# T-shirt Making Tips/Curiosities?



## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Does anyone have any suggestions on how some of these (in my opinion) works of art were created. 

For instance are the stripes on the ribcage picture screened on and if so was that the first layer or how does that work a little new to screen printing about to purchase one well edit looking for one, lol.

Another question any idea how that patch was made. Could I make something like that then spray it to make it glossy? Or prob was made by a label company?

What about the continuous pattern and silky affect of the owl shirt. I know I have been told that most likely it was printed first in continuous prints or using a belt printer but just curiosity killed the cat on some of these shirts.

super thanks to whoever reads this

-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> For instance are the stripes on the ribcage picture screened on and if so was that the first layer or how does that work


The stripes were done after the garment was constructed, but before the other printing. It would have been screenprinted. Most likely it was done in a belt printer, but given how simple it is it could have been done on a table. It would have been done separately to the final print.



ieaturheart said:


> Another question any idea how that patch was made.


I can barely even tell it is a patch from that photo. Might be vinyl, might be a litho transfer, might be fabric. I have no idea.



ieaturheart said:


> What about the continuous pattern and silky affect of the owl shirt.


Custom printed fabric that is then sewn into shirts. The fabric roll was printed *before* the shirt was made (this one was clearly not done with a belt printer).

The silky effect (you mean the mottled colours?) is most likely a wash or a dye effect. It's hard to tell, but it was probably done to the fabric before it was printed.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

thanks for all the great advice. i see what you are saying about the third owl one. 

yeah its like he dyed it with tea and dye coloring or something, idk. yeah that patch looks as if he cut a square out of the shirt then sewed it on from the inside of the shirt. i just didnt know how he would have made that. 

so for instance if i wanted stripes like that on a shirt. just take grey and a screen and screen on 6 grey stripes or whatever first? then let it dry, then screened on white let it dry then the pink and eureka it was done? am i getting this concept right?


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> so for instance if i wanted stripes like that on a shirt. just take grey and a screen and screen on 6 grey stripes or whatever first? then let it dry, then screened on white let it dry then the pink and eureka it was done? am i getting this concept right?


Basically, yes. If you have the equipment you'd use a flash dryer to speed up the drying step, but same principle.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> Basically, yes. If you have the equipment you'd use a flash dryer to speed up the drying step, but same principle.


 
ok thanks i have been told by the local guy when he let me tag along in his shop for a few hours, to 'always' use a white underlay to help the colors pop. is this true or did i misunderstand him. im still new to all this and dont have any equipment (yet) in front of me. i want to have everything i need (the basics) by the end of may so im looking into it. 

just off the subject so far on my list i have written: shirts, ink, dye, bulbs, screens, silk screener, domain, website, emulsion, transfer paper, graphics pen (maybe), squeeges. in case those reading dont know im starting a solo company in my garage making highly unique one of a kind hand-made, hand-dyed, hand-signed/numbered, hand-everything shirts. so with that in mind im not planning on putting out 100's and 100's of shirts at a time, so im not planning on buying anything more then a 6 color press and not going to buy a conveyor dryer and all that shop fancy stuff. the reason i listed that was incase you want to add things i will need. i know starting a company isnt cheap im not trying to go cheap just not trying to go broke, in college also lol. 

thanks to whoever reads this.


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> ok thanks i have been told by the local guy when he let me tag along in his shop for a few hours, to 'always' use a white underlay to help the colors pop. is this true or did i misunderstand him.


It's possible you misunderstood the context, it's possible he was in error. You would use a white underbase if you are printing on darks and want the colours to pop. If you're printing on lights you don't need it, and if you don't *want* the colours to pop (you want a subdued, subtle look) then you wouldn't use it either.



ieaturheart said:


> the reason i listed that was incase you want to add things i will need.


If you're using plastisol, or printing on dark colours (black especially), you'll need a flash dryer.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> If you're using plastisol, or printing on dark colours (black especially), you'll need a flash dryer.


 
plastisol is the ink used during silk screening, correct?


