# Any Solution for Chromablast Border?



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Hi All,

I am so frustrated. I set up my 4800 Epson Hyprid system and I printed my first image, my logo. I placed it on a shirt, it looked great except for a box around the image and name. I tried pressing the shirt for less time, same thing. Besides washing the shirt several times, any other recommendations? I just don't think having a border on every shirt is acceptable. I can even see it on white shirts.

HELP!!!!


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

Sorry, but there is no solution to it. That's what Chromablast does. There have been several threads in here where I have warned people that were considering getting the Chromablast system. The people promoting it are very deceptive, trying to pass it off as equivalent to DyeSub, but it's nothing like DyeSub. It's really just a beefed up version of a InkJet heat transfer, at about 3 times the price.

I noticed you posted this question in the DyeSub forum. Did your seller tell you that it was "DyeSub for cotton"? I've seen many people calling it that, which is a lie. I feel bad for people like you that buy into the lies, and then get home and the reality of the dreaded box shows up.

The only way to get rid of the box is to trim the white off of every image you press.


----------



## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

That is odd. I went to ISS trade show in Schaumburg, IL and got a sample printed with Chromablast System from Johnson Plastics. It did not have border where there should have been. It even look like it had white ink in white part of the design. I did have not seen when the shirt was printed. I just took their for word it. The shirt has been washed 3 times already and still looks new and still no sign of border. It had very soft hand from day one. So, after all said and done I am confused . I was wondering if Johnson Plastics preprinted a bunch of sample shirt, took it to the show and pass it on as printed with Chromablast when the shirts were not?


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Yes, the person I spoke to from Sawgrass said it was equivalent to dyeSub and even a better system since we can print on any colored shirts. My husband was convinced that it would be the best route to go and we did. Compared to tranfers I purchased from proworld and springhill, this is a lot better even with the box but still has to be better then this for me to sell. So, my question is? If this was you in my situation what would you do? I could do both sub and chromablast I guess depending on the project if I had both types of shirts at home 50/50 and cotton. If the project printed was more of a square shape, chromablast would probably be fine. 

Also, does anyone know of a software or company that does shirt design customizing on the web so customers can go to your website and customize their on shirt?

Thanks!


----------



## debz1959 (Jul 29, 2007)

nabs said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am so frustrated. I set up my 4800 Epson Hyprid system and I printed my first image, my logo. I placed it on a shirt, it looked great except for a box around the image and name. I tried pressing the shirt for less time, same thing. Besides washing the shirt several times, any other recommendations? I just don't think having a border on every shirt is acceptable. I can even see it on white shirts.
> 
> HELP!!!!


 
Several things I can recommend...

1. Since you have a 4800, print your transfer in the middle of a larger sheet of transfer paper, that way the edges are not under the press. The larger paper costs a bit more, but you will have no edge marks...

2. Use less pressure and longer pressing time.

3. Use a teflon pillow...Placed inside or under the image area will help fabric "meet" the heat platen and mimimize the hard edge.


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Thanks for the suggestion. I might try that. I was also considering purchasing the Craft Robo or the smallest from Roland (forgot the name). Would that work as well if I was able to cut around the image?

Nabs


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Nabs,

Anytime you do transfers to cotton, you are really just glueing ink to the top of the shirt. The transfer paper has a polymer or adhesive on it. So, it is going to have that border on it. You can do what is called "print-cut" on only some types of transfer paper. The transfer paper must be weedable so the blade can cut the top layer and the roll grippers can move the backing layer. To determine this, take a small piece of ChromaBlast paper and slowly tear the paper. If you are able to remove the polymer (i.e. top layer) from the backing layer it is weedable. From what I was told, ChromaBlast paper is not. But, do the test for yourself. You are also going to need a cutter with an optical registration eye (i.e. not the RoboCraft - can go with the larger Graphtec cutter or the Roland GX-24).

Can I ask what color of the shirt your ChromaBlast print was on? The reason why I am asking is that most of the ChromaBlast transfers I have seen at the shows are done on white shirts. The border on any transfer paper is much more noticable on color shirts.

