# Cameo & JPSS Settings



## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

here are some settings i finally arrived at last night for a print & cut from the cameo onto JPSS for weeding

blade - 1 
speed - 5 
Depth - 20 

they were a set of many basic shapes and it worked well, 
but you may need a speed adjustment for more detailed designs

once you start weeding at a corner it goes fairly well (easyweed it is not, but it went better than i expected)

if you find better settings please post,
but i think this is a good starting point

take care


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

did some more last night wit the same settings above

cameo missed a few end cuts due to my mat being less sticky than it should
so i just cut these with an xacto, being sure not to cut through the backing

i also made a cut with the xacto to separate larger sections,
because the cameo was missing end cuts

but the settings worked well


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## john221us (Nov 29, 2015)

Maybe I'll try it (I have never weeded the weedless paper). Have you had any registration issues with the Cameo? Mine seems to be off a little on the vertical, even after I calibrated.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

never calibrated, it seems good 
(i posted a t-shirt shaped business/hanging card file for the cameo and it cut fine for me)

check out this site for more info:
print and cut


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## john221us (Nov 29, 2015)

into the T said:


> never calibrated, it seems good
> (i posted a t-shirt shaped business/hanging card file for the cameo and it cut fine for me)
> 
> check out this site for more info:
> print and cut


It could be a lighting thing. Admittedly, the place I have it set up has poor lighting.


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## AngelicEndeavour (Aug 12, 2013)

Thank for the Cameo settings -- I've searched for that info before, and was not lucky enough to find any -- until now! THANK YOU! I will try this when I have time...


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Thank you for sharing. I tried it once and the polymer crumbled on me even large piece. So I decided to abandon it. I figured if it was that much difficulty with large piece then it would be more so with small pieces like small text and fine lines. That is why I came up with masking. It does not have be super accurate. A little slack would not be noticed and not critical.

I do have registration issue also. For some reason the cut is off relative to the registration marks. I called Graphtec about it. I was told negative value is allowed as input to make the corrections. So after the registration mark was read I jog the knife position to compensate the error the press the origin button.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

interesting vid i just watched
(although not explicitly mentioned it sure looks like jpss)

kind of a combination of your method and my thoughts with the transparency


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

into the T said:


> interesting vid i just watched
> (although not explicitly mentioned it sure looks like jpss)
> 
> kind of a combination of your method and my thoughts with the transparency


The process in the video is entirely different than my procedure. The video is showing how to contour cut heat transfer using transparency with dot on it and vinyl cutter that does not have registration sensor. The dot was used as point of origin to tell the cutter where the cut outline was. 

BTW the image was not mirrored so it will be backwards on the shirt.

With mine I contour cut a plain printer paper and use it as a mask. Remove and discard the image part. Align the mask over the the image on the transfer. Cover both mask and transfer with parchment paper. Press for 6 seconds at 225F to marry the mask and the transfer. Then press the married papers image side down on the shirt. Peel both papers together.

The video technique will come in handy for contour cutting paper mask for vinyl cutter that don't have registration sensor. The transparency is not needed if the dot is included in the transfer paper. It would be like adding the registration marks for cutters with sensor.

I have CorelDRAW plugin for my cutter so I cut directly from CorelDRAW. For other cutters that don't have plugin the contour cut line file has to be exported in EPS format or format that is acceptable by the cutter.

Here is how I would do to add the dot and cut in CorelDRAW it without the transparency.

1) Create the contour cut line but don't delete the main object(s) then save it.
3) Deselect all the objects.
4) Press Ctrl+A to reselect all the objects.
5) Press Ctrl+C to copy. 
2) Open a new document.
3) Press Ctrl+V to paste the objects.
4) Delete the main object(s) then save it with new file unique name. To use it for other cutter that don't have CorelDRAW plugin export it as EPS file or other format.
5) Switch back to the first file.
6) Hide or lock the main object(s).
7) Select the contour cut line. Convert it to bitmap. Keep it selected. 
8) If the Dynamic Guides is not active press Alt+Shift+D to activate it.
9) Press F7 to select the Rectangle tool.
10) Locate the left top corner until the word "node" at the corner handle of the bitmap appears.
11) Click on it and drag to the bottom right corner until the word "node" at the corner handle of the bitmap appears. The edges of the cut line should be tangible to the perimeter of the rectangle.
12) Press F6 to select the ellipse tool.
13) Press and hold Ctrl+Shift.
14) At the bottom right corner of the rectangle click and drag outwards to draw the circle.
15) Change the width and height values to .05
16) Click the black color in the color palette.
17) Delete the bitmap and the rectangle.
18) Unhide or unlock the main object(s). Then save the file.
19) Print the main object(s) with the dot on the transfer(s) as many as needed ahead of time.
20) Switch to the contour cut line file.
21) Load the transfer in the plotter as straight as possible.
22) Initialize the plotter.
23) Jog the knife on center of the dot.
24) Press Origin button.
25) Launch the cutter plugin or software.
26) Send the file to the plotter.
27) Cut and weed plain paper mask the same amount as the transfer(s).