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> plastisol is the ink used during silk screening, correct?


It's one of the two main types, the other being waterbased.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> It's one of the two main types, the other being waterbased.


 
any suggestions on which one is usually used?

and i was looking at dharma trading co and their stuff (because i plan on buying dye from them), but they really only have versatex ink. any suggestions on ink usually used for silk screening or that would be ideal for my handmade endeavors? and places i could look into that sell inks? if versatex will work fine then more power because i could order from on company but eh. thanks


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> any suggestions on which one is usually used?


Plastisol is usually used, especially for commercial printing. Waterbased is becoming more and more common though. I might even go so far as to say it's what's usually used by indie t-shirt designers (a specific niche where it's popular, though not the only one).

You can do things to either ink to get results like the other, but essentially plastisol is more opaque and waterbased gives you a softer feel on the garment.



ieaturheart said:


> they really only have versatex ink.


I'm pretty sure versatex is waterbased.



ieaturheart said:


> any suggestions on ink usually used for silk screening or that would be ideal for my handmade endeavors?


Waterbased has one big disadvantage, and one big advantage. It's disadvantage is that it air dries. It's advantage is that it air dries.

So (unlike plastisol) waterbased ink can dry in your screen if you're not printing fast enough, and if you really let it dry in there you won't be able to get it out without reclaiming the screen (and starting again).

On the plus side, it air dries on the garment. You still need to cure (heat set) it so it's washfast, but it does make it a bit easier to deal with in a home situation.

With waterbased inks you won't be working with as many solvent cleaners (though it won't eliminate them all).

Waterbased is more common for home printers since in a push you can cure it with a home iron. Either ink will give you a professional and long lasting result.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> Plastisol is usually used, especially for commercial printing. Waterbased is becoming more and more common though. I might even go so far as to say it's what's usually used by indie t-shirt designers (a specific niche where it's popular, though not the only one).


So last night i searched the forums and read a huge article about waterbased versus plastisol. Im sorry to have so many questions but i still have a few curiosities. 

Assuming i will use plastisol:
by flash drying the design does that cure it for fastdry or do you need a piece of equipment?
i read about these additives (in the forums and then i googled it) that are curable reducers and the company also had a soft hand additive (company that came up on google was atlas textiles), how do they work?
if i went with plastisol for the indie/emo/scene look and used curable reducers/soft hand additives would (in your opinion) i achieve a decent smooth looking shirt? and wouldnt i also have the same drying in the screen problem and possibilty, similar to waterbased, once additives are in the ink? (bc i assume they thin out the plastisol ink?)

Assuming i chose waterbased:
do i need a different screening press to use waterbased?
i am going for the indie look but also all my shirts start off as a plain white t, and i produce art and my medium is a t-shirt. should i think about waterbased because im doing this in my garage?
since im making each shirt by hand i will not be producing 100 shirts at a time but rather 20 or so. im going for quality not quantity. so since waterbased dries in the screen if your not fast enough should i stick with plastisol?
waterbased is cheaper from what i read, right?
do i need new eqiupment to use waterbased?
is it harder to use then plastisol, besides needing to be somewhat fast and not slow?

another question please, lol. how do you line all this up? lets say you have 4 colors how do you make sure all images are emulsioned (not sure what it is called) onto all the screens at the same place? how do i make sure the screens when laid down onto the shirt will produce an image in the area of the shirt i want it. from what i learned from watching the guy go to town on making shirts was he puts a mark on his board that he slides his shirts on to. then he aligns the collar to the same spot everytime. should i follow the same?



sorry for so many questions. thanks so much lewis and whoever else who reads this.


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> i still have a few curiosities.


Ug. Sure do 



ieaturheart said:


> by flash drying the design does that cure it for fastdry or do you need a piece of equipment?


The flash dryer is intended to make the ink tack dry while printing, so you can (for example) lay down two layers of white. You use it to gel the inks, not cure them.