If you are running the Sawgrass hybrid system, then these are your only two ink choices to go with. You might want to see if you can use a different type of transfer paper that is weedable with your ChromaBlast ink. Not guarantee that it is going to work since the last change in ChromaBlast paper required a different profile. 

If you go with one of the 3rd Party hybrid RIPs, you will have more choices in regards to ink choices and which transfer papers to use. Did you buy directly from Sawgrass or from one of its distributors? Companies like Conde, The Paper Ranch, TR Distributors and others can tell you more about the 3rd Party hybrid RIPs.

Hope this helps.


----------



## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

Mark is right on. You need the Roland GX24 if you want to do cutting around an image...because one..it can and the other can't and two it is a quality product. Chromablast, like Duracotton, should be used on white/ash shirt only. With color garments you will see the border from the polymer. I have used both and you will get the border.

If using with white, lighten the pressure and dwell time and it may lessen the border


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Interesting Thing I Was Told About ChromaBlast:

I was told from a distributor of ChromaBlast that you need a lot of pressure when using ChromaBlast to the point that you should really have a swing away press. 

Swing away presses have more direct, over center pressure than most of the clamshell presses. So, I would play with both the temperature and pressure to see if it will help.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

debz1959 said:


> Several things I can recommend...
> 
> 1. Since you have a 4800, print your transfer in the middle of a larger sheet of transfer paper, that way the edges are not under the press. The larger paper costs a bit more, but you will have no edge marks...
> 
> ...


These recommendations would be good for DyeSub, but are no good for Chromablast. A larger sheet of paper would only leave a larger box. The box nabs is experiencing is from the polymer on the Chromablast paper.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

nabs said:


> Yes, the person I spoke to from Sawgrass said it was equivalent to dyeSub and even a better system since we can print on any colored shirts. My husband was convinced that it would be the best route to go and we did. Compared to tranfers I purchased from proworld and springhill, this is a lot better even with the box but still has to be better then this for me to sell. So, my question is? If this was you in my situation what would you do? I could do both sub and chromablast I guess depending on the project if I had both types of shirts at home 50/50 and cotton. If the project printed was more of a square shape, chromablast would probably be fine.
> 
> Also, does anyone know of a software or company that does shirt design customizing on the web so customers can go to your website and customize their on shirt?
> 
> Thanks!


That's very unfortunate that Sawgrass would stoop to the the level of flat out lying. Personally, I'd be very upset that I was lied to and try to get my money back, but that probably won't happen. Sawgrass knows good and well that ChromaBlast is not equivalent to DyeSub, since they make both products. Anything to make a buck I guess. They are trying to squeeze every dollar they can out of people right now until their DyeSub patent runs out and the price of their ink plummets.


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

I am very upset because so far I spend a lot of money between the 4800 hybrid, swing away press and all of my 100 cotton clothes I have purchased. Although I still can't seem to start my business because I really don't wan't to give my customers anything but the best when it comes to what I offer. I wish Sawgrass was the same when it came to their product.

So, if I purchase Roland GX24 will I be able to use it with Chromablast and effectively eliminate the border on all my shirts, all colors? I did press a white shirt yesterday and it still had a border, I could see it. I only had it in the press for 7 seconds at 400 degrees but I could see the border. 
How about the Sitka <---I believe that is the name that is also from Roland 15". Would that work for cutting or is the GX24 the only kind I could use? I finances are thin with my online store not opening yet me simply still trying to figure all of this out.

Nabs


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

nabs said:


> So, if I purchase Roland GX24 will I be able to use it with Chromablast and effectively eliminate the border on all my shirts, all colors?/quote]
> 
> There are two issues you have to determine:
> 1. Is the ChromaBlast paper weedable? See my above post for how to test this. Most of what people have said is that it is not. If not, try and use another type of paper that is.
> ...


