# Exposure with Halogen work light



## fender967

I have gathered that the best way to make an exposure unit for under a few hundred dollars is to get a 1000 watt metal halide light with a ballast. This is still a couple hundred though. I have read that people use halogen lights and they work as well. Would something like this work if I were to put my screens on the floor with a piece of glass over the transparency to hold it flat and one of these two lights 21" - 24" above?

Northern Industrial 1000 Watt Twin Head Halogen Tripod Light | Free-Standing Work Lights | Northern Tool + Equipment
Northern Industrial 500 Watt Portable Halogen Worklight | Free-Standing Work Lights | Northern Tool + Equipment

I only need to expose my designs once and then will reuse the same ones over and over. I only suggest those because I could simply plug them in and use them. Does anyone know what king of fixture I would need to use a light bulb such as this:

Single End Halogen


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## jlee199

If time is not important the halogin lights will work fine. I made exposure units using the halogen lamp and another one using flourecent lights. 

The halogen takes between 18 and 20 minutes to expose, depending on the emulsion and screen mesh, but it produces good detail. The flourecent takes about 4 1/2 minutes. One of these days I'm going to break-down and make a unit using the metal halide. But right now the time factor isn't such a big factor.

John


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## splathead

Here is an idea I have used in the past. Some pvc, couple of C clamps and $5 later you have an exposure stand. 13 minutes exposure for my emulsion.


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## treadhead

I hang a 500W halogen work lamp I got from Lowes about 18 inches above a piece of foam that I put the screen on and then a piece of glass on top of my film. I expose for 5 minutes and wash out the screens immediately. So far...so good.


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## fender967

Very nice. So would it be better/quicker to use two 500 watt halogens or would it produce a better image if I just used one? I am starting a line of shirts so I only need to expose these once. As long as it works, it doesnt matter if it takes an hour for each.


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## treadhead

I can only assume that 2 500 watt lights would work faster...but haven't tried it myself.


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## RichardGreaves

fender967 said:


> Very nice. So would it be better/quicker to use two 500 watt halogens or would it produce a better image if I just used one?


Only where the light overlaps. Where they don't overlap you would only get single exposure.

Two lights from, two different directions, will undercut your positive and choke the final line.


Remember to remove the safety glass that filters UV energy to protect your curtains, upholstery and eyes!


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## Uncle John

The most important thing in exposing a screen is UV Light, if you sit it in the sun it works just as well. Google the UV rating of different lights, we have found that black light clear florescent are the best. Hope it helps, John


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## kylerogers

There is a mathematical formula to placing a light source the ideal distance. I think 21" is like an all purpose general distance for a t-shirt screen.

Two lights may expose faster, but I do think that would be recommended. There is a reason why the high dollar exposure units are designed the way they are.

You want one light source in the middle. The more light sources you have the more light is going to get at the image area and weaken any fine lines.




fender967 said:


> Very nice. So would it be better/quicker to use two 500 watt halogens or would it produce a better image if I just used one? I am starting a line of shirts so I only need to expose these once. As long as it works, it doesnt matter if it takes an hour for each.


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## kylerogers

A guy I know says he uses the boxes that his frames come in as a stand. He cuts a hole in the top. Puts the frame inside the box with piece of glass and sits a worklight on top of the hole.

He claims it works fine.


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## NaturalUnnatural

I am so confused!!

I've been researching this for what seems like ages and i've come to the conclusion that

- 1 light source is better than 2
- but not as good as a box with a whole bunch of fluorescents (however expensive and harder to build)

I am however confused as i have read so many different viewpoints/opinions/discoveries

The thing that worries me the most is that one guy selling a exposure unit using 2 500w halogen lights on ebay mentioned "Halogen lamps also give off a lot of heat, this means that extremely prolonged exposures (of over 10 minutes) may result in heat build up which in extreme cases may 
damage the acetate sheet or possibly even the screen.Feedback from customers has indicated that exposure times are usually around 3 minutes or less on average for most common emulsions. Therefore overheating is not an issue for most users of normal emulsions."

However another guy selling something similar on ebay (but with just 1 1000w halogen light) says that screens take 20 minutes to expose. Surely that would be a bit risky fire wise?

So i don't really know what to do. 

