# where to find a 1000 watt halogen light



## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

Ive been looking for a 1000 watt halogen light and i cant seem to find one.. I keep getting links that show 2 500 watt lights... does any one now how much a 1000 watt would cost around and if i did a setup such as this one Exposure Unit

with 2 500 watts.. would it work well and be equivalent to a 1000 watt? Or would it be a bad idea because it will have 2 light point surfaces?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

Go look on ebay for 1000 watt metal halide grow lites and systems.


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

The idea of 1000w is nice (I have a 1kw M-H light), but the idea of 2 light sources defeats the purpose. You want to cast only ONE shadow on the screen, not 2 or more if you want to be able to do really good halftone screens.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I dont think two lights or one is going to cast any shadow on the screen. A shadow is caused by something between the light source and the glass. What would be there be to cast a shadow?


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

What casts a shadow is a little thing called THE POSITIVE!. It is the SHADOW OF THE POSITIVE that keeps UV light from reaching the emulsion and enables it to be washed out (developed) to create the stencil.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

whats a ballast? And do you only need one for metal halide lights? I really dont know much about lights... lol


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

I'm not a lighting engineer or even an electrician, but as far as I know, some sort of ballast appears to be necessary for many types of lights. Florescent and Metal-Halide and others. I don't know exactly what it is that it does, but without it, the light(s) will not work.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

icic they seem to look quite pricey.. do halogen lights need these ? Im not worried about how long the screen will take to expose.. just trying to keep the price down and i heard u can get good quality from a halogen light.. but please give me the best advice on what i should do.. If metal halides r better all in general.. better exposure time and quality i may go with that.. if its just exposure time i will go the cheaper way..


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

ftembroidery said:


> What casts a shadow is a little thing called THE POSITIVE!. It is the SHADOW OF THE POSITIVE that keeps UV light from reaching the emulsion and enables it to be washed out (developed) to create the stencil.


Casting a shadow isnt what keeps a screen from exposing. Blocking light is and thats why a tight bond between the positive, screen emulsion and glass are important. I understand what you are saying but with a tight contact I dont see a difference. Shadow is the wrong term I think. I could very well be way wrong but table top tube systems have several light sources. I am learning that point of light is a better idea.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

the link of using 2 halogen lights i showed.. how long would you think this would take to expose a screen?
Im just starting off and im only going to be doing one color designs for right now.. so if i can build a decent exposure unit for cheap.. that would be great.. I get free wood as well and already have 2 500 watt halogen lights.. So should this be fine to use ?


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I understand the concept but the example pics and light source angles arent defined. If two side by side lights were used within some sort of reflector set up wouldnt that work? Why do they sell multi bulb exposure systems? I am just playing devils advocate as there are plenty of sources for 1000 watt metal halid light systems which the $4000 exposure units utilize. Within those reflecting systems light rays are reflected in several angles. The distance from the center of the the single point light source to the screen is less than the distance from the center to the outside edges. Not being an ***...just trying to understand the variables to build an excellent unit.


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

The multi-tube exposure systems (florescent) are available in a variety of grades or levels. All the way from a unit that may have 4 tubes and a lift-off (not hinged) weighted lid to a lid with pull-down type latches (lunch box or Jeep hood latches) to a vacuum lid and 6 or 8 or more tubes. While they will give a "decent" screen for spot colors, they are not the best for half-tone prints because each tube causes its own shadow to be cast. (The shadow is what blocks the UV light). Some commercial exposure units may use multiple halogen lights, but I would hope that they had light engineers aim and focus the multiple lights (you'd be supprised at the amount of engineering that goes into making reflectors....just look closely at the lens & reflector of an automobile) to minimize the creation of multiple shadows. Obviously, a SINGLE light source can only cast one shadow. 