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Hi,

I just checked and the paper is not weedable. "I know you said if it isn't to use another type of paper? I thought I could only use Chromablast paper with the chromablast inks to make it work. Is that incorrect?

So, since it is not weedable, does not mean the GX-24 will not be able to cut it even if I did purchase it?

I just saw a few YouTube movies on the GX-24, they really can do so much and we could probably get our moneys worth sooner then later. I'm just anxious to start sooner then later with all of this.

Nabs


----------



## imeccentric (May 13, 2007)

Guess I'm one of the lucky ones here. No, Sawgrass isn't the best at support and being helpful. And, chromoblast is no substitute for sublimation. But, I too, have the hybrid system and get great prints with the chromoblast and so little box that you have to put it up to your nose to see it(and then, just barely). I don't hesitate to print lots of lettering without a background. I use heavy pressure, 400 degrees, for 60 seconds. I put a piece of butcher paper on top, then a teflon sheet to prevent scorching. To date, I , and my customers, have been very happy with the product. I do offer the dyesub shirts for a few dollars more, but most still opt for the chromoblast. White is the only color acceptable though, and I seem to have the best results with the Hanes beefy t's. While dyesub is still the best, lots of people don't like the poly fabric and want cotton. 


Jim
Embellishments in Thread


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

I have heard others using different transfer paper for the ChromaBlast ink. The key is whether the profiles are still going to work or not. I would call different transer distributors and see if you can purchase a sample pack.

The only other way you are going to be able to use the ChromaBlast paper is to put a carrier sheet on the back side of the paper and cut through the entire paper (but not the carrier sheet). The carrier sheets are the same material that you see when using heat applied film. I believe Imprintbles Warehouse sells carrier sheets like this. Call Josh, Adam, Bob, Lee or someone there and ask them.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

nabs said:


> I could do both sub and chromablast I guess depending on the project if I had both types of shirts at home 50/50 and cotton.


You can't really sublimate to 50/50. The ink will only attach to the poly fibers. Anything applied to the cotton fibers will wash out leaving a poor quality print.

I almost bought the 4800 Hybrid, but learned through the forum that Chromablast was not what they advertise it to be. I ended up buying a large format laser for doing transfers and an Epson 1400 for sublimation. I wish I could help more, but from my research, the box, or polymer in the unprinted area is (1) unavoidable and (2) may go away after wash or two (according to Sawgrass).


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

Just so everyone knows, you are not restrained to using ChromaBlast ink on the other side of a hybrid printer. You have another option for doing transfers to cotton garments. However, it is going to have all the positive / negative aspects of transfers (i.e. window unless you print-cut your transfers).


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

DAGuide said:


> The only other way you are going to be able to use the ChromaBlast paper is to put a carrier sheet on the back side of the paper and cut through the entire paper (but not the carrier sheet). The carrier sheets are the same material that you see when using heat applied film. I believe Imprintbles Warehouse sells carrier sheets like this. Call Josh, Adam, Bob, Lee or someone there and ask them.


They sent me a sample of the carrier sheets and it was nothing like I was expecting. Nothing like the clear mylar stuff that vinyl comes on. It was much thicker and unusable in my cutter. I'm not ever sure what it would be used for.


----------



## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

The carrier sheets are not supposed top be like the clear backing on regular vinyl. They are just a heavy sheet used to keep the blade from ruining the cutter strip when it cuts through the transfer paper.


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Hi Terry,

Excuse me for for just not knowing this, so bascially are you telling me even though my chromablast paper does not weed that it will still work and cut in the GX24? Would I print my image not mirrored ? Will this be a solution for cottion shirts of all colors since I will be able to trim all around?

I truly appreciate all the help!! = )

Nabs


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

BRC said:


> The carrier sheets are not supposed top be like the clear backing on regular vinyl. They are just a heavy sheet used to keep the blade from ruining the cutter strip when it cuts through the transfer paper.


How does the carrier ahere to the paper? The stuff they sent me had no adhesion to it, so the paper (or twill in my case) would slide around on it.