I need:

- Exposure unit that can take upto A1 frames (though will likely be using A3 size more frequently)
- Something that is low cost
- Or easy to make with basic tools that isn't really difficult/time consuming to source parts (I am in the UK)
- Won't burn my house down (very important)
- Preferably something that can be disassembled easily as i have limited storage space

What do you think? Is their a solution out there for me do you think?

I really hope you can help!

Many Thanks, Megan


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## cookiesa

How about a second hand bank of fluro tubes (maybe you could source the holder from a demolition yard, the commercial fluro units, well over here at least have 4 or more tubes, would they be big enough for you?)

Then you may be able to speak nicely to a sparky who (assuming it is safe to do so) could add a standard leed to it for you


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## frankiko

500 watt halogen = $10
pvc + joints = $10
time to assemble/setup: = 30 minutes

now you have your exposure unit set and ready.


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## splathead

NaturalUnnatural said:


> I am so confused!!
> 
> 
> I am however confused as i have read so many different viewpoints/opinions/discoveries
> 
> The thing that worries me the most is that one guy selling a exposure unit using 2 500w halogen lights on ebay mentioned "Halogen lamps also give off a lot of heat, this means that extremely prolonged exposures (of over 10 minutes) may result in heat build up which in extreme cases may
> damage the acetate sheet or possibly even the screen.
> 
> However another guy selling something similar on ebay (but with just 1 1000w halogen light) says that screens take 20 minutes to expose. Surely that would be a bit risky fire wise?


You can't compare 2500w lights to 1000w lights. 1000w does not get as hot as fast as 2500w.

if you are looking for the least expensive, most compact solution, then look at the picture I posted in the post above.

If you are looking for the quickest solution, then fluorescent  will expose quicker and also be cooler than halogen.


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## NaturalUnnatural

splathead said:


> You can't compare 2500w lights to 1000w lights. 1000w does not get as hot as fast as 2500w.
> 
> if you are looking for the least expensive, most compact solution, then look at the picture I posted in the post above.
> 
> If you are looking for the quickest solution, then fluorescent will expose quicker and also be cooler than halogen.


That does sound like the best option for me.

Do you add extra bits of pipe to increase the height? I'd be doing a1 screens sometimes. 

How does the lamp attach to the pipes?

Do you use 500w or 1000w?

Thanks for your help!


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## frankiko

500 watt halogen lamp exposes in 12 minutes with my emulsion.
the height from bulb down to the surface of my screen is 20 inches (i can always add or reduce the height by cutting or adding the pvc legs. but 20 inches is working perfect to me.)

check SPLATHEAD's photo at the top. it's the same setup i have.


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## splathead

NaturalUnnatural said:


> That does sound like the best option for me.
> 
> Do you add extra bits of pipe to increase the height? I'd be doing a1 screens sometimes.
> 
> How does the lamp attach to the pipes?
> 
> Do you use 500w or 1000w?
> 
> Thanks for your help!


I use 500w. With my emulsion, it takes 13 minutes.

The lamp attaches to the pipe with 'c' clamps.

I am not familiar with the size of A1. There are formulas on how high the light should be based on the screen size. I don't have those numbers, however. 

If you use the pvc stand, and you need several heights, then you could just substitute the 2 upright pipes when needed.


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## MotoskinGraphix

Lowes also carries an 800 watt halogen single light. Now talking about heat. How hot a temperature are we talking about. If I created an array of say four 500 watters would that be enough heat to cure plastisol inks?


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## NaturalUnnatural

Thanks guys that is great, a trip to the diy store soon I hope.

Is there a best type of foam to use under the frame to support it from thexweight of the glass?

What thickness of glass is best? I'd hate it to shatter with the heat or just be too light to do it's job.

Thanks again!





Oh yes, and do I take the glass off the front of the lamp or just leave it?
I'm quite excited now I feel a bit less overwhelmed!


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## splathead

The foam is not there to support the glass. The glass is not that heavy. I don't use foam at all for mine. I just set up the unit on a black surface to prevent light reflection. My guess is the foam is used fill in the screen on the ink side to prevent reflections, but I don't know for sure. If you use some, make sure it's black.

Glass should be 1/8 inch. Like the kind you find in picture frames. I tape the edges to prevent cuts.

Yes, remove the glass cover off the lamp.