My plotter is very temperamental when finding the registration marks. So doing it this way will be much faster.

I know you have a plotter with registration sensor but try it with AI and see how it plays out.

I would rather use plain paper mask than actually contour cutting the actual transfer to avoid wasting transfer(s) if something goes wrong during contour cutting and weeding the transfer. Plain paper mask is a lot cheaper than transfer paper.

If I was to contour cut a transfer I would use Magic Mask to hold the floating objects in place. I would place the transfer on the Magic Mask. Contour cut all the way through the transfer paper backing. Weed the transfer. Then press both Magic Mask on the shirt with light pressure for 5 seconds just enough so that the transfer polymer will stick on the shirt. Peel the Magic Mask off the transfer while warm to preserve its adhesive and reuse it later. Press the transfer using the transfer settings. Each paper backing of floating objects are peeled off the shirt individually.

Cutting and weeding the paper backing is so much easier and faster than weeding the transfer polymer. I said that because it was not pleasant when I tried to weed the polymer of JPSS.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

The photos show before and after the transfer and the mask were married. I changed the color of the mask when the mask is on top of the transfer to show the color contrast better compared to white mask I posted in another thread. The transfer and mask in the photo were not trimmed. Overhanging transfer edges must be trimmed to prevent the polymer from transferring on the shirt.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

that method would make life easier than cutting and weeding the jpss itself,
plus you are right about sometimes having a cut ruin the jpss (which is another added cost)

will try your method soon, as i have some more jpss on order


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

into the T said:


> that method would make life easier than cutting and weeding the jpss itself,
> plus you are right about sometimes having a cut ruin the jpss (which is another added cost)
> 
> will try your method soon, as i have some more jpss on order


Can you make a video of whichever method you use be it paper mask of Magic mask? I use freeware CamStudio to make a video. I splice the captured output of CamStudio with video camera output.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

my wife and i have never owned a cell phone or video camera 

i have an old small digital camera that i could see if it takes video

what do i do if it does take video, upload it to the forum?

i don't know if there is going to be exif-type metadata embedded within the file,
so i'll probably just take some pics, edit in gimp to remove exif data and upload here


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

into the T said:


> my wife and i have never owned a cell phone or video camera
> 
> i have an old small digital camera that i could see if it takes video
> 
> ...


I upload my videos to YouTube so they are available to everyone.

Here are some suggestions:

Capture the digital part in your computer with CamStudio like creating the files, sending the data to the cutter. The rest is with video camera like loading the transfer in the cutter, aligning the knife on the dot, initialize the cutter, aligning and marrying the mask and transfer, pressing and peeling of the shirt etc. Splice the CamStudio and camera outputs. If you have logitech or something similar you can capture video with CamStudio. Upload the video to YouTube. Lots of steps I know. You can narrate better than I can. 

If nothing else pics will do.

Sorry English is not my native language. I would be stuttering.

Listen to my narration in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3_bYJ4rNZY

BTW if you are into rhinestone check my videos in YouTube (Sorry its 
a no no, self promotion.) . Use Lnfortun as keyword in the search input window. Mostly non-vocal. I use YouTube's Annotations method.

Sorry I did not mean to hijack your thread.


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## into the T (Aug 22, 2015)

i put a permanent cover over the laptop camera,
plus i don't have a youtube account or a desire to acquire one

will do on the rhinestone videos, as that is something that has always seemed interesting to me


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## Shallena66 (Jul 26, 2017)

Lnfortun said:


> The photos show before and after the transfer and the mask were married. I changed the color of the mask when the mask is on top of the transfer to show the color contrast better compared to white mask I posted in another thread. The transfer and mask in the photo were not trimmed. Overhanging transfer edges must be trimmed to prevent the polymer from transferring on the shirt.



Luis... I was thinking you just taped the mask to the jpss but you dont... you said you pressed contact paper... I cant figure out where that would be pressed at... or to.... in my head i saw the mask cut out... taped onto the jpss... then lay the design onto the shirt and press... what am I missing?? Where does pressing the contact paper come in??