It's common for new printers to also use it to fully cure the shirts (after they've been printed, off the platen). While it's not ideal for that (ideally you would buy a drying oven), it works (and has worked for many people), and saves a lot of money in the short term while starting up.



ieaturheart said:


> i read about these additives (in the forums and then i googled it) that are curable reducers and the company also had a soft hand additive (company that came up on google was atlas textiles), how do they work?


You put them in. They reduce the ink. Don't put more than the company suggests.



ieaturheart said:


> if i went with plastisol for the indie/emo/scene look and used curable reducers/soft hand additives would (in your opinion) i achieve a decent smooth looking shirt?


I imagine so, but I don't use plastisol.



ieaturheart said:


> and wouldnt i also have the same drying in the screen problem and possibilty, similar to waterbased, once additives are in the ink?


I'm pretty sure you won't.



ieaturheart said:


> do i need a different screening press to use waterbased?


No. You generally use a different emulsion (so some of the chemicals are different) but all of the equipment and principles are the same.



ieaturheart said:


> i am going for the indie look but also all my shirts start off as a plain white t, and i produce art and my medium is a t-shirt. should i think about waterbased because im doing this in my garage?


If you're doing it in your garage you might find waterbased better from an OH&S standpoint (although either will present problems). If you're starting with white shirts, that negates one of the biggest drawbacks of waterbased ink (that it's not as opaque).



ieaturheart said:


> so since waterbased dries in the screen if your not fast enough should i stick with plastisol?


It's not really a dealbreaker, it's just something to be aware of. Particularly in a 20 shirt print run, you're less likely to run into problems.



ieaturheart said:


> waterbased is cheaper from what i read, right?


So I've heard.



ieaturheart said:


> do i need new eqiupment to use waterbased?


No. If you want to you can use both, most people just choose to stick to one or the other.



ieaturheart said:


> is it harder to use then plastisol, besides needing to be somewhat fast and not slow?


I don't have much basis for comparison, but I don't believe so. There's the drying thing, there's the chance that it won't be opaque on darks... other than that, it's the same.



ieaturheart said:


> how do you line all this up?


Carefully.



ieaturheart said:


> lets say you have 4 colors how do you make sure all images are emulsioned (not sure what it is called) onto all the screens at the same place?


Exposed is the word you're looking for, and you register the artwork to the screens before you expose them.



ieaturheart said:


> how do i make sure the screens when laid down onto the shirt will produce an image in the area of the shirt i want it.


...as well as registering the artwork to the screen, you are registering it in the place you want it on the shirt.



ieaturheart said:


> from what i learned from watching the guy go to town on making shirts was he puts a mark on his board that he slides his shirts on to. then he aligns the collar to the same spot everytime. should i follow the same?


It will make life a bit easier.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

wow Lewis as always thanks so much for the advice and help. it means more than you really understand. im not just saying that but as a kid in texas i really really mean it. for you to take the time and answer my questions means a lot man. 

you said since im starting off with white shirts it gets rid of the opaque problem. i should have mentioned that i am dying my own shirts then silkscreening them. Or could i silkscreen then dye or no? in the end if i have a green shirt and go to use the waterbased inks i think i might be happier. so my choice (in my opinion because i want that indie/emo/scene look) is to use waterbased or to use plastisol/with additives. waterbased ink is sounding like a really good decision. if you suggest from what you read about what im doing and my plans (handmade shirts) then which ink would you suggest. if its waterbased (since that is what you use) then can you give me any advice. what is different about the drying of the shirts. i print the shirts then just let them air dry or i mean flash them then keep printing then once done with my 4 shirts let them dry then start over again? 

thanks
-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> you said since im starting off with white shirts it gets rid of the opaque problem. i should have mentioned that i am dying my own shirts then silkscreening them.


Ah of course, sorry - it's sometimes hard to remember all the threads and pull them together (I tend to answer posts on a post by post basis without much context in mind). Waterbased inks can give perfectly opaque results on dark fabric anyway, it's just not as easy to find the right ink, etc.



ieaturheart said:


> Or could i silkscreen then dye or no?