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## frankiko

500 watt warms up but not hot enough to break the glass or scorch the screen.

i use foam to help push the screen to the glass just so the film in between is totally flat on top of the screen to avoid undercut when exposing.


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## EC prints

fender967 said:


> I have gathered that the best way to make an exposure unit for under a few hundred dollars is to get a 1000 watt metal halide light with a ballast. This is still a couple hundred though. I have read that people use halogen lights and they work as well. Would something like this work if I were to put my screens on the floor with a piece of glass over the transparency to hold it flat and one of these two lights 21" - 24" above?
> 
> Northern Industrial 1000 Watt Twin Head Halogen Tripod Light | Free-Standing Work Lights | Northern Tool + Equipment
> Northern Industrial 500 Watt Portable Halogen Worklight | Free-Standing Work Lights | Northern Tool + Equipment
> 
> I only need to expose my designs once and then will reuse the same ones over and over. I only suggest those because I could simply plug them in and use them. Does anyone know what king of fixture I would need to use a light bulb such as this:
> 
> Single End Halogen


 Alright Heres the bag guys Halogen will work the brighter the better It also would not hurt to have a small fan blowing on the light to disperse the heat given off by the light. As far as time start at around 6 to 7 min and go up or down from their if you don't capture the image expose it longer. as far as distince goes 18 to 21 inches should be good. For the guys who havent started it yet here is how it shoud be bilt. First start at the floor with a halogen lamp faceing up get a pice of glass a little bigger then your screen make it into a table around 20 inches high place, and it above your lamp. Put your screen on the glass with your file inbetween he glass & your screen. Once your screen is on the glass place a blanket over your screen. Then place some weights on the blanket the weightshould b around 30 lbsevenly distribuited over the inside of the screen. This will help you achieve detail and you will get fewer pinholes.after you place the weight expose it around 7 min and you should b good.
Let me know how it goes


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## buy4now1

I too use a 500 watt halogen light ( $ 7) about 20" above the glass. To reduce the heat, I place a small fan off to the side to blow on the glass to prevent over heating.


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## SOBER

if your going to take the time do this ...you might as well build a 1000 watt metal halide..i used to use the 500 watt halo also ,but i got plans and ideas here and build mine for cheap the bulb and ballast...$100.00 shipped...the 1/4 in. clear plate glass with no u.v inhibitors 30x40 was like $35.00...and some misc..wood $35.00.
and now i can burn great screens clean,crisp halftones...its the best...i burn screens in 60 seconds...compared to 13 min..with 500 watter
let me know if you to try this out..


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## ambitious

SOBER said:


> if your going to take the time do this ...you might as well build a 1000 watt metal halide..i used to use the 500 watt halo also ,but i got plans and ideas here and build mine for cheap the bulb and ballast...$100.00 shipped...the 1/4 in. clear plate glass with no u.v inhibitors 30x40 was like $35.00...and some misc..wood $35.00.
> and now i can burn great screens clean,crisp halftones...its the best...i burn screens in 60 seconds...compared to 13 min..with 500 watter
> let me know if you to try this out..


Do you mind sharing your plans?
Also where did you buy your bulb and ballast?
Would really appreciate if you shared your plans, there's lots of people wanting to do this, but no plans on this board to get started...


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## SOBER

ambitious said:


> Do you mind sharing your plans?
> Also where did you buy your bulb and ballast?
> Would really appreciate if you shared your plans, there's lots of people wanting to do this, but no plans on this board to get started...


i sure can....this is all you need...and i just got an epson 1400....i've been using cheap office depot vellum and overhead transparencies for the halftones..which is not good to do but when your low budget it has to work...lol
but now i got an epson so once i get that set-up i should be doing even better...here's the spot for the bulb and ballast for $100.00
1000 Watt - Metal Halide - 4000K - Clear - MH1000W/U - TCP #46370 Light Bulb
Sola #E-871-W-211 - 120, 208, 240 & 277 Volt - 1000 Watt Magnetic Metal Halide Ballast Light Bulb
Mogul Base HID Socket Light Bulb
here's the set-up....
     

 
just like this....let me know


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## midwaste

That looks pretty sweet man. How long do you let the bulb warm up before opening the shutter? What emulsion are you using for 60 secs?

I think I can snag a used light from a gymnasium for nothing.. Does the bulb need to be the 4000K or does it matter?