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

The quick gist is you can really only cut items that are two ply. The reason for this you need to have one layer that the roll grippers can grab and move the paper forward and back. If there is only one layer, once enough of the paper is cut...the roll grippers can't move the paper properly to finish the design. Thus the need for two ply. To best see this in action, try a plain piece of paper in your cutter and see what happens. 

So here are your steps:
1. Print your ChromaBlast transfer just like you usually do (i.e. mirror image) using the CutStudio program. This will drop the 3 registration dots that are picked up by the optical eye.
2. Lay the ChromaBlast transfer down on the carrier sheet with the print side facing up and not touching the sticky side of the carrier sheet (i.e. the back of the ChromaBlast paper is touching the sticky side of the carrier sheet).
3. Create your cut lines using the Image Outline function in CutStudio
4. Load the transfer paper/carrier sheet combo into the cutter with the transfer paper facing the cutting blade and the carrier sheet facing down.
NOTE: The carrier sheet is there for nothing but the purpose of being a solid sheet that the roll grippers can use to move the paper forward and back. You do not want to cut through the carrier sheets. You need to determine how much downforce pressure you need to just cut the ChromaBlast paper and not the carrier sheet.
5. Select the cutting button in CutStudio and let the cutter do its job.
6. Weed the excess paper of the ChromaBlast paper that does not have your graphic/design on it.
7. Flip the carrier sheet that has your graphic/design on it over and place it on your shirt.
8. Press the shirt.
NOTE: I have no clue what the melting point of the carrier sheet is. You will need to test this.
9. Peel the carrier sheet off the shirt. You might even have to peel the ChromaBlast paper as well if it does not come off with the carrier sheet.

Hope this clarifies the process and what the carrier sheet is used for.

Mark


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Decision??

After all of this great advise I am left with many decisions and very upset at Sawgrass at not being upfront with me from the start. Even though Chromablast does work for some people and does wash off for others it didn't work for me.

I contacted another dealer that I have been working with (very nice dealer to work with) and they suggested changing chromablast to a multiink color system and to use multirip for the driver. Is anyone using Multiink and how is it working for you? Is it true that it will work on both 50/50 and cotton shirts? Will going this route not cause a border to occur in my design?

I am also currently working with ExpertLogo to create a website through them for customers. I am thrilled at the prospect of what can happen in the next few days if I can put all of this together.

Nabs


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

nabs said:


> I contacted another dealer that I have been working with (very nice dealer to work with) and they suggested changing chromablast to a multiink color system and to use multirip for the driver. Is anyone using Multiink and how is it working for you?


I just got MultiRip installed and like it so far, but I've just done DyeSub with it. I have MultiInk also installed, but haven't tried it out yet.



nabs said:


> Is it true that it will work on both 50/50 and cotton shirts?


Yes, that's true.



nabs said:


> Will going this route not cause a border to occur in my design?


You will have the exact same problem with the clear box. It's a result of the polymer on the carrier paper. That's why I said earlier that ChromaBlast is just a beefed up version of an inkjet transfer. You still have to cut around every image if you don't want the clear box. The only advanatage of ChromaBlast over an inkjet transfer is that it is not supposed to fade as much an an inkjet transfer (MultiInk). And yet it costs like 2-3 time more than an inkjet transfer.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

For absolutely no polymer box, there are three solutions that I know of. 

(1) There is a no-cut inkjet paper out there but it does not appear to be available unless you want to order quantities in the thousands and become a dealer.

(2) ImageClip, which is for laser printers. It works and works well, but is a bit tempermental in it's application. What seems to work for other people doesn't work for me, so I'm slowing developing my own procedures.

(2a) DuraCottonHT, which is also a laser paper. It leaves a polymer box. The box is virtually invisible on white and the transfered image has a soft hand. On anything but white, the polymer box is quite noticable.

(3) Sublimation, which you can do with the equipment you have. You just need sublimation inks in one side of your printer. Sublimation leaves no window and no hand. The downside is the cost of the shirt blanks at $4.50 - $6.00 each.