Probably not, although I really should try that some time and see what happens. If you want to experiment with different ways to decorate shirts, you could try it, but I think the overdyeing would muddy your colours. You might be able to use it to get some subtle effects though.

On the subject of dyeing, I know you're also currently looking at what blanks to use. You should take a look at Alternative Apparel: they make PFD (Prepared For Dye) shirts. They're all cotton construction (including the thread), and sized to allow for some shrinkage due to the dyeing process. I haven't tried their PFD shirts, but in general Alt. App shirts are very soft, very nice shirts (similar to American Apparel - there are some things Alternative do better (softness, style range), and some things they don't do as well (colour range)).



ieaturheart said:


> so my choice (in my opinion because i want that indie/emo/scene look) is to use waterbased or to use plastisol/with additives.


Pretty much, yeah.



ieaturheart said:


> waterbased ink is sounding like a really good decision.


You should probably start there, then move over to plastisol if you wish to later.



ieaturheart said:


> what is different about the drying of the shirts.


You can get an air curing additive for waterbased: add it to your ink, leave the shirts to air dry, and in something like 72 hours they'll be cured (without needing to put them through a flash dryer or oven, etc.). I haven't tried it myself, so I don't know how good the results are.

Other than that... the best method to cure waterbased is the same as plastisol: an expensive conveyor oven. But there are other options. You can let the ink air dry, and then iron it (works in theory, just sometimes hard to be sure you've got all of it for the right amount of time). Or you can let it air dry, and then put it in a heat press.

A heat press will cost you a bit, but it's cheaper than buying an oven. You could also use it for other things: for example, since handmade is the thing you're going for, you could hand cut vinyl or flock material, and apply that with the heat press. With the combination of screenprinting and a heat press you can do foil printing (you can just use an iron, but a heat press will give you much better results).

So depending on what your budget is... you could start with waterbased ink, a screen, cut paper stencils, and a home iron (so $100 or so). Or you can buy a printing press, or chuck in a heat press, etc. as you expand (or now if you already have the budget for it).


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> A heat press will cost you a bit, but it's cheaper than buying an oven. You could also use it for other things: for example, since handmade is the thing you're going for, you could hand cut vinyl or flock material, and apply that with the heat press. With the combination of screenprinting and a heat press you can do foil printing (you can just use an iron, but a heat press will give you much better results).
> 
> So depending on what your budget is... you could start with waterbased ink, a screen, cut paper stencils, and a home iron (so $100 or so). Or you can buy a printing press, or chuck in a heat press, etc. as you expand (or now if you already have the budget for it).


 
wow, as always you do an amazing job. but this time you out did yourself. you answered what i have been really beating around the bush about...what i need and is it in my budget. 

its not personal in my opinion so here it is well my rough plan:

im in college so my dad (tired of hearing me talk about this for a year) is loaning me $500 and then i am planning on taking out another $500 or so out of my stock options (but putting it back). i really only need 100 shirts or so at first (thats a lot of work though lol) 

---i am planning on buying maybe 2/3 dozen smalls 2 dozen mediums 2 dozen large (so many smalls because im selling to young teenagers)
---then waterbased ink (have no idea where to go for this on the internet, any suggestions :]
---then a printing press (used, planning on 6 color)
---then screens
---dye (dharma trading co)
---stuff to make self exposure kit
---emulsion (waterbase ink specific?)
---transfer paper

---then if i can a heating press (would love to do foiling and patches and stuff, you read my mind)
---any additional cleaning main things i need
---dont want to buy a whole shop of stuff but dont want to skimp either. 
---o yeah maybe a sewing machine (a cheap walmart one)


hmm Lewis im going to be honest its 5am here and you made my day. you really are making this all come together for me. im going home tomorrow (well today actually) and was going to visit with my dad about this t-shirt stuff. i have no idea what all that will cost and im hoping around 1000. but if not i can work something out. also im planning on selling my shirts for around $50. i know thats high but a guy in cali sells his handmades for $90. and a lot of high end mass produced (no uniqueness) shirts sell for 40-50. so thats my plan to have all this by the end of mayish so this summer i can get this rolling. 

please edit whatever suggestions you have or comments.


thanks so much
-austin

ps this is an edit but omg that is the shirt i need tagless pfd im emailing them about a sample/buying one for a sample. you really did make my weekend. i know that sounds weird but im so pumped. like im so serious about this t-shirt thing no one understands but maybe my girlfriend of 2+ yrs.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> what i need and is it in my budget.