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## treadhead

I use a pretty crude but effective setup using a 500W Halogen work light I got from Lowes. It hangs about 18" above my screen which sits on top of a large sponge. I cover the screen & film with a large piece of glass and expose for 8 minutes. I use Ulano QTX emulsion and coat each side once.


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## RichardGreaves

*DISTANCE*
The distance measure is to make sure the UV energy falls evenly on the stencil. Too close and you will get more UV energy in the center of the stencil.
Exposure FAQ Screen Making Products how to measure exposure

*HEAT*
Remember, even though you may be putting 500 watts into the lamp, most of it is generating invisible infra red energy and white light for reading or working - NOT UV energy. UV energy is just a handy byproduct for screenmakers

This means it is common fore the surface temperature of the quartz glass to be greater than 1,000 degrees F.

What is hotter, a burning wooden match, or a wood fire at the beach? They are the same temperature, but beach fire generates more actual heat.

Remember to remove the protective glass. It's there to stop UV energy from damaging your eyes.

Learn to make a step test to determine exposure time.
http://www.ulano.com/FAQ/FAQexposure.htm#Q1
Use a fast exposing SBQ emulsion to compensate for your low UV energy source.


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## MotoskinGraphix

I would think different substances burn and radiate heat at different temperatures.


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## ashamutt

splathead said:


> You can't compare 2500w lights to 1000w lights. 1000w does not get as hot as fast as 2500w.
> 
> if you are looking for the least expensive, most compact solution, then look at the picture I posted in the post above.
> 
> If you are looking for the quickest solution, then fluorescent will expose quicker and also be cooler than halogen.


Hey Joe....is this a good fluorescent??

Build Your Own Exposure Light Box Project Guide from Circuit Bridge

...or stupid?


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## RichardGreaves

ashamutt said:


> ....is this a good fluorescent??


Full spectrum is all visible light. No UV energy.

Daylight has some UV, some. 

Use BL bulbs.

UV energy is commonly about 5% of the energy output of the lamp.

Those little bulbs are probably 15 or 20 watts and the useful energy will be very narrow. That's why you see banks of lamps that cover the entire stencil area.

This is why the most economical exposure unit is a quartz halogen bulb.


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## ambitious

SOBER said:


> i sure can....this is all you need...and i just got an epson 1400....i've been using cheap office depot vellum and overhead transparencies for the halftones..which is not good to do but when your low budget it has to work...lol
> but now i got an epson so once i get that set-up i should be doing even better...here's the spot for the bulb and ballast for $100.00
> 1000 Watt - Metal Halide - 4000K - Clear - MH1000W/U - TCP #46370 Light Bulb
> Sola #E-871-W-211 - 120, 208, 240 & 277 Volt - 1000 Watt Magnetic Metal Halide Ballast Light Bulb
> Mogul Base HID Socket Light Bulb
> here's the set-up....
> 
> 
> 
> just like this....let me know


 
Thanks Sober this was just what i was looking for, I really appreciate you sharing this, that theres a lot of us trying to do this. Very nice set up BTW


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## ashamutt

RichardGreaves said:


> .....Use BL bulbs.


BL....means "black light" , correct??

...my box calls for *four-*18" 15w T8 bulbs...
Can I use these?
F15T8/BL - 130369

or these....(less expensive)
http://www.lightingsupply.com/F15T8-BL.aspx

They say "BL"......

(these uv bulbs are not great for the eyes, right??)...but fast exposure time?



.....and this info is from : http://www.ryanrss.com/Exposureunits.html


*Over View of Screen Printing Exposure Units *The usual entry level exposure unit for screen printing is the flourescent tube, followed by the 1000W quartz light, and then the metal halide light. 
The Black Light tube has really improved the flourescent tube exposure light. With our emulsions our customers are exposing screens at under one minute.

* _*Flourescent Tube*_ The average screen printer that manufactures t-shirts , who's art work does not contain very fine lines or half tones, does very well with the flourescent tube exposure units. Fine lines and half tones can be done by under exposing the stencil, then doing a post exposure. The burn time for 40watt day lighter bulbs is around 5-6 minutes. *The black light bulb will be around 1 minute.*
* _*Quartz*_ The next step up from the flourescent tube is the 1000Wquartz, which does a very nice job on fine line detail, or half tones. Under exposure is usually not necessary. The burn time is around 5-6 minutes.
* _*Metal halide*_ is used by screen printing companies that primarily do very high end work or graphic printers that expose very large format screens.