I offer 3 quality levels, each with it's own price point. Duracotton, which I will trim within about 1/4" is the least expensive. ImageClip, which is more time consuming but leaves no polymer window is the next level. The most expensive is sublimation which is also the best quality print.

You could do the same. Put dye sub ink on one side and a good pigment ink in the other. Offer the inkjet transfer at one price and the sublimated shirts at a higher price for the customers who want better quality. You'd be surprised how many people will pay $8 or $10 more for a shirt after explaining and showing the difference.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

Very good information Ross. Thanks.


----------



## AustinJeff (May 12, 2007)

Good summary, Ross.

I would add that the time-consuming aspect of ImageClip can be greatly reduced if you have 2 heat presses. For the secondary press, if you are using a standard size laser printer, you can even use one of the small 9 X 12 presses. You can get a new Hix Lite on eBay for $250 or less.

Use the secondary press only for the initial ImageClip paper pressing. Once you get the pressure set, you can just leave it, which helps a lot, both in time and consistency.


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Thanks Ross that was very helpful. My last and only left question, I promise is will the Chromablast paper work with the GX24 and trim the image? I have a meeting tomorrow with a dealer who sells the Roland GX24 and I'm taking the Chromablast paper to see if it will cut. 

Thanks again.


----------



## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

You did leave out one option. You can use inkjet for dark shirts which is a two part paper. Simply print it in your inkjet printer, use a vinyl cutter such as the GX24 to cut around your design weed it and press it. For small pieces you will need a transfer tape such as Magic Mask or the backing from a used piece of Thermoflex. It may or may not hold up as long as Chromablast (which hasn't impressed me) but there is no box.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Do you have a reason to buy a vinyl cutter other than trimming transfers? My cutter can't reference registration marks, but I have manually referenced it and tried cutting transfer paper on a carrier sheet. It worked, but not all the time, which was unacceptable. Sometimes the blade would just tear and not cut. My cutter, which is the Refine 721 uses the Roland blades, so the result with that cutter will probably be the same.

If you don't need a cutter for any other purpose, I'd buy a laser printer instead. Then you can use ImageClip, which unless I'm mistaken, is the only true no-trim solution available right now....Other than sublimation. I think that's what you're looking for. 

Trimming with a machine will help, but all things considered, ImageClip would probably be less time consuming than printing, applying carrier sheet, loading into cutter and cutting. Also, you can only trim so close even with the cutter. You can't really trim between letters and you can't trim small areas of white space within an image.


----------



## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

rrc62 said:


> My cutter, which is the Refine 721 uses the Roland blades, so the result with that cutter will probably be the same.


Just because it uses the Roland blades doesn't mean it is the same machine. It is like comparing a Kia to a Ferrari, they are both cars but try doing 150 in a Kia. My cutter isn't a Roland either but after seeing the GX24 work my next one probably will be.


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

No offense, but if Nabs has already invested $2,000.00 into an inkjet printer (the MSRP cost of the 4800), then why would the answer be to invest in another printer? The cutter is going to provide her a wider gamut of things that can add to her product offering. She could cut heat applied film (the entire Specialty Materials line), make window cling graphics, create vinyl sign banners,... All of these things are not going to be done on a laser printer. In addition, ImageClip - just like ChromaBlast - is a light transfer solution. What does she do with dark colored shirts if she does not want a border?

Could the cost of the laser printer be less than a cutter. Sure, but you are not going to get the same printable area as she currently has right now. I have not checked the prices on CLCs that print tabloid, but they use to be a couple of thousands. That is right at the MSRP price as the GX-24 ($1995.00). 

I guess what I am getting to is a laser printer will work in some cases, but for what Nabs already has and what she wants to do with...the answer is an optical eye cutter.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Agreed, but based on how it cuts...IE: dragging the blade across the material, when it started tearing instead of cutting, I wasn't surprised. When I look for a solution, working 90% of the time doesn't cut it. If it doesn't work 100% and deliver consistent results, then it doesn't work. I'd need to see the GX24 cut 100 transfers without tearing one before I spent that kind of money on a machine dedicated to that purpose.

