# Inkjet heat transfers - Are you post-pressing or re-pressing after? Yes or No?



## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

INKJET HEAT TRANSFER USERS (JPSS, Ironall, Everlast, etc). 

Are you re-pressing your shirts after you press and peel the release paper off the back? Yes or no, thanks!! 

As of now, after I press a transfer:
-I peel the backer paper off,
-Give the shirt a gentle stretch,
-Put my teflon sheet over the image area,
-RE-press the image again for about 5 seconds.

Just wondering how many others are or aren't doing this same thing. I'm thinking of giving it up due to occasional ghosting from the teflon sheet... but I believe it helps the process... so I thought, poll time! 

Thanks for participating in this poll. I appreciate it.


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## marcelolopez (Jul 16, 2007)

The poll would need another choice : *Sometimes*.
I just printed my two first t-shirts with JPSS, and didn't re-press it, because I forgot .
Anyways the results were very satisfactory. 
I used to re-press with Image Clip, but it was sometime ago, before started to focus on screen printing.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I didn't think of that one, Marcelo, sorry... but congrats on your JPSS shirts, that's awesome, and glad they came out nice. Have a great night. Kelly


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

I pre heat the shirt,press the design and then press with a flex pad( this is a flexible silicone sheet that is textured and it helps press the design into the garment). I think this make the design look more like screen print. .... JB


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I just recently tried JPSS transfers and inkjet printing. I am baffeled how you actualy try and retail the results. I find it a novelty to try and figure out how a $1.oo polymer paper comes close to pro results. There is no way I could offer this result with a straight face as something of quality. I am blown away at how actually cheapo it really is. Stretch...are you kidding me...the product cracks unless on a tote bag. I'm sorry but unless it is sublimation, digital transfers are just not going to do it for me at this point

Sorry about the rant but I have waited for a digital paper to try that most folks agree was the best. I bought a pack and printed some transfers and did the pressing. The images look fine and they press quite simply with zero problems. 

If I stretsh the tee the image cracks. My buddy bought a total printer setup and JPSS and his images crack when stretched.


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## EnchantedMirror (May 24, 2008)

COEDS said:


> I pre heat the shirt,press the design and then press with a flex pad( this is a flexible silicone sheet that is textured and it helps press the design into the garment). I think this make the design look more like screen print. .... JB



This sounds cool, where would I get this flex pad?


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## EnchantedMirror (May 24, 2008)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I just recently tried JPSS transfers and inkjet printing. I am baffeled how you actualy try and retail the results. I find it a novelty to try and figure out how a $1.oo polymer paper comes close to pro results. There is no way I could offer this result with a straight face as something worth the time and or effort to produce. I am blown away at how actually novice it really is. Stretch...are you kidding me...this product is sub par for any pro reproduction of a graphic unless on a tote bag. I'm sorry but unless it is sublimation, digital transfers are just sub par in the scale of graphic reproduction. Do you folks actually sell this crap? Just my opinion but are you kidding me?


David,
Your "Know Thyself" tee design is amazing, I am going to have to get one of those soon!

Barbara


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## wormil (Jan 7, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> -RE-press the image again for about 5 seconds.


What is the purpose of repressing?


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

I will repress them sometimes after folding them. Give them a nice look.


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

EnchantedMirror said:


> This sounds cool, where would I get this flex pad?


I bought mine at Ace Transfer Company, Inc. for than than 20 dollars and I have one for each press. I will never not use them. I mainly to vinyl and plastisol. I re press to assure a tight adhesion. ... I hope this helps .... JB


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## COEDS (Oct 4, 2006)

MotoskinGraphix said:


> I just recently tried JPSS transfers and inkjet printing. I am baffeled how you actualy try and retail the results. I find it a novelty to try and figure out how a $1.oo polymer paper comes close to pro results. There is no way I could offer this result with a straight face as something of quality. I am blown away at how actually cheapo it really is. Stretch...are you kidding me...the product cracks unless on a tote bag. I'm sorry but unless it is sublimation, digital transfers are just not going to do it for me at this point
> 
> Sorry about the rant but I have waited for a digital paper to try that most folks agree was the best. I bought a pack and printed some transfers and did the pressing. The images look fine and they press quite simply with zero problems.
> 
> If I stretsh the tee the image cracks. My buddy bought a total printer setup and JPSS and his images crack when stretched.


I have not had good luck with inkjet printing, but there is a niche market for this type of printing. I know people who do a lot of these daily with happy customers. .... JB


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thank you everyone that is voting. I prefer to keep this thread about "post-pressing/re-pressing". 

There are plenty of JPSS threads on the forum that discuss quality as well as likes/dislikes of the product. This thread deals with ALL of the transfer papers that folks are using... not just one brand. 

