# Digitizing Problems or Sewout?



## Pyroshouse (Mar 4, 2008)

Hello, guys just got into the embroidery thing, bought a used Btother 1210 had it tuned up, greased and in general all kinds of maintenance it hadnt seen in a while. 

So I have a desing that I made for a customer in Wilcom embroidery studio 1, Did a jacket back sewed it out with only minor issues with tensin here and there, keeping the back tight. But shrank the work down to a size suitable for a hat or pocket, pulled some of the detail and designed to create the background in one complete tatamie, but I keep having problems with the out line not matching. I have posted the two different versions any advice would be greatly appreciated, my problems are this.

Equipment
brother 1210
Hat driver running a hooptech ems frame(i don't have the frame tensioner)
Hat Flex Fit six panel mid profile

Problems

Black out line satin stitch around the green tatamie background, will strech high missing the top of the hat and then being inside the edges of the sides and high at the bottom. I have reimported it into wilcom and everything matches. Anyway any help would be great.
I will happily send the dsts of both to anyone willing to look at them, just email me at [email protected] and the L

Thank you in advance


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## THX1138 (Aug 17, 2008)

The design needs to be digitized for the hat. It works going from the hat to a flat but not the other way. 

Here are some tips, 

For hats, embroider from the bottom up, center out. Also, you only get about 2" high. Make sure the arm is not pushing on the hat crown.


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## Rags (Apr 21, 2007)

Also, consider that even though Wilcom has a great stitch processor, scaling a design to that extreme will always require a close look depending on the level of complexity. More often than not, a little editing is needed.

THX1138 is on the money with the tips for caps. Also make sure you've framed it up tight as a drum and arent seeing distortion due to the cap material moving around too much. On outlines, don't be surprised if you have to edit the design to where on screen it is off registration but on the machine it lines right up. The cap curvature and nature of the process creates these little things that have to be overcome, ignoring what you see sewn out flat or on your monitor.

Good luck with it!


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## Pyroshouse (Mar 4, 2008)

Ok, I didn't have the emb file set to center out so thank you there, as far as hooping the thing, I pull like h#ll to get the thing to be tight, is there a special backing I should use besides cut away or tearaway, I watched one post on utube the guy hooping used the standard brother frame and stated it didn't even need stabilizer for hats? So were are you guys on that.

I posted a screen shot of what I am doing with it now I did start from the beginning and completetly redigitize in sperate pieces the way you see on the screen ording Green Black and then buckle eyes teeth, then the lettering last.

First Question is should I creat an interior fill of the black outline to so that the green fill is smaller that the outline or should the out line stradle the edge of the fill the way it does now?

What else?


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## ggraphics (Nov 20, 2008)

On caps, if there is no structure we use backing for sure. For structured caps it just depends - high stitch count we use backing. One other tip you could use is to make your black outline thicker by upping the compensation, or by other means. We also will move objects in the digitizing software according to how it stitches. This may be cheating, but it is an easy fix. Good tips from everybody.


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## skoconnell88 (Apr 3, 2009)

You will most likely need to re-digitize the design. If you change design size more than 20% (up or down) you will likely have problems. This seems to be a consistent recommendation with digitizers I know.

Susan


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## THX1138 (Aug 17, 2008)

Send it to Digitizing service for the embroidery industry worldwide. Stock designs available. Digitize designs for most commercial embroidery formats. Corporate logos to fashion embroidery. Free consultations. and tell Jay to change it for a cap. It will save you a lot of problems.


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## Pyroshouse (Mar 4, 2008)

All due respect that wont help me in any way, you don't learn haveing someone else fix the problem.

But I will gladly take any help available that helps me learn.


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## Madrod (Jun 27, 2007)

can you post a picture of your sewout so we can see what it looks like. when sewing a lot of stitches in a small area you have to remember the fabric is being pushed and pulled.
when i digitize a circle on a design it looks more oval shaped in the file. the higher the stitch density the more push pull compensation.


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## Rags (Apr 21, 2007)

Looks to me like part of your challenge is the large fill area being a little off to the side on the cap. Many of our responses were taking a guess at it being centered on the front of the cap.

If your fill stitches are running in the same direction as the fabric, changing the stitch angle might tighten things up a bit. Also, it's hard to tell from your images but if your satin stitches on the pipe and in the hat detail on the design are getting long - say more than 7mm - the movement of the machine could be causing issues. Which brings up another subject, have you tried bumping the machine speed down at all?


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## Pyroshouse (Mar 4, 2008)

My first response was actually the speed slowed it down the slowest speed possible.

Should I make the fill area and interior fill of the outline and then sewout the pipe and face last ie seperating them from the face and the out line. My problem on the sewout is the outline is sewing high on the tatamie and the face is line up with each part which is really freaking me out. Its like the machine moves the entire file up an 1/8 of an inch after it sews the fill area. I thought it was becouse the hat was warping the design but shouldn't the tatamie and the outline both warp?

I will happily post a photo of the sewout on friday, but I will be in fort worth, thursday, for the printwear show. Many thanks for all the help.


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## Rags (Apr 21, 2007)

Ah! I suggest you take one of the sewouts to FW with you. Drop by the Wilcom booth and someone will point you in the right direction. I don't know who's working the show this year but they always have experienced people working the floor.

Have a great time at the show!


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