Re: Laser printers....I forgot to mention....My C8800 turns out photographic quality at 15 pages per minute.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

DAGuide said:


> No offense, but if Nabs has already invested $2,000.00 into an inkjet printer (the MSRP cost of the 4800), then why would the answer be to invest in another printer?


That's why I asked if she needed the cutter for reasons other than transfer trimming. If she does, then I agree.


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

Hi Ross ad Mark,

I really see good points made in both of your statements, that's why I am so confused right now and really have not made a decision one way or another. I do like the laser printer idea because it keeps me locked to the chromablast investment which I paid a great deal of money for and would still be able to use for a lot of projects that are easy to cut by hand. The laser printer would be ideal for black t-shirts, etc and other items that needed that none border look that the chromablast could not deliever. But I also like the idea of just switch right now to multirip and junking my cartridges of cromablast and paper but I have a large supply of and I REALLY don't feel like trying to sell at this time. I'm setting up a design it yourself t-shirt site and I know I have to be ready for anything. 

Nabs


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

Keep in mind that the no-cut laser paper (ImageClip) is for white/light colors. Any opaque paper, laser or inkjet will require trimming. The reason is that opaques have a white underbase which keeps the ink from tinting to the color of the shirt. ImageClip and Duracotton are similar to Chromablast in that the inl will tint to the color of the shirt.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

DAGuide said:


> make window cling graphics


Mark, you mentioned making window cling graphics. Does that mean they can be made with a 4800 and a vinyl cutter? If so, how is it done?

Thanks,
Rusty


----------



## BRC (Mar 27, 2007)

For window graphics you don't need the printer, just the cutter and some vinyl. For the static cling you just need static cling vinyl and put whatever color vinyl on it that you want. If you want full color graphics on it you can transfer the dye sub onto the ahdesive sheets like the Romark Mates and then put that onto the static cling vinyl cut to whatever shapes you want. It makes nice holiday stickers that you can put onto windows and then peel them off and use them again the next year. With a little imagination and lots of equipment plus some time to kill and you would be surprised how much work you can get yourself into.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

Thanks Terry. I posted a new thread over in vinyl cutters for continuing discussion about this. I didn't want to hijack this thread.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/vinyl-cutters-plotters-transfers/t28358.html#post166986

Thanks
Rusty


----------



## Dingbat (Jun 12, 2007)

Just a question:

Can the chromablast 4800 be set up with the 8 ink cartridges and operated as a standard 4800 sublimation printer? 

Just a note: I bought the Roland cutter to assist with heat pressing, but have now found that I can make a better margin using it to cut and press vinyl on athletic clothing and even more by making signs.


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

ChromaBlast ink only comes in CMYK. So, to have an 8-Color printer...you will have a Dual CMYK setup. Thus, the answer to your question is yes. The 4800 printer can be set up for just ChromaBlast ink, but you will use it in a dual CMYK mode.


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

You can use the 4800 just for sublimation. Sub inks are available in all 8 colors, but as Mark already said, Chromablast is only available in 4 colors.


----------



## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Not to discourage you nor being pessimistic. Wait 'til you start experiencing clogging problems. I red a post from another group that he has gone through 2 Espon 1280. He said "He is about to take them to the backyard pour lighter fluid, light them up and use them for barbecue fuel".

Sorry it is just the nature of the beast. That is something that you need to consider also as potential future problem.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

I've had an R1800 for about a year and a half and never had any clogs that a couple head cleanings wouldn't take care of. And usually when I had problems, it was due to the bulk delivery system rather than a clogged head.


----------



## vkbrown (Aug 5, 2007)

Fortunately nabs has a 4800 and not the 1280. The 1280's definitely do have clogging and head issues. However, I don't think those problems are prevalent with the 4800. It uses cartridges only so you don't have the problems with the lines clogging like with the bulk ink system on the 1280. I'm not saying it won't ever clog...just that it's not as big an issue as the 1280.


