser brilliance in results either and if fact there is no blow through either to top or bottom plates.
> 
> But to keep my platen clean I keep a plain spare chunk of fabric and I press that for about 10-20 seconds after if I feel it is necessary. If there is any residual dye it will be taken up in that fabric. I keep my platens clean that way and there is no need for teflons and such. I have found that teflons make ghosting worse as they are slippy and move easily when the press is lifted. I have better results now without teflon.
> 
> That's just been my experience.


 
I have heard of several people doing it this way. With your method are you stacking fabric and precutting blanks from a template then pressing reversed or are you pressing on squares and cutting out after the press?


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi Mark,
I do it both ways, depending on the job. For all-over prints I will draft the pattern and do the graphics at the same time in Illustrator and press the piece work on fabric sections and cut it out after. For partial coverage I press on the ready-cut piece work. But doing the pattern and graphic work together in Illustrator can be challenging sometimes - but I enjoy this part. I try to conserve fabric and ink where possible to save money and resources and manage waste better.

Not to confuse people though, cut and sew is very different from prepping ready-made apparel. It is much more difficult (in my mind) to deal with ready-made items. Cut and sew doesn't take as much prep. Even in a large press I use foam with ready-mades because the pressing of sleeves will leave such a sharp crease, which I don't like.


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Susie said:


> Hi Mark,
> I do it both ways, depending on the job. For all-over prints I will draft the pattern and do the graphics at the same time in Illustrator and press the piece work on fabric sections and cut it out after. For partial coverage I press on the ready-cut piece work. But doing the pattern and graphic work together in Illustrator can be challenging sometimes - but I enjoy this part. I try to conserve fabric and ink where possible to save money and resources and manage waste better.
> 
> Not to confuse people though, cut and sew is very different from prepping ready-made apparel. It is much more difficult (in my mind) to deal with ready-made items. Cut and sew doesn't take as much prep. Even in a large press I use foam with ready-mades because the pressing of sleeves will leave such a sharp crease, which I don't like.


 
Susie,

Thanks - you are doing like I have heard others do it. I am still not clear what you see as the advantages on the full coverage doing reversed versus straight up. Can you clarify? We have never used teflon as I am with you - causes more issues then it solves. We have always used the white nomax pad and every week take it to a car wash and spray it clean. I am so with you on the premade issue which is why we can do total custom cut and sews (full coverage) for what others are doing pre made full coverage shirts for. The amount of prep time on premades makes the whole thing very time consuming and costly.


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

On-line Jerseys said:


> Susie,
> 
> Thanks - you are doing like I have heard others do it. I am still not clear what you see as the advantages on the full coverage doing reversed versus straight up. Can you clarify? We have never used teflon as I am with you - causes more issues then it solves. We have always used the white nomax pad and every week take it to a car wash and spray it clean. I am so with you on the premade issue which is why we can do total custom cut and sews (full coverage) for what others are doing pre made full coverage shirts for. The amount of prep time on premades makes the whole thing very time consuming and costly.


Well, on thick fabric it doesn't matter but on thin fabric you do get blow through which is much less when you do everything upside down. I just like having the weight of the fabric on top. Perhaps the paper is curling near the end of the roll which the fabric helps to hold down. And ghosting is virtually eliminated because it is much harder for the fabric to get sucked up than the paper when the press opens. Pressing has never been so nice as when you don't use anything, ironically enough! I like cleaning the platens with a piece of fabric. My platens stay clean and there is no additional cleaning of anything required - at least up til now 

Do you find you get brigher images without teflon? I think they kind of block the heat up to a point (not letting all the heat get to the garment). I don't know, that's just my experience lately. I can almost definitely say they facilitate ghosting!

Yes, you are absolutely right about ready-mades. We seem to get more calls for custom apparel rather than ready-made things, but we do have a base of customers that use fairly simple designs on Vapor. It seems like some customers just like to look at a t-shirt and say, yep, that's good - give me 50 of those, or whatever. If you ask some people how they want their shirts cut they almost go into a meltdown. Cut and sew isn't for all customers and it's easier for me if we don't have a lot of time, or they want safety orange or something and the ready-made tee colour saves me ink. 

There's just no end to the learning is there? In this business you can learn something new almost every day!


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## Riderz Ready (Sep 18, 2008)

Susie said:


> Well, on thick fabric it doesn't matter but on thin fabric you do get blow through which is much less when you do everything upside down. I just like having the weight of the fabric on top. Perhaps the paper is curling near the end of the roll which the fabric helps to hold down. And ghosting is virtually eliminated because it is much harder for the fabric to get sucked up than the paper when the press opens. Pressing has never been so nice as when you don't use anything, ironically enough! I like cleaning the platens with a piece of fabric. My platens stay clean and there is no additional cleaning of anything required - at least up til now
> 
> Do you find you get brigher images without teflon? I think they kind of block the heat up to a point (not letting all the heat get to the garment). I don't know, that's just my experience lately. I can almost definitely say they facilitate ghosting!
> 
> ...


We have never used teflon since we went to wide format so not sure about colors with or without. So you use nothing on the platens at all? I may have to try this as we always used the white nomax pad. Could save me a trip to the car wash late night.


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## Susie (Oct 19, 2007)

No, seems like you don't need anything. I've never washed the base pad. It doesn't retain any residual dye once I press that scrap fabric I mentioned earlier. Just as the residual dye would pass on to the next garment, it will pass on to that scrap and thereby removing anything left. I did check my platen, it's shiny and clean, just like new (after several months of use). I should mention, my scrap is a big piece of fabric, way bigger than the press, so it cleans everything and you don't get a build up of dye in one area that can re-sublimate. Once the scrap is too dyed, you can recycle it and use a new scrap. I haven't reached that point yet -seems like you could go on a long time in this manner.

Although, it seems a bit of pain to clean the press with a scrap of fabric, it isn't - I just pop it in there and walk off and do something else for a minute. It isn't any sort of effort really. I usually set up my piece work for cutting or sewing or whatever at that point. I think this would work with smaller presses as well, although my small press platen is a dark matte metal that seems to take ink (blow-through) more readily than the shiny (aluminum?) maxi press. A person would have to try this method and see if it works. I think it should.


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## mn shutterbug (Mar 19, 2009)

RavensFan said:


> The foam handles the heat and does not gas any color into your shirts. Other foams will leave a yellow haze in the back of the shirt.


I found a piece of foam in my basement and used that on my first couple shirt experiments. I ended up with a yellow haze the size of the platen, on each shirt. The foam I used was a little larger than the platen. I thought I was over heating the shirts. If what you are saying is right, I'd better get the right foam.


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