I am very interested in folks habits on the re-press, and would like to be able to keep the focus in this thread on that topic.

Thank you, again, for the voting. I appreciate it.


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## MotoskinGraphix (Apr 28, 2006)

I know there are folks who do it and sell it, a bunch of folks. The prints come out fine, go through the wash fine but they do color sep. when you stretch them. I dont know if the term crack is correct because the polymer does stretch but the ink doesnt. I dont see how you could use the paper on any stretchable substrate.

I guess there is a market for everything but having done heatpress vinyl, custom plastisol transfer, stock P transfers and sampled DTG and Dye-Sub this is a big step backwards.

I must be doing something wrong or this is as good as it gets with inkjet transfers. Funny but I was just sampling $200 dye-sub race team gear and am worried about a $1.00 polymer paper image on a buck fifty tee.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

wormil said:


> What is the purpose of repressing?


Honestly, Rick, some of us who do this have asked each other why we do... and the answer was always more like "for some reason I feel like it helps the product." But no one I've talked to was able to say it def does this or that to improve XYZ. _But we have theories... lol._

For me, my process starts with a gentle stretch, and Pre-press to open the weave and remove the moisture. _The weave is tight from the start, so opening helps reduce that cracked appearance when stretched that David is referring to. I've seen that same thing, but on some brand of shirts, it happens and on other brands, not. That means to me, the shirt also makes a difference in the results regarding that issue. _

Then I press the image. I peel as hot as possible, and when it's still hot, I give the image a gentle stretch to re-open the weave and the polymer. (Sometimes when I peel the JPSS the shirt warps a little out of shape, and this brings the image area back into place for me, as well.)

Then I re-press for 5 secs or so. To me, I think it helps set the product deeper into the weave, sets up the polymer with the weave a little open to reduce the cracked appearance when the shirt is stretched, and the teflon gives the finished image a little nicer look.

But, sometimes, I get ghosting off of my teflon onto the next shirt. It's really annoying. So while I think there are benefits to the re-press, I'm wondering if other folks are just skipping it and not having any issues whatsoever.

I can just give it up for now and see how it goes, but then I already became very curious into the pressing habits of my fellow inkjet heat pressers.

And these are just my opinions, which I like to change daily.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

A funny side to this: When I went to the Great Garment Graphics seminar, Mel stated that you need to let the transfers sit for a while (can't remember how long) before you press them. He said that it allowed the ink to set into the polymer. I had read on here, where some people allowed their transfers to sit under the press to dry (I think he said that was a big no no). So I did a test, where I took one image and cut it into 3 and pressed one right away, one after sitting under the press and one after "curing" (as they called it). My results showed no real difference, EXCEPT, the first transfer held it's color better (it got pressed two more times) and the second one was a little better (pressed one more time), and the third was worse. I never did a re test, but I wondered if the repressing, or maybe longer pressing time, might help the color hold better. And this as with Ironall.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

I alway press the whole shirt anyway for the customer.. It makes it look professional.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

badalou said:


> I alway press the whole shirt anyway for the customer.. It makes it look professional.


 
Me, too, Lou, I agree 100%. Looks silly with a pressed rectangle on the front/back and little lines everywhere else, hehe...


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

prometheus said:


> A funny side to this: When I went to the Great Garment Graphics seminar, Mel stated that you need to let the transfers sit for a while (can't remember how long) before you press them. He said that it allowed the ink to set into the polymer. I had read on here, where some people allowed their transfers to sit under the press to dry (I think he said that was a big no no). So I did a test, where I took one image and cut it into 3 and pressed one right away, one after sitting under the press and one after "curing" (as they called it). My results showed no real difference, EXCEPT, the first transfer held it's color better (it got pressed two more times) and the second one was a little better (pressed one more time), and the third was worse. I never did a re test, but I wondered if the repressing, or maybe longer pressing time, might help the color hold better. And this as with Ironall.


 
Thanks for sharing this info, Prommy. It's thoughts like these the other "re-pressers" and myself share. Your observations sound like another confirmation of the finding that can lead one to believe there is a benefit to the re-press... 

I've re-pressed JPSS and Ironall Lt. I found using Ironall Lt with a Jerzees HW 50/50 (29b) shirt, I did not experience any fading. Other brands didn't hold up as well, even with the re-press. Do you remember what shirt you were using when you re-pressed the Ironall Lt? Thanks.


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## prometheus (Oct 19, 2006)

Not off hand. But I can say it was either a Hanes, FOTL or Gildan.


