# Foam Pulling through stitching on puff embroidery



## crazy stitches (Dec 3, 2008)

We sent a design and had it digitized for puff embroidery. We did a test stitch on fabric and it did fine but when we did a test stitch on a throw-away cap the foam is pulling through the stitching. I'm thinking maybe the foam wasn't flush against the cap when it started but I'm hoping someone has some quick tips so I don't burn through a dozen caps trying to get it right.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

I'm not sure what you mean by "pulling through the stitches".
Is it sticking out around the edges or all over the design?


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## crazy stitches (Dec 3, 2008)

The edges are fine...it is pulling through the satin stitch. It's spotty....a handful of spots where you can see a little bit of the foam pulling through.


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

I have the same problem. I have digitized a couple logos and doubled the density of stitches (normally from 55 to 110) and it seems to pop through randomly. I have also tried the Hair dryer trick to shrink the foam, but the 3d still looks rough. I thought about trying to stitch the logo and then turn around a restitch the logo just a little wider. I look at a baseball cap and the 3d logo looks perfectly smooth, but not mine.


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

Hi Troy,
When I do it, we run it through a t-shirt conveyer drier. It probably 330 for about a minute. A paint stripper or a gun that's used for shink wrap would also be hot enough. You can go over it a second time, but it will tamp down the puff even more. Try adjusting tension also. There is a file on the Stitch ERA group that I posted, that has been run in production on a six head on about 4 dozen caps successfully. You can try if you want. Also note that on some puff that you see, the caps were done before the material was sewn together


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## TurtleNick (Apr 5, 2007)

crazy stitches said:


> We did a test stitch on fabric and it did fine but when we did a test stitch on a throw-away cap the foam is pulling through the stitching. I'm hoping someone has some quick tips


To Clarify, After You Stitch, then Lift the Foam you have "hairs" of foam sticking out. Correct? If this is your concern, here a simple fix. Hit it with a HEAT GUN & the FOAM HAIRS shrink back into the Embroidery. Just us a standard heat gun from any building supply house.


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## lizziemaxine (Nov 14, 2007)

WillWork4TShirts said:


> To Clarify, After You Stitch, then Lift the Foam you have "hairs" of foam sticking out. Correct? If this is your concern, here a simple fix. Hit it with a HEAT GUN & the FOAM HAIRS shrink back into the Embroidery. Just us a standard heat gun from any building supply house.


You can do this but you run the risk of melting the thread and having an even bigger mess.


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## crazy stitches (Dec 3, 2008)

I will try pre-heating the foam. When you mention adjusting the tension, do you mean increase or decrease? When I look at the spots where the foam is coming through, it looks like the foam was cut by the thread.


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

zoom_monster said:


> Hi Troy,
> When I do it, we run it through a t-shirt conveyer drier. It probably 330 for about a minute. A paint stripper or a gun that's used for shink wrap would also be hot enough. You can go over it a second time, but it will tamp down the puff even more. Try adjusting tension also. There is a file on the Stitch ERA group that I posted, that has been run in production on a six head on about 4 dozen caps successfully. You can try if you want. Also note that on some puff that you see, the caps were done before the material was sewn together


Thanks I will try all that.


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

The more I look at it I feel like maybe it is a random thread bunched up. Any advise would be helpful.


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

zoom_monster said:


> Hi Troy,
> When I do it, we run it through a t-shirt conveyer drier. It probably 330 for about a minute. A paint stripper or a gun that's used for shink wrap would also be hot enough. You can go over it a second time, but it will tamp down the puff even more. Try adjusting tension also. There is a file on the Stitch ERA group that I posted, that has been run in production on a six head on about 4 dozen caps successfully. You can try if you want. Also note that on some puff that you see, the caps were done before the material was sewn together


Could you help me find the Stitch era group so I can find this test file? Thanks


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## TurtleNick (Apr 5, 2007)

lizziemaxine said:


> You can do this but you run the risk of melting the thread and having an even bigger mess.


If you are using Rayon threads, NO CHANCE OF MELTING. You can run a soldering iron across Rayon & it will not melt < That is how some Patches are make w/Soldering Gun.

Polyester thread has much lower melting point. Use the Heat Gun like a HAIR DRYER... Just wave if over the embroidery until it Shrivels back into the stitches, then STOP. If U are experiencing Melting, instruct ur employees to do it with eyes open!!


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## thutch15 (Sep 8, 2008)

I just did a quick test and seem to have good results with decreasing tension and the holding a hair dryer on high right on it for about 30 seconds (did not want to fire up the dryer)


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## zoom_monster (Sep 20, 2006)

thutch15 said:


> Could you help me find the Stitch era group so I can find this test file? Thanks


 Troy, Go to:

StitchEraUniversal : STITCH ERA UNIVERSAL Embroidery Software

There are certainly many techniques. You can find many tutorials on the web. Try them all and pick what works for you.

Ian


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## Olvert Ortega (Oct 26, 2009)

I have been working 98% on flat embroidery but want to do some 3d embrodiery as I am growing the bizz.. I have a Tajima machine and using the Wilcom Digitizer.. But many questions in my head to get better results... What is the "common " gap used to cut the foam?? I use Satin Stitch and a gap of 0.3mm and the problem is the residues when I tear the foam. did not try less than that yet... And some time when I embroider caps I run a same figure in the bottom To stabilize the area where the foam will be placed..IS THAT Necessary??.. I mean... that's how I tried.. The heat gun is cool and I will try it... but can somebody give more and specific tips?.. Will be appreciated!..


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## binki (Jul 16, 2006)

we use a heat gun. it helps to have colored foam as well so it matches the thread.


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## digitizewedo (Nov 2, 2010)

Hi

I use foam alot and you cannot use regular text for foam.. 

A) the denisty should be 120 for satin stitch when foam is used
B) You need to cap the ends so the foam cannot escape out 

Sometimes script fonts will do okay, I punch my own designs and have done multicolored designs using foam, I like craft foam 4 to 6 mm , as I can apply it on the go. 

Best of luck


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## jpat (Feb 12, 2008)

My software has a normal density of .016 in inches and .40 in metric. I double whatever the standard density is and never go beyond 1/2 " for my satin width.


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## Olvert Ortega (Oct 26, 2009)

jpat said:


> My software has a normal density of .016 in inches and .40 in metric. I double whatever the standard density is and never go beyond 1/2 " for my satin width.


THANKS SO MUCH... i have been using 0.3mm so I will try 0.2 in order to double it...


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## Grama669 (Mar 18, 2015)

Hello everyone,
New to your site.
I'm doing puff right now and would like to know about the Stitch era group also.
We have a new 6 head machine and I'm still new at learning it.
Certain letters are puckering out badly.
Grama


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