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## SOBER

midwaste said:


> That looks pretty sweet man. How long do you let the bulb warm up before opening the shutter? What emulsion are you using for 60 secs?
> 
> I think I can snag a used light from a gymnasium for nothing.. Does the bulb need to be the 4000K or does it matter?


i let it warm up for like 10 min. just to be sure its all the way lit...i'm using ULANO qtx fast drying..the pink stuff....as far as 4000k...idk'..


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## midwaste

ashamutt said:


> BL....means "black light" , correct??
> 
> ...my box calls for *four-*18" 15w T8 bulbs...
> Can I use these?
> F15T8/BL - 130369
> 
> or these....(less expensive)
> F15T8/BL
> 
> They say "BL"......
> 
> (these uv bulbs are not great for the eyes, right??)...but fast exposure time?
> 
> 
> 
> .....and this info is from : Screen printing florescent,halogen,black light, or metal halide exposure units exposure units
> 
> 
> *Over View of Screen Printing Exposure Units *The usual entry level exposure unit for screen printing is the flourescent tube, followed by the 1000W quartz light, and then the metal halide light.
> The Black Light tube has really improved the flourescent tube exposure light. With our emulsions our customers are exposing screens at under one minute.
> 
> * _*Flourescent Tube*_ The average screen printer that manufactures t-shirts , who's art work does not contain very fine lines or half tones, does very well with the flourescent tube exposure units. Fine lines and half tones can be done by under exposing the stencil, then doing a post exposure. The burn time for 40watt day lighter bulbs is around 5-6 minutes. *The black light bulb will be around 1 minute.*
> * _*Quartz*_ The next step up from the flourescent tube is the 1000Wquartz, which does a very nice job on fine line detail, or half tones. Under exposure is usually not necessary. The burn time is around 5-6 minutes.
> * _*Metal halide*_ is used by screen printing companies that primarily do very high end work or graphic printers that expose very large format screens.



Yes, both of those tubes will work. BL does mean black light, but not the purple tubes they sell at the mall for raves and that.


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## ashamutt

midwaste said:


> Yes, both of those tubes will work. BL does mean black light, but not the purple tubes they sell at the mall for raves and that.


..ha ha , I'm too old to party!!

Are these the same too?...
Exposure Unit Unfiltered UV Blacklight Fluorescent Bulb Replacement
...just a little more expensive.

ok.... will these "unfiltered uv" lights hurt my eyes? ...meaning, I would NOT want to use these for a light box as well as an exposure unit. LOL(I know, dumb question)

The reason for me asking is ..... the four T8 tubes now in my exposure unit are *not *BL....so it takes 8 minutes or longer to expose...BUT I can also use it as a light box.
I would like to replace them with the BL T8 blubs so as to get a 1 minute exposure! 
(I do have a separate light box anyway, so it will not matter really.....just one more thing on my table!)...but, so much faster exposure!!!


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## midwaste

Yes, if you look at them too long, they will hurt your eyes, probably about the same as being out in the sun, though.
Are these that you are finding the same length as those in your current box? If you are exposing at 8 mins with regular fluorescents, I would be surprised if you are getting a good exposure.

Hell, Im happy with my current 500W halogen, which takes 10 mins, (and is still underexposed). From what I have read, halogens put out more UV than regular tubes..

I would research more if you expect to get 1 min exposures from BL tubes, you could be right, but I havent seen anything that fast with tubes of any sort.


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## ashamutt

midwaste said:


> Yes, if you look at them too long, they will hurt your eyes, probably about the same as being out in the sun, though.
> Are these that you are finding the same length as those in your current box?


yep...18" 



midwaste said:


> If you are exposing at 8 mins with regular fluorescents, I would be surprised if you are getting a good exposure.


....I am using the "emulsion sheets"
....but my stuff just shipped today from www.*silkscreeningsupplies*.com and I will soon be on the bumpy-road of "_learning to coat my own screens_".




midwaste said:


> I would research more if you expect to get 1 min exposures from BL tubes, you could be right, but I havent seen anything that fast with tubes of any sort.


 
From the web site...
http://www.ryanrss.com/Exposureunits.html
.... "_ *The black light bulb will be around 1 minute"*_

...maybe they are talking about something else.