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## LEO (Oct 10, 2006)

I use JPSS and always repress for 5 secs also.
To prevent the ghosting...how can I describe this nicely... I bring the teflon sheet up between my body and shirt sleeve..rotating it at least twice to get all areas...essentially wiping it under sleeve several times and then press the next shirt.
Alternatively... set the sheet on work table and wipe off with a soft cloth before using on next shirt.

LEO


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

LEO said:


> I use JPSS and always repress for 5 secs also.
> To prevent the ghosting...how can I describe this nicely... I bring the teflon sheet up between my body and shirt sleeve..rotating it at least twice to get all areas...essentially wiping it under sleeve several times and then press the next shirt.
> Alternatively... set the sheet on work table and wipe off with a soft cloth before using on next shirt.
> 
> LEO


LOL, well if it was a snake it would have bit me!!! What a novel idea... clean the sheet between presses. Dang. Well that just shows where my "interests" in cleaning lie. lol.

Anyway, not sure my arms are long enough to clean it on the shirt I'm wearing, but certainly wiping it with a cloth and the 409 would do the trick. 

~ugh~ adding another step and yet a few more seconds... but it saves a shirt.

So far, are we agreeing - for the most part - that re-pressing is worth it? Thx.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

COEDS said:


> I pre heat the shirt,press the design and then press with a flex pad( this is a flexible silicone sheet that is textured and it helps press the design into the garment). I think this make the design look more like screen print. .... JB


 
Hey, JB, I was reading this thread over again, and had a q for you: did you vote in it? I hope so, the poll is open to anyone repressing, no matter what transfer paper you use, or product you use to cover it, so I hope you realized you were very welcome to vote even if you use a flex pad.


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## RedLine7000 (May 3, 2008)

I've never post-pressed, and never ever ever never...never pre-heat. I had a run of 100 sweats a couple years ago and I started off by preheating the garments real good to get the best print. Well after about 10 ruined sweats with the paper sticking, ripping and generally putting down a crappy print, I tried a print without pre-heating (like I usually did on tee's) and got a perfect print. When I spoke to my transfer maker about it, she said "Oh no, we never pre-heat either" Sorry if this is a little off post, but it may help someone having difficulties. By the way, I press in the basement and though it's not real humid or musty, the garments do have a moisture content to them. I like that. Hell, I do two sided shirts usually, and if I had to pre-heat post-heat post-press and stretch...I'd never get done! -Neil


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## RedLine7000 (May 3, 2008)

That would be a No I guess.....


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## spankthafunk (Apr 9, 2007)

RedLine7000 said:


> That would be a No I guess.....


lol. . . . .


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## mrdavid (Sep 14, 2007)

I do repress and I dont use teflon sheet and only use Parchment paper when repressing.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

I am officially changing my original vote to I re-press with parchment paper over top. 

Here is the reason why:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t69756.html


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

RedLine7000 said:


> I tried a print without pre-heating (like I usually did on tee's) and got a perfect print. When I spoke to my transfer maker about it, she said "Oh no, we never pre-heat either" Sorry if this is a little off post, but it may help someone having difficulties.


 
Hi Neil, you are not the only one, Greyhorsewoman actually mists her shirts prior to press to get the perfect print.

I haven't tried it, what I've done works for me, so I'm afraid to change. 

I wanted to ask one question tho, because it's not in the post... why do you think the pre-press hurt the process and leaving the moisture in helps it? Did the woman say at all either, why they never do that? Thanks so much for any light on that. Much appreciated.


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

RedLine7000 said:


> I've never post-pressed, and never ever ever never...never pre-heat. I had a run of 100 sweats a couple years ago and I started off by preheating the garments real good to get the best print. Well after about 10 ruined sweats with the paper sticking, ripping and generally putting down a crappy print, I tried a print without pre-heating (like I usually did on tee's) and got a perfect print. When I spoke to my transfer maker about it, she said "Oh no, we never pre-heat either" Sorry if this is a little off post, but it may help someone having difficulties. By the way, I press in the basement and though it's not real humid or musty, the garments do have a moisture content to them. I like that. Hell, I do two sided shirts usually, and if I had to pre-heat post-heat post-press and stretch...I'd never get done! -Neil





> When I spoke to my transfer maker about it


When I saw this I think you are talking about either plastisol transfers or Stock transfers not inkjet. As you are having someone make your transfers and not printing them yourself. Am I correct? If so that is a differnt issue. But for inkjet you should pre-press.


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## RedLine7000 (May 3, 2008)

Hi Kelly, Lou,

Actually, the transfers I was using on the sweats I was having problems with were done on a laser printer, I think. This was before I started making them myself. So they were not inkjet, but not plastisol either. However, since I've begun to print my own transfers using jpss and heat transfer ink, I still don't pre-heat and get excellent results. Kelly, I'm the opposite of you - I'm afraid to pre-heat now-!!! I sometimes have hot splits made for me from First Edition, which are plastisol, and I still don't pre-heat...no problem.