I think you're going to need to be careful what you buy. Your budget is good enough that you can buy a good bunch of equipment and definitely get started (buying the rest as you earn money and re-invest it into what you're doing), but not high enough that you can just buy everything you need from the start (unless you get lucky with deals on eBay, craigslist, etc. - which could happen). That's pretty normal, but you want to make sure every dollar counts.

For example, you might get a four colour press for $250 (six colour is definitely better, but personally I think if you can get a cheap four (which is more likely) and can't find a cheap six, it's fine to get started), a secondhand heat press for $250, a couple of hundred on shirts, a couple of hundred on inks, squeegees, some screens, etc. and away you go. On the other hand you might end up spending $800 on a press and trying to stretch the couple of hundred you have left over everything else. You won't really know until you start buying equipment, just bear in mind with everything you look at that your budget is finite - ask yourself not only is this piece of equipment worth it, but is it worth not being able to buy something else because of it. But don't be afraid to buy something - if you second guess every equipment purchase you'll never buy any equipment and start.



ieaturheart said:


> hmm Lewis im going to be honest its 5am here and you made my day. you really are making this all come together for me.


Glad I could help.



ieaturheart said:


> like im so serious about this t-shirt thing no one understands but maybe my girlfriend of 2+ yrs.


We understand


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> I think you're going to need to be careful what you buy. Your budget is good enough that you can buy a good bunch of equipment and definitely get started (buying the rest as you earn money and re-invest it into what you're doing), but not high enough that you can just buy everything you need from the start (unless you get lucky with deals on eBay, craigslist, etc. - which could happen). That's pretty normal, but you want to make sure every dollar counts.


how did my list of stuff that i posted sound. Did i have it all right or what. Any suggestions please on breaking it down for me (ie suggestions on places to get my waterbased ink, what will a heat press allow me to do?) just i made that little list and was wondering if i was right on or i was looking at some stuff wrong? thanks again Lewis


-austin

ps so you dont have to flip back and forth between pages 


i really only need 100 shirts or so at first (thats a lot of work though lol) 

---i am planning on buying maybe 2/3 dozen smalls 2 dozen mediums 2 dozen large (so many smalls because im selling to young teenagers)
---then waterbased ink (have no idea where to go for this on the internet, any suggestions :]
---then a printing press (used, planning on 6 color--edit: or 4 color if i cant find a really good deal on 6-color)
---then screens
---dye (dharma trading co)
---stuff to make self exposure kit
---emulsion (waterbase ink specific?)
---transfer paper

---then if i can a heating press (would love to do foiling and patches and stuff, you read my mind)
---any additional cleaning main things i need
---dont want to buy a whole shop of stuff but dont want to skimp either. 
---o yeah maybe a sewing machine (a cheap walmart one)


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

> ---i am planning on buying maybe 2/3 dozen smalls 2 dozen mediums 2 dozen large (so many smalls because im selling to young teenagers)
> ---then waterbased ink (have no idea where to go for this on the internet, any suggestions :]
> ---then a printing press (used, planning on 6 color)
> ---then screens
> ...


Sounds like you've got the production part taken care of in your plan.

How do you plan to sell your shirts? Do you have a marketing and advertising plan. How will your customers find your products and buy them?



> Any suggestions please on breaking it down for me (ie suggestions on places to get my waterbased ink, what will a heat press allow me to do?


Keep in mind that a lot of answers to your questions can be found in a forum search as well. That way you don't have to wait for someone to respond.


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> how did my list of stuff that i posted sound. Did i have it all right or what.