Thanks for all of your help!


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## midwaste

It all depends on the emulsion you use, of course. That article mentions nothing about what emulsion they are using. 
For what it's worth, I am using Lawson (same company as Ryanrss.com) SBQ-510, and I just did an exposure test with a 500W halogen at 10 minutes, and it was nearly half underexposed. Based on my exposure test, I should have exposed for 23 mins. The sales rep told me it should be about double the time of Ulano QTX, which I burned at 5 mins.
However, I have burned LOTS of screens at 10 mins and had various problems, but overall, it worked. I am not a production screen shop...


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## NaturalUnnatural

What sort of screen size are people using for the exposure times quoted? I haven't worked at a1 size yet but I am assuming thst would take longer as the bulb is further away. What's the guess for a 500w halogen on that?

Ulano emulsion sound like the fastest as far as I can see from all your posts.

Thanks


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## midwaste

20x24 is the usual size. Typical max print size on that frame is about 13x19, which is pushing it. The rule of thumb I have always seen is distance to light source is the diagonal dimension of whatever frame you are using.
QTX is just what I started with, so I use it as a baseline. It has a high solid content so it exposes very fast. I haven't used many emulsions so I can't give you a great comparison.


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## RichardGreaves

*Re: Exposure with fluorescent lamps*



ashamutt said:


> BL....means "black light" , correct??


Yes. Check out this other page at that site with other BL bulbs. :

Blacklight Tubes F40/350BL Medium & Mini Bipin

And here is another site describing the UV energy spectrum lamps.
Blacklights



ashamutt said:


> The Black Light tube has really improved the flourescent tube exposure light. With our emulsions our customers are exposing screens at under one minute.
> 
> * _*Flourescent Tube*_ The average screen printer that manufactures t-shirts , who's art work does not contain very fine lines or half tones, does very well with the flourescent tube exposure units. Fine lines and half tones can be done by under exposing the stencil, then doing a post exposure. The burn time for 40watt day lighter bulbs is around 5-6 minutes. *The black light bulb will be around 1 minute.*


I have many friends at Lawson Screen & Digital & now Ryan, but I want them to document a fluorescent (undoubtedly 40 watt, not your 15 watt), and stencil combination that will expose a 21 Step Gray scale to a solid step 7 in 1 minute.

Exposure FAQ Screen Making Products how to measure exposure


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## RichardGreaves

*Looking at UV light*

Invisible UV radiation from any source will eventually damage your eyes. Hurt, implies it's OK.

Don't look at the sun, welder's spark, tanning sun lamp or any UV light. Period.

Sun glasses or UV protection glasses.

Check out *Part number 3TB97*
Eyewear, Safety, Clear, as an example
Grainger Industrial Supply


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## cookiesa

Just to throw another spanner in the works...

Today at an electrical supply store I was told you can also buy 400w (and other wattages) halide replacement globes that fit the 500w work lights... at around $130 Australian dollars this could be a way to upgrade the 500w halogen work light to a very fast exposure time that also requires minimal space!

Anyone tried this yet?


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## midwaste

Not sure how AU$ equates to US$ these days, but for $130US, you could buy a 1000W halide base, starter and bulb, and build a box for it.
The main thing to keep in mind for halides is that the exposure unit has to have a "shutter". That is, you have to isolate the screen from the light source, as halides take from 3-10 mins to get to full output. You can then open the "shutter" for 30-40-50 secs, whatever it takes. It would be very difficult to accurately judge exposure if you just flicked a halide on, as opposed to a 500W halogen.


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## Adam Becker

fender967 said:


> Would something like this work if I were to put my screens on the floor with a piece of glass over the transparency to hold it flat and one of these two lights 21" - 24" above?


Yeah. I think if you're doing it from above it's recommended to put a piece of foam on the ground that your screen hangs over to avoid any shadows jumping back at the emulsion. And this may sound silly, but I spent $9.00 dollars on my exposure light at Fred Meyer. Seriously. And I have exposed TONS of screens at this point, perfectly every time.


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## cookiesa

OK.... Whats Fred Meyer??? and what light? (I am guessing photography??)


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## bor3d123

i just built my exposure unit..like many of them i just used pvc and a work light...it also folds for storage...here's a pic of it


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## RichardGreaves

cookiesa said:


> Whats Fred Meyer???
> 
> and what light? (I am guessing photography??)