I think it may be possible that when the water content in the garment turnes to steam and is trapped under the platen, it helps transfer the ink better. Maybe, I don't know. Not sure. I actually thought about misting the shirts too, but couldn't find something with a fine enough spray, so I sort of forgot about it.


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks so much, Neil. I find doing heat transfers sort of somehow also turns you into a "bit" of a "scientist"!


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## badalou (Mar 19, 2006)

RedLine7000 said:


> Hi Kelly, Lou,
> 
> Actually, the transfers I was using on the sweats I was having problems with were done on a laser printer, I think. This was before I started making them myself. So they were not inkjet, but not plastisol either. However, since I've begun to print my own transfers using jpss and heat transfer ink, I still don't pre-heat and get excellent results. Kelly, I'm the opposite of you - I'm afraid to pre-heat now-!!! I sometimes have hot splits made for me from First Edition, which are plastisol, and I still don't pre-heat...no problem.
> 
> I think it may be possible that when the water content in the garment turnes to steam and is trapped under the platen, it helps transfer the ink better. Maybe, I don't know. Not sure. I actually thought about misting the shirts too, but couldn't find something with a fine enough spray, so I sort of forgot about it.


Being in this business for the number of years I have and have had many experiences with different types of transfers I found the only true answer is.. If it works for you then do it. If you have a problem then try it a different way. There is no one way to do most things only the right way and that is the way you get the best results. me I am a pre-presser.. "Works For me" Lou


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

COEDS said:


> I pre heat the shirt,press the design and then press with a flex pad( this is a flexible silicone sheet that is textured and it helps press the design into the garment). I think this make the design look more like screen print. .... JB


 miss u Jerry .....

Since I can not ask Our Beloved Jerry about the flex pads.....

Does anyone else know where to buy these???
(and what are they???)


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## Girlzndollz (Oct 3, 2007)

ashamutt said:


> miss u Jerry .....
> 
> Since I can not ask Our Beloved Jerry about the flex pads.....
> 
> ...


 
He posted it one time... hang on... let me take a shot at it. Aww, here it is, Mrs. B:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t25671.html#post151610


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## ashamutt (Feb 22, 2008)

Girlzndollz said:


> He posted it one time... hang on... let me take a shot at it. Aww, here it is, Mrs. B:
> http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t25671.html#post151610


thanks kelly!!
you MHM you!!!!!!!!!

Ya know, I miss him all over again everytime I see one of his posts......


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## vctradingcubao (Nov 15, 2006)

We are using laser transfers (am I qualified for the poll?) and yes, we re-press (sometimes). I would like to do it more often and on a regular basis but my people sometime forgets the process. I also think pre-pressing, stretching and the re-pressing also helps. I've seen that re-pressing actually helps "fix" the transfer better on the shirt, and the this (i think) should reduce the fading in transferred shirt. The only drawback in re-pressing is that sometimes, we get yellowing on the white tees. Maybe that's why my people "intentionally forget" to do it. A pelon fabric, or fleece or even JB's silicon pad (we have 2) should prevent this yellowing.
Thanks Kelly for posting this, it reminded me and I'll have a meeting today with me people to sort of make this a "standard practice".


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## greyhorsewoman (Jul 19, 2007)

Yes, I still mist my shirts, prepress, then place the transfer, mist and press. It was actually sweatshirts that got us doing it initially, because we weren't satisfied with the final result. At that point we did mainly laser transfers. When we went to inkjet, we felt the peel was rough, so we experimented with the misting on the shirts as well. IMHO the peel was cleaner and the transfers looked brighter. 

I just use a regular misting bottle, sort of spray up or straight so lands on the transfer (otherwise you can move it from the force of the spray). 

Only use teflon sheets for heavy canvas like totes, which I press on 'double time' from my shirts and it helps prevent burning. Or when doing doublesided and I can't get the piece over the platen. 

Been doing it for over five years and counting! Like Badalou said ... whatever works best for you!


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## RedLine7000 (May 3, 2008)

Hi Grey,

So you are actually wetting the back of the transfer? Interesting. You must be getting a lot of vapor mist in the area where you press... Do you have ventilation? Is the shirt dry after the first pre-press, before you place the transfer? I may have to try that. Thanks! Neil


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## greyhorsewoman (Jul 19, 2007)

I work a lot of dog show/events ... pressing on demand ... indoors or outdoors. 

When we are home, I have the press in my back room (though when we are busy and going from one show to another, it sometimes never makes it past the dining room), so I can process the orders from our website.


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## dlparham13 (Feb 2, 2014)

All this can be time consuming when you have a large order. Am I correct?


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