Fred's illustration above is an excellent example of multiple shadows vs. single shadow. Remember....the ink or toner on the film or vellum has "thickness", even though it is almost microscopic. Put a 2x4 piece of lumber up against the wall (I don't care whether you put it wide side or narrow side against the wall). Put your nose against the 2x4 and back straight away (perpendicular to the wall) 2 or 3 paces. Hold a flashlight in each hand at arms length outward from your body. Shine one light at the 2x4 and observe the shadow. Then shine the other light and observe the shadow. Then shine both lights and observe the shadows. The 2x4 represents the ink/toner on the film/vellum, and the wall represents the screen. If you are trying to print fine lines, high detail, halftones, etc., I'm sure you'd rather use an exposure system that causes one, distinct shadow to be cast, than one that caused several shadows which result in an indistinct edge on the stencil.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

Thank you guys so much this thread helped me out a ton!! I had no clue what a shadow meant until now and the pictures was a plus... this forum is awesome i have learned so much from you guys.. Another question.. are 1000 watt halogen lights a lot cheaper then buying a metal halide with its ballast? I reallly am having a hard time finding 1000 watt halogen light online.. any suggestions of some sites?


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## ftembroidery (Nov 25, 2006)

Halogen lights ARE less expensive than Metal-Halide. You must understand this point though.....while there are commercially made "professional" exposure units built and sold that use halogen lights, a halogen light is one of the poorest sources of UV light. I say that because UV light is what exposes the screen. The best is the sun, but if it's a cloudy or hazy day or it's night time, the UV light is not consistent and therefore exposure time would vary widely. Then there's Arc lights (mostly used now in the big searchlights at entertainment galas), then Metal-Halide.

In fact, halogen (while it will work), puts off more energy in the form of HEAT than it does in light. That's why they use halogen lights as the heat source in modern stoves. Also, if you are going to use halogen, remove the glass shield from in front of the bulb as it filters out UV light.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

I think I am going to go the cheap way.. Would this be able to hook up in my 500 watt construction light?

FCM 1000w halogen bulb - BulbAmerica.com


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## ironhead (Dec 28, 2005)

I built that same exact exposure unit that you showed in your orginal thread. That's the same place I got the idea from. I've been using it for over a year now.
My exposure unit though, I decided to add solid sides to it with two round holes big enough to blow a fan from one side to the other. This was to make sure the glass stayed cool.

I use 2, 500 watters just like the pic and it works wonderful. I've never printed halftones so I can't comment on that.
I will say that from time to time one bulb will blow out before the other and I'll only use one of the 500 watters until I get a new bulb. The result, it takes me almost twice the time to expose.

With both bulbs and using qtx, I can expose a screen in 8-10 minutes. 
Using one bulb and same emulsion nearly 20 minutes.

Hope this helps.

This is the best exposure unit that I never had to buy.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

Alright thank you!! One more question.. If i want to do a thousand watt halogen light.. where do i find a lamp for the bulb?


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## tink (Apr 8, 2008)

Here is your source for a light Quartz 1500 Watt Flood Light


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## macmiller (Jul 23, 2007)

check ebay for metal halide. i just searched and found several bulbs at good prices, plan to spend $75-$100 on a ballast. 

spend the money now and you won't wish you did later. i can burn screens between a minute or two depending on mesh count and color with qx-1 which is half the price of qtx. you'll save the money right there in the long run. with qtx i could burn them at about 30 seconds. 

there's been a bunch of threads about home-built MH units in the past few months. find RickB's, it's really nice.


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## tonz-sk8 (Feb 9, 2008)

ya i think I may go metal halide.. I just made a stand with a 500watt halogen light
But i could easily add onto it and make it work for a metal halide.. right now time and getting halfrtone prints wont bother me.. Still a big newb.. But RICKB has a really nice unit.. Right now im looking into making a colored press.. I was searching on the forum some looke quite easy to make.. i feel registration may be pretty tricky.. I hope I can figure it out because right now i cant afford that book screen pringinting for fun and profit.. but making it soon in woodshop..will save me so much money with wood and equipment..


Im so glad i have this class in highscool


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## Davidsonrecon (Sep 26, 2009)

If you are still looking for a 1000W halogen, I have 5 of them. They are used, but work OK. 120V. Let me know. 

David


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## kylefromdirtnapp (Apr 27, 2012)

Not having much luck getting replies on bumped threads, but here goes:

I have a homemade exposure unit that uses a 500 watt halogen work light about 11" from the glass (any further and exp. times go through the roof). Takes me 15 minutes to expose a 110, 18 min. for a yellow 180. I bought myself a 1000 watt bulb, and it dropped epx. times to 3 and 4 minutes! It was really nice, but after about a month or 2, my bulb looked like this. Is it because I'm using the 500 watt ballast in the work light? Could it have been a bad bulb? It was old, but unused when I got it.


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