Fred Meyer is a 'blue collar' USA department store like Target or Walmart rather than Walton's or Myer. 

Photography lamps are designed NOT to emit invisible UV light that can shift an image.


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## midwaste

bor3d123 said:


> i just built my exposure unit..like many of them i just used pvc and a work light...it also folds for storage...here's a pic of it


Depending on how long you are exposing, the housing of those lights get HOT. You may end up melting that PVC around it a bit.


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## bor3d123

hahah i already exposed one screen..with it and it didn't get as hot as i thought it was going to get...20 min...that was probably too long in the first place but i just wanted to make sure my screen was burned all the way through


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## cookiesa

Ahh Thank you Mr Greaves

Just on your point about the photography light not emiting invisible light, this would be a good thing I am assuming fof possibly achieving better fine detail? (Of course we all know you shouldn't assume!)


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## midwaste

bor3d123 said:


> hahah i already exposed one screen..with it and it didn't get as hot as i thought it was going to get...20 min...that was probably too long in the first place but i just wanted to make sure my screen was burned all the way through


I use Ulano QX-1 and it takes me 18 minutes to expose to a solid 7 step with the same 500W.


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## RichardGreaves

cookiesa said:


> Just on your point about the photography light not emiting invisible light,
> 
> this would be a good thing I am assuming fof possibly achieving better fine detail?


No. Photo floods are bad choices.

Traditional camera film will react to UV energy which is why every camera's first accessory is a pink UV lens filter.

Diazo or SBQ sensitizer only reacts to invisible UV energy, NOT visible light - so incandescent photo floods are very, very poor screen making exposure lamps.


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## MeyersPrintShack

I have been using the 500w light just like in the picture for 2 years. It works great. If you go to YouTube they have step by step instructions on how to build the unit in the picture. I attached my light to the wall above my work bench.I only had problems when I tried to expose half tones. Good luck


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## cirillosp

These are by far the best plans for exposure unit i've seen. Thanks a lot!!!


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## jules824

I use a 500 Halogen light and I built a stand and it is underneath the glass top and I lay my screen on top of the glass so my image is tight to the screen and it takes 4 mins to process. Very simple and cheap.


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## drunkswithapress

I use Ulano QTX Emulsion and i have layed a black poster board on the floor. My light source is a 500W Halogen work light 24''s from my screen. I lay the screen on the posterboard,transparency on the screen,piece of glass on top of transparency and my burn time is 9 minutes. 

Work light- under $20 (lowes,menards,home depot)
Posterboard- $1
Piece of glass (larger than your screen)- FREE-$5

go to goodwill or a local thrift store and buy a large painting, framed print. take it apart and you have a large piece of glass for cheap. 

I have burned over 10 screens so far and now problems, just my impatience because the emulsion wasn't fully dry before i washed out.

good luck 

brandon


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## Solmu

drunkswithapress said:


> go to goodwill or a local thrift store and buy a large painting, framed print. take it apart and you have a large piece of glass for cheap.


A lot of framing glass has a coating to protect the work from UV, which is exactly what you _don't_ want from 'exposure unit' glass. If it's the sort of cheap frame you'd find at Goodwill I guess you'll be fine, but it's something to watch out for if you're not exposing as quickly as you'd expect.


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## RichardGreaves

*Glass bigger than frame*



drunkswithapress said:


> Piece of glass (larger than your screen)- FREE-$5


*BEWARE*
Glass larger than your frame will not press the positive against the stencil as well as glass smaller than the frame.


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## midwaste

*Re: Glass bigger than frame*



RichardGreaves said:


> *BEWARE*
> Glass larger than your frame will not press the positive against the stencil as well as glass smaller than the frame.


I had this problem. Sloppy epoxy drips and runs around the edges make the screen stand off. 
Get one piece of glass that is smaller than the inner square of the frame, and one that is bigger to set on top for weight.


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## Greatzky

Would a High Pressure Sodium Light work? I hear talk about metal halide, but I'm not sure if anyone asked about HPS. I have an HPS light lying around and wasn't sure if that would work.. It probably doesn't throw off as much heat as a Metal halide I would guess?