About right. If the "then"s indicate an order, you'll want to re-order those a bit (no point buying t-shirts before you have a way to decorate them, so from that point of view ink, a screen and a squeegee are the most important thing - with that alone you can do cut paper stencil printing).



ieaturheart said:


> suggestions on places to get my waterbased ink


I'm in Australia, so I don't have any suggestions on where to buy supplies in Texas.



ieaturheart said:


> what will a heat press allow me to do?


I think I've pretty much covered that: cure waterbased ink, apply vinyl and flock, apply foil. Plus of course the obvious (digital inkjet transfers).


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Rodney said:


> Sounds like you've got the production part taken care of in your plan.
> 
> How do you plan to sell your shirts? Do you have a marketing and advertising plan. How will your customers find your products and buy them?
> 
> ...


 
yes you are very very very right lol. i kind of forget that there is soooo many resources right under my hands. 


im looking into a website being made. and i also have a few myspace friends that have 50k plus friends, that im planning/talking to about posting a few bulletins (flyers) for me a week. also im going out to local shows and selling what i can there. then a friend of my moms is big into fashion and owns her own store. she said she would be more than happy to take some of my stuff and show the big wigs up in dallas a few of my shirts. thanks for the advice and help.



Solmu said:


> About right. If the "then"s indicate an order, you'll want to re-order those a bit (no point buying t-shirts before you have a way to decorate them, so from that point of view ink, a screen and a squeegee are the most important thing - with that alone you can do cut paper stencil printing).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ok i understand now. i will look into calling a few places and see if they use waterbased inks and if so where they purchase theirs at. also i did not mean any order by the thens but yes i do understand what you meant. thanks again for all of the advice. i appreciate it a super lot. thanks 


-austin


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

my to get list: 
please please edit and start making any corrections you see or suggest please it will help so much. im putting just about everything i can think of (so if you see something i dont need let me know), i prob have around 1000-1200 to start this off with. thanks for reading this im just trying to collect my money and figure out what i have versus what i need to i can start ordering stuff.

ps all my shirts are handmade, hand-dyed, hand-painted, hand-etc. so im going for uniqueness/quality versus quantity. 

---i really only need 100 shirts or so at first (thats a lot of work though lol and im looking into the pfd shirts by alternative apparel) 
---i am planning on buying maybe 2 or 3 dozen smalls, 2 dozen mediums, 2 dozen large (so many smalls because im selling to young teenagers)
---waterbased ink (looking into union inks)
---a printing press (used, planning on 4 color or if i can find a really good deal on 6-color)
---screens (i think high count b/c of waterbased ink, i think i read on forums something like 210 or something like that works well?)
---squeegees
---dye (dharma trading co)
---stuff to make self exposure kit
---emulsion (waterbase ink specific?)
---transfer paper
---if i can a heating press (would love to do foiling and patches and stuff, and can cure my shirts with this)
---any additional cleaning things i need
---dont want to buy a whole shop of stuff but dont want to skimp either. 
---o yeah maybe a sewing machine (a cheap walmart one)
---a graphics pen (?)


thanks everyone
-austin


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

so do yall think that is a good plan or a horrible plan or a super plan or a disgusting dumb plan? thanks


-austin


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

ieaturheart said:


> my to get list:
> please please edit and start making any corrections you see or suggest please it will help so much. im putting just about everything i can think of (so if you see something i dont need let me know), i prob have around 1000-1200 to start this off with. thanks for reading this im just trying to collect my money and figure out what i have versus what i need to i can start ordering stuff.
> 
> ps all my shirts are handmade, hand-dyed, hand-painted, hand-etc. so im going for uniqueness/quality versus quantity.
> ...


 
cool i can quote myself. was curious about my list i posted and also any suggestions for cleaning up in my garage? will waterbased inks make it different? i guess to add to my list or edit it, do you think i should get a graphics pen?