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Shallena66 said:


> Luis... I was thinking you just taped the mask to the jpss but you dont... you said you pressed contact paper... I cant figure out where that would be pressed at... or to.... in my head i saw the mask cut out... taped onto the jpss... then lay the design onto the shirt and press... what am I missing?? Where does pressing the contact paper come in??


There is no contact paper. It is parchment paper. It is used to protect JPSS from sticking to the upper platten when the mask is pressed on JPSS. No taping is required because Jpss adhesive will attach to the mask. Once you pressed the mask and the Jpss they are ready to press on the shirt.

I used colored paper to illustrate when the mask is aligned to Jpss with the artwork exposed through the mask cutout. You can use premium laser printer paper instead for the mask.

The image below shows the mask before the mask is pressed over the JPSS









The image below shows when the two papers are aligned before they are pressed together.









Once they are aligned cover them with parchment paper then press for 6 seconds at 225F with light pressure just so that the mask is stuck to Jpss. Press the pair with Jpss facing down on the shirt at pressing temp, time and pressure. Peel both papers hot or cold peel.

The Magic Mask method is different setup. You place the printed JPSS on the Magic Mask to hold the paper instead of sticky carrier mat to contour cut it. The knife must be adjusted to cut through Jpss paper backing. Weed the excess paper then press the Magic Mask with weeded Jpss on the shirt. Peel hot or cold. Magic Mask can tolerate the press temp the sticky carrier mat will melt.


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## Shallena66 (Jul 26, 2017)

oh... ok... gotcha! I was thinking you were pressing the parchment paper to the transfer... but you are just covering it up.... I am going to give this a try this weekend... I love how jpss looks... just can not weed it if my life depended on it... just seems to come of in small pieces at a time... I was digging in my trash for carrier sheets to contour cut it but this seems to be a better way since I wouldnt be messing up my jpss if the cutter wigged out... thanks Luis!


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## webtrekker (Jan 28, 2018)

If your cutter can use a mat then the Hinge Method is much simpler for cutting without registration marks - 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rptrF5U4kfU

Seriously though, anyone wanting to cut JPSS accurately ....... buy a cutter with a sensor! (laser dot sensor preferably).


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

Shallena66 said:


> oh... ok... gotcha! I was thinking you were pressing the parchment paper to the transfer... but you are just covering it up.... I am going to give this a try this weekend... I love how jpss looks... just can not weed it if my life depended on it... just seems to come of in small pieces at a time... I was digging in my trash for carrier sheets to contour cut it but this seems to be a better way since I wouldnt be messing up my jpss if the cutter wigged out... thanks Luis!


Exactly. No matter what others said that Jpss can be contour cut and weeded. The polymer crumbled on me when I tried weeding Jpss. You can't destroy Jpss using mask as long as the cutout is large enough so that the artwork is exposed when the mask and Jpss are pressed together. Even 1/4" bigger clearance will not be noticed.


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## Lnfortun (Feb 18, 2006)

webtrekker said:


> If your cutter can use a mat then the Hinge Method is much simpler for cutting without registration marks -
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rptrF5U4kfU
> 
> Seriously though, anyone wanting to cut JPSS accurately ....... buy a cutter with a sensor! (laser dot sensor preferably).


That was a nice presentation if the artwork is not floating objects like the photo I posted above. Using a high temp material, that can withstand 375F or higher, like Magic Mask to hold the floating objects and keep the placement is better than the sticky cutting mat. Then without removing the weeded artwork off the Magic Mask press them on the shirt. Magic Mask is reusable. The trick is to press the combo just enough time so Jpss sticks on the shirt. Peel the Magic Mask then press the pieces at full temp, time and pressure. The cut does not have to be super accurate. As a matter of fact a certain amount of clearance is required to prevent clipping the artwork. A little bit of polymer around the artwork will not be as bad as a rectangular window. BTW disaster can happen contour cutting the transfer.


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## Shallena66 (Jul 26, 2017)

Then what do you do to keep the design together? Like a design with words... the letters would all be detached from the design... It would all look great on the cutting mat but how do you get the design from the cutting mat to the substrate without messing it up... keeping everything that is not attached aligned correctly?


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## webtrekker (Jan 28, 2018)

Actually, because the JPSS backing is transparent, you can often get away with bridging the floating bits, depending on what material you are pressing the transfer too, as on this cotton tote bag I made a while ago. It's very hard to see the connecting strips under normal conditions.


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## Shallena66 (Jul 26, 2017)

Loove the design... love how the word beach looks like sand  I have tried leaving a connector piece... but doesnt work very well on the gray shirts which is of course what everyone wants unless they want black which is a totally different conversation... lol


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