-Scott Lewis
Silk Screen Expressions


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## Leadfoot

splathead said:


> Here is an idea I have used in the past. Some pvc, couple of C clamps and $5 later you have an exposure stand. 13 minutes exposure for my emulsion.


So where do I get the halogen light fixture for this build? The cheapest I found at HD was $28...I know they are cheaper. Plus it had a hood and looked more like ready to install outside. The one in the photo looks like it is bare basic. I can't wait to build this!
Thanks.

And do you have a photo of the top?


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## midwaste

If you have a Menards near you, they frequently have basic units on sale for $10. Take it off the stand, and remove the front "cage" guard and plate with the glass in it.
Here's one for 12.99 from Harbor Freight. If you have a HF nearby, you can probably get it for half that with a coupon.


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## Leadfoot

midwaste said:


> If you have a Menards near you, they frequently have basic units on sale for $10. Take it off the stand, and remove the front "cage" guard and plate with the glass in it.
> Here's one for 12.99 from Harbor Freight. If you have a HF nearby, you can probably get it for half that with a coupon.


Don't have either of those in our area...would this work, looks about the same:

500 watt work light

It says it has tempered glass, is that good or will that not work?


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## midwaste

Yes, that is the same thing. Don't worry about the glass, you will need to remove it anyway.


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## badassjohn5

newby here. just built a light box from a wooden crate i got from work. 500 watt work light in the bottom of the box. from the box to the glass it is 16 inches. going to do my first exposure tonight. just wanting to know if i should cool the box in someway? i could potentially add a small computer fan on either side to to push out hot air and pull in cooler ambient air. the glass is sealed to the top of the box. any helpful thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


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## cookiesa

I have mine setup on a desk and have a pedestal fan going on low while I'm burning screens as they get quite hot. For my smaller screens (I print on baby wear) my glass is from a picture frame and is only thin so I wouldn't like to get it too hot or it may crack, plus it makes handling it after burning easier if you can touch it!


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## RichardGreaves

Quartz halogen tungsten filament lamps heat to 1,000F to keep the tungsten vaporized. Quartz glass is needed to withstand the high heat.


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## littleweird

Anybody have any time range using the PVC/Halogen set up and Chromaline...


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## Zman411

frankiko said:


> 500 watt halogen lamp exposes in 12 minutes with my emulsion.
> the height from bulb down to the surface of my screen is 20 inches (i can always add or reduce the height by cutting or adding the pvc legs. but 20 inches is working perfect to me.)


Now I am using 2 500 watt lights and burning in 3 min


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## littleweird

littleweird said:


> Anybody have any time range using the PVC/Halogen set up and Chromaline...


In case anybody comes across this in the future or cares regarding the above set up...

Chromaline Dual Cure Emulsion
Scoop coated once on shirt side
Single 500 watt halogen light 
20" above screen 
10 minutes

your mileage may vary


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## pukingdeserthobo

Zman411 said:


> Now I am using 2 500 watt lights and burning in 3 min


 whats the distance ?


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## Zman411

I have 18 inches from top of the light to the bottom of the screen


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## Torkin

Here is a video with everything you need to know to build a lamp stand. It really helped me. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL5AW-VVNgo[/media]


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## KillaKeem

Greatzky said:


> Would a High Pressure Sodium Light work? I hear talk about metal halide, but I'm not sure if anyone asked about HPS. I have an HPS light lying around and wasn't sure if that would work.. It probably doesn't throw off as much heat as a Metal halide I would guess?
> 
> -Scott Lewis
> Silk Screen Expressions



I have used a 150 watt hps to expose my screen.. takes an hour to fully expose, but it does work


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## Artifist

Hi afternoon, I need help and this is my set-up:

=A 500W Halogen Lamp (118mm/60hz/220V)
=Aquasol ER (Water Resistant SBQ Emulsion)
=An adjustable stand (18" from the frame and 12" from the frame)

Here'es the link for this type of EMULSION i'm using:
http://www.tulco.net/products/pdf/aquasol_er.pdf

I've search alot about emulsions...and I'm a bit confused, Can someone help me about the Exposure time for this type of set-up and MY 500W HALOGEN LAMP IS COLOR YELLOW, IS IT OK? thanks in advance!


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## Mohd Azam

I use a 500 w halogen light distance between halogen and screen 12 inch, and take 6 minute. I found good result. enjoy


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