----------



## moontown (Aug 30, 2006)

I just attended Sawgrass dealer conference 2 weeks ago. They showed their new chromablast system for no over-print image transferring process. The new system still bases on current Chromablast 4800 system. The new confinguration includes left 4 channels of UV ink and right 4 channels of chromablast ink. The 4800 printer is connected with a small UV curing belt. the non-image area on the transfer paper is blocked by the UV ink duirng the transfer. Only image area will be transferred to the T-shirt. They tranferred images on different light color shirts. All these shirts look great, and just like (maybe better than) the screen printing shirt, no "box" anymore. I was told that if you have a chromablast 4800 system now, you may need to spend $3000-4000 to update to this new system. If you really want to remove the tranfer "box" or make light color shirt, it would be a good solution.


they also showed some chromblast dark T-shirt samples made by this system, it looks great, no white box, no cutter needed, no peel off for transfer. 

Sawgrass said that they will introduce this new chromablast system in Orlando SGIA show.


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

That is some really cool news. Can't wait to see it in action.


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

moontown said:


> I just attended Sawgrass dealer conference 2 weeks ago. They showed their new chromablast system for no over-print image transferring process. The new system still bases on current Chromablast 4800 system. The new confinguration includes left 4 channels of UV ink and right 4 channels of chromablast ink. The 4800 printer is connected with a small UV curing belt. the non-image area on the transfer paper is blocked by the UV ink duirng the transfer. Only image area will be transferred to the T-shirt. They tranferred images on different light color shirts. All these shirts look great, and just like (maybe better than) the screen printing shirt, no "box" anymore. I was told that if you have a chromablast 4800 system now, you may need to spend $3000-4000 to update to this new system. If you really want to remove the tranfer "box" or make light color shirt, it would be a good solution.
> 
> 
> they also showed some chromblast dark T-shirt samples made by this system, it looks great, no white box, no cutter needed, no peel off for transfer.
> ...


Sounds promising. Just $3000-$4000 to get rid of the box, what a deal?  And you could no longer use your 4800 as a hybrid anymore.

So is Sawgrass now finally admitting that ChromaBlast leaves the clear box? I guess they kind of have to since they will be selling a new $4000 system to get rid of it. It's funny that they sell you the system that is not supposed to leave any box for a couple thousand, and then later tell you that if you want to get rid of this non-existent box, it will just cost you another $4000.  Spoken like true con-artists.

Oh when is their patent up on sublimation ink? I can't wait


----------



## nabs (Apr 14, 2007)

rusty said:


> Sounds promising. Just $3000-$4000 to get rid of the box, what a deal?  And you could no longer use your 4800 as a hybrid anymore.
> 
> So is Sawgrass now finally admitting that ChromaBlast leaves the clear box? I guess they kind of have to since they will be selling a new $4000 system to get rid of it. It's funny that they sell you the system that is not supposed to leave any box for a couple thousand, and then later tell you that if you want to get rid of this non-existent box, it will just cost you another $4000.  Spoken like true con-artists.
> 
> Oh when is their patent up on sublimation ink? I can't wait


I will not purchase another product from them. They promised no border the first time, like Rusty says. Now, they want us to pay another $3000 to $4000 to get rid of the border?? Forget it!!!! I saw the GX24 at work at a show I recently went to and they tested my chromablast paper. It cut through the paper just fine so that is what I will be using when I print using the 4800. In addition to my DTG I purchased!!! = ) My recommendation, save the money and invest in a DTG printer. = )


----------



## majesticmind (Sep 1, 2007)

I had a dealer send me a cotton sample of chromablast. It looked great, but evne the sample had the border. Not really noticable cause they matched the paper color and shirt color really good. but stiil there. even from the dealer. hell i just use scissors to cut heat transfers out. always beautiful. no machine errors to deal with ,$1.00 for scissors and i do it quicker than the machine does. aand if any of you get clogs in printers just soak the tips in hot water(dont get the rest of cartridge wet). and run a test print , clog gone very easy.