-im having this biggest slow down and problems with my art. 
-i draw it on white paper. 
-then i put tracing paper over it and copy it. 
-then i scratch all on the back of the tracing paper with a pencil.
-then i retrace my lines in order to transfer an image onto nice inking paper.
-then i ink the picture. then i erase the pencil markings. then i scan it. 
-and then it looks not so pretty so i clean it up to the best of knowledge. 
-then i was planning on retracing with a graphics pen so all my lines were nice smooth graphic lines. 
-then i would seperate each layer. 
-most likely i was planning on when digitally tracing just starting a new layer everytime i traced a new color.
-then i would have 3 or 4 or whatever layers. 
-then printing each onto emulsion paper stuff. 
-does that sounds normal/correct in your opinion?

sorry that sounds so confusing and to post so many times consecutively. 


thanks again for reading this,
-austin


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

does anyone have any advice about my last post. thanks i would appreciate it. 


-austin


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## Rodney (Nov 3, 2004)

ieaturheart said:


> does anyone have any advice about my last post. thanks i would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> -austin


It's answered in your other thread. It's best to ask the question only in one place to consolidate the answers


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

yeah i figured that out sorry. i decided it would be better to start a new fresh thread that dealt more along the lines of what i was asking. sorry though.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

ok i will stick to two questions which i cannot find the answer to one. and the other im asking the source of the question. 


1. im just wondering, lewis (or anyone else) that is if i am using waterbased ink to silk screen umm a tree with. i would print the brown on then, [heat press or air dry], then do the green, [then heat press or air dry]? im a little confused on how that process works. 

2. does anyone else know how a patch like (posted in the first post of this thread) that can be made or something similar? if i print a larger copy do you think that i could possibly ask someone at hobby lobby or something of that nature?


thanks so much

-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> 1. im just wondering, lewis (or anyone else) that is if i am using waterbased ink to silk screen umm a tree with. i would print the brown on then, [heat press or air dry], then do the green, [then heat press or air dry]? im a little confused on how that process works.


There are a few ways to do this.

1) Register your prints on a print table, print the first colour, let it air dry, print the second, etc., cure it when finished (you almost certainly won't be doing this)
2) Print wet on wet on a carousel
3) Flash between colours on a carousel

Except in case one you don't air dry between colours, and you never cure (heat press) between colours. In general you don't move the print between colours, so air drying is only practical if you can layout a large amount of substrate at a time (like on a print table).

If you're doing things on the cheap at home you _might_ do things slightly differently: print one layer, set the shirt aside to dry, print the same one layer on the next shirt, etc. Then do the same for the second layer, etc. But in that case registering the prints is going to be difficult (or impossible for anything tightly registered) so it's something you'd avoid if at all possible.



ieaturheart said:


> 2. does anyone else know how a patch like (posted in the first post of this thread) that can be made or something similar?


Patches are an easy screenprint. I don't know what materials the example is made from, so I don't know how to mimic it exactly, but _*a*_ patch is dead easy (buy fabric, print fabric ).



ieaturheart said:


> if i print a larger copy do you think that i could possibly ask someone at hobby lobby or something of that nature?


I have no idea what that means


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

thanks lewis for the advice. 

by registering you mean lining my colors/layers up right? 
so if i have lets say a 2+ station press and im only printing 15 shirts at a time lets say, then cant i leave each shirt on and print on one. rotate to the other shirt then print the same layer on that one. wait (i have no idea how long, but i think until if you rub it gently with fabric and nothing comes off) and then print the second layer on the first shirt rotate and print the second on that one and so on...then start with two new shirts again and while those are air drying i can use the heat press to make the two before (that are finished) washfast?

also if i am letting them sit to air dry for 10 minutes or something wont my waterbased ink begin to set in the screen or no? if so should i purchase a flash dryer or heating gun, etc in order to speed up the drying process?

that is how i think i will do it if that works. ok i see what you mean by the patch and yes it does sound easier then i thought. what i meant by hobby lobby is it is a craft store in the u.s. and i was thinking about taking them a picture of the patch and see if they know, but i doubt they will. lol. 
thanks again for all the help. i appreciate it. 


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> by registering you mean lining my colors/layers up right?


Yep.



ieaturheart said:


> so if i have lets say a 2+ station press and im only printing 15 shirts at a time lets say, then cant i leave each shirt on and print on one. rotate to the other shirt then print the same layer on that one. wait (i have no idea how long, but i think until if you rub it gently with fabric and nothing comes off) and then print the second layer on the first shirt rotate and print the second on that one and so on...then start with two new shirts again and while those are air drying i can use the heat press to make the two before (that are finished) washfast?


Basically... no. If you did things that way (waiting for the shirts to airdry) the ink would dry in your screen.

Instead (with the two station, 15 shirts to print scenario) you would either:

1) Print wet on wet - just keep printing, unloading, etc. without waiting for the inks to dry
2) Use a flash unit to dry the ink between layers (requires an investment in said equipment)
3) Not do more than one colour prints
4) Print 15 copies of the first layer, wash out your screen and let the shirts dry, load them again and print 15 copies of the second layer.

Option 3 & 4 are both pretty stupid - no-one would ever do option 4 in a production environment (even a small home production environment), though I have heard of hobbyists (at a three shirts on Etsy level) doing things like that. If the artwork needs to be registered it's unbearably impractical though, even if you're doing small runs. That said, it can work if the two colours can go more or less wherever.



ieaturheart said:


> if i am letting them sit to air dry for 10 minutes or something wont my waterbased ink begin to set in the screen or no?


Yes.



ieaturheart said:


> if so should i purchase a flash dryer or heating gun, etc in order to speed up the drying process?


If you can afford it, yes, it's a good / important piece of equipment to have. Otherwise, you'll need to work out ways to work around it (not impossible - just might limit your ability to print on dark shirts for example).


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

Solmu said:


> 1) Print wet on wet - just keep printing, unloading, etc. without waiting for the inks to dry


what are the disadvantages, if any? i assume the advantages are not needing a flash dryer?


Solmu said:


> 2) Use a flash unit to dry the ink between layers (requires an investment in said equipment)


most likely what i will end up doing


Solmu said:


> 3) Not do more than one colour prints
> 4) Print 15 copies of the first layer, wash out your screen and let the shirts dry, load them again and print 15 copies of the second layer.


yup first thing i learned from the toothless guy at the silk screening shop is this something idiotic to do. 


Solmu said:


> (not impossible - just might limit your ability to print on dark shirts for example).


why are dark shirts any different? i know that sometimes its hard to print on dark with waterbased inks but iv read some inks work just fine. is it because more ink is needed for printing on dark shirts?


++also in regards to the heating press and an ballpark 15-20 shirts runs. would i print all my shirts and all layers then press them once they have semi air dryed or do you wait a few hours then use the heating press on them?

thanks for the help Lewis.


-austin


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## Solmu (Aug 15, 2005)

ieaturheart said:


> what are the disadvantages [of wet on wet printing], if any?


It's got a steeper learning curve.



ieaturheart said:


> i assume the advantages are not needing a flash dryer?


Yep, which is both a cost and a speed benefit.



ieaturheart said:


> why are dark shirts any different?


Because you are more likely to need to flash an underbase.



ieaturheart said:


> ++also in regards to the heating press and an ballpark 15-20 shirts runs. would i print all my shirts and all layers then press them once they have semi air dryed or do you wait a few hours then use the heating press on them?


Best to wait until the ink is dry to avoid any smearing, which fortunately doesn't take long. You can speed that part with a hair dryer or similar if you want.


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## ieaturheart (Apr 2, 2007)

perfect i understand. umm well since im creating so few shirts at a time as opposed to 100s shirts being printed maybe i should look into getting a little cheap flash dryer. i can get for like 100 bucks i imagine. actually im just guessing.

thanks again for the reply and help Lewis. 


-austin


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## TamperDesigns (May 24, 2010)

Hey, just thought I would mention - a good way to get an overall grasp of the process and how things are done is to jump on youtube and watch the instructional videos on there (there are literally plenty). It will give you a great over view of how things work


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