----------



## DAGuide (Oct 2, 2006)

If I understand moontown correctly, you would spend $3,000-$4,000 on top of what you spend on the 4800 hybrid to convert it to a cotton only machine. The UV inks will take the space of the dye sub inks. Just wondering what the cost of a new printer designed specifically for the UV/ChromaBlast set would be. $6,000-$7,000 is kinda expensive to do just cotton transfers and that does not include the cost of the ink/paper. Wonder how fast this system does transfers. Only 3 more weeks left before the SGIA Show. Can't wait for all the new stuff.


----------



## moontown (Aug 30, 2006)

DAGuide said:


> If I understand moontown correctly, you would spend $3,000-$4,000 on top of what you spend on the 4800 hybrid to convert it to a cotton only machine. The UV inks will take the space of the dye sub inks. Just wondering what the cost of a new printer designed specifically for the UV/ChromaBlast set would be. $6,000-$7,000 is kinda expensive to do just cotton transfers and that does not include the cost of the ink/paper. Wonder how fast this system does transfers. Only 3 more weeks left before the SGIA Show. Can't wait for all the new stuff.


based on sawgrass description, the end user for this new chromablast system is not for current transfer paper customer. they will sell this system to screen printing business to help them fill the small orders.


----------



## moontown (Aug 30, 2006)

Oh when is their patent up on sublimation ink? I can't wait [/quote]


Sawgrass filed their sublimation patents in 1995, and will be expired on 2012. the ink price will drop to $30/liter after that


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

moontown said:


> based on sawgrass description, the end user for this new chromablast system is not for current transfer paper customer. they will sell this system to screen printing business to help them fill the small orders.


That would make sense. It's still a lot cheaper than DTG. But it's still frustrating that Sawgrass is deceiving everybody they are selling the current ChromaBlast system to.


----------



## electricroo (Sep 19, 2007)

Hi all;
I am just curious. What happens when you print on Chrmablast paper with standard pigmented ink? Any one try this?


----------



## moontown (Aug 30, 2006)

Based on my experience, all pigment inks work for chromablast paper. Just need to match the color with a ICC profile in your graphic printing software (such as photoshop ). 



electricroo said:


> Hi all;
> I am just curious. What happens when you print on Chrmablast paper with standard pigmented ink? Any one try this?


----------



## rrc62 (Jun 2, 2007)

nabs said:


> The laser printer would be ideal for black t-shirts, etc and other items that needed that none border look that the chromablast could not deliever.


Since this thread started, I've tested a few opaque transfer paper and have not found anything that I would sell to a customer. I've actually blown the dust off my screen printing equipment. If I can't talk the customer out a dark color shirt, I'll make plastisol transfers.


----------



## charles95405 (Feb 1, 2007)

will print, will wash out, will fade... end of my experiment


----------



## rusty (Feb 9, 2007)

rrc62 said:


> Since this thread started, I've tested a few opaque transfer paper and have not found anything that I would sell to a customer. I've actually blown the dust off my screen printing equipment. If I can't talk the customer out a dark color shirt, I'll make plastisol transfers.


A decent opaque transfer is one of those things like Bigfoot. I'll have to see it to believe it, and even then I probably still won't believe it .


----------



## gadget (Jul 16, 2007)

i agree sawgrass ( like many others) have been misleading...I am in the process of possibly purchasing a 4800 hybrid at a very good price. ( i can always change the inks to artanium...3rd party or whatever..even a fine art printer) however my concern is not just the border it leaves and then if i use a roland cutter all the extra time and labor for weeding...There is the misleading high price of each print..Ink plus their paper. I want to print on cotton so i can produce a much less expensive t-shirt than my dye sub. and i do not want to give my customer a shirt and tell them that the border will go away after it is washed ( i also have been told that...do not know if it is true)


----------

